brioche style bun 4.5" Sweet buttery taste & glazed
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Regulars
8 // IN FOCUS
Behind the scenes at Thailand’s leading hospitality trade expo.
12 // NEWS
The latest openings, books, events, and more.
14 // BAR CART
Thirst quenchers, slow sippers, and all things beverage related.
16 // BEST PRACTICE
How to connect with customers.
18 // PRODUCE
Cumquat is the small fruit that packs a punch.
20 // DRINKS
Bartenders discuss perennial performers whisky and dark rum.
24 // PROFILE
Renowned chef Vaughan Mabee on hunting, creativity, and daring.
60 // EQUIPMENT
Service trays can be both chic and practical.
62 // 5 MINUTES WITH... Sander Nooij from Yellow.
Features
30 // FERMENTATION
Two chefs delve into the experimental world of preserving.
36 // KITCHEN EQUIPMENT
New and innovative gear for commercial kitchens.
44 // CULINARY COUNSEL
Top chefs share their tips for industry newcomers.
48 // GOLDEN CHEF
Jake Kellie, Shane Middleton, and Bethany Neumann on success and longevity.
54 // FIRED UP
Saracen’s Head Hotel now has an affordable smokehouse menu.
A note from the deputy editor
WHETHER IT’S WILD elk and boar on Vaughan Mabee’s menu at Amisfield, or seasonal fruits that Jae Bang’s team at Freyja handpicks to ferment, this edition of Hospitality is all about seasonal, hyper-local produce.
Mabee shares his journey from teen dishwasher to co-owner and head chef of one of the world’s most talked about fine diners, New Zealand’s Amisfield. The chef shares insights into his provocative menu and his love of hunting.
This issue, we also explore how perennial Autumn favourites rum and whiskey come
to the fore at Melbourne venues Byrdi and Caretaker’s Cottage, and hear from Sander Nooij, long-time head chef of Potts Point vegan favourite Yellow, who recently took co-ownership of the restaurant. Newcomers to the industry should also read on to find expert advice from top chefs at a’Mare, Chiswick, and Northside Group.
I hope you enjoy the issue.
Until next time,
Laura Box Deputy Editor
COMMERCIAL DIRECTORHOSPITALITY GROUP Simon York T: 02 8586 6163 syork@intermedia.com.au
GROUP ART DIRECTOR –LIQUOR AND HOSPITALITY Kea Webb-Smith kea@intermedia.com.au
PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper jacqui@intermedia.com.au
A beautiful morsel from Garaku’s new menu by Head Chef Derek Kim.
Going global
Top takeaways from Thailand’s leading hospitality trade expo.
IN MARCH THIS year, Thailand’s leading hospitality and food service trade show, Thaifex-Horec Asia, ran for its second time.
The significant hospitality, restaurant, and café trade fair boasted 460 companies, with exhibitions, innovations, products, and tech displays from across 25 countries.
“Thaifex-Horec Asia 2025 has proven to be a valuable platform for Southeast Asia’s HoReCa industry, where participants forge new connections with international partners beyond the region to adopt and implement the latest technological innovations, allowing them to stay relevant and competitive,” said Koelnmesse Managing Director and Vice President Asia-Pacific Mathias Kuepper.
The fair welcomed almost 20,000 visitors from around the world to its home in Bangkok — marking an increase of 23 per cent from its inaugural 2024 edition, alongside a 28 per cent increase of international exhibitors. ThaifexHorec Asia focuses on nine segments: kitchen, café and bar, HoReCa (hospitality,
restaurant, catering/café) food, bakery and ice cream, cleaning, furnishing, dining, wellness, tech, and services.
While presiding over the opening ceremony, Thailand Minister of Commerce
Pichai Naripthaphan noted the significance of the trade event in fostering and facilitating global trade and investment with Thailand.
“The Thai Government is committed to expanding Free Trade Agreements (FTAs) to open new potential markets. Recently, we have signed the THAI-EFTA FTA, our first FTA with the European Union,” said Naripthaphan. “These FTAs will attract foreign investment and create valuable opportunities, especially for businesses in the HoReCa sector.”
Naripthaphan also noted that this edition of Thaifex-Horec Asia would serve as a crucial platform to bring together key players across the HoReCa supply chain following the recovery of the hospitality and tourism industry in the wake of the global pandemic.
Key takeaways
Thailand is a splendid case study for the importance of the hospitality industry in drawing international tourism. Its culinary diplomacy stems back to 2002, with the Global Thai Program, a diplomatic initiative aimed at boosting the number of worldwide Thai restaurants. Thailand’s gastrodiplomacy (a term which refers to the use of food as a means to gain international recognition and influence) included providing Thai investors who wished to open Thai restaurants overseas with grants and information. The program was a great success. Between 2002 and 2011, the number of Thai restaurants grew from roughly 5,500 to about 10,000, and the number has continued to grow in the years since.
“We’re so proud of our tourism sector, and we see that this sector relates to a lot of business. By attending ThaifexHorec, visitors can see things that will help in the hospitality sector,” Department
of International Trade Promotion (DITP) DirectorGeneral Sunanta Kangvalkulkij told Hospitality
The DIPT has 58 Thai trade offices around the world, supporting not only food, but also a variety of other sectors. Kangvalkulkij noted that the government support of gastrodiplomacy supports the entire supply chain.
Experts at the fair also emphasised the importance of technology for the global hospitality industry. Staying on top of technology in the food industry is crucial to maintaining relevance, according to Kangvalkulkij.
“[In] the exhibition, you can see that there are new machines that can help the food industry. I think that this is one of the things that Thai business people in the restaurant or in the hotel [industry] feel excited [about], because it helps them to serve better food and to have new things to show to the customers.”
Thaifex-Horec’s innovation awards celebrated 10 winners in the hospitality technology space, including Rynn — a pioneer in removing unwanted contaminants from drinking water to reduce plastic waste and other impurities; Cheftop-x — a professional high performance combi oven, equipped with AI to recognise food and begin the cooking program itself; Pop Speed Oven, which allows the user to prepare up to four pieces of fast food per cycle in less than 2.5 minutes; and Lucamari Principessa gelato machine, which features direct churning in standard carapinas, with no extraction or cleaning required between batches.
“Participants forge new connections with international partners beyond the region to adopt and implement the latest technological innovations, allowing them to stay relevant and competitive.” – Mathias Kuepper.
Thailand Minister of Commerce Pichai Naripthaphan
“The Thai Government is committed to expanding Free Trade Agreements (FTAs) to open new potential markets... These FTAs will attract foreign investment and create valuable opportunities, especially for businesses in the HoReCa sector.” – Pichai Naripthaphan.
Marketing was also a focal point of the fair. Hospitality brand and marketing consultant Nick Day stressed the value of social media marketing for restaurant success. He noted that 45 per cent of US diners say that they have tried a restaurant for the first time because of a social media post, while 22 per cent say that they have returned to a hotel or restaurant because of social media.
“Social media is not just about posting pretty images on your Instagram account. It’s very important to have an actual strategy, follow a framework, do everything properly. It’s not just taking a picture of a salad and putting it on Instagram. It’s not really going to work that way,” said Day. “We say how great social media is but understand that social media is just one part of an overall marketing plan.”
Day encouraged businesses to consider their target market and what they wish to get out of social media. “Consider what is it that [your market] wants from social media and what can you deliver to them from what they want, not just what do you want to tell them. I think it’s often less about your cuisine and your food than you think. Let’s think about what’s the vibe, what’s the atmosphere at your restaurant, what are the stories behind your food, behind how you work together as a team,” said Day.
Day’s top tips for hospitality socials? Stick to one message, be creative, and know your audience.
Kangvalkulkij encouraged Australian hospitality professionals to visit the fair, noting the importance of international views on changing, updating and improving perspectives in the sector. “This year, I understand that we have an increase of around 28 per cent of foreign visitors, which is a very good number. If we have more foreign visitors, it means we will have more cooperation, more business, and it will help update the hospitality business sector,” she said.
Thaifex-Horec Asia will return in 2026. thaifex-horec.asia ■
Entrée
The latest openings, books, events and more.
EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros
Smoking hot
Barbecue: Smoked and Grilled from Across the Globe
Hugh Mangum with Shana Liebman
Phaidon; $69.95
Barbecue expert and famed pitmaster Hugh Mangum has put together an encyclopaedic book on one of the world’s most-shared cooking techniques — barbecuing. The book features more than 270 recipes drawn from over 80 countries, with each described as a “love letter” to the art of barbecue. Barbeque is split into skewers and sausages; mains; sides; sauces and ribs; desserts; and a guest chef chapter, which includes recipes from 16 culinary professionals. Standout dishes include Korean rubs, Filipino liver sauce, and smoked skyr cheesecake.
“Barbecue transcends the fork and knife,” Mangum writes in his introduction. “It’s about connecting. It’s about nourishing — including nourishing your soul.” phaidon.com
Taking stock
Matt Moran has launched a new range of 500ml stocks which are now available at supermarkets across the country. My Perfect Stock covers three flavours — chicken, beef, and vegetable — made with real ingredients. “While not everyone has the time, interest or know-how to make their own stock at home, we all know that a great stock can be the difference between a good dish and an exceptional one,” says the chef. Moran has created a range of recipes available on his website that are made with his stocks, from pea risotto to braised lamb shank ragu. Available for $5.90 each. mattmoran.com.au
Transformation time
After almost a decade in action, Atticus Hospitality has reinvented its Paddington mainstay Tequila Mockingbird as Tqm. Taking the helm is Venezuelan Michelin-rated chef José García, who left a position at revered Buenos Aires fireside diner Fogón Asado. “Over the course of many trips, where I visited 30+ local restaurants, José’s restaurant Fogón Asado was the absolute standout. I’ve never experienced anything like it before,” says Atticus Hospitality Owner Michael Fegent. “I wanted to bring back the same passion and excitement I’d had opening Tequila Mockingbird 10 years ago and I knew José was the right person to help me do that.” tequila-mockingbird.com.au
Inner workings
Care and Feeding: A Memoir
Laurie Woolever
Affirm Press; $34.99
Laurie Woolever has had a colourful career in the US food landscape having worked as the late Anthony Bourdain’s assistant for nine years as well as for Mario Batali, who was accused of sexual misconduct, coinciding with the launch of the #MeToo Movement. Care and Feeding charts Woolever’s hospo roots working at food publications and studying at the French Culinary Institute as well as her time working as a private cook for billionaires.
“This is my story of being a (relatively) high-functioning addict in a world of temptation, led by a desire to emulate the successful, troubled men who guided my career,” she said. “I was given a number of opportunities, and I kept it together until things fell apart.”
Cheap and cheerful
Wagyu Ya restaurant group has expanded its Melbourne portfolio with Yamamoto Udon. Located on Bourke Street in the heart of the CBD, guests can choose from 18 different udon varieties which span curry and carbonara as well as Sanuki (thick, silky) and Himokawa (wide, ribbon-like), which is limited to just 70 servings per day. The chef team make udon from scratch each day under the guidance of Head Chef Ryosuke Yasumatau.
“Crafting udon is a tradition that takes skill and patience,” says the chef. “We’re all about combining high-quality ingredients with an accessible price point, making it easy for everyone… to enjoy a creative top-notch bowl of udon for just $19.” yamamotoudon.com.au
Soluna goes Italian
North Sydney restaurant Soluna has overhauled its menu to focus on Italian cuisine after a brief closure. Etymon has recruited Italian native and pizzaiolo Alberto Cacciatore to join the team, who is making Neapolitan pizzas made from sourdough starter and tipo 00 flour. Besides pizza options, guests can choose from a menu of porchetta, Bolognese lasagna served tableside, spaghetti with spanner crab, and chicken cotoletta. The restaurant has also undergone a refresh, and now features a 12-seat chef’s table for larger dining parties. soluna.sydney
Low steaks
Three Blue Ducks has teamed up with agribusiness Sea Forest to offer guests low-emissions Black Angus steaks. Cows are given a small amount of a seaweed-based supplement called SeaFeed™ made with native red seaweed, which reduces methane emissions by up to 67 per cent. “We’re not just offering our diners a quality product, we’re also helping tackle the climate crisis by reducing the methane emissions from cattle,” says Darren Roberton, co-founder of Three Blue Ducks. The steak is available at Rosebery and Byron Bay and is the first time Sea Fed Beef has been made available at restaurants. threeblueducks.com
Bar cart
Thirst quenchers, slow sippers and all things beverage related.
EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros
When it rains…
An unexpected collaboration between Rainbird and H2coco has resulted in a vodka coconut RTD. There are two sparkling premix options that feature vodka and young green coconut water with either pineapple or passionfruit juice. The packaged coconut water market is currently booming in Australia, with the segment projected to reach $259 million by 2029, meaning there’s much demand for anything and everything coconut related. Available for $25.99 at BWS and Dan Murphy’s.
Daily rituals
Casa del Cacao has launched two ceremonialgrade Criollo cacaos sourced from single-origin estates. Cacao from Costa Rica is grown on a family-owned property before it is hand-harvested and stone-ground according to traditional methods, while the Mexican cacao is produced in Tabasco, which is where it has been grown for centuries by Mayan families who practice sacred farming and fermentation methods. The product has a deep, rich flavour profile and is full of antioxidants. It can be purchased in different sizes and preparations including solid block, chopped, and grated. Prices vary. casadelcacao.co
Rosé all day
Burch Family Wines has added two new rosés showcasing grapes from Western Australia made by Chief Winemaker Nic Bowen. The Miamup Rosé 2024 ($30) is made from a Margaret River Shiraz blend and falls under the winery’s regional range, while the Marchand & Burch Village Rosé ($28) is a Pinor Noir blend sourced from vineyards located in the southwest of the state. “We took a delicate winemaking approach to let the varieties and terroir shine,” says Bowen. “These are… dry, refreshing, and very enjoyable.” Available from select wine retailers and howardparkwines.com.au
Golden hour
Felons have released its latest barrel aged creation: The Last Orange ($39). The brewers fermented the golden sour for 26 months on Slavonian and American oak and freshened it with a blend of navel and blood oranges. The brewers discovered the orange rinds lent the beer a radical orange aroma. The result is a zesty, fruity beer that craftly merges subtlety and intensity — perfect for a picnic or to pair with seafood. “A proper journey to glass, The Last Orange is a testament to our brewers’ skills, patience and creativity,” says Brand Director Dean Romeo. felonsbrewingco.com.au
Light and bubbly
Wine brand Y Series by Hill-Smith Family Estates has added a range of sparkling wines to its portfolio. The brand decided to expand its offering in response to consumer preferences and has responded with a Cuvee and a Prosecco. “We’ve seen a movement in sparkling wines globally, where they are becoming the wine of choice for everyday moments with friends, rather than just for celebratory moments,” says Jack Glover from Hill-Smith Family Estates. The Prosecco is available through ALM in retail and onpremise, while the Cuvee ($16) is available from retail stores. smithwinestore.com.au
Regional reshuffle
It's time to rethink how we address staffing in country areas.
WORDS
Ken Burgin
YOU’RE NOT IMAGINING it — the recruitment squeeze in country areas has not improved. It’s not just us in hospitality. Health services, schools, farms, and even football clubs all chase the same small talent pool. We can’t fix it overnight, but there are clever, practical ways to make recruitment easier.
Let’s start with housing — a dealbreaker for many applicants. What’s possible with garages, or turning upstairs offices into bedrooms? Some operators lease two-bedroom units for staff, with rent taken from pay or reduced in exchange for a longer commitment. Talk to the local caravan park — a seasonal discount for vans in the quieter months now gives them a reliable place for new hires to land. Every council has unused property or vacant facilities — it’s worth inquiring.
And if a traveller can only stay three months, make those months count. We used to roll our eyes at short stays — now they’re a blessing. That means speeding up your systems and training. Create a series of laminated ‘newbie cards’ — a one-pager with daily routines, shift goals and ‘how we do it here’ notes. Every backpacker gets one with their apron. They feel part of the team on day one, not day 10.
The job is only half the experience — the welcome matters just as much. Travellers often arrive in a town where they know no one, so simple things like a staff meal, help finding housing, and being included in the social side of the business can make a difference.
Visas can be tricky, so check the current rules — there’s no point planning around 88 days of farm work if they’re on a student visa. Ask early and double-check through the online VEVO system. Many want a steady job and a good reference — they’re worth investing in. Create clear roles that work on a three-month cycle: less menu knowledge, faster training and more output. Treat them like seasonal pros, not trainees.
Local staff are still worth chasing — even if they’ve never worked in hospo. Short paid trials, basic quizzes and simple on-the-job coaching work better than long manuals. If you’ve got a confident second-year apprentice or long-timer, make them the mentor. And if you’re short on time, lean on video — even filming your POS steps on a phone can be speed coaching for new staff. Try running a ‘parents-only shift’ for a couple of days per week — 9:30am to 2pm,
when kids are at school. Train local parents over two weeks and rotate them for lunch shifts and functions: no nights, no weekends, no problem. You’ve now created the ‘mum force’. Try it with the ‘pop force’ and ‘granny force’ for seniors.
Staff sharing also works — if another venue two towns over needs two days a week filled, you may have someone happy to do both. Split travel, share training notes, and keep each other in the loop. It’s a rural co-op in action.
One country cafe owner told me about their local staff support group with other businesses, meeting every six weeks at the local clubs to share wins, swap stories and find out about useful resources. The business development people at your local council can be an excellent resource for this — it starts with frustration and turns into results.
Rural hospitality has always been built on community, creativity and a strong cup of tea when things get tough. You’re not alone. Every small win — a great three-month hire, a shared solution, a parent who says yes to a weekly shift — is a step in the right direction. ■
Rind is often sweeter than the flesh
Peel is sweet and not too tart
iStock.com/mart_m
Cumquat trees are gifted during Lunar New Year as they represent wealth and good luck
Whole fruit can be eaten
Plants are cold-resistant
Cumquat
Fresh or preserved, there’s no doubt the cumquat outperforms on the flavour front.
WORDS Annabelle Cloros
Origins
Cumquats or kumquats, as they are spelled mostly outside of Australia, are small orange fruits from the Rutaceae family. The name comes from the Cantonese word gam gwat, which means ‘golden orange’. There are different varieties and cultivars of cumquats, with the most popular including Marumi and Meiwa, which are round, and Nagami, which are oval-shaped. References to cumquats in Chinese literature trace back to the 12th century, and it is believed they are native to Southern China. The citrus was then introduced to Japan and later brought to Europe in 1846 by Robert Fortune, who was a collector for the London Horticultural Society. While cumquats are often thought of as citrus
fruit, they are in fact Fortunella, a genus named in honour of Fortune.
Growth and harvest
Best planted in deep, freely draining soil, cumquats require full sun to flourish, whether they are grown in the ground or in pots. When grown from seed, it can take anywhere from five to 10 years for cumquats to fruit, so it is best to select a more advanced plant. Cumquat plants will produce white flowers before green fruit appears. The size depends on the cultivar, but most are between 2.55cm in length. The fruit is ready to pick once it has turned bright orange in colour. They should be cut off using a knife or pruners and not pulled to ensure there is no damage
to the tree. Cumquats should be consumed within a week of picking, or they can be placed in the refrigerator to extend lifespan.
Flavour profile and culinary uses
Cumquats are sweet and slightly tart, with the flavour depending on the variety. Nagami is known for having fragrant notes and a thin rind, which makes them easy to eat as a snack on the go. Meiwa have thicker rinds and are sweet, while Marumi cumquats are sour. The cumquats can be eaten as is, but they are used in a range of dishes as well. They can be squeezed into dressings and over proteins, incorporated into drinks and vinegars or preserved to make jams and marmalades. ■
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WHILE OUR CAPITAL cities and regions experience the cooler months somewhere between gently and more intensely, the best venues continue to embrace seasonality in their drinks menus, adapting to nature, the weather and, as importantly, rapidly changing customer tastes.
“The consumption of whisky definitely increases in the cooler months,” says Luke Whearty of Melbourne’s Byrdi. “However, in Australia specifically there has been a rise in sugar cane spirits with some very interesting Australian rum distilleries coming onto the scene, which I expect to increase in popularity in the near future.”
“Darker spirits always pick up in popularity when the weather cools down,” agrees Kitty Gardner, head of drinks production at Melbourne’s Caretaker’s Cottage. “We’ve got a solid selection of Scotch and American whiskey for those who enjoy a nip. We also have a strong agave collection — while not aged, we’ve got some mezcals that absolutely fit into that same category of sitting and sipping on something with complexity and depth.”
Beyond the winter shift to darker spirits, other approaches are getting an airing. Without giving too much away about their future menu, Gardner says “our May menu definitely leans into a bit of tropical escapism — something to help take your mind off the colder months creeping in.”
Whearty says “as the weather cools we tend to lean into richer serves that are a little more spirit forward but also a couple of different serves that are served warm. One example is a drink we bring back every winter called Apple Mushroom, which is a warm cocktail served from a Japanese coffee syphon that is brewed in front of guests and infuses local mushrooms from the Yarra Valley with a blend of apple brandy, fresh apple juice and apple cider all from the same orchard.”
Good spirits
Perennial performers whisky and dark rum continue to attract customers when the mercury drops, but Australian tastes — and lists — are also changing.
Words Greg Sunning
Photography Caretaker’s Cottage by Ryan Noreiks; Byrdi by Haydn Cattach; The Waratah by Sond3r Film
“As the weather cools we tend to lean into richer serves that are a little more spirit forward.”
– Luke Whearty
While the numbers back up what Whearty and others are seeing behind the bar around the traditional return to darker spirits with some diversifying to mezcal and rums, it’s part of a complex picture. Despite a clear transition towards darker spirits at this time of year, overall spirits sales are facing some headwinds.
Cindy Ngyuen, research analyst at data analytics firm Euromonitor International says that while authenticity and innovation are driving growth in Australian spirits, “darker winter spirits such as rum and whisky are currently facing subdued demand, reflecting changing consumer preferences and strong competition from other categories. However, a growing interest in Australian-made spirits is emerging, driven by a desire for authenticity and regional pride.”
Ngyuen highlights an example, Ned’s Golden Bickie release, a local whisky blend infused with notes of golden syrup, coconut, and oats, reminiscent of the iconic ANZAC biscuit Australians know and love. “The product offers more than just a unique flavour, it evokes a sense of connection and comfort through familiar, nostalgic tastes.”
This sense of nostalgia plays out across Sydney’s The Waratah, an Australiana neighbourhood bar in Darlinghurst. The twostorey venue features a downstairs public bar with a weekly-changing cocktail menu that
focuses on hyper seasonal produce the team source from the market. Upstairs features a restaurant with a completely different cocktail menu that changes every couple of months, focused on a particular Australian region.
“We look at a bunch of producers from that region,” says Albert Rust of The Waratah, “and the best produce from that region, and we turn those into drinks. The drinks are connected to the people, which have a story. It just adds a bit of depth to what we do and reason to the drinks we make.”
Layered on top of the spirit’s story is the prevalence of seasonal ingredients. Back at the Caretaker’s Cottage, Gardner highlights their monthly-changing cocktail list, always influenced by what’s in season and what’s available produce-wise. “We aim for a list where everyone can find something that speaks to them,” says Gardner, “and that more often than not includes a stirred, dark-spirited drink — especially popular as we head into winter. Right now, we’ve got a drink on called the Praying Mantis, made with Starward Two-Fold [whisky], our housemade amaro, ginger, smoke, and lemon. It’s warming, rich, and still super approachable.”
Resurrecting brands, or establishing new ones with stories to tell, is part of an overall intentional approach, says Ngyuen. “Many Australian distilleries are highlighting their
production processes and brand heritage to promote authenticity and foster deeper connections with consumers. They are also taking innovation a step further by expanding into flavoured spirits, leveraging Australia’s natural ingredients and traditional tastes. This strategy allows local distilleries to differentiate themselves from international brands and align with consumers’ growing curiosity about locality.”
“We’ll always champion local and Australian brands,” says Gardner, echoing Euromonitor’s findings. “It’s a great reflection of our people and our place. Brands like Saison, based here in Melbourne, are pushing boundaries within their categories and align really well with the kind of drinks we want to make.”
In Sydney, Rust highlights Enmore’s Ester Spirits, “they make a really, really lovely spiced rum,” he says. “Red Mill as well. They are a rum distillery that closed about, I think, close to 50 years ago, but they only recently reopened [in Sydney] through the great-grandson. They also make a really nice sippable but also just delicious rum that you can throw into a daiquiri or any other rum-based drink.”
While the focus on traditional darker spirits makes a lot of sense, substantial changes in tastes continue to evolve cocktail offerings. Ngyuen says, “The health and wellbeing trend in Australia is reshaping the alcoholic drinks industry, with many Australians, particularly those under 60, reducing their alcohol intake or abstaining altogether.” Euromonitor’s recent Voice of the Consumer Survey shows a growing number of Australians actively seeking to cut back on alcohol consumption, fuelling strong growth in low and no-alcohol options compared to the overall market. “Additionally, consumers are actively seeking healthier alternatives within traditional alcoholic categories, prompting suppliers to innovate,” says Ngyuen.
“Our non-alcoholics sell more than a lot of our alcoholic drinks,”
says Rust. “There’s just a demand for it. And to have a demand for it and not treat them with the same care and respect as you would your alcoholic drinks is a bit of a disservice to your guests, but also to a bar. Our non-alcoholic drinks program at the Waratah is absolutely huge. Calling them mocktails is almost the wrong term now because we put as much craft, time and effort into our non-alcoholic cocktails as we do our alcoholic cocktails.”
At Byrdi, Whearty expands on their approach to nonalcoholic options heading into winter, meeting drinkers where they want to be. “My only tip is to look at non-alcoholic options the same way we do with alcoholic serves. Different things like acidity, sweetness, and even texture and salt content. The same rules still apply. As for reducing sugar and calories, one good way is to look at reducing processed sugars and try to achieve sweetness in ways other than just adding sugar syrup. The simplest way to achieve this is by adding fresh fruit.”
While the rush to ever-reliable whisky and rum in winter continues, Australian drinkers can rightly celebrate a host of exciting new flavours and approaches to tempt them inside venues this year. ■
“We’ll always champion local and Australian brands.” – Kitty Gardner
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BEER & BREWER
Vaughan Mabee
Renowned chef Vaughan Mabee on hyperlocal hunting and provocative plates.
WORDS Laura Box
PHOTOGRAPHY Sam Stewart
WHEN HOSPITALITY MET Vaughan Mabee, it was by chance at an industry dinner during Melbourne Food and Wine Festival. It took us a little too long to realise that the humble chef was actually the Co-Owner and Executive Chef of one of the world’s best restaurants, Amisfield. Mabee’s willingness to humour this naivety is an ingrained part of his modest nature, an attitude which makes the New Zealand-born chef all the more likeable.
During the pork-focussed meal, Mabee brought up an image of what appeared to be a pig’s snout on his phone; lifelike snout pores and all. The dish is one he serves at Amisfield: a wild boar mortadella, served on a boudin noir crumpet with pigs’ liver butter. The chef’s creations are purposefully provocative, aimed at encouraging guests to be more in touch with what they consume.
“The world has changed a lot in the last 20 years since I’ve been a chef. I feel like people don’t really think about what they’re eating enough,” says Mabee. “All this huge factory farming — I’m not saying it’s bad, but there are just so many people that things have got out of balance. I feel like when we showcase our ingredients in a provocative way with some realism, people relate with it more and respect it more.” The bonus? “It tells a more visual story of New Zealand in a way that hasn’t been told before.” Another lifelike rendition comes in the form of the native New Zealand pūtangitangi duck head, hard bill and all. The only catch? It’s actually a duck liver ice cream, and its beak is filled with fermented elderberry jelly (perhaps a reference to iconic Kiwi chocolate, Whittaker’s Jelly Tip).
Recently, influential US magazine Food & Wine named Amisfield third best restaurant in the world. It comes in succession to a run of high calibre awards, including four consecutive Restaurant of the Year (2020-2023) awards from New Zealand’s Cuisine Good Food, a place on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants Discovery 2024, and three hats.
Amisfield Restaurant and Cellar Door sits beside Lake Hayes, between Queenstown and Arrowtown on New Zealand’s South Island. The restaurant is committed to working in harmony with the land and capturing the essence of Central Otago. Each dish is crafted into culinary fine art using ingredients from a select group of fishermen, hunters, gatherers, and farmers, and paired with organic wines from Amisfield Vineyard or international drops. The restaurant’s combination of hyper-local cuisine and creativity is what put the restaurant on the global foodie map — in large part, thanks to Mabee.
Mabee started out in the kitchen like many others – as a teenage dishwasher elbow deep in suds with a long-held love of food, before methodically working his way up the ranks. Prior to joining Amisfield in 2012, the chef worked at leading three Michelin-starred restaurants including Martin Berasategui in Lasarte-Oria outside San Sebastián, and at Noma in Copenhagen. He is ranked with 3 Knives — the highest recognition from The Best Chef Awards.
Showcasing New Zealand’s unique and underutilised produce is a big driver for Mabee, and the chef thinks this is partly what has driven Amisfield’s significant growth and international acclaim. “We focus on finding products that are only available in New Zealand, whether it’s a type of fish or different kinds of spices and things we use from the native forest,” says Mabee. These local products include mushrooms endemic to New Zealand that appear on Amisfield’s Autumn chef’s menu, including Pekepeke which grows in rainforests, Tawaka, which grows on hardwoods like birch, and the Te Ngawata, which is found on the Tāwhai tree.
“All of these mushroom dishes come out attached to the native trees that they grow on. They’re almost like sculptures that we’ve made out of the beech tree, which we call the Tāwai tree, or the Matagouri tree. And when you put it on the table, it feels like you’re in the rainforest.”
During his time working in international Michelin-starred establishments, Mabee noticed that many restaurants would use “crazy ingredients” from all around the world. “It would be the finest Japanese Wagyu, or the best farmed pork. They were the best ingredients that were farmed in places that were sometimes far away.” While the produce was phenomenal, the distance it had to travel didn’t sit well with Mabee. And while locally sourced produce isn’t a new phenomenon, Mabee and his team take it one step further — using produce that is foraged and hunted locally either by the team itself or by local hunters. The goal is to showcase the true flavours of Central Otago.
On his return to New Zealand, the chef began using lambs sourced came from a farm behind Amisfield. But as he thought more about what represents the true flavour of New Zealand, he thought the produce shouldn’t only be local, it should also be wild. “To me, it tastes more free. When I eat a piece of venison and I know where it’s come from, I feel a little bit less guilty about it than if it was farmed and trapped. At least it’s had its own freedom and its own life in this beautiful terrain here and it hasn’t been bred to be eaten.
The Amisfield team now doesn’t source anything from farms. “It’s all wild. So we’ll have wild elk. We have wild red deer. We have wild hare.”
GREAT COFFEE
When asked whether this means certain items might not make it to the menu every night, Mabee points out that the region has far more wildlife than humans. Instead, the main challenge can be the inconsistency in size and flavour, meaning no recipe can ever really be the same. The result, says Mabee, is that his chefs must be more in touch with how they cook and more connected to the product. “It’s a really great way of showcasing the passion we’re trying to create,” says Mabee, “and the ability of the chefs”. The chef recognises that this exercise can’t be done in most of the world — it’s a unique asset of the restaurant’s remote location.
As an avid hunter himself, Mabee practices what he preaches by drawing on his family history of catching fish and game in the wild. “It makes me feel peaceful. I think one of my favourite things to do is to go pheasant hunting or duck hunting with the hunting dog. It gives me the time to relax and clear my mind a bit. Being on the top, it becomes your entire life, and you can’t stop thinking about it. As a creative, it’s just never ending. When I go hunting, I detach myself from that,” says Mabee. The chef also hunts because it’s what he loves to cook for his family. “Whether it’s Sunday and we’re having a pheasant pie, or whether we’re doing venison. It can be anything.”
Hunting for food paints a pastoral picture in one’s mind; and while Amisfield’s rustic stone masonry could evidence this, the building’s A-frame façade is punctuated by a chic, contemporary window which hints at a high level of refinement within. Polished artistry is on show in every course at the restaurant. The chef says creativity has been part of his practice his entire life, but in the last five years he’s managed to develop his own, truly unique style.
“The creative side of being a chef for me is the most important in how we evolve or how we showcase the ingredients in a different way. I really love to make the guests feel like they’re involved in the ingredient more than just putting it into a plate,” says Mabee.
The menu evokes vivid imagery. Alongside the lifelike interpretations of ducks heads, boar snouts, and crayfish, there are more abstract dishes: paua (abalone) saucisson with a distinctive sea-green hue; or the white asparagus cut to resemble a flower or anemone, and charred.
“We serve a lot of our things really outside the box from the way that you see it first. You always eat first with your eyes and that gives the guests a lot of excitement,” says the chef. “Some of our dishes are quite challenging. That style of cuisine has become known for what we do at Amisfield. We really take you into New Zealand in a way that no one’s ever done before. And, it’s working really well.”
It’s taken a huge amount of committed work for Mabee to get to the stage he’s at. “I’ve been [at Amisfield] for about 15 years. It was definitely a slow burn to get it where it is now. And it was hard.” For Mabee, the satisfaction of the job is simple. “It’s about what’s going on inside the restaurant,” says the chef. “The biggest highlight is this feeling you get when all the staff are on the same angle you’re on. Everyone is super passionate and driven. It’s this feeling you get when you have a really beautiful service; You’re sold out and people from all around the world are dining here and you feel absolutely stunned and happy that they can leave with this amazing experience.” ■
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Preserving passion
A deep dive into the extensive fermentation programs of Melbourne restaurants Molli and Freyja.
WORDS Laura Box
PHOTOGRAPHY courtesy of Molli and Freyja
WHEN NOMA RELEASED its lauded Guide to Fermentation in 2018, it reflected an already growing wave of enthusiasts across the industry. The processes hit the mainstream, and it became more common to see house-made kombuchas and garums on Australian menus. Seven years on and the fervour has calmed, seeing many cafes and restaurants simplify the preserves on their menus: perhaps a ploughman’s platter with a fermented pickle and sauerkraut, or a humble kimchi toasty.
But on the other side of the coin, a handful of chefs are ignoring fads in favour of exploring how fermentation has been used for centuries across continents, opting to become leaders in the field and committing to the experimental side of the art. The drivers are manifold for the daring chefs experimenting with niche ferments, from the excitement of discovering new flavour profiles and innovative applications for produce, to the ability to preserve and retain hyperseasonal ingredients for year-round use.
Freyja Executive Chef Jae Bang stresses that fermentation shouldn’t be seen a trend. “It’s been done for hundreds of years in all different cultures and cuisines,” says the chef. Freyja opened in 2022 with Bang at the helm. The chef has an impressive resume, having worked at fine-dining restaurants internationally, including San Sebastian’s Arzak, New York’s Daniel, and one of Norway’s few three Michelin star restaurants, Re-naa. His time in Norway shaped his approach to fermentation: “In Norway, we didn’t do this because it’s a trend or because everyone else was doing it. We were doing it because it was necessary. Having a very short spring and summer when vegetables and fruits are in season, if we didn’t do it, we wouldn’t have any access to these flavour profiles during the wintertime or even early spring.”
This approach has bled into Bang’s tenure at Freyja, where he leads the kitchen with three core tenets: minimal waste, sustainability, and regionality.
For The Mulberry Group’s recently appointed Head Chef of Molli and Group Head of Fermentation Caitlin Koether, the “magical and transformative” nature of the process is what interested her. Koether was first introduced to fermentation when she started working at Blue Hill in New York close to 17 years ago. One of the chefs there was working with whole animal butchery and preserving techniques. A selfdescribed “massive nerd”, Koether is the type of person who finds things she doesn’t understand fascinating. At the time, fermentation was one of those things.
— Jae Bang
“I was reading Harold McGee’s On Food and Cooking at the time. And I knew that I really liked understanding the foundation of why things happen the way that they do. So when the chef was describing what fermentation was and how it’s a little bit uncontrollable and pretty magical and transformative, I found that interesting,” says Koether.
After a stint at San Francisco’s Bar Tartine (a “magical playground of fermentation and food before its time”) and time running the preservation and fermentation program at Copenhagen’s Relæ, her passion was set. Not one to do things by halves, Koether has established a big name in the world of ferments, leading The Mulberry Group to specifically craft her new role around her expertise.
Seasonality
Both chefs note that preserving seasonal produce is a major drawcard of fermentation. While preserving processes were once born out of the necessity, global supply chain networks and innovations in food production means that difficulty sourcing products isn’t a pressing problem in Australian kitchens — yet this accessibility raises concerns around sustainability.
At Freyja, the staff take an annual outing to a local strawberry farm right before Christmas. At that time of year there aren’t many ripe strawberries ready for consumption — but that’s not what the team are there for. Instead, they select unripe, green strawberries specifically for their unique flavour profile: “They’re more floral with a denser texture, higher acidity, and less sweetness. So the versatility of this product is very broad,” says Bang.
When she first began her role, The chef assessed which ferments would take the longest and should be started immediately, and which could be done later. Koether breaks her ferments down into four categories: koji, dairy, pickles, and sodas. Alongside these, she’s also focussing “They will only develop more and more flavour as time goes, because the enzyme and the bacteria growth are going to affect the flavour profile since day one until now.”
Bang adds salt to the green strawberries and puts them through a lactofermentation process. Once preserved, he uses them as a type of caper, because of the pleasant combination of tanginess from the lactic acid and the unripe stage of the fruit. On the current menu, Bang slices the lacto-fermented strawberries to about a half centimetre thick and uses them in a beef tartare dish.
Bang says with the weather being hard to predict in Melbourne, foraging for hyper-seasonal produce can go from successful to impossible within the span of a few days. “By preserving these items, we have longer access to them, and this helps us to support these three philosophies that we are really striving for.”
Koether says that fermentation allows her to preserve rare, hyper-seasonal produce in a variety of ways so they can be enjoyed for longer. One such product is green walnuts. The chef sources the young walnuts from Day's Walk Farm (just outside Melbourne) in December and January. She uses them to produce Nocino, a black walnut liqueur; Glyko Karydaki, a Greek spoon sweet where the green oxidises to become totally black; and English pickled green walnuts which become a versatile, black, almost molasseslike pickle.
Process and product
on a range of techniques that land under the umbrella term of preservation, including dehydration, Maillard reaction, and smoking.
The longest ferments, says Koether, are the ones with higher salt — in particular, koji. “Starting with a higher salt percentage controls the enzymatic actions. Higher salt means slower bacterial movement, which is a good thing,” says Koether. “When we do get that end result, it has a really deep, rich, complex flavour.” In contrast, the fastest are certain types of dairy ferments, which can take just two days.
Currently, Koether’s favourite ferment is her roasted corn miso. She makes it by removing fresh corn off the cob and dehydrating it at a high temperature, giving the kernels a light caramelisation. She turns these kernels into powder — a fresh-corn cornmeal — and then rehydrates it to turn it into miso. “It tastes like this beautiful umami paste of grilled corn, which is something that I grew up with and is totally nostalgic for me,” says Koether.
Bang’s range of ferments also cover a large spectrum. For Lactic fermentation, he uses between two and 20 per cent salt to determine what he wants the product to become. Then there are the koji ferments, which his team uses to produce miso, garum, and shoyu — but without incorporating standard ingredients.
“At the moment, we are using two different types of miso, among many. One of them is pumpkin seed miso. Instead of using the classic soybean like they do in Japan, we replace it with pumpkin seed. It takes about six months for us to get it ready,” says Bang.
The other is a leftover sourdough miso. The leftover sourdough comes from the loaf edges that can’t be served to guests. Following the kitchen’s minimal waste policy, they toast the scraps, mix them with koji and salt, and turn this into miso. It has a variety of uses, including as glaze on Freyja’s pork dish. The miso is layered with five or six different fermented juices, and “you can taste the actual sourdough enzyme,” says Bang.
“Higher salt means slower bacterial movement, which is a really good thing. And when we do get that end result, it has a really deep, rich, complex flavour.” — Caitlin Koether
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“I want to respect where I am and I want to follow the seasonality that nature offers us.” — Jae Bang
Challenges
Despite 12 years of experience, Koether says she’s still learning from the sometimesuncontrollable nature of fermentation. “Although you can set the same standards and processes from one batch to the next of what you’re fermenting, it can go awry at any stage.”
She provides an example of her first batch of kombucha at Molli, which took on ambient yeast from the air, giving it mousy, sulphuric notes.
Fermentation is an ideal way to preserve seasonal produce for year-round use.
Through extensive years of trial and error, the chef has developed a series of troubleshooting techniques and habits to mitigate the unexpected challenges that arise. “I know that if I have a really good lacto-fermented brine that I like the taste of, then I’ll keep reusing that. Also, when you’re fermenting things, there are certain levels of salt that you use that you just know will produce the right results.”
The program at Molli itself is quite extensive, according to Koether, who during this conversation was sitting in a room with 60 litres of lactofermented pickles. “It’s pretty big in the sense that today I took 40 litres of milk to turn into cheese. And I’ll probably do that again next week.”
The trick to increasing production amounts is to start small and repeat the process to build muscle memory, she says. To produce at this scale, ample time, planning, and room for error are crucial.
Just as important, adds Bang, is space.
on Freyja’s shelves — some of which they’ve had since the restaurant opened almost three years ago. “They will only develop more and more flavour as time goes, because the enzyme and the bacteria growth are going to affect the flavour profile since day one until now.”
Bang encourages chefs who wish to start fermenting to stay curious and ask themselves why they want to ferment. Koether recommends looking at fermentation as a seasoning agent.
“Fermentation and decay are actually two sides of the same coin. They are throttling down the same pathway. But when we intervene, we’re basically taking these enzymes and metabolic processes and bacteria and setting them off on a slightly different path while decay goes the opposite way,” says Koether.
Fermented foods include miso, kimchi, tempeh, and kombucha.
Fermented foods are naturally probiotic-rich.
“I feel like I never have enough storage because we preserve all year around. And we don’t preserve small amounts. We picked close to 80 or 90 kilos of green strawberries, which is already a big part of the space,” says Bang.
Bang has hundreds of preserved products
“And the way that we do that is through acetification. So we add salt and sugar... When they do want to utilise it on a menu, consider it an alternative form of salt, sugar, or acidity. And it really will elevate what you’re eating and transform texture, flavour, and colour.” ■
Commercial kitchens are the beating heart of hospitality, so it’s crucial that equipment is up to scratch.
Kitchen kit
IN THE FAST-PACED world of hospitality, kitchens are the beating heart of each operation.
The commercial kitchen can be a high-pressure environment where timing, efficiency, and quality are of the utmost importance, so it’s necessary for staff to have equipment that allows them to optimise processes, maintain consistently high-quality, and ultimately, compete with the best.
When it comes to selecting your equipment, there are a variety of factors to consider, from price and size, to materiality, function, and durability.
For many, a recommendation from a colleague or another business owner goes a long way.
First, business owners need to assess their needs. Are there crucial appliances that your restaurant needs to function, that might not be necessary in other restaurants? Or could your restaurant function without a certain piece of equipment?
For example, when Lottie opened in Sydney’s new Wunderlich Lane precinct earlier this year, Executive Chef Pip Pratt and Head Chef Alejandro Huerta wanted to highlight the significance of tortillas in Mexican food. “Mexican tortillas are probably the most important part of our meals. We use them for everything: for breakfast, for lunch, for dinner, as a side dish, whatever. I think that if we’re able to show Australians what true tortillas
are, they’ll be able to understand why we love tortillas so much.”
To achieve this, they invested in a proper tortilla machine to make the dream of producing a high number of quality tortillas every day a reality. “We are focussing on cooking our tortillas in-house, and we have a proper tortilla machine to do it,” Huerta tells Hospitality. “It’s a big investment in terms of money and time.”
When it comes to deciding on equipment placement, teams need to consider a range of things, from how to best orient the design for their workflow, the most efficient processes, and balancing quality with cost — all while ensuring they are safe and compliant.
In Merrylands, restaurateur Jeremy Agha imported a Berkel meat slicer from Italy for his restaurant Iftar, which opened in January. Because of its aesthetically pleasing design, the machine takes pride of place on display in front of customers allowing it to “become part of our brand”. “Little notes like this have made it easier for our name to get out there in such a short period of time,” says Agha.
Kitting out a commercial kitchen can be a daunting task. To assist, Hospitality has delved into some of the game-changing innovations and reliable equipment that can help your kitchen stay ahead of the game and meet the demands of the rapidly changing market.
LEGACY | DURABILITY | PERFORMANCE
Modular Cooktop
Flexible open burner, griddle, or chargrill configuration options
Fully Welded Surrounds for griddle and chargrill option
Open Burners
33MJ power with centred flame ports for even heat
Streamlined Design
Sleek bullnose, cool-touch knobs and handles
Repositioned Trivets
Smarter layout for easier multitasking
Oven Options
Static, fan-forced, or convection
Fully Welded Stainless Steel Construction
Built tough for daily commercial use
TURN UP THE HEAT!
Interior Enamelling
Fully enamelled oven and doors for easy cleaning
Australian Made Goldstein Gas X-Series commercial cooking equipment is built for kitchens that demand performance and reliability. With powerful 33MJ open burners, fully welded stainless steel construction and a streamlined design, it’s made to handle the heat all day, every day.
The Goldstein X-Series delivers lasting performance, reliability and durability across a full range of ovens, cooktops, griddles and chargrills. Goldstein – Built for a lifetime.
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Autec ASM895CE
Elevate your culinary creations with the Autec ASM895CE, the ultimate sushi machine designed for efficiency and precision. Supplied by Sushi Machines, this innovative equipment transforms the art of sushi making into a seamless process, ensuring consistent quality with every roll. The ASM895CE boasts advanced technology that mimics the traditional hand-rolling technique, delivering perfect sushi rolls at the touch of a button. Its user-friendly interface and compact design make it ideal for both professional kitchens and sushi enthusiasts looking to enhance their craft.
With the Autec ASM895CE, you can increase productivity without compromising on taste or texture. Imagine serving beautifully crafted sushi to your customers, delighting their palates, and boosting your reputation. Join the revolution in sushi making today and take your kitchen to new heights. sushimachines.com.au; autec.jp
Kuvings CS700
The Kuvings CS700 is the commercial cold press juicer designed for busy hospitality environments. Featuring an industrial-grade stainless-steel body, an 88mm extra-wide feed chute, and a quiet, durable 200-watt motor, it delivers maximum yield with minimal prep. NSF-certified for food safety, the CS700 meets the highest hygiene standards, making it ideal for cafés, juice bars, hotels, and restaurants. Designed for continuous 24-hour operation, it’s built to handle the pressures of a fast-paced kitchen while maintaining the fresh flavour and nutrition of every ingredient.
Melanie T, a café owner, shares, “Best money ever spent. I use it at my café and it is amazing. Thanks Kuvings for such a great product. I’m so glad I did my research and found this juicer.” Upgrade your business with a juicer trusted by professionals around the world. kuvings.com.au
Olivo
Streamline your cold chain with Olivo’s innovative solutions for transporting and storing chilled, frozen, and ambient food products. Designed specifically for the food industry, including producers, restaurants, pubs, and caterers, Olivo helps reduce costs while maintaining food integrity from kitchen to destination.
Exclusively available through CoolPac Australia, Olivo eliminates the need for costly refrigerated trucks, making your food transport safer, simpler, and more cost-effective. coolpac.com; 1300 266 555
Eco-Friendly
No power needed. Lower emissions, lower costs.
Simplified Transport
One truck, multiple temps. No refrigeration required.
Long-Lasting & Durable
Keeps food safe for 70+ hours. Built to last.
Miele Professional Passthrough Dishwasher
Built for rush hour. Make sure crockery doesn’t pile up in the kitchen thanks to the Miele Professional Passthrough Dishwasher with a cycle time of just 50 seconds. Designed for continuous operation thanks to high-quality materials and innovative technology, the PTD 901 can manage more than 100 cycles a day with ease. Whether crockery, glasses, trays or pots and pans: a high final rinse temperature of 85°C ensures exemplary hygiene and precision drying, irrespective of the load type. miele.com.au
Metro Shelving
Streamline your hospitality operation with Metro’s hygienic, modular shelving — engineered for performance and exclusively distributed in Australia by Stoddart. For over 80 years, Metro has been a global leader in commercial kitchen storage and transport solutions. Metro’s innovative range includes modular and mobile shelving, dunnage racks, and food storage solutions — designed to optimise space, improve workflow, and ensure safety across hospitality, healthcare, and aged care environments.
Metro products feature built-in Microban® antimicrobial protection, offering lifetime resistance against bacteria, mould, and fungi. This NSF-certified technology helps reduce odours, stains, and product degradation, making Metro shelving a hygienic and durable choice for high-demand kitchens. From the versatile Super Erecta® wire shelving to the dishwasher-safe Max Q polymer mat systems, Metro delivers modular, corrosionresistant solutions backed by industry-leading warranties. stoddart.com.au
The complete kitchen
sleek design. Now, Comcater proudly brings the Mareno M1 range to the Australian foodservice industry. Designed to revolutionise everyday kitchen operations, the M1 range combines cutting-edge innovation with timeless elegance. Key features include intuitive LED indicators that signal heating status, Mareno’s iconic anti-spill edge that prevents liquids and dirt from compromising the equipment, and a seamless joint gasket to prevent debris from seeping between modules — resulting in high-performance, easy-tomaintain equipment.
Whether you operate in a compact space or a large-scale kitchen, the M1 adapts effortlessly to any setting, offering gas, electric, or induction options. This refined range doesn’t just keep pace with modern kitchens — it sets a new standard, redefining performance, efficiency, and design for the kitchens of tomorrow. comcater.com.au/mareno-m1-launch
Goldstein X-Series
For over 100 years, Goldstein has been a trusted name in Australian made commercial kitchen equipment, known for its performance, durability and reliability. The Goldstein X-Series is engineered to deliver peak productivity, featuring powerful 33MJ open burners and a streamlined design that combines durability with modern elegance.
With customisable cooktops and ovens, it supports a wide range of cooking techniques, offering flexibility for diverse kitchen layouts. Designed for professional kitchens, the X-Series includes flexible oven ranges, cooktops, griddles, and chargrills in gas or electric models. Its modular design ensures seamless integration into various kitchen environments, maximising space, efficiency, and productivity.
Built to excel under even the toughest conditions, the X-Series adapts to every challenge with durable construction and reliable performance. With a 2-year warranty, Goldstein guarantees equipment that consistently delivers outstanding results, day after day. Goldstein — built for a lifetime. middleby.com.au ■
Culinary counsel
Top chefs share tips for success with industry newcomers.
LONG HOURS, A fast-paced environment, and a sometimes unpredictable industry can prove challenging for even the most seasoned chefs. Hospitality hears from some of the industry’s best to find out their tips for young chefs looking to progress their careers.
Giuseppe Fuzio, a’Mare
Giuseppe Fuzio has come a long way from the dishwashing days of his youth in Italy. The Puglia native has garnered experience across hotels, casual eateries, and Michelin-starred restaurants during his time working across Italy (from the seaside to the alps), the UK, Japan, and finally Australia. Fuzio recently joined Maestro Hospitality as the executive chef of celebrated Sydney seafood restaurant a’Mare.
“One of the things that I’ve always said to my team is to be hungry and be curious. Working in a different environment could be a great start, then find the right mentor that helps you to grow… and keep studying. Sign up for different courses, open your mind, read books, and dream big. Everything else will come next,” says Fuzio.
David Boyle, Northside Group
David Boyle cut his teeth at Michelin Star restaurants in Dublin and Kilkenny, before working at Corrigans Mayfair in London. After moving to Victoria, he worked at Matt Germanchis’ Pei Modern, The Lake House in Daylesford, Ôter, and Alejandro Saravia’s Pastuso and Farmer’s Daughters. Earlier this year, he stepped into the executive chef position at Melbourne’s Northside Group.
“Being consistent is extremely important to your progression. The worst thing is to have a chef come in really focused and motivated one day then come in the next and be a total mess. Keep your eyes open and watch what’s going on around you. Oftentimes, kitchens are short staffed, and you might get thrown in on another section, so always try to learn as much as you can about the sections around you so when that inevitably happens, you’ll be ready,” says Boyle.
“Taste your food and be self-critical. Have the restraint not to send a guest something if it’s not right. Chefs are often harsh critics towards other restaurants’ food but in the heat of the moment don’t pull themselves up on their own mistakes. If you wouldn’t be happy getting the food, don’t send it,” the chef concludes.
Eleftheria Amanatidis, Eleni’s Kitchen and bar
Eleftheria Amanatidis’ family has a significant, multi-generational history in Yarraville’s food scene. After her parents moved from Greece and settled in the Melbourne suburb in the 1960s, they opened a Greek taverna, which quickly became a social hub for the community. Looking to continue her family’s tradition of providing communitycentric Greek food, Amanatidis opened Eleni’s Kitchen and bar with her sister. Like their parents’ restaurant, it quickly became a beloved local hotspot. Amanatidis encourages young people, especially women in the industry to “just go for it”.
“The hospitality industry is such a great learning and life experience. You meet so many different people from all different walks of life. It gave me a lot of confidence and taught me how to stand up for myself and be confident in who I am. Whether it’s a career change like it was for me or if you’re just starting out, just do it and take every opportunity as it comes.”
Vaughan Mabee, Amisfield
Vaughan Mabee is considered among the world’s best chefs. The chef boasts experience at globally renowned restaurants like three Michelin-starred Martin Berasategui and Copenhagen’s Noma. Since joining Amisfield in 2012, the chef and co-owner has garnered a reputation for his use of locally foraged and hunted produce, and creative service. Mabee says chefs who are new to the industry need to “be a sponge to take everything in”.
“Everyone talks about work-life balance, but when you’re young, you really need to involve yourself as much as you can so you can learn as much as you possibly can. Being a chef is not an easy job, whatever direction you go, whether it’s fine dining or other angles. When you’re young, you need to put in the work, and you really need to be open to learning every little thing,” says Mabee.
“I think if I could go back in my career, maybe I would have travelled a little bit more. I did work quite a lot around the world, from the States, to Spain, to Copenhagen. But I think I would have spread my wings even more.”
“When you’re young, you need to put in the work, and you really need to be open to learning every little thing.”
– Vaughan Mabee
“If you don’t repeat the behaviour and the action multiple times and don’t develop the muscle memory around the nuances, you won’t get the full scope of the learning process.”
– Caitlin Koether
Caitlin Koether, Molli
Caitlin Koether is one of Australia’s leading fermentation experts. The Mulberry Group recently appointed Koether group head of fermentation and executive chef for Molli Abbotsford. For chefs beginning to learn about fermentation on a small scale, she recommends learning every detail about the process.
“You learn this as a chef: If you don’t repeat the behaviour and the action multiple times and don’t develop the muscle memory around the nuances, you won’t get the full scope of the learning process. So when you start, make sure you’re doing the same thing repeatedly so that you can learn the variations between each batch. Once it becomes a natural process in the back of your brain, then move on to the next one,” advises Koether.
“For chefs starting out, I wouldn’t recommend doing Koji ferments because they’re very labour intensive. You have to have a lot of knowledge around the processes. But if you take vegetables and stick them in a 3 per cent salt solution, you’ll be producing litres of pickles in no time.”
Natali Mikailo ğ lu, Sydney Seaplanes
Ex-Boathouse chef Natali Mikailo ğ lu joined Sydney Seaplanes earlier this year as head chef. She offers two pieces of advice to young chefs looking to advance their career. Firstly, she says, it’s important to become accustomed to challenges and to enjoy overcoming them.
“Every day, there will be something new, something different, a curveball nobody was expecting and often, it’s not even related to your food. Enjoying the day-to-day challenges allows you to become a problem-solver. It’s a great skill to have in any profession or industry, and in hospitality, when paired with a love of food and creating, it will help you to remain calm even during the most stressful of services,” says the chef.
Secondly, it’s crucial to be aware of details: “Major, minor, and everything in between. Whether it’s something on (or not on) the plate, or a process in the kitchen. It demonstrates a broader understanding of the kitchen, the team, what you’re trying to achieve with your food and the whole venue experience for the guests.”
“Hard work is the recipe for success.”
– Samuel Rozsnyoi
Samuel Rozsnyoi, Chiswick
Samuel Rozsnyoi has enjoyed stints at Saint Peter, Fred’s, Café Paci, and Dear Saint Eloise. Now, he’s taken over as Chiswick head chef under the eye of Matt Moran. Moran, who had been watching Rozsnyoi’s progression for some time, said he brought the chef on board because of his passion for produce-driven cooking and his talent for creating dishes that are both refined and approachable.
“Go above and beyond. Initiative is priceless, and everyone will notice if you’re going out of your way and working hard. Hard work is the recipe for success,” says Rozsnyoi. ■
Golden opportunities
Words Annabelle Cloros and Laura box
FEW COMPETITIONS COMMIT to championing young chefs with the longevity and success that Nestle’s Golden Chef’s Hat Award has. The competition promises contestants mentoring from experienced chefs, the opportunity to grow skills and networks, and the potential to win over $38,000 in prizes. As entries open for the 60th year of the prestigious awards, Hospitality hears from past winners who have gone on to be leaders in their fields.
“I’m in this industry because it’s what I’m passionate about and that’s what I come back to at the end of a tough shift.” – Jake Kellie
Jake Kellie
Photography Jason Loucas and Duy Huynh
JAKE KELLIE IS one of Australia’s top culinary talents. He spent years working at Michelin-star fine diner Burnt Ends in Singapore, making his way up to the head chef position before returning to Adelaide to open his first restaurant Arkhé in 2021. But before all the accolades came, Kellie’s decision to become a chef was rooted in a simple joy – “I loved eating,” he says. “I did food tech at school, and I really got into it. I ended up winning a local award around that time and it showed me that a culinary career was something I could have a crack at. I started an apprenticeship and never looked back.”
In 2014, Kellie entered Nestle’s Golden Chef’s Hat Award competition. “It sounded like a great program to be a part of,” he says. “I was keen to meet new people and inspiring young chefs. The guys I cooked against were great, and we still keep in touch.” Kellie was a 2014 finalist and says he “100 per cent” recommends the program to up-and-coming chefs. “It’s a great thing to get involved with if you’re a young chef who’s passionate about the industry.”
Along with meeting new people and refining his competitive skills, Kellie took away a sentiment that’s stayed with him for nearly 10 years. “It taught me the value of remembering why you’re doing something,” he says. “I’m in this industry because it’s what I’m passionate about and that’s what I come back to at the end of a tough shift.”
Arkhé has made a huge impact on Adelaide’s dining scene since it opened in Norwood just over three years ago, serving as both a culinary destination and a restaurant where guests can enjoy food and drink from other leading hospitality professionals, thanks to its series of one-off events. Continuous improvement is at the heart of the restaurant, with Kellie leading and motivating the team to strive for excellence. “My role is about making sure [we] are constantly evolving,” he says. “We love a pop-up and have collaborated with some incredible people, brands, and restaurants in recent years.”
As for some final words of advice? “Make sure you’re passionate,” Kellie says. “You’re going to have to make a lot of sacrifices if you want to be a chef. You also need to be willing to learn and be consistent.”
Shane Middleton
SHANE MIDDLETON IS a two-time winner of the Nestle Golden Chef’s Hat Award, securing the top honour in 2009 and in 2010. He cut his teeth in the kitchens of Dinner by Heston London and Melbourne, The Royal Perth, and QT Perth before taking on his current role as head chef of Papi Katsu, a Japanese fusion restaurant.
There’s no doubt Middleton has had an illustrious career as a chef so far, which is a credit to his drive and culinary talent — both of which were put to the test during his time participating in the Nestle Golden Chef’s Hat Award program. “Back then, I was 19 and looking to boost my career and my confidence,” he says. “These competitions are a good way to experience a different type of pressure because you’re showcasing the skills you’ve learned, as well as your personality. You also network and meet other chefs and mentors you look up to. It opened so many doors for me and was a great experience.”
The competition provided a platform for Middleton to refine and develop his skillset as a chef thanks to the different challenges he took part in. “There’s lots of different aspects — it’s not a normal service,” he says. “Presentation, cleanliness, and how you work under pressure all gets judged. It is challenging at times, but once you get into the groove of it, it does become really fun.”
Middleton and his teammate Cameron Wetton won a trip to Chile to attend the World Association of Chefs Societies event in Santiago, an experience he describes as “phenomenal”. The pair joined thousands of culinary professionals from across the globe to discover valuable insights. “I have flashbacks of walking into the stands and seeing all these people you look up to,” he says. “You see the food scene, but you don’t really get to live it, so when you get to experience it, it’s extremely humbling to be a part of it.”
For those unsure about entering the Golden Chef’s Hat competition, there’s much to look forward to — pushing your boundaries, meeting like-minded peers, and being in with a chance to win the top honour is just the beginning. “It can be daunting, but if you don’t take a risk, there won’t be any rewards,” says Middleton. “Win or lose, it doesn’t matter. You can’t pay for the skills and lessons you learn.”
As for some tips from a past winner? Middleton says participants
“Win or lose, it doesn’t matter. You can’t pay for the skills and lessons you learn.” – Shane Middleton
shouldn’t be afraid to try something different. “Stepping out of your comfort zone and doing something you wouldn’t usually do is probably the biggest thing you gain from the competition,” he says. “Unless you work in a Michelin-star restaurant, you aren’t putting the same amount of effort into standard dishes because it’s extremely time-consuming. When you’re in the competition, you focus on a few plates of food for three hours, so you can put as much time and effort into making them absolutely perfect. Just go in there and give it all you’ve got.”
SINCE OPENING BETHANY Claire Cakes in Narre Warren, Victoria almost 15 years ago, Bethany Neumann has consistently approached her business with one main goal: to ensure style never exceeds substance.
The seasoned chef has a wealth of experience under her belt. Growing up, Neumann gravitated towards baking, helping her mother and grandma in the kitchen as soon as she was old enough. “It’s creative and hands on and I just found that I had both a love and a knack for it. It honestly seemed like the natural path for me to pursue,” says the chef.
She went on to complete an apprenticeship in commercial cookery at a Sofitel restaurant, where she carried on in the pastry team after her training ended. At just 20, Neumann competed in the Nestlé Golden Chefs Hat Awards, taking out the national prize — an experience she names as a career highlight. “It really cemented that turning my passion for cooking into a career was the right move for me.” Since, she’s worked in an array of commercial settings, from fine dining to banqueting, catering, a la carte dining, and cafes.
Neumann recalls a time before she founded her business, when she staged in a New York molecular gastronomy restaurant. “I remember eating in the restaurant before the stage and they had this dish on the menu that was basically a beef short rib that had been boned, cooked, blended, reconstructed and glazed into a perfect looking short rib on the bone,” says Neumann. “It was hours of work and although an amazing feat of fine detail, it didn’t taste better than just a delicious, perfectly braised short rib. That, and many other similar experiences have stuck with me and I have always tried to make sure that with whatever I make, its style should never exceed its substance.”
Bethany Neumann
With social media making society ever more visually focussed, the task isn’t always easy, but it’s a path Neumann hasn’t veered from. Many of her desserts are nostalgic pastries that came from her mother’s and grandmother’s recipes. “It’s not uncommon for people who visit me at the markets to bust out a story (and often some tears) about the memories they have connected to something I’ve made. That’s 100 per cent the reaction that keeps me doing what I’m doing,” says Neumann. While her products are often traditional, she draws on the processes and applications she learnt in restaurants over the years. “It’s not spherified, quenelled, deconstructed or sous vide. But knowing how to do those things gives you options,” says Neumann.
“Competing is challenging and exciting and teaches you so many things from teamwork and time management, to thinking on the fly and improvisation.”
– Bethany Neumann
For young chefs just entering the industry, Neumann says the Nestlé Golden Chefs Hat Awards can give them the opportunity to improve skills in ways they might never expect. “It was amazing to be with lots of other apprentices in the same boat as you. It can be a bit of a lonely experience when you’re at the bottom of the kitchen food chain,” says Neumann. “Competing is challenging and exciting and teaches you so many things from teamwork and time management, to thinking on the fly and improvisation. I felt that the structure of the Nestlé Golden Chefs Hat program really celebrated apprentices and gave us a chance to shine.” ■
Fired up
The Saracen’s Head Hotel update included the addition of an outdoor smoker, offering patrons a unique dining experience that doesn’t break the bank.
WORDS Molly Nicholas
BACK IN DECEMBER, Duxton Pubs unveiled a major renovation for Adelaide CBD pub The Saracen’s Head Hotel, retaining its rich heritage while reinvigorating the dining and bar spaces.
Marking the first major renovation of the pub since Duxton’s acquisition in 2021, the update was intended to expand the pub’s reach, with a revised food and beverage offering being a significant focus of the overhaul.
Complementing the classic pub fare served in the dining room, the pub reopened with the addition of a Yoder smoker in the beer garden — introducing a new element to the traditional pub offer and making the pub more of a destination.
Initially, the kitchen team experimented with smokehouse dishes through themed weekend functions, before launching the Sarrie’s Smokehouse menu — a permanent addition to the daily food and beverage offering.
“We had the smoker around 2-3 months prior to launching the new menu and smokehouse offers to ensure there was time to trial, test, refine and develop the best and highest quality items for our customers,” said Brendan Boothroyd, executive chef and GM of kitchen operations. “For the chef team, this time period was a lot of fun — many a rib smoked, some brisket eaten, sauces custom made, and beers tried alongside — quality control at its finest.”
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Operational considerations
Introducing such a specialised, expensive piece of cooking equipment can be daunting for any pub operator, but for Duxton Pubs, the experience has been smooth sailing. By creating weekend specials, the kitchen team were able to familiarise themselves with the smoker before developing the new smokehouse menu, and from an operational perspective, there have been very few challenges.
“[The Yoder is an] offset smoker with excellent thermostat controls to enable us to control temperatures which ensures consistency — this is why we went with the higher grade of technology. This was the key equipment purchased to execute the concept, of course along with high quality meat products from local suppliers,” said Boothroyd.
“The location being in the beer garden [means the smoker] has not caused any troubles with ventilation. One of the challenges is ensuring we get timings correct in terms prep and planning, but compliance wise, the Yoder smoker is low and slow. It isn’t hot, we are not cooking at high temps — it’s actually become a feature in the beer garden space that customers enjoy sitting around, plus the additional flow-on benefit is the smoker adds a great smell element,” Boothroyd added.
“Because it is low and slow, we can utilise our skillset, like making our own rubs and sauces, and cooking slow allows us to be somewhat more cost effective.”
– Brendan Boothroyd
A budget-friendly experience
Making use of the Yoder smoker, the Sarrie’s Smokehouse menu features dishes like pork pastrami ribs, beef brisket, pulled pork, Alabama half chicken and smoked cauliflower. On the menu, no individual dish costs more than $20.
Considering the initial outlay for the equipment, continually rising meat prices and ever-increasing operating costs, the menu is extremely affordable, and according to Boothroyd, the group made a conscious decision not to pass these costs on to the consumer.
“It’s not about expense to the customer with purchase of equipment or tools to deliver — it’s about delivering an exceptional product, experience, and value to the customer. Adding another layer to what we can produce and deliver is a point of difference to other venues not only in the CBD but within our group.”
With the pub itself absorbing these increases, cost management was an important consideration when developing the menu.
“Barbecue has become popular, so items like ribs have become more expensive as an example. Essentially, we have to manage the relationships with our suppliers, and how we engineer and develop our menu items,” added Boothroyd.
“Because it is low and slow, we can utilise our skillset, like making our own rubs and sauces, and cooking slow allows us to be somewhat more cost effective.”
Affirming the group’s decision, the Sarrie’s Smokehouse menu has been a hit since its launch, drawing in patrons with its rich flavours and affordable pricing.
“The smokehouse board has been a hit — the communal dining concept and sharing has been really popular and encouraged in the venue. Plus, being a CBD pub venue, our everyday pub menu has benefited by having some smoked elements in those core pub classics like burgers,” Boothroyd concluded. ■
This story originally ran in our sister publication Australian Hotelier.
Service tray
Can
Lightweight and easy for front-ofhouse staff to carry
Timeless design which
Raised rim prevents
Sander Nooij
I BEGAN WORKING with Bentley Restaurant Group five years ago when I had attained my permanent residence after being sponsored by Quay, and was looking for the next opportunity. My friend and now business partner, Mark Hanover, had worked at Bentley for a while and is friends with Brent. Mark connected us, and it just so happened that Brent was looking for a new head chef at Yellow.
The idea for Mark and me to start a restaurant together began some years ago, when we were running pop-ups together. So, when The Bentley Restaurant Group approached us last year and asked if we’d consider buying Yellow, we felt that was the right opportunity for us. This is a restaurant I have already invested a great amount of passion into, and I am excited to see where we can take it.
Although I am not vegan or vegetarian, I do grapple with the ethics of eating animals and think that what we are doing to the animals in the bio industry is reprehensible. After Covid we went completely vegan at Yellow, considering it a temporary move. It turned out to be a very interesting challenge that forced us to develop new techniques. Since then we have cemented the vegan offer and have come quite a long way in our work — but there is an almost infinite ground still to cover.
We very rarely repeat our dishes and are working toward a faster pace of change. One of the things that we would really like to develop is our larder, so right now we’re pickling,
The Yellowhouse building has a very rich history, and we are proud to be the next custodians to carry the torch. ■
jamming, canning, and fermenting the summer bounty so we can use them in the winter months. This will be an ongoing process and very necessary if we want to keep the menu local over winter.
We have arrived at where we are very intentionally. Rather than making big changes, we will focus on deeper integration with local supply, more sustainable practices and incremental improvement. As part of this we have also cleaned up the front of the restaurant and done some renovations. We are even updating our language and have decided to accentuate the inclusive nature of the restaurant by describing the style as ‘botanical cuisine’. Though we love the vegan community, it is important to us to be here for everyone.
The Yellowhouse building has a very rich history, and we are proud to be the next custodians to carry the torch. We hope people will trust that they will have a great experience dining at Yellow, thus allowing us to constantly improve well into the future. The response of everyone we spoke to has been overwhelmingly positive. I think I can speak for both of us when I say that we are incredibly grateful for all the support we are getting. We hope we can make a positive impact on the Sydney hospitality scene. ■
The Dutch head chef shares his journey from cook to co-owner of renowned vegan restaurant Yellow.
