Direct (3009) gourmet BUN 4.5" Soft white, seeded & glazed
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Direct (3010)
brioche style bun 4.5"
Sweet buttery taste & glazed
Distributor (9295)
Direct (2011)
Regulars
8 // IN FOCUS
John Leverink on truffle season at Beltana Farm.
10 // NEWS
The latest openings, books, events, and more.
12 // BEST PRACTICE
Overseas service hacks that can be applied locally.
14 // PRODUCE
All about the ever-peppery salad green Mizuna.
18 // Thirst quenchers, slow sippers, and all things beverage related.
20 //
How savoury cocktails are becoming guest favourites.
24 // Etta’s Hannah Green on lessons learned and her new venue.
56 // The timeless sundae cup.
58 // Chef Mark LaBrooy.
A shred above the rest
Flexible shred pieces for convenience and versatility
Ideal ‘all-rounder’ for a range of applications
Smooth taste with a mild cheddar flavour
Great stretch with melt in mouth texture
Consistent golden caramelisation when heated
White style shred
A note from the editor
IT’S BEEN JUST over eight years since I have took on the role of editor of Hospitality, and the time has come for me to depart a magazine I’ve cherished being a custodian of. Goodbyes are always difficult, but I’m a big believer that the best changes are the result of the hardest decisions. There are too many highlights from such a long stint – sitting in the same room as Gordon Ramsay, attending The World’s 50 Best Restaurants in Singapore, and interviewing Marco Pierre White are just a few. But on a day-to-day level, it’s been a privilege to share the stories of chefs, business owners, and hospitality professionals who make up an
industry that’s nothing short of inspiring. I’m pleased to announce my colleague Laura Box as Hospitality’s new editor. It marks a new beginning for the brand, and I can’t wait to see what’s next.
As always, the print edition is full of quality content and insights – read on for a profile on Etta’s Hannah Green, a look at one of my all-time favourite ingredients mizuna, and features on savoury cocktails and pastries with a difference. Signing off,
Annabelle Cloros Managing Editor
Simon York T: 02 8586 6163 syork@intermedia.com.au
GROUP ART DIRECTOR –LIQUOR AND HOSPITALITY Kea Webb-Smith kea@intermedia.com.au
PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper jacqui@intermedia.com.au
New opening Akti has joined the Finger Wharf precinct in Sydney.
ROUNDING OUT THE NIGHT Smoked eel tart at Circl in Melbourne.
Truffle terroir
Canberra hospitality juggernaut John Leverink shares the ins and outs of the territory’s truffle season.
WORDS Laura Box PHOTOGRAPHY James Souter
FETCHING UPWARDS OF $2000 per kilo, truffles are an extremely high-value crop – well above its fungi cousins like morels, which sit around $150-$200 per kilo. Despite the high return, truffle production is expensive, labour intensive, and requires ongoing irrigation through summer and autumn. It can take up to seven years for the fungi to fruit – if it fruits at all.
In 1993, Duncan Garvey and Peter Cooper planted Australia’s first oak and hazelnut trees inoculated with French truffle spores on a property owned by Tim and Adele Terry in northern Tasmania. Six years later, they harvested what is oft quoted as the nation’s first French black truffle or Périgord truffle. It was the beginning of Australia’s truffle industry, which, according to The Australian Truffle Industry Association, has since grown to be the fourth largest in the world. Just over three decades on and the 21st Journal of Agriculture and Food Research estimates there are more than 450 truffieres (truffle orchards) across the country except for the Northern Territory.
In the northern Canberra suburb of Pialligo, Beltana Farm’s Doug and Alice O’Mara were looking for a unique crop for their property.
They originally considered establishing an apple orchard — a common crop in Pialligo — before landing on truffles instead.
Truffles are very particular about location, requiring moderate yearround rainfall, warm summers, and cold winters that have some frost; wet winters don’t suit. Truffles thrive on sloping sites in well-drained, calcareous soil with an alkaline pH level. Canberra’s continental climate, uniform rainfall, and winter frost means it’s ideal for growing the subterranean fungus, and the nation’s capital has consequently become known for its truffle production over the last two decades. ACT hospitality juggernaut John Leverink (chef and co-owner of The Boat House, Ramen Daddy, and Canteen) came on board as the executive chef and co-owner of Beltana Farm in March 2024, and estimates there are now 15 to 20 truffle farms in the region.
“[The O’Maras] did a fair bit of research and knew Canberra had a good climate for growing truffles but their soils were quite fertile, which is something you don’t want for truffles,” says Leverink. To alter the “fertile” soil, the O’Maras added a substantial amount of lime. They then planted a mixture of 800 oak and hazelnut trees inoculated with black truffle, and the six-year waiting game began. After the truffle crop was established, Beltana Farm restaurant opened with Leverink at the helm. The chef incorporates truffle year-round on the menu, with complementary products like truffle honey, truffle salt, and
“If it’s nice and pungent and you can smell it through the soil, you keep digging.” – John Leverink
salted truffle caramel sauce available from the farm’s shop. “I think I used more than 10 kilos of truffles last year, which is quite a bit,” says the chef.
Harvesting
This year stayed unseasonably warm later than usual in Canberra, with the first frost hitting in late May. “The frost prompts the onset of the truffles,” says Leverink. “You need that really cold icy snap for the truffles to start to ripen.” The yield can be unpredictable and is heavily reliant on the season’s temperatures.
When harvesting truffles, the quality is evaluated based on aroma. “Aroma is a key indicator on how good the truffle is,” says Leverink. “It’s a pungent, almost-petrol, kerosene, earthy aroma.” Leverink compares the truffle variation between farms to wine terroir, with the sense of place imparted on the truffles. “When I smell other farms’ truffles, they’re all very distinct. We might go down the track of having a truffle sommelier one day.”
Once harvested, truffles are categorised under grades A, B, and C. “When grading, you’re looking for the colour,” says Leverink. “You want a dark, almost-black flesh to the truffle, and then you want bright white marbling throughout.” Leverink says the best truffles come in the middle of the season as earlier products have a less-intense flavour.
Beltana Farm has two dogs trained to detect ripe truffles. Once a dog has located a truffle, the handler digs around the truffle without disturbing it and uses their own nose to determine if it’s ready for harvest. “If it’s nice and pungent and you can smell it through the soil, you keep digging,” says Leverink. “Otherwise, you leave it there, mark it, and come back in a week’s time. If you dig it up and it’s not good, there’s not much you can do with it. An underripe truffle doesn’t have the right flavour characteristics and you can’t put it back in.”
Currently Beltana produces only black French truffles, but other farms in Orange and Oberon have successfully grown Alba truffles, a semi-white form of the fungus. “We’ll probably plant some more trees and possibly try to get the spore and grow some white truffles. There’s also a summer truffle... but I’m not sure it’s possible here.” White truffles are typically more expensive and have a lighter appearance and a garlicky scent.
Pairing and additional products
Leverink has a range of preservation methods to ensure black truffle is available in some form year-round. One technique is freeze drying, although he says it alters the flavour: “It probably enhances some of the flavour, but not the fresh truffle flavour.” Leverink believes the best medium to preserve truffle in is honey. Truffle honey is used in dressings, sauces, and desserts like the truffle honey cheesecake, which is served with strawberries and crème fraiche to cut through the richness. They also freeze truffles in milk, which can then be used later in tarts and ice creams. “Anything heavy in fat: cream, butter, and eggs are great with truffle. The truffle grabs onto the proteins and takes the flavour a lot further.” The team also produces truffle brie, truffle toasty sandwiches, truffle salt, truffle butter, white chocolate and truffle caramel sauce, and truffle salami.
Although Leverink is an avid fan of truffles, even his interest begins to wane come August. “By the end of truffle season, you’re happy for it to be over,” he says. “The aroma’s pretty intoxicating.” ■
Entrée
The latest openings, books, events and more.
EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros
Hunter St. Hospitality announces new venue
Many high-end restaurants across the world focus on just one dish, but the concept isn’t so familiar to Sydneysiders — until now. Hunter St. Hospitality has decided to go all in on steak frites and take a leaf out of Le Relais de l’Entrecôt’s book. 24 York serves just one main: a 220g MB2+ O’Connor scotch fillet accompanied by fries and a choice of sauce for $48. CEO Frank Tucker says the concept was developed in response to the changing needs of diners. “What people want now — especially in this part of the city — is certainty, quality, and value,” he says. The venue has a fouroption wine list and a selection of classic cocktails and tap beers.
Photography by Chris Pearce
Rare drops
P&V Wine + Liquor Merchants has teamed up with wine technology company Enomatic for a month-long tasting series at its wine bar L’Avant Cave in Paddington. Guests will be able to try vintage, small-batch, and rare wines by the glass from producers including Sami-Odi, Ganevat, and Rinaldi until 3 August. “At P&V, we’re all about making exceptional wine more accessible, and more fun,” says Co-Owner Mike Bennie. “This tasting series is a total gamechanger for us. It means people can come in and try the kind of rare, wild, and wonderful wines we usually only whisper about across the counter.” pnvmerchants.com
Modern Australian Baking
Sweet, Savoury, Seasonal & Native
Christopher Thé
Hardie Grant Books; $60
Founder of Black Star Pastry and Owner of Hearthe cake shop and bakery Christopher Thé has penned a new book that champions local bounty. “My aim is to show you how native ingredients can become a valuable part of your everyday baking and bring you closer to the food this land has to offer,” says the pastry chef. Modern Australian Baking features a guide to native ingredients, pantry essentials, supplier information, and both sweet and savoury recipes including green ant lamingtons, macadamia and bunya nut brownies with Ooray plum, paperbark cake, and lamb shank turnovers.
The World’s 50 Best Restaurants counts down to number one
Chefs, restaurateurs, and hospitality professionals gathered last month to celebrate the top 50 fine diners in the world at a live awards ceremony held in Italy’s Turin. Japanese restaurant Maido took out the no.1 position after placing fifth last year. Maido is run by chefowner Mitsuharu ‘Micha’ Tsumura in Lima, Peru and has been serving dishes described as a “masterclass in Nikkei cuisine” for more than 15 years. Asador Etxebarri (Spain), Quintonil (Mexico City), Diverxo (Madrid), and Alchemist (Copenhagen) rounded out the top five.
Easy listening
Late-night venue Ette arrives in Sydney
Ette has opened its doors on the ground floor of an office tower on Bridge Street in Sydney’s CBD, serving up a range of $9.50 ‘snackettes’ and free focaccia on arrival. British chef Adam Grimsley is heading up the kitchen after spending time at Icebergs and Jacksons on George in Sydney as well as in Michelin-starred fine diners abroad. Dishes are broad when it comes to inspiration, with the culinary team focusing on ingredients rather than specific influences. “While Ette is rooted in European culinary traditions, we draw inspiration from across the globe,” says Grimsley. “We’re not bound by one cuisine. Instead, we focus on what tastes incredible and showcases the ingredient at its best.” The venue closes at 2am, joining the late-night movement in the city. ettesydney.com
Photography by Steven Woodburn
The Food of Bharat
Helly Raichura
Hardie Grant Books; $60
Enter Via Laundry’s Helly Raichura takes readers on a journey through India’s diverse culinary fabric in The Food of Bharat, a book that combines historical insights with recipes from regional India. “I wanted to restore and build upon our understanding of Indian cuisine, eliminate long-standing stereotypes, and ignite a sense of pride in my children for their heritage, which is so ancient and versatile,” she says. The book is split into five sections covering periods including the Pre-Vedic and Post-Vedic era as well as the Mughal invasion and modern Indian cuisine. Recipe highlights include samosa warqi, bebinca (baked custard), and murg Musallam (stuffed chicken).
Straight to the Source Founders Tawnya Bahr and Lucy Allon have announced a new namesake podcast featuring some of Australia’s top culinary talents. The first series of Straight to the Source consists of eight episodes, covering topics including culinary leadership with Jamie Gannon and building a regional and sustainable venue with Karena Armstrong. “Whether you’re from the land, the kitchen, front of the house, or the boardroom, the podcast gives you access to forward-thinking ideas that are changing how we grow, source, and experience food sustainably, ensuring the industry thrives for generations to come,” says Bahr. New episodes will be released on listening platforms every Thursday from 17 July.
Lessons from abroad
Overseas service hacks that can be applied locally.
WORDS Ken Burgin
SIX CAFFEINE-FUELLED WEEKS in London and Paris gave me a fresh perspective on hospitality productivity. From chain cafes in Soho to zinc-topped brasseries on the Left Bank, I saw tiny teams serve big crowds with pace, calm, and personality. Australian operators face the same pressure but often reach for extra roster hours rather than sharper systems. The European answer is leaner and more cost-effective: disciplined roles, smart equipment, and clear communication. Here are five ideas you can pilot in the next roster without knocking out a wall.
Welcoming the world
Both capitals are linguistic jungles, yet service rarely stalls. Menus rely on tidy pictograms — a leaf for vegan and a chilli for spicy, so guests aren’t hunting through footnotes. Contactless payment symbols greet customers on the door, at the counter, and on the bill folder. Frontof-house staff begin with eye contact, a smile, and a silent gesture toward a QR code or pastry tower; only then do words — often in the visitor’s own language — join in. Script a two-line greeting in your most common tourist’s tongue and add three universal icons to your printed and digital menus. The two tweaks cut confusion and shave seconds from every order.
The humble tray
Europe’s quiet productivity weapon is the plain serving tray. One barista can land four cappuccinos, two croissants, and the bill in a single glide, trimming thousands of footsteps each shift. Because food and drinks arrive together, table turns accelerate. Because everything sits on one platform, spills and glass breakage disappears. Training is simple: include a five-metre ‘tray walk’ in every pre-shift until balance feels natural and ask staff to carry trays at hip height for safety and visibility. Trial a ‘tray day’ during your next weekend rush and measure how many trips and minutes you save.
Fewer hands, sharper roles
I watched two people cruise through a London breakfast wave that would have required four staff at home. In Paris, a lone waiter
managed 16 terrace seats without breaking a sweat. The secret is flexible task ownership: when no one is paying, the cashier wipes tables. When the queue fades, the barista tops up water jugs. Portable EFTPOS units, QR ordering, and automatic tip prompts make these overlaps friction-free. Map one busy service, list every hand-off, and challenge yourself to remove two of them. You may discover you don’t need that ‘floater’ shift after all.
Equipment and layout beat extra labour
Parisian kitchens often occupy less space than an Aussie broom cupboard, yet they hum at volume. Under-counter glass washers live beside beer taps, so guests watch spotless stemware appear. Anything used every five minutes is within arm’s reach. Compact highspeed toasters and fast dishwashers expand capacity more cheaply than new hires, and visible cleanliness builds instant trust. Strap on a pedometer for one lunch service, spot the longest detours, and move one piece of kit closer this week.
Different expectations managed upfront
Brits queue without fuss, while Parisians demand pace but accept lean menus and tight quarters. Australians love to chat, so ease the wait before irritation sets in. A Shoreditch cafe stencilled “coffee wait eight minutes from here” on the floor, and tension melted away. A Paris sandwich bar stuck to five items, guaranteeing speed and availability. A London host greeted arrivals with a candid “kitchen’s down a chef today, thanks for your patience” and still scored smiles. Add a single line on your menu that explains expected wait times or section off a quick-order board when the kitchen is slammed.
Bringing Europe home
Old-world charm isn’t cobblestones; it’s the invisible machinery that lets three people do the work of five. Introduce a tray, shift a fridge, and add a pictogram and you’ll bank minutes and dollars every day. In a labour market where each saved minute equals dollars, incremental gains matter. Test one tweak this week, share the numbers with your crew, and raise a croissant to your new efficiency. ■
Can be green or purple in colour
Commonly enjoyed in salads
Known as spider mustard
Prefers cool-climate regions
iStock.com/Hanae Watanabe
Has a peppery flavour
Frequent harvest encourages growth
Rich in vitamins A, C, and K
Mizuna
The vibrant green (or purple) leaf adds a peppery note to dishes.
WORDS Annabelle Cloros
Origins
Mizuna is a Japanese mustard green also known as kyona and is part of the brassica family. While it is said to have originated in China, the serrated leaf gained popularity in Kyoto, Japan, where it was grown in rice paddies. Mizuna translates to ‘water greens’ in Japanese, which is a nod to its cultivation process. Today, the vegetable is grown around the world and enjoyed in a range of cooked and raw dishes. In Australia, mizuna is primarily produced in Tasmania thanks to its cooler climate, but it is also grown in subtropical Queensland.
Seasonality and harvest
The green has a quick growth cycle of around four weeks, which makes it a reliable and abundant crop, but it peaks in autumn and winter. Mizuna is primarily grown in garden beds
and requires a temperate climate between 10 and 15 degrees Celsius, which helps the development of its signature peppery flavour. Seeds should be sown in moist soil 30cm apart and belong in an area that receives plenty of sun. Germination takes place between day six and 12, with the baby greens able to be harvested once they are two inches tall. Otherwise, mature leaves are ready after 40 or so days. It’s best to cut the outer leaves first and allow the inner leaves to continue growing. The plant will regenerate with regular harvesting and fertilisation, but once the warmer weather hits, the plant will go to seed.
Appearance
and
flavour profile
Mizuna is vibrant green or purple in colour, depending on its variety – some even feature a combination of the two hues. The leaves are narrow and have serrated
edges, which some liken to delicate lace. Mizuna has spicy, peppery notes and is most comparable to salad favourite green rocket or arugula. The length of the leaves depends on when harvest takes place, but mature leaves can grow up to 45cm in height and 30cm in width.
Culinary uses
The leaf is a common addition to salads and is a great accompaniment to various types of lettuces as it brings pepper and heat to otherwise-mild dishes. It can be added to stir-fries and Asian-style creations such as hot pot towards the end of the cooking process, which ensures the flavour is preserved. It can also be added to pasta dishes for extra texture and to roasted winter vegetables after they have finished cooking. ■
LOW ADMIN FEE
Bar cart
Thirst quenchers, slow sippers, and all things beverage related.
EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros
Go low
There has been a breakthrough in the processing of ‘low and no’ wines, a movement championed by Treasury Wine Estates. The winery has invested in world-first technology that removes alcohol from wine without altering the flavour profile of the drop. The $15-million processing facility in the Barossa Valley will commence rolling out alcohol-free wines for brands in its portfolio including Pepperjack and Squealing Pig as well as options under a new brand set to launch later this year. tweglobal.com
Go big
McLaren Vale distillery Never
Never has given its bottle size a boost, going from 500ml to 700ml. The team originally launched its range in a smaller format to get the gin out to as many venues as possible, but decided it was time to upsize to meet demand. “With the change, we’ve maintained the bottle’s overall shape and balance with better grip on the neck and the same graduations down the back for batching and stocktake,” says Co-Founder
Sean Baxter. Triple Juniper, Oyster Shell, and Ginache will be the first to roll out in the new bottles, with more of the range to follow in the months to come. neverneverdistilling.com.au
Fresh addition
Sip Coco is a new brand from entrepreneurs and brothers Chris and Lawrence Seaton. The pair decided to use coconuts from Vietnam as the base for a 330ml canned range, which consists of six flavours including original, passionfruit, ginger, and lychee. All flavours are made with fresh juice, which is added to a base of 90 per cent coconut water. “It tastes like it has been poured straight from a coconut, because it has,” says Chris. “We haven’t added any sugar or cut any corners.” The coconut water is now available for wholesale purchase. brewingbrands.com.au
Winter nights
Four Pillars Whisky Barrel gin is the second edition from the brand’s dedicated barrel-aged series. Gin was aged in Chardonnay barrels for nine years before being moved to Four Roses bourbon whisky barrels in the US for an additional two-year period. The amber spirit has notes of dried fruit, caramel, vanilla, juniper, and citrus, making it ideal to sip neat or enjoy on the rocks. $175. fourpillarsgin.com
Third time’s a charm
Turner Stillhouse is a passion project for founder Justin Turner, who has crafted two new spirits made with Tassie-grown grains (corn, rye, and barley) and local, pure distilled water. Rosevears Three Grain single-malt whiskey was made in a 3,000-litre copper hybrid still from Oregon before it was toasted and matured in new American oak barrels. The dram has accents of caramel and vanilla and should be savoured slowly. $179. turnerstillhouse.com
The shift to savoury
Bartenders are crafting drinks with salinity and piquancy front of mind.
WORDS Molly Nicholas
PHOTOGRAPHY Dexter Kim for Bar Planet and Jake Scevola for Vinabar
BRINE, BREAD, AND broth were once the domain of the kitchen, but savoury elements are now finding their place behind the bar. The appeal of savoury cocktails has continued to grow as guests look for options beyond martinis, with the segment ultimately marking a new beginning for professionals and the public alike. From shiitake-infused bourbon to sourdough-laced cocktails, bartenders are embracing less-traditional ingredients in pursuit of drinks that go beyond sweet, fruity, and sour.
At Bar Planet in Sydney’s Enmore, Velo is a cocktail that reads like a dish. The sour is made with buttered Cognac, lemon, Pineau, a dash of salt and a syrup made from AP Bakery’s baguettes. The drink is listed on the BFFs menu and is a product of industry crosspollination. Mucho Group’s Creative Director Jeremy Blackmore says Velo is about pushing boundaries and delivering a drink with complexity. The process begins by toasting baguettes and blending them with sugar and malt to make a syrup while the Cognac component is made by combining the liquor with melted salted butter. “We let it mingle for a bit and put it in the freezer to remove the solids,” says Blackmore. “The butter goes back to a solid and we skim it out, so you’re left with a clear but really delicious, textural Cognac. The flavour carries over really well.”
“When you get the right contrasting ingredient it really pulls the whole thing together and feels like a complete cocktail.”
– Jeremy Blackmore
Vinabar is hidden behind a banh mi cart in a Sydney CBD laneway and is another venue championing savoury elements. Venue Manager Tony Yang has drawn inspiration from Vietnamese cuisine, having spent plenty of time perusing Vietnamese markets in Marrickville, which is where the idea for the Fungus Among Us cocktail was born. The drink is a twist on an Old Fashioned and features bourbon infused with shiitake mushrooms and orange zest.
“I started by finding a spirit that would pair well with a strong, earthy fungi and found the sweeter notes of Maker’s Mark whisky worked with shiitake,” Yang tells Hospitality.
Though shiitake initially dominated the palate, multiple rounds of trial and error led to the addition of fresh orange zest. “The orange cuts through the earthiness while letting parts of the mushroom shine through,” says Yang. “The fix also inspired the name which is a reference to the video game Among Us, and alludes to the idea of a flavour that does not belong but ultimately blends in with the rest.”
While Bar Planet’s Velo features baguettes, the Scarlet (sour whey, rhubarb-infused Pinot Grigio and Bar Planet’s Infinite spirit) incorporates a byproduct from local microcheesery Goldstreet Dairy. “With the whey, we’re using something [the owner] isn’t selling,” says Blackmore. “He makes cheese on
Tuesdays and we’re able to pick up the sour whey on Thursdays. [The whey is] something that would basically go down the drain, but it is so delicious, even on its own. When you mix it with sugar, it has a sour, slightly savoury, tangy, almost yoghurt-y flavour. It adds a heap of texture to the cocktail and has ice cream notes that work with the sourness of the rhubarb.”
Structurally, Scarlet is a creamy spritz with a silky texture. It’s a combination that highlights the need to think in terms of texture and mouthfeel when incorporating unusual ingredients. “Savoury elements can add great texture, so something like whey adds creamy viscosity,” says Blackore. “Even something like olive brine at a low temperature will make a martini taste that little bit thicker. We’ve been using seaweed vodka we make ourselves in The Rocks which is made with fresh seaweed from Sydney. The saltiness and umami element pulls it together and makes a dirty martini super delicious.”
The dirty martini may be well established, but for bartenders looking to experiment in the savoury space, it’s a familiar and approachable entry point. Yang’s Opens with Sesame (pandaninfused Saigon Baigur gin, sesame oil, Dolin vermouth, olive brine) is a great example of what can be done with a martini-structured cocktail. “The nutty sesame aroma is the first
thing you get when drinking this cocktail,” says Yang. “As you sip, the sesame oil coats the mouth, softening the intensity of the liquor and delivering all the flavours before the ethanol hit. It adds a good amount of body and balance to the citrus-forward gin and salty brine to create a soup-like experience.”
With the growing curiosity around savoury flavours playing out in bars across Australia, crafting such drinks is about more than swapping salt for sugar - it requires thoughtful sourcing and an understanding of balance. Blackmore says Mucho Group “builds cocktails with the idea that there are a few different flavour elements”. Starting with the alcoholic component, he builds his cocktails out with complementary flavours. “When you get the right contrasting ingredient, it really pulls the whole thing together and feels like a complete cocktail,” he says.
Yang echoes the sentiment and reiterates the importance of well-rounded profiles. “The mixology world is essentially a liquid parallel to the culinary world – there are flavours that pair well, flavours that dominate, and flavours that do not sing together.”
But it’s not just about balance, it’s also about curiosity. As bartenders explore new ways to express savoury profiles, many are looking to other cultures for inspiration. “There is so much treasure hidden behind different cultures, ingredients, and ideas that are traditional to said cultures that have not yet seen use in mixology,” says Yang. “Once that door has been unlocked and more people make those connections, I think we will see a lot more innovative flavours and concepts appear.”
“There are flavours that pair well, flavours that dominate, and flavours that do not sing together.”
– Tony Yang
As cocktail flavours become more daring, setting expectations is key to a guest’s level of enjoyment. When consumers don’t understand a combination of ingredients, they often form their own expectations of what they hope a cocktail will taste like, which can sometimes lead to disappointment. “Personally, I will always communicate clearly in common terminology what to expect and warn those who do not like similar drinks to potentially steer clear.”
With that being said, Yang finds those who show an interest in savoury flavours typically enjoy them, with the rise of savoury cocktails signalling an evolution in the way consumers think about flavour. ■
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QUICK FROZEN MOZZARELLA
NEW Fred Walker Individually Quick Frozen Mozzarella is a quality, convenient, diced shred mozzarella that delivers the great TASTE , melt , STRETCH , and blister properties, with the added benefit of 365 days shelf life. Using a process of snap freezing mozzarella at its perfect age, it delivers the ultimate pizza solution all year round.
Hannah Green
The restaurateur’s new venue Daphne is taking a page out of Etta’s first draft.
WORDS Laura Box
PHOTOGRAPHY Kristoffer Paulsen
“MY DAD KEEPS telling me, ‘If it was easy, everyone would do it’,” says Hannah Green.
The restaurateur behind Brunswick East’s inimitable Etta is referring to the launch of her newest project, Daphne. The project comes at a “really tough time” for the industry, which is navigating skyrocketing produce prices, shrinking margins, and recruitment problems. Despite the current challenges, Green says the opportunity to take over the former Bar Romantica space “was too good to not take”.
“It’s next door to Etta and I was already paying for the bins because we had nowhere to put them,” she says. “It was a natural progression.”
Daphne is slated to open this September and is billed as a venue that caters to the status quo.
“The style of venue leans towards the times we are in,” says Green. “It’s something that’s a little bit more approachable instead of being a slightly higher-end restaurant.”
Green’s quick wit and boundless charm make it easy to understand why she was nominated for Gourmet Traveller’s Restaurant Personality of the Year in 2022 and received the Good Food Guide’s Service Excellence Award in 2024. The easy charisma bleeds into Green’s hospitality ethos of “warmth and generosity”, one which has defined the atmosphere of Etta, the contemporary Lygon
Street bistro that has been at the vanguard of Melbourne food, wine, and hospitality for more than eight years. “Etta was built on the principle of giving a warm welcome and making it feel like home,” says Green. “In everything I do, I think about that — whether it’s changing a menu, a chef, or looking at what we’re doing beveragewise. For me, hospitality is a feeling. It comes back to, ‘How do we make people feel when they leave?’ That dictates the product we deliver.”
Green says generosity is integrated into every aspect of her business. “Generosity with our time, on the plate, in the size of the glass of wine we pour, and how we treat people in our industry.” The ethos of extending warmth and generosity has permeated everything she does –including the tone for Daphne.
A pub traineeship at the young age of 18 kickstarted Green’s hospitality career, and the restaurateur hasn’t looked back since. After her training, Green moved to Melbourne and started “pestering” Jayden Ong for a job at 312. At the time – around 2006 or 2007 – 312 was the hot new restaurant in town, says Green. Eventually, she landed a job there. “I knew nothing, and I still can’t believe he took me on,” she says. “It was the beginning of the end for me in terms of getting sucked into the industry I love.”
“The style of hospitality I give creates a real sense of community. You feel like you’re a part of something and it gives you purpose every day.” – Hannah Green
Vector below clockwise:
iStock.com/bortonia
iStock.com/ Blueastro
iStock.com/ panom73
iStock.com/MaksimYremenko
Green is a trained sommelier and worked at Attica before opening Etta.
Ex-Etta Head
Chef Rosheen
Kaul is the coauthor of the award-winning Chinese-ish
Green says her love of restaurants stems from the human encounters the job facilitates with everyone from customers to colleagues. “The style of hospitality I give creates a real sense of community. You feel like you’re a part of something and it gives you purpose every day,” she says.
Green opened Etta in 2017 alongside Dominique Fourie McMillan, who she’d met working at Neil Perry’s now-shuttered Rosetta, and Dominique’s husband Hayden. In 2019, the McMillans parted ways with Etta, leaving Green with the restaurant. Etta has evolved significantly over the years, morphing from a casual neighbourhood wine bar into a venue that became recognised for its innovative menus and Green’s appointments of up-and-coming chefs. Charley Snadden-Wilson (ex Ramblr, now Clover) took over from Hayden and led the restaurant to earn its first hat. Then came Rosheen Kaul, who went on to win a James Beard Award for her book Chinese-ish. During Kaul’s stint, the restaurant gained a place on The World’s 50 Best Discovery list. Since mid-2024, Lorcan Kan has been at the kitchen’s helm, with his dishes receiving similar recognition and praise to those created by Etta alumni.
The restaurant isn’t the only thing to evolve according to Green, who notes her own growth. “I’m a very different person now to who I was back then,” she says. “I think I was naive and thought I knew a lot more than I did. Now I’ve been through so much in terms of how the landscape has changed over that time.”
Green is drawing on key learnings to help shape Daphne, which will showcase local makers across the board. “I love design,” she says. “I think it’s an important part of an experience. I also feel strongly about using Australian manufacturers. It’s like using produce from a farm that’s in season as opposed to buying strawberries in the middle of winter.” The interest in using Australian manufacturers stems from her desire to make decisions rooted in sustainability. But Green notes it comes at a cost. “At a time where margins are thinner than ever, you’ve got to balance out costs and find where you can value manage. Relationships are at the core of everything, and I’ve built a career on them. Having to push back on things or be like, ‘Hey, I’ve got a cheaper quote over here’, is hard. I’m smack-bang in the not-very-fun part of it.”
Diana Desensi will be Daphne’s first head chef.
Etta scored a place on The World’s 50 Best Discovery list
Green says the Etta that exists today isn’t the restaurant she had originally intended to open eight years ago, which is where Daphne comes into the picture. “I still think we’re a neighbourhood restaurant at Etta, but at Daphne, we want you to be able to just pop in and have a drink,” she says. “The world is a really challenging place at the moment and I want it to be a refuge for people to come and escape for two or three hours.”
Despite her self-acknowledged growth, the restaurateur says she reminds herself of the importance of continuous learning. “When people around you speak, close your mouth and listen,” says Green. “If I stop and listen to what people are saying – and it could be a kitchenhand, food runner, or my head chef – I can take learnings from them. If somebody’s not doing their job properly, it’s because I’m not giving them the tools to do it.” ■
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Fine Food Australia
The industry’s leading event for the foodservice sector is on this September.
FINE FOOD AUSTRALIA returns to Sydney from 8-11 September 2025 at the International Convention Centre in Darling Harbour. The annual trade show is a mustattend event for hospitality professionals looking for inspiration in categories including equipment, technology, food and beverage innovation, and more. Event organisers say delegates can look forward to a stronger focus on connection, networking, and discoveries that will drive business success. “This year’s show has been curated to reflect the evolving needs of the industry,” says Sinead Kavanagh, Commercial Product Manager of Fine Food Australia. “We’ve introduced new
features, revitalised our educational content, and focused more than ever on creating genuine value for both visitors and exhibitors. It’s about sparking ideas and making real business connections.”
This year, two showroom floors will be filled with more than 900 exhibitors across 12 product categories. There will be a range of events including the ACF Culinary Challenge, the Nestle Golden Chef’s Hat competition, and The Official Great Aussie Pie Competition taking place each day. Free workshops will run throughout the event across dedicated stages, including Talking Tech and Business, Talking Trends, and The Culinary kitchen, which will see
hospitality professionals host demos and cover the sector’s most pressing topics including new global ingredients and trends; changing consumer habits; and growth opportunities. Show tours are also open for delegates to attend, and are designed to help visitors discover products, services, and solutions that suit their needs. Networking is also a focus of Fine Food Australia 2025, with a dedicated Hospitality Hub open to foster industry connections away from the show floor. Registration is free for foodservice professionals. Visit finefoodaustralia.com.au to secure your ticket. A $45 door charge will apply to those who register on-site.
Stand spotlight
Check out these exhibitors at the event.
La Marzocco
La Marzocco, the iconic espresso machine manufacturer founded in Florence in 1927, brings nearly a century of craftsmanship and innovation to Fine Food Australia 2025. Renowned for precision, reliability, and timeless design, La Marzocco is the trusted partner for hospitality operators seeking premium equipment that delivers specialty coffee every time. There will be a curated range of world-class machines and tools on display that are designed to fit seamlessly into any environment from hotel lobbies to busy cafés. Built for performance and ease of use, La Marzocco equipment supports efficient workflows and empowers teams to deliver exceptional service. Each machine is hand-built to meet the demands of modern hospitality while preserving the legacy of Italian espresso craftsmanship. With dedicated local support across Australia and a focus on long-term value, La Marzocco helps operators minimise downtime and elevate coffee experiences across every touchpoint. Visit stand C40 to learn more. au.lamarzocco.com
Trimatt
Discover how food manufacturers are slashing packaging costs and boosting flexibility with the Trimatt ColourStar AQ V, which will be on display at stand J58. The user-friendly digital printing system empowers manufacturers, companies, and businesses to bring packaging operations in-house to print vibrant, full-colour branding across multiple SKUs without the cost and associated labour of labels, eliminating high MOQ problems and long lead times. The Trimatt ColourStar AQ V is ideal for short to medium runs, giving manufacturers total control over production while reducing waste, storage space, and dependency on external suppliers. Say goodbye to costly packaging delays and hello to smarter, leaner operations. Join Trimatt Systems at Fine Food Australia to see the future of customised food packaging in action and discover how your business can save thousands with agile, on-demand printing. trimatt.com
ARCA
Take a well-earned break at the Lounge, your go-to spot for free coffee, refreshments, and merchandise. While you recharge, discover how the Australian Restaurant & Cafe Association (ARCA) is advocating for the 56,000 hospitality businesses across the country. As the only national body lobbying specifically for cafes and restaurants, ARCA keeps owners and operators informed on critical legislative changes, industry reforms, and upcoming challenges. Joining ARCA ($52 plus GST per year) means staying one step ahead. Members can access exclusive insights, roundtables and networking events, and support on everything from migration to industrial relations. Whether you’re running a small cafe or a large restaurant group, this is your chance to connect, join the movement, and help shape the future of the industry. arca.org.au
EOI Bakery
Join EOI Bakery/Peerless Foods for live demonstrations at stand HB20, hosted by an experienced team showcasing an exciting variety of different pastries including mini sausage rolls and pies, indulgent filled tarts, and Danish squares. Staff will be on hand to provide creative recipe ideas, technical support, and answer any questions about the product range including where to purchase. eoibakery.com.au
The trusted choice.
Stokd
Stokd is here to simplify how hospitality venues order, track, and manage stock with one app. If you’re still ordering across emails, texts, supplier apps, and chasing invoices manually, it’s time to stop. Stokd gives cafés, restaurants, and kitchens one simple flow for every supplier, no matter who you order from. Browse live pricing, place orders in seconds, and receive auto-generated tax invoices that sync straight into Xero or MYOB. Say goodbye to manual entry, missing orders, and late-night admin. Built by hospo operators, for hospo operators, Stokd is the new standard for streamlined procurement, freight tracking, and smart ordering. Visit the stand for a live demo, meet the team, and see how Stokd can save your venue hours every week. stokd.com
Euroswift
Are you a fresh food retailer looking to boost sales or a hospitality operator aiming to elevate the dining experience? Euroswift Australia are specialists in food displays that go beyond good looks, helping operators present food beautifully, efficiently, and safely. Discover Dalebrook’s premium melamine range trusted by venues for standout displays that combine style with durability. Plus, see the BOSKA professional cheese tool collection, Edikio food ticketing, and Plexiline bakery display systems. Whether you’re fitting out a counter or upgrading your operation, Euroswift brings the expertise to help you sell more, with less hassle. Visit stand HJ47 to explore two tailored zones: one for retail food and one for hospitality and foodservice. euroswiftaustralia.com
Freshness you can rely on — from farm to kitchen
At Speedy Berry, we understand the pressures of food service — tight timelines, strict standards, and the need for consistency every single time.
That’s why we’ve built our reputation as one of Australia’s leading suppliers of premium frozen fruit, trusted by chefs, commercial kitchens, and food manufacturers nationwide.
From the moment our fruit is harvested, we lock in quality. Our advanced facility features precision size grading, x-ray and metal detection, visual inspection, and hygienic packing systems — all designed to deliver safe, consistent product to your kitchen. We're certified to the highest standards, including SQF, HACCP, GMP, Kosher, and Halal.
Speedy Berry’s products are crafted to reduce risk, simplify prep, and exceed expectations. You get fruit that looks vibrant, tastes fresh, and performs perfectly — no matter the dish or service volume.
Speedy Berry — The smart choice for food professionals who won’t compromise on quality.
CoolPac
Olivo is a new, revolutionary solution which is about to redefine perishable food transport. Already trusted by leading food businesses across Europe, Asia, and the US, Olivo is exclusively available in Australia through CoolPac. Unlike expensive refrigerated trucks, the versatile units allow for economical storage and delivery in standard vehicles while maintaining precise temperatures of chilled, frozen, and ambient foods for up to 72 hours. In the fastpaced world of food, maintaining impeccable quality and safety is non-negotiable. Compromised cold chains lead to costly waste and damaged reputations. From fresh food processors needing reliable distribution and retailers optimising in-store logistics in tight spaces to restaurants, hotels, and caterers ensuring food excellence, Olivo provides robust, hygienic, and mobile cold chain control. Visit CoolPac and see the future of food transport at Fine Food Australia. coolpac.com
Frutex
For more than 50 years, Frutex has built a reputation for uncompromising quality and consistency. Over 3,000 customers, including some of the biggest names in the food industry, trust Frutex to supply their businesses with the flavours and ingredients that have become the taste of Australia.
Frutex Australia, driven by an unwavering commitment to product excellence, has established itself as a leader in the food industry. With a strong emphasis on quality, the business supplies a diverse range of premium high-quality bulk ingredients to major industrial manufacturers, wholesalers, and distributors. Frutex also offers customisable processing, cleaning, and batch sizes. Dedicated to delivering exceptional quality, Frutex has earned a reputation as a trusted partner and supplier in the food industry. By leveraging cutting-edge technology, adhering to stringent quality standards, and offering a comprehensive product portfolio, Frutex remains committed to meeting the ever-evolving needs of its customers. frutex.com.au
Sunny Side
Sunny Side was founded by Aussie farming families Sunny Queen, which has more than 90 years of experience in the egg industry. The business is committed to providing delicious and nutritious food using 100 per cent Aussie, quality eggs from healthy and well-cared for hens. As goodness comes in many shapes and sizes, there are a range of fresh egg products available as well as convenient, gluten-free tasty meal solutions. From ready-to-pour liquid egg products to delicious omelettes, fritters, poached eggs and more, Sunny Queen has a solution for every need. The team will be exhibiting meal solution products, have egg-citing merch on offer, as well as plenty of experts on hand to speak to delegates at stand HF47 sunnyqueenfoodservice.com.au
Bread winner
Anne Roussac-Hoyne shares the story behind her new South Gippsland venue Red Pig Historic Bakery.
ARTIST AND FORMER owner of Foster’s Cow Cow café Anne Roussac-Hoyne has reinvigorated an historic bakery in the Victorian town of Toora. Roussac-Hoyne talks to Hospitality about redeveloping the site, which is now available for lease or sale
What is the story behind the premises and how did it come into your hands?
Built in the 1890s, the former Toora bakery sat dormant for over 40 years post-1970. It came onto my radar serendipitously and I decided to save the fabulous old girl if I could.
What inspired you to create the Red Pig Historic Bakery?
The modern iteration of the bakery is yet to open. We have a state-of-the-art architecturally designed building which houses the restored oven, fully equipped bakery, and a 60-seat caférestaurant. It’s waiting for the right cafe managers and bakers to work their magic, and we’re ready to do everything we can to help them. Toora is a very attractive small town that has avoided the ravages of piecemeal development and is regarded as having one of the most intact streetscapes in South Gippsland. The location benefits from its proximity to pristine beaches and rolling green hills, the Great Southern Rail Trail, and Wilsons Promontory.
How have you preserved the bakery’s history with Genem Architects?
Our architect has done a brilliant job of honouring the tradition of the century-old oven while creating a modern industrial feel to the rest of the building. Natural light streams in through multiple skylights set in the cathedral ceilings and an expansive timber deck sits out front.
Tell us about the bakery’s woodfired Scotch oven
It’s a 4x4-metre brick edifice with cast-iron doors and fixtures. Most Scotch ovens disappeared with the advent of packaged supermarket bread. Those that have survived are regarded as iconic. A large, purpose-built interior window ensures the Red Pig oven is always visible to cafe patrons.
What will be on the bakery’s menu?
It’s envisaged that the main offering will be based on the unique produce of the Scotch oven, though there is also a high-quality combination oven in the cafe kitchen.
How did you land on Red Pig as the name?
It’s a long story involving a renegade 19th-century Scottish adventurer nicknamed ‘The Red Pig’ due to his flaming red hair and beard; the red-brick construction of our building; and the significance of pigs in the historic dairy-farming economy of the area.
Will you be running the business yourself?
No, that’s not my skillset. My role from here is to hand the premises over to passionate and committed hospitality providers to operate in the way they see fit. The premises has a liquor licence and late-night operation approval. The business is for lease or sale on very favourable terms. Assistance with accommodation in the next-door baker’s residence is available. ■
For more information, contact Anne Roussac-Hoyne. aroussac@bigpond.com; 0408 871 379
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Photo credit: AVC Kim Jane, Flinders Hotel Photo credit: AVC Chege Mbuthi, Quarterhouse
Photo credit: Worktones, Ethan Smart, The Commons
Make your mark
IN THE HOSPITALITY world, branding doesn’t stop when a business’s Instagram feed or website inspires a customer to book a table. The brand experience isn’t just about how your venue looks online; it’s also about how it feels in real life. It’s what your customer touches, sees, hears, and senses the moment they walk through the door.
From the look of a waiter’s apron to the aesthetic of a ceramic plate — tangible details tell a story. And when they’re considered from the outset, they don’t just decorate a space, they define it.
Branding is about transforming a marketing team or business owner’s vision into powerful experiences that cultivate customer loyalty. Australian Venue Co. shows how powerful physical branding can be when it’s embedded early on in the process in venues like The Gardiner, Quarterhouse, and Flinders Hotel.
“We’re seeing a shift toward more tactile, analogue experiences in response to digital fatigue,” says Australian Venue Co. Senior Brand Project Manager Pippa Finks. “Handwritten menus, textured walls, and imperfect ceramics are starting to become popular alongside curated scent design, which is becoming a serious part of a brand’s identity.”
Having a vision for a venue’s physical space is crucial from the get-go. The location and interior schemes need to align with the brand — not just visually, but emotionally. From menus, uniforms, and signage to coasters and packaging, each design application is a way to test whether the brand message resonates with the right audience and feels at home within a hospitality venue. Because ultimately, the aesthetic patrons discover online or through word of mouth should be aligned with the physical space. The feeling doesn’t happen by accident; it happens when strategy, design, food, and service all work together in sync.
How physical branding influences customer experience.
WORDS Mathilde Delatte
Alongside visual branding, sensory details embed a brand into a customer’s subconscious. They make a space memorable in a world that’s increasingly over-stimulated. Finks shares how Australian Venue Co. approaches this multi-sensory experience. “One of our recent projects, The Gardiner Hotel, features a rooftop terrace where we used things like patterned tiles, soft grassy landscaping, and a timber retractable roof layered alongside a bespoke native botanical scent in the bathrooms to connect the senses and experience throughout,” she says. “We also worked with a sound designer to curate playlists that help shift through different trading periods of the day and night from relaxed acoustics to up-tempo house. It helps shape energy levels and set the mood.” These immersive brand environments don’t just look good, they make guests feel like they belong. Once an emotional connection has been established, customers are more likely to engage, return to the venue, and share their experience.
Uniforms are one of the most visible (and often overlooked) forms of physical branding. They signal intent, atmosphere, and values. They’re also what staff wear for hours on end, so practicality can’t be ignored. Huw Bennett’s studio Worktones has helped reshape the landscape of hospitality uniforms in Australia. When asked about balancing branding with practicality, Bennett commented that it is a topic up for daily discussion in the studio. “When using branding, we have to think firstly what application and/ or process will work best,” he says. “We can then try and explore options with product renders, sampling, or lab tests for colour and shrinkage. The process requires constant trial and error and is one we can never immediately answer for. It’s what makes what we do exciting, challenging, and ultimately rewarding.”
“We’re seeing a shift toward more tactile, analogue experiences in response to digital fatigue.” – Pippa Finks
Worktones’ products are functional but never bland. The uniforms carry the spirit of a venue quietly, but confidently. Bennett says a standout moment so far was the development of the Hector’s Deli cap. “We first made it for the thenstandalone Richmond location back in 2018 and have continued to produce for the brand,” he says. “The cap is a unique fit made for the client based on an old favourite they found on their travels and incorporates the smart branding and signature colours.” More than just an accessory, the hat became part of the identity of the venue. It is merchandise with emotional currency and something customers want to wear. Venues have turned patrons into superfans by selling items from tote bags to shirts and coffee mugs.
Like uniforms, tableware is storytelling at its most tactile. It’s a key physical point of contact that a guest has with a brand. “Tableware is something that helps set the tone of a venue and is a visual cue for customers whether they notice
“When using branding, we have to think firstly what application and/or process will work best.” – Huw Bennett
or not,” says Finks. “For example, white ironed tablecloths and silverware tells a different story to the casual and approachable spaces we try to create. Coloured tables, napkin materials, weight of plates, mixed table heights, bar stools, and banquette-style seating allow us to create and emulate the pub atmosphere we know people love.” These small, layered cues build a language that speaks directly to the customer. Every detail is part of the narrative, and that narrative can be deeply personalised.
Too often, branding is created in isolation. But the magic happens when passionate professionals such as chefs, designers, architects, and suppliers collaborate on a larger vision.
Physical branding is no longer a ‘nice to have’, it’s an investment that turns the curious into the converted and elevates your venue from a service to a story. “Alongside internal teams, we also engage various external suppliers early on in the branding process,” says Finks. “Everything from interior finishes, dishes on the menu, layout of the venue, staff training, uniforms, weekly events, wayfinding signage, and more are strategically considered and aligned to create a unified experience for our customers once the venue opens. These types of collaborations with other industry experts create unique venues and brand experiences — it’s all about sharing knowledge and leveraging strengths.”
The collaborative spirit is what transforms a collection of talented individuals into a unified brand experience that guests not only notice but feel. When every detail works harmoniously from menus and uniforms to tableware and service, a venue becomes more than a place to simply eat and drink — it becomes a destination where people feel nurtured, connected, and eager to return. ■
Photo credit: Top image: AVC Griffin Simm, The Gardiner
Left image: Worktones, Steven Woodburn, Saint Peter
Right image: Worktones, Hector's Deli
GREAT COFFEE
The sweet spot
Korean-style pastries combine traditional elements with modern techniques.
WORDS Molly Nicholas PHOTOGRAPHY Jess Belnick for Buttered and Janice Zhu for Moon Phase
VIRAL TRENDS COME and go, but Korean-style pastries have staying power. From finely laminated salt bread to delicately structured tissue bread, the pastries are unapologetically indulgent. Known for strong visuals and cross-cultural flavour combinations, Korean baked goods have found a devoted following in the Australian consumer.
Owned and operated by Vuza Hospitality (Hongdae Pocha, Allta, Funda), Chippendale café Buttered has a huge pastry lineup. Located in a heritage-listed building, the open pastry kitchen offers a clear view of the craftmanship behind the store’s baked goods, with the pastries on full display. Chief Business Officer Anece So describes it as an emulation of a café in Korea. “Koreans love visually striking things,” she says. “There’s a belief that the way something looks is just as important as how it functions. You’ll oftentimes see pastries with delicate details, drinks that look like art, and beautiful packaging. People want the full experience — something that’s curated and thoughtful. Café culture is huge in Korea, and we
“Balancing bold, often-savoury Korean flavours with the flaky, buttery qualities of French pastry requires patience and precision.”
– Janice Zhu
saw that same love in Sydney, so it felt like a natural fit to bring a little slice of Seoul over. We’ve seen a real appetite for Asian culture right now, and we love being able to share something that feels familiar to us but new and exciting to others.”
Since rebranding from Layers, St Leonards café Moon Phase has seen a surge in interest for its Korean spin on pastries. Head of Branding and Marketing Janice Zhu says aesthetics have played a huge role, even before guests visit in person. “We keep our packaging and branding intentionally minimalist to let the product speak for itself, inviting that ‘wow’ moment when people see or taste it for the first time,” she says. “The visual appeal of our pastries paired with thoughtful flavour is key to their shareability and success.”
While there’s no precision and glossy finishes have fuelled the rapid rise of Korean-style pastries, it’s the carefully balanced flavours and technical complexity that elevate them beyond passing trends. At Buttered, the team’s take on salt bread, or sogeum ppang as it’s called in Korea, has been unprecedently popular. With the same core ingredients as a croissant, salt bread is rich in butter but is not laminated. “Structurally, it’s closer to a dinner roll,” says So. “The main difference is that we roll a chunk of butter into the centre, which melts as it’s in the oven. It creates a drenched hollow pocket in the middle, which seeps out and crisps up the base, giving it that amazing contrast – soft and chewy in the middle and super crispy on the outside.”
On opening week, pastry chefs were in the kitchen from 3am trying to meet demand, baking around 1,000 salt rolls. “There’s something really comforting about the taste and texture,” says So.
“We’ve seen a real appetite for Asian culture right now, and we love being able to share something that feels familiar to us but new and exciting to others.” – Anece So
“It tastes familiar but with a twist. I think people are drawn to that kind of food, especially when it feels a bit indulgent without being over the top.”
Korean-style pastries demand time, repetition, and exacting control — the labour intensity is undeniable. Pastry chefs at Moon Phase develop croissant dough over five days to achieve the perfect texture — cutting corners isn’t an option. “The extended process includes multiple rounds of lamination, resting, and fermentation, all of which contribute to the complexity and depth of the final product,” says Zhu. “It’s a labour-intensive approach, but one we feel is essential to delivering the quality we’re known for.”
Every recipe at Moon Phase is carefully developed to ensure it resonates across a diverse audience. Each pastry is subject to months of development before it reaches the consumer. “Balancing bold, often-savoury Korean flavours with the flaky, buttery qualities of French pastry requires patience and precision,” says Zhu. “Our team is deeply committed to crafting pastries that honour tradition while embracing innovation.”
At Buttered, So sees the harmony between Korean and Western palates as an essential part of the offering. Based in Seoul, she has her finger on the pulse when it comes to Korean trends, while closely monitoring what’s popular in Australia.
A drive to deliver classic flavours in a way that feels new to Australian consumers is at the heart of the cafe. The global phenomenon of matcha lattes is a perfect example, which has seen the team create matcha tissue bread and salt bread. Cheese and corn salt bread, a classic Korean combination, is also a best seller.
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“Inspired by a side dish you’d usually see at Korean BBQ, it’s served on a hot plate with melted cheese and sweet corn,” says So. “We recreate the vibe by blowtorching the filling and serving it warm. People have really responded to the nostalgic-yet-new flavour combo.”
Though it might have been the aesthetic appeal of tissue bread and waterfall cakes that initially led to the two items landing on Buttered’s menu, the light and subtle formats of the pastries make them easily customisable, meaning they’re suited to various flavours including strawberry and lemon meringue. “We’ve adapted the flavours to suit what we know the locals love so there’s still a sense of comfort and familiarity,” says So. “It’s all about finding that sweet spot.”
Zhu agrees that the fusion of familiar flavours with the delicate texture of a croissant creates something both comforting and novel. “The menu at Moon Phase is built on the philosophy of reimagining flavours through a modern, pastry-focused lens,” she says. “Korean pastries have long held a reputation for creativity and refined flavour profiles. At Moon Phase, we tapped into this cultural nostalgia, particularly among Asian communities, by introducing savoury pastries like our signature spicy pork and bulgogi croissant.”
By leveraging the emotional connection to traditional flavours and delivering them in an innovative format, Moon Phase has struck a balance that is approachable to new consumers while still satisfying more traditional tastes. New flavours are often launched around seasonal moments or cultural celebrations to test consumer response. When a new flavour gains popularity, it earns a permanent spot on the menu such as the signature Chocolate Bar croissant and the Cha Siu King. “The Chocolate Bar is a unique creation that stands out for its rich, indulgent flavour and striking appearance,” says Zhu. “On the savoury side, the Cha Siu King is a customer favourite due to its nostalgic flavour profile and comforting warmth.”
Though the visual impact and sheer indulgence of Korean pastries delivers instant appeal, at the core, the nostalgic pull of familiar flavours resonate with Australian audiences. ■
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TECH spiral
In an industry where every solution is promising to save time and money, how can restaurateurs decide which tech to choose?
WORDS Laura Box PHOTOGRAPHY courtesy of Applejack, Peter Leihn, and Judy McMahon
AT THE END of the 2024-2025 financial year, Catalina Owner Judy McMahon was inundated by tech companies spruiking the latest innovations. “At this time of year, every second phone call is somebody wanting to sell me something; it’s a new system, a new product,” says McMahon. “Everyone’s got the next whiz-bang innovation they say is going to save you time and money and improve your business.”
The rapid acceleration of artificial intelligence has seen new tech companies spring up, offering solutions for everything from finances and payroll to reservations and customer feedback management. But for the time-poor hospitality industry, the task of sifting through the various solutions, trialling tech, and training staff how to use the new systems is often more trouble than it’s worth.
Applejack’s recently appointed Group Head Chef Toby Worthington has trialled his fair share of new software in both his current and former role with Merivale. “There are always new programs and systems being upgraded,” he says. “At Merivale and Applejack, we’ve had conversations about how AI can streamline things to make systems and processes easier. I haven’t really seen much integration yet, but I know everyone’s talking about it, especially in the way of AI.” Despite the abundant opportunity, Worthington says implementing the systems can feel challenging. “To train everyone on 10 to 20 different systems takes time, energy, and money, which we have less and less of in the industry”.
For McMahon, trust is a major issue. “I’ve been with the people that look after my computer systems and networks for about 20 years, so I just wouldn’t move,” says the restaurateur. “I don’t mind innovation and I’m always looking for efficiencies, but for us, it is about balancing the reputation and the feel of the restaurant against efficiencies that might make things feel less personal.”
Currently, McMahon outsources payroll to an external HR company. “It automates things to a degree with rosters being sent to staff, but it could be automated a lot more, which is what I’m considering,” she says. “I think it would allow me some more efficiencies.” She has also outsourced SEO processes to a restaurant marketing agency called Serv. “I should have done that years ago, but I never knew who to go to,” says McMahon. “I’ve worked with them for over a year now. Some of these things we need to outsource because we can’t be experts in every field.”
McMahon certainly isn’t opposed to innovation. Uber recently announced its new Dine Out feature, which will trial-launch in Sydney this winter. Through the app, restaurants can offer diners discount prices during off-peak or quiet periods, helping to fill seats. At this point in time, there are no fees associated with the feature for restaurants, and Catalina has come on board as an early adopter. Despite the restaurant’s high profile, Catalina is not full all the time. The elevated eatery is generally busy during shoulder seasons and full during summer. But winter? “It can be pretty diabolical,” says McMahon, who is keen to see the results of the new feature. “I thought, ‘I’m just going to see what it does’, because there is a huge audience of people who already know how to use the technology and have the app on their phone. What’s the worst that could happen? I get too many customers?”
New tech: How can it help?
In good news, understanding the ins and outs of AI isn’t crucial, with many tech companies now embedding AI in ways that business owners don’t even see. Deputy Director of the UTS Data Science Institute Peter Leihn says many people are already using AI without even realising. “HR software often has all sorts of little tricks built into it,” he says. “There’s HR software called Workday that is embedding AI into all sorts of workflows. It’s what people might call process automation; just simple steps that don’t need a person. If you use Xero accounting software, you can scan your receipts with your mobile phone. AI reads the receipt and tries to work out in the context of your accounts what the receipt is for. Delivery apps use AI to locate people, estimate the time of delivery, and find the best route to take.”
Leihn says while these aspects are one side of AI, there is a whole other side of emerging bespoke options. He says generative AI can be used for coming up with dish ideas or designing graphics for menus. But he notes there can be drawbacks; AI uses large language models (LLMs), which are often created in the US and draw assumptions from that market — meaning certain AI may not be able to understand the clientele or menu about a finedining seafood restaurant in Rose Bay, for example. To counteract this, Leihn says certain models allow you to give AI programs more context, for example, providing sample menus alongside past sales results.
For McMahon, much of her reluctance to automate processes comes down to the personalised touch she can give customers — one which Catalina is well known for. She employs two full-time receptionists, which is uncommon in the hospitality industry, but it’s an expenditure she is certain her clients appreciate. “We still get an enormous amount of phone bookings,” says McMahon. “It’s quite an expensive way of doing it, but we’ve built loyalty with so many customers over time. A lot of them ring to make their bookings knowing they’ll be recognised by the person who
“If nobody knows how to use the toolset and use it well, it’s not going to be very beneficial to you.”– Peter Leihn
answers the phone. As much as booking platforms have the capability of putting in a whole lot of information so that anyone knows who a VIP is, there’s something about a one-on-one conversation that is really valuable to my older guests. Some of them have been coming for 30 years, so I’ve never replaced that.”
For businesses that can’t afford these kinds of outgoings, website chatbots and customer relationship management (CRM) systems can provide affordable alternatives. “AI can also provide personalised recommendations,” says Leihn. “If you have a CRM, it might say, ‘That’s Peter, he’s booked again, here is the history of what he’s ordered and recommendations to welcome him on arrival’.”
Where to begin?
When asked if free trials would inspire McMahon to take up new technology, she’s sceptical. One tech trial turned out to be a “complete and utter mess”, she says. “We all hated it. Customers hated it. Everyone hated it. But, I mean, at least the free trial meant we knew didn’t want it — but it was a waste of everyone’s time for at least a week. In the end, it’s about if someone can give you a compelling reason to try something. But it would only be a trial — I would never go in boots and all and decide to change something with no research.”
Leihn points out that AI is just a toolset. “Ask yourself what you’re trying to do for your business and start with the problem you’re trying to solve, then seek out a solution that. Word of mouth will show you what’s working for people.” Leihn also stresses the importance of education. “If nobody knows how to use the toolset and use it well, it’s not going to be very beneficial to you.” ■
AI is often embedded into software in ways users can’t see.
The right tech can help with finances, payroll, and reservations.
Software companies often offer free trial periods and training.
Word of mouth is often the best way to find reliable software.
“Some of these things we need to outsource because we can’t be experts in every field.”
– Judy McMahon
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Mark LaBrooy
The chef is finding joy in hunting and opening his own venue after Three Blue Ducks.
I CO-FOUNDED THREE Blue Ducks in 2010 with Sam ReidBoquist and Chris Sorrell. Towards the end of 2023, I felt I had stopped growing in the familiar territory of The Ducks, so I decided to hang up my boots and take the Head of Culinary role with The Boathouse Group. I was responsible for the group’s food program and we changed the menus at 13 venues and developed a 70-item events and functions menu. I was in a constant state of creativity and had a ball.
My wife recently became a qualified doctor with her first rotation in the ED, and we also have two kids. To give her time for her career, I decided to sell my shareholding in The Ducks halfway through last year and also left The Boathouse Group. I had been consulting for and working with wild game harvesting network Discovered Wildfoods and leaving The Ducks freed up a bit of cash, allowing me to invest in Discovered and immerse myself in a team leadership role. Working alongside Jo Barrett, we put our cuts out to wholesale and consumer markets along with value-added items like dim sum, pies, sausage rolls, ragu, and meatballs.
I’m deeply engaged with the hunting community, and it’s a huge part of my life. The more I learn about the lack of respect deer are given as a resource in Australia (and just how good they are to eat), the crazier it feels. I hunt deer for my family, which consists of a lot of bow hunting. There’s something deeply connecting about being in the bush, understanding the animal, and skilfully putting an end to its life before processing every skerrick of meat that you can from it.
It’s exciting to bring a highprotein, lean, and highmacronutrient red meat to market.
Discovered launched during Covid, and they were real trailblazers. They changed legislation that allowed for deer to be wild harvested and used for human consumption, which hadn’t been done before in Australia. The animals are wild, organic, and free-ranging, and they’re headshot at nighttime under thermal optics by incredible marksmen. Most people don’t realise the Invasive Species Council in New South Wales spends tens of millions annually eradicating deer using shooters and helicopters.
It’s a tragic loss of life and an underutilised resource. In a country where we have excessive caloric intake and nutrient deficiencies, it’s exciting to bring a high-protein, lean, and high-macronutrient red meat to market. It’s also affordable, which is particularly important for foodservice.
My newest project is Barney’s Takeaway Pizza and Wild Game Butchery, a pizza shop with a wild butchery retail arm in Woonona, which I’m aiming to launch in August. Up until now, much of my identity has been attached to what I’ve achieved in the hospitality world. The last 15 years have been hard. It’s time to do something that’s fun, less of a time suck, and more community-focused. ■
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