The Tree Growers Guide

A beginner’s guide to identifying and growing trees from seed, and starting a Community Tree Nursery Includes the updated Good Seed Guide with extra content online

WELCOME

Trees are essential to human life. It’s impossible to overstate how crucial they are. They produce the oxygen we breathe, store carbon in their trunks and roots, protect soils from erosion, reduce flooding and air pollution, and provide medicines, materials, food and shelter for millions of species on Earth, including us!

Growing a tree from a seed is an easy, simple act and can help reconnect us to our shared natural world. This guide has been produced by a team of experienced tree growers who want to share their love of trees and how to grow them, including:

n The Tree Council is a national charity bringing people together for the love of trees, inspiring and empowering communities to take meaningful action. www.treecouncil.org.uk

n Moor Trees is an independent charity dedicated to restoring native woodland on Dartmoor and in South Devon, improving the environment and connecting people with their forest heritage. https://moortrees.org

n Cornwall Council is working with people, organisations and communities to increase tree cover by 8,000ha as part of the Forest for Cornwall programme. www.cornwall.gov.uk

n Norfolk County Council represents the people of Norfolk and its environment, making Norfolk a great place to live and work. www.norfolk.gov.uk

Anybody can grow a tree almost anywhere. Why don’t you?

The Tree Grower’s Guide 2022 was created for you by:

The Tree Council

Registered charity no: 279000

Jon Stokes

Clare Bowen

Louise Bowe

Jackie Shallcross

Gemma Woodfall

Moor Trees

Registered charity no: 1081142

Adam Owen

Darryl Beck

Norfolk County Council

Emma Cross Cornwall Council

Ben Norwood

On behalf of SLYGAS:

Sophie Stafford (Editor)

Dylan Channon (Art Editor)

Neil Aldridge (Photographer)

Illustrations by

Stuart Jackson Carter

Photographs by Neil Aldridge, Rose Summers and Georgia Taylor, unless otherwise stated

ISBN 978-0-904853-19-3

Copyright:

Text p2-131 © The Tree Council 2022

Text p132-193 © Moor Trees 2022

Text p194–273 © Norfolk County Council 2023

CONTENTS

04 TREE SPECIES BY PAGE

Why you should grow trees from seeds

06 TREES ARE WONDERFUL

Why you should grow trees from seeds

08 WHAT TREES SHOULD I GROW?

Things to consider when choosing a tree

12 HOW TO COLLECT SEEDS OR TAKE CUTTINGS

Where, when and how much seed to collect

16 HOW TO PROCESS SEEDS

Nuts, fleshy fruits, winged seeds, cones or pods – how do you extract the seeds?

22 HOW TO STRATIFY SEEDS FOR GERMINATION

Get the best results from natural and artificial stratification

28 HOW TO SOW SEEDS AND PLANT OUT

From germination to growing, it’s time to get your seeds in the ground

32 HOW TO IDENTIFY TREES AND THEIR SEEDS Our grower’s guide to identification by species

138 HOW TO GET GROWING

Give your trees the best start in life

146 HOW TO GROW YOUR TREES ON

How to nurture strong young trees

152 HOW TO PROTECT YOUR PLANTS

Protection from the weather, wildlife and diseases

156 HOW TO MOVE YOUR TREES

Lifting, bundling and transporting

164 ENHANCING AND RESTORING LANDSCAPES

How to design a woodland and make sure your trees make a difference beyond the nursery

180 A BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO PLANTING

Ways to plant your woodland or hedgerow

188 HOW TO NURTURE YOUR TREES

Ensuring your trees thrive during the early years

194 CASE STUDIES

A range of case studies illustrating how different Community Tree Nurseries are growing trees

234 BIOSECURITY CASE STUDY

Examples from Salhouse to help improve your nursery’s biosecurity

122 HOW TO AVOID PESTS AND DISEASES

The biosecurity and growing practices that will help

PESTS AND DISEASES

Our A–Z guide to diseases and their symptoms 126 HOW TO AVOID DAMPING OFF

Keep your seedlings safe from sudden death

128 HOW TO START A COMMUNITY TREE NURSERY

Expert advice on running your own nursery

238 INFRASTRUCTURE

Fencing, irrigation and other essentials

246 HOW TO MANAGE VOLUNTEERS

Best practice for working with volunteers

252 PLANNING AND TREE DISTRIBUTION

Creating a blueprint for your organisation, including marketing and legislation

260 HOW TO RAISE FUNDS

Covering costs and applying for grants

264 ORGANISATION STRUCTURE

Which is the best legal structure for your nursery?

266 GLOSSARY

268 USEFUL RESOURCES

TREES BY PAGE

Acacia, false Robinia pseudoacacia P 111

Alder, common Alnus glutinosa C 98

Alder, grey Alnus incana C 99

Alder, Italian Alnus cordata C 99

Ash Fraxinus excelsior WS 87

Ash, manna Fraxinus ornus WS 88

Aspen Populus tremula CUT 119

Beech Fagus sylvatica N 44

Birch, downy

Betula pubescens C 101

Birch, silver Betula pendula C 100

Blackthorn Prunus spinosa FF 70

Box

Buckeye, sweet

Buckthorn, alder

Buckthorn, purging

Buxus sempervirens FF 59

Aesculus flava N 46

Frangula alnus FF 73

Rhamnus cathartica FF 72

Buckthorn, sea Hippophae rhamnoides FF 74

Butcher’s broom

Ruscus aculeatus FF 60

Cedar of Lebanon Cedrus lebani C 104

Cherry, bird Prunus padus FF 69

Cherry, wild

Chestnut, horse

Chestnut, Indian horse

Prunus avium FF 68

Aesculus hippocastanum N 45

Aesculus indica N 46

Chestnut, sweet Castanea sativa N 47

Crab apple Malus sylvestris FF 79

Daphne

Daphne mezereum FF 77

Dogwood Cornus sanguinea FF 57

Elder Sambucus nigra FF 78

Elm, wych Ulmus glabra WS 95

Guelder rose Viburnum opulus FF 55

Handkerchief tree

Davidia involucrata N 49

Hawthorn Crataegus monogyna FF 53

Hawthorn, Midland Crataegus laevigata FF 54

Hazel Corylus avellana N 42

Hazel, Turkish Corylus colurna N 43

Holly Ilex aquifolium FF 51

Honey locust Gleditsia triacanthos P 110

Hornbeam Carpinus betulus WS 91

Indian bean tree Catalpa bignonioides P 109

Judas tree Cercis siliquastrum P 108

TREES ARE WONDERFUL

Trees give us oxygen, store carbon, stabilise the soil and support wildlife, so let’s get growing!

Richard Griffin/Shutterstock

The trees in our woodlands, hedgerows, gardens, streets and parks create a rich, diverse landscape for us all, and are often crucial to our sense of place. They provide homes for wildlife, improve the quality of the air we breathe and help us tackle climate change. They contribute to our wellbeing, help us to celebrate events or mark moments in time, and soften and beautify the places where we live, work and play.

Show them some love

The great thing about growing trees from seed is that anyone can do it – and it’s incredibly satisfying. Seeing a tiny seed we’ve pressed into the soil sprout and grow into a beautiful tree is the ultimate in feel-good. It’s also a great way to give back to your environment. Not every seed you plant will become a magnificent tree or a landmark in a wildlife hedgerow, but, with care, many of them can. Most trees will outlive us, so we plant for future generations, just as our ancestors did for us.

Over to you

Whether you’re starting off with a few pots on your patio or balcony, growing a whole new woodland or setting up a Community Tree Nursery enterprise, we’ve covered everything you need to know in this guide to help you grow healthy young trees. You’ll find clear expert advice –including

WHY GROW TREES FROM SEED?

n To grow trees that will thrive locally,

n To increase numbers of rare native species,

n To produce lots of trees cheaply,

n To grow a specific tree that may be difficult to buy.

step-by-step guides, illustrations and growing calendars – on what species to grow and how to collect, handle, stratify and germinate the seeds. You can also find some helpful demonstration videos online at www.treegrowersguide.org.uk

Once you’ve germinated and grown your first tree from seed, you may become hooked and find that every time you go for a walk, you are looking out for seeds and fruits to harvest. By raising a wide range of local trees from seeds – including unusual species that many commercial nurseries don’t usually grow – you can help to fill the gaps in supply and promote diversity. And all you need as you wander around is a paper bag and a pencil.

Remember, many trees are easy to grow from seed, just give it a go and see what happens.

Happy growing!

WHAT TREES SHOULD I GROW?

Different trees have different purposes and needs. Choose what to plant based on the space you have and what you want from your trees.

If you’re going to grow your own trees, you want to choose the right ones. The trees may be for your own planting project or to pass on to others in your community. Either way, growing suitable species is important as you don’t want to spend time and effort growing trees that won’t find a home. If you’re planning to pass on your newly grown trees, make sure you have identified somebody who is happy to take the type of trees you’re growing before you start.

Tree size and space

Growing trees is a long-term commitment and you need to select species that are suitable for the space where they will be planted. It’s important to understand the size a tree will be when fully grown, and how quickly it will reach its maximum size. It’s not unusual to see small front gardens overwhelmed by massive trees that were probably planted by people who didn’t realise how big the young trees would get.

Horse chestnuts, for example, are easy to grow and when they are just a few years old, they make

Be sure you know how much space your young trees will need to grow before you start digging

beautiful small trees with characteristic handshaped leaves that are attractive to children and adults alike. However, within a few years, these fast-growing trees can become too big for a small garden, their dense canopies casting heavy shade that blocks out the light.

The Tree Council

Other considerations

As well as size and speed of growth, there are other things to consider when deciding what trees to grow. If space is limited and you only have room for a small tree, look for a species that will provide interest throughout the year. Try to pick a tree that has attractive flowers, good autumn leaf colour or berries, and interesting bark that can be appreciated during the winter.

In small spaces, also think about the overall tree shape. Look for a species that is columnar in shape or narrows towards the top (fastigiate) with an upright or dense branching structure.

If space is limited and you only have room for a small tree, look for a species that will provide interest throughout the year.

If you have a larger garden or space to grow trees, then consider the ultimate size of the trees and space them out accordingly. Look at the height and spread they are likely to achieve in 20 years and give them room or you may need to remove some of the trees later on.

Alternatively, if you’re planting groups of trees, woodlands or shelterbelts (trees planted to block the wind) for example, you can deliberately plant at higher densities and then thin the trees out as they become crowded, leaving only the best and strongest specimens standing.

If you want to encourage wildlife, or are

planting in rural locations, select native species. Ornamental trees with fleshy fruits are good for birds. Do some research online, contact your local Wildlife Trust or local authority Tree Officer as they may be able to give you advice on species choice and any rare species particular to your area.

If you’re still not sure what to grow, look at which trees grow well in your neighbourhood, particularly if you live in exposed or coastal areas where trees will need to be adapted to very specific climatic conditions.

Some trees can grow well in large pots or containers, but all thrive and reach their best potential when grown out in a suitable location.

When not to plant

The UK has a wonderful variety of unique habitats, which support special wildlife. It’s important to plant trees where they will enhance a habitat, not damage it or make it unsuitable for sensitive species that may be dependent on certain conditions. For example, shading caused by trees planted on heathland could adversely affect rare heath wildlife, including plants, insects, birds and reptiles, which is already in decline.

Wetlands such as marshy grassland, bogs and fens support wildlife that can’t survive elsewhere and saturated soils store a huge amount of carbon. Planting trees in wetlands dries them out, and can cause a decline in biodiversity and the release of sequestered carbon.

Decisions about planting should only be made when it’s possible to assess the habitat you aim to plant into, though some important habitats are not always obvious to an untrained eye. Some grasslands that look unimpressive in winter, for example, may be vital for wildlife, bursting with wildflowers, bees and birds in spring and summer. Even bare earth is important for certain insect species, such as solitary bees, butterflies and reptiles. Assessing the habitat is especially important if you’re looking to establish new woodlands, so always seek good ecological advice before embarking on large-scale plantings.

Honeybee on blossom

Some trees create a dense hedge and excellent wind break

Snake’s head fritillary flowers indicate wet meadows, which are not suitable for tree planting

Young trees protected by re-usable and recyclable guards

HOW TO COLLECT SEEDS OR TAKE CUTTINGS

Our handy guide to getting out into your local area and collecting the seeds you’ll grow into new trees

Tree seeds come in a huge range of sizes, shapes and colours designed to maximise the tree’s chances of survival. They are living things that, if treated with care throughout the collection, processing, storage and dormancy periods, will germinate and grow into strong, healthy trees.

Where to collect seed

All trees have different growth rates and germination characteristics, and need individual treatments and processes to enable a consistent successful germination rate.

When collecting native tree seeds, look for areas of ancient woodland and old hedgerows that harbour mature specimens. You can also harvest seeds from orchards, parks and arboretums, in fact anywhere that trees grow and have plentiful seeds. Don’t forget to ask for the landowner’s permission before collecting any seeds. Visit the site a few weeks before you plan to collect the seeds, in order to check on their quality and quantity. You’ll find the most tree seeds where there is plenty of light, and this is also where flowers are most likely to be in bloom. This includes around open areas, woodland edges, glades, woodland clearings and old hedges.

When collecting seeds, avoid trees that look diseased. Indicators that a tree may not be healthy include stained bark, the appearance of ‘bleeding’, large areas of dead branches or bark falling away. Leaves may also be withered or an unusual colour. Compare the tree to one of the same species nearby to see if one looks healthier. If in doubt, find another tree to collect seeds from.

How much seed to collect

Collect seeds from as many trees of the same species as possible (between 20 and 50+ trees is ideal) to achieve maximum genetic diversity.

Seeds must be fertile to germinate, so the best place to harvest them is places where there are groups of trees, and therefore cross pollination and fertilisation are likely.

Very few trees produce good crops of seeds every year. Keep an eye on the quality and quantity of seeds developing on the parent trees. Check the seeds are ripe before you collect them.

When to collect seed

When ripe, seeds should be picked directly from the tree or gathered from the ground. You can use any suitable container to take your seeds home, but don’t store them in plastic bags as the seeds become too moist, and this reduces their chances

Collecting spindle seed capsules

Collecting holly berries

of germination. Put the seeds from different species of trees in separate bags, labelled clearly. The ideal situation is to collect seeds from trees that are growing well in your area, and are therefore obviously suited to local conditions. Think carefully before collecting seeds from trees that are hundreds of miles away from where you will be planting. Trees adapt to the local conditions, so seeds collected in Sussex may not produce healthy trees in Perthshire, for example.

Timing is everything

Don’t collect the first seeds to fall from a tree, as later seeds are more likely to be of better quality. Watch carefully and be ready to act promptly when the seeds ripen – delaying too long may mean squirrels, jays and other wildlife beat you to the harvest! That said, always leave some seeds behind, as they are an important winter food source for wildlife.

Climbing trees can be dangerous, so only collect seeds you can reach from the ground. Use gloves if you are collecting seeds from spiny trees or bushes. If you want to collect seeds from the lower branches of trees, pick them by hand or use a hooked stick to carefully pull branches down to within reach.

It’s a good idea to create a seed collection calendar, and site cards detailing the seeds’ location and landowner’s contact details for future years.

Taking cuttings

Trees such as willows and poplars grow better from cuttings than from seeds. When seeds are difficult to obtain, cuttings can also be taken from alders, elders, hazels, hollies and mulberries. Generally, cuttings should be taken in late autumn or early winter. These cuttings should be set upright in moist, well-drained soils. Poplars and willows root so readily that anyone can plant them with a good chance of success.

Taking a willow cutting

HOW TO TAKE CUTTINGS

1. Generally cuttings should be taken in late autumn or early winter.

2. Find a new branch that is about as thick as a pencil and has lots of buds on it.

3. Take your cutting from the branch just above a fork, using a pair of secateurs.

4. Cut the branch into 20cm lengths, each containing at least two buds.

5. Make the lower cut square-on to the branch, just below a bud. The top cut should be made at an angle about 1cm above the top bud.

6. Store the cuttings by burying them in moist sand or peat-free compost, in a cool, dark place such as a garage or shed.

7. Dig a hole with a trowel or spade and plant the cutting, so that only 5cm of it remains above the ground. The best time to do this is between mid-January and March.

8. By late spring, the cutting should have produced at least two or more sprouts. Cut off all but the strongest sprout on each plant. In the autumn, it can be transplanted to its final destination.

Regulations for tree or seed sellers

If you plan to sell seeds you’ve gathered or trees you’ve grown, you need to know about the Forest Reproductive Material (Great Britain) Regulations. These regulations are a control system for seeds, cuttings and planting stock that is used for forestry purposes in Great Britain. They help to ensure biosecurity (security from pests and diseases) and genetic diversity and quality of tree stocks across the UK. The regulations ensure that tree-planting stock is traceable throughout the collection and production process to a registered source of ‘basic material’. For example, seeds must be traceable back to the tree from which they were collected so that buyers can have information about the trees

or seeds they buy and their genetic quality.

If you intend to sell your seeds or trees, you must register as a Forest Reproductive Material (FRM) supplier before you collect tree seeds, cuttings and grow trees.

If you are collecting seeds for sale from the 50 controlled species, which include alder, beech, birch, hornbeam, oak, poplar species including aspen, small and large-leaved lime and wild cherry, you’ll need to notify the Forestry Commission of your intention to collect seeds at least 14 days before the collection date.

You can find out more here: www.gov.uk/guidance/marketing-forestreproductive-material-for-forestry-purposes

Guelder rose

Birch

Hazelnuts Holly Spindle

Field maple

HOW TO PROCESS SEEDS

NUTS

n Many nuts have a hard or spiky green outer shell, inside which there may, or may not, be a seed. Examples include walnut, horse chestnut and sweet chestnut. If a hard or spiky outer casing exists, carefully remove it without damaging the nut inside.

n Other nuts, such as oak, beech and hazel, have a hard casing that does not need to be removed.

n You can identify viable seeds using the ‘float test’. This involves putting the seeds in a bucket or bowl of water. Those that float are unlikely to have viable seed inside and should be discarded.

n Nuts will produce a radicle, which is the first root. This process is called ‘chitting’. Chitting can be encouraged by keeping the seeds in a bucket of leaf mould and gently turning them so they do not become too damp and start to rot. Once you see

the radicle start to sprout, gently remove the seed and plant it.

n These seeds can be direct sown into a suitable mix of soil and compost– see page 21 for an example mixture.

n Remember, squirrels, jays, voles and other small mammals love nuts and will remove them from the earth and from pots. Always protect the seeds you’ve planted by covering your pots or troughs with wire mesh to keep unwanted guests out.

Sprouting acorn

When handled with care, tree seeds will fulfil their potential to germinate, grow and develop into healthy plants

Most tree seeds are contained in some kind of fruit – good examples are apple pips and cherry stones –from which they need to be extracted and then cleaned. Different tree fruits require different processes to remove the seeds. The method you should use depends on the type of fruit or seeds you have collected – nuts, fleshy fruits, winged seeds, cones or pods.

Once you have separated your seeds into types, you need to know whether they should be either stratified for the winter or sown immediately into pots or seedbeds. All the information you need can be found in the guide from page 32

Don’t be disappointed if not all your seeds germinate, but by manually processing the seeds you can optimise germination and reduce the time it takes for them to grow.

Hazelnuts

FLESHY FRUITS

n Trees that produce fleshy fruits are the most time-consuming to process, as much of the fleshy material needs to be removed. In nature, animals, microorganisms and weathering will break down the surrounding flesh from the seed.

n Fleshy fruits or berries can have stones, like blackthorn, hawthorn and wild cherry, pips like crab apple and guelder rose, or tiny seeds like rowan.

n The stones, pips or seeds need to be extracted from the fruit, as this can inhibit germination or increase the likelihood of diseases affecting the storage and viability of the seed.

n To remove the flesh, place the fruits in a bowl of water and gently squash with a potato masher or similar equipment to break the flesh. Then a rotating motion can be used until the fruit is separated from the seed. Viable seeds will sink to the bottom and the residue of the fleshy fruit can be discarded.

n For rowan and mulberry, put the berries in a sieve and gently squeeze them with your fingers under running water to release the seeds.

apples should be cut open with a knife to remove the seeds. Rinse the seeds and then dry

n Crab apples are easily scored around with a sharp knife. The apple can then be broken in half and the pips removed. Do not cut through the pips!

n For spindle seeds, you need to remove the pink outer shell. Inside there can be multiple seeds. These are covered in a bright orange skin, which needs to be removed and can be gently peeled off.

n For many fleshy fruits, using a rough surface such as a paving slab or purpose-made scarifying board (a wire mesh attached to a wooden block) can speed up the seed-cleaning process significantly.

n The seeds should be rinsed to remove any remaining flesh and reduce the likelihood of pests and diseases affecting them during storage. The seeds can then be surface dried and stored dry or stored in slightly moist coir (coconut husk compost), or in an equal mixture of compost and sand. The best methods for different tree species are covered on page 32 onwards.

n The seeds of all fleshy fruits need to be stratified over the winter. For our easy-to-follow guide to stratification, see page 22

WINGED SEEDS

n Winged seeds are usually collected from the tree when they are still slightly green. These include the seeds of field maple, sycamore, ash, lime, hornbeam and wych elm.

n They need to be dry before they are stored, especially if they are collected when damp from morning dew or rain.

n To dry them, the seeds should be laid out and turned every two days until they are dry.

n Store them in paper bags and check them every week until you are ready to stratify them. How long you wait to stratify will vary from year to year, depending on the temperature and the species of tree. For guidance on this, see the relevant tree Seed Guide from page 32 onwards.

n Winged seeds can be planted with the wings left on.

n It can speed up germination if the seed is removed from the outer casing, especially for hornbeams.

n Wych elm is best collected in summer and should be sown immediately after collection.

Guelder rose berries need to be mashed then the flesh and seeds can be separated through the sieve

Crab

Wych elm fruits

Field maple seeds need to be stratified, usually for one winter. Select and sow germinating seeds in spring

CONES

n Trees that have cones include Scots pine, redwood, alder and birch.

n Put ripe cones in a paper bag to dry out naturally for a few days – but avoid direct heat from, for example, direct sunlight, a radiator or a fire.

n When the cones are dry, they will open up and release their seeds, which are then ready to be sown.

n Alder seeds are contained in cones, which should be harvested once they turn from green to black. The seeds can be shaken from the cones and stored dry in paper bags until you are ready to sow them.

Alder produces catkins and cones

n Though technically not a cone, the catkins of birch are easy to process. Collect them during dry weather when they are brown and ripe. They can simply be rubbed gently to get them to separate, and the seeds stored in paper bags.

n Alder and birch seeds can be stored dry. Four weeks before sowing, soak them in cold water for 24 to 48 hours and leave them to surface dry. Then place them in a plastic bag, mixed with some moist horticulture sand, and place them in a fridge.

PODS

n Trees that have seed pods include laburnum, Indian bean tree and false acacia.

n Collect the seed pods when they are ripe, and place them in a paper bag, out of direct sunlight, to dry out naturally for a few days.

n When the pods are dry, simply break them open to remove the seeds.

Scots pine produces male cones with yellow pollen

Indian bean tree seed pods are slim, almost perfectly cylindrical and can grow up to 41cm long

Stratification is necessary to prepare pine seeds for germination

HOW TO STRATIFY SEEDS FOR GERMINATION

Some seeds require treatment that simulates natural conditions to germinate properly. You can do this naturally or artificially...

Very few tree seeds will germinate (shoot or sprout) without exposure to the cold over the course of at least one winter. Other species take even longer, needing the following summer plus another winter before they start to show signs of life.

This is because of a natural defence mechanism built into the seeds called dormancy, which ensures they don’t grow during the winter, when young seedlings might be killed by the cold.

Tree growers have developed a technique called ‘stratification’ that mimics this natural process: dormancy is broken by rising temperatures after a period of cold in order to allow germination

(when seeds develop their first roots and shoots) to begin. There are two types of stratification to consider – natural and artificial.

NATURAL STRATIFICATION (OUTSIDE)

1. Choose your container

Look for a container with a minimum depth of 30cm and a surface area of about 30x60cm. We recommend the metal troughs used to feed livestock, but a dustbin, bucket or large pot will work equally well for small-scale growing. The depth is key as it supports an even temperature distribution that helps stop the seeds

from remaining frozen during periods of very cold temperatures. Make sure there are drainage holes, and add a layer of coarse gravel or similar to the bottom of the container to aid drainage.

2. Create your stratification medium

Some seeds need to be in contact with a moistureretaining medium before they will germinate. There are a variety of suitable stratification mediums you can try.

One recipe we use is to combine equal measures of peat-free potting compost (fresh or recycled) with a coarse-particle material, such as barkchips, perlite, sand or grit. You can also re-use waste material by partially filling deep containers with a reasonably large volume of homemade compost, which saves money and introduces beneficial microorganisms. However, homemade compost will contain the seeds of weeds, so add a thick (5cm) layer of purpose-made seed compost or one-part new potting compost and one-part sand on top, to act as a natural weed-seed suppressant.

3. Stratify your seeds

Seeds can be stratified in layers, either singly near the surface or in multiple layers. Seeds such as field maple are best placed in a single layer. Depending on how much time you have, you can stratify seeds one by one or scatter them by hand (known as ‘broadcast sowing’). Aim to space the seeds apart by at least twice their size, so they have enough space to grow.

Compost improves soil quality enabling it to better retain air, nutrients and moisture. This leads to healthier roots, which in turn enable healthier growth

Cover the seeds with a 1.5cm-deep layer of seed compost or a 1:1 mix of compost and sand. Alternatively, if you have many large seeds, such as hazelnuts or acorns, it may be beneficial to stratify them to make the best use of your nursery space. Mix the seeds into a stratification medium and place this in a bucket or large pot. The viability of seeds is hard to know, but potentially it could be quite low, so make sure you stratify lots of seeds to avoid disappointment.

Water the container with a watering can fitted with a rose or a hose on the fine shower setting. It is essential to keep the mixture moist, but not saturated. Take a pinch between your thumb and forefinger – if you can squeeze out a drop of water, it’s moist enough. Finally, cover the container with a fine wire-mesh lid to keep out birds and rodents. The container should be positioned so it is kept cool and exposed to the elements.

4. Check for germination in spring

In spring, tip out the stratification mixture and remove any seeds that are ‘chitting’ (showing small shoots or roots). These seeds are germinating and are ready for sowing. Any seeds that haven’t germinated should be put back into the mixture. Keep checking them every week over the spring, so that you can remove and sow any that start to germinate.

Once the seeds start germinating, it’s important to sow them quickly, as the new shoots are delicate and fragile. If they get too large, they can easily be damaged during planting.

If any seeds haven’t germinated by the end of the spring, don’t be disheartened. It can take two winters for natural stratification to break the dormancy of some seeds, such as hazel, wild cherry, hawthorn and small leaved-lime, but check that the seeds haven’t rotted before continuing to stratify them.

Once the seeds start germinating, it’s important to sow them quickly, as the new shoots are fragile. If they get too large, they can be damaged during planting.

Place your seeds into a suitable container and leave them outside for the winter

Put your seeds in a plastic bag or sealable container with some coir, or compost mixed with sand

ARTIFICIAL STRATIFICATION (IN A FRIDGE)

Artificial stratification creates a controlled temperature and moisture environment for seeds, and can speed up germination. Natural winter temperatures vary and one of the risks associated with the climate crisis is the potential for reduced seed germination due to warmer winters. One way to artificially stratify tree seeds is to place them in a domestic fridge, to ensure they receive a consistent cold period to help break dormancy. Harvested seeds should be processed to remove any flesh to prepare them for fridge stratification.

1. Choose your container

Select a suitable container to store your seeds in, such as a small plastic storage container with a lid or a press-seal bag. A press-seal bag has the advantage of fitting into a much smaller space, which is useful if you are planning on fridgestratifying a large number of seeds.

Bags also allow easier control of ventilation and moisture content, as they can be adjusted.

Artificial stratification creates a controlled environment for seeds, and can speed up germination.

2. Prepare your stratification medium

Fill your bag or container with a medium that holds moisture, normally a mix of compost and sand – see suggested recipe on page 23. Coir (coconut husk compost) is also good. It’s easy to control the moisture level and it’s an almost sterile medium, reducing the risk of pests and diseases infecting the seeds. Start by ensuring your media is just moist. If using coir, squeeze a handful until it stops dripping.

3. Mix your seeds with your medium

Mix your chosen seeds and medium together, ensuring that each seed is in contact with the

medium, and some seeds are visible against the side of the bag or container. This can aid with checking seed health.

Ensure each bag is clearly labelled with the tree species, date and approximate seed number (and/or weight). It’s a good idea to record when the seeds have gone into the fridge and when you plan to take them out. Setting electronic reminders may be useful. The seed containers can now be put in the fridge for several months depending on the species.

4. Check your seeds

Seeds should be checked regularly for health and moisture – at least weekly at first, then this can drop to fortnightly until they start to show signs of germination. At this point, you need to increase the regularity of checking to every few days. Open your containers and look for signs of mould. Use your fingers to judge if any water needs to be added to maintain moisture levels. If there is any mould visible, see if it can be rubbed off. Give the seed a gentle squeeze and if it is still firm, it’s likely that the mould is just growing on any remaining fruit pulp and is not likely to be a cause for concern. If the seed feels soft, it should be discarded, and the remaining seeds checked thoroughly.

Some species may germinate in the fridge, and these seedlings need to be removed and potted carefully. Having grown in a cold environment, they will be very soft and may damage easily. Be careful not to damage any other seeds, which may just be starting to germinate.

5. Deal with ungerminated seeds

Ungerminated seeds can be put in a sheltered area. Transferring them from their small container to a deep and wide one will allow for more even temperature and moisture distribution, which will prevent the seeds from being damaged by extreme weather.

After one to two years, you may choose to discard them or spread them on cultivated ground, where any remaining viable dormant seeds could germinate in the future.

6. Decide how long to keep your seeds in the fridge

The calendar on each tree species page offers a timeline for collecting, stratifying and sowing native tree species. For each tree, the exact timing of the different stages may vary from year to year, and in different parts of the country. Trial and error, and excellent record keeping, will help you build up local knowledge to maximise successful germination.

Once the seeds start germinating, it’s important to plant them straightaway

HOW TO SOW SEEDS AND PLANT OUT

Now your seeds are germinating, it’s time to give your young trees the best start in life. Here’s our advice for sowing success

Now your seeds have experienced the required cold period for the species, whether by natural or artificial stratification, any that are germinating can be removed from the stratification medium and sown. Alternatively, you can remove and sow all the seeds when 10% of them have chitted, in the hope that this is indicative that the remaining seeds are now close to germination.

Small seeds such as those of birch and alder should be scattered on the surface of the compost or soil, together with the medium, and covered with a thin layer of your chosen seed-potting compost. Larger seeds are usually sown singly and covered with soil or compost to about one-and-a-half times their average length.

WHERE TO SOW

Sow your seeds in potting compost in a suitable container such as a pot or root trainer, or outdoors in a seedbed.

Pots

An ideal method for growing a single tree is in a single pot or clean, recycled container, such as a milk or juice carton with the top cut off. Pierce small holes in the bottom to allow water to escape. Fill it with peat-free potting compost and sow either a single germinating seed, or a pinch of small seeds.

As the tree grows, water regularly to ensure the compost doesn’t dry out. Feed during periods of active growth with liquid plant food.

After a few months, the young tree may outgrow its pot, so the tree should be transferred to a larger container or planted out in the ground.

Root trainers

Root trainers are small, moulded plastic cells. They come in hinged packs with four or five cells in each row, allowing you to open them up to

examine how your young trees are developing. Five or six rows of these root trainer packs can be placed together in a tray, allowing 20 or more trees to be grown in a small space. Root trainers can be obtained from most garden centres and shops or from specialised stockists.

As with containers or pots, fill root trainers with peat-free potting compost and in each one, sow either a single germinating seed or a pinch of small seeds. As the trees grow, water them regularly. Add plant feed during active growth.

When the young trees have grown well-developed roots, they are ready to be planted out.

Seedbeds

A seedbed is a mini tree nursery. To create one, first prepare the soil to ensure it is free draining and if necessary add some coarse grit to the soil to improve drainage. Either sow your seeds over the surface of the seedbed before covering them with a layer of soil, or sow in a drill – a shallow groove scraped out to the required depth – and cover with soil. Use a protective fence to keep rabbits and rodents away from your seeds and

Consider recycling old materials, such as milk and juice cartons, to sow your seeds Jon Stokes

If needed, protect young trees with biodegradable guards or re-use your existing plastic guards

As the young trees grow, water them regularly. Trees growing in seedbeds can be left for a year or more before being planted out.

PROTECT YOUR SEEDLINGS

Wherever you sow your seeds, you’ll need to ensure they don’t get waterlogged. If you’re using containers, ensure there are holes in the bottom to allow water to escape. If you’re using outdoor seedbeds with heavy soils, dig in sand and grit to improve drainage and prevent waterlogging. Germinating seeds need shelter from hot sun, cold winds, frost, birds, mice and other animals. A shady spot against a wall is ideal. Make sure you water your containers regularly, especially in summer. Occasionally, give the seedlings some liquid plant feed and weed containers and seedbeds – try to avoid pulling up any young trees by mistake!

PLANTING OUT

Young trees can be grown in root trainers for up to three years to establish a set of good deep roots

When your seedlings have grown into small trees (at least 20cm tall), they can be moved to their final growing locations. This should be carried out during the winter planting season, normally the middle of November to the end of March.

Where to plant

There are many potential places where trees can be planted, including gardens, communal and public open spaces, road verges, parks, hedgerows, woodlands and churchyards. However, it’s vital that you secure the landowner’s permission before you start planting, and make sure there’ll be enough space for your tree when it reaches maturity. Choose well-drained sites

where the ground is not too hard. Test this by seeing whether you can push a trowel or spade into the ground simply by leaning on it.

Protection

If voles, rabbits, hares, squirrels, deer, livestock, lawnmowers or strimmers are a threat in the area, it will be wise to protect your newly planted tree from bark damage. There are a range of options, depending on the type of site you are planting and whether you’re planting individual trees or a hedgerow. They include tree guards (protective tubes that fit round tree stems) in various shapes and sizes, wire netting and wooden fencing. Protecting your young trees increases the environmental impact and financial costs of your planting. Guards have to be manufactured and transported, and they’re often left in-situ long after the saplings have matured. Plastic guards will ultimately break down into plastic litter and microplastics, polluting the environment. If possible, try to re-use old plastic guards or consider biodegradable alternatives, such as those made from cardboard or wool. Always remove guards from trees and hedgerows when they are no longer needed, and re-use or recycle them.

Using root trainers

If you are planting a young tree from a root trainer, use a spade to make a slot in the ground. Widen the slot by wiggling the spade backwards and forwards and then put the tree and its soil in the centre of the slot. Carefully push the sides of the slot back together using your foot to close the slot, and firm the soil around the tree.

Bare-root trees

It’s best to transplant a bare-root tree from a seedbed when it is at least 20cm tall. Dig it up with a spade or fork, ease the tree from the ground and shake to remove loose soil. Make sure the new hole

Make sure the root collar is the same height as the ground

you dig for your tree is big enough to enable you to spread out the roots and, equally important, plant the tree so that the root collar – the point from which the roots grow – is at the soil surface. Fill the hole with soil, remove any air pockets and firm the tree down.

If you don’t plan to plant the tree immediately, wrap the roots in plastic to protect them and keep them moist. Don’t dig up more trees than you need at a time. Don’t leave any plants, particularly those in bags, exposed to direct sunlight or wind.

Trees from pots and containers

If you’re planting a young tree from a pot or container, ensure the hole is deep enough to take all the soil and roots. If required, use a little extra peat-free compost or fine soil to pack around the tree. Moisten the compost before removing the tree from its pot or container. When planted, the surface of the soil from the pot should be level with the soil around it.

The Tree Council Jon Stokes

Jon

HOW TO IDENTIFY TREES AND THEIR SEEDS

All trees and seeds have distinctive features that help with identification –you just need to know what to look out for. Our simple ID guide is here to help.

The species included in this guide are either native to, or commonly found in, the British Isles. We have divided their fruits and seeds into the main groups described in more detail on pages 16–21, with the addition of some trees that are best propagated by cuttings.

n Nuts Trees and shrubs that produce genuine nuts, as well as those that produce nut-like seeds (e.g. oaks and beech).

n Fleshy fruits Trees that produce berries and fruits (e.g. holly and yew).

n Winged seeds Trees that produce seeds with ‘wings’ (e.g. field maple and sycamore).

n Cones Trees with seeds contained in a cone (e.g. pines) or conelike structures (e.g. alders and birches).

n Pods Trees that produce pods, which often resemble the pods of peas (e.g. laburnum).

n Cuttings Trees, such as willows and poplars, do produce seeds but are most easily propagated by taking cuttings from the parent tree.

For each species of tree, this guide provides:

n Key facts about the tree.

n A silhouette showing the shape of a mature specimen.

n Key identification features for the leaves and seeds, and some flowers.

n Other species with which the tree may be easily confused.

n ‘Right tree, right place’ – our helpful, at-a-glance guide to help you decide which trees are best suited to your space.

n Instructions about how to collect tree seeds and grow them.

n A calendar of when to collect, store, stratify, sow, take cuttings, grow and plant out each species.

Top tip

The calendars are subject to growing conditions and climate. Planting timings are subject to the young tree being the optimum size, as indicated in the calendar. For example, planting when height is more than 20cm and root collar is more than 5mm.

Gathering spindle seeds

THE GUIDE EXPLAINED

RIGHT TREE, RIGHT PLACE

Native

These tree species colonised the UK after the last ice age, before the land separated from Europe.

Non-native

These tree species are believed to have been brought to the UK from other parts of the world.

Deciduous

These tree species shed their leaves with the seasons.

Evergreen

These tree species do not shed their leaves seasonally.

Mature small trees

Mature small trees grow up to 10m tall.

Mature medium trees

Mature medium trees grow 10–20m tall.

Mature large trees

Mature large trees grow more than 20m tall.

Dioecious

These species have separate male and female trees. Pollen from the male tree is needed for the female tree to produce viable seed.

For a full explanation of terms, please see the Glossary.

GROWING CALENDARS

Good park tree

These tree species are often large and planted in parks and large gardens for their attractive foliage or stem colour, stature and interest.

Good woodland tree

These tree species grow well in a crowded, wooded environment.

Good autumn colour

These tree species provide attractive colours in their leaves and/or stems in autumn and winter.

Good for wildlife

Particularly beneficial for a range of native wildlife, providing food and habitat.

Good street tree

Often found as street trees in urban settings, due to their ability to tolerate a variety of conditions.

Good for hedges

Form excellent hedge habitat and respond well to intermittent pruning if needed.

Good for wet habitats

Grow best in wet soils.

Toxic berries

Fruit can be toxic to humans and/or animals.

Top tip Many species have multiple benefits, we’ve selected just a few.

Top tip The calendars are a guide only. Please consider the specific requirements of each tree species.

A good time of year to gather seeds.

Store seeds in a suitable container and in a cool place before stratification. STORE

Treat seeds to break dormancy. This may take several years in some cases.

Sow seeds ready to grow.

A good time of year to take cuttings.

Grow seedlings until they are ready to plant. This may take several years in some cases.

Lift and plant trees in the winter, between November and March.

to brown

ENGLISH OAK

The English oak grows best on deep, fertile clays and loams, but tolerates a wide range of soils. Some trees, such as Lincolnshire’s Bowthorpe Oak, are thought to be more than 1,000 years old. English oaks can support more than 2,000 species, more than any other British tree. They also provide an important food source and roosting sites for birds and mammals.

The purple hairstreak butterfly breeds solely on oaks, and small groups can often be seen fluttering over the treetops in summer. Easily confused with: Sessile oak, Turkey oak and other oak species

Long, yellow hanging catkins distribute pollen into the air

SESSILE OAK

Quercus petraea

Seed Guide

Collect the acorns from the tree, or very soon after they drop – usually from late September. The first to fall should be avoided, as they are often diseased or deformed and unlikely to grow. Separate acorns from their cups and float them in water; plant the ones that sink. To avoid your acorns drying out – which will kill them – sow straightaway in a seedbed to a depth of 2–3cm or singly, in pots, covered by a thin layer of compost. Protect from predators throughout the winter. Roots will grow during winter and the shoots will emerge in late April.

Leaves have distinct stalks

Acorns have no stalks, hence the name ‘sessile’, which means unstalked

Root collar>5mm

The sessile oak thrives in the west of Britain. It prefers areas of high rainfall and grows best in deep, well-drained clays and loams. Some trees may be more than 1,000 years old. Its branches are not closely spaced, which allows light to reach the forest floor. As a result, sessile oak woodland supports a rich ground flora, and a wide range of insects and birds, which feed in the spaces between the trees. Pied flycatchers and redstarts thrive here, jays and badgers love their acorns and caterpillars eat their leaves. Easily confused with: English oak, Turkey oak and other oak species

Seed Guide

Collect the acorns from the tree, or very soon after they drop – usually from late September. The first to fall should be avoided, as they are often diseased or deformed and unlikely to grow. Separate acorns from their cups and float them in water; plant the ones that sink. To avoid your acorns drying out – which will kill them – sow straightaway in a seedbed to a depth of 2–3cm or singly, in pots, covered by a thin layer of compost.

Protect from predators throughout the winter. Roots will grow during winter and the shoots will emerge in late April.

Quercus robur

Leaves are almost stalkless

Acorns have long stalks and turn from green

TURKEY OAK

The Turkey oak was introduced from southern Europe in the early 18th century. It grows on light soils as far north as Scotland and is often planted in parks and gardens. The tree seeds freely and grows fast, and has become widely naturalised. Turkey oak is not as valuable to native wildlife as English and sessile oaks. It also plays host to a species of Cynipid wasp (Andricus quercuscalicis) that destroys English and sessile oak acorns. The trees should, therefore, only be planted very selectively.

Easily confused with: English oak, sessile oak and other oak species

Seed Guide

Collect the acorns from the tree, or very soon after they drop – usually from late September. The first to fall should be avoided, as they are often diseased or deformed and unlikely to grow. Separate acorns from their cups and float them in water; plant the ones that sink. To avoid your acorns drying out – which will kill them – sow straightaway in a seedbed to a depth of 2–3cm or singly, in pots, covered by a thin layer of compost. Protect from predators throughout the winter. Roots will grow during winter and the shoots will emerge in late April.

LUCOMBE OAK

Quercus x hispanica

These large, evergreen oaks are a natural hybrid between cork oak and Turkey oak. The nature of the hybrids is variable and the trees can exhibit a variety of characteristics of both parents.

The tree takes its name from William Lucombe, who grew a number of seedlings in his nursery in Exeter around 1762. The hybrid between the species is frequent in the wild in south-west Europe and can be found growing in Britain, particularly in the south-west where it originated. One feature that aids identification is its pale grey bark, which forms corky ridges. Easily confused with: Other oak species

The acorn cups have coarse bristles

The evergreen leaves are alternate with triangular, pointed lobes

Seed Guide

Collect the acorns from the tree, or soon after they drop, usually from late September. The first to fall should be avoided, as they are often diseased or deformed and unlikely to grow. Separate acorns from their cups and float them in water; plant the ones that sink. To avoid them drying out – which will kill them – sow straightaway in a seedbed to a depth of 2–3cm or singly, in pots, covered by a layer of compost. Protect from predators over winter. Roots will grow during winter and shoots will emerge in late April. As it’s a hybrid, the seeds will not produce a tree identical to the parents.

Quercus cerris

The leaves feel rough to the touch

The acorn cups also have coarse bristles

The twigs have hairy buds

Acorn cups are saucer-shaped

Leaves have deeply cut, triangular lobes

Acorns are nested in

Some leaves have holly-like spines

HOLM OAK

Quercus

ilex

Red oak is a non-native species that can flourish on poor, dry soils and tolerates drought and urban conditions, as well as exposed locations with saltladen winds. Though liked by birds and insects, red oak doesn’t support as many species as native oak. Easily confused with: Other oak species

Holm oak was brought to Britain more than 400 years ago and grows well on a wide variety of soils. It can tolerate salty conditions and so can be found along coastlines, where its evergreen leaves are adapted to retaining moisture in hot weather. Easily confused with: Holly

CHESTNUTLEAVED OAK

Leaves resemble sweet chestnut

are bristly

Vigorous non-native oak, which can be very fast growing in the UK. As the name suggests, the leaves bear more of a resemblance in shape to sweet chestnut than to oak, and develop distinctive yellow and brown colours in autumn. Easily confused with: Sweet chestnut

Seed Guide for these oaks

Like most oaks, seed production is cyclical with heavy crops produced every two to five years. Acorns quickly lose viability if allowed to dry out, so it is best to sow them straight away in an outdoor seedbed. Germination will take between 120 days and a year. Seedlings produce a deep taproot and should be planted in their final location no later than after two growing seasons in the nursery.

For the calendar for these oaks, see English oak

deep cups

Quercus rubra

RED OAK

Quercus castaneifolia

Acorn cups

Soft and hairy leaves have saw-toothed edges with a drawn-out tip

Grows to be a mediumsized tree

Long, yellow, male catkins appear in the depths of winter

HAZEL

This deciduous tree is found in woods and hedges across Britain. It can reach a height of 15m and grows on a range of soils, including chalk, limestone, mildly acid and clay. Male catkins appear in January or February. Hazel is usually coppiced to produce thin, flexible poles that are used for fencing, hurdles, pea and bean sticks, and thatching spars. Coppiced hazel woodlands are rich in wildlife, as the regular cutting allows light to reach the woodland floor, benefitting flowers and butterflies. Over 106 invertebrate species have been found on hazel. The nuts attract squirrels and hazel dormice.

Easily confused with: Elm, lime, mulberry, Turkish hazel

Seed Guide

Collect the first nuts in autumn as they ripen from green to brown, but be careful the squirrels don’t beat you to it. Sow immediately in a pot or seedbed. Protect from predators and severe frost. You can also place the hazelnuts in buckets of coir (a light material that does not stick) and leave covered outside over winter. Then in spring, carefully pick out the nuts that are germinating and sow them in a pot or seedbed.

Long, yellow male catkins appear in early spring

Leaves similar to hazel, but slightly more heart-shaped

Long, bristly bracts around the fruit (bristly cups)

TURKISH HAZEL

Corylus colurna

Turkish hazel is a fast-growing, non-native tree with high ornamental value, a regular pyramidalshaped crown, and bright-green leaves that create a beautiful spectacle in autumn. In recent years, the tree has been a popular choice for urban areas, avenues, streets and parkland, where it is often preferred to lime because it does not sucker or suffer from aphid drop. Drought resistant and wind tolerant, it prefers hot summers and cold winters. It is an easily grown tree that does well in most soils. Easily confused with: Lime, hazel

Seed Guide

Collect the first nuts in autumn as they ripen from green to brown, but be careful the squirrels don’t beat you to it. Sow immediately in a pot or seedbed. Protect from predators and severe frost. You can also place the hazelnuts in buckets of coir (a light material that does not stick) and leave covered outside over winter. Then in spring, carefully pick out the nuts that are germinating and sow them in a pot or seedbed.

*Height>20cm,

Corylus avellana

Nuts grow in clusters, enclosed by a leaflike ‘bract’

The seeds are contained in a brown, prickly husk called beechmast (nuts)

BEECH

The seeds are shiny brown conkers in spiky cases

brown spindles

The distinctive hand-shaped leaf has five to seven leaflets

The dominant native species on chalk and limestone, beech prefers well-drained soils, but can be found in heavy clays. It has been widely planted in parks and gardens as well as in hedging. Beech is well known for its excellent autumn colour, but the early ‘spring green’ of the leaves is also highly attractive.

The wood is strong and tough and was used for tool handles and flooring. The beechmast (nuts) make good pig feed, and are widely eaten by mice, squirrels and birds. Bats like to roost in holes in the trunk or among tangles of exposed roots.

The dense shade cast by beechwoods means

they have a restricted but specialised flora, including bird’s-nest orchid, the rare ghost orchid and various helleborines.

Some 94 species of invertebrates have been found in beech trees, including the lobster moth and barred hooked-tip moth. Easily confused with: Hornbeam

Seed Guide

Check the first fall of beechmast in autumn – they may be empty. Collect only plump, ripe nuts from the ground. Sow immediately in a pot or seedbed, and protect from predators and severe frost.

Large, white, candle-like flowers have yellow spots that turn red with age or pollination

HORSE CHESTNUT

Aesculus hippocastanum

The horse chestnut was introduced into Britain from the Balkans in the early 17th century, and is now commonly found on village greens and in streets, parks and gardens.

It tolerates a wide range of conditions including dry sandy soils, wet clays and chalk, but prefers moist well-drained soils.

Its familiar nuts – conkers – are the essence of autumn and popular with schoolchildren. They provide food for deer and other mammals, while the flowers provide pollen for insects, particularly bees.

A new pest species has recently arrived in

YEAR 1

the UK – the horse chestnut leaf miner moth. The caterpillars eat chlorophyll from within the leaves, leaving brown spots and reducing the tree’s health. The long-term effects of this are currently unknown. See page 94 for more information.

Seed Guide

Collect plump, ripe, healthy looking nuts from the ground in autumn. Take the nuts out of their spiky casing, float them in water and only plant the ones that sink. Sow immediately in a pot or seedbed, and protect from predators and severe frost.

*Height>20cm, Root collar>6mm

Fagus sylvatica

The rounded male and female flower heads grow on the same branch

The oval leaves have a wavy margin

Buds are long, thin,

Flowers in June, six weeks after horse chestnut

The seeds are dark brown conkers in smooth, leathery cases

The husks surrounding the conkers always lack spines

The leaf is made up of usually five, but sometimes seven, leaflets

INDIAN HORSE CHESTNUT

Aesculus indica

Introduced to the UK from the Himalayas, Indian horse chestnut has dark-coloured conkers that are formed in spineless husks. It will grow in a variety of soils, but only becomes a large tree in loamy, well-drained soils. The species has little autumn colour.

SWEET BUCKEYE

Aesculus flava

Sometimes known as yellow buckeye, sweet buckeye has been grown in parks and gardens for its yellow autumn leaves. A native of south-eastern USA, sweet buckeye can grow in a variety of soils. Cream-coloured flower spikes, or ‘candles’, can be less impressive than those of horse chestnut.

Large, spear-shaped leaves with saw-toothed edges

SWEET CHESTNUT

The sweet chestnut was probably introduced to Britain by the Romans, who had a liking for chestnuts. The species is now widely established in Britain, being actively managed as coppiced woodland, especially in the south. The species prefers deep, moist sandy soils and drained clays, but doesn’t do well on very wet or lime-rich soils.

The strong, tough wood is good for fence posts and props, and the chestnuts are edible when roasted.

The tree provides good nest sites for birds such as woodpeckers and nuthatches, and nightingales often live in coppiced sweet chestnut woodlands.

Brownish twigs with orangeyred buds

Long, male catkins are often upright and have a distinctive, unpleasant smell

The oldest sweet chestnut in the country is the famous Tortworth chestnut, an amazing tree thought to be over 1,200 years old. This ancient hulk looks more like a small woodland rather than an individual tree.

Seed Guide

Collect plump, ripe, healthy looking nuts from the ground in autumn. Take the nuts out of their spiky casing, float them in water and only plant the ones that sink. Sow immediately in a pot or seedbed; and protect from predators and severe frost.

Seed Guide

Collect plump, ripe, healthy looking nuts from the ground in autumn. Take the nuts out of their casing, float them in water and only plant the ones that sink. Sow immediately in a pot or seedbed, and protect from predators and severe frost.

Castanea sativa

Round, green fruit contains a wrinkled brown nut that only ripens in long, hot summers

WALNUT

Juglans regia

The walnut was probably introduced into Britain by the Romans and has subsequently become widespread in southern and central England, especially in hedgerows. Further north it is found largely in parks and gardens.

The tree grows best on moderately fertile, well-drained soils and will grow on chalky soils. It dislikes wet or shallow soils, or peat.

Cut twigs reveal a distinctive chambered pith

Leaves are alternate and sharply toothed

Each large leaf has seven leaflets that get larger towards the tip

Green male catkins appear in May and June

HANDKERCHIEF TREE

Fruit ripens from green to red-brown

Often called the ‘king of timbers’, this hardwood was used to make aeroplane propellers and is still used for cabinet making, decorative veneers and rifle butts.

The foliage of walnut gives off a scent similar

to shoe polish, and a sprig kept in a jar is said to deter flies. The walnut itself is widely eaten by humans, either pickled or raw. Rooks also like them and many trees grow from walnuts buried and forgotten by these birds.

Easily confused with: Ash, elder, rowan

Seed Guide

Collect the fruits from the tree or ground as soon as the husks darken or turn black. Remove husks and sow immediately in a pot or seedbed; protect from predators and severe frost.

Also known as the dove tree, this medium-sized deciduous tree is a native of China. It arrived in Britain in 1902, brought by the plant hunter Ernest Wilson after a dangerous journey in which his boat sank in rapids and his guide was an opium addict.

Its English name is derived from its spectacular white ‘handkerchief’-like flowers, which have made it popular in parks and gardens. The fruit is a hard green nut containing three to five seeds.

Growing well on moist, well-drained soil, this is a tree that likes full sun or partial shade, protected from strong winds.

Seed Guide

Collect the nuts from the tree in October, when they turn reddish-brown and before they split open. Each nut will contain three to five seeds. Place the seeds into polythene bags containing sand or perlite (a lightweight granular material that aids water retention). Keep in a warm place for four to six months, then store in a cold place for three months. After this time, the nuts will have split and young roots will have emerged. Plant these young seedlings out in late autumn.

Davidia involucrata

Only female trees have bright red berries

Shiny, evergreen leaves have a waxy upper side and spiny edges

HOLLY

Ilex aquifolium

The holly is a widespread and distinctive native tree that grows on almost any soil. It tolerates shade well, and often grows as the understorey in woodlands, but also likes open situations and occurs widely in hedgerows.

There are male and female holly trees, which leads to one of the most commonly asked questions – ‘why doesn’t my holly produce berries?’ This will either be because the tree is male, or because there are no male trees in the area to produce pollen to fertilise the female.

The berries are eaten by birds, and the foliage

by deer and rabbits. Holly is also the foodplant of the holly blue butterfly, but only nine other invertebrate species have been found feeding on this tree.

Seed Guide

Collect the ripe, red berries from the tree in winter. Remove the seeds from the flesh and wash them thoroughly. If the flesh is hard to remove, soak the berries for a day or two. Stratify the seeds for one or more winters. Select and sow germinating seeds each spring.

*Height>20cm,

Holly berries

FLESHY FRUITS

The tiny female flowers produce the distinctive berries

Male flowers have four stamens

White flowers grow in clusters

Needles are dark green on their upper side and lighter green underneath

The red, fleshy fruit contains a single dark seed, which is poisonous

The spines on hawthorn are slightly longer than on Midland hawthorn

Fleshy, red haws contain a single seed

The oldest tree in Britain is probably a yew growing in the churchyard of Fortingall, Perthshire, which is thought to be thousands of years old. Many other ancient yews can be found in churchyards throughout Britain.

In the wild, yew trees prefer lime-rich soils and can, along with beech, become the dominant woodland type.

Historically, yew produced the finest longbows, enabling archers to fire arrows long distances.

The wildlife value of this species is limited, as the tree casts deep shade and few plants grow beneath it. The tree itself supports a limited

number of insects, though some birds eat the red flesh of the berries – known as arils – through the winter. The seed contained within the red flesh is poisonous.

Seed Guide

Collect fruit from the tree when the outer berry is a bright red colour. Remove the flesh and stratify the seeds for at least two winters. Select and sow germinating seeds in early spring of the second and successive years. Yew seeds take a long time to stratify, and the seedlings are also very slow growing, so do not be concerned.

HAWTHORN

Leaves have deeply divided lobes

flowers grow in clusters with a single style (female organ)

The hawthorn grows throughout Britain, apart from the extreme north-west of Scotland. It tolerates a very wide range of soils, except peat, and is probably best known as a hedgerow plant. Hawthorn has a high wildlife value, as its flowers provide nectar for spring insects while its berries provide excellent food for small mammals and birds, especially thrushes. Usually thought of as a hedging plant, hawthorn can grow to become a lovely medium-sized tree if left uncut.

The ‘May blossom’ of hawthorn is associated with stories and rituals. Regarded as symbols of hope, their scent was thought to revive the spirit

and drive off poisons, while wearing a sprig of hawthorn could protect you from lightning. Easily confused with: Field maple, Midland hawthorn

Seed Guide

Collect the red berries once they are ripe, from autumn onwards. Remove the seeds from the flesh and wash them thoroughly. If the flesh is hard to remove, soak the berries for a day or two. Stratify the seeds, occasionally for one, but usually for two winters. Select and sow germinating seeds each spring.

Taxus baccata

Crataegus monogyna

White

MIDLAND HAWTHORN

Midland hawthorn is the rarer of the two native hawthorn species, being found on heavy soils in shady woodlands, usually in the southeast of Britain. This species grows into a small tree more regularly than hawthorn and can be found growing along roadsides and in gardens. Many ornamental forms have been created, including ‘Paul’s Scarlet’, which is often seen in cities.

As with hawthorn, the wood has been used for tool handles and walking sticks.

The stems of Midland hawthorn are often contorted, improving the walking sticks one can make from the tree. While the flowers provide

nectar for spring insects, the berries provide excellent food for small mammals and birds, especially thrushes.

Easily confused with: Hawthorn, field maple

Seed Guide

Collect the red berries once they are ripe, from autumn onwards. Remove the seeds from the flesh and wash them thoroughly. If the flesh is hard to remove, soak the berries for a day or two.

Stratify the seeds, occasionally for one, or more usually two, winters. Select and sow germinating seeds each spring.

The twig has opposite buds

Each bright berry contains one seed and grows in a cluster

Large, white, outer flowers are sterile

The opposite leaves have three to five lobes and are hairy underneath

GUELDER ROSE

Viburnum opulus

This multi-stemmed shrub or small tree grows to a height of four metres. It is found naturally in woodland, scrub and hedgerows.

The main stems carry the flower buds, which develop into flowers in June and July. The flower heads have large, sterile, outer flowers with smaller, fertile, yellow inner flowers.

Once pollinated, the plant develops bright red berries in the autumn, each containing a single seed. The berries are eaten by a range of birds, which distribute the seeds in their droppings at a distance from the parent plant.

The combination of colourful berries and leaves

YEAR 1

that turn a vivid red in October have made guelder rose a popular ornamental shrub for gardens. There is a wide range of ornamental varieties. It is commonly found growing on moist, limerich soils. As it needs light to flower, this is not a shade-loving species.

Easily confused with: Wayfaring tree

Seed Guide

Collect the ripe, red fruits. Remove seeds from the fruit and wash thoroughly. Stratify the seeds for one winter or two. Select and sow germinating seeds in the first or second spring.

Crataegus laevigata

The red haws contain two seeds

Spiny twigs with long thorns and alternate buds

Leaves have shallower lobes than hawthorn

White flowers in clusters with two styles (female organs)

The twigs are grey brown and somewhat hairy with opposite buds

WAYFARING TREE

This small, deciduous, multi-stemmed shrub or small tree occurs naturally in Britain, and can reach a height of six metres. It occurs in hedgerows and scrubby areas, as well as along woodland edges.

The flower heads occur at the ends of the stems, and consist of clusters of small, white flowers. Once pollinated by bees and other insects, the fruits begin to ripen from July to September. As they ripen, the clusters of berries turn from green through red to black. The berry contains a single seed, which is dispersed when it is eaten by birds. The wayfaring tree grows well on lime-rich

The young twigs are green and turn red as a result of sunshine

Opposite leaves turn deep red in autumn

The berries change from red to blueblack as they ripen

DOGWOOD

soils, but not where the soil is waterlogged. Easily confused with: Guelder rose

Seed Guide

Collect the ripe, blueish-black fruits. Remove the seeds from the fruit and wash them thoroughly. Stratify the seeds for one winter or two. Select and sow germinating seeds in the first or second spring.

This medium to large, native, deciduous shrub or small tree grows naturally across much of Britain, except for northernmost Scotland. It can grow two to six metres high and is commonly found in scrub habitats alongside riversides, woodland edges and hedgerows. It tolerates a wide range of soils, but prefers a sunny, well-drained location.

Small flowers can be seen in spring at the end of twigs in dense clusters, which are followed by small, black berries in autumn. Dogwood leaves provide food for wildlife including micro-moths, while its berries are eaten by birds and mammals. Easily confused with: Ornamental dogwood species

Seed Guide

Collect the ripe, black fruits in autumn. Remove the seeds from the flesh and wash thoroughly. The seeds are deeply dormant: they may germinate after one winter following stratification, or two. Germination can be improved by keeping stratifying seeds at room temperature for two months, before putting them outside for the remainder of the winter. Select and sow germinating seeds in the first or second spring. The seedlings will be ready for planting out in two to three years. Dogwood can also be propagated by taking cuttings of shoots or roots.

Viburnum lantana

The large opposite leaves have dense white hairs underneath

Umbrellashaped clusters of small, white flowers

Cornus sanguinea

Black berries ripen in autumn. Each fruit contains one seed

of small, pungent-smelling white flowers

WILD PRIVET

A large, semi-evergreen shrub growing up to four metres high, found throughout the UK. Native to Europe, it can be found growing naturally in hedgerows, woodlands and scrub, particularly in southern England and Wales, and is often used in hedgerows in urban areas.

Wild privet tolerates a wide range of soils, but prefers well-drained, calcareous soils.

It has clusters of small, white flowers on branch tips from June onwards. Small berries ripen in the autumn to black, and often survive through the winter. The berries are a good food source for birds, particularly thrushes.

The fruit is a small capsule containing black seeds

poisonous, matte black berries in autumn

Buxus sempervirens

Flowers are small and white. They appear in clusters at the junction of the leaves and stem

Small, shiny, evergreen leaves grow in opposite pairs

Seed Guide

Collect the small, black fruits in autumn, before the birds have eaten them all. Each berry will have between one and four seeds that are deeply dormant. Cold stratify the seeds for 8–12 weeks, then they can be planted in deep pots or trays. Growth in the first year is usually 15cm–40cm. Allow them to grow for one or two years, before planting them in a permanent position. Can also be propagated by cutting.

Easily confused with: Box and cultivated varieties

This shrub or small evergreen tree can reach a maximum height of about nine metres. It is a native of western Europe and is probably a native of England though, as it was planted extensively in Britain by the Romans, it may have spread naturally from gardens in Roman settlements.

Box can be found growing wild in southern England, the most famous site being Box Hill in Surrey, and in the Chilterns.

The evergreen leaves persist for five or six years, which is why the species is frequently used for hedging and topiary.

Because the dense and fine-grained wood is

very close to ivory in texture, it has been used extensively for turning and inlay. Easily confused with: There are many cultivated varieties of box

Seed Guide

The tree’s fruits are three-celled capsules, with each cell containing two seeds. They split along six lines, expelling the shiny, black, smooth seeds. Collect the seed capsules when they are ripe and keep them in a paper bag until they open. Sow in a pot or seedbed immediately, or stratify through the winter to improve germination rates.

Ligustrum vulgare

Clusters

Distinguished from garden privet by minute hairs on the stems at the tips of the branches

Small, oval, glossy green leaves

Small, green-yellow flowers occur on the upper surface of the leaf like stem extensions

BUTCHER’S BROOM

A low, evergreen, native shrub up to one metre tall, butcher’s broom is widespread in England and Wales, with a few populations in Scotland and Ireland. It can be found growing in deep shade, in woodlands and hedgerows, on rocky cliffs and ground near the sea. Butcher’s broom favours poor, well drained soils, making it useful as a shrub layer in woodlands.

It produces tiny, green-yellow flowers from September, which bloom from January to late April. Green berries form over the summer, turning red in autumn. They’re not popular with birds and animals, so they remain on the plant

through the winter into the next spring. As a result, distribution by seeds may be limited, and most plants spread by underground rhizomes.

Seed Guide

Collect the berries from September. Germination can be improved by keeping stratifying seeds at room temperature for two weeks, before putting them outside for the winter. Sow thinly in early spring in light shade in a greenhouse. Germination may take 12–24 months. Prick them out into individual pots in the following spring, and grow on for another year before planting out.

Ruscus aculeatus

Female flowers develop into a bright red, round berry

KanphotoSS/Shutterstock

Butcher’s broom

Shiny, brown twigs have scattered, wart-like lenticels (raised pores that allow gas exchange)

Ripe, rounded, red fruits have only a few small or medium-sized lenticels

White flowers grow in clusters

Dark green leaves have densely white, hairy undersides and are unlobed

WHITEBEAM

The whitebeam is a native tree that prefers chalk and lime-rich soils, but also tolerates other soil types. Its ability to withstand pollution means it is widely planted in urban areas. However, such trees are often ornamental forms of the wild species and are unlikely to produce a reasonable crop of seeds.

The tree’s hard, tough wood was used to make machinery cogs. Its overripe berries can be turned into jelly to accompany venison.

As with all Sorbus trees, the berries are eaten by birds, while the flowers attract insects and the white caterpillar of the tiny moth Argynesthia

sorbiella feeds on the shoots and flower buds. Easily confused with: Some Sorbus species, particularly Swedish whitebeam

Seed Guide

Collect bunches of fruits when they turn crimson. Remove the seeds from the flesh and wash thoroughly. Stratify the seed, usually for one winter. In cool autumns, germination can be improved by keeping stratifying seeds at room temperature for two weeks, before putting them outside for the winter. Select and sow germinating seeds in spring.

Orange-red fruits that are longer than they are wide, with only a few spots

SWEDISH WHITEBEAM WHITEBEAM

Sorbus intermedia Sorbus devoniensis

Introduced from Scandinavia, this medium-sized tree is now widely planted in Britain. It generally grows to a height of 10 metres, though 18 metres has been recorded. The leaves are lobed, sometimes deeply. The white flowers produce orange-red or occasionally red ripe fruits in the autumn.

Seed Guide

*Height>20cm, Root collar>4mm

This rare, native, deciduous tree grows only in Devon. It grows in hedgerows where it favours soils layered over shales, grits and slates, rather than lime-rich soils. Believed to be a hybrid of wild service and whitebeam, this tree is able to clone its seeds without fertilisation.

Collect bunches of fruits when they turn orange-brown. Remove the seeds from the flesh and wash thoroughly. Stratify the seed, usually for one winter. In cool autumns, germination can be improved by keeping stratifying seeds at room temperature for two weeks, before putting them outside for the winter. Select and sow germinating seeds in spring.

For the calendar, see whitebeam (left)

Sorbus aria

Dark green leaves have grey hairs underneath

The large berries ripen from red to dark brown

Each leaf consists of numerous pairs of

ROWAN

Rowan is a tree of mountains, woodlands and valleys throughout Britain, growing on a wide range of soils including chalk, acidic and even peat. It has been widely planted in parks, gardens and streets due to its striking red berries – which occur as early as July – and its attractive foliage in autumn.

The tree has excellent wildlife value, providing fruit for thrushes and blackbirds, which help rowan to colonise new areas by eating and dispersing the seeds widely.

Easily confused with: Ash, elder, walnut

Seed Guide

Collect the ripening clusters of berries from late August, to beat the birds. If the flesh is very red, the seeds inside will be dormant and may take two years to germinate. Surplus seed can be stored for two years. Carefully remove the seeds from the flesh and wash thoroughly. Stratify the seed, usually for one winter. In cool autumns, germination can be improved by keeping stratifying seeds at room temperature for two weeks, before putting them outside for the winter. Select and sow germinating seeds in spring.

Shiny, lobed leaves have basal lobes (pair of leaf lobes nearest the stalk) at right angles to the stalk

WILD SERVICE TREE

Sorbus torminalis

The wild service tree is the rarer woodland relative of rowan and whitebeam, appearing to germinate only in areas of ancient woodland, for which it is an indicator. It is found on chalk and limestone, but also on nutrient-rich clays. It has spectacular autumn colour.

In the Weald of Kent and Sussex, the fruit is known as ‘chequers’ or ‘chequer berries’. Many pubs in this area are called ‘The Chequers’ and it may be that the berries were added to beer. Wild service berries provide good food for birds. Easily confused with: Field maple and other maples

Seed Guide

Rounded, brown fruits in clusters

Be warned – wild service trees are prone to interbreed with other Sorbus species, so the seeds may not be true wild service trees. Fully ripe clusters of berries should be picked in September. Carefully remove the seeds from the flesh and wash thoroughly. Stratify the seeds, usually for one winter. In cool autumns, germination can be improved by keeping stratifying seeds at room temperature for two weeks, before putting them outside for the winter. Select and sow germinating seeds in spring.

Sorbus aucuparia

Distinctive red berries

Creamy white flowers appear in spring

stalkless leaflets

The fruit is apple or pear-shaped, and yellow-green to brown in colour

TRUE SERVICE

Flowers are creamy white and grow

Clusters of greenish flowers with four petals

The fruit is a pink capsule containing four orange seeds

Opposite leaves with small, irregular ‘teeth’ around the margins

This rare, native species is found growing wild in only a few places in the UK, including the cliffs of South Wales and woodlands in Worcestershire. For many years, the only known tree in the wild was a specimen called ‘The Whitty Pear’, growing in a remote part of Wyre Forest in Worcestershire. This tree was described in 1678 by Mr. Pitt and, historically, inhabitants of the district used to hang pieces of the bark round their necks as a charm to cure a sore throat.

True service is now grown as an ornamental, or occasionally for its small, pear-shaped fruits, which contain its seeds.

This cold-hardy tree can potentially live for hundreds of years. It is suited to sunny positions and limestone soils and can tolerate coastal environments well.

Seed Guide

Sow ripe seeds as early as possible outdoors into a prepared seedbed. Alternatively, seeds may germinate better if stratified over winter. Plant out in October if seedlings are big enough, or protect for one more winter and plant out the following spring.

EUROPEAN SPINDLE

Euonymus europaeus

A native, deciduous shrub or small tree, European spindle can grow to a height of six metres. Fairly inconspicuous most of the year, spindle comes into its own in the autumn, when its opposite leaves turn a glorious red offset by its striking pink-red seed capsules, and bright orange seeds. Unfortunately, these berries are poisonous and can cause problems if eaten.

Growing in hedgerows and wood edges, and thriving on chalky or salt-poor soils, plus good deep, rich soils, spindle has become a popular plant in parks and gardens. Historically, dyes were made from the berries.

Three colours were obtained: green by boiling the seeds with alum; yellow by boiling the seeds alone; and red from the seed capsules. Skewers were also made from the branches for butchers and cooks, and the leaves, when dried and powdered, were said to drive away vermin from children’s heads.

Seed Guide

Seeds germinate well when only just pink. Collect the seed from the pods and stratify them for 16 weeks outdoors. Sow the seeds in a seedbed in spring.

*Height>20cm,

Sorbus domestica

WILD CHERRY

This native tree is common in woodlands and has often been planted in parks, gardens and streets for its spring flowers. It prefers deep, moist soils, particularly lime-rich ones.

Historically, the leaves were used to flavour liquors and custards, while the bark produced a fine yellow dye. At Ely, in Cambridgeshire, people visited the cherry orchards on what was called Cherry Sunday. Arriving at the orchard, they paid sixpence each to eat as many cherries as they liked straight from the tree.

Easily confused with: Crab apple, other cherries, wild pear and hornbeam

Black cherries contain a single hard stone

Light green leaves have fine, regular teeth

Fragrant, white flowers grow in loose clusters

BIRD CHERRY

Seed Guide

Collect the fruits from the tree by hand, when they turn yellow-red in July. You may need to collect them before they ripen, otherwise the birds will eat them. Carefully remove the seeds from the flesh and wash thoroughly. Stratify the seed, usually for one winter. With later collections, germination can be improved by keeping stratifying seeds at room temperature for two weeks, before putting them outside for the winter. Select and sow germinating seeds in spring.

Wild bird cherry is most widespread by limestone streams in the Scottish Glens, the Lake District and in the Pennines. It is grown in streets and gardens in the south of England for its attractive white flowers, which bloom in May. These provide food for many insects and its cherries are eaten by a variety of birds and small mammals in summer.

The reddish-brown heartwood was used in cabinet making and woodturning, while extracts from the bark were used for medicinal purposes. The bitter, black cherries were used to flavour brandies and wines.

Easily confused with: Crab apple, other cherries, wild pear and hornbeam

Seed Guide

Collect the fruits from the tree by hand when they turn black. Carefully remove the seeds from the flesh and wash thoroughly. Stratify the seed, usually for one winter. With later collections, germination can be improved by keeping stratifying seeds at room temperature for two weeks, before putting them outside for the winter. Select and sow germinating seeds in spring.

*Height>20cm, Root

Prunus avium

Fruit is a bright red cherry

Long leaves with forward-pointing teeth

Leaf stalks have red warts near the leaf

White flowers grow in clusters of up to six blooms

Prunus padus

Abundant small, white flowers bloom before the leaves appear in early spring

BLACKTHORN

This widespread, shrubby species can often be found on woodland edges and grows well on a wide range of soils. It can grow into a small tree and its spines make it good for hedging.

The blue-black berries, known as sloes, are used to flavour gin or can be made into jam. In the 18th and early 19th century, blackthorn leaves were used as a substitute for Chinese tea, which was expensive at the time.

Blackthorn produces abundant white flowers in early spring, which attract flying insects, especially solitary bees. The caterpillar of the black hairstreak butterfly feeds on the leaves.

The blueblack fruits, called sloes, are distinctive

Small, dull green leaves grow on dark, thorny twigs

The bluegrey berries are, in fact, fleshy cones

Blue-green needles are spiky, with a distinctive white band on their upper surface

Easily confused with: Crab apple, wild plum, damson

Seed Guide

Collect the fruit from the bush after the leaves have fallen, from September onwards. Remove the seeds from the flesh and wash thoroughly. Stratify the seeds, usually for one winter. In cool autumns, germination can be improved by keeping stratifying seeds at room temperature for two weeks, before putting them outside for the winter. Select and sow germinating seeds in spring.

COMMON JUNIPER

Juniperus communis

A small, evergreen coniferous tree or large shrub, common juniper grows to a height of 10m. One of the most widely distributed trees in northern Europe, its range in Britain is curious, being found on the chalk and limestone of southern England and in the uplands of Wales, northern England and Scotland. With a wide range of medicinal and culinary uses, juniper is perhaps best known for its ‘berries’, which are used to flavour gin. Oddly, these are, in fact, small cones with a coating that ripens to a blue/black colour. Each berry contains six fused scales, each of which is a single seed.

The dense, evergreen canopy and crop of berries provided by juniper offer valuable shelter and food for birds such as goldcrests and thrushes.

Seed Guide

Collect the cones from the bush, remove the seeds from the flesh and wash thoroughly. Stratify the seeds, though they may take two winters to germinate. Collecting green seeds can speed up the process, allowing them to germinate after one winter. Once germinated, sow in a pot or a seedbed.

Prunus spinosa

Small male and female cones are green when young

PURGING BUCKTHORN

The buckthorn is a shrub of chalk and limestone in southern and central England. It grows in hedgerows or as scrub on downland, and can occasionally form a small tree.

Buckthorn is one of the favourite foodplants of brimstone and green hairstreak butterflies, and its berries are popular with birds. Historically, the inner bark was used to induce vomiting, and the berries have a purgative effect, leading to one of the plant’s common names –purging blackthorn. So strong is that purgative quality that it was said even eating the flesh of birds that had consumed the berries could bring

on the desired effects.

Dyes were also once made from this plant –the ripe berries being used to produce a green dye and the bark a beautiful yellow colour. Easily confused with: Dogwood, alder buckthorn

Seed Guide

To beat the birds, collect the fruits before they are fully ripe (i.e. completely black). Remove the seeds from the fruit and wash thoroughly.

Stratify the seed, usually for one winter, occasionally two. Select and sow germinating seeds in spring.

The alternate, shiny, untoothed leaves have seven to nine veins

ALDER BUCKTHORN

The berries turn from green to red, then purple-black

The alder buckthorn is a native shrub or small tree that grows on peaty soils in damp woods and bogs. It is not related to either alder or buckthorn, but can be found growing with alder in wet woodlands. It has attractive autumn colours. This species had a wide range of uses. The wood was used to prepare charcoal, due to its slow-burning nature. Its berries, which ripen from green to red then black, were used for wool dyes. The unripe berries produce green and yellow shades, while the ripe berries produce blue-grey, blue and green shades. Alder buckthorn is the foodplant of the

brimstone butterfly.

The bark also has purgative qualities like buckthorn, but was more often used on animals. Easily confused with: Dogwood and purging buckthorn

Seed Guide

Collect the fruits before they are fully ripe, from late summer to early autumn. Remove seeds from the fruit and wash thoroughly. Stratify the seed, usually for one winter, occasionally two. Select and sow germinating seeds in spring.

Rhamnus cathartica

Black berries grow in clusters

The leaves have finely toothed edges, and veins that point to the tip

Frangula alnus

Thin, willow-like leaves are dark green on top and covered with silver hairs below

SEA BUCKTHORN

A native shrub growing to a height of nine metres, sea buckthorn occurs naturally along the east coast of England and has been planted in other coastal locations. It is a hardy species, being both salt and drought resistant. Because it suckers well, it spreads easily and has been used to stabilise extensive sand-dune areas.

The dense branches are spiny, with silvery green leaves. The bright orange berries are an important food source for migrating thrushes arriving along the east coast in the autumn. Oil derived from the berries has had a wide range of medicinal uses as they contain anti-

The fruit is a small nut, which develops in September or October

Berries are a vibrant orange

The flowers are small catkins that appear before the leaves in April and May

SWEET GALE

oxidants, vitamin C, E and beta-carotene, which form a vital part of the body’s defence system.

The beautiful orange colour from the berries can be extracted using hot water and has been used as a dye for wool.

Seed Guide

Collect the ripe berries from September to December and separate the seeds from the flesh. Wash the seeds thoroughly and stratify them for at least 12 weeks. In spring, collect the germinating seeds and plant out in pots or a seedbed.

This small tree or shrub, also known as bog myrtle, grows well in wet moorland regions of the UK, as well as acid heathlands and peat bogs. It can cope with these harsh conditions because its roots have nitrogen-fixing bacteria, which enables the plant to grow.

It is known for its aromatic leaves and was used for flavouring beer and making tea, for adding scent to candles, and as an insect repellent.

It is also traditionally used in royal wedding bouquets after Queen Victoria planted a sprig on the Isle of Wight.

Small, brownish berries are produced in the

1

autumn after flowers on catkins are fertilised in the spring.

Seed Guide

Collect ripe fruit in late summer, remove all wax, wash in warm detergent water and rinse. Either sow in autumn or cold stratify for two months and sow in late spring. Alternatively, propagate from cuttings – take a cutting in early to midsummer and set upright in well-drained soil.

Hippophae rhamnoides

Myrica gale

Large, heartshaped leaves are hairy on both sides

BLACK MULBERRY

The black mulberry has been widely planted in parks and gardens in southern England for its tasty, wine-red coloured fruit. Originally from Asia, it was introduced to Britain in the 14th century.

King James I increased the number planted in Britain to build up the silk industry, in the mistaken belief that silkworms fed on the leaves of the tree. In fact, silkworms favour the white mulberry Morus alba, which remains uncommon in Britain.

It can be raised from seed, however, the more common way of growing new trees is to drive a

‘truncheon’ – a two metre length of branch –one metre into the ground. It will then sprout to produce a new tree.

Seed Guide

Black mulberries are a similar shape and colour to raspberries. They fall from the tree when ripe and should be collected quickly before they are eaten by birds and animals. Squeeze the sticky fruits in your hands to release the seeds and wash them thoroughly. Stratify the seeds, usually for one winter, and inspect regularly. Select and sow germinating seeds from late winter onwards.

The fruit is a bright red berry that is highly poisonous to humans

MEZEREUM SPURGE LAUREL

Mezereum is a rare, woody evergreen shrub. The light pink flowers have a strong, sweet scent and appear on the woody stems of the plant, before the leaves. Mezereum is a useful early source of nectar for insects where it grows. It occurs naturally in woodlands in a variety of soils, so prefers shade but can tolerate sunny sites.

Seed Guide

Spurge laurel is a small woodland shrub that resembles a young laurel bush. It prefers chalk soils, but can tolerate acidic sites. Its leaves are dark green and glossy on top, lighter underneath. Its flowers carry a strong scent in late winter or very early spring. Its seeds are held within toxic black berries that ripen in late summer.

Collect berries in late summer. Remove fresh, ripe seed from flesh, sow in pots in a sheltered, shady spot and keep moist. Germination can take up to two years. Alternatively, propagate from cuttings by taking a cutting in mid to late summer and setting upright in well-drained soil.

Morus nigra

Daphne mezereum

Daphne laureola

Leaves consist of five to seven toothed leaflets, which smell unpleasant

ELDER

Elder is a large, native shrub or small tree, which likes nitrogen-rich soils. It grows particularly well near abandoned buildings, churchyards and other places where organic matter has enriched the soil. If allowed to grow into a mature tree, elder has hard wood. This was often used for pegs and toys or, occasionally, for cogs in mills when hornbeam was not available.

The flowers and berries have a wide range of culinary uses, being made into wines or jams. The flower buds can be infused as a tea. Various dyes can be made from parts of the tree, while the leaves can be made into an insecticide.

The berries and flowers provide excellent food for birds, mammals and insects, including bees, flies and beetles.

Easily confused with: Ash, rowan and walnut

Seed Guide

Collect the clusters of berries from the tree when they turn dark purple to black in August to October. Carefully squeeze the fruits to release the seeds, then remove the seeds from the flesh and wash thoroughly. Stratify the seed, occasionally for one winter, but often two. Select and sow germinating seeds in spring.

The small, green apples ripen during September

The flowers are pollinated by bees and other insects

Leaves have pointed tips with smooth undersides and toothed edges

*Height>20cm, Root collar>5mm

CRAB APPLE

The pinkish-white flowers are scented and have yellow anthers

The crab apple is a tree of hedges, copses and oak woodlands, thriving in fertile and heavy soils. It often grows singly, with large distances between individual trees. Crab apple was the original ancestor of domesticated apple varieties. Historically, when a new variety was being developed, the wild crab apple rootstock was used. Crab apple wood was used for engraving and the fruit can also be used for jams, wine and a fermented apple juice called verjuice. The tree also provides excellent growing conditions for mistletoe, and its fruits are an important winter food source for birds and mammals.

Easily confused with: Wild pear, cherry

Seed Guide

Collect the fruit from the tree or the ground when it turns yellow-orange. If you can hear the ‘pips’ rattle when you shake the apple, it is ripe. Cut it open and if the seeds are brown this confirms its ripeness. Carefully remove the seeds and stratify them, usually for one winter. In cool autumns, germination can be improved by keeping stratifying seeds at room temperature for two weeks, before putting them outside for the winter. Select and sow germinating seeds in spring.

Sambucus nigra

Black berries develop in clusters

Malus sylvestris

Small, green pears ripen and contain brown seeds

WILD PEAR

Dark, glossy leaves have smaller teeth than crab apples, with a longer leaf stalk

Clusters of white flowers with five petals and purple anthers

Dangling clusters of white, bell-shaped flowers

The wild pear can be found scattered alongside road verges, in hedgerows and on woodland edges throughout the country. It is also planted in parks and gardens. It is an uncommon tree, and may actually be rare, as many supposed wild pears are actually ‘wildings’ – trees descended from domesticated pears.

The wild tree has spiny branches and produces small, gritty pears. The dark brown bark cracks into distinctive plates. Its flowers attract insects in spring, though to the human nose they smell fishy. The tree also provides excellent growing conditions for mistletoe.

Easily confused with: Cherry, crab apple

Seed Guide

Collect the fruit from the tree or the ground when ripe. Cut open the pear, and if the seeds are brown this confirms that they are ripe. Carefully remove the seeds and stratify them, usually for one winter. In cool autumns, germination can be improved by keeping stratifying seeds at room temperature for two weeks, before putting them outside for the winter. Select and sow germinating seeds in spring.

STRAWBERRY TREE

Arbutus unedo

This is a small tree found growing wild in parts of western Ireland, but is generally thought of as a shrub in the Mediterranean. It is difficult to be certain when the species was introduced to mainland Britain, but some evidence suggests that it arrived in the middle of the 16th century.

This tree’s flowers appear in autumn, in short, drooping groups. The fruit ripens the following autumn, resulting in flowers and berries appearing simultaneously. The stalked berry resembles a strawberry, hence the name, but is, in fact, very different.

In order to thrive, this tree needs warm

conditions in winter and damp conditions in summer. Though Arbutus is easily raised from seed, the seedlings suffer from cold winds and frost damage. The tree’s Latin name is ‘unedo’, from the meaning ‘I eat one’. This is because though the berries look like strawberries, you can only eat one because they taste fairly disgusting.

Seed Guide

Collect the ripe, red fruits. Carefully remove the tiny seeds from the flesh and wash thoroughly. Stratify the seeds, usually for one winter, and sow them in a pot or seedbed in spring.

Pyrus communis

A small, evergreen tree with fruit that resembles strawberries

Male flowers are catkin-like, on short shoots

MAIDENHAIR TREE

Unique

The female flowers are at the end of a stalk

The fruit resembles small, unripe plums

Alternate, five-lobed leaves turn brilliant reddish-purple in autumn

SWEET GUM

Ginkgo trees are the only survivors of a group of plants (Ginkgoales) that were widespread globally 170 million years ago. Thought by some scientists to be the first trees to have evolved, they grew in Britain 60 million years ago.

About 30 million years ago, the species disappeared from the native flora as a result of climatic changes. Ginkgos were brought back to Europe from Japan during the 18th century and arrived in Britain in 1754.

The unique leaves are very distinctive, and the male and female trees are separate. When the ripe, orange fruit falls from the female trees it

rots, emitting a foul smell similar to vomit that is thought to have attracted dinosaurs.

Ginkgos thrive in deep, well-drained, rich soil, and are excellent trees for towns and cities as they are resistant to attack by insects and fungi and the leaves resist air pollution.

Seed Guide

Collect the bright orange, fleshy fruits once they are ripe. Remove the seeds from the flesh and wash them thoroughly. Stratify the seed, usually for one winter. Select and sow germinating seeds next spring.

A large, deciduous tree that can reach 50m in its native America, but rarely makes more than 30m in the UK. It was first grown at the Fulham Palace Gardens by the Bishop Compton in 1681.

Sweet gum prefers a moist but not wet soil in a sunny sheltered position, disliking shallow soils overlying chalk.

The fruits are round and spiky, and are composed of 20–50 capsules. Each capsule contains one to two small seeds, though often only a few are fertile. The bright green leaves turn a brilliant red-purple or yellow colour in autumn, making this an excellent tree for parks, streets

and large gardens. However, the wood is brittle, which can lead to branches dropping off during high winds.

Seed Guide

Collect the fruit as it ripens at the end of October or November. Collect the fruits from the tree before they split and put them in a paper bag, then keep in a warm room. Shake the bag until the seeds fall out of the capsules. The seed requires one to three months stratification and sometimes takes two winters to germinate. Once germinated, sow in the early spring into pots or a seedbed.

Ginkgo biloba

fan-shaped leaves with two lobes

Liquidambar styraciflua

Spiky fruits contain small, winged, brown seeds

Distinctive, four-lobed leaves look as though the leaf tip has been cut off

TULIP TREE

Liriodendron tulipifera

A fast-growing large tree reaching up to 40m, this native of the east coast of the United States is thought to have been introduced to Britain in the middle of the 17th century by John Tradescant.

The tree requires a deep, moist, rich soil, and prefers it to be slightly acid. It grows well in both sun and semi-shade, and tolerates pollution, which makes it ideal for urban locations where space permits.

As a member of the magnolia family, the tree has tulip-shaped, magnolia-like flowers, but very different buds and twigs. The leaves are glossy and have distinctive four-lobed leaves with flattened

The fruit is a cone-like structure inside which the small, light brown seeds develop

ends. In autumn, they turn bright yellow-gold, making the tree attractive at this time of year.

Seed Guide

Collect the seed from October onwards once the fruit turns brown. Stratify the seeds for seven to 12 weeks outdoors. Germination is usually poor, only about one percent of the seed is viable. Take the germinating seeds and pot up in a pot or a seedbed.

Reddish twigs and buds

LONDON PLANE

Platanus x hispanica

This large, deciduous tree is thought to be a hybrid between the Oriental plane (P. orientalis) and American plane (P. occidentalis), though it may simply be a form of Oriental plane.

The London plane has distinctive bark with large plates that flake off, leaving creamy patches. As a result, it copes well with pollution, and was planted widely in urban streets and squares in the 18th and 19th centuries, changing forever the treescape of British cities.

The species grows well in moist loamy soil, but can tolerate very wet, poorly drained soils. The leaves also show characteristics between

the two parent species, being more deeply lobed than American plane and less so than the Oriental.

Seed Guide

Collect seed balls any time after they turn brown. Allow to dry at room temperature until the ball can be broken up to release tiny, individual seeds. Often, a high percentage are empty, but don’t bother trying to separate them! The tiny seeds can be sown immediately and should be covered by a thin layer of sharp sand, and left over winter until they germinate the following spring.

The fruit is a peculiar spiky seed ball

Large, alternate, five-lobed leaves

Flower balls can be male or female, on a long stalk

Leaves have three to six pairs of stalked leaflets, with a single terminal leaflet

ASH

Ash is a widespread, native woodland tree that prefers moist, well-drained and fertile soils. It is very intolerant of shade – young trees will fail to grow in densely shaded areas. Large, spreading specimens can often be seen in hedgerows.

A mature ash can produce 100,000 seeds in one season. The flowers may be male, female or hermaphrodite, though it is most common to find all-male or all-female trees. The flowers open before the leaves.

Ash has high wildlife value and supports nearly 1,000 species of wildlife including invertebrates, birds, lichen and fungi.

Unfortunately, a fungal disease called ash dieback is killing millions of ash trees throughout Europe, and the future of ash is uncertain. Easily confused with: Elder, rowan, walnut

Seed Guide

Clusters of ash fruits are known as ‘keys’. Wait until they have turned brown before collecting them from the tree. Separate the individual keys and stratify for at least two winters. Protect from predators and severe frost. Select and sow germinating seeds in early spring of the second and successive years.

Fraxinus excelsior

Single seeds have a long wing

Flowers may be male, female or hermaphrodite

Leaflets are broader than those of ash

MANNA ASH

Reasonably common in urban areas and parks, the manna ash grows to about 15m, has somewhat twisting branches and a more dome-shaped crown than the native common ash. It can tolerate several soil types, but prefers drier conditions with lots of sun.

Its flowers are pollinated by insects in late spring and early summer when the tree can be covered in fluffy, cream-coloured blooms. Unfortunately, a fungal disease called ash dieback is killing millions of ash trees throughout Europe and the manna ash is susceptible to infection. Easily confused with: Ash

Leaf buds are pinkish-brown, rather than black

Each pair of seeds lies in a straight line

Small leaves have three main lobes and two smaller basal lobes

Clusters of greenish flowers appear with the first leaves

Seed Guide

Clusters of ash fruits are known as ‘keys’. Wait until they have turned brown before collecting them from the tree. Separate the individual keys and stratify for at least two winters. Protect from predators and severe frost. Select and sow germinating seeds in early spring of the second and successive years.

FIELD MAPLE

Britain’s only native maple, the field maple is a species that prefers lime-rich soil, but will tolerate other conditions. It occurs naturally in hedges and as the understorey in woodlands and copses throughout England and Wales. It is often grown in parks and gardens because of its beautiful autumn colour and its ability to tolerate air pollution. In the past, it was used for topiary. The wood of the field maple is soft, but it produces beautiful veneer that is used for wood turning and furniture. Historically, it was also used to make harps.

Field maple is an important habitat for more than 50 invertebrate species. The leaves are attractive to aphids, which in turn feed many insects and birds. The winged seeds – the ‘keys’ – are often eaten by small mammals. Easily confused with: Hawthorn, sycamore

Seed Guide

Collect the seeds from the tree in autumn, when they are brown. Stratify the seed, usually for one winter. Select and sow germinating seeds in spring. Can also be sown directly into the ground in November.

Fraxinus ornus

Acer campestre

The angle of the seeds is much narrower than field maple

SYCAMORE

Acer pseudoplatanus

This large tree grows in many habitats and soil types. Sycamore is an excellent coloniser and is often considered a problem species in certain habitats, including woodland, where it can become dominant.

Sycamore is widely distributed in Britain; only ash and hawthorn are more widespread. Yet its invasive potential, and heavy honeydew production, have given it a poor reputation. Still, sycamore provides an important food source for some types of invertebrates, such as bees, and migrating birds.

Large leaves are five-lobed, with dark green upper sides

Hanging clusters of greenish flowers appear when the leaves have fully developed

Triangular nutlets grow in clusters of eight, each with a leafy bract

Leaves have reddish stalks and 10-15 pairs of veins, which lead to a toothed edge

Male and female catkins are both found on the same tree

A carving, dated to 1289, of the leaves and seeds

of sycamore on a shrine to St Frideswide at Christ Church, Oxford, suggests that the species has been in Britain longer than people imagine. Easily confused with: Field maple, other maples

Seed Guide

Collect the fruits from the tree in autumn when they turn brown. Don’t let them dry out or they will die. Stratify the seeds for one winter. Select and sow germinating seeds in spring. Alternatively, sow immediately in a pot or seedbed, and allow to stratify naturally over winter. Protect from predators and severe frost.

HORNBEAM

Carpinus betulus

Hornbeams are native trees found largely in south-eastern England, with scattered trees in other parts of the country. They tolerate a wide range of soils, including sands, gravels and heavy clay, but grow best on damp, fertile soils.

Hornbeams produce excellent autumn colours, from golden yellow to orange, and retain their leaves throughout much of the winter.

One of the hardest and toughest woods in Britain, the name hornbeam derives from the fact that the wood is as hard as horn. It was used for cattle yokes, waterwheels and butchers’ chopping blocks. The timber also makes excellent firewood.

Hornbeams are valuable to wildlife, producing nutlets that are eaten by hawfinches and small mammals. Over 170 species of invertebrates have been found feeding on it.

Easily confused with: Beech, wild cherry, wych elm

Seed Guide

Hornbeam seeds comprise a heart-shaped nutlet attached to a leafy, three-lobed structure called a bract, which assists wind dispersal. Collect the fruits from the tree after the bracts have turned brown. Stratify the seed, usually for one winter. Select and sow germinating seeds in spring.

Leaves are broad with almost straight bases

EUROPEAN LIME

Rounded fruit is hairy and faintly ribbed

Twigs are similar to European lime, but have short, dense hairs especially near the buds

Leaves appear earlier than other limes

Rounded fruit has five ribs with short hair

Also known as common lime, the origins of this tree are uncertain. It is thought that it may be a hybrid between small-leaved and large-leaved limes. It may have first been planted in the early 17th century, probably from European stock, and is now widely grown in streets, parks and gardens.

The species prefers a moist, loamy alkaline to neutral soil, but will grow on slightly acid soils. Grows poorly on any very dry or very wet soil. Limes tolerate considerable exposure and can be successful in sun or semi-shade.

In summer, honeydew – a sweet, sticky substance excreted by sap-sucking insects

such as aphids – drips like fine rain from this species, making it unpopular as a street tree.

Easily confused with: Small-leaved lime, large-leaved lime

Seed Guide

Lime fruits are an unusual shape. The clusters of round fruits are attached via stalks to a single, leaf-like bract, which assists wind dispersal. Collect the fruits by hand from the tree after the bracts have turned brown, usually following a frost. Stratify the seed for one or two winters. Select and sow germinating seeds in spring.

Leaves are hairy on top and deeply hairy underneath

LARGE-LEAVED LIME

Tilia platyphyllos

The large-leaved lime is a rare tree that grows on the limestone and chalk in the Wye Valley, the Pennines and the South Downs.

Flowering slightly earlier than other limes, this species provides early nectar sources for insects, particularly honey bees. The foliage is palatable to browsing animals, and provides a food source for the caterpillars of many moth species, including the spectacular lime hawkmoth.

The large-leaved lime prefers a moist, loamy alkaline to neutral soil. It grows poorly on any very dry or very wet soil.

As with other limes, the wood of large-leaved

lime resists splitting and so was once used for artificial limbs, wooden clogs and toys. Easily confused with: European lime, small-leaved lime

Seed Guide

Lime fruits are an unusual shape. The clusters of round fruits are attached via stalks to a single, leaf-like bract, which assists wind dispersal. Collect the fruits by hand from the tree after the bracts have turned brown, usually following a frost. Stratify the seeds for one or two winters. Select and sow germinating seeds in spring.

Tilia x europaea

Twigs start green but become dark brown or reddish during summer

Distinctive shiny, reddish buds

more rounded

SMALL-LEAVED LIME

Leaves

the vein junctions

green flowers are held above the leaves

The small-leaved lime is an uncommon, but attractive and long-lived tree. It forms woodlands in Worcestershire and East Anglia, and naturally occurring specimens can be found in woodlands as far north as Cumbria. In Roman times, it was known as ‘the tree of a thousand uses’ and a form of woven rope was made from the under or inner bark (bast). Honey made from lime tree flowers is highly prized across Europe for its complex taste. Small-leaved lime prefers a moist, loamy alkaline to neutral soil, but will grow on slightly acid soils. It grows poorly on any very dry or very wet soil and can tolerate considerable exposure.

It has considerable wildlife value and is a food source for many moths, bees and aphids. Easily confused with: European lime, large-leaved lime

Seed Guide

Lime fruits are an unusual shape. The clusters of round fruits are attached via stalks to a single, leaf-like bract, which assists wind dispersal. Collect the fruits by hand from the tree after the bracts have turned brown, usually following a frost. Stratify the seed for one or two winters. Select and sow germinating seeds in spring.

Conical buds with distinct rufous hairs

Seed is set in the centre of the fruit

Flowers have purplish-red anthers

Rough, hairy leaves have an unequal base and strong teeth around the margin The largest flowers of all elm species appear in clusters of about 25

WYCH ELM

Ulmus glabra

The wych elm is commonly found in hillside woods in Scotland, but is much less common in the south of Britain. It prefers growing on heavy moist clays and loams, but will grow on chalk.

Easily grown in any well-drained soil, wych elm can reach a height of 30m. It is moderately shade-tolerant, wind-resistant and tolerant of maritime exposure.

Like other elms, it has suffered from Dutch elm disease and sadly the population of this sweeping and majestic tree is a much rarer sight these days. Its loss has resulted in a decline of the elusive white-letter hairstreak butterfly, whose

caterpillars rely on elm leaves. More than 100 other species of insect have been recorded on it. Easily confused with: Other elms

Seed Guide

Collect the fruits from the tree, when the wings begin to turn brown in May to June. The fruits can be sown immediately into seed trays. A small percentage will germinate quite quickly, however, many fruits are empty of seed and will never germinate. Keep well watered and shaded in hot weather. Prick out seedlings into final containers. May need to be grown for two years.

Tilia cordata

The fruits are not ribbed or hairy

are dark green with orange tufts of hairs at

Twigs are similar to European lime, but the buds are

Yellowish-

Cones ripen over three years from green to brown, when the seeds are shed

SCOTS PINE

The Scots pine is the only native pine in Britain and is most widespread in Scotland, where there are extensive stands of old trees. It thrives in light, well-drained sandy or gravelly soil. It tolerates chalk, but these trees are usually short lived. The species is also wind resistant and tolerates coastal conditions and some waterlogging. Scots pine provides food for more than 170 invertebrate species, including the pine hawkmoth. In Scotland, it also offers nesting sites for ospreys and Scottish crossbills, and its cones are food for red squirrels, which, in turn, are eaten by the rare pine marten.

Paired needles are usually twisted

Easily confused with: Corsican pine

Seed Guide

Cones can be collected from the lower branches of trees when they have turned from green to brown (October to January). Keep the cones in a bag or on a dish, at room temperature, to air dry them. This causes them to open and release their seeds, which can be sown immediately. Cover with a thin layer of sharp sand, and leave over winter, to germinate the following spring.

Pinus sylvestris

Twigs are greenish to reddish-brown with purplish buds

Fruit starts as a green cone, then enlarges and turns from brown to black after the seeds are shed

Rounded leaves have seven pairs of distinctive white veins underneath

COMMON ALDER

Alder is the only native deciduous tree with cones. It can grow and survive in wet places thanks to its roots, which have nodules that contain nitrogenfixing bacteria, and extract nitrogen from the air.

When the wood of alder is cut it turns redorange. This has led to superstitions that the tree is bleeding, resulting in its association with evil spirits. The tree has a high conservation value as the seeds provide good winter food for redpolls, siskins and other seed-eating birds. More than 280 invertebrate species also feed on alder.

Easily confused with: Birch, hornbeam, lime

Seed Guide

Alder cones can be collected from the lower branches of trees before they open. Place cones in a paper bag and allow to air dry at room temperature. As the cones open, they release small, winged seeds that can be sown immediately. Cover with a thin layer of sharp sand and leave over winter to germinate the following spring.

The alternate leaves have tufts of orange hairs on their underside, at the junctions of the veins

The cones and immature male catkins of both species hang on the tree all winter, making them easy to spot

ITALIAN ALDER GREY ALDER

Alnus incana

Italian alder is a narrow, conical-shaped tree that was introduced from Europe to the UK in the 1820s. It has heart-shaped leaves and distinctive cone-like fruits at the ends of the branches. A useful identification tip is that the ripe, green, male catkins are significantly larger than those on the common alder. Easily confused with: Hazel, wild pear, common alder

Seed Guide

Jagged doubletoothed edges to leaves

Grey alder is a broad, conical-shaped tree that was introduced from Europe to the UK in the late 1700s. This ‘pioneer plant’ is able to grow fast and well in poor soils due to its ability to fix nitrogen. Female flowers are small and inconspicuous. Once pollinated, they become small cones in the autumn. More prominent male catkins produce pollen, which is dispersed by wind in early spring. Easily confused with: Hornbeam

Alder cones can be collected from the lower branches of trees before they open. Place cones in a paper bag and allow to air dry at room temperature. As the cones open, they release small, winged seeds that can be sown immediately. Cover with a thin layer of sharp sand and leave over winter to germinate the following spring.

For the calendar, see common alder (left)

Alnus glutinosa

Alnus cordata

SILVER BIRCH

The twigs are shiny, red-brown and often warty

Smaller female catkins are upright

Reddish-brown twigs have densely packed hairs towards their tips – hence the name ‘downy’

DOWNY BIRCH

The native silver birch has striking white bark and is most widespread in the south and east of Britain. It prefers drier conditions than downy birch and grows best on light, dry soils. It is often planted in gardens and parks.

The strong white wood was used for flooring and the bark for paper and roofing.

A mature birch can produce up to one million seeds in a season. The tree has a high conservation value as it provides food and shelter for a wide range of birds, including redpolls and siskins. Easily confused with: Downy birch. Hybrids of downy and silver birch are common.

Seed Guide

Female birch catkins look like small cones. They contain the seeds, which can be collected when brown from the lower branches of trees on dry days. Strip off seeds by running your fingers tightly down the catkin, or by placing the catkins in a paper bag to dry at room temperature. Ripe catkins will then disintegrate, leaving a mix of tiny, winged seeds and fleur-de-lys shaped bracts. Don’t bother trying to separate them! Seeds can be sown immediately and should be covered with a thin layer of sharp sand, and left over winter until they germinate the following spring.

Leaves have hairy stalks and triangular bases

Yellowish-brown male catkins and upright female flowers, similar to silver birch

*Height>20cm,

The native downy birch prefers wetter conditions than silver birch and is most widespread on poorly drained soils in the north and west of Britain. Its bark is often darker than the silver birch, particularly at its base.

Downy birch is excellent for wildlife, and provides food for birds including black grouse. At least 520 invertebrate species have been recorded in birch trees.

Easily confused with: Silver birch. Hybrids of downy and silver birch are common.

Seed Guide

Female birch catkins look like small cones. They contain the seeds, which can be collected when brown from the lower branches of trees on dry days. Strip off seeds by running your fingers tightly down the catkin, or by placing the catkins in a paper bag to dry at room temperature. Ripe catkins will then disintegrate, leaving a mix of tiny, winged seeds and fleur-de-lys shaped bracts. Don’t bother trying to separate them! Seeds can be sown immediately and should be covered with a thin layer of sharp sand, and left over winter until they germinate the following spring.

*Height>20cm,

Betula pendula

The fruiting catkins stay on the tree until winter

Yellowish male catkins hang at the ends of branches

Triangular leaves on slender hairless stalks

Betula pubescens

MONKEY PUZZLE

The monkey puzzle is a tall, evergreen tree. A native of Chile, it was introduced into Britain by Archibald Menzies in 1795, who took seeds “from the dessert table of the Governor” that he later planted, bringing the seedlings back to Britain.

Unfortunately, a large percentage of the native forests in Chile have been destroyed due to logging, fire and grazing. As a result, the tree was declared a Natural Monument in Chile, meaning that logging is now forbidden.

The tree prefers a deep, well-drained soil, dislikes atmospheric pollution, but will tolerate coastal conditions.

Seed Guide

Collect ripe seeds from the ground. Separate out the largest seeds and lay them singly in pots, with their thick end in the centre. Cover with soil. They will germinate best in a frame or cold greenhouse, where they can be protected from mice and frost.

The young plants should not remain in pots more than a year or two as the tap-root needs room to grow. However, because they can be damaged by frost, ideally the young trees should not be permanently planted out until they are at least 50cm tall.

The needles are light green, short and prickly

The long, cigar-shaped cones contain small seeds

NORWAY SPRUCE

Norway spruce is a native of Europe and was introduced into Britain in 1500. It is mentioned by Turner in his book, Names of Herbes, in 1548. Before the last Ice Age, Norway spruce would probably have grown in Britain, but it was one of those species that never recolonised naturally after the ice retreated.

The species was originally planted for its ornamental value, but 19th century foresters realised the tree had commercial uses, recommending it for spars and masts for ships, scaffolding poles and ladders. As a result, the tree began to be planted widely in forestry plantations.

It is also widely planted as an ornamental tree in parks and gardens.

Seed Guide

Collect the cones from the trees when they have turned from green to brown, usually in October. Keep the cones in a bag or on a dish at room temperature to air dry them. This causes them to open and release their seeds. Keep the seeds in paper bags until February. Then sow the seeds in pots, covering them with a thin layer of sharp sand, where they should germinate in the spring.

Araucaria araucana

The male flowers are held above the branches

The leaves are spiky and triangular and are closely arranged around the branches

The female flowers become spiny, dark brown cones

Picea abies

The

CEDAR OF LEBANON

The single needles are dark green and in rosettes

Single needles are green and soft

Needles occur as rosettes on older branches

This large ornamental tree is a native of the mountains of the Mediterranean region. The species was probably first brought to Britain as seed by Dr Edward Pococke, a scholar of Arabic at Oxford University, who made several journeys to Syria in 1638–1639.

This beautiful evergreen conifer can frequently be found in the grounds of Georgian manor houses around the country, as it needs considerable space to grow. Its distinctive profile has flat-topped branches, on top of which sit the tree’s cones. These solitary cones are slightly flattened on the top, and contain brown, roughly triangular seeds.

Requiring warm, deep, well-drained soils, cedar of Lebanon grows best in the south and east of the country.

Easily confused with: Deodar, a tall conical cedar

Seed Guide

Collect the cones from the tree when they have turned from green to brown. Keep the cones in a bag or on a dish at room temperature to air dry. This causes them to disintegrate and release their seeds, which can be sown immediately. Cover with a thin layer of sharp sand and leave over winter to germinate the following spring.

EUROPEAN LARCH

This large, deciduous conifer is a native of upland areas in the Alps, Russia and Poland. It was introduced to Britain in the early 17th century, where it was grown as an ornamental tree until it was taken to Scotland.

Unlike most conifers, larch is deciduous, shedding its leaves each winter and putting out fresh green needles every spring.

The small, egg-shaped cones occur all around the branches and remain throughout the winter. The seeds are important for birds, such as redpolls and siskins. In Scotland, the buds and cones are food for the capercaillie.

Seed Guide

Cones can be collected from the tree when they have turned from green to brown in October to January. The cones persist on the tree for years, and care must be taken not to collect old, spent cones. Larch seeds often contain a significant proportion of filled, but woody and therefore dead, seeds. Keep the cones in a bag or on a dish at room temperature to air dry them. This causes them to release their seeds, which can be sown immediately. Cover with a thin layer of sharp sand and leave over winter to germinate the following spring or after two years.

Cedrus libani

large, winged seeds are contained within the cones

Larix decidua

Female seed cones are small and egg-shaped

Male cones have yellow pollen

The leaves consist of three-lobed leaflets, rather like a clover leaf

LABURNUM

Laburnum anagyroides

Highly poisonous black seeds develop in a pod

A small deciduous tree or large shrub, laburnum is in the same botanical order as the pea family, which explains its yellow, hanging, ‘pea-like’ flowers. Introduced to Britain in 1596 by famous gardener and plant collector Tradescant, this tree can now be found throughout the UK. It requires a sunny position and grows well on most soils, including sandy, as long as they are not overly dry. Unfortunately, its seeds are poisonous and contain a highly toxic alkaloid. The heartwood gets darker when exposed to light, becoming chocolate brown. This rich colour, combined with its wide use by cabinetmakers, made laburnum in

1812 ‘the most valuable timber grown in Scotland’.

Seed Guide

The brown seed pods are about 5cm long, and split to reveal small, black, poisonous seeds. Collect the ripe pods in September to October before they split open. In March, puncture the hard, waterimpermeable seed coat with a file or knife without damaging the embryo within. Alternatively, cover the seeds in about five times their volume of boiling water and allow to cool for 12 hours. Sow chipped or swollen seeds in an outdoor seedbed in March or April.

Laburnum

Yellow, pea-like flowers grow in long, hanging clusters

Bright pink, ‘pea-like’ flowers in clusters

JUDAS TREE

Cercis siliquastrum

A native of south-eastern Europe and western Asia, this beautiful, small, deciduous tree was introduced to Britain in 1596 by the herbalist John Gerard.

Judas tree produces large numbers of bright pink, ‘pea-like’ flowers during early summer, some even arising straight out of the bark of the trunk. They are pollinated by bees and being a member of the pea family, the seed pods are ‘pea’ shaped and hang vertically.

Preferring well-drained soils, this tree dislikes wet soils. It prefers sunny places, disliking shade. The leaves turn an attractive yellow-brown colour

The large, heart-shaped leaves have wavy edges

Beautiful, white, trumpet-like flowers grow in clusters

The 10cm-long, brown seed pods contain flat, elliptical seeds

The flat, light brown seeds with papery wings occur in long, ‘bean like’ pods

in autumn. Unfortunately, Judas tree can be prone to a number of diseases, particularly coral spot and cankers.

Seed Guide

Collect the ripe seeds pods from the tree from September onwards. Separate the pods from the seeds, and sow the seeds immediately into pots or a seed bed.

Alternatively, store the seeds in a paper bag and sow in early spring. Leave it to grow until October the following year, then plant in November year 2.

INDIAN BEAN TREE

The large, opposite leaves are oval with a pointed end

This medium-sized deciduous tree is a native of Georgia and Florida, in the eastern United States.

It was introduced into Britain in 1726 by Mark Catesby, who first described the tree in his book ‘Natural History of Carolina, Florida and the Bahama Islands’. The large, heart-shaped leaves are late to emerge, often not occurring until May.

Oddly for leaves, they secrete nectar and give off a disagreeable smell when crushed.

The tree’s beautiful flowers are white and trumpet-shaped, with yellow spots inside, growing in clusters of 20 to 40 heads. The seeds,

for which the tree is named, occur in long, thin, beanlike pods and are flat and light brown, with papery wings.

Seed Guide

In Britain, unfortunately, the fruit rarely ripens, so generally the tree is propagated by both softwood and root cuttings. In late spring to early summer, before the leaves are fully developed, take 10cm-long softwood cuttings, and put in a frame to grow.

*Height>20cm, Root collar>5mm

Catalpa bignonioides

Leaves are alternate and are composed of 14 to 28 leaflets

Inconspicuous spikes of greenish flowers

HONEY LOCUST

This deciduous tree is a native to the northern and eastern United States. It was first grown in Britain – in Fulham, London – during the latter half of the 17th century. The stem and branches have sharp spines and the seed pods are long and bean shaped. The bark has deep cracks and fissures.

The leaves turn a deep gold colour in autumn, making the honey locust a good ornamental tree for parks and large gardens.

This tree tolerates pollution, heat, drought and saline conditions. This ability, combined with its ease of transplantation, have made this a good urban tree.

Seed Guide

Collect the seeds from the tree or the ground in September, when the pods are red-brown and ripe. Put the pods in a paper bag at room temperature to air dry them. This causes them to release their seeds, which should be kept in paper bags. In March, puncture the hard, waterimpermeable seed-coat with a file or knife, without damaging the embryo within.

Alternatively, cover the seeds in about five times their volume of boiling water and allow to cool for 12 hours. Sow chipped or swollen seeds in an outdoor seedbed in March or April.

The leaves are composed of 11 to 15 leaflets

The brown or black pea-like pods contain small, black seeds

FALSE ACACIA

Another medium-sized deciduous tree of the pea family, false acacia is a native of the east coast of the United States and was introduced into Britain some time in the 17th century. A fast-growing tree, it can begin flowering after just six years.

The white, pea-like flowers hang in scented clusters towards the ends of the branches. The flowers are fragrant and regularly visited by bees.

The small, black, kidney-shaped seeds are in found in brown pods, which can be seen hanging on the tree all winter. False acacia grows well in any well-drained soil, tolerating drought and atmospheric pollution.

Seed Guide

Collect the seed pods from the tree throughout the winter. Split the seeds from the seed pods and store them in a paper bag for the winter. In March, puncture the hard, water-impermeable seed coat with a file or knife, being careful not to damage the embryo within.

Alternatively, cover the seeds in about five times their volume of boiling water and allow to cool for 12 hours. Sow chipped or swollen seeds in an outdoor seedbed in March or April.

Gleditsia triacanthos

The brown pods contain bean-like seeds

Robinia pseudoacacia

White, ‘pea-like’ flowers in hanging, scented clusters

PAGODA TREE

Despite the name japonica, this large deciduous tree is only found naturally in China. It was introduced to Britain in 1753 by James Gordon, a celebrated nurseryman at Mile End, London.

Another member of the pea family, this tree has white or yellow flowers that grow in large groups at the end of the branches. In Britain, the trees can take up to 40 years before they first flower.

The seed pods, when they are produced, are long and contain one to five kidney-shaped, dark brown seeds.

The tree prefers well-drained, sandy, loamy or heavy clay soils, but cannot grow in the shade.

Seed Guide

Collect the ripe seed pods from the tree before the pods burst. Store for the winter in a paper bag. In March, puncture the hard, water-impermeable seed coat with a file or knife, being careful not to damage the embryo within.

Alternatively, cover the seeds in about five times their volume of boiling water and allow to cool for 12 hours. Sow chipped or swollen seeds in an outdoor seedbed in March or April.

Sophora japonica

Long, pinnate leaves with up to 15 leaflet pairs

The long, pea-like fruits contain brownyellow seeds

White or yellowish flowers grow in clusters at the end of branches

Pagoda tree

There are 19 species of willow that are native to Britain. They are a difficult group of trees to separate, because they can all breed with each other and create hybrids. On these two pages are some of the more common willow species. They are not usually grown from seed, but from cuttings.

Seed is attached to a white ‘fluff’ that aids with wind dispersal

WHITE WILLOW

This deciduous, native tree has upright, ascending branches. Like many willows, this species grows quickly, and the name ‘white willow’ comes from the fact that the young leaves are covered with whitish silky hairs on both surfaces. These appear only on the lower surface as the leaf gets older. The flowers appear at the same time as the leaves and, when fertilised, comprise numerous small capsules. These contain tiny seeds

surrounded by white ‘down’, which aids seed dispersal in the wind.

White willow is probably only suitable for large gardens, but is a good species for river edges and wet woodlands. It is the preferred wood used in the production of cricket bats, as it offers the strength and compression needed for a bat.

For Seed Guide and calendars, see page 118

White willow

Long, pointed, alternate leaves with downy white hairs

Salix alba

Broad leaves are up to 9cm long. They usually have a hairy underside, with grey or rust red hairs

GREY WILLOW

Broad, glossy leaves up to 12cm long and 8cm wide

This many-branched shrub or small tree has two main subspecies – grey sallow and rusty sallow. This species is the commonest British willow, being found throughout the country.

Tiny, fluffy seeds follow fertilisation of the female flowers

WILLOW

Leaves have soft, white downy hairs on the underside

This is the familiar ‘pussy willow’ that grows across Britain. It is most obvious each year when it produces golden-yellow catkins, which are often used to decorate churches on Palm Sunday.

Leaves are long, narrow and taper towards the tip (lanceolate)

They have silky, white hairy undersides and no teeth around the edge

OSIER WILLOW

The osier is the shrub that is grown widely in damp places to produce ‘withies’, long pliant stems that are ideal for basket making, chair seats, fish traps and other uses.

Leaves are generally hairless

Tiny, fluffy seeds follow fertilisation of the female flowers

CRACK WILLOW

The crack willow is the willow usually seen on riverbanks, where it is often pollarded. These pollarded trees are cut to produce crops of poles used for fencing and basket making.

Salix cinerea

Salix caprea GOAT

Salix fragilis

Salix viminalis

Delicate, narrow, light green leaves turn a beautiful shade of yellow in autumn

WEEPING WILLOW

The weeping willow, with arching branches of golden-green leaves sweeping to the ground, is a striking large tree often found in moist areas of large parks and gardens.

Seed Guide for all willows

All willows are easy to grow from cuttings, so they are not often grown from seed. It is possible, though seeds must be sown as soon as ripe in spring, as they begin to blow from the tree. Unfortunately, willow seeds have an extremely short period of viability and must be sown on the surface of a pot or seedbed within a few days of ripening. Cover with a thin layer of soil and keep well watered.

Small seed capsules contain 10–20 seeds and are attached to white ‘fluff’, which aids wind dispersal

Small, round leaves have a wavy margin

Male catkins have purple-brown anthers; in female flowers the stigmas are reddish

Greyish, windpollinated catkins are densely hairy

ASPEN

Populus tremula

A native species of poplar, aspen is found throughout Britain, being most common in Scotland. It is at home in the Highlands, where it often grows side by side with Scots pine and birch. The leaf stalk (petiole) is flattened, which causes the leaves to tremble in the wind (hence its Latin name tremula), producing a beautiful sound similar to the crash of waves on a beach. The leaves turn a bright, butter-yellow shade in the autumn.

Individual trees seldom survive for more than a century. However, aspen has a highly successful method of regenerating through

suckers, which emerge from the extensive root system surrounding the ‘mother’ tree in an everextending ring of clonal shoots.

This tree tolerates heavy, cold damp soil, but prefers a deep, rich, well-drained soil.

Seed Guide for all poplars

Usually grown from cuttings. However, aspen and other poplars can be grown from seed, but the seed is only viable if sown within a few days of ripening in the spring. Sow the seed on the surface of a pot or seedbed, and cover with a thin layer of soil.

Salix babylonica

May have oval ‘white leaves’ with thick, greyish hairs, or rounder ‘green leaves’ with only a few scattered grey hairs

Maple-like leaves have five lobes and a thick covering of white hairs on both surfaces

GREY POPLAR WHITE POPLAR

Populus x canescens

BLACK POPLAR

May have large, diamond-shaped or triangular leaves, depending on the variety

Populus alba

This hybrid between aspen and white poplar flourishes on damp ground such as water meadows and river valleys. Many large specimens can be found in Hampshire and Dorset. Often mistaken for white poplar, the differences lie in the grey poplar’s sturdy trunk and its darker foliage. It is usually propagated from leafy, summer cuttings.

The white poplar is an introduced tree from southern Europe. It is found growing as shelter belts on river banks and is also used to stabilise sand dunes. The greyish-white bark is marked by distinct, diamond-shaped black pores. Young twigs are covered in white hairs that last for two years. The female catkins develop into fluffy, cotton-like seeds, which fall in late summer.

Populus nigra

These large trees have deeply furrowed bark, and often large burrs. They prefer wet edges and stream sides over woods. Country people relied on this tree for fuel-wood, shelter and low-grade timber when

no other was available. A beautiful but nationally rare form of black poplar is Populus nigra betulifolia Usually grown from cuttings as there are so few female trees and hence little seed.

HOW TO AVOID PESTS AND DISEASES

Increasing numbers of pests and diseases are impacting the UK’s trees, so it’s important to know the symptoms to look for and stay vigilant

When young trees are growing in their pots, root trainers or seedbeds, they can be affected by pests and diseases. Many of these can be avoided by adopting good biosecurity and growing techniques outlined here.

GROWING TECHNIQUES

Good soil management

Ensure any organic matter you add to your soil is good quality. To reduce the risk of pathogens in the compost you use, it should have been ‘hot composted’ (a method of making compost quickly at high temperatures) or well composted if using traditional ‘cold’ home-composting methods (which can take six months to two years). If your compost is purchased, look for a reputable supplier with certification such as PAS 100 (a quality standard that stands for ‘Publicly Available Specification for Composted Materials’).

Spacing

Do not overcrowd a space. Allow good air flow around your seedlings and saplings.

Watering

Do not over water. If using a water bath (a container of water in which you soak your saplings’ roots), change the water regularly

and ideally use fresh rainwater. Conduct annual tests on any standing water to detect parasitic, fungus-like microorganisms, such as Phytophthora, which causes root and stem-base decay in plants.

Location

Grow different tree species in separate beds or in pots separated by a gap of one to two metres. Avoid growing the same species in the same place each year to reduce the risk of diseases building up in the soil and reinfecting new trees.

PROTECTION

Nets

Use horticultural fine-mesh netting to protect growing trees against frost and sun scorch, as well as birds and insects including butterflies, whose caterpillars can quickly defoliate trees.

Fences

Fence your tree nursery to keep out hungry deer and rabbits, which love young leaves.

Foot dips

Use shoe dips containing a disinfectant to help minimise the transfer of soil-borne diseases, particularly at tree nurseries.

Dutch elm disease is one of the world’s most serious tree diseases. It is caused by a fungus that invades and blocks the water-conducting systems of trees, causing wilting and ultimately death

Quarantine

Check plants coming into your nursery for signs of pests and diseases. Ideally, you should quarantine them for the first few months.

Know the enemy

Learn about common pests and diseases in young trees, so you know the signs to spot. We’ve provided a list on page 94 to help you get started. Some tree pests and diseases are notifiable, which means they must be reported to plant health authorities. We’ve added some helpful contact details in the box, right.

Monitor your local environment

Keep an eye on mature trees and shrubs in the local area close to your growing location –do they look healthy?

WHO TO CONTACT ABOUT PLANT HEALTH

n In England and Wales contact your local office of APHA’s Plant Health and Seeds Inspectorate or their headquarters in York. Phone 0300 1000 313, email planthealth.info@apha.gov.uk or visit www.gov.uk/plant-health-controls

n In Scotland contact the Scottish Government’s Horticulture and Marketing Unit. Phone 0131 244 8923, email hort.marketing@gov.scot or visit www.gov.scot/PlantHealth/PlantDiseases

n In Northern Ireland, contact the DAERA Plant Health Inspection Branch. Phone 0300 200 7847, email planthealth@daera-ni.gov.uk or visit daera-ni.gov.uk/topics/plant-and-tree-health/ about-plant-and-tree-health

TREE PESTS AND DISEASES

This information was correct at the time of printing (2022), but it’s important to check Defra’s plant health portal for updates: planthealthportal.defra.gov.uk

DISEASE APPEARANCE PRINCIPAL AFFECTED TREE SPECIES

ASH DIEBACK

Hymenoscyphus fraxineus

POWDERY MILDEW

Erysiphe alphitoides

OAK PROCESSIONARY MOTH

Thaumetopoea processionea

TAR SPOT

Rhytisma acerinum

HORSE CHESTNUT LEAF MINER MOTH

Cameraria

ohridella

HORSE CHESTNUT LEAF BLOTCH

Guignardia aesculi

If you suspect a notifiable pest or disease, report it to TreeAlert online at treealert.forestresearch.

gov.uk

CHESTNUT BLIGHT

Cryphonectria

parasitica

MAIN SYMPTOMS

Ash Fraxinus excelsior

English oak

Quercus robur

Sessile oak Quercus petraea

Blackening and wilting of leaves and shoots (mid to late summer). Elongated diamond-shaped stem lesions

Leaves become covered in a felty, white mycelium, causing them to shrivel and blacken.

A health risk to humans, hairs can cause rashes and breathing difficulties.

Sycamore Acer pseudoplatanus

RECOMMENDATIONS

RAMORUM DISEASE

Phytophthora ramorum

Report suspected sightings using TreeAlert in areas where the disease has not been recorded.

Maintain good nursery hygiene practices, prevent build-up of leaf litter in growing area. Water regularly and position trees in well-ventilated areas.

A notifiable pest. Report suspected sightings to plant health authorities using TreeAlert.

A fungal infection that causes black, circular spots on the leaf surface.

This insect infests the leaflets, causing damage as it burrows through the leaves.

Horse chestnut

Aesculus hippocastanum

Sweet chestnut

Castanea sativa

Stem cankers and foliage dies back.

A notifiable disease. Report suspected sightings to plant health authorities using TreeAlert.

Sweet chestnut

Castanea sativa

Larches

Larix spp

Beech

Fagus sylvatica

PHYTOPHTHORA DISEASE

Phytophthora alni

RED BAND NEEDLE BLIGHT

Dothistroma

septosporum

BIRCH RUST

Melampsoridium betulinum

Common alder

Alnus glutinosa

Wilting leaves, discoloured foliage, stem lesions (bleeding cankers), branch dieback.

Causes small yellow leaves, stem bleeding, and dead twigs in crowns.

Scots pine

Pinus sylvestris

A notifiable disease. Report suspected sightings to plant health authorities using TreeAlert.

Ensure good biosecurity practices in nurseries to prevent infection.

Needles develop yellow tan spots and bands leading to defoliation.

If suspected in a tree nursery, report to plant health authorities using TreeAlert.

Maintain good nursery hygiene practices, prevent build-up of leaf litter in nursery growing area.

Maintain good nursery hygiene practices, prevent build-up of leaf litter in nursery growing area. Check foliage and clothing to ensure they are free from adult moths.

Reddish or dull brown irregular blotches on leaflets.

Maintain good nursery hygiene practices, prevent build-up of leaf litter in nursery growing area.

DUTCH ELM DISEASE

Ophiostoma novo-ulmi

XYLELLA

Xylella fastidiosa

Silver birch

Betula pendula

Downy birch

Betula pubescens

Leaves can develop yellow discolouration and brown/ black spots. Leaves are shed prematurely.

Elms

Ulmus spp

Ophiostoma novoulmi is a fungus that is spread between trees by elm bark beetles.

Look for yellow, wilting leaves in the crown.

Wide range of host trees including maple, elm, elder, oak, holly and particularly olive

Symptoms range from leaf scorch and browning to dieback and death.

Maintain good nursery hygiene practices, prevent build-up of leaf litter in nursery growing area.

Maintain good nursery hygiene practices.

A notifiable disease not yet present in UK. Report suspected sightings to plant health authorities using TreeAlert.

HOW TO AVOID DAMPING OFF

HOW TO AVOID DAMPING OFF

Learning how to prevent the conditions of damping off – the sudden death of seedlings – will help keep your young trees happy and healthy

Damping off is a condition in horticulture where very young seedlings weaken and die off, despite having germinated and even grown well at first.

The vulnerable stems and roots of young seedlings can be damaged by a variety of soilborne fungi (and other organisms), which thrive in the damp conditions suited to germination. Seedlings will often die off in clumps or patches, or even entire trays, and have rotten and/or wilted stems and roots and discoloured foliage.

It is often possible to see fluffy moulds growing around and over the plants. Damping off can be a particular problem for indoor germination, and can be a big disappointment after several seasons of anticipation.

Unfortunately, there’s usually little hope of saving affected seedlings, so effective prevention is better than cure. Strategies involve:

n Eliminating the potentially harmful fungi and organisms from the soil before you start planting seedlings. This can be achieved by using commercially produced compost, which has usually been made in conditions hot enough to destroy potentially harmful pathogens. Home hot-composting can also be helpful.

n Maintaining good hygiene by thoroughly cleaning and drying utensils and trays.

n Reducing the risk of introducing pathogens by using clean and fresh water. This can be rainwater if the water butt is regularly cleaned and has a lid.

n Ensuring good ventilation to minimise the growth of any pathogens lurking in the soil.

The RHS website has more useful information about damping off. Visit www.rhs.org.uk and search for ‘damping off’.

FIND OUT MORE ABOUT TREE DISEASES

There are several excellent sources of information about pests and diseases that affect trees in the UK. We recommend searching for ‘pests and diseases’ on the Forest Research and Observatree websites.

Every tree grower should also read Diagnosis of ill health in trees by R.G. Strouts and T.G. Winter, published by the Arboricultural Association, ISBN 9780900978586.

Report your sightings to TreeAlert TreeAlert is an online tool developed by Forest Research to allow the quick reporting of tree pests and diseases that are of concern in Britain. To submit a report online, visit treealert.forestresearch.gov.uk

HOW TO START A COMMUNITY TREE NURSERY

Our expert advice will help you set up and run a successful Community Tree Nursery, and ensure that when your trees are planted out, they enhance the landscape. Happy growing!

ACommunity Tree Nursery is when people come together to gather local tree seeds, plant them and care for them until they become young trees. It could be just a couple of people or a whole group. When the young trees are ready, the same people may also plant them or they may instead pass them on to others in their community to plant.

schools, your local tree wardens and local authority tree officers and others can help you find a useful and sustainable outlet for the trees you want to grow. Growing trees can be a great opportunity to connect with others in your community – providing new trees or replacing ones that have been lost can bring you together.

Something for everyone

After you’ve successfully grown trees at home, setting up a Community Tree Nursery is a great next step. It can be run at different scales, levels of complexity to suit a local situation or reflect the people involved. A nursery can be:

n A collective of growers, growing seeds in their gardens for a shared purpose.

WHAT IS A COMMUNITY TREE NURSERY?

WHAT IS A COMMUNITY TREE NURSERY?

Growing small quantities of trees is straightforward and can be done with little horticultural experience as long as you have time and enthusiasm.

The newly grown trees can be used to create woodlands, hedgerows, orchards, or single trees in rural or urban areas. They might be planted in a local park, school grounds, on private farmland, in community or domestic gardens, or in private or community spaces. You’ll need permission from whoever owns the land, of course. Before you start gathering seeds, you need to know where your trees are going to be planted, to make sure you choose tree species that are suitable for the space. Being clear on why you want to grow trees and where you will put them, and choosing the right trees for the right place, will guide you on the growing methods you’ll need, how many trees you need to grow and what help and resources you may need along the way.

Working together

A great way to start is to find out if there’s someone already doing ‘tree things’ in your area. Maybe local conservation charities or community projects are actively growing trees. Ask yourself if you need to start up a new Community Tree Nursery or if you could support an existing one. Working with parish and town councils,

n A community working together in response to local climate or environmental issues.

n A group specialising in growing specific species or locally rare varieties that aren’t commonly available.

n A school or youth group growing trees for an outdoor space that they will tend to and nurture.

n A social group for anyone who may benefit from horticultural therapy.

There is no single right way to run a Community Tree Nursery. As long as your activities are compliant with the law, the scale and approaches you can take to growing trees are as varied as the trees themselves. Your aim should be to enjoy the process and hopefully share the experience with family, friends and your community.

HOW TO FIND A SITE FOR YOUR NURSERY

When looking for somewhere to start your tree nursery, there are many factors to consider. No site will be perfect so potential sites should be visited.

tree nursery can be a space in your back garden, it could be an allotment site, or a corner of a farmer’s field. There is often land available that is not being used and so it’s worth asking your local authority, parish council, local tree warden or other groups using outdoor spaces if they’re aware of any potential sites. No site will be perfect, so expect to have to compromise, but here are some of the most important selection criteria:

Soil is particularly important if you’re not using containers to grow trees see page 140. It is easier to grow trees directly in open ground and requires the least expenditure. A deep loam is ideal but even heavy clay or sandy soils can be re-worked to improve fertility, drainage or water retention.

Elevation and aspect will influence growth and practicalities. If the site is at a high altitude, you should expect slower growth. If it’s on an open, sunny, south-facing slope, shade netting will be crucial. Exposure to wind, frost and heavy shade can also be a problem. Steep slopes are hard to work on: to get machinery onto and to erect polytunnels, for example.

Water is essential. Using mains water is not ideal, and can be expensive. Harvesting rainwater requires impervious surfaces and channels to collect run-off, such as rooftops with drainpipes. Not all sites will have this option, if there are no buildings nearby. Small tree nurseries are unlikely to get a boreholes license, and this is not a sustainable source of water. Open water such as a large pond can work, but be careful of water-borne plant diseases, such as Phytophthora. A simple irrigation system is best and will save a lot of time.

Size will define how many trees you can grow.

n For container production, you will grow approximately 130-240 plants per square metre.

n For bare-root production, you will grow approximately 40-80 plants per square metre.

Storage is important, as you’ll need a secure space for your plant pots, tools, seed, as well as somewhere to work in inclement weather.

Access is something to consider, especially when taking delivery of compost, bulky materials or transporting your trees to customers.

It may be hard to find the perfect site for your tree nursery, but word of mouth can help.

HOW TO LAY OUT YOUR TREE NURSERY

Water baths for wet-loving species

Solar panel array for lighting and power, including irrigation

Single pitch timber building provides secure storage and covered workspace. Rainwater is harvested from roof and caught in large containers plumbed in series behind the building, which provide water for irrigation.

Bare-root beds with shade netting

Stratification troughs for breaking seed dormancy

Small polytunnel for storage of dry materials

This is an aerial showing the layout of a Moor Trees Community Tree Nursery in Devon, which grows approximately 30,000 trees: 15,000 are under oneyear-old, and 15,000 are aged one to two or two to three years old.

Raised tables to place root trainers on. Wire mesh caging protects trees from squirrels. Netting provides shade.

Compost heap and space for deliveries

and cleaning

Perimeter is fenced to prevent damage by deer and rabbits

Office / tea hut

Polytunnel

Hand wash

station with mains water

Gated entrance

Access road

Plant quarantine area

TOOLS AND MATERIALS

Any job is made easier when you have the right tools. So here’s a list of all the things you may require. Bear in mind, not all of this will be needed – it depends on how you’re growing your trees and where.

SEED COLLECTION

Buckets – or similar re-used containers such as large yoghurt pots, ice cream tubs or old plastic paint tubs. Make sure they’re thoroughly cleaned.

First aid kit – useful if visiting remote sites. Gloves - thick and/or leather for protection against thorny plants.

Hooked walking stick – or hooked pole for bending down branches to reach seeds.

Labels – weatherproof and UV resistant. You’ll also need a permanent pen or marker.

Open-weave sacks – polythene or hessian for larger seeds and nuts.

Paper bags – for smaller seeds (birch/alder).

Plastic bags – useful for temporary storage while collecting.

Polythene sacks useful for berries and winged seeds.

Pruners are especially useful.

Rakes of seeds (beech mast, acorns, etc).

Shovels (beech mast, acorns, etc).

SEED PROCESSING

Buckets - to clean and float off seeds.

Food mixer or processor – food mill.

Grating blocks – (stone, mesh on wooden blocks).

Hose – with coarse and fine spray heads, and a high-pressure nozzle for separating pulp and seeds.

Mesh sieves – of various gauges.

Pestle or other blunt-ended implement or potato masher for de-pulping.

Sharp knife – for removing crab apple seeds.

STRATIFICATION

PROPAGATION

OUTDOOR – GROUND PREPARATION

For planting outdoors, you may also need these tools:

Azada or Spanish hoe - ground preparation.

Knapsack sprayer - for applying feed to foliage.

Large labels and signs – weatherproof and UV resistant for beds and rows.

Lines - marking rows and beds.

Roller - for firming soil or compost.

Buckets and tubs – with holes for drainage and aeration.

Compost – coir, sand and grit to mix in.

Fridge – with a temperature of 1-5oC.

Plastic ziplock bags or storage containers.

Protection from animals, if outside.

Warm cupboard or room at 20oC.

PROPAGATION

INDOOR – CONTAINER GROWN

Compost scoop

Dibber

Fork

Labels

Plug trays

Pots

Root-trainer cells

Stepladder – so you can climb up and pick seeds by hand, rather than needing to use long-handled pruners. Hand picking minimises seed damage.

Tarpaulins or nets - for large-scale collection from taller trees.

Soak trays –for emergency rehydration of driedout trays and cells.

Spade

Trowel

Watering cans with roses

Rotovator - ground preparation.

Row marker – similar to a rake, but draws out lines in the soil.

OUTDOOR – BED PROTECTION

Cloches – small, clear covers for protecting outdoor plants, such as a cut-off water bottle.

Net mesh – shading, frost and pest protection.

MARKETING AND SALES

Delivery vehicle

Despatch and packaging supplies

Labels – including species, provenance, master certificate and supplier notice.

HOW TO GET GROWING

Once your seeds are growing, you want your seedlings to develop into strong, healthy trees that are ready to plant. This section offers some expert hints and tips to give your trees the best start.

CONTAINERS OR BARE ROOTS?

One of your first choices when setting up a tree nursery is whether to grow your trees directly in the earth (known as ‘bare-root stock’) or in containers (‘cells’), such as plant pots or root trainers (known as ‘cellular stock’).

Growing trees in containers gives you greater control over how they grow. Using a system such as root trainers makes more efficient use of space than using open ground. It also allows you to produce more plants in the same size area.

Once your trees leave the nursery, those grown in cells can be left longer before planting out without being damaged. They can also be planted later in the year than bare-root trees.

When growing commercially, cell-grown trees tend to cost slightly more than bare-root ones. However, it’s important to be aware that

plants grown in containers are in an artificial environment and so they depend on good husbandry to grow successfully. They can also be more susceptible to the negative effects of extreme weather events, such as periods of very dry, hot weather, and very cold, wet conditions.

By comparison, bare-root trees grown in open ground (nursery beds, for example) can be more naturally resilient than those grown in containers. This is because they have access to natural soil moisture and more stable temperature conditions.

When growing bare-root stock in open ground and re-using the same area, it’s sensible to rotate between different tree species, as shown in the diagram above. This helps to prevent host-specific pests and disease from building up in the soil.

UNGERMINATED ‘FAILURES’

Do not throw away ungerminated seed, it may just be being stubborn. Try leaving this seed in the ground or in pots and keep an eye on it. It may take as long as two or three years to germinate.

STRATIFICATION AND GERMINATION

On page 16, we described how to collect seeds to grow a small number of trees. But when setting up a larger nursery, you’ll need to stratify and germinate your seeds at scale. When stratifying lots of seed, it’s worth considering using something like an old bathtub, or a large feed trough. In each bathtub or trough, many thousands of seeds can be placed and left, allowing the elements to do the work for you. Seeds can be placed in these spaces even without processing, but germination can take much longer, perhaps up to three years.

Temperature and timing

Remember that temperature has a major influence on the germination of your seeds. For deeply dormant species (see How to stratify seeds for germination), a higher percentage will germinate at low temperatures of 10–15oC. Higher temperatures of 20oC and above will reduce germination of most deeply dormant

seeds and can make the seeds go into a deeper dormancy, which is harder to break.

Other species require even colder periods. In the UK, winters are becoming milder, which is why placing the seeds in a fridge for some time can assist germination.

Many dormant tree seeds need daily temperature fluctuations to kick start their germination, and a constant temperature will not always work for them.

Remember to protect your stratifying seeds from excessive cold, heat and damp, as well as any pests that might find them a tasty nibble!

The Forestry Commission provides lots of useful information on seed storage and dormancy to help you understand how best to stratify your seeds. Read Raising trees and shrubs from seed on their website: cdn.forestresearch.gov.uk/2007/08/fcpg018.pdf

HOW TO TAKE CUTTINGS

Taking cuttings is easy and it may be the best way to propagate certain trees. Here are some further considerations to help turn a stem into a vigorous new plant.

Growing from seed should be a priority for a Community Tree Nursery, but taking cuttings – also called ‘vegetative production’ – can be a useful way of producing plants more quickly. This can be helpful for a new Community Tree Nursery starting out with little or no stock raised from seed. Taking cuttings involves taking a piece of a plant and encouraging it to produce roots (see page 14). Some tree species, such as willows and poplars, are easier to propagate from cuttings than from seed. It’s best to take cuttings from different trees wherever possible to ensure genetic diversity within future planting stock. This is because the plants you produce will be exact genetic copies of the plant you collected the cuttings from. Remember to include cuttings from a mix of male and female trees if the species is dioecious.

To cut or not to cut?

GROW TOGETHER

You can help increase knowledge among your fellow tree growers by sharing the results of your own trials and experiments. What worked well for you? What didn’t work?

‘softwood cuttings’ from a soft section of semi-ripe and ‘greenwood’ (current season’s growth), while it is in leaf in late spring and early summer.

n It is important to follow best plant hygiene practices. Only take cuttings from healthy plants and regularly disinfect your tools, particularly when taking material from different plants during the same collection session.

WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE?

Monoecious species are self- fertile, which means that one tree has both male and female reproductive parts. Dioecious species have separate male and female trees.

n If you propagate semi-ripe and greenwood cuttings during the active growing season, you need to be careful to avoid drought stress. Mist them regularly with water and cover your seedbeds with propagation film (a clear or white film used during sprouting and propagation).

n Some trees are more difficult to grow from cuttings than others. Most growers find beech unsuitable and hazel tends to have lower viability from hardwood cuttings than from softwood cuttings.

Different tree species are propagated in different ways, but there are some general principles that will help you plan what cuttings are worth taking.

n You can take ‘hardwood cuttings’ (last season’s growth) from many species after leaf fall in autumn and late winter. Or you can take

The RHS is a good source of information on propagating tree species. Alan Toogood’s book ‘RHS Propagating Plants’ provides details and timings for many native tree species. See our Useful Resources section for further reading.

HOW TO USE COMPOST

The size, strength and health of your new trees can be significantly improved by choosing the right type of medium to grow them in. Most growers use home-made or commercially produced compost.

Many tree nurseries experiment over many years to create their own compost ‘recipes’, which they know work for them.

‘Hot composting’ – a method of making compost quickly at high temperatures – works well, as it reduces risks of pathogens in the mixture and creates compost more quickly than traditional ‘cold’ composting methods. There are several principles to creating good compost.

Structure and nutrition

When composting, you often hear people talk of ‘greens’ and ‘browns’. Getting the right mix between the two is crucial.

Browns are dry materials such as dry leaves, wood chips, straw, sawdust and newspaper. They add bulk and help air get into the compost. Browns are high in carbon.

Greens include fruit and veg scraps, eggshells, grass clippings, coffee grounds, plastic-free tea bags (check as this varies by brand), manure and recently pulled weeds. They supply most of the nutrients. Greens are high in nitrogen.

For ‘hot compost’, use approximately one cubic metre of well-mixed, small, shredded materials in an insulated compost area or container. A 50:50 brown:green ratio works well. Try chopping up your materials with a lawnmower and garden shredder, but avoid thick, woody stems or bulky items as they will not work.

Temperature

For ‘hot composting’, your compost heap should be between 49–77oC. Use a compost thermometer to make sure it’s warm enough.

Air

If the temperature of the compost drops below 43oC, it needs to be turned to bring the dry outside material to the middle. More moisture may need to be added. After a month, your compost should be ready to use.

Moisture

Dampen but do not soak your compost heap as you build it. Your pile should maintain the consistency and moisture level of a wrung-out sponge when squeezed. When using plant pots or root trainers, it’s worthwhile adding a water retention medium such as perlite to your compost.

Best compost to buy?

If you need to buy compost, avoid peat-based products to protect the environment from the damaging impacts of peat extraction. At the time of writing, the government had recently announced a plan to ban the sale of peat-based compost in retail outlets across England by 2024. Look for a reputable supplier with the correct certification. Check packaging for the quality standard PAS 100 (‘Publicly Available Specification for Composted Materials’).

Nicky Scott, a specialist in composting, has written a number of helpful guides on composting at doctorcompost.org

HOW TO USE GREEN MANURE

Green manures are fast-growing plants sown to cover bare soil. When dug into the ground while still green, they improve soil condition and return valuable nutrients such as nitrogen to the soil.

In spring or early summer, you can sow green manure seeds, such as buckwheat, mustard and phacelia, into growing beds that have had trees lifted from them. Simply dig the plants into the soil and let them rot in. They will re-condition the soil before the beds are re-used the following spring. As decaying green manures can suppress plant growth, just make sure to allow at least two weeks between adding green manure and sowing tree seed or planting seedlings. It is sensible to also grow green manures in any un-used nursery beds. Their foliage smothers weeds and supports beneficial insects, and their roots help protect the soil from erosion by wind and rain.

Top tip

A dense carpet of green makes a perfect environment for slugs and snails, so after green manuring you may need to adopt control measures using methods that are non-toxic to other creatures, such as hedgehogs and amphibians.

HOW TO GROW YOUR TREES ON

Young trees are dependent on us for their care - watering, weeding and feeding - to ensure good, strong growth. During their first years, they must be nurtured until they’re strong enough to be planted into their final home.

Unless you have a very small area, an irrigation system is the most efficient way to water your trees. If you have power, set the system on a timer. There are many simple and cost-effective irrigation systems on the market, however, drip pipes are more effective than leaky pipes.

HOW TO WATER YOUNG TREES

Watering can be one of the most time-consuming and badly executed activities in any tree nursery or garden. If you apply too much or too little, a tree can become stressed and die. But just the right amount, applied at the right time, will make your trees grow tall and strong.

Ideally, you should water your trees very early, before the heat of the day, or in the late afternoon. This ensures the sun won’t evaporate most of the water before it gets to the trees’ roots and helps avoid leaf scorch (when foliage turns brown, curls or shrivels due to drying winds or other unfavourable environmental conditions).

Watering foliage late in the day can lead to fungi and mould developing on the leaves. Ideally, soil should be moistened to a depth of 5cm or deeper. Infrequent deep watering is better than frequent shallow watering.

Heavy clay soils will hold water much longer than sandy soils, but without regular watering, they can bake and cause root damage. Adding organic matter, such as compost, to your soil will improve its ability to retain water. Pots and root trainers also need watering and feeding more frequently than trees grown in the ground.

How to nourish your trees

Feeding trees ensures they have the right nutrients they need to grow. During the growing season, they may need feeding every month. Any yellowing leaves can be a sign of nutrient

deficiency, and indicate that more food is needed.

You can buy manufactured feeds, but it’s best to make your own organic ‘teas’ from plants such as comfrey, borage, green alkanet, dandelion and nettle. The roots, stems, leaves and flowers of these plants contain vital nutrients that support plant growth such as nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, boron, copper, manganese, sulphur, iron and silicon. They are also better for the environment and cheaper to use, as they may already be growing nearby or you can grow them for this purpose.

HOW TO MAKE TREE ‘TEA’

1 Cut comfrey, borage, green alkanet, dandelion or nettles into small pieces.

2 Soak the pieces in cold water for about four weeks, making sure they are submerged.

3 Dilute the resulting solution with water at a ratio of 1 part tea:10 parts water.

4 Use to feed and nourish your trees.

HOW TO MULCH

ulching has lots of benefits and is essential for successful plant growth in any thriving Community Tree Nursery. Mulch is a thick layer of natural material you use to cover the soil around your young trees. It helps to suppress weeds and lock moisture into the soil, so you need to water them less often.

Some mulches also contain nutrients. They can help to improve soil structure when worms come to the surface then carry them deep into the soil.

Deciduous trees are naturally mulched by their own leaves in the autumn. This is a process that allows the natural cycling of nutrients back to the soil and is an essential part of a healthy ecosystem. In a tree nursery, fallen leaves should be left around trees wherever possible.

Collect leaves to apply as a direct mulch, or use

them to make leaf mould. Such mulches increase the nutrients available to mycorrhiza fungi, which in turn improve tree health by increasing the tree’s access to soil nutrients.

Be aware of the risks of transferring any plant material between different sites, as trees may have developed relationships with mycorrhiza fungi. Introducing the wrong type may be ineffective at best or damaging at worse.

How to use grass

clippings

If you’re using fresh grass clippings as mulch, apply them in a thin layer (6mm deep) to allow them to start to break down before they begin to smell or rot. Thicker layers tend to remain too wet and can invite mould, which can be detrimental to plant health. They also get a bit smelly!

THREE WAYS TO REDUCE WEEDS

Some people say there is no such thing as a ‘weed’ – there are just wild plants in places where you don’t want them. In any tree nursery, such species will always pop up, but don’t worry. With good management,

NO DIG

Using no-dig methods when cultivating open ground beds will help reduce weed populations.

‘No-dig’ essentially involves mulching the soil with a thick layer of organic matter, notably homemade compost. Young trees are planted directly through the mulch, avoiding turning over the soil and exposing any weed seeds to light, which triggers germination in many species.

This technique can also reduce the amount of carbon released from the soil by limiting disturbance.

EDGING

most common nursery weed species can be easily tolerated or controlled.

Knowing what weed species are present in your nursery’s soil and site perimeter will help you plan how to manage them.

Edging your planting beds to create a distinct gap between the cultivated area and any grass paths will help to prevent lawn weeds and grasses spreading into the bed. This is easily achieved by removing some turf and creating a drop of at least 5cm between the grass path and the bed. These borders should be regularly trimmed using edging shears and the clippings collected and composted.

Some people use timber edging. On sloping sites this can help prevent soil washing away, stop grass from encroaching and define the extent of the beds. It also allows you to mow and strim without risking damage to your new trees. However, timber edging can provide the perfect habitat and breeding ground for slugs and snails!

WILD AREAS

Allow room for wild plants to grow in designated areas. This will encourage beneficial insects to feed and breed here, which can form part of a naturebased, pest-management plan for your nursery.

Time the removal of any flowering weeds to prevent more seeds from being set. Docks, for example, are a valuable plant for many insect species, but if these are present in your wildlife areas consider removing the flowers before they set seed. Avoid using chemicals for weed control for both environmental and cost reasons. In most situations, they are not necessary and can have negative long-term effects on the wider environment and human and animal health.

Above Mycorrhizae are beneficial fungi growing in association with plant roots. They take sugars from plants in exchange for moisture and nutrients.

Left Mulching is generally used to save water, suppress weeds and improve the soil around plants, but it can also reduce the amount of time spent on tasks such as watering and weeding.

HOW TO PROTECT YOUR TREES

Your young trees are at a delicate stage in their growth and may not survive without some TLC. Follow our tree care tips to keep your trees in excellent health.

Netting can help protect young trees from nibbling wildlife and harsh environmental conditions, including hail, wind, sun and frost.

PROTECTION FROM SUN AND FROST

Using suitable netting to cover your trees can help in four ways:

n Provide shade

This prevents plants from getting leaf scorch from hot sun if they have been recently watered, are covered in dew or following a frost.

n Prevent water loss

Shade created by netting hugely reduces water loss from trees and the soil through evapotranspiration.

n Protect against frost

Netting can also stop early or late frost forming on tree leaves. Very young trees and seedlings need to be ‘hardened off’ – i.e. allowed time to adapt to changeable, harsher outdoor conditions – before they are exposed to frost.

n Reduce the risk of disease

Netting provides a physical barrier against some pests and diseases. Just make sure you use the correct type of netting for covering trees.

In short, netting reduces the stress on your trees and reduces the need to water them, which saves water and lots of your time.

PROTECTION FROM WILDLIFE

Preventing damage by mice, rabbits, voles and deer is vital for your trees to be strong and healthy. Fencing can keep out deer and rabbits, and guarding individual beds and root trainers also protects against squirrels and voles. These rodents will eat seeds, especially acorns and hazelnuts, faster than you can plant them! It is best to stratify these seeds in metal containers and guard them with mesh. Your seeds may still be vulnerable after a year, even if the tree has started to grow, as the seed remains a viable food source for small mammals.

Guard your nuts! Voles and squirrels will raid your stores of seeds and may cause damage even after young trees have started to grow.

THE TREE GROWER’S GUIDE

PROTECTION FROM DISEASES

Boot washes

Boot washes are important to reduce the transfer of soil-borne diseases. Mixing an appropriate disinfectant into a boot-sized container, with a lid to keep rain out, works well.

Biosecurity notice

A simple notice explaining to visitors and staff how the tree nursery operates to minimise risk of plant contamination helps raise awareness of these concerns and what you’re doing to prevent plant health issues.

For further guidance on what you can do to prevent tree pests and disease from establishing and spreading, visit: www.gov.uk/guidance/ prevent-the-introduction-and-spread-of-treepests-and-diseases.

For an example of Moor Trees’ Community Tree Nursery biosecurity policy, visit: moortrees.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/ Moor-Trees-bio-security-policy.pdf

Your nursery will need to take steps to minimise – to the best of your ability – the risk carried by your plants.

Plant quarantine areas

Any plant materials that are bought in from another tree nursery, or donated to you, should be isolated from your existing plants by placing them in a designated area that is at least 10 metres away to avoid cross contamination (see how to lay out your tree nursery on pages 134–135).

They should remain there until they leave the tree nursery. Make sure you inspect your plants, and those in quarantine, regularly to spot any pests or diseases.

Think carefully before accepting donated plants – especially if you know little about where they have come from. Could you arrange for donated trees to go directly to their planting sites, so that they don’t need to come to the nursery?

Regular plant health checks

It is sensible to formally inspect all your plants once a month and record any pests and diseases found and if nothing has been found. Any pest and diseases identified outside of the formal inspection should also be recorded. You should also make a note of any other factors such as weather or unusual occurrences, which may have been a contributing factor, and the actions you have taken.

Records

It’s good practice to keep records of where and when you collected seeds and cuttings. For some species, you may also need to register your collections as Forest Reproductive Material (FRM). See pages 162–163 for the rules and regulations.

For more details about identifying common symptoms and best practice for avoiding and treating diseases, please refer to ‘How to avoid pests and diseases’.

trees you suspect are in ill health to the Forestry Commission, Scottish Forestry and Natural Resources Wales using TreeAlert treealert.forestresearch. gov.uk

HOW TO MOVE YOUR TREES

Once your young trees have reached the right size, it’s time to move them on to the next stage in their journey. Follow our tips for a smooth transition.

DON’T FORGET TO LABEL

A tree with no leaves can be hard to identify! So it’s vital you label your trees at every stage – from seed sowing to bundling for transport.

HOW TO LIFT AND BUNDLE

The best time to lift and move your trees is between November and February when they are dormant. In broadleaf trees, all their leaves, or almost all of them, will have dropped off. In conifers, growth is much reduced.

Root trainers

Root trainers are much easier to handle and more robust, as the trees’ roots are not bare but held in the compost. However, they can still dry out and care must be taken.

n It is best to leave the trees in the root trainers until the last minute before transporting.

n Open up the root trainers and gently lift each tree out by the stem, prising the trees apart if

roots have grown together between the trees.

n Place the trees into bags. Compostable food bin liners work well and can hold up to 20 trees grown in the larger root trainers.

n Tie the bag so the trees cannot fall out.

Bare-root trees

This method is best used for small, bare-root trees up to three years old. Larger and older trees must be lifted differently, in effect root-balled. This method is not explained in this publication.

‘Heeling in’ plants gives them protection from the weather, especially over winter. And by temporarily covering their roots with soil, you can buy more time to find their permanent new location. So before lifting any trees from the soil,

make sure you have dug a heeling in trench.

A heeling in trench has the profile illustrated (right), with the soil piled up on one side. The trench must be long enough to hold all the trees to keep them alive once they have been lifted.

Small tree roots are easily damaged when the tree is dug up or if left to dry out, so follow these steps to protect them.

1 Raise bare-root trees with a fork, loosen the earth around the base of the tree and then gently lift the tree into the air.

2 Shake off the excess soil and immediately place in a trug or bucket of cold water.

3 Once you have lifted your chosen species of tree, you can bundle them together –bundles of 10 or 20 work well.

4 Tie them together with some string, and label them with the species and the quantity.

5 Take the bundle to the heeling-in trench, lay them in and cover them with soil as shown below. Make sure there are no air pockets around the tree roots.

KEEP TREE ROOTS MOIST

Tree roots will start to dry out and die within a few minutes of being dug up unless they are placed in water or covered with soil.

EXPLAINED: HOW TO HEEL IN

If you can’t move your trees straight away, you can heel them in all winter, from November to the end of March.

for

Pack the tree close together in the trench and replace the soil over their roots. Firm down the soil gently and water well.

Heeling in is a technique for storing bare-root trees if you’re unable to plant them right away.

Look

a cool, shady spot, ideally out of the wind. Dig a trench about a foot deep with one gently sloping side.

HOW TO TRANSPORT TREES

Now you’ve lifted and bundled all your trees for the job in hand, you’re ready to transport them.

Gently remove bare-root trees from the heeling-in trench and place the bundles in bags. Remember, tree roots can dry out and die very quickly, so put some leaf litter and water into each bag to ensure the tree roots remain moist.

Using thick polythene bags, such as rubble bags, will help to keep tree roots moist.

Professional tree nurseries use multi-layered polythene bags, which are black on the inside, and white on the outside.

When moving trees in root trainers, simply pick up the bags with your trees in and place them gently in the transport vehicle.

On the move

BE CAREFUL!

Carrying a tree by its trunk can strip the bark and injure it. Instead, lift and carry the tree by the root ball or pot it is in. Use a wheelbarrow if you can. Be careful not to drop the tree and damage the root ball.

If you’re transporting the trees in an open trailer or truck, lie the trees with the bag end pointing towards the towing vehicle or cab. This stops the wind blowing into the bags and drying out the tree roots. You may need to tie the trees down. Keep movement to a minimum.

Once you’ve reached the new site, trees should be gently removed from the vehicle and placed in a new heeling-in trench. A tree that has been heeled in properly can stay in the trench all winter, until you’re ready to plant it properly.

If deer and rabbits are a threat, then they should also be protected appropriately.

THINKING OF SELLING YOUR TREES?

If you plan on selling your trees for woodland and hedgerow planting, you should familiarise yourself with, and follow, the standards set out in BS3936-04: 2007 Nursery Stock Part 4: Specification for forest trees, poplars and willows.

This sets standard requirements, such as the quality and condition of plants, and the minimum dimensions for certain species.

A reasonable minimum size to aim for is 20–40cm high with a root collar diameter of 4mm. If your trees are smaller than this, they may not survive the stress of being lifted and planted out in a new location.

KNOW THE RULES AND REGULATIONS

Trees you plant have the potential to cause nuisance or damage. So it’s important to understand your legal responsibilities.

Provenance

It is wise to collect tree seeds from your local area. This is known as local provenance. Trees grown in your area are more likely to be better adapted to your local climate, soil types and pests and diseases, and so have a better chance of growing well. Local provenance is divided up across the country as shown in this map.

Source: Forestry Commission Information Note 082, May 2006

Forest Reproductive Material

The Forest Reproductive Material (Great Britain) regulations (known as FRM) provide a system of control for seeds, cuttings and planting stock that is used for forestry purposes in Great Britain. This ensures that planting stock is traceable throughout the collection and production process to a registered source of basic material. In addition, it provides information on the genetic quality of the stock.

For many species such as alder, birch, beech, hornbeam, oak and wild cherry, if your seeds or trees are to be sold for forestry purposes (i.e. you are not growing them for your own use), you must register as a Forest Reproductive Materials (FRM) supplier to collect tree seeds, cuttings and grow trees.

You will need to notify the Forestry Commission of your intention to collect seeds or cuttings at least 14 days before the collection date. Once collected, you must apply for a Master Certificate here: www.gov.uk/guidance/ marketing-forest-reproductive-material-forforestry-purposes

Even if you are collecting seed and growing trees for your own purposes, it is advisable to inform the Forestry Commission and obtain certification (either a Master Certificate or a Certificate of Local Provenance), as this will assist you greatly with traceability and quality assurance in satisfying grant-awarding bodies.

UKSIG

The Woodland Trust runs the UK and Ireland Sourced and Grown Assurance Scheme (known as UKISG). It is a voluntary initiative for forest nurseries. It identifies the provenance of stock to buyers and assures that trees have been raised from seeds sourced and grown solely within the UK and Ireland for their entire lifespan.

While it’s not a licensed industry standard, UKISG is the benchmark for tree procurement

at the Woodland Trust. Read more here: www. woodlandtrust.org.uk/about-us/what-we-do/weplant-trees/uk-sourced-and-grown-scheme

Plant Healthy

The Plant Healthy Certification Scheme has been developed by the industry, with input from government and third-sector organisations. It sets out key requirements for plant health management and biosecurity, and relates to a range of horticultural businesses and organisations. These include commercial nurseries, plant retailers, landscape management businesses, and public gardens. Read more here: planthealthy.org.uk

Health and Safety

Many people working in Community Tree Nurseries will be volunteers. In fact, there may be no paid members of staff. Remember, health and safety is everyone’s responsibility. This guide does not provide detail on the health and safety risks in tree nurseries, or of growing and planting trees.

Here’s a basic introduction: www.vces.org.uk/ wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Essential-Guide-toHealth-and-Safety-of-Volunteers-NL.pdf

ENHANCING AND RESTORING LANDSCAPES

Now it’s time to take your trees beyond the nursery and out into the world, there are lots of things you need to consider and plan before you put spade to soil.

WHY SHOULD I PLANT TREES?

Planting trees and woodlands provides so many benefits for people and wildlife, and can have a huge impact on our lives. Here are some reasons why you should plant trees...

To support wildlife

Woodlands are home to thousands of species of plants, insects and animals. A single oak tree can support over 2,300 species (including 31 mammals), 326 species depend on oak for survival and 229 species are rarely found on trees other than oak. And that’s only one species of tree!

To prevent flooding and erosion

Planted on high, open ground in catchment areas, in floodplains and along riverbanks, trees slow water flow and run off. Woodlands are proven to hold water upstream, helping to reduce flooding downstream.

To filter water

Trees slow the flow of water, limit erosion and reduce sedimentation. Water entering watercourses, reservoirs and the sea is cleaner, reducing the amount of energy and time required to create clean water for us and animals.

To reduce reliance on fossil fuels

Trees can be used structurally in construction, for heat, insulation, furniture… in fact, the list is virtually endless. They also provide some of our best renewable alternatives to fossil fuel-based products.

To provide a visual and audio barrier

Trees create both a visual and an audio barrier, reducing noise pollution in urban areas by deflecting and/or absorbing sound. Thoughtful town planning that uses trees strategically can help people live closer together with less of an impact on each other, than in urban spaces without trees.

To clean and cool the air, and reduce pollution

Trees are the best air filters in the land. Planting them in cities and towns can reduce the temperature by 2–9oC, as when water evaporates from the leaves the air surrounding the tree cools. The shade they cast further adds to the cooling benefits in urban areas.

To reduce the effects of wind

Trees make effective wind breaks, protecting property, crops and animals, as well as ourselves.

To lock up carbon dioxide

Trees absorb carbon and lock it up inside their trunks, canopy and roots. They also clean the earth, absorbing heavy metals and other toxins.

To improve health and wellbeing

Scientific studies from around the world have proven that being in green spaces improves our physical and mental wellbeing. And that being able to see trees from your hospital window speeds up healing.

To help the economy, generate jobs, create wealth and increase tourism

Trees make money directly though urban, countryside and agricultural employment, through the manufacture of timber products, and by supporting a healthier population, which costs the government less in aid. Green tourism, and the desire to escape to the country, supports a thriving rural economy.

To protect soils

Tree roots bind soil together, preventing erosion. Hedgerows act as wind breaks and stop soil being washed off fields after agricultural activities.

To create shade and shelter for livestock and crops

Trees planted into an agricultural system offer benefits to livestock and crops. The removal of hedgerows and copses reduces the habitat available for natural predators in the landscape, which keep crops free of pests. The widespread use of chemical pesticides to destroy the very creatures once controlled by nature can have far reaching impacts in the wider environment, causing unforeseen damage.

The purple emperor depends on oak trees to complte its life cycle

Sheep in Cumbria seek shade

THE TREE GROWER’S GUIDE

Street trees make our cities more beautiful, improve our mental and physical health, reduce pollution, and provide a home for urban wildlife.

PLANTING LANDSCAPES FOR WILDLIFE AND PEOPLE

Planting high-quality woodlands and hedgerows, which are appropriate to local conditions and have a diverse mix of species, helps enhance the landscape

Trees are an intrinsic part of the British landscape. They are always there – from the solitary wind-bent thorn on a blasted moor to the ancient yew watching silently over a graveyard or the whispering copse in a hidden vale. Hedgerows stitch our fields together, are home to a wealth of wildlife, connect patches of wild habitat, and provide protection for many plants and animals from predation and the elements. Here are a few considerations when planting.

LANDSCAPE FEATURES

If you are planting across a wide landscape, think

under, while wild thickets bristling with berried plants are a haven and food source for wildlife. Not all tree features will be appropriate in all locations. If you are unsure, your can seek guidance from Local Authority landscape character assessments. These documents will often also list the key species that are intrinsic to the character of a landscape.

SPECIMEN TREES

about the forms, textures and colours, seasonality and scale of the trees you are planting, as well as the impact you wish to create. A small group of tall trees on a brow of a hill will draw the eye; others may be positioned to frame a view, or screen something unsightly.

Woodlands that follow the contours of the land to a horizon or a natural edge look more natural than those that come to a jarring halt in a random location. A mixture of broadleaf trees and conifers creates light and dark tones, and changes colours throughout the seasons providing interest. Trees provide shade in summer and shelter in winter, tall trees create vast cathedrals you can wild camp

Specimen trees are unusual or impressive iconic trees, such as majestic oaks and towering sweet chestnuts, which could be in parks or fields. Usually, such trees are protected by a single guard sufficient to keep grazing animals from browsing their leaves (see pages 186–187).

When you are choosing street trees, there are a range of things to consider, such as their hardiness, form, colour, fruit, flower, scent, shade and ways in which they enhance biodiversity. A cherry tree dropping fruit onto a pavement will cause a slip hazard; a small tree in a large open space may have no impact; a large tree in a small space may cause access, shading and

encroachment problems into underground utilities or overhead cables; a tree that attracts bees planted in a playground will soon draw complaints; a tree susceptible to pollution and salt spray from gritting may suffer next to a busy road. Think about the space and each tree’s natural properties and growth habits. There are many cultivars of native species that have been bred especially for urban and domestic environments.

Adding trees and hedges to the landscape has many benefits, including making it more resilient.

WOODLANDS

When planting a woodland the first question is: why am I doing this? For veneer quality oak? To sit under and gaze at the stars? For carbon sequestration? For future generations to enjoy? For firewood? For biodiversity? For my farm animals to graze through and have shelter? Or a combination of any of these?

Each of these different purposes will influence how you design the wood. Veneer oak woodland will be a single-species plantation. It will be intensively managed, initially planted perhaps at 1m spacing to reduce side branching, in very straight lines and require work every year for 50 years until you harvest some timber. The final cut may be in 250 years’ time.

For biodiversity, you should aim to plant many different tree species, all native, in a nongeometric layout, averaging a tree every 2-3m. You should create glades and open areas and wiggly edges, and densely plant some areas, leaving others are more gappy. In this type of woodland, your management will be much less intensive.

When planting up future grazing pasture, for livestock or horses for example, you would plant fewer trees. Spacing should be much wider, even up to 20m apart, so that the light can get through and the grass can grow under your mature woodland for your animals. You may choose not to plant species such as yew, which have poisonous seeds or berries. Wet woodland leaves spaces for pools to form. A watercourse may be partially dammed with timber to create seasonal flooding and establish gravel beds for spawning fish. This may require consent, so visit the government’s guide to owning a watercourse here: www.gov.uk/ guidance/owning-a-watercourse

Your woodland may be funded by a grant. Then the grant-giving authority may well stipulate what trees you must plant, and how you should plant them.

Just as when you are planning the location for a tree nursery, you also need to consider where your woodland is to be planted and bear in mind the soil type, elevation, aspect, water, access etc. This will also help inform which trees are the best ones to plant, depending on your objectives.

HEDGEROWS

There are similar things to consider when planting a hedgerow. Is it a boundary hedge? Is it for wildlife? Is it to hide something from view? How high or thick do you want it to grow? Was there a hedge there before? How will you manage it in future?

An evergreen hedge may be fast growing, hide almost anything all year round, and grow thickly. However, it will need annual trimming if it is to maintain its form. And, once it is taller than 2m, it will become difficult to trim the top unless you have an elevating platform.

Out of control evergreen hedges can also be subject to complaints from neighbours. There is specific legislation as to how close to a property and how high they can be allowed to grow. There is more information here: www.gov.uk/ government/collections/high-hedges Broadleaf or native hedgerows can be equally challenging in domestic situations, but in an

agricultural or domestic setting they are much better than evergreen hedges for native wildlife. If planted and maintained properly, they can be a fantastic asset to your garden and land.

Hedgerows provide a wind break, protect soil from erosion, reduce flooding, provide shelter for livestock, store carbon, reduce pollution, provide wood fuel, offer privacy, connect habitats, and of course provide a home, food, shelter and corridors to travel for wildlife.

and

Shutterstock/Paul Maguire

Hedgerows are the vital stitching in the patchwork of our countryside. Not only are they beautiful, they also provide homes

corridors for wildlife, such as hedgehogs (above).

HOW TO SELECT A SITE

Frequently, sites where you might plant trees simply become available, rather than the site being purposefully selected for its suitability. For example, a piece of land might come up for sale or be unused by its owners. The most important thing to consider in these circumstances is whether you will damage the site or cause a nuisance by planting trees there.

‘Right tree, right place’ is a useful mantra. If your site is an important, or potentially important, site for certain plants and animals that are not associated with woodland, then it’s best not to plant trees there.

Where not to plant

There are some places where it’s best not to plant trees such as on upland

Examples of where not to plant trees because of an area’s conservation importance include peatland, heath, acid, unimproved or chalk grassland, wetlands and salt estuaries. In some cases, it may be reasonable to plant trees around the edges. Even planting certain tree species in existing woodland could be wrong. For example, you shouldn’t plant sycamore or Scot’s pine in an Atlantic oak woodland because they’re not species naturally present in such an important habitat. You should also check the status of the land. There are many conservation designations in

the UK including Special Protection Area (SPA), Special Area of Conservation (SAC), National Nature Reserve (NNR), Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI), Local Nature Reserve (LNR), RAMSAR site, Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) and Scheduled Ancient Monument (SAM).

All of these designations mean that the site is important for something – and you need to check what before you do anything!

FURTHER INFORMATION

Thankfully, there are many websites that provide this essential information. Here are some key sites, but your local authority and local biodiversity record centre can also help.

Magic Map Application magic.defra.gov.uk/MagicMap.aspx

The MAGIC website provides authoritative geographic information about the natural environment from across government. The information covers rural, urban, coastal and marine environments across Great Britain.

Forestry Commission Map Browser www.forestergis.com/Apps/MapBrowser

The Forestry Commission map browser allows you to view data layers published by the Forestry Commission, and to see how they interact with areas of land you have an interest in. You are able to draw features, measure boundaries and distances and print the maps you have created.

National Biodiversity Network nbn.org.uk

The National Biodiversity Network (NBN) is a collaborative partnership created to exchange biodiversity information. Its members include many UK wildlife conservation organisations,

In addition, some sites are important for specific species. Again, checking is essential. For example, if a field is a known breeding site for rare ground-nesting birds – such as golden plovers or skylarks – and you plant trees there, you will have destroyed that species’ nesting site.

There may also be planning restrictions and covenants on the land you wish to plant. So check, check and check again.

government, country agencies, environmental agencies, local environmental records centres and many voluntary groups.

Joint Nature Conservation Committee jncc.gov.uk

The Joint Nature Conservation Committee (more commonly known as JNCC) is a public body that advises the UK Government and devolved administrations on UK-wide and international nature conservation. They have UK BAP Priority Habitat descriptions for woodlands and access to much other nature conservation data.

IUCN Red List of Threatened Species www.iucnredlist.org

The IUCN gives information on threatened species that may be highlighted through your local biodiversity records centre.

HOW TO SELECT TREE SPECIES

Once you’ve selected a site and made sure your tree planting will be beneficial to the local environment, you must decide what type of tree(s) you will plant. The site and your objectives will define which specimen tree, or what type of woodland or hedgerow, you choose.

The geology and soil type should be a major factor, followed by all those other influencing factors mentioned from page 168

There’s nothing better than digging up the earth to see what you have under your feet. Alternatively, you can view geology and soil maps, but these are usually at a very small scale and may not be accurate enough for your plot of land.

The British Geological Survey (bgs.ac.uk) has

When planning to plant a woodland, visit the site to see what is already there, such as wildlife and tree species.

some useful resources for understanding soils:

n geologyviewer.bgs.ac.uk

n UK Soil Observatory mapapps2.bgs.ac.uk/ukso/home.html

If you want to plant native woodland for wildlife or conservation purposes, the best clue is in the landscape. Look around you and see what is growing well – nature knows best.

If you’re considering planting trees for commercial gain e.g. a timber crop, it’s best to seek advice from your local Forestry Commission Woodland Officer. They can suggest species and predicted growth rates based on your location.

A SELECTION OF NATIVE TREE SPECIES FOR WOODLAND AND HEDGEROW PLANTING

CANOPY

Alnus glutinosa Common alder

Betula pendula Silver birch

Betula pubescens Downy birch

Carpinus betulus European hornbeam

Fagus sylvatica European beech

Populus tremula European aspen

Quercus robur English oak

Quercus petraea Sessile oak

Tilia cordata Small-leaved lime

Ulmus glabra Wych elm

UNDERSTORY

Acer campestre Field maple

Corylus allevana Hazel

Crataegus monogyna Common hawthorn

Euonymus europaeus European spindle

Frangula alnus Alder buckthorn

Ilex aquifolium Common holly

Malus sylvestris Crab apple

Prunus avium Wild cherry

Prunus spinosa Blackthorn

Salix caprea Goat willow

Sorbus aucuparia Rowan

Viburnum opulus Guelder Rose

USEFUL WEBSITES AND APPS

n www.forestryengland.uk/our-offices

n forestry.gov.scot/contact

BEYOND THE NURSERY DO A SPECIES SURVEY

Before thinking about planting, it’s best to survey a site for what is already growing or living there. Ecological surveys can be expensive, but a basic plant survey will provide a baseline

n naturalresourceswales.gov.uk/guidance-andadvice/business-sectors/forestry/woodlandcreation/?lang=en

n www.forestry.ie/component/contact/contact/4general/1?Itemid=148

n The Forestry Commission provides a database on forest tree species here: www.forestresearch.gov.uk/tools-andresources/tree-species-database

HOW TO DESIGN A WOODLAND

Trees, woodlands and hedgerows in isolation provide some biodiversity benefits, but when they are joined or very close to other habitats with trees, the benefits rapidly increase. Connectivity is essential between all habitats and, unfortunately in the UK, habitats are very fragmented.

When planning to plant a woodland or hedgerow, try to ensure it is connected to another area with trees. Shelterbelts that are 20+ metres wide are a simple way to connect patches of existing woodland.

Native broadleaved woodlands, planted for conservation and biodiversity benefits, should include a mix of at least nine species. They should have a high canopy, sub canopy and understorey, and a field layer that is rich in grasses, bramble, bracken, flowering plants, mosses and liverworts – all dependent on geology, soil type, elevation, exposure and aspect.

Choosing

Choose a variety of tree species to create a rich habitat for wildlife.

a vegetation community

Historically, woodland in the UK was classified into National Vegetation Communities. Eighteen woodland communities were identified, each of which had sub-communities within it. (Read the National Vegetation Classification: Field guide to woodland on the JNCC website: jncc.gov.uk).

HOW TO DESIGN A HEDGEROW

Hedgerow mixes should follow a similar pattern. Hedges on mounds, banks or otherwise raised and free-draining soil will tend to be drier. Hedgerows alongside wet ditches can include moisture-loving species.

If you’re planting a woodland for biodiversity, it is sensible to consider the woodland communities that are typical for your location, elevation and climate. This system has now been replaced by the UK Habitat Classification.

Below are three common types of UK woodland, with our recommended tree species to plant. The tree species are listed in decreasing dominance. It is worth noting that ash is omitted here, due to the risk of ash dieback. Some of these species will prefer the drier areas of a wetter woodland site, and vice versa. You should aim to plant a mix of species as follows: 60% canopy: 20% sub canopy: 20% understorey.

20%

Understory

20%

Subcanopy

When planting a woodland, aim for the right balance of tree types.

60% Canopy

IDEAL SPECIES MIXES FOR DIFFERENT WOODLANDS

Lowland mixed deciduous woodland

Consider planting:

Canopy: Oak, hornbeam (as an alternative to ash), wych elm, aspen (as an alternative to ash), birch, wild cherry

Sub canopy: Small-leaved lime, field maple, crab apple, holly, willow

Understorey: Hawthorn, hazel, spindle, blackthorn, elder, guelder rose, wayfaring tree, wild privet

Upland mixed deciduous woodland

Consider planting:

Canopy: Birch, oak, alder, wych elm, aspen (as an alternative to ash)

Sub canopy: Bird cherry, rowan, holly

Understorey: Hazel, hawthorn, elder, wayfaring tree, grey willow

Wet woodland

Consider planting:

Canopy: Alder, aspen (as an alternative to ash), birch, oak

Sub canopy: Crack willow, goat willow, alder buckthorn

Understorey: Elder, hazel, grey willow, blackthorn, guelder rose, hawthorn.

Oak Birch Alder

Mature in-field and boundary trees are vital. Plant new trees now to replace these old trees.

Protect newly planted trees from livestock with secure boundaries.

In damp areas, plant trees such as alder, aspen, black poplar and willow.

In wetter areas, consider creating pools for aquatic plants and insects.

Trees planted on slopes and near watercourses reduce erosion and help reduce flooding. Tree roots hold riverbanks together.

Double stock- and rabbitproof fencing stops browsing animals eating new hedges and avoids need for tree shelters.

Grazing animals can push over tree shelters. Remove stock until trees have established in 5–10 years.

Think how big the tree will grow. Don’t plant within 5m of overhead cables, underground services, or buildings.

Plant new trees outside the canopy and shade of mature trees.

Plant a wide range of trees. Leave open spaces for wildflowers, grasses and sedges. If possible, allow natural regeneration.

Check trees are thriving in summer and replace any dead ones the following winter.

On upper, drier slopes, plant trees such as birch, blackthorn, field maple, holly, hawthorn, hornbeam and rowan.

On lower slopes, plant trees such as hazel, oak, small-leaved lime, spindle, wild cherry and wych elm.

Encourage mature trees in hedgerows every 10-20m to provide homes for bats, birds and insects.

HOW TO PLANT A NATIVE BROADLEAVED WOODLAND

A BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO PLANTING

Now you’ve taken the time to plan your woodland, it’s time to get planting and make sure your young woodland has the best start in life.

FOUR WAYS TO PLANT TREES

Whatever trees you choose to plant, taking the time to care and nurture them when they’re young will never be wasted. Trees of all ages need care, attention and protection to ensure that quality environments are created.

Remember, the best time to plant trees is

1 HOW TO PIT PLANT

Step 1 Dig a

hole

Remove a thin square of turf the width of the spade (approx. 8”/20cm across). Dig a hole big enough to accommodate the roots so they point down or sideways, but do not bend up. Ensure the sides of the hole are rough and not smooth, as this inhibits root penetration.

Step 2 Place your tree in the hole

Find the root collar. This is the place where the colour of the

between November and February. This is when the trees are dormant and all their leaves, or almost all, have dropped off (broadleaves), or their growth is much reduced (conifers).

trunk changes between the base of your tree stem and its root system – it may be indicated by a ridge. The root collar should be just below the level of the soil when the tree is planted.

Step 3 Check the roots have space to grow

Ensure the roots are not pointing upwards. If they are, and cannot sit level in the hole, dig a bigger hole. It does not matter if the roots curl around a little, but the thicker roots should not curl tightly around themselves as they can continue to grow like this and ultimately the tree may girdle its own root system and kill itself.

Step 4 Replace and heel down the soil

Gradually replace the soil and any small stones that you dug up. Large stones should be discarded. Once the soil level reaches just above the root collar, firmly push

IS YOUR TREE IN A POT?

For trees that come in a pot (occasionally holly comes in a pot), dig a hole slightly larger than the pot.

the soil down with your heel all the way around the tree so there are no air gaps. If you need more soil, get it by digging it up from elsewhere.

Step 5 Replace any turf

Gently tug the tree to make sure it doesn’t pull out of the ground. Then replace turf upside down at the base of the tree and push down. When upside down, grass growth is inhibited and reduces competition for the tree for a short while. Don’t worry if the tree is in a dip or shallow hollow.

2 HOW TO SLIT PLANT AND T-NOTCH PLANT WHEN SHOULD I T-NOTCH PLANT?

Step 1 Open up the ground with a spade

Slit planting is suitable for bare soil and grass, and can be easier than pit planting in stony soil. Push the spade into the ground to the depth of the blade. Wiggle back and forth to open up the soil.

Step 2 Make a second incision at a right angle

If the tree’s root system is larger than the slit, place the spade at 90 degrees to the original slit and repeat step 1 to create a T-shaped hole. Use the spade to open up the earth.

Notch or slit planting with a garden spade is the quickest, but not the most reliable, method for planting small trees in large numbers.

Step 3 Place tree in hole

Place the tree in the hole, ensuring roots are pushed downwards and the root collar is slightly below ground level. Press down the earth around the tree to close the slits and compress the soil. Tug the tree stem to make sure it doesn’t come out.

The Tree Council has produced a useful guide to tree and hedgerow planting, which you can find here: treecouncil.org.uk/wp-content/ uploads/2021/11/National-Tree-Week-plantingguide.pdf

How to prepare your site

The amount of preparation you need to do will depend on the condition of the site. A well-grazed pony paddock will pose few issues, but a heavily overgrown and bramble- or bracken-filled field will be a different matter. If the field can be cut so the grass is shorter than 10cm, this will greatly assist planting and establishment. Bear in mind that you might not need to plant all areas of a site. When preparing your location, look first for areas where natural succession is already taking place. Scrub may nurture selfsown seeds and can have wildlife value in itself.

Stony and boggy fields will affect what trees you can plant and where. Steep sites will inevitably mean planting takes much longer.

How to space your trees

If your primary objective when planting a woodland is conservation and enhancing biodiversity, you should avoid planting conifers, monocultures or solely timber-producing species.

For broadleaves, plant approximately 1,100 trees per hectare (100m x 100m). Plant groups of three, five or seven trees, leaving a space of around 2-3m between each tree. Then move away from that group and start planting another group.

It is often easier to plant a framework of the dominant species, e.g. oak, across a defined area, and then plant other species in the gaps. You need to ensure the species are mixed up, so they don’t form an extensive area of the same species. That is not to say a small group of hazel or hawthorn is not good. The aim, quite simply, is randomness.

3 HOW TO SPEAR PLANT

Spears tend to have a flat face and a point at the end, and are designed to create a slot in the ground when pressure is applied to the tread by foot. The spear is pushed into the ground and twisted to make a cylindrical hole. This method can only be used for cellular-grown trees, like this one.

If you are planting a monoculture for timber, then broadleaves may be planted very close to each other to reduce branching, less than 1.5m apart (>3,300 trees per hectare) and conifers at 2m apart (2,500 trees per hectare).

As mentioned, if planting for a pastoral landscape with grazed woodland, then trees could be spaced very wide apart, perhaps 10m (121 trees per hectare).

How to care for your trees

A tree’s roots will start to dry out immediately and start to die within two minutes of exposure to the air. The younger the tree, the more vulnerable it will be to the effects of drying. So remember to keep your trees’ roots moist and tightly wrapped in a bag at all times when planting.

If you’re not going to plant the trees in their final location within 24 hours of delivery, you need to take interim actions. For how to dig a heeling-in trench, see page 159

4 HOW TO PLANT A HEDGEROW

Planting individual trees in the hedgerow follows the same method as for single trees, however the layout is as below.

Method 1

Method 2

Method 3 How to add standard trees

A diverse hedgerow should also have standard trees every 10–20m. Trees in hedgerows provide song posts for birds, perches for raptors, establish flight lines for bats and allow those trees to bear seeds, increasing the diversity and density of the hedge over time.

To achieve this, plant the hedge and every 10–20m place a tree shelter on a tree, rather than a spiral guard. This will encourage the tree to grow taller, faster and straighter. It also identifies which tree is the standard tree.

To create a standard hedgerow, plant five plants per metre, like this:

To create a thicker hedgerow with standard trees, the same principle applies but additional rows of trees are added. See Method 3 for how to add standard trees.

HOW TO PROTECT YOUR TREES

There’s no point in planting trees if they’re not going to survive. So, as well as learning the correct technique and identifying the right place, it’s important to protect them from browsing animals. This includes wildlife such as deer, hares, rabbits and voles, and livestock, such as cattle, ponies, sheep and goats.

There are many different types of guards available today, depending on the likelihood and type of animal browsing. Many tree shelters are made of plastic or have a high plastic content. Thankfully, new sustainable alternatives are appearing. Look for guards that are as highly biodegradable as possible, yet will still do the job. There are some on the market that will not last long enough and therefore are a false economy.

Many plastic ones can now be recycled. Tubex has a recycling scheme for their tree shelters. Find out more at: tubex.com/recycling

If there’s a large area to protect, it may be more cost effective to simply fence the whole area using an appropriate type of fence to keep browsers out.

Alternatives to tree guards

There are alternative approaches to guarding, fencing or sheltering your trees. You can overplant an area with trees, or prepare the ground and either regularly sow with seed or wait for natural regeneration to occur. When you over plant, there’s no magic number you should aim for. However, Japanese botanist Akira Miyawaki developed a method where trees and shrubs are planted in enhanced soils at a

density up to 30 times more than conventional methods. This would equate to more than 30,000 trees for a hectare of native broadleaved woodland planted for conservation purposes. Planting in such numbers can be costly and time consuming, but the results show impressive tree development.

Using livestock, especially pigs, to ‘plough’ the ground works wonders to remove the vegetation before tree planting, but once the pigs have finished their work it’s important to sow the area with seeds quickly. Direct sowing into prepared ground can generate healthy woodland in 10 years, similar to planting.

Natural regeneration

Natural regeneration is a serious consideration. However, there needs to be a varied tree seed source nearby. No tree seed equals no trees. A dense grass sward or lots of bramble or bracken will also impede seeds reaching the earth and germinating. Areas such as this can take decades to establish a few trees. Natural regeneration with no intervention does work, but it takes far longer to establish woodland where there was none before. Also, if there are only a few tree species locally, then the diversity of that woodland will be very limited for a very long time.

HOW

TO INSTALL A SPIRAL GUARD AGAINST RABBITS

Step 1 Insert

Push a cane into the ground on the windward side of the tree until it ‘pings’ when pulled back.

Step 2 Wrap

Wrap the spiral guard around one main stem only (if multi stemmed) and allow branches to stick out.

HOW

TO INSTALL A TREE SHELTER AGAINST DEER

Step 1 Stake

Position a stake on the windward side of the tree, close to the tree but without damaging the roots.

Step 2 Measure

Hammer the stake into the ground until it ‘pings’ when pulled back. Alternatively, place a tube against the stake, and hammer the stake in until it is just above the height of the highest tie.

Step 3 Guide

Take a tube with the lipped end at the top. Guide it over the tree while guiding the first plastic tie over the stake. Make sure that no branches are caught in the tie inside the tube, and guide the second tie over the stake. Press the tube down firmly and pull the ties tight.

The Tree Council provides a useful summary of the pros and cons of using tree guards and shelters in ‘Protecting Young Trees – best choice for your planting project’.

Read it here: http://treecouncil.org.uk/wpcontent/uploads/2022/09/7.-PROTECTINGYOUNG-TREES-best-choice-for-your-plantingproject-September-2021.pdf

Gently winding on a spiral guard will protect your young tree from nibblers.

HOW TO NURTURE YOUR TREES

Once your trees are in the ground, it’s important to care for them to help them thrive, particularly in the first few years.

All woodlands and hedgerows require management no matter what their age. At first, this tends to be small scale and more frequent. Much later in life, woodlands may need to be thinned to create space for the stronger trees and promote natural regeneration, make wildlife improvements or maintain access. Hedgerows may need to be laid or coppiced to regenerate them, or simply trimmed to maintain their shape. In all cases, any timber produced can be used. Here are some basic management considerations.

Year 1–3

YEARS 1–3

Weed, water, mow, check tree guards, look for pests and monitor

In the first two summers after planting, depending on the number of trees planted, you will need to inspect each tree. If this isn’t feasible, then try to inspect at least 30%. Check trees are still alive (green leaves are a good indicator), that stakes and shelters remain firm, and that fences are still secure.

If specimen trees have been planted and are of

a larger size – for example, with a rootball and over 1.5m tall – they may require watering from April until October. They will have had many roots severed in the lifting and transplanting process, and are much more likely to suffer drought stress in the first summer or two.

While checking your trees, look for signs of damage caused by browsing animals. They may lean over tree shelters and nibble the tops off hedgerow trees (see image above). You should also look closely for signs of leaf diseases or insect infestations.

Consider if action is necessary or if the damage and losses may be acceptable. Remedial action should be taken if more than 10% of your trees are damaged or lost.

When checking your trees ensure they are not being smothered by other vegetation. If they are, then weeding, by hand or mechanically, can help your trees to grow. If you choose to mow or strim, be careful not to ‘run over’ your trees and check for hedgehogs first.

If losses after each summer in the first five years are greater than 10%, trees should be annually replaced to make up the numbers to the original stocking density.

YEARS 3–10

Remove tree guards, coppice, prune, watch for disease and monitor

After three years, trees should be establishing well and can largely be left to their own devices for a few more years. It’s worth leaving any shelters on at this stage. A tree’s bark is thin, and if shelters are removed and there are a series of winter frosts, rabbits – desperate for food while the ground is frozen – will chew the bark off the base of your trees.

After five years, hedgerows will be ready to have their guards removed. Some trees may also be ready, but this is more likely to be between seven and 10 years. Guards should be removed before the trees try to get rid of them by themselves! All guards should be collected and either composted, re-used or recycled.

If you’re planting a woodland for coppicing, after around five years single-stemmed trees such as hazel will need to be managed. Remove any protection and cut the stem about 50–75mm above ground level at an angle of 15–20o. Protect the cut stem from browsing animals until

A tree that has been heavily browsed by deer.

sufficient regrowth has occurred. If you want your trees to have long, clean trunks, remove any side branches, while retaining a full crown. Removing side branches when they are small reduces knots in the wood, creating higher quality timber. Do not remove more than a quarter of a tree’s canopy at any one time.

Pruning and protecting

From year five, hedgerows will benefit from pruning to thicken them up. However, annual pruning all over does not benefit the hedge or wildlife. Check any trees for damage from animals and disease.

As trees mature, they may suffer from bark stripping damage caused by grey squirrels. Controlling the squirrel population is the only way of preventing this, and it is time consuming and expensive. If grey squirrel damage is a problem in your area, consider planting trees that are less prone to damage, such as alder, birch, wild cherry or wych elm. Thin-barked trees such as beech, sycamore, hornbeam, sweet chestnut and even oak are most susceptible.

Grey squirrels strip bark from the trunks and branches of trees to feed on the nutritious sap beneath.

HELP AND ADVICE

Some excellent hedgerow pruning tips can be found on the People’s Trust for Endangered Species (PTES) website here: hedgerowsurvey.ptes.org/hedgemanagement-cycle

PTES have also created a Healthy Hedgerows app to help you manage your hedgerows: ptes.org

More information on hedgerows can be found on the Hedgelink website, a national partnership bringing together knowledge and ideas to manage and conserve UK hedgerows, here: hedgelink.org.uk

YEARS 10+

Manage your wood, including thinning

After 10 years, your woodland should have a closed canopy and be maturing fast. Hedgerows will be thick with growth and providing a wonderful habitat for wildlife.

Woodland may require some thinning out (removing the weaker trees to promote the stronger ones). After a woodland is 10 years old, this is normally carried out every five years, depending on the speed of growth.

The felled wood can be used for firewood, fencing, posts and so on. As the woodland matures then larger diameter timber has many other uses. Thinning to promote timber is a skilled job and

the services of a forester should be sought. But if you’re simply ‘opening’ the woodland, then remember to leave some wilder areas, standing and lying deadwood, open glades and access tracks. These add a range of habitats that are beneficial to wildlife. Removing trees in groups will create spaces for new trees to grow, either through natural regeneration or planting.

Hedgerows can be left to grow, depending on your primary objective. However, in time you may wish to lay your hedge. This is another skilled job that can be fun to learn from a professional.

The Forestry Commission provides a wide range of resources for forestry and tree health. See Useful Resources on page 268.

The Forestry Commission provides a wide range of resources for forestry and tree health. See Useful Resources on page 284.

These tree shelters are ready to be removed.

HOW TO SET UP AND RUN A COMMUNITY TREE NURSERY AT ALL SCALES

Now you know how rewarding it is to grow your own trees and set up a small Community Tree Nursery, we hope your ambitions grow. Our expert advice will help you scale up your efforts and run your nursery successfully.

An

How

CASE STUDIES

All Community Tree Nurseries are unique. These case studies illustrate how some different groups are coming together to grow trees from seed. They exemplify the diversity of projects from small to large, new to old, from back gardens to prisons. There’s no ‘one size fits all’ or best way to set up a Community Tree Nursery, just many wonderful ways of growing new trees. Most of these case studies happen to be located in southern England, but there are many inspiring Community Tree Nurseries across the UK.

With huge thanks to all the nurseries who have taken part.

HMPPS Nine locations across the UK

Moor Trees South Devon

Musketeers

Thames Chase Trust London

MOOR TREES TREE NURSERIES

“We love what we do and know we are making a difference!”

Moor Trees has a vision for a wilder Dartmoor where woodlands form part of a mosaic of restored natural habitats and co-exist with farming, archaeology and recreation. Starting out as a network of about 14 small nurseries, Moor Trees has established two larger (0.5 hectare) nurseries in Broadley and Dartington. One is on land owned by a former trustee with a peppercorn rent and the other is rented from an estate at a low rate. The charity is led by a Chief Executive and supported by a Fundraising Manager. The equivalent of 1.5 full-time staff tend to the trees each day. There is a Tree Nursery Officer, who is assisted by a Volunteer Engagement Officer and a part-time Operations Co-ordinator. About 30 volunteers help with seed collection, growing and planting on regular volunteer days

KEY INFORMATION

Established: 1999

Location: Two nurseries in south Devon, near Totnes. Broadley Tree Nursery is on a farm one mile from Diptford. Dartington Tree Nursery is just outside Totnes.

Managed by: Moor Trees, an independent charity dedicated to restoring native woodland across Dartmoor and south Devon.

Produces: 15,000 native broadleaf whips a year, with plans to expand to 20,000–25,000 per year, with 60,000 on site at any one time (growing for up to three years). Trees are both bare root and cell grown.

Output: Trees are sold for woodland planting, hedgerow creation and restoration schemes. Find out more: moortrees.org

“Knowing I’ve helped grow, supply and plant over 60,000 trees in five years is one of the most rewarding things I’ve ever done.” Adam Owen

Young trees are protected from wildlife in raised cages

MOOR TREES TREE NURSERY LAYOUT

Water baths for wet-loving species

Solar panel array for lighting and power, including irrigation

Single pitch timber building provides secure storage and covered workspace. Rainwater is harvested from roof and caught in large containers plumbed in series behind the building, which provide water for irrigation.

Raised tables to place root trainers on. Wire mesh caging protects trees from squirrels. Netting provides shade

Stratification troughs for breaking seed dormancy

Small polytunnel for storage of dry materials

Office / tea hut

This aerial photo shows the layout of the Moor Trees nursery in Devon

Bare-root beds with shade netting

Polytunnel

Compost heap and space for deliveries

Hand wash and cleaning station with mains water

Compost toilet

Perimeter is fenced to prevent damage by deer and rabbits

Gated entrance

Access road

Plant quarantine area

Mesh provides shade and protects newly planted seedlings from pests

Canes are used to mark planting lines when planting seedlings

Beds are 1.2m wide and used for growing bare-root trees

(of which there are three per week). There tends to be more volunteers in winter (even up to 100) to help with planting events, and Moor Trees uses social media, especially Facebook, to organise volunteer days and events.

To ensure they get orders for trees, Moor Trees offer to source protection for trees and to fulfil demand they buy in species from other nurseries that they can’t grow themselves.

The charity is a member of UK and Ireland Sourced and Grown (UKISG), which allows it to supply trees to the Woodland Trust.

Newly planted bed of hawthorn seedlings

DIVERSIFYING INCOME STREAMS

In addition to selling trees, Moor Trees supports itself by:

n Giving advice on grant applications and woodland design. Advice is free for small projects, but is charged for larger projects involving other grant schemes.

n Planting trees.

n Running corporate volunteer days.

n Offering carbon mitigation.

n Applying for grants and securing donations.

n Offering tree dedications.

MOOR TREES’ TOP TIPS FOR GROWING STRONG AND HEALTHY TREES

1. Collect a lot of seeds

Each year, Moor Trees collects about 500,000 local tree seeds to grow in our community tree nurseries. You may want to collect a range of local seeds or just concentrate on a few species. Germination rates vary between species and from year to year – so don’t be disappointed if they don’t all germinate.

3. Keep track of your seeds…

Labelling and record keeping are important to ensure traceability and to meet Forest Reproductive Materials regulations if needed. Moor Trees documents the species, collection year and collection location for all of the seeds and trees in the nursery. We use a coding system –for example, alder collected in Newbridge in 2019 is AL NB 19.

2. Protect your seeds and trees

In the past, we have lost whole beds of newly planted acorns overnight. We now put a lot of effort into protecting our seeds from voles and squirrels, which will go for the seeds even once the tree is growing. Seeds that are stratified outside are protected in covered baths or animal feed troughs. Seeds growing in root trainers are set on caged benches, built with scaffolding poles (voles can climb up wood).

4. ...and your trees

Each planting bed is labelled with simple plant tags. As trees are moved around the nursery, a plan on a whiteboard is updated. Each bundle of trees that leaves the nursery has a handwritten label, and everything is also recorded in a spreadsheet.

Moor Trees’ branded vehicle

TREE MUSKETEERS

“Our catchphrase is ‘All for trees and trees for all’. We grow, plant and care for trees in Hackney.”

The best time to plant a tree is 20 years ago and the next best time is now, as the saying goes. We did plant trees 20 years ago and we have continued doing so, learning every year, every decade. Over that time, we’ve planted more than 1,000 standard trees [large saplings] and many thousands of whips [small saplings] in Hackney’s parks.” Russell Miller

Over 20 years ago, the Hackney Marshes User Group secured permission from Hackney Borough Council to grow trees on a one-hectare, unused putting green. Their aim: to plant, care for and protect trees in the local area, because they were concerned that too much urban tree planting ultimately fails due to lack of sufficient aftercare.

Due to this goal, the Tree Musketeers grow much larger trees than most Community Tree Nurseries. Most of their trees are semi-standard size, so they are normally between 1–2.5m and between four–10 years old when they leave the nursery. Less stock is grown, because larger trees take up more space than smaller whips. About 200 new trees are grown each year with approximately 1,000 in the nursery at any time. Most of the trees (about 100 a year) are planted in parks or other green spaces around Hackney. A tree nursery volunteer, explains: “We work

KEY INFORMATION

Established: 2000

Location: Hackney, London

Managed by: Volunteers

Produces: Semi standard trees (between 1–2.5m and four–10 years old), including non-natives.

Output: About 100 trees a year are donated to Hackney Council, others are donated to community groups or sold to individuals. Find out more: www.treemusketeers.org.uk

“The Community Tree Nursery is incredible and does so much to create and sustain our local biodiversity.”

Philip Glanville, Mayor of Hackney

Trees are placed on wooden planks to ensure good drainage and reduce the risk of diseases, such as Phytophthora ramorum

Air-Pots are good for root development and easy to dismantle when it’s time to plant the tree out

TREES FOR HACKNEY

As well as growing trees, the Tree Musketeers work with local communities to plant and care for trees in Hackney. This includes:

n Supporting local groups to plant trees in parks and other green spaces across Hackney, such as community gardens and estates;

n Planting and caring for Hackney community orchards;

n Watering trees until their roots are established;

n Managing forest trees in Wick Woodland;

n Providing memorial and sponsored tree plantings;

n Working with Hackney Council and other community organisations to promote good practices for urban tree stewardship.

closely with the Hackney Borough Council parks maintenance teams and user groups to learn which species they want planted. This informs what we grow in the nursery.

We focus on species that can cope better with climate change and the urban heat island effect [when cities experience warmer temperatures due to replacing natural land cover with surfaces that absorb and retain heat.]

We also grow rare or unusual, often non-native

The Tree Musketeers use Air-Pots, which are designed to stimulate a mass of healthy, fibrous roots. Made from recycled plastic, Air-Pots are reusable and last many years.

species to increase diversity, such as elms, black poplar, grafted fruit trees, black walnut, cockspur thorns, Mediterranean oaks and other exotic ornamental trees.”

Seeds are collected by volunteers from around Hackney and from parks and gardens further afield. The Tree Musketeers have learned how best to germinate different species and have set up a polytunnel with a mist system for propagation. Cages protect the newly planted seeds from squirrels. All trees are grown in big containers to ensure a well-developed root system, as this helps trees establish well with less need for aftercare. This is better for the trees and less costly for the

planet in terms of water and carbon.

The Tree Musketeers say they are “more a way of being than an organisation.” They rely on volunteers and have never had any staff. Numbers of volunteers fluctuate – “on planting days, we might have 20 people come along” – but there are currently about 30 regulars supervised by about six volunteer co-ordinators. Open volunteering sessions are run every Wednesday and Friday. As well as the tree nursery, there is a forest garden and orchards, fungi and herb beds and an apiary of beehives. The Tree Musketeers run regular open days offering tours and talks and hold training sessions on tree planting.

THAMES CHASE TRUST TREE NURSERY

“We believe that all people should be able to enjoy the benefits that nature has to offer”

Thames Chase Trust aims to make the Thames Chase Community Forest an inspirational example of landscape regeneration that benefits both people and wildlife. Key to the project is working with local communities to restore the landscape in east London and south Essex, and ensure that access to the countryside is improved for local people and visitors.

The Community Tree Nursery was established about 30 years ago to support local-provenance planting by local people in the new Community Forest. Being next to the Forest Centre, the nursery benefits from the facilities there –including toilets, a visitor centre, a café, and offices. The nursery has a focus on education and often hosts paid trips from youth groups, schools and even birthday parties. “It’s a great place to learn about outdoor activities. The volunteers

KEY INFORMATION

Established: About 1990

Location: Thames Chase Forest Centre, Upminster. The nursery is very close to the M25.

Managed by: Thames Chase Trust, a charity managing and promoting the Thames Chase Community Forest. They also own the land.

Produces: 1,000–2,000 native trees per year, bare rooted and in pots. These are typically between three and five years old at the point of sale.

Output: Local organisations, groups, country parks, local councils and charities can buy large numbers of trees by placing their orders in advance and collecting them from the nursery. Visitors to the Forest Centre can also buy individual trees in pots.

Find out more: www.thameschase.org.uk/ visitor-centres/the-forest-centre/ community-tree-nursery

“It’s so good to see so many young people engaged with nature and learning about the structure of our natural world. It has been a pleasure teaching them.” Jill Luff, volunteer

Thames Chase Trust Tree Nursery

made our Beaver Group visits enjoyable and engaging. and we received some lovely feedback,” said Beaver leader Caron Tull.

Native tree seeds are collected locally from the Community Forest, other local woods and country parks. The team don’t cold stratify the seeds, preferring to put them straight into pots to wait out the winter months. The nursery can hold about 4,000–5,000 trees at a time; they can grow 500–600 trees in a 6x1m bed.

Tree sales cover the basic running costs of the nursery, such as compost, tools and pots, but aren’t sufficient to cover staff costs or larger items like fencing. So the team applies for grant money to cover these outgoings. Over the years

funding has been intermittent and has dictated the operation and output of the nursery.

Dedicated volunteers have been essential in keeping the nursery going for so long. Currently, there are about eight regular volunteers and a lead volunteer. On average, their work equates to 20 hours a week, slightly more than the 15 hours a week they have found are needed to be sustainable. Most volunteers are also involved with other projects run by Thames Chase Trust. There’s no irrigation at the nursery, so the volunteers have to water the trees by hand, using six water butts, sometimes daily in the summer. They do have a nearby tap and hose, but try to avoid using it to save water.

THAMES CHASE TRUST’S TOP TIPS FOR RUNNING A NURSERY

1. Establish a regular volunteer group and a schedule everyone can stick to That way, volunteers can become familiar with the routine, and know they can trust it. Never cancel, even if only one person turns up.

2. Write down protocols for how things are done to help ensure the long-term continuity of the nursery. This should include regular tasks to complete, how to co-ordinate volunteers, project partners and so on. The current tree nursery lead may not always be available to advise!

3. Network to share information and resources. It’s better to collaborate with other community tree nurseries than to compete with them!

4. A reliable water supply is important, especially during summer heatwaves. Watering during the early morning or late evening is most efficient.

5. Keep good records. In particular, keep track of:

n The locations of trees where you regularly collect seeds from;

n The number of trees in the nursery at any time and the trees that are ready for sale;

n Who trees have been sold to and where they went (if they weren’t sold to an individual);

n Volunteer hours (this is often handy when applying for grants);

n Specific tasks that need to be completed at certain times of year, such as seed collecting in autumn, compost spreading in spring, pruning in winter, and so on.

‘Dalek’-style compost bins

Raised beds made of sleepers

Thames Chase sells plants in pots directly to the public

Hard standing paths

Some trees are grown in pots

Perimeter fencing includes rabbit wire

Seating for volunteers

MORE TREES BATH AND NORTH EAST SOMERSET

“We have so much fun, getting our hands dirty, meeting new people whilst spending time in the great outdoors.”

More Trees BANES (Bath and North East Somerset) is a not-for-profit, community-based organisation that grows, plants and cares for trees in the local area. Set up in 2008, today it is a network of Community Tree Nurseries that are supported by a central nursery known as the Hub. The processing of seeds and growing on the germinated seedlings takes place in the Hub. Once the seedlings are 10–15cm tall, they are distributed across a network of nurseries. Here they are grown on for one to two years until they are ready to be planted out. Locations for planting and tree sales are organised centrally from the Hub where, at the moment, there are two parttime paid positions – a manager and a volunteer coordinator.

At the Hub, volunteer sessions are run every Thursday. Seeds that need stratifying are put in a fridge on-site. Nuts are planted straight into root trainers and then put in cages for protection against wildlife.

The network so far includes 17 Community Tree Nurseries. At each site, the volunteers usually get together once a week to tackle tasks

KEY INFORMATION

Established: 2008

Location: A network of nurseries across Bath and North East Somerset.

Managed by: More Trees (Bath and North East Somerset) is a charity that grows, plants and cares for trees in their local area.

Produces: This year, 1,000 trees have been produced – mainly native and bare root. Over the next two years, they plan to expand to produce 15,000 trees a year.

Output: Trees are planted locally, usually within 10 miles of where the seeds are collected. At the moment, planting sites are often suggested by funders. Tree giveaways (where donations are encouraged) are arranged for all the remaining trees, which mainly go to non-profit organisations, individual gardeners and small landholders.

Find out more: moretrees.earth

“Our unique model of having a central hub with satellite community and school-based nurseries means we can support and engage a wide range of people in the art of growing, planting and caring for trees.” Sandra Tuck

All photos by Neil Aldridge MORE TREES (BANES)

Everything Bath Hub has

The processing of seeds and growing on the germinated seedlings takes place in the Hub

SANDRA TUCK’S TOP TIPS FOR COLLECTING SEEDS

1. Use maps to plan your activity

We find Magic maps very helpful for identifying sites where we can collect tree seeds. View them here: magic.defra.gov.uk/ magicmap.aspx

2. Think about accessibility

We offer car sharing if people can’t easily get to a site themselves.

3. Inform and reassure landowners

It’s important to secure permission from a landowner before collecting seeds on their property. We send out a good practice guide with our request for permission. This includes reassuring information about our high standards of practice and how we would collect the seeds. For example, we collect a maximum of 10% of the seeds from each tree so its natural regeneration is not depleted, we’re always careful where we walk, and we clean our boots before and after collecting seeds to avoid spreading pests and pathogens.

4. Do a recce first

If you’re expecting a large group of volunteers to help collect seeds, recce the site first to identify the best locations, where there are plenty of seeds to collect. We usually limit numbers of volunteers – five or six is a good group size – for such activities.

5. Explore woodland edges and rides

The best places for collecting seeds are woodland edges and rides. In the middle of the wood, there’s not much seed and it’s often so high up on the trees, you can’t reach it.

6. Check the development of any seeds you plan to harvest

Before doing a volunteer collection, check the readiness of some of the seeds – for example, give beech nuts a squeeze to check they aren’t empty. If berries feel squishy, then they are normally ready to collect.

7. Get plenty of help with seed processing

Seed processing is quite a time-consuming job and you’ll need lots of hands on deck to make sure your seeds don’t go to waste.

8. Be flexible

When you visit a woodland, keep your eyes open and collect whatever seeds are ripe, rather than just what you planned in advance.

The Hub is based at the Urban Garden, a garden centre and social enterprise that hosts the Community Tree Nursery’s activities

More Trees set up a nursery with Bath MIND’s eco-therapy group offering people the chance to connect with nature, grow food, socialise and improve their wellbeing

Members can get involved in planning, gardening and site maintenance, or can simply enjoy a cup of tea in the tranquil garden

“I can’t believe how many trees we’ve grown in just a year – and none of us have ever done it before!” Rosie, volunteer

ranging from weeding and watering to planting and moving trees. Each nursery is run differently: the aim is for the nurseries to be as independent as possible. Training, advice, tools, materials, support and information are provided to help the group manage the nursery themselves. At some nurseries, there is an existing community group.

The main types of nursery are:

n New nurseries set up on private land

For example, Walnut Springs in Combe Down, which has capacity to grow up to 1,000 trees. For these sites, volunteers are recruited and a new nursery based group is created.

n Existing community groups with volunteers For example, the Somerdale Shed at the Chocolate Quarter in Keynsham. The Shed is for people looking to make connections and do practical projects. They have a large, accessible, raised bed that is used to grow trees, and capacity for around 350 trees.

n Schools

Currently six schools are involved, and each has up to two new raised beds to grow trees.

One of the tree nurseries is at Bath MIND’s eco-therapy group, Greenlinks, at Monksdale Allotments. This project offers people the opportunity to connect with nature to improve their health and wellbeing. As well as gardening and growing food, the project is now also growing trees. More Trees ran seed-processing sessions with the volunteers here, and they have really enjoyed working with the seeds, growing trees and, recently, lifting them out and preparing them for planting out.

“Lifting the trees was incredibly satisfying and fun. I can’t believe how many trees we’ve grown in just a year, and none of us have ever done it before!” said Rosie, part of the therapy group.

Members make a real contribution towards helping our natural environment

Bath Mind grows vegetables everyone can enjoy

SUFFOLK TREE WARDEN NETWORK TREE NURSERIES

“Every volunteer is so passionate and committed, I think this comes from the conviction that we are doing something positive for the environment and landscape of Suffolk.”

Suffolk’s Tree Wardens have deep roots. For more than 30 years, they have planted, cared for and championed trees. Today, the Suffolk Tree Warden Network runs a countywide network of tree nurseries. Currently there are approximately 40 sites around Suffolk where volunteer ‘Tree Nurses’ grow trees.

The nurseries range from schools, gardens and a community-supported farm. The larger nurseries enable Tree Nurses who don’t have their own growing space to get involved. Some Tree Nurses have simply turned over part of their back gardens to create thriving tree nurseries. Seeds are collected locally, predominantly from ancient and veteran trees.

Members of the tree nursery group support each other. They hold regular online meetings, invite external experts to participate, and share their own evolving ideas and experience via a WhatsApp group. Help is always available and, thanks to past funding from Suffolk County Council, budding Tree Nurses can be supplied with everything they need to get started such as modular trays, pots, peat-free compost, shade netting, protective mesh, and even seeds if people cannot collect their own.

KEY INFORMATION

Established: 2020

Location: A network of nurseries across Suffolk Managed by: Suffolk Tree Warden Network

Produces: Last year, 5,000 native or naturalised trees were grown. Trees are primarily cell grown but some nurseries grow bare root.

Output: Trees are supplied free of charge to local community planting projects across Suffolk, but also directly to farmers, landowners, and environmental groups. Where possible, trees are distributed within or near the parish in which the seed was sourced.

Find out more: www.suffolktreewardens.org.uk

“We are lucky to have some highly experienced members who have been growing trees from seed for more than 40 years.” Fe Morris

Greenberg-Simmonds

These water containers have been up-cycled by young entrepreneur Harry Daly. This unique growing system sold as HarryBeds™ can be filled with good compost and transported to the right location. It has been used at several nurseries, farms and schools.

SAVING OUR NATIVE BLACK POPLARS

With around 10,000 black poplars left in the country, the Suffolk Tree Wardens aim to restore the fortunes of this important native tree.

The black poplar was once a staple of Britain’s landscape, but today these elegant trees are few and far between. According to the Forestry Commission, the species is the most endangered native timber tree in Britain. Black poplars grow best in boggy conditions, near ditches and floodplains. But there are so few wild trees left that it’s unlikely they will pollinate each other.

Suffolk Tree Nurses are working with staff at the Dedham Vale Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and Nowton Park, Bury St. Edmunds, to help manage their native black poplar clone bank and use the trees grown there as the basis for their own native black poplar nursery.

Tree Nurse David Appleton says, “We’ve used cuttings from trees that have been genetically tested to make sure they’ve not hybridised with other poplars. This careful work will enable us to supply Tree Wardens and landowners with true (non-hybridised) native black poplars

for their new plantings. We’re recording the precise location of each newly planted sapling, and sharing this information with the Suffolk Biodiversity Information Service to record on the black poplar database.”

Battell

HIS MAJESTY’S PRISON AND PROBATION SERVICE

TREE NURSERIES

Tree nurseries in nine English prisons aim to grow 200,000 trees, teach participants valuable skills and help them secure jobs on release.

The wellbeing and rehabilitation of prisoners are two important elements of His Majesty’s Prison and Probation Service tree nurseries. Research from prisons that offer outdoor and gardening projects shows that these programmes can have significant benefits for the wellbeing of participants, improving their confidence and motivation.

Prisoners also receive training in how to grow trees from instructors on site and can gain horticulture qualifications as part of their City & Guilds accredited training. This can help them to find jobs after they’re released, which in turn reduces the likelihood of them reoffending. This scheme aims to plant trees on nearby land with the help of community payback, establishing a link to the local community for the prisoners who, after their release, will be able to visit the area of woodland they’ve helped to create.

Up to 10 prisoners per site are engaging in the project. Prisoners employed in prison garden departments are able to get involved with the tree nurseries alongside their other day-to-day duties, such as growing fresh produce for the prison kitchens and tending the grounds. Seeds are purchased rather than collected

KEY INFORMATION

Established: 2021

Location: Nine men’s and women’s prisons across England

Managed by: Prison staff as part of their normal roles. One nationwide coordinator with a background in horticulture provides guidance to prison staff and buys in materials and equipment for the individual nurseries.

Produces: Cell-grown trees in root trainers from seeds sourced in the UK. In the first year of operation, 100,000 trees were grown. In the second year, this increased to 200,000, and they aim to maintain this number.

Output: Initially, trees will be planted on government land including His Majesty’s Prison and Probation Service land. They will not be sold to the public.

“The tree nursery project has a positive effect on prisoner and staff wellbeing. We are proud to be part of something that future generations can enjoy and benefit from.” David Barnatt, Specialist Instructor in Commercial Horticulture

HMP Huntercombe in Oxfordshire

Wych elm are grown in HMP

North Sea Camp in Lincolnshire

to ensure all the correct Forest Reproductive Materials certification is in place.

In the first year, seeds were stratified in fridges on site, but they’re now purchased pre-stratified to reduce the demands placed on prison staff on top of their normal roles.

Some larger seeds such as acorns are sown directly into root trainers. Most germinate in propagators in modular cells or seed trays in greenhouses. They are then transplanted into root trainers and grown on in netted tunnels, which provide shelter from wind and sun for the young trees until they are ready for planting out.

A range of herbaceous perennials are grown from seed as part of the prisoners City & Guilds NVQ Level 1 training course

The nurseries were initially set up with funding from Defra and are now funded by the Ministry of Justice. Trees will be planted on the prison estate, filling gaps in deteriorating woodlands. Trees are also offered to other government departments with landholdings. In 2023, trees are being grown specifically for the Ministry of Defence who have chosen the species. The process of finding planting sites is managed centrally for all the nurseries –some grow a range of species, while others just focus on a couple. The nurseries are all part of the Woodland Trust’s UK and Ireland Sourced and Grown Assurance Scheme (UKISG).

Bedding plants are grown on in the glasshouse for planting around the extensive grounds at North Sea Camp

Wych elms are grown in root trainers up to 60cm

A large glasshouse at HMP North Sea Camp in Lincolnshire

Shade tunnels protect growing trees at HMP Humber in Yorkshire

Sitka spruce germinate at HMP Woodhill in Milton Keynes

LITTLE ASSYNT TREE NURSERY

“From tiny acorns not just mighty oaks grow, but whole new forests of native trees. Fifty years from now, our tiny whips will provide a forest, home to hundreds of other species of plants, animals and fungi.”

Little Assynt Tree Nursery was set up in 2012, as part of The Coigach & Assynt Living Landscape Partnership Scheme (a collaboration of landowners in the area), in response to a need for more trees for local woodland planting projects.

Nursery Manager Nick Clooney had the challenging task of establishing the nursery from scratch in a field that boasted great views of the mountains, but had no mains water or power. The site is now connected to the grid and water is sourced from a stream, with internet and phone connections via satellite. Fortunately, the land lies in a hollow, which offers some muchneeded protection from the worst of the Scottish elements, and it’s leased at a peppercorn rent. Nick, and an assistant on a temporary contract, work at the nursery 28 hours a week. The Scottish Wildlife Trust provides them with additional support in administration, finance and marketing.

The nursery currently sells about 60,000 trees every year. They are UKISG certified and come with Plant Passports. All stock is often sold out by the end of August, perhaps partly due to there being so few nurseries in the area. A recurring

KEY INFORMATION

Established: 2012

Location: The far northwest of Scotland, five miles east of Lochinver.

Managed by: The Scottish Wildlife Trust.

Produces: 60,000 bare-root and cell-grown whips a year, with plans to double production and become financially self-sufficient.

Output: Trees are sold for both large and small projects, mainly for woodland planting. Find out more: bit.ly/413baXT

“Knowing you’ve played a small part in growing a tree that may live for 200 years or more is really satisfying.” Nigel, Volunteer

Young trees in the field beds are inspected. The view beyond the nursery includes blanket bog and heathland on the slopes, which may one day become a mosaic of habitats with new woodlands being planted.

challenge is overselling. This can occur when young trees fail to grow to a height suitable for sale in their first season, or need to fill out their roots a bit more before planting out. Once they’ve been checked and approved for sale, they are bagged and sent out to customers.

Dedicated volunteers provide invaluable support – some have been helping at the nursery for eight years! They assist with seed gathering, growing, and grading the trees to identify suitable stock for sale. Short, dark winter days are brightened no end by a bit of friendly chatter and a brew at cup-of-tea time.

Despite the rewarding experience, due to the remoteness of the location, attracting new volunteers to Little Assynt nursery can be difficult. In the past, working holidays organised by the John Muir Trust provided about 12 extra pairs of hands at the busiest times of year.

Local-provenance trees are grown in cells and field beds and provided to planting projects, both small and landscape scale

Volunteers help the team collect seeds locally, from rowan, birch, dog rose, hazel, oak, alder, juniper and holly, among others. They collect seeds from as many different trees as possible to ensure good genetic diversity and to avoid stripping any trees bare. Nuts, berries and seeds are an important source of food for wildlife.

Indeed, the diversity of life that trees support –as a source of food, habitat and shelter – is one of the main reasons the nursery grows them.

“Local provenance is very important because the climate in northwest Scotland is totally different to other areas of UK,” explains Nick.

“Many tree species are on the edge of their range here, and specially adapted to local conditions. Collecting local seeds and growing them on here means that when the new owners plant these trees out, they do far better than those brought in from other areas.”

FOLLOW A TREE THROUGH THE NURSERY

1. Stratify

Most seed is stratified outside in pots in a stratification mix. Pots are kept in a lidded box to protect them against pests. Hazelnuts are put into fish boxes (plastic trays used on trawlers) in layers with sand and compost, and acorns are sown into outdoor seedbeds immediately. A few seeds, such as alder, are put into the fridge for a brief period in spring.

3. Transplant

Once the tree seedlings are large enough, they are transplanted into deep root trainers. These are then placed outside on benches or matting, or directly into seedbeds.

2. Sow

In spring, most seeds are sown into seed trays – larger ones are planted straight into root trainers. They are kept in tunnels for a few weeks to establish. Some broadleaved species are sown into outdoor seedbeds.

4. Grade

Every winter, trees are graded for sale. Some trees might be tall enough, but they may still be rejected if their roots have not grown enough to fill their root trainer, or they are very thin. Any bare-root trees remaining in the nursery are transferred to a new bed – this prevents the tap root from getting too long to dig up easily. Cell-grown trees are either left in their cells or planted in lines into outdoor beds in a field, to be grown on for another year.

SALHOUSE COMMUNITY TREE NURSERY

“I’m just a man who wants to encourage tree planting, to leave a positive and lasting legacy”

Iset up the Salhouse Community Tree Nursery to remove barriers to planting trees in the local area by offering trees and shrubs for free, while giving people a way to volunteer and contribute to the local environment. It’s been enjoyable and demanding but very rewarding.” James Cleaver

Salhouse Community Tree Nursery has two sites – Home and Farm. The Home site is at James’ house, where he has a greenhouse and cell-grown trees sit on benches made of pallets and old blocks in his back garden. The Farm site is about 2km away, where a local farmer allows James to use a plot of his land for free. Here, he grows bare-root trees and there is a container for water and an electric fence with a solar panel for energy.

James collects most of his seeds locally, but he also buys in seeds for species he cannot source locally such as whitebeam and wild service, if he doesn’t have the opportunity to collect the seeds of certain species, or if there’s no seeds available. Collection can often be a case of feast or famine!

The nursery encourages local people who are interested in the environment to get involved in tree planting. James runs volunteer sessions

KEY INFORMATION

Established: December 2020

Location: Salhouse, the Broads, Norfolk

Managed by: James Cleaver, who works full time as a quantity surveyor and runs the nursery in his spare time.

Produces: About 1,000 whips a year – a mix of bare-root and cell-grown whips.

Output: Trees are not sold, they are given for free to local residents, groups and landowners. James works with groups to encourage tree planting, including drawing up tree planting plans for village halls, schools and landowners.

Find out more: www.facebook.com/ salhousecommunitytreenursery

“Running a Community Tree Nursery takes time, but growing trees is such an amazing thing to do. I really feel like we are making a difference!” James Cleaver

At his home, James grows trees in his back garden in pots and root trainers

CASE STUDY

At the Farm site, the farmer fills up water containers from the mains

Electric fencing protects James’ tender young trees from deer damage

Netting provides shade. It is supported by water pipes

WHAT DOES IT COST?

Here’s a handy guide to the approximate costs of running Salhouse nursery, at the Home and Farm sites, including donated materials:

FARM NURSERY

Blue water pipe (50m x 25mm)

Watering lance

Bags

at weekends, which he promotes via the local Broadland Tree Warden Network, his Facebook page, local community Facebook Groups and the local parish magazine. The sessions are usually attended by between two and six people. Volunteers help with collecting and processing seeds, and growing and planting trees. The nursery received early funding to get

Initially James used his fridge to stratify seeds. However, when he started running out of space for food, he devised a new system. He built a wooden storage cupboard in a cool, shady area of his garden with mesh on the outside to protect the seeds from mice. When ready, the seeds are taken out and put into root trainers or propagation trays.

started from Broadland District Council through the Broadland Tree Warden Network. Since then, the nursery has become independent and is now funded through some personal investment from James, donations of materials from volunteers and businesses, and some grant funding from Norfolk County Council. The approximate costs of running the nursery over the past two years are shown in the box (right).

James says: “Running a Community Tree Nursery takes lots of my time – and the time of our amazing volunteers – but growing trees is such an amazing thing to do and I really feel like we are making a difference! It can be challenging but, like nature, we learn and persist!”

HOME NURSERY

Nematodes autumn treatment

Compost

Bags and labels for seeds

Zip ties £17

Pallets and blocks, collected for free £0

Root trainers (50x 32 deep cell trays) £220 Root trainers, 500 maxi £0 (donated)

UNDERSTANDING BIOSECURITY

“I soon realised the importance of biosecurity, because it only takes a couple of mistakes and you can quickly do more harm than good,” says James Cleaver.

Initially, James at Salhouse Community Tree Nursery found the breadth and complexity of biosecurity overwhelming. He’s been working hard to understand how to achieve an appropriate level of protection for the nursery without needing a degree in biology!

Studying the Plant Healthy biosecurity modules available online (planthealthy.org.uk), it became clear that, while it might not be possible to eliminate all biosecurity risks, they can be reduced effectively by adopting certain measures. These include using clean tap water, using PAS 100 commercially processed compost to minimise the risk of soil-borne diseases, understanding and minimising pest pathways, and cleaning footwear when entering the nursery.

With the help of Plant Healthy, James developed a site and pest risk analysis for both the Home and Farm sites to determine what actions he needed to take. This example is specific to James’ site and included as an example only since every nursery will be different.

First, James identified how pests and diseases may move into, around and out of the nursery (right). Then he looked at each of these pathways and worked out an appropriate level of protection (next page).

Second, he searched the UK Plant Health Risk Register to find out which pests and diseases might be a problem for the species he grows. The

register covers everything from trees to fuchsias and potatoes, and is available as a downloadable file. Visit planthealthportal.defra.gov.uk/pestsand-diseases/uk-plant-health-risk-register

James created a personalised risk register for the nursery by filtering and sorting columns according to their risk rating. He recommends other Community Tree Nurseries take the Plant Healthy modules to understand biosecurity.

You can find free templates and a selfassessment tool here: planthealthy.org.uk

The alarming rise of tree diseases, pests and pathogens in recent years poses a risk to trees everywhere, so nurseries must take precautions to prevent the introduction and spread of harmful organisms. Moor Trees has a boot cleaning station at the nursery entrance. Many volunteers also have footwear they only wear at the nursery and leave there.

EXPLAINED: IDENTIFYING PATHWAYS FOR PESTS

Plant Healthy provides a self-assessment tool that will help you identify what your nursery can do to prevent tree pests and diseases from establishing and spreading. Here’s an example from Salhouse nursery.

(drainage)

pots, packaging material and other items

dieback, Phytophthora ramorum and oak processionary moth)

– pests and diseases (particularly oomycetes such as Phytophthoras)

– plant pests can proliferate and

– pests and diseases can spread from the sites on waste material as eggs or resting spores

Assess seed-collection sites for the presence of the notifiable diseases that are set out in the Salhouse nursery pest risk register. Always follow seed-collection protocol.

Monitor seeds for signs of pest and disease and contain, assess and act as required (for example, report, treat or destroy safely).

Monitor seeds for signs of pest and disease and contain, assess and act as required (for example, report, treat or destroy safely).

Salhouse Community Tree Nursery does not purchase plant material to grow on and does not accept plant material or plants from external sources.

Salhouse Community Tree Nursery does not purchase plant material to grow on and does not accept plant material or plants from external sources.

Clean using suitable sterilisation technique and / or use new propagation trays and pots.

Purchase growing media from reputable supplier with a biosecurity policy that states any growing media has been treated appropriately (for example, PAS 100).

Purchase growing media from reputable supplier with a biosecurity policy that states any growing media has been treated appropriately (for example, PAS 100).

Directly imported pallets are not used at Salhouse Community Tree Nursery. Any pallets used will be checked for signs of plant pests, such as signs of exit holes etc. Only pallets with heat treatment markings will be brought into the nursery.

Directly imported pallets are not used at Salhouse Community Tree Nursery. Any pallets used will be checked for signs of plant pests, such as signs of exit holes etc. Only pallets with heat treatment markings will be brought into the nursery.

Little packaging material is received at Salhouse Community Tree Nursery. All items deemed to present a risk to be checked.

Little packaging material is received at Salhouse Community Tree Nursery. All items deemed to present a risk to be checked.

Mains water is used. The likelihood of pests or diseases being circulated in irrigation is therefore low.

Mains water is used. The likelihood of pests or diseases being circulated in irrigation is therefore low.

Ensure that all tools, equipment and machinery are cleaned using an appropriate sterilisation technique.

Ensure that all tools, equipment and machinery are cleaned using an appropriate sterilisation technique.

Communicate cleanliness standards to all people that visit the two sites. Ensure all footwear and vehicles are assessed and treated accordingly. Boot-washing facilities are provided on the Farm nursery site.

Communicate cleanliness standards to all people that visit the two sites. Ensure all footwear and vehicles are assessed and treated accordingly. Boot-washing facilities are provided on the Farm nursery site.

Remain vigilant for pests and diseases that are spread via the wider landscape. Report any suspicious symptoms or identified notifiable pests to the relevant authorities. Be particularly aware of pests that may spread from plants cultivated on the Salhouse community tree nursery sites. It is acknowledged that some pests will spread, irrespective of Salhouse procedures.

Remain vigilant for pests and diseases that are spread via the wider landscape. Report any suspicious symptoms or identified notifiable pests to the relevant authorities. Be particularly aware of pests that may spread from plants cultivated on the Salhouse community tree nursery sites. It is acknowledged that some pests will spread, irrespective of Salhouse procedures.

Site is freely draining with no puddling on either of the two sites.

Assess waste storage and management systems for potential to harbour and proliferate plant pests. Be cautious about use of recycled compost and ensure that suspect waste plant material, growing media and packaging are suitably stored and disposed of.

Assess waste storage and management systems for potential to harbour and proliferate plant pests. Be cautious about use of recycled compost and ensure that suspect waste plant material, growing media and packaging are suitably stored and disposed of.

Assess waste storage and management systems for potential to harbour plant pests. Ensure that waste material is suitably stored and disposed of.

SHELFHANGER COMMUNITY TREE NURSERY

“All our work is for the benefit of the local community, so the last thing I want to do is risk spreading pests and diseases!”

Jen Aves created the Shelfanger Community Tree Nursery with other local tree enthusiasts. Their goal? To increase tree cover in their area by providing free, locally grown trees – especially oaks. Jen loves growing oak saplings!

She wants to provide healthy trees for her local landscape and knows biosecurity measures can help her achieve her aim. She may not be an expert, but she isn’t put off by the need to learn how to improve the way she does things at the nursery. Every year, she learns a little more and makes small changes to her hygiene and housekeeping practises.

Jen would like to do more but recognises that it can be hard when budgets – and time – are tight. She attends free information sessions and reads online resources when she has the time. She’s happy to see that the things she does at the nursery – though they may seem small or just common sense – keep her trees healthy.

KEY INFORMATION

Established: 2021

Location: West Hall Farm, Shelfanger, Diss, Norfolk.

Managed by: Jen Aves.

Produces: 1,500 trees a year.

Output: One-year-old seedlings are given away for free to local people to plant around the area.

“I hate to have to destroy any seedlings, which is why I’m so keen to avoid pests and diseases!”

Jen Aves

Jen Aves

Let’s find out what common-sense control measures Jen uses to manage risks.

Seed collecting and tracing

Volunteers collect seeds from local oak trees that look healthy and disease free. They note the location of the source of all the seeds in the nursery. Jen tracks every seed and gives each seedling a unique tracking number, so that it can be traced back to its collection point. This means that if there are any problems with her seedlings, Jen will have the knowledge needed to identify the cause and reduce the spread of any diseases or pests.

If seeds turn out to have a problem, recording provenance can mean the difference between needing to destroy one batch of seedlings or a whole year of seedlings. It also means that, in the future, Jess will be able to avoid collecting seed from a oak tree that has been proven to have health issues.

Using

compost

Jen uses a commercial, certified compost rather than making her own, so she can ensure she

is not introducing or spreading any harmful pathogens when potting up her seeds and seedlings. She buys a peat-free compost to reduce her environmental footprint, with which she has achieved excellent germination and growth rates.

Watering

Jen uses mains tap water to water her seedlings. Being a relatively small community tree nursery, she has limited space to gather and store rainwater in a biosecure way (with a lid,

Jen Aves

Jen Aves

CASE STUDY

for example). While using mains water is not ideal because of the high cost, it’s a practical way to ensure that only clean, fresh water is used on the site.

Jen also makes sure she only waters the seedlings when they need it. This helps to minimise the risk of standing water collecting, reducing the opportunities for pathogens. She also waters the soil rather than the plants’ foliage as this helps to reduce the chance of mildew. There’s no automatic, timed irrigation system at Shelfanger Community Tree Nursery, which Jen and the volunteers say helps them to manage this risk.

Cleaning

On site, Jen uses a portable, handheld steam cleaner to clean her tools regularly and makes sure they’re dry before putting them away. Regularly cleaning your tools and other equipment with disinfectant is an important way to reduce the risk of diseases being brought into or spread around your nursery.

Monitoring

Jen regularly checks all her saplings to ensure they’re healthy and disease free. She looks for symptoms such as unusual discolouration on the leaves, dieback or wilting, deformed growth or defoliation. If she finds any signs of ill health, she immediately quarantines those trees and talks to her local plant health inspector about safely destroying the plants.

Going gravel based

Jen arranges her trees in trays on a gravel floor. This helps improve drainage, which reduces the risk of standing water, inhibits weed growth, which saves time and effort, and removes the potential biosecurity risk of bringing in woodchip for paths and surfaces. Though gravel may have a higher upfront cost than woodchip, it won’t need replacing in the longer-term, thereby removing a further ‘risk pathway’.

VOLUNTEER TRAINING

Being a small nursery means there are few visitors to the site and this helps minimise the risk of pathogen introduction by people. Jen makes sure that all her volunteers understand how to grow healthy trees, the importance of adopting biosecure practices and how to reduce the risk of pests and diseases entering the nursery. She emphasises the potential consequences of a problem entering the

nursery, and finds that volunteers are always keen to help avoid this outcome by adopting common-sense control measures. “All the volunteers are as keen as I am not to spread any pests or disease around the nursery, so they embrace any new information,” she says.

Jen keeps up to date with the latest biosecurity advice by using the resources available online, such as the UK Plant Health Information Portal.

Jen Aves

One-year-old oak seedlings are grown in cells.

Acorns are arranged in fresh compost for germination.

Healthy seedlings growing in pots and seed trays.

Jen Aves

Jen Aves

Gary Battell

Colin Lay

SHORELANDS COMMUNITY TREE NURSERY

“You have to show people the importance of biosecurity practice. It’s not enough to tell volunteers or put up posters, you have to lead by example.”

Shorelands Community Tree Nursery was set up to help conserve the rare black poplar (Populus nigra) species. This is the most endangered native timber tree in Britain, according to the Forestry Commission. There are so few wild black poplars left in the UK that it’s unlikely the trees will pollinate each other. Instead, large numbers of cultivated poplars pollinate them, with the result that there’s no regeneration of true, wild black poplars. Ben Potterton is trying to conserve this culturally important part of Britain’s treescape at Shorelands, with the help of a team of volunteers. By taking cuttings from diseasefree trees and propagating them, he’s often preserving the last example of that genetic lineage in the country. “We have a really unique situation here – we’re trying to save a gene pool that’s right on the brink,” says Ben. Unfortunately, poplar species are prone to a variety of fungal diseases, including cankers, leaf rusts and poplar scab. “Sometimes we can see that a black poplar tree is not healthy, but it may be the last of its kind in England – so we

KEY INFORMATION

Established: 2023

Location: Shorelands Barn, Langmere, Diss, Norfolk.

Managed by: Ben Potterton (The Otter Trust)

Produces: 20,000 trees a year.

Output: Seedlings are planted on an Otter Trust site, Dickleburgh Moor, then given away for free.

Find out more: www.theottertrust.org/ dickleburgh-moor

“We have a unique situation here –we’re trying to save the gene pool for the black poplar, a species that’s right on the brink” Ben Potterton

PLANT MONITORING

Ben regularly checks the site for pests and diseases. As Shorelands is a specialised nursery, growing mostly black poplar, he’s been able to familiarise himself with the species’ native and non-native pests. For example, he keeps an eye out for signs of poplar wood boring beetles, which can spread in wood packaging material and can also fly long distances. Like many wood-boring beetles, they prefer stressed trees, so keeping his trees strong and healthy also helps prevent infection.

face a challenge,” he explains. “We quarantine it and sterilise all the equipment it comes into contact with. This is because, though the tree isn’t healthy in itself, its genes are so important, that it’s worth trying to propagate a healthy sapling from any new growth it can create. When you’re dealing with potentially the last specimen of this tree, you can’t be as ruthless as nurseries need to be with other tree species.”

Seed collection

Seed collection is not possible with black poplar trees as hybridisation with similar species is one of the causes of this species’ decline. Instead

Ben tracks down the few remaining native black poplars to take cuttings from disease-free trees to be propagated. He uses only clean tools and equipment to do the job. He keeps records of the provenance of all his cuttings.

Other tree species such as holly are grown from seed at Shorelands and are collected by trained volunteers and logged by Ben, so he has a record of the source location of all the seed collected in case of any future problems.

BIOSECURITY KNOW-HOW

Ben has been a professional plantsman for many years and understands biosecurity well, including the identification of notifiable pests. He plans to get some signage to illustrate the importance of biosecurity, but has learned from experience that speaking face to face with volunteers is the best way to help them understand the importance of biosecurity and ensure they take the appropriate actions.

With his horticultural background, Ben is confident about understanding the risks to his community tree nursery.

Water source

Shorelands uses rainwater when available and mains water when not. The nursery’s rainwater comes from a sealed collection tank, which is cleaned regularly.

Cleaning

Tools are cleaned regularly in a dishwasher and there’s also a system in place to ensure pots and seed trays are disinfected after every use.

Antibacterial wash

Shorelands uses an antibacterial wash that is applied to cuttings, as well as tools, to minimise the chance of infection in these important trees.

Quarantine area

A quarantine area is used if a new batch of trees needs to be kept separate. For example, if Ben spots any worrying signs of ill health on incoming trees, he keeps them in quarantine until he’s uncovered the cause of the problem with the help of local plant health inspectors. Ben’s quarantine

area is 10m away from other stock, and he always washes boots and tools used in the quarantine area before using them in the main nursery.

Volunteer training

Ben supports the nursery’s volunteers to stay up to date about the biosecurity risks of any project they work on. He provides volunteers with clean tools and equipment every time they visit the nursery.

Traceability

All the trees in the nursery have a number label, and details about the species, seed collection site and date of collection are stored on a database against this number. Ben never accepts any plant cuttings from outside the UK to avoid importing foreign pests and diseases.

Plant health control

Ben ensures that all plants are inspected to

Black poplar trees are hard to find in the UK these days.

Black poplar cuttings are grown in cells.

MOOR TREES COMMUNITY NURSERY

“Biosecurity is not just one thing, it’s a whole spectrum of actions that are embedded in all our practices at the nursery – from assessing the risk of contamination to keeping accurate records.”

Moor Trees’ vision is to restore Dartmoor’s treescape by helping to establish a network of community woodlands. They grow trees from locally sourced seed for up to three years before planting them. To protect their trees and keep them healthy, Moor Trees adopt the following biosecurity practices:

Weed management

Weeds are removed from areas where plants are grown and managed in a way that prevents them from harbouring and transmitting pests.

Waste treatment and disposal

All residues and waste materials are assessed to ensure they do not host, harbour or transmit pests. Waste is removed from the site regularly.

Supply chain management

All suppliers are risk assessed and only those that meet Moor Trees’ plant-health requirements are approved.

Signage

Information boards are important to raise awareness and minimise risks. Moor Trees has a sign near to the entrance explaining the actions we take to minimise the risk of

Established: 1999

Location: Moor Trees is made up of two nurseries: Broadley Tree Nursery, Diptford and Dartington Tree Nursery, Totnes.

Managed by: Moor Trees, an independent charity.

Produces: 90,000 trees, with 32,000 ready in winter 2024/25.

Output: Trees are sold for woodland planting, hedgerow creation and restoration schemes. Find out more: moortrees.org

“Moor

Trees is committed to the highest biosecurity standards in its tree nurseries to protect the UK’s trees.”

Dave Lewis

Neil Aldridge

plant contamination. Good signage helps raise awareness of specific risks the site might face.

Boot wash

Soil-borne diseases have been identified as a potential pathway for pathogens to enter the nursery, so Moor Trees place simple plastic boxes containing disinfectant by the entrance. We ensure all staff, volunteers and visitors use them before entering the site.

Quarantine area

Moor Trees is a large community tree nursery and regularly takes delivery of materials, plants and tools. This was identified as a potential risk pathway, but one that can be effectively managed by using a quarantine area. Luckily, the site is large enough to accommodate this. On arrival, all items are checked over before entering the quarantine area. Plants, materials, tools and wooden pallets, which can harbour pests, remain in the quarantine area for a

staff and volunteers are trained thoroughly to recognise and report pests and diseases.

tree nursery, and all tools are regularly cleaned with disinfectant. Our team struggles to keep up with the amount of equipment, such as pots and seed trays, that require cleaning, as the task is time consuming and not always the most desirable job for volunteer. But we all recognise that it’s a simple, effective and important way to protect our trees and remain disease free.

defined period, which varies according to the item. A plant might need to be isolated from the rest of the nursery for long enough that any pest or disease it might be infected with becomes detectable. A tool will just be quarantined until someone has time to clean it.

Cleaning

Moor Trees has a washing and cleaning station that uses mains water. Tools used for planting trees are kept separate from tools used in the

Watering

Rainwater harvesting requires large surfaces where rain can be collected. Moor Trees uses linked water containers to capture and store rainwater from the roof of one of its buildings. Water containers are covered, and cleaned annually, to help prevent pathogens from building up in the water.

Raised beds

Biosecurity requires proper seed storage, disinfection of equipment and minimising contamination.

Training for volunteers

Moor Trees includes biosecurity in the induction training for our new volunteers, so everyone is

Raised beds are spaced well apart, and seedlings are planted out with plenty of space around them. This allows good air flow around the plants, which helps prevent the high moisture levels that offer prime conditions for pathogens.

Moor Trees grows all its own trees from tree seeds that are hand collected from local woodlands.

A bootwash station is used to clean and disinfect footwear before entering or leaving the nurseries.

Neil Aldridge Moor Trees

Moor Trees

Neil Aldridge

Neil Aldridge

introduction and spread of pests and diseases that can harm crops and ecosystems.

aware of what they should do to grow healthy trees. “It’s not only staff and volunteers who need to know about biosecurity. At Moor Trees we encourage a culture where everyone thinks about it as part of their everyday actions,” says Dave Lewis, Operations Manager.

Record keeping

Moor Trees has a chain of custody linking all the trees that leave the nursery to the site where the original seed was collected or cutting made. Traceability reassures the buyer and means that any problems are more easy to identify and contain. We have a plant-labelling system and computer database that contains all the information necessary to track our plants.

Forest Reproductive Material (FRM)

Moor Trees complies with FRM legislation, which regulates the sale of seed and trees for forestry purposes. It involves registering your

seed collection with the Forestry Commission for 50 controlled species and notifying them of your intention to collect seed 14 days in advance of the proposed collection date. For more information visit: forest-reproductivematerials-forestergis.hub.arcgis.com

Policies and procedures

Moor Trees has procedures in place to identify and manage any suspected notifiable pest outbreaks. This is a critical requirement of Plant Healthy certification. We’ve also developed a plant-biosecurity policy, which is communicated to all our personnel. It’s reviewed annually, and as needed. “Sharing the biosecurity message with everyone who interacts with us is important. Regular training and making sure information is easily available are key to encouraging people to engage with biosecurity measures,” says Dave Lewis.

BEING PLANT HEALTHY

Since 2022, Moor Trees has been part of a pilot ‘group accreditation’ scheme for Plant Healthy certification. They have acted as the group scheme co-ordinator and auditor for other members of a pilot cluster.

Moor Trees is happy to be one of the first community tree nurseries to achieve Plant Healthy certification, which means people can be reassured that they are responsibly managing their biosecurity risks. They tell us about the scheme.

What is Plant Healthy certification?

Plant Healthy is a certification scheme that shows nurseries have met the biosecurity requirements of the UK Plant Health Management Standard (PHMS). Many commercial nurseries in the UK are certified, with others currently applying.

Setting up a group accreditation scheme

The pilot group accreditation scheme – part of the ‘Trees Outside Woodland’ project –came about because several community tree nurseries had reported that the cost of individual certification was a barrier.

A cluster group of four community nurseries was set up and Moor Trees underwent training to become the group scheme co-ordinator and auditor. This helped us to further improve our own biosecurity control measures.

Analysing the level of risk

We conducted a Site and Operations Pest Risk Analysis (SOPRA) to identify the risks associated with each nursery and its practices. This was a challenge initially, as it required

Signs inform visitors and volunteers about the importance of Moor Trees’ biosecurity measures.

a high level of knowledge and understanding of the potential threats. Fortunately, thanks to Moor Trees’ involvement with the pilot scheme, we received training that equipped us to conduct these analyses. It also helped us reassess the risks on our own sites and identify additional control measures we needed to put in place to ensure our trees stay healthy.

Achieving high standards

“Though leading the process for the group was at times arduous, our hard work paid off. Now our group members are the first community tree nurseries with accreditation”, says Dave Lewis. “This means we can continue our tree-planting projects, confident in the knowledge that the trees we’re supplying are healthy, and the risks of infection have been minimised.” He believes that Plant Healthy certification might not be suitable for every community tree nursery, but you can learn a lot about producing healthy trees from the process.

Moor Trees makes sure all seeds are fully traceable.

Neil Aldridge

Biosecurity when handling seeds involves precautions to prevent the

Neil Aldridge

HOW TO PLAN YOUR NURSERY’S INFRASTRUCTURE

Now you’ve seen how some other nurseries do it, it’s time to consider how you can upscale your own efforts

PERIMETER

Whether you want to allow people in or keep wildlife out, you need to think about nursery boundaries

Access

When looking to set up a nursery or increase your output, you need to assess the access to your nursery site and consider if it needs to be improved. Your nursery should be able to receive deliveries such as compost, containers and equipment. And your young trees will need to leave the nursery during the winter months when the ground can be muddy. Adding some gravelled areas might be helpful.

Gates

Gates are always weak points in the security of your nursery. Gaps at the base, and between the gate and fence, need to be made too small for potentially troublesome animals to squeeze through. A single wooden or concrete sill beneath the gate should help prevent any unwanted guests from burrowing underneath.

Moor Trees tree nursery has robust fencing all the way round and a gated access

A concrete sill beneath the gate prevents small mammals from entering the nursery by digging underneath

Fencing

It’s a good idea to fence the perimeter of your nursery as this can help to protect your young trees from rabbits, deer, people, farm animals, footballs, dogs and other potential risks. Think about what the trees might need protecting from and then design your fencing accordingly. Deer and rabbits need very different approaches.

To construct a rabbit-proof fence, it’s best to use at least 18 gauge, maximum 31mm hexagonal wire mesh. The bottom of the netting should either be buried to a depth of 150mm or flared outwards to extend along the ground for

150mm (animals will tend to dig right next to an obstruction, they don’t take a step back). This should be anchored to the ground at 1m intervals.

If you think your nursery could be targeted by deer, first consider the number and species of deer in your area. The table (below) shows the suggested height and mesh sizes for different species. A fence will often put deer off as they prefer not to go over an obstruction – but some, such as muntjac, will search for a way under.

Another option is electric fencing. At Salhouse nursery (above), a solar-powered fence effectively prevents deer reaching tender trees.

WHAT HEIGHT AND WEIGHT SHOULD MY DEER FENCE BE?

Think about what the trees might need protecting from and then design your fencing accordingly.

A solar-powered electric fence at Salhouse prevents deer from accessing the nursery

Deer cause damage mainly at night by stripping shoots, flower buds and foliage off plants and, in winter, eating tree bark

BEFORPREPARED WINTER

Remember to insulate pipes and ensure they can be easily disconnected and drained in the winter.

IRRIGATION

Water is essential for a nursery, especially in the early stages of seedling growth

SOURCES OF WATER

Mains water

Mains water can be expensive and is not always ideal environmentally, as it requires treatment and energy to reach the nursery and often contains unhelpful minerals. However, it is always clean and can be a good option to prevent diseases and therefore improve biosecurity.

Rain water

Rainwater harvesting requires surfaces, such as roofs, where rain can be collected. A large amount of stored rainwater will be needed to last through prolonged dry periods, but it can be used in combination with other water sources. For biosecurity, rainwater collection containers should be covered and kept clear of leaves.

Moor Trees nursery uses linked water containers to capture and store a large volume of rain water from the roof of one of its buildings.

Borehole

Boreholes are costly to drill, but once installed they can be a great source of clean water. You should first check relevant landowner permissions and whether you need an extraction license from the Environment Agency.

Open water

Open water could be an option but is generally more risky from a biosecurity perspective.

METHODS OF WATERING

Watering by hand

Hand watering is time consuming but it can be worth the effort. When each plant gets regular attention by a person, potential problems such as disease and pests can be spotted early.

Watering with automated systems

Automated systems save time and can be put on a timer, which is handy for early morning watering.

n Sprinklers

Sprinklers spray water over a large area. This is normally the cheapest automatic irrigation to install. It can cover a large area, so can be good for small containers and cells such as root trainers. Controls can be easily fitted to automate the timing of watering. However, it isn’t an efficient system in terms of water use. Water is lost as it travels through the air, from the leaves of plants and the soil surface. Wetting the leaves and stems of the plants can also increase the likelihood of pests and diseases. It can also easily be blown by the wind, resulting in trees being missed.

n Drip line irrigation

This is a series of pipes that direct water to plants where it is needed. It dispenses water slowly and evenly, and water goes directly to the soil, minimising losses through evaporation. Nutrients can be added to the system too. This system is often used for larger container-grown stock.

n Soaker hoses and leaky pipes

These are hoses that have holes along their length or that are made of porous material. Water seeps out slowly along the length of the hose. They are similar to drip line irrigation, but less precise and less efficient. They’re also not good on slopes!

n Mist irrigation

For rooting cuttings and propagating seedlings, simple mist-propagation systems are available. While not essential for propagation, some Community Tree Nurseries use them in their polytunnels for convenience.

INFRASTRUCTURE

A drip irrigation system is used at Shewsbury Town Council tree nursery

A pump and source of electricity may be required to increase the pressure depending on your water source and type of irrigation. To run a sprinkler system from harvested rainwater, you’ll need a pump. This can go inside the water tank, which can have an automatic top up from the mains (if you are connected) for dry periods.

AUTOMATED WATERING?

Deciding whether you need automatic irrigation will depend on your nursery. Here are some things you should consider:

Where the trees are growing

Raised beds will usually require more water than normal beds. Container-grown trees will require more water than those grown directly in the ground (bare root), and the smaller the container the more regular watering will be required.

The size of the nursery

How long would it take to water by hand?

The watering workforce

How many people can help with watering, how local are they and how often can they help?

The soil and climate

The location of the nursery will dictate the type of soil as well as the climate, and this will affect how much watering is likely to be needed.

TOP TIP

Think about whether you need electricity in your store – for charging tools, lighting, boiling the kettle and other things!

STORAGE

You’ll need somewhere secure onsite to store equipment

It’s handy to have somewhere onsite to securely store the nursery’s tools and equipment. There might already be a building on site, but if not, a shed (cheaper) or a shipping container (more

POLYTUNNELS

Polytunnels provide useful space for storage, activities and growing

While polytunnels can be useful for propagating some tree species, they aren’t essential for growing most of them. However, they can provide a warm, dry space for people to work in when processing seeds or planting young trees. Many essential tasks in a tree nursery take place during the colder months and don’t require much moving around, so without a warm shelter you can get very chilly!

secure, but will require access for delivery) are both options. Shipping containers can be purchased second hand and lined, allowing you to store tools more easily along the walls.

You might already have a sheltered space onsite, or prefer to build a shed or greenhouse. If not, a polytunnel is a relatively cheap way of creating a large, sheltered space, and you can grow plants in it too.

Choosing a polytunnel

n As with other things, you tend to get what you pay for. More expensive tunnels often use better, more durable materials. The polythene on a tunnel can last for anything from four to 10 years, depending on how windy your site is, how well it’s fitted and how durable it is.

n Choose a fairly wide tunnel that will enable you to fit tables in the middle if you plan on using it

Putting up a polytunnel can be a great teambuilding exercise

Sunshine or rain, a polytunnel – here at Bath Mind – can help you work in all weathers

for people to work in. Length tends to increase in five to six foot increments, as this is the normal spacing of the supporting ‘hoops’.

n Doors on both ends can be useful for ventilation as well as for access.

n You can attach the polythene to the base rail or dig the polythene into the ground. The latter is more work, but it creates a secure fit and acts as more of a barrier to weeds and animals.

n You can buy some polytunnels that come with installation included as part of the price, and let professionals do the hard work for you. But erecting a polytunnel can be a good bonding activity for a new group of volunteers. Ideally, you should attach the polythene film on a warm sunny day as you’ll be able to get a tighter fit.

Seed processing in a warm and cosy polytunnel is more comfortable than outdoors.

n Trees under cover will not get any rain, so if you are growing trees inside a polytunnel it’s worth considering an automatic irrigation system. Many companies that sell polytunnels offer irrigation systems as an add on.

The tool shed at Thames Chase nursery

HOW TO MANAGE VOLUNTEERS

Volunteers are the life-blood, heartbeat, energy and enthusiasm of any Community Tree Nursery and it’s important that you keep them happy while ensuring their work advances the aims of the nursery.

STEP ONE PLANNING

Before you start advertising for volunteers for your community nursery, it’s important to consider how volunteering will work at the nursery, what you want from volunteers and what you can offer them.

Ask yourself the following questions:

n What exactly do you need volunteers to help with? A volunteer role promoting the nursery involves a different skillset to that needed to sow seeds and plant trees. You might also want some people to take on more responsibility, for example, in leading other volunteers.

n How will volunteering operate? For example, can volunteers drop into the nursery at any

time or are there set times? Do they need to sign up in advance? Will people be able to use nearby facilities, such as a kitchen or toilet?

n How will volunteers communicate and coordinate with each other? There are many options – via email or WhatsApp, in person at meetings, or perhaps on a noticeboard at the nursery. Remember to be inclusive. Does everyone have a smart phone and access to certain apps, for example?

n How involved do you want volunteers to be with making decisions about managing the nursery? If you would appreciate their input, how will you engage them with this and manage a fair and inclusive process? How will decisions be made?

The glasshouse at Bath Hub tree nursery is a hive of activity

STEP TWO RECRUITING

of the volunteer teams at Tree Musketeers, Hackney

Think carefully about the recruitment process for new volunteers. Do you want them to fill in an application form or provide references? Will you interview them? The answers are likely to depend on how much responsibility comes with each role, and how your nursery operates.

Volunteer role descriptions

It is helpful to have a volunteer role description to send to anyone who is interested in volunteering that makes it clear what each role involves. This could include:

n Main activities and responsibilities of the role

n Where and when the work will take place, and what level of commitment is needed

n How the volunteer’s work will fit in with the tree nursery or wider project

n What the benefits are for the volunteer

n Whether equipment will be supplied or they need to provide their own (this includes PPE)

n Any particular skills or knowledge that are required or helpful for the role

n Who to contact about volunteering and instructions on how to apply.

Volunteer policy and agreements

A volunteer policy can help to define the role volunteers play in the nursery, and ensure everyone is treated equally and fairly. There are lots of examples of policies available online, and your local volunteer centre can also help you to develop a policy.

Volunteer agreements can be used to set out both a nursery’s commitment to its volunteers and what it hopes for from its volunteers. Even if you decide not to create a formal agreement before you recruit, it’s worth considering the various elements. These include:

What you will offer volunteers

n How you’ll induct new volunteers and provide any training necessary

n How you’ll support volunteers in their role

n If you’ll reimburse volunteers’ expenses

n If volunteers will be covered by the nursery’s insurance.

What you will expect from volunteers

n That they will follow relevant policies and procedures, such as health and safety

n That they will fulfil expectations of the role, such as how long they volunteer for, how much time they commit, and complete any training required

n Any values or behaviours you’d expect volunteers to adopt

Focus on the individual and create an environment where they can express themselves.

STEP THREE FINDING PEOPLE

Think about the benefits of volunteering in the nursery and what might excite and attract different groups of people – they might not be the same things that motivate you. They could be health and wellbeing, learning and experience, making friends and socialising, or relate to the project’s environmental impacts.

Raise awareness

Try different methods of recruiting in order to reach different groups. For example:

n Social media – for example, local or special interest groups on Facebook

n Websites

n Newsletters

n Posters and leaflets

n Local organisations and networks

n Local press

n Hold an open day, tree-planting session or other event where people can learn more about the nursery and volunteering

n Run a stand at a local event

n Find your local volunteer centre, they can often list volunteer roles: Find a volunteer centreGoogle My Maps

n Ask existing volunteers to bring their friends and family along .

Offer inductions

Make time to meet new volunteers to introduce them to their roles and find out more about them. This could be a meeting just before or after a regular volunteer session at the nursery.

A volunteer induction might include:

n Going through the volunteer agreement and policy and explaining what they mean

n Advising on health and safety information

n Finding out contact details for next of kin

n Taking a tour of the site

n Explaining how they will be supported and introducing them to other volunteers

n Talking and discovering what motivates the volunteer, and any concerns or things that might affect their volunteering.

One

A volunteer at Bath Mind

STEP FOUR MANAGING AND RETAINING PEOPLE

Managing your volunteers effectively and providing them with adequate support will help them to stay interested and motivated, and help you to retain them. Take time to get to know them, understand what they find satisfying about volunteering and listen to any concerns they may have about their role or the group.

Volunteers are more likely to perform well in their roles and continue volunteering if they:

n Are adequately supported and supervised. Think about how to supply this support in the nursery. Printed guides may be helpful for some tasks. Would a buddy system for new volunteers be helpful?

n Feel appreciated. A simple thank you can go a long way to making someone feel valued!

Celebrating the first-year anniversary of the nursery with a bring-and-share in the polytunnel at Gressenhall nursery

n Feel they are doing something worthwhile and making a difference. Make sure you take time out to celebrate nursery achievements together as a team.

n Have opportunities for learning and developing skills. Are you able to offer some training, or arrange a visit to other nurseries?

n Feel confident that they can handle the tasks they are asked to do. Make sure you provide training, guidance and support where needed.

n Have a sense of belonging. It’s important that everyone is recognised for the role they play in the team and included socially – try to have regular tea breaks together as a group.

n Are consulted about their work. Make sure volunteers have the opportunity to contribute to decisions that affect their roles.

HEALTH AND SAFETY, INSURANCE AND THE LAW

Health and safety

It’s important to consider the health and safety of volunteers and have a risk assessment in place. You can find Guidance for employers on voluntary work here: www.hse.gov.uk/voluntary/ employer/index.htm If volunteers are expected to work on their own, you might also need particular lone working arrangements.

Safeguarding and Disclosure and Barring Service (DBS)

Where the volunteering role involves working with, or the opportunity for contact with children, young people or vulnerable adults, then you need to consider how you will ensure safeguarding and whether you need Disclosure and Barring Service (DBS) checks. The National Council for Voluntary Organisations (NCVO) has more information on safeguarding here: www.ncvo.org.uk/help-andguidance/safeguarding/getting-started-withsafeguarding/what-is-safeguarding

Data protection

How and where will you store volunteers’ data? You’ll need to make sure you only collect the data you need and keep records up to date.

The NCVO has more information here: www.ncvo.org.uk/help-and-guidance/ involving-volunteers/volunteers-and-thelaw/volunteers-and-employment-rights/ data-protection-and-volunteers/#/the-dataprotection-principles

Dealing with problems

The NCVO has information on dealing with problems with volunteers here: www.ncvo.org. uk/get-involved/volunteering/if-volunteeringgoes-wrong It’s also worth reading about volunteers and the law www.ncvo.org.uk/

help-and-guidance/involving-volunteers/ volunteers-and-the-law

Insurance

Whether you need insurance, and what type, will depend on how you are operating. There are two main types to consider.

n Employer’s liability insurance

There is no duty to insure volunteers, but it may be advisable for organisations to have this cover in case negligence cases are brought by volunteers. NCVO advises: “Organisations should make sure that volunteers are covered by their employers’ liability insurance or under similar terms in their public liability policy.”

For more guidance, visit: www.ncvo.org.uk/ help-and-guidance/involving-volunteers/ volunteers-and-the-law/insurance-andvolunteers

n Public liability insurance

This protects for claims by third parties caused by the negligence of the organisation. It may be possible to extend a policy, as mentioned above, to cover claims from volunteers arising from injury or sickness as a result of negligence by the organisation. You may also be able to extend it to protect against loss or damage to property caused through the negligence of someone acting for the organisation, which may include volunteers.

TCV (The Conservation Volunteers) have a community group network that offers access to discounted insurance for community groups. To find out more, visit www.tcv.org.uk/ communities/join-community-network/ community-group-insurance

Tree sales are seasonal, which can make cash flow challenging, so you’ll need to plan for the leaner months

PLANNING AND TREE DISTRIBUTION

Before you start your nursery, make a plan: consider how you’ll distribute trees and how you’ll fund your efforts

1. WRITE A PLAN

A plan is particularly important with something as long term as growing trees! It’s a good way to spot potential problems and set goals. It’s also a useful tool to help decide the best structure for your organisation (see page 264) and explain your plans to others.

You’ll need to decide whether you want to sell or give away the trees you grow, but either way it’s important to consider whether there is sufficient demand for your trees, before you rush in to growing them.

A useful tool is a business plan, which often contains:

n A brief description of your Community Tree Nursery and its key objectives;

n Details of the skills and experience of current volunteers and staff, and how those skills relate to the nursery;

n Local market information such as your target customers and potential competition, as well

TOP TIP

Start-up funding is normally crucial because setting up infrastructure and growing a saleable product (tree) is likely to take at least two years.

as who will plant your trees, how you will find them, and your unique selling point;

n Sales and marketing plans such as how you will attract customers and distribute trees. How will you spread the word about the nursery to generate demand? Will you have a name and logo? If selling, what will your process be?

n Plans for operation such as details about the site of the nursery, the number of staff and volunteers, how you will grow trees and lists of any equipment you’ll need. This section can also detail legal regulations. Potential risks should be included as well as how you’ll manage them and what you will do if things don’t go to plan.

n A finance section should outline how you’ll fund all of the activities you’ve outlined and what revenue you expect to generate.

For more information and templates, visit: www. startuploans.co.uk/business-plan-template

2. AIM TO DIVERSIFY YOUR INCOME

Having a range of activities, rather than relying on winter tree sales alone, can bring in yearround income and help with cash flow. However, it’s important not to spread yourself too thinly. There’s a lot to do to set up a Community Tree Nursery, so be careful not to take on too much too soon.

It can be helpful to think ahead, though. When selecting a site, for example, you might consider what other activities it might be able to accommodate. Visiting or helping in a tree nursery can be educational, fun and good for wellbeing. It may also be an experience you can charge for. You might provide, for example:

n Activities

n Birthday parties or regular children’s sessions

n School or youth group visits

n Corporate volunteering – many companies have budgets set aside for this and are looking for activities

n Support programmes – mental health referrals, social prescribing, community pay back projects and working with the unemployed

n Training – from courses and talks to guided walks

n Tree planting – could you offer a complete service including planting trees rather than just supplying them? You’ll probably also need to offer protection for trees if you go down this route

n Community events or craft activities such as wreath making, willow weaving, willow sculpture or wood craft

n Food growing – you may be able to sublet space to food growing groups

For further ideas on fundraising, see page 276.

For further ideas on fundraising, see page 260.

3. FIND POTENTIAL CUSTOMERS

Knowing where your trees are going will determine how to make the best contacts and target your ‘product’ (trees).

n Local government

Many local councils have tree planting targets so it’s worth getting in touch to understand what is needed. Aside from targets, they may also have ongoing planting in the streets, parks and open spaces they manage.

n Private landowners (small)

For the owners of gardens and small areas of land, orders will probably be smaller, but there is potential to charge more per tree. Fruit trees and smaller trees and shrubs are likely to be most popular for this group.

n Private landowners (large)

For large areas of land, such as farmers for hedging and agroforestry schemes, or small areas of woodland.

n Local charities and groups

For example, Wildlife Trusts and ‘friends of’ groups who manage green spaces.

n Schools and the NHS

They often carry out planting in their grounds and might be keen to support local projects.

n Development

Tree planting is often required as part of development.

Bath Mind also grows vegetables

James grows trees at Salhouse nursery to give away

4. IDENTIFY YOUR UNIQUE SELLING POINT

Large commercial nurseries grow millions of trees at very competitive prices. They can provide significant numbers of trees and a range of species. It’s important to think about what you can offer people, so they choose to use your Community Tree Nursery.

Pricing

Most Community Tree Nurseries that do sell their trees don’t aim to compete with commercial nurseries on price. Some nurseries give trees away for free, which can reduce the costs that are involved with accessing markets, such as finding buyers and registering for plant passporting. However, you’ll need to make sure you identify other sources of income to sustain your nursery. Many grant-givers and funders applaud the concept of giving trees away for charitable purposes.

Rarer species

Can you provide tree species that are difficult to source from commercial nurseries?

Local provenance

Many Community Tree Nurseries collect seeds and cuttings locally to maintain regional character and genetic diversity in our treescapes. If you’re doing this, make sure people know who you are and why it’s important.

Quality

Earning a reputation for producing high-quality trees will keep customers coming back.

Convenience

As a local nursery can you offer convenience that other nurseries can’t? Can people pop in and pick up trees? Can you offer smaller quantities or more specific quantities than other nurseries, for example, exactly 112 hawthorn and nine crab apple trees.

Benefits to the community

Are you working with groups or supporting volunteers? If so, make sure people know and that buying your trees helps support this work.

5. DECIDE WHAT TREES TO GROW

Before you jump into growing trees, take time to consider what kind of trees you want to grow and who is likely to want to plant them.

Size

It suits most Community Tree Nurseries to sell trees that are younger than five years old. It can be difficult for small nurseries to have the space, appropriate land tenure and cash flow to grow larger trees over a longer time period.

Bare root or cell grown

One of your first choices when setting up a tree nursery is whether to grow your trees directly in the ground (known as ‘bare-root stock’) or in containers (‘cells’), such as plant pots or root trainers (known as ‘cellular stock’). For more information on the benefits of each approach, please turn to Containers or bare roots.

Species

What species you grow will depend on who you are supplying trees to (see potential customers, page 269). Hedging species and small trees tend to be popular because it’s easier to find planting locations for them. If you’re growing larger trees, make sure you have customers who can plant them where they can grow to their full potential.

What species you grow will depend on who you are supplying trees to (see potential customers, page 253). Hedging species and small trees tend to be popular because it’s easier to find planting locations for them. If you’re growing larger trees, make sure you have customers who can plant them where they can grow to their full potential.

Rare species

Consider growing niche or rare species. Many Community Tree Nurseries grow native black poplar, for example. Are there any rare species local to you? Some species might be hard to source commercially for a good reason, such as lack of seeds or difficulties germinating, but working at a small scale and with determination you may be able to overcome these challenges and provide an essential resource.

Bath Hub supports the community

Salhouse Community Tree Nursery has a presence at local events

6. DECIDE HOW TO DISTRIBUTE YOUR TREES

Selling trees helps generate income. But even if your Community Tree Nursery doesn’t sell what it grows, you still need to plan how to distribute your product. The best method for your nursery will depend on its location and the trees grown.

Pre-orders

Spontaneous sales

Spontaneous sales can work well if there are regular visitors to your site and yout trees are grown in containers that can be available for sale in an instant. Consider preparing trees for sale in this way.

MARKETING

It’s important to think about who your target customers are when deciding how to market your nursery. Some different methods are:

Website

Consider if you want to have a website and, if so, the time and effort involved to maintain it.

Social media

Social media is a good, free way to get your name out there but it can also be very time consuming! It’s probably best to initially focus on one or two platforms unless you are very keen. Facebook is often good for promoting events and engaging with others through groups. Consider using a scheduling software tool such as Hootsuite or Agorapulse to save time and effort.

Consistency is key, so don’t worry if you can’t post numerous times a week – just ensure that you use the same style of ‘voice’ and look. Video content is engaging, but can be time consuming to create, so is perhaps something to explore once you’re up and running.

Newsletter

your news getting reported in the local press.

Local publications

Local newsletters and community magazines might feature articles about your work for free and are a good way to get known locally.

Radio

Local radio stations are often willing to have guests on talking about local projects.

Posters and flyers

It is useful to have a couple of different designs for flyers and posters for different audiences. You could have one to bring in volunteers and another to promote your trees. Make them eye-catching, visual, memorable and put them in spaces where your target audiences will see them.

Direct c0ntact

Most Community Tree Nurseries sell trees through pre-orders, where a customer gets in touch with a request, the order is agreed and then the nursery puts it together for them. They can either collect it themselves, or arrange for their order to be delivered to them. This allows the nursery to check the species are in stock and ensures there’s time to prepare the order. It may be worth considering working with delivery companies, particularly if you have customers further afield. You would need to pack the trees appropriately for transport and check if you would need plant passports (see page 259).

Contract growing

It may be worth considering working with delivery companies, particularly if you have customers further afield. You would need to pack the trees appropriately for transport and check if you would need plant passports (see page 275).

This is an advance order where trees are grown to a customer’s specification. It might work well for growing hard-to-source species, or if someone is looking to plant trees with seeds sourced from a particular area. For example, a Wildlife Trust looking to expand a wood might prefer trees grown from seeds collected in the wood. Selling to order in this way can be good, as you know you will have a market for the trees once grown. Consider drawing up a contract or securing a deposit before you start growing to ensure your effort doesn’t go to waste.

Consider having a list of people to whom you send an e-newsletter. This doesn’t have to be often, but it helps to be regular. You’ll need to ensure you are complying with GDPR in how you store the recipients’ personal information, make sure it’s clear what they are signing up to, and how they can unsubscribe if they wish to.

Signage

Make sure you have an information sign at the nursery telling people what’s happening.

Press releases

Make sure you include good photos in any press releases you send out to increase the chance of

It’s worth contacting local organisations who are planting trees to make them aware of your nursery. For example Wildlife Trusts, local councils, ‘friends of’ groups, and groups advising farmers, such as FWAG. It is also a good idea to maintain contact with the people and organisations you have worked with in the past, to increase repeat custom and the potential for future collaborations on projects.

Local presence

Having a stand at summer fairs, giving talks to local community groups or attending networking events, can help promote your Community Tree Nursery.

TOP TIP: It’s helpful to have a library of good quality images for marketing. If these include identifiable people, ensure they have consented (ideally in writing) to having their photograph taken and used for this purpose.

LEGISLATION AND MARKETS

To access certain markets, you’ll need to have followed certain procedures.

Forest Reproductive Materials legislation (FRM)

This legislation covers the sale of seeds and trees for forestry purposes for 50 controlled species. Forestry purposes has a broad definition and includes:

n timber production;

n forests and woodlands for tourism, recreational, sporting, educational or amenity purposes;

n the conservation and enhancement of forest and woodland environments.

So if you want to sell trees for these uses, you’ll need to ensure you follow FRM legislation. This is all about tracking the source of the seed. It’s free to do and the Forestry Commission can help you with the process. You will need to notify them of your intention to collect seeds 14 days in advance.

For more information visit: www.gov.uk/ guidance/marketing-forest-reproductivematerial-for-forestry-purposes

Registering as a professional operator

If you are making a profit from tree sales, or selling to professionals such as landscapers or professional gardeners, you’ll need to be registered as a professional operator, whether you need Plant Passports or not.

To find out more or register, visit: www.gov.uk/ guidance/issuing-plant-passports-to-tradeplants-in-great-britain

Or contact APHA for advice: PlantPassportRegistration@apha.gov.uk

Voluntary schemes

n Plant Healthy is a certification scheme that aims to make it easy to identify businesses or organisations that trade and grow plants with good plant health and biosecurity practices. Certified nurseries demonstrate they are meeting the Plant Healthy Management Standard at an audit. Nurseries have to pay for certification and audits. The standard and more information is available here: planthealthy.org.uk

Sourcing from a Plant Healthy supplier is a requirement for some government tree-planting grant schemes such as the England Woodland Creation Offer. Some customers, such as local authorities, may also prefer to purchase from Plant Healthy suppliers.

By becoming Plant Healthy certified, you’ll be helping to protect our plants, landscape and wildlife

WHAT IS A PLANT PASSPORT?

A UK plant passport is an official document needed to move plants and certain regulated wood within Great Britain. If you’re unsure if you need to issue passports, you should contact Animal and Plant Health Agency (APHA) at PlantPassportRegistration@apha.gov.uk

YES

In general, you will need to issue plant passports if you are selling trees or shrubs for planting AND any of the below scenarios apply:

n You are NOT selling to the final user (you’re selling to another retailer, for example);

n You are selling online and delivering via mail or third-party courier.

NO

You may be exempt from needing to issue Plant Passports if:

n You are selling directly to the final user in a face-to-face transaction;

n You sell online to the final user, but deliver the items yourself;

n UK and Ireland Sourced and Grown Assurance Scheme (UKISG) is a voluntary initiative for forest nurseries run by the Woodland Trust. It identifies the provenance of stock to buyers and assures that trees have been raised from seeds sourced and grown solely within the UK and Ireland for their entire lifespan. It involves an annual audit and is currently free to join.

If you want to sell trees to the Woodland Trust, you’ll need to be UKISG certified. Unlike Plant Healthy, UKISG only covers the provenance of the trees, so it is possible sell UKISG-certified trees and also grow trees from seed collected abroad in the same nursery. For more information, visit: www.woodlandtrust.org.uk/about-us/ what-we-do/we-plant-trees/uk-sourced-andgrown-scheme

n You are donating plants to charity, giving them away to friends/family, or swapping them (with no money changing hands).

You can issue UK Plant Passports yourself, but you must be authorised by the Animal and Plant Health Agency (APHA). This involves an inspection with a fee.

WHAT DOES A PLANT PASSPORT LOOK LIKE?

UK Plant Passport and any PFA information

Botanical name (genus or species)

Grower’s registration number

Traceability code

Country of origin

Two letter country of origin code

HOW TO RAISE FUNDS

You’ll need money to set up your nursery and cover ongoing costs. Here, we explore different methods of fundraising and how to apply for grants.

At Salhouse nursery, James grows all sorts of trees

RAISE FUNDS

Raising funds effectively and legally is important to protect trust and confidence in your nursery’s work.

Fundraising takes time and energy, so plan ahead and give yourself plenty of time – more than six months ideally. The more money you need, the more time you’ll likely need to raise it.

Local community events

Fun events such as a nursery open day, quiz night, raffle or sponsored tree planting can take a lot of time and investment, and offer an unknown return. However, they can help you to become known locally, which is good for sales and for recruiting volunteers. Running the same event annually can reduce the risk and the workload.

Corporate support

If you want donations you’ll need to ask for them, preferably directly and passionately. You’ll probably only get a small proportion of your income from corporate support, but every

little helps! Companies typically want something in return, so think about what you can offer them. Could they support the purchase of an item that they could use for advertising, such as a minibus that they could brand with their logo? Can you offer their staff a volunteer team-building day at the nursery? Or maybe tree planting?

Don’t underestimate the time that organising this might take! And remember to factor it into your costings.

For a slow, but steady income, you could ask corporates if you could be featured in their Payroll Giving scheme.

Crowdfunding

A fundraising system by which organisations explain an ambition or project, and individuals pledge to support it financially. Funding is only redeemed if the total is achieved. It’s best to have

a specific campaign with a clear outcome. Fairly small (capital) projects up to £25,000 often work well. There are some well-known crowd funding websites you can use, but make sure you have the time to promote the campaign regularly to your audiences and offer incentives for bigger donations to get the best results.

Membership

Supporters pay a set amount each year or month to be part of a like-minded community. In return for their support, you need to provide information and updates such as newsletters or a Facebook page, and/or offer discounts on trees or events such as tree planting. This is likely to bring in a small, but steady income.

APPLY FOR GRANTS

It’s well worth looking around for grant funding to support your initial set up and ongoing costs. Grants are usually given for either projects, also known as restricted funding (e.g. capital works, infrastructure, outreach) or for business as usual, also known as unrestricted funding (e.g. rent, wages, overheads).

Generally, it’s easier to get funding for projects, but sometimes you might be able to include some business-as-usual costs as part of projects. Here are some places you can start your search:

Search engines

Search engines like GrantNav are free and there’s no need to register. You can use this open-data platform to search for funding information with different categories – such as by location, sector or funder. You can explore more at grantnav.threesixtygiving.org

Tree-planting events can appeal to a wide range of audiences

The Charity Excellence framework

This free website provides a funding finder to search for grants and lots of other useful resources. You do need to register, but it only takes two minutes. Visit www.charityexcellence.co.uk/ Home/FundingFindersResources

Government

It’s worth checking if your local council offers any grants for community projects. This government website will direct you to the page for your local council: www.gov.uk/apply-fundingcommunity-project

Central government may also have grants available. For example, the Forestry Commission’s Tree Production Capital Grant provides support to increase the domestic production of tree seeds and saplings, via investments in facilities and equipment.

Community Foundations

Collectively, this is the largest communityfocused grant-making network in the UK. They help people and organisations to invest in local communities. Find your local one via their network: ukcommunityfoundations.org

Trusts and Foundations

Trusts and Foundations often fund small organisations and provide substantial sums of money (thousands, rather than hundreds) over a specific period (three years, for example) or for a specific project or for organisations in a specific locality. For example:

n Garfield Weston provides grants from £1,000 to several million for charities. Work can include environmental projects;

n Esmée Fairbairn Foundation provides grants of over £30,000.

The National Lottery Community Fund

A range of different grants are offered by tnlcommunityfund.org.uk. For example, Awards for All grants are available for voluntary or community organisations, providing between £300 and £10,000 for up to one year to cover equipment, running costs, staff, volunteer expenses and many more things. Just be aware that you must show the benefit to the community.

The People’s Postcode Lottery

Funding of between £500 and £250,000 is available to good causes from the People’s Postcode Lottery in England, Scotland and Wales. Find out more: www.postcodetrust.org.uk

Corporate grant schemes

Major supermarkets often have grant schemes, for example Tesco Community Grants and Coop Local Community Fund. Most major banks also have charitable foundations.

TCV Chestnut Fund

TCV’s (The Conservation Volunteers) Chestnut Fund offers small grants for community groups that are involved in conservation and have very little money. You can apply for both a start-up grant (up to £160) in the first year and/or a support grant (up to £350) at any time. Find out more here: www.tcv.org.uk/communities/joincommunity-network/the-chestnut-fund/

HOW TO APPLY FOR GRANTS

Make sure your application fits the criteria, always read the guidelines and check your nursery is eligible. It’s often useful to find out who they funded before and by how much. Most funders of community grant schemes will want to see evidence that your group has:

n A committee;

n A bank account;

n A statement of your accounts for the last financial year (unless you are a new group);

n A governing document (for example, trust deed, constitution, Memorandum and Articles of Association’).

Some funders will also ask for evidence of:

n Insurance;

n A health and safety policy and/or risk assessment;

n An equal opportunities policy;

n A child protection or safeguarding policy, if you work with children or vulnerable adults. Make sure you include numbers in your application. If you’re a new nursery, say what you hope to achieve and the outcomes from this. For example, in one year’s time, we aim to grow 7,500 trees, which will create six hectares of new woodland.

Once your nursery is set up, it’s useful to record details, such as volunteer hours and the number of trees grown to date, to use in future applications.

ORGANISATION STRUCTURE

Before you set up your nursery, it’s important to think carefully about what structure best suits your aims and goals and the way you intend to do business.

First, you should consider how your group will be set up – known as its ‘legal structure’. This will affect who is liable for the organisation, who runs it and if you can enter contracts and employ people as an organisation. It’s also likely to affect what kind of funding is available to you.

Charity status is not a legal structure, but whether you have (or wish to have) charitable status will affect the legal structure you can choose, as some can’t have charity status.

Think about your income. If you expect some income to take the form of grants and donations, it’s worth looking at structures that allow charitable status, as some grant funding is only available to charities.

If you plan to generate most of your income by commercial means – selling trees or other services such as planting or advice, for example –then you might want to consider a legal structure associated with social enterprises.

What follows is not a complete list of structures or their benefits, but it will give you an idea of different options.

Incorporated or unincorporated?

Legal structures can be incorporated or unincorporated. This concerns whether members are personally responsible for the organisation and its financial liabilities.

Unincorporated structures

Your group is a collection of individuals. The group doesn’t have a separate legal existence so it can’t rent land or employ people – this would be done by individuals for the group. Individual members are personally responsible for any debts and contractual obligations.

n Unincorporated association

This is an organisation set up through an agreement between a group of people who come together for a reason other than to make a profit. It’s the easiest, quickest and cheapest way for a group to set itself up. You don’t need to register with anyone, and it doesn’t cost anything to set one up. If you have charitable aims, you can still register as a charity.

n Charitable trust

This is an organisation set up by a trust deed with a small group of people, and trustees who are responsible for running it. It’s fairly cheap and simple to set up. As a registered charity, you’ll need to draw up annual accounts and send a copy to the Charity Commission.

Incorporated structures

Here the organisation has a legal identity separate from its members. In law, it is a ‘corporate body’ and can therefore own property and enter into contracts.

n Charitable company

This is a limited company with charitable aims. A company is a membership organisation, the members must be named, and form part of the company register. It is expensive to set up, time consuming to run and annual accountancy fees can be high. Both Companies House and the Charity Commission regulate a Charitable Company, so you must register with both.

It is possible to change structure. So if your Community Tree Nursery grows and you want to employ someone or take on a lease, you can change from an unincorporated association that is registered as a charity to a charitable company, for example.

Social enterprises

Social enterprises are businesses with primarily social objectives. Surpluses are principally reinvested in the business or community, rather than being driven by the need to maximise profit for shareholders and owners.

Here are two examples of common incorporated legal structures of social enterprises.

n Limited companies

This may be a company limited by shares or limited by guarantee. Its Memorandum and Articles of Association must state that any surplus is put

towards the company’s social purpose, and usually defines the company as democratic and accountable to the community through its membership. This is a flexible structure, suitable for a wide range of social enterprises, but regulation by Companies House is fairly strict and there are detailed requirements for annual reports and accounts.

n Community Interest Company (CIC)

This is a limited company with special features that ensure it works for the benefit of the community. CICs commit their assets and profits permanently to the community by means of an ‘asset lock’, so assets cannot be distributed to shareholders. Regulation is lighter than for a charitable company. CICs register with Companies House as a limited company and then apply to the Regulator of Community Interest Companies for CIC status. Their not-for-profit status is visible; however they can’t register as a charity.

FIND OUT MORE

For information about legal structures, visit: n NCVO Choosing your legal structure www.ncvo.org.uk

n Charity Commission

www.charitycommission.gov.uk

n Companies House

www.companieshouse.gov.uk

GLOSSARY

Bare root

Trees supplied by nurseries without any soil around their roots. Typically field grown, they are dug up and packed into bags to be distributed when they are not actively growing. Alternative to container grown (grown in soil in a pot).

Broadcast sow

An easy way to spread very fine or small seeds over a relatively large area by hand.

Broadleaved

A tree with wide, flat leaves, as opposed to needle-shaped leaves. Often used to describe trees that are not conifers. Most broadleaved trees are deciduous.

Burr

Deformed growth of a portion of tree trunk or branch. Not necessarily problematic.

Chitting

The process of helping seeds to germinate, or sprout a radicle, before planting.

Coir

Fibre from the outer husk of a coconut. Used for many things including compost.

Coppicing

The process of cutting trees close to the base to produce multiple new stems. Generally done at regular intervals to produce wood of a particular size and growth form.

Cotyledon

The ‘seed leaf’ – or cotyledon – emerges from a germinating seed and supports development of the plant until the first ‘true’ leaves grow. Plants are often classed as having one or two cotyledons in their seeds (monocotyledonous or dicotyledonous).

Deciduous

Trees and shrubs that shed their leaves annually.

Dioecious

Plants that have reproductive parts of only one sex. Trees with female flowers need to be pollinated by separate trees with male flowers in order to set seed. They can’t produce viable seed on their own. The opposite of monoecious.

Dormancy

The natural period that seeds go through before germination. See Stratification.

Embryo

A part of a seed. Inside a seed there’s an endosperm (the energy storage for the seed) and the embryo, which grows to become the seedling.

Fastigiate

Narrow or columnar trees with branches that are almost parallel to the stem and generally tapered towards the top.

Fertile seeds

Seeds that are able to germinate and grow because they contain an adequate energy store and a viable embryo. As opposed to sterile seeds. Seeds may be sterile for a number of reasons.

Germination

When a seed produces its first roots and shoot, often after a period of dormancy.

Leaf mould

The compost produced by decaying leaves.

Mast

The seeds produced by trees. Often used to describe years where a glut of seeds is produced by one species of tree, in seemingly coordinated fashion, across the country, i.e. a mast year.

Medium (planting medium)

The material in which plants grow.

Monoecious

Plants with both male and female reproductive parts on the same plant. Separate male and female flowers on the same plant enable a single tree to set seed. The opposite of dioecious plants.

Native

A tree species that colonised the UK after the last ice age (10,000 years ago) and before the land was separated from the European mainland by the sea.

Non-native

Tree species that have been introduced to the UK from elsewhere.

Pathogens

Organisms that cause disease.

Peat free

Without peat. Peat was traditionally added to compost for its ability to retain water. Extracting peat from the natural environment for use in compost has large and irreversible negative environmental costs. Peat-free composts contain a variety of other water-retaining elements, such as coir or wood fibres.

Pinnate

Used to describe leaf forms arranged along a central axis. Often leaflet pairs arranged along a central stem.

Pollarding

A method of pruning a tree to produce dense new growth in the upper branches. Occasionally known as ‘lopping’.

Predation

Seed predation or granivory is when animals eat the seeds of plants.

Radicle

The first part to emerge from a germinating seed. It will grow into roots.

Root collar

The zone on a tree where the roots meet the stem.

Root trainer

Usually plastic pots or cells that are designed to encourage strong root growth.

Softwood cuttings

Cuttings taken from soft new growth, generally in the spring and early summer of a new growing season. As opposed to hardwood cuttings, which are taken at the end of the growing season, when plants are no longer growing vigorously.

Scarification

The process of damaging, weakening or splitting a seed coat to aid germination by letting water and gases into the seed. Often done mechanically.

Stratification

A process mimicking the natural processes a seed would experience prior to germination in the wild. These processes are a prerequisite of breaking seed dormancy. Stratification often involves periods of chilling and warming.

USEFUL RESOURCES

TREE

GROWING

The Tree Council

www.treecouncil.org.uk

n Tree and Hedge Planting - a step by step guide

n Protecting young trees: How to make the best choice for your planting project

The Conservation Volunteers treegrowing.tcv.org.uk/grow

Growing Trees

Forest Research www.forestresearch.gov.uk

n Raising trees and shrubs from seed

n Plant Health for the Horticulture Sector

n Tree species database

n Seed storage database

Woodland Trust www.woodlandtrust.org.uk

Tree species handbook: A technical guide for practitioners

Forestry Commission www.gov.uk

Forest Reproductive Material

Royal Horticultural Society www.rhs.org.uk

RHS Propagating Plants by Alan Toogood

Composting information doctorcompost.org

TREE PROTECTION AND MANAGEMENT

Forest Research

Forest fencing www.forestresearch.gov.uk/ publications/forest-fencing

How does the Tubex collection and recycling programme work? tubex.com/news/how-doesthe-tubex-collection-recycling-programmework

People’s Trust for Endangered Species ptes.org

Healthy hedgerows hedgerowsurvey.ptes.org/ healthy-hedgerows-survey

Hedgelink hedgelink.org.uk

PESTS AND DISEASES (BIOSECURITY)

UK Plant Health Information Portal planthealthportal.defra.gov.uk

TreeAlert by Forestry Research treealert.forestresearch.gov.uk

Forest Research

Forestry and tree health resources www.forestresearch.gov.uk/tools-andresources/fthr/pest-and-disease-resources

Observatree

www.observatree.org.uk/pests-and-diseases/ priority-pests-and-diseases

Royal Horticultural Society www.rhs.org.uk/disease

The Arboricultural Association

Diagnosis of ill health in trees by R.G. Strouts and T.G. Winter, ISBN 9780900978586

Forestry Commission and HM Government www.gov.uk

‘Keep it Clean’ biosecurity campaign

How biosecurity can prevent the introduction and spread of tree pests and diseases https://www.gov.

uk/guidance/prevent-the-introduction-andspread-of-tree-pests-and-diseases

Plant Healthy planthealthy.org.uk/resources

Forestry and tree health resources www.forestresearch.gov.uk/tools-andresources/fthr

Moor Trees Biosecurity Policy moortrees.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/ Moor-Trees-bio-security-policy.pdf

Woodland Trust Where Do Our Trees Come From? www.woodlandtrust.org.uk/about-us/what-wedo/we-plant-trees/uk-sourced-and-grownscheme

WHO TO CONTACT ABOUT PLANT HEALTH

In England and Wales, contact your local office of APHA’s Plant Health and Seeds Inspectorate or their headquarters in York. Phone 0300 1000 313,

email planthealth.info@apha.gov.uk or visit www.gov.uk/plant-health-controls

In Scotland, contact the Scottish Government’s Horticulture and Marketing Unit. Phone 0131 244 8923, email hort.marketing@gov.scot or visit www.gov.scot/PlantHealth/PlantDiseases

In Northern Ireland, contact the DAERA Plant Health Inspection Branch. Phone 0300 200 7847, email planthealth@daera-ni.gov.uk or visit daera-ni.gov.uk/topics/plant-and-tree-health/ about-plant-and-tree-health

Tubex

USEFUL RESOURCES

SITE SELECTION AND WOODLAND CREATION

Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs (Defra) defra.gov.uk MAGIC Map Application

Forestry Commission www.forestresearch.gov.uk/tools-andresources/fthr/forester/ Map Browser

British Geological Survey bgs.ac.uk

n iGeology - British Geological Survey

n mySoil - British Geological Survey

UK Habitat Classification ukhab.org

Forestry England www.forestryengland.uk/our-offices

Scottish Forestry forestry.gov.scot/contact

Natural Resources Wales

Woodland creation naturalresourceswales.gov.uk/?lang=en

Irish forest and timber industry –Forestry Directory and Portal www.forestry.ie/component/contact/contact/4general/1?Itemid=148

BIODIVERSITY AND NATURE STEWARDSHIP

National Biodiversity Network nbn.org.uk

Joint Nature Conservation Committee jncc.gov.uk

IUCN Red List of Threatened Species www.iucnredlist.org

GENERAL GUIDANCE ON VOLUNTEER MANAGEMENT

The National Council for Voluntary Organisations (NCVO) www.ncvo.org.uk

The Conservation Volunteers Community support network and grants www.tcv.org.uk/communities

HEALTH AND SAFETY

Volunteer Centre East Sussex https://www.vces.org.uk/wp-content/ uploads/2017/01/Essential-Guide-to-Healthand-Safety-of-Volunteers-NL.pdf

Health and Safety Executive www.hse.gov.uk/voluntary

BUSINESS PLANNING

British Business Bank

Advice and templates: www.startuploans.co.uk/ business-plan-template

GRANTS

GrantNav – an open data platform grantnav.threesixtygiving.org

The Charity Excellence Framework – Free to use Funding Finder Grant Directory and Guidance www.charityexcellence.co.uk/Home FundingFindersResources

Government website to search for funding from your local council www.gov.uk/apply-funding-communityproject

Community Foundations network www.ukcommunityfoundations.org

The National Lottery Community Fund www.tnlcommunityfund.org.uk

The People’s Postcode Lottery www.postcodetrust.org.uk

Forestry Commission eAlerts

Sign up to find out about central government grants

www.gov.uk/government/collections/emailalerts-ealerts-for-grants-and-regulationscustomers

GOVERNANCE AND LEGAL STRUCTURES

NCVO

www.ncvo.org.uk/help-and-guidance/settingup/choosing-your-legal-structure

Charity Commission www.charitycommission.gov.uk

Companies House www.companieshouse.gov.uk

Whatever you choose to do – whether to grow trees, plant them or manage a woodland – we hope this guide gives you an insight to the wonder of working with trees. The most important thing is to have fun!

In partnership with DEFRA through its Shared Outcomes and Green Recovery Challenge fund programmes.