The Waterside Inn - 2016

THE ULTIMATE CUVÉE ROSÉ

photographe Iris Velghe

I was taken back to the moment it all began when my brother Albert and I proudly accepted the British Travel & Hospitality Hall of Fame Award earlier this year. We may be in our dotage, but our passion remains undimmed! As you will read on page 12, we have retreated as patrons of the Roux Scholarship but we relish the prospect of our sons steering it to discover the next generation of great British chefs. Likewise, I relish my role as global ambassador, travelling far and wide but merely magnifying the masterful consistency of my son Alain along with Diego and team working diligently, daily, attending to every detail.

Cutting a new trend in culinary cabaret, we held a sell-out dinner dance with guests dressed to kill and as another beckons, I believe the next StrictlyComeDancing champions may well come from our midst! Caviar and truffles starred at another evening with our friend and supplier of 30 years, Laura King, bringing along three 2kg cans of caviar, joining Alain to dazzle guests with stories of source-to-plate discovery and provenance.

And I am bursting to introduce my new baby, Le Miedzor, in my hometown of Crans-Montana in Switzerland. It’s a chic bistro, stunningly located next to the golf course with mountains beyond. My wife, Robyn, has skilfully ensured no detail is spared to create a warm and contemporary interior, and we have introduced a new team of Roux protégés! My head chef at Le Miedzor, Stéphane, alongside the director of the dining room, Ludovico, and assistant, Magali, all hail from The Waterside Inn. I love my team, they are like family to me!

It seems like only yesterday that my brother and I launched The Waterside Inn and we welcomed Sir Terry Wogan as one of our very fir st clients, quickly becoming one of our dearest friends. I know you will join me in missing this most gentle of British icons.

So friends, please relax… enjoy a year in the life of The Waterside Inn and let us help you decide when you would like to make your next visit…

CONTRIBUTORS

Multi-award-winning food writer,author and the editor of Waitrose Food, William is also the proud editor of The Waterside Inn Magazine 2016

Personal assistant to the Roux family in Bray for four years,Lee,who is based atTheWaterside Inn,consulted across this magazine.

Matt is regarded as one of the world’s best food and travelphotographers,which is why we commissioned him to take all the pictures (unless stated) in this issue

GLOBAL AMBASSADOR Michel Roux OBE

Life continues apace and as I peruse our beautiful magazine, this year tracing a seasonal path, I would like to share with you my great passion – that of legacy, leadership and family.

William Sitwell

Lee Whitlock

Matt Munro

09

WELCOME

21

NEWS

NOTES News, views, historic highlights... and a few international awards. Read about what’s been happening in the life of The Waterside Inn, its staff and the Roux f amily over the past year

48

FIRST PERSON Diego Masciaga tells us what it’s like to be the man behind the smile

AUTUMN

54

SPRING

SPRING INGREDIENTS Usher in the year’s first harvest with asparagus, French beans and freshly podded peas

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61

AUTUMN INGREDIENTS Mushrooms, pumpkins and spinach are among the season’s generous harvest

OCTAVIAN WINES A revealing portrait of where The Waterside Inn’s wines are stored

AUTUMN FOOD Michel Roux indulges his love of shooting, cooking and the countryside

24

26

30

PROFILE From sous chef to head chef, Fabrice Uhr yn reflects on a glorious life in food

CHOCOLATE Alain Roux on the intr icate art of making desserts and Easter eggs

INTERIORS Robyn Roux and designer Bernie de Le Cuona talk fur nishings, style and moving into neutral gear

TRAVEL

67 ESCAPE The Datai Langkawi in Malaysia is a tr uly luxurious place to unwind

WINTER

76

36

INTERVIEW We discuss robots and bugs with philanthropic entrepreneur Dame Stephanie Shirley

SUMMER

39

43

SUMMER INGREDIENTS Tomatoes in all shapes and sizes and ber ries are on the menu now

SUMMER FOOD Alain takes the Roux family out on the River Thames for his specially prepared picnic and shares his recipes

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WINTER INGREDIENTS Time for comfor t food, including roast pheasant, root vegetables, purple sprouting broccoli and sprouts

CHRISTMAS ’Tis the season to be jolly at The Waterside. No wonder guests keep returning

COCKTAILS Head bartender Valentino Baú mixes three easy but warming and impressive drinks

BACK PAGE

82

THE CHALLENGE The iconic cooking battle

Editor William Sitwell

Creative director Adele Chidwick

Managing editor KarenYates

Account director Jeffrey Bird

Group production Jo Mead

Chief executive Andrew Hirsch

On behalf of T he Waterside Inn Michel Roux OBE,Alain Roux, Diego Masciaga,LeeWhitlock

For reservations, please call 01628 620691 or email reservations@waterside-inn.co.uk.

The Waterside Inn, Ferry Road, Bray, Berkshire SL6 2AT.

View the magazine online at waterside-inn.co.uk/magazine

When you have finished reading your magazine please share it with others

TheWaterside Inn magazine 2016 is published on behalf of T he Waterside Inn by John Brown. Please address any correspondence to John Brown, 8 Baldwin Street, London EC1V 9NU. Tel 020 7565 3000 johnbrownmedia.com

NOTES

LUNCH IS SERVED: OUR MENU GASTRONOMIQUE

The daily, seasonal menu gastronomique comprising classically French dishes with modern twists really is the most fantastic value.

Enjoy two courses for £49.50 or three for £62 Wednesday to Friday, or at the weekend three courses for £79.50. Prices include canapés, petits fours, coffee, service and VAT. The menu gastronomique is extremely popular with regular clients, so year-round early booking is advised.

As Diego Masciaga explains: “Dishes are created each morning based on market availability of the freshest ingredients, allowing guests to choose a lighter option with a truly seasonal feel.”

Left:roast turbot fillet with a matignon of vegetables,carabinero prawn and chicken jus with shiitake mushrooms

Truffles, caviar and a dance

In March 2016, The Waterside staged two glittering events that offered even more than four-course menus, matching wines and champagne. A dinner dance proved so popular that another was arranged for October and it sold out within 90 minutes. “Our discerning guests appreciate the opportunity to enjoy the glamour and music offered by such an occasion,” said Diego. Prior to this, a truffle and caviar evening was staged. Guests were treated to the finest examples of these luxuries and an intimate audience with Laura King of King’s Fine Foods, who introduced each caviar dish. Alain Roux regaled guests with his experience of the black truffle, his favourite ingredient. “I love the way these warty nuggets growing underground as humble fungi are prized and traded like diamonds,” he said. “They’re stunning, natural and utterly delicious!”

ALAIN ROUX

WATCH VIDEOS ABOUT THE WATERSIDE INN’S HISTORY, SEE THE CHEFS COOKING AND DIEGO GREETING GUESTS, READ ABOUT THE ROUX SCHOLARSHIP 2016 AND MUCH MORE AT WATERSIDE-INN.CO.UK

JOHN AND SHARRON DERRICK, GUESTS

The menu gastronomique offers delicious food and world-class service with immaculate attention to detail in a lively but relaxed environment”

“

Our daily menu showcases ingredients that are in season only fleetingly,sourced from our trusted local suppliers and prepared à la minute with creative flair,yet grounded in French classical tradition”

“

MARTIN GRAY, GUEST

Inspiring food,exquisitely cooked,idyllic setting and perfect service”

“

MARTIN VANDERSTEEN, GUEST

The dishes are always light,varied,beautifully prepared and presented”

Michel in Asia

In March 2016, Michel flew to the Mandarin Oriental Taipei in Taiwan with Raj Holuss, Alex Beard, Simone Tricarico (former sous chef at The Waterside Inn) and Frédéric Poulette, assistant manager. Across six days, five-course lunches and seven-course dinners, all with wine pairings, were served to 450 people, a sellout record for a promotion at this flagship hotel.

Michel and his team also found time for a media lunch for 34 with interviews given to GQ, Marie Claire, Esquire and TaiwanTatler to name but a few.

In February, Michel was also invited to The Datai Langkawi, Malaysia, by its general manager Arnaud Girodon to stage a culinary promotion. Michel was joined by a couple of members of The Waterside Inn kitchen and dining room team, who served five-course dinners and wine pairings. Mr Girodon said: “What my team gained in such a short time was better than years of training.” Read more from page 67

WEDDING BELLS

Congratulations to Jordi Albacar Fumado, The Waterside Inn’s maître d’hôtel, who married Mickella Dawkins on 31 May 2016. “I will always remember how beautiful my wife looked walking down the aisle,” said Jordi. “I fell in love with her all over again.”

FAME AT LAST

Michel and Albert Roux were inducted into the 2016 British Travel & Hospitality Hall of Fame at an awards dinner at The Dorchester hotel in London in April 2016. The Hall of Fame honours outstanding business achievement and inspirational leadership. Michel said: “As a young apprentice, I could not have dreamed I would one day receive such an honour from my peers and I owe so much to those who have taught, inspired and supported me.”

Le Miedzor bistro-bar is now open in Michel’s home town of Crans-Montana, Switzerland. Executive chef Stéphane Colliet worked for five years with Michel at The Waterside Inn and another three at La Maison 1888,Vietnam, where Michel held a consultancy. “I don’t need pictures on the walls,” he says. “I just look out of the windows. I eat there while my chef guards une table gourmande, a beautiful place next to a golf course and mountains.”

Most memorable moment? I once told Mr Roux that I hadn’t removed the string used to tie the beef. He went straight over to the table to retrieve the string, no doubt with an apology and a smile. He was always a complete professional! What lessons did you learn? How to be organised and efficient, with great attention to detail. Now Chef-owner of Restaurant 1861 in Cross Ash, Monmouthshire.

Date for your diary

JoinAlain and Michel at Gleneagles, 20 and 21 October 2016

For the first time outside The Waterside Inn, Alain and his father, plus first Roux scholar Andrew Fairlie, will create a special six-course dinner with matching wines at Gleneagles in Scotland. “We are delighted,” says Andrew. “This is the first time Alain and Michel have left the comfort of their own surroundings to cook together, which makes it an extra special occasion. Join us for what promises to be a one-off culinary extravaganza.” To book,call 01764 694267 or email reservations@andrewfairlie.co.uk

Ratio of employees to guests:1:1

AN UPDATE ON OUR GLOBAL AMBASSADOR

Michel’s room with a view

Simon King, commis chef 1992 to 1995

FACTFILE

TheWaterside Inn

WHEREARETHEYNOW?

NOTES

Meet the experts

Above:(l-r) Michel Roux Jr,honorary president of the judges Pierre Gagnaire, Alain Roux andAndrew Fairlie. Below:Alain assesses Harry Guy

HARRY GUY IS ROUX SCHOLAR 2016

Congratulations to this year’s winner of the scholarship,which now has Michel Roux Jr andAlain as joint chairmen of the judges

Harry Guy, 27, beat five other finalists to win the Roux Scholarship 2016. The winner was announced at a ceremony at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in London before an audience of prestigious guests, top chefs and leading figures from the world of hospitality. The event was streamed live on the Roux Scholarship website.

Harry said: “It means everything to win! To be in close contact with the Roux family is invaluable and will really push my career forward as it establishes me in the industry.”

The winner, who previously worked at L’Enclume in Cumbria, received £6,000 and an invitation to cook and train for up to three months under the supervision of a leading chef at a prestigious three-Michelin-star restaurant anywhere in the world. He chose to take his stage at Saison in San Francisco and joins chef patron Joshua Skenes and his team later in 2016.

Harry will meet with his fellow scholars and Michel, Alain, judge Brian Turner and first scholar Andrew Fairlie during the next Roux Scholarship educational trip, to San Francisco and Napa Valley, in November 2016. Every two years the scholars accompany Michel on inspiring international culinary trips. So far, they have visited Scotland, Italy, Dubai, Germany, Japan and New York. During this year’s trip to the Napa Valley and San Francisco they will also dine at Benu, the city’s other three-star restaurant.

At the 33rd national final in April, finalists were asked to prepare and serve Norfolk black

chicken cooked en croûte, cardoon gratin and tarragon sauce. The six chefs had three hours to cook the Escoffier-inspired recipe in front of the judges, who this year also included James Martin, David Nicholls and previous winners Simon Hulstone and André Garrett.

Michel Roux Jr said: “At first sight it could seem like this was a straightforward and simple dish. However, there were a lot of potential slip-ups and Harry’s dish showed exceptional all-round skills.”

Alain added: “Although it may sound simple, we chose this dish because it’s technically challenging due to all the component parts.”

Celebrated chef Pierre Gagnaire led the judging in his new role as honorary president of the judges. He said: “It is a great honour to be a part of this event. I have huge respect for the Roux brothers, who were the pioneers of French cuisine in Great Britain.”

All change

This year, Alain and Michel Roux Jr took over the Roux Scholarship from their fathers, Michel and Albert, who are now proud patrons of the Roux legacy. Alain said: “It’s a daunting mantle to assume stewardship of the scholarship, the proudest legacy of my dad and uncle Albert, but my cousin Michel and I are excited and inspired to take it on. Michel Roux Jr added: “Exciting times ahead with the patriarchs stepping down and some little changes in the judging panel. Still very much the same ethos and standards. After all, it is the Roux Scholarship!” Read more and watch the ceremony at rouxscholarship.co.uk

Most memorable moments? I have many fond memories of well-known people, but the golden rule is discretion. What lessons did you learn? Mr Roux, Alain and Diego showed me a great example of running a family business with passion and the painstaking attention to detail needed when preparing for the curtains to open and the show to begin. Now General manager of Park Hyatt Tokyo.

Hervé Mazella, demi chef and assistant maître d’hôtel, 2002 to 2004

WHEREARETHEYNOW?

An English Natural Mineral Water of Exceptional Taste from The Hildon Estate in the Test Valley, Hampshire.

Proud supplier of The Waterside Inn & sponsor of The Roux Scholarship.

Follow us:

CREAM OF DEVON

If you’re looking for somewhere chic to stay in Devon, we recommend Prestoller House in Axminster, run by Caroline Fox, Michel Roux’s former PA for 11 years.

Caroline looks after her guests in the same discerning manner as at The Waterside Inn, while her partner Adrian Gavin’s locally sourced full English breakfast will set you up for the day! Prestoller House has so impressed guests it has won TripAdvisor’s Certificate of Excellence for two years running. You can book a room at prestollerbedandbreakfast.co.uk

Praise for chef

GREAT NEWS FOR RAJ

Congratulations to Rajkumar Holuss, our first sous chef (pictured above with his award and wife Madhvi Hollus, our senior head housekeeper), who won second prize in the 49th annual Le Prix Culinaire International Le Taittinger final in Paris in November 2015. One of the judges was Michel Roux Jr and the results were announced at a Taittinger dinner at Parisian club Cercle de l’Union Interaillée. The Taittinger contest is open to chefs of any nationality working in France, Holland, Belgium, Luxembourg, Switzerland or the UK.

On hearing the news, Michel Roux Sr said it took him back to 1971, when he achieved the same result in the competition.

AWARD FOR DIEGO

We are proud to announce that Diego has won the Maestro delle Arti, the highest honour in his field in his home country. This new award is dedicated to Italians recognised as excellent in artistic categories including hospitality.

The ceremony took place in June 2016 in Milan, but as Diego was unable to attend the prize was presented to him in Bray (pictured above). Felicitazioni, Diego! Read more about Diego on page 48 and see him in action at waterside-inn.co.uk

Luke Mangan, commis and demi chef, 1990 to 1993

Most memorable moment? Being promoted to demi chef after just 12 months, aged 22.

What lessons did you learn? Never to do anything just for money. Mr Roux was a great mentor and under him, at the age of only 20, I learned discipline and the true value of hard work, something for which I’ll be forever grateful.

Now Chef, restaurateur and owner of The Luke Mangan Group.

Return guests per year: 65 per cent

{TV flashback!}

In the 1980s, cookery shows were rare. As with London’s first Michelin-star restaurant, Le Gavroche, which opened in 1967, Michel and Alain proved ahead of their time with their successful BBC television series At HomeWith the Roux Brothers, broadcast in 1988 to an audience of two million. A cookery book based on the series and a video collection followed.

GREAT MINDS

Simple Minds perform live at this year’s GroceryAid President’s dinner. The event, held every September at The Waterside Inn, regularly raises funds in excess of £145,000 for GroceryAid (groceryaid.org.uk), a charity Michel has been pleased to patronise for more than a decade. This year, the dinner raises funds for WorKing Options (workingoptions.co.uk), which helps stateschool sixth formers realise their potential.

Over 12 episodes, viewers were given tips and enjoyed watching the fraternal rivalry, arguably key to their ever-greater culinary exploits. Towatch all episodes of At Home with the Roux Brothers, go to waterside-inn.co.uk and click onYouTube

FACTFILE

TheWaterside Inn

PHOTOGRAPH:STEPHEN MORRIS

WHEREARETHEYNOW?

The Push-fit People

John Guest is a British manufacturer that designs and makes push-fit fittings and pipe for a wide variety of industries including plumbing, automotive, beverage dispense, and telecommunication markets around the world.

From the pipe connections in people’s homes, the pouring of beer in pubs up and down the land, and the engines of a wide array of popular cars, John Guest fittings are often at the core of the engineering process.

For over fifty years, John Guest has manufactured and developed products using resources based entirely in the UK and remained loyal to a consistent strategy of quality, innovation and growth.

John Guest’s market and geographic reach continues to expand as the company proudly represents British manufacturing around the world.

THE HEAD SAYS

THE HEART SAYS

Maranello Sales

As an Official

truly unique and

department

selection

Maranello

Join us to celebrate the very best of every season, starting with spring’s warmer days when guests venture outside to relax by the river

A YEAR AT THE WATERSIDE INN

Some of the finest dining on earthis not on earth.

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Introducing spring’s finest

INGREDIENTS

FRENCH BEANS

Long green beans are prolific at this time of year and are delicious simply steamed and served with a little butter, salt and pepper. Asparagus is another key spring ingredient and appears in numerous dishes from April to June. Steamed, boiled, chargrilled, in salad or soup, the choice is endless.

What to do with spring onions

Young and pungent spring onions are a perfect addition to many cold dishes.Finely chop or slice to give a spicy note to salsas and salads.

SPRING

Best of the season VEGETABLES

Any chef will tell you how excited they are to see the year’s first delicate green shoots poking through the soil after a long, cold winter. Spring signals the start of the best nature has to offer, with tender green asparagus, spring onions, sweet baby carrots, fresh peas and their curly shoots among the early bounty.

ARTICHOKE HEART CHARTREUSE WITH PEAS AND PHEASANT’S EGG

Asparagus, pheasant’s egg and early peas and their shoots combine with a parmesan vinaigrette to create a delicate and ephemeral but flavour-intense spring dish.

PROFILE

Fabrice Uhryn started at The Waterside Inn in 2001 as a sous chef, rising fast to become head chef. Here he reflects on a life in food

WORDS William Sitwell

In the kitchen with Alain

Fabrice says he has learned a lot about calm management style from chef-patronAlain

I grew up in the Belgian countryside,and we had good food on the table every day.My father kept chickens,guinea fowl and rabbits. “Come on,Fabrice,”he’d say,and I’d follow him and watch as he despatched one of our animals,which was then prepared for roasting.My mother also made classic hearty dishes – it might be navarin of lamb or veal blanquette,perhaps – which she served with vegetables fresh from my father’s vegetable garden.My grandmother was not a good cook,but my grandfather was Ukrainian and I can still taste the borscht he used to make.

School was not easy for me. In fact, I was useless at most things. When I was about 16, I thought to myself, “I am going nowhere. What do I do with my life?” There was a catering school close to my home, and I knew other students at the college, so it seemed like the best option.

My first job was in a local restaurant called The Grasshopper (but in Walloon dialect rather than English). The food was regional, and I must tell you that the chef was so passionate about food that he inspired – lit up – a passion within me. I had always enjoyed eating but working in his kitchen, little by little, I became more obsessive about food and cooking.

Very close to my home there happened to be a restaurant, L’Hostellerie Lafarque, which had two Michelin stars. I applied for a job and got one. It was hard work, but I learned the basics and also learned about true gastronomy. Within two years I was the chef’s right-hand man and I stayed there for almost seven years. Needless to say, by then I was immersed in kitchen life. I loved eating. I loved discovering flavours and techniques. And I enjoyed the adrenaline and energy of professional cooking – when I’m in the kitchen I like to be in action. I don’t want to rest or relax.

In 2001 I came to Britain with my partner, Stephanie, and we both applied for a job at The Waterside Inn, among other places. All of a sudden we started work here! She was front of house, working with Diego, and continued in that job for eight years. I was in one of the best kitchens in the UK, and with a team of 25 chefs. Coming from the Belgian countryside, this was a big shock for me and I had to adapt to the culture and, of course, the food. In those days there were only a few good restaurants in Britain. Now they are everywhere! Today Stephanie and I live in Maidenhead in Berkshire, and we have two children, Lily, six, and Louis, three. I want to teach my kids everything about good food.

The Waterside Inn is like one big family. Alain has helped me to perfect my management style – yes, some chefs do shout and scream, but there are other ways of achieving excellence. For Michel, food is his passion and he inspires everyone around him. Now I am in my 10th year as head chef. I cook, of course, but also supervise and make sure we achieve the right standards. The turnover of staff is quite high so I am constantly training. This is a place of constant celebration. One of my favourite moments was the 25th anniversary of our three Michelin stars. We invited all the Michelin-starred chefs in the UK. A tough night, but oh, what a memory!

“I enjoy the adrenaline.When I’m in the kitchen I like to be in action.I don’t want to relax”

Why use couverture?

We always use couverture rather than cocoa because it contains a higher percentage of pure cocoa butter,which,combined with proper tempering, gives chocolate a uniform sheen and crisp bite.

CHOCOLATE HEAVEN

Great skill and artistry goes into every meltingly delicious mouthful of the dark stuff

Chocolate indulgence

ATaïnori dark chocolate coating is combined with a smooth milk chocolate filling to create a perfect balance,while the mango quenelle adds a fresh,exotic note.

THE ART OF CHOCOLATE

“Each year I challenge several of my pastry chefs to create a beautiful chocolate egg. Some of the eggs are simple and traditional, while others are more complex and innovative – but every single one of them is a unique work of art.” Alain Roux

SPRING The indulgent treat EASTER EGGS

Our special display not only celebrates and symbolises rebirth and new life but also showcases the artisan expertise of our chefs. We make chocolate bonbons to accompany tea and coffee after meals, and on Easter Sunday we leave large eggs for guests to enjoy in their bedrooms.

MATERIAL GIRLS

Robyn Roux has teamed up with her friend Bernie de Le Cuona to introduce subtle changes to the guest rooms

WORDS James Steen

Robyn Roux has always overseen design at TheWaterside Inn and is now making the rooms even more sumptuous by teaming up with one of Britain’s leading fabric designers,Bernie de Le Cuona.Here they discuss adding colour and texture – and travelling to India to learn to weave.

Robyn: I have a huge love of colour, which probably comes from seeing the vast expanses of Australia. When I walk into a room and see all these beautiful neutrals, then yes, I feel calm – it’s a chill zone. But because our guests are staying only one or two nights, it’s rather nice to add a big splash. Bernie: So how do you start with a room? Robyn: I’m a bit like a kid in a toy shop. I have fun, and it’s always the fabric first: the curtains and then the cushions.

Bernie: That’s so refreshing to hear because most designers and decorators start with everything else, such as the furniture. And then they think: “Oh goodness, where do we go from here?”

Robyn: The fabric has got to feel good – you must want to touch it. Your fabrics are all beautiful and touchy. It fascinates me how designers start out by getting the pattern and then putting it down on paper.

Bernie: I design all of my fabrics. Robyn: And how did you begin? Bernie: You know, I started on my own with absolutely nothing, more than 20 years ago. I’d come over from South Africa and had to make a living. I thought, “What am I going to do?” I didn’t know anything about fabrics. Nicky Haslam was my first interiors customer. From then it went on and on. No matter how large the business is today, my great passion has not changed: sitting down to draw the designs, define the collection direction and create fabrics. Everything is woven not printed. I remember at the beginning, when I went to India – just me and my backpack – to learn how to weave. Friends thought I was totally nuts. But I had nothing to lose.

Read more about Bernie’s adventures in fabrics and her bespoke curtains,cushions,throws and upholstery service at delecuona.com

Changing rooms

Robyn and Bernie experiment with both colour and texture to make the rooms look elegant and inviting and to create a cocooning environment for guests

DETAILS

Neutral, tranquil shades of de Le Cuona’s collection include (pictured above) the opal Siam Cushion, woven on handlooms in ribbon tapes and raw linen, in front of the linen pearl-coloured Opera Quilted Cushion; on the back of the chair is the exquisitely detailed Heritage Pearl Drape in reversible paisley. The bundle of cushions (above right) comprises, from top to bottom, a sublimely soft, cosy Bouclé Cashmere Chair Cushion in a stone shade; a Classic Cashmere Cushion; a Persia Cushion, its reverse side made of buffalo-coloured stonewashed linen; and an Opera Quilted Cushion in agate. On the chair (right) is the pomegranate Persia and Silk Velvet Cushion and behind it the larger burnt orange Silk Velvet and Linen Cushion.

What to invest in KEY PIECES

“I’ve always had an eye for vibrant colour,but Bernie has made me appreciate the beauty of paler weaves and interesting textures”

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ONE FINE DAME

Stephanie Shirley fled the Nazis aged five and has since given millions to good causes, believing the future lies in research, technology, robots… and crunchy bugs

WORDS

William Sitwell ILLUSTRATION Chr istian David Moore

AsIgreetDameStephanieShirleyshehandsmetwo small packets.“I hear you’re a foodie,”she says with a smile.“So I brought these for you.” I look at the little gifts and see that they are edible insects: grubs and crickets.I thank her with a grimace.

“In the future, more and more people will be eating insects,” she says. “And I’m quite sure they can be made to feel delicious with a lovely crunch.”

Well, maybe, I think to myself. But not anywhere near me and definitely not here at The Waterside Inn. But who am I to question Dame Stephanie, a woman with an extraordinary story, whose vision has changed and improved countless lives and who has spent much of her life donating to good causes, especially those close to her heart. She is one of the country’s leading philanthropists but, now and again, she gives herself a little treat, by visiting The Waterside.

“I come here on special occasions,” she says, her last visit being to celebrate with her housekeeper after she completed 25 years of service. “My view of food is probably different than that of many people. I was a child refugee aged five and that does something to your psyche. And as a philanthropist eating while half the world is starving I enjoy it but do feel slightly guilty. Food is love, but one has mixed feelings.”

Dame Stephanie arrived in Britain from Nazioccupied Europe in 1939. She was placed with foster carers in the West Midlands and was later successfully reunited with her mother and father. With her sister she was part of the series of rescue efforts called Kindertransport that brought thousands of children from Germany to the UK between 1938 and 1940.

“I can still remember some of it,” she says. “I recall arriving at Liverpool Street station and waiting on the platform with my nine-year-old sister Renate. We hardly spoke a word of English, had a numbered ticket hanging around our neck and had very little idea about where we were going.”

Two-and-a-half days earlier the girls, with 1,000 other children, had said goodbye to their parents, many for the last time. Once in London and after what seemed like hours on the platform the two sisters were led to a car where they met their new ‘parents’. Dame Stephanie remembers bawling her eyes out on the long car journey, but not because she missed home. “I’d lost my doll,” she says.

She reflects on this in her newly published autobiography Let IT Go. “Was it really the doll that bothered me? Or had its loss become a symbol of everything we had lost?” she writes. “I cannot be certain; not after so much time. But I am sure of one thing. This was not really (as it seemed then) an ending. It was a beginning. This was the moment when, to all intents and purposes, my life began.”

Today, as we chat, Dame Stephanie also reflects on the brave young women who took on the job of escorting the children. “There was a 16-year-old

who volunteered to take the babies. But she had to return and would have gone back to a certain death. It’s so traumatic but these things are slipping out of human memory. And it’s one of the reasons why I have a certain approach to luxury.”

Speaking of which, she refers to the supper she had the previous night. “I had a boiled egg. My husband did it,” she says. “I don’t cook. And as I get older I eat very little red meat, but plenty of fish and light food.”

After school Stephanie, then still named Vera Buchthal (she changed her name and became a British citizen aged 18) decided against university, instead moving into the world of mathematics and technical business. Having worked for a computer company she then decided to start her own software company that would cater exclusively for women, particularly those with dependants. “I wanted to create opportunities for myself and other women,” she explains. “I wanted to employ women who could work in their own homes with babies. Needless to say a lot of people (men) laughed at the idea.”

The business was a huge success although, ironically, the Sex Discrimination Act of 1975 made her female bias illegal. “So we had to let men in,” she laughs.

The business grew very slowly but long-term, she explains: “I became very wealthy.” Meanwhile, much of her attention was also taken up by her child who was autistic. It helped to inform the Shirley Foundation, which she set up in 1986 and focuses on research into autism.

“My lifestyle is entirely philanthropic,” she says of the last three decades.“I’ve given £50 million to autistic causes and £15 million to causes relating to technology.”

Stephanie,five,and Renate,nine,before they leftVienna on a Kindertransport.They were fostered by the Smiths,who had read about their plight in a local newspaper

As to the issue of money, she reflects: “It’s not money that’s dirty, it’s the love of money.” And while insects will play a big part in our future, so too will robots. “I think robots will carry out many human tasks, and not just doing your tax return. They’ll also be very useful for autism.Teaching autistic children involves slow repetition and a robot can go over something again and again without tiring.”

Chatting at The Waterside Inn, I ask her what luxuries she would admit to. “I like good original works of art and I have some of my clothes made for me,” she says, “and I drink champagne. I usually order Veuve Clicquot and I sip without guilt.”

I’m relieved. We could all do with a guilt-free sip now and again. And a guilt-free bite. And we’ve come to the right place for that (without a grub in sight).

Let IT Go by Dame Stephanie Shirley,Andrews UK

Sisters in arms

Delivering expert cooking environments

Introducing summer’s finest

INGREDIENTS

These wonderful fruits are incredibly versatile and come in numerous shapes, sizes and colours. One of head chef Fabrice Uhryn’s favourites is the heirloom variety marmande (pictured), which is ideal served with spicy tomato sorbet and fresh burrata, or made into a consommé with plenty of summer vegetables and red prawns.

SUMMER BERRIES

The sweet scent of berries brings us summer on a plate. These bright and beautiful little treats are perfect for puddings, served either together in a summer pudding or separately to decorate elegant desserts, for example. They also bring freshness to savoury dishes such as duck or pigeon.

SUMMER

Best of the season

RED FRUIT MILLEFEUILLE

Puff pastry with vanilla cream and sweet summer berries decorated with a few baby basil leaves is a simple combination of ingredients that makes a delectable dessert on our lunch menu.

Why should

Hobart Service is proud to support Alain Roux and his staff at The Waterside Inn

ALL ABOARD

Alain Roux and his family take to the Thames for a culinary cruise, bringing along a picnic of specially prepared summer dishes

WORDS James Steen

For many years one little boat,moored on the bank,has given countless hours of pleasure.Before or after lunch,guests – half a dozen or so – clamber aboard to idle away an hour gently cruising along theThames on Waterside Inn II.(Its predecessor,Waterside Inn, ran aground on the nearby island;thankfully there were no casualties, no men overboard,and evening service carried on,as ever.)

Today the Roux family have taken charge of the boat to savour a picnic party, Waterside-style. Michel wears the invisible captain’s hat, while Alain is joined by his wife Laura and their children, Paul, aged five, and two-year-old Louise.

Beneath the Berkshire sun, they sail and enjoy a glorious, leisurely feast, which has been prepared by Alain and includes quinoa tabbouleh salad garnished with savoy cabbage leaves, black olives, lime segments and sprigs of mint, as well as colourful vegetables à la Grecque, a vegetarian delight that includes fennel bulbs, carrots, courgettes, green beans and button mushrooms. And to deal with the carnivorous craving, there is a mini mountain of glazed beef short ribs, looking handsome and hearty. Before a three-hour roasting in a slow oven, they have been marinated overnight in a mixture of pineapple juice, soy sauce, sugar, garlic, vinegar, honey, tomato ketchup and lemon juice.

There are waffles, too, made by head chef Fabrice. Michel scatters sugar over them so it is captured in the square holes. Then he spoons on a dollop – we’re talking generous grandfather portions – of Chantilly cream. Paul and Louise leave not a single crumb.

River Thames picnic party

The Roux family (above,from left) Louise,Laura, Michel,Paul andAlain enjoy a leisurely summer cruise along theThames on Waterside Inn II,which is available for guests to hire fromTheWaterside Inn

QUINOA TABBOULEH SALAD

SERVES 6

PREPARE 15 MINUTES, PLUS STANDING AND COOLING COOK 15 MINUTES

l 200g quinoa,rinsed and drained well

l 2 tbsp groundnut oil

l 200g ripe tomatoes

l 200g cucumber

l 4 small spring onions,including tender green leaves,finely snipped

l 20g curly parsley,chopped

l 10g mint leaves,snipped

l 100ml extra virgin olive oil

l juice of 2 lemons

GARNISH

l 6 inner savoy cabbage leaves

l 12 black olives,pitted and sliced

l 2 limes,cut into wedges, plus 6 lime segments

l 6 mint sprigs

1. Toast the quinoa in the oil in a saucepan over a medium-high heat, stirring frequently, until fragrant. Add 300ml cold water and a pinch of salt. Bring to the boil over a medium heat, stirring occasionally. Cook for 15 minutes, then tip into a large salad bowl, cover and leave to stand for 10 minutes. Fluff up using a fork and leave to cool to room temperature.

2. Meanwhile, deseed and finely dice the tomatoes. Peel, halve, deseed and finely dice the cucumber. Sprinkle with salt, leave for 5 minutes, then drain and pat dry.

3. Add the remaining ingredients to the quinoa and mix gently, seasoning to taste. Cover with cling film and leave in a cool place for at least 1 hour to allow the flavours to develop.

4. To serve, line individual dishes with the cabbage leaves. Divide the tabbouleh between them, heaping it into a dome and arranging a few olive slices on the surface. Garnish each serving with a few wedges of lime, a lime segment and a sprig of mint.

VEGETABLES A LA GRECQUE

SERVES 6

PREPARE: 20 MINUTES, PLUS COOLING COOK: 25 MINUTES

l 6 baby fennel bulbs,trimmed

l 12 baby carrots,peeled and trimmed

l 6 baby courgettes,halved lengthways

l 24 French beans

l 12 radishes

l 6 small spring onions

l 12 small button mushrooms

l 2 tbsp finely chopped flat leaf parsley leaves

A LA GRECQUE DRESSING

l 50ml white wine vinegar

l 125ml olive oil

l ½ tsp coriander seeds,crushed

l ½ tsp white peppercorns,crushed

l 50g concentrated tomato purée

l 75ml lemon juice

l 10g garlic,peeled and crushed

l 1 small bouquet garni

l 50g caster sugar

1. Put all the ingredients for the à la Grecque dressing in a saucepan together with 125ml water. Set over a low heat and simmer gently for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally with a whisk.

2. Blanch all the vegetables except the mushrooms separately in boiling salted water; allow 2 minutes for the fennel and carrots and about 30 seconds for the courgettes, French beans, radishes and spring onions. Drain, then add all the vegetables to the dressing. Add the mushrooms and simmer for 5 minutes.

3. Discard the bouquet garni, tip the vegetables into a bowl and leave to cool at room temperature. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

4. Arrange the dressed vegetables in a large, deep serving dish. Sprinkle over the chopped parsley and serve.

CHEF FABRICE’S BELGIAN WAFFLES

SERVES 6

PREPARE 10 MINUTES, PLUS COOLING COOK 20 MINUTES

l 75g butter,melted,plus 20g softened,to brush waffle iron

l 80g caster sugar

l 1 vanilla pod,split lengthways,seeds scraped out

l 1 large egg

l 70ml whole milk

l 125g self-raising flour

l granulated sugar and Chantilly cream,to serve

1. Preheat the waffle iron to very high.

2. Put the melted butter in a large bowl, add the sugar, vanilla seeds and a pinch of salt, then combine with a whisk.

3. Crack the egg into a bowl and beat briefly with a fork. Add to the mix and stir.

4. Add the milk and whisk thoroughly.

5. Gradually add the flour and mix until smooth.

6. Cook the waffles straight away until golden, lightly brushing the waffle iron with softened butter between cooking each waffle.

7. Cool on a wire tray, then store in an airtight container, if you like.

8. Sprinkle over granulated sugar and serve with Chantilly cream. Other options include fresh seasonal berries, vanilla ice cream, jams, honey and chocolate hazelnut spread.

GLAZED BEEF SHORT RIBS

SERVES 6

PREPARE 10 MINUTES, PLUS MARINATING COOK 3 HOURS 10 MINUTES

l 500ml unsweetened pineapple juice

l 2 tbsp dark soy sauce

l 1 tbsp demerara brown sugar

l 3 garlic cloves,peeled and crushed

l 1 tbsp rice wine vinegar

l 1 tbsp clear honey

l 100g tomato ketchup

l juice of ½ lemon

l 1kg beef short ribs,cut into individual ribs

l 200ml groundnut oil

1. In a large shallow dish, combine the pineapple juice, soy sauce, sugar, garlic, vinegar, honey, ketchup and lemon juice. Mix well using a whisk. Add the beef ribs, cover and leave to marinate overnight in the fridge.

2. Remove the ribs and set aside.

3. Bring the marinade to the boil in a saucepan and reduce over a high heat by one third.

4. Preheat the oven to 160°C. Sear the beef in a hot frying pan with the oil and a little salt, until browned on all sides.

5. Put the ribs and the reduced marinade in a large roasting tray. Cook in the preheated oven for 3 hours, turning them over occasionally and skimming the fat from the roasting tray with a spoon as often as necessary, until the ribs are brown and glazed and the meat is fork-tender and pulling away from the bone.

6. To serve, place the ribs in a large, deep serving dish and drizzle over the leftover cooking liquor.

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MY LIFE IN SERVICE

Diego Masciaga has dedicated his life to The Waterside Inn. Here he describes what it’s really like to be the man behind the welcoming smile

WORDS Diego Masciaga

I came to London in 1983.I was 20 years old and couldn’t speak a word of English.I come from Oleggio,a small village near Stresa by Lake Maggiore in northwest Italy,but by the age of 17 I had found a job at a three Michelin star restaurant calledAlain Chapel near Lyon in France.Then I heard of a job at Le Gavroche in London run by the Roux brothers and with an amazing reputation. So I applied and got the role of commis de sale, a junior position in the dining room.

While I spoke no English, I was fluent in French, German and my native Italian, and I picked up the language quickly. I never had a single lesson but learned it from watching television, listening to pop music and reading newspapers and books.

Coming to London was a big shock – I was more used to the French countryside. But then I spent less time on the London streets and more in the restaurant. My role was mainly to carry plates. But I understood the job and was, within six months, promoted to assistant maître d’hôtel by the then manager Silvano Giraldin.

He saw something in me. He could tell that I felt at ease with people. So I worked my way up and in 1988 I came to work at The Waterside Inn as assistant restaurant manager. Five months later I was manager. Today I am director and general manager. I am the master of all ceremonies. I love this place.

At home there is a different Diego and whatever personal stresses there might ever be at work I am always a polished professional. I’m comfortable with both Diegos but my wife, Kerry, only knows the one at home. She rarely comes to The Waterside and when she came to an event recently to hear me make a speech she had tears in her eyes. It was my professional persona and she didn’t really know that side of me.

My life and what I do is not about skills, it’s about attitude. I understand the pleasure there is in pleasing guests and I strive to get as close to perfection as possible. And the dining room at The Waterside is the place I always choose to be.

There are two groups of people who have kept me working here, the Rouxs and the guests. I have had the extraordinary pleasure of working with

these professionals – and they always allow me to be my (professional) self. The guests (and I call them guests, not clients), meanwhile, are the other reason I love my role at The Waterside and Kerry’s unstinting support empowers me to love it. She has supported me all along and I am very grateful to her and my daughters for being alongside me throughout these years.

Kerry does actually come here about once a year with some friends. I’ll be here but I won’t look after her table and it will make me quite tense. I couldn’t take criticism from her! That would be much harder than from a guest.

In fact, I think it was Kerry who showed me how to talk to people and how to be a diplomat. Over the years, I have also learned about many subjects – I talk to the guests and it’s not just about food and wine. We talk about everything from art and theatre to opera and music. So I make sure I keep well informed and up to date with the news.

And the guests like to discuss their travels. I have much to contribute here because I have been lucky enough to travel all over the world during my holidays - our trips are usually cultural and always lots of fun.

Like everyone, I make the most of my free time and love simple pleasures such as going to the pub with family and friends, for example. But if I’m honest, I find myself seeking out time on my own if I possibly can. Fishing is a favourite hobby, simply because at work I am always flat-out busy in a clamouring environment.

But I know I have become important to many guests’ lives. We are privileged to have many loyal guests who return year after year so we always have so much to talk about together and catch up on. And don’t forget, I’m Italian, so I love to talk!

Some people, despite their wealth and status can still have times when they are lonely or need to confide in someone. They know they can trust me, because although I am understanding, first and foremost I am a professional and I never forget this. And there is always lots to laugh about, too. Some people come to The Waterside on their own and talk about their life, their family, their business or

“I understand the pleasure there is in pleasing guests and I strive to get as close to perfection as possible”

their children.Year after year, they see me. They see that I smile and that I never complain. Perhaps they wonder, “How can I be like him?”

And if someone is ever critical about a member of my team, I don’t blame them if, for example, they are new. I say that it’s my fault because I haven’t trained them enough. I can change even the rudest person into the nicest.

I know that people will often ask if I will be here on the day they have booked. If I’m not, their faces might fall. But I know that my team will look after them just as well.

When my staff are ready to move on, when they have given me as much as they can, I’ll help them progress. I try to be their mentor in work and life generally, I love to help them flourish. And there will always come a time when they will need to find new horizons and learn something different. There is mutual affection and respect and our network just keeps growing. But I always make sure my family comes first. After all, if nothing else, The Waterside is an amazing example to us all of the power of family – it really is everything.

It was back in 1996 but I vividly recall Mr Diego’s first words of advice. I was the young and cocky commis waiter, and he took me to one side. “Look the customer in the eye and smile,” he said. “That way, you’ll create a sparkle, the start of a relationship.” Later, I noticed this was wisdom he relayed to every new member of the team.

I was a new arrival from France.Having grown up in Roanne,near Lyon,I had worked in a small restaurant and studied at catering college.But my new job was a wake-up call;I had not experienced service of such a high standard.

Mr Diego lives to please others, and he showed me how to address, charm and relax guests. We have to know what the guest wants before a request is made. So it’s a guessing game – and we must always guess right.

I left to work at a two Michelin star restaurant in Lyon but then Monsieur Roux called to ask,“How do you fancy working for me again?”So I returned to England,and to his pub in Suffolk,

TheWhite Hart Inn.That is where I met Rachel,who would become my wife.She has always been there for me, constantly supportive.When I am working or travelling with Monsieur Roux,she is looking after our daughters, Amelia,six,and Mirabelle,two,and has the pressures of her own full-time job.

Rachel and I also lived in Australia, where Monsieur Roux arranged for me to work at the International Management School in the Blue Mountains. I returned to The White Hart, then on to the Bath Priory hotel and, in 2006, I was back at The Waterside as premier maître d’hôtel before becoming assistant restaurant manager.

I was delighted to be back with Mr Diego (the man who taught me the art of carving;everything from fish to fowl). When a guest arrives,feeling a little down,their eyes light up when they see Diego.He makes them feel better.The best sportsmen have a certain attitude to life,and Mr Diego is like them. He was born to do this job and achieve something great.His passion never fades, not even for a single moment.

Recognition for Diego Frédéric is not alone in his appreciation.Diego recently won the prestigious Italian Maestro delle Arti award. Read more on page 14

What tricks, techniques and know-how has Frédéric Poulette (above,left) acquired from Diego?

The Diego Masciaga Way by Chris Parker is published by Urbane Publications

Berkmann Wine Cellars are proud to work with The Waterside Inn.

With over fifty years of experience supplying wine drinkers nationwide, our portfolio contains some of the most recognisable and pre-eminent names in the wine world. For information on our wines and our services please contact: Peter Lowe, Chairman on 0207 609 4711.

FALLING LEAVES

Spectacular views of big skies and leaves turning vermilion and ochre are reflected in still waters disturbed only by boats cradling relaxed guests

MUSHROOMS

INGREDIENTS

Wild fungi love autumn’s warm, moist conditions. Head chef Fabrice Uhryn’s favourites are penny bun ceps, which he says taste even better when he’s foraged for them. They’re good sautéed in butter with garlic and parsley.

Introducing autumn’s finest

What to do with pumpkins

Pumpkins are eagerly anticipated for their orange flesh with its delicate flavour and natural sweetness,both of which are enhanced by roasting.

AUTUMN

Best of the season VEAL KIDNEY PIE

Thin slices of delicate veal kidney are sautéed à la minute with Dijon mustard and tarragon, arranged on a bed of spinach then topped with puff pastry and served with wild rice.

Boxing clever

Making his first visit to Octavian,Maxime Walkowiak,head sommelier atThe Waterside Inn,inspects the restaurant’s wine,mostly Bordeaux,which is stored in the perfect conditions of the stone vaults

THE CASE FOR FINE WINE

Michel Roux knows that good wine must be stored in perfect conditions. That’s why he insists on Octavian’s deep underground cellars at Corsham in Wiltshire

WORDS James Steen

The journey does little to prepare you for what is to come.BeyondthecosyvillageofCorsham,the road sweeps this way and that,passing ancient orchards of apple and pear,past farms and willow-framed ponds. The morning is noiseless,except for the tweet of starlings on the branches of a weary oak,and the hum of a tractor invisible beyond the hills.

And then there it is. A lane that leads to palace-sized iron gates; the only way to get in – and out – of this strangely located Aladdin’s cave. This is Octavian.You may never have heard of it, though there is every chance you will have drunk some of its contents.

collectors, restaurants and hedge funds eager to make a not-so-fast buck out of an investment. If you have bought wine from a merchant and have it stored in bond, then it is possibly kept in the vast belly of this incredible place where cases are stacked from floor to ceiling. Those visiting for the first time tend to wander silently in wonderment, trying to absorb the enormity of this dimly lit dungeon of taste. There are cases upon cases of Romanée-Conti, Cheval Blanc, Lafite and Latour. There seem to be more cases of Pol Roger than you would find at Pol Roger.

Explosive history

Before it became a storage space for wine,the cellars at Corsham were used by the Ministry of Defence as a gigantic munitions store

Beyond the gates and 30 metres below ground is a bunker that is home to wine. And a great deal of it: Octavian is the world’s largest storage specialist of fine wines. To be here, to see it – whether or not you are a wine lover – has a bizarre and powerful effect on the senses. Walk down the 157 steps, and you will come to what was once a mine of Bath stone, with natural and ideal conditions for wine storage. It is the size of 22 football pitches together, although the space covers a mass of wide tunnels. Managing director Vincent O’Brien says there are 800,000 cases with a total value of around £1.8 billion.

This is the storage place used by connoisseurs from all over the world, be it wine merchants, private

There are also cases owned by The Waterside Inn that are resting, waiting and maturing until requested by head sommelier Maxime Walkowiak, who today is enjoying his first visit to Octavian, and gasping in delight and amazement as he does so.

Meanwhile, it is Michel Roux who makes annual wine-tasting trips to France with Claude Grant, director of Michel Roux Fine Wines. Claude then buys the produce, mostly Bordeaux, on behalf of the wine business, for their private clientele and The Waterside Inn. For a couple of decades, Octavian has provided Michel Roux Fine Wines with storage space for when the wines arrive from the châteaux in France. “And at Octavian they’re kept as if they were in the châteaux,” says Michel. “I believe that

Bottle bank

Octavian’s contents include a bottle of Château Lafite Rothschild 1789 and another from the 1791 vintage, each worth about £130,000

To make arrangements to move your wine to Octavian,please call +44 (0)1225 818714 or email info@octavian.co.uk

no other restaurant has done this. I’m a strong believer that, for the price we charge, the wine should be kept in the best conditions, and at Octavian the temperature is guaranteed.”

Each week some 20 to 30 cases are delivered to The Waterside Inn. And every other year a director of the company visits the vaults to carry out a spot check on about 50 cases. “We have about 3,000 cases there, so no wonder there’s a spot check!” says Michel.

This has not always been Octavian Wine Vaults. It began life as a mine, the stone from which was used to built properties across and beyond the county. During the Second World War the Ministry of Defence used it as a munitions dump. At one point it was used to grow mushrooms. At another time, it was a nuclear shelter. As Octavian, it is an ever-increasing business.

We pass a case of Château d’Yquem 1929, and Lafite Rothschild from the vintages of 1825, 1870, 1848, and 1868, before reaching Margaux from 1900. Over there is a Pétrus from 1962, worth about £40,000.

“We also have a bottle of 1775 sherry,” says O’Brien. “But I’m not sure I’d want to drink it.” It is Massandra de la Frontera, and would fetch at least £30,000 in auction. Of the clarets, he adds, “It’s amazing how many 1945s we have. You don’t want to drop any of those.”

Under control

The location of the cellars

30 metres below ground allows for tight control of temperature and humidity, which is vital for the proper storage of wine.

Ten thousand private collectors,investors and wine merchants from all over the world store their collections at the cellars

He points out the importance of good storage. “It’s part of the life cycle of wine. I can tell you the value of the wines but not what they taste like. We are not wine experts. We are storage experts. Our job is very simple – we get cases, put them on a shelf, you say when you want them and we get them to you. We also have to make sure the wine is in good shape when it arrives here.”

On the matter of getting cases, he tells a horror story as we climb the 157 steps to daylight. “Two weeks ago, a container truck arrived full of wine. When we opened it, we were greeted by an awful sight. Bottles had exploded and cracked. Instead of setting the container’s temperature to 16 degrees, someone had set it to minus 16. We couldn’t accept what remained.

“Someone,” he adds, “won’t be making that mistake again.”

Michel Roux Fine Wines

For an opportunity to purchase fine Bordeaux en primeur wines for your private collection,call Claude Grant,director,on 01628 786709 or email claudegrant@ michelrouxfinewines.com

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Meeting the exacting requirements of professional clients is what we do. And exacting requirements do not come any more challenging than those of the award winning Waterside Inn. So we are delighted to have been part of the team that achieved the dream kitchen for Alain and Michel Roux.

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GAME ON

Autumn is a special season for Michel Roux. With game birds in demand on the menu, it’s a chance for him to indulge his passion for the countryside and shooting

WORDS James Steen

The view from the dining room is a farewell to summer and a hymn to autumn.The river is darkening and,on its banks,lush green leaves on the trees are turning to shades of yellow,auburn and rust.And, of course,the new season brings with it an abundance of autumnal ingredients to inspire the menu.

There is, for instance, roasted loin of venison in a pastry crust, served with wild mushrooms and a hermitage sauce lifted by a touch of blackberry vinegar. Meanwhile, Challandais duck is spit-roasted, and served – for two – with caramelised pears and purée Dijonnaise, and a heavenly scented sauce with hibiscus honey.

Game birds, too, are in high demand and for Michel Roux autumn is a time not just of extraordinary gastronomic pleasures, but also for bagging the birds that will make their way to the table.

Every year Michel spends about ten to 14 days on shoots with his dog Henry, a chocolate cocker spaniel, in Dorset, Devon, Wiltshire, Hampshire and North Yorkshire, as well as Scotland and Northern Ireland.

His passion for the sport began in the late 1960s, soon after he came to Britain. “Then I was rough shooting in Norfolk,” he recalls. “We were a group of chefs from London who started a syndicate, and we’d bring picnics and have lunch at a local pub. Albert would bring his labrador. We’d return to London, absolutely exhausted, in time to cook at Le Gavroche in the evening. And then into bed – no need for sleeping pills!”

“I go shooting not simply for the shoot itself but for the countryside,” he explains. “In one day there can be two or three seasons with their sunshine, wind and rain, and I feel as if I am looking at a Turner painting.”

Michel likes the birds cooked without fuss. “They are at their best when nicely roasted, not overcooked. I love grouse, traditionally with bread sauce and Brussels sprouts, accompanied by Nuits-Saint-Georges wine. I also enjoy it raw: the breast goes into the deep freeze for a few minutes. Then it is sliced finely like carpaccio and dotted with a mixture of whipped cream, horseradish and lemon.”

Partridge is one of his favourites. “It is beautiful and one of the best because its flavour is delicate, especially in October and the beginning of November,” he says.

“But let’s not forget pigeon,” he adds. “Another marvellous bird that’s full of flavour. Albert and I used to make a hearty dish for our mother. Pigeon went into a casserole, joined by plenty of garlic cloves and lardons of smoked bacon. There were herbs, too – chervil, chives, parsley and thyme, perhaps. Seasoning, of course. Oh, and a little chicken stock. Served with glazed carrots, it is beautiful and so extraordinarily simple.”

A bird in the hand

Opening page:Michel’s cocker spaniel Henry looks longingly at the day’s catch.Opposite page,clockwise from top left:wild pheasants have a deliciously gamey flavour;head chef Fabrice has plenty to work with in the kitchen;his tray contains two partridges and a cock and hen pheasant

“I go shooting not simply for the shoot itself but for the countryside… I feel as if I am looking at aTurner painting”

AUTUMN

Best of the season

PIGEON TWO WAYS

Grilled squab breast and a crispy leg are served with a spicy sweet pepper piperade to excite the senses and a contrasting potato terrine.

‘We use L’Unico Musetti espresso coffee at The Waterside Inn because it provides our guests with the blend they’d expect from us. The aroma, the quality, the consistency – it’s superb coffee.’

ALAIN ROUX

TRAVEL

Set in an ancient rainforest, The Datai resort on the heavenly Malaysian island of Langkawi is the perfect destination for a winter getaway for The Waterside Inn’s global ambassador Michel Roux

WORDS William Sitwell PHOTOGRAPHS The Datai Langkawi

Island paradise

Previous page:enjoy a cocktail and a light snack at the Beach Club. This picture:one of the breathtaking beaches.Below:explore the coastline on board the Naga Pelangi,which is available for exclusive charter.Opposite page: Michel preparing food in the kitchen

It is early evening and on the terrace of a hotel in Malaysia,around a still and turquoise swimming pool that bobs with lanterns,guests are mingling.There is movement among the tall trees as monkeys emerge as if to watch the proceedings.Then amid the chatter a man in chef whites claps his hands and a hush descends.

That man is Michel Roux who, in his role as global ambassador for The Waterside Inn, has come to cook dinner. Tonight he is at The Datai, surely one of the world’s greatest hotels, set in paradise on Langkawi, a Malaysian island whose rainforest and golden sands are lapped by the warm Andaman Sea.

The Datai is sympathetically poised among the trees and the wildlife, with discreet villas and rooms as well a spa, excellent bars, exquisite restaurants and, now and then, dinner cooked by an international culinary star.

Michel has travelled to The Datai with a couple of members of staff from The Waterside Inn to cook a five-course dinner with wine to match by leading French sommelier Pierre Bat.

“Let me tell you what you are going to eat tonight,” Michel tells the assembled guests. “There will be beef which will be rare or medium and the duck will be pink. If you want it well done you can have that – back in Australia or the UK.” Laughter fills the terrace and soon, with the diners seated, Michel is back in the kitchen manning

the pass and sending out dishes to guests who have travelled to be at The Datai from across the world.

The next day Michel has some time to relax. He has cooked three dinners during his stay here and after a quiet morning at one of the hotel’s beach villas he takes a seat by the Beach Bar. Set between a second swimming pool and the sea and shaded by vast palm trees, come lunchtime the place is buzzing. Staff in white jackets pour glasses of rosé and guests liven up after a morning of gentle sunbathing.

“I have done many dinners like this in my life,” says Michel sipping on a small, cold lager. “But Malaysia is one country where I haven’t cooked. This is a place of amazing food, wonderful ingredients, beautiful landscapes and the most fascinating culture. But wherever you are it’s a challenge, because we need to rely on local ingredients and you can never be sure about the size or quality. So you have to keep cool and adapt.”

Each year, Michel plans a number of similar dinners across the world as he takes a taste of The Waterside Inn to guests who might not have the opportunity to visit the restaurant in the UK or who may well revel in the idea of having a three Michelin star French gastronomic feast while on holiday in some exotic clime.

“I discuss it with Alain, my son,” explains Michel. “I don’t just take his staff! And also I do this for good reasons; to promote the restaurant

“This place is like a dream – from the local market to the hotel’s design,which subtly hides the place within the rainforest”

Relax in style

Follow Michel’s lead and enjoy a cold beer while looking out over the Andaman Sea at the Beach Bar

and to challenge myself. This is not a free holiday. I like to sweat and face the challenge. But after a few days of hard work I take a little time off. For me a short rest is best and the way I relax is to have a cigar.”

At this moment it’s hard to conceive of a finer place to light that tobacco. Aside from the relaxing Beach Bar, there’s a beach restaurant that serves a variety of Mediterranean and Malaysian dishes, and the hotel restaurant (which serves the finest hotel breakfast on the planet, from fresh croissants and homemade granola to dhal and roti) serving a modern taken on Asian cuisine.

There are two other notable restaurants at the resort. The Pavilion, housed on 30-metre-high stilts, serves traditional Thai cuisine, while The Gulai House, found in a clearing in the rainforest, produces a combination of classic local Malay cuisine and Indian food. The latter is extraordinarily good, serving wonderfully tender tandoor-cooked lamb chops, for example, and lush lentil dishes and breads.

The hotel’s service, from private butlers who service the beachfront villas to bar tenders, are what sets The Datai apart from other luxury hotels. Nothing is ever too much trouble and there’s a wonderful spirit that would make Diego Masciaga proud.

There’s also a member of staff that few other such places require. Irshad Mobarak is The Datai’s resident naturalist and he takes tours of the surrounding rainforest, sharing his passion for nature and wildlife.

Before Michel leaves, he joins an early morning nature trail to

come face to face with families of dusky langur monkeys and to gaze up at vast strangler fig trees.

“This place is like a dream,” concludes Michel, “from the local market to the hotel’s design, which subtly hides the place within the rainforest.”

It sounds like a return trip might be on the cards for The Waterside Inn’s global ambassador.

For information,visit thedatai.com

How to get there

Bespoke travel experts ExperienceTravel Group (0203 468 6268; experiencetravelgroup.com) offers a seven-night stay atThe Datai Langkawi from £1,534 per person.This includes accommodation in a Canopy Deluxe room,daily breakfast,transfers and return flights with MalaysiaAirlines.

William Sitwell flew with MalaysiaAirlines,which operates two daily A380 flights from London Heathrow to Kuala Lumpur.From Kuala Lumpur,the airline offers six daily flights to Langkawi.Flights to Langkawi from London start at £739 in economy class and £3,839 in business class.malaysiaairlines.com

“This is a place of amazing food,wonderful ingredients,beautiful landscapes and a fascinating culture”

Tropical bliss

The Datai has 122 elegant villas,suites and rooms with sea or rainforest views.Below: beach villas are spacious,private and luxurious

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Leaves may be brown and skies grey but The Waterside Inn offers rest and relaxation with comforting food and the dreamiest rooms

WATERSIDE INN SEASONS 74 WARMEST WELCOME

Introducing winter’s finest

INGREDIENTS

ROAST PHEASANT

The Waterside Inn chefs always wait for a spell of cold weather before putting pheasant on the menu; it makes the birds more plump and succulent. The chefs prefer delicate hens for roasting and cockerels for casseroles.

What to do with sprouts

Brussels sprouts are best harvested after a frost or two,because this enhances their flavour and sweetness.Butter roasted or mashed with cream are our favourite ways to serve them.

WINTER

Best of the season

VEGETABLES

Our creative chefs have plenty to inspire them in winter. Sticks of Brussels sprouts, handfuls of purple sprouting broccoli and root vegetables including beetroot, Jerusalem artichokes, parsnips, potatoes and celeriac all provide the perfect foil for roast game such as pheasant as well as slow-cooked weekend dishes.

FESTIVE

Beautifully decorated trees and rooms, roaring log fi res, a warm welcome and perfect food are guaranteed to bring comfort and joy

A FAVOURITE TIME OF YEAR

“Many of our Christmas guests have been coming here for almost 30 years. Now they arrive, full of smiles, with excited grandchildren in tow. The stage is set for a very happy celebration.” Diego Masciaga

COCKTAILS

the ing redients into

from

chilled

throwing

part of the

a few times to oxygenate the martini and create a smooth

in a rocks glass with a big crystal ice ball and

with a twist of zest.

TEMPTATION MARTINI

l 60ml homemade hot chocolate

l 25ml Bruichladdich whisky

l 30ml green Chartreuse

l cocoa powder and lemon zest, to decorate

Put all the ing redients except the cocoa powder and lemon zest into a shaker, add ice and shake well. Strain into a chilled coupe, decorate with the cocoa powder and lemon zest and serve.

BLACK VELVET

l Guinness

l champagne,chilled

l 1 maraschino cherry,to decorate

Take a cold champagne glass and quarter fill with Guinness, then top up with the chilled champagne. Decorate with a maraschino cherry and serve.

“Cocktails are masterpieces from our predecessors and have become part of our world.We must keep the art alive,reworking to ensure they are passed on to our successors”

On paper,Michel Roux is probably the favourite.Over the years he has appeared frequently on BBC One’s Saturday Kitchen,competing in James Martin’s three-egg omelette challenge,so he has experience and form.Alain,the underdog,laughs off suggestions that he has been practising for this father-son contest.

The frying pans are piping hot, and the ingredients are ready to be transformed: three eggs, unsalted

CHALLENGE

butter, a pinch of sea salt and – to finish – a hefty, enticingly perfumed black truffle. And they’re off!

The gas is on high and the butter goes into the pan. It melts, then bubbles and foams.

The eggs are lightly beaten, then poured into the pan. A pinch of salt joins the mix.

The egg cooks swiftly. The omelette is folded and then, after a few more seconds in the hot pan,

is transferred onto a warm plate.

Reach for the truffle. Alain grates several slivers onto the top of the golden omelette. Michel prefers one slice on top of his plump creation.

Voilà! The clock is stopped. Alain is the victor, cooking his omelette in 48 seconds compared to Michel’s 52.

“Yes,” says Michel, “but try his and taste mine and notice the difference.” Chefs? Competitive? Perish the thought.

Michel and Alain’s WORDS James Steen

A Designer Christmas by Christian Lacroix for Valrhona

Come and discover our exclusive range of indulgent Christmas treats in the new Christian Lacroix designer packaging, perfect for sharing over Christmas.