Roux Scholarship Sweden 2023

SWEDEN JOURNAL 2023

SWEDEN JOURNAL 2023

EKSTEDT

STOCKHOLMS BRÄNNERI OMNIPOLLO

SOCKER SUCKER STUREHOFF RÖDA HUSET

FRANTZÉN

ÄNGSÖ FISK

KALTHOFF AXES

VETE-KATTEN

AIRA

ÖSTERMALMS SALUHALL

PORTAL

MATKARAVAN FOOD TOUR

- FISKEHODDORNA

- TWO FORKS

- FRUKTSTEREO

- LILLA KAFFEROSTERIET

- SAFFRANSTORP

- SOLDATTORPETS MEJERI

- RESTAURANT SAUVAGE

MALMÖ SALUHALL

HYLLIE BRYGGERI BREWERY

PÅ SKISSERNAS

MAGNUS NILSSON FERDINAND VINBAR

THORA VINEYARD ALCHEMIST

BOTILDENBORG

PER-ANDERS JÖRGENSEN AND LOTTA JÖRGENSEN

RUTH’S

WELCOME

From Dubai to Tokyo, New York to the Black Forest, each Scholarship trip has been special, but this one was exceptional. The first without my dad and Andrew Fairlie, the first since 2016 to California, and the first since the pandemic. With plans having been scrapped twice, I felt a sense of triumph and emotion as I set forth on our whirlwind Swedish culinary tour.

Upon flicking through this book, some might think such a trip is an excuse for a holiday, but I assure you it’s not! The trips are an important opportunity to take the scholars out of their kitchens to broaden their horizons whilst forging special alliances abroad and strengthening the bonds between us. Each trip is bespoke with customised visits giving the rarest of insights. We meet the chefs, tour their kitchens, visit the markets, farms, wineries, suppliers, meeting professionals and artisans who share our passion for what they do.

A year in the planning, it was everything and more than I hoped for! We’re indebted to Chefs Björn Frantzén, Niklas Ekstedt and the amazing Sanna Lindberg who helped us squeeze into ten days enough variety and inspiration to last a lifetime, in one of the world’s most exciting culinary destinations. A tale of two cities, we experienced a vivid contrast between Stockholm on the east coast, a beautiful city known for its historical charm, and Malmö and the county of Skåne to the south, with its wild countryside, coastline and beaches.

Our tour encompassed the modest and celebrated, both venues and people. It was all unforgettable, but standout memories in Stockholm include an incredible evening spoilt by the hospitality and skill of Björn and his team at Frantzén, the first restaurant in Sweden to be awarded three Michelin stars and top of all our bucket lists. A fascinating evening spent with Chef Niklas at his restaurant Ekstedt, watching him and his team cook our meal over flames. Yet food is only half the story; I will never forget a morning spent out on a freshwater lake with fisherman, Per Vidlund, as he regaled us with stories and demonstrated his masterly fish butchery skills; then returning to help his wife, Pauline and friend Peter who

prepared our catch for lunch. Equally, I treasure the memory of our adventure in the forest with craftsman, Julia Kalthoff, learning to carve with axes before enjoying bonfire hot dogs under the stars.

We hit the ground running in Malmö, with Matkaravan’s tour that took us to small towns where we discovered the best hummus we’d ever tasted at Two Forks and picked saffron in the fields at Saffranstorp, Northern Europe’s largest saffron farm. A few days later, we were welcomed by Magnus Nilsson, former chef owner of world-famous Restaurant Fäviken, to his apple farm in Axesltorp, Skäne, teaching us about sustainability and discussing the future of the food industry. Followed by an incredible afternoon touring Thora Vineyard, where Heather and Johan Öberg welcomed us into their beautiful seaside home for a delicious meal enhanced by their wines. We were thrilled to visit Alchemist in Copenhagen, where innovation and sustainability take the restaurant experience to a level none of us could have imagined.

We have returned newly inspired and invigorated, eager to share what we’ve learned. I hope this book bears tribute to the amazing generosity and friendship of our hosts, who gave their precious time and showed us the true meaning of hospitality. Not forgetting the support of our sponsors, without whom such a trip would be impossible. I hope, too, that this book serves as a celebration of our scholars, each carving their own destiny whilst promoting the UK hospitality industry at home and abroad.

And finally, a big thank you to Kristin, for helping guide us around Sweden, to Carolyn for simply everything and Jodi for the amazing photos.

Sit back and enjoy the ride!

Alain Roux Co-Chairman Roux Scholarship

THE PARTICIPANTS

ALAIN ROUX

Chef-Patron of the three-star Michelin The Waterside Inn and Roux at Skindles

Together with his cousin Michel Roux, Alain is co-chairman of The Roux Scholarship. He is dedicated to developing the UK’s next generation of chefs, as he continues The Roux Family’s great contribution to the country’s culinary landscape.

HRISHIKESH DESAI

Chef-Patron, Farlam Hall, Cumbria

Hrishikesh won the Roux Scholarship in 2009, having developed a talent for classic French cuisine while training at Institut Paul Bocuse in Lyon. He has worked at Michelinstarred establishments throughout the UK and started his current role in April 2023, winning a Michelin star just 10 months later.

SIMON HULSTONE

Chef-Patron of the one-star Michelin restaurant The Elephant in Torquay, Devon.

Simon won The Roux Scholarship in 2003 and was one of three Roux Scholars appointed to the competition’s judging panel in 2016. His extensive experience with several chef competitions also includes representing Great Britain in the Bocuse d’Or in both 2009 and 2011.

KENNETH CULHANE

Head Chef, The Dysart Petersham, Surrey

Kenneth won the Roux Scholarship in 2010, having previously worked in Ireland, Australia and France. He was inspired to enter the competition by his college lecturer – James Carberry. Following his win, Kenneth joined the family-run restaurant The Dysart and won its first Michelin star in 2020.

JAMES CARBERRY

Senior lecturer at the School of Culinary Arts and Food Technology, Dublin James won The Roux Scholarship in 1992. After a number of years working in restaurants around Dublin and at the Electricity Supply Board, he became a lecturer and his brilliant connections with top class restaurants abroad help his students gain amazing placements to help their careers.

ADAM SMITH MCA

Executive Chef, Coworth Park, Berkshire

Adam won The Roux Scholarship in 2012, while he was working at The Ritz in London. He is an experienced competition chef, having won several other titles including on the Craft Guild of Chefs Young Chef of the Year award in 2010. He took the reins at Coworth Park in 2016 and has held a Michelin star since 2017.

STEVE LOVE MCA

Private chef on super yachts

Steve won the Roux Scholarship in 1997. His career has seen him take roles as head chef of Relais & Chateaux properties and run his own restaurants. More recently, Steve has worked as a private chef on super yachts, currently working on board M/Y Triumph, a role that has allowed him to work all over the Mediterranean, the Caribbean and the US.

MARTIN CARABOTT

Head Chef, Hide, London

Martin won The Roux Scholarship in 2018, while working at Hide, where he has worked since and risen to the role of Head Chef. Originally from Malta, he previously worked in several top restaurants in London. He has many other accolades to his name, including the Royal Academy of Culinary Arts Annual Award of Excellence in 2014.

OLI WILLIAMSON

Head Chef, La Table de Montaigne, Bordeaux

Oli won the title of Roux Scholar 2020/ 2021 after the competition was twice postponed due to the Covid-19 pandemic. His career didn’t suffer and during this time, he was promoted to Head Chef of The Fat Duck in Bray. Since our Sweden trip, Oli has moved to France to take up an exciting role in Bordeaux.

THE TEAM

CAROLYN BOYD

Communications Manager, The Roux Scholarship

Carolyn accompanied the group to help with organisation, social media and the creation of this book. Her part-time role with the Scholarship includes organising the award ceremony and dinner, all stakeholder communications, managing the website and social media. For her other work, she is a writer and author who specialises in France travel and food.

JONATHAN FERGUSON

Sous Chef, The French Laundry, California

Jonathan won The Roux Scholarship in 2022 while working at The Glenturret Lalique restaurant in Crieff, Scotland. He was originally inspired to enter the competition while working for the very first winner, Andrew Fairlie. Having completed his stage at The French Laundry, he has returned to California for a full-time position at the restaurant.

KRISTIN MAGNUSSON

Friend of The Roux Family and Roux Scholarship

We were lucky to call on the company of Kristin, a life-long friend of The Roux Family, who – thanks to her Swedish heritage – helped us with language barriers and organisation of the trip. Kristin is an acclaimed jewellery designer in London whose jewellery has been worn by Catherine, Princess of Wales. www.kristinm.co.uk

APRIL LILY PARTRIDGE

Sous Chef, The Ledbury, London

April won The Roux Scholarship in 2023 while working as Sous Chef at The Ledbury in London. She was the first Roux Scholar to take advantage of the new-style star prize, which included taking short educational stages, which has taken her to Australia and many other amazing places to learn more about her craft.

JODI HINDS

Jodi is The Roux Scholarship’s official photographer and has shot the London regional finals, national finals, and award ceremonies since 2017. She is the go-to photographer for the London hospitality scene, having photographed the food and chefs at restaurants including Le Gavroche, The Ritz, and The Savoy. She is also the official photographer for the Great Britain Bocuse d’Or team.

Photographer

EKSTEDT

Humlegårdsgatan 17, Stockholm

Dinner at EKSTEDT.NU

2nd October 2023

BY JONATHAN FERGUSON

Ekstedt was the first meal of our trip, which was definitely needed after an early start and journey from Heathrow to Stockholm.

We were welcomed to Ekstedt with glasses of champagne and one of the most intoxicating aromas I’ve ever experienced in a restaurant, the wood fire was very special indeed. Niklas Ekstedt gave us a brief talk about his ethos about blending traditional Swedish techniques with modern cooking, and why he’s gone down the road he has in terms of style of cooking, then guided us into the kitchen to serve a few small bites. Each snack was heavily influenced by the wood fire that flickered in front of us, including scallops cooked directly on said fire and oysters flamed with beef fat.

Back in the dining room we were served a multi-course dinner menu, I particularly enjoyed the bread serving. House-made butter was served in a dish, with smoked whey from the butter making process poured hot over the top. I loved dipping the bread between the hot and cold, a first-class bread course.

This meal was flanked by two different beverage trips; first to Stockholms Branneri distillery for a spirit tasting and tour. Personally, I’m a big fan of gin, it was great to see the Swedish influence on the botanicals that were being used.

The following morning, we visited Omnipollo Brewery for a tour and craft beer tasting. Organising a brewery tour the morning after the first evening was heavily questioned but a few pints at the start sorted some sore heads out quickly. The location in a converted church was unique for sure, too!

Pictured (clockwise from top left):

Alain Roux and Niklas Ekstedt, who welcomed us so warmly and even opened the restaurant to us when it was usually closed; among the incredible dishes was the seaweed-baked langoustine, parsley root and solaris; we watched Chef Niklas and his brigade prepare our meal over burning coals and flamed with beef fat; another dish was juniper-fired roe deer, matsutake and juniper brioche; ember-baked scallop and sturgeon caviar

STOCKHOLMS BRÄNNERI

Folkungatan 136, Sodermalm

STOCKHOLMSBRANNERI.COM

Drinks at 2nd October 2023

Pictured:

At Stockholms Bränneri distillery, we learned how founders Anna and Calle developed their spirits using local ingredients. As well as creating gin, their range includes Akvavit, the Scandinavian gin which is infused with dill flower, caraway, fennel seeds, and elderflower. We enjoyed cocktails in their bar made by star mixologist Sean Eden

Pictured:

Our visit to Omnipollo brewery, set in a former church, was an excellent insight into how they make their beers and their marketing and packaging featuring original and striking artwork

Drottninggatan 93, Stockholm

SOCKERSUCKER.SE

3rd October 2023

3rd October 2023

Pictured:

Our Sweden trip had to include meatballs at Stockholm’s traditional restaurant Sturehof

Malmskillnadsgatan 9, Stockholm

3rd October 2023 RODAHUSET.NU

Pictured: Cocktails made with traditional Swedish ingredients at the stylish bar Röda Huset

Dinner at

FRANTZÉN

Klara Norra Kyrkogata 26, Stockholm

RESTAURANTFRANTZEN.COM

3rd October 2023

BY APRIL LILY PARTRIDGE

I have long wanted to go to Restaurant Frantzén. It was a mesmerising meal, a masterclass in cookery and service and world class in every aspect from the moment we arrived at the iconic front door, with the golden rat in the window.

We began with snacks in a beautiful room that felt like you were in a friend’s living room. There were books surrounding us, lovely arm chairs and a warm gentle atmosphere. A small sharp kitchen lay ahead with a number of chefs preparing snacks. When the snacks began to arrive, we knew we were in for something special: pâte à choux, a green tartlet of crustacean and dill with perfectly placed radish laying over it like a perfect dome; a macaron like I have never experienced with bird’s liver, grapefruit, pink peppercorn and tarragon. I mean, these guys, were not here to mess around. There was a moment when we all looked around at each other with huge smiles on our faces at the pure joy and pleasure these small bites were giving us, and that moment will stay with me forever.

Pictured:

Alain Roux and Björn Frantzén photographed after our incredible meal; ‘macaron’ with bird’s liver, grapefruit, pink pepper and tarragon; Chef Björn deep in focus; cooking over wood, a nod to the traditions of Sweden

When the snacks were finished, we were shown a box of the ingredients and products that would go into the dishes we would be eating throughout the meal, this was very intriguing and was a taste of what was to come.

We were then taken to the dining area for the main part of our meal. It was like a huge kitchen counter where all of our group sat together to enjoy this special moment. When we arrived in our smaller groups, I think we had naturally presumed we would all be on separate tables, so this was the real icing on the cake to be sitting all together especially as, for so many of us, Frantzén had been top of our chef bucket lists. The kitchen was full of fire, and passion but controlled professionalism.

One of the first things we ate was a dish of blue lobster with nishiki rice, galangal and pine nut. We ate this with chop sticks, it was so unfussy and so delicious –a dish with huge wow factor. There was some particular stand-out dishes for me (not to forget the world class wine pairing): I especially loved the wagyu beef with fermented Kampot pepper and the French toast with grilled eel and spring onion emulsion. But by far the stand out dish for me was the iconic dish of Bjorn Franzen: onion, liquorice and almond, it was a symphony of flavour like I have never tasted before.

Chef Björn is one of the greatest chefs of our time; he was there that evening, cool calm and collected. He has been a previous Honorary Judge of The Roux Scholarship (2021 - the year Oli won) and it was amazing to meet him in real life. It was, by far, the best meal of my life.

Pictured:

A visit the kitchens; the joy of each dish served at our kitchen-counter style tables by skilled and knowledgable chefs, who talked us through the ingredients and cooking styles; a group picture outside the restaurant the morning after the night before (top right).

ÄNGSÖ FISK

Dinner at Ängs Ö Skurusund 725 98, Västerås

ANGSOFISK.SE

4th October 2023

BY MARTIN CARABOTT

Early that morning, we set off from Stockholm for Ängskö Fisk where we were shown around by fisherman Per Vidlund. After being given weather-proof clothing and life jackets, we split into two boats, we set off on to the lake to be shown the traps.

Per uses a unique technique where larger nets are gradually filtered into smaller ones, eventually ending in a small trap. The boat pulled up alongside one of these and revealed our catch – a few pike. The biggest ones were transferred to an icebox so we could work on them later.

When we were moored back on shore, Per showed us the Japanese ike-jime method of dispatching fish, as he is the only Swedish fisherman to do it. The technique results in better quality fish, especially for dry aging. In short, this involves inserting a spike into the brain, then making an incision and severing both ends of the spine, a metal wire is then pushed through the spine to destroy all the nerve endings. The fish is then placed in ice. As the heart would still be beating, most of the blood (which speeds up deterioration in fish) is pumped out. I had heard of the ike-jime method before our day with Per, however seeing it first hand and trying it out myself was an incredible and enriching experience. It was similar to having successfully tempered chocolate or prepared an artichoke for the first time. The experience will stay with me for a very long time.

After this, we visited the fishery’s restaurant for a selection of fish which is smoked on site; we had some drinks and a nice lunch of pike and potatoes.

Pictured:

A morning out on the lake with Per Vidlund; Martin had a try at the ike-jime method with the fish; a group shot in the grounds of the fishery

Dinner at

Tomtebogatan 43, Stockholm KALTHOFF AXES

KALTHOFFAXES.SE

4th October 2023

BY JAMES CARBERRY

On most Roux Scholarship trips, we don’t often go off the main subject areas involved in cooking. When we do, the group can be unsure of what to expect. Meet Julia Kalthoff also known as the Axe Lady. She is an artisan maker of hand-made axes and a keen wood carver.

We began our visit at Julia’s workshop and studio in central Stockholm and saw first-hand how she and her team make their axes. She made us feel at home with strong coffee, and all of us gathered around her as she spoke, and showed us how she shaved the elm-wood handle of her next creation. It was lovely to watch an expert wood carver at work. We all appreciated the high standard of hand craftsmanship. We watched as she sharpened the best of Swedish steel into a razor-sharp edge.

Next, our field trip took us to Julia’s shed in the local park where we set up the wood carving stumps. I cut myself unsheathing my axe; these things are sharper than expected! Hrishikesh needed a plaster too.

After she showed us the various techniques, we all had a go at carving something from a wooden log. Always up for a challenge, we feverishly got to work with our ideas carving a spoon, bear or chopping board. I made my best effort to make a spoon. None of us had ever done this before, it was great craic followed by a campfire BBQ.

I gladly took an axe and sharpening stone back to Dublin with me. Many thanks to Julia.

Pictured (left page): Julia Kalthoff in her workshop; Jonnie perfecting his carving technique; Julia lighting the fire and demonstrating (above); Alain enjoying the day

Fika

VETE-KATTEN

Kungsgatan 55, Stockholm

VETEKATTEN.SE

5th October 2023

BY JAMES CARBERRY

Since the 19th century, fika - a slang word for coffeehas been an important part of the Swedish tradition of enjoying a leisurely coffee with family and friends.

With the end of World War II and rationing, the Swedes enjoyed their coffee with sweet pastries of all kinds, which thankfully endures to this day in the hearts and minds of all Swedes. By the way, you must offer seven different types of cakes, less than seven and you’re a skinflint, more than seven and you’re a show off!

The day started by taking a morning stroll through the beautiful city of Stockholm led by the wonderful Kristin Magnusson and then we embarked upon our first venue of the day Vete-Katten. This is one of the oldest and most revered cafés in Sweden.

Johan Sandelin, the owner and master pastry chef, greeted us with genuine, warm hospitality. Still in his whites and commanding a 40-strong brigade of bakers and confectioners, he takes his role comfortably in his stride.

Johan took us on a behind-the-scenes, all-access tour of his busy and impressive kitchens and reception rooms, they were bigger than you would believe and decorated with cats everywhere – hence its name. It was the first time I had seen a water-jet cutting machine. Vete-Katten may be steeped in almost 100 years of tradition, but it is up to date with state-of-the-art technology. It was brilliant to visit this place, if you are ever in Stockholm, this is a mustsee venue.

Lunch at AIRA

Biskopsvägen 9, Stockholm

AIRA.SE

5th October 2023

Pictured:

The exquisite presentation of dishes at Aira; a tour of the kitchen; the group with the restaurant's front of house and kitchen teams

BY SIMON HULSTONE

Aira is a restaurant I personally have wanted to dine at for some time. The chef Tommy Myllymäki was a competitor of the Bocuse d’Or when I competed, and we had a good professional relationship during and after the competition.

Tommy was a lot more successful than me winning both a silver and bronze Bocuse awards over the two years he competed. Tommy is now a celebrity in Sweden and is a judge on MasterChef as well as his restaurant winning two stars in the Michelin guide. Located on an island within Stockholm I was informed it was a royal private island and parks with a beautiful marina and a restaurant built into an old wharf building.

The award-winning architecture – which you come to expect in Scandinavia - gave us the chance to have a team photo in our whites outside of the restaurant in the park. The restaurant itself is stunning, made from wood, glass, rusted

metal and beautiful hanging linens and sculptures, it truly is magnificent with great views into Stockholm harbour.

The open kitchen is split into two sides that you walk through to get to your table. The kitchen is surrounded by ceilinghigh wine fridges and it is stunning. We were treated to a lovely four-course luncheon menu with snacks and nibbles and petit fours all with perfectly selected wines to match.

The style of food was exactly what I was expecting from a skilled chef like Tommy and the finesse and personal touches really bought the dishes to life. The use of moulds and stencils added a consistency and uniformity to the dishes, but in some ways felt a little artificial. This did not distract from the skills and flavours being put in front of us. The quality of ingredients was top notch with both local and French cuisine on show. A quick tour of the restaurant followed lunch and then we had a lovely walk back through the park to our next meal.

ÖSTERMALMS SALUHALL

Östermalmstorg, Stockholm

OSTERMALMSHALLEN.SE

5th October 2023

Dinner at PORTAL

St Eriksplan 1, Stockholm

PORTALRESTAURANT.SE

5th October 2023

Pictured:

A tour of the food hall in Stockholm with its editor-in-chief, Lina Bielsten; we enjoyed charcturie made from bear, reindeer and elk, and Swedish cheeses

BY MARTIN CARABOTT

After our visit to the impressive Ostermalms food hall, we headed off to Portal restaurant for dinner. The chef there is Klas Lindberg, Sanna’s husband, who welcomed us to his beautiful restaurant and showed us down to a private room, called The Studio which normally hosts private Chef’s Table events. Here, we settled in with some drinks and canapés whilst Klas and his team told us about their work, using small producers and sustainable work practices to deliver a world-class dining experience to a broader range of guests.

Klas and his team forage for a lot of produce when it comes into season; they then preserve it for use throughout the year. A tour of the back of house areas, including the kitchens followed this. Everyone was impressed by how sustainable practices - normally exclusively seen in small restaurants - were implemented

on a larger scale at Portal and made to work effectively. It’s also good to note that most of the ingredients used at Portal are sourced from the local areas, with no air miles.

Having seen the engine room, we went up a set of stairs and emerged from behind an upstairs bar, to the surprise of some drinkers sat there, then we were shown to a larger private dining area, separated from the main dining room with large thick curtains where we sat down for a brilliant and inspiring dinner.

Klas then had us all sign a walk-in fridge door, from the first fridge at the restaurant, kept as a memento after replacement, for Chefs and other VIPs to sign when visiting the restaurant. We rounded off the evening with some post-dinner drinks at the bar, in preparation for some karaoke later that night.

MATKARAVAN FOOD TOUR

MATKARAVAN.SE/MALMÖ

6th October 2023

After travelling from Stockholm to Malmö, we started our food tour with Matkaravan with a visit to Fiskehoddorna, a salmon smokery where we tasted their delicious salmon and herring and learned about the history of fishing in Malmö and the smoking process.

Pictured:

Tasting the herring and hot smoked salmon at Fiskehoddorna, Malmö

FISKEHODDORNA.SE

FISKEHODDORNA

TWO FORKS HUMMUS SHOP

BY KENNETH CULHANE

We were ushered out of the blustery rain by Charlotte and Matan and immediately given a warm welcome into their new home at Two Forks Hummus Shop. They started an introduction of their backgrounds and journey in life thus far, as Charlotte worked on a small scale farm and Matan, in his time, worked as a chef in various restaurants (the name represents the fork used in both farming and in restaurants). For them, food is a symbol of cultural expression; it reflects all aspects of human nature. For them growing and cooking food gives us humans purpose, as individuals, as a community and as a society, it gives meaning directly connecting us to the ecosystems.

They wish to dedicate their lives to making sure that the food that feeds us is good and wholesome, nutrient-rich and toxin-free. It was incredibly interesting and exciting to see farm-to-plate in practice. The soundtrack – the blues-influenced, whiskey growls music of Tom Waits’ Swordfishtrombones – belted out in the background, and with his humorous, beautiful, non-conformist songwriting and storytelling, it seemed truly apt for the moment we were about to share together.

We enjoyed many dishes such as a fried aubergine Schnitzel, pickled red onions, an amazingly smooth bowl of fresh, warm hummus, with toasted pine nuts and warm pitta breads, along with some wonderfully flavoured fermented vegetables to name a few of the dishes.

The hummus was certainly the best we’ve tasted, but all the rest of the dishes were

clever and, importantly, super delicious. It was truly intriguing to see a newly opened restaurant create a very unique special experience in the world of food, genuine and warm. While Matan’s striking resemblance to Frank Zappa – as well as the photos of the star on the walls – reminded me of his wise words, which sum up all our Roux Scholarship trips: ‘“A mind is like a parachute, it doesn’t work if it’s not open.”

FRUKTSTEREO

The chefs learned about Swedish cider and discovered how it is is more sour than English and Irish cider

Pictured:

LILLA KAFFEROSTERIET

Pictured:

Learning about coffee with fika at one of Malmö's best coffee producers

BY KENNETH CULHANE

We weren’t blessed with the weather on the day of our Matkaravan tour of some of Malmö’s most interesting food businesses, but we all soldiered on through the wind and short bursts of rain. One of the stops was with the Adamov family’s saffron farm, just outside Staffanstorp.

They started the farm as a hobby but it has developed into more of a business over the past few years as they have grown saffron for the last nine seasons. Today, it is one of Northern Europe’s largest open-air saffron farms. Despite the snow and cold, the saffron crocuses thrive on the Scanian plain as we saw so many flowers along the meadows.

At Saffranstorp, the last two months of the year mean harvesting the saffron crocuses, which are then in full bloom. Although a large part of the world’s saffron today is grown in warmer countries such as Iran and Afghanistan, the climate was not a problem, even when the winters are cold. The family had to really think about whether there would be enough heat for them to bloom, they now know that they can withstand both the cold and the frost.

In the run-up to Christmas, all their work is focussed on Saffranstorp. The first flowers start to appear in September to October and, two months later, everything is harvested. From planting to harvest, the cultivations are not particularly demanding, not even in winter, said Silvia. It was amazing to hear that in times of harvesting, cleaning and finally drying, the whole family helps out and everything is done by hand.

The flowers are very delicate and when we picked them, they really stained our hands with a deep yellow colouration. It takes 100-150 flowers to extract one gram of saffron. It was incredible again to meet with such a passionate and unique family expressing their love and passions through nature, what another wonderful and enlightening experience.

SOLDATTORPETS MEJERI

Pictured: Our penultimate stop on our Matkaravan tour was with the cheese producer Soldattorpets Mejeri where we heard about their different cheeses and also enjoyed some apple cake and cider

RESTAURANT SAUVAGE

SAUVAGE-MALMO.SE/EN

To finish the day, we enjoyed a four-hands dinner at the Restaurant Sauvage in the hipster neighbourhood of Möllevången which uses only local suppliers for seasonal produce. The chefs were Jörgen Lloyd from Restaurant Lyran and Chef David Kjellenius from Sauvage.

Gibraltargatan 6,

MALMOSALUHALL.SE

7th October 2023

BY ADAM SMITH MCA

Malmö Saluhall had been a dream of siblings Martin and Nina Karyd. When an old derelict goods warehouse, which had been sat empty since 1955, became available they jumped at the chance to create something special for the foodies of Malmö.

We arrived at the market and were greeted and shown to a restaurant on the far side; what hit me first was the atmosphere and the buzz! It was something that unfortunately I don’t feel we see enough of in the UK. As we walked through there were plenty of people eating, chatting and enjoying themselves and the atmosphere was electric.

Before we enjoyed an amazing lunch, we were shown a presentation of the history and story of the building and food hall. Lunch was fantastic, simple real food, done really well, starting with some roll mops with poached egg on toast with some crispy potatoes, followed by a sole for main course. The real highlight for me was the dessert; some of the best ice cream I’ve ever had from Favvo Glass

one of the market stall holders, beautiful handmade ice cream that the husband and wife team produce every day. The pistachio was amazing!

A few of us went back a couple of times over the next few days to enjoy ramen, pizza and I even bought chocolates to bring home for my fiancé.

What really hit me about all of the places I saw and tried within Malmö Saluhall was that the owners have built an exciting foodie environment and have picked out the best vendors who all share the same vision for quality, no matter what their business. The quality of the ramen, the authenticity of the pizza, the freshness of the fish and craftsmanship of the chocolates were all world class.

The true test of any restaurant and business is how busy you are, Malmö Saluhall was full of happy people, all willing to wait for great food! A must-go place to visit when in Malmö!

Pictured:

A feast on offer at the Malmö Saluhall; for lunch we had an excellent meal including fish and potatoes, then ice cream

Drinks at

HYLLIE BRYGGERI BREWERY

Stormgatan 15, Malmö

HYLLIEBRYGGERI. SE

7th October 2023

BY STEVE LOVE MCA

When we arrived at the brewery, I wasn’t sure what to expect but, when you walked in, all the artwork on the walls was amazing and this gave it a great atmosphere and brought the place alive, considering it was an industrial unit.

This was also reflected in the artwork on the beer cans all telling their own stories, where the ideas for the beer flavours and concepts had come from, all of which must help sell their products.

Tasting the beer itself was a great experience; they had crisp clear flavours and the food that we were kindly given was also very tasty and complimented the beers very well.

The passion of the guys behind the brewery also sang out when they were talking about the experience of starting up the brewery and their production processes for their very tasty beers.

(This page, clockwise from top right), April, Martin and Alain listening to Michael as he showed us around the brewery; the brilliant artwork that has become integral to the brewery's identity; Sales Manager Christopher Mathiasson explaining more about the brewery's ethos and operation

Pictured:

(Left page) One of the brewery's founders Michael Nathorst explained more about their operation and how they came to set up the brewery, along with some tastings of their exellent beers.

Dinner at

PÅ SKISSERNAS

Skissernas Museum, Finngatan 2, Lund

PASKISSERNAS.SE

7th October 2023

BY CAROLYN BOYD

Our meal at På Skissernas gave us the chance to explore Lund, Sweden’s second oldest which is city 20km from Malmö. We arrived early and so had some time to stroll its cobbled streets, lined with pretty cottages with roses around their doors and colourfully painted mansions.

It’s a university town - reminiscent of Oxford for all its bicycles – and as we explored, students in ball gowns, tuxedos and finery streamed past us en route to an annual ball. After some drinks in the main square, we wandered back to the Skissernas Museum, which is a centre for artistic process and public art.

The museum was closing, but we had an exclusive look at one of the main rooms and its modern art. The restaurant På Skissernas is set in a modern extension to the museum and its interior was beautiful – stripped back Scandi style, with leather seats and wooden ceiling beams. The large picture windows looked out on to the surrounding park, which brought a sense of nature into the space.

Head chef Mattias Jönsson Caesar is known for his focus on nature and craftsmanship. Our menu ‘Ocean & Land’ was prepared by his sous Adam Beyer O’Brien, and dishes included tomato with bee pollen garum, coriander seeds and semi-dried strawberries – we noticed that a few of the chefs we met on the trip had used small, unripe wild strawberries in their dishes that brought freshness to them.

The malt bread was particularly interesting: very dark rye sourdough with cultured butter in its buttermilk –a style of serving we had come to appreciate throughout Sweden. This was followed by a delicious fish dish, hay-smoked mussels with leek and Nordic XO-sauce; lamb with chanterelles, white-currant, ramson and fermented rye.

The final touch were the petit fours which included a saffron bun – a traditional pastry about which we’d heard so much.

BY KENNETH CULHANE

On the morning we visited Magnus Nilsson at his home on a beautiful apple and pear orchard, one thing he said particularly resonated with me: ‘Until we understand what the land is, we are at odds with everything we touch’.

Magnus came into the spotlight as the innovative head chef at Fäviken, the progressive 24-seat restaurant in the Swedish countryside that drew international acclaim before closing in December 2019.

He turned a remote Swedish hunting lodge into one of the world’s most highly praised progressively thoughtful businesses. The restaurant had two Michelin stars and was featured on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants.

He now lives in Axelstorp on a historic apple orchard on a 18-hectare plot of land on the south west Swedish coast in the region of Skåne. The journey up to this picturesque location surrounded by woodland, was wonderful; it has Laholm Bay as its backdrop.

Magnus welcomed us like family and had a log burning fire outside his home for us when we arrived. He spoke a lot about what inspired him to come to this location, he grew up on a farm and thus once he decided to step away from cookery wanted to return to his roots with his young family.

He certainly left an impression on the group as his fabulous orchard really puts into practice the true meaning of sustainability. We were amazed how each location Magnus showed us that morning seemed to have its own unique ecologically working systems in harmony with the orchards. It reminded me at times of an undisturbed primary forest, which sheltered all the apple and pear trees from the winds coming in off the ocean.

It’s so unique an orchard that produces 250 tonnes of apples, but isn’t trellised. The oldest tree dated back to the 1870s, with diverse varieties such as Mutsu Apple, Katja, Close and Doyenné de Juilliet pears.

He works tirelessly on protecting the ancient soil around the trees, which was abundant with mycelium, shrubs, ferns, wildflowers, lichen, mosses, and mushrooms; we even came across a beautifully tiny cep growing amongst the trees.

All the apples are picked in a very specific manner by hand to enable the trees to continue their fruiting cycles. His knowledge and understanding of each of the trees’

varieties was breath-taking, researching each of them to find the best ways to harvest the fruits with regards to flavours and sustainability. He also examines the ecological and environmental ecosystems for each variety, rather than choosing varieties for how well they can be transported or for how they look, as is the case for other modern apple producers.

My lasting impressions were of his courage, persistence, care; his infinite attention to detail and to understanding. I was deeply impressed by his decision not to pre-ordain: he’s not telling nature what to do, but daring to stand back and be amazed at the excitement, beauty and unlikeliness of what nature is and can be.

He gave a sense that he is at one with his trees as much as he is with himself; I couldn’t help but feel, as we walked away from him that morning, what we’d witnessed was nature as an extended self in motion. It also highlighted how incredibly lucky our group had been that morning to experience that moment and be welcomed like family into a new world.

Pictured:

(Previous page) Magnus welcomes us to the orchard, which has incredible views over the Skåne landscape to the coast. (This page) As part of our tour, Magnus took us to the woodland next to the orchard and explained his inspirational approach to working with nature. (Opposite page) We all came away from the visit completely inspired by Magnus Nilsson's approach to his orchard and the apples he grows.

Lunch at

FERDINAND VINBAR

Köpmansgatan 15, Båstad

FERDINANDVINBAR.SE

8th October 2023

BY JONATHAN FERGUSON

Straight after our trip to the orchard we headed into Båstad for lunch, visiting a place called Ferdinand Vinbar owned by the family of Swedish chef Martin Brag, who is Sweden’s Bocuse d’Or team coach.

A welcome glass of champagne was well received (by this point of the trip I’d accepted the fact we wouldn’t have a day off drinking), with a chance to have a quick chat with some of the staff. We were served a delicious family-style sharing lunch of varying salads, some great gnocchi and brilliantly cooked lamb shoulder, to name a few. I think one of the best compliments a restaurant can receive is to say: “It’s the kind of place hospitality staff want to visit on their days off”, and this absolutely fits into that category for me. Martin then joined us for a chat and to talk about his past competition experiences in Sweden, before we headed off for a wander along the beach.

Pictured:

Lunch at Ferdinand Vinbar, owned by the family of chef Martin Brag, in the pretty town of Båstad. Martin and his team served a delicious lunch of lamb shoulder, fresh salads and gnocchi as the autumn sun streamed through the windows; the team pose for a picture with the Roux Scholarship gang

BY JONATHAN FERGUSON

Located near Torekov and Båstad, Thora Vingård is a family-owned winery.

Dinner at

THORA VINEYARD

Dalen 43, Båstad

269 95 Båstad

THORAVINGARD.COM

8th October 2023

They produce both Solaris and Pinot Noir wines, but they also produce some Swedish-grown sparkling wine, made in the traditional champagne method. I hadn’t seen the process of disgorging before, so this was great to learn more about in the middle of the vineyard.

We were given some sparkling wine to try first, then we moved onto the white and red wines produced by the family. After our tasting we were served dinner, a family-style meal to share. At this stage of the trip after a lot of eating and drinking, I think I speak for most of us when I say it’s exactly what we wanted and needed!

Pictured:

(Clockwise from left page) Our visit to the vineyard was followed by a meal in the beautiful home of owners Heather and Johan Öberg. Our group enjoyed the meal as the sun set over the vineyard; winemakers Emma Berto and Romain Chichery, both from France, explained the style of wine; the family-style meal was prepared by a friend of the Öbergs, chef Tobias Millqvist; the view of the vineyard towards the sea; Emma and Romain; Alain enjoying the moment

Tasting at ALCHEMIST Refshalevej 173C

Copenhagen

ALCHEMIST.DK

9th October 2023

BY HRISHIKESH DESAI

Let’s start: two huge metal doors and eerie music being played while we waited for the doors to open. That wait itself created a quirky anticipation of what lay behind. The doors closed silently behind us and we were trapped in a small dark room with sounds playing at carefully selected frequencies to trick the brain.

We continued through to another room which looked onto the development kitchen; there was a wine cellar from ground to the third-floor ceiling which houses more than 10,000 bottles, and an island with beautiful hanging lights. We enjoyed a few incredible snacks and carefully selected beverages: I will never forget eating that lovely butterfly, the bread made in collaboration with NASA scientists and some cheesy fried doughnuts.

We followed the chef to the first floor where the grandeur of a dark room with a dome roof was revealed to us. It was a jaw-dropping experience just to enter the room but the projected images and crisp surround-sound system elevated the senses, and inspired a child-like expectation of what was next to come.

I feel the dome, the projected images and the music played rather took the attention needed on the food away for me.

The arrival of dishes coincided with striking images being projected onto the dome ceiling, thanks to some seriously high-tech, high definition, well-positioned cameras and acoustics at a level which intensely played with the nervous system of the brain. In other words, you could have gotten away by serving a poor dish as the diners fixated their attention towards the dome with curiosity as what will be projected? Does it coincide with their lives? Will it bring any emotions out?

Next, we entered a zone that really brought out our inner child and proved that age is just a number. A ball pool. Jumping into the balls, with disco lights and mirrors all around us allowed us a few minutes without anyone judging anybody. I do not know whether it was the same judgement during the karaoke nights we had in the bars at Stockholm. I think the ball pool was a crazy idea, a brave idea and showed confidence in Rasmus Munk and his team that Alchemist is not just a gimmick.

The kitchen tour and the technology available to use in the kitchen was splendid. Simply put, it was a creative playground for the chefs. We ended up in the top floor bar where a group photo was escorted back to planet earth in an elevator; even in here, there was a screen that showed dramatic graphics to add to the experience.

For me, Alchemist it is a place where all the senses come together for a unique dining experience, but some senses just work too much and take the attention away from the food and beverage. Perhaps a meal there is needed to fully understand Alchemist, but this taster experience was good. Rasmus Munk is no stranger when it comes to foodie competitions having represented Denmark in Bocuse d’Or, as well as winning the Danish Chef of the Year awards. I feel, at the Alchemist, you are not only seeing the unique sensorial dining experience but also it gives you a glimpse of Rasmus’s character.

Pictured:

(Previous pages) Appetisers in the welcome lounge; our visit concluded in the atmospheric bar; (Clockwise from top) Everyone connecting to their inner child in the ballpool; a group photo with Head of Development Theis Brydegaard in the bar area; Oli about to eat a butterfly; the group listening to the chefs explain each appetiser; bread made collaboration with NASA scientists; the warm cheese-filled savoury mochi rice cake

Urban farm visit

BOTILDENBORG

Västra Skrävlinge Kyrkoväg

12 Malmö

BOTILDENBORG.SE

9th October 2023

BY KENNETH CULHANE

Lena Friblick welcomed us to Botildenborg with some lovely tea and fika, which I think we were all starting to really get used to. Lena is a journalist and social entrepreneur with a master’s degree in political sciences. She set up Botildenborg as a sustainable farm and meeting place and it is tackling many of the issues and challenges faced by our society today.

She started by explaining to us the propositions and ethos of a business like Botildenborg and how it can make a difference in society. She talked about how food and farming is a tool for creating sustainability and how food and farming can create both ecological and economical sustainability.

She explained to us the importance of drawing on the very homely, human and cultural heart of human thinking and experiences, regardless of culture and creed and how food brings us together as communities, the importance of food and its intrinsic complexities as the great social communicator we can all relate to in the world.

To help to draw out what it means to us in practice and how we can approach living thoughtfully and responsibly, we need to start giving back to the earth. So much of it has been lost across great swathes of the countryside, sacrificed on the altar of ‘progress’. Industrial levels of productivity and the creation of abundance, encouraged by successive governments, national and across the world, has lead to unprecedented levels of misguided consumption, overproduction and profligate, immoral, waste and misdirection, when the world still sees massive hunger and damage to the planet’s key, essential resources.

It was amazing that we got to experience this inspirational project in action as we walked around the urban farm and even got to plant certain seedlings for a new harvest of crops of microgreens and mushrooms.

Pictured:

The group explores the farm; everyone had a chance to learn about growing mushrooms and plant our own as well as some microgreens

Drinks with

PER-ANDERS JÖRGENSEN AND LOTTA JÖRGENSEN

Fool Magazine

FOOL.SE

9th October 2023

BY KENNETH CULHANE

We were so warmly welcomed by art director Lotta Jörgensen and photographer Per-Anders Jörgensen in their studio and their world. They had kindly helped with a number of places we visited on the trip and it was really interesting to listen to how they developed Fool Magazine. where we enjoyed delicious wines, generously gifted by their office neighbour and wine import company, Tara.

The modern press, television, and publishing industries continuously grind out questions regarding food, it is ever-present in conversation, in opinions, in education, in our daily life now. Fool Magazine is very different as an independent magazine. Founded in 2011, it is regularly voted Best Gastronomic Magazine in the world.

It can be viewed as a cutting edge magazine on modern gastronomy and food culture. We saw this first-hand on the night how they were taking inspiration from fashion,

design and many cultures. It was amazing to hear how they built the magazine together, while travelling the world. We spoke about so many inspiring stories of the modern world of cookery and how they work so hard in finding the beauty in imperfection, telling many amazing stories with an uniqueness and a true understanding of the subject area. They are empowering gastronomy through intelligent design and innovative consultation.

They showed us some of the work they conducted with the best chefs in the world such as René Redzepi, Magnus Nilsson and Massimo Bottura to name a few. It was really intriguing to see how Lotta and Per-Anders represent the honesty and true identities of the characters they portray.

Pictures:

We were warmly welcomed by Per-Anders and Lotta in their studio, which is filled with an incredible gastronomic book library and prints of their work from Fool Magazine

Dinner at

RUTH’S

Mäster Johansgatan 11, Malmö

RUTHSMALMO.SE

9th October 2023

BY OLI WILLIAMSON

This incredible trip came to a finale at Ruth’s, where we all shared a delicious dinner one last time.

The moment was a perfect crescendo to the trip and highlighted exactly why we all love hospitality so much: to share memories and moments with great friends, food and of course, drink! The restaurant was recommended by local experts P-A and Lotta from Fool magazine, who joined us for the meal; and it couldn’t have been better.

The menu included delicious charcuterie, salads and pork belly with beans. After the meal, Alain led the toasts, tributes and the thank yous to mark our final night.

We definitely gave ourselves one last trip hangover with a a shot or two in the town square.

Pictured: A delicious meal at Ruth's cooked by chef Andy Dahlberg; Alain raising a toast to our hosts, our new Swedish friends and The Roux Scholarship family

ABOUT THE ROUX SCHOLARSHIP

In 1984, the late Michel Roux OBE and his late brother Albert held the first ever Roux Scholarship competition. It was designed to enable a new generation of chefs from Britain to train in the greatest restaurants in the world. Not only has it become the industry’s most acclaimed chef contest in the UK with many scholars having gone on to win Michelin stars themselves, it ranks among the most prestigious competitions for chefs in the world. Since it was established, it has helped British chefs gain the international recognition they deserve. With many young chefs entering the competition each year, it is true to say thousands have been inspired, and lives changed, by the experience of competing.

WITH SPECIAL THANKS

We would like to share our deepest thanks with everyone who welcomed us so warmly to their establishments. We owe a special thank you to those who helped us with the itinerary: Sanna Lindberg, P-A Jörgensen, Niklas Ekstedt and Björn Frantzén. We are also grateful to Niklas Bergstedt, Sales Director for Bridor (Nordics & Baltics) and his counterpart in Malmö, Johan Pugner, Bridor, Head of Sales Scandinavia and Iceland. A very special thank you to Lee Whitlock at The Waterside Inn, for her hours of preparation, research and planning, which all went towards creating this very special trip. We are grateful to Adam Vines at Lounge Design (loungedesign.co.uk) for the design and production of this book and to Carolyn Boyd for coordinating, commissioning and editing the project.

HOTELS

We are grateful to the following hotels for their warm welcome and excellent service:

Hotel Kungstradgarden

The King’s Garden, Kocksgränd 1, SE-118 58 Stockholm www.hotelkungstradgarden.se

Sponsors of The Roux Scholarship

Special thanks to our sponsors, without whom The Roux Scholarship could not exist

MJ’s Hotel

Mäster Johansgatan 13, 211 21, Malmö

https://mjs.life

Sanna with the Roux Scholarship gang