The Travellist Issue 1

JOHAN BUTENSCHØN SKRE LAOS

EMMA MATSUDA

TOKYO

KYO WU AND ERIC XIAO TAIWAN

OCTOBER 2014 ISSUE ONE

NICOLAS TOUZE MADAGASCAR

Letter from the Editor

WHAT EXACTLY IS THE TRAVELLIST? I'm writing this sitting on the balcony of my hotel in Mitte, Berlin, watching the myriad of tourists navigating their way to the landmark sites of this eclectic city. The last time I was in Berlin was also my first, a good 7 years ago, during the heady days of my youth where heading out to the trendiest bar or club of every city seemed like a necessity and where choosing a hostel to bunk down for the week depended on what sort of people I thought I might meet there and less about how much it might cost me or where it was even located.

Thankfully, now that I have reached what I consider my own personal milestone of 30 years old, the urge to go out and experience everything all at once seems to have lost its freneticism. There is the realisation that sitting back and reflecting on all that we have experienced is just as important as going out and tasting new sensations.

As I move towards the launch of the inaugural issue of our travel magazine “The Travellist”, I find myself pondering: What exactly is the Travellist?

Is it a magazine?

A noun?

An occupation?

The answer to that would appear to be three-pronged. First, it is about freedom. The freedom to go where you want and do what you want and meet who you want. Second, it is a mentality. To explore the unknown, to share your ideas and to learn from others. And third, it is a realisation - that travelling is a privilege, one that is often taken for granted by those who are able to travel so freely yet a luxury for others who can only dream of going on such adventures.

Thus the Travellist is dedicated to the stalwart “travellist” - an adventurer who seeks to explore, experience and engage with the world. With the goal to bridge nations, peoples, cultures and ideas, the Travellist magazine is reaching for a global audience of young and new travellers. What do you hope to do in the future? Where do you hope to go? Every traveller has a story and every story deserves to be shared.

EDITORIAL ISSUE one Editor-in-Chief

RYNER ST JOHN ryner@thetravellist.eu

Head of Creative Design

MANUEL FRANCISCO VELASCO G. email@manuelvelasco.co

Illustrator

SANNE THIJS

sanne_thijs1987@hotmail.com

Logo

CHRESTELLA SANGGRA csanggra@yahoo.comm

PHOTOGRAPHERS JOHAN BUTENSCHØN SKRE EMMA MATSUDA NICOLAS TOUZE KYO WU ERIC XIAO CONTRIBUTING WRITERS KELLY DUDGEON SOJAN GEORGE PUBLICITY FEATURES KYRIC STUDIO LEA VIDAKOVIC ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS HUGO CORREIA RODRIGUES KAYSH LEE YEI JIH-KAI Special thanks to

SASHA PEREZ FERRERIA

Explore, experience and engage.

Welcome on board.

RynerSt John Editor-in-Chief The Travellist

COVER Copyright © 2014 www.thetravellist.eu contact@thetravellist.eu

Photography

JOHAN BUTENSCHØN SKRE

CONTENTS

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CONTRIBUTORS

RYNER ST JOHN

I was born in Taiwan, an island nation in South-East Asia, but grew up in the great land down under.

My hometown is Perth, Australia, which is one of the most laid back cities you will ever find. A graduate from the International Film School of Sydney, I have directed a number of short films, produced a music video which saw rotation on MTV Russia, and was a laureate for the 2012 Les Nuits Photographiques festival in Paris. My interests encompass themes that explore and question the human condition, focusing on the notions of identity and how we view ourselves in the world. Upon graduating from university, I spent the majority of my twenties experiencing life on the move – most notably one year spent in London, followed by two years in Sydney and then another year in Estonia.

The place I want to visit most in the world is the French town of Carcassonne. The other place I really want to visit is the Hill of Crosses in Siauliai, Lithuania. I like Spanish people, I think they have a very unique culture. I love Estonia!

Bachelor of Arts (French & History) Bachelor of Science (Microbiology) Adv. Diploma in Screen & Media (Screenwriting, Directing, Producing)

MANUEL FRANCISCO VELASCO G.

Manuel Francisco Velasco Garzón is a Colombian anthropologist and designer. In 2013 he received his Bachelor of Science in Anthropology and his Bachelor of Design in Visual Communication and Product Design from Universidad de los Andes (Bogotá, Colombia). During his studies he worked on issues related to market research among qualitative and quantitative perspective. He has also worked on ethnographic research projects in industry contexts to describe and explain the human behavior through their relationships with the products, services and the environment. To Manuel, the design is a powerful tool used to communicate, generate emotions and bring about positive social change. His design degree project took this statement and applied it in the development of a prototype (board game) that develops good values in young children from the Base of the Pyramid.

More recently he has worked on graphic design projects and data design. He is currently working at Observatory of Cultural and Archaeological Heritage as Head of Creative Design.

CHRESTELLA SANGGRA

Chrestella is a Sydney based graphic designer. She graduated from Curtin University, Western Australia, in 2012 where she received her Bachelor in Graphic Design. Her initial foray into the creative arts began in high school when she started exploring design and photo editing in photoshop. She was amazed at how design could change a boring image into something beautiful that could catch people’s attention. After spending four and a half years in Perth, she decided to move to Sydney for a fresh change. Upon completing an internship, she now works full time while completing freelancing jobs in her spare time as well. Besides graphic design, she is also passionate about fashion and one of her biggest dreams is to work in the fashion industry as a graphic designer for a fashion magazine. To Chrestella, style is simply another form of language as a way to discover a person's exact nature, as it can be inspired by everything in that person's surrounding. And of course, style is also there to make one look good!

SANNE THIJS

Sanne Thijs is a Belgium illustrator, artist and graphic designer who works under the pseudonym Zamel.

An empty paper reveals for her a world of imagination, colours, texture and shapes. Drawing is something she has always done – even when she was a little girl growing up she couldn’t stop herself from picking up a pencil and paper and making little sketches and drawings. Unsure of the path that she would ultimately take, it wasn't until she was 16 years old and went to the art school in Genk that she was sure that her future would be in the arts. Sanne received her degree in illustration at St Lucas in Ghent, Belgium. She now works as an illustrator with notable experience under her belt in children's illustrations.

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PHOTOGRAPHERS

JOHAN BUTENSCHØN SKRE

Johan is currently working in Oslo(Norway) and Swansea (UK)as a photographer and consultant. Not a travel photographer as such, but like many photographers he loves to travel. New people, visual variety, memorable smells and foreign languages are his greatest sources of inspiration. Every culture has a different angle on what it means to be human, something Johan’s personal work attempts to explore. www.facebook.com/slowphotographyno www.photoconsult.co.uk johan@slowphotography.no

EMMA MATSUDA

Emma Matsuda is a Melbourne based photographer and cinematographer. Emma began taking photographs at the age of 15 on her father’s cheap Olympus digital camera. Realising that it wasn’t the camera but rather her ability to see the world photographically and intuitively, she began to realise that it was possible to portray beauty in any way she wanted. Being able to manipulate reality and make it whatever it was in her mind became the sole reason for Emma’s ongoing fascination with photography. It started with nature, with people and – more often than not – with places. To make a place seem more magical than it was at heart became exciting and a form of escapism. After graduating from the prestigious Victorian College of the Arts in 2012, Emma joined film production company Black Forest Films, where she recently shot the feature film ‘Under A Kaleidoscope’. In early 2014, she started her own freelance photography and videography company because, more than anything else, she couldn't tolerate having a boring retail job. It is Emma’s dream to make music videos and films full time – but she is also in love with mixed media, film and video, writing, and creative expression of any kind. www.emmamatsuda.com (folio) www.emmamatsudaimaging.com (business) contact@emmamatsudaimaging.com

NICOLAS TOUZE Nicolas was born in France and grew up in Africa. After 13 years in Nigeria, 11 years in France and 6 years in Switzerland, Nicolas relocated to Australia in 2013 where he is working as a recruiter in Sydney.

Nicolas has a true passion for traveling and for cultural diversity and loves sharing it through photography when he is not working. He bought his first DSLR while travelling in Thailand in 2008 and has since been focusing on people and landscape photography. http://500px.com/Nico2z https://www.facebook.com/Nico2z.photography/info

KYO WU

Photographer from Taiwan. Kyo received his first SLR camera when he was in the fifth grade. Since then, he has been recording images of wild animals and utilizing photography as a means of storytelling the lives of animals. Kyo has embarked on numerous trips around Taiwan on photography expeditions focusing on insects to promote issues related to conservation. Now he is making plans to travel to Sumatra, Indonesia, to photograph wild tigers. In addition to wildlife photography, Kyo also specializes in wedding and fashion photography.

ERIC XIAO

Photographer from Taiwan. He likes to live in contact with all levels of life and to observe people and ideas to condense into every single photograph. Hobbies are travelling; he likes to walk with a camera into the corners between streets and alleys, waiting to discover and capture hidden moments that occur all around. Currently specializes in street photography, documentaries, graphic design and brand design.

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KYRIC STUDIO by Eric Xiao and Kyo Wu was established in the summer of 2013. After discovering their mutual interest in photography and sharing similar philosophies and beliefs, Eric and Kyo have been friends for 16 years now. During their period of military service in Taiwan, they spent a year setting up and preparing the necessary matters in order to establish Kyric Studio, which they successfully launched after completing their service. Kyric Studio utilises the philosophy of combining artistic value along with commercial value in fashion photography. Kyric Studio's business projects and services include: commercial photography, fashion photography and design-based branding. Kyric Studio also operates as a live house for gallery exhibitions and other performances, creating a space for such exhibitions called KYRIC SPACE. Web: http://www.kyricstudio.com Contact: kyricstudio@gmail.com

奇力克影像工作室是由Kyo wu and Eric Xiao兩個攝影師, 在2013年的 夏天所創立的, 兩位是認識16年的 好友, 因興趣皆為攝影, 並理念一致, 於當兵期間, 運用約一年時間不斷 籌備相關事宜, 在退伍之際成立了 KYRIC STUDIO攝影工作室。 經營理念致力於時尚攝影使其藝術 價值和商業價值融合一起。 營業項目主要以商業攝影,時尚攝影 ,品牌設計為主同時也經營live house, gallery等展演展覽空間創 有KYRIC SPACE 展演空間。

JOHAN BUTENSCHØN SKRE LAOS

THE SISTER ISLANDS DON DET AND DON KHON SI PHAN DON MEKONG DELTA LAOS When travels to South-East Asia are being planned, Laos is often overlooked. From the laid back hustle and bustle of the capital Vientiane to the peace and tranquility of rural life, Laos is a country of calming contrast.

Marking the border to Myanmar in the north and the noisy neighbour Thailand to the south is the Mekong river. At the most southern point of Laos, just before Cambodia, you will find the «4000 islands» or Si Phan Don. This archipelago has stayed off the radar for generations and still relies primarily on fishing and agriculture. Since the turn of the century, tourism has become the fastest growing industry in Laos, slowly reaching the lower Mekong as well. The sibling islands of Don Det and Don Khon are becoming a popular destination for those who want to relax and experience the pure, slow beauty of the Mekong and the people that live on it.

Don Det is a calm and relaxed place. Getting there usually means going on a crowded and uncomfortable minibus or tuk-tuk, followed by a short boat trip. As you stroll away from the beach where the boats land you can feel the pressure dissipate, like a background noise unnoticed until it has stopped. Gone is health and safety, there are no directions or restrictions. Gone is the need to see the sights.

Gone is the intrusive attention you often get as a tourist. Unlike commercialized tourist destinations, here you will find freedom to just explore at your own pace. This is new and unknown to a lot of travelers, certainly a welcome break if you have just crossed the border from Cambodia. The locals are genuinely friendly and do not see travelers as just a source of income.

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Mange av dem som planlegger en tur til Sørøst-Asia overser Laos. Fra det summende bylivet i hovedstaden Vientiane til det avslappende og fredfulle livet på landet, er Laos et land av rolige kontraster.

Elven Mekong markerer grensen til Thailand i Sør og Myanmar i nord.

Lengst sør i Laos, rett før grensen til Kambodsja finner man «4000 øyer», eller Si Phan Don. Denne øygruppen har forblitt mer eller mindre uoppdaget av utlendinger i flere generasjoner og har fortsatt fisking og jordbruk som viktigste inntektskilder. Siden årtusenskiftet har turisme blitt den raskest voksende næringen i Laos, og dette er i ferd med å spre seg nedover Mekong-elven. Søsterøyene Don Det og Don Khon er i ferd med å bli populære reisemål for dem som ønsker å slappe av og oppleve den sakteflytende, rene skjønnheten til Mekong og dens innbyggere.

Don Det er en liten, idyllisk og nonchalant øy. Reisen dit innebærer som regel lange turer på ukomfortable busser og /eller tuk-tuker, etterfulgt av en kort båttur. I det man går bort fra stranda der båtene lander kan man kjenne at trykket letter, som en bakgrunnslyd man ikke var klar over før den ble borte. Vekk er HMS og forhåndsregler, det finnes ingen anvisninger eller advarsler. Borte er presset til å se severdighetene. Borte er den påtrengende oppmerksomheten man vanligvis får som turist. I motsetning til kommersialiserte turistmål får man friheten til å utforske øya i ens eget tempo. Dette er en uvanlig følelse for de fleste reiselystne og definitivt en kjærkommen forandring hvis man nettopp har krysset grensen fra Kambodsja. De innfødte er hyggelige og ser ikke på tilreisende kun som inntektskilder.

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The people of rural Laos have a refreshing view on life. Instead of constantly chasing money and possessions, a lot of them just work when they need money. Working unnecessarily is «too much headache».

Even on the busier Don Khon island, shopkeepers and restaurant owners are pleasant and easy going. The most eager salesmen lean out of their stalls and «bother» you with a friendly «sabaidee!»

After experiencing this almost indescribable place and culture, a lot of backpackers decide to kick back for an extra week or two. Thank the stars for the cash machine on Don Khon!

The islands are almost free of grand historic sites, but unusual <<fossils>> spread out across the landscape give hints of an interesting past. In the late 19th century, Laos was enveloped in French Indochina which meant France needed to transport loot from and through Laos, a country with no coastline. The answer was to use the Mekong to float the cargo downstream much like the Laotians had done for centuries with timber and traded goods.

Around Don Khon, the Mekong gets a bit tricky with aggressive waterfalls and sharp rocks. The huge metal, stone and concrete remnants that are seen on the islands today are parts of the old railway and loading systems the French built to bypass these troublesome waters. They constructed loading docks, a relatively huge bridge and a railway that traversed the two islands. It is fascinating to see old industrial era constructions in a place that otherwise looks as it did hundreds of years ago. It almost gives off a post-apocalyptic vibe.

In recent years Don Det and Don Khon have received 24 hour electricity, TV and internet. According to the locals, this technological revolution is endangering their way of life as the younger generations are enchanted by TV shows and commercials. As of yet they do not really know greed - even their language lacks precise possessive pronouns - but through these new mediums the need to own and consume will be learned. The simple existence of just «being» that makes Laos so refreshing to visit might slowly be consumed.

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Befolkningen i utkant-Laos har et forfriskende syn på livet. Istedenfor å jage penger og eiendeler, jobber mange kun når de trenger det. Unødvendig arbeid er «too much headache». Selv på den travlere øya Don Khon er butikk- og restauranteiere behagelig avslappet. De ivrigste selgerne lener seg ut av boden sin og «plager» en med et vennlig «sabaidee!». Etter å ha opplevd dette unike stedet og kulturen, velger mange backpackere å nyte øyene en ekstra uke eller to. Takk og lov for minibanken på Don Khon.

Don Det og Khon har få historiske attraksjoner, men uvanlige «fossiler» i landskapet vitner om en interessant fortid. I slutten av det 19. århundret ble Laos innlemmet i Fransk Indokina, hvilket betød at Frankrike trengte å frakte ressurser og varer ut av, og gjennom Laos, et land uten kystlinje.

Svaret ble å fløyte lasten ned Mekong-elva, som laosianerne har gjort med tømmer i århundrer. Rundt Don Khon blir elven litt kinkig, med aggressive fossefall og skarpe klipper.

De store metall-, betongog steinkonstruksjonene vi ser rester av på øyene i dag er deler av en velutviklet transportåre franskmennene bygde for å omgå de hissige vassdragene. Det ble laget lasteramper, en relativt enorm bro og en jernbanelinje som krysser begge øyene. Det er fascinerende å se gamle industrielle konstruksjoner på et sted som ellers ser ut som det gjorde hundrevis av år siden. Det avgir nærmest postapokalyptiske vibber.

I de senere årene har Don Det og Don Khon fått elektrisitet døgnet rundt, TV og internett. Ifølge noen av innbyggerne truer denne teknologiske revolusjonen deres levemåte ettersom yngre generasjoner fortrylles av TV-programmer og reklame. Foreløpig kjenner de ikke grådighet, språket deres har ikke engang konkrete possessiver, men med disse nye mediene vil de lære trangen til å eie og forbruke. Den enkle tilværelsen der man bare «er» som gjør Laos til slikt et spesielt reisemål kan sakte men sikkert bli konsumert.

JOHAN BUTENSCHØN SKRE

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It is fascinating to see old industrial era constructions in a place that otherwise looks as it did hundreds of years ago.

Det er fascinerende å se gamle industrielle konstruksjoner på et sted som ellers ser ut som det gjorde hundrevis av år siden.

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The people of rural Laos have a refreshing view on life. Instead of constantly chasing money and possessions, a lot of them just work when they need money. Working unnecessarily is «too much headache».

Befolkningen i utkant-Laos har et forfriskende syn på livet. Istedenfor å jage penger og eiendeler, jobber mange kun når de trenger det. Unødvendig arbeid er «too much headache».

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As you stroll away from the beach where the boats land you can feel the pressure dissipate, like a background noise unnoticed until it has stopped.

I det man går bort fra stranda der båtene lander kan man kjenne at trykket letter, som en bakgrunnslyd man ikke var klar over før den ble borte.

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SOJAN GEORGE

Iran, whom everyone loves to hate It was around midnight. I was in a deep sleep due to the previous day's mountaineering. Unable to open my eyes, I heard the sounds of footsteps outside, so I forced myself awake. We had reached the Armenian border from Iran and our bus was waiting to make the crossing. I had two pieces of luggage, one that I kept inside the bus with all my clothes and necessary items for my trip while my smaller handbag had my passport, small book of maps, my laptop and my camera.

An Iranian immigration officer issued us our exit stamp and thus we started making our way over to the Armenian border. I could see the small tent with the Armenian flag fluttering in the moonlight. Taking my camera out, I decided to take some photographs. Since the visibility of the flag was poor due to the darkness I decided to use the flash to try and capture a few images. Thus, I was concentrating on my shoot when all of a sudden, a few Armenian soldiers approached me and demanded that I follow them.

Now I knew I was buttonholed as I realized the mistake I had made.

When I reached the tent I could dimly make out the sign that said â&#x20AC;&#x201C; â&#x20AC;&#x153;Photography Prohibitedâ&#x20AC;?. None of the Armenians in the tent spoke English so I was forced to wait for the arrival of an officer who could speak English.

After an hour, my bus left, leaving me deserted at the border. Finally, the officer arrived and examined my camera. I showed him the pictures in my camera and deleted the photos which I had taken from there. He was not satisfied and did not want me to proceed into Armenia. I tried all options to be allowed into Armenia, but he was not impressed.

Just one mistake ruined my travel plans. I was forced to return the way I had come and sat there at the Iranian border. It was around 2 am. Time moved at a snail's pace in the absence of any activity around me but as there were no buses, no cabs, I was forced to endure my endless wait until early morning. Finally, when day finally broke, I decided to head to the nearby town of Jolfa. Despite its national affiliation, Jolfa seemed like an Armenian village, green and filled with friendly people. The Jolfa Free Zone houses some Chinese companies, proclaiming the arrival of globalization to this tiny village which despite its small size, retains an important role as a border town facilitating the transport of goods between Iran and the states of the former Soviet Union.

After spending an hour in Jolfa, I travelled on to Tabriz. I found a hotel room in Tabriz, costing $30 per day which included a complementary breakfast. I did not know anything about Tabriz as it had never been part of my itinerary. To be safe in a strange place, I decided to book myself into the hotel for two days before I left for Tehran.

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IRAN

FEATURED WRITER

I called an Iranian friend who I knew from a social network site to ask her for information about Tabriz. Farah did not know much about Tabriz either as it was located far at the tip of northern Iran. After half an hour later, she called back and said a few friends of hers would pick me up to show me around Tabriz. Her friends, two beautiful girls called Mona and Laden, came to my hotel in a Peugeot 307 car. Both of them were artists and Mona was also able to speak a moderate level of English. They introduced me to all the interesting places in Tabriz and after lunch, Laden promised to introduce more friends of theirs to me.

Later in the evening I met them all at the hotel. Ali and Yahaya were both studying management. Seema, Mariyum and Sogan were students at Tabriz University. Sogan was teaching English in Tehran and planned to do her PhD in the US. Seema was learning French and hoped to migrate to Canada. All had great dreams but each of them felt that they were stuck in Iran because of their government's ineptitude and mismanagement. In Iran, 70% of the young people are alcoholic drinkers. You can see Levi's jeans and Adidas T-shirts behind the burqas that young women wore. Ali and Yahaya showed me the Khomeini's house; it is a public toilet. Ali is looking like an Italian and has dreams of living there.

Eventually, the time to say sayonara was upon us. Ali and Yahaya hugged me and hoped to see me again. I took a taxi and travelled to meet Farah, forty kilometers outside of Tehran. She speaks good English and works as a teacher in a government school. She watches a lot of Indian films which are dubbed in Persian and receives western channels via satellite. It is banned in Iran but as Farah said to me, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Everyone is using a satellite dish.â&#x20AC;? She took me to the local mosque which had recently closed because not enough people were showing up for prayers. We talked a lot about the culture and the politics of Iran.

According to the BBC and CNN, Iran and Iranians are the most dangerous things in the world but I never found anything like that during the time that I spent in Iran. Iranians are very much moderate and humble. Most of the people are Shia Muslims and they believe that Muhammad al-Mahdi, the 12 th Imam, will return as a messiah with Isa (Jesus Christ) to bring peace to the world and establish Islam as the ruling faith across the globe.

Before I left, Farah's family invited me to dinner with fish and rice prepared Iranian style. She then arranged a taxi to Tehran for my departure. The light music of Shahyar Ghanbari was flowing from the stereo: Blue of the sea is forbidden The desire to see, is forbidden The love between two fish is forbidden Alone and together is forbidden To write about you, is forbidden Even to complain is forbidden You are forbidden, I am forbidden!

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Lea Vidakovic Lea Vidakovic (Croatia/Serbia) is a multimedia artist who works in the field of art installation and puppet animation. Her work and research is focused on fragmented narratives in animated installations and films.

2003-2007 - Studied Graphic Art at the Academy of Fine Arts, Zagreb, Croatia, and graduated in 2011.

2007-2010 - BA in Animation, Hogskulen i Volda, Norway.

2012 - MA of Audiovisual Arts (Animation) at the Royal Academy of Arts (KASK), Gent, Belgium.

2014 - Began her PhD in animation at Nanyang Technological University in Singapore.

She has exhibited internationally in solo and group exhibitions as well as in animation festivals, and is a winner of several art and film awards. A member of the Association of Croatian Artists (HDLU) and the Association of Artists from Vojvodina (SULUV). www.leavidakovic.com lea@leavidakovic.com

ERIC XIAO KYO WU KYRIC STUDIO TAIWAN

TAIWAN Located on the intersection of subtropical and tropical area and three Eurasian plates, Taiwan has diverse landscapes, climates and astonishing biodiversity. As a result of the abundant natural resources, history and culture, along with the rapid and convenient public transportation system (railways and highways around the island), Taiwan is the perfect destination for travels around the country. 地處亞熱帶及熱帶交界處,加上位於三個板塊 交界處,地形起伏大, 多變得地形和氣候造就了台灣 多樣化的生物像, 台灣因為擁有非常豐富的自然以及 歷史文化,加上交通便利, 有環島鐵路及公路, 非常適 合各種形態的環島旅行. 台灣

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TAIPEI 101 - Taiwan’s most famous building located in the capital city of Taipei, the Taipei 101 stands 509 meters tall and reaches 101 floors high. From 2004 to 2010, it was the world’s tallest building. 台北101 矗立在台灣首都的最著名 建築, 高509米高達101層, 從2004到 2010是世界最高的建築。

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TAIWAN

JIOUFEN / JIUFEN OLD STREET - Ancient mountain lanes, pedestrians cross the ancient streets of Jiufen in the rain to sit by a traditional inn, while drinking tea they taste the flavor of Jiufen Old Street. 九份老街 古 老 的 山 城 巷 弄 , 行 人 穿 越在九份老街的細雨裡, 坐在旁邊的 客棧, 一邊喝茶一邊品味這份歷史的 風味九份老街.

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WU JIE TRIBE / NANTOU - The beautiful Wu Jie tribe is located in the isolated mountainous area of Nantou. When you walk on the ancient aboriginal hunting tracks, it is as if you could see the heroic war against imperial Japan. 武界部落

南投山區與世隔絕的美麗 部落, 穿梭於原住民古老的獵道中, 彷彿看見當年對日抗戰的壯烈.

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KYO WU

SNOW MOUNTAIN - The black forests

on mountains are covered by layers of snow in winter, making it difficult to walk. If you are careless you may slip and fall into the valley like a scene from a fairytale, giving the snowy mountain a sense of mystery.

九份老街

古老的山城巷弄, 行人穿 越在九份老街的細雨裡, 坐在旁邊的 客棧, 一邊喝茶一邊品味這份歷史的 風味九份老街.

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MIKADO PHEASANT - A world-class place for bird watching, observe the path carefully, then, you can see there are so many wonderful birds. 帝雉, the Mikado pheasant, is a kind of shy bird and they love to hunt around the paths in the early mornings and evenings. 帝 雉 為世界級的賞鳥景 點 , 用 心 觀 察 便 可 於林道旁方發現許多美 麗 的 鳥 兒 , 生 性 害羞的帝雉, 喜歡於清 晨 及 黃 昏 時 分 於 林道外圍覓食.

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NAN-AO TOWNSHIP, YILAN - Known

as Taiwan's most beautiful japalura, they possess good protective coloring, which enables them to move in the forest and avoid detection. The road is complicated around there, we found ourselves lost three times before we finally found him.

宜蘭南澳 號稱台灣最美麗的攀蜥, 呂 氏攀蜥, 良好的保護色使其能夠在森林 中行動而難以被發現, 附近的林道複雜, 我們可是迷路了三次才好不容易找到牠.

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CHAIYI - As the time draws near for the

Dragon Boat Festival, cicadas sing loudly in the mountains, but often only heard and not seen, as their numbers dwindle they become rarer. At the time, in order to take this photo I climbed 20 metres high without regard for safety.

草山村 靠 近 端 午 節 的 時 候 , 爺 蟬 的 歌聲響亮於山中, 但是常常只聞其 聲不見其影, 數量稀少難得一見. 當 初為了這張照片我可是不顧危險的 爬上十幾公尺高的大樹上拍攝.

BEINAN, TAITUNG - Perched in the eastern part of the mountain is the orange-belly tree frog, at the onset of evening they suddenly break into song.

These tree frogs are already very rare and in the dark forest they are even more difficult to find. 台東卑南鄉 棲 息 於 東 部 深 山 中 的 橙 腹樹蛙, 總在黑夜將臨時高歌一曲, 想在黑漆漆的森林中找尋這數量稀 少的樹蛙可是非常不容易的.

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TAITUNG - Summer began with a thunderstorm in the afternoon, we are already in the forests of Taitung having spent all day preparing, waiting for the arrival of evening so we can begin shooting the mysterious nocturnal animals. 台東 夏 季 的 午 後 下 起 了 大 雷 雨 , 我 們已經在台東的林道準備了一整天, 等待著黑夜的來臨, 拍攝那神祕的 夜行性動物.

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CIVIC SQUARE, TAICHUNG - Running on the grass and watching people having fun together, enjoying the moments of holiday time. 台中市民廣場 奔 跑 一 大 片 草 地 人 群 嬉鬧著, 享受著假日的時光.

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THEAN HOU TEMPLE, LUGANG - Cultural beliefs about the worship of deities, we piously state our own wishes, God bless this earth. 鹿港天后宮

文化信仰人們對於神明 的敬仰, 虔誠地說出自己的心願, 天 佑大地.

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POT ROAST DINNER, TRADITIONAL CUISINE IN TAIWAN - Roadside vendors

are part of Taiwan’s unique culture.

Workers at the end of a hard day’s labor chat with the proprietors as they look forward to a hearty dinner.

台灣礦肉飯

路邊的小攤販, 是台灣 特有的文化. 結束一天工作的工人, 和老闆娘聊天著, 正滿懷期待的買入 豐盛的晚餐.

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TAIPEI - In a busy MRT station in Taipei,

people shuttling one by one are the face of the city.

台北 人 潮 往 來 的 捷 運 站 裡 , 是 都 市 的面貌之一人們不斷的在空間穿酸 移動.

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YULIN - One of the earliest industries in Taiwan was family barbers who turned the living room of their family home into a simple hair salon. 雲林 家 庭 理 髮 b a r b e r s h o p - 早 期 台灣有著的一種行業自己家的客廳 就是簡頭髮的髮廊.

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BAGUASHAN BUDDHA SCULPTURE, CHANGHUA - Located on a small hill looming like a guardian deity over the whole of Changhua is the Baguashan Buddha Sculpture.

八卦山大佛 彰化 位 於 彰 化 市 的 小 山 上, 像是守護著整個彰化的神明.

GAOMEI WETLANDS, TAICHUNG - A

wetland with wind turbines, every sunset is always so beautiful like a blaze of glory.

台中高美濕地 一 個 有 著 整 颱 風 車 的 溼地, 每到夕陽時總是如此的美麗.

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HOUTONG CAT VILLAGE - In the northeast corner of Taiwan resides a town full of cats, each cat stares at the next.

This is Houtong Cat Village, Taiwan’s cat mecca and home to many stray cats. 侯硐貓村 台 灣 東 北 角 一 個 充 滿 著 貓 的小鄉鎮, 一隻貓在看一隻貓. 這是 侯硐貓村, 被稱為台灣的貓聖地.

YULIN - For the people who rely on this land to make their living, one farmer is trying to spray pesticide on his own corn field.

雲林農村 靠 著 這 片 土 地 生 活 的 人 , 一 位正努力位玉米田灑農藥的農人.

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MATSU PILGRIMAGE PROCESSION, DAJIA - A unique culture in Taiwan, this

once-a-year event follows a lively procession bearing the statues of deities as they journey through the countryside, praying that peace and happiness reigns under the heavens.

大甲媽祖遶境 台灣特有一個文化, 一 年一次的神明下鄉隊伍經過每個街角 巷弄, 無不熱鬧, 代表祇求人們安樂.

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KELLY DUDGEON

Perth to Port Hedland with a Few Stops in Between!

Introduction by Ryner St John Written by Kelly Introduction

by Dudgeon Ryner St John Written by Kelly Dudgeon While most first time visitors to Australia immediately head to themost big smoke and hustle that is Sydney, or the While first time visitors to bustle Australia immediately head hub of big culture andand coffee that makes upis Melbourne, it is to the smoke hustle bustle that Sydney, or the on side of coffee this vastthat country-continent where one hubthe of other culture and makes up Melbourne, it is encounters part of country-continent Australia that is justwhere as warm, on the otheranother side of this vast one friendly andanother downright Australia is encounters part charming. of AustraliaWestern that is just as warm, Australia's largest state, making up one-third Australia's friendly and downright charming.

WesternofAustralia is total landmass, also one ofup the largest of states in the Australia's largestand state, making one-third Australia's world roughly equal in size Western Europe. total landmass, and also onetoofthat the of largest states in the Perth is the capital city of Western Australia, considered world roughly equal in size to that of Western Europe. (depending on whocity you as either the most or the Perth is the capital of ask) Western Australia, considered second mostonisolated capital in the (depending who you ask) ascity either the world, most orafter the Auckland.

Home to some of the beaches the second most isolated capital citybest in the world,inafter world, PerthHome is known for its laid back lifestyle, its fantastic Auckland. to some of the best beaches in the weather seemingly allfor year andlifestyle, for having some of world, Perth is known its round laid back its fantastic the friendliest people the round world. and for having some of weather seemingly allinyear the friendliest people in the world.

But Western Australia is not just about Perth. It is also where an adventurer eager to experience some real Australian ruggedness will find the largest But Western Australia is not just about Perth. It is also where an adventurer expanse of Australian outback, while dotting the coast the length of the eager to experience some real Australian ruggedness will find the largest state are various towns that play important roles in the fishing as well as the expanse of Australian outback, while dotting the coast the length of the mineral and petroleum industries. Due to the long distances covered, a state are various towns that play important roles in the fishing as well as the road trip is a fantastic way to explore the vast expanse that makes up this mineral and petroleum industries. Due to the long distances covered, a great state. road trip is a fantastic way to explore the vast expanse that makes up this great state.

Kelly Dudgeon did just that and gives us a short run down of her trip from Perth, at the south end of Western Australia, to Port Hedland in the northern Kelly Dudgeon did just that and gives us a short run down of her trip from part of Western Australia. Day One - We drove all day, stopping in Perth, at the south end of Western Australia, to Port Hedland in the northern Geraldton for an over-priced dinner and to sleep at a Caravan park. Still a part of Western Australia. little shady from Friday night, we didn’t bother to pitch our tent and just slept in the back of the truck.

Day One - We started with good intentions, planning to leave Perth at 5am on a Saturday morning. In true Australian style, a few beverages the night Day One - We started with good intentions, planning to leave Perth at 5am before got in the way of the master plan. I supervised as Ben loaded the on a Saturday morning. In true Australian style, a few beverages the night car with vital supplies including a tent, swag and four litres of fine cask before got in the way of the master plan. I supervised as Ben loaded the wine. We departed Perth at 1pm later that day. car with vital supplies including a tent, swag and four litres of fine cask wine. We departed Perth at 1pm later that day.

We drove all day, stopping in Geraldton for an over-priced dinner and to sleep at a caravan park. Geraldton, a coastal town, maintains an We drove all day, stopping in Geraldton for an over-priced dinner and to important seaport and is also an important center for tourism as well as sleep at a caravan park. Geraldton, a coastal town, maintains an industries such as mining, fishing, wheat and wool. Our stay in Geradlton important seaport and is also an important center for tourism as well as was only brief - still a little shady from Friday night, we didn’t bother to pitch industries such as mining, fishing, wheat and wool. Our stay in Geradlton our tent and just slept in the back of the truck. was only brief - still a little shady from Friday night, we didn’t bother to pitch our tent and just slept in the back of the truck.

Day Two - Refreshed from a good night’s sleep, we took off for Shark Bay, a World Heritag site famous for its seagrass meadows which are the largest Day Two - Refreshed from a good night’s sleep, we took off for Shark Bay, in the world and an important habitat for endangered dugongs. We a World Heritag site famous for its seagrass meadows which are the largest stopped off at Hamelin Pool to check out the stromatolites – one of only in the world and an important habitat for endangered dugongs. We stopped off at Hamelin Pool to check out the stromatolites – one of only

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two places in the whole world where living marine stromatolites can be found – and then travelled on to Monkey Mia, one of the most popular tourist destinations at Shark Bay. Emus greeted us as we pitched our tent by helping themselves to our picnic basket. Reprieve came in the form of unsuspecting German tourists who sat down on the park bench next to us to enjoy some lunch.

Monkey Mia, famed for its wild dolphins that have acclimatised over time to human interaction, has a decidedly ‘80s feel to it especially if you’re camping. It’s great, but don’t expect spiritual transcendence from the promised dolphin encounter (unless your idea of spiritual experience is over a hundred tourists – sock-n-sandalled, camera-lensed-up – lining the beach.) We went down for a swim at around 5pm and were lucky enough to be greeted by a few passing dolphins – but really, it’s not worth hanging around for the official viewing.

Day Three - Heading up the coast a little further north we made it to Coral Bay, a small town located next to Ningaloo Reef, another World Heritage-listed site in WA famous for its amazing marine biodiversity and one of the few places in the world where one can swim with whale sharks.

This is also the only fringing reef in Australia – walking off the beach will take you directly onto the reef as there is little separation between the reef and the shore.

I decided to head out for a paddle, keeping a look out to see if I could find any of the gorgeous blue-spotted stingrays that frequent the area. As I swam out, I felt like I was being followed (not the best feeling when you're in Australian waters as Australia is rather infamous for its somewhat prolific shark population) but then looked back to breath a huge sigh of relief as I realised I wasn't being stalked by sharks but rather, by a giant school of snappers!

Day Four - As Ningaloo is a protected reef, it's necessary to check where fishing is allowed and where it is prohibited so we decided to ask some of the locals. Given that it was the height of summer, we found ourselves completely alone on an entire stretch of pristine, sandy beach. We (that is, Ben) caught a few fish and as the sun began to set, we looked on with goosebumps at the four large fins skimming the top of the water near the shore...

But in all honesty, Coral Bay is truly a paradise. There is absolutely nothing else in this place in terms of amenities but that's simply because there is absolutely no need for anything else. I recommend checking it out in the cooler months, especially if you’re planning on camping!

Day Five - On our last day we legged it to Port Hedland. The drive between Coral Bay and Port Hedland was captivating in that the scenery changed every few hours. It felt like we had driven through at least three different countries. Flat and arid changed to hilly and arid and as we continued to travel even further north, the landscape changed to being hilly with luscious greenery. This part of the trip was all about the journey!

We finally reached Port Hedland, the final destination of our trip. Port Hedland is the second largest town in the Pilbarra region in this northern part of Western Australia. It is known for its rich Aboriginal culture and history with the region being home to 31 Aboriginal language groups. It is also home to some of the oldest rock formations in the world dating to over 2 billion years ago.

Our five day trip, though short, made us realise that Western Australia really has a lot to offer. It is a place of amazing scenery and diversity, from the white sandy beaches to the dry hot interior, and offers a chance for respite from our daily grind which one will have no problem finding in abundance in its vast landscape. Western Australia, I have fallen in love all over again.

No wonder that many tourists leave our state with the sense that it really is a paradise on earth!

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MADAGASCAR

MADAGASCAR Madagascar, located off the coast of south-east Africa, is the world's fourth largest island. Like many other people, I first thought of Madagascar as the place on earth where one would find a large diversity of climates and very specific fauna and flora. My first trip there only lasted ten days but I was keen on discovering different facets of this country and learning about the people, the architecture and local traditions.

Madagascar est la quatrième ile du monde de par sa taille. Comme beaucoup, je m'imaginais un pays offrant une multitude de paysages, climats, faune et flore qui luis ont spécifiques. Pour mon premier voyage qui ne durait que 10 jours je souhaitais donc voir une autre facette de ce pays et découvrir les malgaches eux-mêmes et leurs façons de vivre.

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Madagascar is a place with a lot of contrasting moods due to a colonial history heavily mixed with traditional influences, from the little streets of the capital Antananarivo crowded with French cars from the 1970s to the multitude of markets selling everything from souvenirs to clothes to food items.

What really surprised me was to see how young the population was and how children had to work hard from a very young age in order to help their families.

In spite of the hard working conditions, Malagasy children will always smile at you despite the surrounding poverty where people survive on less than two dollars a day. This is really impressive when one compares that to developed nations where people will go on strike just for an extra week of holiday or to be able to retire earlier.

I also had the opportunity to drive to Mahavelona, commonly known as Foulpointe, on the east coast and travelled through beautiful national parks where one can see species like lemurs, crocodiles or walk on beautiful white sand beaches. I understood why this island is one of the favourite destinations for tourists keen on crystal waters with affordable lodges and beautiful landscape. However, when you drive 10 minutes away from the beach and get into the first town, you realise that life there is really different: children working, families begging for money or butchers selling meat bathed in its own blood on disgusting newspapers swarming with flies.

It is hard to summarise Madagascar in 10 days and for sure there is much more to see from north to south, but at least this trip would have once again opened my eyes: The most beautiful places often hide the biggest misery and the majority of us ignore the plight of thousands of families because we are either afraid or selfish or because it is so much easier to focus on what the holiday postcard shows.

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Madagascar est une ile offrant une multitude de contrastes, des petites ruelles où foisonnent les 4L customisées en taxi héritées du passé colonial , on passe aux marchés locaux proposant toute sorte de choses, des souvenirs à la nourriture. Ce qui m'a réellement surpris est sans doute le jeune âge de la population et de voir à quel point celle-ci travaille dur afin d'aider sa famille. Mais malgré les conditions de travail, la pauvreté ou les deux dollars de gain quotidiens, on reçoit toujours un sourire en retour. Quand je pense que chez nous on fait greve pour des conges en plus ou pour partir à la retraite plus tot..

Après ce passage en ville, je souhaitais voir un peu plus du coté rural. Je suis parti vers l'Est en direction de Foulpointe. En traversant les parcs nationaux où l'on croise lémuriens, crocodiles puis en découvrant les plages magnifiques de sable blanc, on comprend vite pourquoi cette ile est l'une des destinations privilégiées des touristes en recherches d'un petit coin de paradis. Mais à dix minutes de ce cadre idyllique, la première ville vous fait vite comprendre à quel point la réalité est différente: les enfants qui travaillent, des familles vous suppliant pour une pièce ou des vendeurs de viande proposant du zebu baignant dans son sang, entouré de mouches et reposant sur un papier journal dégueulasse.

Je ne peux sans doute pas réduire Madagascar à mon experience de dix jours, il y a tellement d'autres choses à voir, au nord comme au sud, mais ce voyage m'a encore une fois fait réaliser que les plus belles destinations cachent parfois les plus grandes misères et que la majorité d'entre nous ferment les yeux par gêne, égoïsme, ou parce qu'il est tellement plus simple de ne voir que la carte postale.

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Two boys waiting for their friends.

Deux gamins attendant leurs amis.

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A cart resides in front of Mantasoa's market.

Une charrette aux abords du marchĂŠ de Mantasoa.

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Children playing in Mantasoa. No video games, just a wooden little car.

Des enfants jouant Ă Mantasoa. Pas de jeux videos, juste une voiture en bois.

6800 Malagasy ariaries for 1 kilo, equivalent to 2.5 USD. 6800 arias le kilo, soit 2.5 dollars.

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A family on the side of a road. This family was really in the middle of nowhere and I was wondering what they were waiting for and staring at.

Une famille sur le bord de la route. Cette famille ĂŠtait vraiment au milieu de nulle part, et je me demandais ce qui pouvait captiver leur regard.

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The incomplete remains of a bridge on the road to Tamatave.

Un pont ou plut么t ce qu' il en reste sur la route de Tamatave.

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Woman selling vegetables on the streets of Antananarivo: tomatoes, sweet potatoes and carrots among others.

Une femme vendant des legumes dans les rues de Tana. Entre autres, tomates, carottes et patates douces.

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Food market, butcher using an old scale to weigh the meat.

Sur le marchĂŠ, un boucher utilisant une vieille balance pour peser la viande.

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Woman selling grain on the streets of Antananarivo.

Une femme vendant du grain dans les rues de Tana.

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Maskits, or Zebu meat skewers, are a popular Malagasy food that can be bought on the streets.

Des maskits ou brochettes de viande de zebu, un des plats populaires de Madagascar que l'on achète au bord des routes.

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A group of working teenagers pause for a break.

Un groupe d'adolescents faisant une pause.

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A bustling market near Tamatave.

Un marchĂŠ aux alentours de Tamatave.

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Foulepointe in the morning, one of the preferred destinations on the coast for tourists.

Foulepointe un matin, l'une des destinations préférées des touristes.

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Lemurs in Andasibe National Park.

LĂŠmuriens dans un parc national, Andasibe.

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Sunset in Foulepointe.

Coucher de soleil Ă Foulepointe.

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A child searches for his missing shoe.

Avez-vous vu ma chaussure?

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EMMA MATSUDA TOKYO

TOKYO When I first set foot in Tokyo I was only 14 years old.

Ten years later, I returned to Tokyo at the age of 24 and I was afraid my romanticist memories of the city would have disappeared. The neon lights, the white glowing vending machines and pictures of cats plastered onto soft drink bottles. Fast trains that buzz by without a care in the world. Seemingly ordinary streets filled with an air of magic.

I am so glad to say that it was just as I remembered.

Stepping foot into Narita station after getting off the airplane felt like pure joy. Immensely clean floors, carefully placed pot plants, crisp white walls and an atmosphere of peace and order. The very things that make Japan calming and peaceful to any foreigner who steps inside are the things Japanese people work so hard to maintain. This attitude of the Japanese people is really what makes it such a luxury for us to visit.

One of the most memorable things about Tokyo is the atmosphere itself, which is almost impossible to describe. Even when you are in amongst the commotion, there is something so therapeutic about being there. Could it be that everything is so different, that it feels like you are in a dream world?

You get on a train from your nearest suburb to go to Shibuya. The train is packed so tightly you feel like a sardine in a crushed tin box. Yet still everyone manages to be on their mobile phone, or sleeping whilst standing. When you finally get off the train, you feel as if you’d been previously living in a world of monochrome and desaturated colours.

Because everything, and I mean everything, jumps out at you in a welcoming array of colour and commotion.

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私が始めて一人で東京に来たのは、14歳の時だった。 10年後、24歳になってまた来ることになったのだが、ロマン チックな思い出が 消えうせてしまっているのでは...と、少し怖かった。 ネオンサイン、白く輝く自動販売機、ペットボトルのネコのイ ラスト、我が物顔で疾走する急行電車、ありきたりの町並みに ひそむ魔力、空気のにおい、午前2時まで開いている本屋...。 嬉しいことに、東京は今だにその記憶のままの都市だった。 飛行機を降りて成田駅に足を踏み入れると、わくわくしてくる。 隅々まで掃除の行き届いたフロア、バランスよく配置された観葉植物、ピカ ピカの壁、そして平和で秩序ある雰囲気。 日本人が努力してそれらを維持しているからこそ、日本に足を踏み入れる外 国人 はだれもが穏やかで平和な国だと感じるのだ。 そして日本人のこの姿勢こそが、外国人にはるばる訪れる価値のある国だと 思わせるものなのだ。 東京について一番思い出に残っているのはその雰囲気だが、 うまく表現する のは ほぼ不可能だ。 その場で興奮のただ中にいても、何かしら癒しのようなものすら感じる。 それは全てがあまりにも(西洋とは)違うので、まるで夢の世界にいるような 気がしてしまうせいだろうか。 新宿行きの電車に乗る。 あまりにも混み合っているので、まるで缶詰めのサーディンになった気がす る。 それでも人々はなんとか携帯をいじったり、立ったまま眠ったりもしている。 電車を降りたとたん、まるでそれまではモノクロームの世界に居たような気 がしてくる。 というのも、それほど全てのものが鮮やかな色彩と興奮を伴って、いちどき に目に飛び込んでくるからだ。

You’ve never seen craziness til you’ve seen a street crossing in Tokyo… 東京の交差点は、すごいのひと言。

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TOKYO

There are people crossing the street underneath clear plastic transparent umbrellas, while business men scurry along without a second glance at you ((though not in the brash way that business men in western countries do).

Multi-coloured taxis rush past you in a beautiful dance - one yellow, one green, one black – it’s almost as if every mundane thing becomes a joy. Vending machines, jewellery stores, photo booths, udon shops where you can buy a meal for less than 5 dollars, and seven story high shops dedicated entirely to stationery.

Stumbling out of Tokyu Hands with a bag full of pens and patterned masking tape, you decide to try your hand at daytime karaoke. The walls are covered with album covers and snapshots of old patrons. A waiter brings you your drinks.

Next stop: a cat café. Sitting on the floor, you enjoy a Japanese iced coffee while cute, fat cats come and curl up to you.

The rest of the afternoon is wisely spent in Tower Records, where you find weird and obscure CDs for only 1,000 yen each. You take a bunch of their slogan stickers, “No music, no life”.

On your way to the Golden Gai district in Shinjuku, you pop into a Pachinko arcade, enjoy a meal at an all-you-can-eat Shabu Shabu joint, and drink three ginger highballs (a delicious drink consisting of whiskey and ginger ale). In the Golden Gai district, you stumble through tiny alleyways, looking upward at the overhanging jungle of telephone wires and dim lights. You feel as if you are in some sort of ancient mini-town that’s been preserved just for you. The streets are eerily isolated, as people are too busy drinking in bars the size of small rooms.

Before ending the night, you buy some piping hot Onigiri from the local Family Mart; it makes you feel warm as you pass a flickering bookstore that’s only just shutting its doors. Arriving back at the hostel, you realize you are physically tired, but still can’t shut your eyes.

Tokyo is much too beautiful.

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ビニール傘をさして道を渡る人々、わき目もふ らず小走りに急ぐサラリーマン (西洋のビジネスマンの厚かましい態度とはま た違う), 美しく流れるように走りすぎて行く色 とりどりのタクシー、そんなありふれた光景すら 喜びとなる。 自動販売機、ジュエリーショップ、プリクラブー ス、ワンコインで食べられるうどん屋、文房具専 門の7階建ての店...。 大量の文房具の包みを抱えて店からでたあと、 カラオケに行くことにする。 店の壁はレコードジャケットや、顧客の写真で 埋め尽くされている。 次はネコカフェに入る。床に座ってアイスコー ヒーを味わっていると、まるまる 太った可愛い ネコがすり寄ってくる。 そのあとはタワーレコード店で有意義にすご す。 オタクっぽいレコードが、なんと一枚1000円で 買えるのだ。 「音楽なくしてなんの人生か」という、この店の モットーをプリントしたシールをもらってく。 新宿のゴールデン街への途すがら、パチンコ 屋をひやかし、 しゃぶしゃぶの店に 寄り道して ジンジャー ハイボールを3杯 ひっかける。 ゴールデン街で細い路地をさまよいながらふ と頭上を見上げると、 ぐるぐる渦を 巻いてぶら さがる電線やぼんやり光る電燈が目に入る。 まるでそっくり往時のままのこされている、昔の 街にタイムスリップしたような 錯覚を覚える。 通りは不思議なほどひっそりとしている。 きっと人々は小さな小部屋ほどの店で、思い思 いの時を楽しんでいるのだろう。 一日の終わりに、コンビ二で暖かいおにぎりを 買っていく。 それをほお張りながら本屋の前を通り過ぎると 、ちょうど閉店するところだ。 ユースホステルにたどり着いたあとも、身体は 疲れているのにとても眠れそうに ない。 東京は、それほど美しい。

EMMA MATSUDA

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TOKYO

It’s evening when I arrive at Tullamarine Airport in Melbourne. メルボルン空港に着いたのは、夜 だった。

A couple sleeps on the airport shuttle bus. 空港シャトルバスの中で眠る二人。

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The view from the airplane window. Soon I will be in Tokyo. 飛行機の からの眺め。すぐに私 は東京になります。

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A man places his hand guardingly on his luggage, as he waits to take one of the many trains that leads out of Narita Airport. 成田空港駅で、 スーツケースを守る ように手をかけて電車を待つ男性。

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First view of Tanashi Station, the suburb where my Aunty lives. Christmas lights decorate even the quieter suburbs of Tokyo. 叔母さんの住む田無駅の最初の光景。 この静かな郊外の街にも、クリスマス デコレーションがきらめいていた。

My Uncle Hatsuaki drinking his breakfast miso soup and quietly reading his selection of colourful Japanese newspapers. 色鮮やかな日本の新聞を読みながら 、朝食の味噌汁をすする叔父さん。

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TOKYO

Autumn in Tanashi; a never ending abundance of falling leaves. 秋の田無。おびただしい数の落ち葉。

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A man contemplates in amongst the hustle and bustle of Harajuku. 原宿の喧騒のただ中で、じっと物 思いにふける男性。

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TOKYO

A woman waits outside a candy store in Harajuku, known for its extravagantly kitsch shops, potato chip specialists, and coca cola merchandise. 原宿のキャンディーショップの前にたた ずむ女性。 ここには 超キッチュな店、ポテトチッ プス専門店、コカコーラ専門店など、 いろいろある。

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In Tokyo, you don't need a waiter. You simply order through a virtual menu, which means that your food is quickly on its way to you. 東京ではウエィターは不要。テーブル に備え付けのスクリーンメニューをタ ッチしてオーダーすると、注文の品が すばやくサーブされる。 湯のみ茶碗がこんなに並ぶことになっ たりもするが....。

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TOKYO

In an Izakaya, you can sit in a cozy separated booth on a tatami mat (no shoes allowed). These men were smoking cigarettes and enjoying conversation over a delicious large pot of ramen. 居酒屋によっては、畳敷きのこじ んまりとした居心地のいい個室風 ブースがあるところもある。 (もちろん靴を脱ぐ) ラーメンを肴 に、紫煙をくゆらせながら熱い議 論を闘わせる男性たち。

Coming out of Shinjuku train station. 新宿駅を出るところ。

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Colourful taxis, neon flashing lights, 100 yen shops, never ending Pachinko arcades, bars that are open til 8am; there is no shortage of life in Shinjuku. You will want to enter every building as your eyes swirl in every direction, or perhaps you will just want to stand there - and observe the beautiful craziness. 色鮮やかなタクシー、またたくネオ ンサイン、5階建ての100円ショッ プ、果てしなく続くパチンコ屋、朝 8時まで営 業のバー......新宿はいつ でも息づいている。 どちらを見ても、目に入るすべての 建物に入って行きたくなる。 もしくは、ただそこに立ち止まって 美しい狂騒を眺めていたくなる。

A teenage boy smokes behind discarded coffee and soft drink bottles. See the can on the far right? That’s Boss iced coffee. A vending machine staple. 置き去りにされたコーヒーや清涼 飲料水の背後で煙草を喫う少年

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TOKYO

Never ending signs and neon lights; you will fall in love with Shinjuku. 果てしなく続くネオンサインと看板。 人は新宿に恋をする。

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A man rides a bicycle through a small alley in Kichijoji – a suburb known for its cafes, shops, and picturesque charming cafés, yet offbeat scenery. 吉祥寺の裏路地を自転車で行く男性 。吉祥寺はおしゃれなカフェやショ ップ、 絵になる光景などで知られている。

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A woman tending to some hedges outside of a supermarket in humble Tanashi. In Japan everything is inexplicably neat and well kept, so that walking down a suburban street becomes a quiet joy. 田無のスーパーの外で、生垣の手入れ をする女性。 日本では全てが小ぎれいに整備されて いるので、郊外の街並みを歩 くのも楽しい。

A man reads a novel on the train. One of the few citizens without their face buried into a mobile phone. 電車の中で読書する男性。携帯をいじ っていない数少ない市民の一人。 ハイテク ファンにとって東京はたま らない都市だが、もちろん良くない面 もあわせ持つ

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TOKYO

Tokyo rush hour; it’s time to sleep. In fact, everyone sleeps on trains here. 東京のラッシュアワーは、おやすみの 時間。実際、多くの人が車中で眠っ ている。

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Shibuya is a must-see district for anyone visiting the city and famous for Shibuya Crossing, the largest pedestrian crossing in the world. You will want to spend at least 3 days exploring this area. With billboards, shops and amusements to hypnotise you at every corner, you will love walking the streets and admiring the high rise buildings. 渋谷の巨大な交差点。渋谷は東京に来 たら必ず訪れるべき街で、すくなくと も3日はかけて見て回りたい。 ただ歩き回って眺めているだけでも楽 しい。

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Two men enjoy their coffees in a café on the second level of a building. Part of the joy of Shibuya is being able to go up flights of stairs and watch the people passing by below. ビルの2階にあるカフェでくつろぐ人 々。渋谷の殆どのビルにはカフェが入 っていて、高いところから道ゆく人々 を眺めて楽しめる。

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Shibuya at night; I’ve never seen this many people before. 夜の渋谷。こんなに沢山の人、見たこ とない。目がくらみそう....。

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Shops, cafés and restaurants are open until really late in Shibuya. Which might explain why there are so many people out and about during late hours. 渋谷では、店もカフェもレストランも 夜遅くまで開いている。 これだけの人が夜更けに街に出ている のは、そのせい。

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A business man waits to cross the street at Shibuya crossing. 渋谷の交差点で信号待ちのサラリ ーマン。

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On the way to the Golden Gai district in Shinjuku. 新宿ゴールデン街に向かう途中。

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Intriguing alleyways and signage in the Golden Gai district. ゴールデン街の、好奇心をそそる路地 と看板。

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TOKYO

Bars are often interesting from the outside, making you want to enter every single one. おもしろい外観のバーが並び、そのど れもに入って行きたくなる。

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Never ending wires, cables and flickering lights. This is part of the Golden Gai district’s charm. 果てしなく続く電線と、またたく電燈 。ゴールデン街の魅力のひと。

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This may look like a cozy birthday party, but it’s actually a small bar. 誰かのバースデーパーティーにも見え るけど、実はちいさなバー。

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There is no shortage of intensely coloured lights and visual stimulation in Tokyo.

Everything beckons for you to look at, or touch. 東京では強烈な色のライトなどビジュ アルな刺激が途切れることがなく、見 る人を誘い込む。

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Reminiscent of every street corner in Shibuya and Shinjuku. 渋 谷や新宿の街並みを思い出す。た め息.....。

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I have a love affair with Tokyo’s taxis.

They’re also extremely nice and luxurious inside. Taxi drivers wear white gloves, and the doors open automatically upon entering or leaving them. 東京のタクシーに恋してしまった。と てもステキな内装、運転手は白手袋を はめていて、乗降の際はドアが自動に 開く。

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Japanese vending machines – the one thing you will miss most about Tokyo.. They light up a dull street, are full of different drinks in every one, and serve hot ginger ale. You heard me. And that white glow?

It’s like a sign from heaven. 東京で一番恋しいのは自動販売機だ。 それは退屈な通りを明るく照らし、色 んな飲み物で一杯だ。 (ホットジンジャーエールさえある) まる で天国の門のように白く輝いている。

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The book shop down the road from my Aunty’s house; conveniently open until 10pm (which is a normal time for a shop in Japan to close, believe it or not). 叔母さんの家のすぐ近くにある本屋 。便利なことに、夜10時まで開いて いる。

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An old woman folds her hands delicately on the bus trip to Tanashi station.

Goodbye Tokyo, I will miss you. 田無駅に向かうバスの中、そっと置か れた老婦人の手。 さよなら東京、別れがつらい...。

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