The Travellist Issue 2

March 2015 Issue 2

MEET THE BEDOUIN OF THE SINAI BELARUS, THE GREAT EUROPEAN UNKNOWN Anton Trafimovich Michael Marzhan A SENSATION OF INDIA HOME IN INGLEWOOD, CALIFORNIA Jamila Jabulani Daniel Joseph Pye BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA: THOUGHTS AND REFLECTIONS Laura Jean Zito

Belarusian women gathering flowers Photography by Vadim Zamirovski Š 2015

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR I am writing this on the red eye from Kuala Lumpur to Perth, Australia. There’s another two hours to this journey but I can never sleep on night flights. Maybe it’s the endless hum of the engines or the constant tramping up and down of the aisles at all hours of passengers using the lavatories that makes it so hard to sleep. Whatever it is, I resign myself to watching the minutes tick by on my watch and wonder at how the other passengers are able to sleep so soundly.

I have met some remarkable people on each of my journeys, each with their own knowledge and anecdotes to share. It’s always fascinating to hear such stories especially from those who have set out to fulfil their own personal goals. Language exchanges, geocaching treasure hunts, intercontinental Skype dinner sessions - I realise now that each and every single one of us are essentially aiming for the same thing. Simply, to make it easier for people to connect with one another. No matter where we go, we are all looking to make connections. Seeking out others to share our time, our experiences, our thoughts, our stories, because in the end a place is only as good as the people you know there.

With the successful launch of the inaugural issue of The Travellist and the completion of the first run of printing, we explore new places and become acquainted with new photographers and writers in this second issue. Awardwinning photographer Laura Jean Zito takes us on a journey to meet the Bedouin of the Sinai amongst whom she spent many years living and interacting with. In Europe, journalist Anton Trafimovich introduces his country Belarus and shares with us the history and culture of this relatively lesser-known destination. Michael Marzhan travels to India while Jamila Jabulani takes us on a tour of Inglewood, California. And finally, Australian writer Daniel Joseph Pye reflects on the history of Bosnia & Herzegovina and shares his thoughts on the future of this formerly war-torn nation.

A very big thank you to Anya Ru who spearheaded the design and worked closely with me for the launch of this second issue. What started off as a jumble of ideas and styles eventually amalgamated into something quite unique and dynamic, so many kudos to Anya for successfully bringing it all together. In addition, we begin to move towards a revamp of the website as well as fine-tuning our aims for The Travellist – that is, to grow as a community for photographers, writers, artists and travellers to connect and showcase their individual bodies of work.

Please enjoy the second issue of The Travellist and we hope it may give you some idea as to your next travel destination. Explore, experience and engage.

Editor-in-Chief The Travellist

................................................................................................................................................................................................

ISSUE 2 MARCH 2015 EDITORIAL Editor-in-Chief Ryner St John Art Director Anya Ru Illustrator Kim Antonissen Logos Chrestella Sanggra FEATURES Laura Jean Zito Daniel Joseph Pye Anton Trafimovich CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Jamila Jabulani Michael Marzhan PHOTOGRAPHERS Sarah Blesener (Bosnia & Herzegovina) Vadim Zamirovski (Belarus) PUBLICITY FEATURES Stephen Davis Sandra Lääne PUBLISHER Hachikō Group PRINTED BY Leaderpress Instant & General Printers www.leaderpress.com.au

2

March 2015

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Eva Lee Fleur Marquevielle Special Thanks Jelena Beljin DISCLAIMER No articles, illustrations, images or any other editorial content or publicity features herein may be reproduced without prior written consent of copyright holder. All images and articles contained within remain the property of the individual writer or photographer and is protected by copyright. The views and opinions expressed in this publication are those of the individual authors and do not necessarily reflect the views of the publication editorial. The publication and its contributors do not take responsibility for any travel advice contained within this publication as they are subject to real-time changes and are only intended as a guide.

The Travellist Magazine is published quarterly.

COPYRIGHT The Travellist thetravellist.eu All rights reserved © 2015 Cover photography Laura Jean Zito

CONTENTS 22

A WHITE SPOT ON THE EUROPEAN MAP: 10 REASONS TO GO TO BELARUS

by Anton Trafimovich p. 6

6

SPOTLIGHT: STEPHEN

DAVIS

p. 22

MAGNETIC SINAI

24

by Laura Jean Zito p.24

SPOTLIGHT: SANDRA

LÄÄNE

p. 44

46

BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA

by Daniel Joseph Pye p. 46

THE RENAISSANCE OF INGLEWOOD, CALIFORNIA: A CITY OF CHAMPIONS

by Jamila Jabulani p.58

SEARCHING FOR BREAKFAST

58

44 60

by Michael Marzahn p.60

March 2015

3

THE TRAVELLIST ISSUE 2 RYNER ST JOHN

Editor-in-Chief // Australia

I was born in Taiwan, an island nation in South-East Asia, but grew up in the great land down under. My hometown is Perth, Australia, which is one of the most laid back cities you will ever find. A graduate from the International Film School of Sydney, I have directed a number of short films, produced a music video which saw rotation on MTV Russia, and was a laureate for the 2012 Les Nuits Photographiques festival in Paris. My interests encompass themes that explore and question the human condition, focusing on the notions of identity and how we view ourselves in the world. Upon graduating from university, I spent the majority of my twenties experiencing life on the move – most notably one year spent in London, followed by two years in Sydney and then another year in Estonia. The place I want to visit most in the world is the French town of Carcassonne. The other place I really want to visit is the Hill of Crosses in Siauliai, Lithuania. I like Spanish people, I think they have a very unique culture. I love Estonia!

ANYA RU

Art Director // Russia

Anya Ru (Anna Ermolinskaya) is a freelance graphic, marketing, accessories and costume designer originally from St. Petersburg, Russia, where she was born. Anya completed the 7 year costume design course and graduated from the Philosophical Facultet of the State Pedagogical University, specialising in Culturology. In 2012, she moved to Italy where she created her Tango Magnolia brand of handmade accessories and clothes before relocating to London in 2013, where she currently works as an advertising and graphic designer. She speaks three languages fluently (Russian, English and Italian) and has knowledge of Hebrew and Japanese. She loves design, colours, animals, happy people and travelling. For examples of her work, visit www.cargocollective.com/TangoMagnolia and www.cargocollective.com/ AnyaRu

LAURA JEAN ZITO

Photographer // United States

Laura Jean Zito, Harvard University Honors graduate, stock photographer for NBC Network News, NYC, and feature films unit still photographer, is working on several photography book projects: on Sinai, In Nomads’ Land; on Ireland, Re: Generations; on Trees, Tree Hunt.

Magazine publishing includes Time; Cultural Survival Quarterly, and Irish America. Her photograph of a camel graces the cover of Curtin & London’s A Guide to Great Pictures and she also has a cover of I Live In Michael Hartnett by the Limerick Writers” Centre. Ms. Zito founded and ran a photography gallery in New York City, Fotoforum, on the 5th Avenue and also curated a group show at the Museo de Arte Moderno in Buenos Aires: “Fotoforum: 25 New York Photographers.” In March, 2009, she curated “Relief,” at Broadway Gallery, NYC, and in 2011, she curated “Art of the Garden” at the Haverford Library, 250 works by 100 artists, from which she made a video for Youtube.

Ms. Zito, a GRAND PRIZE winner in the Nikon Photography Contest International, has won purchase prizes for museum permanent collections at the James A. Michener Museum, the AKC Museum of the Dog, and the State Museum of Pennsylvania. She presently has a show at a café in Dublin. Ms. Zito was also awarded “BEST IN SHOW” for the Body of Work three times at regional weekend booth shows. At the 2002 Cape May Art Show, she won a first medal of any kind for photography in this show. In the Center For Fine Art Photography‘s “Street Photography,” she won the Juror’s Award from Michelle Dunn Marsh of “Aperture” and her work can be viewed at www.c4fap.org as well as in “The New Normal” curated by Edward Robinson of the MoMA. She has been selected for all three “Glimpses in Time” shows at the Joyce Gordon Gallery in Oakland, CA, designed to emulate famous photographers, published and available for purchase at BLURB: http://www.blurb. com/bookstore/detail/774014 4

March 2015

Biographies

Journalist // Belarus

ANTON TRAFIMOVICH

Anton Trafimovich is a journalist from Belarus. Born in East Germany in 1987, he was raised in the town of Slonim in western Belarus where his family moved in 1991. He graduated from the Institute of Journalism at the Belarusian State University and also spent one year in the United States completing a graduate program in Mass Communication at the Kansas State University. He has worked for several local, national and foreign media outlets. From 2009 to 2014 he worked as a reporter at Argumenty i Fakty v Belarusi, the third most popular newspaper in Belarus. Presently, he is working as a freelance journalist, focusing on reports and stories pertaining to society and culture.

VADIM ZAMIROVSKI

Photographer // Belarus

Vadim Zamirovski has been a photographer for the most popular Belarusian news-website TUT.BY since 2013. He used to work for such national newspapers as Belgazeta and Znamya Yunosti, as well as the news-agency Photo ITAR-TASS. He also supervises the photo contest “Belarus Press Photo�. Vadim was born in 1992 in the Northern Caucasus, then moved to Yakutia (Eastern Russia). His family ended up in Minsk in 1991. His life motto: Go ahead anytime. Cooking, travelling and biking are among his interests. He also loves to spend time working at his country-house.

Writer // Australia

DANIEL JOSEPH PYE

Photographer // Germany

MICHAEL MARZHAN

Daniel has a deep passion for anything creative, travel-related and off the beaten track.

He is fascinated by history, nature, new cultures, new languages, and facing the reality of the situation of all places he visits and immerses himself in. He is fond of meeting new people and spending time to learn the ways of life from the locals. Daniel began writing at a young age and has often reverted to this medium as a form of expression and imagination. Presently, Daniel is meticulously working on compiling and finalising selected tracks for an acoustic/alternative rock music album. While previous writing has primarily been associated with music and film scripts, he is excited to further expand his contributions to the world of travel writing. He is also planning on completing his first novel, inspired by the stories, exchanges and moments gleaned from his life experiences. Daniel’s ultimate goals encapsulate travelling the world and imparting a genuine and long lasting difference in the lives of those who need hope, change, chance and new possibilities.

Michael Marzhan is a German traveller and photographer from the city of VillingenSchwenningen. After graduating from business college, his career path has seen him work in accounting, tax consultation as well as in customer service. An avid traveller, he has visited India a total of 9 times now and tries to spend at least part of each year visiting (or revisiting) a different part of the world. A photography enthusiast, at least one of his assortment of different cameras is guaranteed to accompany him on each trip as he captures the wondrous beauty of life, nature and those small moments in every day life.

Blogger // United States

JAMILA JABULANI

Jamila Jabulani is a community organizer and blogger who loves to travel. Thus far, she has travelled to Senegal, Cape Verde, Brazil, Cuba, Puerto Rico, US Virgin Islands, The Bahamas, Paris, London, Canada, and over 25 major cities across the United States of America. Follow her on Twitter @ Changingmymind1.

Photographer // United States

SARAH BLESENER

Sarah Blesener is a freelance photographer based out of Minneapolis, Minnesota, specializing in documentary and portrait work. She graduated from North Central University with a degree in Youth Development, and an emphasis on International Studies. An extensive amount of her time and research has been poured into at-risk youth and youth organizations.

Photography has taken Sarah to over 30 countries. This has included documenting stories of community development following the earthquake in Haiti, and working with at-risk youth in St. Petersburg, Russia. The majority of her photography work is focused on marginalized youth and their struggle. She also attended a Russian academy focusing on the Russian language, which has enabled and propelled her work and personal projects in Russia as well as in post-Soviet countries March 2015

5

Anton Trafimovich • 10 Reasons to Visit Belarus

6

March 2015

Anton Trafimovich • 10 Reasons to Visit Belarus

Written by Anton Trafimovich // Photography by Vadim Zamirovski

There would be truth in saying that Belarus is the most magical country in the whole of Europe. Despite the fact that it’s quite big and populated, very few people have any idea where Belarus is. Even less people know anything about Belarus besides its capital city – Minsk.

I think this fact alone should encourage you to go straight to the Belarusian embassy tomorrow and apply for a visa!

March 2015

7

Anton Trafimovich • 10 Reasons to Visit Belarus

It’s really hard to say why Belarus is so unknown. Keep in mind that this country is really big. It’s ranked 13th in terms of area size within the European continent. Belarus is as big as Great Britain or Romania. It’s bigger than all of the Czech Republic, Austria and Slovakia combined! Moreover, Belarus is located in the very geographical center of Europe (well, to be more accurate, we better say that one of about a dozen geographical “centers” of Europe is found in Belarus.) Unlike our neighboring countries Poland, Lithuania and Latvia, Belarus did not embark in European integration during the mid ‘90s because of political isolation. That’s probably why everyone forgot about it.

WHERE IS BELARUS FROM?

Officially, the country named Belarus proclaimed its independence on March 25, 1918. However, it would be a half truth to say that it’s only a one century old state. The first pre-Belarusian states mentioned in the Chronicles in 862 AD were Polack Duchy and Turaŭ principalities in 980 AD. Both were separated from Kievan Rus, a medieval state considered the first Eastern Slavic nation and forebear to present day Russia.

When Kievan Rus eventually disintegrated and was invaded by the Mongols, mixed populations of Slavic and Baltic tribes united around the town of Navahrudak in the west of modern-day Belarus. This region was called Lithuania (the core of the future Grand Duchy of Lithuania) and had borders between the modern cities of Minsk and Slonim in Belarus, and Vilnius in Lithuania. By the 15th century, this area included the territories of modern Lithuania, Belarus, parts of Ukraine, Latvia, Estonia, Moldova, Poland and Russia, and had borders extending from the Baltic sea in the north to the Black sea at its southern borders. During this period, it would become the biggest state within Europe and was known as the Great Duchy of Lithuania, Ruthenia and Samogitia. The Great Duchy was a poly-ethnic state though the Ruthenian (pre-Belarusian) language was designated the official language since the majority of the population were of Slavic ancestry. But once the union between the Great Duchy and the Kingdom of Poland was signed, the nobles started switching to Catholicism and adopting Polish culture, while traditional culture and the language was preserved by the common folk. By the 16th century - the so-called

Golden century - the Great Duchy was at its peak.

It was during this period when the Bible was translated into Ruthenian language and became the first book printed in an Eastern Slavic state and the fourth Bible in the world translated into a local language.

In 1795, being a part of I Rzeczpospolita (in reference to the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth), the Great Duchy was occupied by the Russian Empire.

To assimilate the local population, the country was named as Byelorussia, literally translated as “White Russia”. Indeed, such a name was used for the eastern regions of the Great Duchy located on the left side of the Dnieper river. But this was a local name, and for just one region.

Over time, the term Byelorussia became entrenched, and when the Russian Empire collapsed at the start of the 20th century, local nationalists proclaimed the short-lived sovereign state of Belarus in 1918. By December, the Soviets had occupied Minsk and a new Byelorussian Soviet Socialist Republic was proclaimed the following year. In 1939, when Hitler occupied western and central Poland, Stalin entered eastern Poland, which is today the western part of modern-day Belarus.

This is how Belarus was united under USSR rule and in 1991 it declared independence from the USSR. The official and only correct name for the modern state is Belarus and the denonym is Belarusian [bɛləˈruːsiən].

Belarusian is an official language, along with Russian, and while the majority of the population claim it as their mother tongue, in everyday usage most Belarusians use the Russian language.

Belarusian is mostly spoken by nationalists and a small minority of people, as the government does not support the development of the national language and culture.

8

March 2015

Anton Trafimovich • 10 Reasons to Visit Belarus

REASONS TO VISIT BELARUS THE COUNTRY IN NOWHERE

Many languages still retain the old school name for the country which is literally translated as “White Russia.” For example, it takes just 12 hours to drive from Germany to Belarus, but if you say to anyone in Germany that you come from Belarus, they will most likely be confused. “Is it in Europe?” they will ask. But once you say “Weißrussland” they will nod approvingly. When people in the U.S. were asking me where Belarus was, sometimes I would tell them that it’s next to the state of Oregon and many believed me! A mother of my American friend still thinks that he went to learn the Russian language in Belize, not Belarus. So if you want to visit Belarus before it becomes a new trend, go now and fill the gap on your travel list of European countries.

1

March 2015

9

Anton Trafimovich • 10 Reasons to Visit Belarus

2

HOLLYWOOD AND ISRAEL MOTHERLAND

While Belarus has only been independent for about twenty two years, this land gave birth to five presidents, with three of them being the first presidents of their newborn states. Just two of them are Belarusians. The first is the current and the only president Belarus has ever had, Lukashenka. Another Belarusian, Mikalaj SudziloĹ­ski was the first president of the Hawaii State Senate in 1903. A number of presidents and prime ministers born in Belarus were among the first leaders of the State of Israel. The thing is that the Jewish were dominating in a majority of Belarusian towns before WWII. Some prominent Belarusian Jews include Chaim Weizmman from the town of Motal in southern Belarus, who became the first President of Israel. Two more presidents and three prime ministers of Israel were also born in Belarus. Also, many Hollywood names such as Louis Mayer (MGM cinema studio co-founder), David Sarnoff (a father of television in the U.S.) and Larry King (famous anchor) have Belarusian-Jewish roots.

Each time you go shopping at Marks AND Spencer you should also keep in mind that it was started by Michael Marks, a Jewish guy from the town of Slonim, Belarus, who moved to the UK to start his business.

3

THE LONGEST-SERVING PRESIDENT OF EUROPE

Aliaksand Lukashenka came to power in 1994 and is still the only president modern Belarus has ever known. Some of you were just born when he started ruling. I would need the whole article to explain how this happened, but the fact is that Lukashenka remains the longest president in power in Europe. No one knows how much support he actually has. Officially, he receives around 80 percent of the vote every time there is a presidential election, but a huge group - mostly students, the business community and Western-oriented people - oppose the regime of Lukashenka. More than ten years ago, Lukashenka was referred to as the last dictator of Europe by the US Secretary of State, a moniker that sticks today. So if you want to check-in at the only recognized dictatorship in Europe, please, you are very welcome here!

10

March 2015

Anton Trafimovich • 10 Reasons to Visit Belarus

4

THE LAST ANTI-CAPITALIST EUROPEAN STATE

If you want to eat a “real” hamburger when in Belarus, you can go to one of eight McDonalds. Not eighty, not eight hundred, but eight! There are no Burger Kings nor KFCs. No Starbucks in Belarus neither. Walking around Minsk city center you will never see any familiar brands. Just a couple of Russian and Baltic food chains you might recognize. The reason is that the government creates really complex regulations for foreign capital to be invested in the Belarusian economy. This is why only the Russians, the Chinese and the guys from Middle East flourish here.

They know the special rules that Westerners do not. This makes Belarus attractive to left-leaning people and communists.

March 2015

11

Anton Trafimovich • 10 Reasons to Visit Belarus

12

March 2015

Anton Trafimovich • 10 Reasons to Visit Belarus

5 SEE SOCIALISM IN ACTION

Most businesses in Belarus are still stateowned. Officially, healthcare is free (mostly) as well as education (though it’s getting more commercialized every year.) The government has a paternal policy and “cares” about its citizens.

That’s how we got super low rates on housing loans before the crisis of 2009 when many people used state loans to buy several apartments.

Belarus also has the cheapest utilities in the whole region. Winter bills will never get higher than €20-30 for a 2-3 bedroom apartment each month. The flip side of all that is that the quality of products and services suffers. People have the chance to buy a “cheap” apartment, but the block-house as well as the entrance would look really ugly. Moreover, you probably won’t have any space for parking and for a playground by your house. Same thing with facilities: they’re cheap, but don’t expect good service. People can’t even regulate the temperature in their apartments - everyone has the same heating according to the state standard.

March 2015

13

Anton Trafimovich • 10 Reasons to Visit Belarus

14

March 2015

Anton Trafimovich • 10 Reasons to Visit Belarus

March 2015

15

Anton Trafimovich • 10 Reasons to Visit Belarus

TRANSITIONAL ARCHITECTURE

Belarus is located between Eastern and Western cultures and has always been combining the features of both. Seeing the medieval churches in Belarus is unlike any you will have ever seen before.

The 15th century Orthodox church in Synkovičy will blow your mind right out of the water. It’s a fortress and a church at the same time, it’s Eastern Orthodox and it’s Gothic at the same time! No architectural styles could describe this church-fortress, so we call it Belarusian Gothic. Another astonishing church is Sarja on the border with Latvia and if you visit Palessie, you can see three to four hundred year old wooden churches. Minsk is the ultimate example of 20th century transition. A few old districts in the midtown combine Stalin baroque and ugly high scrapers of the previous years. Walk for ten minutes and then you will suddenly see the triumph of geometry and Malevic (by the way, he worked in Belarus and had a great impact on the Viciebsk school of art) because most Soviet and post-Soviet houses are just plain cubes with no decorations.

16

March 2015

Anton Trafimovich • 10 Reasons to Visit Belarus

EVERYONE IS A MILLIONAIRE HERE

Belarus is the only country in Europe that doesn’t have coins in circulation. The speed of inflation and devaluation is so high that prices increase by ten times every couple of years. In 1999, when the 5 million banknote was the largest in circulation, we cut three zeros off our notes. Today the smallest banknote is 100 rubles and the average salary is 5-6 million rubles, which equates to about €300 euros. For 1 million rubles you can buy two pairs of jeans or 50 kg of apples. Nothing else. One month rent for a two-bedroom apartment in Minsk costs over 6 million rubles while a new VW golf costs over 300 million rubles. So if you exchange 100 euro note at the bank, the cashier will give you over 1.5 million rubles. So make sure you take a photo of prices when you are in Belarus.

Afterward, you can state that you’ve been to the most “expensive” country in the world where one beer costs 12,000 rubles!

7

March 2015

17

Anton Trafimovich • 10 Reasons to Visit Belarus

18

March 2015

Anton Trafimovich • 10 Reasons to Visit Belarus

8

NON-STOP KAYAKING

Belarus has one of the lowest population densities in Europe. There are still no agglomerations in the country so most cities and towns are like islands of civilization hidden in the forest. Most of the area is covered with forests, swamps, lakes and rivers. There are ten thousand lakes and twenty thousand rivers and creeks in Belarus. Many lakes in the north of the country have glacier origins and are connected by creeks, making long lake chains you can kayak for days. Forests are huge here! Belarus share the oldest preserved forests in Europe. Bielaviežskaja pušča together with Nalibockaja pušča are great places to realize how miserable humans are in comparison with perfect nature.

9 THE AMAZON OF EUROPE

Prypiać river in the southern region of Palessie is sometimes called the European Amazon.

The river and its swampy valley create unique nature conditions. If you go there in spring, when the snow is melting, you can see how floods are creating an inland sea. Ancient Greeks called it the Sea of Herodotus. This is what you should think about, when you look around and see nothing but water. When the river and swamps flood they inundate thousands of square kilometers. The strangest thing is that there have been people living in this area for centuries.

They build houses on high places, have no basements and everyone keeps a boat in their garage. For some time the boat was the only transport that enabled them to get to the mainland.

March 2015

19

Anton Trafimovich • 10 Reasons to Visit Belarus

THE SWAMPIEST COUNTRY

Belarus is a really flat county. There are several hilly regions but you’ll be lucky if you find something to climb. The highest point is just 345 meters and it doesn’t look like a mountain at all. It takes you 3 seconds to “climb” this hill in summer and 5 seconds in winter (since it’s slippery). This is why we call our swamps “mountains”. Around ten percent of the country is covered with swamps and bogs. It used to be even more before the Soviets started melioration. Swamps have a very sacral sense for Belarusians. It was feeding them (cranberry is one of our national foods) and rescuing them (when enemies were coming, locals would hide in the forests and in the swamps.) Now people are returning to the swamps and organizing hiking and birdwatching tours there.

It’s the greatest feeling you can have when you dive into a lake located in the middle of a huge swamp. You hike for ten kilometers, suffer from sunburn and aching feet since every step is so hard, but once you reach the lake you have the same feeling as if you’ve reached the top of a mountain.

10 20

March 2015

Anton Trafimovich • 10 Reasons to Visit Belarus

March 2015

21

Spotlight

STEPHEN DAVIS SCREENWRITER AND SCRIPT EDITOR LOSTKITTEN.INK

Who are you?

My name is Stephen Davis.

My Grandfather wrote poems about his false teeth. I am a writer. My teeth are real.

22

March 2015

Spotlight WHICH PART OF THE WORLD DO YOU CALL HOME? I live in the Blue Mountains in New South Wales, Australia.

TELL ME SOMETHING FASCINATING ABOUT YOUR CITY The Blue Mountains is an elevated community that looks down onto a national park.

The national park has a blue hue because the vegetation below breathes a chemical that creates a blue haze. The view is beautiful from our community, like looking through a blue gauze.

WHAT IS YOUR SPECIAL SKILL? I am a screenwriter and a script editor. I am also unbeaten at the board game Cluedo and also always the first player bankrupt in any game of Monopoly - guaranteed.

WHERE IN THE WORLD WOULD YOU LIKE TO VISIT? I’d like to either go back to where I was born, Paisley in Scotland, or to my wife’s cultural origin, Russia. She has never been there and has relatives she has never met.

LIST A MEMORABLE TRAVEL EXPERIENCE YOU HAVE HAD I was in Los Angeles in 2001 for work. On my departure at LAX I started a conversation with an actor. During our discussion I was plagued with thinking that I knew him. His face was so familiar. As we said our goodbyes and walked to our respective gates, I suddenly realised. He was Bruce Payne.

He played the hijacker in the Wesley Snipes air plane thriller, Passenger 57. He was the villain who tried to crash the plane. Later as I sat on the flight heading back to Sydney, I recalled our conversation.

We were happy and optimistic about the future. A few hours later the planes flew into the World Trade Centre and I had come home to a new world.

WHAT SERVICES DO YOU OFFER? I offer a script editing service for writers with either a concept or first draft. I work closely with the writer, helping build their first or second draft. I set deadlines, offer exercises but most importantly offer a sounding board and dialogue to aid in the realisation of their idea.

WHAT HAS BEEN A HIGHLIGHT OF YOUR CAREER? I was sitting in the cinema about to watch 8 Legged Freaks. Just before the movie started, the trailers played. A trailer played for my second feature film called Blurred. The audience laughed. It was a relief.

I also found myself dancing with Will Smith at an after-party for I, Robot. But that’s another story.

WHERE CAN WE FIND OUT MORE INFORMATION ABOUT YOU? On my website lostkitten.ink IF WE COME TO THE BLUE MOUNTAINS, CAN WE VISIT YOU? Of course. Get in contact with me via my website. I’ll show you the blue gauze.

March 2015

23

MAGNETIC

SINAI Photography and article by Laura Jean Zito

Sinai is a tourist magnet, a neutral meeting ground for people of every race and culture, encouraging a natural migration of Westerners and Middle Easterners alike, an overlooked asset in the tool chest of the peace process.

Both the old and the “new� Sinai emanate peace from this spiritual place to all the countries from whence hail its modern adventure-seekers.

Laura Jean Zito • Magnetic Sinai

MY CHANCE TO

to photograph the Sinai Bedouin is a story of fascination meeting circumstances that dispelled my fear of the “other,” instilled by inherited cultural messages. I discovered a photographer’s paradise, visually and symbolically. I was a photographer in search of a subject. In the black forms gliding along the shoreline that were the Bedouin women, their beauty hidden under uncanny amounts of black robe, I found a great parallel to the apparent simplicity of the desert where it meets the sea, the beige and the blue in endless expanse, belying a splendiferous quilt of color beneath the sea’s surface in the myriad forms of the coral reef and its aquatic visitors.

The Bedouin allowing me to photograph them was a huge leap of faith and trust. I found photography a window through which meetings of the two mindsets of East and West took place. Initially loathe to allow me any photography at all, resistance was replaced by joy and gratitude in a priceless educational process, most obvious in the alchemic experience of finding a picture of a loved one in my bag. Bringing the pictures back was of course a highly integral part of the process.

26

March 2015

Laura Jean Zito • Magnetic Sinai

March 2015

27

Laura Jean Zito • Magnetic Sinai

ARABIC SPELLING In Arabic spelling, each word is composed of three consonants, and each dialect pronounces the unwritten vowels differently. An experienced speaker can make out the word even though two pronunciations may not sound the same. The spelling, therefore, is arbitrary. Though you might find certain spellings on the internet, they are not necessarily the “correct” spellings. They are spellings that search engines might have recirculated more times than others, making them seem “more popular.” El Areesh might well also be written as Al Arish while Sharem is the same as Sharm-el-Sheikh, though people say “Sharem” when abbreviating to the shorter version. This is the same with the town of Nueba, which is often spelled Nuweiba among other variations. Much of this is due to the fact that as the tourist industry developed, many non-English speaking people became involved with writing signs and simply chose to spell place names phonetically, resulting in a wide variation of different spellings for different places. But that is part of the charm, all the oddly spelled handwritten signs!

Nueba Musseina is the designation given to that part of Nueba where the Musseina tribe are congregated – it is their village. Nueba is a very spread out town, with pockets of habitation sprinkled along a fifteen kilometre coast. Coming from Eilat, one arrives first at Bir Swer, then at Ras Shattayn, followed by Nueba Tarrabin, Nueba Medina, Nueba Duna, Nueba Port and finally Nueba Musseina. Nueba Medina (city) is where one can find the hospital, the bank, the internet café , the telephone services etc. Nueba Port is for getting a ferry to Jordan or buying cheap goods that the traders bring over from Jordan on the ferries. Bir Swer and Ras Shattayn have several individual resorts, called “camps.” Each camp is run by an individual Bedouin or Egyptian owner.

Musseina and Tarrabin are the names of the tribes, but they are also the names used to designate locales, especially in the specific areas where those tribes live in the town of Nueba, which has both Tarrabin and Musseina Bedouin. Tarrabin populate El Areesh, but are not found in Dahab or farther south. There are many tribes in Sinai as a whole, more than two dozen - the Aligat, the Jebeliya, the Huwaitat etc. You will see that most of the tribes populate very specific areas in Sinai.

Laura Jean Zito • Magnetic Sinai

WHEN I FIRST TRAVELLED

to Sinai very few Bedouin spoke English.

I only remember one who was fluent. In order to photograph the Bedouin, I had to learn the unique Bedouin dialects, and spend great quantities of time befriending the people. The Bedouin called me “Noura min Soura,” or “Laura of the Pictures.”

Noura, ironically, means “light” in Arabic. By learning the language, word by word written into my notebook, I was able to photograph situations normally completely off-limits to foreigners, for instance, the large congregations of men discussing the news, or feasting, called maga’ads.

In earlier times, all the discussion, of news and politics mainly, was in the form of ad-libbed poetry. Even if a man wanted to tell a woman how much he liked her, it was considered impolite unless phrased in poetic verse.

Playing the simsimiyya, a stringed instrument commonly used by Bedouins for social occasions

Baking pita bread

Laura Jean Zito • Magnetic Sinai

Girls at dawn preparing food

Mohammed catching birds

Bringing feed to the camels March 2015

31

Woman with blond child

Laura Jean Zito • Magnetic Sinai

VISITING CAIRO IN

a UN mail truck, I arrived to the border between Egypt and Israel, which at the time was at El Areesh. Not realizing the border was closed on Friday, I found myself waiting out the weekend there.

The hotel owner, Mohammed, told me not to worry. This would prove to be the most interesting weekend of my life. He invited me to walk into the desert across the street from the hotel with his seven brothers to meet some Bedouin.

He first introduced me to this woman, with her blond child. Because she allowed me to photograph her, I gained confidence that I could make images of the Bedouin of South Sinai, though everyone had informed me to the contrary.

RETURNING FROM

El Areesh to Dahab, I found myself near a Musseina Bedouin settlement, named Ossela. Sitting on the ground taking this photo of the village, a black form near me that I thought was a pile of clothes started to move.

A tiny woman motioned to me to come to her house and drink tea. She wanted to interest me in the purchase of some silver and beadwork. I really only wanted photos, but saw my chance, and signaled to her with sign language that the man I was with had all the money and that he would have to come too. While she was busy showing him the goods, and not paying attention to me, I was able to get my first photo of the Bedouin in Dahab, a girl making pita over the fire.

I had seen Bedouin wandering the The fire was often made right inside the shores of the Red Sea in Sinai, and been hut, though it might be highly flammable, fascinated by their faraway flowing robes as it was made from palm fronds. and camel trains and seemingly aimless wanderings, and now this was the first I also photographed a woman time I was sitting down to lunch with breastfeeding. I was so intrigued that she them. But these Bedouin in El Areesh didn’t appear to care that her breast was had been under Egyptian rule already visible to my male friend, but was anxious for many years and didn’t have the same about keeping her mouth covered. The intact code of customs as do the Bedouin mouth is considered the most sexual part in Sinai, who had been much more of the body to a Bedouin while the breast is considered purely functional. isolated.

March 2015

33

Laura Jean Zito • Magnetic Sinai

NO PLAN TO STAY

in Dahab longer than a week or so possessed me that first week. But a few days after I was there, I was taking a walk across a vast expanse and came upon this young lady minding her goats. I sat down with her and the fact that she let me take her picture convinced me to try to stay as long as I could and get as many pictures as possible. I later found out that two braids from the forehead wrapped around the sides of the head meant she was unmarried.

Married women still pull the hair up to the top of the forehead and then bring it back around, but flatten it out with long flat bobby pins.

I found myself addicted to the wealth of imagery I found here. Maybe the

34

March 2015

Laura Jean Zito • Magnetic Sinai

fact that the culture was based on resourcefulness intrigued me.

These boys made kites from cloth and string. They also made cars from sticks and tin cans. They use their imaginations and perhaps that is what allows them to become great storytellers, poets and musicians.

Nothing is wasted in the desert. Masters of resourcefulness, the Bedouin are always making anything out of nothing.

Whenever the Bedouin set their minds to building structures, such as this fence made out of driftwood and lashed together with twine and wire scraps, their creative, resourceful side shines forth. The male child runs free outside the fence, while the mother is more or less restricted inside. The fence and veil do provide protection for the women as the men fight with external foes, and perhaps that was their original purpose.

March 2015

35

Laura Jean Zito • Magnetic Sinai

The Bedouin’s old style of building isn’t safe from marauders any more and gone are the gentle, quiet open-air days.

The new external threat is the Egyptian government hoping to move millions to Dahab from Cairo. The infiltration into the Bedouin village of foreigners may be impossible to halt, as already Egyptians and Europeans now live side by side in Ossela. Now people compete for the proximity to the shoreline, disregarding rules to build 30 feet back. Instead of preserving the oasis as a common garden for all, many developers chopped down the date palms, or just built around them! The Bedouin culture may well die out altogether in the next fifty years as Bedouin now fight with other Bedouin over the possession of lands instead of reaching together toward common goals, such as keeping their village intact.

The young are under the influence of the West now and drugs are infiltrating their world along with materialistic values.

TIME BRINGS CHANGE,

and, it used to be, under Israeli rule, the Musseina were extremely restrictive about letting me photograph them, whereas the Tarrabin never complained. Now the tables are turned and the Musseina frequently invite me to photograph them, while the Tarrabin are less encouraging

36

March 2015

and appreciative. This is probably due to more recent proselytizers from Saudi Arabia, as the Tarrabin originally hailed from Saudi Arabia 400 years ago and the Musseina are indigenous to Sinai. The Musseina originally invited the Tarrabin Bedouin from Saudi Arabia to help them fight yet another tribe, the Aligat, in a territorial battle. Although there have been fierce rivalries in the past between the tribes, they are learning to work together to maintain the Bedouin way of life in the face of outside threats to their survival. Also, Dahab, where more Musseina live, though some live in Nueba too, has become a tourist boomtown, with over 40 dive centers. Nueba, on the other hand, without such a great coral reef, has become a ghost town for tourists, relying heavily on the influx of Israelis crossing the border an hour north in Eilat, which has been curbed of late for political reasons.

Tourists flock to Dahab for diving, parasailing and windsurfing as Dahab is considered the wind capital of the world and now windsurfing championships are regularly held there. As the young Bedouin grow up in this tourist mecca, many young Bedouin men seek foreign wives and passports to Europe. The young girls as teenagers, however, have to drop the wild ways of the streets and move to the harem. This must be more difficult for them than for those Bedouin girls brought up inside the mountains who never saw another lifestyle.

Laura Jean Zito • Magnetic Sinai

March 2015

37

Laura Jean Zito • Magnetic Sinai

The picture on the previous page won the Grand Prize in the Nikon Photo Contest International, I took on a dare to get a great picture. Nueba would never disappoint in such a venture. Bedouin are like people everywhere, each an unique character, some as honest as a man can be, and others more conniving, some lazy and others more spirited, some talkative and others quiet.

But all Bedouin love nothing more than freedom. As their world becomes hemmed in by trappings of modern life, freedom of thought will hopefully supplant a disappearing freedom of the open landscape, and leave behind a rigid attachment to outmoded traditions, both physical and mental, especially those pertaining to the suppression of women. I believe I was at the same time a mascot, an anomaly and a role model for Bedouin, unused to seeing a woman travel about by herself, but always curious to see new pictures I produced. Likewise, Westerners have much to learn from Bedouin, who, like American Indians, have a deep respect for and symbiosis with the natural world they inhabit.

GETTING TO SINAI

may seem daunting at first, but once you get through the hoops, you will see that people’s remonstrances not to go are based on a lot of media hype.

The Bedouin in Sinai are more than welcoming as their livelihood depends on tourists. The border strictures are not

Laura Jean Zito • Magnetic Sinai

really strenuous, and the Egyptians, too, welcome the extra dollars that tourists bring to their country. The Israelis can be vigorous in their inspections and questioning but this gives one a feeling of great security rather than a feeling of stress.

FROM LONDON

You can play it safe and fly to Sharm elSheikh, Egypt, from Gatwick, London, on a myriad of charter flights (some as cheap as €35!) and then grab a taxi from the airport into Na’ama Bay. Spend the night as you will arrive too late to get the bus northward to the Sinai towns of Dahab or Nueba, where you are much more likely to find Bedouin, and get the bus the following day. Unless you have already arranged a transfer, taking a taxi to Dahab can be expensive ($100.00) unless you have a few people together in a group. Once I hitch-hiked from the highway in front of the airport through the checkpoint coming out of Sharm on the road north to Dahab, and I telephoned a Bedouin I knew to meet me after the checkpoint and he drove me to Dahab! I would not recommend this method until you get to know people!

FROM ISRAEL

For the more adventurous, you can take a charter flight to Tel Aviv for discounted fares from just about anywhere; get the train to the central bus station; and from there catch the #394 or #390 bus from the central bus station on HaTemarim Boulevard to Eilat for about 80 shekels.

42

March 2015

You can get the #15 bus to the Israeli/ Egyptian border at Taba if you can reach the Eilat bus station in time for the last bus to the border, which leaves at 11:00 PM except for Friday (leaves at 3:00 PM) and Saturday (at 7:00 PM.) If not, you can take a taxi to the border which will cost you about 35 shekels, about $17.00.

You can also find a cheap hotel or hostel, like the one just behind the bus station, and get the bus in the morning to the border. That way you can see where you are going during the day once you arrive in Sinai.

AT THE ISRAELI/ EGYPTIAN BORDER

You will need some Israeli shekels to pay the border tax in Israel as well as Egyptian pounds to buy the visa ($15.00) if you didn’t organize one ahead of time. To get a carriage to transport your luggage across the border without carrying it (as it is a long walk) costs $1.00 and to get a “taxi” on the other side of the border to your destination will set you back around $30.00. If you need to, change a little money with a money changer in the shops across the main boulevard in front of the bus station as you will probably benefit from a better exchange rate there.

Many Bedouin and Egyptian taxi drivers will be waiting on the other side of the border to fill taxis with tourists. They operate like a mafia now and you can end up waiting for a long time as they fill a whole van with each newcomer until

Laura Jean Zito • Magnetic Sinai

the van is full. If you know someone to call ahead of time, that taxi driver can arrive for you “privately” and will not have to wait in the queue and thus you won’t either.

You can also catch the bus if you time things properly. The bus can drop you off at key points on the road and is far, far, cheaper - about 6 Egyptian pounds ($2.00), although everything is cheap in Egypt in comparison with western costs.

AT THE SINAI TOWNS OF NUEBA AND DAHAB

You can ask the bus driver to drop you off in Nueba, or, depending on the bus, go on farther to Dahab. Nueba attracts a more intellectual crowd as far as the other tourists go - the musicians, artists, writers - in that it is a sleepy, quiet place without a lot of activity. A decade ago a disco opened up there and lasted all of three weeks! Dahab is for the action/adventure crowd - lots of diving, partying, general carrying on. In comparison, Sharm-elSheikh attracts the more sophisticated who find their identity in being seen out in fine clothes and dining in fine restaurants. If you descend from the bus in Nueba, you still need to know how to navigate the area as Nueba is very spread out and offers many different cultural experiences.

is to descend the road at a camp called KumKum, run by a Bedouin named Ashesh. This is before you get to the Bedouin village of Tarrabin, followed by the Bedouin Village of Nueba Musseina.

Ashesh will make sure you have a very pleasant stay and you can count on his safaris. If you get out near Nueba Musseina, find a place called the Duna.

If you decide to journey on to Dahab, the bus drops you near the big expensive hotels from where you can take any car (there will be plenty available) waiting to transport people to the Lighthouse, called the Masbat in Arabic. That is where you can find plenty of inexpensive lodging and it is also where you’ll find all the action. As the individual pick-up truck/ taxi drivers will invariably try to take you to the lodge they work with, it is best to know where you want to go ahead of time. I would recommend Mirage if you want to be right on the beach, and Bedouin Lodge if you want to be looked after by great staff.

If you want to see Sharem, the most economical place to stay is a Bedouinowned lodge called Pigeon House. You can find your way to the Bedouin village of Wassette, a bit of a hike behind the hotel. The Bedouin are happy to see tourists and may well invite you into their homes. I am sure you will never regret and always remember your trip to Sinai no matter which aspect of this magical My recommendation, especially if you place you choose to explore! want to go on safaris inside the desert,

TO STAY AMONG THE BEDOUIN

March 2015

43

Spotlight

SANDRA LÄÄNE ARTIST AND PAINTER SANDRA-ART.EU

WHEN I WAS FOUR YEARS OLD, GROWING UP IN A COUNTRY HOUSE IN THE MIDDLE OF BEAUTIFUL ESTONIAN FIELDS AND FORESTS, MY FATHER HAD ME CONVINCED THAT HE WAS ACTUALLY AN ASTRONAUT BUT INSTEAD OF A SPACESHIP HE TRAVELLED WITH A LADDER. HE MADE ME BELIEVE THAT HE HAD AN INVISIBLE LADDER IN THE FIELD BEHIND OUR HOUSE. AND HE TOLD ME THAT WHENEVER THE MOON WAS FULL AND THE SKY WAS CLEAR, HE WOULD CLIMB THE LADDER TO OUTER SPACE. SOMETIMES AT NIGHT OUR WHOLE FAMILY WOULD GO OUT FOR A WALK AND EVERY TIME WE WOULD STOP AT THE PLACE WHERE THE INVISIBLE LADDER STOOD. FATHER WOULD SHOW US THE PLACES WHERE HE HAD LEFT HIS FOOTPRINTS ON THE MOON. I SAW THE PRINTS AND IT WAS PROOF ENOUGH FOR MY LITTLE HEAD.

I REMEMBER HOW MY OLDER SISTER MADE FUN OF ME FOR BELIEVING IT, BUT IN MY MIND IT HAD TO BE TRUE. MY FATHER TAUGHT ME THAT EVEN IF PEOPLE SAY THAT SOMETHING IS NOT POSSIBLE IT DOESN’T NECESSARILY MEAN THAT IT IS IMPOSSIBLE. YOU JUST HAVE TO CHANGE YOUR PERSPECTIVE. THROUGH THAT BEAUTIFUL LIE I FOUND MY OWN WAY TO TRAVEL TO SPACE. MY INVISIBLE LADDER COALESCED AND TOOK SHAPE THROUGH MY EXPLORATION OF ART. I LOVE MIXING SOMETHING REAL WITH SOMETHING ALIEN. AND TO HAVE ALTERNATIVE UNIVERSES BUT WITH THE TASTE OF HOME. STRANGE WOMEN, DARK MOONS AND AN ALOOF SETTING ARE THE CENTRE OF MY WORK AS WELL AS COLOURFUL, LARGER THAN LIFE IMAGES. 44

March 2015

Spotlight

March 2015

45

BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA Written by Daniel Joseph Pye // Photography by Sarah Blesener Perhaps better known for the recent Yugoslav Wars of the 1990s, the Balkan Peninsula has always been a melting pot of history, culture, and intrigue. Following the trauma of a war-torn decade that still haunt many to this day, Bosnia and Herzegovina has emerged as a truly remarkable destination to suit all types of travellers. Whatever your purpose or passion, this is a country that boasts the spirit and charm to take you away on a meaningful journey and open possibilities you never thought existed.

46

March 2015

March 2015

47

Daniel Joseph Pye • Bosnia & Herzegovina

48

March 2015

Daniel Joseph Pye • Bosnia & Herzegovina

While many revel in the awe-inspiring islands, beaches and historic towns and cities dotting the Dalmatian coastline in neighbouring Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina is just a simple bus or train ride away. Sleep appears as an afterthought as you traverse through serene villages, rolling hills, imposing mountains, ancient forests and untainted, calm flowing rivers. The tranquillity and enchantment of the land is apparent instantaneously. Yet beyond all the beauty, the scars of the past are evident. Landmine warnings, destroyed infrastructure and an uncountable proportion of bullet holes and mortar shells remind all, local and visitor, of the calamities previously inflicted.

The political, religious and ethnic structure of the nation presents a fascinating, yet complex composition of societal and economic structure. Enduring rule by the Romans, settlement by the Slavic tribes, and eventual conquest by the Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian empires, the country then merged with Yugoslavia to form one of six constituent federal units integrated in a

socialist structure. For much of the Cold War, Yugoslavia retained non-aligned status supporting neither the Soviet Union nor the western military alliance NATO. With the death of national leader Josip Tito in 1980 and the subsequent rise of nationalism, the move to recognition of full independence consequently incited debate among all of the main ethnic groups calling the nation home. The Muslim Bosniaks, Orthodox Serbs, and Catholic Croats had their own allegiances, positions and goals concerning the future. Following the passing of a referendum in February 1992 that called for Bosnia’s independence, the region exploded into warfare in what would be the bloodiest conflict ever witnessed in Europe since the end of World War II and which would only end with the eventual signing of the Dayton Agreement in Dayton, Ohio, in 1995.

While peace and cooperation has been fraught with constant obstacles, the people have since stood together and built a nation that continues to grow, learn, and challenge itself.

March 2015

49

Daniel Joseph Pye • Bosnia & Herzegovina

Standing today is in essence two significantly decentralised entities that operate almost as if they were quintessentially two separate countries, spilt in line with the mandates prescribed by the Dayton Agreement. The Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina predominately amalgamates the Bosniaks and Croats whilst Republika Srpska comprises an ethnic Serb majority.

While most countries have one key leader and one government party in charge at any one time, both entities have their own political structure, elections, constitutions and unique powers. Adding to the layers of governance and politics are cantons pertaining uniquely to the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina; municipalities defining each entity; and multiple official cities representing different regions in the country with their own elected mayor and independent city council.

Moreover, the presidency of the entire nation is administered on a rotational basis between a Bosniak, a Croat, or a Serb, who serve together for a term of 4 years.

Linguistically, the mutually intelligible languages of Bosnian, Serbian and Croatian are heard nationwide, with an interesting dual usage of both the Latin and Cyrillic scripts. Some knowledge of either is recommended in traversing the country and engaging with the locals.

50

March 2015

Daniel Joseph Pye • Bosnia & Herzegovina

March 2015

51

Daniel Joseph Pye • Bosnia & Herzegovina

My first visit to Bosnia and Herzegovina was a time of exploration, change, and extremely loose planning.

There were no restrictions or limitations. There was no clear cut itinerary or deadlines to meet. Winter loomed near yet in a state of irony, I felt a pulsating warmth and sense of purpose. This was where I needed to be, although the exact reasons would not manifest with any definitive clarity until I delved into what was on offer in this new, ambiguous place.

Located on the Neretva River is the glorious city of Mostar, the cultural capital of the Herzegovina region.

After disembarking at the bus station in Mostar, my mind wandered. The walk to the hostel was slow. It’s as if each street corner, curious local or neatly tucked away passageway had a story to tell. Perhaps one of a forbidden romance, a dangerous escapade or 52

March 2015

something more sinister, forgotten in time and lost in history. Trudging along the cobblestone streets, I finally stumbled across the corridor adjacent to my lodging, which I quickly discovered was covered in an uncountable number of bullet holes. It’s interesting how something as seemingly simplistic as an old, dilapidated wall can change one’s perspective. How fortunate I was not to have been there the night the shells hit and bullets were fired. And how lucky I am to stand in that alley years later, alive and well, to muse upon its history.

The Stari Most (Old Bridge) separates the picturesque city with the river lying below. Originally standing unscathed for approximately 427 years, the bridge was unfortunately destroyed as a consequence of the Bosnian War. In a paradoxical reflection, the bridge was more than merely a means of transportation or quick crossing of the river. It was more than exemplary architecture. It was even more than the cultural and social epitome and personification of what the city represented and promoted. In the dark, uncertain times of the Bosnian War, it was the most significant pillar of the city that once removed reflected the division of the city and the ideologies of its people. Eleven years after its destruction during the height of the war, the bridge was reconstructed and once again illuminates its original glory and prominence in the city. Today, it draws adventurers far and wide who seek to attempt

Daniel Joseph Pye • Bosnia & Herzegovina

the potentially fatal twenty four meter jump into the river below.

While the main roads and streets still contain the frame and hollows of homes and businesses, the Old Town has progressively been rebuilt. Shopkeepers proudly tend to their wares, traditional music resonates and the sweet smell of tea and local favourite burek draw many to the cafés dotted across the cobblestone alleyways.

Perhaps most striking is the hospitality, openness and generosity embodied by the locals. Assistance is provided without hesitation and conversation and friendliness to those from afar abounds. A casual hello may lead to a discussion about life or the meaningful exchange of stories, certain to leave you enthralled and potentially bewildered, forgetful of whatever place or activity you were on your way to.

mending. Niche cafés, quaint old houses and hidden gardens are easy to discover. Amidst all these elements you might just find some answers as to why you decided to embark on an adventure to Bosnia.

Encapsulated in the country are some of the most hypnotising and untouched natural landscapes and well preserved settlements in Europe. With what many regard as the cleanest and purest rivers in Europe, such locations are accessible literally only minutes outside of Mostar, as well as many of the other urban centres dotting the countryside. The Kravice waterfalls present an alluring option for a day trip or an overnight stay, as does the river at Blagaj, with a cavernous underground water system yet to be fully discovered.

Dating back to 1383, the seemingly deserted village of Počitelj entices visitors to ascend through its various passageways until one reaches the prominent citadel Escaping the city centre, you will not stumble across nestled comfortably atop the hill – a magnificent view illustrious museums, grandiose palaces or luxury hotels. of the surrounding countryside awaits as you arrive at You will find a city rebuilding and a people who are the citadel keep.

March 2015

53

Daniel Joseph Pye • Bosnia & Herzegovina

One of the most rewarding investments to date in my life has been the train ride from Mostar to the country’s capital, Sarajevo. A ten euro ticket can take you on one of the most breathtaking and awe-inspiring journeys overland imaginable. My eyes were fixated and glued upon the happenings, dreamlike nature, and state of being present outside of my window. Nestled within a picturesque valley and surrounded by the Dinaric Alps lies Sarajevo, the country’s capital. Also known as the Jerusalem of Europe and the Balkans, Sarajevo is the primary political, administrative and cultural centre in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Bazaars, churches, mosques, bars, traditional restaurants and cafés decorate the interior of the city which has progressively emerged as an energetic, vibrant and lively capital, intertwining a unique myriad of cultural elements and world defining moments. For example, the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria in the centre of the capital resulted in “the bullet that started World War I”. The street corner where this event occurred has now been converted into a museum for all to experience.

Recovering from the repercussions over a number of years, the city and country itself remained largely unnoticed or called upon by the rest of the world.

However, in what would come to be the longest siege recorded in the history of modern warfare, the inhabitants, trapped and forced into hiding, endured 1,425 days of artillery, mortar fire and the daily threat of sniper attacks administered from the surrounding hillsides and mountainous landscape. Ulica Zmaja od Bosne , or Sniper Alley, as it is more colloquially known,

54

March 2015

refers to the primary boulevard of the city which became infamous for the danger and risk posed to any who dared to travel across it. While morale and hope gradually diminished and the city arose as a symbol of despair and desperation, the people protruded faith and an unwavering commitment to resolution. As fire, debris and ash littered the once prosperous avenues and city squares, the road to reconstruction was never destined to be easy. Antiquities and famous works were irrevocably lost from this world. The stories and spirit of the survivors will, however, always remain.

And of the Bosnians themselves? What I witnessed were a proud and grateful people. I recall one night where I ducked into one of the nearby bars to meet some friends. It was a bustling scene due to an international football match that was being played that night. Lost amongst the crowd, we were warmly greeted by a group of locals and almost instantly found ourselves draped in a large blue and yellow national flag. “Hajmo hajmo Bosno Bosno, hajmo hajmo Hercegovino!” (Let’s go Bosnia, Let’s go Herzegovina!)

We chanted and danced along in tune with our new friends as Bosnia battled Portugal on the international stage. Although the result was a draw, the city still stood proud and a multitude of people took to the streets in delight and sung with passion and without compromise as an air of excitement filtered across the entire city. I can’t even begin to imagine the spectacle that would undeniably have ensued had the team emerged victorious.

Daniel Joseph Pye • Bosnia & Herzegovina

Whether you are keen to delve into history, take up the challenge of intense river rafting, get lost exploring the almost endless plains of mountains, or indulge in the local cuisine, Bosnia and Herzegovina can without doubt provide you with such opportunities. No longer fraught with the fears and devastation inflicted by war, the future continues to shine brighter and if anything, this is a place that has the ability to enhance your appreciation of life and help you find yourself and who you seek to be.

March 2015

55

Daniel Joseph Pye • Bosnia & Herzegovina

56

March 2015

Daniel Joseph Pye • Bosnia & Herzegovina

The Martyrs’ Memorial Cemetery Kovači commemorates the lives lost throughout the siege of Sarajevo.

March 2015

57

Jamila Jabulani • Inglewood, California

The Renaissance of Inglewood, California: A City of Champions Written by Jamila Jabulani // Illustrations by Kim Antonissen

When I first moved to Inglewood, just shy of one year ago, I didn’t know much about the city. I have since learned that Inglewood is beyond an extension of its neighbor, the city of Los Angeles.

Less than five miles from the Los Angeles International Airport (LAX), Inglewood is located in the South Bay and is within Los Angeles County. The city has a rich history and unique vibe that embraces diversity and

is steadily growing to fit its self-proclaimed name – City of Champions. It stretches approximately 9 square miles, lying between the cities of Los Angeles, Westchester, and Hawthorne. Here are a few spots that I encourage visitors to patronize while roaming the streets of “The Wood”, as it is lovingly referred to by its residents and referenced in a movie called The Wood starring Omar Epps, Taye Diggs and Sanaa Lathan.

FoodFood THE RUSTY POT CAFÉ: 324 S MARKET STREET, INGLEWOOD, CA 90301 This new southern restaurant has a welcome Cajun/ Creole twist and is owned by a mom and daughter duo (mom is the chef while the daughter is the waitress.)

The overloaded breakfast sandwich is one of the best items on the menu and the potato sides are cooked with onions and bell peppers with just enough seasoning to conjure up fond childhood memories of eating breakfast prepared by your grandma. The ambiance is simple yet inviting and the food is cooked to order and full of flavor.

58

March 2015

My favorite breakfast joint offers indoor and outdoor seating as well as the pleasant aroma of catfish, chicken and waffles, and shrimp and grits. http://www.facebook.com/rustypotcafe DULAN’S SOUL FOOD KITCHEN: 202 E. MANCHESTER BOULEVARD, INGLEWOOD, CA 90301 A community staple, Dulan’s provides delicious soul food nourishment to the delight of residents and tourists alike. It is buffet style so have an idea of what you want because the line starts outside and as soon as you step inside, it’s time to place your order! If you

Jamila Jabulani • Inglewood, California are looking for generous portions of southern comfort food like oxtails, short ribs, and peach cobbler then this is your spot! www.soulfoodkitchenla.com JJ’S BISTRO RESTAURANT & CATERING: 401 E. HILLCREST BOULEVARD, INGLEWOOD, CA 90301 Made more so popular by the reality television show

Preachers of LA, this restaurant is a healthy option with vegetarian items for those who aren’t into heavy soul food yet desire a similar taste. No fried foods here! Flavorful soups and salads rule the menu. The Bistro is named after the owner’s beloved dog who often makes a cameo on Preachers of LA. https://www.facebook.com/pages/JJs-Bistrorestaurant

EntertEntertainment ainment

THE FORUM: 3900 WEST MANCHESTER BOULEVARD, INGLEWOOD, CA 90305 Once home to the Los Angeles Lakers basketball team and the Los Angeles Kings Hockey team, this cozy entertainment venue re-opened last year and hosts concerts by artists such as Lady Gaga, Sam Smith, Chris Brown, Fleetwood Mac, and Maroon 5; award shows like the VMAs (Video Music Awards); comedy tours; and sporting events. With perfected acoustics and Vegas-style lighting, the Forum has a capacity of 17,505 and is just a few minutes away from the 405 freeway and LAX airport. www.thelaforum.com/ THE SAVOY ENTERTAINMENT CENTER: 218 SOUTH LA BREA AVENUE, INGLEWOOD, CA 90301 A performance haven for R&B artists, this is a great place to let loose and get down without being judged.

The typical age range is 25 to 40 and the club features hip hop, R&B, and reggae music. One of the most popular nights is Taco Tuesday because patrons can hear some good music, have some potent drinks and enjoy $1.00 tasty tacos. Most recently, the cast of R&B Divas filmed at this spacious location and featured performers have included Chrisette Michelle and Brian McKnight. Complete with a stage, large dance floor, booths, bottle service, and free admission on most nights, The Savoy is a nice addition to the neighborhood. It’s an unforgettable experience. www.thesavoyentertainmentcenter.com/

their doors to showcase work by local residents.

Many major cities enjoy an annual art walk of some sort and this is Inglewood’s version of celebrating art in The Wood and beyond. Each year, the event becomes more diverse in art form and ethnic representation and provides art enthusiasts an opportunity to view work off the beaten path. Free shuttles are provided and there will of course be wine! http://www.inglewoodopenstudios.com/ THE AFRO-LATIN FESTIVAL OF MUSIC AND DANCE: EDWARD VINCENT JR. PARK AMPHITHEATER, 700 WARREN LANE, INGLEWOOD, 90302 This free event promises to be a vibrant and culturally engaging event every summer. Sponsored by the Inglewood Cultural Arts organization, the festival features live performances by groups from East Los Angeles, Cuba, Puerto Rico, Mexico, and Brazil. World music including samba, disco and house is played by a DJ in-between sets to keep the crowd energized and excited for the next performance. It’s a great family-friendly event where curious souls can learn about and celebrate Afro-Latin music and dance.

Audience participation is encouraged so don’t be afraid to sing or dance along! http://www.inglewoodculturalarts.org/

KJLH RADIO STATION: 161 N. LA BREA AVE, INGLEWOOD, CA 90301 This “radio free” classic R&B station is situated in downtown Inglewood and is actively owned by Stevie Wonder who sometimes steps in as a guest DJ. Kindness, Joy, Love, and Happiness (KJLH) sponsors various cultural and community events in Inglewood and surrounding areas. Listen in to see what’s happening in the community and to also hear the popular Steve Harvey Morning Show. www.kjlhradio.com INGLEWOOD OPEN STUDIOS: The second weekend in November is when over 60 artist studios fling open March 2015

59

Michael Marzahn • Searching for Breakfast

Searching

60

March 2015

Michael Marzahn • Searching for Breakfast

for breakfast Written by Michael Marzhan

I’m a 42 year old traveller from the southwestern part of Germany. At the age of thirteen, I was diagnosed with a rare genetic disorder called Marfan Syndrome.

My first contact with “travelling” outside of Europe occurred when I was about 15. A teacher at my secondary school showed us photos of his trips all around the world. They were so impressive to us as young teenagers that most of us decided to follow his example at some point in our lives.

It took me another seven years to book my first overseas trip. Then at the age of 24, Marfan Syndrome hit our family like a bombshell. My father passed away after having two emergency heart surgeries and one year later, it was my turn.

I was told by my cardiologist that to prevent future complications, I would have to have the same surgery as my Dad had.

March 2015

61

Michael Marzahn • Searching for Breakfast

For me everything changed at this point. Until that time,

nearly everyone I was talking to had said to me: Ahh, travelling is something we can do when we get old or when we have retired. But after my surgery, I knew that I wanted to see as much of the world as I could and even now, I try to travel at least two times a year. The saying “Don’t dream your life, live your dreams” became a kind of motto to me. You could also say that if you want to do something you have to do it now, because you never know when your time on this planet is over.

The first time I travelled to India was in 2001. I will always remember this experience because we travelled to the state of Gujarat and returned home just two weeks before one of the biggest earthquakes ever recorded hit this region.

Then in 2003 I was invited to a friends wedding which happened to be in the state of Kerala in India. I took this as an occasion to quit my job and continued on travelling by myself for four months from Mumbai down the west coast to the most southern point called Kanyakumari, before heading up to Kolkata along the east coast. After India, I continued on to Cambodia for almost another two months of exploration. That trip really was a once in a lifetime experience.

62

March 2015

Michael Marzahn • Searching for Breakfast

March 2015

63

Michael Marzahn • Searching for Breakfast

64

March 2015

Michael Marzahn • Searching for Breakfast

I am often asked why I travel to India and what I like the most about

this country.

My answer is always the same. It’s the friendly people everywhere; the stunning natural experiences like the many diverse landscapes from the beaches of Goa or Kerala up to the more than 8,000 m high Himalayan mountains in the north; or seeing some of the last Asiatic lions, tigers and rhinos; or immersing myself in the different cultural and religious sites like the Taj Mahal or the Ghats in Varanasi.

For me there are only two things about India: you either hate it or you love it, there’s nothing in between. There are so many different things you have to handle in India. It’s noisy, dusty, smelly and most of the time very chaotic. It definitely touches and claims all your senses. But once you’ve learned to cope with it, it’s so fascinating because it’s the complete opposite to our regulated lives in Europe.

Another fact is the enormous size of the Indian subcontinent. It’s so huge that even I who have travelled to “Mother India” nine times now have seen so little of the country.

March 2015

65

Michael Marzahn • Searching for Breakfast

The next question I often hear from other people is what I’m

searching for when I’m travelling to India or when I am travelling in general.

I’m always curious and open-minded and so I’m searching for many things.

It doesn’t always have to be the main attractions of a country that I visit. I’m also searching for the small things that can be found in the accommodating gestures of local people, studying locals in their daily life, taking the local transportation, eating local food, enjoying sunrises or sunsets or just by having funny experiences when people are confronted by my height (2 meters) or when they ask curious questions about German history.

I was in Kerala, India, for the wedding I mentioned before and I had to take the last ferry back to the mainland in the middle of the night. There were only three other locals on the boat with me. They came up to me and one of them asked me where I was from. I told him, Germany. You could see him looking me up and down, thinking about something for a split second. And then he suddenly asks: What was Hitler’s height? I was completely surprised to hear a question like this out on a boat in the middle of nowhere in the middle of the night and so I just said: I don’t know exactly but I think he was not so tall and sometimes the smaller guys can be the more dangerous ones. That made us all laugh out loud.

And it’s exactly situations like this that symbolize for me what “breakfast” is – the small wonders we hope to find on each and every single one of our journeys. In the end, we are all searching for – breakfast!

66

March 2015

Michael Marzahn • Searching for Breakfast

March 2015

67

Taj Mahal, Agra, India Photography by Michael Marzhan Š 2015

COPYRIGHT Š 2015 www.thetravellist.eu facebook.com/thetravellist.eu contact@thetravellist.eu

Issue 2 // March 2015