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Contents

Time Out Buenos Aires Published by Malacara Publishing SA Pasaje Soria 5012, 1a C1414BLD Buenos Aires +54 11 4831 1539 info@timeoutba.com

Published under the authority of and in collaboration with Time Out International Ltd London UK. The name and logo of Time Out are used under license from Time Out Group Ltd, 251 Tottenham Court Road, London W1T 7AB, UK +44 (0)20 7813 3000 www.timeout.com © Copyright Time Out Group Ltd 2014 Time Out Buenos Aires Team Director Mark Rebindaine Director Gonzalo Gil Editor Emily Jensen – editor@timeoutba.com Deputy Editor Rosie Hilder Food and Drink Editor Allie Lazar Editorial Assistant Gretchen Gardner Proofreader Emma Clifton Fact-checker/Intern Gill Harris Graphic designer Sofía Iturbe Distribution Mau Banach – mau@timeoutba.com Administration Mau Banach – mau@timeoutba.com Contributors Vanessa Bell, Matt Chesterton, Adam Corl, Sonja D’Cruze, Gretchen Gardner, Gill Harris, Erin Helmholz, Rosie Hilder, Emily Jensen, Allie Lazar, Sorrel Moseley-Williams, Sorcha O’Higgins, Sophie Parker, Mark Rebindaine, Daniel Tunnard. Photography Ezequiel Poccard. Contributing Photographers Guido Adler, Gonzalo Alipaz, Lucio Alvarez Lastra, Sebastián Arpesella, Pablo Baracat, Adrien de Bontin, Gustavo Cantoni, Luis Duran, Emily Anne Epstein, Shooresh Fezoni, Lucia Galli, Rosie Hilder, Emma Hodson, Shona Hughes Nectoux, Emily Jensen, Geoff Kemp, Allie Lazar, Clemmy Manzo, Paula McAllister, Pablo Armando Mouriño, Beatrice Murch, Paronetto Fotografía, Lucia Prieto, Alejandro Saez Blanco, Ed Stocker, Lucy Valerio, Kevin Vaughn, Robert Wright. Additional Images Aldo’s, Arroyo Hotel, Autoría Bs As, The Bowie, Casa Umare, Chan Chan, Crizia, Dean & Dennys, Delfina Estrada, Elena, Esplendor Plaza Francia, Fiesta Dorothy, Florería Atlántico, Foto Ruta, Four Seasons Hotel, Galería Isabel Anchorena, Home Hotel, Hub Porteño, i Latina, Isla del Descanso, Lo de Jesus, Josefina Ferroni, JT, Juan Pérez, K&S Films, Francisco Medail, Ministerio de Cultura GCBA, Mora Lasnier Joyería, Mµvin, Pan y Arte, Parrilla Tour BA, PerSe, Peuteo, Los Primitivos, Puro Remo, Queenies, Ralph’s, El Refuerzo, Reunión, Río Café, Roux, Sabater Hermanos, Tô, Nicolás Vasen, Yeite. Illustrations Emiliano Guevara, Gustavo Guevara. Cover Photo Jocelyn Mandryk Models Juan Martín Arguedas and Meli Padilla Agency Civiles www.civiles.com

Features

Out and about

10 City beat

23 Food & Drink

The word on the street in BA

12 Dates for your diary The best festivals and events

14 The summer asado guide Learn how to eat meat Argentinian style

18 Only in BA Snapshots of life in BA

20 Time Out BA triva Test yourself with our quiz on Buenos Aires trivia OVER TO YOU We’d love to read your comments on this issue, or your thoughts on places we should consider including in the next one. Drop us a line at editor@timeoutba.com

24 Cafés 29 Restaurants 70 Food and drink index

71 Nightlife

72 Bars 84 Clubs 92 Nightlife index

95 Shopping

96 Shopping 113 Health and beauty 114 Markets 114 Shopping index

115 Arts & Leisure

116 Around town 122 Museums 125 Art 129 Film and media 131 Fitness and sports 134 Gay and lesbian

Front Cover Bikini by Las Pepas Hat by Compañia de Sombreros Vest, shorts and necklace by Bowen Shirt by Justo y Necesario Location: Oasis Collections Clubhouse

138 Music 141 Performing arts 144 Tango

149 Where to Stay 150 Hotels 160 Apart-hotels 161 Hostels 162 Telos (love hotels) 162 Hotels index

163 Getting Away

164 Uruguay special 167 Day trips 168 Estancias

171 Resources

172 Useful information 173 Sticking around 174 City map 176 Transport and Subte map

©Copyright Time Out Group Ltd 2014 While every effort and care has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication, the publisher cannot accept responsibility for any errors it may contain. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, without prior permission of Time Out. ISSN 9771851562014 00019

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15 1

GUSTAVO CANTONI

City Beat

Classic art meets a modern crowd every month

Art after dark Buenos Aires’s most traditional art museum is drawing in a hip, young crowd with its new monthly event, Bellos Jueves

t’s Thursday evening and hundreds of artistically minded culture vultures are gathering on the stone steps underneath the imposing façade of the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (see p126). On the last Thursday of every month, Buenos Aires’s national art museum opens its doors from 7.30pm to host Bellos Jueves. This event transforms MNBA into a meeting point for the old and the new; the national and the international, and also acts as an intersection for a range of art forms, from photography and sculpture to music. A creative initiative less than one year old, Bellos Jueves – meaning ‘Beautiful Thursdays’ – is an attempt, on the part of the curatorial staff at the MNBA, to revitalise Buenos Aires’s austere, traditional art scene, often accused of being snooty and a bit out-of-date. Each month the cream of the crop of a new generation of artists and musicians participate. Artistically shaking things up has, in turn, attracted an audience that otherwise might not have paid much attention to an apparently musty museum – which is precisely the goal. Artists who have taken part in the event include Argentinian multimedia artist Amalia Ulmán, renowned for her diverse oeuvre involving phone apps and Skype lectures, and Mexican

sculptor Débora Delmar, whose pot-plant and lingerie installation stands incongruously alongside Manet’s ‘La Nymph Surprise’. In one room an in-depth explanation of a noteworthy painting might take place; in another, expert tour guides shepherd groups of visitors around the current exhibitions, divulging their expert knowledge. For those who are keen to start the weekend’s merry-making early, wine is served from nightfall until closing at midnight, and the terrace throbs with sounds such as the tribal-cum-techno beats of Chancha Vía Circuito and sights like the visual pyrotechnics of highly acclaimed VJ Mariela Bond. Aside from the draws of dancing on the museum’s terrace, many people come to unwind after a hard day in the office, taking refuge in the more tranquil sources of musical entertainment provided by the likes of acoustic pop-sensation Violeta Castillo. For artists like Castillo the opportunity to participate in Bellos Jueves is an exciting one, due to the event’s increasing popularity. The museum’s run-off-their-feet reception staff conclusively agree that each event has topped the previous in terms of attendance. The upward curve in popularity bodes well for the future of such an important creative platform for up-and-coming artists in the city.

10 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15

‘Besides,’ Castillo adds, ‘there is a really dynamic atmosphere that makes performing here completely different to performing in a bar. People are more willing to sit down and give you their full attention.’ Castillo’s enthusiasm perhaps also stems from the curious combination of formal and informal that characterises this showcase of contemporary art. You can’t help but be struck by the contrast between the impressive setting of such a museum, which houses some of the nation’s greatest works – big names like León Ferrari and Oscar Bony, for example – and the down-to-earth nature of the event itself, where crowds mill and chat casually among Rodin sculptures. It is an unusual vibe, and one that the event’s organisers believe will help to inspire and provoke visitors to engage with art in a new way. Here, eclectic synthesis is the name of the game. The melodious sounds of acoustic guitar meet detailed art-historical discussions, while a world-acclaimed Degas painting sits beside a bra-wearing houseplant. Bellos Jueves, which injects Buenos Aires’s celebrated and traditional art scene with a generous dose of vibrant energy, is not one to miss. For details of the next event, check the museum’s website www.mnba.gob.ar. – Gill Harris

More money, more problems T

he international media has had a field day covering the ups and downs of the Argentinian default, but what does this mean for visitors to Buenos Aires? Suffice to say that changing your dollars, euros or pounds at the best possible rate will not be as simple as exchanging money at the airport. The effects that Argentina’s economic woes have had on obtaining foreign currency could fill a book, but the short version is that since 2011, President Cristina Fernández de Kirchner’s administration has implemented a series of restrictions on access to dollars for Argentinian citizens, meaning that most buy dollars on the parallel black market. And the gap between the two exchange rates is higher than ever: as of October 2014, the official exchange rate was AR$8.42 to the dollar, while the black market rate – known as the ‘blue dollar’ – was AR$15.75. Fernández de Kirchner and her officials have attempted to curtail the black market with little success. Cuevas (caves) that exchange at the blue rate are unregulated and easy to find, but keep your eyes and ears open if using this method – if the cave feels dodgy, it probably is. Also watch out for fake bills. Those with a US bank account can receive pesos at a rate closer to that of the black market through Xoom (www.xoom.com), while Azimo (www. azimo.com) does the same for those with European bank accounts. – Gretchen Gardner

Ones to follow With 4.7 million active Twitter users in Argentina, who's really worth following? @CFKArgentina President Cristina Fernández de Kirchner uses her account to lament being ‘left out of the world’ by the ‘punches of multimillionaires’ and includes pictures of hand-written letters from Pope Francis. @HEGS_com British football journalist Sam Kelly tweets on local matches, with added witticisms about the movements of top teams. @PickUpTheFork American ‘freelance eater’ Allie Lazar tweets about her culinary adventures and posts saliva-inducing pics of her favourite dishes. @gentediciendo La Gente Anda Diciendo collects amusing phrases heard on the streets of BA. Past gems include, ‘Who is this selfie who’s so fashionable?’ 50-year-old man to a friend. @bacultural The city government gives updates on cultural activities they put on in BA. Most are free and worth checking out. @TimeOutBA Our very own Twitter feed has updates on things to do, see and eat in BA. – Rosie Hilder

MINISTERIO DE CULTURA GCBA

Dates for your diary

weekend. Join in the dancing and foam spraying at celebrations throughout Buenos Aires. Every Sat and Sun, Feb (www. carnavalargentina.com.ar). Torneo Final Track down tickets to see Boca Juniors, River Plate, or your team of choice at this local football tournament, which closes the regular Division One season. Feb-Jun. Various locations (www.afa. org.ar). Chinese New Year Bid farewell to year of the horse and welcome in the sheep with a colourful day of food and fireworks in Belgrano’s bustling Barrio Chino (Chinatown). Feb 19. Along Arribeños 2000-2200. Ultra Music Festival DJs like Nicolas Jaar and Monika Kruse spin electronic, dubstep and trance while crowds dance for hours. Feb 20-21. Costanera Sur (www. ultrabuenosaires.com).

Ciudanza takes over the Plaza Estado del Vaticano

What’s on when Time Out’s pick of the best events to see and be seen at, up to April 2015

November

Creamfields International and local DJs hit the decks for this dance music festival. Nov 8. Autódromo de Buenos Aires, Avenida Roca 6902 (www. creamfieldsba.com). Gran Premio Nacional The huge stadium fits 100,000 people, and fills up every year for this major horse racing event. Nov 8. Hipódromo Argentina de Palermo, Avenida del Libertador 4101 (www.palermo.com.ar).

Campeonato Argentino Abierto de Polo Cheer on men in white trousers at BA’s biggest polo competition; stay on afterwards for sporting gossip, people watching and champagne. Nov 15-Dec 6. Campo Argentino de Polo, Avenida del Libertador y Dorrego (www.aapolo.com). Festival Internacional de Tango Queer Same-sex dancing partners have a ball at this week-long international queer tango festival. Nov 17-23. Various locations (www. festivaltangoqueer.com.ar).

Día de la Tradición A trip to San Antonio de Areco (see 167) for this annual festival of gaucho tradition is a must for all those into horses, folklore, steak or rugged Argentinian cowboys. Nov 10. San Antonio de Areco.

Buenos Aires Jazz Catch nightly jam sessions as international and local jazz musicians take over town. Nov 19-24. Various locations (www. buenosairesjazz.gob.ar).

Marcha del Orgullo Boys and girls (and everyone in between) come out to play at BA’s annual gay pride parade. Serious partying follows in the city’s most debaucherous nightclubs. Nov 15. Plaza de Mayo (www. marchadelorgullo.org.ar).

Music Wins Festival Indie kids rejoice as big names come to Argentina, many for the first time. Headliners include Metronomy, Beirut and Tame Impala. Nov 23-24. Mandarine Park, Avenida Costanera Norte y Sarmiento (www. musicwinsfestival.com).

La Noche de los Museos Galleries, museums and cultural centres from Recoleta to La Boca open their doors for free till the small hours. Expect queues. Nov 15. Various locations (www. lanochedelosmuseos.gob.ar).

BA Extremo The first edition of this free, extreme sport festival has professional skating and BMX competitions, plus live music. Nov 24. Parque Costanera (www. turismo.buenosaires.gob.ar).

12 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15

December

Noche de Librerías Crowds throng literary artery Avenida Corrientes one night a year as bookstores and cafés stay open late, literary events are staged and prices are slashed. Dec 8. Avenida Corrientes, entre Callao y Talcahuano.

January

Carnaval del País Argentina’s answer to Brazilian carnaval takes place in Gualeguaychú in the province of Entre Ríos (3.5 hours from Retiro). Book a hotel in advance, or catch up on sleep afterwards. Every Sat, Jan 10-Mar 7. Gualeguaychú (www. carnavalargentina.com.ar). Verano en la Ciudad Over 300 free events, from rock concerts to outdoor milongas, distract from the city’s summer heat. Jan 11-Feb 16. Various locations (www.festivales. gob.ar).

Abierto de Tenis de Buenos Aires Catch a clay-court match on a sunny afternoon in Palermo at the year’s most important event for Argentinian tennis fans. Feb 21-Mar 1. Buenos Aires Lawn Tennis Club, Olleros 1510 (www. copaclaro.com). Buenos Aires Fashion Week The carpet rolls out for high-style BA as the winter collections of top local designers grace the catwalk. Late Feb. La Rural, Avenida Santa Fe 4201 (www.bafweek.com.ar).

March

Ciudanza Groups of dancers make the urban landscape their stage in parks, plazas and other public spaces across the city. Early Mar. Various locations (www. ciudanza.gob.ar). Lollapallooza After the success of its first edition in BA in 2014, this international music festival is back. Big names in rock, pop and indie get the crowd moving at San Isidro’s hippodrome. Mar 21-22. Hipódromo de San Isidro (www.lollapaloozaar.com).

April BAFICI

This independent film festival shows films from Argentina, Latin America and all over the world and Nov 24 Day of regularly packs out National Sove Dec 8 Day of re cinemas across the the Immaculat ignty e Conception city. Get tickets in Carnaval Porteño Dec 25 Christm advance from the Percussion bands Jan 1 New Year as website. (murgas) perform ’s Da y Feb Apr 15-26. Various in the streets and M 16-17 Carnaval ar locations (www. open spaces every fo 24 Day of Remembrance r Truth and Ju festivales.gob.ar). Apr 2 Veterans stice ’ Day

February

Public holid ays

14 Time Out Insidersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Guide to Buenos Aires 2014

The summer asado guide Summer is asado season in Argentina. Matt Chesterton gives the rundown on the unequivocally Argentinian tradition. Illustrations by Emiliano Guevara

n a perfect world, every asado would be a precise replica of that one matchless cookout, when the company was just right, the meat just seared and the slant of the sun’s rays through the willow branches just so. ‘Great! And when might we try my charbroiled oysters?’ pipes up a foodie. ‘Over my dead body?’ thinks a traditional Argentinian asador while mumbling something politer. You see, it’s best not to mess with Argentina’s (unofficial) national cuisine. The proportion of guests at an asado who crave creativity and innovation is roughly equivalent to the proportion of fans at a Bon Jovi concert who want to hear the new material. Besides uniformity, the average asador is guided by the principle of laissez-faire. Short of training the cow to slaughter, dismember and roast itself, he will do all he can to do as little as possible. Even adding salt before cooking is controversial. It’s a parochial method alright, but that’s what makes it precious. After all, Asian barbecue is parochial too – but the foreigner who is always pestering Argentinians to ‘liven things up’ with rubs, marinades and spices would never dream of suggesting to a roadside grill master in Bangkok that he ‘calm things down’ by subtracting the same. Asado is what it is: narrow-mindedly, unapologetically Argentinian. A BEEF HISTORY To understand the Argentinian approach to grilling meat, we have to go back to the 16th century, when the scrawny cattle imported by European settlers went forth and multiplied on the pampas. Some 40 million cows roamed this vast pastureland by the mid-18th century – easy pickings for nomadic gauchos, who prized the animals for their skins. (Europe needed leather; Argentina had hides.) Before the invention of mechanical refrigeration (Europe needed beef, too), gauchos had little incentive to harvest the cow’s flesh, preferring to leave the flayed carcasses to rot in the sun. But before moving on to their next quarry they would hack off some meat and roast it over a fire, a dining style that had barely evolved since Homo Erectus walked the earth. Perhaps it was this aspect that interested Charles Darwin, who enjoyed several of these primitive asados while travelling through the Argentinian heartland in 1833, during the celebrated second voyage of the HMS Beagle. ‘It’s a healthy life,’ he wrote to his sister. ‘I spend all day on horseback and eat nothing but meat.’ The modern asador has inherited the gaucho’s minimalist technique, but applies it to a superior product. The lean, butter-tender beef for which Argentina is celebrated comes not from the descendants of the Spanish steers that accompanied the conquistadores, but from the heirs of Tarquino, a Durham Shorthorn bull shipped

over from Britain in 1826. Hereford and Aberdeen Angus soon followed, pushing the original breeds from the rich pampas, in whose mild climate cattle could roam and graze all year round. The average asador is not notorious for his interest in food science, but he certainly knows that grass fed meat is leaner, healthier and, if nothing else, more Argentinian than its grain fed counterpart. Methodologically, too, asado has evolved – but not much. Broadly speaking, there are three ways to roast a carcass. The first, known as al asador, is to string it up on an iron or wood crucifix staked in the ground at an oblique angle to a pit of glowing embers. It’s the most gaucho-esque method, still used for special occasions and in certain restaurants, but it’s not for beginners. Diametrically opposed to this is the second technique, which is to balance any old grill over any old fire in any old place. This is favoured by campers, builders on lunch break and anyone who doesn’t have access to the third, most emblematic, method – the use of a brick barbecue with a height-adjustable, sloping grill. For your first asado, seek out one of these. It shouldn’t take too long. GRILL IT YOURSELF Before we get to asado 101, a word on gender. In Argentina, men man the grill. A woman can be deployed to a combat zone, but on no account can she be trusted to stick a prong in a sausage. The male ego is making its last stand. At the end of the garden. Caked in sweat and soot. With that out of the way, let’s proceed to Time Out’s Top Ten Asado Tips: For fuel, use carbón (not the cheap stuff, it doesn’t burn) or quebracho wood. The former is available everywhere, the latter in larger supermarkets and specialist stores. Light the fire approximately an hour before you plan to cook, using newspaper or cardboard. If you use alcohol or some other pyrotechnic shortcut, pretend that you didn’t. The asado is ready when it’s ready, and must never be hurried. Hungry guests can be placated with a picada of meats and cheeses or... ... a choripán. All traditional asados begin with this classic assemblage of spicy chorizo (often sliced lengthwise and grilled on the inside before serving, a style known

as mariposa, or butterfly), bread and chimichurri or salsa criolla. Get your chorizos on the grill as soon as possible. You can’t have too much bread. It should be cheap, white and bland: the kind that sends you to an early grave. Just go into any neighbourhood panadería and ask for a big bag of pan blanco. As a rule of thumb, calculate half a kilo of meat per person. For a home-cooked asado, the classic cuts are the ones that beg to be cooked low and slow, such as tira de asado, vacío and entraña; flash grilling a prime steak is a restaurant manoeuvre. Offal such as chinchulines and mollejas are particularly prized, but don’t try to cook them unless you know how to prepare them. Rather than a large supermarket, your local carnicería is the best place to do your asado shopping. Unless they say otherwise, assume all Argentinian guests want their meat cooked through, with the juices running clear not bloody. Use coarse salt. Some asadores add it before cooking, some during, some after. Choose one method, stick with it and pretend it’s important to you. Don’t use anything else. Even black pepper is considered wacky. The only compulsory side dish is a green salad, with lettuce, tomato and onion the most popular combo. Forget about fancy ranch dressings; a simple vinaigrette and plenty of salt are all you need. You can win friends with a basic potato salad (hold the paprika) or a grilled provoleta cheese (crisp on the outside, gooey within). Wine is red. On a hot day, guests will drop ice cubes in it. Hence, wine is also cheap. Look for something in the AR$40-$50 range from an unfashionable bodega like Norton or López. Many Argentinians prefer fizzy drinks to booze, so roll out the Sprite. Almost as Argentinian as a slab of grilled beef is the combination of Fernet Branca and Coca-Cola, a necessity at any social gathering. If you run out of glasses, you can use the bottom half of a sawed-off Coke bottle and no one will think twice about swigging from it. No one needs pudding after all that, but it must be available nonetheless. A fruit salad if you have the energy, a tub of ice-cream from the neighbourhood heladería if you don’t. A kilo of dulce de leche, frutilla (strawberry) and crema americana (sweet cream) flavours is a classic combo and will suit almost any Argentinian. All asados involve un aplauso para el asador, or a round of applause for the grill master. If you’re wondering why the man gets most of the credit while his wife, girlfriend or mother, who has probably done most of the work, gets none, we refer you to our previous thoughts on tradition and the male ego.

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15 15

FOTO RUTA

Find prime cuts of beef at the Mercado del Progreso in Caballito

BEYOND BEEF Having insulted foodies, satirised men and ignored vegetarians, we’d like to backtrack a bit. While there’s no getting around the fact that asado per se is a gory flesh fest, an orgy of organ meat, the expert asador need not restrict himself to asado. With a smoking hot grill and some open-minded guests, she (let’s use the rulebook for kindling) can char what the hell she wants. Why not grill cobs of corn slowly until their leaves shrivel and blacken, then serve them with a knob of butter and a grind of black pepper? Or thread chunks of onion, pepper and aubergine onto a skewer, grill until tender and then stuff into a pita with a dollop of tangy cucumber raita to finish. Vegetarians need protein too, of course. You can solve that problem and impress your guests with your presentation skills by throwing a halved bell pepper on the grill and cracking an egg in the middle; garnish the resulting fried egg and charred bell pepper with olive oil and herbs. Alternatively, throw some money at the problem. At organic and natural food fairs such as Sabe la Tierra (www.sabelatierra.com), El Galpón (www.elgalpon.org.ar) and Buenos Aires Market (www.buenosairesmarket.com), you’ll find small producers selling meat-free chorizos and even morcilla. Usually made from seitan (wheat gluten) seasoned with pungent herbs and spices, these are delicious and need only the briefest of grillings. If you find yourself thinking that the substitutes are tastier than the real thing, you’re not the first. BRING IN THE PROS Nothing compares to a real asado, with friends or family, in the back garden or out in the country, with the heat of the fire on your face and a whiff of savoury smoke in your nostrils. Next best thing? An unrushed summer lunch or supper at a parrilla with outdoor seating. One traditional, inflation-defying option is to take a

stroll along the Costanera Sur, flanked on one side by the river and on the other by numerous food carts, or carritos, where you can get top-notch choripanes and bondiola sandwiches. Time Out recommends the bondiola completa sandwich from Parrilla Mi Sueño – that’s the yellow cart with the big queue in front. Only slightly more expensive is Lo de Charly (Avenida Alvarez Thomas 2101, 4553 0882, parrillalodecharly.com.ar), a classic neighbourhood joint whose rickety pavement tables fill up at all hours with local families and footballers on a post-match protein frenzy. Raising both the tone and the budget, La Cabrera (see p47) is a world-class steakhouse with proper pavement seating. The famed grill has three locations for a reason however, and if the double set of huge queues puts you off, try Palermo rival Don Julio (see p48) – also insanely popular, but on a prettier street corner. Munich Recoleta (Ortiz 1871, 4804 3981) has a conservative vibe to match its unchanging menu, but the lomo comes exactly as ordered and the tuxedoed waiters are a joy. The terrace faces the Recoleta Cemetery (see p120), allowing diners to contemplate their own mortality over steak and fries – and perhaps skip dessert. If you’re the type that wants to visit multiple parrillas in one go while also strolling the streets of Buenos Aires, contact the folks at Parrilla Tour BA (mobile 15 5808 9687, www.parrillatour.com). The expert tour guides will show you around three traditional parrillas in either San Telmo or Palermo, followed by a stop at an heladería. Lest you think the experience is purely an exercise in gluttony, remember that it is at least a walking tour. Still hungry? For more parilla recommendations, see the Restaurant listings on page 30. Better yet, let a trail of smoke and crowd of happy locals guide you to the best parilla in your neighbourhood. Buen provecho!

16 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15

A griller’s glossary asado asador bife de chorizo bondiola carbón carnicería chimichurri chinchulines choripán cocido entraña heladería jugoso lomo mollejas morcilla ojo de bife panadería parrilla picada provoleta salsa criolla tira de asado vacío

barbecue grill master sirloin steak pork shoulder charcoal butcher spicy sauce of herbs, garlic, oil and chilli flakes small intestines chorizo sandwich well-done skirt steak ice-cream parlour rare tenderloin sweetbreads blood sausage ribeye bakery grill; steakhouse selection of cheeses and cold cuts grilled provolone cheese a condiment of diced tomato, bell pepper and vinegar short ribs flank steak

18 Time Out Insidersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15

trivia G

According to the 2010 census, what is the population of the city of Buenos Aires? A) 6.21 million B) 2.89 million C) 3.48 million

In 1915 tango singer Carlos Gardel was shot outside the Palais de Glace (see p126). He lived with the bullet lodged inside him until he died in a plane crash in 1935. Where was the bullet? A) in his left lung B) in his right kidney C) in the back of his head

H AL

In what year did women win the right to vote in Argentina? A) 1922 B) 1891 C) 1949

SN SL

Which of the following animals is NOT native to Argentina? A) the possum B) the jaguar C) the crocodile

Which Argentinian cartoonist created the popular character Mafalda? A) Dante Quinterno B) Joaquín Salvador Lavado (Quino) C) Maitena Burundarena (Maitena)

True or false: The first official polo match in Argentina took place in 1875.

How many streets in Buenos Aires are named after military figures? A) 338 B) 430 C) 105

Which of the following celebrities was born in Argentina? A) Singer Chris de Burgh B) Actor Viggo Mortensen C) Singer Michael Bublé

True or false: Ernesto ‘Che’ Guevara was born in Buenos Aires.

How many Argentinian films have won an Oscar? A) 2 B) 3 C) 0

In May 2014, the remains of what is thought to be the biggest dinosaur ever found were discovered in which Argentinian province? A) Mendoza B) Santa Cruz C) Chubut

What do Boca fans call River fans? A) gallinas (hens) B) pollos (chickens)

20 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15

C) pavos (turkeys)

Which of the following is NOT a subdivision of Palermo? A) Hollywood B) Soho C) Shoreditch

What is the name of the Argentinian equivalent of Strictly Come Dancing? A) Bailando con las estrellas (Dancing with the Stars) B) Bailando por un sueño (Dancing for a Dream) C) Bailando hasta el cielo (Dancing to the Sky)

Which two famous Argentinians appear on the country’s 100 peso note? A) Domingo Faustino Sarmiento and Eva Perón B) Julio Argentino Roca and Eva Perón C) Juan Domingo Perón and Eva Perón

AL SN

Which Argentinian author wrote reviews of nonexistent authors’ work? A) Jorge Luis Borges B) Ernesto Sabato C) Adolfo Bioy Casares

What do River fans call Boca fans? A) pobres (poor guys) B) bosteros (cow pats) C) descamisados (shirtless guys)

Where does the President of Argentina live? A) in the Casa Rosada (see p118) B) in Puerto Madero (see p122) C) in the northern neighbourhood of Olivos

When Roger Waters came to Buenos Aires in 2012, how many sold out gigs at Estadio Monumental (see p132) did he play? A) 3 B) 9 C) 7

According to urban legend, what liquid did Argentinian citizens pour from the rooftops to defeat the British when they invaded in 1807? A) urine B) boiling water C) cooking oil

What percentage of Argentinians have undergone psychotherapy at some point in their lives? A) 41% B) 50% C) 32%

When making the Argentinian drink maté, what temperature should you heat the water to? A) 100°C B) 80°C C) 90°C

What does the phrase ‘ir a los bifes’ mean? A) to beef up B) to eat an entire cow C) to get to the point

Answers Top left G : B - E : A - H : C - AL : B - SN : A - SL : T Top right G : C - E : B - H : B - AL : A - SN : F - SL : B Bottom right - G : C - E : C - H : C - AL : C - SN : B - SL : C Bottom left - G : A - E : A - H : F - AL : A - SN : C - SL : A

True or false: The last time it snowed in Buenos Aires was in 2010.

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15 21

Food & Drink

Photograph: La Alacena by Paronetto Fotografía

Cafés

Restaurants

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Cafés

Spoons at the ready

Melting Moments Consuming ice-cream by the kilo is a perfectly normal affair in Buenos Aires. Sonja D’Cruze gets the scoop on the city’s best helado

ith plenty of happy cows grazing on pampas grass and a nation with a collective sweet tooth, it’s no wonder Argentina’s helado is arguably the best in the world. Day or night, rain or shine, the city’s heladerías are packed full of families, couples and gaggles of teenagers. And the Argentinians know how to serve the stuff. Do like the locals and order ice-cream by the kilo or, for a truly gluttonous moment, get a frozen fix delivered straight to your front door. BA’s infatuation with ice-cream began in the 1870s, when the first influx of Italian immigrants gifted the city with their culture of rich flavoursome gelato. Over the years, Argentina’s helado has evolved into its own special category: softer than ice-cream, but not as rich as gelato, it is also mostly home-made on site. Artisanal helado is so popular it even has its own federal regulating body. La Asociación Fabricantes Artesanales de Helados y Afines reserves its seal of approval for parlours that use unprocessed, raw ingredients and zero artificial flavours, colours and conservatives. While chains like Freddo (www. freddo.com.ar), Un’ Altra Volta (www. unaltravolta.com.ar) and Persicco (www.persicco.com) are ubiquitous across the city, there are also thousands of other neighbourhood

joints with loyal regulars. The Cocitore family kicked things off in 1902 with the country’s first ice-cream parlour El Vesuvio (Avenida Corrientes 1181, 4382 3735). Now an official site of cultural interest, El Vesuvio still sits in its original spot one block from the Obelisco. Star-studded past customers include Jorge Luis Borges, Carlos Gardel and Astor Piazolla, who even sang about the place in his tango La última grela. Once inside this time capsule, it’d be rude not to try the classics. Go for Italian hand-me-down flavours such as sambayón, an alcohol and sugar doublewhammy made with egg yolks and Marsala wine. ‘Il gelato fresco di giornata,’ or fresh ice-cream daily, has been the motto of Belgrano’s Furchi (Avenida Cabildo 1508, 4783 1689) since it opened in 1959. Husband and wife duo Mercurio Furchi and Aurelia Vega have been scooping up ever since and make everything on the premises in 4kg batches. Far from sticking to conventional flavours, experimentation is the name of this heladería’s game. Daredevils can try combinations like roquefort and chocolate; pineapple and parsley or

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orange and basil as well as house speciality pan dulce, an ice-cream version of the Italian seasonal dessert, panettone. Created after the parlour’s most passionate fan, writer Marco Denevi, suggested adding the holiday-themed flavour, pan dulce is thankfully not just for Christmas time, but available all year round. Another classic family-run business, downtown Heladería Olímpica (Avenida de Mayo 752, 4342 0935) is not a reference to Olympic ice-cream making. Although if whipping up treats with dulce de leche (DDL) was an Olympic sport, this place would definitely win gold. ‘My grandfather participated in the Olympics in 1938. When he opened the store in 1962, he decided to use the name’, explains the founder’s grandson, Alejandro Cots. Favourites in the DDL category are the classic DDL flavoured ice-cream, plus a super super DDL variant, with swirls of the golden sauce itself, and the DDL granizado, which has the welcome addition of chocolate chips. The delightful Jauja (Cerviño 390, 4801 8126, www. heladosjauja.com.ar), whose name

Going to eat icecream is a ceremony in itself

means ‘wellbeing’, began in El Bolsón, Patagonia and there are now two shops in the capital, several down south and one in Melbourne, Australia. But owners Pepe and Lucy Mazzini didn’t exactly plan to conquer the planet via helado. During the 1980s, the two were running a restaurant to support an arts centre when their ice-cream supplier bailed on them. A frustrated Pepe bought his own machine, and the rest, as they say, is history. Nowadays, the couple’s children keep the Andean connection alive with flavours like the Mousse del Piltre – a caramelised almond and DDL concoction – named after Patagonian mountain Piltriquitrón – and other delights like lamb’s milk and blueberry, and elderflower and lemon. ‘Our ice-cream changes colour daily; strawberries aren’t uniform. We source them fresh, so sometimes it’s paler, redder or pinker’, explains Juan Mansilla, the chain’s commercial manager. Newer kids on the block are Las Cañitas café Colette (Jorge Newbery 1967, 4774 2418, www.colette. com.ar), which pairs chocolate with ingredients like chillis or balsamic vinegar, and cute as pie Occo (Dorrego 1581, 4777 9302) in Chacarita, which makes a mean lemon cheesecake helado and is a lovely spot for sitting outside on a summer’s day. Over in San Telmo, family-run Nonna Bianco (Estados Unidos 425, 4362 0604) keeps it rustic whilst offering Wi-Fi and coffee and a brief respite after a day’s shopping at San Telmo’s feria (see p114). Flavours include a vast selection of fruity delights, many of which contain chunks of real fruit, and more bizarre flavours like beer and maté. What is it about Argentinian ice-cream that keeps the heladerías so busy? ‘Argentinians are sociable people. That’s why we drink so much maté and coffee, and why we love going out to eat artisanal ice-cream together. We like arguing about which flavour should go on top (of the cone), which goes on the bottom, and of course, which is tastier. Going to eat ice-cream is a ceremony in itself’, says Mansilla. We’ll raise a cone to that.

Argentinian flavour guide Sambayón A hefty flavour with a base of egg yolk and sweet wine. Crema americana Sweet cream, aka Argentina’s answer to vanilla. Chocotorta Dulce de leche and cream cheese ice-cream laced with chocolate biscuits. Tramontana Crema americana with dulce de leche and crunchy chocolate-covered biscuits.

The basics

HOW TO USE THE LISTINGS This section presents our selection of the city’s best cafés. !denotes a place we particularly recommend. NEW is for a café that has opened in the last six months or so. Dsignals free Wi-Fi for customers.

The Centre Café Tortoni Argentina’s oldest café is everything you’d expect it to be: grand and charmingly ceremonial. Since opening in 1858, this glorious place has played host to the depths of BA’s bohemia, the heights of its literati and the full political spectrum. Today, it’s teeming with camera-wielding tourists, but Tortoni is still a must. Beyond the wooden tables and marble floor, a salon hosts tango shows every evening at 8.30pm (AR$200). Avenida de Mayo 829, entre Piedras y Tacuarí (4342 4328/www.cafetortoni. com.ar). Subte A, Piedras/bus 17, 64, 86. Open 8am-1am daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C4. D El Gato Negro Done up like an elegant general store, this historic art deco café opened its doors in 1928, as a purveyor of exotic herbs and spices. It still peddles the city’s best selection, and the additional array of imported coffees, specialist teas and jars of condiments indicate the quality of its menu. Waistcoatwearing waiters hover behind the long wooden counter and weave between the small round tables serving hot chocolate and orange tea, cinnamonspiked coffee and wickedly good pastries and alfajores. Avenida Corrientes 1669, entre Montevideo y Rodriguez Peña (4374 1730/www.elgatonegronet.com.ar). Subte B, Callao/bus 24, 29, 39, 105.

Cafés

With Buenos Aires’s coffee quality firmly on the upswing, new cafés are turning their focus to food. Thanks to cafés like Birkin Coffee Bar (see p26) and Full City Coffee House (see p26), and takeaway spots like Coffee Town (Bolívar 976) and Barrio Cafetero (Florida 833), you’re (almost) always in reach of a stellar cup of joe. Newcomers like Mercadito Latino (see p26), La Alacena (see p26) and Yeite (see p26), meanwhile, are proving that Buenos Aires’s café gastronomy has a lot more to offer than tostadas and medialunas. Opting for fresh, seasonal ingredients and creative dishes, these new spots might just be giving restaurant kitchens a run for their money. Those who want the traditonal Argentinian café experience still have plenty of options. In contrast to their slick Palermo counterparts, old school digs like Las Violetas (see p28) and Café Tortoni (see p25) haven’t updated their menu in years – and why should they? There’s always demand for a café con leche y medialuna.

Open 9am-10pm Mon; 9am-11pm Tue, Wed; 9am-midnight Thu; 9am-2am Fri, Sat; 3pm-midnight Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D4. D Grand Café Adding a splash of colour and panache to the Plaza San Martín area, this New York-style café, opened by owners of Gran Bar Danzón (see p44), is primarily aimed at office workers. A pot of French press coffee and a dulce de leche éclair is just one of the many merienda options, while on the savoury side, the chalkboard menu promises falafel veggie burgers, roast beef and pastrami sandwiches, and fresh salads. Basavilbaso 1340, entre Juncal y Avenida del Libertador (4893 9333/ www.grandcafe.com.ar). Subte C, Retiro/bus 10, 17, 28, 92, 93, 100, 101. Open 8am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-4pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D6. D

San Telmo Bar Británico Bar Británico has sat quietly on an iconic San Telmo corner since time immemorial – that is, for pedants, since 1928. Named after the British railway workers who frequented the bar in its early days, it briefly changed its name to El Tánico during the Malvinas/Falklands war. Days blur into nights at this BA café-bar, where you can nurse a coffee or beer for as long as you like, while you and the taxi drivers watch the world go by through huge picture windows. A change of ownership and a refurbishment had the whole barrio up in arms a few years back, and though it’s not exactly as it once was – the old-school, Spanish Civil War waiter-owners are gone, and the toilets are now fit for use – this place still, without exaggeration, encapsulates the very essence of BA café culture. Brasil 399, y Defensa (4361 2107). Bus 29, 61, 62, 152. Open 24hrs daily. No credit cards. Map A4. Bar Plaza Dorrego With outdoor seating in atmospheric Plaza Dorrego, this century-old watering hole perfectly embodies the tanguero spirit of San Telmo. Inside, a pale lemon hue is cast over the dusty bottles and etched walls, while tango crackles out over black-and-white images of the one and only Carlos Gardel. It’s an ideal spot to drain a frosty chopp (a small glass of draught beer) while dismembering handfuls of complimentary monkey nuts. Defensa 1098, y Humberto 1° (4361 0141). Bus 9, 10, 20, 126, 195. Open 8am-1am Mon-Fri; 8am-3am Sat, Sun. No credit cards. Map B4. !El Federal Celebrating its 150th year in business, El Federal is one of BA’s most historic bars., with magnificent cash registers, faded lamps and a collection of old advertising posters. There’s a standard set of coffees, beers and spirits and a long list of snacks and sandwiches – the lomo completo beef sandwich comes with all, and we mean all, the trimmings. If you’re lucky, Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15 25

Cafés

Bartola Every weekend Bartola’s inviting pink and blue patio chairs are filled to the brim with chatty locals and foreigners. The colourful exterior may be responsible for attracting the crowds, but the friendly staff, jugs of the best lemonade in town and all-round buena onda keep them coming back time and time again. Highlights include juicy hamburgers with caramelised onions or pillow-soft ciabatta sandwiches stuffed with grilled chicken, rocket, guacamole and cream cheese. Lighter appetites will be satisfied by a dazzling array of fresh salads. If this spot is full, try the other member of the Bartola family across the street (though these days both are likely to have a queue out the door). Gurruchaga 1795, y Costa Rica (4833 6522). Bus 39, 41, 67, 93, 152. Open 9am-midnight daily. Credit MC, V. Map H3. D Other location Gurruchaga 1806, Palermo (4831 3079).

New in town Yeite

Bringing a breath of fresh air to a slightly downtrodden area of Villa Crespo, stylish café Yeite is the creation of pastry specialist Pamela Villar and has a star-studded list of collaborators – designer Jessica Trosman, whose shop JT (see p104) is next door, and top chef Fernando Trocca of Sucre (see p66) to name but two. Yeite’s menu changes fortnightly and focuses on fresh, seasonal ingredients combined in unusual and exciting ways. Whatever you choose from the pick-and-mix menu, be sure to save some space for Villar’s stunning desserts. Past creations include an exquisitely tangy orange tart and melt-in-your-mouth pistachio, lemon and mascarpone profiteroles. Humboldt 293, y Murillo (4855 6777/www.facebook.com/yeite). Subte B, Dorrego/bus 19, 45, 93, 111, 127. Open 8.30am-7pm Mon-Sat. No credit cards. Map H1. D

you’ll be treated to an ad hoc performance of tango standards; if you’re really lucky, it’ll be by Ana, one of the finest singers in San Telmo, who sings bar to bar, hat in hand. Carlos Calvo 599, y Perú (4300 4313). Bus 9, 10, 17, 24, 29, 86, 93, 126. Open 10am-midnight Mon-Sat. No credit cards. Map B4. D NEW Mercadito Latino This bright café is in a prime people watching spot right opposite San Telmo’s market. Here you’ll find flavoursome food and drink influenced by all things Latin. Start the day with a feast in the form of the huevos rancheros: a crunchy tortilla topped with two fried eggs, chips, a fresh avocado salad and butter beans mixed with chorizo and bacon. Stop in later for the daily lunch special, a snip at AR$70, or a taste of the tropics in the form of fresh fruit juices and arepas. With all that and more on the menu, Time Out is thankful this spot is open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and drinks. Carlos Calvo 488, y Bolívar (2004 1056). Subte C, Independencia/bus 24, 29, 93, 126, 152. Open 10ammidnight Tue-Sun. No credit cards. Map B4. D

Recoleta La Biela A stone’s throw from Recoleta Cemetery, the terrace of this historic, Parisianstyle café is a good bet for peoplewatching. It’s named after the connecting rod in car engines, testimony to the fact that famous motor racing drivers hung out here in the 1950s, as

are the framed pictures of race cars still hanging on the walls. Nowadays, the massive rubber tree outside shelters a terrace packed to the brim with tourists and Recoleta’s most monied residents. Avenida Quintana 596, y Ortiz (4804 0449/www.labiela.com). Bus 10, 17, 59, 60, 101, 108, 110, 124. Open 7am-2am Mon-Sat; 8am-2am Sun. Credit AmEx, V. Map E5. D Florencio Among the exclusive buildings on an almost hidden Recoleta street is a tiny patisserie with superlative pastries and cakes. Foodies will travel for miles to sink their teeth into a berry-topped cheesecake or caramelised pear tart made by occasional TV celebrity chef María Laura D’Aloisio. If you favour something savoury, try a sandwich in home-made ciabatta or reserve a spot for dinner on Wednesday and Friday evenings. Adventurous bakers can try recreating Florencio’s divine desserts at home, as D’Aloisio also shares recipes on her Facebook page. Francisco de Vittoria 2363, entre Guido y Agote (4807 6477). Bus 10, 17, 37, 41, 60, 102, 110. Open 9am-8pm Mon, Tue, Thu, Sat; 9am-midnight Wed, Fri. No credit cards. Map E5. Pani There are no half measures taken at Pani – everything is done to the maximum. Plush, custom-made seating, velvet drapes, golden lamps, a pastry display case filled with brownies, alfajores and cheesecakes exploding with dulce de leche and chocolate; even the bathrooms are

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outfitted to the max with custom graffiti art. The menu is appropriately extravagant, covering every meal of the day and creating a new one: ‘teanner’, multiple courses of sweet and savoury – think croque monsieurs, salmon bagels, scones and cakes – made for two. Equally worth visiting is the original Pani in Palermo, which has received a full makeover. Vicente López 2056, entre Uriburu y Junín (4804 3210/www.pani.com.ar). Bus 17, 60, 93, 110. Open 9am-11pm Sun-Thu; 9am-1am Fri, Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5. D Other location Nicaragua 6044, Palermo (4772 6420).

Palermo NEW La Alacena A little off the main tourist route of Palermo, La Alacena manages to be sweet without being too twee. On the menu, you’ll find an array of light lunches with twists on the traditional. Highlights include the courgette, broccoli, goat’s cheese and almondtoasted sandwich, and Saturday’s brunch option of organic poached egg, Sicilian sausages, mushrooms and cream. Finish off a meal with a dark chocolate and sea salt mousse straight out of the oven, and you may want to consider taking a piece of La Alacena home in the form of the tasteful ceramic crockery or home-made jams. Gascón 1401, y Honduras (4867 2549). Bus 36, 39, 106, 110, 111, 140, 151, 168. Open 9am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-7pm Sat. No credit cards. Map F3. D

!Birkin Coffee Bar BA café culture is something of a paradox: there are charming cafés on every street corner, two meals a day are dedicated to coffee and sweet treats (breakfast and merienda to the uninitiated) and yet, the coffee is terrible. Birkin Coffee Bar is an exception, with the richest, strongest cappuccino in town. Oh, and there are also fresh pastries, old school marble countertops, zigzag tiled floors, cushy banquet seats, decadent brunch options and a rack of fashion glossies to flip through while you merendar. There’s a small selection of wine and aperitifs for the happy hour crowd, an all-round cool vibe and good food, but it’s all about the coffee here. República Árabe Siria 3061, y Cabello (4843 7470). Bus 10, 57, 60, 93, 160, 188. Open 9am-9pm Tue-Fri; 10am-9pm Sat, Sun. No credit cards. Map G4. D !Full City Coffee House Buenos Aires isn’t exactly known for its quality service or coffee. Full City Coffee House filled that void and became the caffeine addict’s favourite locale when it opened in Chacarita, and fans anxiously awaited its re-opening in Palermo Soho. The English-Colombian owners are bona fide coffee connoisseurs, importing full-bodied arabica beans from Colombia and roasting them in BA. Coffee is the star here, but fresh juices made from exotic Colombian fruits, arepas, paninis and salads are equally delicious. For curious learners, Full City also offers classes on the art of crafting coffee and espresso. Thames 1535, y Pasaje Soria (4833 6774/ www.fullcitycoffeeco.com). Bus 34, 39, 151, 168. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10.30am-8pm Sat; 11am-6pm Sun. Credit MC, V. Map G2. D In Bocca al Luppo The name, the coffee, the menu and the radio are all Italian at this unpretentious café. Inside, it’s all psychedelic sofas, quaint teacupshaped lights, cream walls and that

Lattente Argentina’s champion barista, Daniel Cifuentes, whips up the city’s best coffee from this bright little café. Brewing a smooth-as-Fonzie Colombian roast, Lattente is one of the few places in the city where you can get a top-class (and take-away) cappuccino, macchiato, mocha, flat white and Americano. Along with arty doodles on top of your cuppa Joe, Cifuentes has been known to do spiked versions with Baileys, Malibu and sambuca. Thames 1891, entre Nicaragua y Costa Rica (4833 1676/www.latte-n-te. com). Bus 34, 39, 55. Open 9am-8pm Mon-Sat; 10am-8pm Sun. No credit cards. Map G3.

El Salvador 4701, y Armenia (4832 6244/www.markspalermo.com.ar). Bus 15, 39, 55. Open 8.30am-9.30pm Mon-Sat; 10am-9.30pm Sun. No credit cards. Map G3. D

Cafés

comforting hum of an espresso machine at work. But it’s the interior patio that really makes this little spot special, with its exposed brick walls and sunshine – a perfect oasis in the middle of Palermo Hollywood. The lasagne and panini make for a delightfully filling lunch, while the custard-filled cornetti (Italian croissants) accompanied by Illy coffee are the perfect morning pick-me-up. Bonpland 1965, entre Costa Rica y Nicaragua (4774 3692). Bus 39, 93, 108, 111. Open 9am-11pm Mon-Fri; 9.30am-9pm Sat, Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. D

Ninina Bakery This stunning Palermo bakery uses minimalist, New York-style decor to create a delightful spot for sipping on excellent coffee or unusual juices in healthy combos like carrot, orange and ginger. Building off of the popularity of main dishes like the to-die-for vegetarian burger, which comes with about 50 different topping options, Ninina Bakery is now open for dinner. Gorriti 4738, entre Malabia y Armenia (4832 0070/www.ninina.com). Bus 15, 39, 55, 57, 140, 151, 168. Open 8am-midnight Mon-Thu; 8am-1am Fri; 9am-1am Sat; 9am-midnight Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D

Oui Oui This gorgeous French-style café is one of the nicest places Time Out knows for breakfast, lunch, tea or any of the other possible daytime repasts. The main draw is undoubtedly brunch, which thanks to its generous portions and a well-priced menu, sees queues out the door and plates of eggs Benedict, French toast and waffles flying out to every table. Croissants, baguettes, salads and pain au chocolat are all listed on the blackboards that Magendie preside over the jolly, pastelWith a country farmhouse feel, painted interior; and despite Magendie is a sweet spot for the cake stands and a relaxing lunch. Pretty floral prints, there’s crockery adorns the nothing overly twee Go double walls and a blackboard The default size for coffee about this place. describes Magendie’s Nicaragua 6068, entre is small. Ask for a café health food philosophy, Arévalo y Dorrego doble to get an extra which aims to offer caffiene boost in a larger (4778 9614/www. nutitrionally balanced ouioui.com.ar). Subte cup, or a jarrito for an meals. The sandwiches D, Ministro Carranza/ elongated cup. are hearty, wholesome bus 39, 41, 57. Open 8amaffairs, and come on freshly 8pm Tue-Fri; 10am-8pm Sat, home-made bread with a side of Sun. No credit cards. Map H3. D chunky papas rústicas. Save some Other location Nicaragua 6099, room for the tangy orange flan with Palermo (4776 4442). dulce de leche and consider browsing the almacén for health food items, a Pain et Vin bottle of vino or home products like Stocking boutique Argentinian cute aprons and recipe books. vintages from wineries such as Altos Honduras 5900, y Ravignani (4772 Las Hormigas, Bodega del Desierto 0022). Bus 39, 57, 111, 140. Open 9am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-8pm Sat, Sun. and Domaine Bousquet, Pain et Vin Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2. D offers up the perfect drinking scenario: relax with a bottle around the communal table while tucking into a Mark’s Deli & Coffee House still-warm loaf baked from scratch. This long-time Palermo favourite The varieties of bread – choose from occupies one of the best corners in the neighbourhood – and shows no sign of farmhouse, olive, nut and rye – are all baked in a wood-burning oven that the giving it up anytime soon. Whether husband-and-wife team built. Drop by you come for the rich slices of cake, ice-cold lemonade, or the perfect corner for a lunchtime BLT sandwich on rustic country bread or pop in for an view of Palermo’s hustle and bustle, ‘it’s uncorking time’ splash of the Mark’s is the perfect place to loiter sacred grape with some bread and away an afternoon. For a heartier cheese on the patio. lunch, sink your teeth into a large Gorriti 5132, y Thames (4832 5654). smoked salmon sandwich, or munch Bus 39, 108, 140. Open 9am-9pm on giant chocolate-chip cookies and Tue-Sat; 10am-7pm Sun. Credit moist budines while watching the AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D massed ranks of MacBook-owning foreigners and fashion identicats – mostly young, female and leaning Le Pain Quotidien towards the uppermost end of the The rustic chic decor and communal beauty spectrum. table concept of Le Pain Quotidien

TOP TIP!

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15 27

Cafés

EZEQUIEL POCCARD

Avenida Rivadavia 3899, y Medrano, Almagro (4958 7387/www.lasvioletas. com). Subte A, Castro Barros/bus 5, 86, 128, 132. Open 6am-1am daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E1. D

Belgrano Nolita While esconsed at a corner table enjoying a cup of Illy coffee and a freshly baked blueberry muffin, imagine yourself teleported from the quiet streets north of Buenos Aires’s Barrio Chino, to happening NYC district North of Little Italy – this cosy café’s namesake. With deli-style sandwiches and a trendy redbrick and recycled thrift-wood interior, all elements of Nolita are true to its New York theme. Franklin D Roosevelt 1806, y 11 de Septiembre (4786 8690/www. nolitabakery.com). Bus 15, 29, 42, 107, 114, 130. Open noon-8pm daily. No credit cards. D

Voltaire

may be nothing new to the international traveller, but the Belgian chain is a welcome addition to Palermo’s merienda scene. Your bread basket will still come with dulce de leche, but you’ll find salmon tartines and flaky croissants in favour of tostadas and medialunas. You can choose an individual table over communal, but the weary single traveller may appreciate the company of fellow diners. In any case, be sure to grab a fresh baguette or pistachio-pear madeleine on the way out. Armenia 1641, entre Honduras y El Salvador (4831 5709/www. lepainquotidien.com.ar). Bus 36, 39, 140. Open 9am-9pm daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. D Other locations Jeronimo Salguero 3075, Palermo (2073 1866); Sucre 2151, Belgrano (4788 4738); Posadas 1402, Recoleta (4811 6391).

a cute café on every corner of this barrio, but fortunately Voltaire’s food and drink is as charming as the location. For, as Voltaire himself once wrote, ‘Nothing would be more tiresome than eating and drinking if God had not made them a pleasure as well as a necessity.’ Carranza 1946, y Voltaire (4777 4132). Bus 39, 93, 108, 111. Open 9am-6pm Tue; 9am-7pm Wed-Sun. No credit cards. Map H3. D

Almagro and Villa Crespo

Tatan This dinky little café in Palermo Hollywood has dared to branch off from the ubiquitous café con leche and medialunas spread by specialising in something sweeter: chocolate, in all different forms. The speciality of the house is the decadent, creamy hot chocolate – you can choose from white, bitter or milk chocolate, and add flavours such as ginger, vanilla, mint and mixed spices. The comfy, colourful armchairs and friendly staff will make it even easier to wile away an afternoon here. Nicaragua 5606, y Fitz Roy (4778 3594). Bus 39, 93. Open 9.30am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit V. Map H3. D

Café Crespin On any given day, this sign of the trendification (or Palermification) of Villa Crespo is packed with a tribe of twenty- to thirtysomethings clicking away on MacBooks and young parents out for a leisurely brunch with the baby. Maybe they come for the diner decor and the free Wi-Fi, but Time Out’s betting the menu has something to do with it. The intriguing mash-up of greasy-spoon hangover food is mixed with a healthy selection of breakfasts, salads and sandwiches. Crespin’s crowning accomplishment is the American bakery, complete with New York-style cheesecake, Key lime pie, cinnamon rolls, cupcakes and brownies, sure to put any pangs of homesickness to rest. Vera 699, y Acevedo, Villa Crespo (4855 3771/www.cafecrespin.com.ar). Bus 55, 60. Open 8am-8pm Tue-Fri; 9am-8pm Sat; noon-7pm Sun. Credit MC, V. Map G3. D

Voltaire This cosy country kitchen, located on the corner of its pretty namesake street, serves up simple, tasty and reasonably priced nosh for breakfast and lunch. The fresh pumpkin salad with poached egg and sun-dried tomatoes might just be one of the best light meals available in the city. There’s

!La Crespo Despite boasting the world’s seventh largest Jewish population, Argentina lacks solid options for homesick Jewish-cuisine aficionados (the Kosher McDonald’s in Abasto Shopping Centre doesn’t quite cut it). Luckily, there’s hope in this hidden Villa Crespo gem of a café. One of the few places in

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the city to offer a decent bagel, La Crespo serves up house specialities like knishes (dumplings), strudel and potato latkes. The hot pastrami sandwich is a must: stacked high with 200g of thin pastrami slices, served with pickled cucumbers, caramelised onions and Dijon mustard – all on multigrain bread. Thames 612, y Vera, Villa Crespo (4856 9770/www.lacrespo.com). Bus 19, 55, 65, 109. Open 11.30am-8pm Mon-Fri; 11.30am-6pm Sat, Sun. No credit cards. Map G1. D !Malvón This café-cum-bakery’s eclectic menu covers both the sweet and savoury, with nutella-filled French toast for the former and New York-inspired pastrami sandwiches and bagels for the latter. Malvón also has a second location in the gorgeous Palermo Botánico neighbourhood, meaning you’ll be able to walk off a weekend brunch with a stroll through the leafy streets. Both cafés are open late, so what started as a merienda can easily turn into dinner and drinks till the small hours. Serrano 789, y Aguirre, Villa Crespo (4774 2563/www.malvonba.com.ar). Bus 19, 34, 55. Open 9am-1am daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G1. D Other location Lafinur 3275, Palermo (4807 1458). Las Violetas Opened in 1884, used as a secret meeting place for political revolutionaries in the ’80s, abandoned by its owner and taken over by squatters in the ’90s, only to be reclaimed by the neighbourhood and completely revitalised just before the 2001 crisis – well, needless to say Las Violetas has an interesting history, and it’s showing no signs of stopping. Soaring ceilings, exquisite stainedglass windows and pristine whitejacketed waiters combine to make this an extra-special café spot.

Top 3 juice bars These hotspots not only have plenty of juice, but are also committed to sustainable living and are slowly convincing locals to experiment with new flavours. The Factory Husband and wife team Dane Ayaz Shah and Venezuelan Liyanleth Carrillo are on a mission to bring 100% fresh fruit juices to the people of Palermo. Time Out’s favourite blends include the tropical Sensuality – with passion fruit, apple and ginger – and All Green, a creamy mix of avocado, lemon and apple. The Factory also offers customised detox juice plans, sandwiches, coffee and invigorating ginger and apple shots. El Salvador 4995 (6379 8756/www. facebook.com/thefactory). Be Juice This bright and stylish Recoleta café has a range of revitalising juices, smoothies and flavoured waters. Sit at the yellow communal table and flip through art and architecture magazines or use the solar-powered charger to power up your phone while sipping a Super Vitamin juice and enjoying a freshly made salmon, avocado and rocket sandwich. After all that healthy goodness, there’s room to indulge in a slice of decadent passion fruit cheesecake or beetroot and chocolate cake. Barrientos 1586 (4806 7712/www. bejuice.com.ar). Smooothway Anyone’s who’s overdone it on the beef and malbec will delight in Smooothway’s orange and carrot based juices and creamy smoothies. There’s also a selection of healthy salads and soups, while organic goods like coffee, chestnut milk and jam are available for purchase. Smooothway delivers to the Palermo area and is currently developing a food truck that runs on sustainable energy. Soler 6036 (4771 4120/www. smooothway.com).

ALLIE LAZAR

Restaurants

NOLA Gastropub’s fried chicken

The Other Argentinian Meats Thought you’d be eating nothing but beef in Argentina? Think again. Allie Lazar samples the meats stealing the spotlight from the sacred cow

atin America’s cow capital has started to see a delicious yet uncharacteristic change in its historically beef-centric diet. Today’s chefs and restaurant owners are shifting the spotlight from carne, and developing entire restaurant concepts around alternative stars, the other meats: chicken and pork. New Orleans-born cook Liza Puglia, who ran a popular CreoleCajun puerta cerrada, has upped her game to bring the city NOLA Gastropub (see p78). NOLA stands for New Orleans, Louisiana, and specialises in two equally delicious delights: fried chicken and craft beer. Pollo praise covers the walls in the form of a huge sketch of a chicken drawn by a local tattoo artist, and in the open-plan kitchen, Puglia uses every part of the 70 birds she cooks per week. ‘We first break down the chicken, use the bones for the gumbo stock, the chicken breasts for fried chicken sandwiches, and then the rest we fry for the pollo frito,’ says Puglia. Perfecting the Cajun spiced chicken, which is marinated for 24 hours, took many trials and

tweaks. The result? Juicy chicken bursting with flavour and encrusted in a shell of dreamlike fried coating. NOLA is not just for homesick foreigners; for many porteños, the Palermo gastropub is their first experience of fried chicken, and they quickly become hooked. ‘Argentinians think it’s fun and interesting. It’s different – the unique spicy flavours and eating with your hands. They find it exciting,’ says Puglia. Almagro’s pride and joy, La Cresta (see p40), has been going strong since it opened in 2012, and is known for its sensational rotisserie chicken. Whole birds are generously smothered in the house’s secret spice before being skewered and roasted over an open flame. It doesn’t matter that there are only a few bar stools in this mostly takeaway joint, devoted fans travel from far and wide to sit kerbside as they tuck into the inventive flavour combinations of La Cresta’s healthy and affordable chicken wraps. Chicken restaurants are not new in Buenos Aires, but they have

historically been in locations firmly off the tourist map. Authentic Peruvian joints such as La Conga (La Rioja 39, 4865 5084) in Once have been serving chicken to members of their local community for years. This busy pollería roasts hundreds of succulent pollos a la brasa per week, as well as preparing a killer fried rendition of roasted chicken and chicharrón de pollo. Also in Once, Carlitos (Corrientes 3070, 4861 6440) draws in whole families who feast on the roasted chicken, French fries and salad combo – easily a meal for six. For the more adventurous chicken chasers, Koreatown in Flores boasts a few hidden family-owned spots that specialise in Korean fried chicken. Knock on the unmarked door at Maniko (Felipe Vallese 3600, 4671 3672) and head into the slightly sketchy back room for a massive platter of fried chicken drenched in sweet and sour sauce. We all know bacon is God’s gift to this earth, so it was only a matter of time until porteños caught on and gave pork the love it deserves.

Chochán (see p36) in San Telmo was the first of the bunch to give cerdo a grand salute. Young chef Naiara Calviño uses every part of the pig on her inventive menu: headcheese with pickled vegetables, potato and blood sausage croquettes, barbecue pulled pork shoulder sandwich and pork loin milanesa topped with a fried egg. Once a month, top chef Yago Márquez takes over the kitchen of some of the city’s best spots to pay a piggy homage at his pop-up dinners Homenaje al Cerdo (www. facebook.com/homenajealcerdo). ‘We are invading all sorts of restaurants to cook pork, adapting to the philosophy of each place,’ says Márquez, who has so far regaled happy customers at the likes of Bernata (see p76) and Verne Club (see p78). Márquez grew up eating pork in his native Spain but felt the void when he moved to Buenos Aires. ‘Argentina is vaca-céntrico,’ he explains, ‘but people are starting to become more open-minded and eat pork.’ In his mobile pork kitchen, Márquez makes sure he uses all cuts and parts of the pig including the feet, ears, knuckles and ham hock. Die-hard Texan Larry Rogers also wanted to bring a taste of his home town to Buenos Aires. El Tejano (see p61) is named after Rogers’s alter ego and is the first ever Texas-style barbecue in Argentina. Rogers does the Lone Star state proud with the 30 hours of preparation he puts into each serving of his pork ribs, especially considering he makes 400kg each month. Along with most things on the menu, the pork ribs are cooked in a smoker, which El Tejano helped build himself. The above oinking joints may be new, but restaurants like El Casal (Chacabuco 863, 4300 4141, www. casal.org.ar), Urondo Bar (see p68), Café San Juan (see p38) and Las Pizarras (see p51) have been featuring pork on the menu for nearly a decade. It’s almost a religious experience to go the whole hog and devour El Casal’s entire sucking pig, and pretty remarkable to witness the wonderfully perverse pork shoulder wrapped up and cooked inside a whole pig at Café San Juan. Las Pizarras also has a knack for slow cooking its suckling pork – it then serves the ultra tender slab with a chickpea and peanut purée topped with pomegranate seeds. Urondo Bar has also been a long time proponent of the pig, and its famed appetisers display this beautifully. Try the thick cut crispy bacon with mushrooms and fried egg, or the crispy pancetta wrapped in juicy dates. So think twice before devoting yourself entirely to the cow, and give Argentina a chance to wow you with its pork or chicken. Allie Lazar is the author of popular food blog pickupthefork.com and leads customised street food tours (feedme@pickupthefork.com).

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Restaurants

The essentials

Traditional Argentinian food may be fairly predictable, but the culinary scene in Buenos Aires is constantly evolving, as Argentinians and foreigners with highly developed palates bring more and more flavours and gastronomic experiments to the tables of every barrio. There’s always demand for more upscale dining in this city, a fact newcomers Ralph’s (see p36), Roux (see p64) and the much anticipated soon-to-open La Mar (Arévalo 2024, www.lamarcebicheria.com) can attest to. But laid-back joints Chochán (see p36) and Gran Dabbang (see p54) are evidence that innovative dining doesn’t always come at a high price. These spots and other restaurants are giving diners a day off from bife, with chicken, pork, lamb and some even more exotic meats like ostrich and alligator making more appearances on local menus. If you are still angling for beef, there are plenty of options, including parrillas like La Cabrera (see p47) and Don Julio (p48) and hamburger joints such as Dean & Dennys’s (see p46) new restaurant in Recoleta and Burger Joint (see p46). And if you still need proof that BA is a contender on the international dining scene, look no further than the 11 porteño restaurants that made the cut on Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants list of 2014 (see p51).

HOW TO USE THE LISTINGS This section brings together our pick of the city’s restaurants. Prices are represented by peso signs: $ indicates a rough range of under AR$100 for main courses, although some restaurants have special dishes on their menus that can be much more expensive; $$ is AR$100-$150; $$$ is AR$151-$200; and $$$$ indicates AR$200 and above. Prices given here do not include extras such as wine, starters, dessert or coffees. ! is for restaurants we particularly recommend. NEW signals a restaurant that has opened in the last six months or so. A marks a restaurant whose bar is worth a visit on its own, whether or not you stay for dinner. ! marks our top spots for bargain dining – they’re not always the cheapest places, but they nevertheless represent good value for money. V is for restaurants with good options for vegetarians, or which are entirely veggie.

The Centre

ARGENTINIAN – TRADITIONAL

Club del Progreso Dating from 1852, this hidden treasure in the heart of Congreso features a menu based on traditional dishes that have been reinvented for modern times and are served in an unassuming paradise. In fine weather, relaxing in

Aldo’s (see p36)

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the lovely garden is an excellent option. Try the suckling pig cooked in the outdoor mud oven, or opt for the succulent salmon. Sarmiento 1334, entre Talcahuano y Uruguay, Congreso (4372 3350/ www.restorandelprogreso.com.ar). Subte B, Uruguay/bus 5, 24, 100, 111, 115, 129, 140, 146, 150, 151, 168, 180. Open 12.30-3.30pm, 8pm-1am Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$. Lunch AR$120 with wine. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D4. A ARGENTINIAN – MODERN

!Dadá Dadá is one of the hottest spots in the city and is also one of the most frequently recommended places to chow down. Set in a small and cheerful space, the owner Paolo and his family weave their magic, managing to charm and serve clients with a menu that is as imaginative as the lighting and furnishings that adorn the restaurant. The menu often changes but the classics remain. If you are looking for a light bite, the delicious houmous and guacamole dips are fabulous finger foods, or if you’re feeling a little bit more peckish, the lomo Dadá or the salmon with polenta never fail. Chilled lagers, good cocktails and a fine boutique wine list complete a very pretty picture. San Martín 941, entre Marcelo T de Alvear y Paraguay, Microcentro (4314 4787). Subte C, San Martín/bus 5, 6, 7, 9, 20, 33, 62, 93, 152, 180, 195.

Open noon-3am Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$. Lunch AR$100. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D6. A !Moreneta de Montserrat Porteña Luciana Conte and Italian Sebastián Raggiante brought their culinary passion to BA in 2010, after augmenting the Michelin status of several European restaurants. Befitting of the business centred neighbourhood, the lunch hour at Moreneta is filled with suits, but the decor and ambience are perennially bright and inviting. As you’d expect from alumni of El Bulli’s Ferran Adrià, everything arrives impeccably presented. Specials change daily, but expect to see earthy, elegant plates like leek ravioli and home-made pizza topped with sun-dried tomatoes and rocket. Moreno 477, entre Bolívar y Defensa, Monserrat (4331 1428/www.moreneta. com.ar). Subte A, Plaza de Mayo/bus 10, 93, 152. Open 8am-7pm Mon-Fri. Main courses $. Lunch AR$65. Credit cards MC, V. Map B5. Tomo I Those hankering after the good ol’ days, when eating out was more about quality than keeping up with trends, need to pay a visit to the ever-reliable Tomo I. This elegant restaurant within downtown’s Hotel Panamericano serves up what might just be the best tasting menu in the city; the dishes change constantly, but could just as easily

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Restaurants

El Refuerzo (see p38)

include ostrich ravioli as beef tenderloin. A soft warm glow, spotlessly white tables and jazz tunes make this a romantic place for a tête-à-tête, while the restaurant’s proximity to the Teatro Colón means you’ll likely see opera singers in their glad rags swanning in for a postperformance feast. Red wines served in crystal decanters by suited staff add a glamorous touch to a night out; reservations and sharp dress are recommended, if not essential. Hotel Panamericano, Carlos Pellegrini 521, y Tucumán, Microcentro (4326 6695/www.tomo1.com.ar). Subte B, Carlos Pellegrini/bus 5, 6, 9, 10, 17, 29, 100, 109, 111, 115. Open noon-3pm Mon-Fri; 7.30pm-midnight Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$$. Lunch AR$410 Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5.

Hipólito Yrigoyen 1386, y San José, Congreso (4382 8689). Subte A, Lima/ bus 38, 60, 67, 102, 129, 151, 168. Open noon-4pm, 8pm-midnight Mon, Wed-Sat. Main courses $. Lunch AR$85. No credit cards. Map C4. A ITALIAN

El Cuartito El Cuartito is a taste of BA in its tango heyday, and little has changed since 1934, when it started serving thick-crust, topping-heavy pizzas (except perhaps the prices, nowadays AR$95 for a whole pizza). In the fierce debate over the city’s best pizzeria, this cavernous, no-frills joint is a serious contender for the top spot. One bite of the fugazzeta (cheese and onion pizza) and you might agree, or opt for the Tabasco-laden Atómica. Don’t let the queues put you off: if you’re too famished to ECLECTIC wait for a table beneath Gourmet grocer the photos of local El Perlado For gourmet goodies, sporting heroes, march Located behind the gothic visit the monthly Bue- up to the cash register Palacio Barolo (see p118) nos Aires Market (www. and order a slice of and next to beloved buenosairesmarket. whatever you fancy to Peruvian restaurant com). devour at the counter. For Chan Chan (see p34), El a taste of El Cuartito’s Perlado is packed out most competitors, it’s a mere five blocks nights, thanks to its cheery to the city’s pizza-parlour heartland of atmosphere, good value and eclectic menu. The narrow space feels intimate Avenida Corrientes. There you’ll find celebrity haunt Las Cuartetas (Avenida rather than cramped and an art deco theme runs throughout, from the black Corrientes 838) and Güerrín (Avenida Corrientes 1368). and silver painted walls to the menu’s Talcahuano 937, entre Paraguay y typography. For starters, go for the excellent battered prawns with coconut Marcelo T de Alvear, Tribunales (4816 1758). Subte D, Tribunales/bus 10, 29, and panko; mains include a tenderloin 152, 180. Open 12.30pm-1am steak wrapped in bacon and beetroot Tue-Thu, Sun; 12.30pm-2am Fri, Sat. gnocchi with goat’s cheese in a cured Main courses $. No credit cards. ham and tomato-based sauce. There Map D5. ! V are huge burgers too (made of both lamb and beef) served with thick !Filo cheddar cheese, houmous and salad. With Argentina’s constant inflation, it’s The wine list is full of value options, no easy task to keep prices in check. with bottles from AR$53, but start with a classic cocktail such as the razor Filo, which is celebrating its 20th anniversary in 2014, has managed to sharp negroni.

TOP TIP!

32 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15

Restaurants Time Out Insidersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15 33

Restaurants

do just that and as a result is a popular lunchtime restaurant. Come 1pm, even the bar stools are occupied by rows of financial advisers chowing down on large pizzas topped with every combination of cheese, vegetables and meat imaginable. With a cool, urban interior accented by slashes of red and yellow, a lengthy menu that includes pastas, seafood, salads and more, oversized bread baskets on every table and a traditional brick oven, it’s an obvious contender for one of the best places to grab a bite downtown. Nab a chair early and pair your pizza with a salad made from delicious, flavoursome steamed vegetables. San Martín 975, entre Marcelo T de Alvear y Paraguay, Retiro (4311 0312/ www.filo-ristorante.com). Subte C, San Martín/bus 10, 93, 130, 152. Open noon-2am daily. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C6. A

Chan Chan

Recommended Good value grub

Want a decent nosh-up that won’t break the bank? At these great value restaurants you’ll leave with change, a full belly and maybe even a doggy bag. Prices vary, but expect to spend around AR$150 a head. Sarkis The key to dining at popular Armenian joint Sarkis? Get there early, put your name on the list and have a glass of wine or a beer while you wait. Once inside, order plenty of starters and mains to share; particularly recommended are the grilled lamb with yoghurt, the vegetarian moussaka and the tabbouleh. See p64. Chan Chan Peruvian food haven Chan Chan has abundant seafood, affordable prices and rather kitsch decor. Share the mixed ceviche with a side of rabas (fried calamari), or opt for the pescado a lo macho (fish in seafood sauce) washed down with a pisco sour or three. See right. Arepera The maize arepas at this laid-back Venezuelan restaurant are bursting with delicious, fresh fillings. The picada arepera has enough mini-arepas and cachapas for two or three people, and the large jugs of fruit juice are the closest you’ll get to the tropics in Buenos Aires. Flavours include lulo, guanabana and passionfruit. See p64. La Hormiga This bright new restaurant serves up huge portions of traditional Argentinian cuisine to the hungry hoards of Palermo. The penguin shaped jugs of wine or lemonade are enough for two, and the fish and meat dishes come on oversized platters. La Hormiga is also one of the few restaurants in the city with maté on the menu; the refreshing iced version, tereré, is the perfect pick-me-up on hot, humid afternoons (served 4-7pm). Armenia 1680 (4834 6906). La Esperanza de los Ascurra The tapas at this delightful restaurant come in small, half or whole ‘rations’, so order several plates in sizes to suit your appetite and get munching. Highlights include the meatballs, garlic prawns and vegetable lasagne. Real bargain hunters should arrive before 8.30pm to scoff three cold tapas with a Cinzano for just AR$64. See p64. 34 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15

Maria Fedele Squirreled away inside the unassuming Associazione Nazionale Italiana, this discreet restaurant would get the nod of approval from even the most discerning Italian mother. Make the charming waiters’ day by managing to eat with relish all four delicious courses on the set menu – not and easy task, it should be noted. The table positively groans with plates of delicacies like smoked roasted peppers, velvety duck pâté, home-made cured hams, and after the fresh pasta course, meat course, and home-made dessert platter, your stomach may well be groaning too. Fortunately, the complimentary digestif, a delicious and liberally poured fennel grappa, should sort things out. Alsina 1465, entre San José y Luis Sáenz Peña, Congreso (4381 2233/ www.ristorantemariafedele.com). Subte A, Sáenz Peña/bus 6, 60, 86. Open 8pm-midnight Wed-Sat. Set menu AR$210. No credit cards. Map C4. JAPANESE

NEW Wasabi’s Having done so well in Palermo, Wasabi’s recently opened a new downtown location for lunch during the week, with both a seating area and takeaway options. The sushi joint’s new location still peddles the same quality Japanese cuisine at prices that are hard to believe. Soups, sushi combos, Thai and Peruvian fushion are all served fast and on the cheap, with delivery options available as well. The classic rolls are all there, but Wasabi’s certainly isn’t bogged down by tradition; the Malbec roll is salmon and spring onions with Philadelphia cheese, wrapped in smoked salmon and sprinkled with a malbec reduction sauce, and the Inka roll is deep-fried white fish topped with ceviche, paired with a tiger’s milk dip. The original Palermo branch is still going strong at dinnertime and weekends. San Martin 986, y Marcelo T de Alvear (4515 0675/www.wasabis.com. ar). Subte C, San Martín/bus 5, 7, 20, 22, 26, 50, 61. Open noon-5pm, Mon-Fri. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D6. !

Other location Thames 1810, Palermo (4832 9346). PERUVIAN

!Chan Chan Tucked behind the magnificent Palacio Barolo (see p118), sweet and simple Chan Chan continues to wow punters with its brilliant, spicy Peruvian food at affordable prices. Among a long list of Andean classics, look out for the excellent chicharrón de pescado (battered fish) and the causa de salmón ahumado – a colourful stack of salmon-and-potato-based joy. A popular dessert is the torta de tres leches (a three milk sweet treat). Chan Chan is a genuine bargain, with prices for mains coming in under AR$70, which means the budget can stretch to a pisco sour or a jug of Time Out’s favourite elixir, chicha morada (a purple corn-based cordial). Hipólito Yrigoyen 1390, y San José, Congreso (4382 8492). Subte A, Sáenz Peña/bus 39, 60, 151, 168. Open noon-4pm, 8pm-12.30am Tue-Sat. Main courses $. No credit cards. Map C4. ! Coya Though this local haunt is located in the backstreets of Microcentro, don’t let the daytime chaos or night-time ghosts put you off eating here. Abundant platters of ceviche made of fresh juicy mariscos soaked in a red onion, coriander and lemon juice marinade make for a refreshing starter to share, but a meal here wouldn’t be complete without a sweet and hard-hitting pisco sour. The decor and ambience is simple, but locals come again and again for the great food. Tucumán 874, y Suipacha, Microcentro (4393 1709/ www.comidaperuanacoya. com). Subte B, Diagonal Norte/bus 29, 59, 67. Open noon-midnight Wed-Mon. Main courses $. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C5. Mullu Every customer who walks through Mullu’s doors is greeted with an enthusiastic ‘Rimaykullayki’ – ‘welcome’ in Quechua. And once inside, many wish for a permanent lock-in. Food-lovers can keep an eye on the open kitchen as Chifa (ChinesePeruvian) and Nikkei (JapanesePeruvian) dishes are slivered together. Fishy favourites are the tiradito rosita, delectable Spanish octopus in a black olive salsa and steamed white salmon sashimi with lamb stew. Pasaje Ricardo Rojas 451, y Reconquista, Retiro (4311 2812/ www.mullurestaurant.com). Subte C, San Martín/bus 26, 93. Open noon-3.30pm, 8pm-midnight Mon-Wed; 8pm-1am Thu-Sat. Main courses $$$$. Lunch AR$95. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D6. Rawa Having seen queues of disappointed people file away from BA classic Chan Chan (see above), owner María and her family decided to open this second restaurant to catch the overfill. Hearty standards like chupe de mariscos, ají de

San Telmo

ARGENTINIAN – TRADITIONAL

La Brigada If you’ve ever had dinner in San Telmo, you know what it’s like to be packed in tightly with eager patrons awaiting their steak and papas fritas. The difference at La Brigada is that you’re more likely to bump elbows with gents discussing wine than with the usual jumble of backpackers and young lovers. Though refined, this parrilla is traditionally Argentinian to its core. One floor of the multi-tiered dining room is covered with framed football jerseys, while further upstairs is a massive wine case with zigzagging bottles. Bottles line the staircase leading downstairs to the cavernous wine cellar, a veritable vino lover’s haven with bottles stacked to the ceiling and in every nook and cranny. Estados Unidos 465, entre Bolívar y Defensa (4361 4685/www. parrillalabrigada.com.ar). Bus 29, 195. Open noon-3pm, 8pm-midnight daily. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. El Desnivel High on the list of fun things to do in BA without taking your clothes off is a late-night steak blowout at this

legendary San Telmo parrilla. Staffing the joint are bloody-apron-wearing, knife-wielding cooks and cheeky waiters, and the mix of foreigners and locals makes for a boisterous and friendly scene. If you want to feel part of the action, get a table in the main restaurant rather than in the annex out the back. By Sunday evening, after the tourist hordes have worked up an appetite at the street market the wait can be long – better to go on a quieter weekday, or drop in for a juicy empanada, filled with chicken or beef, to devour as you walk down the street. Defensa 855, entre Avenida Independencia y Estados Unidos (4300 9081). Subte C, Independencia/bus 10, 24, 29, 93. Open 7.30pm-1am Mon; noon-1am Tue-Sun. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$90. Credit (Mon-Fri only) AmEx, MC, V. Map B4.!

Restaurants

gallina and lomo salteado are popular in the winter while in hotter weather degustaciones de ceviche and papas a la huancaina reign supreme. Lime-green tablecloths, plastic plants and a towering Machu Picchu on the wall mean Rawa is thankfully just as kitsch as Chan Chan. Talcahuano 447, entre Lavalle y Avenida Corrientes, Tribunales (4519 8629). Subte D, Tribunales/bus 24, 26, 29, 67. Open noon-4pm, 8pmmidnight daily. Main courses $. No credit cards. Map D5.

Gran Parrilla del Plata With a great location on a picturesque corner, fine cuts of beef and rustic-style decor, the Gran Parrilla del Plata has established itself as a barrio classic and gets packed out most nights. All the cuts of meat are exquisite; but the ojo de bife (ribeye) and the tasty entraña (skirt steak) are the ones most recommended by the friendly, multilingual waiters. Equally worth sampling is the Argentinian comfort food, like milanesa and home-made pasta. Still hungry? An enormous slice of tiramisu or the torta guilt – brownie, chocolate mousse, dulce de leche and meringue – should just about tip you over the edge. Classy but welcoming, this steakhouse is always reliable. Chile 594, y Perú (4300 8858/ www.parrilladelplata.com.ar). Subte E, Belgrano/bus 29, 93, 152. Open noon-4pm, 8pm-1am Mon-Sat; noon-1am Sun. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. ADRIEN DE BONTIN

Osaka (see p44)

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Restaurants

Moreno 372, entre Defensa y Balcarce (5291 2380/www.aldosvinoteca.com). Subte A, Perú/bus 29, 64, 74, 129. Open noon-midnight Sun-Thu; noon-1am Fri, Sat. Main courses $$$. Lunch AR$155. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B5. El Baqueano Recently awarded 18th spot in the 2014 Latin American edition of ‘World’s 50 Best Restaurants’ competition (a highly coveted prize), this San Telmo eaterie is no longer the hidden secret it once was. The theme here is ‘carnes autóctonas’, meaning native meat. El Baqueano’s is perhaps one of the few menus in town that doesn’t include beef; chef and owner Fernando Rivarola instead favours Argentina’s more exotic fauna. And yes, that means llama is on the menu, but in this case served in delicate slivers of carpaccio. Less famous meats include yacaré (caiman) enveloped in a gyoza dumpling with preserves from the yacaratiá tree, and smoked rhea with braised yucca. Original and surprisingly delicious, the tasting menu allows diners to savour delicacies like a millefeuille of duck and cream-cheese tart with strawberries, with wines to accompany each dish. Look out for monthly specials, when a top South American chef takes over the kitchen. Chile 499, y Bolívar (4342 0802/www. restoelbaqueano.com). Subte C, Independencia/bus 29, 86, 93, 103, 111, 126, 130, 143, 152, 159, 195. Open 8pm-midnight Tue-Sat. Set menu AR$300. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4.

New in town Ralph’s

Jorge Fernández Moreno had a dream. An upmarket bar and bistro where the well-heeled could enjoy an entire evening’s pleasure: cocktails, fine dining and good music. Ralph’s is the result, and it’s simply divine. Ex-Astrid y Gastón chef Hernán Taiana makes stunningly presented, exquisite food, the staff are attentive yet discreet and the interior is all plush furnishings and low lighting. Tuesday night is Nikkei sushi night, while from Wednesdays to Saturdays, a DJ mixes jazz as socialites pose on the patio. The menu changes with the equinox, but whatever the season, Ralph’s is truly unforgettable. Gurruchaga 1830, y Costa Rica (4832 8940) Bus 15, 34, 36, 39, 55, 110, 111. Open 7pm-4am Tue-Sat. Main courses $$$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. A Manolo This friendly neighbourhood joint is buzzing most nights with a loyal clientele who come to feast on both excellent parrilla standards, and parrilla standards with a twist – a ham and mozzarella-stuffed steak, for example, or a selection of great sauces. Besides steak, there are Argentinian favourites such as milanesas and home-made pastas. Most dishes are more than enough for two, so moderate your gluttony if you dream of handling one of the many delicious desserts; you’ll be thankful you saved room for home-made flan with dulce de leche or a large slice of tiramisu. Bolívar 1299, y Cochabamba (4307 8743/www.restaurantmanolo.com.ar). Bus 10, 24, 29, 39, 86, 93, 126, 152. Open from 8pm-midnight Mon-Fri; from 2pm Sat, Sun. Main courses $. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4.!

ARGENTINIAN – MODERN

!Aldo’s Vinoteca y Restorán At this Russian doll of a restaurant within a wine store within a hotel (the Moreno), celebrity sommelier Aldo Graziani has made vino the star of the show: 500 quality labels adorn the modern art-deco restaurant. All the wines are selected at blind tastings and sold at retail price, converting this into a fabulous wine store that happens to have a stellar kitchen attached. An exquisite modern Argentinian menu includes tenderloin steak in a rich red wine sauce, vegetable soufflés, lamb risotto, and chocolate volcanos with dulce de leche, just to name a few. Take advantage of the Tuesday wine tastings and Wednesday evening happy hour to find your favourite grape juice, and then come back every other night.

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Café Rivas Set on possibly the prettiest corner in San Telmo, Café Rivas has the air of a tearoom. Inside, it’s all retro wood and cake stands, and the occasional dramatic flash of fire as the chef does his thing in the open kitchen. The no-nonsense menu is a mix of classic Argentinian and comfort food – think milanesa, neat beef medallions and aubergine raviolis, served with a smile. But the place really comes into its own as a haven from the teeming streets of San Telmo on a Sunday afternoon; dart in here for a break from the street market madness for a coffee and decadent brownie or cupcake. Come Thursday night, relax to the magical tinkling of a piano being played on the mezzanine floor. Estados Unidos 302, y Balcarce (4361 5539). Bus 22, 24, 29, 130. Open 9am-midnight Tue-Sat; 11am-8pm Sun. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$120. Credit AmEx, V. Map B4. Caseros Passing Caseros on the street, it would be hard to resist going inside; huge windows open up to a blue and white dining room and kitchen that look to have been lifted straight out of a bistro in the French countryside. In lieu of flowers, bowls of lemons and oranges top each table for a pop of colour floating on a white tablecloth. The cuisine matches the rustic-chic decor; if menus came with sound effects, Casero’s carta would open to the thrum

of a bustling market and the sound of grannies humming at their chopping boards. Everything is freshly made with locally sourced ingredients, from the warm bread with herb butter, to the chicken and spinach raviolis and sweetbreads. On a brisk day, nothing is more comforting than Caseros’s rich chocolate cake and rice pudding. Avenida Caseros 486, entre Bolívar y Defensa (4307 4729/www. caserosrestaurante.com.ar). Bus 24, 28, 29, 39, 46, 53, 61. Open 12.303.30pm, 8.30pm-midnight Tue-Sat. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$95. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map A3. NEW Chochán Slang for chancho in Spanish, Chochán pays a special tribute to the king of swine. The casual San Telmo spot welcomes pork-lovers with its kitsch design, communal tables and large chalkboard menus displaying a selected number of appetisers and sandwiches. Young chef Naiara Calviño uses every part of the pig to pump out oinking dishes like pulled pork, milanesa with a fried egg, home-made ham and purple pickled eggs, headcheese and blood sausage potato croquettes. An orgy of sauces are also dropped off at the table, including a spicy Sriracha mayonnaise that gives dishes a nice added heat. Don’t miss the daily happy hour from 7pm to 9pm, which features wine and aperitif specials. Piedras 672, y Chile (4307 3661). Subte E, Belgrano/bus 8, 10, 17, 29, 45, 53, 67, 91, 98. Open 7pmmidnight Mon-Thu; noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight Fri-Sun. Main courses $. No credit cards. Map B4. La Panadería de Pablo Elegant, white linen filled restaurants often conjure up images of stodgy diners and fussy plates, but La Panadería de Pablo has found a way to mix elegance with a vibrant, lively atmosphere. The open-air terrace with a cocktail bar certainly doesn’t hurt the vibe, nor does the addition of a different DJ every Thursday night. Good music and drinks aside, the food is forever the star here. As is to be expected of a Pablo Massey venture, the menu is sophisticated and concise; smoked salmon bruschetta and margherita pizza are fresh and light, while the ribeye marinated in rosemary and thyme will satisfy the foreigner hankering after quality Argentinian steak. To unwind after a long week, there’s a varied Sunday brunch menu with the likes of a sophisticated goat’s cheese frittata and down-to-earth hash browns. Defensa 269, y Moreno (4331 6728/ www.lapanaderiadepablo.com). Subte A, Plaza de Mayo/bus 29, 50, 61, 62, 64, 111, 129, 130, 143, 146, 152, 159. Open 9.30am-6pm Mon-Wed; 9.30am-midnight Thu, Fri; 11ammidnight Sat; 10am-7pm Sun. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$143. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B5. La Popular This colourful place is exactly what it claims to be: popular. The decor stands

Restaurants Time Out Insidersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15 37

Restaurants Pan y Arte (see p42)

out here where you can find a bike and vintage Cinzano adverts across the walls. The ambience is family friendly and the menu boasts healthy and delicious options. It doesn’t scream originality, but the ojo de bife and mushroom risotto are simply scrumptious. The prices are reasonable and the happy, down-to-earth clientele has made this a staple of the San Telmo dining scene. Avenida Caseros 500, y Bolívar (4307 6040). Bus 39, 152. Open 9am-4pm Mon; 9am-4pm, 8pm-12.30am Tue-Thu; 8pm-1.30am Fri, Sat; noon-5pm, 8pm-midnight Sun. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map A3. !El Refuerzo Pocket-sized El Refuerzo is basically a local’s ‘anti-fashion’ joint, but you get the impression the quirky, laid-back San Telmo regulars are happy to share their favourite spot with you. It’s the perfect spot for an aperitif accompanied by quality cured hams, olives, local cheeses and hearty salads. The four satisfyingly simple main dishes change daily, but expect beef and pasta to play a starring role. The wine list, scrawled on the blackboard, is excellent and well priced. With its black and white tiled floors, antique counter and cluttered wooden tables, this locale feels like a late-night hangout in post-war Rome – you half expect Marcello Mastroianni to scoot up on a Vespa and start flirting with the punters. Chacabuco 872, entre Avenida Independencia y Estados Unidos

(4361 3013). Subte C, Independencia/ bus 2, 10, 17, 29, 59, 86, 126. Open 10am-1am Tue-Sun. Main courses $$$. No credit cards. Map B4. !A FRENCH

hard to tire of. All the bistro classics make an appearance, from boeuf bourguignon to escargots, served by a corps of efficient and friendly waiters. For desserts, the crème brûlée sampler of vanilla, orange and pistachio is a refreshing take on the French standard. If it’s Sunday, pitch up early or you won’t even get a glimpse of the confit de canard, not least since Petanque lies smack in the heart of San Telmo’s rolling Sunday market. Those travelling through Chile will have to stop at Petanque’s Santiago branch. Defensa 596, y México (4342 7930/ www.brasserie petanque.com). Bus 24, 29, 86, 93, 103, 111, 126, 129, 130, 143, 152. Open 12.30-4pm, 8pm-midnight Tue-Sun. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$105. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4.

L’Atelier de Celine Proprietor and host Celine serves up creative French-based cuisine in her charming San Telmo house. Every client is welcomed by the owner with her French accent, a big smile and a complimentary kir. Starters include Gallic classics like rabbit terrine, onion soup and an exceptional crème de brule made with brie. Main courses run the gamut from French renditions of typical Argentinian dishes like entraña with shallots to heartwarming dishes like guiso de cordero (lamb stew) and solomillo de cerdo. A large roof terrace offers Food tour SPANISH customers an authentic Sign up for a top notch Café San Juan perspective on a typical dining tour with the Café San Juan is no longer BA cityscape, making it friendly Argie-Aussie the bargain it was when it an ideal dining spot for a team at Fuudis (fuufirst opened, but warm night. dis.com). reservations are still more Carlos Calvo 242, y or less essential here unless Balcarce (4361 1269). Bus 29, you’re planning to slip in for a quick 64, 111, 152. Open 8pm-midnight bite at noon. During the daily lunch Tue-Fri; noon-4pm, 8pm-midnight Sat; rush, chef Leandro Cristóbal fashions noon-11pm Sun. Main courses $$. inventive tapas and pastas from the Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. likes of sun-dried tomatoes, brie and seasonal vegetables, while his mother Brasserie Petanque pours the wine. The daily menu is Brasserie Petanque is as French as it gets this side of the Atlantic; bottles of scrawled on chalkboards that are hauled around from table to table, wine and Ricard pastis are stacked to resplendent with homely dishes like the ceiling and the menu bristles with courgette-rich fettuccine, and meaty the sort of Gallic standards that are

38 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15

TOP TIP!

fare like ojo de bife and pork. Avenida San Juan 450, y Bolívar (4300 1112). Subte C, San Juan/bus 4, 8, 22, 24, 29, 33, 61, 86. Open 12.30-4pm, 8pm-midnight Tue-Thu, Sun; 12.30-4pm, 8pm-1am Fri, Sat. Main courses $$$. Tapas AR$60-$80. No credit cards. Map B4. Other location Chile 474, San Telmo (4300 9344). VEGETARIAN

Hierbabuena While not strictly vegetarian (you’ll find the odd fish or chicken dish), cute, French-style Hierbabuena serves up sophisticated healthy grub. At this cosy San Telmo joint, colour abounds on every plate with vegetables so bright and fresh, even the pickiest kid couldn’t resist. And for anyone who thinks vegetarian food can’t be filling, think again: hearty options like the tri-mushroom veggie burger, or home-made pizzas topped with caramelised onions, roasted aubergine, rocket and cherry tomatoes will satisfy every glutton (although Hierbabuena has plenty of freshly baked goods to round off a meal should you be left wanting more). It goes without saying that any meal, vegetarian or otherwise, calls for a jug or two of one of the famous fruit-infused lemonades. Avenida Caseros 454, y Defensa (4362 2542/www.hierbabuena.com.ar). Bus 10, 29, 39, 70, 195. Open 9am-5pm Mon; 9am-midnight Tue-Sun. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$130. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map A3. V

La Boca

ARGENTINIAN – TRADITIONAL

Restaurants

El Obrero El Obrero (literally ‘the worker’, which tells you a fair bit about the ambience of this place) is one of the city’s most famous restaurants, and celebrities from Bono to Wim Wenders have eaten at this living, thriving museum piece in the heart of the old port neighbourhood. (The area is gritty, verging on lawless, so go with company and take a taxi there and back.) The decor is busy with photos of boxing and football stars, the paint is peeling and the toilet is a glorified outhouse, but this is a classic spot for a three-hour lunch or dinner. Most people go for the parrilla items on the chalkboard, but there are also fair pasta and fish dishes, and a selection of old-style desserts like the sweet flan should finish you off nicely. Agustín Caffarena 64, entre Ministro Brin y Caboto (4362 9912). Bus 25, 29, 68, 130, 152, 159, 168, 195. Open noon-4.30pm, 8.15pm-1.30am Mon-Sat. Main courses $$. No credit cards. ITALIAN

Il Matterello The food takes centre stage in this crisp, clean, cantina-style La Boca eaterie. A mixed plate of warm and cold antipasti serves to enliven the taste buds impressively in preparation for an excellent, al dente tagliatelle with a puttanesca sauce and a truly sumptuous fazzoletti alla carbonara. Straight-to-the-point service and unpretentious decor help to accompany, but not out-twinkle, the star here, which shines brightly from the kitchen. Tourists can also get a bite of fresh pasta and tiramisu without the long trek to La Boca at Il Mattarello’s Palermo Soho branch. Martín Rodríguez 517, y Villafañe (4307 0529). Bus 29, 64, 86, 129, 130, 152, 159, 168. Open 12.30-3pm, 8.30pm-midnight Tue-Sat; 12.30-3pm Sun. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B2. Other location Gorriti 5102, Palermo (4831 8493).

Constitución ARGENTINIAN – TRADITIONAL

Miramar Beloved by its barrio and by the mix of actors and local celebrities that frequent it, Miramar is an unpretentious restaurant boasting a well-stocked wine cellar and amiable and experienced waiters. It’s in one of the lesser known and less reputable parts of the city, but for something different and authentic, it’s worth the trip. The cooking is predominantly Spanish, and it’s extremely good. Sample rabbit in white wine, tortillas and oysters or prawns in garlic while listening to crackly tangos. The joint’s famed rabo de toro (oxtail stew) has a limb-warming quality that’s verging on narcotic. You can also tuck into fresh centolla (king crab) on the weekends, or 40 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15

keep it light and split a cheeseboard and a bottle of wine. Avenida San Juan 1999, y Sarandí (4304 4261). Subte E, Entre Ríos/bus 4, 12, 37, 50, 53, 62, 84, 90, 150, 151, 168, 188, 195. Open noon-4pm, 8pm-midnight Tue-Sun. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C2. ARGENTINIAN – MODERN

Aramburu Despite the rather dubious surroundings, it’s well worth ducking into this hothouse of culinary innovation to embark on a tastingmenu journey through Paris-infused Argentina. Diners are well taken care of here, as clued-up and friendly staff can decode the complex menu descriptions, and the open kitchen allows chefs to come out and greet guests. Creativity abounds in every dish on a menu that changes seasonally. It’s that kind of innovation

Recommended Takeaway food

These hole-in-the-wall joints might not have much room to sit and enjoy a meal, but there’s a reason why they have a queue of locals snaking out the door. El Banco Rojo Owned by the same folk as La Puerta Roja (see p74) round the corner, El Banco Rojo is a smoky joint with an affordable range of kebabs, sandwiches, burgers and empanadas. The kofta de cordero is stuffed full of meaty goodness, onion and spice and is best when dipped in a pot of home-made houmous. Check the chalkboard outside for the sandwich and taco of the week. Bolívar 914 (4361 3177/www. facebook.com/elbancorojo). La Cresta Casa de Spiedo Wraps are the name of the game at British-Argentinian owned La Cresta. Options include the Bombay (rice pilaf, mango chutney, coriander and rocket) or Mexican-style Bandido (black beans, guacamole, barbecue sauce, hot sauce and lettuce) which come with either crispy chicken straight off the rotisserie or a juicy hunk of beef. There are also a range of saliva-inducing hamburgers on home-made buns, healthy, colourful salads and a daily evening special. Bulnes 829 (4864 4417/www. facebook.com/lacrestacasade spiedo). I Love Arepa This tiny Congreso spot sells Colombian arepas to go filled with the likes of shredded meat, cheese, avocado and plantain, with most selling for the more than reasonable price of AR$30. Add an order of patacones (twice-fried plantains) or try a bandeja paisa (Colombia’s answer to the full English breakfast) for an even heartier meal. Rodríguez Peña 33 (4381 1047/ www.facebook.com/ilovearepa).

Restaurants Time Out Insidersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15 41

cognoscenti. Pan y Arte stands out as perhaps the only producer of Mendozan cooking in town, with pizza al campo mendocino – a smoky-crusted version with tomatoes, herbs and a fresh, tangy farmer’s cheese – among the pick of the pizzas. The service is friendly, and the regional foods shop and changing roster of artwork by locals, theatre and frequent live music keep the place lively. There’s also a terrace for special events and outdoor seating. Avenida Boedo 880, entre Estados Aramburu Bis Unidos y Carlos Calvo (4932 4299/ The second instalment from www.panyarte.com.ar). Subte E, Gonzalo Aramburu (of the Boedo/bus 56, 75, 86, 115. great Aramburu Open 8am-midnight restaurant, see p40), Bis daily. Main courses $$. sets the tone for a new Wine Time Credit AmEx, MC, V. kind of simple yet Time Out’s top picks for Map D1. contemporary vino include Animal’s Argentinian bistro. The malbec, Amalaya’s menu focuses on local torrontés and Selbar’s seasonal ingredients assemblage. featuring daily specials and inventive house favourites (like tartar, ribeye and arroz con leche), ARGENTINIAN – MODERN while Argentina’s top sommelier, Le Grill Agustina de Alba, carefully curates the While traditional local steakhouses spectacular wine list. Argentinian flourish in BA, not many spots have products and kitchen equipment fill the mastered modern parrilla food. bright open space, with penguin Overlooking the beautiful Puente de la shaped pitchers, spices, bottles of olive Mujer bridge in Puerto Madero, Le oil, fresh baked breads, aperitif bottles Grill offers a unique spin on steak – it’s and shelves stacked with a range of the only restaurant in the city to serve local wines. dry aged beef. Grass fed Hereford and Humberto 1˚ 1207, y Salta (4304 Aberdeen Angus cattle are locally 5697/www.aramburubis.com). Subte C, sourced from the Tandil countryside, San Juan/bus 10, 17, 23, 39, 45, 51, and every cut is aged in a climate 60, 67, 70, 79, 91, 96, 98, 168. Open controlled room located underneath the 12.30-3.30pm; 8.30-11.30pm Mon-Sat. restaurant for at least 28 days. Main courses $$. No credit cards. Navigating the large menu may be a Map B3. challenge, but start with an elaborate picada, a charcuterie platter of wonderful cheese and cured meats, before tucking into goat’s sweetbreads, ARGENTINIAN – TRADITIONAL egg with confit of mushrooms, and the Pan y Arte house speciality, a dry aged T-Bone In the last few years, Boedo has steak. Wine lovers rejoice: the become a hotspot for the food and art impressive cellar boasts a selection of over 3,000 bottles, and an exclusive private room for wine tastings. Avenida Alicia Moreau de Justo 876 (4331 0454/legrill.com.ar/eng). Subte A, Plaza de Mayo/bus 64, 74. Open 12.30-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Fri; 7pm-1am Sat; 12.30-3pm, 7pmmidnight Sun. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B5.

Restaurants

that draws food-lovers out to the rather neglected neighbourhood, and helped Aramburu achieve a respectable 14th place on Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2014. Salta 1050, y Humberto 1˚ (4305 0439/www.arambururesto.com). Subte C, San Juan or E, San José/bus 9, 10, 12, 39, 45, 51 53, 59, 60, 67, 70, 102, 126, 154, 168, 195. Open 8.30pmmidnight Tue-Sat. Set menu AR$550. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B3.

TOP TIP!

Puerto Madero

Boedo

Elena (see p44)

42 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15

i Central Market This Puerto Madero multispace is perhaps the only place in Buenos Aires where you can indulge in a five-star meal at a luxury restaurant and get your grocery shopping done all in one space. This spot gracefully combines an ice-cream shop, deli, bakery, café and restaurant in one fell swoop, and is as much a feast for the eyes as it is for the stomach. Quality is the name of the game at i Central (the ‘i’ pronounced ‘eee’, meaning ‘to eat’ in Mapuche), and whatever you go for, it’s guaranteed to be fresh and additive-free. Sit by the restaurant’s long glass windows, watching the world of Puerto Madero rollerskate by while tucking into a ribeye steak. The original branch, i Fresh Market, is just up the way at

Restaurants Time Out Insidersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15 43

EMILY ANNE EPSTEIN

Recoleta and Barrio Norte ARGENTINIAN – TRADITIONAL

Restaurants

Cumaná Cumaná is the kind of restaurant that makes you feel hungry as soon as you walk in the door. Surrender to the tantalising aromas, settle in at one of the rustic tables, and order some of the hearty, regional cuisine. Here’s your chance to try locro (a thick Argentinian stew), home-made empanadas, Argentinian-style tamales and lovely local wine. With reasonably priced food served piping hot from the horno de barro – a domed adobe oven used in the north of Argentina – this country kitchen is hard to beat. Popularity like this comes at a cost: be prepared to queue for around an hour at weekends, when the place fills up with a young, fun crowd. Rodríguez Peña 1149, entre Avenida Santa Fe y Arenales, Recoleta (4813 9207). Subte D, Callao/bus 39, 60, 108, 109, 110, 111, 124, 152. Open noon-midnight daily. Main courses $. No credit cards. Map E5. !

Sudestada (see p58)

Azucena Villaflor and Olga Cosettini. Pierina Dealessi, y Macacha Güemes, Dique 4, Puerto Madero Este (5775 0330/www.icentralmarket.com.ar). Bus 4, 7. Open 8am-midnight daily. Main courses $$ in the restaurant; $ in the deli and tearoom. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B6. El Mercado Loved, lauded and occasionally criticised, El Mercado tends to split opinions. But no one can deny that Philippe Starck was at his most inspired when he put El Mercado together: glittered portraits of local pop idol Sandro, Maradona and Che Guevara sit effortlessly against a collection of porcelain toy soldiers and judiciously selected lighting shines perfectly over the wooden tables and chairs. The centre piece is an open-air parrilla, which grills choice cuts like a 17 oz. flank steak. Paired with grilled mushrooms, baby potatoes and poached egg, it makes for a perfect meal for two. You haven’t tried the full spectrum of empanadas until you’ve tried El Mercado’s lamb empanada. Although two empanadas here may cost the same as a dozen elsewhere, hey, you’re only in Argentina, and for that matter, Faena, once. Faena Hotel Buenos Aires, Martha

Salotti 445, Dique 2 (4010 9200/www. faenahotelanduniverse.com). Subte B, LN Alem/bus 2, 111, 130. Open 7am-1am daily. Main courses $$$$. Lunch AR$290. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B5. JAPANESE

Osaka Not content with wowing solely Palermo diners, this uber-stylish Peruvian-Japanese restaurant opened another branch next to Puerto Madero’s trendy Faena Arts Centre (see p126). The samurai suit of armour is a quirky touch to the decor, but otherwise it’s pure, sleek minimalism. Sit by the bar, at one of the lacquered wood tables, or on the terrace outside and order the tiraditos, creative sushi rolls, or the excellent degustación de ceviches. The cocktails are arguably the best BA has to offer. Try the Cucumber del Pacífico (gin, saké, cucumber, pineapple and lychee), the most refreshing concoction Time Out’s ever gulped down in one. Juana Manso 1164, y Azucena Villaflor (5352 0404/www.osaka.com.pe). Bus 2, 4, 20, 62, 64, 103. Open 12.30-4pm, 8pm-12.30am Mon-Thu, Sun; 8pm-1am Fri, Sat. Main courses $$$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B5. Other location Soler 5608, Palermo (4775 6964).

44 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15

theme, and there are sushi and sashimi options for a lighter meal. There’s a lounge-like ambience to this space, replete with low sofas and glowing candles. An extensive wine list includes good options by the glass – just as well, since the prices weigh in at the upper end of the scale. Cocktails, both classic and original, will quench your thirst. Try the Sushi Mary – a Japanese take on the bloody mary with saké and wasabi – served with a pretty little sushi roll. Libertad 1161, entre Avenida Santa Fe y Arenales, Recoleta (4811 1108/ www.granbardanzon.com.ar). Subte D, Tribunales/bus 39, 70, 75, 100, 102. Open Restaurant 7pm-1am Mon-Fri; 7pm-1.30am Sat, Sun. Bar from 7pm daily. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. A

Tarquino Named after the daddy of Argentinian meat (Tarquino was the first bull brought from the Scottish highlands to the Argentinian pampas), this gourmet restaurant is an elegant homage to its mother country. From the llama textile walls to the smooth leather tabletops, everything was hand-picked from artisans across the country, but the ARGENTINIAN – MODERN pièce de résistance is the 70-year-old Elena ficus tree, sprouting through the Being Felix de Alzaga’s beloved wife restaurant’s glass ceiling. Showing off Elena can’t have been bad. The the skills he picked up at Spain’s opulent Louis XIII-style La Mansión internationally acclaimed El Bulli (now part of the Four Seasons Hotel, restaurant, head chef Dante Liporaci see p154) was built for her in 1920, lets his imagination run wild with and 92 years later, the hotel restaurant delightfully quirky dishes such as has been named in her honour. provolone and onion ‘pizza’ – a creamy Despite belonging to one of Buenos foam accompanied by a teaspoon of Aires’s fanciest hotels, the tone is olive jelly. Can’t get enough? Enquire refreshingly unpretentious: diners are about a room at the boutique hotel encouraged to walk through the open upstairs, Hub Porteño (see p154), and kitchen to enter the restaurant, and you can come here every night. the marble butcher’s table and glass Rodríguez Peña 1967, y Posadas, dry-ageing case are on display just Recoleta (6091 2160/www.tarquino steps away from the tables. Top chef restaurante.com.ar). Bus 39, 60, 61, Juan Gaffuri dishes up the likes of 93, 100, 124, 129. Open glazed pork belly and 12.30-2.30pm, 8-11.30pm Argentinian beef, while Mon-Sat. Main sommelier Sebastián courses $$$$. Lunch Maggi matches wine to Maté Bars AR$190. Credit AmEx, each dish. The Order a maté and plate MC, V. Map E5. A charcuterie platters, of bizcochos at restaupiled high with tangy rants Las Cabras (see FRENCH cheeses and finely sliced p47) and La Hormiga Sirop Folie meats, are the (see p34). There are surprisingly especialidad de la casa, as few sophisticated is the home-made Sicilian restaurants in posh Recoleta, but ice-cream branded Dolce Morte Sirop Folie is one of them, set in a (sweet death). Parisian-style alleyway – a fantastic Posadas 1086/88, y Avenida 9 de Julio, place for al fresco dining. A compact Recoleta (4321 1748). Bus 70, 93, set of dishes includes braised beef ribs 100, 101, 106, 124. Open 7-11am, in malbec, and for dessert, 12.30-3.30pm, 7pm-1am daily. Main courses $$$$. Lunch AR$225. Credit chocolatísima – a sinful cake laden with three types of Belgian chocolate and AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. dulce de leche. Beautifully decorated, with charming interior touches and plenty of light, the place is an ideal !Gran Bar Danzón The contemporary, cosmopolitan menu spot for lunch or afternoon tea; and at this resto-bar includes only the most equally popular are the weekend brunches (AR$460 for two) which luxurious, and sometimes exotic, ingredients: grilled lobster over banana include salmon, excellent cheeses, scrambled eggs, home-made chips and, blintzes, salmon ceviche with chicha of course, champagne. morada (purple corn) sorbet, veal Unit 12, Vicente López 1661, y sweetbreads – and those are just the starters. Main courses like herb-crusted Montevideo, Recoleta (4813 5900/www. siroprestaurant.com). Bus 37, 67, 75. rack of lamb and home-made prawn linguini in a saffron broth continue the Open 8pm-midnight Tue-Sat;

TOP TIP!

KEVIN VAUGHN

Bus 12, 17, 60, 93, 106, 108, 110. Open noon-3.30pm, 8pm-midnight daily. Main courses $$. Credit MC, V. Map E5. SPANISH

Restaurants

Oviedo Oviedo has a bit of a clubbish atmosphere and is a favourite with businessmen and political hacks. But never mind the clientele. Here, classic Iberian dishes are prepared with great care and attention to detail. Tortilla a la española, grilled chipirones, baked clams and oven-baked white fish are savoury reminders of the old country, each one faithful to tradition but still special in its own right. For locally sourced fish, try the bacalao (cod), caught in Mar del Plata. The staff is of the old-fashioned variety: attentive, professional gentlemen in bow ties, while the wine list is one of BA’s best. Beruti 2602, y Ecuador, Barrio Norte (4822 5415/www.oviedoresto.com.ar). Subte D, Pueyrredón/bus 12, 64, 152. Open noon-midnight Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E4.

Palermo AMERICAN

MASA Club de Tacos

Recommended New Mexico

Ask an Argentinian to sample a habanero- or jalapeño-infused hot sauce and you’ll see why Mexican cuisine hasn’t always got along with the local palate. However, a new wave of Mexican restaurants is proving there’s room in Buenos Aires yet for a bit of spice. With burritos weighing half a kilo, artisanal beer and good value prices to boot, newly opened DF Donkey and Friends (Thames 1889, 4833 5187) is here to stay. The California-style burritos are simple, to ensure freshness and quality in every dish; gringos will find solace in the hearty breakfast burritos and selection of hot sauces. Flanked by coffee experts Lattente (see p27) and the graffiti-splattered Post St Bar (Thames 1885), DF is in very good company. Down the road is Real Revolución (Honduras 5143, 2073 9902), which offers a hefty selection of burritos, as well as other classics like chile relleno and mole poblano, along with Mexican drinks like the spicy michelada. Mexican cuisine gets its first closed-door incarnation at MASA Club de Tacos (mobile 11 3535 9093, masamakestacos.com). The owners, North Americans Kevin and Ely, start the night with home-made chips and salsa, while corn tortillas made on-site are given a bit of a twist, with fillings including Asian-inspired flavours like Korean-style beef. A generous portion of rice and beans and artisanal beer make the set menu a steal at AR$120. Meanwhile, one of the original taco joints, La Fábrica del Taco (see p62), has taken its success to a new locale in Las Cañitas, with the same flavours and convivial atmosphere of the original. Last but not least, San Telmo’s Che Taco (Balcarce 873, 4361 1707, www.chetaco.com.ar) gets the stamp of approval from locals who know how to handle their spice, with hard to come by Mexican favourites like sopes, chilaquiles and taquitos on the menu, and plenty of aguas frescas to wash it all down.

11am-5pm Sun. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5. INDIAN

Tandoor One of very few Indian restaurants in BA, Tandoor has happily satisfied many a craving for food from the subcontinent. The restaurant’s modern, authentic dishes are enhanced by an airy environment, which makes eating here a pleasure. Spices are imported from India, as are the chefs and the tandoor oven. As well as classics like chicken tikka masala, the menu includes several tasty lamb dishes. Laprida 1293, y Charcas, Barrio Norte (4821 3676/www.tandoor.com.ar). Subte D, Agüero/bus 12, 39, 92, 111, 118, 140, 152, 188, 194. Open noon-4pm, 8pm-midnight Mon-Fri; 8pm-1am Sat; 8pm-midnight Sun.

Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E4. V ITALIAN

Piola With locations scattered across the Americas, this Treviso-born pizzeria chain has gourmet pie-tossing down to a science: roll the thinnest crust possible, top with fresh greens and sharp cheeses, and serve in a slick space. Salads and authentic pasta are on the menu too, but your best bet is a signature pizza – the smoked salmon and rocket-topped Rimini, or the leafy Praga, a white pizza piled with rocket, chicken and parmesan shavings. Libertad 1078, y Avenida Santa Fe, Recoleta (4812 0690/www.piola.it). Bus 39, 111, 140. Open noon-2am Mon-Fri; 7pm-3am Sat; 7pm-2am Sun. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5.

46 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15

Other location Gorriti 5751, Palermo (4777 3698). PERUVIAN

NEW La Causa Nikkei In a city full of cheap and expensive Peruvian restaurants, recently opened La Causa Nikkei fills a gap by serving up well-priced Peruvian fusion food in the heart of Recoleta. The decoration is modern and industrial with an open kitchen, a large patio, booth seating and shelves stacked with large, multi-coloured bottles. Food is mainly Peruvian, the lomo salteado, ají de gallina, and seco de carne all come in large portions while there’s a long list of Japanese sushi fusion specials and ceviches for those on a healthier diet. Brisk service and well-executed cocktails make this a fine option. Avenida Callao 1290, y Juncal, Recoleta (5218 0900/www.lacausanikkei.com).

Burger Joint Bringing food porn to the burger scene, BJ’s perfectly cooked burgers, like the spicy Mexican or Jamaican, hand cut French fries and home-made curried ketchup are favourites of expats and locals. Owner Pierre Chacra pleases Palermo crowds with a cool and kitsch spot where diners take their burger-and-fries-induced creativity to the walls, writing and drawing messages alongside movie posters and pop culture references. Jorge Luis Borges 1766, y Costa Rica (4833 5151/www.burgerjoint.com.ar). Bus 36, 39, 55. Open noon-midnight daily. Main courses $. No credit cards. Map G3. ! Dean & Dennys Providing fast food with a conscience, Dean & Dennys hits all today’s buzz words. It’s eco-friendly with recycled materials used in the decor, social media savvy thanks to its heavy use of Facebook, Twitter and Instagram, vegetarian-friendly with a doubledecker mushroom-based mush burger and even pet-friendly to boot, with ‘dog parking’ on-site and a dedicated menu for pooches. Hot dogs and salads are other stomach fillers, while the milkshakes are the absolute bomb. Malabia 1591, y Honduras (4834 6101/www.facebook.com/ deananddennys). Bus 15, 36, 39, 55, 57, 106, 110, 140, 151. Open noon-1am daily. Main courses $. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. Other location Junín 1721, Recoleta (4834 6101). Muu Lechería This diner-style café brings Americana to Palermo with its hot dogs, cupcakes and cheery interior. The Chubby Checker burger comes

ARGENTINIAN – TRADITIONAL

Las Cabras Meat-lovers have been queuing up to get tables at this parrilla since it opened. It’s been a great success in the overcrowded Palermo eating scene for the simple reason that it serves good quality food, and lots of it. The prices may seem high, but considering the immense portion sizes, this parrilla offers the most bang for your buck. The mixed grill has enough meat for three and includes two types of chorizo and all the offal you can imagine. Vegetarians are catered for too, and even the wine list ticks the value-for-money box. Colouring crayons are provided so that you or your children can doodle away on the paper tablecloths. With all this to offer, this place is popular: if you’re

going at the weekend, get there before 9.30pm or forget it. Fitz Roy 1795, y El Salvador (4774 5617). Subte D, Palermo/bus 39, 93, 108, 111, 140, 151, 168. Open noon-1am daily. Main courses $$. No credit cards. Map H2. !

Restaurants

with gruyère, onion rings and barbecue sauce, but there are also substantial salads for those hankering after something lighter. The milkshakes are unmissable and breakfast choices include pancakes and French toast. While the prices aren’t quite out of the 1950s, Muu is an original and family-friendly option. Armenia 1810, entre Nicaragua y Costa Rica (4831 3168/www.mundo muu.com.ar). Bus 15, 39. Open 8.30am-2am daily. Main courses $. Credit AmEx, MC. Map G3.

La Cabrera Named one of Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants of 2014, and listed in just about every guidebook and blog, it’s safe to say La Cabrera is a reliable place to experience a traditional Argentinian parrilla. On an attractive corner site that used to be a general store, professional staff serve extra-large portions of expertly prepared meat. Standouts include flank steak, steak-sized sweetbreads and stuffed pork shoulder. Though traditional to its core, La Cabrera infuses some twists to its side dishes, such as the quail egg potato salad. Don’t order too much: half portions will be fine for even the hungriest, especially as every cut of beef comes with a smattering of sides, like mashed potatoes and pumpkin. The sister restaurants, La Cabrera Norte and La Cabrera Boutique, have helped cut waiting times, but now more than ever, a reservation is advised. Cabrera 5127/5099, y Thames (4832 5754/www.parrillalacabrera.com.ar).

Lo de Jesús (see p48)

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15 47

Restaurants Crizia (see 50)

Bus 39, 55, 108, 140. Open 12.30-4.30pm, 8.30pm-midnight Mon-Fri; 8.30-1am Sat, Sun. Main courses $$$. Lunch AR$109. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. Other location Cabrera 5065, Palermo (4832 2259). !Don Julio Don Julio doesn’t mess with parrilla classics; the buzzing Palermo grill just does them to perfection. A basket of fresh bread and chimichurri will warm up your appetite before you pick out your favourite cut of meat from the excellent selection (the lomo and entraña are exquisite). And thanks to owner Pablo, who sends his waiters to wine school, your server will know just how to help you choose the malbec or cabernet that best complements your beef. For vegetarians, a glass of wine will equally complement a hearty plate of pumpkin-stuffed sorrentinos. The decor is rustic-chic, and the leather tablecloths and exposed brick walls stacked with signed wine bottles add to the warm atmosphere. Guatemala 4691, y Gurruchaga (4831 9564/www.parilladonjulio.com. ar). Bus 15, 34, 36, 39, 55, 57, 110. Open noon-4pm, 7.30pm-1am daily. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. La Dorita In this parrilla kitted out with junk chandeliers and pop-art mixed media,

families rub elbows with local celebs. But the A-list star here is the meat. A tabla de carnes (three beef cuts of your choice) arrives sizzling in its own juices. Grilled provoleta cheese – crisp on the outside, oozing within – and fried potatoes with onion make the perfect side dishes. The wine list is short but knowing, with many of the quality mid-range malbecs available in half-litre jugs. Humboldt 1892, y Costa Rica (4776 5653/www.parrillaladorita.com.ar). Bus 39, 93, 108. Open 12.30pm-1am Sun-Thu; noon-2am Fri, Sat. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$88-$98. Credit MC. Map H3.

fine choices. While the interior is certainly warm and inviting, on balmier nights the outdoor seating is definitely worth taking advantage of. Gurruchaga 1406, y Cabrera (4831 1961/www.lodejesus.com.ar). Bus 39. Open noon-4pm, 7.30pm-1am daily. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$79. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

Minga As a steakhouse with trendy boutiques and cafés for neighbours, it’s only fitting that Minga is elegantly outfitted with beige, glass and distressed wood furnishings. Large slabs of steak are still the star, but are presented on elegant cutting boards Lo de Jesús with tiny saucers of This upmarket parrilla chimichurri and garlic. began life in 1953 as a Grab a slice Accompaniments like grocery store-cum-bar In a hurry? Do like the run by a Spaniard called locals and devour a slice grilled goat’s cheese Don Jesús Pernas. Since of cheesy pizza standing with rocket and a then, the barrio’s at the bar of one of BA’s creamy potato gratin are presented just as mechanics and many iconic beautifully in individual construction workers pizzerias. cast iron skillets. Minga have been replaced by pushes the boundaries of the shopkeepers and tourists, and Perna’s meat sandwiches by juicy cuts traditional parrilla, but purists need not despair: the menu still offers of beef. And while the decor has been traditional Argentinian staples. subtly and stylishly modernised, the Costa Rica 4528, entre Armenia y black and white chequered floor and Malabia (4833 5775/www. wood panelling have been retained. mingaparrilla.com.ar). Bus 39, 168. The menu is fittingly old school but Open from 10am daily. Main impeccable; ojo de bife al malbec, courses $$. Lunch AR$105. Credit caprese salad and grilled pacú (a fish AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. from the Paraná river) are all

48 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15

TOP TIP!

Miranda This fashionable contemporary parrilla is a steakhouse for the trend-conscious carnivore: instead of chips or mashed potatoes, the solomillo de cerdo (pork loin) and Patagonian lamb come with caramelised vegetables and fruits. The Jacinta salad, tossed with grilled chicken and squash, and the polenta, provoleta cheese and vegetable stack are other highly recommendable dishes on offer. This parrilla’s quality and creativity have made it a hit both with tourists and locals. Costa Rica 5602, y Fitz Roy (4771 4255/www.parrillamiranda.com). Bus 39, 140, 151, 168. Open 9am-1am Mon-Thu, Sun; 9am-2am Fri, Sat. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$95-$119. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. Perón Perón Only in Argentina would anyone dream up a restaurant like Perón Perón: an all-guns-blazing tribute to Argentina’s original power couple and the working class Peronist movement. Historic photos, political graffiti and antiques from the 1940s and 1950s cover every inch of the place, and taking centre stage is an Evita shrine. The menu too is peppered with cheeky political references; the house wine has a picture of Perón himself on it and even the beer here is Peronist. Both make for a refreshing way to wash down a plate of freshly-fried ossobuco empanadas. Stick around long enough and you’re bound to hear the Peronist march

Restaurants

ROSIE HILDER

your besties (the elegant ones that dress and behave well, that is). If you’re in the mood for a date night, the dining room’s soft lighting and mellow tunes keep things thoroughly romantic, making it an ideal spot to bring someone special (as an added bonus, Crizia’s oyster bar is also a standout). The cuisine here – all impeccably presented – is MediterraneanArgentinian fusion, with a splash of oriental. The menu features plenty of tempting seafood, but for a meal to warm you up on a cold night, try the braised Patagonian lamb followed by warm chocolate soufflé with white chocolate sauce. Gorriti 5143, entre Uriarte y Thames (4831 4979/www.crizia.com.ar). Bus 34, 39, 55, 108, 140, 151, 166, 168. Open 7.30pm-1am Mon-Sat. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. A

restaurant Paraje Arévalo (see p51) have created another hit. This time chef Estefanía di Benedetto (wo)mans the stove, so to speak, cooking up a menu of simple rustic dishes from the open kitchen. Pretty much anything that comes out of the wood fired oven is superb, especially the juicy, roasted herbed chicken served with a crackling crispy skin and presented atop a pillowy knoll of potato purée. These gourmet offerings contrast nicely with the unique, minimalist, Scandinavianesque surroundings. Arévalo 2061, y Soler (4773 6119/ www.localrestaurant.com.ar). Subte D, Ministro Carranza/bus 39, 41, 57, 60, 67, 68, 111, 152, 161, 168, 194. Open from 8pm Tue-Sat; 1-3.30pm Sun. Main courses $$. No credit cards. Map H3.

Museo Evita Restaurante Museum restaurants can be hit or miss, but the lunch experience at Museo Janio Evita’s restaurant is a far cry from Just across the road from Plaza standing in a cafeteria-style queue for Armenia, replete with outdoor seating and a huge, multi-tiered interior, Janio is overpriced bottled water and grilled panini. Housed in the same ritzy located in the equivalent of the executive corner office of Palermo Soho. antique residence that once served as a A block that sees countless tourists and women’s shelter run by Eva Perón’s locals on a daily basis has to have a little foundation, the restaurant offers two something for everyone, and Janio, (with appealing venues – a black-and-white dishes like beef stir-fry, lasagne, tiled courtyard and the cosy-chic coconut curry and milanesa on dining room, decorated with its menu) certainly does. tasteful Evita Lunch specials are memorabilia. The rocket well-priced for the salad with figs, brie, Read on neighbourhood, but Janio Website www.guiaoleo. artichoke and jamón has diners at just about crudo makes for a com.ar is the every hour of the day sensational and TripAdvisor of the BA enjoying a generous glass sophisticated lunch. The food scene. of malbec and watching dinner menu tends Palermo go by. towards heartier dishes like Malabia 1805, y Costa Rica (4833 risotto, pastas and steaks. On 6540/www.janiorestaurant.com). Bus balmier nights on the patio, a 15, 36, 39, 55, 57, 106, 110, 111, passionfruit mousse and a generous 140, 141, 151, 160, 168. Open glass of malbec are well worth 8am-1am Sun-Thu; 8am-4am Fri, Sat. lingering over. You can also pick up Main courses $$$. Lunch AR$69. souvenirs, from dedicated bottles of Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. wine to Evita T-shirts, in the museum’s excellent shop. Leopoldo Juan María Gutiérrez 3926, y ‘Eat and enjoy!’ booms owner Javier República de la India (4800 1599/www. Cainzos when he describes his museoevitaresto.com). Subte D, Plaza ambitions for Leopoldo, the uberItalia/bus 10, 15, 108, 110. Open modern restaurant close to the grounds 9am-midnight Mon-Sat; 9am-7pm Sun. of the Jardín Zoológico. This spot, Main courses $$. Lunch AR$95. tucked away in Palermo Chico, is a Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G4. V place to see and be seen: a popular hangout for local models and NC Freud & Fahler celebrities to compare notes while There’s a real neighbourhood feeling to entrepreneurs pull out iced champagne this fine restaurant and pâtisserie. Set from their buckets. But the big success on a quiet corner with plenty of good behind Leopoldo lies in the kitchen: wines (try the Animal chardonnay) and Diego Gera, a member of the revered fresh bread, it makes for an elegant Académie Culinaire de France, serves spot for lunch or a night out. An up exotic dishes of luxurious meats impressive 1950s flip clock from an like lamb and duck, while at the bar, Italian train station hanging on the star barman Carlo Conti shakes and wall is just one example of the stirs delicious cocktails. restaurant’s semi-industrial 1950s aesthetic, with a straightforward decor Cerviño 3732, entre República Árabe of white marble tabletops and Siria y Ugarteche (4805 5576). Bus low-hanging bubble lamps. Stop by for 10, 37, 41, 57, 59, 60, 128. Open the wickedly good torta húmeda de 7pm-3am Tue-Sat. Main courses chocolate amargo in the afternoon, or $$$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G4. treat yourself to the exotic dishes inspired by chef and owner Pablo Local Lykan’s travels. The Patagonian lamb On a quiet corner of Palermo Hollywood, away from the trendy bars, proves that beef isn’t the only meat worth sampling in Argentina. the talented culinary duo behind novel

TOP TIP!

Perón Perón (see p48)

blasting from the jukebox, with at least some customers singing and clapping along. We can’t imagine a Maggie Thatcher themed restaurant having quite the same following. Carranza 2225, entre Paraguay y Guatemala (4777 6194). Subte D, Ministro Carranza/bus 12, 15, 29, 39, 41, 55, 57, 60, 67, 93, 108, 111. Open 6pm-1am Mon-Fri; 7pm-2am Sat. Main courses $. No credit cards. Map H3. El Preferido de Palermo Regarded as a site of historical interest by the city of Buenos Aires, this is a no-frills, highly authentic restaurant set within a traditional grocery store. Argentinian comfort foods are favourites here; plates like the fabada asturiana (white beans, chorizo sausage and bacon), and the cazuela de mariscos a la provenzal (seafood stew) are not likely to be updated anytime soon. Sip on excellent local wine and graze on assorted Spanish tapas while you make a mental note to read Borges in the original, now that you’ve dined on the corner where the author claims that Buenos Aires began. Guatemala 4801, y Jorge Luis Borges (4774 6585). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 34, 36, 39, 160. Open noon-4pm,

8pm-midnight Mon-Sat. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. ARGENTINIAN – MODERN

Casa Cruz Long standing Casa Cruz has relaunched and reloaded under the careful eye of Aldo Graziani, of popular joints Aldo’s Vinoteca (see p36) and BeBop (see p140), serving a modern take on porteño classics with speciality house cocktails, impressive wines, and all in a luxurious and comfortable setting. Start with sweatbreads cooked in red wine with mushrooms, and continue with the marinated skirt steak or massive milanesa napolitana. Extra tip: be sure to take lots of selfies in the impressive bathroom with its wine cava views. Uriarte 1658, y Pasaje Santa Rosa (4833 1112/www.casacruz-restaurant. com). Bus 34, 39, 55, 108, 140, 151, 166, 168. Open from 7pm Mon-Sat. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. Crizia A high-ceilinged, New York-style dining room, sophisticated cocktails and a long oyster bar set the scene for a Sex and the City-style get-together with

50 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15

!Paraje Arévalo Cited as many a restaurant reviewer’s favourite spot, Paraje Arévalo has certainly gained a glowing reputation among Buenos Aires’s food-lovers. It’s no surprise really, seeing as chefowners Matías Kyrizis and partner Estefanía di Benedetto met during their stint at the Michelin-starred Fat Duck in the UK. They certainly learnt a thing or two, as the tasting menus (choose from six to ten courses) feature innovative dishes such as pepper and coriander crusted sirloin and salmon cooked at 55 degrees in beetroot juice. As for the decor, it’s charmingly understated: the tiled black and white floor, crisp white linen tablecloths, blackboard menu and vintage bike propped against the wall give the place a cosy, unpretentious feel, while the knowledgeable and friendly staff make sure every customer is extremely well looked after. Arévalo 1502, y Cabrera (4775 7759/ www.parejaarevalo.com). Bus 39, 93, 108, 111, 140, 151, 168. Open from 8pm Tue-Sat; 1-3pm Sun. Tasting menus $$$$. Credit MC. Map H2.

NEW PerSe Chef Emiliano Di Nisi – who previously wowed the crowds at Tô (see p56) – has brought his signature flair to this sophisticated restaurant. The decor is sleek and contemporary, and the menu has a range of classic Argentinian dishes with a modern twist. The fresh fish and other under-the-sea wonders are definite highlights. Come at lunch for three delightful courses and a glass of wine for just AR$170, or don your glad rags and prop up the bar as you sip one of Gonzalo Cabado’s famed cocktails. The Buena Vida, which includes Barcardi, Martini, lime juice and egg white is particularly good, and won the regional heat of the Barcadi Legacy Global Cocktail Competition in May 2014. Honduras 5815, y Carranza (4773 7524/www.perserestaurant.com). Bus 39, 57, 93, 108, 111, 140, 151, 166, 168. Open noon-3pm Mon-Sat; 8pm-midnight Tue-Thu; 8pm-1am Fri, Sat. Main courses $$$. Lunch AR$140-$170. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2. A

Restaurants

Cabrera 5300, y Godoy Cruz (4771 3652). Bus 34, 39, 55, 93, 108, 111, 140. Open 12.30-3.30pm, 8.30pmmidnight Mon-Thu; 12.30-3.30pm, 8.30pm-1am Sat. Pastelería 11.30am8pm Mon-Fri. Main courses $$$. Lunch AR$150. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

!Las Pizarras Tucked away in a quiet part of Palermo, this tiny restaurant is almost invisible from the outside, but once inside the black cast iron doors, there’s a warm, glowing ambience, buzzing with the low hum of conversation and clinking wine glasses. This stylish but laid-back restaurant has no menu, just

Recommended Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants 2014

In the second version of Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants (www. theworlds50best.com/latinamerica), Argentina was once again the country that claimed the most spots in the ranking, winning 12 places in total, 11 of those in Buenos Aires. Germán Martitegui’s stylish Tegui (see p52) was the only Argentinian restaurant to crack the top ten, remaining in last year’s position of number nine. Close behind at number 14, Aramburu (see p40) climbed 15 places since 2013. One former secret that has risen in popularity since its appearance in the top 50 in 2013, is Fernando Rivarola’s El Baqueano (see p36). This place doesn’t serve beef – a revolution in itself in the land of the cow – but instead a variety of meats native to Argentina. El Baqueano jumped a whopping 21 places from number 39 to 18, winning the award for Highest Climber. The renowned chef of recently revamped Chila (Avenida Alicia Moreau de Justo 1160, www.chilaweb.com.ar), Soledad Nardelli, was the only female Argentinian chef on the list, and her modern restaurant was the sole establishment in upmarket Puerto Madero to make an appearance. Other stars were hotel restaurants Tomo 1 (see p30) – which came in at number 23 – and the winner of the Highest New Entry award, Tarquino (see p44) at number 16. Judges highlighted the porteño gourmet style of cooking at the former, and the sequence of the cow – where diners devour the whole animal – at the latter. Those staying at the Four Seasons Hotel (see p154) can enjoy being in the company of the number 48 spot, Elena (see p44). The only restaurant outside of the capital to make the cut, Mendoza’s Francis Mallmann 1884, was on the list for the second time. Also holding strong onto their spots were Fernando Trocca’s Sucre (see p66), Martín Molteni’s Pura Tierra (see p65) and Martín Rebaudino’s Oviedo (see p46). The chefs of the latter two restaurants recently opened new ventures, Marieta (see p150) and Roux (see p64), respectively. Beef lovers will be pleased to know that the quintessential parrilla La Cabrera (see p47) once again made the cut. Although it was the Peruvians who took the crown for the top spot with Central in Lima, Argentina is hoping a piece of Peru’s success will come its way next year with the arrival of La Mar in Buenos Aires. The Lima restaurant was ranked at number 15 this year, and as Time Out went to print was opening a branch in Palermo (Arévalo 2024, www. lamarcebicheria.com). Get in there quick, before word gets out. Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15 51

ADRIEN DE BONTIN

Fri, Sat. Main courses $$$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. BRAZILIAN

Restaurants

Boteco do Brasil So many Brazilian restaurants outside of Brazil get it wrong, either serving up triple-fried heart attacks on a plate or charging you the equivalent of an airfare to Rio for a caipirinha. Boteco do Brasil has avoided all those pitfalls, making it the top-reigning Brazilian spot in Buenos Aires. Its good-value menu serves a stunning rendition of the Brazilian national dish, feijoada, and seafood lovers will rejoice with the coconutty bobó de camarão and flaky empadinha de camarão, both made with quality prawns. Its success has allowed Boteco to relocate to a larger, brighter space adorned with colourful paintings, a beautiful terrace with cushy white benches, and a bar that serves the best caipirinhas in town. Check the Facebook page for information and updates on the fun and funky Brazilian live music nights. Honduras 5774, entre Bonpland y Carranza (3979 2970/www. botecodobrasil.com). Bus 39, 57, 93, 108, 111, 140, 151. Open 11ammidnight Tue-Sat. Main courses $. No credit cards. Map H2. !A BRITISH

Museo Evita (see p50)

a list of creative concoctions made from whatever owner and chef, Rodrigo Castilla (ex chef tournant to Gary Rhodes), has bought fresh from the market that day. Those concoctions are scrawled on huge chalkboards (pizarras) hung around the walls; sketches of ducks, corn stalks, carrots and rabbits next to the descriptions can give you a clue of the ingredients if your Spanish fails you. Although dishes are often based on Argentinian classics, this restaurant is truly one of a kind. If you are feeling adventurous, ask Rodrigo, who speaks fluent English, to order for you. Thames 2296, y Charcas (4775 0625/ www.laspizarrasbistro.com). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 10, 12. Open from 8pm Tue-Sun. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

!Tegui guests with an exclusive dining Although Tegui was ranked at number experience, compliments of head chef Germán Martitegui. A brief but nine in Latin America’s 50 Best exquisite menu changes weekly, Restaurants (www.theworlds50best. utilising whatever techniques or com) for the second year in a row, it ingredients have caught the remains discreet. Tucked chef’s fancy (sweetbreads, behind an eye-catching, fresh gnocchi and deliberately graffitied ossobuco are certainly no wall and unassuming Jugoso o cocido strangers to the menu). In black door lies Most Argentinians like the evening, you can opt Argentina’s top-rated their steak well done. If for the eight course menu restaurant. Inside is a you want the same, ask for AR$590 (AR$850 more sumptuous affair: for cocido, if not, rare with the addition of six a wine cellar spans the is jugoso. different gorgeous wines). entire front wall, forming Costa Rica 5852, entre an impressive backdrop to the Ravignani y Carranza (5291 3333/ larger-than-life ceiling. The open www.tegui.com.ar). Bus 39, 57, 93, kitchen allows diners to peer in on the 108. Open 8.30pm-12.30am Tue, Wed; catering process, and the VIP room, which borders the kitchen, presents 8.30pm-1am Thu; 8.30pm-1.30am

52 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15

TOP TIP!

Chipper For a country with 5000km of Atlantic coastline, fish is surprisingly overlooked on most Argentinian restaurant menus. Little wonder then that Buenos Aires’s first traditional fish and chips eaterie is netting a roaring trade. The owner may be Irish (there’s Guinness on the menu) and the chef Peruvian, but this is the real British deal: think flaky, deep-fried cod in a crispy batter served with thick-cut potato chips and a wedge of lemon. Add a choice of home-made dipping sauces – tartare, mushy peas, spicy curry or blue cheese – and you’ve got yourself a gourmet fishy feast. Grilled salmon and salads are healthier options, while hearty pies, beefburgers and chicken nuggets ensure pescaphobes are catered for. The nautical-style interior is a feat in itself; it’s all blue-and-white decor and shimmery tropical fish. Takeaway and delivery are offered, but you’d be wise to eat in – and fast – if you go for the delectable deep-fried ice-cream. Humboldt 1893, entre Costa Rica y El Salvador (4777 6760/www. chipperfishandchips.com). Bus 34, 39, 57, 93, 108, 111, 151, 166. Open 12.30-4pm, 7.30pm-midnight daily. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$58. Credit MC, V. Map H2. ECLECTIC

Azema Exotic Bistró Run by twinkly-eyed, amiable chef-owner Paul Jean Azema, this restaurant is a word-of-mouth wonder. Loosely themed on the cuisine of French and formerly French territories, which gives meaning to the ‘Exotic’ part of the restaurant’s name, the menu features dishes from the South Pacific, the Caribbean, various parts of Asia, and even Réunion, Azema’s native Indian

Restaurants Time Out Insidersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15 53

Restaurants

EZEQUIEL POCCARD

Ocean island. The globe-trotting cuisine means you could see a Vietnamese pho and pâté de campagne on a baguette on the same menu, and fortunately at Azema you know they’ll both be cooked just right. You can pick up a copy of BA’s French newspaper, Le Traitd’Union, while you’re there. Carranza 1875, entre Costa Rica y El Salvador (4774 4191). Bus 39, 93. Open 8.30pm-midnight Mon-Sat. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. NEW Blanch Palermo dwellers ought to be thankful this Asian-inspired tapas spot has moved from Las Cañitas to their barrio. Chef Diego ‘Tatu’ Rizzi cooks up a diverse menu of delicacies, like pork meatballs with a Thai peanut sauce, spicy potato-stuffed samosas and a tangy vegetable salad dotted with prawns. Climb upstairs to the renovated terrace to enjoy some of Blanch’s refreshing jugs of aperitifs under the stars. Come with a group (or simply a very large appetite) so you have every excuse to order as many items as possible off the menu. And with bottles of quality wine available for market prices, why shouldn’t you order a few of those as well? Carranza 2181, y Guatemala (4771 4440). Subte D, Ministro Carranza/bus 29, 39, 55, 60, 64, 93, 111, 194. Open 8pm-midnight Tue-Fri; noon-4pm, 8pm-midnight Sat, Sun. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, V. Map H3. A Fifí Almacén This large almacén and organic eaterie serves up some of the tastiest wraps in town. A standout on the menu is the Naira, a delicious goat’s cheese, caramelised onion, organic quinoa, sweetcorn and red pepper wrap that melts in the mouth, but you can’t go wrong with any combo of tasty cheeses, grilled vegetables and curried sauces. The service is perfect and the puddings even more so; go up a belt notch to make room for the pear crumble with organic dark chocolate ice-cream. Wines and beers (organic, of course) are also on the menu to refresh your palate. Not to forget, there is also 10% off your bill if you come by bike. Gorriti 4812, y Armenia (2072 4295/ www.fifialmacen.com.ar). Bus 15, 34, 39, 106, 110. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Thu; 10am-midnight Fri, Sat. Main courses $. No credit cards. Map G2.

NEW Gran Dabbang Chef Mariano Ramón and his wife Philippa Robson have created a gourmet oasis on a busy street just a few blocks away from the trendier parts of Palermo. With experience in the kitchens of Thailand, India and London, Ramón returned to his native Argentina to provide a mix of Southeast Asian, Middle Eastern and Indian cooking never seen before in Buenos Aires. While the menu changes frequently, the crunchy fried chard

Blanch

pakoras with sweet carrot chutney are a mainstay, as are the rich and flavoursome curries. The intimate setting lends itself well to a date or small group and the dishes are perfect for sharing. Scalabrini Ortiz 1543, y Honduras (4832 1186). Bus 15, 36, 39, 55, 57, 110, 140. Open 8pm-midnight Mon-Sat. Main courses $. Credit MC, V. Map G3. ! V Marathika Who would have thought that beloved Sufi café Baraka would ever serve ojo de bife and malbec? But Baraka is no more, it has now evolved into Marathika, a full-service restaurant. The semi-hippie vibe lives on in the Indian lamps hanging from the ceiling and the organic menu options, but Marathika goes where Baraka never did by serving alcohol and installing a parrilla. Organic wines and artisanal beer from Antares liven up the atmosphere and the menu offers something for everyone, with vegan and gluten-free options alongside the parrilla fare. It hasn’t completely lost its café roots, as home-made bread and pastries and breakfast and brunch are on hand as well, and there’s still the same quality the neighbourhood has come to expect from this charming

54 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15

spot. Be sure to head upstairs to the charming terrace on warmer nights. Gurruchaga 1450, entre Cabrera y Gorriti (4834 6427). Bus 15, 34, 39. Open 11am-midnight daily. Main courses $. Credit MC, V. Map G2. FRENCH

A Nos Amours This Parisian bistro – with its high windows, black-and-white photographs, vases filled with fresh flowers and French poetry books resting on each table – is a suitable spot to indulge in a romantic candlelit dinner. A large chalkboard announces the limited yet carefully chosen in-season menu, including favourites such as squash ragu, grilled octopus, risotto or fish of the day; the wine list is equally well curated, with bottles from various regions of Argentina, each hand-picked by the charismatic French owner. Tempting desserts like lemon tart make it almost obligatory to end the meal on a sweet note. Gorriti 4488, y Aráoz (4897 2072). Bus 39, 151. Open from 9pm Mon-Sat. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, V. Map G2. ITALIAN

Il Ballo del Mattone Wildly popular, family-owned Il Ballo del Mattone is just as well known for

its pasta dishes as it is for its cool, arty decor. The speciality is fusilli scarparo, a deliciously simple parmesan, tomato, garlic and basil pasta. Expect chalkboard menus, kitsch art scattered about and helpful staff. The laid-back, quirky and fiercely hardworking owners deserve the success they have garnered – and they still find the time to host art exhibitions and film screenings. Check the Facebook page for the latest news and events. Gorriti 5737, entre Carranza y Bonpland (4776 4247/www.ilballo. delmattone.com). Bus 39, 108, 111. Open noon-3am Mon-Sat. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$85 Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. ! Other location Gorriti 5950, Palermo (4776 8648). Cucina Paradiso The closest you’ll get to Italy without hopping on a plane, this cosy, part café, part restaurant has hungry punters queuing at the door. Inside, wooden tables are crammed together while shelves are stacked with top quality Italian produce ranging from celebrity chef and owner Donato de Santis’s brand of extra-virgin olive oil to bottles of imported grappa. Chefs cut fresh pasta at the counter, while food-lovers salivate over mozzarella, marinated olives and rosemary focaccia at the deli. The clinking of wine glasses, the strains of ‘O Sole Mio’, the rich aroma of Illy coffee and animated discussions enjoyed over platefuls of authentic Italian pasta (try the gnocchi with pesto and mascarpone) will provide solace to any homesick Italian. Arévalo 1538, y Cabrera (4770 9406/ www.dadonato.com). Bus 39, 168. Open 9am-8pm Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. Fornería Easily the best dining option on Plaza Armenia, this restaurant has carved out a niche for itself as a refuge from the busy fashionista thoroughfares. With its elegant French-style bar, exposed brickwork and retro-chic simplicity, Fornería attracts the laptop-affixed workaholic by day and an unaffected Palermo crowd by night. For something substantial, you can’t go wrong with a woodfired-oven pizza and eclectic salad. Although perhaps resist ordering the delicious sounding Beso Prohibido pizza (topped with plenty of cheese, garlic, olives and basil) if you’re on a date. Malabia 1825, y Costa Rica (4831 5447/www.forneria.com.ar). Bus 39, 55, 57, 111, 141, 168. Open 8am-1am daily. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$90. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. Guido’s Bar This pea-sized trattoria is the kind of place one always looks for but rarely finds in Italy. With every inch of the letterbox-red walls plastered in movie poster kitsch, featuring real Italians (Mastroianni and Caruso) alongside honorary ones (Sammy Davis Jr), Guido’s is as much an evocation of an era as it is a culture – and in 2009 was

Restaurants

the alleged meeting place of smitten South Carolina governor Mark Sanford and his local lover. There’s nothing sordid about owner Carlos’s passion for Italian food, though. The tasting menu is splendid: waiters force-feed you a parade of colourful appetisers followed by home-made pasta and dessert, until you say, ‘basta!’ República de la India 2843, entre Cabello y Gutiérrez (4802 2391). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 29, 39, 152. Open 8am-4pm, 8pm-close Mon-Fri; 8am-4pm Sat. Tasting menus evening AR$250-$300. No credit cards. Map G4. !Guido Restaurant A narrow stairway leads up to this intimate space, a little piece of Italy on a quiet street, where red and white chequered tablecloths, mismatched wall art and Italian tunes help pull the scene together. Inviting you to ‘mangia sano, mangia italiano’, the menu’s great selection of pasta, creative sauces and pizzas ensures just that: good, healthy Italian dining. The menu’s star plates include the seafood platter for two and the agnolottis stuffed with braised lamb, truffle cream and porcini mushrooms. Those tired of the typical ojo de bife and malbec combination

should try a Kobe beef burger with one of the artisanal beers available on tap for a welcome change. An excellent bar serving up classic cocktails, live music on Thursdays and Fridays and an outside patio, make this the perfect spot to enjoy a warm evening. Cerviño 3943, y República de la India (4802 1262/www.guidorestaurant. com.ar). Bus 10, 118, 161, 188. Open from 7pm Tue-Sun. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G4.

small, savvy wine list, and for dessert, be sure to save room for a decadent Nutella-laden pizza. Costa Rica 5886, entre Ravignani y Carranza (4775 0337). Subte D, Ministro Carranza/bus 39, 57, 108, 111, 168. Open 8pm-midnight Tue-Sun. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. JAPANESE

Siamo nel Forno Superb service and airy, thin-crust pizza made to order – no mean feat in Buenos Aires, where pizza can often mean thick slabs of reheated, cheese-laden dough, slapped on a countertop. At this little Palermo restaurant, you’ll only find authentic Neapolitan-style pizza, meaning chewy crusts, fresh mozzarella and a drizzling of quality olive oil. A huge brick oven in the centre of the dining room gives diners a mouth-watering view of every pizza from its inception to final product. Standouts include the Patate, a simple potato pizza, and the Spinaci, with three types of cheese and fresh spinach leaves. Specials change nightly, often with less conventional toppings like asparagus and octopus. There is a EZEQUIEL POCCARD

Lotus Neo Thai (see p68)

56 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15

Fukuro Noodle Bar Palermites are slurping up the home-made ramen at BA’s first ever noodle bar. Fukuro owners Vanessa and Matías Camozzi travelled extensively to noodle shops across Japan, the United States and South-east Asia to perfect their house recipe and introduce porteños to soul warming ramen noodle soup. The bright coloured space is decked out with a cool stencil graffiti motif designed by local street artist Cabaio. Hop onto a bar stool and choose from a reduced menu where everything is made from scratch: pork buns, gyoza, hand-pulled ramen noodles, 24-hour simmered broth, spicy dipping sauces and creative desserts like marshmallow cereal biscuits. Costa Rica 5514, y Humboldt (3290 0912/fukuronoodlebar.com). Bus 34, 39, 57. Open 8pm-midnight Tue-Thu; 8pm-1am Fri, Sat. Main courses $. No credit cards. Map H3. Tenkuu Sushi This sushi spot in Palermo balances the subtle class of Japanese tradition with the culinary vitality of contemporary Peruvian fusion food. The extensive menu includes mouth-watering sashimi and excellent nigiri, as well as a range of Pacific flavours such as Thai chicken and superb Peruvian brochettes. Be sure to book in advance as the space is intimate to say the least, but those who do manage to secure a table will enjoy good service overlooked by Japanese paintings. Top it all off with some saké and you’ll see why Tenkuu is a solid spot for sushi. Cabello 3370, y Paunero (4801 8042/ tenkuusushi.com.ar). Bus 57, 59, 60, 67, 92, 93, 95, 102. Open 8-11pm Mon-Sat. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map F4. Tô With Buenos Aires’s first-and-only conveyor belt sushi service, sleek Tô is the place to see and be seen in Palermo Hollywood. Grab a counter stool at the bar to watch fresh California and sashimi rolls go by, and admire master mixologists and sushi gurus at work. Don’t miss the crème de la crème of the Frapenese cuisine, the De Paris a Tokio, sushi rolls with avocado, caramelised onions, Dijon mustard and caviar. The large selection of wines and cocktails caters for all tastes, but whatever you choose, be sure to save some space for the volcán de chocolate. Costa Rica 6000, y Arévalo (4772 8569/www.torestaurant.com). Bus 39, 57. Open 8pm-midnight Mon-Wed; 8pm-1am Thu-Sat. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. A

PERUVIAN

Bardot With its purple sofas and red velvet curtains, this French-named Peruvian restaurant is all about making a bold statement from the moment you walk down the red carpet entrance. But if the bling decor doesn’t float your boat, the food certainly will. Time Out recommends the tangy degustación de ceviche to start, followed by the lomo salteado, all washed down with a range of perfectly executed pisco sours. Should you be hankering after a nightcap, Bardot’s location in the heart of Palermo Soho means you’re only steps away from a host of trendy bars. Honduras 5237, y Uriarte (4831 1112/ www.restobardot.com). Bus 15, 34, 39, 55, 108, 111, 140, 151, 166, 168. Open 8pm-12.30am Tue-Fri; 1-4pm, 8pm-1.30am Sat, Sun. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. M Bar Part art gallery, part sushi bar, part bistro, the new M Bar pleases everyone with a menu that is as diverse as it is delicious. The M stands for mar (sea): much of the menu is pescatarian, with stand out Peruvian dishes such as the tiradito limeño – tangy, limey sole strips with ají amarillo – and creative sushi, like the salmon nigiri with rocoto sauce, ginger and garlic. But fish-phobes need not despair, as there are pasta, burgers and steak on the menu too. Sit at the sushi bar or grab a table by the art covered wall and dine under stylish hanging lamps to the sound of sizzles from the open kitchen. El Salvador 5783, y Carranza (4778 9016/www.mbuenosaires.com.ar). Bus 39, 93, 108, 111. Open noon-3.30pm, 5pm-midnight Mon-Fri; 5pm-midnight Sat. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. Olaya Olaya isn’t just another spot serving Peruvian-Japanese fusion food. Instead, executive chef José Castro Mendivil, also responsible for Osaka (see p44), Sipan (see p58) and Mullu (see p34), pays tribute to over 500 years of Peruvian food culture and immigration, combining its culinary legacies with world cuisines: Japanese, Chinese, Indonesian, French and Italian. The extravagant space features a massive mural by famous Argentinian artist Milo Lockett, pisco bottles on display and a whole fish on ice next to the open kitchen. Portions are hefty, as are the prices, making it a draw for trendy Palermo big spenders who want to enter a world of elaborate and sophisticated Peruvian flavours. Humboldt 1550, entre Gorriti y Cabrera (4843 1751). Bus 39, 93, 108, 111. Open 8pm-midnight Mon-Wed; 8pm-1am Thu-Sat; Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2. Páru Who knew sliced fish could taste so good with parmesan cheese? Peru-born chef Jann Van Oordt, co-creator of Osaka (see p44), has gone it alone here to produce a successful joint which, after a dream run in upscale Palermo

Restaurants Tô (see p56)

Hollywood, relocated to the even more upscale, uber-exclusive Racket Club tucked away in the Palermo woods. Park yourself on the terrace and expect temptation to strike under each heading on the menu – and on the excellent pisco-dominated drinks list. Racket Club, Valentín Alsina 1450 (4778 3307/www.paru.com.ar). Bus 15, 29, 42, 55, 59, 60, 64, 118, 130. Open from 8pm Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Sipan Fashionably located in the Palermitano hotel, Sipan’s funky decor, open kitchen, impeccable service (not a given in Argentina) and stellar pisco bar make it a winner on the Peruvian cuisine circuit. Bow down before the Señor de los Milagros cocktail, a uniquely Peruvian mix of pisco, purple corn and lime, before getting started on an array of ceviche and sashimi. Time Out’s favourites include the octopus in black olive cream and the tiracuyá – a creative take on the traditional tiradito, with fresh pink salmon, miel de maracuyá (passionfruit honey) and crispy filo pastry. Uriarte 1648, entre Honduras y El Salvador (4833 9383/www. sipanrestaurants.com). Bus 34, 39, 55, 108, 140, 151, 166, 168. Open noon-4pm, 8pm-1am Tue-Sun. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. A Other location Paraguay 624, Microcentro (4315 0763).

SCANDINAVIAN

Olsen Olsen has been going strong for ten years; it was one of the first chic haunts to come to Palermo Hollywood, a barrio that is now swimming with similar places. Nonetheless, Olsen’s uber-stylish, minimalist design, (think hanging copper lamps and an ivy-covered patio lounge) manages to remain a highlight in the neighbourhood. The Scandinavian cuisine matches the stylish interior, with the smørrebrød (comprising smoked salmon, pastrami, smoked cheese, langoustine and more) being a favourite. No trip to Scandinavia would be complete without a bit of vodka; Olsen’s 60-plus vodka shots are the house speciality, but the liquor is put to particularly good use in the house cocktail, Mint – Absolut vodka, passionfruit and…you guessed it, mint. On a weekend afternoon, spend a few hours nursing a bloody mary while lounging in the patio, and you’ll understand why Olsen is here to stay. Gorriti 5870, entre Carranza y Ravignani (4776 7677). Bus 39, 57, 93, 108, 111, 140, 151, 168. Open 12.30pm-midnight Tue; noon-midnight Wed-Fri; noon-1am Sat; 10.30ammidnight Sun. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$105. Credit V. Map H2. AV SOUTH-EAST ASIAN

Green Bamboo The popular Vietnamese restaurant Green Bamboo balances the five

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essential elements of sweet, salty, bitter, spicy and sour tastes in a way that’s likely to keep even the most sophisticated palate interested. You can build your own plate with your choice of noodles, rice and meat, or order from an array of perfectly balanced dishes that includes the likes of fried wontons filled with steamed tofu and aubergine, ginger and sweet chilli squid, decadent short ribs and fish of the day marinated with tamarind, basil and shallots, wrapped up in a bamboo leaf and barbecued. One of the exotic fruit-inspired cocktails, like the delicate litchi martini or a grapefruit-laced Hemingway daiquiri, is an absolute must to round out a meal. With your stomach thrilled by the spicy delights, the bar area will keep your eyes amused with what some might describe as kitsch tat, all under the watchful gaze of Ho Chi Minh. Costa Rica 5802, y Carranza (4775 7050/www.green-bamboo.com.ar). Bus 39, 57, 93, 108, 111, 168. Open from 8.30pm daily. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. AV !Sudestada Minimalist and sophisticated, yet artfully unpretentious, Sudestada is celebrating 15 years at the forefront of the local gastronomic scene – a tough job in this country. As part of the festivities, chefs Leandro Azulay and Santiago Garrat have added spicy pork ribs, a Chinese omelette with salmon, and Philippine dumplings in black

vinegar to the colourful selection of starters. Main courses include Thai noodle dishes, a rotating selection of curries, grilled Asian beef, stir-fried chicken with cashew nuts and a tonsil-tingling Indonesia-style stir-fried egg noodles. The lunch special, available on weekdays, remains good value. You’ll be hard pressed to find starter and main and wine, for AR$80 anywhere else in the neighbourhood. Guatemala 5602, y Fitz Roy (4776 3777). Subte D, Palermo/bus 15, 93, 108, 111, 152, 194. Open noon3.30pm, 8pm-midnight Mon-Thu; 8pm-1am Fri, Sat. Main courses $$$. Lunch AR$80. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. VEGETARIAN

Arevalito Mismatched tables and chairs, paper lamps and handwritten menus, this vegetarian joint is hippie-chic to the core, but charming decor aside, it’s the home-made food that plays the starring role. Each day sees a new menu that changes between lunch and dinner, typically featuring a vegetable tart, a salad of the day and numerous desserts. The pastry on the leek and potato tart Time Out had was close to perfect: crumbly, thick and tasty. Expect to see unique creations as well, like a vegetable-stuffed chapatti topped with a poached egg, accompanied by a huge, fresh green salad. Just as spectacular and delicious is the refreshing grapefruit pomelade.

Restaurants Time Out Insidersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15 59

Restaurants

i Latina

Behind closed doors Our pick of Buenos Aires’s best puertas cerradas

rriving at a chef’s home is a bit like going to a dinner party, except everyone’s a stranger – at least for the first few minutes. Puertas cerradas (closed-door restaurants) offer set menus for a fixed price (take cash as credit cards are rarely accepted) and booking is always required – addresses are provided when you reserve. Adentro Dinner Club Argentinian chef Gabriel and his Colorado-native partner Kelly open up their beautiful Palermo Soho home to offer an elevated take on the traditional asado. They give visitors a first hand glimpse into what the true local culinary experience is all about: enjoying Argentinian beef in an intimate dinner party setting with family and friends. Gabriel mans the parrilla, showing guests from all around the world the tricks of the trade, while Kelly prepares an impressive spread of side dishes like fried empanadas, as she gives insider tips on the city. ! Location Palermo (info@adentro

dinnerclub.com/www.adentrodinner club.com). Bus 39, 55, 111. Open from 8.30pm Wed-Fri. Set menu AR$450. Casa Coupage At Casa Coupage you can expect the drinks to be every bit as spectacular as the food. The brains behind the outfit, Santiago Mymicopulo and Inés Mendieta, are both sommeliers, so alongside your dainty portions of venison carpaccio, sweetbread spring rolls and rabbit appetisers there are specially selected wine pairings. As well as the set food menus there are à la carte options and wines by the glass. ! Location Palermo (4777 9295/ www.casacoupage.com). Bus 34, 39, 108, 111. Open from 8.30pm Wed-Sat. Set menu AR$490. Casa Felix At Casa Felix, Diego and his wife Sanra invite guests into their Chacarita home for a five-course tasting menu. Each dish, usually vegetable or fish-based, is made

60 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15

from exotic produce sourced during the couple’s travels – and often from the back garden. Past menus have included sopes (thick, fluffy corn tortillas) with guacamole, and figs stewed in malbec to start, and for a hearty main course, home-made tamales. A small selection of Argentinian wines are available to purchase, and the couple have recently begun offering cooking classes. ! Location Chacarita (mobile 15 4147 8100/www.colectivofelix. com). Bus 39. Open from 9.30pm Thu-Sat. Set menu AR$370. V Casa Saltshaker Chef and sommelier Dan Perlman cooks up a different five-course meal each week for the ten privileged guests who sit round the communal table of his lovely home. The delicately balanced, exquisite dishes blend Mediterranean and Andean flavours and are paired with five delectable Argentinian wines. Past menus have included baked sea bass with spicy artichoke purée and fluke ceviche with yellow chilli

and passionfruit. ! Location Barrio Norte (www.casasaltshaker.com). Subte D, Pueyrredón/bus 59, 60, 92, 93, 101. Open from 8.45pm Wed-Sat. Set menu AR$550. La Cocina Discreta La Cocina Discreta offers a gourmet dining experience combined with art, cultural expositions and good music. Owners Alejandro and Rosana welcome up to 18 guests for a set meal (an aperitif and a choice of two starters, three mains and two desserts) that can include dishes such as duck breast in a balsamic reduction, accompanied by mint and pea purée and fennel ragout. Sign up for one of the cooking classes to learn all the secrets of this elegant and creative cuisine, and don’t miss the owners’ new closed-door tapas and live independent music venue, Chez Praliné (Bolívar 696) in San Telmo. ! Location Villa Crespo (4772 3803/mobile 15 6571 1002/ www.lacocinadiscreta.com). Subte

B, Malabia/bus 15, 110. Open from 9pm Thu-Sat. Set menu AR$320.

i Latina In a city where tropical flavours are scarce, i Latina satisfies many a craving with its Caribbean-Latin American five-course menu. Held in a magnificent house, this upscale dining experience headed by the Colombian Macías brothers is just as much about presentation and service as it is about gourmet food. While the set menu changes weekly, you can expect playful dishes such as octopus ceviche Nikkei with an avocado foam, or coffee-braised lamb in a green plantain cream. ! Location Villa Crespo (4857 9095/www.ilatinabuenosaires.com). Bus 15, 55. Open from 8pm TueSat. Set menu AR$700; AR$1080 with wine. Jueves a la Mesa Thai, Moroccan, Caribbean and Mexican are just a few of the cuisines US expat Meghan Lewis and her team cook every week. The menu changes fortnightly, but consistently offers creative, unpretentious vegetarian cuisine. The communal table and open kitchen means there’s no divide between diners and chefs, and guests can converse while passing around bottles of organic wine. Dinner comes to a satisfying end with Meghan’s home-made dark chocolates, often infused with spices like pink pepper. ! Location San Telmo (mobile 15 6200 0004/www.juevesalamesa. wordpress.com). Subte E, Belgrano/bus 24, 28. Open from 8.30pm Thu. Set menu AR$250. V Ocho Once Argentinian chef Gonzalo Bazterrica juggled Michelin stars and molecular gastronomy before chucking it in for something more organic in the comfort of his own

Restaurants

Cocina Sunae Every week Christina Sunae Wiseman cooks up a new medley of South-east Asian flavours at her gorgeous Colegiales home. The four courses rotate between Thai, Vietnamese, Philippine and occasionally Malaysian or Indonesian dishes, but the mix of spicy, sweet, salty and sour is always perfectly harmonised. Thai tom kha soup and Vietnamese spring rolls will whet your appetite for main courses like braised pork doused in a coconut curry. Spice fiends can ask for an extra bit of heat, although if you overdo it, Time Out recommends the ginger kamikaze cocktail as a way to put out the flames. A pot of hot tea and a stunning dessert are lovely ways to end a satisfying meal. ! Location Colegiales (mobile 15 4870 5506/www.cocinasunae. com). Subte B, Tronador/bus 21, 76, 87, 93, 127, 140. Open from 8pm Thu-Sat. Set menu AR$250. V

beautifully renovated home. His artfully presented five-course tasting menus give a French twist to South American classics: the sliver of raw fish in a passionfruit salsa is a nod to Peruvian ceviche, while the organic beef served with a cauliflower and caramelised onion purée in a port sauce doesn’t stray far from the pampas. Fruit-based desserts are waistline-friendly and the wine cellar is a shrine to the organic grape. ! Location Palermo (mobile 15 3614 5719). Bus 39, 93, 108. Open from 9pm Wed-Sat. Set menu AR$280 for five courses; AR$230 for three courses. Paladar Husband and wife team, chef Pablo Abramovsky and sommellier Ivana, offer up to 20 guests an intimate dining experience in their Villa Crespo home. The five-course tasting menu changes every week and the selected winery every month. The focus is on combining fresh, local products with skilful cooking techniques. Although some of the most noted dishes are meat or fish based – breaded prawns with a coconut and coriander dressing for example – vegetarians, coeliacs and rawfoodists can also be catered for. ! Location Villa Crespo (mobile 15 5797 7267/www.paladarbuenosaires.com.ar). Subte B, Malabia/ bus 15, 55, 57, 65, 71. Open from 9pm Thu-Sat. Set menu AR$250; AR$350 with wine. El Tejano Closed-door restaurant by night, and takeaway spot by day, El Tejano – run by Texan Larry Rogers – brings the taste of real Texas barbecue to BA. Everything is slow cooked in an impressive smoker, and house specialities include jalapeño and cheddar cheese chorizo sausages, brisket, whole chickens, pulled pork and ribs smothered in a home-made whisky barbecue sauce. If you leave without smelling of meat smoke, you did it all wrong. ! Location Honduras 4416 (info@ eltejanoba.com.ar/www.eltejanoba. com.ar). Bus 15, 36, 39, 140. Open noon-4pm, 8.30-11.30pm Wed, Thu; 9.30pm-12.30am Fri. Set menu varies, enquire for prices. Treintasillas At Treintasillas in Colegiales, diners enjoy a four-course set menu that changes weekly, but is always based on the premise of using high-quality ingredients to produce delicious, memorable meals. Past delights have included a risotto with roasted prawns and cured ham, grilled ribeye steak with caramelised fennel and, to finish, a chocolate and pistachio marquise. ! Location Colegiales (mobile 15 4492 7046/www.treintasillas.com). Bus 39, 42, 63. Open from 8pm Thu-Sat. Set menu AR$280. Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15 61

Restaurants

Arévalo 1478, y Cabrera (4776 4252). Bus 39, 93, 108. Open 10am-midnight Mon-Sat; 12.30-5.30pm Sun. Main courses $. Lunch AR$39-$45. No credit cards. Map H2. !V Artemisia With decor that includes deliberately mismatched crockery and a pantrystyle counter laden with tempting home-made breads and muffins, this vegetarian eaterie has become an instant hit with Palermo’s brunch set. Try starting your meal with an atypical picada – that’s atypical in that instead of consisting of ham and cheese, it includes bruschetta with dips and the delicious and original addition of beetroot marinated in ginger, honey and thyme. Mains include polenta lasagne and haddock in a marinade of lemongrass and coconut milk. Gorriti 5996, entre Ravignani y Arévalo (4776 5484/www. artemisianatural.com.ar). Bus 39, 151. Open 9.30am-12.30am Tue-Sat; 9.30am-5pm Sun. Main courses $. Lunch AR$98. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2. V Other location Cabrera 3877, Palermo (4863 4242). Bio Bio was the first organic restaurant in Buenos Aires, and has been serving vegetarian, vegan and raw food dishes to a loyal clientele for over decade. And while raw or vegan options might sound cold and clinical to some, Bio

infuses plenty of warmth and spices into its plates, with creative combos like curried rice and almond soup and classics with a twist, like quinoa risotto and cashew nut cheese pizza. In order to spread the organic love, Bio also offers cooking classes and sells organic goodies like fig coffee and wine in-store. Plenty more eateries have jumped on the organic food trend in the past ten years, but Bio is the real deal. Humboldt 2192, y Guatemala (4774 3880/www.biorestaurant.com). Bus 12, 15, 29, 39, 41, 55, 57, 60, 64, 67, 68, 93, 95, 108, 111, 118. Open 10am-midnight daily. Main courses $. Lunch AR$85. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. V Buenos Aires Verde It ain’t easy being green – or vegetarian – in BA, but Buenos Aires Verde pulls off both with aplomb. The hippie aesthetic of paintbox-bright decor belies a surprisingly sophisticated and varied menu. Salads with fresh dressings and vegan mayonnaise are a standout, as are the dozens of smoothies, juices and elixirs available. For mains, a row of flavourful seaweed and seed rolls comes wrapped around cashew cheese, mushrooms, bean sprouts and goji berries, while the polenta with tomato sauce and mushroom ragout is a hearty, filling option for a cold day. Walls are also lined with vegetarian, vegan and raw food goodies for sale, including baked goods, dried beans and home-made almond milk.

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Las Cañitas AMERICAN

Kansas Basking in the presence of the nearby, splendid Hipódromo de Palermo racetrack, Kansas has its own grand entrance and glamorous appeal. The queue can easily top an hour any day of the week, and the bar is often so packed there may not even be a place to enjoy a caipikiwi while you wait for your table. Once seated however, summon your appetite, roll up your sleeves and get ready to dig in to a hearty American meal with all the trimmings. The Houston barbecue ribs are finger-lickin’ good, and a massive and messy affair just the way they should be. Nothing is more American than a burger, and Kansas’s classic cheeseburger doesn’t disappoint. If there’s still room, try the chocolate fudge brownie; and if there isn’t, wriggle that top button loose and have dessert anyway. Avenida del Libertador 4625, entre Benjamín Matienzo y Jorge Newbery (4776 4100/www.kansasgrillandbar. com.ar). Bus 64. Open 11.45am-

midnight Sun-Thu; 11.45am-1.30am Fri; 11.45am-2am Sat. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. A ARGENTINIAN – TRADITIONAL

Parilla el Primo Locals flock to this prime Las Cañitas spot for its fantastic location, high-quality meat and friendly and efficient staff. Come for a long lazy lunch in the sunshine, and to watch the world go by as you stuff yourself silly on hunks of meat served on a sizzling tabletop grill. Delicious sauces chimichurri and salsa criolla will get your tonsils tingling, and are ideal slathered on top of a succulent steak or a juicy sausage. In the evening, make a reservation to avoid waiting for a table as this joint fills up quickly. Baez 302, y Arévalo (4772 8441/www. parillaelprimo.com.ar). Bus 10, 15, 29, 39, 41, 55, 57, 59, 60, 95, 118, 152, 160, 161, 194. Open from 6pm Mon-Thu; from noon Fri-Sun. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H4. MEXICAN

NEW La Fábrica del Taco With a new locale in Las Cañitas, La Fábrica del Taco adds some spice to this already-bustling neighbourhood. Slightly more upscale than the original Palermo joint, the new space is still decked out in fun Mexican decor – talaveras and candles mixed with colourful homages to lucha libre make

EZEQUIEL POCCARD

La Fábrica del Taco

Gorriti 5657, entre Fitz Roy y Bonpland (4775 9594/www.bsasverde. com). Bus 34, 39, 93, 108, 111, 140, 151, 166, 168. Open 9am-12.30am Mon-Sat. Main courses $. Lunch AR$48. No credit cards. Map H2. !V

Restaurants Time Out Insidersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15 63

ITALIAN

Restaurants

Salgado Alimentos ‘Panza llena, corazón contento’ (full belly, happy heart) is the slogan of this Italian neighbourhood gem, and night after night satisfied customers roll out of here with a pasta-sauce smile. With its fluorescent lighting, diner-style decor and fresh pasta counter, this restaurant is definitely substance over style – but oh, what substance! The chicken cannelloni in a creamy mustard sauce and raviolis de jamón crudo are divine. Reasonable prices mean there’s room in the budget for dessert; go for panza-padding portions of cheesecake, chocotorta and tiramisu. Juan Ramírez de Velazco 401, y Aráoz, Villa Crespo (4854 1336/www. salgadoalimentos.com.ar). Subte B, Malabia/bus 24. Open 9am-7pm Mon; 9am-7pm, 8.30pm-midnight Tue-Sat. Main courses $. Lunch AR$58. No credit cards. Map G1. !H SPANISH

New in town Roux

There’s something deceptively simple sounding about the dishes at this white-tablecloth Recoleta bistro. Plates like couscous and prawn salad, pumpkin soup with muscles and poached egg with chipirones (baby squid) seem easy enough, but in chef Martín Rebaudino’s hands, even the most humble cauliflower purée becomes an artful amuse-bouche. Save room for a dessert topped with home-made ice-cream, particularly if you spot one of the refreshing sorbets like grapefruit and orange-pineapple. Rebaudino honed his skills at Oviedo (see p46), and it shows in the exquisite seafood-based dishes and presentation at Roux. The front of house service is nothing short of impeccable, and the wine list includes varieties not often seen in Buenos Aires, like pinot noir, cabernet franc and sémillon. Peña 2300, y Azcuénaga (4805 6794/www.rouxresto.com). Bus 10, 17, 59, 60, 92, 95, 102, 108. Open 12.30-3.30pm, 8pm-midnight Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, V. Map E4.

for a festive experience that is as enjoyable for the playful ambience as it is the fantastic food. Spicy tomato salsas of all heat levels add real flavour to the fresh tacos. For those with a more sensitive tongue, the house speciality taco al pastor – strips of marinated pork with a tasty homemade sauce – is a firm favourite and best washed down with an excellent michelada or tequila-based cocktail. Báez 246, entre Arévalo y Andres Arguibel (4832 0815/www. lafabricadeltaco.com). Bus 10, 12, 15, 29, 55, 60, 95, 118, 152, 160, 161, 166, 194. Open from noon Tue-Sun. Main courses $. No credit cards. Map H4. ! Other location, Gorriti 5062, Palermo (4832 0815).

Once KOREAN

Bi Won Unimposing to the point of being invisible, this Korean restaurant is set in a neighbourhood better known for its fabric wholesalers than for fabulous dining experiences. Don’t be put off by

the ice-cream freezers that greet you as you enter, or the chintzy wallpaper: the place might have had a style bypass, but a glance at the customers should reassure you that the food here is authentic. The mandu guk is a huge bowl of broth with meat and vegetable-filled dumplings, while the sengson chigue is a spicy seafood stew made to share. If you like your eating experiences interactive, go for the bul gogui, sweet-tasting macerated meat with a tabletop grill for DIY cooking, plus a host of side dishes including pickled vegetables and anchovies. Junín 548, y Lavalle (4372 1146). Subte B, Pasteur/bus 6, 12, 24, 29, 37, 50, 60, 75, 95, 99, 101, 194 . Open 12.15-3pm, 7.30-11.30pm Mon-Fri; 7.30-11.30pm Sat. Main courses $$. No credit cards. Map D4.

Villa Crespo and Almagro ARMENIAN

Sarkis Good things come to those who wait, and you’re guaranteed both good

64 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15

things – and a wait – at perennially popular Sarkis, repeatedly cited as one of Buenos Aires’s best spots for Middle Eastern cuisine. Despite the barely translated menu, Sarkis has drummed up such a following that waits can easily top an hour (fortunately, there are plenty of Villa Crespo and Palermo bars nearby to duck into for a drink while your table opens up). Don’t be afraid to ask the staff for recommendations if you’ve no familiarity with the names of the menu’s Middle Eastern plates – with food this good, you’re unlikely to get a dud. The decor leaves much to be desired, but something keeps pulling the punters back; Time Out’s putting its cash on the food. Arab-style empanadas, houmous, shish kebab, falafel, kofta, tasty salads and excellent desserts arrive in generous portions; and while the prices might no longer be as rock bottom as they once were, Sarkis definitely still represents good value for money. Thames 1101, y Jufré, Villa Crespo (4772 4911). Bus 19, 34, 39, 55, 90, 108, 151, 166, 168. Open noon-3pm, 8pm-1am daily. Main courses $. No credit cards. Map G2. !V

!La Esperanza de los Ascurra This Spanish-style tapas bar is as poetic as it sounds. Paintings (some by co-owner Martín Beraldi) hang on a washing line and are for sale; while recycled tables and colourful chairs, each decorated by a different artist, give the place a bohemian vibe. After a shopping stint at the nearby Villa Crespo outlets, duck in for a miniature cañita (draft beer) and tapas at the long bar, or make a meal of it with two-for-one Cinzano-based cocktails and raciones to share. Time Out loves the gambas al ajillo (garlic prawns), boquerones (anchovies) and jamón serrano (the real deal, imported from Spain). An Illy coffee and flan make for the perfect end to any meal, large or small. The Palermo Hollywood branch gives plenty of esperanza (hope) that tapas are here to stay in BA. Aguirre 526, entre Malabia y Scalabrini Ortiz, Villa Crespo (2058 8313/www. esperanzaascurra.com.ar). Subte B, Malabia/bus 15, 24, 55, 110, 141, 168. Open 12.30-3.30pm, 6.30pm-midnight Tue-Sat. Main courses $. Lunch AR$88. Credit AmEx, V. Map G1. ! Other location Fitz Roy 1818, Palermo (3533 7122). VENEZUELAN

Arepera The clue’s in the name, kids. Arepera is your cheap and cheerful one-stop shop for tasty Venezuelan arepas. Think of the arepa as Latin America’s answer to the hamburger: a round, cornmeal-based patty stuffed to the crusts with all manner of fabulous fillings. Anything with avocado, marinated chicken, caramelised onion and plantain hits the spot, best washed down with one of the pitchers of fresh juices, like passionfruit, mango, pineapple or bittersweet lemon and sugar cane. Estado de Israel 4316, y Pringles, Almagro (mobile 15 6463 1229). Bus 19, 92. Open 7pm-midnight Tue-Thu, Sun; 8pm-1am Fri, Sat. Main courses $. No credit cards. Map F2. ! Other location Esmeralda 612, Microcentro (5237 2913).

Belgrano and Colegiales ARGENTINIAN – MODERN

Restaurants

!Astor – Manduque Porteño With its wooden tables, soft lighting and open kitchen, this modern Colegiales bistro might at first seem like it’s been plucked from trendy Shoreditch or Brooklyn. But look a little closer and you’ll discover plenty of local flavour: cookbooks by Argentinian chefs line the shelves underneath the kitchen counter, while mini figurines of pagan saint Gauchito Gil hide behind the rack of olive oils for good luck. Argentinian abstract art brings colour to the white walls and, of course, there’s the name: Astor, as in Piazzolla the tango king, is a nod to the BA of yesteryear, while manduque porteño translates as ‘BA grub’. The contemporary Argentinian menu changes weekly according to what’s fresh at the market, but expect it to be playful as chef Antonio Soriano is a fan of conceptual cuisine (on Time Out’s visit, the tasting menu was inspired by the arrival of spring). A nice touch is the home-made bread topped with crystallised salt flakes and

served in brown paper bags, as is the maté gourd and kettle brought to every table as an appetizer, filled not with the bitter green leaves, but instead a refreshing cocktail. Smiley staff and surprisingly reasonable prices are even more reason to love the place. Somehow, we don’t think Soriano will need any of those lucky figurines. Ciudad de la Paz 353, y Jorge Newbery, Colegiales (4554 0802/www.astorbistro. com). Bus 39, 60, 168. Open 8.30pm-1am Tue-Sat. Set menu AR$275-$355. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Pura Tierra As its name – ‘pure earth’ – suggests, the focus here is on fresh produce and clever use of the restaurant’s adobe-mud oven to create the perfect balance of colour, taste and texture. The menu dares to mix sweet and savoury in unusual combinations– mollejas (sweetbreads) are drizzled with molasses and fennel seeds, and for dessert there’s candied squash with turmeric cream, white chocolate, vanilla ice-cream and arrope (Spanish grape syrup). Indecisive diners can opt for an eight-course tasting menu to try a bit of everything – and every animal, with rabbit, lamb and pork all on the roster. Two tables on the pavement PABLO BARACAT

El Baqueano (see p36)

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15 65

Restaurants

EZEQUIEL POCCARD

outside are perfect for an intimate dinner, but most people prefer the cosy bare-brick interior. The sweet-toothed will do well to remember that this doubles as one of the city’s finest pastelerías: Kao. 3 de Febrero 1167, entre Avenida Federico Lacroze y Teodoro García, Belgrano (4899 2007/www.puratierra. com.ar). Subte D, Olleros/bus 15, 29, 41, 42, 55, 57, 59, 63, 194. Open 8pm-12.30am Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$$. Tasting menu AR$400. Credit AmEx, MC, V.

9082/www.sucrerestaurant.com.ar). Bus 28, 34, 37, 42, 47, 57, 107, 130, 152. Open noon-4pm, 8pm-1am daily. Main courses $$$. Lunch AR$170. Credit AmEx, MC, V. A CHINESE

Hong Kong Style Arguably the best spot for Chinese food in Barrio Chino, if not all of Buenos Aires, this Chinatown hotspot serving dim sum and Cantonese favourites is presided over by chef Lui Cheuk Hung and his wife Lily. Service may be slow, but all the food is ultra fresh and made to order, ensuring customers leave extra !Sucre happy and with a full belly. Go with a If you can swing a ringside seat at large group so you can try a bit of dramatic, high-ceilinged Sucre, everything: dumplings, sweet and sour preferably at a high table beside the soup, whole fish in oyster sauce and wide open kitchen, then do. The salt and pepper prawns are all cuisine is international – must orders. Italian, Japanese, Spanish Montañeses 2149, entre and Peruvian, among others – meaning there are What time’s dinner? Mendoza y Juramento, Belgrano (4786 3456). Bus no limits on what the Argentinians don’t chefs can produce. typically go out to eat 15, 29, 42, 44, 55, 60, 63, 64, 65, 80, 107, 113, 114. Cocktails are just as until 9.30pm at the Open from 8pm Mon, Tue, innovative: take the earliest. avocado cocktail, for Thu; noon-4pm, from 8pm example, which blends lemon, Fri-Sun. Main courses $$. No avocado, syrup, basil, white rum and credit cards. amaretto. The exemplary staff is only FRENCH too happy to talk you through the menu Pipí Cucú and select a bottle of wine from one of Fresh flower petals strewn across crisp the 350 options. The wonderful parrilla white linen tablecloths, oversized meats are cooked with local firewood, vintage artwork and intimate corner giving them a special, smoky taste. There’s also a fine fish selection, and an tables make this French-style restaurant a romantic spot for couples extensive tapas and dessert menu to on a date night. Delicate starters start and finish a meal. include warm, gooey Camembert or Sucre 676, entre Avenida Figueroa tender sweetbreads with tomato confit Alcorta y Castañeda, Belgrano (4782

TOP TIP!

Filo (see p32)

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Restaurants Time Out Insidersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15 67

Restaurants PerSe (see p51)

and rocket, but for a heartier meal, go for the delicious pork bondiola with honey cane and cinnamon, or the creamy almond and chicken curry. Rather skip dinner and just do drinks and dessert? Indulge in the delicious pistachio crème brûlée. Then prop up the bar and make friends with the charming bartender, who will happily craft you a cocktail not found on the menu. Ciudad de la Paz 557, entre Olleros y Maure, Belgrano (4551 9314). Subte D, Olleros/bus 28, 39, 41, 42, 57, 59, 60, 63, 67, 68, 152, 160, 161, 168, 194. Open 12.30pm-1am Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$. No credit cards. PERUVIAN

Contigo Perú Had enough steak already? Then let the technicolour-waistcoated waiters at this cool cantina bring you a short, sharp citric shock in the shape of a plate of ceviche and a brace of pisco sours. The extensive menu has every variety of ceviche, along with a range of seafood mains – including various creations with pulpo (octopus) – and sides the delicious papa a la huancaína, creamy, garlic-laced potato. Traditional Peruvian desserts include suspiro limeño and passionfruit mousse. Crowded with diners looking to transport themselves to Cuzco, Contigo Perú represents global cuisine at its most splendidly parochial. Great fun – and cheap to boot.

Echeverría 1627, y Montañeses, Belgrano (4780 3960/www.contigoperu.com.ar). Bus 15, 29, 42, 44, 55, 60, 63, 64, 65, 80, 107, 113, 114, 118, 130. Open noon-4pm, 8pmmidnight Mon-Sat. Main courses $. No credit cards. SOUTH-EAST ASIAN

Lotus Neo Thai Fans of Thai cuisine will find all their favourite dishes here, but with the added bonus of slurping the tom kha soup under the visage of psychedelic painted flowers climbing the walls. Or opt for a table on the candlelit terrace to eat amid real plants, flowers and bamboo. Consider the elegant Lotus cocktail as a starting point – a mix of vodka and passionfruit, sugar and ice; then go for the popular kaeng pehd ped yang – roasted duck and pineapple in a red curry sauce or the mango salad if you want something lighter. Most dishes can be made gluten-free upon request, and Thai fans will really rejoice when they see that Lotus Neo Thai also offers delivery and the occasional cooking class. Arribeños 2265, entre Olazábal y Mendoza, Belgrano (4783 7993/www. restaurantelotus.com.ar). Bus 15, 29, 42, 44, 60, 63, 64, 65, 80, 107, 113, 114. Open from 8.30pm Mon; 12.30-3.30pm, from 8.30pm Tue-Sun. Main courses $$$. Lunch AR$120. Credit AmEx, V. V

68 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15

Further afield ARGENTINIAN – MODERN

all washed down with several glasses of local sauvignon blanc. Add to that crisp and polite service and this spot is well worth the journey from the city centre. 11 de Septiembre 4152, e Irlanda, Núñez (4703 5568). Bus 28, 29, 117. Open noon-midnight Tue-Sun. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V.

NEW Alo’s The only downside to this bistro is that it’s not in Buenos Aires proper – aside from that, Alo’s is a gourmet’s paradise. Chef Alejandro Féraud and his team make just about everything in house, from the fresh breads and Urondo Bar pastas (try the meat-filled triangolini) Named after Francisco ‘Paco’ Urondo, to the scrumptious ice-cream. Sit at a radical poet who became one of the bar so that you can order the Argentina’s ‘disappeared’ during the tasting menu and watch the chefs military dictatorship, this off-thework their magic in the open kitchen. beaten-track spot is run by his Blanco Encalada 2120, y Julián grandson Javier and nephew Navarro, San Isidro (4737 Sebastián. The former mans 0248/www.alo-s.com.ar). the kitchen, turning out Bus 168. Open 8am-8pm dishes that fuse Mon-Wed; 8am-midnight Argentinian and intense Comando Gourmand Thu-Sat. Main courses South-east Asian Follow this group on $$. No credit cards. influences. Start with Facebook or Twitter the copetín, a mixed for the latest scoops Oporto Almacén platter of cheeses, meat on the BA food A beautiful corner spot and vegetables. Mains scene. with cutting-edge interior include dishes like ossobuco design and over 500 wines at or grilled lamb served with lentils, store prices make Oporto Almacén a fennel and mint. Sebastián handles the lovely spot for a lazy afternoon front of house and manages one of lunch, far away from bustling the best wine lists Time Out has seen downtown Buenos Aires. Prices are in Buenos Aires. sufficiently affordable to tempt Beauchef 1204, y Estrada, Parque customers to pick generously from Chacabuco (4922 9671). Subte E, the menu: Time Out shared a chicken Moreno/bus 53, 56, 96, 97, 195. salad with poached egg on a bed of Open from 8.30pm Tue-Sat. Main courses $$. No credit cards. watercress and a selection of tapas,

TOP TIP!

Restaurants Time Out Insidersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15 69

Restaurants

Food and Drink index

Jueves a la Mesa Ocho Once Paladar El Tejano Treintasillas

Cafés

Eclectic

La Alacena Bar Británico Bar Plaza Dorrego Bartola La Biela Birkin Coffee Bar Café Crespín Café Tortoni La Crespo El Federal Florencio Full City Coffee House El Gato Negro Grand Café In Bocca al Luppo Lattente Magendie Malvón Mark’s Deli & Coffee House Mercadito Latino Ninina Bakery Nolita Oui Oui Pain et Vin Le Pain Quotidien Pani Tatan Las Violetas Voltaire Yeite

Azema Exotic Bistró Blanch Fifi Almacen Gran Dabbang Marathika El Perlado

28 25 25 26 26 26 28 25 28 25 26 26 25 25 26 27 27 28 27 26 27 28 27 27 27 26 28 28 28 26

French

A Nos Amours L’Atelier de Celine Brasserie Petanque Pipí Cucú Sirop Folie

Indian

Tandoor

Italian

Il Ballo Del Mattone El Cuartito Cucina Paradiso Filo Fornería Guido’s Bar Guido Restaurant Maria Fedele Il Matterello Piola Salgado Alimentos Siamo nel Forno

Japanese

Fukuro Noodle Bar Osaka Tenkuu Sushi Tô Wasabi’s

Restaurants American

Burger Joint Dean & Dennys Kansas Muu Lechería

Argentinian – traditional La Brigada Las Cabras La Cabrera Club del Progreso Cumaná El Desnivel Don Julio La Dorita Gran Parrilla del Plata Lo de Jesús Manolo Minga Miramar Miranda El Obrero Pan y Arte Parrilla el Primo Perón Perón El Preferido de Palermo

Argentinian – modern

Alo’s Aldo’s Vinoteca y Restorán Aramburu Aramburu Bis Astor - Manduque Porteno El Baqueano Café Rivas Casa Cruz Caseros Chochán Crizia Dadá Elena Gran Bar Danzón Le Grill i Central Market Janio

46 46 62 46 35 47 47 30 44 35 48 48 35 48 36 48 40 48 40 42 62 48 50 68 36 40 42 65 36 36 50 36 36 50 30 44 44 42 42 50

Korean Bi Won

Mexican

La Fábrica del Taco

Peruvian

Bardot Chan Chan La Causa Nikkei Contigo Perú Coya M Bar Mullu Olaya Páru Rawa Sipan Dean & Dennys (see p46)

Leopoldo Local El Mercado Moreneta de Montserrat Museo Evita Restaurante NC Freud & Fahler Oporto Almacén La Panadería de Pablo Paraje Arévalo PerSe Las Pizarras La Popular Pura Tierra Ralph’s El Refuerzo Roux Sucre Tarquino Tegui Tomo I Urondo Bar

70 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15

Scandinavian 50 50 44 30 50 50 68 36 51 51 51 36 65 36 38 64 66 44 52 30 68

Armenian

Sarkis

Brazilian

Boteco do Brasil

British Chipper

Chinese

Hong Kong Style

Closed-door restaurants Adentro Dinner Club Casa Coupage Casa Felix Casa Saltshaker La Cocina Discreta Cocina Sunae i Latina

Olsen 64 52 52 66

South-east Asian Green Bamboo Lotus Neo Thai Sudestada

Spanish

Café San Juan La Esperanza de los Ascurra Oviedo

Vegetarian 60 60 60 60 60 61 61

Arevalito Artemisia Bio Buenos Aires Verde Hierbabuena

Venezuelan Arepera

61 61 61 61

52 54 54 54 54 32 54 38 38 66 44 46 54 32 54 32 54 54 56 34 40 46 64 56 56 44 56 56 34 64 62 56 34 46 68 34 56 34 56 56 34 58 58 58 68 58 38 64 46 58 62 62 62 38 64

Nightlife

Photograph: Isabel

Bars

Clubs

Nightlife index

Bars

Maté and gin are best mates in Florería Atlántico’s Tereré Tonic

Native flavours Sorrel Moseley-Williams uncorks BA’s latest drinking trend of distinctly Argentinian cocktails

hile Fernet Branca and malbec devotedly fly Argentina’s national booze flag, Buenos Aires’s thriving cocktail scene has stealthily been taking matters of national alcohol into its own hands. Home-grown spirits born in the 19th century such as Hesperidina and Pineral have become local bar staples, while Argentina’s first premium gin is infused with yerba mate. Gourds typically used to serve maté have become alcohol-bearing vessels, and local grapes are taking a star turn as a principal cocktail ingredient. With so many options that are bien argentinos, even die-hard fernet and Coke drinkers might be tempted to try a more sophisticated take on the nation’s favourite digestif. Retiro’s Florería Atlántico (see p74) serves a double dose of Argentinian drinks. Not only does owner Renato ‘Tato’ Giovannoni distil his own Príncipe de los Apósteles gin with an Argentinian twist – the liquor is infused with botanicals like

peppermint, eucalyptus, pink grapefruit zest and yerba mate – but his bar’s drink menu also keeps ingredients local. One favourite of Sebastián Atienza, jefe de barra, is the Chinchibirra. This is a drink with a history, he says, a riff on a zingy, booze-free ginger beer first served to the thirsty kids of Argentina’s northeastern Entre Ríos province in the 1920s. Naturally, the Florería version has been significantly overhauled. With torrontés (Argentina’s only native grape, trivia fans) from the Dominio del Plata winery, limoncello (that lemon-based Italian, ergo Argentinian, digestif) at its heart and a spicy kick of ginger ale to top it off, the Chinchibirra is easily quaffed down. Don’t forget to sample Príncipe de los Apósteles on its home turf, best consumed in the Tereré Tonic, comprised of the prince itself, yerba mate, fresh mint and another Giovannoni invention, the Pulpo Blanco tonic water. You can also buy a bottle of the gin to take home at Florería’s upstairs shop.

Premium gin is infused with yerba mate

72 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15

In Recoleta, Pony Line Bar (see p76) takes its maté seriously. Grab a stool and ask for the Backhander – a gin-based cocktail that is essentially an alcoholic tereré (chilled maté) infusion. Just as maté is always served in a gourd and with a thermos of water, this drink comes with a burly jug of Bombay Sapphire, cucumber and lime juices to top off the refreshing lemongrass and green tea blend, all served in a bespoke silver mug and with a bombilla (straw). This signature drink also scores points for longevity: the jug of ginned-up juice allows you to share it or even make it last the night. Meanwhile, the Cynar Julep at Rey de Copas (see p80) is more an Everyman’s kind of concoction. One of the first bars to reinvent maté gourds as a receptor for alcohol, this Palermo haunt uses simple metal cups and bombillas for the cocktail based on the artichoke-infused aperitif. There’s definitely something fun, verging on naughty, about staining the reputation of innocent yerba mate leaves when sipping this refreshing julep. Staying in Palermo, Verne Club (see p80) cocktail curator Fede Cuco

mixes what just might be the ultimate Argentinian cocktail: the Bagley Gimlet. Ditching the gimlet’s classic gin or vodka in exchange for strictly local spirits, this version mixes the aforementioned Apóstoles gin, orange-infused Hesperidina and the cheap-as-chips herbal liqueur Legui. Trivia fans will also appreciate knowing the drink was named after North American immigrant Melville Sewell Bagley, who invented Hesperidina in 1864. Meanwhile, The Argentine Experience (Fitz Roy 2110, mobile 15 3896 7552, www.theargentine experience.com) likes to swap the usual cocktail spirits for Argentina’s favourite grapes, malbec and torrontés, when concocting its signature drinks. Dip into one of the daily mixology classes for fun tips and sips and see the sacred grapes in a different light – the florally fragrant torrontés takes on a new and refreshing dimension in the Torrontea, a refreshing fusion of vodka, crushed lime, chunks of ginger and chamomile tea. The Argentine Experience also generously shares its recipes on its blog. No ultimate Argentinian cocktail list would make the cut without a little of everyone’s favourite gloopy brown stuff: fernet. At The Harrison Speakeasy (Malabia and Costa Rica), head mixologist Seba García devised the perk-you-up Expresso Martini 95.1, which has Amaro Fernet, vodka and espresso coffee at its core. Harrison’s team, also comprising Chula Barmaid and Gon Cabado, plays around with Argentina’s red wine of choice in the Malbec Style, adding ginger, lemon juice, berries and Angostura bitters to the classic vino tinto. The Argentinian cocktail trend shows no sign of slowing down. The house aperitif at Astor Manduque Porteño (see p65) is a twist on tereré. Presented in a classic kettle filled with ice and vermouth, this aperitif tops up a gourd featuring maté, blueberries, mint and lime. Artesano, the bar at the Alvear Art Hotel (see p150), combines Pineral and Amargo Obrero with pink grapefruit juice and a dash of soda to make the Punta del Diablo. At MAD (Avenida del Libertador 6002, 4783 9035, www.barmad.com.ar), barman Seba Chiani loves to use Hesperidina, fernet and Legui in his drinks. And over at Le Grill (see p42), bartender Leandro Larea has created the Fernetivo, a dark and brooding monster of a drink with gin, beetroot juice, Cynar and of course fernet, among other bitters. If none of these top-of-the-line cocktails tickle your fancy, snap up a bottle of Amargo Obrero. The defiantly Argentinian bitter can be found on the lowest shelves of all mediocre supermarkets and teams up perfectly with grapefruit juice. Whatever your style, raise a glass to Argentina and say, ‘Salud!’

The basics

Bars

Porteños have plenty of local heritage to draw upon when it comes to creating new cocktail combinations. Don’t be surprised if an innovative barman offers you cocktails containing yerba mate, malbec or Italian aperitifs like Campari and Cynar that continue to rise in popularity. Drinks aside, you can always count on a BA bar for ambience: stop by the cosy, newly opened wine bar Ser y Tiempo (see p80) for a glass of vino or a tasting session, or take a seat in the open-air Festival (see right), the newest venture from the team that brought us Soria (see p80). This may also be the year that beer gives malbec a run for its money in Buenos Aires: check out our list of artisanal beer venues (see p82), and be sure to vist the highly anticipated NOLA Gastropub (see p80), which serves its own line of artisanal pints with its New Orleans-style grub. HOW TO USE THE LISTINGS This section presents our selection of the city’s best bars. ! denotes a place we particularly recommend. NEW means the bar has opened in the last six months or so. D signals free Wi-Fi for customers.

The Centre BASA Bar Created by the discerning owners of Gran Bar Danzón (see p44), this basement resto-bar is all about moody lighting, comfy sofas and damn fine cocktails. The diverse 25-strong cocktail list, compiled by head barman Ludovico De Biaggi, is guaranteed to hold your attention for the night. Happy hour, from 7pm to 9pm, is the perfect time to sample a classic cocktail rarely seen on BA menus: the Moscow Mule, mixed with house-made ginger beer. In addition to all the classics there are quirky drinks like the Penicillin, designed to be drunk straight from the bottle wrapped in a paper bag, and above average bar food. Basavilbaso 1328, entre Avenida del Libertador y Juncal (4893 9444/www. basabar.com.ar). Bus 101, 108, 152, 195. Open noon-3.30pm, from 6.30pm Mon-Fri; from 8pm Sat. Credit MC, V. Map D6. D La Cigale For a touch of Paris in South America, this is a good place to get the night started with the after-work crowd in downtown BA. Happy hour from 6pm to 10pm every day with two-for-one on selected cocktails is a major bonus, but the big deal is the live music. Tuesday nights – known as Minelek – have electronic music spinning over the chatter. If you like a bit of competition with your cocktail, try the monthly Monday night English-language pub quiz (see www.buenosairespubquiz. com for information). 25 de Mayo 597, y Tucumán, Microcentro (4893 2332/www. 74 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15

lacigalebar.blogspot.com). Subte B, Florida/bus 5, 22, 28, 152, 195. Open noon-4pm, from 6pm Mon-Fri; from 9.30pm Sat. Credit V. Map C5. D !Florería Atlántico And the award for BA’s most original resto-bar goes to… Florería Atlántico, a florist, wine shop and speakeasy rolled into one. Walk in and smell the roses, then head downstairs to the narrow, romantically lit space. Almost everything on the menu is cooked on the vintage 1942 parrilla, imparting that delicious charcoal flavour so typical of Argentina. Inspired by Buenos Aires’s rustic port bars of the 1900s and their immigrant clientele, the drinks menu, devised by co-owner Tato Giovannoni, is divided into countries. Under ‘Poland’ is the signature cocktail Bocharov: Belvedere vodka, rosehip, orange juice and tabasco. Tato’s beautiful wall sketches of mythical sea monsters contrast with sleek, minimalist furniture, making this one of Time Out’s top spots. Arroyo 872, y Suipacha, Retiro (4313 6093/www.floreriaatlantico.com.ar). Bus 39, 93, 152. Open 7pm-1.30am Mon-Wed; 7pm-2.30am Thu; 7pm3.30am Fri; 8pm-3.30am Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D6.

San Telmo Doppelgänger ‘This is not for everyone’, Doppelganger’s wall proudly proclaims, and there’s no point beating around the bush about it – there’s no beer here, no soft drinks, and the only wine you’ll find has been artfully mixed with a variety of spirits. Instead, you’ll find over 100 cocktails made from both classic and exotic liquors. Never tried the saffron-infused Strega? Opt for the Pie-O-My – cardamom flavoured vodka, saké, Strega, orange bitters and lemon peel. As you imbibe, you can graze on tapas or tuck in to a full meal. Or, ask for a Humpty Dumpty and the expert bartenders will fix up a cocktail based on your flavour and liquor preferences. Juan de Garay 500, y Bolívar (4300 0201/www.doppelganger.com.ar). Subte C, San Juan/bus 159, 168, 195. Open 7pm-2am Tue-Fri; from 8pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. D

New in Town Festival

Part bar, part restaurant, part art gallery, but 100 percent buena onda, this new spot fills a void in the Palermo scene. Arrive before midnight and pop upstairs to see the art exhibitions, and stay until the wee hours of the morning sipping the affordable, but well-crafted cocktails as the guest DJs spin pop and electronic beats. Gorriti 5741, entre Bonpland y Carranza (4775 6733). Bus 39, 93, 108, 111, 140. Open from 8pm Tue-Thu; from 9pm Fri, Sat. No credit cards. Map H2. D

Recoleta

Bars

!Milión Almost certainly the most beautiful, graceful bar in Buenos Aires, Milión is over a decade into its reign and still outshining the competition. From your very first sight of the place, the sense of elegance and occasion is dazzling. Happy Hour from 6pm to 9pm is the perfect way to end a hard day’s work on a glamorous note. Staying classy is easy on Saturday mornings if you take advantage of the brunch offerings. Paraná 1048, entre Marcelo T de Alvear y Avenida Santa Fe (4815 9925/www.milion.com.ar). Bus 101, 150. Open 10am-2am Mon-Wed; 10am-3am Thu; 10am-4am Fri, Sat; 8.30pm-2am Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. D

Río Café (see p80)

Gibraltar This authentic British pub is as much of a favourite with the after-officethree-pints-and-home-to-the-wife crowd as with the multitude of drink-till-youdrop expats and backpackers. It serves up well-priced beer in pint glasses and an exhaustive collection of whiskies. Try the beef and ale pie or the heavenly fish and chips, and on weekends you’ll have to loosen a belt notch for the Full English Breakfast. The pub is packed on weekends, when it gets louder and louder until, after midnight, it turns into a standing room-only, noisy, flirtatious little hotspot. Happy hour specials are offered from noon to 10pm daily. Perú 895, y Estados Unidos (4362 5310). Bus 9, 70, 86, 159. Open noon-4am daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. D Krakow Krakow’s reasonable prices and fun atmosphere help bring many visitors to its doors. Befitting its Polish theme, Krakow’s menu boasts an impressive range of beers and vodkas, and if your favourite cocktail isn’t listed, the friendly staff will happily make it for you. Watch sports on the big screen, play Jenga or Nintendo and sample hearty European dishes like Polish sausage. You’ll have to turn up early if you want to bag one of the comfy sofas, but think twice before attempting a drinking contest with vodka-enthusiast co-owner Tadeusz. Venezuela 474, entre Defensa y Bolívar (4342 3916/www.krakow-cafe.com.ar). Subte E, Belgrano/bus 2, 29, 45. Open 5pm-4am Mon-Fri; 6pm-4am Sat, Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. D Other location Jorge Luis Borges 2076, Palermo (4775 3950).

La Poesía Having been closed since the late 1980s, romantic La Poesía opened

again in 2008 under the deft management of the crew from nearby El Federal (see p25). This cosy, warmly-lit café-bar gathers an eclectic clutch of San Telmo regulars and tourists who visit for a coffee and a chat, for the extensive menu of picadas and mains and for the generally pleasant ambience. Chile 502, y Bolívar (4300 7340/www. cafelapoesia.com.ar). Bus 29, 45, 86. Open 8am-2am Mon-Thu, Sun; 8am-4am Fri, Sat. No credit cards. Map B4. D La Puerta Roja La Puerta Roja (‘the red door’, which is all that marks the spot) is a pleasure: a classic, no-nonsense bar. The prices are set to attract the youngsters, backpackers and resident foreigners who pack the place out till late. The space is large, the music eclectic, the decor simple and there isn’t a cocktail umbrella in sight. Happy hour on certain spirits and microbrewery beers – try the Kingston stout – is from 6pm to 10pm, and there’s a pool table with plenty of space to swing a cue. The menu features cheap, tasty and filling food such as nachos, hamburgers and spicy chicken wings. Chacabuco 733, entre Chile y Avenida Independencia (4362 5649/www. lapuertaroja.com.ar). Subte E, Independencia/bus 24. Open noon-3am Mon, Sun; noon-5am Tue-Sat. No credit cards. Map B4. D Rubik Tucked away on calle Bolívar in an area more known for smoky parrillas and dusty cafés, Rubik bar has done a fair job attracting a mix of local hipsters and foreigners from the nearby hostels. They come for the pool table, the live footy matches and most of all, for the convivial and friendly atmosphere. A menu featuring pints at AR$40 and American-style comfort food like tacos,

76 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15

nachos, chips and mini-burgers (sliders) ensure a busy bar area. There are no bells and whistles here, this is just a fun, back-to-basics pub. Bolívar 825, y Avenida Independencia (www.rubikba.com). Bus 61, 74, 86. Open 5pm-5am Mon-Fri; 7pm-5am Sat. No credit cards. Map B4. Será de Dios When you need a direct line to the Holy Spirit, look no further than Será de Dios (Will of God). Perhaps it’s the stained-glass windows or the wall of bottles backlit by fairy lights that’s like an incandescent, boozy shrine, but this place makes you want to seek solace in hard liquor. Two-for-one cocktails until 10pm makes that an easy enough task, and hearty bar grub is a godsend when stamina starts to run low. The Stones and Stereophonics are the soundtrack to a night of shooting pool or lounging about on devilishly red couches. México 355, entre Defensa y Balcarce (4331 1086/www.facebook.com/ seradediosbar). Bus 29, 86, 93, 152. Open noon-4pm Mon; noon-4pm, from 6pm Tue-Fri; from 9pm Sat. No credit cards. Map B5. D

Puerto Madero The Library Lounge One of the city’s hands-down sexiest bars, the Library Lounge at Faena Hotel Buenos Aires (p154) effortlessly meshes the classic (crystal chandeliers, leather sofas) and postmodern (stuffed antelope heads). Befitting the plush setting, cocktails feature the likes of champagne and Grey Goose vodka, and during the afternoon there’s English High Tea. Faena Hotel Buenos Aires, Martha Salotti 445, Dique 2, Madero Este (4010 9000/www.faena.com). Bus 2, 111, 129. Open from noon daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B5. D

Pony Line Bar Inspired by polo, the sport of kings, and kitted out in brown leather and riding motifs, the Pony Line Bar feels classy rather than kitsch. Prop yourself up at the bar and choose from an eclectic cocktail menu designed by master mixologist and sommelier Sebastián Maggi. Time Out loves the light-green concoction Descoya, with Absolut Vodka, torrontés wine, San Germain and pisco, served up in a martini glass complete with a delicious little green olive. After a few cocktails, switch to one of the unique and flavoursome artisanal beers. Posadas 1086/88, y Avenida 9 de Julio (4321 1730/www.elenaponyline.com). Bus 17, 60. Open 11am-2am Mon-Sat; 5pm-12.30am Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. D The Shamrock Loud music, happy hour until midnight and drinks that are excellent value: what more could you want? This Irish bar is very much a BA classic, particularly with the young student crowd. From Thursday to Saturday you should arrive early if you want to grab a bar stool. The pub gets filled to the brim as a pre-drinking spot, as Shamrock Basement (see p92) is conveniently located downstairs. The owner spends his life researching music and it pays off: this place plays some of the best music tracks in Buenos Aires. Rodríguez Peña 1220, entre Arenales y Juncal (4812 3584). Subte D, Callao/ bus 37, 39, 152. Open from 6pm Mon-Fri; from 10pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5. D

Palermo Antares Real ale-lovers, rejoice: this place is a haven for beer fans craving a proper pint, and the adventurous who want to try something different. Antares’s mission is to introduce customers to the delights of its various brews, including Scotch ale, honey beer and cream stout. The bar attracts folks of all sorts, from brew connoisseurs to lager louts who don’t care where the beer comes from. The food is mostly hearty Bavarian

EZEQUIEL POCCARD

of the new VIP lounge, which is sure to be good enough for Ziggy Stardust. Armenia 1439, entre Gorriti y Cabrera (4833 1141). Bus 39, 55, 57. Open 5.15pm-1.30am Tue-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D

Bars

Chupitos The name says it all: Chupitos, meaning ‘shots’, is a grungy little haven for study abroad students and backpackers looking to meet like-minded revellers. Between the spicy Pinche Cabrón and flaming Harry Potter vodka shots you’re sure to have a night to remember (or not). Beer pong and cocktails also keep the ball rolling and for hungry punters, the recently opened Palermo Hollywood location sells fast-food. Gorriti 5033, entre Thames y Serrano (4831 9690). Bus 34, 39, 168. Open 8pm-3am Mon-Thu; 10pm-5am Fri, Sat. Credit AmEx, V. Map G2. D Other location Bonpland 1670, Palermo (4775 1041).

Recommended The Steve

For its central Palermo location, The Steve has achieved the unthinkable. It’s trendy yet welcoming, has a range of affordable, delicious drinks and – aside from the imposing exterior – is entirely unpretentious. The friendly service, indie music and stylish, vintage touches add to the appeal, and the half-pint tankards of gin and tonic, margarita and Campari don’t hurt either. Chat on the leafy patio, make friends at the communal table or sit back in your own intimate booth admiring the hipster types around you. As the bar’s namesake Steve McQueen would surely agree: The Steve really is the King of Cool. El Salvador 4968, y Thames (mobile 15 6688 3655). Bus 39, 55, 140, 151. Open 6pm-1am Mon-Wed; 6pm-3am Thu-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. D

fare, but also includes tapas, tablas de picadas and main courses cooked using the house beers. Armenia 1447, entre Gorriti y Cabrera (4833 9611/www.cervezaantares.com). Bus 39, 55, 140, 151, 168. Open from 6pm Tue, Fri; from 7pm Mon, Wed, Thu, Sat, Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D Other locations Bolívar 491, San Telmo (4342 3836); Arévalo 2876, Las Cañitas (4772 2133). The Bangalore Pub & Curry House Think warm woods, soft chairs, ceiling fans and a highly convivial atmosphere, and you’ve some idea of what this colonial-style establishment has to offer. The bar consistently fills to the brim, with crowds of locals and foreigners often spilling outside. That popularity is thanks in no small part to the Bangalore’s generous jugs of gin and tonic, which can be mixed with lavender or ginger syrup. Even on the most crowded night (of which there are many), the pillow-lined nooks upstairs make for a cosy place for a round of pints and subcontinental cuisine. A plate of samosas and the Indian platter – three types of curry and bread – are perfect for sharing. Humboldt 1416, y Niceto Vega (4779 2621). Bus 55, 93. Open noon-4am daily. Credit MC, V. Map G2. D

Bar du Marché Neighbouring wine store Siete Spirits (see p111) provides the 50 plus wines available at Bar du Marché, which serves the elixir by the glass, in halfand three-quarter-litre measures and by the bottle, allowing you to try multiple wines in one night without falling off your chair. There are extensive dining options and a sushi bar upstairs, but the best way to appreciate Bar du Marché’s Parisian bistro atmosphere is with the wine and cheese tasting plate – three glasses of wine and three varieties of cheese for AR$150. Nicaragua 5946, entre Arévalo y Ravignani (4778 1050/www. bardumarchepalermo.com). Bus 39, 60, 93, 152. Open 9.30am-12.30am Mon-Sat. Credit MC, V. Map H3. Belushi Well-dressed Palermites come in droves to this swanky bar-boliche, hoping to sip on a martini while rubbing shoulders with local celebrities and models. Typically packed out the three nights of the week it’s open, Belushi’s terrace, bar area and space out back make for perfect people watching venues. If the martinis and cosmopolitans don’t drain your wallet, the varied food menu is worth a peek, with everything from grilled sweetbread to sushi on offer to satisfy your late-night munchies.

78 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15

Honduras 5333, entre Godoy Cruz y Avenida Juan B Justo (4831 8665/ www.belushi.com.ar). Bus 34, 55, 166. Open from 8pm Thu; from 9pm Fri, Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D

Ferona Club Social Set in a gorgeous house, complete with winding staircase and rooftop terrace, BA’s place to see and be seen (and simply have fun) is just as attractive as the people that frequent it. The secret formula? Excellent music, tasteful decor (including vintage radios) and easily the best caipiroskas in the city. On warmer nights, sip cocktails under the stars, but as the evening turns into morning, the living room downstairs is the place to be: the music gets louder, the crowd gets merrier and the pretty people start dancing. Be prepared to queue at the weekends. Address provided at time of booking (mobile 15 6722 6784). Bus 39, 151, 166. Open Restaurant 9.30-10.30pm Wed-Sat with reservation. Bar 12.30-5am Wed-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2.

Frank’s Bernata With one of the strangest entrance On a busy corner in Palermo Soho lies policies (you have to first enter a phone elegant Bernata, a dimly-lit tapas bar booth and mark a secret code) and with exposed brick walls and authentic decor akin to a private gentlemen’s Spanish dishes scribbled on club, this speakeasy is destined to chalkboards. Start your night with a impress. The striking two-storey bar refreshing Noche de Verano (Martin serves up traditional and Millers, tonic, Cinzano Bianco, signature cocktails; the mandarin orange juice and ginger martini and the cucumber), or slip into an Sazerac (whisky, intimate corner table for angostura bitters, lemon Pre-drink two and tuck into the and absinthe) are lovely Start your night with a perfectly executed tapas twists on the classics. wine tasting at La Cava and mains. As for the decor, money Jufré (Jufré 201), Bar du Uriarte 1610, y seems to have been no Marché (see left) or M Honduras (4833 5514/ object, with booths and Salmuería (see www.bernata.com). Bus menus all covered in soft p80). 34, 39, 55, 140. Open from leather. And if you’re interested in 8.30pm Tue-Sat. Credit AmEx, V, nursing more than one drink all night, MC. Map G2. hopefully money is no object for you either. Consult Facebook and Twitter for the secret code. The Bowie Artisanal beers, quality bar food and a Arévalo 1445, y Niceto Vega (4777 6541/www.franks-bar.com). Bus 39, daily happy hour make Bowie a 168. Open 9pm-4am Wed-Sat. Credit welcome addition to the plethora of Palermo Soho nightspots. However, the AmEx, V. Map H2. D real pull here is the spectacular terrace Isabel that overlooks the rooftops of the In Isabel’s dramatic interior, musicians, barrio – perfect for an evening tipple. actors and model types sip gimlets and Keep your eyes peeled for the opening

TOP TIP!

11am-4am Tue-Thu; 11am-5am Fri, Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. D

Bars

NEW Ser y Tiempo ‘Life is too short to drink bad wines’ declares the chalkboard at this Palermo wine bar. Fortunately, Ser y Tiempo doesn’t waste any time serving less than fantastic vinos. Better yet, every Wednesday the bar invites a top vineyard to host a tasting; AR$50 gets you four samplings, hors d’oeuvres and an education on colour, smell and terroir. If learning the difference between cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon isn’t in your sights though, stop by from Monday to Friday for the stellar happy hour deal of half price glasses of wine until 9pm. Gorriti 5910, y Ravignani. (4774 3958/www.serytiempo.com.ar). Bus 39, 57, 93, 108, 111, 140, 151. Open 7pm-1am daily. No credit cards. Map H2. The Bowie (see p78)

mai tais, and do a sterling job of looking like they’re each starring in their own perfume advert. Quality trumps quantity on the sushi menu – and out back, a fire-lit patio adds to the sensual experience. Cocktails start at AR$85, but are absolutely worth it. Don’t overdo it though, or you’ll end up lost in the hall-of-mirrors bathroom. Uriarte 1664, entre Honduras y El Salvador (4834 6969/www.isabelbar. com). Bus 34, 39, 166. Open 9pm-4am Tue-Thu; 9pm-5am Fri, Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D Leitmotiv What more could you want in a bar than a bunch of hot hipster chicks in retro dresses carrying around hand-held blow torches to light unique hand-crafted drinks? Head up to the rooftop bar, tell the bartender what you want, and have her make you a refreshing concoction, like the #889: Príncipe de los Apóstoles gin (locally-made Argentinian gin), Hesperidina, lime juice, tonic, orange oil and rosemary smoke. Cabrera 5696, y Bonpland (4777 0743). Bus 39, 93. Open from 8.30pm Wed-Sat. Credit V. Map H2. D

NEW M Salumería Right next door to M Bar (see p56), this brand new venture is a cosy bar-cum-café-cum-shop packed with the finer things in life: wines from Italy, Argentina and other parts of South America, aperitifs, high-quality pastas, olives and pastries. Wine tastings led by sommelier Mariana Torta are on Fridays at 6.30pm, and AR$150 allows you to sample roughly four wines, plus a selection of tasty cheeses and the incredible salami that hangs enticingly from the bar. Groups of eight or more should enquire about personalised after-hours events. El Salvador 5777, y Carranza (4778 0655). Bus 39, 57, 93, 108, 111, 140, 166, 168. Open noon-5pm Mon; noon-9pm Tue-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. D

Magdalena’s Party Magdalena’s Party is the primary watering hole of English-speaking expats. It’s not only the two-for-one drink specials and chance to practise their mother tongue that keeps them coming though; the menu serves American classics like burritos, onion rings and nachos just the way gringos like them (they even have ‘real’ bacon here). Sunday morning sees brunch specials and jugs of mimosas going out to every table. DJs spin indie and hip hop tunes from Thursday to Saturday, with happy hour specials running from noon to midnight. Thames 1795, y Costa Rica (4833 9127/www.magdalenasparty.com). Bus 39. Open 11am-2am Tue, Wed; 11am-4am Thu, Fri; noon-4am Sat; noon-5pm Sun. No credit cards. Map G3. D Mundo Bizarro An institution since 1997, Mundo Bizarro is one of BA’s all-time great hedonistic, rocking hotspots with a sharp red and black interior and over 50 expertly crafted cocktails. Drink specials change monthly, with both classics cocktails and original concoctions on the rotation. As for the food, a selection ofTex-Mex fare is served. Occasional deals are offered earlier on, but the place doesn’t really heat up until after 1am. From then on it’s a heady mix of music and sociable people with plenty of rock style. Serrano 1222, y Avenida Córdoba (4773 1967). Bus 15, 39, 55, 140, 151, 168. Open 8pm-3am Mon-Wed; 8pm-4am Thu; 8pm-5am Fri, Sat. No credit cards. Map G2. D

NEW NOLA Gastropub New Orleanian Liza Puglia and her porteño boyfriend Francisco ‘Ticol’ Terren have brought the best of their closed-door restaurant – home-brewed artisan beer and Cajun chicken with a Mexican twist – to the happy punters of this happening little hotspot in Palermo Viejo. Kicks come in the form of the explosively spicy gumbo, juicy

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fried chicken and coleslaw and Terren’s intense, yet balanced brews. Add Puglia’s picante sauces, and the rustic yet funky interior and it’s no wonder this place is bursting at the seams most nights. Be sure to drop in for happy hour from 5pm to 8pm for AR$30 pints and keep an eye on the Facebook page for news of pop-up events. Gorriti 4389, y Julián Álvarez (mobile 15 5348 4509/www.nolabuenosaires. com). Bus 15, 39, 99, 110, 168. Open 6pm-midnight Mon, Wed-Sun. No credit cards. Map F2. D Rey de Copas Pass through the tiled dining room and pretty patio and you’ll discover a bar like no other in the city. Hitting the ethno-chic nail firmly on the head, this romantically lit, cavernous space is decorated with a mishmash of antique pieces: Tibetan masks, Venetian marionettes and 19th-century French tiles all look like they belong together. It’s hardly any wonder this place oozes style – the owner is the son of Uruguay’s best-known artist, Carlos Páez Vilaró. Gorriti 5176, entre Thames y Uriarte (2068 5220). Bus 39, 55, 168. Open 8pm-4am Tue-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D Río Café This resto-bar’s interior is all sumptuous brown leather, armchairs and floor-to-ceiling mirrors: think sultry 1940s saloon updated for the young and chic. At the bar the menu is, for the most part, adventurous but sophisticated, with twists on classic cocktails like the Cherry Collins. And instead of the Argentinian favourite mix of fernet and Coke, you’ll find a Chic Fernet – fernet, orange juice, fresh thyme and tonic. Come Wednesday night, Rocking Rio (www.facebook. com/rockingrioba) is the place to be. BA’s most beautiful turn out for the weekly event to listen to DJs and sip cocktails on the leafy patio. Honduras 4772, entre Malabia y Armenia (4832 2318/www.riocafe.com. ar). Bus 15, 34, 39, 151, 168. Open

The Shanghai Dragon The people behind BA’s most popular pubs – the Bangalore (see p78) and Gibraltar (see p76) – have done it again, this time on a quiet residential Palermo street, and with a Chinese twist. Blood-red walls, carpeted floors, lots of beer on tap and good value Chinese grub make The Shanghai Dragon a down-to-earth hangout for those sick of Palermo ponce. Large plates of Chinese food make a decent meal or two, and at a price that justifies buying another round of pints. There’s no pretension here: in authentic pub style, it’s just decent indie and reggae tunes and plenty of buena onda. Aráoz 1199, y Mason (4778 1053). Bus 39, 110. Open noon-3am daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D Soria Soria is a favourite thanks to its combination of haven-like garden setting, mood lighting, on-the-beat music and friendly staff who ensure this unpretentious watering hole feels as laid-back as your hipster friend’s backyard. The finger-licking calamares go down nicely with the reasonably priced drinks, as up-and-coming DJs spin their stuff for a crowd of dapper twentysomethings. Gorriti 5151, entre Thames y Uriarte (4832 1745). Bus 39, 151, 168. Open from 8pm Tue-Thu; from 9pm Fri, Sat. No credit cards. Map G2. D Verne Club Master mixologist and owner Fede Cuco drew his inspiration from Jules Verne for this retro-fabulous Palermo bar. The menu itself is a trip around the world, with a section dedicated to drinks inspired by all the cities Phileas Fogg visited, like the Jazmín Blanco from Bombay (honey, lemon, cardamom, gin and jasmine tea) and the Londoninspired Breakfast Martini (gin, cointreau, lemon and marmalade). You’d never guess from the elegant interior that hot dogs were on the menu, but El Camino de Francia, with caramelised onion, goat’s cheese and mustard mayo is tastier than any hot dog ought to be.

Top 5 artisanal beer bars

Bars

EZEQUIEL POCCARD

Cervecería Nacional

Cervecería Nacional Cervecería Nacional packs the plus points into its small, simple interior. It has one of the best happy hours in town (two pints for AR$45 between 6.30pm and 8.30pm), a rubia, roja and IPA on tap and around 50 other varieties of bottled beer stacked high on the shelves. Soak up all that booze with a stellar lamb empanada or Tuesday night’s special of bondiola y papas bravas. Arévalo 1588 (4771 3383/www. facebook.com/cervecerianacionalbar). Buena Birra Social Club Housed in a refurbished home in Colegiales, Buena Birra Social Club feels like a packed private party. The crowds delight in the three staple beers: Golden, Stout and IPA, plus three concoctions that vary according to what brewmaster Ariel Golia is cooking up in the shed out back. Arrive early for the happy hour special of two pints for AR$55 (6-8pm Wed-Sat; 6-9pm Sun) and don’t leave without sampling one of the picadas or a Pinta Trifle in the beer garden. Zapiola 1353 (mobile 15 6428 3457/ www.buenabirrasocialclub.com). Bodega Cervecera This shop and bar stocks over 80 bottled beers plus eight on tap by local breweries Guillon, Cork and Queztal. Settle in at one of the outdoor tables and get sampling. With a happy hour that lasts all night (two pints for AR$60 on Tuesdays

and Wednesdays, and two for AR$70 from Thursday to Saturday), you might find yourself there longer than expected. Owner Sebastián Piñol will happily advise anyone who’s not sure what to try. El Salvador 5100 (4883 3770/www. bodegacervezera.com.ar). The Beer House Experience Run by the beer experts in charge of the Centro de Cata de Cerveza, The Beer House Experience is a closed-door restaurant for serious lovers of cerveza. The set menu includes a three-course dinner made with – you guessed it – beer. But the stars of the show are the seven home-made brews, and since the AR$200 price includes as much beer as you can drink, you’ve no excuse not to try them all. Reservations are essential. Carlos Calvo 555 (4307 6315/www. beerhouseexperience.com). Jerome Brew Pub Originally from Mendoza, Jerome Brew Pub has brought the best of the Andes to Buenos Aires. The beer is made from Andean crystal glacier water and the Arcangel line is aged in wine barrels to give it an acidic, fruity tinge. Decorated with owner Eduardo Maccari’s collection of beer paraphernalia from around the world, Jerome is a fun, modern spot for an after-office pint, chilled evening or a first date. Malabia 1401 (6519 3445/www. facebook.com/jeromebrewpubpalermo).

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Medrano 1475, y Costa Rica (4822 0980). Bus 39, 141, 160. Open 9pm-2am Sun-Wed; 9pm-4am Thu-Sat. Credit V. Map G4.

!Victoria Brown Only those in the loop will know to skip Victoria Brown’s café and head straight to the bar, the entrance to which is camouflaged by a brick wall. Once inside, you’ll find an extravaganza of industrial chic and steampunk decor, dotted with portraits of none other than Queen Victoria. The menu presents some rather complex concoctions – a flavour compass is included, labeling drinks as herbal and dry, delicate and refreshing or strong and seductive – but the cocktails are served in refreshingly simple and elegant glasses. Book ahead if you plan to eat and, no matter the occasion, dress to impress. Costa Rica 4827, y Jorge Luis Borges (4831 0831/www.victoriabrownbar. com). Bus 34, 36, 39. Open 9pm-4am Wed-Sat. Credit MC, V. Map G3. D Wherever Bar This welcoming pub just off Avenida Santa Fe is an oasis of calm in the early evening. Here, whiskey is the spirit of choice. The 140 bottles range from the aged (and pricey) Macallan to more affordable classics like Jameson. Non-whiskey drinkers can still take advantage of the drink promotions from 6pm to 9pm Monday to Friday, which include a variety of cocktails, and the tapas menu is sure to please everyone, no matter their poison. Santamaría de Oro 2476, y Avenida Santa Fe (4777 8029). Subte D, Palermo/bus 10, 12, 15, 29, 34, 36. Open from 5pm Mon-Fri; from 8.30pm Sat, Sun. Credit V. Map G4. D

Almagro and Villa Crespo 878 Often listed by local bartenders as their favourite cocktail bar, 878 retains its legendary status as one of the city’s top drinking holes. Ring the bell at the unmarked door and you’ll be shown into a slick, low-lit space – a call back to its earlier days as a speakeasy. As it’s no longer as clandestino as it used to be (Fridays and Saturdays are packed) pop in earlier during the week for a more casual drink and dinner., or Happy Hour from 7pm to 9pm Monday to Friday. Stellar cocktails and atmosphere have helped this bar into the ranks of many a night owl’s top ten. Thames 878, entre Loyola y Aguirre, Villa Crespo (4773 1098/www.878bar. com.ar). Bus 55. Open from 7pm daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D

Guarda la Vieja This local Almagro hotspot fills at the weekend with actors performing in the nearby theatres and an arty twenty- to thirtysomething crowd. The exposed brickwork is complimented by colourful canvases painted by local artists and projections of reggae

videos in the background. But what calls for the most attention here is the tasty, affordable food: the meat empanadas are a speciality, as are the picadas that include the usual ham and cheese spread along with sweet potato chips and squid rings. A play on the name of the street on which it is located, ‘Guarda la Vieja’ means ‘beware of the old woman’, but there’s nothing to be warned of here. Billinghurst 699, y Guardia Vieja, Almagro (4863 7923). Subte B, Carlos Gardel/bus 92, 128. Open from 6pm daily. No credit cards. Map F2. D Lo de Roberto Step back in time to the BA of yesteryear in this historic bar on a far-flung corner of Plaza Almagro. It’s the former watering hole of Carlos Gardel, but the star here nowadays is 83-year-old Osvaldo Peredo, a faded tango singer who is enjoying a renaissance among a devoted crowd of young people. A bullet hole in the front window and an ancient manual cash register provide the perfect backdrop for Peredo’s crude, lunfardo-laced tangos that are lapped up by fernet-and-coke-sipping university students. Other equally impassioned crooners perform on other nights, from around 11.30pm. Bulnes 331, y Perón, Almagro. Subte B, Medrano/bus 124, 160, 168. Open 6pm-3am Tue-Fri; 10pm-3am Sat. No credit cards. Map E2.

!Sr Duncan Something magical happens when you enter Sr Duncan. Ring the bell on the unsigned door, then glide up the staircase to an art nouveau mansion replete with high ceilings and stained-glass windows. A swing jazz band could be playing in one corner, a maestro might be tinkling on the grand piano or a couple might be dancing tango. You might think you’ve been transported to another era, especially when you see the food and drink prices, which are a pre-inflationary steal. Check Sr Duncan’s Facebook page for the packed schedule of events. Avenida Rivadavia 3832, y Salguero, Almagro (4958 3633/www.facebook. com/SeniorDuncan). Subte A, Castro Barros/bus 8. Open 7pm-5am Mon-Sat. No credit cards. Map E1. D

Belgrano Puerta Uno Knock a few times on the discreet black door off Belgrano’s Chinatown, and you might think you were in the wrong place. But once inside, the loud music, dim lighting and open-air patios make this secret nightspot a thoroughly buzzing venue. The drinks menu glitters with original touches like the Cucumber Collins and the Absolut Red Hot, while food options include pizzas and picadas. The secret’s out, however, so be sure to make a reservation. Juramento 1667, y Montañeses (4706 1522/www.puertauno.com). Bus 15, 80, 130. Open 7.30pm-4.30am Tue-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. D

Bars Time Out Insidersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15 83

Clubs

From chic to cheap, Gill Harris designs itineraries to suit every kind of night owl. Illustrations by Gustavo Guevara

previa

club

after

Start the night with sophistication in the sleek, sumptuous interior of The Library Lounge (see p74). Expect to brush shoulders with celebs at this bar located inside the Faena (see p154), the most prestigious of all the Buenos Aires hotels. Sink back into the plush velvet chairs and enjoy a cocktail or two accompanied by the weekend’s excellent live bands, as you admire the decadent chandeliers twinkling overhead.

After a few glasses of champagne, drift leisurely upriver with other Puerto Madero socialites to Asia de Cuba (see p86). The chic sushi menu comes with prices to match, which, along with a AR$150 entrance fee, helps this ritzy restobarcum club fish out any riff-raff from the glamorous pool of executives who come to fritter away their hefty salaries on a night of serious partying.

Grab a choripán from one of the many stands on the Costanera Sur to soak up the lingering alcohol, then finish your lavish night out at Casino Puerto Madero (Avenida Elvira Rawson de Delleplane, 4363 3100, www.casinopuertomadero.com.ar). A complex of two enormous four-storey boats, this floating casino is open 24/7 making it a haven for hard-core gamblers and aspiring 007s, who can bet away their dollars on the VIP floor.

Once you’re sufficiently tanked up and ready to let off some steam, continue the night at Levitar (see p88). A popular spot for its relaxed atmosphere, the club’s indoor-outdoor patio attracts many local punters who come for the house music and bargainous pitchers of beer and Campari. Entry is free before 2am.

Still got some fire in your belly? Challenge your friends to an early morning ping-pong contest at 24-hour café Los Billares (Avenida Corrientes 5436, 4855 3956), known on the street as Café San Bernardo. This porteño haunt is 103 years old and popular with indie kids, who crowd round the many ping-pong and pool tables.

Over in Microcentro, grungy electro dive Cocoliche (see p86) takes the concept of underground to a whole new level. Die-hard electro fanatics travel from far and wide in order to abandon themselves to the psychedelic UV lighting and minimalist bass line, deep in the cavernous depths of Buenos Aires.

If you’re keen to continue the party well into daylight hours, make your way across town to La Piramide (Humboldt 1578, 2075 1287) where things will just be kicking off at daybreak. As iconic a venue as its namesake monument (situated in Plaza de Mayo), this club boasts the coolest DJs and a reputation as the best after-party in town.

From Magdalena’s, head to Kika (see p88), a notorious Buenos Aires late-night spot. Tuesday nights are when this club really comes into its own, as hoards of energetic clubbers descend for Kika’s most popular event of the week. Known as Hype, Tuesday night’s party sees a lively buffet of electro, R&B, dubstep and drum’n’ bass.

Those in need of some serious grub after a few hours of dancing should stop off at Siniór Schwarma (Honduras 5238, 4834 6118, www. siniorshawarma.com), just a stumble across the road from Kika. When you reach the 5am post-club haze, these kebabs are guaranteed to hit the spot.

At El Álamo (Córdoba 5267, 4778 1726) your pesos will go a long way and the drinking will go on well into the night. Entry is AR$70, but once inside exchange your tokens for jugs of beer so large you will feel drunk just looking at them. And if that doesn’t do the trick, tequila shots are dangerously cheap at just AR$2.

Hidden away in unassuming Almagro, arty bar Sr Duncan (see p78) doesn’t even have a sign up outside to let you know it’s there. However, don’t be fooled by (lack-of) appearances: the buzzing vibe, affordable prices and wide range of live music from salsa to swing make it the favourite spot of many in-the-know locals.

Feeling homesick? At Magdalena’s Party (see p76) Anglophones are guaranteed to hear the comforting sounds of the mother tongue mingling with the eclectic soundtrack. The extensive American-style menu and two-for-one happy hour specials until midnight keep expats and locals coming back to this colourful haunt.

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Clubs

The scene

If you want to go clubbing in Buenos Aires, get used to having a disco nap before you hit the town. Clubs don’t really get going till 3am, and you don’t want to be called the mother of all Argentinian insults: an aguafiestas (party pooper) by going home before the sun comes up. For the full BA clubbing experience, which includes pre-party drinks, showing off your moves on the dancefloor and then partying past dawn at an after, organise your night with Time Out’s club crawl (see p84). To party like a VIP, let Night Aires (www.night-aires.com) get you much-coveted passes for the city’s hippest haunts, or see the tips on nabbing yourself a private table and personalised service (see p90). Cheapskates can usually dodge paying the club entry fee by getting on the guest list. Some nightclubs offer a list by way of email or Facebook, while for others you may have to snag a wristband from lurking promoters. You can gain free entrance to Tuesday’s popular Hype night at Kika (see p88) by picking up a wristband from gringo hangout Magdalena’s Party (see p80) between 10pm and 2am. Whether you’re planning to party every night of the week, or are just looking for some mid-week fun, check the weekly clubbing guide (see p88), as well as websites www.buenosaliens. com and www.nightclubber.com.ar. From Thursday’s outlandish extravaganza at Niceto Club’s (see p90) Club 69, to megaclubs like Liv (see p88), Rosebar (Honduras 5445) and Wanna (Avenida Juan B Justo 1636), there’s a fiesta for every type of party animal in this city.

Venues

descends for the electronic music and stays late. It packs in executives and tourists from swanky nearby hotels drawn to the sushi, decent (if pricey) drinks, deep house and, on Saturdays, live music. Dress to impress and get ready to splash out. Admission costs AR$150 and includes a drink. Pierina Dealessi 750, y Macacha Güemes, Puerto Madero Este (4894 1328/www.asiadecuba.com.ar). Bus 4, 20, 111, 130, 152, 195. Open Restaurant 12.30pm-6am Wed-Sat. Club 1-6am Wed-Sat. Map B5. Bahrein Swish Bahrein is party central for electro-heads, with the basement of this grand former bank pumping out all manner of house, techno and electronic beats three nights a week. Saturdays usually play host to an international DJ and see attendees flit between the glam Funky Room and the basement, where the party-hungry energy is concentrated. Lavalle 345, entre Reconquista y 25 de Mayo, Microcentro (4314 8886/www. bahreinba.com). Subte B, LN Alem/bus 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 10, 17, 28, 93. Open from midnight Wed, Fri, Sat. Map C5. La Capilla This spectacular former church in Microcentro hosts some of the liveliest parties in the city. Friday’s Fiesta de La Flor combines local reggae bands with dancehall and ska beats, while Saturdays vary between rock nacional and acid house nights from the Psyrockers Crew. Suipacha 842, entre Avenida Córdoba y Paraguay, Microcentro (mobile 15 5114 6481). Subte C, San Martín/bus 5, 6, 59, 60, 140. Open from 10pm Thu-Sat. Map D5. Club Aráoz With a space big enough to hold over 1,000 clubgoers, five bars under its

roof, and plasma and LED TVs throughout the entire venue, it’s safe to say that Club Aráoz can handle whatever gets thrown its way. Despite the huge capacity, there’s nothing to say the multi-tiered club won’t fill up quickly with trendy young clubbers clamouring to dance to the latest Latin, reggaeton and dance hits. The party-hungry crowd gets going as early as 11.30pm (which is indeed quite early for BA), but the fashionably late ladies can still get in cover-free until 3am, and gents until 2.30am. Aráoz 2424, entre Güemes y Avenida Santa Fe, Palermo (4832 9751/www. clubaraoz.com.ar). Subte D, Scalabrini Ortíz/bus 12, 15, 29, 36, 39, 57, 111. Open from 1am Fri; from 11pm Sat. Map F4.

Cocoliche The biggest name in Buenos Aires’s underground night scene is über-cool Cocoliche, a favourite with young local punters and party-hardy foreigners who take their electro very seriously. Minimal house and drum ’n’ bass pound the good-natured crowd to a trance-like pulp in the crammed, airless basement while happy boozers line the street-level bar. The rotating programme features the beatmaster owners in the box and serious international names that draw in a sizeable crowd. Avenida Rivadavia 878, entre Suipacha y Esmeralda, Microcentro (www. facebook.com/Cocoliche). Subte A, Piedras/bus 5, 24, 29, 39, 60, 64, 100, 105, 126, 129. Open from midnight Fri, Sat. Map C4.

Club Severino Crobar While the rest of Buenos Aires is Friday-night crowds hoof it to this slumbering Monday nights away, superclub’s thumping the city’s carefree party crowd debauchery of Be Techno is dancing it up at Club which brings in Severino. The evening international and local features rock, pop and hip Dance on bands, a first-rate crew of hop hits as well as electro Don’t miss music DJs mixing techno and and techno beats spun by festivals Creamfields house tunes, as well as a a line-up of some of the and Ultra. See page rollicking bunch of global city’s top DJs. This club 12. party people of the night has recently moved over-25 variety. Dress is flirty to Bahrein (see p86). Check the and sporty; come with money to website for themed parties as well spare to cover the hefty entrance fee as live rock and hip hop acts. Get in and to purchase some pricey sauce. free before 1am (AR$60 afterwards), Saturday nights see a mix of clubbers, sip a Fernet and coke, then start with cumbia and reggaeton fans making eyes at smooth porteños keen turning out for Keek in the main room, to have an international experience. Around a thousand punters make Club while the small room hosts Rheo (see p136), a gay-friendly electro party. Severino their party of choice after Monday night’s Bomba de Tiempo (see Marcelino Freyre e Infanta Isabel, Paseo de la Infanta, Palermo (4778 p139), and for good reason. Lavalle 345, entre Reconquista y 25 de 1500/www.crobar.com). Bus 10, 34. Open from midnight Fri, Sat. Map G5. Mayo, Microcentro (4314 8886/www. clubseverino.com.ar). Subte B, LN Gong Alem/bus 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 10, 17, 28, 93, Gong has long been on the radar as a 140, 146. Open 11.45pm-6am Mon. hangout for local teens: the central Map C4.

TOP TIP!

Asia de Cuba Wednesday’s Glamour Night is the main event at this swish waterfront resto-club, where a fashionable crowd 86 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15

Liv (see p88)

PABLO ARMANDO MOURIÑO

!Alsina The cathedral-like Alsina is the talk of electro partyland these days, thanks to the hi-fi sound and consistently strong line-up of international names (Gui Boratto, Richie Hawtin, Fedde Legrande, Gareth Emery and Calvin Harris to name a few), which ensure that the 1,500-head capacity is often reached early on in the night. Electro party State takes place once a month on Friday – check the website to find out when the next one will be. Sunday’s Club One attracts an experienced party-hard crowd and is pumping by 10pm. The second level balcony offers a nice vantage point for spying on (and momentarily escaping from) the pulsing mob below. Adolfo Alsina 940, entre Bernardo de Irigoyen y Tacuarí, Monserrat (4331 3231/www.statebsas.com.ar). Subte A, Piedras/bus 10, 17, 59, 70, 86, 91, 98, 129. Open midnight-7am monthly on Fri; 8pm-3am Sun. Map C4.

Weekly agenda Monday at Club Severino

Electro beats, pop and hip hop favourites, and a dancefloor packed with hostel hotties and pretty porteños: start off your BA week with, ahem, a bang. See p86.

Tuesday at Kika

Party with an international crowd who let their hair down to drum ’n’ bass, dubstep, rock, hip hop and electro at Kika’s popular Hype night. See p88.

Clubs

Wednesday at Bahrein and Rio Café

Get down and dirty at Bahrein’s electro basement party Submerged or head to Rio Café for laid-back boogieing on the patio. See p86, p80.

Thursday at Niceto Club and M.O.D. Kika ALEJANDRO SAEZ BLANCO

Pacha (see p90)

location, cheap booze and no-frills beats make for some good times romping around, but perhaps not the BA night out of your wildest dreams. However, thanks to the fab Dengue Dancing, the downtown boliche buzzes on Thursday nights with fun-loving gay kids. DJs get this underground electronic party going and the crowd working up a sweat. The mood shifts on Friday and Saturday nights, which generally attract an older crowd looking to relive their youth with rock music from the 1980s and 1990s. Avenida Córdoba 634, entre Florida y Maipú, Microcentro (4322 0680/www. facebook.com/gongdiscosenior). Subte C, San Martín/bus 10, 17, 22, 93, 111. Open from 11.30pm Thu-Sat. Map C5.

Jet Any ambitious BA clubber has to make a weekly stopover at Jet. Situated along the posh Costanera Norte club circuit, Jet makes a killing three nights a week as hundreds of night owls put on their best threads in the hopes of making the cut (no easy task here, Jet has one of the strictest door policies in BA). Jet’s Thursday night is easily among the best club nights in the capital, attracting easy-on-the-eye locals and foreigners who come for a generous dose of electro fun. Cocktails and tapas in a chilled-out lounge-bar setting get things started, but the night doesn’t really heat up until 3am. Friday – usually a night of rock and house for a slightly younger crowd – is also

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popular, and Jet’s the place to be seen on Saturday nights when house beats pump on late into the night. Free entry until 2am, afterwards AR$200-$350 (includes a drink). Avenida Rafael Obligado 4801, Costanera Norte (4782 5599/ www.jet.com.ar). Bus 45, 152, 160. Open from 11pm Thu-Sat. Map F6. Kika It seems no club in Buenos Aires will ever come close to dethroning Kika as the go-to club on Tuesday nights. Dubbed Hype (www.hype-ba.com), Tuesday’s event attracts a mix of party-hard locals and foreigners who come to dance to hip hop, electro, drum ’n’ bass and a little bit of dubstep and indie rock. Even for those who aren’t in-the-know, Kika’s black and white paint splattered walls and the constant throng of clubbers waiting outside its doors make it fairly clear that something fun is brewing inside. The partying continues on Wednesdays, as a substantial crowd of porteños regularly chooses to end after-office evenings at the club in order to enjoy its biggest electro music night. Come the weekend, DJs reel in large crowds who love to dance to cachengue beats in the front room, while the latest house beats boom across the back dancefloor. Honduras 5339, entre Avenida Juan B Justo y Godoy Cruz, Palermo (4137 5311/www.kikaclub.com.ar). Bus 34, 39, 55, 93, 108, 111, 140, 151, 166. Open 1-6am Tue-Sun. Map G2. Levitar Right in the heart of Palermo, Levitar is a convenient and popular option after hitting up one of the larger, nearby spots. The spacious indooroutdoor patio is a perfect place to gather with some friends. On weekends, there’s an entry charge after 2am (which gets you one drink on the house), but as always in our progressive modern times, ladies get in

Electro mash-ups and a cabaret freak show make Niceto’s Club 69 a night of unbridled fun and debauchery, while M.O.D. has a happening hip hop night full of funky movers. See p90.

Friday at Crobar

Local and foreign DJs spin pure techno and a photogenic, partyhard crowd ushers in the weekend with full force at Crobar’s Be Techno night. See p86.

Saturday at Pacha

The best DJs make their way to Pacha every Saturday, when the huge club pumps with house beats. See p90.

Sunday at Alsina

Expect euphoric hedonism at Club One in the form of hard house, exotic dancers and ecstatic partygoers bathing in balloons and confetti. See p86.

free of charge. Godoy Cruz 1715, entre Honduras y Gorriti, Palermo (4833 9030/www. levitarba.com). Bus 34, 39, 55, 108, 140, 111. Open from 10pm Wed-Sat. Map G2. Liv Every night, clubbers migrate to the nightclubs lining Avenida Juan B Justo, at the intersection of Palermo Hollywood and Soho. Of those clubbers, all the young, beautiful twentysomethings line up at Liv. If you like your nights out to be full-body experiences – light on conversation and heavy on pumping beats and people-watching – then Liv’s Friday night should be just your can of Speed. Guest DJs spin electro beats while deep red lighting casts the evening in naughty hues. Saturdays move to a Latin beat, with cachengue and reggaeton keeping the crowd moving. Avenida Juan B Justo 1658, entre Cabrera y Gorriti, Palermo (mobile 15 6838 8228). Bus 34, 39, 140. Open 11pm-6am Fri, Sat. Map H2.

Clubs

GUIDO ADLER

Bands rock out at The Roxy Live’s Glamnation party

Balcarce 563, entre Venezuela y Mandarine Club México, San Telmo (www.modclub.com. This riverside spot is brought to BA’s ar). Bus 22, 29, 33, 61, 74, 86, 93, clubbers by the people of Crobar, so 103, 111. Open 11.45pm-7am you’ll be in safe hands here – these Thu-Sat. Map B4. guys know how to throw a party. At Mandarine they aim to pump new !Niceto Club energy into the city’s electronic scene, One of the most sure-fire spots in town with an atmosphere influenced by the to get down, Niceto powers on with a clubs of Paris and Berlin. A typical packed roster in each of its two rooms. Friday night draws in crowds of fashionable twentysomething designer Thursday’s glittering freak magnet Club 69 is an absolute must – the types and rockers partying to pumping crowd made up mainly of cachengue and reggaeton. The venue in-the-know foreigners rings in the has two large spaces – a terrace and a weekend early with a full-on, main room – so no matter how sweaty jaw-dropping show of strippers, you get you’ll find a way to cool down. breakdancers and majestic drag queens Saturdays see international DJs spin bopping in time to the eclectic electro trance and techno. beats. Friday’s Invasión fiesta draws in Punta Carrasco, Avenida Costanera fun-loving throngs for live indie Norte y Sarmiento, Costanera bands followed by cumbia Norte (4806 8002/www. electrónica, pop and rock, mandarineclub.com). Bus while Saturday sees a 33, 37, 45, 152, 160. rotating line-up of acts Open from midnight Sorry boys Fri, Sat. Map G6. Women usually pay less and DJs, including electro-centric to get into clubs than men, and some places Undertones. M.O.D Variete Club It’s not hard to see where even waive the girls’ fee Niceto Vega 5510, entre Humboldt y Fitz Roy, entirely. M.O.D Variete Club gets Palermo (4779 9396/ its name – this club’s weekly www.nicetoclub.com). Bus 34, line-up is as varied as they come. 39, 93, 140, 151, 166, 168. Open On Friday nights M.O.D vibrates with the latest house and electro tunes, while 9pm-6am Thu-Sat. Map H2. on Saturdays local edgy teens head-bang to classic rock and indie Pacha mixes. The jewel in the crown though is Perched on the Costanera Norte, Pacha, with its gleaming white walls Thursday night’s hip-hop party LOST, and waterfront views, is impossible undoubtedly one of the best Buenos to miss. It remains quiet all week, Aires has to offer. Also keep an eye on until Saturday night kicks in and the Facebook page for details on the next Beatles Party – one of Argentina’s chic clubbers trek out to its sweaty, rollicking dance pit, with no Beatles tribute events, which, though intention of emerging until the sun taken very seriously, are as much fun comes up. International names from as they sound.

TOP TIP!

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the DJ stratosphere, including Popof, Jamie Jones, Dubfire and Chuckie, keep the party-hard dance fiends (including a fair share of hot musclemen and augmented model types) going until the bright and early hours of the morning. Those pretty and rich enough to go VIP have more chilled-out options at their disposal. Avenida Rafael Obligado 6151, Costanera Norte (4788 4280/www. pachabuenosaires.com). Bus 28, 33, 34, 37, 45, 152, 160. Open from 10pm Sat. Map G6. Palermo Club A far cry from the fancy rags and classy cocktails of places like Asia de Cuba, this renovated bailanta – a nightclub playing cumbia music – attracts an alternative porteño crowd who come for the monthly party La Mentirosa, when local cumbia inspired bands play. Jorge Luis Borges 2454, entre Avenida Santa Fe y Güemes, Palermo (4774 3101/www.facebook.com/palermo.club). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 10, 12, 29, 39, 111, 141, 152, 194. Open from 11.30pm Fri, Sat. Map G4. Podestá Set in the heart of Palermo Soho, this unpretentious two-floor club with a large terrace brings a refreshing change to the Buenos Aires clubbing scene. Attracting mainly laid-back, local folk, this club is not about who’s wearing what but instead just about having a blooming good time. A generous happy hour (11pm-1am) and other drink promotions get punters merry, while resident DJs spin rock,

house and popular remixes of old-school classics. Armenia 1740, entre Costa Rica y El Salvador, Palermo (4832 2776/www. podestafotos.com). Bus 15, 39, 55, 140, 151, 160, 168. Open from 11pm Thu-Sat. Map G3. The Roxy Live With a killer weekend line-up featuring two smash-hit club nights for the young and the restless, The Roxy Live is on top of its game. The spacious lounge area is perfect for relaxing into

Recommended VIP clubbing

For those with a healthy bank balance and a commitment to drinking their way through the top shelf of a club’s bar, reserving a VIP table is the only way to go. Expect personalised service, drinks in proper glasses and a space to toast your luck away from the throb of the dancefloor. Most VIP tables cost around AR$5000 for a group of five to eight people and include free entrance, the same amount of money to spend on booze and the table itself. Prices vary according to the event; for a night with top DJs, you’re more likely to pay AR$5000 for six people, with AR$4000 to spend on alcohol. Clubs such as Crobar (see p86), Pacha (see p90), Jet (see p88), Tequila (Avenida Costanera Norte y La Pampa, 4781 6555) and Liv (see p88) all offer this service. Contact the club’s PR (usually advertised on flyer and facebook) to make a reservation.

LUCIO ALVAREZ LASTRA

com.ar). Subte D, Callao/bus 5, 10, 12, 111, 132, 140, 150, 152. Open 7pm-2am Thu; 9.30pm-6am Fri, Sat. Map D5.

Clubs

Nightlife index Bars

Jet (see p88)

a cushy couch, knocking back a couple of cocktails and keeping an eye on the stage happenings (usually too-hip-tocare bands and VJs) before stepping out to boogie. Drop in for Friday’s Roxtar rock fiesta or Saturday’s Sympathy for the Party featuring live music then DJs afterwards. If you’re more partial to folk and indie sounds, hit Thursday night’s Underclub. Niceto Vega 5542, y Humboldt, Palermo (4777 0997/www.theroxybar. com.ar). Bus 39, 93, 140, 151, 168. Open from 8pm Thu-Sat. Map H2. !Shamrock Basement An Irish pub/electro club in posh Recoleta? Unlikely, perhaps, but a winning combo. This spot is the product of some serious nightlife know-how, and brings in some of the city’s top turntable talent in an ever-changing, hand-picked roster focusing on electronica and deep house. It’s one of the few clubs that gets busy early, especially on Thursdays, thanks in part to the cheery happy hour drink specials in the moody upstairs pub (see p76). Shamrock basement is one of the best places to be during the key hours

of 3am to 6am, when the club is usually rocking with a mix of locals, tourists wandering down from upstairs and some of the hardiest clubbers from the BA night scene. The admission fee (AR$45-$65 for men, AR$30-$50 for women) includes a drink. The Shamrock, Rodríguez Peña 1220, entre Juncal y Arenales, Recoleta (4812 3584). Bus 10, 12, 17, 39, 59, 60, 106, 108, 111, 124, 132, 152. Open Bar from 6.30pm, Thu-Sat. Club from midnight Thu-Sat. Map E5. Unicorn Huset Despite there being dozens of crowded bars in the area, Unicorn Huset, which lies behind unmarked doors, is the one that punters are prepared to queue for. With a more relaxed vibe than some of the megaclubs, Unicorn Husset is a great option for those who want to boogie without dressing up to the nines. It has monochrome walls, intimate seating and a spacious deck, and fills to capacity each weekend with easy-on-the-eye twenty- and thirtysomethings who check each other (and themselves) out while sipping cocktails and mini-bowls of sparkling

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wine. As the night turns into morning, the dancefloor heaves with beautiful people who are deadly serious about having a good time. Honduras 5730, entre Bonpland y Carranza, Palermo (www.unicornhuset. com). Bus 39, 93, 111, 140, 151, 166. Open 9pm-4.30am Wed-Sun. Map H2. You Know My Name This pumped-up lounge is the rather grimy, yet fun-filled haunt of indie-hipsters and rockers. Sip a fruity cocktail on couches under a wall of TV monitors while the VJ (that’s right, no DJs here) projects quirky music videos – think early-1990s Eurotrash electronica, Madonna’s True Blue era and contemporary pop. The two rooms usually focus on different decades, one might play 1970s classics, the other 1990s dance. Make a reservation beforehand so you can tuck in to a decent dinner for AR$100, then stay on for the evening free of charge. The clubbing-only set will have to pay AR$50 after 1.30am. Marcelo T de Alvear 1540, entre Montevideo y Paraná, Tribunales (4811 4730/www.youknowmyname.

878 Antares The Bangalore Pub & Curry House Bar du Marché BASA Bar The Beer House Experience Belushi Bernata Bodega Cervecera The Bowie Buena Birra Social Club Cerveceria Nacional Chupitos La Cigale Leitmotiv Doppelgänger Ferona Club Social Festival Florería Atlántico Frank’s Gibraltar Guarda la Vieja Isabel Jerome Brew Pub Krakow The Library Lounge M Salumería Magdalena’s Party Milión Mundo Bizarro NOLA Gastropub La Poesía Pony Line Bar La Puerta Roja Puerta Uno Rey de Copas Lo de Roberto Río Café Rubik Ser y Tiempo Será de Dios The Shamrock The Shanghai Dragon The Steve Soria Sr Duncan Verne Club Victoria Brown Wherever Bar

82 76 78 78 74 82 78 78 82 78 82 82 78 74 80 74 78 74 74 78 76 82 78 82 76 76 80 80 76 80 80 76 76 76 82 80 82 80 76 80 76 76 80 78 80 82 80 82 82

Clubs Alsina Asia de Cuba Bahrein La Capilla Club Aráoz Club Severino Cocoliche Crobar Gong Jet Kika Levitar Liv Mandarine Club M.O.D. Variete Club Niceto Club Pacha Palermo Club Podestá The Roxy Live Shamrock Basement Unicorn Huset You Know My Name

86 86 86 86 86 86 86 86 86 88 88 88 88 90 90 90 90 90 90 90 92 92 92

Clubs Time Out InsidersÂ´ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15 93

Shopping Shopping listings Shopping index

Photograph: Salm贸n Tienda by Ezequiel Poccard

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EZEQUIEL POCCARD

Shopping

Bags from Bastardo BA at Tupã

Soho no more

Sophie Parker explores BA’s newest shopping havens

hese days, you can’t take a step in the area controversially baptised Palermo Soho without going goggle-eyed at competing window displays, or falling over the pavement chalkboard of an ironically chintzy café, complete with inspirational quote and doggie parking. The paint-by-numbers aesthetic of businesses in the trendy barrio has even spawned an adjective: from Abasto to Villa Urquiza, anywhere serving cupcakes on mismatched crockery is saddled with the term Palermitano. Truth be told, those businesses are probably hoping to attract some of the popular neighbourhood’s success. But for many, what started off as a cradle of innovation and independent design has morphed into a magnet for bland brands and cookie-cutter cafés that consistently draw hordes of undiscerning shoppers. The now incongruous mechanic’s workshops that remain on the fringes of the area’s most commercial streets give some sense of what this part of Palermo was like before earning the Soho epithet. At the end of the last century and during the early years of this one, independent designers and entrepreneurs began setting up studios and shops in the barrio. Big name brands were soon

scrambling to situate themselves in the city’s hottest spot; now the increases in rent and lack of neighbourhood tranquility – at least on weekends – means that some business owners have migrated to other parts of town. And many of those setting up shop for the first time don’t even consider Palermo Soho: besides prohibitive rents, standing out in these saturated streets is a challenge. With that in mind, up-and-coming designers are opening in quieter barrios like Colegiales, lower Belgrano and pretty Palermo Botánico. Colegiales is where Emilce Elías, owner of homeware and decor boutique Coucou (Freire 1302, 4554 8776, www.micoucou.blogspot.com.ar) upped sticks to in 2012, abandoning Palermo’s calle Gurruchaga. The shop is a colourful surprise among the mostly residential buildings surrounding it. Colegiales has lately attracted other small stores and designers’ appointment-only showrooms, and there’s a sense of recreating the independent spirit that once inhabited Palermo Soho in this peaceful neighbourhood.

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Despite the name, which translates as caravan, Casa Rodante (Virrey Loreto 3308, www. casarodantecosas.com) has been firmly settled in a small space off a carpenter’s workshop since 2013. Open on Thursdays and Fridays from 4pm and Saturdays from 11am to 3pm, the diminutive shop features vintage furniture, one-off decor items and pieces like charming crockery with marine motifs. At Kom (Conesa 600, 3971 1440, www.komware.com), where Pablo Ferraro’s irresistible prints feature on cushions, bags, notebooks, children’s clothes, women’s T-shirts and other products, the studio and shop share floor space in a quiet area of Colegiales that has little chance of being overrun with hip watering holes any time soon. Inside, there is a sense that this is just as much a creative as a commercial space. Kom’s success, though, means that a second store is currently being considered. Pablo is certain it won’t be in Palermo Soho, however. While he rightly notes that there are still good things to be found there – Time Out’s favourite spots include Patrón (see p108), Libros del Pasaje (see p103), Blackmamba

Standing out in these saturated streets is a challenge

(see p105) and Galería Mar Dulce (see p128) – he is instead looking for a location that retains more of a neighbourhood feel. In the adjoining barrio Belgrano R, the team behind Reunión (see p108) cites the everyday life in the leafy streets around the shop as one of the best things about its location. It’s certainly a privileged one, just off the pleasant Plaza Castelli yet sufficiently tucked away so that the shop’s discovery comes as a surprise to casual passers-by. The workshopcum-gallery houses, among other delights, jewellery from Emedemarta, Nido knitwear, Bastardo BA bags, Lola Goldstein’s ceramics and embroidered works like those by Adriana Torres that reflect Reunión’s origins in an embroidery class. Reunión is open regularly on Wednesdays and Thursdays from 2pm to 7pm and on Fridays and Saturdays from 3.30pm to 8.30pm. Inviting itself to be discovered instead of actively broadcasting a presence, Tupã (see p107) is in the Botánico neighbourhood, a short walk from Palermo Soho. The largely residential area boasts parks, a number of museums and, increasingly of late, hot shopping spots. The entrance to Tupã – a resuscitated property flanked by a garden that serves as both store and workshop – bears a discreet sign, an indication of the subtlety and restraint on display inside, where a carefully curated selection of sophisticated accessories, decor items and art works complements the contemporary garments of designers Agustín Yarde Buller, Martín Boerr and Julia Schang-Vitón. Next stop on the cutting-edge fashion circuit is nearby multi-brand store Panorama (see p106), which carries local men’s and womenswear labels like Bandoleiro, Nous Etudions and Urenko, as well as footwear and accessories by Posco, Bellebas and Amarras. Inés Figueroa Alcorta, founder of one of BA’s newest footwear brands Miki & Choya (see p110), also opted for the barrio of Botánico when establishing an appointment-only showroom in which to display her fresh, bold designs. On a busier block, Salmón Tienda (see p104) stops shoppers in their tracks with a window full of colourful homewares and gifts. Pretty ceramics, printed and woven textiles, a collection of locally printed books and artisanally-made baskets crowd shelves and tabletops; and across the street, a second branch stocks womenswear, footwear and accessories by the likes of Benedit Bis, Le Loup and Las Katz. Colegiales may now have its own purveyors of cute macaroons (www. lescroquants.com.ar) and Botánico a bloom of chic coffee shops and a new boulangerie (www.boulan.com.ar) to rival those of Palermo Soho, but the throngs of human traffic are as yet absent, and opportunities to stumble upon hidden retail gems are are rife. So go forth and discover.

The essentials

The Centre

Shopping in the hectic Microcentro is focused on and around the pedestrian calle Florida, with its chain stores, souvenir shops and the popular Galerías Pacífico shopping centre. The area between Retiro and Recoleta encompasses the exclusive Patio Bullrich mall as well as a number of luxury leather goods stores. SHOPPING CENTRES

Galerías Pacífico This shopping centre is housed in a beautiful building decorated with frescoes by five Argentinian muralists. You’ll find famous names such as Lacoste here, along with jewellers Swarovski and local retail stars Ona Saez and Kosiuko. Florida 737, entre Viamonte y Avenida Córdoba (5000 5100/www. galeriaspacifico.com.ar). Subte B, Florida/bus 6, 93, 130, 152. Open Shops 10am-9pm daily. Restaurants 10am-10.30pm Mon-Thu, Sun; 10am-11.30pm Fri, Sat. Credit varies. Map C5.

FASHION – VINTAGE

Vittorita If vintage makes you think of staid, retro threads, try Vittorita’s Congreso showroom for a modern, feminine take on it. Trendy pieces like printed silk shorts and blouses sit alongside woven bags, sandals and old school lingerie. Owners and sisters Pame and Daniela hand-pick every piece for top-notch quality and provide expert styling services to all clientele. Write to them on Facebook to book an appointment, and dedicate your morning to sifting through gorgeous vintage swimsuits before heading off to nearby historic sites like Café Tortoni (see p25) and the Plaza de Mayo (see p118). Address provided at time of booking, Congreso (mobile 15 6721 4062/www. vittorita.com.ar). Subte B, Callao/bus 12, 39. Open 10am-7pm Mon-Sat, by appt. No credit cards. Map D4. JEWELLERY

Plata Nativa Although this small shop, one of many in an unassuming shopping arcade,

might at first appear unremarkable, it’s a treasure trove of indigenous and Latin American art, antique silver and ethnic accessories. The store’s clients include the Rolling Stones, Marc Jacobs and Pedro Almodóvar, who have all been wowed by Marta Campana’s mind-boggling collection. Unit 41, Galería del Sol, Florida 860, entre Avenida Córdoba y Paraguay (4312 1398/www.platanativa.com). Subte C, San Martín/bus 6, 26, 93, 132. Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-2pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C5. LEATHER GOODS

Casa Lopez Well-established Casa Lopez, dedicated to all things leather, is located close to Plaza San Martín. Trenchcoats, jackets, handbags and luggage come in mostly classic styles, and the quality is top-notch. Native leathers such as those from carpincho (a large rodent) and yacaré (a South American caiman) are used in a number of products. Marcelo T de Alvear 640/658, entre Florida y Maipú (4311 3044/ www.casalopez.com.ar). Subte C, San Martín/bus 10, 17, 59. Open 9am-8pm Mon-Fri; 9.30am-7pm Sat; 10am-6pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D6. Other location Galerías Pacífico shopping centre, Microcentro (5555 5241). Prüne Well-established Argentinian brand Prüne is a popular destination for bag fans, and its broad selection of styles ranges from handy holdalls to sparkly evening clutches. Studs, chains, animal prints and textured leathers feature frequently in the trendy collections, which also include wallets, belts, footwear, jackets and coats. Try on a sexy biker jacket and some ankle boots, then top them off with a studded messenger bag.

Florida 963, y Paraguay (4893 2641/ www.prune.com.ar). Subte C, San Martín/bus 70, 91, 106. Open 9.30am-8pm Mon-Sat; 11am-6pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. Other locations Patio Bullrich shopping centre, Recoleta (4814 7437); and branches throughout the city. MUSIC

Zivals Claiming to stock the widest selection of music in South America, Zivals (also an excellent bookshop) specialises in classical, jazz, folk, tango and hard-to-find independent local recordings. If you’re looking to broaden your musical horizons, ask the friendly staff for suggestions. Avenida Callao 395, y Avenida Corrientes (4371 6978/www.zivals. com). Subte B, Callao/bus 12, 24, 37, 60. Open 9.30am-9.30pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D4. SPORTS AND OUTDOOR GEAR

Wildlife Just steps from Avenida 9 de Julio, this shop sells brand new and second-hand equipment for campers, climbers, anglers, parachutists and more. The store’s expert staff is well equipped to guide you in all your purchases and on where to practise outdoor pursuits. Hipólito Yrigoyen 1133, entre Salta y Lima (4383 7013/www.wildlifesports. com.ar). Subte A, Lima/bus 29, 59, 86. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-1pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C4.

San Telmo

Known for its antiques shops and for its open-air Sunday feria on calle Defensa – a market that sprawls for several chaotic blocks – San Telmo is also home to a number of boutiques stocking clothing and accessories by up-and-coming local designers.

DESIGN AND HOME ACCESSORIES

!Autoría BsAs Autoría is an eclectic mix of thoroughly Argentinian art and design. The store has a bit of everything; an art gallery, maté gourds, calendars, notebooks, as well as fashion and accessories. Browse through carefully selected, high quality garments from fashion designers like Marcelo Senra, bags and accessories from the likes of Neumática and Perfectos Dragones, and jewellery from María Medici and Marina Massone. Suipacha 1025, entre Avenida Santa Fe y Marcelo T de Alvear (5252 2474/ www.autoriabsas.com.ar). Subte C, San Martín/bus 10, 111, 152. Open 9.30am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-2pm, 4.30-8pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5.

Autoría BsAs

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Shopping

Buenos Aires is no slouch when it comes to fashion – but despite demand for stylish clothing, being a fashion designer is no mean feat these days. With Argentina facing tough financial times, more and more designers are banding together to form showrooms and shops. Such collaborations lead to a creative mix of pieces and styles at stores like Tupã (see p107) and Reunión (see p108). Boutiques like Unión (see p112) and Panorama (see p106) meanwhile, are dedicated to spotlighting new, independent brands all under one roof. Summertime in Buenos Aires may be brutally hot, but that’s no excuse to skimp on style. Floaty dresses, platform sandals, stylish sunglasses and hats are all at your disposal to help you feel chic and comfortable when tempuratures are pushing 40oC (see p107 Five of the best). Throw on some jewellery from the latest designers and you’re ready to hit the town in style (see p112 New jewellery designers).

FASHION – MENSWEAR

La Martina This leather and casual clothes outfitter has one inspiration: polo. Pick up a long-sleeved shirt with a subtle logo or, for a more casual look, go for a short-sleeved version with print details. There’s womenswear with a preppy feel as well as large leather bags and, naturally, polo gear. If you can’t afford to splurge, get a piece of La Martina action with a leather wallet. Paraguay 661, entre Florida y Maipú (4576 7998/www.lamartina.com). Subte C, San Martín/bus 10, 17. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-2pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. Other locations Arribeños 2632, Belgrano (4576 0011); and branches throughout the city.

Shopping

Gil Antigüedades This store looks more like a costume museum than a shop at first glance. The exceptionally genial owners María Inés and Héctor Horacio have had fashion superstars like John Galliano and Carolina Herrera turn up on their doorstep to browse the collection of over 6,000 pieces including clothing, jewellery, footwear, fans, parasols, trunks and figurines. No one with even a passing interest in fashion should think of leaving San Telmo without stopping by. Humberto 1º 412, y Defensa (4361 5019/www.gilantiguedades.com.ar). Bus 10, 22, 29, 126. Open 11am-1pm, 3-7pm Tue-Sat; 11am-7pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. Other location Estados Unidos 361, San Telmo (4362 7922), by appt only. JEWELLERY

Juan Pérez (see p102)

ANTIQUES, ART AND COLLECTIBLES

Gabriel Del Campo Anticuario Well known for collectibles and furniture, this antiques shop facing Plaza Dorrego stocks unusual and eclectic pieces bound to bring character to even the dullest sitting room. Peruvian textiles sit side by side with oriental ebony and retro Louis Vuitton trunks. Take the time to browse through the store’s thrilling array of unorthodox objets. Bethlem 427, entre Defensa y Bolívar (4307 6589). Bus 24, 29, 126, 195. Open 10.30am-6.30pm daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. HB Antigüedades Stepping into this antiques emporium is like walking into a slightly over-furnished palace. It’s worth a look for the imposing centrepiece: a pink Italian chandelier that hangs regally from the lofty ceiling. Defensa 1016, entre Humberto 1º y Carlos Calvo (4361 3325/www. hbantiques.com). Bus 24, 29, 152. Open 10am-7pm Mon-Sat. No credit cards. Map B4. BOOKSHOPS

Fedro San Telmo This excellent shop stocks a good range of new English novels as well as art and assorted books and magazines. Nip through to the back for CDs, children’s books and more, and note that the Wi-Fi here is on the house, as is the interesting programme of regular talks and readings. Carlos Calvo 578, entre Bolívar y Perú (4300 7551/www.fedrosantelmo.com. ar). Bus 24, 29, 152, 195. Open noon-9pm Tue-Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. Walrus Books With over 5,000 titles in this shop’s eclectic range of used but good quality English books, you’re guaranteed to find something of interest, whether it’s

classic or modern literature or non-fiction. The atmospheric bookshop is a great place to wile away an hour. The owners also run a number of short literature courses in the shop and at the Walrus school in Palermo. Estados Unidos 617, entre Perú y Chacabuco (4300 7135/www.walrusbooks.com.ar). Subte C, Independencia/ bus 24, 29, 60, 64. Open noon-8pm Tue-Sun. Credit MC, V. Map B4. DESIGN AND HOME ACCESSORIES

Cualquier Verdura Like some fantastic white elephant stall, this shop unites the curious, the quirky and the kitsch. The capricious collection is arranged around the interior of a casa chorizo – a narrow house with an interior patio – and consists of many one-off, original pieces. One room is decked out like a kitchen, with the household decor items that are for sale completing the look, while other rooms feature retro record players and toys for nostalgia fans. The different coloured price tags are not randomly assigned, but indicate whether the product is new, locally made, or a vintage find. There’s even a category for pieces the owners are reluctant to see leave the store. Humberto 1º 517, entre Bolívar y Perú (4300 2474/www.cualquierverdura. com.ar). Bus 10, 22, 29, 195. Open noon-8pm Thu-Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. L’Ago L’Ago’s exquisite, witty window displays are enough to stop you in your tracks. Once inside, you can easily lose yourself in a world of eclectorama, from original vintage furniture and lighting fixtures to creative toys and art and design by the cream of Argentinian artists and product designers. Perfect for gift shopping: if you can’t find something in here then you’re simply not looking hard enough.

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Defensa 970, entre Estados Unidos y Carlos Calvo (4362 4702/www. lagosantelmo.com). Bus 24, 29, 74, 129, 130, 143, 152. Open 11am-8pm daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. FASHION – BOUTIQUES

Puntos en el Espacio Visit this ample, well-laid-out space for clothing for guys and girls, plus pretty underwear, bags, accessories and footwear from talented young designers. Time Out loves the colourful metallic jewellery by Paula Pizani, the psychedelic trainers by Puro and new kids’ clothing range Chango. This shop is always buzzing with hip young things examining the rails of comfy basics and imaginative, slickly designed clubwear. Carlos Calvo 450, entre Defensa y Bolívar (4307 7906/www. puntosenelespacio.com.ar). Bus 10, 22, 29, 126. Open 12.30-8pm Mon, Tue; 11am-8pm Wed-Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4.

Marcelo Toledo One of the most respected jewellers in BA, Toledo is one of the favourites of the former King of Spain and has also made pieces for Prince Charles and his mum. Toledo’s ‘Evita’ collection featured more than 120 items including earrings, brooches and necklaces in silver and gold with precious stones, many of them replicas of pieces found in Eva Perón’s wardrobe. Humberto 1º 462, entre Bolívar y Defensa (4362 0841/www. marcelotoledo.net). Subte C, San Juan/ bus 17, 64, 93, 126, 129, 130, 143. Open 10.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, Sun. Credit AmEx, V. Map B4.

Signos At this pint-sized shop-cumworkshop, just a hop, skip and a jump from Plaza Dorrego, jewellery designer Alberto Codiani busies himself making chunky silver pieces with precious and semi-precious stones, most originating from South America. Ranging from baroque to Indian in style, these beauties are perfect for women who dare to be different. It’s hard to choose just one piece, so ask Alberto’s partner Laura for a helping hand. There are also African decorative art and South American textiles for sale, but without a FASHION – VINTAGE doubt it’s Alberto’s Style maven El Buen Orden necklaces, rings and Book a customised tour earrings that steal the Strategically located a block from Plaza Dorrego, with Sophie Lloyd (www. show. Ask about shop-buenosaires.com) Alberto’s jewelleryEl Buen Orden is more to visit the latest and than your average making classes. greatest BA antiques shop. New Carlos Calvo 428, y shops. treasures appear daily as Defensa (mobile 15 5949 stock is constantly rotated. The 9193). Bus 10, 17, 24, 29. jam-packed store is home to Open 11am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-5pm everything from clothing and bags to Sat, Sun. No credit cards. Map B4. period-piece jewellery, hats and eyewear. Pick up an antique pill box for some old-school glamour; a pair of vintage cocktail-glass sunglasses, or browse the buttons, buckles and lace. Surprisingly accessible prices, too. Local 6, Carlos Calvo 431, entre From chain stores on Avenida Santa Fe Bolivar y Defensa (mobile 15 5936 to budget-busting designers on the chic 2820/www.elbuenorden.com.ar). Bus Avenida Alvear, Recoleta has plenty of 29, 93, 111, 143, 159, 195. Open clothing stores, the majority of which cater to a more mature and monied 2-6pm Tue-Sun. No credit cards. clientele. You’ll also find leather goods Map B4.

TOP TIP!

Recoleta and Barrio Norte

Shopping Time Out Insidersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15 99

and chic home accessories and the colourful weekend craft market on Plaza Francia where you can pick up traditional gifts like maté gourds and leather belts. SHOPPING CENTRES

Shopping

Galería Bond Street A favourite with wannabe rebels and emo kids, this grungy galería on Avenida Santa Fe is home to everything from hip trainers and urban wear to bondage gear. Lucky Seven and American Tattoo, a favourite of Maradona, are just two of the many body art and piercing parlours to visit. Avenida Santa Fe 1670, entre Montevideo y Rodríguez Peña (www. facebook.com/xbondstreet). Subte D, Callao/bus 10, 171. Open 11am-9pm Mon-Sat. Credit varies. Map E4.

DESIGN AND HOME ACCESSORIES

!Fueguia If you think Chanel No. 5’s top note is overly bergamot and best left for a cup of Earl Grey, step into Fueguia, a sexy fragrance- and candle-making laboratory, where you can create your own bouquet. The store offers 100-plus temptations all sourced from ecofriendly materials. Jorge Luis Borges, Argentina’s most prolific writer, has inspired two scents: cedar-hued Pulpería No. 73 (based on a conversation between Borges and his character Ireneo Funes), and wood-and-leather scented Biblioteca de Babel No. 40 (reminiscent of a comfortable old study). Avenida Alvear 1680, entre Montevideo y Rodríguez Peña (4311 5360/www.fueguia.com). Bus 17, 60, 92, 93, 124, 130. Open 11am-1.30pm, 2.30-8pm daily. Credit MC, V. Map E5. Wussmann This exclusive stationers stocks beautiful leather journals, notebooks, albums, writing implements and

Patio Bullrich This, the most luxurious of all BA’s shopping centres, was once the city’s meat auction house. Elegant and upmarket, it is home to many local and international high-end stores including Trosman and Carolina Herrera, as well as an excellent delicatessen, Valenti. Avenida del Libertador 750, entre Montevideo y Libertad (4814 7400/ www.shoppingbullrich.com.ar). Bus 17, 61, 130, 152. Open Shops 10am-9pm daily. Restaurants 10am-11pm Sun-Thu; 10am-1am Fri, Sat. Credit varies. Map E5. Recoleta Mall This new shopping centre opposite Recoleta Cemetery houses all the top brands under the one roof, plus a ten-screen cinema complex. Vicente López 2050, entre Uriburu y Junín (4808 0605/www.recoletamall. com.ar). Bus 10, 39, 93, 110, 118, 124, 130. Open Shops 10am-10pm daily. Restaurants 10am-midnight Sun-Thu; 10am-2am Fri, Sat. Credit varies. Map E5. BOOKSHOPS

Ateneo Grand Splendid Located in a lavish former theatre, El Ateneo is, without a doubt, the city’s most beautiful bookshop. Browse book after book in the unique surroundings, or have a drink in the on-stage café.

handcrafted paper featuring ancient prints. The store can also engrave new purchases with your own personal message or details. Rodríguez Peña 1399, y Juncal (4811 2444/www.wussmann.com/shop). Bus 10, 37, 101, 124. Open 10.30am-8pm, Mon-Fri; 11am-2pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5. FASHION – CHAINS

Chocolate This popular store offers stylish essentials like Peruvian pima cotton tops and pretty voile blouses in flattering colours, as well as options for special occasions and on-trend accessories. Founded over 25 years ago, Chocolate has a loyal following and is known for its great quality items. Avenida Santa Fe 1430, entre Uruguay y Paraná (4816 0153/www. chocolateargentina.com.ar). Bus 10, 29, 60, 152. Open 9.30am-8pm Mon-Fri; 9.30am-7pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. Other location Honduras 4928, Palermo (4833 3553). Desiderata Known for its quality women’s wardrobe staples, this store bridges the gap that usually exists between high street and the remote designer. Desiderata garments are comfortable, contemporary and on-trend, but always with a twist. Loose, lightweight knits EZEQUIEL POCCARD

Galería Patio del Liceo Behind a tall red door on frenetic Avenida Santa Fe lies the city’s most bohemian shopping precinct, with more than 30 art galleries and shops set around a leafy, oasis-like patio. Watering hole Baby Snakes is at the centre of the patio, delivering al fresco rehydration to thirsty hipsters. Among the gems in the galería are independent record store Mercurio; jewellery boutique Callis; comic book temple Moebius Liceo; art bookshop Purr Libros; whimsical womenswear label Greens, and vintage treasure trove Biorder. If this place isn’t already on your shopping radar, it should be. Avenida Santa Fe 2729, entre Laprida y Anchorena (www.galeriapatiodelliceo. com). Subte D, Agüero/bus 12, 29, 39, 41, 64, 68, 111, 152. Open 2-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit varies. Map E4.

Avenida Santa Fe 1860, entre Avenida Callao y Riobamba (4813 6052/www. tematika.com). Subte D, Callao/bus 10, 17, 39, 152. Open 9am-10pm Mon-Thu; 9am-midnight Fri, Sat; noon-10pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E4. Other location Florida 340, Microcentro (4325 6801).

DODDS

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are typical offerings, as are leather accessories, footwear and subtle prints. If you’re looking for a sleek blazer laced with elegant fabric, you will find it here. The focus is on good quality fabrics, with wool and silk mixes generally winning out over synthetics, and prices reflect this. Avenida Callao y Avenida Santa Fe (4816 5361/www.desiderata.com.ar). Subte D, Callao/bus 10, 124, 152. Open 9.30am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. Other locations Galerías Pacífico shopping centre, Microcentro (5555 5262); Alto Palermo shopping centre, Palermo (5777 8046). !Las Pepas An eclectic array of garments graces the rails at popular Las Pepas, though one mainstay of the brand’s collections is the range of leather outerwear and accessories. The large selection of leather jackets includes classic blousons and belted trenches, as well as pretty, feminine styles in sumptuously soft suede. Bags range from classic holdalls to dainty clutches, and footwear is also available. Avenida Santa Fe 1631, y Montevideo (4811 7887/www.laspepas.com.ar). Subte D, Callao/bus 10, 12, 29, 39, 60, 132. Open 10am-9pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. Other locations Alto Palermo shopping centre, Palermo (5777 8001); Alcorta Shopping, Palermo (5777 6553); Gurruchaga 1573, Palermo (4833 7789). FASHION – DESIGNER

DODDS Argentinian designer Sofía Dodds may have just opened her boutique in October of 2013, but her last name is already a fixture in the neighbourhood; her grandmother, Cristina Dodds, ran a boutique for years the same corner. Now Sofía has created a name for herself with her delicate and chic woven tops, dresses, skirts and jackets, which come in bold-coloured yet simple block prints. Many of the jackets and tops are finished with a material that Sofía calls engomado, roughly translated as ‘gummy’, which looks and feels like a lightweight alternative to leather. Perfect for a night out or a special event, the clothes are particularly remarkable because no two pieces are alike. Guido 1699, entre Montevideo y Quintana (4815 8695). Bus 10, 37, 60, 110. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-2pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5. Tramando Martín Churba, the innovative designer behind this label, whips up ingenious womenswear in a fusion of artistry and eccentricity. Wacky weaving, abstract prints and fabrics with rubbery finishes are among the brand’s hallmarks, as are modern fabrics featuring details and print effects reminiscent of traditional Argentinian woven textiles. Rodríguez Peña 1973, entre Posadas y Avenida Alvear (4811 0465/www. tramando.com). Bus 12, 17, 60. Open

Shopping

Sabater Hermanos (see p104)

10.30am-8.30pm Mon-Fri; 11am-7pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5. Other locations Alcorta Shopping, Palermo (4803 5434); Honduras 4881, Palermo (4833 5955). FASHION – BOUTIQUES

Cultivo Diseño Though housed in an old-fashioned building with a marble staircase and antique lift, Cultivo Diseño is all about what’s new. The boutique features independent Argentinian designers and is a snapshot of the latest in porteña street style. Playful graphic T-shirts, candy-coloured clutches, printed mini-dresses and platform shoes are displayed in various rooms, which are more reminiscent of a dressing-up box than a typical shop. Get your platform shoes, pile on a few necklaces and step onto Avenida Santa Fe looking like a bonafide local. Apartment 6, 2nd floor, Avenida Santa Fe 1731, y Rodríguez Peña (4812 0309/www.cultivodiseno.com. ar). Subte D, Callao/bus 39, 60, 75. Open noon-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D4. FASHION – CHILDREN’S AND MATERNITY

Venga Madre Mums-to-be can choose from casual daytime attire and elegant, streamlined evening wear at this store located just off busy Avenida Santa Fe. Opt for something slinky yet stretchy, or wrap up in the cosy cardigans that are just as fabulous post-pregnancy. In a city obsessed with the smaller frame, this place is a real find. Paraná 1052, entre Marcelo T de Alvear y Avenida Santa Fe (4813 0662/www.vengamadre.com.ar). Bus 10, 29, 111, 132, 152. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5.

Other locations La Pampa 2152, Belgrano (4784 8885); Viamonte 653, Microcentro (4394 0972). FASHION – VINTAGE AND USED

Galería 5ta Avenida It’s not all about vintage at Galería 5ta (pronounced ‘quinta’ – fifth) Avenida, but that’s definitely one of the things this grungy mini-mall does best. Here, persistence pays off: for those prepared to rummage about there are great pieces to be found, from tooled leather bags to vintage sportswear. For vintage eyewear visit Óptica Nahuel at store number 38 (4811 2837), and for rare vinyl, check out the fabulous record shop Abraxas (see p103). Avenida Santa Fe 1270, entre Libertad y Talcahuano (4816 0451). Bus 5, 10, 39, 60, 111, 129. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit varies. Map D5. Juan Pérez A used clothing megastore, Juan Pérez stocks a multitude of garments and accessories for women and men, from vintage Valentino to second-hand local labels like Kosiuko and María Cher. The shop has a particularly large selection of items from the 1970s to the 1990s, and prices range from pocket change to serious investment. Marcelo T de Alvear 1441, entre Paraná y Uruguay (4815 8442/www. vestitenjuanperez.blogspot.com). Bus 10, 17, 29, 39, 60, 124, 140, 152. Open 11am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. JEWELLERY

Oleana Designer Yanina Faour creates bold rings in a variety of styles ranging from cocktail-party bling and corporate-climber modernism, to resplendent art deco. The Mandala line,

102 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15

for instance, features stunning mosaicked pendants and earrings that resemble stained glass, while the playful Organic collection offers octopus rings and dragonfly necklaces. Yanina can also create custom designs, and has a men’s line too. Apartment 12A, Rodríguez Peña 2067, y Avenida del Libertador (mobile 15 3431 5213/www.oleana.com.ar). Bus 60, 67, 92, 93, 102, 110, 130, 152. Open 11am-7pm Mon-Fri. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5. LEATHER GOODS

Peter Kent Founded in 1972, Peter Kent is one of the city’s best luxury brands. Season after season its high-quality classic bags, both practical and stylish, have proven capable of accompanying any outfit. But even so, you won’t be able to resist splashing out on the new shades and styles also offered. If you’re looking for a smaller slice of designer luxury, snap up a purse, wallet, laptop bag or passport holder. Arenales 1210, y Libertad (4815 6581/ www.peterkent.com.ar). Bus 10, 17, 39. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-2pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. Other locations Avenida Alvear 1820, Recoleta (4804 7264); Alcorta Shopping, Palermo (4806 5442). Rossi & Caruso Make like the Spanish royal family and visit this store for classic handbags, briefcases and a host of other leather goods, from wallets and belts to saddles and riding crops. There are plenty of leather jacket styles including trenchcoats for men and traditional, quilted suede waistcoats for women. Lizard-skin shoes for women and classic Chelsea boots for men are just

some of the footwear options available, and the range of unique accessories includes crocodile-leather belts and fur-lined leather gloves. Posadas 1387 & 1379, entre Rodríguez Peña y Montevideo (4811 1965/www. rossicaruso.com). Bus 17, 60, 61, 67, 92, 93, 100, 102, 110, 130, 152. Open 9.30am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-7pm Sat; 11am-6pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5. Other locations Recoleta Mall, Recoleta (4806 1935); Galerías Pacífico shopping centre, Microcentro (4312 7749). Santesteban Beautifully crafted handbags and women’s footwear are offered at Verónica Santesteban’s store in the exclusive Galería Promenade shopping arcade. The impressive, wide range of exotic materials includes stingray and crocodile skin, supple leather and the softest of furs, and horn and precious stones are used in the detailing. As you’d expect with this quality of product, every piece is handmade by skilled artisans. Local 40, Galería Promenade, Avenida Alvear 1883, entre Avenida Callao y Ayacucho (4800 1174/www. santesteban.net). Bus 17, 67, 92, 93, 110, 124. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-6pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5. SHOES – WOMEN’S

Comme Il Faut Hidden away in a peaceful lane, famous Comme Il Faut offers beautifully made tango shoes. The technical part of the design makes the footwear ideal for even the most demanding dancer, and the aesthetic element ensures that these stunning shoes are coveted by both

tangueras and tourists. The stylish boutique is an experience in itself, as there are very few shoes on display to browse; instead customers describe the style and colour they prefer and wait on plush sofas as box after box of delicate heels are brought out to try on. Apartment M, Rue des Artisans, Arenales 1239, entre Libertad y Talcahuano (4815 5690/www. commeilfaut.com.ar). Bus 39, 70, 108, 152. Open 11am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-3pm Sat. Credit MC, V. Map D5. MUSIC

There are also a few makeup counters on the ground floor, and those prone to claustrophobia can escape the crowds of consumers in the cafés upstairs. Avenida Santa Fe 3253, entre Coronel Díaz y Bulnes (5777 8000/www. altopalermo.com.ar). Subte D, Bulnes/ bus 15, 39, 64, 152. Open 10am-10pm daily. Credit varies. Map F4. Alcorta Shopping The upmarket Alcorta Shopping is often considered BA’s most pleasant mall. It contains a gigantic Carrefour hypermarket as well as quality clothing shops including Penguin, local menswear brand Bensimon and a branch of Argentinian designer Martín Churba’s Tramando (see p100). Salguero 3172, y Avenida Figueroa Alcorta (5777 6500/www. alcortashopping.com.ar). Bus 37, 67, 102, 130. Open Shops 10am-9pm daily. Restaurants 10am-10pm Sun-Thu; 10am-11pm Fri, Sat. Credit varies. Map G5.

Shopping

Abraxas This miniscule music store is legendary. For over three decades, owner Fernando Pau has been helping rock ’n’ roll fans get their jam on with a carefully curated selection of CDs and LPs that includes both output from relatively unknown groups and coveted collectors’ items. Alongside the music, you can also find a selection of books, DVDs and musical memorabilia. Local 74-76, Galería 5ta Avenida, BOOKSHOPS Avenida Santa Fe 1270 Alamut Libros (4815 7160/www. This shop brings to abraxasdiscos.com.ar). BA just what every Bus 10, 29, 39, 60. Literatura inglesa city needs: a bookshop Open 11am-8.30pm Lots of bookshops in Buenos combined with a wine Mon-Fri; noon-8.30pm Aires stock English-language store. Books share a Sat. No credit cards. books, and also often have space with wine Map D5. knowledgeable salespeople boutique Autre Monde to help you pick your next (www.autremonde. TRADITIONAL CRAFTS read. com.ar), where the expert Arandú owner hand selects every You’ll find everything you need bottle. Alamut’s libros are chosen here to kit yourself out as a with equal care, and owners Daniela hard-bitten gaucho: the saddle, the and Luciano take pride in offering titles riding boots, the hats and the maté beyond just what’s on the best-seller gourd. In terms of souvenir hunting, list. For a night of wine and culture, this is decidedly upmarket reserve a spot at one of Alamut’s film merchandise – it’s spot-on for special screenings, the price of which includes gifts for your loved ones – with two glasses of quality wine. excellent quality leather goods and Jorge Luis Borges 1985, y Soler (4833 engraved steak knives. 9184). Bus 39, 55, 57, 110, 111. Ayacucho 1924, entre Avenida Alvear Open 3-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, y Quintana (4800 1575/www.arandu. MC, V. Map G3. com.ar). Bus 10, 17, 59, 110, 124. Open 9am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; Dain Usina Cultural 10am-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. An identity crisis (is it a bookshop? A Map E5. café? A live music venue? A bar?) Other locations Talcahuano 949, doesn’t detract from the fact that this Tribunales (4816 1281); Paraguay 1259, corner locale is one of Palermo’s most Tribunales (4816 3689). inviting spaces. It specialises in hardback design and travel tomes, with a small selection of Englishlanguage titles, and its book launches and free live music events draw in a Trendy Palermo is one of the city’s sedate crowd most evenings. When creative hubs. A hotbed for artists and you’ve had your fill of browsing, designers of all disciplines, it has retreat to the roof terrace to sip plenty of hip clothing and design refreshing mojitos. stores dotted around its attractive Nicaragua 4899, y Thames (4778 streets, mainly on Honduras and 3554/www.dainusinacultural.com). Gurruchaga near Plaza Serrano. The Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 34, 55. Open area is ideal for shopping, strolling and noon-9pm daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. soaking up the atmosphere. There are Map G3. also weekend markets on both Plaza Serrano and Plaza Armenia selling Libros del Pasaje jewellery, paintings, sunglasses and The walls of this shop are crammed cheaper clothes. with books on subjects ranging from English literature to Argentinian art SHOPPING CENTRES and design. The fabulous coffee-table books and quirky little souvenir Alto Palermo editions make great gifts, and there’s a The ever-popular Alto Palermo very pleasant café at the back of the contains many of Argentina’s top store for a pick-me-up cortado. chains like Complot and Bensimon.

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Gurruchaga 1821, entre Costa Rica y Nicaragua (4833 3004/www.shnos.com. ar). Bus 15, 34, 36, 160. Open 1-7pm daily. No credit cards. Map G3.

Shopping

NEW Salmón Tienda Salmón is like a Pinterest lover’s dream come true. The owners take care in curating their shop, filling it with objects and products from Argentinian artisans. This eclectic store has everything from canvas bags to organise your kitchen to teeny-tiny cactus plants, and you may find yourself convinced that your home badly needs every one of the items on display. If you’re on the hunt for a one-of-a-kind piece to decorate your home, you’ve come to the right spot – just don’t blame Time Out if you leave with a few more items than anticipated. Cabello 3629, y Scalabrini Ortiz (4809 3344/www.salmontienda.com). Bus 57, 59, 60, 67, 93, 95, 102, 108, 110, 118, 130. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Fri; 11am-7pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G4. FASHION – CHAINS

Recommended JT

Hidden among mechanical workshops in Villa Crespo, clothing designer Jessica Trosman’s shop-cum-factory is a triumph of urban design. The unique, high-end garments contrast beautifully with the plain cement floor and corrugated metal ceiling and are illuminated by an abundance of natural light. The brand’s motto ‘Not to be understood’ is reflected in the unconventional cuts, light, luxurious fabrics and interesting textures of investment pieces designed for the seriously stylish. Weary shoppers can step through the sliding door to the equally glorious café Yeite (see p26), or gaze in awe at the factory where Trosman began her career 20 years ago. Humboldt 291, y Murillo (4857 6009/www.jtbyjt.com). Subte B, Dorrego/bus 19, 45, 93, 111, 127. Open 11am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H1.

Thames 1762, y Pasaje Russel (4833 6637/www.librosdelpasaje.com.ar). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 34, 39, 55. Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; 3-10pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. DESIGN AND HOME ACCESSORIES

Papelera Palermo With pretty handmade paper, cards and envelopes in all shapes, sizes and textures, this super stationer’s is an absolute joy to behold. An impressive array of design and art books is further inspiration to take up a craft, and if you decide to, Papelera Palermo offers workshops including bookbinding, printing, origami, calligraphy, paper making, marbling, drawing and painting, all at very reasonable prices. Cabrera 5227, entre Uriarte y Godoy Cruz (4833 3081/www.papelera palermo.com.ar). Bus 39, 55, 168. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Fri; 11am-8pm Sat. No credit cards. Map G2. Paul A visit to this lovely shop is bound to inspire a spot of interior decorating in even the most undomesticated of folk.

Walk down the passageway filled with sweet-smelling plants to the shop at the end, where you’ll find tasteful homeware items to ‘ooh’ and ‘ahh’ over; from Union Jack cushions and pretty bedspreads to bathroom goodies and a host of glassware and kitchen utensils. Larger pieces like wardrobes are also in stock, and to decorate gardens or balconies there are dinky watering cans, plant pots and birdhouses that are just the right side of twee. Small café Decata is a good spot for coffee and cake and an adjoining store sells Inés Berton’s Tealosophy teas. Gorriti 4865, entre Armenia y Gurruchaga (4833 2209/www.pauldeco. com). Bus 15, 55, 140. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. Pehache Set in a renovated antique house in the heart of Palermo, Pehache (as in PH, which stands for propiedad horizontal) is one of those concept stores that even shopping phobes could spend hours in. Not only are you tempted to buy every item (though the price tags do require self-control), but it’s all so prettily laid out

104 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15

that you’re almost afraid to pick things up. Almost. Items like hand-painted penguin-shaped jugs and stand-alone baths are all by local designers and hand-picked by the two sisters who own the shop. Everything is for sale, including the chairs in the changing room and the paintings on the walls. The patio doubles as a café selling fruit juices, sandwiches and salads. Gurruchaga 1418, entre Cabrera y Gorriti (4832 4022/www.pehache.com). Bus 39, 55, 151. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. Sabater Hermanos Run by the third generation of Sabater family soap makers, this funky shop and workshop is a soap version of a pick ’n’ mix counter. With coloured soap flakes, cookie-cutter shapes, golf balls and ‘hundreds and thousands’ of scented soaps behind the garden variety bar, there are plenty of choices. Rebels may gravitate to the Black Sabbath or marijuana leaf squares, while those who get their kicks in less gritty ways may chuckle at the soapcakes bearing Spanish phrases like ‘Doesn’t wash your conscience’.

De la Ostia For the clubber by night, flower child by day, De la Ostia is the attire of choice for the experimental twentysomething. Glam jackets and sequinned miniskirts are made for getting elegantly wasted in, while lacy, draped tops and T-shirts with beaded detailing give a ’70s flashback to a stroll in the park. Argentinian designer Lola Canavosio likes her tones monochrome or muted and she also does a range of jeans and footwear to complete the look. El Salvador 4627, entre Armenia y Malabia (4833 3468/www.delaostia. net). Bus 15, 39, 110, 140, 151, 160. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. Other locations Alcorta Shopping (5777 6562), Palermo (4833 3468); Maure 1538, Belgrano (4777 8906). María Cher Argentinian María Cherñajovsky’s collections combine feminine pieces like silk-mix tunics and modern minidresses with trousers and jackets clearly influenced by menswear. Her bold, oversized designs are heavily influenced by blacks and whites that are staples of all the ranges, though striking colours and bright and wild prints are introduced each season. El Salvador 4724, entre Armenia y Gurruchaga (4833 4736/ www.maria-cher.com.ar). Bus 34, 55, 57, 106, 151, 160, 168. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Sat; noon-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. Other location Alcorta Shopping, Palermo (5777 6541). Paula Cahen D’Anvers An unstructured look and a potpourri of pretty, comfortable separates are the secret to this brand’s success. Think flirty model type raiding her boyfriend’s wardrobe for an oversized white shirt to team with her lacetrimmed cotton camisole and culottes, to get an idea of the brand’s aesthetic.

There are preppy items with a touch of masculine tailoring but the collections are always decidedly feminine, with floral motifs and broderie anglaise frequently recurring. These are garments that will slot into most wardrobes, though prices may make you pause before purchasing. Alto Palermo shopping centre, Avenida Santa Fe 3253, y Coronel Díaz (5777 8227/www.paulacahendanvers.com.ar). Subte D, Bulnes/bus 12, 39, 152. Open 10am-10pm daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map F4. Other locations Honduras 4888, Palermo (4833 6655); and branches throughout the city.

!Blackmamba Perhaps you already knew Argentina is the place to buy leather goods, but you probably didn’t count on anything quite as cool as this. Designer Bianca Siconolfi manages the rare feat of turning goth style into high fashion with quality pieces like leather jackets, studded handbags and bold shoes as well as T-shirts and chunky knits. Daring detailing like a ribcage stitched onto the back of a leather jacket comes off as cheeky rather than creepy, while a tarnished-silver tarantula necklace is the edgy piece you didn’t know your wardrobe needed. With both menswear and womenswear, this shop is a must for the cutting-edge fashionista. Soler 4502, y Malabia (4832 5083/ www.beblackmamba.com). Bus 15, 39, 141, 160. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Shopping

Rapsodia This popular local brand takes international trends and gives them a bohemian twist, mixing shabby chic with sophisticated hippy. Sumptuous velvets, delicate gauzy material and the softest pima cotton are some of the fabrics used. In keeping with the brand’s aesthetic, there are plenty of clashing, bright patterns as well as an overdose of embellishments from lace trims to embroidery and sequins. There’s also an abundance of fringed scarves and ethnic-inspired accessories. Honduras 4872, entre Gurruchaga y Armenia (4831 6333/www.rapsodia. com.ar). Bus 15, 39, 55, 57. Open 10am-9pm daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. Other locations Andrés Arguibel 2899, Las Cañitas (4772 2716); and branches throughout the city.

Thames 1733, entre El Salvador y Pasaje Russel (4833 9357/www. agostinabianchi.com.ar). Bus 34, 39, 55, 140. Open noon-8.30pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Cecilia Gadea Cecilia Gadea’s pieces are consistently whimsical and feminine, without ever crossing the line into juvenile or frilly. Gadea’s background in both graphic design and fashion translates into laser-cut lace and custom textiles that turn her wardrobe essentials into anything but basic. Wearable dresses come with dreamy flounced layers, and delicate lacy collars help old shirts look like new. Located just Vitamina steps from Plaza Silk tops, buttery Serrano, this is a smooth leather jackets fashion retreat from Late night shopping and draped T-shirts in Most shops are open until at the bustle of the softest of yarns: least 8pm, so you can shop beer-stained bars. Vitamina’s clothes are till you drop, and then toast Serrano 1536, y luxuriously touchyyour new purchases with a Honduras (4831 feely. Designer Silvia 5930/www.cecilia drink. See page 72 for Ortiz has cornered the gadea.com). Bus 15, bar listings. market for the 39, 55, 93, 141. Open sophisticated girly girl, and 2-7.30pm Tue-Fri; 2-6pm Sat. her elegant-yet-relaxed pieces are Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. dreamy enough to float away in. El Salvador 4757, entre Gurruchaga y Cora Groppo Armenia (4897 2180/www.vitamina. Cora Groppo is known for her flowing com.ar). Bus 15, 39, 55, 93, 141, 168. forms and love of layering, and the use Open 10am-8pm daily. Credit AmEx, of textural details such as ruching and MC, V. Map G2. piping in her garments. Unlike some of Other locations Alto Palermo the more eye-searing colours found in shopping centre, Palermo (4508 2211); BA boutiques, here the palate is made Galerías Pacífico shopping centre, up of muted, chic neutrals. There’s Microcentro (5555 5245). plenty of visual interest to be found in Groppo’s use of leather, plastic chains FASHION – DESIGNER and other textural details, giving Agostina Bianchi structure to her soft, unusual shapes. Following the triumph of her luxury Fine knits are a key element of the knitwear abroad – the designer was collections and make excellent invited by Harrods in London to wardrobe basics. showcase her chic creations in the store – Agostina Bianchi decided to set El Salvador 4657, y Armenia (4833 7474/www.coragroppo.com). Bus 15, up shop at home in Buenos Aires. 39, 55, 110, 140, 141, 151, 168. Displayed in her elegant boutique is a Open 10.30am-8pm Mon-Sat; 2-7pm range of flattering, feminine Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. confections for the mature woman, Other location Uruguay 1296, made with sumptuously soft yarns including merino wool and mohair, and Recoleta (4815 8516). featuring interesting touches such as Cubreme metallic-coloured threads. Every item Fashion designer Alejandra Gottelli in Bianchi’s collections is handmade and available only in limited numbers. does her bit for the planet – and the

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Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15 105

Shopping

local economy – by supporting Argentinian farmers, sourcing organic wool from Patagonian sheep and llamas from San Luis, as well as chemical-free cotton from Chaco. The yarns are woven into the softest of fabrics and hand-tailored into classic yet contemporary cardigans, silk-blend scarves and slip dresses in earthy, neutral tones. The boutique also carries an adorable line of cotton baby clothes by Chunchino and a homeware line. Godoy Cruz 1720, entre Honduras y Gorriti (4832 5176/www.cubreme.com). Bus 34, 39, 140, 168. Open 12.307.30pm Tue-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. Dubié This is one independent fashion house you should definitely not be dubious of. The discrete storefront does not scream out for attention on passing, but stop once and you’ll visit time and time again. The collection has a select range of heels, boots and women’s clothing, all handmade from luxurious materials like white leather and pony hair, a testament to the craftsmanship at Dubié. The label’s chic versatility means you’ll be able to wear the pieces on just about any occasion. Think blacks, whites, navy blues and neutrals made with gorgeous linens and raw textures. The pointed backless heels are selling like hot cakes here in BA. República de la India 3139, y Seguí (4807 3890/www.dubie.com). Bus 37, 57, 128. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Fri; 11am-8pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. Garza Lobos Garza Lobos has been causing quite a stir on the city’s fashion circuit since its womenswear collection debuted at 2011’s spring/summer Buenos Aires Fashion Week. The label’s ultrafeminine clothes and signature marbled print have struck a chord with a fashion-forward crowd, as has its experimental use of exotic animal fibres including llama, chinchilla and guanaco. The spacious boutique, in a converted old Palermo house, pairs a minimalist aesthetic with the building’s original charm. El Salvador 4734, entre Gurruchaga y Armenia (4833 5280/www.garzalobos. com). Bus 39, 160. Open 1-8pm Mon-Sat; 1-7pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. Juana de Arco Mariana Cortés, the designer behind the Juana de Arco label, began creating her highly original colourful designs from scraps of fabric. Through experimentation and incorporating traditional South American textile arts like Ñandutí, a Paraguayan lacemaking technique, into her work, Cortés developed the multicoloured patchwork confections that are her signature pieces today. Underwear is a speciality: treat yourself to the multicoloured bras, camisoles and organic cotton knickers. Downstairs in the brightly decorated store you can also find the Juana Casa line with

patchwork pillows in all shapes and sizes, laptop cases and rugs. El Salvador 4762, y Gurruchaga (4833 1621/www.juanadearco.net). Bus 15, 34, 39, 55, 110. Open 10.30am-8pm daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. Other locations Recoleta Mall, Recoleta (4805 1208); Alcorta Shopping, Palermo (5777 6704).

affordable when compared to many neighbouring shops, with its end-of-season sales particularly good for bargains. Malabia 1924, y Nicaragua (3535 0346/somosthem.com). Bus 15, 39, 57, 110. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Vestite y Andate Mariana Dappiano Luxury fabrics and graphic prints are Rather than trying to chase current the hallmarks of the chic statement trends, designer Mariana Dappiano pieces dreamed up by Agustina remains faithful to her own classic Bengolea and Clara Campagnola. aesthetic, producing clothing for These two designers understand mature women with a strong what it means to play with sense of personal style fabrics; frocks made and an appreciation for from shimmery velvet quality and originality. and the softest of Sartorial streets Unstructured, organic See what the most stylish suede, silk tops that forms dominate locals are wearing at street drape just so and Dappiano’s collections colourful woollen vests style blog On The Corner with details such as that flatter the female (onthecornerstreetstyle. draped necklines and form are embellished blogspot.com.ar). asymmetrical sleeves. with pops of chiffon, She plays with the mesh and lurex. juxtaposition of striking colours Nicaragua 4604, entre and unique textiles to create truly Gurruchaga y Armenia (3532 2495/ authentic garments. www.vestiteyandate.net). Bus 15, 39, Gurruchaga 1755, entre Costa Rica y 55, 110, 141, 160. Open noon-6pm El Salvador (4833 4731/www. Mon-Fri; noon-8pm Sat; 2-7.30pm Sun. dappianostore.com.ar). Bus 15, 34, 39, Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. 55, 57. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat. Vevû Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. Vevû’s Palermo boutique houses an Them ultra-feminine collection, ranging from Tucked away on a quiet corner of demure pastel blouses and 1950s-style Palermo Soho, this quirky designer strapless dresses to classic black and brand mixes porteñas’ love for white numbers. Designer Sandra bum-skimming hemlines and Delelis’s tactic is to take high fashion skin-baring cut-outs with just enough trends and rework them into wearable chic to make the clothes more than pieces designed to flatter all shapes clubwear. Plenty of crisp black and and sizes. Jumpsuits, flapper-style white dresses, loud prints and dresses and vintage-inspired pendants eye-catching shoes like neon lace-ups are all must-have items. and pointy white dorsay flats, mean El Salvador 4663, entre Armenia y the little store packs a huge punch. Malabia (4833 3360/www.vevu.com). Even better, the quality label is Bus 15, 36, 39, 141, 151, 160, 168.

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Queenies (see p113)

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Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. Other location Avenida Las Heras 3896, Recoleta (4807 8094). FASHION – BOUTIQUES

Amores Trash Couture Fans of 1980s fashion should make sure to stop by this space for party dresses and sexy separates, particularly influenced by BA’s 1980s trash fashion moment. Lace, leopard, and metallics are plentiful but modified to fit modern trends. That doesn’t mean they’ve lost their flashy, attention-grabbing edge though; mixing these pieces into your wardrobe will help you turn heads on the street or on the dancefloor. Head upstairs to check out the selection of vintage clothing and accessories, which isn’t all exclusively 1980s-centric. Ángel Carranza 1979, entre Costa Rica y Nicaragua (4775 3601/www. amorestrashcouture.com.ar). Bus 39, 57. Open 11am-7pm Mon-Fri; 1-7pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. Other location Pasaje Santa Rosa 4909, Palermo (5294 7043). Lupe Fans of French brand Comptoir des Cotonniers should visit this Palermo store for a local take on understated femininity with a touch of rock chic. The bright, spacious outlet is the perfect place to pick up pretty daywear in fabrics like washed silk and pure wool, and knowledgeable staff can help you select an original piece for a more formal occasion. El Salvador 4666, y Armenia (4832 6743/www.lupeba.com.ar). Bus 15, 39. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat; 2.30-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. Panorama In BA’s thriving fashion industry, designers like Vanesa Krongold and Julia Schang-Vitón form part of a vibrant community of recent graduates who didn’t waste a second launching their own lines straight out of university, and they don’t disappoint. This small but well-stocked boutique is dedicated to promoting those up-and-coming designers, as well as other favourite labels like Blackmamba (see p105) and Them (see left). With all of that under one roof, Panorama is the perfect place to add some Argentinian spirit to your wardrobe. República de la India 2905, y Cabello (mobile 15 5005 0785/www.pnrm.com. ar). Bus 60, 67, 93, 95, 108, 110. Open 11am-9pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx,MC, V. Map G4. Seco Seco’s fun reversible rain macs are designed to reflect your mood, even if it’s prone to swing unexpectedly. Colourful floral prints on one side are bound to perk you up, while the plain reverse is a little more low-key. There is also a small range of T-shirts and dresses with cute motifs for those who want to enjoy Seco’s aesthetic on dry days. Wellington boots, trainers, bikinis, hats and, of course, umbrellas are also stocked.

Five of the best Summer accessories

Caro Cuore Locations throughout the city (www.carocuore.net) These playful bikinis come in a range of styles, but be prepared to bare some bottom.

Palo Santo Bonpland 2215 (4778 9509) Stay as cool as a cucumber behind Palo Santo's chic and eco-friendly range of shades.

3 4

Mishka El Salvador 4673 (4833 6566/ www.mishkashoes.com.ar) Keep your toes happy with these shiny and comfortable platforms and sandals.

Compañia de Sombreros 1st floor, Jorge Luis Borges 2089 (4831 4886/www. companiasombreros.com.ar) Whether you’re after a Panama hat or a baseball cap, this hat-lovers paradise is bound to have the sombrero of your dreams.

Armenia 1646, entre El Salvador y Honduras (4833 1166/www. secorainwear.com). Bus 15, 34, 39, 110, 140. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. !Tupã At the end of a grassy path leading to a classic Palermo propiedad horizontal, you’ll find Tupã, home to the unique work of up-and-coming designers Julia Schang-Vitón, Agustín Yarde Buller and Martín Boerr. The homey yet modern setting perfectly matches their sleek and contemporary designs, all of which are arranged thoughtfully in various rooms. Chat with the friendly designers who often man the store themselves, and evidently take great delight in telling customers the story behind every piece. Lafinur 3132, entre Cabello y Cerviño (2077 8563/www.tupatupa.com.ar). Bus 60, 67, 93, 118, 128, 130, 160. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G4. FASHION – MENSWEAR

Bensimon Bensimon’s sophisticated take on casual cool is perfect for metrosexual types looking for toned down but trendy gear. Slim-fitting trousers and T-shirts, lightweight knits and skimpy leather jackets are ideal for lean-bodied twentysomethings keen to attain an unfussy, informal look. Honduras 4876, entre Armenia y Gurruchaga (4833 6857/www. bensimon.com.ar). Bus 15, 39, 55, 57.

!Bolivia If you’re the type to carry a manbag and you don’t mind having your sexuality speculated upon, have a gander at the garments at Bolivia. Floral print shirts and shockingly bright knitwear are a far cry from macho menswear; and don’t be fooled by the dark pinstripe suits – though they may appear relatively tame on the outside, the leopard print linings are anything but subtle. If you find that your outfit still requires that extra je ne sais quoi, accessorise with a printed scarf or a brightly coloured tote. The brand offers equally bold womenswear and childrenswear lines as well. Gurruchaga 1581, entre Gorriti y Honduras (4832 6284/www. boliviaonline.com.ar). Bus 15, 34, 39, 55, 57, 106, 140, 151, 168. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat; 3-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. Other location Thames y Nicaragua, Palermo (4832 6409); Costa Rica 4672, Palermo (4831 0478).

Shopping

Pesqueira Gurruchaga 1750 (4833 7218/ www.pesqueiratm.com) With animal prints, marine-inspired stripes and flattering cuts, Pesqueria’s dresses are perfect for swishing in the summer sun.

Open 11am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; 2-8.30pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. Other locations Quintana 492, Recoleta (4807 5218); Alto Palermo shopping centre, Palermo (5777 8011); and branches throughout the city.

Bowen Boys who are into the retro-chic look will love London-inspired Bowen. The look is both soft and hard, with biker jackets, leather boots, cotton hoodies and T-shirts among the mix. It’s a top spot to pick up urban casual wear, with a rock ’n’ roll edge sure to boost your sex appeal. Gurruchaga 1548, y Pasaje Soria (4831 1710/www.bowenlondon.com.ar). Bus 15, 34, 39, 55, 110, 151, 168. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat; 2-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. Other locations Abasto shopping centre, Abasto (4959 3629); Alto Palermo shopping centre, Palermo (5777 8254); Alcorta Shopping, Palermo (5777 6880); Galerías Pacífico shopping centre, Microcentro (4313 6482).

NEW Cuggini With its bold patterned shirts and funky shorts and trousers in all the colours of the rainbow, this Palermo store is for men who want to look smart while making a statement. Friendly staff will help you decide whether to invest in a flowery pink or checked yellow and orange shirt, or brighten your standard white button-up with a cheerful tie, bow tie or braces. A larger store in Almagro has more stock and frequent sales. Honduras 4815, y Armenia (4833 3146/www.cuggini.com.ar). Bus 15, 34, 39, 55, 57, 106, 110, 140, 141, 151. Open 10.30am-8.30pm Tue-Sat; noon-8.30pm Sun-Mon. Credit MC, V. Map G3. Other location Avenida Boedo 502, Almagro (3530 9863). Etiqueta Negra From the impressive window displays to the vintage motorbike inside the Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15 107

Shopping

Palermo Hollywood one of the coolest shops in the city, while the functional, modern menswear is making waves worldwide. Hidden pockets and adjustable cuffs are just some of the clothes’ features, and the range of accessories is full of equally clever elements: there are reversible belts and and cotton underwear with just one seam (one of the house specialities). Go for casual cool with multi-purpose trousers and leather jackets. El Salvador 5960, entre Ravignani y Arévalo (4772 2145/www. hermanosestebecorena.com). Bus 39, 55. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2.

Manu Lizarralde Right in the heart of Palermo Soho, Manu Lizarralde’s showroom positively glows with an array of precious stones, from purple amethysts, green emeralds and champagne coloured topaz to golden rutile and quartz crystal. Each stone is handcrafted from scratch, so if you are looking for a glamorous gift from the rose quartz heart of the world, this is a dazzling hit. Gorriti 5078, entre Thames y Serrano (4832 6252/www.manulizarralde.com). Bus 34, 39. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. Other location San Martín 1107, Retiro (4314 4379).

Key Biscayne Key Biscayne’s distinctive crab logo can be spotted on billboards and advertisements around town, but after a stop in the Palermo Soho store, it’s clear this Argentinian menswear chain is aimed squarely at the anti-corporate metrosexual. Comfy hooded cardigans, denim chambray shirts, colourful shorts and T-shirts in bright, beach-ready colours are in stock all year round, even if the weather doesn’t call for it. Armenia 1735, entre Costa Rica y El Salvador (4833 2104/www.keybiscayne. com.ar). Bus 15, 34, 39, 55, 110, 141. Open 11am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; 1-8.30pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. Other locations Alcorta Shopping, Palermo (4807 5282); Alto Palermo shopping centre, Palermo (5777 8007).

Patrón This delightful jewellery and accessories store stocks statement pieces by both established and up-and-coming Argentinian designers. Artistic displays ensure the presentation is just as lovely as the merchandise itself. In addition to an exceptional range of must-have jewellery there are limited edition pieces like leather jackets and colourful silk scarves. A newly-expanded collection of home decor that includes stunning porcelain vases and intricately hand-painted ceramic bowls proves hard to resist. The owner, jewellery designer Laura Patrón Costas, also curates a small art gallery in the shop’s basement that is well worth checking out. Malabia 1644, entre Honduras y El Salvador (4831 0351/www.patronba. com). Bus 15, 36, 39, 55, 57, 106, 110, 140, 151, 160, 168. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

FASHION – VINTAGE AND USED

New in town Reunión

Reunión is more than just a shop, it’s a collective of designers dedicated to sharing ideas and creativity. That’s not to say that the wares it sells aren’t worth mentioning, quite the opposite; the small space stocks a range of products, with clothes, jewellery and bags from local brands like Bastardo BA, Floresta and Emedemarta. If clothes and accessories don’t tickle your fancy, there’s even stationary, books, small plants and a small selection of wines and jams available to purchase. Reunión isn’t just limited to selling the arts, though, it also fosters the arts, having hosted workshops on illustrating, writing and sewing in the past. Conde 2127, y Juramento (4542 7449/www.enreunion.com.ar). Bus 19, 67, 76, 151. Open 2-7pm Wed, Thu; 3.30-8.30pm Fri, Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V.

store, Etiqueta Negra oozes elegance. Cultivate effortless chic with slick suits and Italian cotton shirts – ideal for aspiring Clooney types – or buy yourself a bit of old-school cool, Steve McQueen style subtly worn-in jeans, timeless T-shirts, cashmere-mix knitwear and silky soft leather jackets. All perfect for the refined rebel with a healthy bank balance. There’s also a small smart-casual range for women. Honduras 4850, entre Gurruchaga y Armenia (4833 2474/www. etiquetanegra.us). Bus 15, 34, 39, 151. Open 10am-8.30pm Mon-Fri; 10am-9pm Sat; 1-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. Other locations Patio Bullrich shopping centre, Recoleta (4814 7430); Arguibel 2835, Las Cañitas (4776 9818).

brand’s neat street style. Founded by Martín Egozcue, the label has drawn comparisons to English designer Paul Smith and has established a following among hip types happy to spend time and cash cultivating an image of effortless cool. If you’ve dreamed of being snapped by a street-style spotter, hotfoot it down to this store, then work on the art of loitering decoratively. The factory outlet also stocks togs for trendy sprogs. Honduras 4916, y Gurruchaga (4832 2164/www.felixba.com.ar). Bus 15, 39, 110, 160. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Fri; 11am-9pm Sat; 2.30-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. Other locations Factory outlet, Godoy Cruz 1645, Palermo (4833 1444); Alcorta Shopping, Palermo (5777 6593).

Félix Félix’s minimalistic new store on calle Honduras perfectly complements the

Hermanos Estebecorena Display units from the 1950s and retro letter boards make HE’s flagship in

108 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15

Bimba Vintage Helmed by porteña actress Jazmín Rodríguez, this Palermo showroom is a sanctuary for vintage-lovers. Anyone who knows the work involved in hunting down a quality second-hand garment will appreciate the care Rodríguez has put into to curating her store, which is stocked with mintcondition items. Printed blouses, fringed dresses, snakeskin clutches and an assortment of fabulous costume jewellery are just a few of the finds you can stumble upon here, along with a few designer names on the racks for the label hounds. Address provided at time of booking (mobile 15 5473 5419/bimbavintage. wix.com). Bus 39, 110, 140. Open By appt only. No credit cards. Map F3. JEWELLERY

925nueveveinticinco Designer Mario Paluch works with silver, gold, wood and semi-precious stones like malachite, amber and rhodochrosite to create unique, eye-catching designs. Get a piece custom-made, or choose from huge, chunky rings combining silver and ebony from the Madera line or from colourful, mosaic-like examples in the Gaudí range. Other options include a striking silver ring composed of numerous coils, as well as woven silver cuffs from guest designer Lilia Breyter. Honduras 4808, y Armenia (4833 5343/www.nueveveinticinco.com.ar). Bus 15, 39, 55, 140. Open 11am-8pm daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

LEATHER GOODS

Blit Bags Designer George Visir’s showroom is the secret to getting the most luxurious leather bag, but at wholesale prices. Book an appointment with the gregarious designer and you’ll join the ranks of Visir’s VIP clientele, including supermodel Christy Turlington. The colourful satchels, backpacks and clutches that line the eclectic space will fulfill every aesthetic from boho-chic to lady-who-lunches; details like silk-satin patterned interiors and convertible straps are hallmarks of the quality of every piece rather than gimmicks. And should your shopping companion be bored as you decide just how many bags you can fit into your suitcase, there’s a flatscreen TV available to make the non-handbag carrying set feel at home. Address provided at time of booking (4832 3494/www.blitbags.com). Subte D, Scalabrini Ortiz/bus 10, 12, 15, 29, 60, 110, 128, 152, 160. Open 10am-7pm daily by appt. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. Doma If Kate Moss or Sienna Miller were in town and on the hunt for a leather jacket, Doma is where they’d go to find it. Forget shapeless old school classics – this brand is all about keeping up with the latest trends on the street, and it has reinvented the biker

Shopping

jacket to make it sexier than ever. There’s something for the rock chick too in the ‘American’ collection of jackets, which comes in a range of colours from classic dulce de leche and charcoal to electric blue. Much of the top-quality stock is made from velvety soft sheep’s leather. Pick up a vintage-style bag or a pair of suede heels to complete the boho-chic look. El Salvador 4693, y Armenia (4831 6852/www.doma-leather.com). Bus 15, 34, 39, 55, 110. Open 10.30am-8pm Mon-Fri; 11am-8pm Sat; 1.30-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. Other locations Martha Salotti 424, Puerto Madero (5787 5180); Gurruchaga 711, Villa Crespo (2058 7124). Humawaca At Humawaca, classic Argentinian leather meets innovative shapes and colours. Clutches, slouchy shoulder bags and structured handbags come in almost every colour imaginable, including bright pink, cherry red, sky blue, deep brown, or some combination of them. An expert design team was brought on board to develop bags that fuse modern technology with Humawaca’s signature style; for example, the leather and suede iPod shoulder bag allows the user to change the music via controls on the bag’s strap. If you go a little crazy with souvenir shopping during your stay, Humawaca also sells large bags suited for travel. El Salvador 4692, y Armenia (4832 2662/www.humawaca.com). Bus 39, 55, 151, 168. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat; 3-7pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Jackie Smith Plastic at the ready, ladies: these classic, feminine leather bags and shoes are too tempting to leave behind. The Bellini range with its glossy, black peep-toe heels and glamorous tote with a snakeskin effect is ideal for a Park Avenue princess – think Charlotte from Sex and the City. These are timeless totes, purses, shoulder bags, ballet pumps and boots are wardrobe staples with a twist of textured leather and modern colours. Gurruchaga 1660, entre Honduras y El Salvador (4115 6820/www. jackiesmith.com). Bus 15, 34, 55, 106, 110. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat; noon-7pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. Other locations Alcorta Shopping, Palermo (5777 6631); Galerías Pacífico shopping centre, Microcentro (4313 6114). Milla This is a must for leather-lovers keen to stand out from the everyday leather-clad crowd. Twin brother designers Diego and Sebastián Smolkin have done the Argentinian leather industry proud by creating quality pieces that incorporate sophistication and innovation. Jackets, bags, belts and accessories can be found in classic shades and designs, but what makes this collection shine is the vibrant colours – turquoise, purples, yellows and reds which, along with punky studs and zippers give the leather staples a cool individuality. Armenia 1534, entre Gorriti y Honduras (4831 4447/www.millastore. com.ar). Bus 15, 34, 39, 55, 151. Open 2-7pm Thu-Mon. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

LINGERIE

Belle Époque If Buenos Aires’s bounteous supply of steamy, lavishly frilled lingerie is a little too agent provocateur for your taste, Belle Époque offers a range that is slightly more demure, while remaining obviously feminine. Owner Marisol Finkielsztoym stocks beautifully crafted, elegant pieces with a retro, timeless quality. But if the designs attract a sophisticated clientele, the prices definitely demand a credit card to match. Costa Rica 4833, entre Thames y Jorge Luis Borges (4833 6860). Bus 34, 39, 55, 140, 151, 168. Open 1-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. SHOES – WOMEN’S

Chicco Ruiz Designer Lourdes Chicco Ruiz’s boutique, recently merged with clothing store DAM, is ideal for women who are keen to indulge their Cinderella fantasies. Besides offering a collection of pretty, handmade styles – from classic leather ankle boots to unconventional sculptural heels – in 15 to 20 days Chicco Ruiz can also produce a customised pair of shoes, starting from AR$1200. Thames 1780, entre Costa Rica y El Salvador (4831 1264/www. lourdeschiccoruiz.com.ar). Bus 34, 39, 55, 140, 151, 166. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, V. Map G3. Josefina Ferroni Josefina Ferroni’s highly desirable collections have won her fans across South America, Europe and the US, and have led to collaborations with

noted local fashion designers like Mariana Dappiano. Merging quality, style and comfort, Ferroni’s shoes succeed in combining elegance with practicality. For sophisticated sandals or gorgeous leather boots made not just for posing but also for walking, stop by and check out what’s new in Ferroni’s latest collection. Armenia 1687, entre Honduras y El Salvador (4831 4033/www. josefinaferroni.com.ar). Bus 15, 34, 36, 39, 55, 57, 106, 110, 140, 141, 151. Open 3-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. Miki & Choya Inés Figueroa Alcorta’s boutique shoe line is a huge hit with local celebrities and the city’s coolest fashionistas. Inés mixes quirky patterns, fabrics and embellishments to create some rather sassy porteño brogues, boots and sandals. Elaborate details make an everyday pair of ballet flats or loafers an extra special buy. Ugarteche 3306, entre Seguí y Avenida del Libertador (mobile 15 6299 1593/ www.mikichoya.com.ar). Bus 10, 37, 60, 110, 118, 128. Open 2.30-7.30pm Mon-Fri by appt. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G5. SHOES – MEN’S

28 Sport As its name suggests, 28 Sport takes its design cues from original sports footwear from the 1930s to the 1950s. The quality harks back to that era as well; all the shoes are hand stitched, with leather lining and reinforced toes, details that are hard to come by in modern footwear. These shoes and lace-up boots come in a multitude of colours and are moulded from original hockey, hiking, climbing, football, boxing and bowling designs. Unlike other brands with such a strong focus on quality and tradition, 28 Sport’s products are decidedly unstuffy and, better still, they are produced in limited editions. Get your hands on one of the extra-special pairs made only once, in just one size. Gurruchaga 1481, entre Cabrera y Gorriti (4833 4287/www.28sport.com). Bus 15, 168. Open 11.30am-1.30pm, 3-6pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. Apuesto Apuesto’s range of handmade footwear is a showcase of understated sophistication. Simple designs in browns and blacks ooze class and quality, while the charming leather espadrilles are perfect for BA’s fresh autumnal days. To complete the look, check out the brand new line of cotton shirts and fine Peruvian pima T-shirts, especially designed to complement your shiny new shoes. El Salvador 5772, y Carranza (4772 4206/www.apuestoba.com). Bus 39, 57, 93. Open 2-8pm Mon-Fri; 2-10pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2.

Mµvin (see p111)

110 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15

Terán In this black lacquered, minimalist shop, designer Gonzalo Terán’s exquisite footwear for discerning

gentlemen is the focus of attention. Expert artisans craft Terán’s designs with a range that includes the likes of lace-up boots and suede moccasins. His oxfords in pink suede or patent leather are perfect for trendy office-wear. Thames 1855, entre Costa Rica y Nicaragua (4831 7264/www.teran.com. ar). Bus 34, 36, 39, 55, 93, 111. Open noon-8.30pm daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. FOOD AND DRINK

The Pick Market New York has Dean & DeLuca, but Buenos Aires has few places where your eyes can feast as much as your stomach. This gourmet café and produce store fills that void, stocking the pick of the local and imported crop. Think fresh fruit and vegetables, meats and cheeses, baked goods, tea and coffee. Grab a bottle of wine (no corkage to drink it in the café), an Illy coffee and a cheese platter and turn your grocery shopping from a chore into a treat. Ugarteche 3154, y Cerviño (4806 5259/www.thepickmarket.com.ar). Bus 37, 41, 57, 59. Open 10am-9.30pm Sun-Tue; 10am-midnight Wed-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G4. Other locations Libertad 1212, Recoleta (0800 777 0204); Demaria 4527, Palermo (4772 2697). Sugar & Spice When Frank Almeida couldn’t find cookies like the ones he liked back home in Chicago, he enlisted the help of his wife Fabiana and they started baking them themselves. They’ve since branched out into pound cake – called budín here – as well as New York-style bagels, brownies, biscotti and stollen. The fruity pan dulce (panettone) is a local favourite and they also stock a small range of loose-leaf tea. Guatemala 5419, entre Humboldt y Avenida Juan B Justo (4777 5423/ www.sugarandspice.com.ar). Bus 29, 39, 60, 64, 67, 68, 111, 161. Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 9am-1pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. WINE

Lo de Joaquín Alberdi Step inside this attractive old house close to Palermo’s Plaza Serrano and let the enthusiastic, well-informed staff guide you through the wide range of wines. Boutique bodegas are especially

Siete Spirits Wines from all over the New World are stocked floor-to-ceiling in this snug little shop, but the speciality is Argentinian tinto (red) produced in small wineries, from Patagonia to Salta and everywhere in between. If wine isn’t your area of expertise, the knowledgeable, friendly staff will point you in the right direction, and discounts when you buy six or more bottles might have you upping your baggage allowance. To try before you buy, don’t miss the shop free weekly tastings, held on Thursdays between 6pm and 8pm. Nicaragua 5942, entre Arévalo y Ravignani (4779 2823/www.sietespirits. com). Subte D, Ministro Carranza/bus 39, 93, 168. Open noon-8pm Tue-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3.

Shopping

!Malambo Cheery porteño Alejandro Soler offers a friendly, customised service at his Palermo Soho vinoteca and deli. He’ll passionately talk you through each wine label you’re interested in and let you try before you buy his quality cheeses and hams. A great place for gifts, this foodie Aladdin’s den also stocks hard-to-find imported goods popular with homesick expats, such as Ecuadorian chocolate, Italian pasta, rye crispbread, Tabasco sauce and Heinz ketchup. Thames 2098, y Guatemala (4778 0870/www.malamboalmacen.com.ar). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 34, 39, 57, 152, 166. Open 11am-9pm, Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

well represented – some of the names to look out for include Achaval Ferrer and De Angeles. Stop by on Thursday or Friday at 7pm for a wine tasting. Jorge Luis Borges 1772, entre El Salvador y Costa Rica (4832 5329/ www.lodejoaquinalberdi.com). Bus 34, 55, 110, 141. Open 11am-9.30pm Mon-Sat; noon-7.30pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

MUSIC

!Miles Discos Browse in this relaxed record store and check out an eclectic mix of music at the listening posts; from rare jazz and traditional tango, to gospel and heavy metal, to world music and solo artists. This is also a good place to stock up on local and foreign films. Honduras 4969, entre Jorge Luis Borges y Gurruchaga (4832 0466/ www.milesdiscos.com.ar). Bus 15, 34. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Sat; noon-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. BIKING

Mµvin BA’s ever-expanding bike lanes make cycling an increasingly popular mode of transportation, so of course stylish cycling gear is a necessity. Located along the Gorriti bike path, Mµvin fits the bill. The colourful and modern store presents a stylish mix of form and function, with bike accessories like locks, chains, helmets and baskets in chic prints and colours to spiff up even the most dreary two-wheeler. The bicycles are the pièce de résistance and likely a source of eye candy and envy for every cyclist who passes by. There’s also a rack of bike-friendly clothing, such as jackets with built-in reflectors, to complete your ‘cycle chic’ look. Gorriti 5051, entre Thames y Serrano (4833 2154/www.muvin.com.ar). Bus 34, 39, 55. Open 10am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. TRADITIONAL CRAFTS

Arte Étnico Argentino Beyond the pretty courtyard of this shop are a couple of rooms – one full of beautiful, bright textiles; the other packed with an assortment of painted wardrobes, lovely leather and carob Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15 111

Shopping

Top new jewellery designers

Mora Lasnier Joyería

Demineral Conceived by friends Lucila Rastellini and Mayra Elin, Demineral stands out for its innate simplicity. The line’s pure forms and clean aesthetic recall Rastellini and Elin’s backgrounds in architecture. The covetable, handmade pieces incorporate prime materials, and can also be found at the MALBA gift shop (see p126). Showroom by appt (demineral. accesorios@gmail.com/www. facebook.com/demineral). Joya Joya is a sneak peek into the beguiling world of visual merchandiser and avid collector Mercedes Lestourneaud. Lestourneaud comes from a family of jewellers, and frequently draws inspiration from her roots in her native Bariloche, as well as from the priceless keepsakes and antiques she has collected and restored over the years. She often incorporates materials sourced from nature during her travels, such as driftwood and stones. Showroom by appt (mechi. lestourneaud@gmail.com/www. facebook.com/joya.ml). Virginia Jakim Jakim’s jewellery is playful and tongue in cheek, challenging the more conventional approaches to luxury joyería and its use as a form of self-expression. With references to the digital age and local popular culture, her bold and often witty creations are as much a social commentary as they are fashion accessories. Showroom by appt (virginiajakim@ gmail.com/www.facebook.com/ virginiajakimjoyeriajewellery).

Mora Lasnier Joyería Mora worked as a stylist for ten years, and with a background in photography, her influences have been equally driven by art and fashion. It’s hardly surprising then that she chose to launch her debut collection in July 2014 in the form of an art exhibition at the hip closed door Palermo gallery and collective OTERO, where she currently has her studio. Her pieces are both conceptual works of art and fashion accessories. She uses precious materials to rework and challenge our perceptions of popular jewellery, producing her artisan creations on a made-toorder basis, although she has limited stock for sale. Showroom by appt (mora.lasnier@ gmail.com/www.facebook.com/ moralasnier.joyeria). Dolores Trull Having enjoyed a hugely successful career locally as a fashion model, Dolores Trull is slowly building a reputation as a gifted jewellery maker. Working from her Recoleta workshop, Trull creates pieces that are artisan to the core, many mimicking imperfect forms from nature, and setting both precious and semi-precious stones from emeralds and sapphires to amethysts and tourmaline in her signature rings. Available at Carolina Müller Boutique (Local 13, Galería Promenade Alvear, Avenida Alvear 1883, 4801 2157). For more jewellery scoops and personalised shopping tours, contact Vanessa Bell of Creme de la Creme (mobile 15 3857 8127, www.cremedelacremeba.com).

112 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15

wood tables, colourful saint boxes made from recycled wood, and chairs hanging from the ceiling. The pieces are all handmade by the QuichuaSantiagueño peoples of the relatively unvisited northern province of Santiago del Estero. El Salvador 4656, entre Armenia y Malabia (4832 0516/www. arteetnicoargentino.com). Bus 34, 55, 140, 141, 151, 160, 168. Open 11am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-2pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. !Elementos Argentinos Fernando Bach and Pablo Mendívil stock a selection of irresistible textile art and other unique objects at their Palermo store, where English-speaking staff are on hand to help. Handmade by craftspeople from the northern provinces of Argentina, the pieces range from blankets and cushions to toys, furniture and an absolutely stunning stock of one-of-a-kind hand-loomed rugs. Gurruchaga 1881, entre Nicaragua y Costa Rica (4832 6299/www. elementosargentinos.com.ar). Bus 39, 93, 161. Open 11am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. Other location Arenales 1321, Recoleta (4811 0653).

Abasto and Once

A little rough around the edges, Abasto is home to the massive Abasto de Buenos Aires shopping centre. Neighbouring Once (pronounced ‘on-say’) is a warren of wholesale fabric stores. SHOPPING CENTRES

Abasto de Buenos Aires This converted fruit market is one of the finest examples of art deco architecture in the city, which makes it a great venue for window shopping. It’s also a magnet for hordes of teenagers, though there are stores for all ages and tastes. Abasto contains a kids’ play area, a cinema, a large food court with a kosher McDonalds (the only one outside of Israel) and some 230 shops, including Bowen, Zara and Rapsodia. Be warned: this shopping centre is hectic at the weekend. Avenida Corrientes 3247, entre Agüero y Anchorena (4959 3400/www. abasto-shopping.com.ar). Subte B, Carlos Gardel/bus 24, 26, 29, 64, 68, 71, 118, 124, 168. Open 10am-10pm daily. Credit varies. Map E3.

Belgrano, Colegiales and Villa Crespo Venture beyond Palermo into these up-and-coming neighbourhoods for bargain leather goods and factory outlet stores offering discounted clothing. (Calle Murillo in Villa Crespo is leather central). The Mercado de las

Pulgas (see p114) is an atmospheric, furniture-filled flea market, easy to get lost in for an afternoon. FASHION – BOUTIQUES

Balaciano At Marina Balaciano’s shop-cumshowroom, you can browse the rails of this designer’s pretty womenswear. Among the top-quality fabrics employed in Marina’s designs are satin, cashmere, Italian wool and French lace, and interesting details include embroidery and Swarovski crystal decoration. Romantic dresses and chic coats are trademark pieces. Zabala 2939, entre Conesa y Zapiola, Colegiales (mobile 15 3196 1641). Bus 151, 168. Open 8am-8pm Mon-Sat by appt. Credit AmEx, MC, V.

NEW Unión Tienda Tucked away in a mostly residential area of Belgrano, this shop sells a whimsical mix of clothing, accessories, jewellery and home wares. Eclectic though its selection may be, every item is the product of local designers. Standouts include hand-painted ceramic bowls from brand Flinckii, knitwear from expat designer Elizabeth Gleeson’s new line, URSA, and delicate, laser-cut T-shirts and sweaters from Petite M. And for when you’ve hardly got room in your suitcase, make a stop at the gorgeous display of jewellery. 3 de Febrero 2086, y Juramento, Belgrano (4783 1253). Bus 29, 44, 55, 60. Open 4-8pm Mon-Fri; 11am-3pm; 4-8pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. FASHION – CHAINS

Kosiuko When Britney Spears shoehorned herself into a pair of Kosiuko jeans for her ‘Overprotected’ video clip, it did wonders for raising the profile (and revenue) of the Argentinian streetwear label. Jeans and accessories are timeless Kosiuko staples, while the label also offers a rocker-inspired men’s line and cute options for kids. Avenida Cabildo 1940, entre Echeverría y Sucre, Belgrano (4788 8228/www.kosiuko.com). Bus 55, 151. Open 10am-8.30pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Other locations throughout the city. FASHION – CHILDREN’S AND MATERNITY

Mimo & Co. Mimo has been bringing its practical, modern clothing to boys and girls for more than three decades, with products that include garments, footwear and accessories for newborns to 12 year olds. There are ladylike coats, snug Fair Isle-inspired knitwear, faux fur gilets, sweet shorts, hooded tops, cargo pants and practical rain jackets. In fact, it’s all so adorably cute, you’ll wish they had it in adult sizes. Gurruchaga 935, y Loyola, Villa Crespo (5197 5562/www.mimo.com.ar). Bus 15, 19, 24, 34, 55, 57, 90, 106, 109, 110, 127, 140, 141, 151, 166. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat; 2-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. Other locations Avenida Santa Fe 1922, Recoleta (4811 0915); and branches throughout the city.

LEATHER GOODS

Murillo 666 On this stretch of calle Murillo between Scalabrini Ortiz and Gurruchaga, there are plenty of outlets that offer leather jackets at below bargain-basement prices. Murillo 666 stands out for its huge selection, which includes handbags, belts, wallets, luggage and even sofas: if you want it, you’ll probably find it here, and if not here, then it will almost certainly be in one of the other leather stores on the block. Murillo 666, entre Acevedo y Malabia, Villa Crespo (4856 4501/www. murillo666.com.ar). Subte B, Malabia/ bus 15, 19, 24, 76, 109, 112. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Sat; 2-7pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G1.

HAIRDRESSERS

Cerini A flawless finish is what Cerini’s all about. Colouring, roll-brush drying, trims, manicures and pedicures are done by professional stylists. Foreign visitors swear this is a safe place to get your hair cut. Highlights are done old school style, with a cap, but this is common practice in BA, and they come out fine. Marcelo T de Alvear 1471, entre Paraná y Uruguay, Recoleta (4813 3594/www.cerini.net). Bus 10, 17, 39. Open 8am-10pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. Other locations Sucre 2245, Belgrano (4787 3400); Alcorta Shopping, Palermo (4800 1815). Portrait Peluquería This Parisian-style salon, presided over by the talented hairstylist Ramiro de Vooght, offers quality service in a luxurious environment secluded from city sounds and stresses. Massages and waxing are also offered. Gorriti 4687, entre Armenia y Malabia, Palermo (4833 3736/www. portraitpeluqueria.com). Bus 15, 39, 140, 141, 151. Open 11am-8pm Tue-Sat. Credit MC, V. Map G2. Roho Hair Boutique There’s a reason Oscar Fernández’s famed salon is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year. The first cutting edge hair salon to open in Buenos Aires, Roho maintains its finger firmly on the pulse of the latest trends year after year. Its reputation as a salon to rock stars (it was a favourite for local rock royalty Luis Alberto Spinetta and Gustavo Cerati) precedes it, but Roho’s friendly and approachable stylists make absolutely everyone feel welcome. Malabia 1931, y Nicaragua (4833 7227/www.roho.com.ar). Bus 39, 55. Open 10am-9pm Mon-Fri; 10am-8pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. Other location República de la Indonesia 66, Caballito (4904 0236). Terrie Orr Anyone who has gone in for a trim and stepped out with a mullet will appreciate this Irish hairdresser’s attentiveness to instructions and detail. Friendly, professional and thorough,

OPTICIANS

!Carla Di Sí Innovative local eyewear designer Carla Di Sí has her own classy and sassy line, with an emphasis on handmade frames. Colourful cat-eye glasses and hexagonal tortoiseshell lenses are perfect accessories for any fashionista. Vintage fans will also love the selection of antique frames sourced by Carla’s optician grandfather. The service here is attentive and honest – much appreciated when you’re squinting away at your bespectacled reflection. Gurruchaga 1677, entre El Salvador y Honduras, Palermo (4832 1655/www. carladisi.com.ar). Bus 15, 39, 168. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat; 3-7pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

Open 10.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. SPAS AND MASSAGES

Home Spa The spa at Home Hotel (see p156) is the perfect place for a pampering experience after a hard day’s shopping in Palermo. Open to both guests and non-guests, the spa offers a range of treatments including Thai Shiatsu and hot stone massages. Enquire about the Spa Day, which includes use of the hotel pool and a glorious massage. Honduras 5860, entre Carranza y Ravignani, Palermo (4778 1008/www. homebuenosaires.com). Bus 39, 93, 108, 111. Open 10am-8pm Wed-Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2.

NEW Markus Aesthetics and Biological Medicine The same people who created the men-only Markus Day Spa (see p136) have introdcued a new salon – this time for everyone. The Recoleta centre covers everything aesthetic, with an emphasis on anti-aging interventions like cellular therap, Botox and personalised menopause treatments. Apatment B, ground floor, Infinit Boutique Avenida Callao 1046, y The stock at this cool Marcelo T de Alvear, eyewear emporium Recoleta (4814 1141). usually includes Subte D, Callao/bus 39, Wax attack tortoiseshell frames that Getting a wax in BA? Ask 60, 95, 108, 111. Open are reminiscent of for cavado for bikini line, 10am-7pm Mon-Thu; vintage specs, cat-eye axilas for armpits, pierna noon-8pm Fri. Credit frames with metallic AmEx, MC, V. Map E4. entera for full leg and detailing in the corners, Other location Uriarte bozo for upper and sunglasses in a 1867, Palermo (4814 1141). lip. variety of shapes and colours. Thames 1602, y Honduras, Nicola Tarbuck Palermo (4831 7070/www.infinit.la). Massage and physical therapist Nicola Bus 34, 39, 55, 168. Open 11am-8pm Tarbuck’s past clients include Roger Mon-Sat; 3-7pm Sun. Credit AmEx, Waters, Justin Bieber and the entire cast MC, V. Map G2. of Cirque du Soleil. Luckily for us mere mortals, she now offers her fantastic PHARMACIES services from the same Palermo FarmaCity apartment as hairdresser Terrie Orr (see This mega-chain has plenty of left). Thanks to over 12 years of well-stocked stores across the city, and experience, Tarbuck can pinpoint the most are open 24 hours and offer source of aches and pains, easing them delivery services. Remember that some out slowly with her capable hands. She prescriptions cannot be filled outside also specialises in back pain and your home country. post-injury rehabilitation, and provides a Florida 474, entre Avenida Corrientes range of services to pregnant ladies. y Lavalle, Microcentro (4322 6559/ Address provided at the time of www.farmacity.com). Subte B, Florida/ booking, Palermo (mobile 15 6661 bus 10, 22, 105, 140. Open 24hrs 6836/nicolatarbuck@gmail.com). Subte daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C5. D, Palermo/bus 10, 37, 55, 160. Open Other locations throughout the city. 9am-8pm Mon-Fri; noon-3pm Sat by appt. No credit cards. Map H4.

TOP TIP!

MANICURISTS

Queenies Treating oneself has never been so easy at this nail parlour turned all-inclusive beauty salon. Nails are the hottest accessory in BA and here you can get a daring animal-print manicure and glamorous ‘nail-overs’. Afterwards, step next door into the new beauty salon where you can get your face cleansed, plucked and pampered. Offering luxurious facial treatments and a range of beauty products, Queenies is top of the list with the ultimate stylists in town. Fitz Roy 1879, y Costa Rica, Palermo (4899 0746/www.queeniesbuenosaires. com). Bus 34, 39, 57, 93, 108, 111.

Spa Castelar A great value spa in the centre of the city, the Spa Castelar is open to non-guests of the Castelar hotel and is divided into male and female sectors. Relax in the saunas or pop into the Turkish and Finnish baths, or try a stress-relieving massage. Avenida de Mayo 1148, entre Salta y Lima, Congreso (4381 4037/www. castelarhotel.com.ar). Subte A, Lima/ bus 2, 5, 8, 9, 10, 17, 24, 29, 39, 45, 56, 98, 100, 102, 103, 105, 111, 129. Open Men 11am-9pm Mon-Fri; 9am-8pm Sat. Women noon-9pm Mon-Fri; 11am-8pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C4. Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15 113

Shopping

Health and beauty

Terrie works from her Palermo apartment and specialises in colour corrections. She is also a qualified HD brow therapist. Address provided at time of booking, Palermo (mobile 15 3432 4141/ terrie.orr@gmail.com). Subte D, Palermo/bus 10, 37, 130, 160. Open 9am-9.30pm Mon-Sat by appt. No credit cards. Map H4.

WAXING

The Beauty Saloon Hairlessness is big business in this city, but if grinning and baring it all in any old backstreet dive is not your idea of a rip-roaring time, then head to the depilación experts at this sleek Recoleta boutique. As well as waxing every nook and cranny, they have nailed the art of manis and pedis, and also offer massages and facial treatments. Uriburu 1397, y French, Recoleta (2066 2671). Bus 10, 118. Open 9am-8pm Tue-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E4.

Shopping index

Shopping

Markets Feria de Mataderos This colourful food and crafts fair takes over the central square of Mataderos, a 45-min bus ride from the city centre. The fair is the place to come for a taste of the pampas and to buy authentic gaucho gear – think silver knives, leather belts, country hats and dulce de leche. Avenida Lisandro de la Torre, y San Pedro, Mataderos (www. feriademataderos.com.ar). Bus 55, 80, 92, 126. Open Mar-Dec 11am-8pm Sun; late Jan, Feb 5-9.30pm Sat. Feria San Pedro Telmo Stroll down calle Defensa and its surrounding streets on a Sunday to soak up the atmosphere of this fair. Marvel at the busking talent and check out hundreds of stalls selling antiques, handmade jewellery, tango memorabilia, paintings, funky clothing, second-hand books, leather accessories and a host of other items. As the sun goes down, you’ll see stallholders in Plaza Dorrego pack away their wares and part of the square transform into an atmospheric outdoor milonga (a social tango dance). Plaza Dorrego, y Defensa entre Avenida de Mayo y Avenida San Juan, San Telmo (www.feriadesantelmo.com). Bus 9, 10. Open 10am-5pm Sun. Map B4. Mercado de las Pulgas This cluttered flea market on the Colegiales/Palermo border focuses on antique furniture and quirky household items. Packed with atmosphere and random treasures, it’s a good alternative for fans of vintage who are tired of the more touristy and jam-packed weekend market in San Telmo. Conde y Dorrego, Colegiales (www. elmercadodepulgas.com.ar). Bus 39, 93. Open 2-6pm Tue-Sun. Map H2. Mercado de San Telmo This market, with various entrances including one opposite La Brigada (see p35), is a not only a great place to find fresh fruit, vegetables and meat, as well as antiques and leather goods, its stunning ironwork makes for a great spot for a photo-op. There are also a few second-hand record shops, and the deli sells parma ham, delicious mini alfajores, home-made jams and pickles and soft Argentinian cheeses. Defensa 961, entre Estados Unidos y Carlos Calvo, San Telmo. Bus 4, 8, 9, 143. Open 8am-8pm daily. Map B4.

Josefina Ferroni (see p110)

Antiques, art and collectibles Gabriel Del Campo Anticuario HB Antigüedades Biking Mµvin

98 98 111

Bookshops Alamut Libros Ateneo Grand Splendid Dain Usina Cultural Fedro San Telmo Libros del Pasaje Walrus Books

103 100 103 98 103 98

Design and home accessories Autoría BsAs Cualquier Verdura Fueguia L’Ago Papelera Palermo Paul Pehache Sabater Hermanos Salmón Tienda Wussmann

97 98 100 98 104 104 104 104 104 100

Fashion Boutiques Amores Trash Couture Balaciano Cultivo Diseño Lupe Panorama Pesqueira Puntos en el Espacio Reunión Seco Tupã Unión Tienda

106 112 102 106 106 107 98 108 106 107 112

Chains Chocolate De la Ostia Desiderata Kosiuko Las Pepas María Cher Paula Cahen D’Anvers Rapsodia Vitamina

100 104 100 112 100 104 104 105 105

Children and maternity Mimo & Co. Venga Madre

112 102

Designer Agostina Bianchi Blackmamba Cecilia Gadea Cora Groppo Cubreme DODDS Dubié Garza Lobos JT Juana de Arco Mariana Dappiano Them

114 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15

105 105 105 105 105 100 106 106 104 106 106 106

Tramando Vestite y Andate Vevû

100 106 106

Hats Compañia de Sombreros

Food and drink Malambo The Pick Market Sugar & Spice

111 111 111

107

Jewellery 925nueveveintecinco Demineral Dolores Trull Joya Manu Lizarralde Marcelo Toledo Mora Lasnier Joyería Oleana Patrón Plata Nativa Signos Virginia Jakim

108 112 112 112 108 98 112 102 108 97 98 112

Wine Lo de Joaquín Alberdi Siete Spirits

111 111

Leather goods Blit Bags Casa Lopez Doma Humawaca Jackie Smith Milla Murillo 666 Peter Kent Prüne Rossi & Caruso Santesteban

108 97 108 110 110 110 113 102 97 102 102

Lingerie and swimwear Belle Époque Caro Cuore

110 107

Menswear Bensimon Bolivia Bowen Cuggini Etiqueta Negra Félix Hermanos Estebecorena Key Biscayne La Martina

Health and beauty Hairdressers Cerini Portrait Peluquería Roho Hair Boutique Terrie Orr

113 113 113 113

Opticians Carla Di Sí Infinit Boutique Palo Santo

113 113 107

Pharmacies FarmaCity

113

Manicurists Queenies

113

Spas and massages Home Spa Markus Aesthetics Nicola Tarbuck Spa Castelar

113 113 113 113

Waxing The Beauty Saloon

114

107 107 107 107 107 108 108 108 97

Markets Feria de Mataderos Feria San Pedro Telmo Mercado de las Pulgas Mercado de San Telmo

114 114 114 114

Shoes – Men’s 28 Sport Apuesto Terán

Music Abraxas Miles Discos Zivals

103 111 97

110 110 110

Sports and outdoor gear Wildlife

Shoes – Women’s Chicco Ruiz Comme Il Faut Josefina Ferroni Miki & Choya Mishka

110 102 110 110 107

Vintage and used Bimba Vintage El Buen Orden Galería 5ta Avenida Gil Antigüedades Juan Pérez Vittorita

108 98 102 98 102 97

Shopping centres Abasto de Buenos Aires Alcorta Shopping Alto Palermo Galería Bond Street Galería Patio del Liceo Galerías Pacífico Patio Bullrich Recoleta Mall

112 103 103 100 100 97 100 100

Traditional crafts Arandú Arte Étnico Argentino Elementos Argentinos

103 111 112

Arts & Leisure

Photograph: Robert Wright

Around Town

116

Art

125

Film & Media

129

Fitness & Sports

131

Gay & Lesbian

134

Music

138

Performing Arts

141

Tango

144

Around Town Daniel Tunnard shows you how to bus it around the best parts of Buenos Aires on its famed colectivos. Illustration by Gustavo Guevara

he Buenos Aires Bus, one of those yellow double deckers you see carting tourists around the city’s most popular attractions, gets a decidedly mixed bag of reviews from its passengers (a popular criticism: ‘you can hop off, but don’t expect to be able to hop back on again’). Many travellers love its convenience and comfort, but if you want to experience the city the way a porteño does, you’re better off taking the city’s legendary colectivos. The tour bus costs AR$170 for adults and AR$85 for ‘childs’

(that sort of grammatical error being a preview of what to expect on the tour’s accompanying audio commentary), while the colectivo will set you back just a few pesos per trip. You’ll have to rely on your fellow passengers for commentary on the surrounding sites, however. Invest in a SUBE card (www.sube.gob.ar) for AR$20,

THE BUENOS AIRES

Bus Tour and rides are less than 4 pesos – without a SUBE, you’ll have to figure out how to mint your own coins in order to cough up the exact coinage for every trip. If you can’t find your stop, don’t hesitate to ask a local for help. Considering that many Argentinians claim their country invented the public bus,

they certainly want visitors to enjoy their lines to the fullest extent. For more information on bus routes, pick up a Guía T at any kiosko, or check out www. loscolectivos.com.ar or mapa. buenosaires.gob.ar. You can also contact Buenos Aires Local Tours (www.buenosaireslocaltours.com)

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and request an English-speaking guide to accompany you as you explore BA via colectivo and Subte. The 39 The brown and white 39 takes in

Chacarita, Colegiales, Barrio Norte, then runs parallel to Avenida 9 de Julio until Constitución, skirts round San Telmo and finishes in Barracas. Start your journey in Palermo Soho. Grab a Colombian coffee to go at Full City Coffee House (see p24) and catch the 39 a block away, on Honduras and Thames, near Plaza Serrano (see 121). Stay on until the end of the line at Avenida Federico Lacroze and Avenida

Corrientes, across the street from the sprawling Chacarita Cemetery (see p122). The cemetery is the final resting site of tango legend Carlos Gardel and home to immense walls of niches and the German and British ‘dissident’ cemeteries. It’s just as stunning as the more famed Recoleta Cemetery (see p120),

but without the Evita groupies. It’s also just across the street from a slew of classic Argentinian pizzerias; try a slice of fugazetta (an onion and cheese-laden confection) at Santa María (Corrientes 6801, 4553

2763). If it’s too early for pizza, order the slice para llevar (to go) to snack on later. Hop back on the 39 at Lacroze and Corrientes, and ride through the pretty tree-lined streets of Colegiales and Palermo, all the way to the opulent Teatro Colón (see p142), at Talcahuano and Lavalle. Take in the historical theatre, where guided tours are available daily for AR$130.

though). The 29 then takes in the fine sweep of Diagonal Norte (the only block in the city where all the buildings are exactly the same height, something of a feat among Buenos Aires’s mismatched architecture), before heading through San Telmo’s prettier parts and ending its run on Avenida Pedro de Mendoza in La Boca. Get off the bus, and head to Caminito (see p120). If the 29 could take you through the area it would, but then Caminito wouldn’t be called

The 152 Starting in Olivos, the blue and white 152 takes in the whole of Avenidas Cabildo and Santa Fe, goes through Palermo and Recoleta to Retiro, then along Avenida Alem, round the back of the Casa Rosada and ends in La Boca. From where you got off the 29, Avenida Pedro de Mendoza and Avenida Brown, take the 152 back into town along Paseo Colón, before

nipping round the back of the Casa Rosada (see p118). The rosecoloured presidential palace is particularly impressive at night, if you like gaudily illuminated pink things and huge flags. Jump off at the Plaza de Mayo (see p118), a

site of frequent demonstrations and a commemoration to the May Revolution of 1810, which marked Argentina’s independence. Once you’ve taken the prerequisite photo of yourself in front of the pink house, walk east to Puerto Madero and across the Puente de la Mujer (see p122). For an open-air snack, buy a bondiola completa (a pork shoulder sandwich topped with cheese and a fried egg) at a carrito on Costanera Sur and then take a stroll round the Reserva Ecológica (see p122), home to over 200 bird species and a popular spot for joggers and picnickers. It’ll take you hours to see the whole thing, but the reserves makes for a pleasant momentary escape from urban life. The 130 The cream and green 130 winds through the prettier streets of Núñez and Belgrano, the posh end of Palermo and past the MALBA, Recoleta and Retiro, before ending in La Boca. When you’ve had your fill of twitchers at the Ecological Reserve, cross the Puente de la Mujer again to catch the 130 at Avenida Belgrano and Avenida Paseo Colón. The line will take you past the grandeur of the Torre de los Ingleses (see p118), now known as the Torre Monumental in the wake of the Falklands-Malvinas War, and Plaza San Martín (see p118). Ride the bus down Avenida Libertador, where you’ll pass the Museo de Bellas Artes (see p126), the Facultad de Derecho (see p120) and the Recoleta Cemetery, and that big metal flower (even many long-term residents are unaware that its official name is the Floralis Genérica). Get off at Avenida del Libertador and Avenida Pueyrredón, and walk up the grassy knoll to reach the famed cemetery. To grab an early evening drink, head to Camping (Avenida Pueyrredón 2501, www.campingba.com). The stand located in the Buenos Aires Design complex is the city’s first open-air beer garden, and serves craft beer along with sandwiches, milanesas, soups and salads. From there, walk six blocks along Avenida Figueroa Alcorta to reach the Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (see p126). The MALBA, while small in size, consistently hosts some of the best art exhibitions to come to the capital. The 160 The red 160 starts from the south in Boedo, passes through Almagro, before crossing the southern part of Palermo, looping through Plaza Italia and on to Ciudad Universitaria. To get in a few final sites in one go, from the MALBA walk six blocks down Jerónimo Salguero to Avenida Las Heras. You’ll pass Le Pain Quotidien (see p27) along the way, a lovely spot to grab a coffee and a croissant. At the corner of Parque

Las Heras, hop on the 160. It’ll take you to Plaza Italia (see p120), before cutting through the Bosques de Palermo (see p121) and going along the city’s northern river coast, past the city airport and Tierra Santa (see p122), a religious theme park highly recommended for anyone with a heightened sense of irony. The bus stops at Ciudad Universitaria, leaving you only a short walk away from the Parque de la Memoria (see p122), a poignant memorial to those who lost their lives in the military dictatorship of 1976-83. You’re also within walking distance of Estadio Monumental (see p132), where Argentina won the 1978 World Cup. The 8 The white and blue 8 line goes from La Boca to Plaza de Mayo, then along Avenida de Mayo and the length of Avenida Rivadavia, through Congreso, Almagro, Caballito, Liniers and, eventually, to Ezeiza Airport. If it’s time to leave and you still haven’t seen all the sights, slip in a few more on the 8 line, the cheapskate option for getting to Ezeiza airport. (You may save yourself around AR$300 in cab fare, but be prepared to give yourself at least two hours to arrive at the airport.) Hop on the 8 at the start of Avenida de Mayo and take in its old world charms. You’ll pass landmarks like the Palacio del Congreso (see p118). The ride will take you along nearly all 117 blocks of Avenida Rivadavia, the city’s second-longest thoroughfare (though many residents mistakenly claim it to be the longest), and then a bit of Avenida General Paz (the city’s proper longest thoroughfare) before dropping you off at the airport. Rather ironically, ‘General Peace Avenue’ is named after José María Paz, a former Minister of War. Daniel Tunnard is the author of ‘Colectivaizeishon, el inglés que tomó todos los colectivos de Buenos Aires’, published by Penguin Random House (2013) and available at major bookshops. You can read more at www.colectivaizeishon.com.

Colectivo fares Colectivo fares vary depending on the distance travelled. Before you swipe your SUBE card, indicate either the cross streets you’re headed to, or the amount you’ll pay (3.25, tres veinte cinco, is usually a safe bet if you’re not sure) to the driver. Note that with Argentina’s inflation rate, Subte and colectivo fares are subject to increase every few months. KM WITH SUBE WITHOUT SUBE under 3km AR$3.00 AR$6.00 3-6km AR$3.25 AR$6.50 6-12km AR$3.50 AR$7.00 12-27km AR$4.00 AR$8.00 over 27km AR$4.70 AR$9.20

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Around Town

The 29 The blue 29 starts in northern suburb Olivos, passes the Parque de la Memoria, then heads through Barrio Chino, Las Cañitas, Plaza Italia, and down to the Obelisco, Plaza de Mayo, San Telmo and La Boca. After the theatre tour, catch the 29 at Talcahuano and Lavalle, and sit next to the driver with your camera so you can catch a shot of the Obelisco (see p118) as you pass it head-on (keep your valuables out of site when you’re off the bus and on the street,

Caminito (that’s ‘little walkway’ for Anglophones). If its colourful houses and tango dancers aren’t to your taste, you’re just a block away from the Fundación Proa (see p126), one of Buenos Aires’s best art museums. The gallery also houses a bookstore and lovely café, the perfect place for a light lunch, or even just an air-conditioned escape from the summer heat. Football fans, you’re just three blocks from the Boca Juniors Stadium, known as La Bombonera (see p132).

The basics

Around Town

Take a bus from dilapidated southern barrio La Boca to the leafy and posh northern neighbourhood Recoleta, and you could easily be fooled into thinking you’ve entered a differnt city. But such incongruities are simply a part of life in Buenos Aires, where crumbling 100-year-old mansions share a block with sleek, modern apartment buildings, and the lipstick-pink presidential palace sits among a sea of financial greys towers. In a city as expanisve as Buenos Aires, even some long-term residents haven’t visited every single neighbourhood. But that’s part of the fun – with so many strings to its bow, Buenos Aires has seduced many a tourist into making a return visit, or even staying for good. GETTING AROUND To find your way around, use the map references throughout the magazine, which correspond to the map on page 174. Public transport in BA is excellent, with the simplest mode for disoriented travellers being the Subte (underground train). A single journey costs AR$5.00, or AR$4.50 with a Sube card (see p176). Buses, known as colectivos, are the city’s lifeblood. See page 176 for prices and information. If you plan to do much travelling by bus, a Guía T bus routes booklet, sold at kiosks or by roaming vendors, will stand you in excellent stead. You can also plan your trip by bus, Subte, train and even by bike online with the useful www.mapa.buenosaires.gob.ar. Taxi drivers pride themselves on city knowledge, but it’s safest to stick to radio taxis with a company phone number on the passenger door, as dishonest drivers have been known to

take advantage of tourists. Better still, explore the streets on foot. THE CENTRE

French-style palaces, wide avenues and green plazas meet choking traffic and clamorous protestors: the city’s historic and commercial nerve centre, Centro – Microcentro and beyond – is where former splendour and urban dreams compete with grittier realities.

which links Plaza de Mayo with Congress, 15 blocks west, a lovely choice for an atmospheric city-centre stroll. The outstanding edifice is the Palacio Barolo at number 1370. One of the city’s most emblematic buildings, this wonderful 1923 construction is a neo-Gothic tribute to the 100 cantos of Dante’s Divine Comedy. Subte A, Plaza de Mayo, Perú, Piedras, Lima, Sáenz Peña or D, Catedral or E, Bolívar/bus 39, 64, 168. Map C4, C5. ! Take five Head to the grand Café Tortoni (see p25) for a drink and a bite to eat in elegant surroundings.

whole block, is the magnificent Teatro Colón (see p142). The Diagonal Norte avenue (also known as Roque Sáenz Peña), which links Tribunales with the Plaza de Mayo, is a masterpiece of urban harmony whose every building is ten storeys tall and has a second-floor balcony. Erected in 1936 to mark the 400th anniversary of the founding of the city, the phallic, 68-metre cement spike El Obelisco sits at the intersection of Avenida Corrientes and Avenida 9 de Julio, said to be the widest street in the world. Eight blocks down in the middle of Avenida 9 de Julio near the intersection of Avenida Belgrano, stands the Ministry of Social Development building, emblazoned on two sides with gigantic contrasting murals of Eva Perón, which are illuminated at night. Facing the north of the city, Evita appears caught up in a fiery speech, while on the other side she casts her saintly smile over the traditionally working-class barrios of the south. The epicentre of BA’s mainstream theatre district lies just west of the obelisk, along a razzle-dazzle stretch of Avenida Corrientes that extends up to Avenida Callao. The former is also known for its rather run-down late-night bookshops. Subte A, Sáenz Peña or B, Uruguay or D, Tribunales/bus 60. Map C3, D4. ! Take five Tuck into a slice of seriously cheesy thick-crust pizza topped with fainá (chickpea bread) at El Cuartito (see p32).

Plaza de Mayo BA’s historic central square is still a magnet for protests and celebrations, which gravitate towards the vividly pink Casa Rosada presidential Congreso palace. Facing it, the Cabildo was the This relatively run-down downtown headquarters of the city council from neighbourhood nevertheless contains a 1580 to 1821. On the northern side few flashes of grandeur. Completed of the plaza, the neoclassical in 1906, the parliament Catedral building, Palacio del Metropolitana houses Congreso is a grand the remains of the dome-and-column affair, Easy Taxi and can be visited via a liberator José de San For a guaranteed safe free guided tour in Martín, who died in ride, get the Easy Taxi France in 1850. At the app and call a registered English on Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and centre of the Plaza is the taxi with just one click. Friday at 12.30pm and Pirámide de Mayo, an 5pm (4010 3000, www. obelisk raised in 1811 for congreso.gov.ar, closed Jan). the first anniversary of the May Subte A, Congreso/bus 12, 60, 105. revolution. Don’t miss the whiteheadscarved Madres de Plaza de Mayo, Map C3, C4, D4. ! Take five Traditional Club del who still march around the pyramid Progreso (see p30) is a lovely lunch with banners and photos each spot for meat-lovers. Thursday from 3.30pm, protesting the disappearance of their sons and Tribunales daughters during the last military The heart of the city’s legal scene, dictatorship (1976-83). Subte A, Plaza de Mayo or D, Catedral Tribunales is home to law courts and or E, Bolívar/bus 22, 56, 126. Map C5. law firms. The centrepiece of the neighbourhood is the Palacio de ! Take five Stop off for a bite at the Justicia, seat of the Supreme Court. café in the Cabildo’s patio. Stretching out in front as far as Avenida Córdoba is Plaza Lavalle, an attractive Avenida de Mayo European-style buildings with exquisite green spot rich in history and sprawling ceibo trees. Across the plaza, filling a architectural details make this avenue,

TOP TIP!

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FOTO RUTA

Sightseeing in BA can be a tiring business

Microcentro On weekdays during business hours the downtown district is a maelstrom of porteños shopping, working, running, shouting and flouting traffic laws. The motherlode of the mayhem is pedestrianised calle Florida, an elegant thoroughfare back in the day, but now unashamedly commercial. Nearby calle Lavalle, on the other hand, packed with B-movie cinemas and gaudy, eye-searing signs, makes the hectic calle Florida look positively chic in comparison. Subte B, Florida or C, Lavalle or D, Catedral/bus 4, 20, 152. Map C5, D5. ! Take five Grab a caffeine boost to go at coffee stand Barrio Cafetero (Florida 833, 4313 5669). Retiro For centuries, this area was the northern edge of the city. Today, the area’s main attraction, aside from the railway stations (see p176), is its open space – the shady green swathe that is Plaza San Martín, which is surrounded by several impressive buildings, including the Palacio Paz and the Palacio San Martín. South America’s tallest building when inaugurated in 1935, the lofty Kavanagh building is another significant landmark. At the foot of the plaza is an obsidian marble cenotaph dedicated to those who died in the 1982 Malvinas (Falklands) war. Just over the road stands a clock tower that was a gift to Argentina from local AngloArgentinians for the 1910 centennial celebrations. Initially known as the Torre de los Ingleses, it was

Constitución alone at night is not recommended. Boedo, an attractive neighbourhood filled with bohemian cafés, bars and theatres, is home to San Lorenzo football club, and one of the cradles of tango. Subte C, Constitución or E, Boedo, Independencia/bus 20, 56, 59, 84, 100, 126, 160. Map A2, A3, B2, B3, C3, D1. ! Take five Pan y Arte (see p42) is a lovely spot for wine and artwork. NORTH OF THE CENTRE

When wealthy porteños fled a yellow fever epidemic in 1871, they gravitated en masse to Barrio Norte. Mansions and palaces soon spread to Recoleta and Palermo, today the most stylish and European of all BA’s districts.

Constitución, Barracas & Boedo Run-down Constitución is best known for its railway station, built in the 1880s to help wealthy weekenders get to the coast. These days the grand station serves working-class commuters from the southern suburbs, with a forecourt that is a byword for chaos. Neighbouring Barracas was once a hotbed for working-class protest movements but now it shows tentative signs of gentrification. Its biggest attraction is artist Marino Santa María’s mosaicbased ‘urban intervention’ (imagine a cooler, postmodern version of La Boca’s Caminito) on calle Lanín (www. marinosantamaria.com). Exploring both Barracas and

Palermo Immense Palermo contains a number of subdivisions, some semi-official and others surely dreamt up by real estate agents. Most people accept three areas: Palermo Chico (bordering Recoleta) for embassies and the filthy rich; leafy Palermo Viejo (comprising Palermo Hollywood and Palermo Soho) for global cuisine and funky boutiques; and Palermo for the rest, including the expanses of greenery. Palermo’s Plaza Italia is a transport hub for buses and one of the noisiest and busiest junctions in the city. Off to one side lies the zoo, the Jardín Zoológico (Avenida Santa Fe, y Avenida Las Heras, 4011 9900, www. zoobuenosaires.com.ar). Also bordering Plaza Italia is the beginning of the

Around Town

incoming ships for excess tins of paint to brighten up their homes. These days, the area is thronged with tango dancers, models posing as tango dancers, artisans, tourists and a healthy complement of grafters. We can’t stress it enough: stick to the obviously tourist area around Caminito and avoid the neighbourhood after dark, since La Boca has a bad reputation for robberies of tourists who stray off the beaten track. Don’t miss the Fundación Proa (see p126), a magnificent art gallery that plays host to some of the city’s most important international exhibitions. The cultural centre and performance space Usina del Arte (see p143) is also helping to give tourists reasons beyond Caminito to visit the southern barrio. Bus 20, 25, 29, 46. Map A1, A4. ! Take five Get stuck into a juicy steak at El Obrero (see p40).

Recoleta & Barrio Norte It’s Buenos Aires’s most exclusive patch of real estate – but nobody lives there. We refer, of course, to the Cementerio de la Recoleta, one of the world’s great necropolises. A walk down its fine avenues and alleys is one of BA’s undisputed delights; and though many presidents are entombed here, the resting place of María Eva Duarte de Perón, aka Evita, is probably the graveyard’s biggest draw. Although by no means the most impressive tomb, this one’s always surrounded by people and fresh flowers. Next to the cemetery’s entrance is the whitewashed Basílica Nuestra Señora del Pilar, founded in 1716 by Jesuit missionaries, with superb art and performance venue Centro Cultural Recoleta (see p124) just next door. Plaza Francia, directly north-east of the cultural centre, is taken over every weekend by an excellent handicrafts fair, while facing it across the wide Avenida Figueroa Alcorta, the neoclassical Facultad de Derecho (law faculty) cuts an imposing figure. Don’t miss the huge, shining Floralis Genérica sculpture immediately to its left. Originally designed to open and close daily with the sun, mechanical problems with one of the petals immobilised the flower in 2010, with no resolution yet as to who will foot the US$125,000 bill to fix it. Subte D, Agüero, Pueyrredón/bus 39, 64, 93, 110, 152. Map E4, E5, F4. ! Take five Grab a fresh, invigorating juice at Be Juice (see p28).

FOTO RUTA

The city’s giant metal flower, Floralis Genérica, is commonly known as El Flor

renamed the Torre Monumental after the 1982 territorial war with Britain. Subte C, San Martín, Retiro/bus 6, 20, 93, 152. Map D5, D6. ! Take five Head to Grand Café (see p23) for cheesecake and a coffee. SOUTH OF THE CENTRE

When people talk about ‘bohemian’ Buenos Aires, more often than not they are referring to the southern barrios of the city – Monserrat, San Telmo and La Boca in particular. Monserrat This historic barrio attracts less tourism than San Telmo, but its heritage and architecture are in a class of their own. The Iglesia de San Ignacio, on the corner of Alsina and Bolívar, dates from 1734 and is the oldest church in the city. It’s part of the Manzana de las Luces, a set of historic buildings that occupies an entire city block and which has at various times been a Jesuit school and residence, a university library and the representative chamber from which BA province was governed until 1880. You can tour the chamber, the patios and a series of 18th-century tunnels that used to link the building to the riverbank behind what is now Plaza de Mayo, several hundred metres away. Subte A, Piedras or C, Moreno or E, Bolívar/bus 2, 23, 91, 98. Map C4. ! Take five Treat yourself to a Patagonian ice-cream at Abuela Goye (Hipólito Yrigoyen 428, 4342 8121). San Telmo Tourists are entranced by the cobblestone streets and crumbling mansions of this classic working-class barrio, which has been gradually

gentrified over recent years, while retaining much of its native charm. Heading to San Telmo from Plaza de Mayo, Defensa and Balcarce are the most pleasant and scenic streets to walk along. The former is lined with antiques shops, while the latter is a quieter, cobblestone street. To see the inside of a house from 1880, visit the lovely Pasaje de la Defensa (Defensa 1179), a refurbished two-storey mansion that is now bristling with antiques shops and souvenir stands. Plaza Dorrego is one of the few plazas in the city where you can eat and drink al fresco, and on Sundays is the epicentre of the neighbourhood’s famous street market, which sells antiques and crafts and sprawls along calle Defensa as far as Plaza de Mayo. It’s one of BA’s most popular, albeit crowded days out. As always when out and about in the city, keep a sharp eye on your belongings. Subte C, Independencia/bus 10, 17, 24, 29, 39, 64, 152. Map B4. ! Take five Stop off for a game of pool and a craft beer at Breoghan Brew Bar (Bolívar 860, 4300 9439). La Boca In space and spirit, La Boca is as far south as BA goes, divided from the vast suburbs of Greater Buenos Aires by the dark, toxic gloop of the Riachuelo river. The barrio’s main attraction, Caminito, is a short, pedestrianised street – a garish tourist trap to some; but an interesting glimpse, nevertheless, of the city’s historic port neighbourhood. The corrugated zinc shacks stacked on each side of the wide path (caminito) owe their vivid colours to impoverished locals, who, back in the day, begged

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Networking in BA

barrio’s large expanse of greenery, in the form of the slightly shabby but pleasingly tranquil botanical gardens. Inaugurated in 1898, the Jardín Botánico Carlos Thays (Avenida Santa Fe 3951, 4831 4527) is full of fountains, statues, orchids, cacti, ferns and spectacular trees – and an army of feral cats. Parque Tres de Febrero is the city’s largest green lung and a great place for a breather. Within its limits is the delightfully pretty Rosedal (rose garden). It’s the highlight of Palermo’s Parque Tres de Febrero, and within it lies the Jardín de los Poetas, its peaceful fountains surrounded by busts of literary giants, a tiled Patio Andaluz and a shaded pergola by the lake. At night the area, also known as the Bosques de Palermo (Palermo woods), can be dangerous and is a well-known pick-up spot for transvestite prostitutes. Inside the park and flanked by avenidas Casares and Berro, the Jardín Japonés (Japanese garden) was created in 1967 as a gift from the city’s Japanese community. Parque Tres de Febrero is also home to the golf-ball-shaped Planetario (Avenida Belisario Roldán y Sarmiento, 4771 6692, www.planetario.gov.ar, closed Mon). It’s telescopes can be used by the public on Saturday and Sunday, and there are science-themed functions daily. Subte D, Bulnes, Scalabrini Ortiz, Plaza Italia/bus 39, 59, 60, 152. Map F3, F4, F5, G4, G5. ! Take five Scoff sushi in serene surroundings at the restaurant in the Jardín Japones.

Around Town

What do you do when you’ve got a todo list as long as your arm, but no one to enjoy it with? To meet some of BA’s many English-speaking expats, or the Argentinians who hang out with them, head to Magdalena’s Party (see p78), NOLA Gastro-pub (see p78) or Gibraltar (see p74). Communal tables at closed-door restaurants Casa Saltshaker (see p60) and Jueves a la Mesa (see p61), and café Le Pain Quotidien (see p27) also provide natural settings to make new friends. Lonely photography enthusiasts should sign up for Foto Ruta’s (see p124) Clue event, and those whose social skills are buoyed by alcohol will enjoy the free flowing wine and conversation at The Argentine Experience (Fitz Roy 2110, mobile 15 3896 7552, www.theargentineexperience. com). For pub-based socialising, join the raucous crowds at the BA Pub Crawl (see p124) and the Out and About Gay Pub Crawl (see p135), or swap trivia at The Buenos Aires Pub Quiz (www.buenosairespubquiz.com). Learning Spanish is another sociable activity. International Training (Vuelta de Obligado 1808, 5th floor, 4788 1788, ih-buenosaires.com) offers free classes, while language schools LV Studio (see p173) or VOS (see p173), host a range of social events.

Palermo Viejo Comprising Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood (Soho is south-east of Avenida Juan B Justo and Hollywood is north-west), Palermo Viejo was run down and romantic until the early 1990s. It has since been radically gentrified by an influx of hip restaurants, trendy nightclubs and bars, and by copious numbers of fashion and design outlets. Plazoleta Cortázar (more commonly known as Plaza Serrano) remains popular, and those who find the area’s new bars too pricey or pretentious can often be found here, under the lime trees with a bottle of Quilmes beer. Such has been the impact of new money on Palermo Soho that in the past few years the lifestyle boom has spilled across Avenida Juan B Justo into the area known as ‘Palermo Hollywood’ for the number of TV production companies located there. Even more expensive restaurants and a bewildering number of bars are to be found in this zone. Subte D, Palermo, Plaza Italia/bus 10, 29, 39, 64, 67, 93, 152. Map F3. ! Take five Enjoy perfectly cooked burgers and fries at kitsch and delicious Burger Joint (see p46). Las Cañitas A buzzing residential and dining district, Las Cañitas is fringed by the polo ground and racecourse (see p132) and is a focal point for the monied socialites of Palermo and Belgrano. By night, the bars on calle Báez fill up quickly, particularly on weekends. However, Las Cañitas has little in the way of historical or cultural interest apart from the Centro Cultural Islámico Rey Fahd mega-mosque at avenidas Bullrich and del Libertador. Bus 42, 59, 67, 68, 152. Map H4. ! Take five Cute café Colette has a range of light lunches (Jorge Newberry 1967, 4774 2418). Belgrano Like Palermo, Belgrano is a large, affluent barrio divided unofficially into several sub-districts. These include Belgrano R, an upscale residential zone characterised by half-timbered houses and cobbled streets; Barrancas de Belgrano, an attractive park on a slope; and BA’s Barrio Chino (Chinatown), located on and around calle Arribeños between Juramento and Blanco Encalada. Belgrano’s main artery is migraine-inducing Avenida Cabildo, dominated by mid-market clothing retailers, particularly shoe shops. Bus 42, 55, 60, 64, 130. ! Take five Sit back and relax with a tasty sandwich or salad at sweet spot Nolita (see p28). WEST OF THE CENTRE

The city’s western districts are real-world BA – where ordinary porteños live and work. Abasto is being spruced up and given back some of its tango heritage, while traditional residential barrios like Villa Crespo and Almagro are well worth exploring for their neighbourhood bars and restaurants off busy avenidas Corrientes and Rivadavia. Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15 121

Around Town

Once & Abasto Once (pronounced ‘ON-say’), west of downtown along Avenida Corrientes, is a hectic commercial district home to many of BA’s Jewish population as well as Korean, Middle Eastern and Peruvian communities. Just along from Once, at Avenida Corrientes and Anchorena, is the beautiful Mercado de Abasto building, a soaring art deco masterpiece that was built in the 1930s as a wholesale market and later converted into the Abasto de Buenos Aires shopping centre (see p122). Subte B, Carlos Gardel, Pasteur, Pueyrredón/bus 24, 68, 88, 92, 104, 132, 168, 188, 194. Map D3, E3. ! Take five Head to bohemian bar Le Troquet de Henry (Guardia Vieja 3460). Almagro, Caballito & Villa Crespo West of Abasto, these attractive middle-class barrios are often what people mean when they talk about the ‘real’ BA. Parque Centenario, in Caballito, is the main public park for these neighbourhoods and is busy at weekends. The park contains the Museo Argentino de Ciencias Naturales Bernardino Rivadavia (see p124). Almagro and Villa Crespo are traditional neighbourhoods increasingly attracting fashionable bars and shops. Life in both revolves around the busy Avenida Corrientes. Subte A, Castro Barros or B, Ángel Gallardo, Malabia, Medrano/bus 55, 92, 124, 168. Map E1, F1, F2, G1. ! Take five Vegetarians rejoice at all-you-can-eat buffet Los Sabios (Avenida Corrientes 3733, 4864 4407). Chacarita Like many one-time outlying barrios, Chacarita developed around a railway station, Federico Lacroze. The terminus, opened in 1880, is now little more than a run-down shed for suburban trains. Equally gloomy but far more interesting is the Cementerio de la Chacarita on the other side of Avenida Guzmán. Much bigger than Recoleta’s necropolis, with numbered streets and car access to its thousands of vaults, it’s largely for ordinary folk, although tango’s Carlos Gardel is buried here. Subte B, Federico Lacroze/bus 42, 44, 47, 63, 111, 112, 127. Map H1, H2. ! Take five Indulge in one of Le Blé’s heavenly pastries (Avenida Dorrego 999, 4854 2616).

Free apps BA cómo llegar Plot journeys across the city on public transport, bike, car or on foot. Agenda Cultural Find out about cultural events and festivals happening in Buenos Aires. Porteño Spanish Brush up on your porteño slang with this list of common lunfardo. Buenos Aires Delivery Get delivery to your door with a few simple clicks on this app.

ALONG THE RIVER

Beside the brown, silty river, there are plenty of eating, strolling and nature-watching opportunities. Puerto Madero & Costanera Sur Puerto Madero, the swish, renovated dockland area east of Plaza de Mayo, is divided into two lengthy promenades: Puerto Madero Oeste (west) and Este (east). On the western side, the Buque Museo Fragata Presidente Sarmiento is a 19th-century frigate built in Birkenhead and used as a navy training ship. It’s now a wonderful museum. To its south is the eyecatching Puente de la Mujer (Woman’s Bridge), a pedestrian swing bridge with a spar-and-cable arc shape. Further south still lies the Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur (closed Mon), BA’s wilderness on the watery edge of the city. The long esplanade skirting the reserve is one of the city’s most pleasant spaces for walking, jogging, cycling and picnicking; and within the reserve, four lakes, willows and shrubs provide natural habitats for more than 200 bird species. Subte B, LN Alem/bus 26, 61, 93, 152, 159, 195. Map B5, B6. ! Take five Try a bondiola from one of the Costanera’s food trucks. Costanera Norte & Núñez A traditional promenade thronged with anglers and day trippers, contrasts with the domestic airport. South of the latter is the Club de Pescadores, a private fishing club, while north is religious theme park Tierra Santa (Avenida Costanera Rafael Obligado 5790, 0800 444 3467, www.tierrasantabsas.com.ar), the highlight of which is the hourly resurrection of a giant plastic Jesus. On the final curve of the Costanera Norte is the Parque de la Memoria. Developed in remembrance of victims of the 1976-83 military dictatorship, the tasteful memorial park’s centrepiece is a monument consisting of stone tablets bearing the names of the ‘disappeared’, many of whom were drugged and thrown from planes to their deaths in the river beside the park. Further west, the residential neighbourhood of Núñez borders BA province, and is home to River Plate football club and its stadium, Estadio Monumental (see p132), as well as the riverside green space Parque de los Niños (Avenida Cantilo y General Paz). Nearby, is the former ‘ESMA’, the country’s most notorious torture centre during the military dictatorship, where 5,000 men and women were clandestinely held for charges of ‘subversion’. Most were never seen again. The campus was renamed the Espacio para la Memoria y para la Promoción y Defensa de los Derechos Humanos (Avenida del Libertador 8151, 4702 9920, www. espaciomemoria.ar) and transformed into a museum. Tours in English or Spanish can be arranged on request. Bus 28, 33, 45, 130, 152. Map H6. ! Take five Baccano has fresh pastas (Avenida Congreso 1620, 4787 0841).

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Museums Whether you want to step back in time with a dose of history, soak up some artistic vibes, glimpse into the lives of the city’s legends or keep the little ones entertained, there’s something to suit all agendas in BA. Some museums have excellent lunch spots, particularly the restaurant at the Museo Evita and Croque Madame at the Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo. Museums devoted to art are listed in the Art section (see p122).

Bolívar 65, entre Avenida de Mayo e Hipólito Yrigoyen (4334 1782/www. cabildonacional.com.ar). Subte A, Plaza de Mayo or D, Catedral or E, Bolívar/ bus 28, 56, 105. Open 10.30am-5pm Wed-Fri; 11.30am-6pm Sat, Sun & public holidays. Admission by donation. No credit cards. Map C5.

El Zanjón de Granados Part archaeological museum, part event space, El Zanjón encapsulates three centuries of urban living. The façade dates from 1830, but traces from an earlier patrician home – an open-air cistern, a lookout tower and a 1740 HOW TO USE THE LISTINGS wall comprised of seashell mortaring " denotes a museum that is – take you back to the era of suitable or primarily Spanish settlement. The intended for children. treasure trove of objects # denotes a museum uncovered here during we particularly excavations includes Check the day recommend. Most museums are shut French tiles and African pipes. Tours of the Casa on Mondays, and have RETIRO discounted or free entry Mínima across the street are by reservation only Museo de Arte on Wednesdays. on Fridays at 4pm. Hispanoamericano Defensa 755, entre Chile y Isaac Fernández Blanco Avenida Independencia (4361 This baroque-style building houses 3002/www.elzanjon.com.ar). Bus 28, Spanish-American paintings, religious 29, 159, 195. Open noon-3pm objects and an important collection of colonial silverware. The museum’s ‘Ayres Mon-Fri (tours on the hour); 1-6pm Sun (tours every 30mins). Admission de Arte’ walking tour on Wednesdays AR$120 tour in English Mon-Fri; and Fridays at 3.30pm takes you down calle Arroyo to check out the surrounding AR$90 tour in Spanish Mon-Fri; AR$75 tour in English Sun; AR$55 buildings’ architecture. tour in Spanish Sun; AR$40 pensioners Suipacha 1422, entre Arroyo y Sun. Map B4. Avenida del Libertador (4327 0228). Bus 17, 152. Open 2-7pm Tue-Fri; LA BOCA noon-7pm Sat; 11am-7pm Sun. Closed Museo de la Pasión Boquense May. Admission AR$5.00. Free Wed, To feel the pasión, visit La Bombonera Thu. Map D6. stadium on a match day. For everything else Boca-related, this MONSERRAT AND SAN TELMO museum scores high. There are Museo del Bicentenario audio-visual gadgets, loads of facts Tucked behind the Casa Rosada, this and figures and, of course, tributes to museum, opened in 2011 to mark 201 years of independence, delivers a heavy La Boca’s most enduring and legendary hero, Diego Maradona. hit of pro-government propaganda. Brandsen 805, y la Vía (4362 1100/ The restored space is in the city’s www.museoboquense.com). Bus 10, 24, former fort, and artefacts, artworks, 70, 74, 86, 93. Open 10am-6pm daily. campaign posters and videos are used Closed on match days. Admission to explore the nation’s political history. AR$75; museum & stadium tour Highlights include the mural Ejército AR$90 (11am-6pm on the hour). Plástico (Plastic Army) by Mexican Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map A1. artist David Siqueiros and the bloodied headscarf of Madres de Plaza de Mayo RECOLETA AND BARRIO NORTE leader Hebe de Bonafini following Museo Nacional de blows received at a protest rally. Arte Decorativo Paseo Colón 100, e Hipólito Yrigoyen Built in 1911, this grand mansion has a (4344 3802/www.museo.gov.ar). Subte façade incorporating French, A, Plaza de Mayo or D, Catedral or E, Corinthian and Tuscan elements. Its Bolívar/bus 29, 129. Open Apr-Nov stunning ballrooms, sumptuous 10am-8pm Wed-Sun; Dec-Mar bedrooms and hallways display more 11am-7pmWed-Sun. Admission free. than 4,000 pieces of decorative art. Map C5. Tours in English are at 2.30pm from Tuesday to Friday. Museo Histórico Nacional Avenida del Libertador 1902, y Pereyra del Cabildo Lucena (4801 8248/www.mnad.org). The first steps towards Argentina’s Bus 10, 59, 60, 67, 110, 118, 128, independence were taken here, the 130. Open 2-7pm Tue-Sun. city’s HQ from 1580 to 1821. The Admission AR$20; tour AR$15. Free austere museum contains items such Tue. Map F5. as a magnificent gold and silver piece from Oruro, Bolivia and items relating "Museo Participativo to the English invasions. Behind the de Ciencias building is a shaded colonial patio and ‘Prohibido no tocar’ (‘it’s forbidden not café; it is also the site of a handicrafts to touch’) is the motto of this science fair on Thursdays and Fridays from museum, where kids can explore the natural sciences. Themed rooms 11am to 6pm.

TOP TIP!

Around Town Time Out Insidersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15 123

Around Town

include ‘no me mates matemática’ (don’t kill me, maths) and ‘la mesa está servida’ (dinner is served). 1st floor, Centro Cultural Recoleta, Junín 1930, y Quintana, (4807 3260/ www.mpc.org.ar). Bus 10, 17, 59. Open 3.30-7.30pm Tue-Sun. Admission AR$50; free under-4s. Free pensioners Wed. No credit cards. Map E5. !Museo Xul Solar This museum-cum-gallery contains a collection of esoteric objects, instruments and quirky art by the city’s most eccentric, self-proclaimed visionary: the sailor-turned-painter, astrologer, mathematician, writer and philologist Oscar Agustín Alejandro Schulz Solari (1887-1963), known as Xul Solar. Acclaimed by his friend Borges as ‘one of the most singular occurrences of his time’, Solar invented his own language (Pan) and lived in his own personal time. Laprida 1212, y Mansilla (4824 3302/ www.xulsolar.org.ar). Subte D, Agüero/ bus 12, 39, 68, 106, 111, 152, 188, 194. Open noon-7pm Tue-Fri; noon-6pm Sat. Admission AR$20. Map E4. PALERMO

!Museo de Arte Popular José Hernández This museum’s well-curated collection comprises elements from Argentina’s rural past, including maté gourds, spurs, knives and other assorted gaucho paraphernalia. Avenida del Libertador 2373, y San Martín de Tours (4803 2384/ museohernandez.buenosaires.gob.ar). Bus 10, 37, 59. Open 1-7pm Wed-Fri; 10am-8pm Sat, Sun & public holidays. Admission AR$5; free under-12s. Free Sun. Map F5. Museo Evita Housed in an aristocratic residence that Perón expropriated to convert into a women’s shelter for his wife’s quasi-statal welfare agency, this museum is worth a visit if only to see

the range of myths Evita inspires in Argentina. There are paintings, posters and busts, as well as outfits and her libreta cívica (ID card), number 0.000.001. Guided tours are available for groups of five or more people if reserved in advance. Arguably better than the museum are the restaurant and terrace (see p50). Lafinur 2988, y Gutiérrez (4807 9433/ www.museoevita.org). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 37, 59. 141, 152, 160, 188. Open 11am-7pm Tue-Sun. Admission AR$40; with guided tour AR$70. Map G4. ONCE AND ABASTO

Museo Casa Carlos Gardel A tribute to one of the 20th century’s greatest exponents of popular song, the Gardel museum – once Carlos Gardel’s Abasto home – preserves and exhibits various items that either belonged to, or were connected with, the tango legend who tragically died young in a plane crash in Colombia while on tour. Among the museum’s activities are free tango classes and singing lessons (call to check times). The museum also screens films that the tango king acted – and sang – in. Jean Jaurès 735, y San Luis (4964 2015/www.museocasacarlosgardel. buenosaires.gob.ar). Subte B, Carlos Gardel/bus 24, 26, 29, 99, 124, 168. Open 11am-6pm Mon, Wed-Fri; 10am-7pm Sat, Sun. Admission AR$5. Free Wed. Map E3. CABALLITO

"Museo Argentino de Ciencias Naturales Bernardino Rivadavia This natural history museum, set in Caballito’s lovely Parque Centenario, is thrilling for children who are dotty for dinosaurs. The museum’s star skeleton belongs to a carnotaurus – the ‘bad guy’ in Disney’s Dinosaur. Avenida Ángel Gallardo 470, y Marechal (4982 6595/www.macn.gov. ar). Subte B, Ángel Gallardo/bus 15, 55, 124, 135, 141, 146. Open 2-7pm daily. Admission AR$15; free under-6s. Map F1.

Tour selector

Cultural centres

BA’s centros culturales form the backbone of the city’s cultural life, running theatre, film, music, dance and photography events. LOCAL CULTURE

With an eclectic programme including indie cinema and experimental theatre, the Centro Cultural Borges (Galerías Pacífico, Viamonte 525, y San Martín, 5555 5450, www.ccborges.org. ar) has hosted many of the must-see shows of recent years. Admission is free at the Centro Cultural Recoleta (Junín 1930, 4803 1040, www. centroculturalrecoleta.org), which hosts exhibitions and live music. The Centro Cultural Ricardo Rojas (Avenida Corrientes 2038, 4952 7281, www.rojas.uba.ar) stages experimental theatre. At the Centro Cultural San Martín (Sarmiento 1551, 4374 1251, www.ccgsm.gov.ar), there’s independent theatre, dance and workshops in video, cinema, music and visual arts. Gigs and workshops are held at Almagro’s Club Cultural Matienzo (Pringles 1249, 6610 1520, ccmatienzo.com.ar). INTERNATIONAL

The French language institution Alianza Francesa (Avenida Córdoba 936, 4322 0068, www.alianzafrancesa. org.ar) is also a prestigious cultural centre screening international cinema. For plays, films and TV shows in English, visit the British Arts Centre in Retiro (Suipacha 1333, 4393 2004, www.britishartscentre.org.ar). The Centro Cultural de España (Florida 943, 4312 3214, www.cceba.org. ar) focuses on Spanish and Argentinian digital art, while at the Goethe Institute (Avenida Corrientes 319, 4318 5600, www.goethe.de/buenosaires), a sometimes edgy programme of events is complemented by German videos, plus a language institute.

5 Stars of Argentina www.5-stars-of-argentina.com A luxurious day sampling the best of Argentina’s wine, meat, tango, polo and gaucho culture. US$240. Anuva Wines www.anuvawines.com Wine tastings led by friendly sommeliers in Palermo. Excellent wines served. US$52. BA Free Tour www.bafreetour.com Proving the best things in life can be free, BA Free Tour offers guided walks of the centre, Recoleta and Retiro. Tips appreciated. Biking Buenos Aires www.bikingbuenosaires.com Fun, informative guides show you the city on two wheels. From US$90. Buenos Aires Local Tours www.buenosaireslocaltours.com Travel by bus and Subte as an Englishspeaking guide tells you all about the city. By donation. The Buenos Aires Pub Crawl www.buenosairespubcrawl.com A night of debauchery in BA’s hottest bars and clubs. US$25. Circuito Papal circuitopapal@buenosaires.gob.ar A free tour dedicated to all things Pope Francis, either by bus or on foot. Cultours www.cultour.com.ar View the impact of Argentina’s past on its present with the free Traces walking tour. Other tours from AR$150. Eternautas www.eternautas.com Knowledgeable historians lead exceptional expeditions across the city. Specialist tours focus on politics, art and the Jewish population in BA. From US$160 for a group of four çpeople. Foto Ruta www.foto-ruta.com Learn the art of street photography while exploring different neighbourhoods. US$32. Parrilla Tour BA www.parrillatour.com Discover authentic steakhouses on this culinary tour of the city. US$69. Pick Up The Fork Food Tours feedme@pickupthefork.com Get an insiders’ look into the local food scene. From US$90. Tangol www.tangol.com Tours around the city including trips to football matches and tango shows. From AR$150. Shop Hop BA www.shop-buenosaires.com Friendly British expat Sophie Lloyd runs customised shopping trips for all styles and budgets. From US$40.

Parilla Tour BA

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For tours and day trips outside the city, see Getting Away (p167).

Art Young blood

Sorcha O’Higgins profiles three young Argentinian artists to watch this year

n the 23 years since its inception, ArteBA has become Latin America’s leading contemporary art fair. The annual event, held in Buenos Aires every May, is far more than just a showcase for established local and international artists, galleries and curators. Since 2005, it has also been home to Barrio Joven, a platform that provides young and emerging artists with ‘a communicational laboratory’, a place that allows the complex dynamics of the art world to coexist, and establishes a dialogue between visitors, collectors, critics and the artists themselves. The selection process for Barrio Joven is rigorous and aims to bring together artists who will go on to occupy the coveted positions of figureheads in the main section of ArteBA. After showing at Barrio Joven in 2014, visual artists Francisco Medail and Delfina Estrada, and sculptor Nicolás Vasen are marching full steam ahead towards ArteBA’s more prestigious pedestals. FRANCISCO MEDAIL Exhibiting at Barrio Joven with Studio 488, Francisco Medail, at 23 years old, has already had quite a prolific career. While studying at the Escuela Nacional de Fotografía, he quickly realised that his trajectory was not one of a working photographer, but was instead to use the medium of photography as a vehicle for art. Breaking away from traditional photographic processes, Medail scours archives to curate pieces that explore the relationships within photography and the effect of technology on the quality of the images we are exposed to daily. Medail works exclusively with found images, demonstrated in his previous works such as ‘Extimidad’, which compiled 1500 soft-core porn photos taken on webcams to illustrate the typologies that result from the interaction of the subject

and the medium. ‘Implosión’, shown at Barrio Joven, investigates the potential power of the building block of photography: the pixel, by showing large-scale but low-resolution images of exploding buildings. According to Medail, most Argentinian photography is limited by traditional boundaries, meaning there are lots of opportunities for development in the field locally. He currently curates Madriguera magazine and, recently, the new youth section of photography fair Buenos Aires Photo. Both fuel his love of collaboration, which he feels invigorates him in terms of connecting with peers who challenge his perception of art. His next body of work will focus on collating information on the history of Argentinian photography and an exploration of how violence is presented in the media. DELFINA ESTRADA A fine arts graduate from the Instituto Universitario Nacional del Arte, Delfina Estrada creates beautiful and haunting etchings, prints and illustrations that are very much rooted in her childhood spent amongst the landscape of Tigre and the Delta. After participating in a workshop at IUNA, she started working with printmaking and engraving in 2009. This traditional method of production is a long

‘Implosión’ by Francisco Medail

process, imbuing each line with thought and meaning, where the imperfections of the final result are inherent to its beauty. ‘At the end, when I take the print from the press, I always find surprises. Most of the time, they’re welcome,’says Estrada. As part of Ruby Gallery, Estrada participated in Barrio Joven in 2014 for the third consecutive year. She feels that ArteBA enables her work to be seen by people who wouldn’t usually see it. In terms of young artists working in Buenos Aires, she says the strongest developments are happening where artists manage their own spaces, such as at Galería Patio del Liceo (see p100). With fellow artist Victoria Volpini, Estrada runs Fábrica de Estampas, a workshop where, alongside working on her own projects, she gives classes in printmaking and drawing. This year she has illustrated a book of poetry and is working on watercolour illustrations for another book about the city of Buenos Aires. NICOLÁS VASEN In his sculptures, Nicolás Vasen tackles the theme of materiality as an expression of the artist’s purpose. Vasen takes industrial materials like concrete, plywood, steel and plastic, and manipulates them to ‘trace the social context within which the work exists.’ I give them a new use that reflects my

‘Océano’ by Delfina Estrada

personal experience in the world’, says Vasen. The sculptor studied photography, followed by graphic design at the Universidad de Palermo, while simultaneously attending the Artist’s Programme at the Universidad Torcuato DiTella. His design training equipped him with a conceptual understanding of morphology and synthesis which is present in his work today, while the Artist’s Programme enriched his creative landscape and set him on his current path as a sculptor. Winner of the Barrio Joven Chandon Prize in 2013, Vasen was able to relax at ArteBA in 2014. Both years he exhibited with Peña Galería. He feels that the experience of ArteBA is divided between that of the artist and the visitor – the former fighting to have their work seen and the latter expecting to visit an exhibition, something that can create a tension. The role of young artists as part of the art movement in Argentina, too, is not clear-cut, he says. ‘Art must be global’, but obstacles between Buenos Aires and the rest of Argentina, and between Argentina and the rest of the world have a potentially stifling effect on the development of Argentinian contemporary art. Vasen will be exhibiting as part of a collective show at the Fondo Nacional de las Artes in November and is working towards a solo show in 2016.

‘Untitled’ by Nicolás Vasen

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Art

The scene

Buenos Aires has always had an irrepressible artistic spirit. Even during the dark years of dictatorship the city was a thriving hub of clandestine creative activity, with artists disobeying censorship and organising mass political-art protests. Today, this anti-establishment attitude is reflected in the innovative contemporary work produced in some of the city’s many alternative, artist-run spaces. A profusion of artists working from private homes or abandoned warehouses seek to blur the lines between galleries and the street. One of BA’s hottest underground spaces is the BSM Art Building in Once (Boulogne Sur Mer 345, 4865 9300), a former oxygen bottle factory transformed into a grungy, multistorey space. Traditionalists can admire the forefathers of Argentinian art at the Museo de Bellas Artes (see right) or the Museo Quinquela Martín (Avenida Don Pedro de Mendoza 1835, 4301 1080). Those in search of the big names should head to the MALBA (see right), which features diverse temporary exhibitions as well as a permanent collection of Latin American art by the likes of Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo.

Major institutions Colección de Arte Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat The private treasure trove of the late Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat, once Argentina’s wealthiest woman, is housed in a stunning glass and steel airplane hangar-type edifice on Puerto Madero’s supremely modern and upscale waterfront. The collection of both Argentinian and international works includes the psychologically complex paintings of Carlos Alonso and the highly versatile work of the painter of the people, Antonio Berni. Don’t miss the Dalí, Turner or Brueghel pieces, or Warhol’s silkscreen of Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat herself. Guided tours are also available daily from 3pm-5pm. Olga Cossettini 141, Puerto Madero (4310 6600/www.coleccionfortabat.org. ar). Subte B, LN Alem/bus 74, 126, 129, 140, 180. Open noon-8pm Tue-Sun. Admission AR$50; AR$20 Wed. Map B5.

Aimé Paine 1169, y Azucena Villaflor, Puerto Madero (4010 9233/www.faena. com). Bus 2, 64, 111, 129. Open noon-7pm Mon-Sat. Admission AR$40. Free Mon. Map B5. !Fundación Proa This institution provides you with a reason to go to La Boca that doesn’t involve paying to have your photo taken with a sleazy tango hustler. The phenomenal Proa is flourishing in its stunning waterfront building, just off the tourist hub of Caminito, and features industrial exhibition spaces, the city’s best art library and bookstore, and a third-floor gourmet café. With a gravitational pull strong enough to reel in international names (works by artists like Marcel Duchamp) as well as an aesthetic strongly linked to the social, Proa packs a full schedule, complete with related film cycles, lectures and theatrical productions. Avenida Pedro de Mendoza 1929, entre Magallanes y Rocha, La Boca (4104 1000/www.proa.org). Bus 8, 20, 25, 29, 33, 46, 53, 64, 86, 152. Open 11am-7pm Tue-Sun. Admission AR$20. Map A1. MACBA The slick, glass-fronted Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Buenos Aires (MACBA) opened in late 2012, with an exhibition of abstract geometrical art plucked straight from the private collection of the museum’s Argentinian benefactor, Aldo Rubino. Situated next door to MAMbA (see right) and now hosting live music and children’s events, the four-storey space is an exciting new player in San Telmo’s burgeoning art district. Avenida San Juan 328, entre Defensa y Balcarce, San Telmo (5299 2010/www. macba.com.ar). Bus 4, 8, 10, 17, 29, 93. Open noon-7pm Mon, Wed-Fri; 11.30am-7.30pm Sat, Sun. Admission AR$25; AR$15 Wed. Map A4.

Faena Arts Centre The Faena Hotel Buenos Aires (see p154) added another landmark to its Puerto Madero empire in 2011, spending big bucks to glam up this contemporary art space inside a restored flour mill. It has all the luxury of the hotel, complete with majestic marble stairs and high ceilings that lend themselves to large-scale installations. Big names are brought in from abroad, such as British artist Anthony McCall, who in 2013 displayed his works ‘constructed by light’ referencing Jorge Luis Borges’s The Aleph. 126 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15

!MALBA With ambitious exhibitions and a manageable size, all signs point to the futuristic MALBA as the best museum in the city: Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera, Guillermo Kuitca, Grete Stern and friends fill the walls. Look out for Pablo Reinoso’s inspired use of gallery space with the Intervención series of installations, in which the benches taper off to become larger-than-life spaghetti looping across the walls. Like the permanent collection, regularly updated temporary exhibitions feature the best of contemporary and cutting-edge Latin American art. There’s also an excellent café, well-stocked gift shop and cinema specialising in arthouse retrospectives. Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 3415, entre Salguero y San Martín de Tours, Palermo (4808 6500/www.malba.org. ar). Bus 37, 67. Open noon-8pm Mon, Thu-Sun; noon-9pm Wed. Admission AR$45; AR$23 Wed. Map F5. MAMbA A key player on the BA art circuit, MAMbA – the Museo de Arte Moderno de Buenos Aires – has some 7,000 works in its collection. The pieces span movements in Argentinian art from the 1920s to the present day, with notable works by Xul Solar, Marta Minujín and Antonio Berni. Avenida San Juan 350, entre Defensa y Balcarce, San Telmo (4342 3001/www. museodeartemoderno.buenosaires.gov. ar). Bus 10, 29, 33, 64, 74, 126, 130. Open 11am-7pm Tue-Fri; 11am-8pm Sat, Sun. Admission AR$15. Free Tue. Map A4. Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes Offering an impressive view of the traditional side of art, the MNBA has 24 rooms, sculpture patios, an architecture display, studios, a library and an auditorium. The country’s biggest collection of 19th- and 20th-century Argentinian art is

housed here, with pieces by masters such as Eduardo Sívori, Antonio Berni and Guillermo Kuitca on display; and the international collection includes works by masters like El Greco, Rubens, Rembrandt and Goya. Free tours in English are available as well. Avenida del Libertador 1473, y Pueyrredón, Recoleta (5288 9914/ www.mnba.gob.ar). Bus 92, 93, 95, 102, 108, 110, 118, 124, 130. Open 12.30-8.30pm Tue-Fri; 9.30am-8.30pm Sat, Sun. Admission free. Map E5. Palais de Glace French speakers won’t have to guess the original function of this elegant belle époque building; Palais de Glace, which opened its doors to skaters in 1910, means ‘Ice Palace’. Today, the palace is suitably grand for its diverse roster of large-scale paintings, photography, engravings, sculptures and video installations. Posadas 1725, y Schiaffino, Recoleta (4804 1163/www.palaisdeglace.gob.ar). Bus 17, 60, 67, 92, 110. Open noon-8pm Tue-Fri; 10am-8pm Sat, Sun. Admission free. Map E5.

Galleries Centre

CONTEMPORARY

Ignacio Liprandi Arte Contemporáneo Argentinian collector Ignacio Liprandi has his finger firmly on the pulse of cutting-edge local and Latin American conceptual art, plucking stars from the likes of London’s Tate Modern and New York’s MoMA to show in his third-floor gallery with head-on views of the grandiose Congreso building. Rotating exhibitions have a multimedia bent, showcasing some of the most talked-about – and controversial – artists on the circuit. Level 3, left, Avenida de Mayo 1480, entre Uruguay y Paraná, Congreso (4381 0679/www.ignacioliprandi.com). Subte A, Sáenz Peña/bus 8, 39, 60, 64, 67, 86, 102, 129. Open noon-7.30pm Mon-Fri; by appt Sat. Map C4. Zavaleta Lab The creative laboratory of local art impresario Hernán Zavaleta effectively bridges the gap between the neighborhood’s contemporary hotspots and their downright dusty older counterparts. Zavaleta’s eye for innovation ensures a consistent turnout of solid exhibitions by both up-andcomers and local art darlings. Paintings, which tend to favour clean lines and solid colours, gleam from the walls of the broad white gallery space. Office 12, 2nd floor, Defensa 269, entre Alsina y Moreno, Monserrat (4589 5314/www.zavaletalab.com). Subte A, Plaza de Mayo/bus 10, 17, 86, 195. Open 11am-7pm Mon-Fri; by appt Sat. Map B4. CLASSIC

‘La reina de la noche’ (Miguel D’Arienzo at Galería Isabel Anchorena)

!Ruth Benzacar BA’s first stop for collectors is porteño art doña Orly Benzacar’s downtown

basement space, which is among the most highly regarded galleries in town. Benzacar has well and truly conquered Buenos Aires with her healthy catalogue of fresh-faced art aces and an afternoon spent trawling around the calle Florida space is a sure-fire way to take in some of the top work being produced in the city. Florida 1000, y Marcelo T de Alvear, Retiro (4313 8480/www.ruthbenzacar. com). Subte C, San Martín/bus 10, 17, 152. Open 11.30am-8pm Mon-Fri. Map D5.

San Telmo and La Boca CONTEMPORARY

POPA A hedonistic spirit pervades this house just off the Caminito tourist strip, where director Marcelo Bosco likes his art out, loud and proud. Mixed media works run the gamut with the sublime to the shocking, from sculptures exploring S&M to photography bordering on porn. Exhibition openings here are schmoozy, upmarket affairs. Lamadrid 882, entre Garibaldi y Carlos F Melo, La Boca (4302 7244/www. galeriapopa.com.ar). Bus 64. Open 2-10pm Thu-Sat; or by appt. Map A1. Other location 2nd floor, El Salvador 5090, Palermo.

Recoleta and Barrio Norte CONTEMPORARY

!Daniel Abate Infamous for keeping even the most exclusive collectors on their toes, this surprisingly compact gallery, situated in a house along a lovely back lane in Recoleta, is a prime destination on show opening nights. Keep your eyes peeled for hot young artist types, porteño socialites, journalists and the dashing, dickie-bowed Daniel Abate himself. Abate has, among his many other feats, taught BA that contemporary art can be red-carpet

Mite One of a handful of galleries located inside the trendy Galería Patio del Liceo (see p100), Mite features a rotating cast of a dozen contemporary artists, who create fresh work such as paint and Sharpie-doctored newsprint and photographic stills inspired by old black-and-white films. After you’ve had your inspiration fix, seize the chance to drop by art bookstore Purr Libros on the ground floor. Unit 30, 1st floor, Avenida Santa Fe 2729, entre Laprida y Anchorena, Barrio Norte (4822 9433/www. mitegaleria.com.ar). Subte D, Agüero/ bus 12, 39, 64. Open 2-8pm Tue-Fri; by appt Sat. Map E4. Pasto Galería Orginally set inside the hip Galería Patio del Liceo (see p100), this gallery’s young crew presents a roster of emerging artists working mostly in small-format (and accessibly priced) painting, drawing, installation and photography. Friendly director César Abelenda will gladly help guide you through the underground arts scene. The new space is a collaboration between Pasto and Luciana Massarino’s Studio 448. Pereyra Lucena 2589, y Pagano, Recoleta (4804 3060/www.pastogaleria. com.ar). Bus 37, 59, 60, 95, 110. Open 3-8pm Tue-Sat. Map F5.

Art

NEW Galería Union Tired of always roaming the streets of Buenos Aires (although that is what they do best), the people at Grafittimundo have found themselves a little place to call home. The street art experts have established a gallery in a classic San Telmo town house, outfitted with white-washed walls, ornate mouldings and a beautiful antique painted-glass ceiling. Admire the temporary exhibitions, which include works by street art big dogs like Cabaio Spirito, or choose from a range of affordable prints to take home to adorn your own walls. Carlos Calvo 736, y Chacabuco, San Telmo (mobile 15 3683 3219/www. galeriaunion.com). Subte C, Independencia/bus 29, 45, 59, 67, 70. Open noon-5pm Mon, Wed, Fri, call in advance. Map B4.

glam, so dress to impress or else stay home (we speak from experience). Pasaje Bollini 2170, entre French y Peña, Recoleta (4804 8247/www. abategaleria.com). Bus 10, 37. Open 11am-5pm Mon-Fri, call in advance. Map F4.

!Praxis With a sister gallery in New York, Praxis has serious international reach and today is one of the driving forces in promoting contemporary Argentinian art abroad. Major collectors come to the four-storey gallery to view the latest works by emerging and established artists, and to trawl through the extensive stock, which features abstract designs with high conceptual backing by artists like Pablo Lozano and Garc í a Mar. Arenales 1311, entre Uruguay y Talcahuano, Recoleta (4813 8639/www. praxis-art.com). Bus 10, 108, 111, 152. Open 10.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri; 10.30am-2pm Sat. Map D5. CLASSIC

Galería Isabel Anchorena For the more traditional side of BA’s art output, head over to Isabel Anchorena, a superbly curated Recoleta gallery that displays the two- and three-dimensional works of over 30 solid, schooled artists. Having made strong showings at past events like the São Paulo Art Biennial and ArteBA fairs, the gallery has recently been focusing on exhibiting here at its home base. Libertad 1389, entre Juncal y Arroyo, Recoleta (4811 3959/www. galeriaisabelanchorena.com). Bus 92. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Fri; 11am-3pm Sat. Map D5. Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15 127

Galería Rubbers As you might imagine from the gallery that hosted Andy Warhol’s first Latin American exhibition in 1966, only the most upmarket names in art make it into Rubbers, which is more of an art maestro’s hall of fame than your average gallery. The venue displays a diverse range of works by household names like Antonio Seguí and Xul Solar, the quirky artist-inventor whose work gave the gallery clout during its infancy in the late 1950s. For an insight into Solar’s fascinating world, check out the Museo Xul Solar (see p124). Avenida Alvear 1595, y Montevideo, Recoleta (4816 1864/www.rubbers.com. ar). Bus 17, 67, 110, 124, 130, 152. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Fri; 11am1.30pm Sat. Map D5.

Palermo

Art

CONTEMPORARY

Elsi del Río This spirited contemporary space is smack bang in the nucleus of Palermo’s trendy art scene. The cast of characters under director Fernando Entin is influenced by everything from graffiti to Japanese art. Exhibitions change every six weeks, with live music and hipsters a regular feature of inauguration parties. Humboldt 1510, entre Cabrera y Gorriti (4899 0171/www.elsidelrio.com. ar). Bus 93, 108, 111. Open 2-8pm Tue-Fri; 11am-3pm Sat. Map H2. Gachi Prieto Boundary-busting director Gachi Prieto continues to keep the art scene guessing with her roll call of 24 (mostly local) artists. With nine exhibitions a year self-consciously setting a course for contemporary Latin American art, expect to find everything from monochrome video projections, to artisanal collections of objects and photo manipulations.

Uriarte 1976, entre Soler y Nicaragua (4774 6961/www.gachiprietogallery. com). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 34, 39, 55, 111, 166. Open 1-8pm Mon-Fri; noon-6pm Sat. Map G3. Galería Foster Catena This hip first-floor space sits on a much-transited Palermo block and is committed to promoting emerging contemporary artists, as well as established snappers such as Dino Bruzzone and Marcelo Grosman. Try to get to an opening here: the mix of edgy images, a see-and-be-seen crowd and access to high-end wine means you won’t regret it. 1st floor, Honduras 4882, entre Armenia y Gurruchaga (4833 9499/ www.fostercatena.com). Bus 39, 55, 110, 140, 141, 151, 168. Open 1-7.30pm Tue-Sat. Map G2. Holbox One of the few lens-centric spaces in the city, this gallery, presided over by photographer Julia Ramos, has more than a dozen talented snappers on its books. If you’re after something to stash in your suitcase, it also sells framed works in small formats. Address provided at time of booking (4833 2481/www.holboxphotogallery. com). Bus 39, 110, 111, 114. Open by appt. Map G2. Hollywood in Cambodia Graffiti: you’ve seen the work plastered all over the city and may even recognise some of the styles. Now you can put names to images at this gallery, run by a ‘collective of collectives’ comprising some of the big names in Buenos Aires graffiti, like Pum Pum and Run Don’t Walk. Entering the gallery requires passing through the equally festooned Post Street bar downstairs, so grab a bottle and a couple of glasses and head up to the heavily tagged terrace. For more fun, learn the tricks of the trade in a stencil

workshop with local artists or sign up for a tour with street art experts Graffitimundo (see right). 1st floor, Thames 1885, entre Costa Rica y Nicaragua (www. hollywoodincambodia.com.ar). Bus 29, 34, 39, 55, 60, 93, 108, 140, 151. Open 5-9pm Tue-Sun. Map G3.

canvasses stretching down the corridor tend to feature the application of colour in bright, bold patches and jagged streaks. Thames 1776, entre Costa Rica y El Salvador (4832 1968/www. galeriathames.com.ar). Bus 34. Open 2-8pm Tue-Fri; 3-7pm Sat. Map G3. CLASSIC

Mar Dulce Expect to see simple, colourful paintings, drawings, collages, giclée prints, embroidery and photographs by multi-talented artists, like illustrator and pop singer Isol. Additional exhibitions at this gallery such as ‘+Collective’ showed work from established artists like Daniel Santoro as well as emerging talents. More like a stylish friend’s apartment than your typical art gallery, the atmosphere is warm and intimate. Uriarte 1490, entre Gorriti y Cabrera (mobile 15 5319 3597/www. galeriamardulce.blogspot.com). Bus 39, 55, 93, 108, 168. Open 3-8pm Tue-Sat. Map G2.

Daniel Maman Fine Arts New work rubs shoulders with pieces by renowned Argentinian stars including Antonio Berni and Guillermo Roux in this gallery, conveniently situated among the major art museums of Palermo Chico. Get dolled up and drop by this glitzy show space on an exhibition’s opening night, when all the big names in the art world come out to see fresh talent. Avenida del Libertador 2475, entre Bulnes y Ruggieri (4804 3700/www. danielmaman.com). Bus 10, 37, 41, 59, 60, 67, 92, 93, 95, 102, 110. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Fri; 11am-3pm Sat. Map F5.

Nora Fisch Leave reality at the door and enter a world that resembles a David Lynch set. New York-educated owner Nora Fisch prefers to deck out her space with mixed media pieces that lie at the extreme end of the conceptual scale. Every torn bit of paper, carefully mounted piece of cardboard or arrangement of lines is meant to say something, and it does so elegantly. Fisch also delights in explaining her works. Avenida Córdoba 5222, entre Uriarte y Godoy Cruz (mobile 15 6235 2030/ www.norafisch.com). Bus 19, 34, 39, 55, 90, 108, 127, 140, 151. Open 1-7pm Tue-Fri; or by appt. Map G2.

Villa Crespo CONTEMPORARY

!Arte x Arte With 1200 sq m at its disposal, Arte x Arte lays claim to being BA’s largest art gallery. Its exhibitions, of which there are half a dozen a year, are dedicated solely to photography, video and new media, and attract big names from both home and abroad, creating a space for continual exchange between Argentina and the rest of the world. Lavalleja 1062, entre Lerma y Argañarás (4772 6754/www. galeriaartexarte.com). Bus 15, 19, 36, 57, 90, 92, 110. Open 1.30-8pmTueFri; 1.30-4pm Sat. Map F2.

Thames This luminous space has more than 30, mostly local and mostly female, artists on its books. The large

Art tours FOTO RUTA

Artists’ Atelier Tours

These tours around artists’ studios are a great way to get under the skin of BA’s art scene and see process as well as product. The fee is US$100, and there’s a 2-for-1 offer for Time Out readers. The owner also rents out an artisticallyrestored Palermo house. www.arttour.com.ar

Art Connoisseurs

This group of art lovers conducts intimate group tours and private viewings of galleries and artists’ studios. Lunch is included in the price. From AR$240. www.artconnoisseursba.com

Graffitimundo

Artists’ Atelier Tours

128 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15

At Graffitimundo, hands-down experts in all things street art, friendly bilingual guides steer you around the colourfully sprayed streets of BA on a three-hour tour, which costs from US$25 per person. On Sundays there are graffiti tours on two wheels with Biking Buenos Aires (www. bikingbuenosaires.com) for US$45. www.graffitimundo.com

K&S FILMS

Film & Media

Relatos Salvajes starring Ricardo Darín was 2014’s box office hit

The basics

You’re never far from a cinema, bookshop or cultural activity in Buenos Aires, making the city a delight for any cinephile or bookworm. Festivals like local film fest BAFICI (see p12) and literary events Feria Internacional del Libro (www.el-libro.org.ar) and FILBA (filba.org.ar) attract culture buffs from Argentina and abroad, but there are plenty of film screenings, lectures and readings to be found in Buenos Aires all year round. In addition to Spanish-language media, there’s also a growing number of English-language publications for BA’s sizeable expat community. From books, blogs and newspapers to radio shows and podcasts, English-speakers have found no shortage of inspiration to be culled from the Argentinian capital. Extend your trip just a little longer and who knows, maybe you’ll be inspired to start your own blog.

Cinemas

New releases, from blockbusters to arthouse flicks, are shown widely. The MALBA (see p126) hosts excellent cinema events, new indie releases, retrospectives and lectures. The Alianza Francesa, British Arts Centre, Centro Cultural de la

Cooperación, Centro Cultural Matienzo and Centro Cultural Ricardo Rojas (see p124) all regularly screen films cheaply or free of charge, while Teatro Nacional Cervantes (see p142) shows classic Argentinian films for free on Wednesdays and Thursdays at 5pm. INFO, TIMINGS AND TICKETS Children’s films are usually dubbed, but original versions are shown as well at selected times and venues. Some cinemas offer late-night shows (trasnoches), and cheaper tickets can be had from Mondays to Wednesdays and at daytime showings. Make sure you arrive early as there might be queues.

Lorca An excellent option for contemporary indie flicks, Lorca also pays homage to the great films of the golden era: Bergman and Fellini retrospectives are permanent fixtures. Avenida Corrientes 1428, y Uruguay (4371 5017). Subte B, Uruguay/bus 24, 26, 102, 111. Open 1.30-11pm daily. Tickets Mon-Wed AR$40; Thu-Sun AR$50. No credit cards. Map D4. SAN TELMO

Buenos Aires Mon Amour This bijou 38-seater shows independent films and is run as a non-profit venture by a pair of local film-lovers who also run cine courses. CONGRESO & TRIBUNALES Reserve online, location given Espacio INCAA KM 0 – on booking (mobile 15 Gaumont Rivadavia 4413 6283/www. This cinema is supported cineclubmon by the local film institute, amour.com). Bus 10, Cinema times and screens independent For schedules and film 17, 29, 152. Open from Argentinian releases. It information check Cines 7pm Fri-Sun. Tickets also has heavily Argentinos (www. Mon-Wed AR$40; subsidised prices, cinesargentinos. Thu-Sun AR$50. No making it one of the com.ar). credit cards. Map B4. cheapest cinemas around. Other location Avenida Avenida Rivadavia 1635, y Roque Sáenz Peña 1150. Montevideo (4382 0003/www.espacios. incaa.gov.ar). Subte A, Congreso/bus 8, PUERTO MADERO 37, 60, 64, 90, 151, 168. Open Cinemark 12.30pm-12.30am daily. Tickets AR$8. This modern complex in an upmarket barrio shows the latest Hollywood and No credit cards. Map D4.

TOP TIP!

Latin American releases. As it’s slightly out of town, it’s usually fairly empty. Alicia Moreau de Justo 1920, y Avenida San Juan (0800 222 2463/www. cinemark.com.ar). Bus 4, 62, 64. Open from noon daily. Tickets AR$40-$60. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B5. Other locations Beruti 3399, Palermo; Avenida La Plata 96, Caballito. RECOLETA

Atlas Patio Bullrich The city’s most exclusive shopping centre shows local films and US hits. Avenida del Libertador 750, entre Montevideo y Libertad (www.atlascines. com.ar). Bus 60, 61, 62, 67. Open from noon daily. Tickets AR$65. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E6. Village Recoleta This cinema in Recoleta Mall (see p100) shows the latest blockbuster flicks. Vicente López 2050, entre Uriburu y Junín (0810 810 2463/www.village cines.com). Bus 10, 108. Open from 11am daily. Tickets AR$55-$85. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5. Other location Avenida Rivadavia 5071, Caballito. ABASTO

Hoyts Abasto Buenos Aires This massive 12-theatre shopping centre cinema screens new releases and is packed at the weekends.

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15 129

LUCIA GALLI

Teatro Vorterix (see p140). Online radio station Ciclop (www. ciclopradio.com.ar) plays music in the day and shows that provide insights into porteño culture in the evening.

While cable TV is popular and offers Hollywood films, sports and subtitled US sitcoms, if your language skills are up to it, there are some Spanish-language shows worth tuning in to on public television. Cable channel Canal á is a useful way into the local arts scene, and sensationalist news channel Crónica TV has to be seen to be (dis)believed.

Film & Media

The web

Learn to find the perfect angle at one of Buenos Aires’s photography courses

Photography courses Aspiring photographers, or even just those who’d like to up the quality of their Instagrams, will find many opportunities to refine their trade in photogenic Buenos Aires. When it comes to local photography courses, the go-to for foreigners and expats is Foto Ruta (mobile 15 6030 8881, www.foto-ruta.com), which provides instructive photography tours of the city, including the innovative iPhoneography tour. For a more intensive class, sign up for the Foto Ruta Academia, or opt for a customised workshop. Artist haven-cum-shopping centre Galería Patio del Liceo (see p100) often offers workshops on all mediums of art, including photography, with courses on photo editing, creative photography and more. Check the Facebook page www.facebook.com/ TalleresPatioDelLiceo for upcoming workshop dates. Local photographers Lula Bauer (lulabauer@gmail.com), Lucia Galli (luciagalli.com) and Iara Kremer (iarakremer@gmail.com) teach at the Patio and other locations in the city, offering classes on portraiture, night-time shooting and creative photography. Lucia and Iara also run a monthly editing and analysis seminar, where photographers can convene for mutual feedback on their work.

Abasto shopping centre, Avenida Corrientes 3247, y Anchorena (5238 2700/www.hoyts.com.ar). Subte B, Carlos Gardel/bus 24, 26, 124. Open from 10am daily. Tickets AR$74; 3D AR$83. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E3. ALMAGRO

Cine Club Eco Find Bergman retrospectives and more obscure international films here. Entry includes a post-screening discussion. 2nd floor, Avenida Corrientes 4940, entre Lavalleja y Julián Álvarez (4854 4126). Subte B, Malabia/bus 24, 36, 55. Open 8pm Sat; 7pm Sun (reservations essential). Tickets AR$50 suggested donation. No credit cards. Map F1.

Film studies

Buenos Aires is crammed with film and media courses that turn out hundreds of graduates annually for the city’s thriving film and advertising industry

– plus a few very knowledgeable bartenders. The Escuela Nacional de Experimentación y Realización Cinematográfica (Moreno 1199, 4383 2622, www.enerc. gov.ar) in Monserrat is run by INCAA, the national film board, and its programme is among the most selective, with students required to pass a difficult course in order to enter. The prestigious three-year image and sound design course at the Universidad de Buenos Aires (Ciudad Universitaria, 4789 6200, www.fadu.uba.ar) is famed for its emphasis on putting theory into practice. One of the better and more expensive private institutes in BA is San Telmo’s Universidad del Cine (Pasaje Giuffra 330, 4300 1413, www. ucine.edu.ar), which also organises all manners of screenings, seminars and workshops. Short courses on various film themes are held by Buenos Aires Mon Amor (see p129).

130 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15

The city’s official tourism site www. bue.gob.ar/en was recently translated into English, and includes useful information like maps and guides to what’s on around town. The government’s Festivales de Buenos Aires (www.festivales.gob.ar) is another good way to stay in the loop about the city’s non-stop festivities. Wander Argentina (www. wander-argentina.com) provides detailed coverage of the city’s barrios and attractions and Argentine Soccer (www.argentinesoccer.com) keeps score on the national obsession. What’s Up Buenos Aires (www. whatsupbuenosaires.com) offers English- and Spanish-language features, news and interviews, while Spanish-language magazine Wipe (www.wipe.com.ar) has daily events listings. Glamout (www.glamout.com) has resources on shops, events and nights out, and Vuenoz Aires (www. vuenosairez.com) is a solid resource for the latest cultural events. Literary buffs will enjoy bilingual magazine The Buenos Aires Review (www. buenosairesreview.org), while foodies will love the popular Pick Up the Fork (www.pickupthefork.com). In Spanish, Planeta Joy (www. planetajoy.com) has its finger on the pulse of the gastronomic scene.

Radio Read on Tune in to local radio for informative talk shows or check out the indie sounds on Urbana (89.5 FM), Rock & Pop (95.9 FM) and community station Radio La Tribu (88.7 FM). Listen to contemporary rock nacional on Mega (98.3 FM), and tango on state-sponsored La 2x4 (92.7 FM) or hip new Malena (89.1 FM), which plays modern interpretations of the classics. La Mañana con Víctor Hugo (Radio Continental, 590 AM) is hosted daily (9am-1pm) by ex-footballcommentator Víctor Hugo Morales, and serves current affairs and football chat with a pro-government spin. BA Cast (www.bacast.com) is a weekly podcast in ‘Spanglish’ aimed squarely at the expat community. Vorterix Rock (103.1 FM) was launched in 2013 by TV and Radio personality Mario Pergolini and streams music from many of the bands that play at

English publications The Argentina Independent This website includes articles on cultural, economic, political, social and environmental issues. www.argentinaindependent.com The Bubble Argentinian news and culture with a critical bite are the bread and butter of this English-language website. bubblear.com Buenos Aires Herald This long-running newspaper is sold at kiosks throughout the city. www.buenosairesherald.com My Beautiful Air Visitors and expats will find cultural info on this BA lifestyle blog. www.mybeautifulair.com

LUCY VALERIO

Fitness & Sports

La Dolfina and Alegría battle it out in the 2013 final

Kings for a day

Gretchen Gardner gets the scoop on Argentina’s poshest sporting event

he Campeonato Argentino Abierto de Polo is polo’s pinnacle. It’s the most important event of the season and the most anticipated club tournament in the world. But polo is so much more than just a sport, darling. A day at the Campo Argentino de Polo (see p132) involves the chance to dress in one’s finest, hobnob with celebrities and drink more champagne than you can poke a jolly polo stick at. Inside the grand gates of the polo ground, the lawns are perfectly mowed and the spectators look as if they just galloped over from a Ralph Lauren photo shoot or a summer wedding in the pampas. Don’t let the fancy straw hats get the better of you, just dress appropriately, smile and nod politely if anyone mentions tactics, and you’ll fit right in. Every year, eight polo teams compete for the Argentinian Triple Crown: the Tortugas Country Club Open in September and October, the Hurlingham Open in October and November, and the climax of the polo season, the Argentinian Open. Sponsored by the Asociación Argentina de Polo (www.aapolo. com), the Argentinian Open has been running every November and December since 1893 – apart from in 1914 and 1945 when it was cancelled due to World Wars I and II. The names of the teams sound like something elite Argentinians might call their summer houses. La Dolfina, Ellerstina, La Aguada,

Alegría, La Aguada Las Monjitas and Magual are all set to compete in 2014, while six additional teams – La Natividad, La Vanguardia, Indios Chapaleufú II, La Quinta, Miramar and Santa Teresa – will fight it out for the two remaining spots. The players are the usual suspects year after year, but they do not disappoint. Generally considered the best in the world, 10-goal handicap Adolfo Cambiaso will be at the helm of his team La Dolfina, who will be hoping to take the Triple Crown for the second year in a row. Cambiaso is like the Michael Jordan of polo, and at the ripe age of 39, he’s still showing no signs of slowing down. Skimming the roster, you’ll also notice that many teams prefer to keep it in the family. Brothers Facundo, Gonzalo and Nicolás Pieres make up three quarters of Ellerstina’s starting lineup, while Miguel and Ignacio Novillo Estrada form half of La Aguada’s. So you’ve got your champers, have found a seat and admired the stunning contrast of the luscious pitch and Buenos Aires’s skyline. What should you expect from the game itself? The opening and final matches begin with brilliant displays of pomp and ceremony. A marching band kick things off with a rendition of the Argentinian national anthem and parachutists land on the pitch brandishing the country’s flag, although in 2013 one went off course and ended up in the stands. While the match is all racing up

and down the pitch, sweaty horses and whacks of the mallet, polo is quite possibly the only sport in which the after-party is more important than the actual game (sorry Cambiaso). Once the final sevenminute chukker is over, spectators flood onto the field to cheer as the trophies are dolled out to the pop of yet more champagne corks. Then the party really gets going in the bar and dimly lit Chandon-sponsored tents. The music pumps out, the straw hats are looking rather skew and anyone who’s anyone switched to gin and tonic in a plastic cup – and yes, you will see a few discerning looks in your direction if you switch to beer. Day flows into night, and before you know it, it’s 9pm, you’re sunburnt, well past tipsy and ready for either bed or to schmooze your way in to the after-after-party. A few words to the wise: you’ll notice during the game that in the stands most of the serious spectators are silent until after a big play. Even then, the applause amounts to civilised, rhythmic clapping. It was after all, the British that brought the sport of kings to Argentina, and it simply doesn’t do to show too much emotion. Not till after the game, anyway. The Campeonato Argentino Abierto de Polo 2014 runs from November 15 to December 6. Tickets are available from Ticketek (www. ticketek.com.ar) or the Campo Argentino de Polo.

The essentials

While the 2014 World Cup dream may be over, most Argentinians are fiercely proud of having made it to the final. Aside from captain-demigod Lionel Messi, who finally proved wrong those who had doubted his ability to pull through for the national team, the popularity of several lesser-known stars such as goalkeeper Sergio Romero and defender Javier Mascherano shot up during the tournament. Striker Ezequiel ‘Pocho’ Lavezzi’s good looks also caused a frenzy, while the demise of long-term rivals Uruguay and Brazil added to the sweet taste of near-victory. Although football may be number one, Argentina has produced a fair share of champions in other disciplines. ‘La Maradona del hockey’ Luciana Aymar continues to be recognised as the best field hockey player in the world, and La Dolfina’s captain, Adolfo Cambiaso, remains Argentina’s polo superstar. A recurring wrist injury, however, has come back to haunt tennis luminary Juan Martín del Potro this season and national rugby team, Los Pumas, have unfortunately not been able to break their losing streak.

Spectator sports BOXING

Boxing’s glory days peaked in the mid 1980s, but the sport still draws crowds to Luna Park (see p138), BA’s answer to Madison Square Garden, where the red carpet is rolled out every month or so for the ritual of the Saturday night fight. Smaller matches are sometimes held at the Federación Argentina de Box (Castro Barros 75, 4981 8615, www.fabox.com.ar) in Almagro. FOOTBALL

Today, more than half of the 20 first division teams are located in and around BA. The league is split into two seasons: inicial (opening) from August to December and final (closing) from February to July. Football in Argentina tends to be spirited, highly competitive and a source of national pride. The best-known team is Club Atlético Boca Juniors, which plays at the Estadio Alberto J Armando in La Boca, more commonly known as ‘La Bombonera’ – the chocolate box. The so-called superclásico fixtures between Boca Juniors and arch-rivals Club Atlético River Plate are thought by some to be the greatest ‘derbies’ in the world. Other well-known teams include Club Atlético Independiente, Racing Club and the Pope’s team of choice, San Lorenzo de Almagro. For Boca Juniors matches, be prepared to pay much higher prices for tickets than for other teams. Tickets are not sold at the Bombonera stadium, and those sold by touts in the surrounding streets and parks are usually fakes – you’ve been warned! Your only viable option for getting to a Boca game,

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Fitness & Sports

unless you happen to be friends with a member, is to book through agencies like Tangol (4363 6000, www.tangol. com). Tour prices start from AR$690 for a ticket in the popular area (where bags of wee, among other things, have been known to fly), and include transport to and from the game. For tickets in the platea (more comfortable, better positioned seats) and for the big matches against Boca’s main rivals, the asking price can start from as high as AR$2500. Vamos a la Cancha (www. vamosalacancha.com.ar) also takes small groups by minibus to Boca and River matches, sitting in either the popular or platea areas (tickets AR$850-$1200). For any team other than Boca Juniors, tickets are best bought from the club stores. The atmosphere can be just as electric at matches at the other big clubs or between the smaller teams around the city. Prices for the rowdy popular area are set at AR$90, but most clubs tack on an extra AR$50-$90 in an attempt to make some money. The cost of the platea seats depends on the popularity of the club, and ranges from AR$170 to AR$800. Don’t take valuables to any football match, and keep your wits about you for occasional instances of violence, which are mostly restricted to the popular areas. Estadio Alberto J Armando (La Bombonera) Watching a game here is a unique experience: come kick-off, a cacophony of fireworks and abuse greets players and refs, and even if you’re not a fully fledged footie fan, it’s hard not to be moved by the spectacle. The platea baja in the stands area is your recommended vantage point. Popular tickets will put you in with the hardcore fans: in this case, not a particularly safe place to be. Neither is the area around the stadium, so leave valuables at home and avoid walking around the area unnecessarily. Brandsen 805, y la Vía, La Boca (4309 4700/www.bocajuniors.com.ar). Bus 10, 29, 53, 64. Map B1.

(Avenida Márquez 504, 4743 4011, www.hipodromosanisidro.com.ar) hosts races on Wednesdays and at weekends, with entry at AR$6. Turf’s most important venue, Hipódromo Argentino de Palermo (Avenida del Libertador 4101, 4778 2800, www. palermo.com.ar) in Palermo hosts year-round meets on Mondays and alternating Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. Entrance is free. Betting is on the tote system, and no alcohol can be purchased at the track.

US$175 includes transfer to and from the estancia, a steady supply of wine and home-made empanadas, an asado and a polo match and lesson. Even if you’ve never been on a horse before, let alone knocked a ball around while doing so, it’s a good introduction to the sport of kings. RUGBY

Unfortunately, 2014 was another disastrous year for Argentina’s national team, nicknamed ‘Los Pumas’, who were unable to come back from POLO 2013’s disappointing run. However Polo is played in the spring in new coach Daniel Hourcade BA, with the season has helped the team starting in September qualify for the 2015 and running through to For the low-down on the World Cup. November and On the local scene, the local football league, December when the Argentinian rugby download Englishvenerable Argentinian language podcast Hand season runs from March Open is played at the of Pod (www.handofpod. to November and is Campo Argentino de usually dominated by worpdress.com). Polo de Palermo Hindú Club (Ruta 202 y (Avenida del Libertador 4300, Avenida Del Golf, 4741 6150, 4777 6444, www.aapolo.com). Try www.hinduclub.com.ar) and San Ticketek for tickets. For the rest of the Isidro Club (SIC) (Blanco Encalada year, the grounds remain relatively 404, 4766 2030, www.sanisidroclub. quiet, though chukkas are played com.ar), although 2013 saw an upset elsewhere in other seasons, with the with victory for Club Universitario exception of winter. If you want to try de Buenos Aires (CUBA) (Avenida your hand at polo in a peaceful setting Perón y Pasaje Juan Cruz Migliore, away from the city, you can’t go wrong 4660 0655, www.cuba.org.ar) – their with Argentina Polo Fields (www. first in over 40 years. argentinapolofields.com), which offers polo excursions at a tranquil estancia TENNIS outside the capital. All levels are The majority of tennis courts in catered to, with theoretical and Argentina are clay, which explains why practical lessons and day trips Argentinian players generally favour available. Transfers to and from the that type of surface. If you happen to estancia are included in the US$160 be in town when there’s a professional price of the polo day, as is a hearty tournament on, it’s well worth asado lunch. If getting on a horse isn’t checking out the unique atmosphere of on your agenda, you can still book a an Argentinian match. Crowds bring night at the beautiful estancia, or football-style chanting and passion watch a professional polo game. For polo beginners and enthusiasts, trek 45 which, though they may annoy international umpires to no end, make minutes out of the city to Pilar to for a fun spectacle. The biggest Argentina Polo Day (www. tournament held in Argentina is the argentinapoloday.com.ar). The price of

TOP TIP!

Abierto de Tenis de Buenos Aires or Copa Claro (www.copaclaro.com), which takes place at the Buenos Aires Lawn Tennis Club (Olleros 1510) in Palermo. Home Davis Cup ties are generally held at Parque Roca (Avenida Roca 3490, Villa Soldati), and tickets sell out quickly. Check www.ticketbis.com.ar for availability.

Participation sports

Parque Norte (Avenida Cantilo y Guiraldes, 4787 1382, www. parquenorte.com) and Palermo’s Club de Amigos (Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 3885, 4801 1213, www.clubdeamigos. org.ar) are recommended multi-sport venues (centros deportivos) which have swimming pools, tennis courts and football pitches. BOWLING

With 18 lanes and plenty of pool tables, Belgrano’s Paloko Bowling (Avenida Cabildo 454, 4775 8279, www. palokobowling.com.ar) is full most nights. Get there early to avoid the long wait. Bar and after-office hotspot Tazz (Avenida Rafael Obligado y Salguero, 4807 8299) has six computerised bowling lanes, as well as pool tables, dart boards and foosball tables. CYCLING

Buenos Aires’s flat, gridded streets are ideal for exploring on two wheels, and with the introduction of extensive cycle paths and bike sharing scheme Mejor en Bici (www.ecobici.buenosaires.gob. ar), the city has become more bike-friendly. Still, great care should be taken and defensive cycling practised. Check the website La Vida en Bici (www.lavidaenbici.com/mapa) for a map of bike paths. Hugely popular Critical Mass (www.masacriticabsas. com.ar) rides take place on the first

Estadio Monumental Home to Club Atlético River Plate, the Monumental is the largest stadium in the country and, thanks to its location in the upper-class barrio of Núñez, probably one of the safest. It’s also the only all-seater stadium in BA that comes close to meeting FIFA standards. River Plate play at home every other weekend during the football season, and major concerts are held here all year round. Guided tours of the museum are available from 10am to 5pm daily, at a cost of AR$80. Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 7597, y Udaondo, Núñez (4789 1156/www. cariverplate.com.ar). Bus 12, 29, 130. HORSE-RACING

The year’s most important races fall in November and December, but you can catch smaller meets all year round. The only grass track in Argentina, Zona Norte’s Hipódromo de San Isidro 132 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15

Kayakers from Puro Remo (see right) take in the Puente de la Mujer

ADRIEN DE BONTIN

Sunday of each month, with two wheelers congregating at 4pm at the Obelisco (see p118). There’s also a Critical Mass ride on the night of the full moon, leaving from the Obelisco at 9pm. La Bicicleta Naranja (Pasaje Giuffra 308, San Telmo, 4362 1104; also at Nicaragua 4825, Palermo, www. labicicletanaranja.com.ar) hires bikes for AR$30 per hour. Bicycles can also be rented for free from EcoBici (ecobici.buenosaires.gob.ar), if you provide your original ID plus a photocopy. Biking Buenos Aires (mobile 15 4300 5373, www. bikingbuenosaires.com) offers half- and full-day city tours (US$45-$90) and has teamed up with Graffitimundo (see p128) for weekend graffiti tours (AR$200) around Palermo and Villa Crespo. Urban Biking (Esmeralda 1084, 4568 4321, www.urbanbiking. com) offers full-day bike and kayak tours from La Lucila to Tigre ranging anywhere from US$55 to US$110.

GYMS & SPAS

Most larger hotels let non-guests use their facilities for a fee. Slick, clean and busy, the Megatlón (www.megatlon. com) chain has all the latest exercise devices, offers classes and has branches throughout the city. Rates are from AR$210 per day or AR$1050 per month. One of the city’s most exclusive clubs, Le Parc Gym & Spa (San Martín 645, 4311 9191, www. leparc.com) has exercise machines, a pool, squash courts and beauty treatments. which cost AR$180 per day or AR$900 per month. PILATES AND YOGA

FOOTBALL

GOLF

Though BA has no stand-out golf tournament to speak of, recreational golfers can have a swing at the Campo de Golf de la Ciudad de Buenos Aires (Avenida Tornquist 6300, 4772 7261, www.campogolfpalermo.com), which sports an 18-hole course. After 2pm the green fee costs AR$80 during the week and AR$100 on the weekend; before 2pm it’s AR$70. A game will set you back an extra AR$70 and renting clubs costs from AR$250. There’s also plenty to aim for at the modern driving range, Driving Norte (Avenida Cantilo y La Pampa, 4788 5666, www. driving-norte.com.ar), from a green on an island to the huge net protecting the religious theme park, Tierra Santa, next door (see p122). HORSE-RIDING

Most estancias (ranches) in Buenos Aires province offer day and weekend packages, which include as much riding as your backside can stand plus, more often than not, post-ride asados and country-chic accommodation. A stand-out option is Estancia Los Dos Hermanos (www.estancialosdoshermanos. com). For a more structured approach within the city limits, Palermo’s Club Alemán de Equitación (Avenida Dorrego 4045, y Lugones, 4772 6289) provides riding and showjumping classes. Located 30 minutes south of the city in a gorgeous forest reserve, Caballos a la Par (Apartment 2E, Lima 529, 5248 3592, www.caballosalapar.com) offers half-day excursions with one-on-one lessons for novices and

Outdoor fitness summer-style at Parque Centenario

experts. Whatever your level though, the class is sure to make you break a sweat. If it’s polo you’re into – beginner or not – then Argentina Polo Day has excellent polo outings (see p132). ICE-SKATING

Besides freestyle skating, Winter (Yerbal 1617, 4631 7883, www. winterweb.com.ar) in Caballito holds ice hockey and artistic skating classes, with rink rates starting at AR$80 per hour or AR$90 for the day. RACQUET SPORTS

Tucked under the autopista (motorway) 25 de Mayo, Pasco Tenis (Cochabamba 2258, 4941 0333, www. pascotenis.com.ar, from AR$190 per hour) is a well-equipped complex with quality clay tennis courts suitable for all weather. WATER SPORTS

Most aquatic and nautical activities on the Río de la Plata take place in Zona Norte, 45 minutes from downtown, with centres located in and around San Isidro and Tigre. Renosto Náutica y Deportes in San Fernando (Avenida del Libertador 1999, 4744 6090, www.wake-board.com.ar) specialises in waterskiing and wakeboarding. At Puro Remo (4313 8008, www. puroremo.com.ar), you can take in the sights of Puerto Madero (see p122) as you kayak, row or stand up paddle board your way down the river. One hour classes cost AR$200, four classes are AR$400. Inquire as well about the latest sporting craze – stand up paddle board yoga. To row or kayak down the Delta, try Delta Rowing (Lavalle 945, mobile 15 4971 9342, www. escueladeremo.com), which offers classes, boat and kayak hire and also full-moon excursions with dinner (AR$450). Popular riverside leisure spot Perú Beach (Elcano 794, 4793 5986, www.peru-beach.com.ar) in

Acasusso, reached by the Tren de la Costa, offers kitesurfing, kayaking and windsurfing, as well as roller hockey and skateboarding. Single outings start from AR$110.

Fitness

AEROBIC EXERCISE

Vitruvian (www.vitruvianba.com) runs gruelling group cross-fit sessions in Palermo and Recoleta (AR$50 per group session or AR$350 a month). Try your hand (and feet) at kickboxing with Akibo (Avenida Federico Lacroze 2430, 4771 5537). DANCE AND TRAPEZE

Cultural centres including the Ricardo Rojas and Borges (see p124) host classes from tango and flamenco to contemporary and jazz. La Huella (Bulnes 892, Almagro, 2066 1153, www.lahuellaespaciodearte.blogspot. com.ar) offers flamenco classes as well as dancehall, African dance, forró, jazz, tap and belly dancing. Chacarita’s Dance&Move (Jorge Newberry 3663, 4554 8991, www.dancemove.com.ar) has hip hop, breakdance and yoga classes. Swingin’ Buenos Aires (www.swinginbuenosaires.com.ar) runs swing classes at venues around the city. La Viruta (see p146) offers classes in rock’n’roll and salsa as well as tango. All styles of Brazilian dance are taught at Balaio (Mansilla 2787, Barrio Norte, 4963 6066, www.balaio. com.ar). At Tedancari (Avenida Corrientes 4534, Almagro, 4504 4115, www.tedancari.com), instructors teach dance styles from Afro-Cuban to rumba. For modern and classical dance, check out the schools run by Noemí Coelho and Rodolfo Olguín (Montevideo 787, Tribunales, 4812 5483, www.coelholguin.com.ar; also at Blanco Encalada 2126, Belgrano, 4781 0130). For those looking to try trapeze, juggling or tightrope, circus schools

Delightful yoga instructors Rocío and Carla will take you through your stretches at the Centro Prema (Jufré 663, 4771 2068, www.centroprema.com. ar). A class costs AR$100, four classes AR$300. Buena Onda Yoga (www. buenaondayoga.net) is an American-run studio that holds group and private classes in English and Spanish at locations across the city for US$80 a month. Meanwhile Bikram Yoga Buenos Aires (Avenida Las Heras 3541, 4800 1985, www.byba.com.ar) is the only bikram studio in the city, with rates from AR$490 per month for four classes. Lunchtime sessions are in English. At pilates studio La Usina Pilates (Studio 18, Costa Rica 4684, 4831 2534, www.pilateslausina.blogspot. com) in Palermo, prices start at AR$300 per month for four classes. For private or group yoga and pilates classes with an experienced British instructor, contact Nicola Tarbuck (see p113). RUNNING

Veteran marathoners and iPod-rocking joggers go to Palermo’s Tres de Febrero park. Hammer out your workout on the marked 1600m loop around the lake, or head out on dirt trails that take you along the safe, tree-lined Avenida Figueroa Alcorta. Scores of running groups can be found here too: if you’d like to join, just head for the Rosedal (rose garden), then ask around. The best routes downtown are the flat promenades along Puerto Madero or the red-earth tracks in the Reserva Ecológica (see p122). SWIMMING

Swimming and the murky Río de la Plata ought not to be mentioned in the same sentence – take one look at the water and you’ll see it’s far too polluted. Instead, try gym chains with pools such as Megatlón. In Belgrano, Acercar (José Hernández 1350, 4788 3352, www.natatorioacercar.com.ar) has lap lanes open to the public and entry costs from AR$110 for a day pass. Parque Norte in Núñez (4787 1382, www.parquenorte.com) has three pools and water slides.

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Whether it’s joining an impromptu game in the park or getting a group together and hiring out a pitch, you’ll never be far from a good football match. Listen up for the words cancha de fútbol (football pitch); there are hundreds in the city. Try Buenos Aires Fútbol Amigos (mobile 15 3832 8341, www.fcbafa.com), which organises weekly five-a-side games and asados for locals and foreigners of all levels (AR$60 a game).

abound, including Mamarula Escuela de Circo (mobile 15 3290 8315, www.escueladeacrobacia.com.ar). Or get airborne at Brenda Angiel aerial dance school (Bartolomé Mitre 4272, Almagro, 4983 6980, www. danzaerea.com.ar). For information on tango, see page 144.

Gay & Lesbian

Gay pride marches on

The scene

Adam Corl investigates the long (but fabulous) march from repression to celebration in BA’s LGBTQ community LUCIA PRIETO

A spectrum of sexualities are celebrated at the annual march

etting itself apart from its neighbours, Argentina’s public policies concerning marriage equality and gender identity are more akin to those in progressive European countries than to the rest of Latin America. While the sight of same-sex couples holding hands doesn’t turn that many heads these days, it hasn’t always been this way. The LGBTQ community in Argentina has had a long history of civic activism. There’s even murmurings that Argentina’s first gay rights group, Nuestro Mundo, was founded in 1967, pre-dating the Stonewall Riots in New York City that are often credited as the beginning of the gay civil rights movement. Many Argentinians see this activism as having culminated in the passing of the marriage equality act in 2010, but the journey has by no means been an easy one – and there’s still work to be done. The first Marcha del Orgullo was held in June 1992, with the aim of protesting against the country’s draconian codigos contravenciones, a set of laws that, among other things, criminalised LGBTQ behaviour and gatherings. A group of 250 courageous community members braved the cold and marched from the Casa Rosada (see p118) to the Plaza del Congreso (see p118) demanding recognition and action from the government. Many wore

masks to protect their identities. The winter day was cold and sombre, and the general tone of the march was said to have mimicked the weather. Less than 10 years after the 1976-83 dictatorship, Argentina, like the rest of the world, had been hit by the HIV/AIDS crisis. Some marchers were sick, others were simply tired of living with injustice, but all of them hoped that change was possible and that the government that seemed to either ignore or actively deny their basic human rights would one day treat them with respect. In 2001, things began to take a turn for the better. Official sponsorship for the LGBTQ movement started to pour in from condom and ‘personal care’ companies (read: businesses that produce lubricant). Local gay boliches started to get involved too. The same year saw Argentina’s economic crisis, but rainbow pride flags were carrying the scent of cold hard cash, as 2001 also happened to mark the beginning of Argentina’s LGBTQ tourism boom. Nine years later, 2010 marked the legalisation of same-sex marriage in Argentina, while 2012 saw the passage of a landmark gender identity law. In terms of the march however, masks have now given way to feather boas and body glitter. Impassioned cries for justice

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have softened and now join the cheers that ring out alongside celebratory techno beats. Realising that summer made for a much cheerier season, organisers also moved the date to the first or second Saturday in November. The 2014 march will take place on Saturday November 14. Festivities kick off at 3pm in front of the Casa Rosada with a feria where you can buy pride paraphernalia and hear guest speakers and activists take to the mic to whip the crowds into a pride-filled frenzy. This event tends to attract a very diverse crowd – so arrive with an open mind and some comfortable shoes. Though the Marcha del Orgullo has transformed over the years, the parade hasn’t lost its roots as a tool for activism and progress. Claudia Castro, vice president of La Federación Argentina de lesbianas, gays, bisexuales y trans (FALGBT), sums up the tone of the march. ‘It’s incredible, it’s super political ...but not in the sense of aggressive banner waving…, in the sense that it demands recognition from society. But on top of that, it is as much of a celebration as the pride parades in other major cities.’ For more information on Buenos Aires’s LGBTQ movement and the march, check out www.falgbt.org and www.marchadelorgullo.org.ar, or see Time Out’s resources on page 136.

Argentina was recently in the spotlight on LGBTQ issues when Facebook revealed 50 new gender identity options for Argentinian users. The announcement echoes the country’s landmark 2012 gender identity law, which gave people the right to change the gender on their identity cards, without undergoing surgery. The news elicited controversy as well as celebration. Journalist Jorge Lanata took the opportunity to not only ridicule Facebook’s announcement, but also deride openly transgendered actress Florencia de la V. But if Pope Francis is willing to state that LGBTQ folks don’t deserve to be judged, perhaps even Argentina’s most conservative citizens will catch up one day as well. Local organisations dedicated to advancing LGBTQ rights show no signs of slowing down. Groups like Comunidad Homosexual Argentina (see p136) and Casa Brandon (see p136) create antibullying campaigns, provide health resources and offer safe spaces for community members and their allies. The porteño gay scene doesn’t skip a beat when it comes to partying either. Get in on the revelry at the Out & About Gay Pub Crawl (see right), the dance-till-you-drop Fiesta Plop (see right) or eye-candy central Rheo (see p136). Girls who like girls flock to Fiesta Jolie (see p135). The queer tango scene is very much alive and twirling. Join in on Tuesdays at Tango Queer in the Buenos Ayres Club (see p146) or on Fridays at La Marshall in El Beso (see p145). And from November 17 to 23, same-sex partner dancing is all the rage at the Festival Internacional de Tango Queer. INFORMATION AND SAFETY Several travel agencies such as Hadrianus Gay Travel (www. hadrianus.com.ar) are devoted to serving gay tourists. BA4U (www. ba4uapartments.com.ar) provides apartment rental services and helpful information. Other gay friendly accommodation can be found at the luxury Be Hotel Buenos Aires (Venezuela 645, 4136 9393) or via Buenos Aires Stay (Avenida Santa Fe 1970, 3220 7138), which also has a Facebook page (www.facebook.com/ GayBuenosAiresStayGuides) with happenings in BA’s gay scene. Look out for the excellent free listings guides GMAPS (www.gaymaps.org) and Circuitos Cortos BsAs Gay (www.circuitoscortos.com.ar) in shops, bars and hotels. AG Magazine (www. agmagazine.info) is also an excellent online source of local and international LGBTQ news. A word from the wise to the horny: male prostitutes (taxi boys, as they’re known in BA) continue to be an unavoidable – and illegal – fact of the city’s nightlife. So if you’re not leaving alone, choose your post-club escort carefully. Now get out and have fun!

On the town TOURS

Out & About Gay Pub Crawl This fabulous pub crawl is a sure-fire way to mingle with both locals and travellers. The tour price gets you an hour of all-you-can-swallow beer, wine, tapas and pizza followed by a visit to three of Palermo’s hottest gay-friendly joints where crawlers are treated to a welcome shot and drink specials. By the time the group hits the boliche (VIP entrance included to popular club night Glam), participants have generally amassed a whole gang of new amigos and enough social lubricant to keep the party going until well past dawn. Check website for meeting point (www.outandaboutpubcrawl.com). Tours 10pm Thu, Sat. AR$130. BARS AND CAFÉS

Bach Bar There are no frills at this charming little lesbian bar in Palermo. The one-drink cover charge is a bargain in exchange for a guaranteed blast in what must be the friendliest lesbian joint in town. Don’t miss the live music and strippers on Wednesdays and Thursdays, or karaoke on Sundays. Cabrera 4390, y Julián Álvarez, Palermo (mobile 15 5184 0137/www. bach-bar.com.ar). Bus 36, 39, 110. Open from 11pm Wed-Sun. No credit cards. Map F2.

NEW Peuteo Peuteo is a lifesaver for the pre-boliche crowd looking to get a head start on a night of drinking and dancing. Located in the epicentre of Palermo’s nightlife, this new hetero-friendly bar fills to the brim with a young gay crowd, before they head off to a club come 2am. The name is a play on words (hint: it’s an iteration of a derogatory term for gay men), and even more playful are the adorable bartenders who concoct an array of fruit-infused cocktails, which were designed by the experts at Frank’s (see p78). Gurruchaga 1867, entre Costa Rica y Nicaragua, Palermo (4831 8507/www. peuteo.com). Bus 15, 39, 55, 111, 141. Open 7pm-3am Wed-Sun. No credit cards. Map G3. D

TOP TIP!

CLUB NIGHTS

Brandon Gay Day Once a month on a Saturday night, the gals from sapphic-centric cultural

Fiesta Eyeliner Once the hang-out of alternative and emo kids, Eyeliner has evolved into

The colourful window display at BA’s hottest new gay bar, Peuteo

one of BA’s most inclusive parties for anyone who identifies themselves as ‘queer, pop-rocker and underground’ or wants to bust moves to a hodgepodge of cumbia, ’90s pop, grunge rock and reggaeton. Set in a former church, Eyeliner takes ‘hetero-friendly’ to a whole new level, so don’t be surprised if that cute guy you had your eye on ends up leaving with a girl who looks like she walked off the set of The Matrix. Good vibes and cheap drinks ensure the queue here is always epic, and on nights when the turnout is expected to be more than they can handle, Fiesta Eyeliner takes its party to Perón 1281. The first 400 people to arrive snag free entry, latecomers will have to pay AR$50. Saturdays at Sarmiento 1272, entre Libertad y Talcahuano, Tribunales (www.facebook.com/FiestasEyeliner). Subte D, 9 de Julio/bus 5, 7, 8, 24, 39, 60, 64. Open 11.45pm-6am. Map D4. Fiesta Jolie So, what do women want? A good fancy dress party, free ice-cream, all-you-can-eat pizza, tarot card readers and karaoke, of course. The opposite sex, it seems, wants the same thing too, because while Fiesta Jolie started out as a purely lesbian and bi night, it now attracts hot young things of all genders and sexual orientations. The new space now features three dancefloors, with three different DJs and beats to choose from; DJ Fabián Jara spins pop music on one, Nicolas Etchelecu keeps the crowd moving to punk and hip hop on another, while the third floor has a new guest DJ every week. Free entry and themed nights keep the crowds coming back week in, week out. Wednesdays at Tazz, Armenia 1744, y Costa Rica, Palermo (www.facebook. com/fiestajolie). Bus 39, 110, 140, 141. Open 9pm-5am. Map G3. !Fiesta Plop What started as an underground party has grown up with its uber-young revellers who now range from barely out of their teen wonder years to late twenties and beyond. Cheap booze and a mix of straight-up pop, rock and cumbia help you keep up with the energised crowd of mostly local gays and lesbians. Every week has a new theme, with a team of dancers and actors putting on a performance that’s worth the AR$50 cover charge alone. Plop tends to pack in the crowds, so get there early and bring the correct change to avoid the long queue, and prepare for a night of sweaty body pumping. If you can’t get in, go back on Saturday for Plop’s sister party, Fiesta Puerca. Fridays at Teatro Vorterix, Avenida Federico Lacroze 3455, entre Delgado y Avenida Álvarez Thomas, Colegiales (www.facebook.com/fiestaplop). Bus 19, 39, 76, 93. Open from 12.30am. Fiesta Whip Hundreds of downtown club kids make Whip their Friday night fiesta of choice. This party has mayhem, disco balls, dancefloors and drag queens. The AR$70 entrance fee can be avoided

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Gay & Lesbian

Flux A popular fixture in the centre of town, this basement bar attracts a mixture of tourists and business travellers itching for an early drink. Thursday night draws in the biggest crowds, with pop megastars like Lady Gaga and Britney Spears making up the soundtrack, while Saturday’s two-for-one cocktails until 10pm make Flux the perfect previa spot. Located behind an unassuming black door, the bar is easy to miss. Once inside, the vibe is chilled, the lights are low and the tropical cocktails come cheap and fast. Marcelo T de Alvear 980, entre Suipacha y Carlos Pellegrini, Retiro (5252 0258/fluxbarbuenosaires. blogspot.com.ar). Subte C, San Martín/ bus 10, 17, 115, 129. Open from 7pm daily. No credit cards. Map D5. D

centre Casa Brandon (see p136) get Pride Hollywood If you’re looking to escape the buzzing their dance on at Niceto Club (see p90). Now in its 14th year, Brandon streets for a quiet coffee, the relaxing gay- and hetero-friendly atmosphere at Gay Day is one of the city’s most inclusive LGBTQ parties. All ages, Pride Hollywood is just the thing. genders and sexual orientations come While the original Pride in San Telmo together to shake it like a Polaroid is a long-standing favourite for the afternoons, this branch, situated on the picture on the dancefloor of Niceto Club. The AR$60 entrance fee gets cobbled corner of a tree-lined street, is livelier in the evenings and has a lovely you in with the performers, bands and house music beats that keep the arty menu of Italian cuisine. Humboldt 1897, y Costa Rica, Palermo crowd moving till the break of dawn. Saturdays at Niceto Club, (4776 6197/www.pridehollywood. monthly, Niceto Vega 5510, com.ar). Bus 34, 39. Open y Humboldt, Palermo 10am-9pm Mon-Fri; (www.brandongayday. 10am-8pm Sat. No com.ar). Bus 34, 39. Early birds credit cards. Open 1-6am. Map H2. Many gay club nights Map H3. D have free entry for the first 300 or 400 people, Fiesta Dorothy Sitges so get there early to nab Put on by the Rheo Sitges is one of BA’s few a place in the Group, the city’s gay options for gays and queue. event powerhouse, this lesbians who’ve tossed out fiesta requires you to prepare their dancing shoes or those your stunning self for a huge night, looking for a bar stool where they can where DJs spin electronic and pop kill an hour or two before heading to remixes and three-storey high video nearby Amerika (see p136) or Glam screens put you in the mood to dance it (see p136). The drinks are no bargain, but getting hammered isn’t exactly the out with 2,000 partygoers. It helps that the night draws some of the bestpoint here, unless it’s Friday (when a looking guys and gals BA has to offer, AR$70 wristband at the door gets you as much beer and liquor – local brands from pill-popping musculocas dancing only – as you can handle). Some nights, shirtless on the main floor downstairs to young model wannabes. Consider drag comedy, musical numbers and shelling out with a group of friends to strippers who grin and bare it all liven up the mood, and there’s karaoke fun to get a VIP table for AR$2000 (AR$1300 of which goes towards drinks). If you be had on Sundays. (On weekends, pick up a pass to Glam on the way out.) can’t cough up that much change, get Avenida Córdoba 4119, entre Palestina in before 2am for the AR$70 entrance. Fridays at Alsina, approx monthly, y Pringles, Palermo (4861 3763/www. stigesonline.com.ar). Bus 92, 140, 168. Alsina 940, Monserrat (mobile 15 Open 11pm-3am Wed-Sun. No credit 3430 2711/www.facebook.com/fiesta. dorothy). Subte A, Piedras/bus 2, 17, cards. Map F2. 56. Open from 12.30am. Map C4.

by getting your name on a list, but with frequent barra libre nights, the price certainly doesn’t keep the local club fiends away from the fun. Fridays at Avenida Córdoba 543, y Florida, Retiro (www.facebook.com/ FiestaWhip). Bus 20, 22, 45, 115, 126. Open from 1am. Map C5. !Rheo The place to be seen on Saturdays, this weekly party in Crobar’s side space has three things going for it: BA’s best-looking gay crowd, a friendly party vibe and a massive, hopping outdoor area for mingling or more intimate moments. You can shell out AR$2000 for a VIP table, but even the AR$170 cover charge is sure to guarantee a good time. The night before public holidays, the party changes its name to Human and relocates to Crobar’s main dancefloor. Keep an eye on Rheo’s website for info on one of the biggest, gayest parties of the year, Bagfest, held every November and March. Saturdays at Crobar, Marcelino Freyre e Infanta Isabel, Paseo de la Infanta, Palermo (mobile 15 3430 2711/ www.rheo.com.ar). Bus 10, 34, 160. Open from 12.30am. Map G5.

Gay & Lesbian

CLUBS

Amerika BA’s biggest gay disco regularly draws thousands of boozed-up, party-hungry punters of increasingly mixed and flexible sexual orientations, including a good-times straight crowd. There are two dancefloors, with four bars and ultra-flirtatious bartenders – sorry, though, guys, they’re mainly straight. Add to that regular live shows, strippers, all-you-can-drink nights on Fridays and Saturdays for AR$70-$160 and a very packed darkroom. Gascón 1040, entre Rocamora y Estado de Israel, Almagro (4865 4416/ www.ameri-k.com.ar). Subte B, Medrano/bus 19, 36, 151, 160, 168. Open 1-6.30am Fri-Sun. Map F2. Contramano Remember the 1980s? Well, the crowd here – some of it original in more ways than one – is living proof that the gay pickup/hustler bar theme never really

Tying the knot Since gay marriage became legal in Argentina in 2010, more than 7,000 same-sex couples have got hitched. As long as you’ve been in the country for more than five days, you too can make things official. American Laetita Orsetti at Fabulous Weddings (4776 6909, www.fab-weddings.com) can help you with the paperwork, as well as plan your special day. Whether you’re dreaming of a simple sunset ceremony in Tigre, or want to go all out and organise everything down to a fully-choreographed first dance or honeymoon around Argentina, Fabulous Weddings strives to make your wedding a unique, creative celebration of you and your partner.

Fiesta Dorothy (see p135)

died. A cover of AR$40-$90 (depending on the night) gets you a drink and the chance to cruise and dance to pop, disco and electro. Rodríguez Peña 1082, y Marcelo T de Alvear, Recoleta (4811 0494/www. contramano.com). Subte D, Callao/bus 17, 39, 140, 150. Open midnight-6am Fri, Sat; 11pm-5am Sun. Map D4.

just around the corner from the working boys on Marcelo T de Alvear and next door to Zoom (see right). Uriburu 1012, y Marcelo T de Alvear, Barrio Norte (4829 2164). Subte D, Pueyrredón/bus 29. Open 7am-11pm Mon-Fri; 9am-8pm Sat. Admission AR$40. per day; AR$250 one month membership. Credit V. Map E4.

Glam Glam packs them in on Thursdays and Saturdays (free with a pass from Sitges, see p135) with expats, tourists and porteños of all ages rounding out the crowd. Pick your spot from the two bars, several lounge areas, main dancefloor or boogie area in the back (featuring 1980s pop and Latin beats) and let the fun begin. Hit the hot darkroom behind the back bar, just a short climb up a winding staircase – some might call it a stairway to heaven. Cabrera 3046, entre Laprida y Agüero, Barrio Norte (4963 2521). Bus 29, 92. Open 1-6am Thu, Sat. Map E3.

Megatlon Sede Barrio Norte Like the other Megatlons throughout BA (see p133), membership means access to a pool, machines, weights and all the typical fitness classes. Unlike other Megatlons, the large gay membership and status as a cruising spot means you can make some new acquaintances in the spinning class. Rodríguez Peña 1062, y Avenida Santa Fe, Barrio Norte (4816 8566/www. megatlon.com/sedes/barrionorte). Subte D, Callao/bus 10, 12. Open 6am-11pm Mon-Fri; 8am-8pm Sat; 10am-6pm Sun. Admission AR$230 per day; AR$1010 one month membership. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E4.

CULTURAL CENTRE

Casa Brandon Where’s a girl to go when she wants to have fun? Try this four-storey house, named after Brandon Teena, the transman played by Hilary Swank in Boys Don’t Cry – it’s a cultural centre, gallery, resto-bar, lounge, movie theatre and performance space rolled into one. Come for information, for sapphic socialising at the bar (boys also welcome) or just to take in the scenery. Luís María Drago 236, entre Lavalleja y Julián Álvarez, Villa Crespo (4858 0610/www.brandongayday.com.ar). Subte B, Malabia/bus 15, 124, 141. Open from 8pm Wed-Sun. Map F1.

Work and play GYMS

Caribbean This is a great gym with a range of free weights and machines. But the real draw is the guys. Packed from 7.30pm to 8.30pm on weekdays, this gym is

136 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15

SAUNAS, SPAS & CRUISING SPOTS

Buenos Aires a Full This place draws a young crowd and is busiest at the weekends and after work during the week thanks to its saunas, jacuzzi and film screenings. Tanning beds mean you can even work on your colour before mingling. Viamonte 1770, entre Avenida Callao y Rodríguez Peña, Tribunales (4371 7263/www.bsasafullspa.com.ar). Subte D, Callao/bus 12, 26, 37, 60. Open noon-midnight Mon-Thu; 24hrs Fri-Sun. Admission AR$120. No credit cards. Map D4. Homo Sapiens Handily located just a block away from Amerika (see left), this complex has private cabins, drinks, a movie zone, saunas and a smoking area. Gascón 956, y Rocamora, Almagro (4862 6519). Subte B, Medrano/bus 24. Open noon-midnight daily. Admission AR$80. Map F2.

Markus Day Spa Markus is Latin America’s first spa to offer top-line spa treatments exclusively to men. The modern gentleman about town looking to get pampered will surely be satisfed with services that range from stress fighting caviar facials to vinoterapia (wine therapy) sessions, along with procedures from the emerging field of aesthetic medicine like Botox and laser hair removal. Ground floor, Avenida Callao 1046, y Marcelo T de Alvear, Barrio Norte (4811 0058/www.markusformen.com). Subte D, Callao/bus 10, 12, 152. Open noon-9.30pm Mon-Sat; noon-9pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D4. Zoom Conveniently located next to one of the gayest gyms in town (Caribbean, see left), this sex club offers every nook and cranny you can dream of and has a good mix of fun toys. Uriburu 1018, y Marcelo T de Alvear, Barrio Norte (4827 4828/www. zoombuenosaires.com). Subte D, Pueyrredón/bus 37, 39. Open 24hrs daily. Admission AR$70. Map E4.

Resources Comunidad Homosexual Argentina (CHA) This is Argentina’s oldest and most politically influential queer organisation. Visit for advice and the exhaustive library of books and films. Tomás Liberti 1080, e Irala, La Boca (4361 6382/www.cha.org.ar). Bus 10. Open call to arrange a visit. Map A3. La Fulana La Fulana is an indispensible community centre where lesbian and bisexual women get together to drink maté, chat, make friends and share tips. Apartment 6F, Avenida de Mayo 881, y Tacuari, Microcentro (4342 1689/ www.lafulana.org.ar). Subte A, Piedras/ bus 2, 5, 7, 50. Open 8.30-10.30pm Fri. Map C4.

Music Cool cats Tango isn’t the only old school music haunting Buenos Aires. Gretchen Gardner meets the greasers and pin-up girls that make up Buenos Aires’s rockabilly scene

he Stray Cats are blasting out in the background at Mundo Bizarro (see p80) as a heavily-tattooed, well-groomed crowd forms at the bar. The women are dressed like punk pin-up girls; the men a mix of Elvis, Popeye and Johnny Cash. Mundo Bizarro opened in 1997, and is one of the few bars in Buenos Aires to have survived the economic ups and downs that Argentina has weathered over the past few years. The bar’s signature rockabilly culture is also still going strong; of all the trends that Buenos Aires has seen over the years, this is one that has truly stood the test of time, generating followers so devoted that the style permeates every aspect of their lives. Rockabilly culture and music originated in the 1950s in the United States, where it was one of the earliest forms of rock and roll. A mix of country, bluegrass and rhythm and blues, the name blends the words ‘rock’ and ‘hillbilly’. One of rockabilly music’s most interesting characteristics is that it has re-emerged and reshaped over the years to form a part of a global punk subculture, hence all the heavilytattooed fans. The scene really took off in Buenos Aires in the 1980s, with the group Los Casanovas. Today, the group’s front-man Flavio Casanova leads the band Flavio Casanova Rock, and Pablo Pignatta, Mundo Bizarro’s legendary bartender, manages the ultimate rockabilly band, Los

Los Primitivos exemplify rockabilly style

Primitivos. The latter, who formed in 1986, were heavily influenced by Los Casanovas. They describe their musical style as the climax of a mix of ‘broken hearts, retro sci-fi and high doses of whisky,’ also characterised by typical rockabilly techniques. Lead vocalist Phonzy Auday slaps his double bass, Animal Lee Urso stands up as he rocks out on the drums while cool cat Peter Aleksey plays the guitar. Auday and Urso have been playing together since 1986, and in 2010 Aleksey joined, replacing his brother, who was the original guitarist. As word got out, Buenos Aires’s close-knit fans of the genre were bonded by their love for everything rockabilly, including denim jackets, slicked back hair, red lipstick and polka-dot prints. It is a style that Los Primitivos say gradually slips into every aspect of your life, whether you like it or not. ‘It starts with the music, but once you’re in, you’re all in. It’s inevitable,’ says Urso. It was the explosion of the internet in BA, around the year 2000, that allowed rockabilly fans throughout the country to finally

It starts with the music, but once you’re in, you’re all in

138 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15

unite, and over the years, younger billies have joined them after finding out about the scene online. Aside from Los Primitivos, other Argentinian rockabilly bands currently doing the rounds are Los Aceitosos, Motorama, The Holy Cows, Radio Texas and Sam and the Old Boys. While Pignatta’s bizarre bar is emblematic of the culture, you can also hear rockabilly at venues like Salón Pueyrredón (see p139), a pillar of Buenos Aires’s rock scene, M.O.D. Variete Club (see p90) in San Telmo and the monthly Sixteen Chicks Rockabilly Party held at Palermo’s El Especial (Avenida Córdoba 4391, 4776 5852, www.facebook. com/sixteenchicksrockabilly). Since rockabilly fans live and breathe the culture, it’s no shock that clothing brands, events, and other products have emerged to cater to the movement’s very particular target audience. For hair care, head to Salón Berlin (Humboldt 1411, 2070 4050, www. facebook.com/salonberlinbar). The traditional barber shop is a male-only space where straight razor shaves and whiskery moustaches are lovingly coifed by the salon’s barber, Chopper, whose cane, long moustache and

perfectly-shined leather shoes appear to have dropped right out of the early 20th century. Don’t be fooled into thinking that Salón Berlin is just for cutting hair and trimming moustaches, however. As the evening draws to a close, barber shop becomes bar and recently spruced up men play ping-pong and set the world to rights over a Campari or two. All genders are welcome at Dinamita Club’s (www. facebook/dinamitaclub) monthly events, which feature clothing brands, one-of-a-kind decorative items, Pignatta’s top-of-the-line cocktails and, most importantly, live music. Don’t feel pressured to jump right in when it comes to embracing the rockabilly look, though. ‘The hair does not make the rockabilly,’ emphasises Auday. ‘It’s more of an attitude than a look.’ Most visitors to Buenos Aires associate the city with tango and football rather than with Chuck Berry and the double bass. But if you ever wanted proof of the vibrant and diverse subcultures that exist in this truly metropolitan city, put on a denim jacket, slap some grease on your hair and pull up a seat to the bar at Mundo Bizarro. Who knows, you may also become a total rockabilly convert.

The essentials

Cumbia’s distinctive beats blaring from a car radio, the bang of drums in the park as carnival murgas prepare to party and tango singers crooning about their beloved city – these are just a few of the sounds you’ll hear in Buenos Aires. To dive into the local music scene, bring your handkerchief to wave to the sound of folclore at a peña or head nod to a new indie rock band at a local underground bar. And if you prefer something a little more sophisticated, there are dozens of venues featuring classical and jazz music as well. Argentina’s musical giants aren’t as well-known outside of Latin America, but they still inspire adoration in their home country. Carlos Gardel is the king of tango, but there are plenty of more modern superstars that reign proudly over the category of rock nacional, or Argentinian rock. Big names that still get airplay include Patricio Rey y sus Redonditos de Ricota, heavy metal and blues singer Pappo and one of the most influential figures of Argentinian rock, Luis Alberto Spinetta. If all you want to do is get down to a pumping, body-moving beat, no need to worry – Buenos Aires has a killer dance music scene that goes far beyond reggaeton and cumbia.

SMALL VENUES

Buenos Aires has tons of good venues – and its Subte stations and parks are some of them. You’ll doubtless stumble across some música en vivo (live music) as you wander at night, especially in San Telmo. Listen out and look for blackboards, flyers and queues of youngsters outside unlikely looking doors. Two of the lesser-known jewels in San Telmo include Tabaco (Estados Unidos 265, 4232 9794), a grungy little club populated by rocker types, and Bar Guebara (Humberto 1° 463, mobile 15 5771 5550), which is another good bet for live music. In the centre, Ultra (San Martín 678, 4312 5605, www.ultrapop-ar.blogspot.com.ar) is gig central, and you can also catch bands at La Cigale (see p74). The Library Lounge (see p76) at the very fancy Faena Hotel Buenos Aires is a beautiful venue with pricey sauce. In Palermo, atmospheric Café Vinilo

(Gorriti 3780, 4866 6510, www. cafevinilo.com.ar), Vuela el Pez (Avenida Córdoba 4379, 4774 6834, www.facebook.com/vuelaelpez), NoAvestruz (see p143) and La Oreja Negra (Uriarte 1271, 2053 3263, www. laorejanegra.weebly.com) all offer varied live music. Makena (Fitz Roy 1519, 4772 8281, www.facebook.com/ makenacantinaclub) serves up a mean cocktail and a varied line-up of bands, while indie-cool El Quetzal (Guatemala 4516, 3526 4805, www. elquetzal.com.ar) hosts live music most nights. The eclectic acts that play at Almagro’s Club Cultural Matienzo (Pringles 1249, 6610 1520, www. ccmatienzo.com.ar) frequently defy genre. For music you can move to, Abasto’s Uniclub (Guardia Vieja 3360, 4867 6764, www.uniclub.com.ar) hosts a steady stream of reggae, ska and Latin acts as well as a selection of just-emerging-from-the-garage bands. In Almagro, swing bands, tango orchestras and sedate, candlelit piano recitals are on the weekly menu at hidden bar Sr Duncan (see p82) and bands rock out in the basement of student favourite Imaginario Cultural (Bulnes 899). A stone’s throw away, dingy joint Ladran Sancho (Guardia Vieja 3811, 4863 1095, www.facebook.com/ladransancho espaciodearte) has a packed line-up of mostly acoustic local acts. In Barracas, catch singer-songwriters and bands performing anything from rock and pop to reggae and Afrobeat at Plasma (Piedras 1856). MAJOR VENUES

When international names hit the capital, their shows tend to sell out quickly. The biggest acts regale the masses at River Plate Stadium (Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 7597, 4789

1200), GEBA Jorge Newbery (Marcelino Freyre 3831, 4382 0031), Luna Park (Avenida Madero 420, 5279 5279, www.lunapark.com.ar) and Estadio Único (www.estadiolp. gba.gov.ar), which is outside the capital in the city of La Plata. Other important venues in BA include the Teatro Gran Rex (Avenida Corrientes 857, 4322 8000, www.teatro-granrex.com.ar), which seats 3,500 people, and traditional theatre ND/Ateneo (Paraguay 918, 4328 2888, www.ndateneo.com.ar), which is a key venue for theatre performances as well as for local or Latin American musicians who play genres ranging from folclore to rock. The intimate Samsung Studio (5 de Julio 444, 5533 5533, www. samsungstudio.com.ar) features anything from jazz and pop to chanson française. Attracting discerning fans, La Trastienda (Balcarce 460, 4342 7650, www.latrastienda.com) hosts cutting-edge local bands, established Latin American talent and international performers. Ciudad Cultural Konex (see p142) is an excellent venue for interesting and dynamic acts, like Monday’s improvisational percussion concerts held under the banner La Bomba de Tiempo. Niceto Club (see p90) and Groove (Avenida Santa Fe 4389, www.palermogroove.com) are good places to catch local and international indie bands, while Crobar (see p86) occasionally hosts fun dance crossover acts. Salón Pueyrredón (Avenida Santa Fe 4560, www.salonpueyrredon. com.ar) is the closest thing BA has to a classic punk club. It’s also the city’s major testing ground for local rock and pop outfits, so most nights Levi’s and designer T-shirts outnumber mohicans and studded dog-collars.

Music

CONCERTS AND TICKET INFO There are concerts every day of every week, with larger ones publicised on billboards and smaller ones advertised in the local press and listed on websites like Vuenos Airez (www.vuenosairez. com), Time Out Buenos Aires’s Facebook page (www.facebook.com/ timeoutba) and the BA section of Songkick (www.songkick.com). You can buy tickets through Ticketek (5237 7200, www.ticketek.com.ar, eight locations). Alternatively, use Plateanet (5236 3000, www.plateanet.com) or TuEntrada (5254 9100, www.tuentrada. com) for theatre and music bookings. Most smaller venues, especially clubs, take cash only for shows. Take note: unless a concert is held in a licensed bar or club, alcohol is not served at concert venues or festivals.

with tango and traditional folk music, has been given the electro treatment. The record label ZZK Records (www. zzkrecords.com) is taking digital cumbia to the world stage, with acts like Chancha Via Circuito, Villa Diamante and La Yegros. Digital folklore artist Tremor is also on the label’s roster, pairing synth loops with Andean flutes and bombo legüero (drum) samples. Other locals spearheading the digital folklore boom include female singersongwriters Soema Montenegro and Paloma del Cerro, as well as vibrant male-female duo Tonolec and Sonido Guay Ñene, an electro-folklore band hailing from Mendoza. Hip hop, dancehall, reggae and cumbia are the genres traversed by the feisty Miss Bolivia, who is always a hot ticket around town.

Rock, indie and dance

Local rock group Banda de Turistas plays at La Trastienda

PAULA MCALLISTER

Buenos Aires has well and truly established itself on the international concert circuit, with well-known acts like Arcade Fire, Damon Albarn and Yo La Tengo having regaled the capital recently. While most local hipsters still worship The Rolling Stones and The Beatles, home-grown rock nacional also enjoys massive popularity, with artists like Charly García and Kevin Johansen, and bands like Onda Vaga, Babasónicos, Divididos, Tan Biónica and El Mató a un Policía Motorizado, which are just some of the acts currently doing the rounds in BA. Once the soundtrack of the city’s slums, cumbia now commands fans from across the social strata, and along

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15 139

Live music weekly agenda Monday at Folk You Mondays at La dama de Bollini Start the week down a romantic cobblestone alley in Recoleta, where young musicians showcase their latest compositions at open mic night. www.facebook.com/folkyoumondays. Tuesday at Café Vinilo Impressive acoustics, reasonably priced drinks and a diverse line-up of tango, folklore, jazz and rock bands draw an arty crowd to Palermo’s Café Vinilo. See p139. Wednesday at Latin Jam at Uniclub This mambo and Latin jazz club night has been going strong for five years and shows no sign of stopping. Resident group La Descarga has 13 members, a large collection of funky hats and an infinite supply of energy. See p139. Thursday at Jueves de Swing at Sr Duncan Show off your lindy-hop to the cheerful sound of swing in this beautiful restored mansion. Regular bands include La Familia de Ukeleles and Orquesta Inestable, both guaranteed to get even the most reluctant feet tapping. See p82. Friday at Bebop Club A night at this swanky basement club never fails to disappoint. The soul, funk, blues and jazz acts are top-notch, as are the food and wine from restaurant Aldo’s (see p36), located upstairs. See right.

Music

Saturday at Salón Pueyrredón This grungy venue showcases up-andcoming local bands that play mostly rock, indie and punk, plus genre-defying variations of the three. See p139. Sunday at Afromama at Makena An up-for-it mix of foreigners and locals groove to funk, soul and hip hop till the early hours. See p139.

www.cardones.com.ar), is popular with sophisticated basement venue Bebop students, as is La Peña del Club (Moreno 364, 4331 3409, www. bebopclub.com.ar) features quality Colorado (Güemes 3657, 4822 1038, jazz, blues, funk, soul and pop acts. www.lapeniadelcolorado.com), which The refined and trendy Boris jazz has good acts and criollo-style food. If club (Gorriti 5568, 4777 0012, www. you haven’t yet tried maté, the herbal borisclub.com.ar) also regularly hosts infusion that’s an Argentinian passion an exciting line-up of musicians, while and a daily ritual, this is a good place the Teatro IFT (Boulogne Sur Mer to put that right. Once the troubadours 549, 4961 9562, www.teatroift.org.ar) have finished with the show, guitars boasts regular live jazz acts in addition are handed out so you can make your to its theatre performances. own music, and there’s also dancing. San Telmo’s Café Rivas (see For those with more stamina, p36) and Boedo’s bohemian peñas bailables are all-night Pan y Arte (see p42) are wine-sloshing, intimate spots to enjoy foot-stomping shindigs weekly jazz recitals providing a happy over a glass of red Punctuality is not the hoedown. wine. In Barrio Norte, speciality of local bands. Some of the best Clásica y Moderna In true rock style, most (Avenida Callao, 4812 small gigs begin well after monthly parties (held on Saturday nights) are 8707, www.clasica the scheduled start ymoderna.com) hosts La Resentida time. regular jazz and blues (Bacacay 1600, www. shows in an elegant space. laresentida.com.ar) in Caballito Swing jazz has a small but devoted and De La Ribera (Díaz de Solís following; look out for swing bands 2289, www.webfolklore.com.ar/ Lobo Con Swing and Orquesta laribera) in Olivos. The weekly Feria Inestable. The city government also organises Buenos Aires Jazz (www. de Mataderos (see p114) is also a top spot for live folkloric music and buenosairesjazz.gob.ar), which takes dancing. For a list of Buenos Aires’s place from 19 to 24 November. peñas, see www.folkloreclub.com.ar. Reflecting Buenos Aires’s large Spanish community are the flamenco bars scattered around Avenida de Buenos Aires might be the capital of Mayo. An inexpensive option, Bar Argentina, but the country’s musical Cantares (Rivadavia 1180, 4381 6965, heart lies far from this fashionable www.cantarestablao.com.ar) features centre. In fact, most Argentinians are live flamenco on Friday and Saturday more likely to listen to música nights for AR$100. Opened by a folclórica than tango. At live folklore shows, or peñas, you Spanish immigrant, Avila (Avenida can tune in to the chacarera, zamba and de Mayo 1384, 4383 6974) hosts flamenco shows on Fridays and chamamé – the country sounds of Saturdays at 10.30pm for AR$280, Argentina’s far-flung provinces. A great restaurant peña, Los Cardones including tapas and drinks. The (Jorge Luis Borges 2180, 4777 1112, atmospheric bar has walls covered

TOP TIP!

Folk and world

with old black-and-white pictures, but even better are the fiery Andalucian steps enacted on stage.

Classical and opera

Opera, classical music and ballet buffs should not miss a night at the magnificent Teatro Colón (see p142). Classical music can be found elsewhere in the city, including at the Teatro Coliseo (Marcelo T de Alvear 1125, 4814 3056), La Boca’s Usina del Arte (see p143), which has a 1,200-seat concert hall, the Museo de Arte Hispanoamericano Isaac Fernández Blanco (see p122), the Teatro San Martín (see p143) and Teatro Margarita Xirgú (Chacabuco 875, 4300 8817, www.salaxirgu. blogspot.com.ar). The Teatro Nacional Cervantes (see p142) has free contemporary orchestral recitals, while the Biblioteca Nacional (Agüero 2502, 4808 6000, www.bn.gov. ar) often puts on free classical and jazz concerts. Auditorio de Belgrano (Virrey Loreto 2348, 4783 1783) holds free classical concerts on Friday evenings. The Centro Cultural Recoleta (see p124) also hosts occasional classical concerts. Modest institutions like La Scala de San Telmo (Pasaje Giuffra 371, 4362 3847, www.lascala.com.ar) are awash with talented performers. Much of the city’s classical music scene is in the hands of professional and amateur groups, including the Mozarteum Argentino (Ground floor ‘A’, Rodríguez Peña 1882, 4811 3348) and Festivales Musicales (www.festivalesmusicales. org.ar). Opera and classical music fans ought to visit Teatro Avenida (Avenida de Mayo 1222, 4381 0662).

In Colegiales, Teatro Vorterix (Federico Lacroze 3455, www. elteatroonline.com.ar) is a spectacular old theatre showcasing both new and established rockers, while in Flores, El Teatro Flores (Avenida Rivadavia 7806, www.elteatroonline.com.ar) hosts local and international acts.

Jazz and blues

140 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15

Gypsy rockers Gogol Bordello at Groove

PAULA MCALLISTER

A growing jazz and blues scene is emerging in Buenos Aires, and there are free and inexpensive recitals to be found at venues throughout the city, in addition to well-known acts. Notorious (Avenida Callao 966, 4813 6888, www.notorious.com.ar) hosts daily shows by respected local jazzers as well as occasional new folk and world music acts. Inspired by New York jazz clubs, Thelonius Club (Salguero 1884, 4829 1562, www.thelonious.com.ar) combines the comforts of a very well-stocked bar with an impressive programme of live jazz. In the centre,

SEBASTIÁN ARPESELLA

Performing Arts

K29 perform Duramadre

At the crossroads Dance troupe KM29 is breaking out of the suburbs in surprising ways. Sophie Parker catches up with the group’s director Juan Onofri Barbato

ake a group of marginalised teenage boys, add a talented, altruistic choreographer and fast forward a few years to their European stage debut: it sounds like something Stephen Daldry might direct. In fact, it’s a story that has been playing out for almost five years between Argentina’s capital and González Catán, a humble town 20 miles away that is home to dance troupe KM29. KM29 refers to a chaotic crossroads on Argentina’s Route 3, which links the province of Buenos Aires and the capital. In one direction, lie the bright lights of the big city; in another, González Catán and the Casa Jóven La Salle, a centre for youths at risk of social exclusion. In 2010 choreographer and KM29 director Juan Onofri Barbato took the road to Casa Jóven to volunteer at a physical training workshop. He knew kids from the centre were going through some tough times. He knew some of them were finishing criminal sentences. What he didn’t know was that within

a few weeks, the potential of the young men he was working with, inexperienced in modern dance or performance, would convince him they should be on stage. ‘The first day I went there, they were already surprising me’, Onofri Barbato recalls. ‘There was potential in their youth and their sporting ability. There was great power of expression, but it was like it was contained.’ The boys’ potential was capable of becoming anything, including a violent act, Onofri Barbato suggests. Instead, it has found its outlet in riveting performances that reference the various disciplines – modern dance, parkour, martial arts and acrobatics – that Pablo Kun Castro, Alfonso Barón and Amparo González Sola, members of the company hailing from outside of González Catán, bring to the mix. Onofri Barbato wasn’t about to start talking steps in those first days, however. ‘I made sure not to talk much about dance at the start and to talk more about the physical training so that the guys wouldn’t get freaked

out.’ Imposing a specific sequence of steps is also just not his style. For the graduate of the Teatro San Martín’s (see p143) prestigious and demanding contemporary dance workshop, the interest lies in creating dance pieces based on what happens to the performer’s body. And what better bodies to work with than those of the young men from BA’s tough suburbs, charged with an entirely different kind of experience than the rigorously trained figures that Onofri Barbato usually encounters in his line of work. What KM29 does defies easy classification. The group fuses capital and province, various disciplines, and the world of professional performers with that of socially disadvantaged individuals with no experience in performing arts. Without a doubt, this group enjoys blurring boundaries and challenging

traditional categorisation. In the company’s most recent work, Duramadre, the dancers appear masked for a significant part of the performance. The aim is to divert attention from the cast’s identifying features, so as to avoid any preconceived ideas about social class interfering with the audience’s experience. On stage, at least, it doesn’t matter where these individuals come from: it’s all about the group. But how did the group dynamic change with the addition of dancer Amparo González Sola, another graduate of Teatro San Martín’s dance workshop and, so far, the only female performer in the company? Her gender was a non-issue, the director explains. It’s the ample professional experience and breadth of technique she contributes that have had the biggest impact, rounding out and reinforcing the group’s possibilities. With two shows, Duramadre and 2011’s Los Posibles – plus the 2013 film of the same name, directed by filmmaker Santiago Mitre and Onofri Barbato – under their belts, the guys from González Catán have built up some impressive experience in a short amount of time. KM29’s director notes that, at their age, he hadn’t even begun to dance. ‘These days they’re more privileged than marginalised.’ It’s hardly all Hollywood happy endings, however. While it’s unlikely that any of the young men, in that first encounter with Onofri Barbato, imagined just what they would go on to achieve, they still face a struggle surviving as artists in a country where making a living from the arts is, in the choreographer’s words, ‘an absurd fantasy’, and even more so for a 20-year-old lad from Buenos Aires province. Group member Jonathan Da Rosa supplements his income from the shows with occasional appearances in adverts, and wound up as the protagonist in local director Benjamín Naishtat’s 2014 film Historia del Miedo (History of Fear). Da Rosa and his KM29 colleague Lucas Araujo are also teaching assistants in the classes led by González Sola and Pablo Kun Castro, which the group offers to other young people. As for that European debut, it’s on the agenda for 2015. In the first half of next year, KM29 will perform in Holland and Belgium as part of the Get Lost festival. How does Onofri Barbato think KM29 will be received? ‘I really have no idea. We’re going to go to really big theatres. I’m not sure how it’s going to work… It’s going to be an experiment, like everything we do.’ Long may that experimentation continue. For more information, videos and tour dates, check out KM29’s website (www.grupo.km29.net).

There was potential in their youth and their sporting ability

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15 141

The basics

Buenos Aires is the theatrical hub of Latin America, and its theatres are bursting at the seams almost every night of the week. While a trip to the spectacular Teatro Colón (see p142) should be high on your BA bucket list, it’s also well worth checking out the underground theatre scene. Head to website Alternativa Teatral (www. alternativateatral.com) for a comprehensive list of alternative performances, mostly in or around Abasto and Almagro, as well as discounted tickets. More lowbrow entertainment can be found on glitzy Avenida Corrientes (BA’s version of Broadway), home to cabaret revue shows known as revistas porteñas. Expect slapstick comedians and scantily-clad showgirls. If your Spanish isn’t quite up to scratch, you might prefer a physical theatre performance. These popular shows combine sensory effects with aerial acrobatics and circus tricks.

Theatre in BA ranges from high-profile comedy acts and musical numbers to under-the-radar productions, often exploring political themes. But with more than 160 theatres in the capital alone, off-Corrientes and off-offCorrientes productions proliferate wildly, with works of independent theatre to be found. Government-funded venues like the Teatro San Martín (see p143), cultural centres (see p124) and Ciudad Cultural Konex (see right) all host a variety of multimedia productions. For acting workshops, try the British Arts Centre (see p124).

2848). Traditional dances such as the chacarera and the foot-stomping zamba (not to be confused with the samba) can be seen and practised at folk music venues known as peñas (see p140).

multiteatro.com.ar). Subte B, Uruguay/ bus 26, 60, 102. Box office 10am-8pm daily. Shows Wed-Sun. Tickets AR$250. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D4.

All venues

!Teatro Colón This is one of Buenos Aires’s grandest landmarks, complete with a lavish interior and powerful acoustics. As well as regular performances by the BA Philharmonic Orchestra, it stages superb ballets (including classics like Cinderella and Swan Lake) as well as operas (such as the Verdi tribute Masked Ball). Libertad 621, y Tucumán, Tribunales (4378 7100/guided tours 4378 7127/ www.teatrocolon.org.ar). Subte D, Tribunales/bus 5, 10, 39, 129, 140. Box office 10am-8pm Mon-Sat; 10am-5pm Sun. Guided tours 9am-5pm daily. Tickets AR$40-$2000; guided tours AR$130. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5.

MAJOR INSTITUTIONS

!Ciudad Cultural Konex Based in a former factory, this complex provides a gritty industrial backdrop to an array of events, pulling in a young, bohemian crowd. It’s perhaps best known for Monday’s La Bomba de Tiempo, an improvisational percussion-based musical show whose beats keep the crowd moving from 7pm until 10pm; entry is AR$70. Clowning around Sarmiento 3131, entre Although tango tends to Circus acts are big Jean Jaurès y dominate dance in business in BA. For Anchorena, Abasto Buenos Aires, a shows and courses, try (4864 3200/www. deep-rooted classical www.totocastineiras. ciudadculturalkonex.org). tradition exists as well. com. Subte B, Carlos Gardel/ The Ballet Teatro bus 26, 168, 180, 188, 194. Colón, established in 1925, is Box office 4-8pm Mon-Fri; 6-10pm the oldest company in South Thu-Sun. Shows Wed-Mon. Tickets America. Another famous local group AR$50-$160. Credit AmEx, MC, V. to look out for is Maximiliano Guerra’s Map E2. Ballet del Mercosur. For those who have seen one Swan Lake too many, there’s the Ballet Contemporáneo at Multiteatro the Teatro San Martín, and Compañía With its three small, versatile auditoriums, Multiteatro has a de Danza Contemporánea at the Centro Nacional de la Música y la reputation for putting on provocative one-person shows as well as local Danza (México 564, 4300 7384), a splendid old building that was once the adaptations of contemporary classics. Avenida Corrientes 1283, y national library. For modern dance, a good option is El Portón de Sánchez Talcahuano, Tribunales (information (Sánchez de Bustamante 1034, 4863 4382 9140/tickets 5236 3000/www.

Dance

TOP TIP!

Teatro Liceo This 600-seat theatre is the oldest and one of the most spectacular venues in the city and is still going strong. Avenida Rivadavia 1499, entre Paraná y Uruguay, Congreso (4381 5745/ www.multiteatro.com.ar). Subte A, Sáenz Peña/bus 39, 168. Box office 10am-8pm Mon, Tue; 10am-start of show Wed-Sun. Tickets AR$230-$250. Credit AmEx, V. Map C4. !Teatro Nacional Cervantes The packed programme here includes Latin American and Spanish theatre and dance, as well as free film screenings of mainly Argentinian classics on Wednesdays and Thursdays at 5pm. The building is a work of art in its own right. Libertad 815, y Avenida Córdoba, Tribunales (4816 4224/ www.teatrocervantes.gov.ar). Subte D, Tribunales/bus 29, 39, 109. Box office 10am-10pm Wed-Sun. Shows Thu-Sun. Tickets AR$25-$60. No credit cards. Map D5.

Performing Arts

TICKETS AND INFORMATION You can buy tickets at each venue’s boletería (box office), often with cash only, or through Ticketek (5237 7200, www.ticketek.com.ar) or TuEntrada (www.tuentrada.com) for major productions or venues. Credit cards are accepted and booking fees apply. Discounted tickets for plays, musicals, and films are available from Cartelera Baires (Unit 24, Avenida Corrientes 1382, www.cartelerabaires. com) and from Cartelera Lavalle (Lavalle 742, 4322 1559, www. carteleralavalle.com.ar).

Theatre

Teatro Opera Allianz This classic auditorium on bustling Avenida Corrientes is the place to find big-budget musicals. Avenida Corrientes 860, entre Suipacha y Esmeralda, Microcentro (4326 1335/www.teatrooperaallianz. com). Subte B, Carlos Pellegrini or C, Diagonal Norte or D, 9 de Julio/bus 10, 17, 24, 29. Box office 10am-8pm daily. Tickets from AR$100. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C5.

142 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15

FOTO RUTA

Darío Alaya is one of BA’s many circus artists

Teatro del Pueblo Dedicated to bringing national theatre to the public, the focus here is on works by Argentinian playwrights. Avenida Roque Sáenz Peña 943, entre Carlos Pellegrini y Suipacha, Microcentro (4326 3606/www. teatrodelpueblo.org.ar). Subte D, 9 de Julio/bus 10, 17, 140. Box office from 5pm Wed-Sun. Shows varies. Tickets AR$100, students and pensioners AR$70. No credit cards. Map C5.

GONZALO ALIPAZ

Jean Jaurès 852, entre San Luis y Tucumán, Abasto (4961 5092/ www.lacarpinteriateatro.wordpress. com). Subte H, Corrientes/bus 24, 26, 29, 41. Box office 1hr before shows. Shows Wed-Sun. Tickets AR$80$120. No credit cards. Map E3. El Galpón de Guevara El Galpón de Guevara opened in January 2014, and was especially designed to host independent physical theatre, aerial acrobatic and dance shows. Make a stop at the large bright bar for a round of ping-pong or table football prior to the show, before stepping through the curtain into the atmospheric stage area. To get in on the action yourself, try one of the theatre’s workshops, which are taught by renowned actors and directors. Guevara 326, y Santos Dumont, Chacarita (4554 9877/www. galpondeguevara.com). Subte B, Dorrego/bus 71, 90, 127, 140, 151. Box office varies. Shows varies. Tickets AR$120. No credit cards. Map H1.

Amor Eterno at El Galpón de Guevara

Teatro San Martín The programme ranges from cast-iron classics to avant-garde experiments, and the works are staged in a building that’s a hymn to 1970s design. This central theatre also has a cinema showing arthouse films from all over the world. Avenida Corrientes 1530, entre Paraná y Montevideo, Tribunales (0800 333 5254/complejoteatral.gob.ar). Subte B, Uruguay/bus 24, 26, 37, 60, 99, 102. Box office 10am-10pm daily. Shows Wed-Sun. Tickets AR$80-$120. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D4.

SMALLER SPACES

Actors Studio Alongside a varied programme featuring classics and a selection of outrageous original works, this long-running studio in Almagro also runs excellent acting classes. Avenida Díaz Vélez 3842, entre Medrano y Jerónimo Salguero, Almagro (4983 9883/ www.actors-studio.org). Subte A, Castro Barros/bus 5, 8, 19, 36, 128. Box office 1hr before shows Fri-Sun. Shows Sat, Sun. Tickets AR$100. No credit cards. Map E2.

El Camarín de las Musas This multi-purpose venue gets rave reviews for its highbrow productions. The venue offers a constant selection of interesting and innovative theatre performances in intimate spaces. You can also enjoy a meal or drink in the lovely café before the show. Mario Bravo 960, entre Tucumán y Avenida Córdoba, Abasto (4862 0655/ www.elcamarindelasmusas.com.ar). Subte B, Medrano/bus 26, 92, 106, 127, 128, 140, 160, 168. Box office 1hr before shows. Shows varies. Tickets AR$120. No credit cards. Map F3. La Carpintería A small but cosy theatre in Abasto, La Carpintería is a great option for innovative, high quality performances off the main theatre strip. Ever since opening its doors in 2010, this theatre has been attracting an impressive line-up, including big names such as the actor-director marvel, Marcelo Savignone. Arrive early to get tickets and take advantage of the warmly lit, exposed brick café for a glass of wine and a picada.

El Portón de Sánchez A dance studio by day, this venue’s contemporary programme features avant-garde troupes, plus plays that fall at the pricier, polished end of the indie spectrum. Sánchez de Bustamante 1034, y Avenida Córdoba, Abasto (4863 2848/ elportondesanchez.com.ar). Bus 26, 29, 92, 99, 106, 109 . Box office 9am-9pm Mon-Fri; 1hr before show Sat, Sun. Shows Fri-Sun. Tickets AR$80. No credit cards. Map E3. Teatro Ciego The ‘blind theatre’, is more of a sensual experience than a traditional one. Let the company blindfold you, offer you dinner and tempt you to theatre and tango classes in pitch darkness. Zelaya 3006, y Jean Jaurès, Abasto (6379 8596/www.teatrociego.org). Subte B Carlos Gardel/bus 24, 124. Box office from 5pm daily. Shows daily. Tickets AR$120. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E3. Teatro el Cubo Set in the back streets of Abasto, el Cubo is one of the larger independent venues in the city. In the heart of the underground theatre scene on the colourful street of Zelaya, this theatre offers an array of exciting spectacles to feast your eyes upon. Catch anything from sombre, serious plays to outlandish, show-stopping musical performances.

Dance to a different beat

Wind it, crank it, shimmy, twist, twerk or shake it, Buenos Aires has more than just tango up its sleeve to get you on the dance floor. Alternatively, get in on the Caribbean vibe at Cuba Mía (Salta 508, 4382 1465, restaurantecubamia.com). The restaurant-bar offers classes in salsa and sensual bachata, which originates from the Dominican Republic. Live bands, dance performances and mojitos make this the perfect summer spot. Get your fill of Brazilian party beats at Congreso nightclub Maluco Beleza (Sarmiento 1728, 4372 1737, www.malucobelezadisco.com). Wednesdays are for dinner shows, where you can fill up on caipirinhas and feijoada while catching a stellar dance performance. The rest of the week, try your hand at Brazilian dances like the lambada and lambazouk. On Thursdays get swinging at cultural centre Sr Duncan (see p82). Roll back to the 1950s at this shabby-chic mansion tucked away in Almagro. Swing classes start at 9pm, and are followed by live shows, all of which are paid for a la gorra (as in, by dropping a few pesos in a hat). Change pace and get contemporary at the Dance & Move (www.dancemovestudio. com) studio, which caters to all things street. Hip hop, locking and popping, dancehall, contemporary jazz and breakdancing all get a shout-out here. Also shaping up the hip-hop scene are the girls at F.L.O.W atlas wachas, who offer dance classes, performances and BA’s first and only Twerkshop, a body-pumping class on the art of twerking, of course. Check the facebook page for details. Zelaya 3053, y Anchorena, Abasto (4963 2568/www.teatroelcubo.com). Subte B Carlos Calvo/bus 24, 29, 64, 140, 168, 188, 194. Box Office from 5pm Thu-Mon. Shows Thu-Mon. Tickets AR$80-$160. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E3. !Timbre 4 This cutting edge theatre presents works by cult director Claudio Tolcachir, and specialises in experimental plays (many of a provocative socio-political nature). Housed in a lovely casa, Timbre 4 also has occasional productions with English subtitles, great for those whose Spanish is not quite there yet, and a bar offering drinks and snacks. Avenida Boedo 640, entre México y Avenida Independencia, and México 3554, entre Avenida Boedo y Maza, Boedo (4932 4395/www.timbre4.com). Subte E Boedo/bus 2, 56, 115, 126, 128, 160, 165, 180 . Box office from 7pm Thu-Sun. Shows 9pm, 11.30pm Thu-Mon. Tickets AR$120. No credit cards. Map D1.

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Performing Arts

!Usina del Arte This 15,000 sq m cultural centre inside a former power station has a 1,200-seat concert hall and hosts free art exhibitions, as well as many music and dance performances. At weekends (11am and 5pm) there are free tours of this magnificent building. Avenida Don Pedro de Mendoza y Caffarena, La Boca (www.usinadelarte. org). Bus 4, 20, 25, 29, 129, 130, 152, 159, 168, 195. Box office 1hr before shows. Shows varies. Tickets free.

Belisario Club de Cultura Set in the heart of theatre land, this small venue is home to great experimental theatre, as well as regular circus-influenced performances. Avenida Corrientes 1624, entre Rodríguez Peña y Montevideo, Tribunales (4373 3465/www. marcelosavignone.com). Subte B, Callao/bus 24, 26, 109. Box office from 7pm Fri, Sat; from 6.30pm Sun. Shows 9pm, 11pm Fri, Sat; 8pm Sun. Tickets AR$60-$80. No credit cards. Map D4.

NoAvestruz This intimate and cosy space offers a range of dance and theatre performances, shows for kids, films and live music. There’s also a bar and an art gallery and occasional courses on cinema and other artistic pursuits. Humboldt 1857, y Costa Rica, Palermo (4777 6956/www.noavestruz.com.ar). Bus 34, 39, 57, 93, 108, 111, 166. Box office 5-9pm Wed-Sat; 1hr before show Sun. Shows Wed-Sun. Tickets AR$70. No credit cards. Map H3.

Recommended

The truth about tango Rosie Hilder debunks the elusive dance’s most common myths. Illustration by Emiliano Guevara

Tango

‘

Why do people keep nodding at each other?’ ‘Is it true I don’t have to wear heels? And what’s going on with all the miserable faces?’ Such are the questions inexperienced tango dancers might find themselves asking on entering a milonga for the first time. If the elusive art of tango leaves you with more questions than your taxi driver’s monologue, let Time Out help you sort tango fact from fiction. 1 ‘SEEN ONE, SEEN THEM ALL.’ It may take two to tango, but there are at least three ways to glide across the dancefloor. At a tango show (see p147), you’ll see tango escenario. This is the realm of fast fancy footwork, slick choreography and multiple costume changes, and is almost the antithesis of the improvised tango de salón of milongas (see p145). Spinning across the floor at a milonga is far more likely to lead to crushed toes and stern looks than a round of applause. In tango halls the couple’s embrace is close, feet are almost pegged to the floor and the legs do the, well, legwork. The latest movement to emerge, tango nuevo, is popular in modern milongas and consists of an open embrace, frequent changes of direction and a firm disregard for the rules. 2 ‘BUT IT’S SO SEXIST!’ The tango fairytale goes like this: a lonely damsel in killer heels sits on her side of the room longing for prince charming’s cabeceo – a beady stare, chin jut or nod – in her direction. After she accepts with a ladylike nod, her knight in shiny shoes meets her on the dancefloor, holds her close and dictates her every move for the three or four songs that make up a tanda. In reality, the woman is not so passive. Ladies, you can ask a guy to dance by staring at him, and if his cabeceo doesn’t impress, just say no by looking the other way. Many tangueros also consider the dance to be a dialogue between the couple, rather than a simple case of the man leading, but Time Out thinks the man still wears the metaphorical, as well as the literal, trousers. True equality exists at gay milongas (see p146), where men and women switch roles mid-tanda and can approach their desired partner directly – simply asking, ‘Bailás?’ will do.

Tango’s basic eight-step

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3 ‘I’M NOT GLAMOROUS ENOUGH.’ There’s no denying that when danced well, tango has the power to transform the most unlikely

contenders into a pair of demi-gods, but the required dress code largely depends on the style of milonga. At conventional halls, women always show off their assets, with some glitz and sparkle thrown in for good measure, and men wear smart shirts, straight cut trousers and classic tango shoes. If you’re more comfortable in jeans, harem pants, trainers or pumps, take refuge at a modern milonga. Disappointingly, you’re unlikely to see men dancing in fedora hats anywhere other than at a show, but don’t let that put you off buying one, you might just reignite the trend. 4 ‘IF TANGO IS FUN, WHY DOES EVERYONE LOOK MISERABLE?’ Though you’ll struggle to get a smile out of the true tangueros as they concentrate on their steps, it’s not to say they’re not enjoying themselves – most consider the dance to be the absolute height of pleasure. Professional dancers often despair of tourists’ cheesy grins in take-home shots from shows, so aim for a mixture of stern, aloof and passionate if you’re planning on posing. At milongas, solemnity switches to smiles and flirtatious chat after each dance, and between tandas it’s all carefree cavorting as the music changes to jive, swing or Latin beats. 5 ‘I DON’T HAVE A PARTNER SO I CAN’T DANCE TANGO.’ Arriving with a member of the opposite sex is the easiest way to tell the room you’re not available to dance, so fly solo if possible. If you must go with your partner, sit at separate tables unless you only plan to embrace each other. Also remember that there’s a strong sense of community in most tango halls, and new faces (however serious) are unlikely to be called to the floor until someone else has done a test dance. You can get around this problem by hiring a Tango Taxi Dancer (www. tangotaxidancers.com). The service provides an experienced dancer who’ll explain what’s going on in the milonga and twirl you round the dancefloor when no one else will. Don’t panic if this all seems a bit much. The best way to demystify tango is to try it yourself. There are plenty of workshops for beginners, and teachers are usually forgiving. Classes are followed by a práctica, where you can put your best foot forward without fear of reprisal. See the listings for more information on shows, classes and milongas.

The scene

Many a foreigner has arrived in BA and become hooked on the mysterious, highly sensual dance that is the tango. Addicts can usually be identified by a tendency to glide into rooms with their arms outstretched in a tango embrace, a continuous hum of tango rhythms muttered under their breath and a slightly glazed, vampire-esque look when they venture out during the day. Even if you don’t plan on dancing away your whole trip, every visitor to BA should experience Argentina’s famed dance in some form, and the city has something for everyone, with a variety of classes, shows and milongas (social dances) available across the city. Tango guides such as María Lelia Ivancovich (www.marialeliadebsas. com.ar) can help newcomers find their feet in the local scene through personalised tours that include a guided trip to a milonga and a short history lesson. For a private class, plus a visit to a milonga where professional dancers will explain what’s going on before spinning you across the dance floor, try Tango Taxi Dancers (www.tangotaxidancers.com). To sleep, eat and breathe the dance, opt for a stay at a tango hotel – check out Lina’s Tango Guesthouse (Estados Unidos 780, San Telmo, 4361 6817, www.linatango.com), Caserón Porteño (Ciudad de la Paz 344, Colegiales, 4554 6336, www. caseronporteno.com) or Mansión Dandi Royal (Piedras 922, San Telmo, 4307 7623, www.mansiondandiroyal. com), all of which can arrange lessons and visits to milongas.

Classes and information

Where to dance tango

Milongas are the perfect way to get to the heart of tango culture. Everyone is welcome but a certain etiquette must be observed: milongas are not the place to drink too much and try out a few rusty moves. Schedules for milongas often change, so check with the venue before going or pick up a copy of the free Tango Map Guide from any of the venues listed below. Try taking the class beforehand; during the milonga don’t look anyone in the eye unless you are ready to dance with them. Dancefloors are usually packed, so the embrace is very close and fancy footwork and wide sweeps are not particularly welcome. Most milongas include live music or a dance performance later in the night. TRADITIONAL MILONGAS

At these milongas attire is formal and tango etiquette is strictly adhered to. It’s often necessary to reserve a seat and men and women sit on opposite sides of the room. Men usually use the cabeceo, locking eyes with a woman, to request the next dance. El Beso This is a bijou setting for night-time dances and classes with very high standards (not recommended for wobbly, shy beginners), most of them taught by La Academia Tango Milonguero (check www. laacademiatango.com for details).

Saturday night milonga Las Morochas attracts an older crowd, while on Fridays the venue hosts the modern and gay-friendly milonga La Marshall. 1st floor, Riobamba 416, entre Avenida Corrientes y Lavalle, Once (4953 2794). Subte B, Callao/bus 7, 12, 24, 37, 150, 168, 180. Open Classes varies. Milonga 8pm-2am Tue; 6pm-2am Thu; 10.30pm-3.30am Fri, Sat; 10.30pm-4am Sun. Admission AR$50. No credit cards. Map D4. Centro Región Leonesa Excellent milongas are held here in a superb hall boasting one of the best pistas (dancefloors) in the city. Reservations are ideal for the popular Yira Yira event on Fridays. Humberto 1º 1462, entre Sáenz Peña y San José, Constitución (4304 5595). Subte E, San José/bus 39, 126. Open Classes 9-10.30pm Thu, Fri; 3-4.30pm Sat. Milonga 6pm-1am Wed; 9.30pm-4am Thu, Fri; 4.30-11pm Sat. Admission AR$20. No credit cards. Map B3. Club Gricel You can’t beat the atmosphere of this place for some serious tango fun. A regular clientele takes full advantage of the springy dancefloor and attractive lighting. Saturday nights cost AR$40, and if you stick around until 1am, you’ll see the excellent show. La Rioja 1180, entre Humberto 1º y Avenida San Juan, San Cristóbal (4957 7157/www.clubgriceltango.com. ar). Subte E, Urquiza/bus 20, 61, 118, 126. Open Classes 6.30-8pm Mon; 7-8.30pm Tue; 6.30-8pm, 8.30-10pm Fri; 8.30-10.30pm Sat; 5-6pm Sun. Milonga 8pm-4am Mon; 8pm-3am Wed, Thu; 10.30pm-5am Fri; 11pm-4am Sat; 6pm-3am Sun. Admission AR$50. No credit cards. Map C1.

Confitería Ideal This busy spot attracts coffee drinkers during the day, but it also has a full schedule of daily tango classes (see website for details) and comes alive at night as a mainly post-office crowd swings by to dance to a live orchestra in the large space. Particularly good are Thursday night’s Tango Ideal bash and Unitango’s Friday night affairs (www. unitango.com). 1st floor, Suipacha 384, y Avenida Corrientes, Microcentro (4328 7750/ www.confiteriaideal.com). Subte C, Diagonal Norte/bus 5, 6, 7, 9, 10, 24, 29, 39, 60, 67, 129, 140. Open Classes varies, check website. Milonga 3.30-8.30pm Mon; 10pm-2am Tue; 3pm-midnight Wed; 3-8.30pm Thu; 2-8.30pm Fri; 3-8.30pm Sat; 3-9pm Sun. Admission AR$70. No credit cards. Map C5. FREE La Glorieta Held year-round under the bandstand in a Belgrano park, this thoroughly romantic open-air milonga attracts dancers of all standards and ages as well as enchanted observers and dog-walkers. Sunday evenings are particularly popular when the crowd gets dolled up in its finest attire. Barrancas de Belgrano, 11 de Septiembre, entre Sucre y Echeverría, Belgrano (4674 1026). Bus 15, 29, 55, 60, 64. Open Classes 7-8.15pm Mon, Wed; 5-7pm Sat, Sun. Milonga after classes. Admission Classes AR$45. Milonga donation. Salón Canning This large hall hosts a variety of different milongas, which attract a range of people, depending on the night. Particularly popular are Monday, Tuesday and Friday nights’ Parakultural events.

Tango

To look like a real tanguera, get some fishnets, heels and strike a seductive pose

FOTO RUTA

For the blossoming tanguero, there are numerous group lessons across the city, and most teachers speak some English. Milongas are often held after the class, but also watch out for prácticas where you’re free to try out your newly acquired moves without the pressure of following the rules of the milonga. All the milongas listed here have resident teachers and usually offer classes while hundreds of couples offer private – and considerably more expensive – classes for all levels. For complete beginners, classes at La Viruta (see p146) and La Catedral (see p146) are fun and unintimidating ways to learn the basic steps. The excellent Escuela Argentina de Tango (Talcahuano 1052, 4312 4990, www.eatango.org) has locations in Microcentro’s Galerías Pacífico shopping centre and San Telmo, and offers classes with the city’s top teachers all day, every day. For a more contemporary style, tango school DNI (Bulnes 1011, Almagro, 4866 6553, www.dni-tango. com) has young, dynamic teachers, as does El Esquinazo (Gurruchaga 1218, Palermo, 3530 7725). Almagro bar Sr Duncan (see p82) offers free beginners’ classes at 9pm on Tuesday

evenings. These are followed by an atmospheric milonga accompanied by a live tango singer and musicians.

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ROSIE HILDER

Taco Teco (see p146)

Scalabrini Ortiz 1331, entre Gorriti y Cabrera, Palermo (4832 6753/www. parakultural.com.ar). Bus 15, 39, 55, 110, 140, 160, 168. Open Classes 7-9pm, 9-11pm Mon, Tue, Fri; 2.30-4pm Wed; 8.30-10pm Thu; 8-9.30pm, 9.30-11pm Sat; 4-11pm Sun. Milonga after classes. Admission AR$60. No credit cards. Map G2.

Sunday’s Maldita (damned) milongas is the fantastic live music from a young outfit called Orquesta Típica El Afronte. The musicians, including a row of bandoneonistas stretching and squeezing with passion, a wild pianist and a by-turns heartbroken and enraged vocalist, make this an unforgettable experience. On Tuesday nights, gender rules are turned on their MODERN MILONGAS head at gay milonga Tango Queer. These milongas generally attract a Perú 571, entre Venezuela y México, younger crowd, have a more sociable San Telmo (4331 1518/www. atmosphere and are a good place to try buenosayresclub.com). Bus 10, 22, 24, out more contemporary moves. 26, 28, 29, 86. Open Classes The dress code is not rigid 9-10.30pm Mon, Wed, Sun; and you’ll even see 8.30-10pm Tue. Milonga women dancing in flat 10.30pm-2am Mon, shoes. In addition to the Wed, Sun; 10pm-2am What’s on when places listed here, other Tue. Admission For a comprehensive popular modern AR$60. No credit and up-to-date list of all milongas for more cards. Map B4. the milongas in the city, serious dancers include download the EnglishDNI (see p145, 4-7pm !La Catedral language Hoy Milonga Sat), Milonga 10 The atmosphere at this app. (Loyola 828, mobile 15 bohemian venue is 4066 5831, www.milonga10. somewhere between post-punk/ com, 10pm-3am Tue, 10pm-4am neo-goth and old-style circus/music Sat) and the Milonga de la hall. There are good beginners’ classes Misteriosa (Humberto 1º 2758, www. on Tuesdays and folkloric classes on misteriosabuenosaires.net, 10.30pmSundays. Even if you’re not a dancer, 3am Wed). The latter has a wonderful it’s worth going to this cavernous space live tango orchestra. Gay-friendly for a pitcher of sangria, a veggie snack milonga La Marshall (Riobamba 416, or a fernet and coke at the helter4300 3487, www.lamarshallmilonga. skelter bar. com.ar), held at El Beso (see p145), is Sarmiento 4006, y Medrano, Almagro very welcoming and has no strict rules (mobile 15 5325 1630/www. about who dances with whom. lacatedralclub.com). Subte B, Medrano/ bus 24, 124. Open Classes 8-9.30pm; Buenos Ayres Club 9.30-11pm daily. Milonga after classes. The great thing about Monday’s Admission AR$50. No credit Bendita (blessed) and Wednesday and cards. Map E2.

Tango

TOP TIP!

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Club La Independencia This traditional tango venue is also home to Thursday night’s Milonga en Orsay, which attracts a young crowd who come to drink, dance and listen to the live orchestra. Avenida Independencia 572, entre Bolívar y Perú, San Telmo (4931 7977). Subte C, Independencia/bus 10, 17, 29, 93. Open Classes 9.30pm Sat. Milonga 10pm Tue, Fri; 11pm Sat; 9pm Sun. Admission Classes AR$50. Milonga AR$40. No credit cards. Map B4. Oliverio Girondo Espacio Cultural This cool tango hall in Villa Crespo has various milongas and musical events; particularly popular is Friday night’s La María. Warm up at the class and stick around for the milonga and live music by dropping a few pesos in the gorra (hat). The Oliverio Girondo really has got it all: buena onda, bargain prices and tasty home-made bar snacks to nibble on whil practising your moves. Just watch out for the tiled dancefloor – it’s a bit slippery. Vera 574, y Malabia, Villa Crespo (mobile 15 6202 9812/www.facebook. com/oliveriogirondoespaciodearte). Subte B, Malabia/bus 55, 65, 76, 92, 106, 109. Open Classes 8-10pm Wed; 9.30-10.30pm Thu; 9-10.30pm Fri. Milonga after classes. Admission Classes AR$40. Milonga by donation. No credit cards. Map G1. Villa Malcolm Start with a class to prepare yourself for dancing into the early hours with

the international crowd at this atmospheric old hall. It packs out for Sunday night’s Viva la Pepa, Monday night’s El Motivo, Fruto Dulce on Wednesdays and Saturdays, and Friday night’s Zum, all of which are modern milongas. Avenida Córdoba 5064, entre Thames y Serrano, Villa Crespo (4772 9796). Bus 34, 39, 55. Open Classes 7-10pm Sun, Mon; 9-10.30pm Wed-Sat. Milonga after classes. Admission AR$40-$50. No credit cards. Map G2. !La Viruta These popular milonga nights take place in a homely, basement-level community centre. Dancers of all ages and abilities come together for tango, and the milonga gets going around 1am after the crowd has warmed up on the dancefloor with a sprinkling of salsa and rock ’n’ roll jiving. A full schedule of back-to-back classes ensures that this place is always busy. Go on a Saturday to catch the show at 2am that’s included in the ticket price. Armenia 1366, entre Cabrera y Niceto Vega, Palermo (4774 6357/ www.lavirutatango.com). Bus 15, 34, 39, 55, 168. Open Classes varies, check website. Milonga midnight-4am Tue-Sun. Admission AR$60. No credit cards. Map G2.

Where to hear tango There are plenty of places to enjoy tango in its aural form. You can get a

free taste of tango music from the bandoneón-wielding buskers on the streets of San Telmo, or at a number of neighbourhood bars where tango is returning to its gritty roots, most notably at the historic Lo de Roberto (see p82), where fervent crooners of all ages perform to a young, bohemian crowd. ND/Ateneo (see p139) is a serious venue for tango music, as is the Centro Cultural Torquato Tasso (Defensa 1575, San Telmo, 4307 6506, www.torquatotasso.com.ar). Passionate and skilful tango musicians can work up as much sweat as their dancing counterparts: look out for bandoneónplaying Piazzolla disciple Rodolfo Mederos; violinist Pablo Agri; and virtuoso pianists Pablo Ziegler and Sonia Possetti; as well as the fun thundering, rock-inspired tango of Orquesta Típica Fernández Fierro (www.fernandezfierro.com). Outside the ever-evolving mainstream, there’s a more experimental scene led by Latino fusioneers La Chicana. Also keep an ear out for live performances by local electronica acts Bajofondo, Otros Aires, Narcotango and Tanghetto, who have given tango a bass groove.

Where to watch tango

Esquina Homero Manzi The street corner where this establishment sits was immortalised in Homero Manzi’s tango ‘Sur’, and shows here attempt to recreate some of the atmosphere of bygone days in this traditional barrio. An energetic quintet is accompanied by alternating dancers and singers who belt out classics like ‘Malena’ and ‘El día que me quieras’. Avenida San Juan 3601, y Avenida Boedo, Boedo (4957 8488/www.

Tango dancers abound on the streets of San Telmo

Recommended Dancing in the dark

Rojo Tango For the best tango show your money can buy, it doesn’t get any more deluxe than Rojo Tango. You’ll be greeted with a glass of champagne before an excellent three-course meal that includes the likes of beef carpaccio, loin of veal with potato tatin and dulce de leche crème brûlée. Granted, it doesn’t really break any rules, but that’s not what you came for anyway. Instead, Rojo is polished and flamboyant; in a word, it’s Faena. Faena Hotel Buenos Aires, Martha Salotti 445, Puerto Madero (4952 4111/www.rojotango.com). Bus 2, 4, 20, 64, 129. Open 8.30pm-midnight daily. Dinner 8.30pm. Show 10pm. Tickets US$185; US$250 with dinner. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B5. Sabor a Tango This slick show is staged in the magnificent former Palazzo Rossini, Argentina’s first opera house, which dates all the way back to 1878. Flamboyant tango choreography is interspersed with performances by drum-wielding gauchos and an anguished Evita crooning ‘Don’t Cry for Me Argentina’ from a balcony. The three-course dinner includes all-night wine refills. Juan Domingo Perón 2535, entre Larrea y Paso, Once (4953 8700/ www.saboratango.com.ar). Subte A, Alberti/bus 24, 95. Open from 8.30pm daily. Dinner 8.30pm. Show 10pm. Tickets US$45-$90; US$120 with dinner. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D3.

Closing your eyes on the dance floor is common in milongas, but a tango class in the pitch black at Teatro Ciego (see p143) takes the concept to a whole new level. While at first it may feel like the blind are leading the blind, put your trust in highly skilled teachers Pablo and Giuliana. Soon enough you’ll forget about the odd crushed toe or stab in the dark with a high heel, and will appreciate truly being able to dance with no one watching.

manages to breaks all the rules. Firstly, there’s an actual storyline, secondly, the show is located off the tourist trail in a beautiful arty theatre in Almagro. As for the show itself: men dance in high heels and sequined hot pants, while a woman is so distraught with her small breasts she goes under the plastic surgeon’s knife, and there are the usual doses of tango’s passion, jealousy, rage and err... maté. It doesn’t end there either. Not only do ticket holders get two-for-one drinks after the show, an up-for-it crowd dances in the milonga until the early hours. Maza 177, y Avenida Hipólito Yrigoyen, Almagro (4862 1758/www. tempotango.com). Subte A, Loria/bus 103, 165, 180. Open 12.30am Sat. Dinner 8.30pm. Show 10pm. Tickets AR$120; AR$80 students and pensioners. No credit cards.

Where to shop

Taco Teco The Rocky Horror Show meets tango at this professional, racy show which

FOTO RUTA

Café de los Angelitos Stained glass and a gold and powder blue interior give this historic coffee house an ethereal ambience in keeping with its name. The celestial enchantment continues with freeflowing wine, a three-course dinner and a spectacular tango show that will leave you feeling nostalgic for belle epoque elegance. Avenida Rivadavia 2100, y Junín, Once (4952 2320/www.cafedelosangelitos. com). Subte A, Pasco/bus 12, 60, 150. Open 8am-1am Mon-Fri; 8am-2am Sat, Sun. Dinner 8.30pm. Show 10.15pm. Tickets US$90; US$130 with dinner. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D3.

La Esquina de Carlos Gardel OK, so it’s a very touristy show. But the venue is grand, the dancers are sexy and the dinner involves big steaks and blood-red wine. Pasaje Carlos Gardel 3200, y Anchorena, Abasto (4867 6363/ www.esquinacarlosgardel.com.ar). Subte B, Carlos Gardel/bus 24, 29, 168, 180. Open 8.30pm-midnight daily. Dinner 9pm. Show 10.30pm. Tickets US$96; US$140 with dinner. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E3.

esquinahomeromanzi.com.ar). Subte E, Boedo/bus 20, 88, 91. Open 9-11.45pm daily. Dinner 9pm. Show 10pm. Tickets AR$300; AR$800 with dinner. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D1.

Buenos Aires is an excellent place to bag a gorgeous (and affordable) pair of killer tango heels. Some of Time Out’s favourite shoe shops for women are Comme Il Faut (see p102), Alanis (Bulnes 1849), Taconeando (Avenida Córdoba 4030, 2063 9671, www. taconeandoshoes.com.ar), Alma (Estados Unidos 652, 4307 5153, www. almabuenosaires.com) and NeoTango (Sarmiento 1938, 4951 8694, www. neotangoshoes.com). As well as making super-comfortable heels, 2x4alpie (Scalabrini Ortiz, white bell, 4831 6522, www.2x4alpie.com) does a hip range of flat, trainer-style shoes for both men and women. Flabella (Suipacha 263, 4322 6036, www.flabella.com) is a fairly ordinary looking shop featuring a fine collection of well-priced footwear. The extra service is what sets it apart, as the store can make shoes by hand in a couple of weeks to suit your colour, fabric and heel height specifications. For men’s shoes, swing by DNI (see p145) or Loló (Tomás de Anchorena 607, 4962 3860, www.facebook.com/ lolotangoshoes), which offers a handsome selection of impeccably constructed men’s shoes. For clothes, try Tango Moda (Unit 4, 1st floor, Balcarce 961, 4300 3293, www. tangomoda.com.ar). Monserrat’s Segunda Generación (Alsina 1569, 4382 2582, www.2gen.com.ar) is a well-regarded supplier of both traditional and modern tango clothing.

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Tango

The most authentic and affordable place to watch tango is at a milonga, where there is usually a performance from invited professional dancers. Two of BA’s most atmospheric milongas are the free, outdoor Milonga del Indio, held every Sunday evening in San Telmo’s Plaza Dorrego, and Belgrano’s La Glorieta (see p145). If you’re looking for a glitzier introduction to the genre, then a tango dinner show – aimed squarely at the tourist dollar, some do not accept local currency – is certainly entertaining. Splendid old Café Tortoni (see p25) and Confitería Ideal (see p145) are on the more affordable side of things and are highly atmospheric, as is the Centro Cultural Borges (see p124), which has a small theatre in which some of BA’s best tango shows are held every week. To catch street tango for the price of a tip dropped into a hat, head for calle Florida most afternoons, Caminito in La Boca during the day or San Telmo on Sundays.

Complejo Tango A huge performance space deep inside an old house is the venue for this show filled with tango passion and complete with an edgy knife-fight dance by a lone hombre, scuffles in a bordello and an all-round impressively choreographed performance. This is one tanguería where the dinner is well worthwhile, and don’t miss the brilliant class beforehand. Avenida Belgrano 2608, y Saavedra, San Cristóbal (4941 1119/www. complejotango.com.ar). Subte H, Venezuela/bus 56, 101. Open from 7.30pm daily. Class 7.30pm. Dinner 8.30pm. Show 10pm. Tickets US$55 show & class; US$85-$120 show, dinner and class; US$200 show, dinner, class and VIP attention. 20% discount online. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D2.

Hotels Hotels

150

Apart-hotels

160

Hostels

161

Telos (love hotels)

162

Hotel index

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Photograph: Ultra Hotel

The essentials

The ever-rising black market dollar rate means that those in possession of greenbacks may find themselves able to afford more luxurious surroundings than they previously imagined. Many hotels also have discounts for customers paying in cash, so be sure to enquire before parting with your plastic. What are the options? That all depends on what you’re after. From French palaces like the Mansión at the Four Seasons Hotel (see p154), tango academies such as Mansión Dandi Royal (see p145) to the recently rennovated Arroyo Hotel (see p158), there’s no doubt you’ll find something to suit your needs. If you’d like the independence of your own apartment, there are a myriad of options for short-term rentals (see p160), while those on a budget can stay at one of BA’s hostels. The latter range from hardcore party hangouts to relaxed retreats (see p161).

Hotels

Home Hotel’s cocktails are better than anything at the minibar

Hotel crashing Emily Jensen shows you how to get a slice of BA’s finest hotels, without shelling out for a room

on’t be fooled by an imposing air of exclusivity – BA’s luxury hotels have plenty of great options for non-guests. DINING A longstanding Buenos Aires institution, Tomo I (see p30), at the stunning Hotel Panamericano, was recently ranked number 18 on Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurant List. The ‘gourmet porteño’ cuisine offers a mix of traditional plates like Argentinian beef, as well as exotic meats like ostrich and quail. The intimate setting at boutique hotel Casa Umare (see p160) makes for the perfect backdrop to head chef Darío Gualtieri’s inspired plates. Opt for a multi-course meal to taste dishes that range from classic Patagonian lamb, to modern beetrootmarshmallow with goat’s cheese foam, and don't forget to order a glass of wine from the impressive cellar. The latest creation of Martín Molteni, head chef at Pura Tierra (see p65), Marieta (Cerrito 22, 4383 3722, www.marietarestaurant.com.ar), at the soon-to-open Le Dome Hotel, is the newest restaurant on the hotel dining scene. Marieta’s ever-changing menu is inspired by what’s available at the local market. For the chicest summer asado around, go to Nuestro Secreto at the Four Seasons Hotel (see p154). The ‘secret’ restaurant is hidden in the hotel’s garden, but the star of the

show is the open-fire barbecue, which uses the traditional gaucho method of hanging the meat over the flames. You also can’t go wrong with the hotel’s other restaurant, Elena (see p44). DRINKING No longer the domain of stuffy businessmen, luxury hotel bars are ramping up the style factor to attract new audiences. The Four Seasons Hotel is leading the way with its polo-inspired Pony Line Bar (see p74), which serves artisanal beer and creative cocktail concoctions. The stylish Alvear Art Hotel (see right) hired no less than star bartender Tato Giovannoni to design the menu for its Artesano Bar. Drinks like the Sarmiento Coctel – a mix of vodka, Hesperidina, grape juice and basil – get their names from Argentina’s past political leaders. For a further retreat to the past, head to the old school Plaza Bar at Retiro’s classic Plaza Hotel Buenos Aires (see p152). When a balmy summer night calls for rooftop drinking, the downtown Hotel Pulitzer (Maipú 907, www. hotelpulitzer.com.ar) has the perfect answer. Located on the 13th floor terrace, the fittingly named Sky Bar provides 360-degree views of BA. BRUNCHING The Fierro Hotel (see p156) recently welcomed Irishman Edward Holloway as its new head chef, meaning a Full

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Irish Breakfast is now part of the brunch menu, which also includes croissants and scones straight out of the oven, home-made yoghurt and granola, as well as freshly-squeezed fruit and vegetable juices. Sunday brunch at Home Hotel (see p156) comes with all the classics, such as huevos rancheros and eggs Benedict, which go great with a bubbly mimosa from the swanky bar. For the most elegant of Sunday brunches, nothing can top L’Orangerie at the Alvear Palace Hotel (see p154). The stunning tearoom hosts brunch every Sunday, and for AR$680 you get unlimited access to the buffet. The price may sound steep, but between the exquisite petit fours and fresh seafood – not to mention the unlimited bubbly – it’s worth treating yourself. RELAXING There’s no better place to make a splash than at a hotel pool. Hip Palermo spot Vitrum Hotel (see p160) recently upped its luxury factor with the addition of a spa, outfitted with a gym, pool, sauna and massage room. The Spa Castelar at the downtown Castelar Hotel & Spa (see p152) offers an around the world luxury experience. Visit the Turkish spa, a semi-dry steam bath to remove toxins, the Finnish spa, a wet sauna infused with eucalyptus, or have a Scottish shower, a therapeutic water-based massage to improve circulation. If extravagance is the only way to go, the Ahin Wellness & Spa at the Park Hyatt Buenos Aires (see p154) is your best bet. Spa packages like the aromatherapy or detoxifying mud treatment may cost upwards of a thousand pesos, but if you’ve been sleeping at hostels for weeks on end, who’s to say you haven’t earned it?

PRICES, BOOKINGS AND SERVICES The hotels reviewed below are divided by area. We have noted price categories by using one to four dollar signs to represent the price of a double room, as follows: Deluxe $$$$, over US$350/ AR$2950 for a double; High-end $$$, US$200-$350/AR$1680-$2950; Moderate $$, US$100-$200/AR$850$1680; Budget $, US$50-$100/ AR$420-$850. Turn to pages 160-162 for the apart-hotels, hostels and telos (love hotels) sections. The prices in this chapter – given in US dollars – are the high season rates for the cheapest double room as quoted to us by hotels, and include VAT (called ‘IVA’ and charged at 21 per cent) and breakfast, though it’s best to check what’s included when you reserve. HOW TO USE THE LISTINGS This section brings together our pick of the city’s hotels. ! denotes a hotel that we would particularly recommend. A signals a hotel whose bar is worth visiting, where you are welcome for a drink whether or not you are a guest. D means free Wi-Fi for guests. NEW denotes a hotel that has opened in the last six months or so.

The Centre HIGH-END

Alvear Art Hotel With its gleaming marble floors, high ceilings and muted colours, the luminous lobby sets the scene for whats to come. The Art Hotel offers the same luxury as the Alvear Palace Hotel (see p154); the two penthouse suites on the 15th floor are the pick of the crop, but the remaining 137 rooms include stunning marble jacuzzis and Nespresso machines. BA’s top mixologist Tato Giovannoni designed the drinks menu, while the roof holds a spa and heated pool. Suipacha 1036, y Avenida Santa Fe, Retiro (4114 3400/www.alvearart.com).

Subte C, San Martín/bus 10, 15, 17, 26, 39, 60, 70, 99, 100, 106, 141. Rates $$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. DA Casa Calma Offset your carbon guilt with a stay at this eco-friendly hotel, complete with bamboo bicycles for guest use and double-glazed windows that shut out the elements and city noise. The bright, spacious rooms have a Scandinavian air, and there has been no skimping on luxury at the expense of planet-saving. Deluxe suites come with a mini sauna, four-jet showers and all rooms have jacuzzis large enough to bathe a harem. The ‘calm house’ delivers serenity through small touches: yoga mats in rooms, balconies draped with vines and healthy, hearty breakfasts served straight to your bed. Suipacha 1015, y Marcelo T de Alvear, Retiro (4312 5000/www.casacalma hotel.com). Subte C, San Martín/bus 59, 61. Rates $$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. D MODERATE

Plaza Hotel Buenos Aires If grand and traditional suits you better than boutique, this might be the place for you. The Plaza Hotel BA celebrated its centenary in 2009, and the entire establishment simply oozes old-world charm. The Plaza Bar is a glorious, Bauhaus-esque design treat, while the Plaza Grill is reminiscent of the banquet hall of an AustroHungarian count, with a colonial twist – note the fabulous velvet mechanical fans. The hotel’s location, overlooking Plaza San Martín, is one of the best in the city, and amenities include a fine fitness centre and a leafy terrace pool. Florida 1005, y Marcelo T de Alvear, Retiro (4318 3069/www.plazahotelba. com). Subte C, San Martín/bus 5, 6, 7, 9, 20, 23, 70, 75, 93, 111, 115, 130, 132, 143, 150. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. D A Rooney’s Boutique Hotel This lovely boutique hotel, just a stone’s throw from the Obelisco, has a literary past, as do so many places in BA: it was once the residence of the Argentinian writer and poet Leopoldo Lugones. Today, the 14 rooms and suites still have beautiful original wood floors, gilded mirrors, high ceilings and lovely chandeliers. Designer Paula Piatti reworked the original style with a palette of cream and soft green to create a calm downtown haven in a busy neighbourhood filled with theatres and tango dancehalls. Guests have access to a lounge bar, a café and a tango patio, where lessons are held three nights a week. Activities and tours can be arranged for guests as part of a package deal. Sarmiento 1775, y Avenida Callao, Tribunales (5252 5060/www. rooneysboutiquehotel.com). Subte B, Callao/bus 5, 6, 12, 124, 146, 150. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D4. D

Hotels

Castelar Hotel & Spa In business since 1929, this hotel deftly combines period atmosphere and modern amenities. The integrity of the original design is intact – one of the rooms even doubles as a museum to the memory of the renowned Spanish poet and playwright Federico García Lorca, who spent a year in exile living at the Castelar. Some of the interior rooms have limited light and are a tad melancholic, which is fine for an exiled poet, perhaps; other guests may prefer one of the rooms overlooking the tree-lined Avenida de Mayo. Meanwhile, there’s a fine Turkish spa in the basement, with steam rooms, a sauna and massage facilities for men and women. Open to non-residents too, this is one of BA’s more reasonably priced spas. Avenida de Mayo 1152, entre Salta y Lima, Monserrat (4383 5000/www. castelarhotel.com.ar). Subte A, Lima/

bus 2, 5, 8, 10, 17, 39, 60, 64, 67, 105, 129. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C4. DA

Esplendor Plaza Francia (see p156)

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San Telmo and south of the centre MODERATE

Patios de San Telmo If San Telmo is romantic, bohemian and steeped in history, then this restored conventillo (tenement-style structure) has done its barrio proud. The poor immigrant families who crammed into this very building in the 19th century would be dazzled by its latest incarnation. Light streams through high windows into luxurious suites; a series of palatial tiled patios ensures there’s space in spades and then some; and Baroque motifs are paired with contemporary elegance for a result that’s pure sophistication. The architect owners have topped off their three-storey stunner with a sleek rooftop sundeck and swimming pool, and the ground-floor café won’t cause offence to coeliacs or vegans. Chacabuco 752, entre Avenida Independencia y Chile, San Telmo (4307 0480/www.patiosdesantelmo. com.ar). Subte C, Independencia/bus 10, 17, 24, 86, 129. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. D San Telmo Luxury Suites Once through the gorgeous doors you’d never guess bustling Plaza Dorrego was just a few blocks away. But prime location and tranquillity aren’t this hotel’s only charms. This beautifully restored antique home dates back to 1867: original wood beams, floor tiles and a chandelier rescued from a Jesuit church take you back to a bygone era, while the modern decor provides comfort and style. All 12 luxury rooms have a living area and mezzanine level and are kitted out with Philippe Starck lights and mirrors, Nespresso machines, iPod docks and original artwork. Before exploring BA’s most artistic and charming barrio, head to the leafy roof terrace and admire the

view, a glass of wine in hand. The kind staff will be happy to help with restaurant recommendations. Chile 437, entre Bolívar y Defensa, San Telmo (4343 1777/www. santelmoluxury.com). Bus 10, 17, 29, 62, 64, 70, 74, 152. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map A4. D BUDGET

Hotel Babel Once home to a multinational community of late 19th-century immigrant families, this renovated conventillo-style house continues to welcome visitors from all parts of the globe, maintaining the tradition of a hodge-podge of languages that inspired the hotel’s name. Located within walking distance of Plaza Dorrego, the intimate lodging has all the charm and personalised attention of a guesthouse. Nine air-conditioned rooms surround a small patio and are compact and pared-down. Flat-screen televisions and chic bathroom suites add a touch of sophistication, and in the modest bar and lounge area you can browse an eclectic selection of books or contemplate the artwork on sale, while the obliging staff prepare your tipple of choice. Balcarce 946, entre Estados Unidos y Carlos Calvo, San Telmo (4300 8300/ www.hotelbabel.com.ar). Bus 10, 24, 29, 74, 195. Rates $ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. D Monserrat Apart Hotel Sandwiched between the centre and San Telmo, this hotel offers easy access to many of the city’s top landmarks. Granted, every room has a microwave, but despite its name, this is more of a hotel than an apart-hotel. Amenities include plasma screens, free Wi-Fi, comfy beds with crisp white sheets and a modern red and white decor. But what sets the hotel apart is the spa on the top floor. Book a massage with Dolores before trying out the heated indoor pool, jacuzzi and steam room. The hotel’s tapas bar with a leafy

Avenida Alvear 1891, entre Avenida Callao y Ayacucho (4808 2100/www. alvearpalace.com). Bus 67, 93, 130. Rates $$$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5. DA

Hub Porteño (see p154)

courtyard is another charming feature. Salta 560, y Venezuela, Monserrat (4124 7500/www.hotelmonserratba. com). Subte C, Independencia/bus 2, 10, 39, 100, 103. Rates $ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C4. D

Hotels

Posada Gotan The traveller who favours a bohemian atmosphere will love Posada Gotan, a cosy bed and breakfast in Boedo, a barrio that has yet to be overrun with tourists. A typical neighbourhood casa chorizo, the house had been left in ruins until owners Thibaud and Gabriela blessed it with a full restoration. They lend a personal touch to every aspect of the business, from recommendations on the best spots in Boedo and tips on how to navigate the city, right down to a breakfast spread that includes bread baked by Thibaud and home-made yoghurt. The beautiful house also exhibits paintings by local artists and hosts the occasional afternoon tea. Sánchez de Loria 1618, y Pavón, Boedo (4912 3807/www.posadagotan. com). Subte E, Urquiza/bus 4, 96, 127, 181, 195. Rates $ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V (only through PayPal). Map C1. D

Puerto Madero DELUXE

Faena Hotel Buenos Aires There really is nowhere like the uniquely ostentatious Faena Hotel Buenos Aires. If you are looking for a truly romantic and memorable getaway, the Faena experience is the one to choose. Designed by the one and only Philippe Starck, the hotel is sensual, sexy and sleek with exotic reds and contemporary whites and is housed inside the shell of a disused red-brick grain silo. The food at the El Bistro restaurant is exquisite, with a marvellously modern tasting menu,

while El Mercado (see p44) serves more traditional but equally delicious Argentinian food. Decorative motifs include gashes of cut red glass in antique bohemian style, also on sale in the boutique shop, which is open to mere mortals too, as are the Library Lounge (see p74), the lovely pool bar, the cabaret theatre and the spa. For information on Faena’s tango shows, see page 147. Martha Salotti 445, Dique 2, Puerto Madero (4010 9000/www.faena.com). Subte B, LN Alem/bus 2, 61, 62, 64, 103, 143, 152. Rates $$$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B5. DA HIGH-END

Hotel Madero This hotel is aimed at business travellers, but don’t let that put you off. This chic and well-located 197-room lodgings has plenty to offer couples and families too, including a rooftop pool and the popular open-plan Red Restó & Lounge. In fact, the sleek restaurant’s loyal following of local customers is proof that this is more than just another bland business hotel. Other draws include the White Bar – which specialises in healthy and fresh fruit juices – a well-equipped spa and health club, a heated indoor pool, and a massage room and solarium. The upper floors afford stunning views of downtown Buenos Aires and the rooms are tastefully decorated. Rosario Vera Peñaloza 360, Dique 2, Puerto Madero (5776 7777/www. hotelmadero.com). Subte B, LN Alem/ bus 4, 8, 20, 152. Rates $$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B5. DA

Recoleta DELUXE

Algodon Mansion When only gilded ceilings and your own private butler will do, this sumptuous hotel delivers all the goods

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you have ever wanted. Tucked away on a quiet Recoleta street, just a few steps from the exclusive emporiums on Avenida Alvear, this 1912 belle époque mansion has ten impeccablystyled suites, each of which comes with a palatial bed and opulent bathroom. The teak-decked roof terrace boasts an inviting pool, open-air lounge and bijou bar. The hotel’s spa, cognac bar and James Bond-worthy Algodon Wine Bar restaurant complete the Algodon Mansion’s decadent package. Montevideo 1647, entre Guido y Quintana (3530 7777/www. algodonmansion.com). Bus 17, 39, 59, 60, 67, 100. Rates $$$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5. DA

Four Seasons Hotel If you are looking for star-worthy lodgings, the Four Seasons will definitely not disappoint. With a dazzling reputation (Madonna, Shakira and Bono are all known to have been guests of the hotel), this 12-storey monument to taste and elegance boasts an immaculate garden, complete with an outdoor pool. The oriental-style spa provides tranquillity in a bottle and a masseur’s touch, and the 27 suites are light-drenched, spacious gems. Set apart from the main hotel is the historic La Mansión. This belle époque jewel looks and smells of old-world grandeur, with four gold-leafed reception rooms, seven luxurious suites and one extremely imposing staircase. It can be rented by the suite, by the floor or (for A-list one-namers) by the house-load. There’s also the wonderful Elena restaurant (see p44), where you can enjoy Sunday brunch, and the Pony Line Bar (see p74). Posadas 1086, y Cerrito (4321 1200/ www.fourseasons.com). Bus 17, 67, 70, 93, 100, 106, 124, 130, 152. Rates $$$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. DA

Hub Porteño The well-connected owner of 11-room boutique hotel Hub Porteño makes it his mission to personalise each guest’s stay. Choose from a host of ‘miniexperiences’: how about a tour of BA’s most exclusive boutiques with your very own personal shopper and chauffeur? Or a tango-tastic day of workshops and midnight milongas? As for the hotel itself, it’s clear from the moment you walk through the opulent marble entrance that no expense has been spared: pictures from Amalia Alvear Palace Hotel Fortabat’s private collection hang on During Argentina’s golden age, the the walls and every room is adorned expression ‘as rich as an Argentinian’ with antique furniture, a Nespresso was shorthand in Europe for machine and an iPad. The leafy roof ostentatious wealth. The economic terrace and gourmet restaurant situation might be a little more Tarquino (see p44) complete complex these days, but a very pretty picture. the sumptuous Alvear Rodríguez Peña 1967, still reeks of money and A slice of luxury entre Avenida Alvear y old-school class. This Want to enjoy hotel Posadas (3220 6600/ hotel fills half a block of comforts without staying www.hubporteno.com). the lavish Avenida the night? Check out the Bus 10, 37, 60, 62, Alvear, and its 192 rooms hotel feature on page 102. Rates $$$$ 150. are an ocean of opulence double. Credit AmEx, in rich burgundies, with MC, V. Map E5. DA antique French furniture and lashings of space. The lobby is a Park Hyatt Buenos Aires cathedral to power and riches, with Contradictory as it might seem, gracious staff who never make you feel opulence and minimalism are the like an imposter in paradise, even if design imperatives at one of the city’s you patently are one. Among the most luxurious places of rest. The hotel’s bars and restaurants are two of entrance to the hotel is a portrait of the city’s most illustrious dining neoclassical columns, marble floors establishments. A buffet lunch or a and cast-iron gates, while the rooms high tea in the spectacular L’Orangerie themselves speak to a 21st-century is the best way for non-guests to soak sensibility. The hotel boasts a vinoteca up the hotel’s ambience, while La with over 3,000 bottles of Argentinian Bourgogne restaurant is a gastronomic wines (including some of the best legend here in the city once known as malbecs ever poured), a cheese room (that’s right: a cheese room) and three the Paris of South America.

TOP TIP!

restaurants. By day, succumb to the delights of the Ahin Wellness Spa and its 25-metre pool. By night, enjoy a spot of al fresco dining on the terraces, before retiring to the Oak Bar, where a fire warms a room decked out in antique wooden panels and leather armchairs in the style of a posh gentlemen’s club. Avenida Alvear 1661, entre Montevideo y Rodríguez Peña (5171 1234/www.buenosaires.park.hyatt.com). Bus 17, 60, 61, 67, 93, 124, 152. Rates $$$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D4.DA HIGH END

Mio Buenos Aires Owned by the Catena clan – Argentina’s most famous family of winegrowers – this Recoleta hotel is, unsurprisingly, filled with viticultural touches. Both wine buffs and interior design fanatics will appreciate the gorgeous French oak barrel doors, the champagne dispenser and fine selection of wines in every room, as well as the muted, earthy colours of the hotel decor. The modern rooms are all equipped with Nespresso machines, iPod docks and balconies, and some have a living area, while the bathrooms contain sweet-smelling L’Occitane products. There’s a spa and pool and if you opt for one of the terrace suites, you get your very own outdoor jacuzzi. Avenida Quintana 465, y Ayacucho (5295 8500/www.miobuenosaires.com). Bus 10, 37, 60, 62, 102, 110, 130. Rates $$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5. DA MODERATE

Esplendor Plaza Francia Nestled among Recoleta’s finest greenery, this stylish and elegant hotel has 49 rooms with comfortable beds and contemporary comforts. Ask for a front-facing room for stunning views of the park, or even better, a top floor suite with picture-perfect views of the Río de la Plata and northern suburbs. The Esplendor also boasts one of best buffet breakfasts in the city; fresh fruit, muesli, scrambled eggs and pretty much anything else you can think of are all on offer. Just the thing to prepare you for a day’s sightseeing in the nearby area. Eduardo Schiaffino 2189, y Avenida del Libertador (4807 7400/www. esplendorplazafrancia.com). Bus 61, 62, 92, 110. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C5.D Other locations San Martín 780, Microcentro (5256 8800); Guatemala 4931, Palermo (5217 5700); Fitz Roy 2172, Palermo (4772 7070).

Palermo HIGH-END

Fierro Hotel Fierro Hotel has all the amenities you’d expect from a five-star hotel (with the same mattresses as BA’s Hyatt to prove

Hotels

Design Suites & Towers The lobby sets the tone for the hip and seemingly ever-expanding mini chain Design Suites. It has the communal, relaxed ambiance of a backpacker’s hostel – one frequented by wealthy young hipsters. The well-lit, minimalist

suites come in three sizes: standard, for one or two people, and larger suites for up to four (five if agreed in advance). Booking a room also gets you access to a fitness centre around the corner. At night, eat at the hotel’s sophisticated restaurant, open to the public, which boasts a great wine selection and an appealing menu. Marcelo T de Alvear 1683, entre Rodríguez Peña y Montevideo (4814 8700/www.designsuites.com). Subte D, Callao/bus 10, 29, 39, 60, 132, 152. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D4. D

Casa Umare (see p160)

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it) yet still retains its intimate boutique feel. The red and black rooms are spacious and all have balconies and original art on the walls. Because it’s cool and because it’s Palermo Hollywood, rooms are complete with iPod docks and suite guests have iPads at their disposal. But for something really special, book the one and only terrace suite with its own private parrilla and outdoor jacuzzi. The roof-terrace pool is small but sweet, complete with a dry sauna, but the highlight is the lovely garden surrounded by palm trees – a perfect spot for a pre-dinner cocktail (and there are good’uns, including Pimm’s). If the choice between drinks is just too much, you can always retire to your room for a relaxing massage. Soler 5862, entre Ravignani y Carranza (3220 6800/www.fierrohotel. com). Subte D, Carranza/bus 12, 39, 57, 60, 67, 93, 95, 111, 152, 161. Rates $$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. D !Home Hotel It’s not, truth be told, very homely at all at Home. Unless your house boasts flawless design, vintage wallpaper in every room, spa services, a personal shopper and is ecologically friendly to boot. Each of the rooms at this boutique hotel has its own, tasteful look, and super stylish loft apartments are available for further privacy. The breakfast is included in the room rate and presented like a tray studded with jewels: a thimble of juice here, a shot of yoghurt there, bread, cheese and jam and an elegant morsel of chocolate ganache, and lots of good coffee. Book a suite beside the azure blue pool or a room with a view of the English-style garden. Guests and visitors can truly make themselves at home at the lovely restaurant and bar, or by indulging in a hot stone massage, a spot of reflexology or a relaxing facial.

Alternatively, head out into the city by booking one of the many tours. Honduras 5860, entre Carranza y Ravignani (4778 1008/www. homebuenosaires.com). Bus 39, 57, 93, 111, 140, 151, 168. Rates $$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2. DA Ilum When you can’t decide between a city break in Buenos Aires or a relaxing retreat on a Thai island, Ilum delivers the best of both worlds. Buddha statues adorn this luminous boutique hotel, where a cascading waterfall descends into the lobby and a serene back garden transports you light years away from the urban cacophony. There are just 12 elegant rooms here, spaced well enough apart that you don’t feel like you’re going to bed with your neighbour. The sizeable rooms come with a king-size bed and pillow menu, and have either street-side balconies or garden outlooks. Sweeping views over the barrio can be had from the outdoor Nordic-style jacuzzis, or take the muscle-melting bliss indoors with an in-room massage. El Salvador 5726, y Bonpland (4776 8667/www.ilumhotel.com). Bus 39, 57, 93, 111. Rates $$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2. D !Legado Mítico Let’s face it: theme hotels rarely work outside Las Vegas; only on the Strip does it really matter whether your bellhop is dressed as a Roman centurion or Sammy Davis Jr. So kudos to the designers of Legado Mítico, who have created a themed boutique hotel that doesn’t sacrifice comfort and style to gimmickry. Each of its 11 spacious rooms is devoted to a famous figure from Argentinian history, including tango genius Carlos Gardel, beloved author Jorge Luis Borges and, it hardly needs saying, former First Lady Eva Perón. The room’s decorations honour their respective themes, with books, photographs and posters that not only look good but are genuinely illuminating. But don’t worry, you won’t be tested on any of this, and there’s plenty of stuff for boneheads too, including large-screen TVs, a pretty terrace with comfy loungers and a bar and breakfast room. Gurruchaga 1848, entre Costa Rica y Nicaragua (4833 1300/www. legadomitico.com). Bus 15, 34, 36, 39, 55, 57, 110, 111, 141, 151, 160. Rates $$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. D Mine Hotel Boutique Atmospherically lit to accentuate the positive in both its design and its guests, this first-class boutique hotel is decked out in brown and neutral tones and funky furniture that looks like it came straight out of a swinging 1960s bachelor pad – but cooler. Mine’s 20 rooms are retro without feeling stuffy, and original without trying too hard. The downstairs café, where breakfast is served, is a cheerful sort of place to start the day and meet other likeminded travellers, if you’re so inclined. There’s also an attractive swimming pool in the garden out back.

their guests are well looked after (including the option of a proper English breakfast complete with sausage and eggs) and have helpful tips on navigating the city. Check the hotel’s Facebook page to find out what’s cooking at the monthly puerta cerrada restaurant. Vidt y Avenida Santa Fe (address provided when you reserve), Palermo (4827 0366/www.the5thfloorba.com). Subte D, Bulnes/bus 12, 39. Rates $$ double. No credit cards. Map F4. D

New in town Arroyo Hotel

Fresh from a head-to-toe makeover that revived it from drab ’80s decor, the Arroyo Hotel fills a void in its neighbourhood. It’s no mean feat to find affordable hotels that are decorated with custom art and design and within walking distance of BA’s main attractions anywhere in town, let alone in a barrio typically dominated by travelling businessmen. Retiro’s Arroyo Hotel manages just that. Night owls will love its proximity to Florería Atlántico (see p72) and BASA Bar (see p72), while culture seekers can walk just a few blocks to the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (see p126) and the Museo de Arte Hispanoamericano (see p122). And should you want to escape the city, the Retiro bus terminal is just a stone’s throw away. If that weren’t enough, the stunning mural by artist Eloísa Ballivian in the lobby will surely convince you to book a night. Suipacha 1359, entre Juncal y Arroyo (5276 7700/www.arroyotowers.com). Subte C, San Martín/bus 45, 59, 67, 92, 101, 106. Rate $ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. D

Hotels

Gorriti 4770, entre Malabia y Armenia (4832 1100/www.minehotel.com). Bus 15, 34, 39, 55. Rates $$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D Miravida Soho With original features and plenty of old-fashioned charm, this six-room converted house has character and all the modern conveniences that a traveller could desire. Rooms are bright and breezy, with high ceilings, and private balconies in some. Miravida stands out from other boutique hotels in featuring a handsomely stocked wine bar and cellar. Darregueyra 2050, y Soler (4774 6433/www.miravidasoho.com). Bus 34, 36, 108, 111, 166. Rates $$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. D Nuss This elegant former convent is located just steps away from lively Plaza Serrano with its shops, bars and restaurants, so that despite your serene accommodation choice, your stay here will most likely be more about hedonism, in one form or another, than asceticism. But if you’re determined to remain cloistered away for a weekend of uninterrupted rest and relaxation, Nuss’s comfortable, contemporary rooms, infused with an understated oldschool sophistication, are ideal. A small

gym and sauna are complemented by a rooftop terrace, where you can take a dip in the pool, though it’s more ornamental than Olympic-size. El Salvador 4916, y Jorge Luis Borges (4833 8100/www.nusshotel.com). Bus 34, 39, 55, 168. Rates $$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. D Palermo Place You’ll find plenty of space and tranquillity at this boutique hotel on a pretty, tree-lined street. The 26 plush, modern rooms come with kitchenettes and French balconies from where you can take in expansive views over the low-rise neighbourhood. Breakfast like an Argentinian on alfajores and coffee, or pay a bit more and receive coupons for one of four excellent local cafés. A small gym, coin-operated laundry and rooftop terrace with parrilla are all the amenities you need for that live-like-alocal experience. Nicaragua 5865, entre Carranza y Ravignani (3220 9600/www. palermoplace.com). Subte D, Carranza/ bus 39, 111, 152. Rates $$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. D MODERATE

1555 Malabia House Much imitated though perhaps still not bettered, this establishment was at the vanguard of the boutique hotel wave in

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Palermo Soho. This former convent – once home to the ladies of San Vicente Ferrer, who would scarcely recognise its contemporary incarnation – benefits from its owner’s inherent flair for design. Mini outdoor areas combine to create a relaxed oasis, and the warmth of your reception will likely tempt you to linger – few travellers leave these premises unimpressed. The 15 tasteful rooms all have air-conditioning and one has its own balcony. Though the building underwent a renovation scarcely imaginable in 1896, it truly remains an urban sanctuary. Malabia 1555, entre Gorriti y Honduras (4833 2410/www. malabiahouse.com.ar). Bus 39, 55, 168. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D The 5th Floor Nestled in the heart of Villa Freud, a leafy residential area in Palermo famous for its high percentage of psychoanalysts, The 5th Floor is an art deco-lover’s dream. The boutique bed and breakfast has five bedrooms spread over the fifth and sixth floors of what was formerly a 1940s petit hotel. A gorgeous marble staircase and an airy Andalusian terrace with hanging plants add to the stlyish and serene atmosphere. British and Argentinian owners Miles and Verónica ensure that

BA Sohotel Fresh flowers, Chesterfield sofas and a convivial atmosphere greet visitors at this friendly Palermo Soho hotel. The pea green and vermilion colour scheme runs throughout, as do contemporary paintings by local artists. Spacious, modern bedrooms are outfitted with custom furniture and have balconies with vistas of Palermo and disabled-accessible amenities to boot. The hotel is within proximity of all Palermo’s best bars and shopping, but if rest is on your agenda, book the seventh floor Premium suite and order a massage in your room. Better yet, enjoy the rooftop parrilla, wood-decked terrace with a jacuzzi and multi-language library. Paraguay 4485, y Jorge Luis Borges (4832 4474/www.basohotel.com). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 10, 12, 15, 29, 55, 57, 59, 60, 68, 188. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. D Cabrera Garden Boutique Guesthouse Cabrera Garden is the holiday home you wish you had, and hosts Norman and Robert the wonderful friends you wish were looking after it. There are just three guest bedrooms in their impeccably restored 1920s house, and they fill up – fast. The Santa Rita suite, with a separate living area and balcony, is the pick of the bunch. It has a staircase leading down to the garden, where gigantic potted plants, a banana tree, a swimming pool and a pet parrot create the perfect tropical paradise. Delicious home-cooked breakfasts are served up with love, and the attentive hosts offer a complete concierge service at no extra charge. Cabrera 5855, y Ravignani (4777 7668/www.cabreragarden.com). Bus 39, 93, 108, 111, 140, 151, 168. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, V. Map H2. D The Glu Hotel The Glu was conceived and built as a hotel from the ground up, so instead of cramming the odds and ends of every end-of-line designer sale into rooms the size of walk-in wardrobes, here the smallest room measures 35sq m, and is decorated in irreproachably minimalist style. Immaculate rosewood furnishings, buff leather sofas and spotless linen bedclothes are all pleasing to the eye and to the touch. There’s a rooftop jacuzzi and a spa downstairs with a sauna and an invigorating Scottish shower. And no, that’s not a thorough soaking by icy, needle-sharp, sideways-on rain – nor a

steady Dundee drizzle or a Glasgow general precipitation. Instead, it’s an invigorating shower endowed with extra powerful jets. Godoy Cruz 1733, y Gorriti (4831 4646/www.thegluhotel.com). Bus 34, 55. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D L’Hôtel Palermo L’Hôtel is a little slice of Provence in the heart of Palermo. Weeping willows drape over cobbled pathways, restored antique furniture could be straight out of a grand château, and then there’s the ‘secret garden’. This secluded oasis has a small but perfectly formed swimming pool, manicured lawn, shady trees, conservatory and high, ivy-covered walls. If you’re hiding from the paparazzi, this is the place to do it – they’d never suspect you were just one block from perpetually buzzing Plaza Serrano. L’Hôtel’s 23 suites – the best of which have garden views and jacuzzis – are spaced across two buildings, and despite the proximity to BA’s nightlife hub, deliver a surprisingly silent night’s sleep. The hotel’s concierge can also plan your entire BA-and-beyond itinerary, in as much detail as you like. Thames 1562, entre Honduras y Pasaje Soria (4831 7198/www. lhotelpalermo.com). Bus 34, 39, 140. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D

Livian Guesthouse Livian came to be when owner and ex-gymnast Lisandra began to invite friends to stay in her extensive family home. Nowadays you might not be a friend when you arrive, but you’ll certainly feel like one when you leave. The guesthouse is pitched somewhere between hotel and hostel, and its private rooms are complemented by inviting communal areas and a lovely garden where guests can mingle. The rooms are pretty too, each with its own theme and decorated with antique

Own Palermo Hollywood For travellers who have always wanted their own master suite with a private balcony, look no further than Own. A stay here feels like attentive, stylish friends have lent you their hip hangout, one that conveniently includes flat-screen TVs, DVD and CD players, and a handy set of notes on local attractions. The location couldn’t be better, with plenty of shopping, dining and drinking options within a matter of blocks. For those who prefer to stay in, an intimate ground floor lounge where you’ll eat breakfast also hosts nightly drinks. Cabrera 5556, y Humboldt (4772 8100/www.ownpalermo.com). Bus 21, 93, 111. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D Prodeo Hotel + Lounge This 11-suite boutique hotel has already gained a following among touring international DJs. One look at the sleek, low-lit interior with a spangly mirrorball dangling from on high, and it’s obvious why. The sound-insulated suites are masculine and modern, with private balconies and window-side bathtubs. Electronic chill-out tunes pulse in the downstairs bar, where you can loll about on curved leather sofas while sampling fine Argentinian wines. If you’re feeling slightly more active, do some lengths in the indoor pool before easing aching bones with an in-house massage. Gorriti 5374, y Godoy Cruz (4831 4471/www.prodeohotel.com). Bus 34, 39, 55, 140, 168. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2. D Ultra Hotel With a large, well-planned ground floor that lets hotel guests and visitors circulate through its eclectic spaces and come full circle, Ultra has a level of design savvy other boutique hotels would kill for. Shift harmoniously between the trendy lobby, the dark wood and leather of the library lounge, and a bright, shabby-chic conservatorystyle cafeteria. Spacious rooms, exceptionally friendly and helpful staff and a rooftop terrace with a pool are just the cherry on the cake. Gorriti 4929, y Gurruchaga (4833 9200/www.hotelultra.com). Bus 15, 34, 39, 55, 110, 140, 141, 151, 168. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.D

Hotels

Infinito Purple Haze might have been a better name for this hotel located near the botanical gardens: the lamps, doors, corridor wallpaper and even the yarn bombing on the trees outside follow the colour scheme. The second pervading theme is ecological friendliness; the floors are made with FSC wood and the hotel follows many energy conserving policies. The design of the rooms is minimal and modern rather than hippie, with plenty of white and touches of purple. Artwork is cleverly integrated into the headboards, which are splashed with images relating to Argentina (think salt flats in the north or the blue and white flag). Breakfast is served in the lobby area, where floor-to-ceiling windows and potted fig trees create a pleasant space. Meanwhile, up on the roof terrace, a jacuzzi and sauna provide relief to tired, post-sightseeing bones. Arenales 3689, y Aráoz (4832 1060/ www.infinitohotel.com). Bus 10, 12, 15, 29, 110, 118, 141. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map F4. D

trinkets and artwork. The owners are also more than happy to provide sightseeing recommendations. Palestina 1184, entre Avenida Córdoba y Cabrera (4862 8841/www. livianguesthouse.com). Bus 19, 26, 36, 90, 92, 99, 106, 109, 127, 140, 151, 160, 168. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map F2. D

Vain The friendly folk at Vain believe there’s nothing narcissistic about pampering yourself once in a while. When you check in to this tranquil 15-room boutique hotel located a short stroll away from Plaza Italia, you’re offered a complimentary drink, and if this isn’t Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2014/15 159

enough to de-stress, the Senior rooms are equipped with hydromassage tubs. Since you’re indulging in deadly sins, add a little gluttony to the list: don’t miss the delicious breakfast, which should set you up a treat for a day of strolling in the surrounding area. Thames 2226, y Paraguay (4776 8246/www.vainuniverse.com). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 10, 12, 15, 29, 34, 36, 39, 55, 60, 68, 93, 95, 166, 188, 194. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. D Vitrum Hotel This Palermo hotel is instantly recognisable from the street thanks to the colourful patchwork tiles on its façade; inside, design trends, up-to-the-minute technology and avant-garde art spice things up further. Vitrium recently upped its room and suite count, including a two-storey loft with psychedelic-chic wallpaper and calming studios with azure accents and colourful glass tiled bathrooms. There’s a stylish sushi restaurant on site and an art gallery that leads to a lush, tranquil garden, but the pièce de résistance is the luxurious, brand new spa, with a gym, sauna, massage rooms and steam bath. Gorriti 5641, entre Fitz Roy y Bonpland (4776 5030/www. vitrumhotel.com). Bus 34, 39, 93, 111, 151, 166. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2. D BUDGET

Bernarda House At this charming little B&B, six rooms are spread over three floors on a tree-lined Palermo Soho street. The converted house’s hardwood floors, exposed bricks and vintage furniture add to its appeal, as do the works of

art, painted by the owner. The owner’s daughter Loli Delger also offers guests unique, tailor-made city tours with her company The Hummingbird Trip (www.thehummingbirdtrip.com). Uriarte 1942, entre Soler y Nicaragua, (mobile 15 3227 1111). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 34, 36, 39, 55, 57, 108, 111. Rates $ double. No credit cards. Map G3. D

Finisterra is more of a warm refuge from the hustle and bustle. From the contemporary decor – which is offset by a sensible smattering of antique objects – to the serene garden and rooftop hardwood deck complete with a hot tub, Las Cañitas cool infuses this smart boutique hotel. If you do wish to take advantage of the upmarket night scene, then you’re in just the right spot. Báez 248, entre Arguibel y Arévalo (4773 0901/www.248finisterra.com). Bus 10, 15, 29, 39. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H4. D

Hotel Costa Rica Nestled in a quiet area of Palermo but close enough to the buzz, Hotel Costa Rica offers a bargain to be smug about. Originally two houses, the hotel retains a homely feel and jigsaw layout, and the staff are among the friendliest Time Out has found. They’ll be on-hand to offer local advice as you enjoy a coffee or glass of vino tinto at the lobby-cumlounge’s elegant but understated bar, in what would once have been the reception room of this beautiful house. Cosy and comfortable rooms have been recently renovated and the small but perfectly formed communal areas – such as the inviting upstairs terrace – play host to those memorable story-swapping encounters normally found in a more laid-back environment. Costa Rica 4137/39, entre Gascón y Acuña de Figueroa (4864 7390/ www.hotelcostarica.com.ar). Subte D, Scalabrini Ortiz/bus 15, 57, 110. Rates $ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map F3. D

Almagro and Villa Crespo DELUXE

!Casa Umare It takes a certain amount of vision to see a crumbling, nearly 100-year-old building in Almagro and imagine a sumptuous boutique hotel in its place. Fortunately, owners Andrea and Pablo had such a vision, and after three years of restoration, Casa Umare came to life in 2012. The marble entranceway and stained glass windows retain the traditional feel of the house, while each of the hotel’s six unique apartments (all of which come with a kitchen and dining room) gets an eclectic mix of modern and antique furniture, and paintings by Pablo adorn the walls. The restaurant in the hands of chef Darío Gualtieri and well-stocked wine cellar are worth a visit even if you aren’t a guest. But what makes Umare really come to life is the exceptionally friendly and attentive staff. Billinghurst 362, y Sarmiento, Almagro (4861 2030/www.casaumare. com). Subte B, Carlos Gardel/bus 92, 104, 127, 146, 151, 160. Rates $$$$ double. Credit MC, V. Map E2. D

Las Cañitas MODERATE

248 Finisterra Although it’s just a stone’s throw away from the buzzing bars, cafés and shops that draw so many to Las Cañitas, 248

Panamericano Buenos Aires

Esplendor Plaza Francia Situated in the heart of Recoleta, this spendid hotel has rooms with spectacular, leafy views of Plaza Francia and its surroundings. See p156. Panamericano Buenos Aires Relax in the spa on the 23rd floor of this central hotel, which has panoramic views of the widest avenue in the world. Carlos Pelligrini 551 (4348 5000).

MODERATE

FOTO RUTA

Hotels

Hotels with a view

Palermitano Watch slow-paced porteño life go by on the streets below as you splash about in Palermitano’s rooftop pool. Uriarte 1648 (4897 2100). Ilum For the ultimate luxurious vista, sit in the hot tub of this boutique hotel and gaze at the mix of skyscrapers and greenery surrounding this oasis of calm. See p156.

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Querido B&B This stylish bed and breakfast, just minutes away from Palermo, is run by an Anglo-Brazilian couple who have managed to create a modern but homely lodging. Although it’s been beautifully renovated, the building still retains some original features. Each of the eight double rooms has an en-suite bathroom, and some have flat-screen TVs and a balcony. A basket of baked goods awaits you for breakfast each morning. The owners are experienced travellers, and the cosy living area contains various books to read outside on the lovely patio. Juan Ramírez de Velasco 934, entre Thames y Serrano, Villa Crespo (4854 6297/www.queridobuenosaires.com). Subte B, Malabia/bus 15, 55. Rates $$ double. Credit MC, V. Map G1. D BUDGET

Pop Hotel Neighbourhoods like Palermo are littered with pricey boutique hotels, but Pop Hotel brings something different to the genre. Located in the up-and-coming ‘outlet zone’ of Villa Crespo, this is BA’s first ‘budget boutique’ hotel. Pop, with its psychedelic wall patterns and Roy

Lichtenstein-inspired reception, is an ode to pop art, and manages to offer comfort with a bright splash of style, for less. All 44 rooms have plasma TVs, iPod docks and kitchenettes, while the deluxe and master suites have balconies. Breakfast vouchers for a rather nondescript café across the road can be bought at reception for US$13. Juan Ramírez de Velasco 793, y Gurruchaga, Villa Crespo (4776 6900/ www.pophotelsbuenosaires.com). Subte B, Malabia/bus 15, 24, 34, 55, 90, 106, 168. Rates $ double. Credit MC, V. Map G1. D Racó de Buenos Aires ‘Off the beaten track’ is frequently a euphemism for tricky to get to, but this intimate hotel is tucked conveniently close to the Subte and bus stops on busy Avenida Rivadavia. Named after the Catalan word for ‘corner’ in homage to owner Julián’s time in Barcelona, and filled with great artwork by local artists, Racó is located in Almagro, home to the charming, old-school Las Violetas café (see p28) and pleasant residential streets with restaurants populated more by locals than by tourists. The hotel’s 12 comfortable rooms are all decorated in contrasting styles – a deluxe room, for example, recreates the aesthetic of La Boca’s iconic, colourful buildings. Yapeyú 271, y Hipólito Yrigoyen, Almagro (3530 6075/www. racodebuenosaires.com.ar). Subte A, Castro Barros/bus 5, 128, 132, 151. Rates $ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E1. D

San Isidro HIGH-END

Hotel del Casco San Isidro is an irresistibly quaint neighbourhood that has been a popular short excursion from BA’s bustle since the 18th century. It has been more attractive than ever since this 19th-century house was converted into a hotel. With its whitewashed porticoes, wrought-iron lanterns and interior glass-ceilinged patio, the place is charming and old-fashioned. But it doesn’t lack modern amenities, such as a business centre, health club and pool. Avenida del Libertador 16170 (4732 3993/www.hoteldelcasco.com.ar). Train to San Isidro from Retiro. Rates $$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. D

Apart-hotels

Better equipped than an ordinary hotel room, but requiring less commitment than renting a property, BA’s apart-hotels combine the advantages of self-catering with the convenience of hotel services. THE CENTRE

Livin’ Residence Livin’ Residence’s apartments, close to Recoleta and Microcentro, range from studios for lone travellers to twobedroom options. Every apartment comes with a kitchenette and a balcony. There’s also free internet, a gym,

jacuzzi, use of washing machines and a rooftop area with a parrilla. Ground floor,Viamonte 1815, entre Avenida Callao y Riobamba, Balvanera (5258 0300/www.livinresidence.com). Subte D, Callao/bus 12, 23, 26, 29, 37. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D4. D LA BOCA

Azcuénaga 1465, entre French y Juncal (4821 6800/www.artsuites.com.ar). Subte D, Pueyrredón/bus 39, 41, 59, 60, 61, 62, 64, 68, 118, 152, 194. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E4. D Poetry Building Once a crumbling Recoleta mansion, the Poetry Building has been given a stunning new lease of life as an aparthotel. Spacious lofts, studios and a roof terrace with dipping pool provide tranquillity amid the Buenos Aires pandemonium. Guests have everything a local might need: information on the city and a local mobile phone. Pick vegetables from the organic allotment on the terrace to cook for dinner as you dance to the music of your room’s very own iPod. Junín 1280, entre Arenales y Juncal. (4827 2772/www.poetrybuilding.com). Bus 39, 60, 93, 124. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E4. D

Patios de La Boca This corner of La Boca is one of the city’s less salubrious areas – keep your wits about you in the surrounding streets, especially if Boca Juniors football team is playing at home – but it’s full of local character. With its airy outdoor spaces and bright interior colour schemes, Patios de la Boca comprises ten self-contained apartments plus a communal garden and a terrace. There’s a three-night minimum stay here, but if you’re sticking around, ask about the excellent monthly rates. Wenceslao Villafañe 452, entre Almirante Love by the hour Brown y Martín PALERMO Feeling frisky? Don’t Rodríguez (4802 9427/ Palermo Tower miss trying Argentina’s This sleek apart-hotel in www.patiosdela telos (love hotels) for bocaenglish.blogspot. creates a sense of calm some hot fun with a com). Bus 29, 52, 86, the moment you check kitsch twist. See 129, 130, 159, 168. in. It might be the fresh page 162. Rates $$ double. No coffee in the lobby or the credit cards. Map B2. D soothing chocolate and cream colour scheme, but the warm staff SAN TELMO welcome certainly plays a part. All 23 Casa & Mundo Bolivar rooms are spacious and have a living Snap up a hip studio or two-storey loft area and kitchenette. Most have apartment inside this century-old balconies overlooking the leafy house in the heart of the city’s most residential street, but for a killer view, romantic neighbourhood. There are 14 head to the rooftop pool. A washerfully-equipped apartments and each dryer and gym help make longer stays has its own unique character: lounge more convenient. beneath chandeliers and a ceiling Charcas 4955, entre Avenida Juan B fresco in the spacious Baroque loft, or Justo y Humboldt (3220 1100/www. chill in the Oriental studio complete palermotower.com). Subte D, Palermo/ with Asian decorative touches. Leafy bus 10, 12, 15, 29. Rates $$$ double. internal patios, an on-site café and live Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. D music on Wednesday nights offer a chance to mingle with fellow guests. The friendly Danish owner is always on hand to ensure everything runs as CENTRE smoothly as a freshly laid bed sheet. Bolívar 1701, y Dr Enrique Finochietto Terrazas Estoril (4300 3619/www.casabolivar.com). Bus Attentive staff and a prime position on 4, 10, 12, 24, 28, 29, 33, 39. Rates $ the top floor of a restored, century-old double. Credit V. Map A3. D building make this one of the best hostels in BA. The Argentinian owners RECOLETA have thought of it all: bright and airy dorms, quality mattresses, big spotless Art Suites bathrooms, breakfasts worth waking Situated on a quiet Recoleta block, Art up for and a travel desk to make sure Suites is a refuge for those who prefer you hit the ground running. This isn’t a spacious apartments to hotel rooms. party hostel (go to Milhouse for that), There’s no sterile lobby with stiff but an excellent place to connect with couches and piped-in music; just a like-minded travellers in the inviting round-the-clock doorman and a lift to whisk guests to huge suites fitted with lounge, well-stocked bar or at weekly rooftop asados against the backdrop of whirlpool baths and soundproof glass the Divine Comedy-inspired Palacio doors opening on to private terraces. Barolo building. Frequent protests on Premium apartments, each containing two bedrooms and two bathrooms, can Avenida de Mayo may disturb your morning slumber, but it’s all part of comfortably accommodate five people in style. As far as service is concerned, living in the heart of the city. these discreet lodgings offer the best of 6th floor, Avenida de Mayo 1386, entre Uruguay y Talcahuano, Congreso both worlds, so that guests might (4372 5494/www.hostelestoril.com.ar). forget they’re in a hotel until the Subte A, Sáenz Peña/bus 5, 8, 10, 17, doorbell rings in the morning, and a 24, 39, 60, 86, 90, 102, 103. Rates tray piled high with medialunas and AR$130 per person dorm; AR$400 coffee arrives on their dining room double. No credit cards. Map C4. D table. Excellent for long-term stays.

TOP TIP!

Hostels

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SAN TELMO & SOUTH OF THE CENTRE

America del Sur Backpackers who are accustomed to hostels that are falling apart at the seams will find bright, clean and modern America del Sur Hostel a breath of fresh air. This is one of the city’s most pleasant hostels, with dorms and double rooms decorated in cheerful primary colours. Excellent disabled access throughout plus a room specially designed for wheelchair users wins it a double thumbs up from us. Backpackers heading south can run into America del Sur again at its Calafate hostel. Chacabuco 718, entre Avenida Independencia y Chile, San Telmo (4300 5525/www.americahostel.com. ar). Subte E, Independencia/bus 2, 10, 17, 22, 29, 45, 59, 126, 195. Rates AR$170 per person dorm; AR$600 double. Credit MC, V. Map B4. D Milhouse Conveniently located between San Telmo and Microcentro, this threetiered 1890 house was built from materials shipped over from Europe. Nowadays, it’s the city’s liveliest and most popular hostel, so be sure to book well in advance. Always buzzing with a good vibe, Milhouse also offers tango classes and tours. Hipólito Yrigoyen 959, entre Tacuarí y Bernardo de Irigoyen, Monserrat (4345 9604/www.milhousehostel.com). Subte C, Avenida de Mayo/bus 2, 5, 7, 8, 10, 17, 22, 98, 100, 103, 105, 111, 126, 129, 146. Rates AR$130 per person dorm; AR$465 double. Credit MC, V. Map C4. D Other location Avenida de Mayo 1245, Congreso (4383 9383).

PALERMO

Back in BA A cosy little place on a quiet street in the heart of Palermo Soho, Back in BA has nine comfortable rooms, a renovated kitchen and a TV room. A central patio hosts regular outdoor asados, and the friendly bilingual staff, available at all hours, can help to arrange trips, tours and classes of all descriptions. Storage lockers have sockets inside so that guests can discreetly recharge any of their valuable electronic gadgets. Breakfast is included in the rate, and the friendly British owner is on hand most days of the week if you have any questions and to keep everything running as smooth as clockwork. El Salvador 5115, y Uriarte (4774 2859/www.backinba.com). Bus 28, 29, 34, 39, 45, 50, 55, 56, 57, 93, 100, 103, 105, 111, 126, 140, 151, 166. Rates AR$120 per person dorm; US$450 double with bathroom. No credit cards. Map G3. D Eco Pampa Palermo If the idea of staying in the heart of Buenos Aires’s trendiest barrio isn’t enough to sway you, maybe the thought of staying in the city’s first eco-friendly hostel will. This tastefully renovated building possesses an artistically-designed yet minimalist interior, which is furnished with energy-efficient chandeliers,

Hotels

Ostinatto Hostel Clean, minimalist design has been successfully integrated into this ‘boutique hostel’, housed in a lovely early 20th-century building. With six interweaving staircases, at first sight the interior resembles an Escher

sketch, but it’s one that comes with an in-house art gallery, free English, tango and yoga classes and ping-pong competitions. There’s also a private apartment on the penthouse floor, in case the urge to splurge on a lavish room should take hold. Chile 680, y Chacabuco, San Telmo (4362 9639/www.ostinatto.com). Subte E, Belgrano/bus 2, 8, 9, 10, 17, 24, 29, 67, 70, 86, 91, 98, 100, 103, 126, 129. Rates AR$125 per person dorm; AR$330 double. No credit cards. Map B4. D

Four Seasons Hotel (see p154)

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refurbished wood benches and a bar selling cocktails and mixers. If you venture out to the rooftop terrace you’ll also see a small organic herb garden. Guatemala 4778, y Gurruchaga (4831 2435/www.hostelpampa.com.ar). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 15, 29, 34, 36, 39, 55, 57, 110, 111, 141, 160. Rates AR$145 per person dorm; AR$680 double with private bathroom. Credit MC, V. Map G3. ABASTO

Chill House Housed in a charming 1907 dwelling, Chill House has a sociable atmosphere and comfortable shared and private rooms. The cosy Chill Room and weekly asados held on the rooftop terrace provide the perfect opportunity to meet other guests. There is a clean, communal kitchen, and the friendly staff are on hand to help you make the most of your time in BA. Agüero 781, y Tucumán (4861 6175/ www.chillhouse.com.ar). Subte B, Carlos Gardel/bus 24, 26, 29, 71, 92, 99, 106, 109, 124, 128, 140, 146, 168, 180, 188. Rates AR$130 per person dorm; AR$480 double. No credit cards. Map E3. D

Telos

Telos (from the porteño backslang for hotel) are establishments offering rooms for rent by turns (turnos) for romantic encounters. This Argentinian tradition is popular with local residents looking to spice up their love lives, and is recommendable if you want to get a glimpse of what all the fuss is about. Don’t worry, there’s nothing dodgy about this practice: telos are highly transited, as many young people live with their parents until they wed, and some couples even rent a room for an hour on their lunchbreaks downtown. While the rooms’ decor is often tacky, they are generally clean and discreet – efforts are made to conceal the entrances at the end of hidden driveways, though the law says that every telo must have an ‘albergue transitorio’ sign advertising its presence. Combining sauciness and sophistication, Dissors (Colectora de Avenida General Paz 900, Ciudadela, 4653 0134, www.dissorshotel.com.ar) is a great five-star option. More expensive suites feature jacuzzis and outdoor pools; rates are AR$645-$1015 for a turno, which is four hours before 5pm and three after. BA’s most famous love hotel, the kitsch Los Jardines de Babilonia (Ruta Panamericana entre Alvear y Boulogne Sur Mer, Don Torcuato, 4727 0270) has lured many a porteño out of town for some raunchy role play. Rates for sessions range from AR$400 to AR$950, the most expensive of which will get you a two-floor suite with a patio for sunbathing if you choose the eight-hour, daytime turno. After 8pm the turns are four hours in length on weekdays, while on weekends they are two or three hours in duration, depending on the price range you select. JJ Hotel (Avenida del Libertador 7900, 4701 4800, www.hoteljj.com.ar) in Núñez has been satisfying guests for over 35

years. They’re attracted by the property’s tastefully decorated rooms– AR$725-$1080 for three-hours – and discreet, private parking with direct access to your den of iniquity. Rampa Car (Carranza 1347, 4773 6964, www. hotelrampacar.com.ar) in the heart of Palermo also provides easy access: the almost en-suite garages mean you can drive right up and get down to it. Choose from several themed rooms, costing from AR$250 to AR$440 for a three-hour turno. But don’t be shy, there are plenty more stimulating love-hotel options than the few that are mentioned here. For a more comprehensive list of telos in BA, www.alberguesonline.com. ar lets you search by location, price and in-room extras.

Hotels index 1555 Malabia House 248 Finisterra The 5th Floor Algodon Mansion Alvear Art Hotel Alvear Palace Hotel América del Sur Art Suites Arroyo Hotel Back in BA BA Sohotel Bernarda House Cabrera Garden Casa & Mundo Bolivar Casa Calma Casa Umare Castelar Hotel & Spa Chill House Design Suites & Towers Dissors Eco Pampa Palermo Esplendor Plaza Francia Faena Hotel Buenos Aires Fierro Hotel Four Seasons Hotel The Glu Hotel Home Hotel Hotel Babel Hotel del Casco Hotel Costa Rica Hotel Madero L’Hôtel Palermo Hub Porteño Ilum Infinito Los Jardines de Babilonia JJ Hotel Legado Mítico Livian Guesthouse Livin’ Residence Milhouse Mine Hotel Boutique Mio Buenos Aires Miravida Soho Monserrat Apart Hotel Nuss Ostinatto Hostel Own Palermo Hollywood Palermo Place Palermo Tower Park Hyatt Buenos Aires Patios de La Boca Patios de San Telmo Plaza Hotel Buenos Aires Poetry Building Pop Hotel Posada Gotan Prodeo Hotel + Lounge Querido B&B Racó de Buenos Aires Rampa Car Rooney’s Boutique Hotel San Telmo Luxury Suites Terrazas Estoril Ultra Hotel Vain Vitrum Hotel

158 160 158 154 150 154 162 161 158 162 158 160 158 161 152 160 152 162 156 162 162 156 154 156 154 158 156 152 160 160 154 159 154 156 159 162 162 156 159 160 162 156 156 158 152 158 162 159 158 161 154 161 152 152 161 160 154 159 160 160 162 152 152 161 159 159 160

Getting away

Photograph: Adrien de Bontin

Uruguay

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ROSIE HILDER

Getting Away

Smile and wave to the camera as you pose with ‘The Hand’ at Punta del Este’s Brava Beach

A Uruguayan escape Stylish retreats, tiny fishing towns, nature reserves and hippie beach villages, Uruguay has it all. Emily Jensen uncovers the country’s best summer getaways

rossing the river that separates Argentina and Uruguay takes about as long as a journey across the city of Buenos Aires by bus. It’s no surprise then that many porteños consider the tiny neighbouring country to be the 24th Argentinian province (perhaps to the chagrin of actual Uruguayan residents). Come summertime when muggy heat descends on Buenos Aires, there’s no better respite than the stunning Uruguayan coastline. Uruguay’s high season is from December to March, but the period from late December until early February in particular sees a peak in visitors and correspondingly, a peak in prices. Be sure to book lodgings some time in advance if you’re hoping to visit during those months.

Getting there To cross the river from Buenos Aires to Colonia, Uruguay, reserve a passage on a ferry with Buquebus

(www.buquebus.com), or cheaper options Seacat (www.seacatcolonia. com.ar) and Colonia Express (www. coloniaexpress.com). The first two leave from a large terminal in Puerto Madero, while the latter exits Argentina from La Boca. Through any of these companies, you can book a connecting bus from Colonia’s port to Montevideo or Punta del Este. Buquebus also has a direct ferry to the capital. Those who don’t have their ‘river legs’ can fly directly to Montevideo or Punta del Este. Once in Uruguay, backpackers will find the Summer Bus (00 598 4277 5781, www.summerbus.com) a convenient option for travel along the coast. The bus picks up and drops off passengers at various hostels, starting in Montevideo and ending in Punta del Diablo. A ‘Hop On, Hop Off’ ticket, which includes stops at 12 destinations, costs US$95 and can be used anytime from November 2 to March 9. One-way tickets are also available and can be bought from participating hostels.

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To design your own travel itinerary, consult the website for Montevideo’s Tres Cruces bus terminal (www.trescruces.com.uy), which lists timetables for local bus companies. If you really want to go it alone, rent a car from an agency like Avis (00 5982 1700, www.avis.com. uy), from around US$60 per day. And if you’re ever feeling lost, don’t be afraid to ask a local for help. Despite what Luis Suárez’s antics at the recent World Cup would suggest, Uruguayans are generally friendly and helpful people, and quite welcoming to foreigners.

City life Most travellers from Buenos Aires will have to debark in Colonia del Sacramento to pass through customs. The cobblestone-filled, waterfront town is a UNESCO heritage site and a popular day trip for expats who need to renew their 90-day Argentinian tourist visa, as well as for clandestine porteño

couples looking to escape the city. For lunch with a view of the water, stop by Lentas Maravillas (Santa Rita 16, 00 598 4522 0636), the best spot in town for delicious sandwiches, smoothies and sweet treats. You could easily see all of Colonia in a day, but if you do plan to spend the night, book a room at the eco-conscious El Capullo (18 de Julio 219, 00 598 4523 0135, www. elcapullo.com, $$), run by an Anglo-American couple. For a friendly, affordable stay and the chance to meet other travellers, stay at El Viajero B&B (Odriozola 269, 00 598 4522 8645, www.elviajerobb.com, $). You can expect the same quality and friendly service at El Viajero’s hostels in Montevideo, Punta del Este and La Pedrera. Montevideo is Uruguay’s capital and largest city. Located 179 kilometres (111 miles), from Colonia, it’s positively bustling compared to the rest of the towns along Uruguay’s coast, but it’s nonetheless a relaxing break from

Buenos Aires. Stylish digs can be found at the Esplendor Hotel Montevideo (Soriano 868, 00 598 2900 1900, $). The hotel is just steps away from Baar Fun Fun (Ciudadela 1229, 00 598 2915 8005, www.barfunfun.com), a historical tango bar dating to 1895. As the name implies, it’s a good time spot that fills up quickly. On Sundays, head to La Feria de Tristán Narvaja, at Avenida 18 de Julio and Tristán Narvaja. The flea market sells artisan goods and draws in a hefty crowd of locals and tourists. While in Colonia or Montevideo, it’s advisable to make a pit stop at an ATM before continuing on your journey, as many towns along the coast are ATM-free and mostly cash-only. Businesses will often accept Argentinian pesos, Brazilian reals and US dollars in addition to local currency. Both dollars and Uruguayan pesos can be withdrawn from ATMs.

Chic getaways

Culture vultures Uruguay isn’t just about tanning, partying and dining out. For a cultural escape, head to La Pedrera, located 120 kilometres (74 miles) east of Punta. The beach village draws in plenty of visitors for Jazz Entre

José Ignacio’s top chef

Trocca is at the forefront of Uruguay’s dining scene

Fernando Trocca is one of Argentina’s most renowned chefs. Currently the owner of Sucre (see p66) in Buenos Aires, he’s worked alongside culinary giants like Gato Dumas and Francis Mallman and is also the host of various TV programmes like Trocca a la Fontán and Hombres a la Cocina. Time Out chatted with him about his new establishment in José Ignacio, the Mostrador Santa Teresita, and what makes Uruguay a top culinary destination. How long have you been coming to Punta del Este? For the past 25 years. How has Punta del Este influenced your career? The first time I went to Punta del Este was in the summer of 1989. I went to work at Bleu Blanc Rouge, at that time one of the best restaurants in the area. Since then Punta del Este has always influenced me. Why do you think so many foreigners visit Punta del Este? What would you recommend for them to do? It’s a very special place, the beaches, the people. In my opinion the best thing to do is rent a small house near the ocean and enjoy the beach, the food, the dining options, Uruguayan ingredients, etc. What are the ingredients you appreciate the most in Uruguay? What are your favourite Uruguayan dishes? The dairy products are incredible, as are the vegetables. The Rey del Monte variety of yellow peaches are, in my opinion, some of the best in the world. The cuisine in Uruguay is very similar to that of Argentina. I like to eat asado, grilled corvina and grilled brótola with summer tomatoes and olive oil. Where do you like to eat in Uruguay? My favourite places are La Huella, Marismo, Lucifer, El Palenque and, of course, my own place Santa Teresita.

Why did you decide to open Santa Teresita? After so many years of going to Punta del Este and José Ignacio, my friends from La Huella, Martín Pittaluga, Guzmán Artagaveytia and Gustavo Barbero, offered me a part in this project. I didn’t even think about it. I accepted my friends’ generous offer immediately and put myself at the helm of Santa Teresita with their support. After this summer, what plans do you have for 2015? Finishing my first book! I’ll also keep working on my projects that are already in motion, like my restaurant Sucre, with a lot of new changes for the better. Something else that is new for me but very important, is to continue developing my social media network and digital universe. It’s very interesting to me how social media allows me to be closer to my followers. I really like the digital part because it gives me the chance to take on new formats, like videos, photography, etc., and there’s no delay between my kitchen and the person looking for new things and flavours. What are your favourite recipes for this summer and where can people find them? This summer we’re definitely going to keep working on the recipes for Santa Teresita: lots of salads and grilled vegetables in our clay oven. On my fanpage, I post a few recipes and lots of tips every week, so people can learn a bit more about cooking. I also post culinary tricks and recommendations for the best seasonal foods, like fruits and vegetables, how to eat them, how to cook them and more. For Trocca’s expert tips, tricks and recipes, see his website (www.fernando trocca.com) or follow him on Facebook (www.facebook.com/fernandotrocca), Twitter (@FernandoTrocca) or Instagram (instagram.com/ftrocca).

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Getting Away

Lying 140 kilometres (87 miles) east of Montevideo, Punta del Este is Uruguay’s most famous destination, and a favourite for both wealthy Argentinian families and partyseeking travellers. High-end is the name of the game in Punta. Luxurious lodgings can be found at Hotel L’Auberge (Barrio Parque Golf, 00 598 4248 2601, www.laubergehotel.com, $$$), a European-style hotel with beautiful gardens and a traditional tea room. Tuck into Mediterranean-inspired dining at Lo de Charlie (Calle 12 819, 00 598 9451 3999). Don’t miss the standout chipirones a la plancha (grilled baby squid). Classic French restaurant La Bourgogne (Avenida del Mar 20100, 00 598 4248 2007) is as posh as they come and recently won a spot in the 2014 edition of Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants. Known simply as The Hand, the sculptural fingers crawling out of the sand at Brava Beach is a Punta del Este landmark and popular tourist photo opportunity. The sculpture by Chilean artist Mario Irarrázabal is also known as Hombre Emergiendo a la Vida (Man Emerging into Life) or Monumento al Ahogado (Monument to the Drowned), depending on how macabrely you interpret the fingers’ meaning. Casapueblo (00 598 4257 8041, www.clubhotelcasapueblo. com) is another architectural attraction with darker undertones. Located in Punta Ballena, the structure of surrealist white houses was designed by Uruguayan artist Carlos Paéz Villaró in honour of his son, one of the survivors of the 1972 Andes flight disaster. It now houses a museum as well as a hotel and a restaurant. Clubbers should make the journey to Bikini Beach in La Barra, a popular resort just 12 kilometres (7 miles) from Punta. Nightclubs like

Tequila and Sugar often draw a young, good-looking crowd, but your best bet is to ask the locals for their favourite place of the moment. After a long night of partying, make a stop at Rex (Avenida Eduardo Victor Haedo, 00 598 4277 1504, www. rexpuntadeleste.com). The ’50s-style diner is open 24 hours a day during December and January and claims to serve the best chivito – a popular sandwich containing various meats, egg and veggies – in town. Another 36 kilometres (22 miles) from Punta is José Ignacio, a fishing village that happens to have the best dining in the region. Budget-minded travellers can book a stay at the relaxing, seaside Je Nous Hostel (Ruta 10, km 181, 00 598 4486 2275, www.jenoushostel.com, $$, US$40 dorm), while high-end accomodation can be found at La Posada del Faro (Calle de la Bahía y Timonel, 00 598 4486 2110, www. posadadelfaro.com, $$$$). To get away from the crowds, head inland to find Hotel Garzón (35 km north, Camino de la Capilla y Ruta a José Ignacio, 00 598 4410 2811, www. restaurantegarzon.com, $$$$). The hotel’s restaurant is the work of famed Argentinian chef Francis Mallmann. Mallmann’s former protégée Lucía Soria has also opened a restaurant in Garzón, Lucifer (Camino a la Estacion Custiel, 00 598 9925 5249). In José Ignacio, Parador La Huella (Calle de Los Cisnes, 00 598 4486 2279, www.paradorlahuella.com) has been ranked Uruguay’s number one restaurant on Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurant list two years running, and with good reason. Naturally, you’ll need a reservation, but you’ll be dreaming of La Huella’s divine creations cooked up from fresh, local produce and of the idyllic waterfront location long after you’ve left. Don’t miss the grilled corvina, a fish native to Latin America. Also shaping up the local dining scene is Fernando Trocca (see right). Trocca recently opened Mostrador Santa Teresita (Las Garzas y Las Calandrias, 00 598 4486 2004), a takeaway spot offering fresh, mostly vegetarian food throughout the day. Stop by for dinner on Tuesdays, when an invited chef cooks up an original menu, and on Thursdays for paella night. If you’re travelling with your partner, make a reservation at Marismo (Ruta 10, km 185, 00 598 4486 2273), a romantic restaurant hidden away in the white sand dunes, serving fresh fish and slow-cooked lamb under the stars.

Visitors can climb to the top of its most famous landmark, the lighthouse, for 360-degree views of the surrounding beaches. Find friendly, top quality lodgings at Zen Boutique Apart Hotel (Calle Botavara, 00 598 4479 6090, www. zenlapaloma.com, $$$), or for a cheaper stay, there’s Hostel Cruz del Sur (Juno y Ceres, www. hostelcruzdelsur.site90.com, $).

Hippies and nature seekers When you need a complete escape from civilization, nothing beats Cabo Polonio. This village inside a nature reserve is just a short trip from La Pedrera. With less than 100 residents and no widespread electricity, hot water or Internet, the little village makes Colonia look like New York City. Cars and buses can’t reach Cabo Polonio, which is separated from the main road by sand dunes. Buses will drop you off at the terminal, and from there you’ll have to take a ride on a 4x4. Climb to the top-tier seats for a view of the water as you approach the village. Vehicles to Cabo Polonio leave approximately every hour, with the last heading out at 10pm. A return trip costs $170 Uruguayan pesos. The best way to experience the beach town is by renting a cabin, from either the village’s tourism site (www.portaldelcabo.com.uy), or Airbnb. For a more comfortable stay (and guaranteed hot water), book a room at the bed and breakfast Lo de

Elisa (Playa La Calavera, 00 598 9992 1407, lodeelisa@cabopolonio. com, $). Host Elisa can also cook a delicious dinner for guests, an alternative to the pizza and chivitos you’ll find in the village. Nature lovers are advised to reserve a day’s outing to the forest of ombúes at Monte de Ombúes (mobile 00 598 9905 0631, la_ barra_grande@gmail.com). The ombú is a large evergreen tree native to the pampa region of South America and is a symbol of gaucho culture. Tickets cost $250 Uruguayan pesos. Continue another 62 kilometres (38 miles) east of Cabo Polonio to find Punta del Diablo, which is just 43 kilometres (26 miles) from the border with Brazil. More developed than Cabo Polonia (as in, Internet and electricity are the norm), but with the same hippie vibe, the coastal town remains quiet until January, when its beaches fill up with holidaying Argentinians, Brazilians and Uruguayans. Short of camping on the sand itself, you can’t get closer to the sea than staying at El Diablo Tranquilo Playa Suites (Avenida Central, 598 4477 2519, www.eldiablotranquilo. com, US$50 dorm, $$). The on-site restaurant and bar are open to the public and make for a lovely way to chat with other guests or visitors over fresh seafood and caipirinhas. Partygoers might feel more at home at La Casa de Las Boyas (00 598 4477 2074, lacasadelasboyas.com. uy, $). The sprawling hostel is located just a few steps from the beach and is kitted out to resemble a boat, with a decor made up of nets

and boyas (buoys). During peak season, backpackers congregate around the pool and parrilla at all hours of the night. To get among the waves, rent a surfboard or book a surfing class. Serious surfistas should rent a cabin from Jardines del Diablo (Boulevard San Miguel y Maravillas, 00 598 9818 9598, www.facebook.com/ jardinesdeldiablo, $$). Owner Jeronimo Bahr can help guests find the best classes and teachers and has hosted surf camps in the past. Also look out for La Surfera, the surfing school of George Acosta, Uruguay’s three-time national surfing champion. For the latest updates on Uruguay’s surfing scene and weather forecast, see surfing website El Paipo (www.paipo.com.uy). Get a hearty, well-priced dinner after a day on the waves at Resto Pub 70 (Avenida de los Pescadores), which serves fresh pasta and generous glasses of wine. A number of restaurants in town serve more or less the same menu of chivitos, pizza and seafood like rabas (fried calamari) and buñelos de alga (fried seaweed). For simple, quality seafood with a view, try Cero Stress (Avenida de los Pescadores), a relaxing way to top off a holiday. Beach bums beware: as many locals will tell you, Uruguay’s sun is much stronger than some foreigners are accustomed to, due to the depletion of the ozone layer over the country. Do as the Uruguayans do and avoid sunbathing between noon and 4pm unless you’d like to return home looking (and feeling) like a boiled lobster.

Getting Away

Amigos (www.jazzentreamigos.com), an international jazz festival during the week leading up to Easter. The festival organisers have also begun La Pedrera Jazz Todo el Año, a cycle of jazz shows that takes place all year round. Check the website or Facebook page for upcoming shows. For a taste of Uruguayan cinema, coincide your trip with the international La Pedrera Short Film Festival (www.lapedrerashort filmfestival.com). Now in its 11th edition, the 2015 festival will take place on February 19, 20 and 21, with outdoor screenings open to the public each day. The sleepy beach town really gets going when Carnaval rolls around. The 2015 festivities kick off on February 13, with the following Monday seeing the partying reach its peak as tourists and residents take the celebration to the main street. To connect with other travellers, book a night at Hostal El Estrecho Paradiso (Ruta 10 y calle Principal, 00 598 4479 2026, www. hostalestrechoparadiso.com, $). Cabins and private lodgings are also a popular option. Rentals can be found on sites like Airbnb, Tripadvisor, and the tourism site for La Paloma (www.portaldelapaloma. com.uy), which covers the La Pedrera area as well. Book ahead though, as during peak season these rooms tend to go quickly. Those who prefer to spend the night in a more urbanised area, can opt for La Paloma, just 10 kilometres (6 miles) west of La Pedrera. The coastal town has a sizeable population but still retains the laidback feel of its neighbours.

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LUIS DURAN

Peak season at Punta del Diablo

Day trips

Isla del Descanso

TOP TIP!

including pick-up and meals) has gym classes, a spa and restaurant. Getting there and around Bus number 60 leaves from Plaza Constitución and takes up to 1hr 45mins to reach Tigre. By train, it’s a 50-minute trip from Retiro on the Mitre line. The Tren de la Costa (www. sofse.gob.ar) runs from Olivos (Maipú station) to Tigre and offers scenic views of the river and wealthy suburban neighbourhoods. To take a trip out on the waterways, sign up for a boat tour or fishing trip, or for those on a budget, lanchas colectivas (public river buses) depart regularly from the boat terminal (Estación Fluvial de Tigre, Mitre 305). If you fancy an upper body workout, then kayaks can be rented from Sculls (Paseo Victorica 614, mobile 15 6812 6535, www.sculls. com.ar), which also offers tours. SAN ANTONIO DE ARECO

WANDER THE COBBLED STREETS OF A TRADITIONAL TOWN The quintessential pueblo de campo (country town), San Antonio de Areco makes for a lovely day trip or overnight stay, a mere 113km away from Buenos Aires. Founded in 1728 around a colonial church, the town’s attractive cobbled streets and 19th-century buildings are home to shops, museums and restaurants. The town is a gaucho hub and residents can often be seen sporting berets (boinas) and billowing trousers with chaps (bombachas de gaucho). Strolling around its pretty,

leafy streets, you’re just as likely to pass a cowboy on a horse as a child pedalling a bicycle. If this quiet town has a high season it’s in early November, when a buzz of rural activities leads up to the spirited gaucho festivities of the annual Día de la Tradición on November 10. San Antonio de Areco is ringed by a seemingly limitless expanse of flat, arid pampas. A visit can easily be coupled with a day visit or stay at one of the many surrounding estancias. Eat and drink The pick of the town’s traditional eateries is La Esquina de Merti (Arellano 147, 02326 456705, $$), located on the town square. Stay the night Patio de Moreno (Moreno 251, 02326 455197, www.patiodemoreno.com, $$$) is a charming hotel aimed at the wannabe-gauchos-with-iPhones market, and has a small pool, wine bar and library. For a gaucho experience, El Ombú (Ruta 31, Cuartel 6, 02326 492080, in BA 4737 0436, www. estanciaelombu.com, $$$ per person or US$100 for day visits) occupies a colonial-style mansion 16km from town. Rates include meals, riding and campo-related activities. Getting there San Antonio de Areco is 1hr 30mins by car from BA on Ruta Nacional 8. If you’re travelling by bus, services leave from Retiro bus terminal (1hr 45mins).

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cycling tours to Tigre, where you TIGRE AND THE DELTA transfer from bikes to kayaks to RETREAT TO A LUSH WATER explore the Delta. WORLD JUST BEYOND THE CITY Just an hour by train from central BA, the serene riverside town of Tigre feels Eat and drink a world away from the city. You’re sure Possibly the best restaurant in the town of Tigre, Il Novo María del to enjoy the laid-back atmosphere and Luján (Paseo Victorica 611, 4731 river breeze, whether you’re scanning the stalls of Puerto de Frutos, taking a 9613, www.ilnovomariadellujan.com) has a prime riverside spot. Enjoy the stroll along Boulevard Sáenz Peña tasty seafood outside on the lovely (www.boulevardsaenzpena.com.ar) or patio. A more low-key alternative is exploring the river by boat. florist and café Almacén de Flores Dense with silt, the Delta’s (Boulevard Sáenz Peña 1336, 5197 coffee-coloured waterways are home 4009, www.almacendeflores.com) to 4,000 full-time dwellers. On which, as its name suggests, is as weekends, porteños descend in delightful as a bunch of flowers. To droves, and the river heaves with dine on one of the islands, take motor boats and children the river bus to Beixa splashing on its shores. Flor (Arroyo Abra Vieja Covering more than 7,700 148, mobile 15 5228 square miles, parts of Cultural Tigre 1367, www.beixaflor. which are protected by a Don’t miss the com.ar). The bohemian UNESCO biosphere stunning Museo de complex has stellar reserve, the area lends Arte Tigre (www.mat. meals, its own beach itself to afternoons gov.ar). and cabins to hire if you exploring its vast can’t tear yourself away. network of waterways. With Navegando por el Delta Stay the night (mobile 15 5001 1324, www. navegandoporeldelta.com.ar), you can Tigre Hostel (Avenida San Martín 190, 4749 4034, www.tigrehostel.com.ar, take a full-day tour or a night trip on US$22 dorm, US$70 double), housed in the Bruma, a spacious sailing boat. a restored 1860 posada, has highOn the Isla del Descanso (www. ceilinged dorm rooms and doubles. islaeldescanso.com) you can walk The tree-filled garden is a good spot to through silent gardens full of giant relax with an ice-cold beer. For a spot sculptures, Japanese-style wooden of luxury a 20-minute boat ride from bridges, trees and colourful flowers Tigre, Delta Eco Spa (Ríonative to the region. Urban Biking Carapachay, km 6, 5236 0553, www. (Esmeralda 1084, 4314 2325, www. urbanbiking.com) runs excellent deltaecospa.com, $$$$ per person,

Estancias FOTO RUTA

Getting Away

Discover your inner gaucho at an estancia

For city-dwellers in need of a break, estancias – working ranches that double as retreats – offer everything from horse riding and polo to fishing and gaucho shows. All the estancias recommended here are within a few hours’ drive of Buenos Aires and most offer a día de campo (day excursion) package complete with a hearty asado. One such day excursion is Argentina Polo Day (www.argentinapoloday.com. ar, mobile 15 6738 2422) which offers a full-day polo and estancia experience just outside of Pilar, some 45 minutes from the city. You can watch a game of polo while enjoying empanadas and malbec. And though polo is the main draw, the asado lunch is better than most of the offerings at BA’s numerous parrillas. Along with food and drink, the US$175 package includes a lesson geared to all levels, a polo match between the local club members and transfers to and from the city. If you’re feeling slightly more adventurous, and already have some experience with the sport, sign up for the Polo Clinic. Various classes, games, food and accommodation are included in the cost of US$350 per day for a minimum of two days. Vito, the enthusiastic young founder of

Argentina Polo Fields (mobile 15 6198 2217, www.argentinapolofields.com, from US$160 per person including transport), is determined to provide everyone with the polo experience, regardless of age and skill. A day at this scenic estancia includes an authentic asado with wine tasting, a thorough lesson with a focus on riding techniques, as well as a chance to play in a 4-chukka match. If at the end of the day you’re not ready to leave the campo, the estancia boasts luxurious accommodation with en-suite bedrooms, a library and a swimming pool. For another sleepover option, one of the ritziest estancias around is La Candelaria (Ruta Nacional 205, km 114.5, 02227 494473, www.estanciacandelaria.com, $$ per person or AR$520 día de campo) in Lobos, 115km south-west of BA. Surrounded by 100 hectares of park and forest, the Frenchstyle château looks like something out of a fairytale, and offers massages and a gaucho show. Puesto Viejo Polo Club (Ruta Nacional 6 towards La Plata, in BA 5279 6893, mobile 15 5597 6644, www.puestoviejoestancia.com.ar, $$ per person or US$150 día de campo), 70km from BA, holds daily polo matches, and

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polo or riding lessons can be tailored to ability. This ranch also has a small infinity pool and rustic-chic rooms, making it a pleasant place to unwind for the night after the day’s activities. El Vintén (mobile 15 4972 1888, www.elvinten.com, $$$ per person), 140km north-west of BA, is a lovely guesthouse overlooking the Baradero river. Use of the pool, riding and fishing excursions, as well as delicious meals, wine and champagne are part of the allinclusive package. Families might want to opt for a weekend at La Horqueta (Ruta Nacional 20 to Ranchos, in BA 4777 0150, www.lahorqueta.com, $ per person or AR$380 día de campo), 1 hour 30 minutes from the capital. Fishing and boating can be enjoyed on the nearby lake, while the expansive estancia grounds can be explored on horse or bike. If you’re looking to put more distance between yourself and the capital, complete relaxation is offered at the elegant La Oriental (JB Justo 420, Junín, mobile 15 5146 5210, www.estancia-laoriental. com, $$ per person), 250km northwest of Buenos Aires. The main house of this working ranch is an opulent abode, decorated with 1900s French furniture,

a library, family portraits and a billiard table. Meals made with farm-fresh ingredients are included. Estancia Monte Viejo (Ruta 215, km 51, Brandsen, 02223 441032, in BA 6607 7668, www.estanciamonteviejo. com.ar, $$ per person or AR$420 día de campo) can be found just 78km south of Buenos Aires. Leaving the city doesn’t mean giving up creature comforts; Monte Viejo’s lodgings are equipped with LCD TVs and Nespresso machines, while breakfast includes artisanal pastries. Plenty of activities keep even the most die-hard urbanite entertained, including riding and tours of the beautiful, sprawling estancia, which has been named a site of historic interest. La Margarita (Cacharí km 7, Tapalqué, 02283 420530, in BA 4951 0638, www.estancialamargarita.com, $$ per person or $$ self-catering) lies on verdant plains 280km south of Buenos Aires. Secluded by a forest of cedar trees, the colonial-style estancia comes with rustic decor and period mahogany furniture. Activities range from riding, swimming and cycling to milking cows and feeding chickens. Self-catering is also available, and includes use of the outdoor parilla.

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Resources Photograph: Shooresh Fezoni

Useful information

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Sticking around

173

Map

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Transport and Subte map

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FOTO RUTA

Bus 37, 60, 102. Open 9am-1pm, 2-5.30pm Mon-Thu; 9am-1pm Fri. Canadian Embassy Tagle 2828, entre Avenida Figueroa Alcorta y Juez Tedin, Recoleta (4808 1000/www.argentina.gc.ca). Bus 67, 102. Open 8.30am-12.30pm, 1.305.30pm Mon-Thu; 8.30am-2pm Fri.

Resources

Irish Embassy 6th floor, Avenida del Libertador 1068, entre Ayacucho y Avenida Callao, Recoleta (5787 0801/www. embassyofireland.org.ar). Bus 17, 60, 61, 62, 92. Open 9am-1pm Mon-Fri. New Zealand Embassy 5th floor, Carlos Pellegrini 1427, entre Arroyo y Posadas, Retiro (4328 0747/ www.nzembassy.com/argentina). Bus 10, 17, 59, 60, 92. Open 10am-noon Mon-Fri. For NZ citizens only: 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri.

Tourist and travel information

Many Argentinians claim Avenida 9 de Julio is the widest avenue in the world

Useful information Emergencies

Health

public Hospital de Clínicas (Avenida Córdoba 2351, 5950 8000, www.hospitaldeclinicas.uba.ar). For an English-speaking gynaecologist, contact Dr Claudia María Battista (3rd floor, Arenales 1611, Recoleta, 4811 6127). For back and neck woes, see Dr Craig Ingram Penny at Family Chiropractic in Belgrano (Office A, 5th floor, Gorostiaga 1664, 4779 9121, www.familychiropractic.com.ar). If your feet require the services of a podiatrist, try Point Centro de Podología y Ortopedia (Perón 4191, 4866 5885, www.centrodepodologia. com.ar) in Almagro.

The standard of medical care in Buenos Aires is generally high. For emergency or general medical needs, try Recoleta’s Hospital Alemán (Pueyrredón 1640, 4827 7000, www. hospitalaleman.org.ar), which has English-speaking doctors and is one of the cleanest and best hospitals in the city. There are also English-speaking doctors at the Hospital Británico (Perdriel 74, 4309 6400, www. hospitalbritanico.org.ar) in Constitución, and at Almagro’s Hospital Italiano (Juan Domingo Perón 4190, 4959 0200, www. hospitalitaliano.org.ar). Walk-in appointments at these private hospitals start from AR$280. Hospital Argerich (Pi y Margall 750, 4121 0700, www.hospitalargerich.org. ar) in La Boca, is one of the city’s better public hospitals; or make for the immense

If you need emergency dental treatment, you can call the Servicio de Urgencias Odontológicas at 4805 6407, or for the nearest public hospital, visit www.buenosaires.gov.ar/ areas/salud and click on ‘odontología’. Drs Gustavo & Marisol Telo (Office B, 2nd floor, Laprida 1621, 4828 0821, mobile 15 5400 5999, www. dental-argentina.com) offer emergency care as well as cosmetic treatments and implants. Dental Square (Office F, 1st floor, Cabello 3181, 5778 0256, www.dentalsquareargentina.com) offers similar services, and Drs Leonardo Pelcman & Martín Pelcman (Office A, 10th floor, Avenida Santa Fe 3444, 4821 9070, www.drspelcman.com.ar) are also recommendable dentists. English is spoken at all three clinics.

Fire 100; also 4383 2222 or 4304 2222. Medical emergencies 107 to call an ambulance. Police 911; 101; also 4370 5911.

HOSPITALS AND DOCTORS

DENTISTS

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SEXUAL HEALTH

Pregunta SIDA runs a free HIV/AIDS helpline (0800 333 3444, open 6ammidnight Mon-Fri; 9am-9pm Sat, Sun) with advice on general sexual health issues and where to go for treatment. Fundación Huésped (Ángel Peluffo 3932, 0800 222 4837, www.huesped.org. ar) runs a helpline and conducts research into AIDS. Contraception can be purchased at pharmacies without a prescription, or acquired free of charge at public hospitals and health centres. The national sexual health programme also runs a free helpline. (0800 222 3444, www.msal.gov.ar/saludsexual).

Embassies and consulates American Embassy Avenida Colombia 4300, entre Sarmiento y Cerviño, Palermo (5777 4533/argentina.usembassy.gov). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 37, 67, 130, 152, 160. Open 8.30-11.30am, 2-4pm Mon-Fri. Visas by appointment only. Australian Embassy Villanueva 1400, y Zabala, Belgrano (4779 3500/www.argentina.embassy. gov.au). Bus 15, 42, 55, 59. Open 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri. British Embassy & Consulate Luis Agote 2412, y Guido, Recoleta (4808 2200/ukinargentina.fco.gov.uk).

The English version of the city government’s tourist website is www.buenosaires.gob.ar/en. A free information line is open from 8am to 8pm daily (0800 555 0016). For customised itineraries while in the city, contact BA Cultural Concierge (baculturalconcierge.com), or for tickets, tours and airport transfers, see Landing Pad BA (landingpadba. com). Loli Delger at The Hummingbird Trip (Uriarte 1942, 3227 1111, www.thehummingbirdtrip. com) organises fantastic tours of BA and beyond, as do the friendly folk at travel agency Say Hueque (5258 8740, www.sayhueque.com).

Safety tips

Continued economic hardship in Buenos Aires has been linked to a rise in street crime, but with a little common sense and a few basic precautions, visitors should be able to stay out of trouble. Avoid pulling out a wallet stacked with bills, and try not to flash expensive jewellery and cameras. Leave non-essential cards and ID at home, loop a leg through bag straps while in restaurants, keep an eye on belongings on public transport (the Subte in particular) and always use radio taxis (see p176). Although violent crime is rare, bag snatching and slitting, sadly, are not. If you are actually threatened, hand over your goods calmly: BA has a gun problem. Distraction thefts are common, such as where one person sprays a mustard-like substance on you while another ‘kindly’ offers to clean it off – and then clears off with your stuff.

Police stations Tourists can report crimes at the police station in the neighbourhood in which the incident happened, or at the Comisaría del Turista, where

English-speaking staff is on hand to receive reports of crimes 24 hours a day (Avenida Corrientes 436, Microcentro, 0800 999 5000).

Telephones Dialling & codes All Buenos Aires landline numbers consist of eight digits. To call a mobile phone number, add 15 before the eight-digit number. From overseas, dial your country’s international dialling code then 54 11 and the eight-digit number, or for a mobile phone, dial 54 9 11 and then the last eight digits. Other useful numbers Directory information 110. International operator 000. Mobile phones The main mobile phone companies in BA are Claro, Movistar and Personal. Pay-as-you-go SIM cards (chips) can be purchased in phone shops and kiosks.

Money

LOST/STOLEN CREDIT CARDS

American Express 0810 555 2639. Diners Club 0810 444 2484. MasterCard 4348 7070. Visa 4379 3333.

There are dozens of institutes offering Spanish classes in BA, from outfits like Pensaris (Office 4, 2nd floor, Alsina 495, 5218 7735, www.pensaris.com.ar), which caters more to business clients, to International Training (5th floor, Vuelta de Obligado 1808, 4788 1788, www.ih-buenosaires.com), which has free classes with trainee teachers throughout the year. In Palermo, Ayres de Español (Gurruchaga 1851, 4834 6340, www.ayresdespanol. com.ar) has private as well as small group classes, as do downtown IBL (Office 328, 3rd floor, Galería Güemes, Florida 165, 4331 0033, www.ibl.com. ar) and Ibero Spanish School (Uruguay 150, 2057 1116, www. iberospanish.com). Many schools, such as LV Studio (Darregueyra 2394, 4637 9442, www.lvstudioweb.com), offer varied activities like wine tasting. Expanish (Juan Domingo Perón 698, 5252 3040, www.expanish.com) has some of the best facilities in town, and you can combine your studies with dance classes or football matches. VOS (Marcelo T de Alvear 1459, 4812 1140, www.vosbuenosaires.com) offers conversational classes focused on local slang. The University of Buenos Aires’s Laboratorio de Idiomas (25 de Mayo 221, 4343 5981, www.idiomas. filo.uba.ar) has an excellent Spanishfor-foreigners programme. To organise an intercambio (language exchange) with native speakers, create and post your profile on the popular website Conversation Exchange (www.conversationexchange.com) and sit back as the offers roll in. Or check out Spanglish’s (5505 4113) wildly popular language exchange events that take place a few times a week in spots all over town.

Sticking around If, like so many before you, you find you’re just not ready to leave the bifes and the beautiful people behind, the following resources should help get you started in your quest to go from just passing through to permanente.

Apartment rentals Don’t be put off by the initial complications involved in renting in BA: if you find yourself without a garantía (a guarantee from a local who can vouch for you should you run out of cash) and a DNI (national identity card), and are reluctant to tie yourself to a minimum two-year contract, rest assured that there are other options. Short- and long-term rental rates can be negotiated, though you’ll very likely have to pay more than a porteño would. Prices tend to be quoted in dollars, but that doesn’t mean you need to pay in dollars. Insist on paying in pesos at a fair exchange rate, and even for short-term rentals, ask for a contract.

To search independently for an apartment or a room in shared accommodation, trawl through the Complicated red tape makes attaining popular local Craigslist (buenosaires. residency status in Argentina tricky, en.craigslist.org) which is in both meaning that plenty of foreigners English and Spanish, the Spanishresort to the common, though frowned language Comparto Depto (www. upon, practice of renewing the 90-day compartodepto.com) or Spare Rooms tourist visa granted on entering the Buenos Aires (3221 1798, www. country by popping across the river to spareroomsba.com). Uruguay. Technically, this is still legal, If you want to rent a furnished flat as long as you’re not working in for anything from a few nights to Argentina. For those who want to stick several months, and would rather go around and make it all above board, through an agency, there are a there are a number of options, number of companies that can including proving a private help. Rates vary greatly, but income (from a foreign rent you can expect them to start or pension, for example), at around US$700 per month. Rental prices taking a university course, or Agencies generally charge can often be getting a job that will commission and require a negotiated. sponsor your visa. There’s deposit, and some also offer plenty of information to be services including transfers, city found through the Immigration tours, Spanish classes, car rental and Authorities (www.migraciones.gov. even concierges. Note that not all ar). Or if all else fails, you can always accept payment by credit card. set your sights on marriage. The fine For Rent Argentina (4822 5912, for overstaying your visa is AR$300, www.4rentargentina.com), ByT which is paid upon leaving the country. Argentina (4876 5000, www. bytargentina.com) and House in Buenos Aires (4706 1151, www. houseinbuenosaires.com) can arrange lets in fully furnished apartments all Cash-in-hand, contract-free positions over the city, from just the basics to are relatively easy to come by in BA. truly palatial digs. My Space BA Jobs in the service industry and (4793 3496, www.myspaceba.com) teaching English are the main options, and Oasis BA (4777 3692, www. and adverts regularly feature on sites oasiscollections.com) tend towards the Craigslist (www.craigslist.org) and more luxurious end of the scale. The Jobs Abroad (www.jobsabroad.com). latter also owns the Oasis Clubhouse Zona Jobs (www.zonajobs.com.ar) offering three rooms to rent and use of and CompuTrabajo (www. one of BA’s loveliest pools. BA House computrabajo.com.ar) are other (4803 3147, www.bahouse.com.ar) has sources. Wages are not generous, and flats in some of the city’s smarter you may need to patch together hours barrios, as well as in Uruguay’s Punta at different places to make ends meet. del Este. Buenos Aires Habitat English speakers are often required for (4815 8662, www.buenosaireshabitat. telemarketing positions, but if your com) offers short-term rentals and can skills allow you to work for companies also provide property management and abroad, you’ll have the advantage of advice on purchasing properties. A earning in a currency other than the number of other businesses, such as peso. Remote workers can stave off BAires Apartments (4833 3319, feelings of isolation by opting to rent www.bairesapartments.com) have desk space at Areatres (5353 0333, properties for sale as well as for rent. www.areatresworkplace.com), a For a full-service apart-hotel in the well-equipped, modern work space in heart of Palermo Hollywood with a Palermo designed for freelancers. If sauna, pool and bilingual staff, try teaching English takes your fancy, you Cimma Suites (Paraguay 5326, 2054 can obtain an internationally 2898, www.cimmasuites.com.ar), or recognised qualification at check out our selection of apart-hotels International Training (see left) or on page 160. Íbero Argentina (6023 8375, www. iberotefl.com).

Immigration

TOP TIP!

Work

Buying property

Some of Buenos Aires’s biggest estate agents are Bullrich (6009 3500, www. ibullrich.com.ar) and Goldstein Propiedades (4865 5445, www. goldsteinpropiedades.com). Giesso (4361 1887, www.giessoprop.com.ar) specialise in San Telmo properties, while Ojo Propiedades (4832 4040, www.ojopropiedades.com) is based in Palermo and also do rentals. Meanwhile, popular website Solo Dueños (www.soloduenos.com.ar) cuts out the middleman, putting potential buyers in touch with property owners directly.

Networking

While you might have arrived in BA with the idea of escaping English speakers and working on your Spanish, there’s no harm in knowing where to look when you need some cultural familiarity, a helping hand settling in or advice on where to buy peanut butter. Language exchange groups like Spanglish (see left) are good ways of meeting other English speakers, as are organisations like BA Expats (www.baexpats.org), CouchSurfing (www.couchsurfing. org) and InterNations (www. internations.org/buenosaires), which are popular with locals and foreigners.

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Resources

Most banks have ATMs, and machines can also be found inside some petrol stations. They usually charge a fee (around US$6) and will use the official exchange rate, which is likely to differ considerably from the unofficial or blue dollar rate. Note that for most foreign cards the maximum withdrawal is AR$1000 at a time and ATMs may run short of cash at the beginning of the month and indeed, at any other time, so set some aside for emergencies. Opening a bank account is difficult for foreigners without local ID. To receive money from overseas, use Forexcambio (Marcelo T de Alvear 540, 4010 2000, www.forexar.com.ar) or Western Union (0800 800 3030, www.westernunion.com.ar). If you have a US bank account you can receive pesos at an exchange rate closer to that of the black market through Xoom (Libertad 1057, Recoleta, and various locations, www.xoom.com). The same can be done if you have a European bank account through Azimo (www.azimo. com). If you need to change money, an official casa de cambio (currency exchange) is Metrópolis (5554 5800, www.metropoliscf.com) with locations across the city, including at Florida 334 (5199 0844). Since the government implemented strict conditions on the purchase of foreign currencies, demand for US dollars has skyrocketed on the black market where US$1 can fetch AR$15 and above. Cuevas (caves), which exchange money at the black market rate, are the city’s unofficial bureaux de change and are often disguised as jewellery or souvenir stores; many are dotted around calle Florida in Microcentro.

Language study

Transport By taxi or remise

Taxis in Buenos Aires are black and yellow with a red light in the front window if available. They are reasonably priced and plentiful. Visitors should be wary, though, of being taken for a long ride or being robbed by an unlicensed driver. For this reason, radio taxis or remises (licensed minicabs) are the best bet. Look for the words ‘radio taxi’ and the name and number of the company on back passenger doors. Even better, call a taxi (you will need some Spanish to book a cab by phone, though hotel and restaurant staff will usually be happy to help). Reputable companies include Pídalo (4956 1200) and Radio Taxi Premium (4374 6666). If you have a smartphone, you can reserve a taxi through SaferTaxi (www.safertaxi. com), and the Easy Taxi (4776 3658, www.easytaxi.com.ar) phone app is also helpful in minimising post-club waiting in the cold. The latter provides information on the closest taxi and the time it will take to reach you.Taxi meters start at AR$14.30 (AR$17.10 after 10pm), and since you’re not expected to tip, you should receive change to the nearest AR10¢. Keep an eye out for dishonest drivers, who may switch your pristine bill for a fake, then accuse you of passing it. For trips outside the city, remises are best. They look like private cars and don’t run on meters, so agree on a price before setting out. Try Remises Via (4777 8888) or Remises Recoleta Vip (4983 0544).

By bus

Resources

City buses are called colectivos. Fares are AR$3.00, AR$3.25 or AR$3.50 for journeys within the capital when paid with a Sube card, which can be topped up at Subte stations and some kiosks. Pick up a card for AR$20 at locations listed here: www.sube.gob.ar; note that you’ll need to show your passport. Without a Sube card, the fare costs AR$5-$6 and must be paid with coins directly into the machine. To find your way around the city by bus – recommended, as they’re cheap, frequent and reliable – buy a Guía T, a pocket-size bus guide found at most newsstands. Or visit mapa.buenosaires. gob.ar, an excellent resource for planning your trip by public transport or bike. Terminal de Omnibus More than 80 long-distance coach lines operate between Retiro and destinations throughout Argentina and as far away as Peru and Colombia. There are typically two types of service to choose from: semi-cama (half bed) and coche-cama (bed seats), the latter often called ejecutivo. Tickets can be purchased at the bus station; some tickets can be bought through authorised vendors around the city or

in some cases online or over the phone. In high season (Dec-Feb, Easter and July), tickets should be bought well in advance. For long-distance bus schedules and to purchase tickets, see www.plataforma10.com. Avenida Antártida Argentina, y Calle 10, Retiro (Passenger information 4310 0700/www.tebasa.com.ar). Subte C, Retiro/bus 6, 23, 93, 130, 152.

Driving

Driving in Buenos Aires is a sure-fire way to raise your blood pressure, with high-speed, freestyle driving a favourite sport. In theory, priority is given to cars crossing other streets from the right; in practice, avoid assuming anything whatsoever. To hire a car, you need to be over 21, with a driver’s licence. Prices start at around AR$640 per day. Major companies will allow you to take the Buenos Aires’s underground car out of the country if you sign train network (the Subte) is a contract in front of a quick and easy to use and public notary, which costs runs from 5am to 10.30pm around AR$300. You must To hail a taxi, hold (8am to 10pm Sundays). It have at least third-party your arm out horizon- insurance (seguro de has four lines which tally. To signal the branch out from the city responsabilidad civil), but bus you’re waiting for, it’s sensible to take out centre and two that run wave it higher in laterally. A single journey fully comprehensive. For the air. costs AR$4.50 with a Sube car hire, contact Avis card and AR$5 without, which (www.avis.com.ar), Baires can be paid at the ticket booth. Hold Rent A Car (www.bairesrentacar. on to your belongings – theft is com.ar) or Hertz (www.milletrentacar. common. com.ar).

By Subte

TOP TIP!

By train Trains connecting the northern suburbs with the city centre are more modern – and safer – than the often shockingly badly maintained carriages serving the south. Retiro Trains run north and west from Retiro, which is really three stations in one: Mitre, Belgrano and San Martín. From Mitre, there are trains to Tigre via San Isidro. Fares range from AR$2 to AR$11.50 in cash, or AR$1 to AR$5.80 with a Sube card. Avenida Ramos Mejía 1358, Retiro.

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Assisted Buenos Aires is far from being disabled-friendly. Pavements are uneven and wheelchair ramps are few and far between, the Subte is hard to access and few buses go super-bajo (ultra-low). There are, however, some transport companies that can assist. QRV – Transportes Especiales QRV has a number of adapted minibuses for wheelchair users, equipped with microphones and guides. Call for prices. It’s advisable to book 24 hours ahead (4306 6635/www. qrvtransportes.com.ar).

By air Ezeiza (Aeropuerto Ministro Pistarini) Most international flights arrive and depart from this airport, except some to and from Uruguay, Paraguay, Brazil and Chile (see below). There is no rail link between Ezeiza and downtown BA, but the number 8 bus, which leaves from Avenida de Mayo, will drop you off at the airport. Manuel Tienda León shuttle buses (4315 5115, www.tiendaleon.com.ar) cost AR$119-$129 per person and leave every 30 minutes between 6am and midnight and hourly between midnight and 6am. Depending on where you live, for an extra AR$40, a connecting remis can take you to your door. Allow 50 minutes for travel between the city and airport, and more than an hour at rush hour. For a taxi from the airport, use one from the approved company kiosks, which charge around AR$250. For an airport transfer in English, contact Buenos Aires Taxis (mobile 15 4793 3496, www.bataxis.com). Ezeiza, 35km from city centre (5480 2500/www.aa2000.com.ar). Aeroparque Jorge Newbery ‘Aeroparque’, as Jorge Newbery airport is known, is the arrival and departure point for domestic flights, as well as those to and from Uruguay and occasionally Brazil, Chile and Paraguay. It’s located on Costanera Norte and there is a taxi rank at the airport exit. The journey from the city centre to Aeroparque takes about 15 minutes (though it can be longer during rush hour) and costs around AR$100. Avenida Costanera Rafael Obligado, entre La Pampa y Sarmiento, Costanera Norte (5480 6111/ www.aa2000.com.ar).