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MAR•APR 2019 INFORMATION. INNOVATION. INSPIRATION.

FRENCH BEAUTY Lessons in luxury

SKIN PEELS

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CONTENTS

March/April 2019

44 114

9

Editor’s Letter

10

What’s On PB radar

12

News

20

Cover story – Pelactiv reveals the Power of C

22

Viewpoint – The charity mission of companies

24

Skincare – Deskside essentials

36

Salon profile – Sole Spa

40

New Makeup

42

Makeup – Glamorous eyes

44

Tanning

46

Neon Nails

50

Brooklyn Bar serving up beauty with a difference

52

Masterclass – Uniform style

56

Style File – Gina Brooke

58

Talking Point – French Beauty

72

Real Life – The Belle of Beauty

74

Charlotte’s Web – Exclusive interview with Charlotte Tilbury

80

Education – Victoria Curtis opens her academy

82

Industry Roundtable – Advancing Education

94

Power of educating with Emma Dobson

96

Waxing

100 Industry Insider – Donna

Kerkvliet/Barneys Supplies 104 Career How I Got Here –

Heather Harrison/AST 106 Interior Trends with Melanie Grant 108 Technology 110 Wellness

42 120

112

74

Edible Beauty

116 Salon View The Doc Clinic 120 Beauty Escape Bali 124 Last Word Natalie Isaacs

ON THE COVER When Pelactiv decided to create its latest skincare range the power of Vitamin C was a standout and an obvious choice to include in its new line. Pelactiv CEO Kerry-Anne Raiola reveals the benefits of the skincare range on page 20. 8

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BHA MEDIA PUBLISHER + COMMERCIAL MANAGER Glenn Silburn EDITOR Anita Quade aquade@intermedia.com.au BEAUTY EDITOR Michelle Ruzzene mruzzene@intermedia.com.au ONLINE AND NEWS EDITOR Jenny Berich jberich@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper GROUP ART DIRECTOR Sanja Spuzanic

Until next issue,

HEAD OF CIRCULATION Chris Blacklock cblacklock@intermedia.com.au

FOLLOW US:

Professional Beauty magazine is published by BHA MEDIA ABN 23142047943

CONTRIB UTOR S

41 Bridge Road, Glebe NSW 2037 Ph: 02 9660 2113 Fax: 02 9660 4419 www.intermedia.com.au AUSTRALIAN SUBSCRIPTION RATES 1yr (6 issues) for $89.00 (inc GST) 2yrs (12 issues) for $160.20 (inc GST) 3yrs (18 issues) for $213.60 (inc GST) To subscribe and to view other overseas rates visit www.intermedia.com.au or Call: 1800 651 422 Email: subscriptions@intermedia.com.au Average Total Distribution: 8,879 AMAA/CAB Yearly Audit Period ending 31 March 2018.

Copyright © 2019 BHA MEDIA Pty Ltd.

EDITOR’S LETTER

PUBLISHER BHA MEDIA

WELCOME TO THE latest edition of Professional Beauty. We are constantly inspired by the dynamic people in the beauty industry and as we celebrated International Women’s Day in March we sat down with some industry leaders to find out about the power of giving back to the community on page 22. When it comes to inspirational women, one of the world’s favourite makeup artists turned beauty and skincare entrepreneur Charlotte Tilbury chats to us in an exclusive interview about the power of makeup, her inspiration and her cult following – one of her Pillow Talk lipsticks is sold every two minutes and her dedicated following includes the likes of Kate Moss and Victoria Beckham. Find out just how she launched her multi-million dollar empire on page 74. The beauty business is always evolving, but industry insiders have always looked to France as a source of inspiration for skincare and technology thanks to its timeless luxury. We chat about the lure of French beauty in Talking Point on page 58. First impressions count so find out how to make a lasting professional image in our Masterclass with The Uniform Stylist founder Leesa Dawson on page 52. Every edition our pages are filled with innovative product launches and inspirational stories from those in the industry and now we are extending our reach with the launch of the inaugural Beauty & Spa Insiders Summit to be held on May 27. The aim of the event is to inspire and educate beauty professionals and provide opportunities to grow your business. The day will includes inspiring talks by leaders in their field. Don’t miss out on the chance to join us for a day of inspiration. Check out the details at: www.beautyandspainsiders.com.au

Mauro Palmieri

Is a professional photographer working with people for portraiture, beauty and fashion. He regularly shoots for some of Australia’s leading brands, agencies and designers and is based in Melbourne,Australia.“Shooting this campaign for The Uniform Stylist (page 52) gave me the opportunity to work closely with an inspiring group of women, capturing not just their individual beauty but also a collective portrait of empowerment.’

Jenna Catalano

Meet PB’s new Social Media expert who has over 7 years marketing experience in the beauty industry managing luxury brands and services. Now director at Socialize Me, Jenna specialises in social media for the aesthetic and medical industry helping to grow businesses Australia wide! “I’m looking forward to revolutionising PB’s Social Media platform and building a profitable and valuable channel that connects readers with valuable industry information on a daily basis.”

Natalie Isaacs

Former cosmetics manufacturer Natalie Isaacs founded 1 Million Women to help fight the climate crisis by exploring the way we live. Read about her life’s inspiration on (page 124). We are also excited to announce that Natalie will be the keynote speaker at Australia’s inaugural Beauty & Spa Insiders summit to be held on the May 27 at Sydney’s Ovolo luxury hotel.

This publication is published by BHA MEDIA, a division of The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd (the “Publisher”). Materials in this publication have been created by a variety of different entities and, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher accepts no liability for materials created by others. All materials should be considered protected by Australian and international intellectual property laws. Unless you are authorised by law or the copyright owner to do so, you may not copy any of the materials. The mention of a product or service, person or company in this publication does not indicate the Publisher’s endorsement. The views expressed in this publication do not necessarily represent the opinion of the Publisher, its agents, company officers or employees. Any use of the information contained in this publication is at the sole risk of the person using that information. The user should make independent enquiries as to the accuracy of the information before relying on that information. All express or implied terms, conditions, warranties, statements, assurances and representations in relation to the Publisher, its publications and its services are expressly excluded save for those conditions and warranties which must be implied under the laws of any State of Australia or the provisions of Division 2 of Part V of the Trade Practices Act 1974 and any statutory modification or re-enactment thereof. To the extent permitted by law, the Publisher will not be liable for any damages including special, exemplary, punitive or consequential damages (including but not limited to economic loss or loss of profit or revenue or loss of opportunity) or indirect loss or damage of any kind arising in contract, tort or otherwise, even if advised of the possibility of such loss of profits or damages. While we use our best endeavours to ensure accuracy of the materials we create, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher excludes all liability for loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false or misleading statements that may appear in this publication.

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

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PB RADAR

On our RADAR

THE PEOPLE, PLACES AND EVENTS THAT PRO BEAUTY IS CURRENTLY CRUSHING ON LASH LIFT

Beauty enthusiasts are opting for a lash lift with natural solutions. Pinterest has found a 52% increase in searches for ‘natural lash lifts’ across the globe.

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AROUND THE WORLD BEAUTY EXPO

Beauty Melbourne is on March 23 and 24 at the Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre. We can’t wait to see the latest innovations and inspiration for the professional beauty industry.

FEELING BLUE

Makeup artist Hung Vanngo single-handedly reignited our love for blue eyeshadow with this incredible smokey eye he did for model Taylor Hill at the Oscars.

FOLLOW PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY: facebook.com/ProfessionalBeautyAust @pro_beauty_aus

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NEWS INIKA’S SALES RISE 20 PERCENT Inika Organic launched its makeup into four countries last year but nonetheless recorded its strongest sales growth in its home market. Speaking at Inika’s annual sales conference, Inika global brand manager Celia Trevisani said the brand’s sales grew by 20 percent across Australia and New Zealand from 2017 to 2018 primarily due to the salon and spa market which saw “a 70 percent increase in new stockists”. Although the 20 percent growth is less than half the phenomenal 42 percent growth recorded by the brand from 2016 to 2017, Trevisani said the company was particularly happy with the result as “it was a strong performance when compared with the overall Australian cosmetics market growth figures. Key drivers for the growth were “technical and formula innovation across new products” such as the Inika Organic Long Lash Vegan Mascara (“100 percent natural, professional quality mascara”) and brand awareness activities such as New York Fashion Week where the brand created makeup looks for two designers. Trevisani said the company had its “sights set on driving awareness and demand directly with the consumer” further in 2019. “We want consumers to know Inika Organic and to go searching for it to try and purchase with our salon and spa partners. “We have a great consumer base around our foundation and mineral powders so this year we will be creating content and education to inspire our consumers to trial additional products in our colour categories.” Internationally, the brand, which is currently stocked in 32 countries including the US, France, Italy and South Africa, will continue its “next steps towards world domination”. “There was an explosion in demand [for Inika] in Asia during 2018,” said Trevisani. The brand launched into Singapore in July, Taiwan in October and Hong Kong in November and is now planning to launch in India with its “warm weather formulas”. The team also launched into Canada with “fantastic results” in October and saw “strong growth in accounts across the US and “fantastic growth in both new door count and account sellthrough” in the US.

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NAPOLEON ENTERS VOLUNTARY ADMINISTRATION Six months after Napoleon Perdis’s shock move into Priceline Pharmacies, the eponymously-named makeup brand has gone into voluntary administration. The company, started by the makeup artist in Sydney 24 years ago, appointed administrators, Simon Cathro, Chris Cook, and Ivan Glavas of Worrells Solvency Accountants, on January 31. In a statement, the administrators revealed that Napoleon Perdis directors had been trying to sell the business for several months. They said their immediate plan for the business, which is owned by Napoleon, his wife Soula-Marie Perdis and his brother Emanuel Perdis, was to see whether it can be restructured or if a buyer can be found “while the business continues to trade”. Napoleon said he, and his family, were 100 percent committed to achieving the best outcome for all stakeholders. “The brand is still in high demand from our customers and is more innovative than ever, so by restructuring the business in this manner, we believe, puts it in a prime position to continue to evolve through continued trade or in a sale,” he said. “We are fortunate that throughout our business, we have staff and teams who have not only underpinned the business success, but who are our extended family. “Their unwavering contribution will undoubtedly pave the way for the successful and strategic trade on.”

INTRODUCING BEAUTY & SPA INSIDERS… Professional Beauty and Spa+Clinic magazines are proud to announce the launch of Australia’s inaugural BEAUTY & SPA Insiders summit. To be held on May 27 at Sydney’s Ovolo luxury hotel, the industry-only event will bring together industry experts for a day of inspiring talks, innovative ideas, and engaging conversations to help “take your beauty business to the next level”. Professional Beauty editor Anita Quade says the magazine is extremely excited to be part of this inaugural event that aims to inspire and educate beauty professionals in the industry. “As a leading B2B publication in the beauty industry we look forward to bringing together these inspiring speakers and provide a much-needed platform for those in the industry to network and provide opportunities to help businesses grow and succeed,’ she said. “It’s a not to be missed event with interesting and informative panel discussions on topics ranging from social media and e-commerce to tips on finding and retaining staff. “We look forward to building on its success and creating an annual event to empower and support those in the beauty and spa industry.” For more information visit www.beautyandspainsiders.com.au and see details on page 34-35.


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NEWS DECIEM FOUNDER PASSES AWAY Brandon Truaxe, the extraordinary man behind The Ordinary Skincare range and nine other Deciem beauty brands, died in January - just months after being ousted from the company he founded. Deciem announced Brandon’s death via Instagram: “Brandon, our founder and friend. You touched our hearts, inspired our minds and made us believe that anything is possible. Thank you for every laugh, every learning and every moment of your genius. Whilst we can’t imagine a world without you, we promise to take care of each other and will work hard to continue your vision. May you finally be at peace. Love, (forever) your Deciem.” The Estee Lauder company, which bought a 28 percent share in Deceim in 2017, followed with a statement saying that the company was “incredibly saddened by the news of his passing. Although neither company revealed the cause of death it was widely reported that 40-year-old Brandon fell from the balcony of his penthouse. His death follows a tumultuous year at Deceim which began with Brandon firing his co-chief executive Nicola Kilner in February and then rehiring her three months later. The company’s internal dramas escalated in October when Brandon posted a video on Instagram demanding that the company “shut down all operations until further notice…” as “almost everyone has been involved in a major criminal activity”. Immediately after the post, the company’s website was replaced with a red screen and its 29 stores around the world, including three in Australia, began closing down. Estee Lauder then began legal action to have Truaxe removed from his role as CEO and replaced with co-CEO Nicola Kilner. On October 12, judge Michael Penny ruled that Truaxe should be removed from his role immediately. Founded in 2013 by Brandon, Deciem produces 10 skin and hair care brands – NIOD, Hylamide, Chemistry Brand, The Ordinary, Stemm, Fountain,  HIF, Ab Crew, Abnormally and The Ordinary.Deciem launched into Australia in 2015.

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JESSICA UNDERGOES NAME CHANGE Eight years after launching Jessica Cosmetics natural nail products in Australia, Jessica Cosmetics Australia has changed its name to Masters Beauty International (MBI). Owned by Geoffrey Yeatman and Rose Bolam, the Sydney-based company took on the local distributorship of Nee Makeup in 2017 and is considering taking on other international brands in the near future. “We took on the business in late 2010 and decided to use the Jessica name in an effort to leverage off a well known and reputable brand,” explains Geoffrey. “At the same time we registered Masters Beauty International as the business entity name in the hope that we would expand our range at some point in the future.” He says the couple chose the name Masters Beauty International as, at the time, Rose and her daughter Chantelle owned a beauty salon called Masters Touch Beauty. “We decided to work off a name we already had established and we included ‘international’ as our vision is to bring international brands to Australia. “At the moment we haven’t identified the next brand but we are visiting Cosmoprof in Italy in March so who knows what we might find. Perhaps there is a brand waiting for us that will complement Jessica and Nee.”

PLASTIC SURGEON LAUNCHES SKINCARE ESSENTIALS Dr Anh Nguyen, a Perthbased plastic surgeon who owns two medispas, has launched her own skincare range to meet clients’ needs for an affordable skincare line that provides results. “I became frustrated with mixed messaging and overwhelming amount of complaints I received from clients,” she said. “Many of my clients struggled to find a skincare line which was affordable and provided results − either the high-end range was financially out of reach or they found they did not see any benefit from the supermarket brands. “I love to help people feel good about them so I decided to provide a range that was accessible, effective and tailored to their skin.” Dr Anh worked for 18 months to “develop and refine” the range based on a simple focus – “no empty promises, just pure results”. “I have sourced only the finest ingreiented based evidence to come up with a range that is cost effective and covers a wide range of skin types,” she said. Key ingredients in the new range include vitamins A, B3 C and E as well as glycolic, salicylic and hydroxy acids and mineral sunscreens.


NEWS DERMALUX WINS UK AESTHETICS AWARD – FOR THE 6TH TIME! Dermalux has won ‘Best Manufacturer in the UK’ award at the prestigious 2018 Aesthetics Awards in London. It is the sixth time the LED treatment has had a major win at the Awards – it won ‘Best New Treatment’ in 2013 and ‘Treatment of the Year’ in 2014, 2015, 2016 and 2017. Thanking Dermalux’s clients and partners around the world for their continued support, Dermalux director Louise Taylor told the 800 guests at the gala awards ceremony that the win was a fantastic achievement for the brand. “This award demonstrates our continued commitment to the quality and efficacy of our technology to ensure it is results driven, industry leading and safe,” she said. Held at the Park Plaza Westminster Bridge Hotel, the Aesthetics Awards celebrate the achievements of practitioners, companies and organisations in the beauty industry that “endorse best practice, deliver outstanding customer service, demonstrate unprecedented skill and uphold robust ethics”. The ‘Best Manufacturer’ award recognises the manufacturers who offer an up-to-date range of equipment and product development, as well as demonstrate excellent customer service and ongoing support for practitioners using their products. According to Dermalux’s official Awards’ entry, the brand “allows the team to control component quality and push boundaries in terms of technology and reliability, resulting in the production of high-quality products that are sold all over the world”. Launched in Australia in 2015 by Professional Beauty Solutions, the Dermalux Tri-Wave system combines wavelengths of light with the latest generation LED technology to deliver clinically safe and effective results for a wide range of skin conditions without discomfort or downtime. “After just one treatment, Dermalux instantly energises skin cells to revitalise a dull and tired complexion,” said Professional Beauty Solutions managing director Matt Williams.

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AMY JEAN TAKES ON THE INTERNATIONAL LUXURY MARKET Australia’s most famous brow tattooing specialist, Amy Jean, is launching her eyebrow makeup collection onto the international luxury market. Launched locally last year, the Privée Collection is the first eyebrow range to be included on Net-A-Porter which boasts a global monthly audience of six million female luxury fans via its weekly shoppable digital magazine. Renowned for “its unparalleled edit”, the site currently features products from 450 of the world’s most coveted designer fashion brands including Gucci, Saint Laurent and Givenchy as well as over 200 specialist beauty brands including Marc Jacobs Beauty, Charlotte Tilbury and Chantecaille. Amy Jean, who is the ‘arch angel’ to celebrities such as Roxy Jacenko, Michelle Bridges and Delta Goodrem, said she expects the brand’s move onto the luxury site to be a “sell-out success” which will put Australia on the global beauty map. “The products are manufactured in Italy and offer precise application to guarantee pro-like perfection at home – even for the artistically-challenged,” she said. The first three Privée Collection products to launch onto the site are three of Amy Jean’s “favourites” from the – the brow veil (6 shades), micro-stroke pencil $42 (6 shades) and the brow beam highlighter (2 shades).

CRABTREE & EVELYN SHUTS DOWN IN AUSTRALIA Crabtree & Evelyn, the luxury brand renowned for its fragrant hand and body creams, closed its 12 Australian stores in January. The closures followed the company’s announcement that it was aiming to close all its retail stores around the world but retain its online business. The company began the closure of 12 stores in Singapore and 19 in Canada after filing for bankruptcy protection in Canada in December due to “significant losses”. In Australia, the company had 12 stores with around 100 staff including one store in Sydney’s QVB and another in Melbourne’s Chadstone Shopping Centre. Restructuring consultants KordaMentha were employed to close the stores. “We decided to execute the close-down of Crabtree & Evelyn in Australia through an orderly, solvent wind-down rather than through a voluntary administration process,” KordaMentha partner Scott Langdon told The Australian Financial Review. “It’s our view that an orderly and solvent wind-down is a responsible and mature response to a difficult retail trading environment.”


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NEWS AMAZON LAUNCHES MAKEUP Amazon, the world’s largest online retailer, has launched its first makeup collection under its Find fashion label. Currently only available in the UK, the budget-priced collection is divided into four  categories: • Eyes – shadow palettes, mascaras, eye liners and eyebrow pencils (21 products) Face – highlighters and bronzers (five products) • Lips – lipsticks, lip glosses and lip liners (48 products) • Nails – polishes, basecoat, top coat and nail oil (7  products) The products will be sold in bundles of complementary items rather than individually. For example the Bold Beauty Lip Bundle combines Shiny Lipstick no.8 and Lip Liner no.5 while the most expensive offering in the range is the Highlight Lowlight Contouring Bundles, which includes one highlighter and one low lighter. The makeup collection is the latest addition to Amazon’s fashion brand which launched in the EU in 2017 with 700 items of clothing and shoes for men and women and now has over 2000 lines. Despite Amazon’s success at disrupting so many markets around the world, the behemoth’s move into the beauty market has thus far generated few concerns from the industry. Nonetheless Qz.com reports that although the company’s “unassuming move into the beauty space” hasn’t yet “set off alarm bells” it “could signal the beginning of a more aggressive  campaign”. “The company has successfully disrupted everything from books to furniture without much fanfare, and Amazon’s private-label business (which includes over 80 of its own brands) is expanding at the expense of big brands, and is on track to generate US$25 billion by 2022.” Indeed Amazon, which sells ‘luxury beauty’, professional beauty’ and ‘indie beauty products’, is already a premier destination for cosmetic products. A 2016 survey by AT Kearney found that 69 percent of American women who shop online for beauty products searched and bought beauty and personal products on Amazon compared to 41 percent at Sephora and 37 percent at Ulta.

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BENEFIT COSMETICS CO-FOUNDER LEGACY Jean Ann Ford, who co-founded Benefit Cosmetics with her twin sister Jane in the 1970s, has died at the age of 71. Announcing Jean’s death via Instagram, the company (which is now owned by LVMH), said: “It is with great sadness we share that our beloved co-founder, Jean Ann Ford, has passed away. “Jean leaves behind a makeup dynasty, a legacy of creativity, and the belief that ‘Laughter is the Best Cosmetic’. “Jean’s daughters @maggiefd and @anniefd, know that their mother’s sharp creativity and bad ass spirit will live on in Benefit customers around the world.” Jean and her sister Jane opened their first makeup shop, The Face Place, in San Francisco in 1976 after a short stint working as models. Just one year later, the sisters created their first product – a rose coloured ‘nipple stain’. According to the company, an exotic dancer called Rosie walked into the shop looking for a product to turn her “areolae pinker for customers at the back of the room”. Jean and Jane told her to come back the next day and spent that night boiling rose petals to create a nipple stain called Rose Tint. Today that rose tint, renamed Benetint after the Face Place changed its name to Benefit Cosmetics in 1990, is still one of the brand’s most popular products.

CLINIQUE LAUNCHES PERSONALISED ID Clinique, the 50-yearold American brand, is targeting a new generation of customers with the launch of Clinique ID – “a customised hydration system” built around its renowned Dramatically Different Moisturizer. Clinique iD enables customers to create their own custom-blend hydrator by selecting a base (Dramatically Different moisturizing lotion, oil control gel or hydrating gel) and a concentrated active to target their main skin concern (Irritation, Fatigue, Pores & Uneven Skin Texture, Uneven Skin Tone or Lines & Wrinkles). The cartridge containing the active is then inserted in the bottle containing the Dramically Different base so that it can be dispensed in precise doses whenever the customer uses the product. Clinique’s senior vice president of global marketing who led iD’s development, Julien Moignard told Allure that the company’s research finding that 68 percent of US women believe they have yet to find the right facial moisturiser for their skin was behind the system’s development. “We found that it can take them up to two years to find the perfect match, and up to five trials of different moisturisers … that’s why we felt that Clinique was the right brand to solve this problem at the right time. “We are all different, and one solution that fits all should not be the norm anymore,” he said.


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COVER STORY

PELACTIV SKINCARE

– where science meets nature When it came to creating the latest skincare range choosing Vitamin C was an obvious choice explains Pelactiv CEO Kerry-Anne Raiola. The Power Of Vitamin C+ Today, Vitamin C used in skincare is still proving to be an outstanding performer in providing amazing results for a multitude of skin conditions. Australian skins are constantly punished by the harsh environmental conditions we are exposed to. Our skins are constantly fighting major free radical damage. Sun, undoubtedly the most damaging leaves our skin exposed to premature ageing, pigmentation, and thickened skin. Add to that smoking, poor diet, extreme weather conditions, air conditioning/heating – and you can have a total recipe for disaster for your precious skin. The Pelactiv Vitamin C+ skincare range has followed the tried and tested philosophy of combining science with nature to develop a performance product that rejuvenates, hydrates and heals the skin. By using a combination of L-Ascorbic Acid, Kakadu Plum and Lactic Acid we have created a range of results driven Vitamin C products that provide a visible difference to the skin. This combination of science with nature allows a better absorption into the skin making our delivery system unique. Our system has direct communication with your skin, speaking the skin’s language.

Why Choose Vitamin C+ It was an obvious choice to make the decision to develop this range. Pelactiv Skincare Therapists were constantly giving us feedback as to how sun damaged a lot of their clients were – especially pigmented. This is a direct side effect of living in an environment such as ours and as such has created strong demand for this treatment range, which continues to grow. Clients wanted the results from this Vita C range without the reactions such as flakiness and redness. Therein lies the launch of the Pelactiv Vita C+ Professional Skincare Range. Our treatment range has gone one step further to now provide an intensive Vitamin C+ treatment facial that delivers instant results. ‘Bright, luminous, clear’ are often the first remarks following one treatment. Even as a ‘booster’ facial, this treatment range offers instant results.

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We noticed that there were a lot of ‘hero’ products or indivdual treatment products that treat a specific concern. We wanted a complete system – the perfect range of Vitamin C+ products that deliver a complete facial regime with ongoing results.

Environmental Factors Free radicals are found in our skin and when exposed to pollution or other environmental factors like smoke or sunlight they break down our collagen and elastin fibres. Collagen and elastin are essential proteins providing elasticity to the skin helping it to appear more youthful, firmer and healthier. Breakdowns of collagen and elastin cause the skin to age by showing signs of premature ageing such as wrinkles and loss of elasticity. The main performers in this range are: L-Ascorbic Acid, Kakadu Plum and Lactic Acid.

Lactic Acid It was an obvious choice for Pelactiv to incorporate the use of Lactic Acid into its Vitamin C range. The benefits only enhance the ongoing use of these products. Lactic Acid is a form of AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) which provides so many functions. Exfoliating, hydrating, lightening, firming, fights the visible signs of premature ageing. Effective, yet not aggressive so can be used by most skin types.

L-Ascorbic Acid Pelactiv haven chosen L-Ascorbic Acid as it is the only antioxidant that both neutralises free radicals and dramatically increases synthesis of collagen. L-Ascorbic Acid is the only Vitamin C that can easily penetrate the skins cells. Pelactiv use high concentrations (15%) of Vitamin C in their serums to ensure that it is topically effective. Alongside the active ingredient of L-Ascorbic Acid Pelactiv have added the benefits of our amazing Australian Native Botanicals for obvious reasons.

Kakadu Plum The benefits of Kakadu Plum are used to enhance the performance of the Pelactiv Vita C+ skincare range. It is an antioxidant, stimulates collagen production and evens skin tone. Kakadu Plum contains a considerable amount of Vitamin C that plays an essential role in slowing down the ageing process. Our therapists were excited with the visible results their clients were getting from the ongoing use of the Vita C+ skincare products.


With Australian Native Plant Extracts 500mLl This deliciously refreshing foaming gel cleanser enriched with Vitamin C and Green Tea Extract offers immediate moisture to the skin plus long term hydration as it removes impurities without drying your skin. Specifically formulated to re-hydrate and soften the skin while gently minimising pores. Leaves skin clean, soft and beautifully hydrated.

HYDRA MOIST TONER Vita-C Complex

With Australian Native Plant Extracts 500mL An extremely gentle toner that delivers the correct control of moisture leaving the skin balanced and refreshed. This formula contains Vitamin C and natural plant extracts of green tea and cucumber which help minimise open pores whilst providing improved skin texture and clarity. Beautifully calming and rehydrating.

RAPID C SERUM Vita-C Complex 15% Vitamin C

With Australian Native Plant Extracts 50mLl This concentrated 15% Stable Vitamin C Serum (L-Ascorbic Acid) has been specifically formulated to effectively deliver high concentrations of stable Vitamin C to your skin. Formulated to combat visible signs of premature ageing caused by sun exposure, pollution, smoking and harsh environmental conditions. A powerful 15% concentration of L-Ascorbic acid works below the skin to simultaneously protect against premature ageing caused by UVA/UVB rays, whilst stimulating new collagen production. Regular use regenerates collagen and lightens sun-induced pigmentation leaving a more youthful appearance. Dramatically improves skin clarity.

COVER STORY

FRESH GEL CLEANSER Vita-C Complex

RAPID C SERUM + AHA Vita-C Complex 15% Vitamin C + AHA

With Australian Native Plant Extracts 50mL A potent 15% Stable Vitamin C Serum scientifically formulated to effectively deliver high concentrations of stable Vitamin C to your skin. Formulated to combat visible signs of premature ageing using a unique combination of Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic, Kakadu Plum), AHA’s (Milk Extract) & BHA’s that work both above and below the surface of the skin. A powerful 15% concentration of L-Ascorbic acid works below the skin to simultaneously protect against premature ageing caused by UVA/UVB rays, whilst stimulating new collagen production. The AHA’s & BHA’s work on the surface of the skin by exfoliating dead skin cells and hydrating the new skin beneath.

DAY RADIANCE Vita-C Complex

With Australian Native Plant Extracts 500mL A beautifully smooth cream that instantly provides an intense moisture surge to the skin. An exclusive blend of Vitamin C and active firming ingredients that restores vital moisture levels in the skin while actively working on reducing fine lines and imperfections. It repairs skin suffering free radical damage from environmental conditions and provides powerful antioxidant protection.

INTENSIVE EYE COMPLEX Vita-C Complex

With Australian Native Plant Extracts 50mL This superior Eye Gel formulation provides an intense Three Step Repair System to firm, lighten and smooth the skin surrounding the delicate eye area. Containing powerful ingredients of Eyeliss TM and Haloxyl TM, this Intensive Eye Complex is known to reduce under eye bags and lighten under eye circles with regular use.

Note: The benefits of Vitamin C skincare can have a superior outcome when combined with the support of Vitamin C orally – whether specifically in your diet or by form of tablet/powder. Supports immunity, oxygenates and strengthens cells, improves absorption of iron. Not produced by the body, Vitamin C is an essential vitamin. When using cosmeceutical strength skin care products always incorporate using a full spectrum SPF50+ for maximum protection from harmful UVA/UVB rays. Pelactiv - Proudly 100% Australian made and owned by The Australian Skin Care Company Pty Ltd. Manufactured and packaged in Australia. NOT TESTED ON ANIMALS. n For information on the Pelactiv Vita C+ professional skin care range please phone Pelactiv on (02) 84225000 or mail sales@pelactiv.com | www.pelactiv.com

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VIEWPOINT

The culture of

GIVING BACK

When it comes to creating change through giving back these companies are leading the way by championing a worthy cause. By Anita Quade

IN TODAY’S CORPORATE CULTURE there is a rise in companies giving back and the beauty industry is no exception with countless companies leading the way to improve the lives of others. Australian owned company Jax Wax opt to support indigenous youth groups in a bid to boost their learning. It’s a matter close to the heart of its National Training Manager Michele Hetherington who has close ties with the community and is passionate about helping Aboriginal families, and importantly the community. “Jax Wax donates a percentage from the sales of their new Australian flora range to help support indigenous youth groups in sport and learning pathways, Michele said. “The northern New South Wales town of Kempsey is a place haunted by the ghosts of it’s past. The people here have seen more than their fair share of tragedy and division through the years, sadly the past is not past, and many Aboriginal families still struggle with a profound sense of loss and are still subjected to racial discrimination. My Grandmother is of the stolen generation, and to be associated with a company that respects Indigenous Australian’s means a lot, not only to me but to the community. The support from Jax Wax will not only help the current generations but will benefit those for years to come,” she said. Dermaviduals co-founder Reika Roberts is commited to making a difference in the lives of cancer patients by providing training and education programs with skincare practitioners across Australia and New Zealand. By 2020 she aims to put in place a register of Oncology Aesthetics Practioners who have

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been trained and accredited in treating cancer patients pre, during and post treatments. She has enlisted the help of internationally renowned Oncology Aesthetics expert Morag Currin who will provide a series of workshops and training programs. “Cancer is never an easy topic to talk about, let alone understand. However, it is my intention to educate, inform and elevate a national dialogue in our industry about cancer to all of our clients as to how dermaviduals can help manage the changes in the skin that occurs depending on the form of cancer treatment. “Our focus on Oncology Aesthetics means that more skin treatment therapists can make a difference to the quality of lives of people afflicted with this insidious disease. After all, the beauty salon/spa is a place that can offer tremendous relief both psychologically and physically, from cancer treatment. My focus is to provide an education platform so that more clinics and spas can offer accredited places to offer modified skin treatments which can accommodate the increased effects such as burning, redness, ulceration, pigmentation and scarring,” said Reika. Morag Currin, who launched the world’s first Oncology Aesthetics certification program in the US in 2008, was in Sydney recently to conduct workshops for beauty professionals and help Derma Aesthetics (the distributor of dermaviduals) begin implementing the program. According to Currin, whose lifelong mission is “to ensure no client gets turned away from a clinic due to the therapist not being confident in how to treat them”, says there is a huge need for oncology aesthetics in beauty salons and spas. “Beauty treatments can offer numerous benefits for cancer patients including relaxation, symptom relief (eg, massage can help pain, stress and fatigue) and appearance recovery (skin treatments, brow ‘reconstruction’ and makeup ‘lessons’). “The evidence is clear that cancer patients have an improved quality of life and reduced depression when they feel better about their appearance.” However, many cancer patients who want to have such treatments avoid attending salons and spas for many reasons including being nervous because the therapist is not informed and it could be a negative experience and they do not have the energy to talk about the disease and the process. Currin believes the Oncology Aesthetics registered practitioners program


will help encourage cancer patients to attend salons and spas. Roberts explained that the decision to launch the program in Australia is “a bit of a personal crusade”. “I can’t think of anyone in my life that hasn’t been afflicted with cancer in some way,” she says. “It is such an insidious disease, and we are passionate about helping people with cancer. “As distributors, if our products can help cancer patients feel better, and we can help establish an accredited oncology aesthetics program that creates a safe environment for staff and cancer patients and survivors to have spa treatments, then I will be very satisfied.” The course is made up of an online theoretical component which should take around 30 hours to complete and additional training with appearance recovery modules can be done in-class over two days. Dermalogica is also leading the way by shining a light on gender inequality in the creative industries. The company has partnered with female photography collective, Agender, in an effort to raise awareness around gender inequality in the photography industry. The partnership began on International Women’s Day with the launch of Dermalogica’s

THE BEAUTY SALON/SPA IS A PLACE THAT CAN OFFER TREMENDOUS RELIEF BOTH PSYCHOLOGICALLY AND PHYSICALLY, FROM CANCER TREATMENT. new light-activated innovation, Prisma Protect, shot by Agender and featuring three talented Australian women. The collaboration is the latest embodiment of Dermalogica’s long-standing FITE initiative (Financial Independence Through Entrepreneurship) which aims to economically empower women globally by providing them with opportunities. By partnering with Agender, a platform for change for female photographers, Dermalogica hope to shine a light on unconscious biases that exist in the photography industry, spark change and bring about parity between genders. “Dermalogica’s mission has always been to bring respect to the professional skin therapist. And in an industry that is 98% female, this is a goal that is closely linked to gender equality. We know that when women succeed, everyone succeeds. It is with this purpose in mind that we aim to educate, innovate, and move the conversation forward. We envisage that this partnership will continue the shift towards true equality”, says Dermalogica Australia General Manager, Kristie Millgate. The launch of Dermalogica Prisma Protect – a lightactivated skin defense moisturiser – provided the perfect platform with the campaign imagery, shot by two of Agender’s photographers Cybele Malinowski and Anna Pogossova and features three creative Australian women. n

Beauté Pacifique. Expect more from your skincare


SKINCARE

WORKING

Nine to Five Keep on makin’ a livin’ with these desk-side beauty essentials

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LEFT Mesoestetic Imperfection Control Advanced Cosmeceuticals 08 9409 5433 Murad MattEffect Blotting Perfector – Murad 1800 687 237 Bobbi Brown Extra Lip Tint in Bare Raspberry Bobbi Brown 1800 304 283 Jane Iredale D2O Hydration Spray Margifox Distributors 1300 850 008 Li’tya Australian Native Lip Balm – Global Brands Australia 03 9587 7088 Dermalogica Antioxidant Hydra Mist – Dermalogica 1800 659 118 Aspect Gold Hydrating Lip Balm Advanced Skin Technology 1800 648 851 Medik8 Advanced Total Day Protect Advanced Cosmeceuticals 08 9409 5433 Skinstitut Multi-Active Mist – Skinstitut 02 9460 7559 Payot Blue Techni Liss Jour – Payot 02 9874 1166 Dermaviduals DMS Deodorant Cream – Dermaviduals 02 9960 1300 Doctor Eckstein Beautipharm Lecithin Nail Oil Eckstein Australia Real Skin Care 1800 026 306 Endota Organics Hydrate Me Mist – Endota Spa 03 5971 8700

ABOVE Kerstin Florian Organic Calm Mind Aromatherapy Oil BLC Cosmetics 02 9430 2200 Ultraceuticals Ultra Balancing Skin Mist Ultraceuticals 02 9660 3066 Asap Hydrating Lip Balm – Asap Skin Products 1300 131 970 Alpha H Daily Essential Vitamin Mist – Alpha H 1800 659 777 Babor HSR Lifting Extra Firming Neck & Decollete Cream Babor Cosmetics Australia 1800 139 139 Beauty Blender Bounce Liquid Whip Long Wear Foundation Beauty Blender customer.service@beautyblender.com O Cosmedics Mineral Pro SPF 30+ Inskin Cosmedics 02 9712 8188 Vita Liberta Trystal Minerals – Encore Beauty 02 9686 3488 Guinot Clean Logic Revitalising Care Lotion Hamaya International 02 9737 9872 Anesi Urban BlueDefense Serum International Beauty Supplies 03 9486 3211 Colorescience Sunforgettable Mineral Finishing Powder SPF 30 Advanced Skin Technology 1800 648 851

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SKINCARE

Fresh Exfoliate dead cells and brighten clogged, dull skin with these peels

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START


LEFT Dermaviduals DMS Peeling Cream Dermaviduals 02 9960 1300 Skinstitut Enzymatic Micro Peel – Skinstitut 02 9460 7559 Dermalogica Age Smart Rapid Reveal Peel Dermalogica 1800 659 118 Skeyndor Derma Peel Pro Vogue Image Group 03 9821 0033 Peter Thomas Roth FirmX Peeling Gel – Peter Thomas Roth support@peterthomasroth.zendesk.com Image Skincare I Peel Forte Professional Beauty Solutions 1800 625 387 Alpha H Beauty Sleep Power Peel – Alpha H 1800 659 777 Payot Blue Techni Liss Week-End – Payot 02 9874 1166 Kerstin Florian Correcting At-Home Professional Peel BLC Cosmetics 02 9430 2200

ABOVE O Cosmedics Corrective Cleanser & Peel – Inskin Cosmedics 02 9712 8188 Asap Reveal Peel with AHA/BHA – Asap Skin Products 1300 131 970 Ella Baché Resurfacing Peel – Ella Baché 1800 789 234 Mesoestetic Resurfacing Peel Booster Advanced Cosmeceuticals 08 9409 5433 Comfort Zone Sublime Skin Peel Pads – BLC Cosmetics 02 9430 2200 Endota New Age Rapid Enzyme Peel – Endota Spa 03 5971 8700 Murad Environmental Shield Rapid Resurfacing Peel Murad 1800 687 237 Environ Focus Care Clarity+ Hydroxy Acid Sebu-Clear Masque Margifox Distributors 1300 850 008 Teoxane Radiant Night Peel – Mondeal Aesthetics 1800 633 830 Kadalys Musaclean Organic Masque Peeling Exfoliant Encore Beauty 02 9686 3488 La Biosthetique Peeling Enzymatique – La Biosthetique 1300 554 069 PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

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DURING THE DAY

8 PM

9 AM TO 5 PM

8 AM

MORNING RUSH

BED TIME

AG E P R E V E N T I O N CLINICALLY TESTED

SUPRÊME JEUNESSE ESSENCE

SUPRÊME JEUNESSE LÈVRES

SUPRÊME JEUNESSE NUIT

THE SKIN TEXTURE IS REFINED : 80%*

LIPS ARE INSTANTLY PLUMPED : 68%**

29% LESS WRINKLES***

* Satisfaction test under dermatological control on 20 women. % of subjects who noticed the effect. Daily application of Suprême Jeunesse Essence combined with Suprême Jeunesse Jour for 28 days. ** Satisfaction test under dermatological control on 22 women. % of subjects who noticed the effect. Daily application for 28 days. *** Clinical study under dermatological control on 21 subjects. Daily application of Suprême Jeunesse Nuit for 28 days.


As seen in H Payot w arpers Bazaa r ant to s end YO & Vogue maga U New z Custom ines ers


SKINCARE

Soandt supple

Replenish lost moisture and protect fingers from the elements with these hand creams

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LEFT Image Skincare Vital C Hydrating Hand and Body Lotion Professional Beauty Solutions 1800 625 387 Dermaviduals DMS Hand Cream – Dermaviduals 02 9960 1300 Payot Crème Mains Douceur – Payot Cosmetics 02 9874 1166 Environ Hand & Nail Cream – Margifox Distributors 1300 850 008 Dermatonics Hand & Nail Nutrition – Dermatoincs 0430 582 508 Salt of the Earth Mineral Cream – Switch Funky 1800 700 510 Aspect Gold Hand Cream – Advanced Skin Technology 1800 648 851 Medik8 Hand & Nail Cream – Advanced Cosmeceuticals 1800 242 011 Alpha H Liquid Gold Rose Hand Cream – Alpha H 1800 659 777 Thalgo Cold Cream Marine – BLC Cosmetics 02 9430 2200

ABOVE Comfort Zone Tranquility Hand Cream – BLC Cosmetics 02 9430 2200 Lycon Lavender &Chamomile Hand and Body Lotion Lycon 07 789 234 Jane Iredale Hand Drink – Margifox Distributors 1300 850 008 La Roche-Posay Barrier Repairing Cream – L’Oréal Australia 03 8680 0000 Murad Rejuvenating AHA Hand Cream – Murad 1800 687 237 Du’It Tough Hands For Her – Du’It 02 8883 0011 Jax Wax Blackbean After Wax Body Lotion Jax Wax Australia 03 5943 2422 OPI Pro Spa Protective Hand, Nail & Cuticle Cream International Beauty Supplies 03 9486 3211 Eco By Sonya Driver Hand & Nail Cream – Eco Tan 1300 596 118 Pelactiv Conditioning Hand Treatment – Pelactiv02 8422 5000 Pure Fiji Nourishing Hand Crème Professional Beauty Solutions 1800 625 387 PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

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SKINCARE Medik8 r-Retinoate Intense - Advanced Cosmeceuticals 08 9409 5433

Dermatonics Enzyme Exfoliating Gel Dermatoincs 0430 582 508

Eco By Sonya Eye Compost – Eco Tan 1300 596 118

Ella-Baché Charcoal Foaming Mask Ella Baché 1800 789 234

Sothys Nutri Melting Balm Vanilla Passionfruit Sothys 02 9477 7844

Nouveau Lashes Rejuvenating Eye Cream & Mask Bio Beauty Concepts 02 8218 4500

Ultraderm All in One Micellar Cleanser Ultraderm 1300 660 297

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Li’Tya Herbal Kelp Intensive Hydrating Polish - Global Brands Australia 03 9587 7088

Beauté Pacifique SuperFruit Hydrating Face Mist -Beaute Pacifique 03 9562 0513


Asap Firming Eye Lift Asap Skin Products 03 8683 3333

Adorn Botanical Acne Facial Oil - Adorn Cosmetics 03 9808 4422

Ginger & Me Regenerative Nourishing Cream - Inskin Cosmedics 02 9712 8188

Dermaviduals Total Cleansing Cream Dermaviduals 02 9960 1300

Comfort Zone Sublime Skin Oil Serum - BLC Cosmetics 02 9430 2200

Neek Vegan Cleanser hello@neekskinorganics.com

Image Skincare MD Restoring Retinol Crème - Professional Beauty Solutions 1800 625 387

Phyt’sPurifying Organic Mask with Charcoal Phyt’s Australia & New Zealand 1300 656 627

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SALON VIEW

Heart AND SOL Sol Spa is providing a blissful escape from everyday life for all of its clients, regardless of age, writes Michelle Ruzzene.

EVETTE AND MARK Moran, the owners of Sol Spa, in Sydney’s exclusive suburb of Vaucluse, are true visionaries. The spa is just one of the elements that make up the Sol Living Lifestyle Precinct that incorporates the extremely instagrammable, farmto-table restaurant The Botanica Vaucluse, Sol Providore, Harry’s Café, James Bull Bar and a weekend farmer’s market. It’s a development located within Mark Moran Vaucluse, a $115 million deluxe aged care facility that has a strong focus on design excellence, wellness and community connectivity. Evette said the philosophy for the spa came about after visiting Chiva Som in Thailand, known as one of the world’s leading spa retreats, and many of the therapists were trained there. “I believe in living mindfully,” Evette said. “At Sol Spa, we have created an environment that nurtures your wellness. A serene and safe space, where you can step out of your daily life and focus on healing the body and calming the mind.” This holistic approach to wellness is reflected fully in the spa’s menu that is broken down into signature massages, signature packages, body treatments, facials, scrubs, holistic and traditional therapies and hands and feet. At the luxe end of the menu is a five-hour experience that starts with a Himalayan salt body scrub, followed by a private steam shower, a Dead Sea mud body mask, a scalp massage, a body soufflé, a massage, personalised facial and a hand and foot treatment.

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Halfway through the treatment a delicious Ayurvedic bento box is served fresh from the restaurant. Some of the options based on holistic and traditional therapies include Chi Nei Tsang (healing touch therapy form China), Reiki (energy healing), Maram Abhyanga (Ayurvedic massage), Shirobhyanga (Indian head massage), Shirodhara (warm oil poured on the forehead) and Thai herbal massage. Spa manager Zoe Leonard said the quality of the treatments were second to none. “We’ve got extremely trained physiotherapists and remedial massage therapists working here,” Zoe said. “We don’t do manis and pedis, or waxing or tinting – we just do skin and body treatments. Some of our staff used to massage the Thai royal family so you can imagine how skilled they are. We only provide the highest quality spa treatments here.” The spa is just about to launch Sol Skin, as Zoe said she had seen the demand for results-driven treatments increase. “We want to be able to offer that Medispa side as well,” she explained. “People want a luxe experience with a results-driven situation, which is why we are launching a skin clinic that people can visit regularly to fix and maintain their skin issues.” Zoe said an important part of the spa’s aesthetically pleasing décor was the giant Himalayan rock salt lamp. “Himalayan rock salt is a natural antibacterial and anti-inflammatory substance that improves the skin’s health,” she said. “Negative ions are emitted by the salt lamp which yields positive effects on indoor air - these ions enter the pores of your skin and work their regenerative magic.” She said the lamp also helped to keep visitors’ lungs cleaner and improve their breathing by cleansing, deodorising and purifying the air. “It also raises energy levels and promotes relaxation, bringing a refreshing, rejuvenating energy into the space,” she explained. The pink of the rock salt lamp perfectly complements the rest of the spa’s décor which includes blush pink chaise lounges and walls, fur throws, orchids,


fresh flowers and a smattering of Eastern-inspired adornments. Zoe said after careful consideration, Guinot was chosen as the skincare brand of choice for the spa. “I looked at a lot of brands but we decided to partner with Guinot because it flows nicely with our spa and it fits with our clients’ needs,” she said. “Guinot is a really nice company supplier-wise, they are very helpful and they can’t do enough for you.” Facials include the Guinot Botanical Facial, The Guinot Sage Summum, Hyrdadermie Youth using the ionisation effect of the hydradermie machine and Hydradermie Lift which works on skin tone by stimulating facial muscles using electrotherapy rollers. For clients who request organic options they also stock Mukti for personalised facials. Zoe manages a team of five, full-time staff at the spa, which she credits to the spa’s success. “We have the most amazing staff here, we have been really lucky with everyone we’ve hired,” she said. “I’m very staff-centric and I don’t like to micromanage anyone at all, I let everyone just do their own thing.” It’s clearly a philosophy that is working well for Zoe and her staff, with plans to expand the Sol Spa concept both in Australia and overseas in the future. n The Botanica Vaucluse Sol Spa, 2 Laguna St, Vaucluse, NSW, 2030 www.thebotanicavaucluse.com.au/sol-spa

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BUSINESS

The truth about

CLINICAL STUDIES

It is important to consider the validity of studies and the science behind them reveals Dr Hans Lautenschläger. CLINICAL TESTING FOR skincare products and active ingredients are often looking to prove or disprove a theory or demonstrate the efficacy. Here is a breakdown of the different forms and requirements of clinical testing.

EFFICACY This is an essential criterion for the selection of pharmaceutical drugs and cosmetic products. Efficacy means that somebody observed or measured a modified condition after applying an active agent or a cream. Since individuals react in very different ways, an isolated observation usually is not sufficient. Similar to a survey, a representative group of individuals has to report on their perceptions or alternatively, an appropriate series of tests are required. Results are then combined and evaluated. If only a small number of cases are available, it is referred to as a practice-based study. Sound studies however imply a high number of cases and statistical evaluation according to approved standards and defined parameters have been followed and met. In this context, statistical significance is calculated to identify objective efficacy in contrast to unavoidable random effects. To remain with the example active agent and in order to exclude placebo effects, it is advisable to compare conditions both with and without active agents, but also before and after the application. In these test scenarios, neither patients nor treating persons should know who received the active agent and who did not receive it. This procedure is called double blind study.

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STUDIES CAN BE UNRELIABLE The majority of studies are unreliable due to significant facts not being considered or they are perhaps disproved by other studies. Consumers will wonder what is correct now? Within our media-dominated culture, this situation causes confusion since the arguments that are brought forward pro or contra certain results depend on particular interests or alternatively, studies are preferred that fit best the mould of the narrative being told. A more recent example for such kind of a deadlock in studies is the discussion on the harmfulness of aluminum salts used in deodorant and antiperspirant products. In order to evaluate studies and tests, they have to be accessible for public use. It is a fact though, that the statement “dermatologically tested� is completely useless. Admittedly, it insinuates that a dermatologist was present during testing or that the product was examined according to dermatological criteria however, neither the type of test nor the result has been disclosed in detail. A similar example is the term hypoallergenic, which also is useless without a closer explanation of the conducted tests. Another example in this context are before and after pictures that were taken in non-standard conditions such as lighting, contrasts, background etc. No need to be an expert to recognise manipulations and realise that these are not reliable studies.

ORAL AND TOPICAL APPLICATION It is also not possible to bring the effects of orally applied substances in line with topically applied substances. Orally taken evening primrose oil is only effective in a certain percentage of atopic patients with delta-6-desaturase deficit or with a low level of essential fatty acids in general. The dominating topical effect is due to the fact that the contained gamma-linolenic acid is metabolised through the natural 15-lipoxygenase of the skin into anti-inflammatory metabolites. That is the reason why the results of oral and topical studies are diverging and show a broad range of efficacy from non-effective to highly effective substance. It is important to know these underlying conditions in order to understand the effects, to predict them in isolated cases and use them accordingly. In this context, also the features of oral collagen preparations have to be mentioned. While topical collagens lead to a light tension on the skin surface


through hydrogen bridge linkage and together with a slight bolster effect show a measurable wrinkle reduction, the amino acids of orally taken preparations are partly integrated into the dermal collagen. Studies account on a significant wrinkle reduction in the case of regular oral intake (“wrinkle smoothing from inside“).This effect does not need to be doubted in particular. Nevertheless, it should be noted that the studies only confirm known wisdom that food influences the complexion. It would be interesting to know the respective share of test participants in this study, who more or less avoid meat in their diet.

ALLERGENIC EFFECTS OF SUBSTANCES Another issue to deal with is reports on the allergenic effects of cosmetic ingredients being communicated, although the quality of components and particularly their purity has changed over the years. This is the case with the frequently used propylene glycol which in the past obviously was fraught with impurities such as the allergenic base component or other impurities forming reactions, both due to its synthesis from propylene via propylene oxide. Today we can be assured that the substance neither has irritating effects nor is its allergenicity worth mentioning. With regard to health and toxicity, the 100% pure propylene glycol has not a single (!) GHS marking. This is indeed an exceptional case for such kind of ingredient as a pure substance.

STUDY REQUIREMENTS An important requirement for a relevant result of a study is the selection of test persons. There are also negative examples such as testing anti-ageing creams on the skin of 20 year old test persons or testing moisturisers on a sufficiently hydrated skin. Product comparisons, among others, then show a low efficiency of preparations.

STUDY RELEVANCE It is no use going as far as to comment on every study with the well-known academic annotation: ‘Don’t believe in studies that you didn’t falsify yourself ’! Nevertheless, the examples mentioned above show that the available studies and reports should not induce people to ignore their own common sense. Furthermore, it can be interesting to know whoever ordered the study. Meanwhile, many publications either conclude with annotations of the authors excluding such kind of cross-linkage or alternatively with disclosures. Marie von Ebner-Eschenbach coined the following key phrase that also applies to the subject studies: “He who doesn’t know a thing has to believe everything.” n Dr Lautenschläger is an innovator in the field of lipid metabolism disorders, inflammation and circulatory skin conditions. Having published over 200 publications, he is internationally renowned and a world-class leader in cosmetic development and Corneotherapy. www.dermaviduals.com.au

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MAKEUP Modelrock Rock Chic Eye Shadow Palette Vol 1 Modelrock 0414 864 186

Kat Von D Lolita Eyeshadow Palette Kat Von D 0011 1844 500 5832

Youngblood Full Volume Mascara - Professional Beauty Solutions 1800 625 387

The Quick Flick To The Point wholesale@thequickflick.com.au Curtis Collection Flat Top Foundation Brush Curtis Collection 03 9421 5577

Simga Beauty 3DHD Max Kabuki Brush www.sigmabeauty.com

Mj Cosmetics Camera Ready Primer Mj Cosmetics 0447 396 361

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Charlotte Tilbury Supermodel Lipstick Charlotte Tilbury 0011 44 1202 629 527

Zuii Organic Lux Lipstick in Pout Zuii Organic 07 55 962 319


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Glam IT UP Amp up your client’s eye game with these makeup essentials

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MAKEUP

Gorgeous Cosmetics Smokey Eyes Hollywood Palette – Gorgeous Cosmetics 1300 730 277 Jane Iredale Purple Rain Eyeshadow Kit – Margifox Distributors 1300 850 008 Youngblood Enchanted Eyeshadow Palette – Professional Beauty Solutions 1800 625 387 Marc Jacobs Highliner in Midnight In Paris and Blacquer – Kendo Reception@KendoBrands.com Profusion Pro Eyes Kit 32pc – Chemcorp 02 9526 0777 Zoeva Heritage Eyeshadow – Zoeva service@zoeva.de Genie Beauty Superglide Waterproof Gel Eyeliner Black – Genie Beauty 1800 860 513 Makeup Studio Professional Box Small Type B – Makeup Studio Professional 08 8293 1616 Dermaviduals Liner 1 – Dermaviduals 02 9960 1300 SLA Paris How To Palette – Encore Beauty 1300 770 428 Zuii Organic Flora Volume Mascara in Granite and Lapis – Zuii Organic 07 5596 2319 Victoria Curtis Soft Nude Palette – Curtis Collection 03 9421 5577 Charlotte Tilbury Eyes to Mesmerise in Jean – Charlotte Tilbury 0011 44 1202 629527 Elizabeth Arden Eyeshadow Trio Smokey Nights – Elizabeth Arden 02 8875 9700

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TANNING

Tanning What’s new in the world of tanning

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TANNING

Summer Kiss Ultra-Dark Bronzing Mousse - Artav Australia 08 8300 1999 MoroccanTan Limited Edition Tanners Choice Trio - MoroccanTan 1300 181 281

Bondi Sands Coconut & Sea Salt Body Scrub Bondi Sands 1300 961 385 Sunescape Gradual Tan Extender Professional Beauty Solutions 1800 625 387

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Make a statement with these bold, bright colours

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NAILS

Bio Sculpture Gel Nail Polish in Jinkie Pink – Bio Sculpture 1300 246 435 Issada Nail Polish in Summer and Heidi – Issada 07 3904 2288 Essence Glitter Bubblegum Beauty – Bio Sculpture 1300 246 435 Orly Lacquer Glowstick – Hawley International 02 8667 1700 Hawley Manicure Colour 312 – Hawley International 02 8667 1700 SLA Paris Nail Polish in 25090 and 25091 – Encore Beauty 1300 770 428 Artistic Nail Design Let’s Get Electric and Colortopia – Switch Funky 1800 700 510 Faby Nail Lacquer in Parking Violation – International Beauty Supplies 03 9486 3211 OPI Nail Lacquer No Turning Back From Pink Street – International Beauty Supplies 03 9486 3211 Miss Frankie 5 Free Nail Polish in Did You Say Proscecco and One Night Stand – Miss Frankie hello@missfrankie.com.au

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NAILS BioSculpture Ethos Kiwi Scrub - Bio Beauty Concepts 1300 246 435

EVO Oxygenating Gel Elsie - Bio Beauty Concepts 1300 246 435

Tropical Shine Professional Nail Files Dateline Imports 02 9666 3611

Miss Frankie 5 Free Breathable Nail Polish Weekend Affair hello@missfrankie.com.au Mavala Nail Color Pearl in Santiago Mavala 03 9645 1933

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CND Vinylux Brazen Pacific Nail & Beauty 07 5597 4555


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BEAUTY

The Brooklyn

EFFECT

What better way to attract beauty clients than to launch a bespoke concept that combines luxurious treatments with a bar serving cocktails? Owner Brooke Jesberg reveals the inspiration behind her booming Brisbane based business. Tell us where you found the inspiration to set up the Brooklyn Bar? “It was our shopfitter who came up with the idea to turn our salon into a bar. He mainly builds bars and restaurants and when he finished the salon he said: “this would be a great bar”. So we did it.”

Why did you choose Brisbane as a location for this concept? “Because it’s the best city in Australia!!!! And that where my clientele was located.”

What was one of the most challenging parts of setting up the salon? “Establishing the systems for the bar. If we couldn’t deliver that service as good as the beauty then there was no point in doing it.”

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What is your most popular treatment? “Brows and lash extensions.”

Who is your clientele? “A time-poor, professional woman looking for a pamper and a relax.”

When it comes to interiors how did you go about choosing the right vibe for your salon? “I love decor from 1940’s New York.”

Do you have any advice for beauty salon owners trying to carve a niche in the industry? “Your niche has to match the quality of your beauty. If you can’t do that, then it just won’t work.”

Do you have plans to expand the salon concept? “Yes, we do have some plans for Sydney Melbourne. So watch this space.”


The secret to perfect skin. THE VIBE:

1940s New York bar

SPECIALITIES:

Brow sculpting, lash extensions, facials, manicure/ pedicure, spray tans, makeup application, blow dry

WOW FACTOR:

Caters for girl’s birthdays and hen parties with a private room

B E FO R E

Serves up more than 50 types of Gin, 10 varieties of French champagne and bespoke cocktails.

BRANDS STOCKED:

Dr Spiller, Becca, St Tropez, CND, OPI, Vani-T, Bite.

A F T E R A CO U R S E O F T R E AT M E N T S

• Australian cosmeceutical range • Results driven skincare • Select 7 Skin Peel System • Great price point and markup • Easy to use and recommend for retail • Annual marketing planner in place • UltraRewards - Client Loyalty Program

Tell us a little about your own beauty background? “I have been in the beauty industry for 18 years and offer one of Australia’s brow threading training.”

What is your favourite treatment? “Brow Treatments.” n

• Staff skincare rewards • Flexible Opening Orders • Regular Salon Training • Momentum - Annual Salon Partner Conference

VISIT OUR STAND C114 AT BEAUTY MELBOURNE

1300 660 297 ultraderm.com.au


MASTERCLASS

Photographer: Mauro Palmieri Hair and Make up: Sophie Knox & Nathalie Prince Secondary MUA : Neha Hobson Campaign Talent: Jasmine Evans

UNIFORM Looking to set the stylish tone for your salon? It’s all about presentation. Leesa Dawson reveals the inspiration behind her launch range for The Uniform Stylist.

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Style


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Leesa Dawson CEO from The Uniform Stylist shares her journey from developing the initial concept that prompted her to launch her new uniform business and the inspirational women who have collaborated and educated her about the needs of the beauty industry along the way. Here’s why she’s chosen some of these incredible beauty professionals to showcase this collection.

GRY TØMTE, Founder/Owner HÜD SKIN + BODY “I’ve known Gry for a few years, as we worked together in the past – creating uniforms for her multi award winning skin clinic in St Kilda. Having the privilege to work with someone as passionate as Gry gave me invaluable insight into just how important it is to have uniforms that are in line with your brand image. The Hüd aesthetic is articulated so clearly in every detail, and yet finding that perfect uniform readily available was nearly impossible. I remember Gry had researched suppliers all over the world! Nothing is compromised at Hüd. You can see that in all 3 levels of Gry’s Nordic style clinic, as well as the exceptional staff that make up her team. In the time we spent collaborating on uniform designs, a huge gap in the market was exposed. There was room for designer style pieces that are functional and suit a modern clinic or salon. I have Gry to thank for inspiring the business idea exactly one year ago.”

SALLY LINDSAY, Owner/ Therapist BALANCED BEAUTY “I was introduced to Sally through a mutual friend who recommended Sally as ‘a true beauty expert as she’ll give you honest feedback’ . It was important to get this information from the beginning from a variety of salons, and therapists, so after watching several of Sally’s You Tube videos and social media posts, I thought she seemed like someone sincere, someone that I could trust. She only promotes what she believes in, and I love the value she offers her followers with her genuine beauty product reviews. Sally has a big, generous heart and importantly, helps support other beauty professionals just like her. Owner /operators, who want to not only look good at work in their own salon (which is often in their home) but also impress their clients by wearing a beautiful uniform every day. I have Sally to thank for many hours reviewing my sketches and samples and testing them from the beginning.”

TAMARA SHAW, Founding Director BEAUTE INDUSTRIE & BEAUTY EVENTS HUB “Tamara and I connected through Instagram as we started our business journey (from an online point of view) at a similar time. Coming across the BI platform was like gold, I was able to listen to podcasts from industry experts – and connect with like minded souls in the beauty industry all in one place. As a member, we’re able to celebrate the milestones of each other’s businesses, be educated about industry trends and share business tips with other business owners. Tamara, an expert professional in the skin industry herself, is passionately dedicated to supporting the BI community. I don’t know how she does it! It’s here that I first learned what #collaborationovercompetition really means, and what that trending hashtag looks like in real terms. Tamara has formed genuine connections with her followers and members, and if you’re part of her network, she really does have your back.”

NAOMI GREGORY, Founder/ Director SPA SESSIONS CONSULTING “Naomi and I also met through Instagram last year. We immediately discovered our mutual devotion for providing a 5-star product and service for our clients. For Naomi, that’s everything associated with luxury spa and wellness design and operation from concept, design brief, feasibility through to staff training and selection, equipment and product procurement and operational readiness. She maintains personal involvement in her client’s spas with all services provided by herself and her two team members, Carla and Holly who together work tirelessly to ensure every detail is on point for launch. Naomi’s spa consulting business isn’t new, she’s been independently consulting since 2005 to elite Hotel and Resorts in Australia and the Asia Pacific region. As well as creating new brands Naomi also has management contracts with some of the regions finest. I find her a true inspiration in this business.”

NEHA HOBSON, Beauty blogger, Influencer and Coach BEAUTY BY NEHA “We met at a Beauté Industrie event last year, and bonded over our passion for the promotion of ethical products in the beauty space. I spent a bit of time getting to know Neha’s Beauty By Neha business, as I often get asked about social media coaches and PR support for beauty businesses when chatting to my clients. I want to be able to recommend the best! In a way what we offer goes hand in hand – we’re both passionate about how we can help elevate a brand’s image in order to help that business grow. Neha uses her platform and voice in a way that I don’t see from many other influencers. She’s on a mission to redefine beauty and empower women through her brand. She also genuinely supports her clients and the cruelty-free brands that she works with 150% through her collaborations and in-depth product reviews.  It has been great to have her support and positive energy.”

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STYLE FILE

GINA BROOKE Her makeup artist skills are world renowned. In 2004 she worked her magic with Madonna creating looks for her Re-Invention Tour which then led to her creating custom lashes and the rest is history – now Brooke is channeling her expertise into collaborations with international beauty brands as a Global Beauty Consultant and is the Global Brand Ambassador for Intraceuticals. She chats to Anita Quade about creating individuality through makeup.

THE BEAUTY BUSINESS: “I was studying Fashion Design at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City and a model asked me to do her makeup for a spec editorial photo shoot and the photos were chosen in a magazine.. the rest is history.”

PET PEEVES: “The media’s false message of the “perfect image,” leading teenagers to believe that the only solution to selfesteem and confidence is to physically correct or enhance what they dislike about themselves rather than embrace their best attributes and individuality.”

BEAUTY TIP: “Intraceuticals Daily Serum is my go-to product which I mix with concealer and foundation for all my clients.”

GETTING SOCIAL: “Social media is the ultimate platform which provides each and every one of us a voice.”

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BEAUTY PHILOSOPHY: “Beautiful makeup begins with the skin.”

CAN’T LIVE WITHOUT: “Mascara, concealer and lipstick!”

CAREER PINCH-ME MOMENT: “When I revolutionised the false lash industry -I opened lash bars worldwide and at the risk of sounding outlandish, I created a collection of the world’s most expensive lashes, which sold at $10,000 a pair.

PERSONAL MANTRA: “Anything is possible.”

MY SIGNATURE STYLE: “I prefer looks that are timeless rather than trendy – such as beautiful flawless skin, lashes and a bold lip!”

MY FAVOURITE THING: “What I love most about the beauty industry is the ability to express ones individuality through makeup. I truly love to encourage and empower women and of course, men too- I find it extremely gratifying to help others recognise their best attributes whether it’s their eyes, lips, skin by enhancing their best feature.”

ICONIC INSPIRATION: “My mother was and will always be my icon. She was a compassionate beautiful woman who wore her makeup to perfection!”

CELEBRITY CRUSHES: “Cate Blanchett, Zoe Kravitz and Sia.”


TALKING POINT

VIVE LA BEAUTÉ France is famous for its quality skincare solutions. French beauty salon professionals reveal the lure of their luxury formulations and advanced technology.

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OVER 50 YEARS OF

MARINE INTELLIGENCE Since 1964, Thalgo has been inspired by the ocean to constantly research new ways to harness the power of active, intelligent marine ingredients to create highly effective skin care. Micronutrients from patented marine algae extracts are assimilated at a cellular level due to their biosimilarity to human tissues. The results are transformative, truly capturing the regenerative power of the ocean. Today, Thalgo is the trusted global leader in customer experience through expert delivery of high performance facial techniques and sensorial spa rituals delivering immediate, visible results. The diverse range offers highly customisable menu design options that can be tailored to the needs of specialist facial salons, day spas, destination spas and also as a compliment to a high performance cosmeceutical range. Contact us today for a complementary in-salon treatment experience and menu design consultation.

Exclusively distributed by BLC Cosmetics. To register your interest please contact us on customerservice@blccosmetics.com or +61 2 9430 2200.


TALKING POINT

THALGO

literally only just scratched the surface…. but Thalgo’s already way ahead of the game.”

Core Philosophy

What are some of the latest ingredient developments in your range? “Thalgo’s R&D team has a number of concurrent studies on marine ingredients with the most important one on the adaptation and sustainability of marine microalgae. The research is finding out two things: how these different species respond to environmental stresses of pressure, UV and temperature and also how to create self-sustaining colonies that not only give back to the environment, but are a consistent ingredient source. The initial results are quite remarkable and are informing the development path for an exciting new facial skin care line due to launch globally in 2021.”

Traditionally French skincare has been known for its timeless indulgent luxury – how has your brand kept ahead of the market trends now skincare is very results driven? “French skincare has always embodied luxe life with exquisite textures, sophisticated fragrances and elegant, insta-worthy presentation. But all of this makes for a vacuous consumer experience if the goop doesn’t deliver the goods. Seeing truly is believing, but believing comes as much from innovation and newness as it does from consistency and reliable proof from years of research and development.

“For over 50 years, Thalgo’s core philosophy has been about capturing marine intelligence from the source. Over this time, Thalgo’s R&D team together with global universities and scientific institutions have built an impressive knowledge bank by studying over 63 different forms of marine algae that have adapted to living in extreme conditions including at hydrothermal vents which connect directly to the earth’s core. The extracts from these algae (many of them now patented by Thalgo) are extremely high in micronutrients which can be assimilated at a deep cellular level since they’re biosimilar to human tissue. Combining the resilience and potency of algae extracts with the transdermal application of vital minerals means it’s easy for Thalgo to demonstrate results scientifically. But back to the point about seeing is believing, all performance products are supported by both consumer perception and physiological dermal studies.”

Ocean Lab

“The ocean is Thalgo’s very own lab. It’s also humanities greatest natural resource and the origin of all life – including our clever little algae! And when you think that over 80% of the ocean floors are yet to be explored, the world of marine intelligence has

Latest Innovation

“The Exception Marine range launched late last year and contains the Marine Replenishment Complex which is the active force in this advanced anti-ageing range. The range is designed to address advanced skin ageing including skin slackening and density loss is caused by the physiological ageing process of a cell and the slowing of its metabolism. The ageing process impacts the cell’s ability to produce supporting fibres and also to expand and contract in response to the environment. The ingredient studies started in 2002 and in 2013, Thalgo patented a fusion of two natural microalgae hormones called phytohormones. These hormones mobilise the cells and reset the contractile forces (that’s skin elasticity to you and me!). The cool part is that further research found adding Native Edelweiss stem cells to the phytohormones delivered an astounding 190% increase the in the cell reactions and also stimulated the cell to rebuild when exposed to environmental aggressors.”  Nikki Somerset CEO, BLC Cosmetics www.blccosmetics.com

SALON INSIGHTS How much is the Made In France label worth to your salon? “For me professional salon only French skincare has always been a part of my beauty therapy career, even when I was completing my diploma in 1985.  I have been lucky enough to visit Paris and Villa Thalgo several times and I truly get more inspired every time I experience and immerse myself within the French beauty culture! Thalgo has been enjoyed within the Stephanie’s spa family for the last 22 years. One of our Thalgo tops picks that our clients experience at Stephanie’s Luxury Spas is the Anti-Age Intensive Hyaluronic treatment, our therapists and clients love seeing and feeling immediate results!  We love providing personised treatments and educating our clients to committed quality skincare routines at home and advanced in spa treatments. Including a variety of Thalgo rituals or series skincare programs of advanced technology’s mixed with results driven Lightstim LED, Thalgo Skin expert microdermabrasion and Ibeauty.  I feel the skincare industry trend is moving towards a more concentrated simpler and healing approach internally and externally. Clients today have tried a multitude of invasive procedures and applications and are now combining both areas and are looking for a more natural result, healthy skin whilst supporting their wellness needs and relaxation.” Stephanie’s Spas Stephanie Shepherd, CEO & Founder Stephanie’s Luxury Spas www.stephanies.com.au

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TALKING POINT

The concepts of beauty we follow in Australia are modelled on American imagery, mostly extreme in accentuated perceptions of what beauty values are. Excessively worked-over ‘celebrities’ have become role models for women’s grooming in Australia.  The search for extreme skincare as a ‘quick-fix’ has changed women’s choices.  The era of Clinical Skincare cosmetics has evolved to meet the demand for instant results.”  

French Research Facilities

SOTHYS

Traditionally French skincare has been known for its timeless indulgent luxury – how has your brand kept ahead of the market trends now skincare is very results driven? “There isn’t a woman that doesn’t desire to spend time in Paris – visiting Paris is usually on top of their wish list at some point in their lives. And, not coincidently, the understated glamour and sophistication of elegant Parisienne women is what inspires women of all ages to emulate in their own lives ... their secret desire ... their personal aspiration.” 

French Grooming

“France has a deep history of personal grooming and has made beauty culture an art form. French cosmetics houses have dominated the upper echelon of the world’s cosmetic industry for over a century with sophisticated formulations still unrealised in other countries cosmetic manufacturing standards. Sophisticated women and sophisticated cosmetics are synonymous in France.  It’s a thread in every French woman’s life ... personal care from early adolescence through every phase of womanhood with a lifetime’s care supporting their elegance as they gracefully enter into old age.  Sothys call it the “thread of life” ... Le Fil de Vie.  It works very well.” 

Skincare Routines

“In young countries, such as Australia, New Zealand and the USA, in the majority, there isn’t an established culture for women’s lifelong personal grooming, particularly in the daily protection (against sun damage) and with a decade or two of neglect, by the time many Australian women reach middle age they are increasingly horrified at their accelerated skin ageing... and then panic.

“Sothys France, has invested heavily in establishing its own fully operational botanical and biological scientific research facilities in search of clinical/pharmaceutical level ‘cosmetic category’ formulations. Ten percent of its turnover goes towards its scientific research program – with over 30 scientists in their team. It is the only professional cosmetic company with its own “original molecular research” facility in the field of Green Science in France.  Biologically active enzymes, new generation peptides, sophisticated proteins and new botanical molecules have been isolated, patented, and passed onto Sothys “Applied Science laboratory” for final formulation development.  All this to ensure that Sothys is in continual evolution and at the very forefront of clinical cosmetic development. This is serious clinical skincare well and truly beyond the recent perceptions of French brands as ‘fluffy’ or ‘indulgent luxury’ .... a concept promoted by those with commercial interest to do so.” 

First Lady Gifting

“In the US, too, Sothys is the secret of women who know. When French President Hollande first visited US President Obama, the official gift to Michelle Obama was a bag of Sothys skincare.   Ivanka Trump’s Spa in New York uses Sothys exclusively. French skincare is still supreme amongst those who recognise and value quality and sophistication.  When it comes to differentiating between the thousands of new cosmetics on the market “made in France” is still the metaphor for quality and sophistication ... and Sothys is its gold standard.”  SOTHYS Jeffrey Daley, Managing Director and Australian Agent for Sothys www.sothys.com

SALON INSIGHTS What is the most requested French treatment? “The most requested French treatment at Natskin would be a Classic Facial. Clients see this facial treatment as a timeless classic, the techniques employed are traditional with exceptional quality products with expert skills needed to obtain the desired outcome for our clients skin. Clients trust Sothys. French skincare is the benchmark in beauty and skincare products and treatments. Sothys skincare gives us the results in a treatment to meet or exceed the client’s expectations. Sothys gives us the ability to customise for different skin types, concerns and dysfunctions. For over 30 years our clients have loved the evolution of the brand and stayed loyal to our business & Sothys because of its reputation and ethics, they trust and believe they are looking after their skin to the highest level and know that we can address their ever-changing skin with a results driven treatment.” NATSKIN SPA RETREAT Natalie Ashton, Director www.natskin.com

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TALKING POINT

PAYOT

Traditionally French skincare has been known for its timeless indulgent luxury – how has your brand kept ahead of the market trends now skincare is very results driven? “Creative sharing and co-creation are probably our secret ingredients! Our in-house laboratory is fully integrated within the marketing and business teams, which allow fast communication and a unique richness in the conceptualisation and development of a product. In addition PAYOT has a consumer-centric vision, we do not hesitate to put our consumers at the heart of the development and to solicit them to become key partners in the creation of a product.  This co-creation process keeps us ahead of the market trends and gives us exceptional results. An example of this co-creation was the launch of Gelée Nettoyante in our PATE GRISE line, with both formula and packaging been selected by consumers via social media platforms.”  What are some of the latest ingredient developments in your range? “The importance of taking care of skin flora and its balance is one of our latest innovations. We recently launched two new products within our iconic CREME N°2 line in which we included Probiotics and Prebiotics to protect and rebalance beneficial bacteria already presents on the skin’s surface. By protecting the microbiome we are strengthening the skin’s barrier function and helping it to fight against external aggressions. It is the perfect answer to rescue the most sensitive skin with antistress and anti-redness benefits.”  PAYOT Marie-Laure Simonin Braun, President www.payot.com

SALON INSIGHTS What is the lure of French treatments and products? “Our salons amongst other treatments specialise in Payot French traditional facials with the most requested being our Institute facials. The French are masters at creating excellence, be it fashion, food, wine or cosmetics. That’s why we have chosen Payot for its commitment to using medical, scientific and herbal expertise for over 100 years.  We believe that our Institute facials offer guests the best outcomes with traditional techniques, lots of massage throughout the treatment as well as superior Payot technology and results. After all Nadia Payot did create the facial massage as we know and use to today. Utilising patented technology, trace minerals, plant & herb extracts we can deliver results to any skin condition so that when the clients look at their skin they can see and feel the visible difference. What better way for clients to experience hands on relaxation combined with ingredients that deliver ingredients deep into the skin and proven results.” Beautique Skin & Beauty Beverly Bowman & Rosemaree Jones, Owners www.beautique.com.au

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The reasons SOTHYS should be the partner you choose for your business…

STABILITY Sothys is a French, family owned enterprise operating for over 70 years, with the same distribution agent in Australia for nearly 40 years. INNOVATION With a team of over 30 Bio-Chemists and Scientists, collaborating with practising Professional Skin Therapists, the R&D lab SOREDEC of the Sothys Group really is the golden asset of the brand. It’s the only lab of its kind in France where original molecular formulations are created using Green Science principles. So when you use Sothys you know you are using innovative and original Botanical formulas and not generic, mass market products. Sothys is unique. WORLDWIDE REPUTATION FOR QUALITY AND RESULTS Sothys has an impeccable reputation for quality and results throughout 120 countries worldwide, in over 20,000 institutes & spas, exclusively. COMPLETE RANGE Sothys has all your of skincare expectations covered, with a retail range for every possible skin concern, a necessity for a successful business. Sothys is the most complete skincare range from the most sophisticated cosmetics market in the world. •Clinical/Cosmeceutical •Specialised daily skincare •Anti-Ageing •Signature Spa Rituals •Mens range •Complete makeup range.

OPPORTUNITIES FOR NEW ACCOUNTS NOW AVAILABLE

PROFESSIONAL TREATMENTS Sothys has a range of Signature Intensive Treatments that are entirely unique within the professional skincare industry.

ph: 1800 816 599

WITHOUT CRUELTY

WITHOUT ANIMAL

RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT

CHARTER OF ETHICS

CERTIFIED EXCELLENCE

RECYCLING ECO CHARTER

ENVIRONMENTAL MANAGEMENT

GREEN SCIENCE

ORGANIC GARDEN


TALKING POINT

GUINOT

Traditionally French skincare has been known for its timeless indulgent luxury – how has your brand kept ahead of the market trends now skincare is very results driven? “GUINOT became a leading brand by focusing on how to reveal the beauty of every woman using innovative skin care methods with the latest industry technology advancements. Over the years, the effectiveness of its treatments and products have made GUINOT stand out as the leading brand within the beauty industry. In 1972, GUINOT offered the first exclusive beauty treatment method for skincare, using an ionisation process that improves the penetration of skincare products. This device was called the Hydradermie.

In 2005, GUINOT revolutionised slimming treatments in beauty salons with the development of the TechniSpa Connected Sculpting machine. Thanks to its patented ‘double knead and roll’ process, GUINOT offers the means to provide exceptional results from the very first session. In 2016, GUINOT launched Hydradermie Youth, a personalised rejuvenating treatment and a viable alternative to aesthetic medicine. The 56 Cellular Ingredients of the Cellular Life Complex, was created by GUINOT scientists. These biological ingredients are used in hospitals to create new skin, especially in the treatment of serious burn victims. Enriched with the Cellular Life Complex, Age Logic owes its exceptional cell renewal activity to ATP, a biological energy molecule capable of boosting skin cells that have become dormant over time.

SALON INSIGHT What beauty trends do you forsee? “I have had salons for nearly 30 years now and have noticed a real shift in what my clients need. Clients have moved away from thinking of a facial as an occasional birthday treat or pampering service. People are recognising skin care as an investment that offers greater results in less time. Regular treatments have become an essential part of their routine. However, everybody has less free time these days, so I see a strong trend towards shorter treatments at a higher frequency. My clients used to book a facial every 4-6 weeks. Now I am seeing my clients every 3-4 weeks.   Today we can make real changes with focussed treatments. My core business is facials, and for that the latest technology and TGA approved machinery are key. Clients are recognising the value of high quality French products for home use. They are buying high-end creams because they have seen the results and they view them as a vital part of their daily routine.   Advances in technology and products allow us to make real changes without having to undergo invasive procedures. We are now able to offer personalised plans tailored to every skin care need. This is how we meet the demands of our clients.” Le Salon Hunter’s Hill Judith Lennan, owner www.lesalonhuntershill.com.au

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GUINOT research is constantly pushing the limits of effectiveness and performance to improve and find new treatment techniques and methods to ensuring they remain in forefront of industry trends and scientific advancements.” What are some of the latest ingredient developments in your range? “GUINOT formulates its skincare products with the best active ingredients at optimum concentrations. To ensure safety, GUINOT formulates and manufactures its treatment products in compliance with pharmaceutical standards of precision. The GUINOT laboratory possesses a double ISO 22716 and ISO 14001 certification, two important international standards in the cosmetic industry plus one of the highest cosmetic certifications including FDA approved. ISO 22716 attests to the high quality of manufacturing methods: clean rooms with purified air, water that is purified, deionised and monitored, and product traceability. ISO 14001 certifies the environmental quality of the laboratories. In order to monitor the effectiveness of its treatment methods and products, GUINOT has recreated a pilot beauty salon in its research and development centre. This enables us to constantly assess new active ingredients resulting from recent scientific breakthroughs and to improve formulas in an effort to increase their effectiveness. In recent years, GUINOT has developed new products within the Summum Collection that are necessary to stimulate the skin with powerful active ingredients following the most current trend of anti-aging within the beauty industry.. With age, the skin loses firmness, LIFT SUMMUM’s key ingredient Longevitine restores the firmness of the skin by redensifying it from the inside, helping to recreate elastin fibres and promote a qualitative mesh of elastine fibres Water is an essential element for cell life, HYDRA SUMMUM restores hydration levels of more youthful skin by boosting the skin’s mechanisms for biological hydration. The key ingredient Hydralogic Complex uses hydration to offset the effects of ageing forming a barrier to limit imperceptible water loss, Increase the skin’s capacity to store water in cells and improves water distribution from the dermis to the epidermis. Slowing of the immune system is one of the main causes of skin ageing. THE AGE SUMMUM’s key ingredient Vitamin C fights against free radicals and helps prevent dark spots from appearing. While acting as a global solution for wrinkles and lines, this synergy also reduces dark spots, giving the skin a smoother, more even and more radiant appearance. With new age formulas, GUINOT is more and more in the forefront of consumer skincare desires by offering anti—aging skincare ingredients as an alternative to cosmetic surgery.” GUINOT SKINCARE AUSTRALIA Anouk Thebault, Managing Director www.guinot.com.au


TALKING POINT

VICTORIA’S ESSENTIALS CLINICAL SKIN SOLUTIONS

Is the Made in France equipment still a major drawcard for salons? “It is important to understand that there are leaders and followers in the beauty industry. The French, in particular EFB Beauté, are not only leaders, but the pioneers in Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) technology. Our Adena, Ariane and Anthelia machines are manufactured to the highest European standards in France at an affordable price. Most salon owners are aware that French manufactured machines are superior to others and if they purchase based on price alone, they will be disappointed down the track. EFB started as an engineering company working with NASA, Aircraft and Advanced Technologies using IPL Technology in the Aerospace Industry. They found that IPL had additional applications within the beauty industry after Scientists and Engineers explored the effects on hair, vascular conditions and pigmentation. Now, 18 Patents later, EFB offer IPL machines Worldwide with no equal in the Marketplace.” What is France renowned for in its beauty technology? “The French lead the world in advanced technologies and in aesthetic beauty, so it’s only natural for a them to combine the two! In a marketplace dominated by Asian imitations, it is more important than ever to educate operators about the importance of quality and safety. EFB Beauté is not only a pioneer in advanced IPL technology but the ONLY company to hold over 18 patents relating to IPL. The French have taken this further and developed IPL technology into new frontiers including effective treatments on extremely dark skin, White Hair (Blonde, Red and Grey included), rapid IPL treatments (3 shots Per Second), remote flash top ups on handsets using phone chips. All this demonstrates French Technology is leading the world in Advanced Aesthetics.

Can you tell us about a couple of the latest developments in your technology? The product range developed by EFB Beauté utilise the most sophisticated IPL technology in the marketplace today. Some of the latest developments are:• We hold the only Patents (1 of 18), for the reduction of White, Blonde, Grey and Red Hair. This is the most effective method on the market as well as a new profit stream for Salons. • All 3 IPL models are fitted with our Patented GSM technology. This is imbedded in the handsets and allows operators to avoid the cost and time replacing expired handsets (up to $12,000 each). When the flashes are running low, the Salon let’s us know and we add the flashes remotely. Moments later the handset has increased flashed. This is an industry first and ensures no Salon downtime. • Our Patented Absorption Filter Handsets (HR and SR) differ from other IPL solutions, as Reflective Filters are commonly used.  Absorption Filters ensure a more consistent power delivery and deeper penetration of light into the skin than the less expensive reflection filters, giving a better result. Victoria’s Essentials Clinical Skin Solutions Jeffrey Slater, IPL Marketing Director www.ipl-by-ve.com.au

SALON INSIGHT What is the value in French equipment? “It is so important in todays’ competitive aesthetic world to have equipment that you can trust, endorse your professionalism, and never lose valuable time and money from your business because your IPL is out of action! I discovered efb Beaute Paris SQP IPL 7 years ago, this easy to use medical grade machine has never disappointed me and I am continually excited to see the immediate results. The Made in France label started for me 30 years ago, training with a French brand. Today I have one of the top French brands skin care range in my salon, so along with the Adena I’m hooked on the French brand!” Masque Beauty Carol Cheste, Owner www.masquebeautysalon.com.au

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Moving to Timely was the best thing I ever did I’m the least tech person ever, I basically hate computers. But moving to Timely was the best thing I ever did. I love that if I get stuck, I know their Support team are just a phone call or email away. All you have to do is say yes. — Jazz Pampling, Brow Artist

Say yes, and we’ll take care of the rest. Talk to us on (03) 8518 4957, or visit gettimely.com to get started.


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Sothys Reconstructive Youth Serum - Sothys 02 9477 7844

EFB Anthelia Medical Grade IPL Solution Victoria’s Essentials Clinical Skin Solutions 1300 88 78 24

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REAL LIFE

THE BELLE OF

Beauty CEO of Liberty Belle Skin Centre Andrea Moss reveals the inspiration behind the new skincare range co-founded with her husband world renowned plastic surgeon Dr Chris Moss. You have a well-known Melbourne based skincare clinic that is the go-to for the who is who – tell us what inspired you to launch your new skincare range Liberty Belle Rx? “Every single LBRx product has really been carefully thought out over many years to deliver the needed benefits that we wanted to provide our patients. Each product works to deliver results. It’s a unique range that provides all the solutions that our clients need from a skincare maintenance regime.”

How does the skincare line complement the clinic? “Skin care is a very important part of the 360⁰ care we provide our clients. With Dr Chris being a Plastic Surgeon who specialises in facelift surgery and non-surgical rejuvenation through Liberty Belle Skin Centre, a skincare range was the next obvious step for us in providing a holistic approach to antiageing and skin maintenance care of the highest standards. Dr Chris has always been meticulous and uncompromising in everything he does. So we needed to also provide our patients the highest quality products for their home skincare regime as part of their overall management – products that are safe, effective and give real results. The skincare range was originally only intended for our patients. However, inspired by the remarkable results, I convinced Dr Chris to create a complete standalone range and make it available to the public.”

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tone and well hydrated. For that to happen there were some non-negotiables. Firstly, the range had to be customisable to suit all skin types, ages and genders. And it had to be honest and transparent – it was really important to us that the patented active ingredients be added at the required concentrations shown in studies to deliver the stated benefits for the skin. We wanted to offer a thoughtfully integrated range of products that work together and complement each other for complete skincare solutions – and that’s why we launched with 14 quality products.”

The products are made in Australia – how important was it for you to have a home-grown range? “Producing in Australia gives us control and reliability for the highest safety and quality. We are so lucky to have such high standards in Australia so it was an obvious choice for us to produce our range here. Not only can we trust everything that we’ve put into the products, but we are also supporting other Australian businesses which is hugely important for us too.”

What challenges did you come across producing products here in Australia? “Australia is an excellent place to produce and we have a choice of state-of-theart resources from all around the world. Australia has stringent quality controls in this field which is great and means our clients can have peace of mind.”

What were some of your major goals in launching the range?

Were you heavily involved in each step of the development process?

“We wanted to create the most effective resultsdriven range possible – one that we could confidently stand behind as equal to the best available. The LBRx range was designed to help patients create and maintain healthy and beautiful skin for life – skin that is smooth, firm, even in

“Dr Chris was involved in all stages of the development process – from the design and development, through formulation and testing – even to packaging selection, he is most passionate about the science behind the actives and ingredients and naturally became most involved in this process. Being a Plastic Surgeon who specialises in the face, he is intricately involved in identifying and providing the most effective skin care technologies for the enhancement and

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rejuvenation of the skin. He understands the science of leading-edge skincare actives and how they can all work together to make real differences in the quality, health and resilience of the skin. Having practiced in skin care for 20 years and continually keeping up to date with the best that modern science has to offer, we are fortunate to be in a position to hand-pick the best skincare technology and ingredients available globally for our formulations.”

What was your involvement in the launch of the range? “While I was also across all stages of the project, I was particularly involved in the consumer experience: from ensuring the products applied well, felt luxurious and looked great under makeup (didn’t ball!), to making sure we had products suited to all skin types and concerns – I really wanted a comprehensive range. I also was adamant on creating personalities for all the products through engaging names. So many consumers self-shop now so I really wanted to make the process easier and more fun. Keeping out certain ingredients was just as important as what we added in – we made sure to keep the range free from parabens, synthetic fragrances, sulphates and artificial colours. It is also not tested on animals and all products except the two retinol products and sunscreen are vegan friendly.”

How difficult was it to go from business manager and for Dr Chris as a Plastic Surgeon to skincare creators? “Dr Chris is a Plastic Surgeon and this is his main focus and passion. Facial rejuvenation surgery, particularly facelift and neck lift surgery, is really what

WE WANTED TO CREATE THE MOST EFFECTIVE RESULTS DRIVEN RANGE POSSIBLE - ONE THAT WE COULD CONFIDENTLY STAND BEHIND AS EQUAL TO THE BEST AVAILABLE. makes him most excited. But also creating a skincare range was not so difficult for him as he knows skin and has many years of experience working as a specialist in this field.”

What are your strengths? “I am entrepreneurial at heart and have always been passionate about helping with skin health and skincare, so for me stepping into this skincare co-creator role was very natural. We are lucky enough to be surrounded with an amazing team of intelligent, hard-working and trustworthy people who could help us create this range. It was really important for us to have the support of our team of Doctors, Nurses and Dermal Clinicians from Liberty Belle Skin." n


EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW

Charlotte’s

MAKEUP WEB Charlotte Tilbury is the name on everyone’s lips from Victoria Beckham, Amal Clooney to Gwyneth Paltrow, her neutral eyeshadow palette attracted a waiting list of 30,000 and her Pillow Talk lipliner sells globally every six seconds. She chats to Anita Quade about launching her signature line and the power of the pout.

THIS FLAME-HAIRED ENGLISH makeup artist is synonymous with stars from royalty to reality stars – who became fans of her makeup artistry on the catwalks and in glossy magazines before becoming dedicated devotees of her eponymous beauty line born out of her 25 year career in the industry, where she gave a glow to some of the world’s most well known faces including Kate Moss and Gisele. This 45 year-old understands the power of neutrals and while makeup trends come and go – her loyal fans love the subtlety of her shades such as the soft rose colour palette in one of the world’s best selling lipstick Pillow Talk. As she rolls out luxurious stores in exotic locations including Dubai, and now America – we find out how she went from makeup artist to multi-million dollar buisnesswoman with the flick of a brush.

You have been in the industry more than 25 years. Tell us what you love most about working in beauty? “I love working in this industry because it allows me to spread the powerful, feel good factor of makeup, and make all of my incredible celebrity friends, fans and followers feel like the most beautiful versions of themselves every day! My mantra is ‘Give a woman the right makeup and she can conquer the world!’ It has this incredible power to transform and boost every woman and man’s confidence. I call it the psychology of makeup, if you look good, you feel good, you exude confidence and the world reacts to you in a powerful way.”

Tell us about a moment in your career that totally blew you away? “Every moment in my career has been so magical for me, from starting out in the early ’90s in the iconic supermodel years with Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington, Linda Evangelista and Cindy Crawford to creating cover looks for incredible titles worldwide like Vogue, Vanity Fair and Harper’s Bazaar. Starting trends on the runways of New York, Milan, London and Paris and designing and executing fashion and beauty campaigns for the biggest luxury houses in the world! However, I would say one of the most pivotal, pin-drop moments that really blew me away, in both my life and my career was launching my own brand just five years ago! Since I was a young girl at school and I first discovered the power of makeup. I had dreamt of launching my own limitless makeup revolution. So, when I founded and launched Charlotte Tilbury Beauty in September 2013, an easy-to-choose, easy-to-use, easy-to-understand glamourous world of makeup magic, for everyone, at every age... It was a real dream come true for me! I am so proud of how far the brand has come in the last five years and I cannot wait for even more magic still to come.”

You’ve worked with celebrities including Kate Moss, Nicole Kidman and the list goes on – have you had a favourite model moment? “I have been in this industry for over 25 years, and I’ve been lucky enough to work with countless gorgeous, amazing women and developed so many incredible bonds all around the world. I’ve worked with so many iconic stars, actresses, models, and powerhouses the list is endless and so many of these amazing celebrities inspire me every day. One of my all-time favourite moments

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from my career was creating Kate Moss’ incredible makeup look for Vogue UK’s Castaway shoot in June 2002. It was shot by the amazing duo Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott and it kick-started a new beauty trend for bronzed, beautiful skin! I gave Kate a sun-kissed, radiant look using glowgiving formulas for the ultimate healthy-looking tan. It was all about youthful looking skin, freshfaced freckles and a nude lip. We shot it on the beautiful Manda Bay off the coast of Kenya and I tanned Kate’s body four times darker than her natural skin tone. It was a tanned, glowing, gorgeous photoshoot.”

What is your earliest beauty memory? “My earliest makeup memory is the first time I realised the power of makeup, and that it is every woman’s secret weapon. When I was 13, I discovered makeup and it changed my life. I started wearing mascara and overnight, everyone from 7–70 reacted to me in a very different way. I was instantly more empowered, magnetic and mesmerising.”

Tell us where you find your beauty inspiration to launch new products? “From designing new products or creating a look, to branding and campaigns, inspiration comes to me in so many different ways. I always get inspired by need – necessity is the mother of all invention [Plato]. I often get inspiration for my products on the red carpet too, I am always thinking within the remit of how do I find a solution to problems? Whether it is to do with concealing imperfections or re-emitting light to more flattering angles of the face, making an eye palette easy to use through control pressing the powders or visibly sculpting celebrity limbs without going to the gym. I am constantly looking for ways to make the lives of all women that little bit easier. When it comes to colour, I take inspiration from the world around me, I’ve been inspired by sunsets in Ibiza and various locations abroad or even flawless textures that catch my eye on the way to work. Life informs my ideas constantly. I also have a mix of creatives, visionaries and rule breakers that I look to for inspiration from Helena Rubinstein, Coco Chanel and Walt Disney, to Steve Jobs, Winston Churchill and Estee Lauder...the list goes on.”

A Pillow Talk lipstick is sold globally every two minutes — what makes this product such a cult? “Pillow Talk is on everyone’s lips and it’s my ultimate lip icon! I believe Pillow Talk has become such a cult, must-have in your makeup bag or handbag because it works for everyone, for every occasion. I wanted to create a ‘suits-all’, effortless, lip-enhancing shade that would be loved by

FAST FACTS:

• Charlotte was born in London in 1973 • She has collaborated with designers including Tom Ford on beauty campaigns • Awarded an MBE in the Queen’s Birthday Honours List 2018 for services to the beauty and cosmetics industry • In 2013 she launched her own skincare and beauty brand – Charlotte Tilbury Beauty Ltd at Selfridges in London • In November 2015 opened her flagship store in UK Covent Garden • Since her brand’s launch it has won over 200 awards everyone, all over the world and when I launched the sumptuous, perfect, nude-pink shade it created Pillow Talk mania! The now world-famous, award-winning and best-selling shade is loved by supermodels, starlets, beauty editors, influencers, entrepreneurs and icons. From a meeting at my office, to working long days on a shoot or leading the artistry backstage at Fashion Week, it it’s my go-to colour… I even wore it on my wedding day!”

In 2012 you launched your own You Tube channel and blog providing makeup tutorials and tips from celebrities including Kate Moss etc – how well received and important is this to you? “I have always watched make-up tutorials on YouTube – it is one of my favourite social media platforms! I also love creating makeup tutorials on YouTube myself – they are incredibly important for simplifying makeup looks that people might not think would suit them. It is also amazing for building my profile directly with consumers; revealing all my expert secrets and creating a deeper relationship with my followers. I first launched my YouTube channel to decodify makeup for the masses, start a beauty school in your pocket!! The views now total over 46 million – My Feline Flick video is my most watched tutorial on my channel – it has over 5 million views”

Best piece of beauty business advice you have been given? “It’s not strictly business advice, but I remember when I was starting out, I received a note from a Beauty Editor saying “Knock it to them, Charlotte. I know you’ll be a star” it encouraged me to keep following my dream during tough times and really gave me motivation when I was cold calling for jobs and struggling, it made me realise that I just had to believe in myself. Because of this you will find a hand drawn star all over my brand and on the packaging.”

What are your plans for the future? “My plans for the future are to continue to share the power of makeup with everyone, all around the world, making every woman and man feel like the most beautiful versions of themselves, everyday. I will still be totally revolutionising and disrupting the beauty industry. I have always been determined that I will be a disrupter in the industry and I want my company to be known for ground-breaking innovation across all that we do, every time we do it. I couldn’t be prouder of how far the brand has come in the last five years since we launched, and I’m excited about the future.” n


BUSINESS

GETTING Gorgeous Businessman Rob Tamburro is continuing to take on distributorship of beauty brands in Australia since forming Bellezza last year. He reveals to Anita Quade how he is tackling the ever changing face of makeup and his tips for growth. SINCE THE FORMATION of Bellezza in 2018 Tamburro has taken on two makeup brands – Palladio and now Gorgeous Cosmetics. He reveals the lessons he has learnt along the way.

Time To Reflect: “I felt that 2017 was a huge year after selling my previous makeup brand (Bodyography) I had taken five months off. I used this time to spend with my new born son but also reflect on the industry and just how much it has changed especially over the last few years. Salon spending and needs have changed, retail has changed so I thought about all the conversations I’ve had and all the worries I hear from salon owners. I knew what salons wanted but I had to find a brand that ticked all the boxes.”

The Palladio Effect: “Palladio had been in contact with me for years and I thought it was time to finally meet and talk. A quick trip to the US and one week later I came back with a new contract. Palladio is an amazing range of products created with great formulations based on Botanical and Vitamin infused extracts. Its Paraben Free and Cruelty Free across the brand. The real trick was to build a business model that keeps Palladio affordable. And that’s what we have created a quality range that is affordable for the everyday consumer. This means more stock on shelves more sales and more returning clients back to your salon.”

Getting Gorgeous: “Gorgeous Cosmetics is a real case of one door closing and another one opening which was the perfect scenario for our business. Over the years I got to know the Gorgeous brand and really appreciated what they did particcularly in education and in their marketing and growth across Australia. With David and Liza establishing themselves in the USA I saw the opportunity to add Gorgeous to our portfolio offering our clients two brands with two very different attributes. To be honest they complement each other and makes what we do so much easier. Gorgeous Cosmetics was created by Australian makeup artist David McConnell in 1997.”

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Brand Creation: “Anyone in our industry will tell you the blood sweat and tears that go into creating a brand such as Gorgeous. Not to mention to last this long, especially in this day and age. The formations are great with products manufactured in Italy, however I really do believe that their biggest drawcard is the education that they have established over the years through the Academy of Makeup or HUB. With Academies in Melbourne, Sydney and Brisbane I cannot tell you how many people I have met over the years that commenced their makeup journey at the Gorgeous Cosmetics Academy. It is stocked in more than 500 hair and beauty salons around the country and sold online.”

The Power Of Social Media: “In this day and age social media is everything and simply put, marketing that money cannot buy. Literally. (unless you have a spare million dollars lying around). We live in a world where people want to use the products celebrities use and consumers are driven by current trend products. So the trick is staying ahead and constantly refreshing yourself with on trend products. Social media forms the basis of this new business and the business model we have put together.”

Brand Power: “It has been our bread and butter. Only four months into it from our first shipment hitting our shores it surely has been a lot of work. Countless hours has been spent creating the back end, warehousing, distribution, marketing and general logistics. One thing we never want to say to our clients is that we don’t have stock. Our warehouse is full and ready to distribute.”

Changing Times: “What we did 10 years ago to launch a brand has zero effect today. Or at least it feels that way. Times have definitely changed and competition is as high as it ever has been especially now with social media. Old relationships don’t necessarily mean they will continue in new ventures. You have more energy when your 30 compared to when you are 40.”

Inspirational Outlook: “Keep your costs low and be prepared to sacrifice. People only see the surface of your business and no one ever sees the hard work and sacrifices you make and continue to make. Don’t try the get rich quick technique overnight, it doesn’t happen, a wise man once told me when I got started in this industry he said: “ There is only one get rich quick scheme, and it takes five years” – those words always stuck with me.”

Image Is Everything: “Have the combination of great product (of course), quality formulations with a conscience, Paraben free formulas that are healthy for the skin and Cruelty Free. You need a strong social media presence not only to showcase your products but used by influencers and loved and followed by many. Your brand needs to have its own image and not just be another makeup brand.” n


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BUSINESS

BRAND

ESSENTIALS Critical marketing elements are key to making your business thrive and continue to grow over the coming years reveals Melissa Haywood. YEARS OF PLANNING AND careful consideration goes into starting any small business. Every aspect leading up to a launch date is not to be overlooked including designing the perfect marketing materials that effectively reflect your brand. Haywood says: “Marketing essentials are universal as they ground themselves in the core ways a small business connects with their targeted audience. Designing and creating the perfect materials are vital for your business to prosper in the marketplace.” Here are tips for designing marketing materials:

1. Logo: As much as everyone is hoping to create the famed Nike tick, you need to view the logo as a storytelling opportunity because it is essentially the first impression for a customer. Logos communicate your brand identity so the initial steps in creating one are by discovering your brand values, voice, and unique brand attributes. You need to view the logo as a storytelling opportunity because it is essentially the first impression for a customer. If you want to be taken seriously, use a professional. Logos are a key pillar of your business’s brand development. It sits on your website, your signature, business cards, products, stationery, and the list goes on. A logo needs to look professional and have an everlasting and powerful impact. Use a maximum of three colours at most and pick these based on the mood you want to create and don’t be cliché with symbols.

2. Signage: Catch the eyes of your potential customers! Whether it be for an office, event or market stall, signage is an effective way to get your message across and attract attention. It is important to consider the following questions; Will this sign will be used indoors or outside? If it is going to be used outside, how long are you going to be leaving it there? Will it need to withstand certain wind conditions? Will it need to stay out in the rain, or do you plan to bring it indoors overnight? Whether you are using this inside or out, how durable do you need this to be? In an ideal world, how long would you want this product to last? Are you going to bring it with you to multiple trade shows across the country, for example, or will you just be using it once or twice for a special occasion? As you’re looking for a specific product to meet your signage needs, it is very important to keep the answers to these questions in mind as you shop. Designing the perfect sign should include: using a big and bold font, writing a simple message with a large enough font size to reach your expected audience, creating a contrast

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to make your sign eye-catching, and actually identify what substrate is best for your images.

3. Business Cards: Look professional, build trust and set your company apart from others in your field. Your business card says a lot about you and your company. Your design should communicate your values, distinguish your business from the competition, and encourage people to get back in touch. It is important to choose an appropriate size and shape creating a design that fits you. This not only influences the text size and amount of information you can include but also communicates things like whether you’re conventional or a bold non-conformist. Be sure to add a special touch whether you include embossing, raised print, metallic finishes or choose a catchy card shape, your customers will notice the difference and your card will stand out. Finally, ensure your contact details are easy to follow – the way your information is laid out is an important consideration. Don’t forget to proof thoroughly for typos!

4. Brochures: Brochures are a perfect choice for saying more about your business. Whether you’re looking to offer more detailed information about your services, use it as a menu, or simply make more of a connection with customers, a brochure gives you the space to tell your story. Even though it’s made from a single piece of paper, a brochure is one of the most flexible marketing tools a small business owner can use. It can introduce your potential customer to your business as a whole, showcase specific products, or communicate other important information about your business. Brochures can even be segmented for specific audiences, giving you the chance to offer every potential customer a message that speaks to them. The aim is to create a great-looking print asset that can demonstrate your offering at a trade show, at your office, in the mail, or on the road. Just remember, simplicity is better - keep your language clear, concise and to-the-point. n As the Head of Vistaprint Australia, Melissa Haywood applies her passion for helping Australians grow their businesses to the world of customised products. www.vistaprint.com.au


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BUSINESS

Beauty Academy

IN SESSION

Makeup artist and brand founder Victoria Curtis is set to share her industry knowledge with students. She shares her goals for the much-anticipated academy that opens in Melbourne this month. By Anita Quade

VICTORIA CURTIS SAYS she was always inspired by beauty as a young girl after gleaning inspiration from her mother and so started a life-long love affair with the industry that has seen the bubbly blonde launch her own makeup collection and now she is taking on the role of educator. In her own words she reveals the importance of educating the next generation of makeup artists.

THE VISION: “I want the Victoria Curtis Makeup Academy to offer aspiring makeup artists an elite and professional makeup course in an environment that inspires each and every student that walks through our doors, as they embark on their own makeup journey. 

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Our mission is to offer the highest level of education to our students as well as instill in them the knowledge, skills and self-confidence required to reach their full potential as a makeup artist.”

THE GOAL: “It’s our goal to produce well educated and professional makeup artists, by unearthing their creative talents as well as their business skills, in an intimate and creative environment where every student will receive guidance and advice from our highly skilled educators. Our programs have been written and designed by myself personally and cover all aspects of the industry as well as makeup application and techniques.”

THE ACADEMY: “Our academy features high end luxury interiors, professional lighting as well as the Victoria Curtis Cosmetics range, that all of our students will have the chance to work with during our classes. We believe we are paving the way for a new era in Makeup Education and Training in Australia.”


THE LOWDOWN: Professional Makeup Course For Students “Our professional makeup courses are designed to teach our students the very basics of makeup application right through to a full understanding of techniques and skills required to succeed in the ever changing, competitive, yet exciting industry of makeup! Our part time courses will cover all aspects of makeup application including a variety of techniques, with the main focus being bridal, fashion and photographic work. Our students will also have the opportunity to work with myself and our wonderful team of educators who all plan to share their makeup and business knowledge during our classes. The course is designed to maximise creativity and free thinking in order to elevate the skill and competence level of our students. Being a teacher is above all an opportunity for me and my team to share our passion for the industry that we all love so much. I am personally excited to play a part in grooming the next generation of artists and being inspired by their unique talents and ideas.” 

TRAINING ACADEMY AND SHOWROOM FOR OUR SALONS AND STOCKISTS “The Academy will also act as a training facility and showroom for our stockists and retailers. We are proud to have 300 retailers across Australia and New Zealand and excited that we now have a base for our stockists and their staff to visit us and enjoy training sessions on new product launches, sales and business management. My personal focus is on education, I believe in the power of sharing knowledge and ensuring that our stockists are well equipped to ultimately meet the needs of our clients. It will also give potential retailers the opportunity to visit us in the showroom to view our range of products and meet with myself and my team to discuss our brand face to face.” 

MAKEUP SERVICES “When we are not conducting classes, our showroom will be open to the public ‘by appointment’ in order to have their makeup styled by one of our highly trained Curtis Collection Makeup Artists. We will cover all looks including special occasion, bridal, lashes, eyes and brows and of course the everyday, ‘no makeup, makeup look’ with the Signature Victoria Curtis Cosmetics Glow! I am excited to meet our customers personally and spend time educating them on our products and the best way to use them to achieve flawless, healthy skin.”

ONE ON ONE MAKEUP LESSONS “In addition to our makeup services, we will also offer one on one makeup classes for women who would like to learn how to apply their makeup like a professional, at home. Our classes will include a ‘Makeup Styling Session’ with one of our professional artists. The aim is to initially create a personalised colour profile for our client in order to educate them about the makeup hues and shades that best suit their features and their complexion. This will ensure that we enhance their best features and that their makeup is complimentary to their skin tone.” The one on one sessions will allow our clients to apply our products on themselves while being guided by one of our artists. This approach assists in building confidence and focuses on the client learning new skills and easy application techniques, that they can then incorporate into their makeup routine at home.

Clients can tailor their lesson to suit their needs. For example they may choose to learn how to perfect their complexion, create evening eyes, contour and highlight, apply lashes and of course style their brows. I personally love the thought of a woman having the confidence to apply her makeup effortlessly at home with products that do all of the work for her! Our cosmetics are designed to make application easy with a no fuss approach. Often it is about learning where to place products and which order to place them in that can change the way that your makeup looks in an instant! Clients can also select to book a masterclass with four or more of their friends. This will involve our educator conducting a makeup demonstration while the masterclass students applying the makeup on themselves and replicate the look step by step. This offers clients the opportunity to watch our talented artists in action and attempt to master all of their professional makeup techniques whilst getting an insight into their industry secrets!”

RETAIL SPACE Finally, our showroom will also act as a retail space for our customers to visit us in store and purchase their favourites from our collection. We will offer complimentary colour and foundation matching, as well as advice on Makeup Styling. Clients may also use this opportunity to book in for a “Makeup Styling Session” with one of our artists. Our styling sessions involve analysing our clients skin tone and undertone as well as eye colour, hair colour and skin type. All of these important factors play a role in the overall makeup look and focus on enhancing the clients best features. This project has been in the making for some time and I am excited to finally reveal everything I have been working on over the past year! The Curtis brand has been fortunate enough to gain a strong and loyal following over the past 8 years and I felt that now was the right time to give back to those who have given us so much! Having a Showroom and Makeup Academy based in Melbourne is a fabulous way to connect with our customers and offer them the chance to further educate themselves in the field of makeup.  On a personal level this has always been a dream of mine and to see this being realised in my home town of Melbourne is such a rewarding feeling. It seems like only yesterday when I was embarking on my makeup journey as a teenager and proves that all of our future students and young makeup artists have so many exciting opportunities in this amazing industry!” n

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ROUNDTABLE

Bianca Polinelli

Otto Mitter

Emma Hobson

Pene Timberlake

Just Lashes

Ex-Import Niche Products

Dermalogica

Syneron-Candela

Karla McDiarmid

Anh Hoang

Jess Goldenberg

Kylie Scarf

Macquarie Medi Spa

Le Beauty

The Therapist Co.

Vamp Cosmetic Clinic

ADVANCING EDUCATION Watch all of the dynamic Industry Roundtable videos online at www.professionalbeauty.com.au/roundtable PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

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ROUNDTABLE Roundtable guests listen to Anh speak.

QUESTION: What are the most common areas that salons will upscale their staff in this year? How does this relate back to increased revenue? LEARNING: THE LEVEL OF TRAINING, WHETHER IT IS TREATMENTS, TECHNOLOGY OR CUSTOMER SERVICE, SHOULD BE CONTINUALLY REVISITED. Karla: “For me and my salon, customer service is going to be big this year, retail, tips, equipment knowledge, and bringing new equipment into the businesses, to make more money and get better results. Then a lot more postgraduate skin training. I see a major trend will be the gut skin connection getting the results for skin. If you can combine all that together, you’ll get better results for the customers, and then you’ll have happier clients coming back, spending more money.”

Glenn and Otto catch up.

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Pre-filming coffees.

Emma: “The current trend is very much about personalisation. You can train staff to be able to communicate really well with the customer, about their individual needs, their lifestyle, and with that communication to retail better, to know skin better, and what people need. The root of everything is excellent communication skills, and then all the other aspects build on top of that. We advocate a lot of role play to get building a staff member’s confidence up, so they have those communication skills with the customers.” Pene: “People are coming in to see you for an experience, not just to get an outcome. If we talk about aesthetic wellness, we’re talking about holistic treatment, and we’re talking about being able to communicate on that one-to-one level, and really tailoring that treatment to the patient that’s sitting in front of you. If you can’t do that within yourself, and sell yourself and what you have, the experience isn’t there for that patient, therefore they’re not going to come back, and they’ll go somewhere where they do get their experience.”


Anh enjoyes her coffee.

Kylie: “The customer service side of things for us is about careful staff selection at the beginning. You can provide as much training as you want to staff that aren’t going to respond to that training, and it’s really flogging a dead horse. Staff selection is number one. Then for us, the customer service experience is just so important to people. A lot of people have the same devices, but your clinic wants to be that clinic that can really use those devices properly, and make it about the operator.” Otto: “Everyone can have the same services. How are you going to stand out with that same service? Generally, it’s your team. Your team can really customise and personalise that experience and make it something that the clients want to come back for. We’ve set up a private group for our trainers where we encourage them to go live. The trainers get to practice their skills and it’s a really good experience to build confidence.”

NO MATTER HOW HARD YOU TRY, THINGS ARE ALWAYS GOING TO GO WRONG, BUT WHAT IS IMPORTANT IS HOW YOU TURN IT AROUND WHEN A CLIENT IS UNHAPPY.

A caffeine hit before the roundtable.

Kylie and Pene chat over coffee.

Bianca: “What we’re trying to work on at the moment, apart from customer service, is really knowing our complaints management process. No matter how hard you try, things are always going to go wrong, but what is important is how you turn it around when a client is unhappy. Taking a complaint, dealing with it in a way that will be the best outcome for both us and the client, is something we’re really trying to nail down and work on this year.” Anh: “I apply role-playing in classrooms because sometimes in a learning environment, students are learning the information for the first time. With training, it’s always ever-evolving. Sometimes I’m delivering the same training to the same people, but they’re always going to learn something new out of it.”

Guests mingle before filming begins.

Jess: “Even coaches these days are starting to look beyond training, not at just the hard skills for the therapist, or even their diplomas , but those softer skills that they need to be able to have that intimate, personal communication within the client interaction.“

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QUESTION: Should the beauty industry consider increased opportunities for graduates that allow for an apprenticeship, traineeship, or scholarship as options to create workplace opportunities? LEARNING: THE VALUE OF PRACTICAL, HANDS-ON EXPERIENCE IS IMMEASURABLE AND SHOULD BE INCORPORATED INTO THE CURRICULUM. OTHERWISE, THE DEFAULT OPTION IS TO MOULD NEW, ENTHUSIASTIC EMPLOYEES TO YOUR OWN STANDARD. Anh: “I deal with a lot of people that come to me with zero minimal skills, and I train them up, and they leave feeling confident, and hungry, and thirsty to go out there and start working. In most cases they come back defeated, feeling overwhelmed by the industry. These juniors would thrive in a workplace environment,

Cheers to another roundtable.

Kylie and Pene.

given the opportunity with positive guidance. By guiding staff and growing them in your care, they’re going to be loyal to you and your business.” Otto: “There’s nothing like real life experience, learning on the job. It’s incredible, the experiences that you will learn, and that you encounter that way. But who’s going to monitor the training of the apprentice? As long as that bit is nurtured really well then you can have an amazing outcome. But it’s sad when you see people that have this apprenticeship opportunity, but then they’re shoved down the

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Lunch is served.

back of the store, and they’re not really getting the support that they need.” Pene: “Not everyone can be a mentor. Some people are great at training, and it comes natural to them, and they’re passionate about it, and other people aren’t. We need regulation not only to enhance the training that people are getting, but for the trainers as well. There are not really traineeships, or scholarships in either of those. You can do Emma takes notes. Certificate IV Training and Assessment to help you with that skillset, but unless the right mentor is in place, the skillset that they’re learning may not always be the best.” Jess: “The big gap within this industry is the postgraduates. There is a huge deficit right now in staffing; every single clinic and salon is looking for a great staff member. But where are they? The percentage of graduates that are able to obtain a role is incredibly low, purely because they don’t have the skillset to hit the ground running. These clinics don’t necessarily have the time to up-skill these therapists, or to give them the time of day to take 45 minutes to do a Brazilian, when a senior therapist can do it in 15. How can we get beauty therapists and graduates into the industry to become employable?” Kylie: “In our clinic, there are two things we’re not compromised on when we’re selecting beauty therapy staff. The first is two to three years’ experience and the second is they must have worked outside of the immediate vicinity, like overseas or a major city. It really is about the breadth of experience.” Karla: “My business is a little bit different because we’re in rural New South Wales. I would encourage everyone to come out and look in the country for jobs. Because we cannot find people who are even qualified. Some of my best employees are straight out of TAFE or college, and I can mould them to exactly what we do, what we want, without the bad habits.”


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ROUNDTABLE QUESTION: Share a first-hand insight of how a dedication toward ongoing industry education and training has transformed the profits of the salon, clinic, or spa known to you. LEARNING: THE MOST SUCCESSFUL BUSINESSES ARE THE ONES WHO SIGNIFICANTLY INVEST RESOURCES IN INSTITUTES, ACADEMIES AND INTERNATIONAL TRAINERS IN THE LONG TERM.

Pene and Otto in deep discussion.

Kylie: “Our clinic predominantly focuses on device-based treatments. A couple of years ago we looked into purchasing picosecond laser from Syneron Candela, which was a big, big, investment for us. Not only it is an expensive machine, but then training all our staff from beauty therapists up to doctors on it. Syneron Candela came into our clinic, taught our staff, and then offered opportunities to

Bianca, Glenn, Emma and Karla.

watch experts speak and use these devices. As a team, with the support of the supplier, we worked out how to get the best out of that machine. There are other picosecond lasers in the area, but we believe we’re the best at using it because we’ve invested the time in training.” Pene: “There’s huge pressure on suppliers to train people from the beginning, understand everything, give them all the answers, and do this in one day. Because from a salon perspective, it’s profitability. If you’ve got people who are in training, they’re not making money. But we look for people who are really interested in ongoing education and who want to get the most out of their devices when we form partnerships. Having an open mindset, an educational mindset, and a curious mindset, is really what we’re after when we’re partnering with clinics. If you have that, it’s really, really easy to get the best results, and therefore profitability flows, because they know how to use it, and they know how to use it properly.”

Otto is amused at the roundtable.

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Otto: “There’s a salon that we’ve worked with over the years in the US and they were very successful. But they started moving into the education world, and started to offer training themselves. That has really increased profits dramatically for their business, and all of their staff as well, because it started building their social media profiles in the industry, and that was bringing in more into their salon.”


Karla during filming.

Emma: “We have a massive education department at Dermalogica; it’s how we started our company and our foundation. If you look at the top 20 percent of our customers that bring in the greatest amounts of revenue, I can look at the training that they provide for their staff, and there’s a direct correlation. Those that invest in staff for training are some of our top earning, and top performing customers. We have what’s called the Expert Programme, where we train through a pathway, to get therapists up to expert level, and expert status. Again, those that have an expert or several experts are the best of the best.” Karla: “My accountant always tells me to stop spending money on education, but then he sees that we’re growing every year, and encourages it as it’s working. Education has been our success. That’s what made us who we are today. I go to every beauty expo I can. You have to attend courses, you have to get motivated - how do you motivate your team if you’re not learning?” Anh: “Education sells better than a hard sell. It’s educating the salon staff on how to use the product correctly, how to add the product to a service that they’re already offering. As a supplier, it’s Le Beauty’s duty to educate the customer, give them the knowledge to use it, as well as how to troubleshoot. It’s all very well for us to come in and train, but you’ve got to remember that ongoing training is a part of the salon’s responsibilities. Reach out, continue to learn, and we can then partner with you to make sure you get the best out of that.”


ROUNDTABLE Food from Butcher and the Farmer.

that can give skin tightening particularly are really coming into fashion. Keeping it, really, really natural is certainly what we’re seeing coming back through from our industry.”

Glenn facilitates the roundtable as Emma, Karla, Anh and Jess look on.

QUESTION: How do you determine which trends, largely driven by social media, will have longevity and are worth training your staff in? LEARNING: THE SUPPLIER ANDTHE CLINIC OWNER NEED TO BE BOTH PROACTIVE IN SEEKING OUT INFORMATION BEHIND TRENDS, BUT ALSO BE OPEN-MINDED ENOUGH TO BE REACTIVE IN THIS CONSUMERLED WORLD. Otto: “Social media is a huge part of all business these days, especially for us as we’re in the lash and brow industry. It’s all about getting the great selfie, about showing off your lashes and your brows. If you’re a salon owner, and you want to bring in a new treatment because you’ve Kylie at the roundtable. seen this trend on social media, you have to ask yourself does it have legs? Does this treatment have the sustainability in it to work? You have to do your due diligence and make sure that the product works effectively.”

Emma: “You have to consider is it just on social media, and is it really something your customers want? Is the demand there for your demographic? Does it actually fit with the business brand image of who you are, and what your business stands for? Because if it doesn’t fit into your belief system and your concepts, and what you’re trying to provide for your customer, then it just sends a confusing message to your customers.” Anh: “Sometimes when business owners come to me and ask what the latest trend is, and they’re considering taking it on for themselves, I always check if they have anyone in mind from their salon that could be trained up. Many times I’ve had attendees come to training, because their boss has sent them, but they don’t believe in what they’re learning.” Karla: “We started offering lash lifts because everybody was asking for it. But recently someone approached me about teeth whitening. It doesn’t fit with our brand – I’d rather leave that to the dentists. We want to be more skin, but a lot of our clients want their lashes done. We also got rid of manicures.”

Bianca: “A couple of years ago a lot of clients were coming to us asking about lash lifts. It probably took a couple of months of requests before we brought Elleebana on board and trained all of our staff with them, and it was fantastic. It’s a low cost service for us as salon, but it is a high profit service, so it’s been great for us.” Pene: “Good skin never goes out of fashion. You see a lot of trends coming through for big lips, or big cheeks, but glowing, beautiful, fresh-looking skin is always in. We’re seeing a lot of influence from our Asian and our North American markets, about skin tightening, pigmentation removal, and those things are never going to go out. People are moving away from surgery. Non-surgical procedures

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Otto, Bianca and Glenn in the Pickle Room.


IF YOU’RE A SALON OWNER, AND YOU WANT TO BRING IN A NEW TREATMENT BECAUSE YOU’VE SEEN THIS TREND ON SOCIAL MEDIA, YOU HAVE TO ASK YOURSELF DOES IT HAVE LEGS? DOES THIS TREATMENT HAVE THE SUSTAINABILITY IN IT TO WORK? YOU HAVE TO DO YOUR DUE DILIGENCE AND MAKE SURE THE PRODUCT WORKS EFFECTIVELY. QUESTION: Each of the suppliers featuring on today’s round table has dedicated significant resources to training, on a domestic and international stage. What have been the stand out changes at your academies, institutes, and training programmes in recent years? How has the traditional training format changed with the introduction of online courses? LEARNING: WE APPLAUD THE SUPPLIERS WHO ARE INVESTING SO MUCH OF THEIR TIME AND RESOURCES TO HEIGHTEN THEIR OFFERING IN EDUCATION. Emma: “Our training has changed completely over the last few years. It used to be more of a teacher style, now it’s very much about facilitation of learning. There’s a lot more energy, fun and interaction. We have gone into blended learning, where you can learn partly online. We have a lot of online materials, but we’re also working a lot with online courses. Classes are shorter and workshops smaller. It’s a lot more of a modular approach, so people can build on their learning. We have learning that can be done on social media. You can do it on your mobile and it’s made it much more accessible to everybody - there’s no reason why you can’t learn. If you’ve got five minutes, you can learn something in five minutes. If you’ve got an hour, you can learn something else.” Otto: “We’ve performed a massive overhaul on our online training component. You have a training procedure, and a way to deliver the modules and the

Otto, Bianca and Glenn listen to Emma.

course, but unfortunately from time to time, it doesn’t always go to plan. What we’ve had to do is make it more real, so more like a live session. Now we’ve got the technology to do, people are crying out for it, because there’s nothing better than hands on training. With online it can be hard to supervise. It’s all about making the online experience as face to face as possible. The Skype sessions, or the FaceTime sessions are there, and making it a lot more interactive and personal in that way. Pene: “We look at our education in three stages. We’ve got local education, we’ve got national education, and we’ve got international education. Webinars are really popular now, from an international perspective. People want to see what other people are doing overseas. We bring in a lot of experts. From a national standpoint we look at thought leaders, and try to partner with people who are doing amazing things so we can showcase what they’re doing, and get them to mentor and train as well. At a local level, we have more educators now than we do sales people, which is amazing. We’ve found 50 percent of our clients are repeat clients, so they buy from us a second time when they partner with us.” Anh: “It’s very important as a trainer to be knowledgeable, and make sure you’re delivering everything that you need to deliver, to cover all bases. But you need to do it in an engaging way - being interactive and rating the learner’s way of receiving information, then adjusting accordingly is so important. Doing cookie cutter training gets mundane, even as a trainer to do, let alone a person to sit there and hear it. It’s really important to be able to read the room, engage with them, and deliver in a way that they can digest.”

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QUESTION: In July 2018 APAN launched their CPD program to encourage Continuing Professional Development. This initiative allows professionals to gain recognition in being qualified to perform their professional responsibilities. What other options could be considered to raise standards in a professional environment that remains unregulated? LEARNING: CLIENT SAFETY IS PARAMOUNT AND REGULATIONS NEED TO BE STANDARDISED TO ENSURE THIS. Jess: “Who is aware that this was released? When we think about CPD, who becomes accountable or responsible for it? Does it come back to the salon owner, or does it come back to the therapist? Putting more formality around this career progression from the get go, and aligning that with your performance reviews, is something that would be a really good way of bringing it into the industry and standardising it, and bringing in some of those regulations into a somewhat unregulated industry.”

The roundtable was held at Glebe’s Tramsheds.

Cheers to another sucessful roundtable, this time on Advancing Education.

Otto: “There can be benefits with working with associations. Generally, these associations do have a board of experienced people from the industry that are coming together collectively to impart their knowledge to hopefully make better regulations for the industry, and improve standards. We all understand that, as long as there’s no hidden agenda sometimes behind that. But as a business owner, doing your own internal auditing processes is something that you can do yourself, to ensure that you are maintaining a really good professional standard.” Kylie: “The key word here is unregulated. There needs to be some regulations, particularly with device-based treatments. There has to be a professional standard that states what we’re all working towards and the bare minimum of achievement

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in order to work in a clinic of a certain calibre. There has to be a yard stick, there has to be a standard that everybody’s aiming for, for automatic credibility. To just do random courses is not transferable from clinic to clinic.” Pene: “National standards are really important, certainly to increase patient safety, and really, that’s all it’s all about. It’s also looking at a clinic’s hygiene standards and having a governing body who is in there often, to make sure that we’re meeting these standards for our clients, down from hygiene and safety, right through to how the devices are used, how products are used, who’s doing them, where their professional development is at. The whole industry from the ground up should be looked at from a regulation perspective, really thoroughly and seriously.” n


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Leading by

EXAMPLE Education Manager Asia Pacific for The International Dermal Institute and Dermalogica. Emma Hobson reveals the 10 things she has learnt about educating the beauty students of the future.

1. Nothing remains the same so be open and adaptive to change. “Phycologists tell us that most of us don’t really like, embrace or cope well with change, yet it is the constant that is the driver in most businesses and something we all have not only to get used to but something we have to learn to enjoy and not fear. I’ve learnt as not only a leader of a team but also the company spokesperson on various platforms that it’s my responsibility to communicate innovation and change in systems, protocols and our products with a great degree of transparency, authenticity, inclusion and positivity. Any change needs the buy-in from others it effects, its vital to highlight the benefits to each person or the business, the challenges as well as the opportunities it brings with it. Open dialogue is essential, providing a safe place to discuss reservations and fears and overcoming those for a positive outcome. I’ve personally loved working for a company that is in constant evolvement and innovation mode striving constantly to be the best. In my long tenure my job description has changed dramatically, not only have I had to reinvent myself several times but so have my team and my department. I’m proud to say I’ve never had a day when I’ve been bored or not challenged in some way thanks to constant change and I love it!”

2. Keep curious, keep interested. “I’m naturally a curious soul which helps greatly in my profession. In an industry of constant innovation and change it’s mandatory to keep abreast of what’s happening, the trends what’s hot, what’s not, new ingredients and product development, new technologies across the board and new business strategies. It’s also important to keep your antenna up to notice what’s happening outside of our industry and how and why something is successful and importantly can that translate and be replicated in some way to what we do. Keeping curious, keeps me engaged and excited and I believe is one of the reasons I’ve remained in the same industry my whole working life.”

3. Keep educated “If I didn’t see the immense value in education I shouldn’t be in my role. Education is the food that fuels me, drives me,

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develops me and keeps me on top of my game as it does with all that it serves. I strive to be constantly better at what I do, I love to learn from others who are experts in their field who impart their knowledge so I can keep progressing forward. I know that without years of continued learning be that from a book, a course, a conversation with someone amazing, a lesson I learnt from another I would not be the person I am today nor had an incredibly rewarding career. I have to acknowledge the company I work for who have been responsible for much of my professional development and is supportive of it’s employees with training and development opportunities.”

3. Relationships are everything. “Those three words are more valuable than diamonds because we are all in the relationship business. If you don’t like people, then this certainly isn’t the industry for you. Strong professional relationships are the bonds that keep us tightly woven together. Being an industry predominately of women for women this is so important to us, we need good relationships like we need oxygen to survive. I’ve learnt to value above all things the importance of forming good relationships with work colleagues, suppliers and our customers. Having great relationships allows me to get so much more out of my role, it’s why I love my job so much, it’s the wonderful people I encounter each and every day. It also allows me to foster respect, empathy and understanding for others, have open dialogue and clear communication in an environment of trust.”


“I do not lead my team on my own, I must give credit to my fabulous and very capable support managers who do an incredible job. Leadership is a skill set that very few were born with, for the majority, like myself it’s a skill learnt by trial and error and investment in leadership education. To effectively lead a team, you need to put your own ego aside, because it’s not about you, it’s about them. Being accountable for the development of other people, their happiness, success and fulfilment is a huge responsibility and one I take very seriously. What I’ve learnt is that if you make a team member feel safe, supported, valued, important cared for and heard, having their best interests at heart, they will give you the very best of themselves, enjoy what they do, see themselves growing and developing and stay loyal to you and their work colleagues.”

5. Switch off “It’s too easy to let the day to day systems of how things are done just keep happening without questioning whether they are still effective or even necessary. If any staff member can’t answer ‘why do we do it that way, do we still need it or can we do it better’? to any system we have then we know it’s time for it to go, especially if the answer were to be “because we’ve always done it that way”. So each team member is charged with feeding back to me what they think is unnecessary and we can switch off completely or create a more effective way. This allows better productivity, happier team members who are not bogged down with unnecessary, demotivating tasks that seem pointless to them.”

IF I DIDN’T SEE THE IMMENSE VALUE IN EDUCATION I SHOULDN’T BE IN MY ROLE. EDUCATION IS THE FOOD THAT FUELS ME, DRIVES ME, DEVELOPS ME AND KEEPS ME ON TOP OF MY GAME. 6. Communication is key “Clear, concise communication and excellent listening skills, are one of the greatest gifts you can give to another. It eradicates misunderstandings, puts you on the same page and it empowers the people you are communicating with a great deal. I’ve had to work hard on my communication skills being an educator and a manager, there has been a direct coloration between the better the communicator the more successful I have become. I’ve had to learn the relevance and importance of attentive listening (not easy for a born chatter) and realise that this is as important if not more important that actually speaking at times. I recommend and credit much of my communication skills to an author I read many years ago called Dale Carnegie on effective communication, each page of his various works was like gold to me. Without good communication skills (in our industry) it’s like walking in quicksand, you’ll struggle to create relationships with your customers and your co-workers, creating trust will be difficult and promoting treatments and selling products nearly impossible.”

7. Delegate effectively “It’s easy to think you can do something faster and better, but this is simply self-serving. If we are to develop a team, give them interesting work we have to let go of things that not only are we good at but also that we enjoy.

EDUCATION

4. Inspiring leadership

Delegation is not about handing out tasks that you don’t like doing but responsibilities that challenge them and develop them, it’s also essential if you wish to harness a succession plan with your team members long term. If I am to be effective at my job I have to trust my team and share the workload and empower them to make a substantial contribution to our productivity and our end goal. I’d never delegate a responsibility that did not come with the required training or my support, or the buy in from the employee. Checking in on their progress I’ve learnt is vital, offering support where needed but never micromanaging or taking over the task unless it is absolutely necessary. Delegation has proven to provide me the space and time to work on my projects effectively and see my team excel and be empowered in their roles.”

8. Be present “Having a job with what seems a million and one things to do and a mind that is constantly working in overdrive, it could be so easy to be in someone’s company to have your head space somewhere else and not be actually present. Studying mindfulness has been an enormous help in my career and personal life, teaching me the skills to keep attentive to the person or people you are with, I’ve learnt that this is a great gift you can give to someone else that makes them feel good about themselves, feel important, respected and listened to. It also means you actually take in accurate information and have the ability to respond with clarity.”

9. Nothing comes without hard work “A lesson I learnt from my parents that has served me enormously well is that hard work is what is required if you want to have the respect of others, achieve excellent results and meet deadlines. I have found no other way that produces the desired result than with hard, focused work.”

10. Customers and clients are key “Understanding the enormous importance and value of our customers and our clients has always to be in the forefront of my mind, they are the reason I have this amazing job, they are the reason we exist as a company, without their continued support it would all disappear. For this reason, I’ve learnt that one must always put the needs and welfare of the customer first.” n Emma Hobson is the Education Manager Asia Pacific for The International Dermal Institute and Dermalogica. www.dermalogica.com.au

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WAXING

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MANIFICO FOR MEN

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WAXING

THE PERFECT

WAX

Want to know the secret to return clientale? Here are the five common waxing mistakes and how you can avoid them.

1 2 34 5 Not communicating with your client.

Regardless whether it’s a five minute underarm wax or a two hour full body treatment, you need to consult your client. It’s the only way you’ll learn if they’re a first-timer or a veteran, what skin type they have, or if there are any medical conditions that might affect the procedure. Also ask if there have been an recent changes with their skin or body or if there’s anything else you should know. Followingup after the treatment is also an excellent idea, but ultimately, a quick chat beforehand is the best way to avoid potentially harmful and uncomfortable situations.

Not cleaning the skin before waxing.

Just because skin looks clean doesn’t mean it is. Sweat, creams, deodorants and dirt can almost always be found on the body and make it difficult for wax to adhere to the skin and grab hair. You can advise your clients not to swim in chlorinated water or take a gym session before their treatment, but even if they take your advice it’s good practice to prepare for the worst. Try using a skin cleanser to remove any pollution from the skin on the area that’s about to be waxed before patting dry with a disposable towel. Brush the skin with a dry body brush to eliminate any ingrown hairs before sprinkling a bit of baby powder on the area. It’ll absorb any excess moisture so the wax and strip can adhere properly.

Not thinking about you.

Waxing might not seem all that physically demanding, but when you’re bending over, twisting around and moving between two work stations, it really is tough work. Make sure you watch your posture by avoiding bending your back while working, so check the height of your treatment table and adjust it if necessary. Invest in a waxing trolley that you can move around the room and park next to whatever body part you’re working on so you don’t have to keep going back to the cupboard. And wherever you can, remove long wax strip towards you. This makes for a lot less strain on your body rather than ripping it away.

Not upselling.

Not capitalising on this is an excellent way to lose money. Offering your clients homecare products so they can get the best results from their wax is a great way to add an extra purchase or two. It’s also professional duty, as waiting for your customers to contact you saying they have got spots or ingrown hairs the last time they visited is something we all want to avoid. Soothing gels and creams such as that contain lavender and soothing chamomile or Tea Tree are great, as are exfoliating mitts and ingrown hair prevention pastes.

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Not being meticulous when it comes to hygiene.

Covering wounds, re-using single use equipment and not sterilising are all big no-nos. Gloves are a must when safeguarding your personal safety and that of your clients, so wearing single-use gloves when waxing is the best policy to have in your salon. If you think wearing gloves means you don’t need to wash your hands, you’re way off. Hands can become warm and moist in gloves which promote the growth of micro-organisms – and often it’s not so easy to keep hands hygienically clean as you remove a pair of gloves. Best to be safe and either wash hands or use an anti-bacterial hand rub to get things really clean post (every) client. Any reusable equipment, such as tweezers, needs to be sterilised with mild alkaline detergents in the pH range 8.0 to 10.8. You should also get cracking to sterilise, as the longer equipment is left unsterilised, the more microorganisms will love it and multiply – once they have powers in numbers, they can be pretty hard to say goodbye to. When preparing for a new client, only put sterilised equipment out just before they arrive and always re-sterilise after every appointment.


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verb shine with a soft, slightly wavering light: her skin shimmered in the sunlight

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INDUSTRY INSIDER

SUPPLIER

under the SPOTLIGHT Barneys Salon Supplies founder Donna Kerkvilet reveals her business inspiration and the key ingredients for a success salon. Tell us why you set up Barneys Salon Supplies? “The idea began when I owned a salon, it was frustrating and time consuming placing my consumable orders each month. Quality issues, value for money and inflexibility were just some of the annoying issues I dealt with. Having run a salon for 12+ years I know firsthand the pressures salon owners struggle with including staff issues, client satisfaction, book-keeping and trying to maintain a work life balance. So, we started an online website with the idea orders could be placed when it suited salons and not when it suited the distributor. Ron my husband and business partner, was importing items at the time (in a different field) and assisted me with logistics and warehousing .”

You have extensive experience in the beauty industry leading a successful franchise salon such as Ella Bache – what is the biggest lesson you have learnt in running a business? “A happy and motivated team can make you or break you! While this takes time and patience, this is a crucial part of running a successful salon. Therapists need and want to be kept updated with industry insights and product knowledge, this helps them become more confident when dealing with their clients for rebooking and retail sales. Keep staff up to date with upcoming marketing promotions! This way they can extend their customer service to their clients, pre-book treatments and plan an achievable and attractive commission structure. This approach is imperative, so owners can create an engaged workplace and reward staff when they make their targets.”

How has the beauty market changed? “The beauty landscape has changed dramatically. Tanning, nails, and laser clinics have redefined “normal” in the beauty therapy world. These businesses have broken away to specialise in segmented areas of what was part of a normal beauty salon business, and in many cases, have created a competitive pricing market. If clients receive a professional service that exceeds their expectations, price will not be a consideration, however, often a client is not aware of the differences in a quick service and a quality service. Salons are now faced with the new aspect of promotions, client education and in creating a customer journey and to communicate to clients why they should use their services rather than a low-cost alternative. Now more than ever it’s about creating an experience that sets you apart from the rest. Your focus should be on good salon hygiene practice (disposable

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TOP TIPS FOR A SUCCESSFUL BUSINESS 1. 2.

Exceptional customer service A motivated and confident team including ongoing treatment and product training 3. A marketing plan 4. Don’t be afraid to ask for help methods whenever possible), amazing customer service including pre and post service touch-points, a good service menu and the latest in service and product education.”

What sets Barneys apart as a business? “We pride ourselves on our exceptional customer service, involving them at every opportunity. Our goal is to go on their journey with them and make managing their salon, easier. We do this by engaging feedback via our surveys and asking customers what they need from us so we can better help them. This feedback helps us immensely with our product mix, product education and training. We try to bring our customers education with a difference by showing them how to perform the service, use the products, then go over some marketing tips helping promote and encourage more bookings. We have recently introduced our “Beauty Box” to deliver product information, industry insights and address questions on our customers lips.”

What products do you stock? “As well as a large range of consumable products, we also stock ranges from suppliers we trust and those who offer a distinct point of difference. We have Caronlab, Mancine, Lycon, Refectocil, Eleebana, Long Lashes and Voesh just to name a few.”

Tell us your plans for the future... “Starting in a couple of months we are launching our “Salon Owners Hub”. This hub will not only deliver workshop information and webinars, it will feature industry leaders and


resident experts. There will be great tips from our experts as they share their knowledge on running a successful and profitable business, industry trends and product knowledge. We are very excited about the launch of this new hub and look forward to its development and growth in the coming months and years.”

How do you choose the products for your portfolio? “Global industry tradeshows, customer feedback and our core focus on consumables. We scale the major trade shows worldwide to see what’s new, what’s innovative and what will create a point of difference for our customers. These trade shows give us an insight as to where our industry is heading and helps us plan the growth of our range and what we should introduce back home. These shows also gives us a chance to offer products salons may not be aware of, or not been able to find anywhere else. Feedback from our customers about new products is encouraged and appreciated. When we understand what our customers need and what their customers are after, we seek to source solutions where we can. The fact our focus has always been on consumable products is also a player in our portfolio growth. We will continue to grow and update our “Barneys Salon Supplies” range of consumable products based on what our customers ask for. We choose these products based on quality and nothing but that.”

What has been one stand out moment in your career? “Winning the Ella Bachè Award for Franchise Salon of the Year was certainly a big moment professionally. To be acknowledged like this, within the biggest franchise group in the industry, was a big pat on the back for all the hard work our team had put in over a long period of time. However, I would have to say that the stand-out moment was handing over the business to my long-term manager. To see her development and ambition to take over the business made me very proud. It also represented the official start of Barneys, allowing me to work with hundreds of salon owners all over the country, assisting in their success.”

Do you have any business mentors? “We have a selection of “mentors” and we have regular meetings with these amazing people. Not all of them are in the beauty industry but share our passion for providing a solution for salon purchasing, training and profitability. It is great speaking to people from outside the industry as it shines a different light to situations, we may not have thought about. Their experience is profound and broad, bringing solutions that can adapt to any business and help us help our customers move forward.”

How can salon owners continue to thrive in such a competitive environment? “You must stand out from the crowd, there are salons in every shopping strip and shopping centre. A knowledgeable team, hygienic salon practice and customer service is a non-negotiable! Continually updating your salon is crucial, we often get ‘salon blind’ and think our salons look fine. However, new salons are opening all the time, they are slick and clean and offer something fresh. It’s important to remain up to date in order to remain relevant in this market. Clients get bored! A fresh and clean salon is imperative to attract and retain clients, so consider new services, new equipment and certainly point of sale. The little things count…good quality tea/coffee cups, a big friendly smile when they arrive, refreshments after a treatment, opening the door for clients when they leave… it all makes a difference in creating a satisfied client and more importantly, a returning client.”

What are some of the most important aspects salons need to be aware of to ensure return clientele? “Without a doubt customer service and a knowledgeable and happy team. Ensure your team is confident with services and product, this will pay off in so many ways. Make your clients feel special and do the little things that set you apart from other salons. Many new clients book in for a treatment either to feel better about their skin or they’ve been unimpressed or had bad experience elsewhere.”

Tell us how your passion for beauty developed? “When I received my first pay cheque, I couldn’t wait to go to my local beauty salon and purchase a mask believe it or not! Not sure why it was a mask, maybe it was a magazine article or a TV commercial, but I loved the experience of the therapist recommending the correct mask and I used it religiously. The feeling you get when you receive a beautiful facial or even an amazing eyebrow wax is something that never leaves you. I think I always knew that I would do something in the beauty industry field from a very young age.”

What is it you love most about the industry? “Over my years in the industry, I’ve had the pleasure of meeting so many amazing women who are building amazing salons that provide high quality client experiences. The passion that they have for their profession and their openness in sharing knowledge is incredibly empowering. With people like that running the industry, it’s no surprise that we see so much innovation and change!”

How do you see the beauty industry evolving in the next decade? “Customers want to see a quick solution to their concerns and solutions which enhance their performance. One major category evolving is equipment. More salons are specializing in new innovative services for face and body, and this will continue to grow! Therefore, innovations in equipment will continue to be popular with more salons adding new service categories to their menus. Another will be the continuing demand for “Green and Vegan” products. Consumers are more aware than ever what is going on their skin and want different options or a choice. Recyclable packaging and cruelty free products are also in demand from both clients and therapists.” n

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BEAUTY TREND

High

BROW

Benefit’s National Brow Artist Hannah Mutze reveals the three brow trends to watch out for in 2019.

PERFECTLY IMPERFECT BROWS

“Think soft edges and subtle shape – this brow is the love child of an Olsen sister & Solange. Can a brow get any cooler? Style the PI brow by layering fibrous brow gel on top of brow powder! Apply the powder with a soft angle brush for a light handed finish and backcomb the brow gel for added texture.”

TOUSLED BROWS

“Requiring the bare minimum of upkeep to maintain its gloriously dishevelled look; tousled brows are all about the perfect balance of unkempt and groomed. Not for the faint of heart, the brows are left to grow out almost completely and wearer beware, wild results ensue!! Amp up the look with a light brow tint for added fullness, or use a clear brow gel to brush hairs up for an even wilder finish.”

SLEEK BROWS

“Think chic, clean shape with a side of polish, sleek brows mean business. For the gal who likes attention to detail and styles her brows – this look is best worn with a monthly brow shape and tint to keep them crisp. When styling, ensure a perfect colour match for the most seamless result and layer on a clear brow gel for that wet-look gleam.“

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2019 Brow Resolutions

SHAPE UP, SANS THE SWEAT WITH THESE TIPS • Flatten the tip of your micro fine brow pencil, hold the pencil horizontally in a line with both of the brows. Draw tiny strokes to fill brows using the edge of the flattened tip – they’ll be the finest, most natural looking strokes your brows have seen! • Break the rules! It’s ok to layer different formulas, in fact it can take brows to a whole new place! For an easy, natural looking combo – buff a brow powder through brows for soft focus shaping and filling, then backcomb a tinted brow gel like Gimme Brow + right on top! The result? Quick, natural looking brows. • Pencil less, blend more! Make this your 2019 brow mantra. Only apply product where brows need it – think shape tweaks, filling gaps and holes. Brows will look 100 times more natural and you’ll be saving product. Always follow product with a spooly or small brush to blend and soften colour.

• HAVE BROWS PROFESSIONALLY SHAPED Eyebrows have the ability to transform a face as they create the appearance of lifted cheek bones, a brighter, open eye area and a more youthful appearance. • BRUSH YOUR BROWS UP . Brushing brows up works like an instant facelift. Consider it the slick, high ponytail of the brow world as it opens the brow area, and straightens the brow – reducing the appearance of dark circles and puffiness. • LET BROWS GROW The big brow beauty trend shows no signs of slowing so give client’s eyebrows a chance – let them grow for four weeks. • TRY A BROW TINT Gone are the days of a one colour suits all brow tint. Brow tinting is completely customised to suit client’s complexion. Tinting takes just 10 minutes resulting in semi-permanent brow colour, which gradually fades over 2-4 weeks. Why the tint? It instantly makes brows look fuller, thicker and more defined and it looks like waking up with makeup! n

• NATURAL EYEBROW TINTING WITH TATTOO EFFECT • LOW COST PER APPLICATION, OVER 100 + APPLICATIONS PER BOTTLE • GENTLE AND INNOVATIVE FORMULATION • STAYS ON HAIR UP TO 6 WEEKS • NO HYDROGEN PEROXIDE

PROFESSIONAL EYEBROW TINTING

A luxurious palette of natural shades which can be used individually or mixed together to create the ultimate brow colour for your client. Elleebana’s innovative formula helps to strengthen hair, restore growth and the natural shape of the eyebrows.

elleebana P E AC E • T R A N Q U I L I T Y • B E A U T Y

To find your closest distributor, contact:

info@elleebana.com

www.e l l e e b a n a .co m

@elleebana


CAREER

HOW I GOT HERE: HEATHER HARRISON Managing Director Advanced Skin Technology

How would you sum up AST? “AST is an innovative company that brings leading and cutting edge skincare technology to both the Australian and New Zealand market. We believe in educating industry to offer premium information and achieve outstanding results with in a framework that supports diversity and collaboration.”

Tell us what inspired you to be part of this? “AST offered and still does a great working environment where I can truly make a difference. Every day is different and we are part of a dynamic and growing industry.”

I AM PASSIONATE ABOUT LOOKING FOR THE BEST OF THE BEST IN THIS INDUSTRY

How do you choose the brands to be part of the company’s portfolio? “We look for the best available around the world to bring to Australia and New Zealand and always with a key that offers something different to what is currently being offered.”

What are some of the best tips that you can offer businesses to boost revenue? “Be true to what you believe, employ staff that are smarter than you, always have the customer as your focus, offer amazing service and care for everyone who touches your business.”

Tell us your one of your most memorable moments with AST?

“Skincare has always been an interest of mine because I have very sensitive skin and go red at the drop of a hat! I also believe that if your skin is the best it can be, then it builds confidence therefore I am passionate about looking for the best of the best in this industry.”

“Sitting with the designer when we started to work through the Aspect brand vision before we even had product. Also celebrating my 20 year anniversary with AST.”

“When I started in this industry skincare in medical clinics was not even thought of and big brands at cosmetic counters was the go to place to get advice and premium products – these brands that were often driven by big marketing budgets. The landscape has changed to be more focused on science and results for the end user. Cosmetic chemistry and advanced ingredients have progressed a long way from the early days of Glycolic acid.”

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“Brands will become even more passionate about ingredients and blends to get best results. Packaging will become more of a focus with more sustainable options being developed. Service is going to be a strong focus to ensure clients get the best level of care and are not just internet surfing! Internet will be a real part of the clinic offering and needs to be a full service with a huge amount of education and S.M.A.R.T technology.”

Have you always had an interest in the skincare industry?

How have you seen the industry change over the past decade?

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What are some of the major trends you can predict this year?

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What is your favourite part of the job? “I love seeing people grow and develop in their careers or seeing small business owners grow healthy business. This means clients coming back into the business because they are getting great results on their skin.”

Are there any challenges/downsides? “Ensuring that the company is always compliant with the changing regulatory environment including NICNAS, APCO, Human Slavery act, ECT and all the reporting required. There are new requirements and new acts that we are being asked to comply with constantly.”


What do you wish you had known when starting out in the business? “Be 100% flexible and be open for all opportunities because everything changes.”

BE 100% FLEXIBLE AND BE OPEN FOR ALL OPPORTUNITIES BECAUSE EVERYTHING CHANGES You also run invitation only events and the AST Academy – how important is it to expand your offering for clients? “We are always looking for needs of our customers and developing things to meet these needs. We are looking this year to offer more events and increase offerings in each state for the AST Academy. We believe education is the key to success.

Can you let us in on any plans for future expansion? “We brought on Skin Better Science and Organic Nation last year which are two amazing brands. This year we have secured the agency for Derma Quest and look forward to working with Derma Quest to further develop this brand over the next year. We are always looking for new opportunities and have a number of discussions happening for expansion.”

What are some trends in the skincare industry you foresee? “We are going to see on going advancement of ingredients cosmetic skincare products. Tightening of regulatory environment. More awareness of the carbon footprint that our industry is having and positive actions around this. People matter and I hope to see commitment to developing quality therapists and business owners who believe in continued personal growth.” n


INTERIORS Photography: Nicole Bentley

TALKING TRENDS WITH: Melanie Grant Renowned Australian skin professional Melanie Grant has established boutique skin studios in Sydney, Melbourne and Los Angeles along with hosting seasonal residences in Paris. The Sydneysider who was announced as Chanel Australia’s first official skin expert in 2016 shares her tips on creating the ultimate salon interior. By Anita Quade.

Tell us how you would sum up the ambience of your Melanie Grant salon? “My LA studio encapsulates the overall feel and aesthetic of a contemporary Parisian apartment. The most fundamental aspect across all of my studios – is that clients are able to feel at home in an intimate, warm and welcoming space. In fact, this ethos was one of the catalysts for the conception of MELANIE GRANT SKIN, as I was unable to find a space with a similar offering. It’s essential that my clients enjoy a relaxing, pleasant and collaborative experience, rather than a transactional one. An at-home feel is equally as important for myself and my team, as the studio really is a second home to us all.”  How often do you refresh the design? “The design of the studio is constantly evolving, changing and maturing. Throughout my frequent travels and constant interactions with clients from all walks of life, I am fortunate enough to constantly encounter unique and invigorating sources of

inspiration and influence. As such, I am perpetually (and incidentally) evolving and refreshing the design of the studios, whether this is through the interiors, the artwork or staff uniforms (which we have recently had redesigned by Albus Lumen).” What is the most important part when creating an interior?  “Being a service-based space, the functionality of the studio is obviously a key priority from the beginning. Aside from the practicality of the space, for me, the most important aspect of design lies within the detailing to ensure my desire to create an intimate space is well-executed. As an example, in Los Angeles we forewent the inclusion of a point of sale as to offer clients a highly personable experience with an at-home feel.”  Where do you find the salon interior inspiration?  “Interior design is my second passion and I am constantly inspired everywhere I go. Personally, I love French, Italian and German design. In fact, all of the furniture in the LA studio is sourced from either France or Italy”.  What’s your fave part of the salon?  “It’s hard to narrow it down to a specific section of the studio as the entire space feels like home. I do love the reception areas in all of my studios and of course the treatment rooms. In LA I love our bathroom – complete with a freestanding tub packed full of Chanel bath and body products.”  Any favourite design features?  “Probably the mirrored staircase in our LA studio and the product discovery room in our Melbourne Studio.”  n

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THE PALETTE


TECHNOLOGY

Which Salon Software

IS RIGHT FOR MY BUSINESS? Step 1 - Think about what you need The right salon software will simplify your life and make running your business a breeze. It will run on your computer, laptop, tablet, and smartphone, no matter where you are, and be easy for both staff and clients to use. Your clients are used to having an amazing experience at your salon, so their experience booking appointments or making payments shouldn’t be any different! We know that choosing the right salon software is an important decision, not just for you and your business, but for your staff and clients as well. If your booking software doesn’t match the vibe of your salon, it could mean the difference between a potential client choosing your salon, or not. Some salon software solutions only do simple scheduling, while others have tons of bells and whistles you probably won’t use (but will still pay for). Most businesses need something in the middle that combines a flexible calendar with simple, yet powerful business tools like visual reporting and marketing. Jot down a list of what you need your software to do, and compare it to what’s on offer. FREE SOFTWARE BEWARE There’s a saying when it comes to getting things for free. If you aren’t paying for the product, then you are the product. Free software can be great for personal use. When it comes to your business however, you need the best solution...and it doesn’t come for free. Often if the software is free, you’ll be bombarded with advertisements the whole time you’re using it. There have also been cases of clients data being ‘sold’ and then they’re targeted with ads instead. You might not even be aware of what’s happening to your clients, but it could end up reflecting badly on your business. Tip: Take the time to actually read the terms and conditions of the software you’re considering. Be weary of any that state they’re able to use your clients’ data as they see fit.

“Consider a program that has more than your business needs, not less. Cheaper is sometimes not better, and customer service is key - especially in the beginning when you need lots of help.” Phillippa Middleton, Buoy Salon & Spa, NZ Salon of the Year

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Step 2 - Making it work Not all software will run on all devices, so it’s important you take this into account when looking at your options.

Ask yourself: • Will my existing equipment work with the new software I choose? • Does your existing computer meet the minimum requirements to run the software efficiently? Contact the software provider to find out. • Is there an iPhone or Android app? Will it work on your phone, or your staff ’s phones? • Will it need to work with your current point of sale system, cash drawer, barcode scanner and/or receipt printer? • Is the software cloud-based (across all your devices), or stuck on one computer at my front desk? • Will the same information and tools be available on my desktop, tablet, and smartphone? • Can my staff access the software and check the calendar on their devices from anywhere? • Can we move around the salon and still have access to the software? • Will my other software work alongside the new solution? • Will it work with my accounting software like Xero or Quickbooks? • Does it work with my marketing software like Wordpress and Mailchimp? • Can it take payments using Afterpay or Paypal?

“I was constantly on my phone or computer, and it wasn’t fair to me or my kids. Now, with Timely, I have put the interactive calendar on my Facebook page and website and clients can pick their own day and time. I’ve had so many clients tell me they LOVE this feature and that it was so easy to use. I use the Timely app on my phone so that I can make changes or take payments wherever I am.” - Amber, Enso Float Room

Step 3 - Ask around Talk to others in the industry to get an idea of what’s already working for people. Read reviews, check social media accounts, and get an idea of how the company behind the salon software interacts with it’s users. Do they release features often? Is their customer support helpful and accessible? The best way to see if a piece of software is right for your business though, is to just give it a go. If there’s a free trial available, test out the software and get your staff ’s opinions too. If you’re not sure exactly what you want or need, have a look at online forums and social media community groups to see what other business owners are using or talking about. n

“Not all software is created equal. Just because it says salon software, doesn’t mean it’s what you need or want. Do your due diligence.” - Larissa Macleman, Salon Coach Ryan Baker, CEO and co-founder of Timely Salon and Spa Software. Timely is the world’s smartest appointment booking software. Beautiful to look at, simple to useand powers your bottom line. Manage appointments, clients, sales, staff, stock, reporting and more. Trial Timely free for 14 days. www.gettimely.com


Rezenerate NanoInfusion Device uses a three- phase process consisting of vibratory facial massage, product infusion and accelerated exfoliation to deliver a non-invasive treatment with excellent results. In 2 Skin Australia 1300 660 297.

Z Wave Pro is uses radial pulse technology to deliver acoustic shockwaves. Can be used as a standalone for the treatment of cellulite and stretch marks or in combination with non-invasive body contouring treatments such a laser lipolysis, cryolipolysi, RF or ultrasound. Cynosure Australia 02 9484 4546

U . CO M . A

Jett Plasma Lift Medical is a lifting and tightening device for the eyes and face. It usses the power of plasma to tighten skin and stimulate collagen and is a non-surgical alternative to blepharoplasty (eyelid surgery). Cryomed Aesthetics 1300 346 448

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Wishpro Lift is new to Australia and used to achieve a non-surgical face lift. It incorporates Magnetic Infusion Technology (MIT), different technology heads and serum infused treatment capsules to penetrate active serums into the skin for a toning, tightening effect. Zhav International 08 8362 0222

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MediLUX LED Light Therapy offers Red, Blue, Yellow, Green and NearInfrared wavelengths to treat every client’s skin concerns. Part of the ‘LUX Series’ range, it boasts the highest power output per wavelength available on the market. The Global Beauty Group 1300 006 607

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WELLNESS

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Hempz Tahitian Vanilla & Ginger Body Scrub Solaire 1300 650 079

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Ecoya Caramelised Walnut & Amber Candle Ecoya 1300 730 180

Selfie Skin IPL Hair Removal Handset Hello@selfieskin.com.au

Bestow Gut Love+ Professional Beauty Solutions 1800 625 387

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EXPERTISE

BUILDING LOYALTY Finding the right staff and retaining them is at the top of the list of priorities for salon owners. Here’s how to create a loyal team by Juliet Docwra. AT HABA, WE are fortunate enough to get to speak to a lot of salon owners across both the hair and beauty salon space and get to know some of their businesses quite intimately as we help them through workplace relations matters. We are hearing from our members that more and more they are struggling in finding the right talent for their spa or salon and in keeping them once they have been brought up to speed on the way that the salon runs. Staff retention seems to be through the floor, and that can be really costly for businesses. Staff retention in your salon or spa just makes good business sense. It is a far better option than continuing to invest in training and bringing your staff up to speed, only to have them leave for greener pastures as soon as they are starting to function well within your team. There are a number of key areas that we have discovered contribute to staff retention overall, and each should be considered carefully by spa and salon owners to determine how you can best integrate a mix of each into your business to stop great team members walking out the door.

PAY BETTER WAGES As someone in the beauty space, you know that you get what you pay for – you only have to look at a bad brow to see that! So why not apply the same thinking to your team? Staff in a spa or salon know what the award wage is at any time, and know that this is the minimum that they will be paid, regardless of where they are working. By offering slightly more, you are able to deter them from moving to a different spa or salon because the likelihood of them earning the same money is less – and unless things are pretty dire in your spa or salon, no one is switching jobs for less money. There is always going to be a break-even point on this – by paying $100 an hour you probably aren’t going to get a dramatically better staff member. There will be a huge jump in the quality of candidates you get for the job in the first place and the number of team members who stay with you if you pay above award wages.

CREATING CULTURE

create is everything to your staff, more so even than to you as the business owner. These are the girls and guys they will be seeing for long periods during the day, who they will probably be in close proximity to a lot of the time and will work alongside when the going gets tough – so it’s important to choose the right kinds of people for that team. You want to develop an environment where everyone pulls their weight and contributes equally, whether that’s to treatments or cleaning at the end of the day. You want your team to enjoy themselves but know when to be professional and turn on the charm. You want a team that are constantly pushing each other to be the best, learn more, do better every day. Usually, it begins from the top. Your personal approach to your business is the beginning of developing this team culture, and it is then led by your senior staff. You are then looking for a clear set of characteristics that work well with this same team culture in each of your new hires – not people who don’t gel or aren’t on the same page. Culture is a living, breathing part of the salon environment. It needs to be carefully curated, maintained and treated as required.

STAFF MANAGEMENT STYLE Sometimes, the key to keeping your staff with you could be in your management style. Everyone learns in different ways, and it’s important to consider the best way to work with your team to get the best out of them. Sometimes, you might have a great culture fit, someone who is really great and passionate about the work, but they struggle with things like time management or retail sales. This is your time to shine as the business owner. Presumably you got into the business because it was something you were great at – so use this opportunity as a way to share your knowledge while also giving positive performance management to your staff. One on one coaching in different areas or specialised training courses both improve your staff member and encourage loyalty, helping you to retain a team member that you have invested in.

PERKS OF THE JOB While it’s not all about bonuses and champagne, a reward for hard work is always appreciated by anyone doing anything. If your team reach their set KPI’s, dinner out on the boss might just be the push they need to get themselves over the line. It’s also important to remember that your staff are the best advertisement for your business you can find – if they have unruly brows or bad skin, this says something about your salon. Let your team practice their craft on each other in down times – a little beauty treatment always leaves customers feeling warm and fuzzy about your spa, so it will absolutely have the same effect on your staff. and act as a walking billboard for the business. Win win! n Juliet Docwra is the Marketing Assistant at HABA - Hair and Beauty Australia is the leading Industry Association for assisting salon owners around the country. Contact: www.askhaba.com.au

“The dream doesn’t work unless the team works” – and there are few workplaces where this is truer than in a spa or salon. The team culture that you

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WELLNESS

The lure of

EDIBLE BEAUTY A love of herbal and natural ingredients gave Anna Mitsios a vision to create a botanical range that promotes beauty from the inside out. She chats to Anita Quade about her journey as a skincare creator. I started Edible Beauty because… “About seven years ago I transitioned from a career in finance to naturopathy. This was triggered by my diagnosis as a Type 1 diabetic at the age of 18. I became very passionate about the incredible ability of natural herbs, diet and supplements to manage my health condition. I also became increasingly conscious of endocrine disrupting toxins in the beauty products. The Edible Beauty range was created five years ago whilst I was working at a natural fertility clinic. I was recommending that in addition to changes to their food and lifestyle routines, my patients make changes to their personal care products. I was shocked to find that there were very few options available for skincare products that were “edible” and that were luxurious and therapeutic. As a result, I embarked on creating my own range of skincare products. I was literally whipping shea butter, coco butter and rose water in my mother’s cake mixer and started sharing my creations with friends and family. After much research, courses, cosmetic chemist meetings, Edible Beauty Australia skincare range was born. We are now stocked in 40 stores/salons in Australia and are online in Europe, South East Asia and the USA.”

My goal was to…. “Provide a holistic solution to beauty and skincare and address the

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need for an “inside” and “outside” approach to clear and youthful skin. Our skincare range whilst “edible” does not compromise on results. Whilst we feel incredibly passionate about the purity of our ingredients list, we are equally passionate about ensuring that our skincare provides results and that is a sensual delight to use. We spend years formulating products to ensure that they are edible, therapeutically effective and that the look, scent, feel and experience of the products is like no other. The products are packaged in the beautiful Miron glass, a violet glass which preserves and activates the products inside.”

One of the biggest challenge I discovered was… “When I started out it was tricky to maintain a balance between work and life. When running a small business it is tempting to allow our work to take over all aspects of our life which may be required in the short term but over the long term can affect our health and relationships. I need to make a concerted effort and literally book space in my diary to switch off and find a space of calm and still where I can reset, ground myself and allow my creativity to flourish this is really important to me to keep me grounded as life can get extremely busy trying to balance a personal life along with a business and dream up new ideas for my brand.”

I learnt this lesson after making a career change from professional banking… “I have learnt that following your true calling in life is empowering and uplifting. It provides a new perspective and a new lease on life. Not only am I happier, I am also highly motivated and incredibly excited to arrive at work each day knowing that I am pursuing my passion. I highly recommend that people take the leap and pursue that dream job or passion they have been thinking about – you won’t regret it!”

My favourite product in the range… “This is our No.3 Exotic Goddess Ageless Serum. I love the wildcrafted botanicals in this product and feel the incredible therapeutic energy which emanates from the formula. It is not only rich in naturally occurring C to boost collagen production, this formula also contains Hyaluronic acid which hydrates and firms without making the skin greasy. The white tea in the serum is also a favourite ingredient. It has a beautiful antioxidant profile and also protects against the harmful effects of our very strong Australian UV rays. I really love using this product and its a staple in my vanity cabinet always. ”


I find it hard as a businesswoman to … “One of the biggest challenges I find is maintaining a balance between work and life. When running a small business it is tempting to allow our work to take over all aspects of our life which may be required in the short term but over the long term can affect our health and relationships. I need to make a concerted effort to switch off and find a space of calm and still where I can reset, ground myself and allow my creativity to flourish.”

This year we plan to… “We have a few exciting launches planned with a focus on sun protection and we will be releasing a body glow product which is a version of our popular Luminous Angel face glow! We are also in general embracing eclectic beauty and celebrating the unique beauty inherent amongst all cultures, ages and shapes and sizes.”

One of the most surprising things people don’t know about me… “I love cooking degustation meals at my home. A couple of times a year I will invite a bunch of friends over for dinner and meticulously plan a seven course meal which takes me a few days to prepare for! I love being creative with recipes and making my friends and family incredibly happy with really delicious food.”

My beauty mantra is…

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“A smile, hydration and greens galore are the perfect way to transform your beauty in a very short space of time! Adding natural and therapeutic ingredients into your skincare regime elevates beauty.”

I live by the motto.. “Live for the beauty of today and wake up wanting to make every day the best day of your life.”

The best advice I’d give to other beauty entrepreneurs starting out is… “To really believe in yourself and continue to have faith in your product or service and your dream. This is most important when things do not seem to be going your way or when you face adversity. It is at these stages that you grow the most and where you realise you are often 5mm from “making it”. Always believe that there is a way to succeed, as I am a firm believer that there always is!”

The biggest beauty trend i predict is... “I do feel that 2019 will be the year that natural products will be regarded as effective as cosmeceuticals and chemical based beauty procedures, providing very fast and efficient results without compromising our health. the corner! n

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SKINCARE

The Pollution

PROBLEM WE HAVE KNOWN for some time about the risks of UV and sun exposure however, recent studies have identified pollution as an additional source of skin damage. Scientific studies have shown that as well as pollution accelerating ageing, there is a strong link between pollution and a number of other skin concerns such as; acne, congestion, cellulite, pigmentation and rosacea. Unlike sunburn, damage resulting from exposure to pollution does not present an immediate response, increasing the danger because we are unaware of the damage it is causing. Alarmingly the amount of physical pollution present in our environment today is worse than it has ever been. London’s Oxford Street has the worst pollution in the world with levels of nitrogen dioxide up to 10 times the legal limit. In 2018 it was announced that more than 80% of people living in urban areas are exposed to air quality levels that don’t meet World Health Organisation standards. Air pollution causes more deaths worldwide than AIDS, diabetes and road injuries combined and is responsible for one in eight deaths globally.

What does it mean for the skin and what can we do to protect and treat ourselves against it? Carley Stewart investigates.

However, the good news is that steps can be taken to prevent and remove pollution from the skin and with innovative ingredients there are now products available that can help correct and treat damage caused by pollution.

HOW DOES POLLUTION DAMAGE THE SKIN? The dirt particles, which are 20 times smaller than the diameter of a pore and therefore not visible to the human eye, cause the most harm to skin. Due to their size, pollution particles are able to infiltrate the deeper layers of the epidermis, which can cause inflammation and dehydration. These damaging environmental agents have a very irritating effect and once they penetrate the skin, they activate multiple pathways of inflammation, including melanocytes.

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Step 1: Remove Clean the skin thoroughly! Think about the dirty film that builds up on your car between washes. That same film is building up on your skin - you just don’t see it.


We know we should clean our face, but many of us don’t do it that well or are not consistent. In the morning, cleanse and exfoliate in order to prep skin for radiance-boosting products. At night, you need to thoroughly remove the film of potentially harmful pollutants, not to mention makeup and everyday dirt and sweat. Cleansing alone is not enough, we need to exfoliate. Removing dead skin cells doesn’t make your skin thinner, the exact opposite is true – it makes the deep dermal layer of the skin thicker and not only provides a better barrier to pollution, it makes it less likely to develop fine lines and wrinkles. So what are the different levels of exfoliation available? Chemical exfoliants will contain mild acids or enzymes. When these ingredients are applied to skin, they gently dissolve the ‘glue’ that cements dead skin cells together. This also helps remove any pollution that is potentially trapped in between the dead skin cells at the same time. Chemical exfoliation can be achieved daily by using a cleanser formulation with AHAs or at a deeper level in a clinic with a chemical mask or peel treatment. The next level of exfoliation is physical; ideally use a daily facial exfoliation product that contains environmentally friendly beads that are gentle enough to be used daily. The final level of exfoliation is mechanical exfoliation and is an in-clinic treatment such as microdermabrasion or laser that will provide a much deeper and more effective exfoliation of dead skin cells and pollution. Ideal products: asap daily facial cleanser, asap daily exfoliating facial scrub, asap Microplus+ microdermabrasion treatment

Step 2: Correct To correct the damage caused by pollution, it is critical that your skin care regime is packed with anti-oxidants at scientifically proven levels. Antioxidants are without question the most powerful ingredients to diminish the visible damage of pollution. This is because antioxidants help to intercept the damage before it can have a significant impact on skin. It requires a range of potent antioxidants to safeguard skin from the visible effects of pollution. This is because different antioxidants work against the different processes in which various types of pollutants harm the skin. The best protection is leave-on products with the broadest range of antioxidants. It is essential to protect your skin with antioxidants 24 hours a day. Pollution is all around us and knows no barriers. Ideal products: All asap products contain potent antioxidants

Step 3: Protect The final step is to protect from pollution. Look for products that contain antipollution ingredients. Ingredients that help improve the skin barrier function are ideal. Swertia Chriata uses stem cell technology to enable increased skin renewal. This combined with telomere technology and peptides help regenerate the skin and help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, which are accelerated by pollution. Niacinamide is another key ingredient to look out for, it is scientifically proven to: • reduce water loss, improve hydration and increase the skin barrier • treat pigmentation; providing a more even skin tone, • provides lightening and brightening effect on the skin • can assist in the prevention of sunspots and reduce the risk of skin cancers • help treat rosacea, redness and blotchiness in the skin The final step in protection is ensuring the application of a physical shield in the form of a good quality mineral makeup which produces an effect like a protective mesh, protecting against the initial penetration of particles. Ideal products: asap DNA renewal treatment, asap super B complex, asap pure skin perfecting mineral foundation SPF15 n Carley Stewart is a Formulating Chemist and Managing Director of asap skin products, an Australian made + owned cosmeceutical skincare brand. www.asapskinproducts.com

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SALON VIEW

Quick CALL THE

DOC

Dr Ed and his team ensures everyone walks out The DOC Clinic feeling better than when they walked in. Practice manager Kylie catches up with Michelle Ruzzene to talk about the Melbourne boutique medical cosmetic and skin clinic.

Tell us about The DOC Clinic?

How many staff do you have?

“The DOC Clinic was established in February 2016. Dr Ed had been working in the local area since 2010 and had witnessed a growth in demand for cosmetic medicine, particularly in the areas of mole and scar treatments, leg vein treatments and general skin ageing concerns.  Many people were travelling to the city or further for treatment.  Dr Ed identified a need to provide a professional cosmetic medical service to the growing population of the west.  He initially hired rooms but found that he was becoming limited in the treatments he could provide, and needed more space, as well as availability to service the growing demand.”

“The DOC Clinic is a small boutique medical cosmetic and skin clinic. Our team consists of cosmetic and vein physician Dr Ahmed (Ed) Omarjee, Dermal Clinician Asha, medical receptionists Lynette and Marg and practice manager Kylie.”

RETAIL BRANDS STOCKED: • • • •

Beauté Pacifique Aspect Dr Cosmedix Elite DP Dermaceuticals 

Tell us about your services? “The DOC Clinic is a state-of-the art, modern, purpose built facility. We pride ourselves on offering a personalised and professional service. Our purpose is to deliver a professional medical cosmetic service provided by a doctor and a dermal therapist. We offer a broad range of non-invasive cosmetic and dermal treatments on site.”

What are the most popular treatments? “All our treatments serve a purpose, but the types of treatments which are becoming increasingly popular are less invasive treatments that give natural results. Anti-ageing injections continue to be very popular with some changes in the technique of injecting to achieve more natural, softening of lines.  Regular facials such as HydraFacials are giving lasting immediate results of increased hydration of the skin and a dewy glowing complexion.  Skin needling can also achieve great natural results, and when combined with PRP (platelet rich plasma) can achieve improved healing and longer lasting results. Cosmetic mole removal, keloid scar treatment and varicose vein treatments are also very popular.”

Tell us more about Dr Ed? “We are fortunate to have the services of Dr Ed Omarjee, who has been an experienced cosmetic physician since 2002.  Dr Ed is a Fellow of the Cosmetic Physicians College of Australasia, and a Fellow of the Royal Australian College of General Practice. As a qualified cosmetic physician, Dr Ed Omarjee has training in laser therapy, micro and ultrasoundguided sclerotherapy, dermatoscopy and skin surgery. He also has extensive experience in anti-ageing procedures like dermal fillers and anti-wrinkle injectables. We are a small team and a lot of internal training occurs every day, as the doctor has an open door policy for all his staff.  He enjoys sharing his knowledge with the team, as he prides himself having professional, educated and friendly staff.”

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Tell us about your partnership with Beauté Pacifique?

How important is education and training? “As a minimum we have our dermal clinicians complete specific treatment, laser modality and skincare training annually, or more frequently with new products and treatment launches, that keeps them across all the latest updates and advancements. Dr Ed attends annual industry specific conferences and training workshops, and is always one of the first cosmetic physicians to be invited to product and treatment launches with in the cosmetic industry. Dr Ed had a passion for learning and is always reading and researching new techniques and ways to improve.”

“Beauté Pacifique has been part of our clinic since 2016 and we use their products in many of our treatments, including our signature Beauté Pacifique Deluxe Facial. We prescribe their product as part of the at-home regime for many clients, especially post-treatment. We know we are guaranteed fantastic results due to the quality of the product and the ingredients, combining active and natural components to get that ‘wow-factor’ finish. Our most popular product would have to be Metamorphique Vitamin A Night Creme, because it is a highly effective night cream, while remaining hydrating. It is easy to use and results are amazing across all age groups.” n The DOC Clinic 302 Heaths Road, Hoppers Crossing, Victoria 3029 03 9021 6022 www.thedoc.com.au

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PROMOTION

SEE, SAMPLE AND EXPERIENCE the latest in clean, green and natural beauty at

NATURALLY GOOD 2019 The annual two-day celebration of all things Naturally Good will take place at ICC Sydney on 2-3 June, with this year’s Beauty and Personal Care focus expanding to feature more than 90 exhibitors from the world’s leading natural beauty brands including Jack n’ Jill, Dr. Bronner’s and Weleda. EUROMONITOR INTERNATIONAL RESEARCH has found a surge in demand for natural products across all beauty and personal care categories in both premium and mass channels, with consumers willing to pay a premium for products perceived to be safer than those with harsh chemicals, or with cruelty-free credentials. With this in mind, it has never been more important for businesses to discover what’s new and next from those at the forefront of the natural movement, which is why 2019’s beauty and personal care area is Naturally Good’s biggest yet. This year’s exhibition also features a Start Up Zone, so visitors can be amongst the first to see the most innovative products from emerging brands who started business within the past two years.

opportunity to hear from global experts such as Natural Products Consulting principal Bob Burke at the Expo’s Education program. Naturally Good’s Education Program has been updated for 2019 in a big way, opening both theatres to all visitors at no additional cost, with an updated format that avoids seminar clashes in its most inclusive year yet.

Bob Burke

Retailers and business owners looking for the next big thing will be able to learn from local and global beauty experts, see innovative and emerging products, build new connections and develop their skills all under one roof. In addition to previewing 360 exhibitors across the beauty, personal care, health, home, living, food and beverage sectors, trade visitors have the

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Attendees will gain practical insights on how to grow their business in retail, e-commerce and strategy from industry specialists, including Natural Products Consulting principal Bob Burke, who will share his wisdom on how to break into the competitive US market, Web Profits’ head of social, Katherine Chalhoub, on turning customers into adovcates, and Moustache Republic founder, Laura Doonin on how Australian companies can use e-commerce to win globally. Another seminar highlight includes a spotlight on the indie beauty trends shaping Australian retail with founder and CEO of Lük Beautifood, Cindy Luken and Belinda Hughes from the Natural Beauty

Cindy Luken

Expert blog, joined by local beauty buyers, influencers and researchers. Don’t miss the Southern Hemisphere’s largest natural, clean and green trade show featuring more than 360 exhibitors, including over 90 world leaders in naturally good beauty and personal care. Join the growing way of life and register today to reserve your place! Event Information:

Sunday 2 – 3 June 2019 ICC Sydney, Darling Harbour, Halls 3 & 4 10am-5pm daily. Visitor registration is now open at naturallygood.com.au/beauty Entry is free for those who register online, otherwise there is a $30 door charge. For further information, visit www.naturallygood.com.au.


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BEAUTY ESCAPE

BALI

Break

Mandara Spa in the Hilton Bali Resort is a tropical Asian paradise, Glenn Silburn discovers.

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GUESTS WAKE UP to panoramic views of the Indian Ocean and secluded sandy white beaches when they stay at the 5-star Hilton Bali Resort, which is located on a 40 metre cliff tower in Nusa Dua. It’s a stunning view that can also be enjoyed from the manicure-pedicure area in the hotel’s impressive Mandara Spa. The spa’s name - Mandara - comes from an ancient Sanskrit legend about the God’s to claim Titra Sanjiwani, a powerful holy water that held the secret of immortality and eternal youth. The legend pitched good vs evil as it tells of the ten stages of destruction and the eventual return to harmony. In this legend, Mandara Giri is a sacred mountain from which Titra Sanjiwani flows. This mystical sense of being can be felt immediately upon entering the spa. Eight traditional, open-air villas that have been designed for peaceful pampering, escape and tranquil indulgence.

INDUSTRY AWARDS • TTG Travel Award 2017 • Luxury Urban Escape Global Winner Set behind stone walls, they each feature a covered treatment area for couples, outdoor showers, lush tropical foliage, water fountain and a large, shared outdoor bath. Two premium spa villas include large steam rooms. The treatments have also been designed with the ancient legend in mind with unique and exotic spa offerings that reflect the beauty, spirit and traditions of times gone by.

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BEAUTY ESCAPE MANDARA SPA LOCATIONS • • • • •

Mandara Spa at Hilton Bali Resort Ayodya Spa by Mandara at Ayodya Resort Bali Club Med Spa by Mandara at Club Med Bali Hotel Mandara Spa at Maison Aurelia Sanur Chavana Spa at The Patra Bali Resort and Villa “The Mandara Spa experience combines the beauty and the allure of Asian traditions with the sophistication of modern spa techniques,” marketing manager Made Diah explained. The treatments are inspired by ancient health and beauty traditions from Indonesia, Thailand, India and Hawaii. For the traditional Asian inspired treatments, the spa has developed a range of signature products made from high quality; natural ingredients when made fresh each day are using local produce.

MANDARA SPA IS DISTRIBUTOR FOR ELEMIS SKIN CARE IN INDONESIA These are used to complement the spa’s Elemis range of products that are used for massages, body scrubs and wraps, facials and more. Made said the spa’s signature treatments were the Balinese Massage and the Mandara Massage (where two therapists perform at one time so the client experiences a four hand massage). Made said what kept her spa busy was the high standard of therapists. “Our staff are all professional and well-trained therapists,” she said. “They spend three months before they go to operational for a new therapist, and for a senior therapist, they will do recurrent training every year, as well as retail training onsite. “ Made said supporting her staff and giving them incentives kept them motivated. “We support and appreciated our staff as much as we can and have found that an incentive programme works best for our retail sales.” She said the challenges the spa faced included cheap offerings outside the hotel. “Many places around Bali sell very cheap treatments,” she said. “But of course, the quality is compromised. “A person who comes to us will have a very difference experience – our products are quality and our staff are well-trained.” With the beauty, grace and sensual indulgence in the surroundings with the exquisite details to every treatment performed, each guest can be guaranteed to walk out feeling serene and rejuvenated from Mandara Spa. n

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LAST WORD

NATALIE

ISAACS

Former cosmetics manufacturer Natalie Isaacs is the Founder and CEO of 1 Million Women who launched the movement for women to fight the climate crisis by the way we live. She shares her inspiration as a female crusader.

The best advice I have been given… Today is the first day of the rest of your life (my dad always said that to me).

The biggest lesson I have learnt acting on climate change…That every single thing you do and every choice you make shapes the world.

The motto I live by… I don’t really have a motto but I do spend my spare time creating memory anchors through family experiences.

I launched 1 million women because… I wanted to build a movement of women and girls living with the least impact on the planet to fight the climate crisis.

I get my inspiration from… my children

I’d tell my younger self this… love the earth like you do your family and friends. My proudest achievement to date… my children – they make me proud all the time. I am also so proud of creating 1 Million Women.

My beauty indulgence is… finding serenity by walking through a rainforest.

My goal this year… is to reach our millionth woman (currently we are at 880,000).

Natalie will be a keynote speaker at our inaugural BEAUTY & SPA INSIDERS summit on May 27 Check out: www.beautyandspainsiders.com.au

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EVENTS

SKINCARE SALES CONFERENCE To celebrate the announcement of Image Skincare’s four new products ahead of their world wide release this April/May, Professional Beauty Solutions (PBS) were invited to attend the Image Skincare 2019 International Sales Conference. The three-day event included product and training education, followed by a gala awards dinner where guests enjoyed a sit-down meal while sipping on the finest champagne.

LIVE FROM LONDON Medik8 launched its r-Retinoate Intense over breakfast at Sydney’s Alpha Restaurant. Medik8 director of research Daniel Isaacs gave a presentation at the media launch via a live video link from London where he said the new product was eight times stronger and worked 11 times faster than retinol. Beauty editors and influencers at the event were given r-Retinoate Intense, which retails for $389, to take home.

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WELEDA SKIN FOOD GETS RICHER Weleda, the brand loved by stars including Victoria Beckham, has just unveiled the new Skin Food range following on from the success of its iconic cream launched in 1926. Guests were treated to a delicious Wholefood Masterclass with the Healthy Chef Teresa Cutter at the Surry Hills headquarters as the company showcased its newest innovations including Skin Food Light, the Skin Food Body Butter and Lip Balm.

DERMALOGICA’S RECOGNITION LUNCH Dermalogica held their annual recognition events in February to celebrate the success of their top tier and recognised skin treatment centres. The Sydney event was held at the luxury Park Hyatt hotel, Sydney and hosted by the Dermalogica leadership team. Guests enjoyed drinks upon arrival, while taking in the spectacular Sydney harbor views, followed by a three course sit-down lunch. Guests were awarded plaques and gifts for their ongoing dedication to the brand throughout 2018, which earned them the coveted ‘Platinum Circle’ status for 2019.

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EVENTS

BONDI BABES Bondi Sands launched a four-product strong body range designed to assist the preparation and longevity of their self tans at Bump Day Spa in Sydney’s Double Bay. Beauty media and influencers were treated to a hand and foot massage using the new products at the launch, while Bondi Sands co-founder Blair James gave face-to-face interviews following the treatments.

BEAUTY BEATS Australian Technology Park was taken over by Sephora for their Where Your Beauty Beats event. Beauty media and influencers perused the stands which showcased the latest products and new brands to be stocked by the giant retailer in 2019. A DJ provided beats while guests sipped coffees and munched on pastries at the morning event. Each guest left with a hefty goody bag containing the latest launches.

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LASH LAUNCH Ardell Lashes celebrated the launch of their latest premium lash range, the Remy collection, along with their new Duo 2-in-1 Lash Adhesive, with a cocktail party. Christopher Hanna’s Bridge Lane Bar hosted a mix of media, influencers and MUA’s at the event, where guests sipped on customised cocktails and a selection of canapes. All attendees were treated to Ardell lash applications by Samantha Lee MUA, and Christopher Hanna Salon gave GHD curls to those after some extra glamour. Photos: Mitch Ferris.

CORNEOTHERAPY COURSE Dermaviduals’ held their first training of the year in Melbourne. Attendees learnt all about cosmetic chemistry, skin physiology, formulation delivery systems and corneoceutical ingredients, complemented with some hands-on practical education at the two-day Dermaviduals and Corneotherapy course.

Hosted or attended a great beauty event? We’d love to hear from you. Please email your clear photos with a brief description of the event to be considered for inclusion in Professional Beauty to our beauty editor, Michelle Ruzzene, at mruzzene@intermedia.com.au.

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AD INDEX

index Advanced Cosmeceuticals 11, 19 Age Delay 131 Artav Australia 117, 119 asap skin products 4, 5 Australian College of Weight Management 125 Australian Cosmetic Tattoo College 109 Barney’s Salon Supplies 105 Beauté Pacifique Australia 23 BEAUTY & SPA Insiders 34, 35 Bellezza 73 Biz Cover 45 BLC Cosmetics 59 Comfortel Furniture 107 Cryomed Aesthetics 2, 3 Curtis Collection 41 Cynosure 77 Dermacol 67 Dermalogica 82 Dermaviduals 17 Eco-Tan 39 Ex-Import Niche Products 87, 103 Guinot 61 Inskin Cosmedics 13 Jax Wax Australia 99 Le Beauty & Nail Supplies 89 Lycon Cosmetics 97 M&U Imports 79 Masters Beauty International 113 MJ Cosmetics 115 Naturally Good Expo 118 Payot 28, 29 Pelactiv Cover, 20, 21 Professional Beauty 123 Professional Beauty Solutions 15, 57 Regul8 132 Shedul 49 Socialize Me 37 Sothys Paris 6, 7, 65 Syneron Candela 93 The Uniform Stylist 52-55 Timely Salon & Spa Software 69 Ultraderm 51, 71 Victoria’s Essentials 63 BACK TO CONTENTS

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Profile for The Intermedia Group

Professional Beauty March-April 2019  

Professional Beauty is the leading business to business magazine for the Australian beauty industry. It is published bi-monthly and all six...

Professional Beauty March-April 2019  

Professional Beauty is the leading business to business magazine for the Australian beauty industry. It is published bi-monthly and all six...