[ tasting notes ]
The Method(e)
Approach Cameron Douglas is New Zealand’s first and only Master Sommelier. He is a Senior Lecturer at AUT University in Auckland, local and international wine judge, wine commentator and wine educator as well as speaker and presenter in New Zealand and internationally. Cameron is also an examiner with the Court of Master Sommeliers Worldwide. He writes the wine lists for a variety of establishments including Mekong Baby, Nanam Republic and Michelin Starred New York establishment The Musket Room.
12
A recent trip to the liquor store reminded me of the vast array of sparkling wine options available and price points for all budgets. With options from Italy to Spain, the USA to France, Australia to New Zealand and several other countries, it is easy to understand why our customers seek advice from experts to help with their purchase decision. If there is no one available to offer advice, then wines with exotic-looking labels, gold award stickers, star ratings and even celebrity endorsements help some final decision-making. None of these endorsements suggest what the wine smells or tastes like, how dry or sweet it may be and whether cellaring is an option. Armed with a little knowledge about how sparkling wine is made, methods used, can and does suggest a certain flavour profile, acidity level and mousse. Sparkling wine made by pumping CO2 gas into a still wine is a cheap and easy way to get a bubbly beverage. Made for immediate consumption, these wines are usually off-dry, can be particularly fruity and will lose bubble quickly. Not for the cellar and best consumed within hours of purchase. They are typically under $12.00 retail and should not be served on licensed premises. Wines made with a deliberate second fermentation in tank or bottle contain natural CO2 and often a more detailed and enticing bouquet. As well as being dry to off-dry (Demi-Sec), these wines offer more flavour, weight and finesse. The bulk production versions of these wines are good and are usually priced in the $12.00 to $20.00 retail bracket. Occasionally found on a wine list as a lower priced
FMCG BUSINESS: THE SHOUT - OCTOBER 2018
alternative to best options. The best sparkling wines are made using the Méthode Traditionnelle process. This process takes the cuvée (blended base wines) and referments it in the same bottle in which it is eventually sold. This second ferment creates the bubble, a denser and often richer flavour profile and a wine to be savoured and engaged in a different way. This traditional process is a carbon copy of the Méthode Champenoise (Champagne) process perfected by the French. Look for the phrase Méthode Tradionnelle on the label to know that you are buying a wine with more attention to detail from producer and hopefully a superior product. Some customers may refer to any sparkling wine as Champagne, however this is not true. Like many wines produced in France, Champagne is named after its origin – the Champagne region. Even outside the region of Champagne, yet still within the borders of France, it cannot be called Champagne, it must be referred to as Crémant. A growing number of New Zealand sparkling wine producers are using Méthode Traditionnelle with some outstanding results. This month’s tasting showcases some of the best on offer with some to rival the more expensive Champagnes. The key aromas to look out for when tasting sparkling wine are as much emotional as they are specific. Beguiling and complex scents of brioche and baked goods alongside white fleshed stone fruits and citrus, a lush and fine mousse then a long and detailed finish.