The Cultured Traveller, June-August 2025, Issue 50

WHERE CONTINENTS CONVERSE BENEATH MINARETS AND DOMES

WARSAW ➤ INSIDE CAIRO’S NEW GRAND EGYPTIAN MUSEUM

THE METROPOLE HANOI ➤ STEPHEN JONES ➤ CELESTE

BANGKOK’S FOOD SCENE ➤ DOMINIC SKINNER

A Dazzling DESTINATION

50 ➤ JUNE – AUGUST 2025

46 MINARETS AND DOMES ON THE BOSPHORUS

Uniquely straddling two continents, ISTANBUL stands as a testament to the confluence of civilisations, cultures, and epochs. From imperial mosques to the aromas of spice bazaars, Nicholas Chrisostomou explores a city of contrasts and confluence, whe re Byzantine grandeur and Ottoman majesty meet modern dynamism at the water’s edge.

78 INSIDE EGYPT’S NEW CULTURAL LANDMARK

Dawn Gibson-Fawcett explores Cairo's new GRAND EGYPTIAN MUSEUM, where colossal statues, ancient artefacts, and modern architecture converge in dramatic style.

84 EUROPE’S CUL TURED CAPITAL OF REINVENTION

With a new modern art museum anchoring a continued wave of cultural momentum in WARSAW, Joe Mortimer explores a happening city whose future continues to be shaped by bold ideas and the creative minds driving them.

127 THE EPITOME OF BRITISH AFTERNOON TEA

A quintessentially British tradition dating back to the 1840s, The Cultured Traveller team follows in the footsteps of royalty and visits the DIAMOND JUBILEE TEA SALON at Fortnum & Mason on Piccadilly.

44 WIN A THREE-NIGHT STAY IN SINGAPORE

Nestled within a sprawling wildlife and nature reserve on the edge of Singapore, recently opened MANDAI RAINFOREST RESORT BY BANYAN TREE connects guests to a world of zoological wonders via an array of meaningful experiences.

Sepetçiler Kasri in the foreground, and Topkapi Palace behind, in Istanbul, Turkey

10 EDITOR’S LETTER

12 NEWSFLASH

Summer 2025 is overflowing with festivals galore. From a celebration of wine, gastronomy and Armenian heritage in YEREVAN, to the transformation of the historic ottoman quarter of SARAJEVO’s atmospheric old town into a stage for music, theatre and the visual arts, and the MONTREUX JAZZ FESTIVAL, which has been a fixture of Europe’s cultural calendar since 1967, The Cultured Traveller highlights this season's best festivals, together with some standout cultural events around the world.

28 REST YOUR HEAD

From the lofty new ST REGIS BELGRADE, which has already

claimed the crown for being the Serbian capital's best hospitality address, to the architecturally beautiful mid-century modernist ONE&ONLY AESTHESIS resort in Glyfada, on the Athenian Riviera, The Cultured Traveller checks into a dozen standout hotels around the world, where we recommend resting your head.

66 SKY BRIEF

The Cultured Traveller rounds-up the latest air travel news from around the globe, including the opening of Cambodia's vast new Foster + Partnersdesigned international airport, 20 kilometres outside Phnom Penh.

72 SUITE ENVY

A short drive from the heart of the ancient UNESCO world heritage town, Nicholas Chrisostomou spreads out in the premiere suite at ROSEWOOD LUANG PRABANG, where French

colonial elegance and Laotian expression meet beside the Nam Dong River.

100 MUSIC CULTURE

122 TASTE & SIP NEWCOMER

In a candid Q&A, the British singersongwriter CELESTE, chats with Adrian Gibson about personal loss, artistic growth, timeless style, and staying grounded while navigating global recognition and creative reinvention.

111 HOSPITALITY ICON

In the heart of Vietnamese capital's French Quarter, The Cultured Traveller visits historic SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI hotel, which has stood as a silent witness to the city’s evolving narrative since 1901.

117 IN CONVERSATION WITH

In the vibrant realm of beauty, few British figures command as much respect and admiration as beloved Glow Up judge DOMINIC SKINNER. In conversation, he opens up about inspiration, identity, and the transformative power of beauty.

130 42 120 111 117 46

Nicholas Chrisostomou dines at TANG DUBAI, where Tokyo meets Kowloon beneath the world's tallest building, and finds a new restaurant that deftly balances precision and theatre.

130 TASTE & SIP FOOD SCENE

Brian Bergey traces BANGKOK'’s culinary evolution, spanning smoky street food stalls to Michelin-starred tasting menus, in a city where flavour, heritage, and innovation are served side by side.

141 LITTLE BLACK BOOK

Web addresses for everywhere featured in issue 50 of The Cultured Traveller magazine.

142 TRAVEL TIPS FROM THE TOP

STEPHEN JONES knows how to make an entrance, whether it’s on a runway or in an arrivals hall. The Cultured Traveller asks the legendary British milliner a dozen questions about how he travels, what he packs, and where he feels most stylishly himself.

JOE MORTIMER

➤ CITY FOCUS ➤ WARSAW

A UK travel writer who specialises in luxury travel and high-end hospitality, and former editor of Destinations of the World News, Joe is a wine enthusiast and qualified sommelier. When he is not operating a corkscrew, Joe can usually be found wandering around the Mendip Hills or planning his next great adventure.

BRIAN BERGEY

➤ FOOD SCENE ➤ BANGKOK

Born in Portland, Brian is co-founder of Lost Plate Food Tours, a culinary tour company with locations in China and SE Asia. As a previous tech exec and serial expat, he is passionate about creating memorable experiences for other travellers. Since leaving the States, Brian has lived in London, Singapore, and Beijing and is happiest when globetrotting.

DAWN GIBSON-FAWCETT

➤ ART CULTURE ➤ GRAND EGYPTIAN MUSEUM

Dawn Gibson-Fawcett is a professional writer who has lived on four continents and travelled to more than 35 countries. Currently Cairo based, she enjoys scuba diving in the Red Sea as well as meandering around Egypt’s museums and art galleries, reading all the labels.

ADRIAN GIBSON

➤ MUSIC CULTURE ➤ CELESTE

For more than two decades, Adrian has worked as a fashion buyer for some of the world’s leading stores, including Selfridges and Harvey Nichols. An avid shopper, he enjoys nothing more than meeting designers and supporting new talent wherever possible, as well as keeping a keen eye on the latest trends.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

PUBLISHER COCO LATTÉ

DESIGN TAHIR IQBAL

EDITORIAL JEMIMA THOMPSON, LISA WEYMAN

ADVERTISING JEREMY GORING

RETOUCHING STELLA ALEVIZAKI

THIS ISSUE’S CONTRIBUTORS

Adrian Gibson, Brian Bergey, Dawn Gibson-Fawcett Howard Healy, Joe Mortimer

WITH THANKS TO

Bora Kizilirmak, Ezgi Su Gul, Lee Sutton, Aline Keuroghlia Gregor Banič, Simeon Gönc

The Cultured Traveller is published by Coco Latté, London

Advertising and sponsorship enquiries: ads@theculturedtraveller.com

Editorial enquiries words@the culturedtraveller.com

Subscription enquiries subscribe@theculturedtraveller.com

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

➤ ISSUE 50

Issue 50 ©️ 2025 Coco Latté. All rights reserved

Reproduction in part or in whole of any part of this magazine is prohibited. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.

The views expressed in The Cultured Traveller are those of its respective contributors and writers and are not necessarily shared by The Cultured Traveller Ltd. or its staff.

The Cultured Traveller always welcomes new contributions, but assumes no responsibility for unsolicited emails, articles, photographs or other materials submitted.

Read issue 50 of The Cultured Traveller here ➤ www.issuu.com/theculturedtraveller/docs/ 50

Follow The Cultured Traveller on @theculturedtraveller @culturedtraveller

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER

COCO LATTÉ, 5 MERCHANT SQ. LONDON W2 1AY, UK

COVER: Rüstem Paşa Mosque in the foreground, with Süleymaniye Mosque behind, in Istanbul, Turkey

IN A WORLD THAT RARELY stands still – where conflict, climate and shifting borders remain part of the everyday – the enduring value of cultural exchange feels more vital than ever. Travel, art, music, food, architecture and design have long offered us a language beyond politics: one that speaks to our shared humanity, invites dialogue, and offers, if not answers, then at the very least, understanding.

This summer, the global cultural calendar is positively brimming. From the newly opened Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw (page 84), to reinvigorated festivals in the Mediterranean and Asia, there is a sense of creative renewal taking place across continents. The arts are flourishing not in spite of current challenges, but often because of them, providing beauty, clarity and provocation in equal measure.

This issue takes you from Istanbul on the Bosphorus Strait (page 46), to Cairo, where the spectacular Grand Egyptian Museum has finally opened (page 78), and on to the Thai capital, where Bangkok's food scene is as varied and colourful as ever (page 130). All are culture-rich destinations where creativity thrives and context matters.

Wherever you travel in the coming months, may you encounter not only beauty, but insight. And may your journeys, as ever, remind you of the exquisite complexity of the world we share.

With fresh momentum behind international mobility – from relaxed visa schemes to the Schengen area’s quiet expansion – the pathways to cultural experiences are widening. And what a time to travel: to attend a biennale where ideas cross borders more freely than people once could; to visit a capital where old spaces are being reimagined for new voices, or to hear a centuriesold aria sung beneath open skies.

I have always believed that cultured travelling is not simply an indulgence but an education.

Nicholas Chrisostomou Editor-in-Chief

@TCTEditor nicholas@theculturedtraveller.com

From left to right: Yaowarat Road in Bangkok; The new Grand Egptian Museum in Cairo; Hagia Sophia in Istanbul The new Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw

Immerse

SUMMER 2025 IS OVERFLOWING WITH FESTIVALS GALORE. FROM A CELEBRATION OF WINE, GASTRONOMY AND ARMENIAN HERITAGE IN YEREVAN, TO THE TRANSFORMATION OF THE HISTORIC OTTOMAN QUARTER OF SARAJEVO’S ATMOSPHERIC OLD TOWN INTO A STAGE FOR MUSIC, THEATRE AND THE VISUAL ARTS, THE CULTURED TRAVELLER HIGHLIGHTS THIS SEASON'S BEST, TOGETHER WITH SOME STANDOUT CULTURAL EVENTS AROUND THE WORLD

YEREVAN WINE DAYS

WITH ROOTS STRETCHING back over 6,000 years, Armenian winemaking is undergoing something of a renaissance, producing expressive, terroir-driven wines from ancient indigenous grape varieties including Areni and Voskehat. And every year, Armenia's capitaL erupts into a celebration of wine, gastronomy, and Armenian heritage during Yerevan Wine Days. Now among the country’s most anticipated summer events, the festival sprawls across Saryan, Tumanyan, and Moskovyan Streets – an area affectionately known as “Wine Street” – welcoming thousands of visitors over three days, who can sample more than 250 wines from over 40 Armenian producers. As day turns to evening, the festival shifts into a street party, with live music, traditional dancing, and restaurant stalls serving modern takes on regional dishes. A curated wine route, guided tastings, and food and wine pairings offer deeper insights into Armenia’s oenological history. More than a showcase for wine, the event is a celebration of Yerevan’s creative and convivial spirit – an open-air gathering that blends ancient traditions with contemporary culture in unforgettable fashion. 6–8 June 2025 www.yerewinedays.am

RED BULL SOAPBOX RACE UTAH

PART THEATRE, PART engineering challenge, Red Bull Soapbox Race returns to Salt Lake City on 14 June 2025 for a day of wild invention and absurd spectacle. First launched in Brussels in 2000, the event has since become a global phenomenon, with over 100 races staged in cities from Sydney to São Paulo. Teams of up to five participants design and build gravitypowered, engine-free vehicles, then hurtle them down Main Street from the State

Capitol grounds, cheered on by thousands. The vehicles—often shaped like food, landmarks or pop culture icons—have included a baby carriage, jail cell and the Golden Gate Bridge. Creativity, not just speed, is the name of the game, with judges awarding points for design, theatrics and crowd reaction. Salt Lake City is one of only three U.S. stops on this year’s tour, making it a key date for fearless tinkerers and lovers of eccentric sport alike. 14 June 2025

www.redbull.com/us-en/events

INTI RAYMI

PERU IS FAMED FOR ITS spectacular festivals featuring traditional, brightly-coloured clothing, vibrant dancing and delicious foods and Inti Raymi is of the nation's most iconic and unmissable cultural celebrations. In Quechua, Inti means “sun” and Raymi , “celebration”. The ancient Inca so feared the weakened effects of the sun during the winter solstice that they would fast, hold elaborate feasts, and sacrifice hundreds of llamas to ensure a fruitful harvest. Today’s re-enactment retains all the pageantry and Inca symbolism, minus the mass animal slaughter. Marking the Inca New Year, it begins at the Temple of the Sun in Cusco, proceeds through the Plaza de Armas, and culminates at the fortress of Sacsayhuamán. Dancers in traditional costume perform ritual choreography to the rhythm of flutes, drums and conch shells. Offerings are made, a single animal is sacrificed, and the new agricultural cycle is welcomed with colour, theatre, and ancient reverence. 24 June 2025

www. cuscoperu.com

LAJKONIK

THE SOUTHERN POLISH city of Kraków, near the country’s border with the Czech Republic, is not short of the odd legend or two. Maiden-devouring dragons, enchanted pigeons and sorcerers who fly about on giant cockerels are all rumoured to frequent the city’s well-preserved medieval core. And every summer, one of the most peculiar of them all springs to life in the city's old town, when a bizarre looking rider – sporting a wizard's hat, oriental attire and a huge

beard – “gallops” into the market square t o meet Kraków’s mayor. His name is Lajkonik and this exotic figure commemorates the triumph of Polish commoners against the troops of invader Genghis Khan. A ccording to Polish legend, when the head of Kraków’s defences defeated the marauders back in the 13th century, Lajkonik slipped into the Mongolian’s robes and triumphantly rode into the city. T he historic event has been re-enacted annually ever since, for more than seven centuries.

26 June 2025

PRIDE NEW YORK

IN THE EARLY HOURS OF 28 June 1969, police raided the Stonewall Inn, a gay bar in New York’s West Village. The protest that followed – known as the Stonewall riots – unfolded over several days and sparked what is now recognised as the start of the modern gay rights movement. A year later, the first pride march took place in the city, evolving into a global movement of visibility, solidarity and resistance. Over time, Pride’s scope has widened to honour those lost to AIDS,

ROSKILDE FESTIVAL

FOUNDED IN 1971 BY A PAIR of music-loving students and managed by a non-profit foundation, Roskilde Festival has grown into an eight-day cultural phenomenon that draws more than 130,000 visitors each year to the Danish town of Roskilde. With its bold and eclectic line-up, the festival spans genres from punk and techno to hip-hop and global fusion. Headliners in recent years have included acts as diverse as Kendrick Lamar, Dua Lipa and

violence, and institutional neglect. Today, Pride New York is a monumental celebration, drawing tens of thousands to its streets, with countless more watching from around the world. This year’s programme spans a week of rallies, concerts, drag shows, and performances across the city’s five boroughs. It all culminates on Saturday 29 June with a carnival-style parade through Manhattan – an exuberant tribute to community, courage, and liberation.

29 June 2025

www.nycpride.org

Kraftwerk. But Roskilde is about more than just music—it is a platform for social consciousness, with sustainability, equality and activism woven into its DNA. The campgrounds become a temporary city filled with themed villages, art installations, community kitchens and late-night revelry. Proceeds support charitable causes, reinforcing Roskilde’s legacy as a festival that doesn’t just entertain, but empowers and inspires. 28 June – 5 July 2025 www.roskilde-festival.dk/en

BAŠČARŠIJA NIGHTS

TRANSFORMING THE historic Ottoman quarter of Sarajevo’s atmospheric old town into a stage for music, theatre, and the visual arts, the 28th annual Baščaršija Nights cultural festival was established in 1996 as a symbol of post-war revival, and has since evolved into one of the capital’s most cherished events, drawing both domestic and international audiences. Running for the entire month of July, performances range from classical concerts and folklore ensembles

to contemporary theatre, jazz nights, and literary readings. Highlights often take place in evocative venues such as the Brusa Bezistan and the open-air atrium of the Gazi Husrev-beg Library. Visitors can wander cobbled streets and discover spontaneous performances nestled among the historic mosques, craft shops, and cafés. What sets Baščaršija Nights apart is its intimacy – an emphasis on community engagement and cultural storytelling in one of Europe’s most resilient and fascinating cities. July 2025 https://bascarsijskenoci.bkc.ba

TATE MODERN’S VIBRANT retrospective, Leigh Bowery!, explores the life of one of the 20th century’s most outrageous performance artists. Born in Melbourne, Bowery electrified London’s underground scene in the 1980s with his confrontational, hand-stitched costumes, many made with Nicola Rainbird and Mr Pearl. The show features over 20 looks, photographs by Fergus Greer, and films by John Maybury. Highlights include his influence on Lucian Freud and fashion icons like Alexander McQueen. Set within his glittering, grotesque world, the exhibition redefines the body as art and identity as performance. Closes 31 August 2025 www.tate.org.uk

GION MATSURI

RUNNING THE ENTIRE

month of July, Kyoto’s Gion Matsuri is arguably Japan’s most well-known festival and certainly among the longest. Centred around Yasaka Shrine in the city’s Gion district, its origins trace back to the year 869, when Kyoto’s citizens first came together to appease the gods during a devastating plague. Today, it is a magnet for photographers and geisha enthusiasts hoping to glimpse geiko and maiko in rare public appearances. Though rituals are held throughout

the month – including lantern-lighting ceremonies, purification rites, and the display of treasured heirlooms – the most celebrated spectacles are the grand Yamaboko Junko processions on 17 and 24 July. Towering wooden floats, divided into two categories – Yama and Hoko – are paraded along Shijo, Kawaramachi and Oike streets. Lavishly decorated with textiles and carvings, a typical Hoko can reach 25 metres in height, weigh up to 12 tons, and requires over 30 men to pull it through the city’s narrow streets. July 2025 www.kyokanko.or.jp/gion

MONTREUX JAZZ FESTIVAL

SET AGAINST THE serene backdrop of Lac Léman (Lake Geneva) and the surrounding Alpine foothills, the Montreux Jazz Festival has been a fixture of Europe’s cultural calendar since 1967. Every year since then, for just over a fortnight, the lakeside resort town welcomes music lovers to one of the world’s most prestigious music festivals, though its programming now stretches far beyond jazz. Past editions have included performances from icons such as Nina Simone, David Bowie, and Radiohead. This year's proceedings will be headlined by Diana Ross (pictured), Neil Young, and Chaka Khan, along with breakthrough artists including Raye, Sam Fender and Shaboozey. Beyond the performances, the festival is known for its intimate atmosphere: small venues, legendary jam sessions, and the famously high-calibre acoustics. Between shows, visitors can take boat rides or explore the town’s beautiful Belle Époque architecture. For connoisseurs of live music, Montreux is a pilgrimage worth making.

4–20 July 2025 www.montreuxjazzfestival.com

Diana Ross

WATERBOMB SEOUL

SEOUL’S SUMMER reaches new heights of exuberance during Waterbomb Festival, an annual three-day explosion of music and aquatic revelry. Hosted at Kintex in Goyang, just outside the capital, the event combines top-tier K-pop and hip-hop performances with high-energy water battles involving water guns, cannons, and synchronised sprays. The 2025 line-up includes EXO’s Kai and 2NE1, adding to the buzz around this year’s edition. The festival is divided into

teams, each with its own colours and artists, igniting a friendly sense of competition amongst the audience. Strobe lights and electronic beats bounce off water jets in a spectacle of light and sound, while DJs keep the tempo thumping long into the evening. More than just a party, Waterbomb offers an imaginative twist on the traditional music festival format, delivering an adrenaline-charged, full-body experience that is pure Seoul: bold, dynamic, and wildly entertaining. 4–6 July 2025 www.waterbombfestival.com

WORLD WIFECARRYING CHAMPIONSHIPS

THIS ECCENTRIC annual contest, now in its fourth decade, has its origins in a tribal practice involving the theft of women from neighbouring villages. Legend has it that a 19th-century bandit named RosvoRonkainen had a particular penchant for abducting wives – an unsettling tradition that has since evolved into an internationally renowned event. Hosted in the Finnish town of Sonkajärvi, the modern-day World Wife-Carrying Championships attract around 40 competing couples from seven different countries, all vying to complete a 253.5-metre course in the quickest time possible. The route consists of mixed terrain – sand, grass, and multiple obstacles – including two log jumps and a water hazard one metre deep. If the woman weighs under 49 kilograms, she must carry a weighted rucksack to reach the minimum qualifying weight. Teams employ various carrying styles, though the most favoured remains the “Estonian lift”, where the wife, helmeted for safety, hangs upside down over her partner’s back.

4–5 July 2025

https://eukonkanto.fi

KNYSNA OYSTER FESTIVAL

ONE OF THE RAINBOW nation’s most beloved lifestyle and sporting gatherings, the Knysna Oyster Festival is a ten-day, family-friendly celebration held annually in the heart of South Africa’s Garden Route. Attracting both food lovers and outdoor enthusiasts, it offers a packed programme of activities. Central to the festivities are the oysters themselves – served freshly shucked, grilled, poached, tempura-battered or flambéed – in venues across town. Attendees can take part in competitive oyster eating, shucking contests, cooking demonstrations, and farm tours along the Knysna estuary. Culinary events include oyster and wine pairings, gourmet dinners, and recipe challenges judged by local chefs. Complementing the indulgence is a strong sporting component, with trail runs, cycling races and paddling events drawing athletes from across the country. Despite a partial pivot to online content during recent pandemic years, the 2025 edition will see festivalgoers once again descending on this lush Western Cape town to feast, compete and explore. 4–13 July 2025

www.oysterfestival.co.za

DUBROVNIK SUMMER FESTIVAL

FOUNDED IN 1950, THE Dubrovnik Summer

Festival is one of Europe’s most distinguished cultural gatherings, transforming the walled city into a spectacular open-air stage. Each summer, the grandeur of Renaissance, Baroque and medieval architecture meets an expansive programme of theatre, music, opera, and dance. Historic venues such as the Rector’s Palace, Lovrijenac Fortress, Sponza Palace and Revelin Bastion host over 70 performances across the festival’s six-week run. Audiences can expect orchestral concerts, site-specific productions, contemporary Croatian plays and Shakespearean revivals, often performed in Croatian and English. Highlights include promenade-style shows that weave through narrow limestone alleyways and courtyards, inviting spectators into the heart of the action. Against the backdrop of illuminated façades and the shimmering Adriatic, the atmosphere becomes almost cinematic. A true celebration of heritage and innovation, the festival draws a cosmopolitan audience to Croatia’s southern coast each year, reinforcing Dubrovnik’s status as a cultural and artistic stronghold. 10 July – 25 August 2025 www.dubrovnik-festival.hr/en

NAADAM

HELD ANNUALLY ACROSS Mongolia, with the grandest celebrations happening in the capital, Ulaanbaatar, Naadam is a national festival rooted in centuries of nomadic tradition, which showcases the “Three Manly Games” of wrestling, horse racing, and archery. These are not simply sporting contests, but expressions of cultural identity, with their heritage in tribal rites and Genghis Khan’s military drills. The festival opens at the National Sports Stadium with a colourful procession of athletes, musicians, monks, and dancers, followed by days of spirited competition. Wrestlers wear traditional “zodog” and “shuudag” garments, while archers aim for precision using hand-carved bows. Meanwhile, young jockeys, some as young as six, gallop bareback across the steppe in dramatic long-distance horse races. Market stalls, folk performances, and vast feasts surround the main events. For visitors, Naadam offers not only spectacle, but profound insight into Mongolian identity, where strength, endurance, and hospitality remain national virtues. 11–13 July 2025

WORLD BODYPAINTING FESTIVAL: CAMOUFLAGE CATEGORY

FOR MILLENNIA, THE HUMAN body has served as a canvas –painted, adorned or inked in ceremonies, rituals and acts of

self-expression. Among the most vibrant festivals devoted to this tradition is the World Bodypainting Festival, a dazzling fusion of visual culture, music and creativity that has captivated audiences for over two decades. One of its most mesmerising segments is the World Award: Camouflage category, a competition that spotlights the extraordinary technique of blending painted models seamlessly into their surroundings. It’s an artistic challenge that demands precision, imagination and mastery of perspective. In 2025, the category will unfold in the postcard-perfect Alpine town of Sterzing/Vipiteno in northern Italy. Over two days, the cobbled streets and colourful façades of this medieval gem become part of the illusion, as painted bodies all but disappear into doorways, windows and stone walls. The town’s warm spirit and dramatic mountain backdrop heighten the surreal beauty of the event. 12–13 July 2025 https://bodypainting-festival.com

GALWAY INTERNATIONAL ARTS FESTIVAL

EACH SUMMER, the bohemian city of Galway becomes a canvas for artistic expression during the Galway International Arts Festival, Now in its 47th edition, this dynamic event is one of Ireland’s most significant cultural celebrations, drawing talent from across the globe for two weeks of theatre, music, visual art, and spectacle. The programme is renowned for its breadth and ambition, blending avant-garde performance with world-class musical acts and thought-provoking installations. The

city’s streets, squares and pubs come alive with pop-up shows, surreal street theatre, and spontaneous musical happenings. Meanwhile, venues like the Black Box Theatre and St. Nicholas’ Church host premieres and cutting-edge productions. Alongside the performances, the festival’s First Thought Talks series sparks discussions about politics, philosophy, and art. With the lively hum of Galway Bay as its soundtrack, this festival offers a rare confluence of creative ingenuity and west-coast charm.

14–27 July 2025 www. giaf.ie/festival

FESTIVAL INTERNACIONAL DE BENICÀSSIM

EVERY JULY, THE VALENCIAN coastal town of Benicàssim becomes the epicentre of alternative music culture during the Festival Internacional de Benicàssim (FIB), with thousands descending on this sun-drenched stretch of the Costa del Azahar to revel in a four-day programme of indie, rock, electronic and pop performances from both global headliners and rising talents. The festival’s unique appeal lies in its laid-back Mediterranean vibe – attendees spend the day

relaxing on sandy beaches and the evenings immersed in high-octane musical performances. The action spills across several stages, with past performers including Arctic Monkeys, Lana Del Rey and Kendrick Lamar. Beyond the music, there are art installations, food markets and late-night DJ sets that keep the energy flowing until dawn. With its seamless fusion of beach culture and big-name acts, FIB has become a rite of passage for Europe’s festival faithful.

17–20 July 2025

https:// fiberfib.com

BOULIA CAMEL RACES

HELD EVERY JULY IN the spectacularly remote town of Boulia –little more than a sun-baked speck on the edge of the Simpson Desert in Outback Queensland – the Boulia Camel Cup is the longest camel race in Australia. Spanning 1.5 kilometres, the main event is a coveted title on the country’s quirky but fiercely competitive camel racing circuit. Much of the sport’s thrill lies in the temperament of its four-legged stars. Camels grunt, gurn, and spit great distances. They might bolt, hesitate, or – just as likely –stubbornly walk backwards. Once in motion however, they can reach surprising speeds, making it a serious challenge for jockeys to remain saddled. Beyond the Cup, the three-day festival includes all manner of eccentric fun: camel tagging contests that defy logic, yabby races, children’s rides, pyrotechnics, and raucous live music each night. The atmosphere is exuberant, dusty, and uniquely Australian– equal parts rodeo, racetrack, and outback fair.

18–20 July 2025

www.bouliacamelraces.com.au

OUTLOOK ORIGINS

THE OUTLOOK TEAM returns to Tisno, Croatia this summer for the latest edition of Outlook

Origins—a sun-drenched celebration of sub-heavy sounds spanning drum & bass, dubstep, UK garage, reggae and everything in between. Hosted at the much-loved Garden Resort, which sits in a secluded bay between Zadar and Split, the festival has become a magnet for fans of underground music culture. By day, revellers dance on the beachfront and board boat parties that cruise along the

BORYEONG MUD FESTIVAL

THE MAIN ATTRACTIONS of South Korea’s most popular summer festival are giant pools, slides and wrestling pits filled with mineral-rich mud. Launched in 1998 to promote Boryeong’s skincare products, the event has since evolved into a global phenomenon, drawing huge crowds to Daecheon Beach. The mud—sourced from flats 200 kilometres south of Seoul—is prized for its high concentrations of bentonite and germanium, both said to benefit the skin. Once

delivered to the beach, it’s transformed into a sprawling playground where visitors can slide, splash and grapple in the sludge. There’s a massive mud bath, mud painting, and even a marine-style obstacle course for the truly adventurous. Those seeking something gentler unwind in the massage zone, where spa-style treatments use the very same grey goo. As the sun sets, DJs take over, fireworks light the sky, and a raucous beach party carries the festival late into the evening. 25 July – 10 August 2025 www.mudfestival.or.kr

SOM FESTIVAL

Adriatic coast. After dark, three immersive stages keep the energy high, with open-air sets that pulse until the early hours. Not far away, Barbarellas disco draws crowds for legendary after-parties under the stars. Headliners for the 2025 edition include UK trailblazer Dominick Martin aka Calibre, revered for his soulful, rolling drum & bass sets (pictured), and Mala, co-founder of the iconic DMZ label and a pioneer of deep, meditative dubstep. Expect five rhythm-soaked days and nights. 24–28 July 2025 www.outlookorigins.com

FROM 24 JULY TO 17 August 2025, the Mediterranean port city of Castellón hosts SOM Festival – a boutique cultural event that has quickly gained prestige for its fusion of high-calibre performances and gourmet experiences. Set on the city’s marina, the festival’s standout innovation is its “Boat Experience,” which allows guests to watch headline acts from the comfort of a private yacht moored just offshore. The 2025 line-up includes international stars, such as Il Divo

and Tom Jones, alongside Spanish artists and emerging talents. On land, Michelin-starred chefs craft elevated menus at the festival’s fine-dining spaces, ensuring that gastronomy plays a central role in the experience. Beyond the stage, the setting offers quiet luxury: soft sea breezes, golden light, and the gentle rhythm of waves create a blissfully relaxed atmosphere. SOM Festival appeals to discerning travellers who value intimacy, artistry, and a touch of indulgence.

24 July – 17 August 2025 https://somfestival.es

Calibre

ESALA PERAHERA

ONE OF THE MOST revered events in the Buddhist calendar, Esala Perahera takes place in the UNESCO-recognised city of Kandy, Sri Lanka’s spiritual nucleus and second-largest city. This ten-day celebration pays homage to the Sacred Tooth Relic, said to have been spirited out of India in the 4th century AD and now enshrined in Kandy’s iconic Sri Dalada Maligawa – The Temple of the Tooth. Each night, the city’s streets become a stage for processions that grow in grandeur as the days progress. Expect flame jugglers, whip crackers, drummers, acrobats, and elaborately costumed elephants clad in shimmering fabric, all illuminated by torchlight. The energy builds as thousands gather to witness the spectacle. The closing ritual, known as Diya Kepeema , takes place at the Mahaweli Ganga River and symbolises the cleansing of impurities and the invocation of blessings from the gods who protect the rains and ensure agricultural prosperity.

30 July – 9 August 2025 https://srilanka.travel

WAY OUT WEST

SEVILLE’S MOST

Favouring musical ingenuity over commercial formula, Way Out West is billed as “multi-genre madness in Sweden”—and lives up to the name. For three days each August, the leafy surrounds of Slottsskogen Park in southwest Gothenburg transform into a cultural playground. Five open-air stages set around a duck-dotted lake host performances spanning rock, hip-hop, electro, pop and more. Since its launch in 2007, the festival

has built a reputation for bold programming and award-winning sustainability efforts, becoming one of Scandinavia’s most admired events. By day, the park pulses with live music and good vibes; by night, fans flood Gothenburg’s clubs for Stay Out West’s hedonistic afterparties. Among this year’s headliners are synth-pop legends Pet Shop Boys, whose theatrical sets and timeless anthems like West End Girls and It’s a Sin continue to captivate audiences across generations (pictured). 7–9 August 2025 www.wayoutwest.se

THE EDINBURGH FESTIVAL FRINGE

SPRAWLING, ECLECTIC and proudly unfiltered, “The Fringe” began in 1947 when eight theatre companies turned up uninvited to perform alongside the inaugural Edinburgh International Festival. Their rogue appearance sparked a tradition of inclusivity that has since evolved into the world’s largest arts festival. The name was coined a year later by playwright Robert Kemp, describing performers working “round the fringe of the official festival.” Today, more than 75 years on, it remains gloriously open-access –anyone with a show and a venue can take part. And so every August, Edinburgh is flooded with actors, comedians, dancers, poets, magicians and musicians. Performances span student troupes and first-timers to household names and award-winners, staged in theatres, basements, cafés and alleyways. For 2025, both digital and in-person shows are expected, creating a global platform for boundary-pushing performance and unfiltered creativity. Whether it’s experimental theatre or stand-up in a shipping container, anything can, and usually does, happen. 1–25 August 2025 www.edfringe.com

Pet Shop Boys

NOTTING HILL CARNIVAL

FEW STREET FESTIVALS in Europe can rival the scale or spirit of the Notting Hill Carnival, which transforms west London into a kaleidoscope of colour, rhythm, and Caribbean pride for a long weekend every year. Established in the 1960s by London’s Caribbean community as a celebration of cultural identity and resilience, the carnival has grown into one of the world’s great urban spectacles. Masquerade bands in sequins and feathers dance through the streets to the sounds of steelpan, soca and dancehall, while static sound systems create entire street-side dancefloors. The Sunday parade is family-focused, while Monday’s Grand Finale draws immense crowds to witness the full explosion of music, movement and joy. Food stalls serve jerk chicken and curried goat and the air is fragrant with spice and smoke. Notting Hill Carnival remains both a dazzling party and a powerful reminder of London’s multicultural roots.

23–25 August 2025

https:// nhcarnival.org

ROTOTOM SUNSPLASH

EVERY SUMMER, FOR about a week, the seaside Spansh town of Benicàssim becomes the global capital of reggae, welcoming thousands of fans for a celebration of music, unity, and cultural exchange. Founded in Italy in 1994, Rototom moved to Spain in 2010, and its Mediterranean setting provides an idyllic backdrop for this joyful gathering. Reggae legends, emerging artists and sound system collectives take to multiple stages, while daytime programming includes yoga

sessions, documentary screenings, debates on social justice, and children’s workshops. The “African Village” zone explores pan-African culture and history, while the “Dub Academy” draws lovers of heavy bass and roots rhythms. But it’s the festival’s ethos of peace, openness, and inclusivity that truly sets it apart. Rototom Sunsplash is not merely a music event, but a social movement dressed in colour and rhythm and bathed in summer sunshine.

26 June 2025

https:// rototomsunsplash.com

LA TOMATINA

FIRST STAGED IN 1945 and now attracting tens of thousands each year, La Tomatina is the world’s biggest organised food fight, involving the frenzied flinging of more than 100 tonnes of overripe tomatoes. It takes place in the picturesque Valencian town of Buñol, on Spain’s eastern seaboard, and unfolds with chaotic glee on the final Wednesday of August. At precisely 11am, a water cannon signals the start of the tomato tossing; 60 minutes later, a second blast

marks the end of the spectacle. By then, the streets, and the participants, are drenched in pulpy red sludge. The festival’s origins remain delightfully murky: some claim it began when two boys began throwing tomatoes during a local parade; others believe it stemmed from a protest against a council decision, or even as an impromptu response to a particularly bad musical performance. Regardless, the result is now a beloved and gloriously anarchic summer ritual. 27 August 2025 https:// latomatina.org

WORLD BOG SNORKELLING CHAMPIONSHIPS

TUCKED INTO THE Cambrian Mountains, the small town of Llanwrtyd Wells has been hosting the World Bog Snorkelling Championships for four decades. This wildly unconventional competition challenges participants to swim two lengths of a 55-metre trench carved into the murky Waen Rhydd peat bog, relying solely on flippers and a snorkel. No traditional strokes are allowed, adding to the absurdity and physical demand. First held as a quirky fundraising idea in 1985, the event has since gained international fame, drawing competitors from across the globe. In recent years, more than 150 brave souls have paid twenty Pounds each for the privilege of plunging into the weed-choked, chest-deep water. Some arrive in fancy dress, others in wetsuits, but all are met with cheering spectators and the smell of wet moss. Winners in the men’s and women’s categories will be crowned on Sunday 24 August, rewarded for both speed and a strong sense of humour. 24 August 2025

www. green-events.co.uk

CARTIER

THE V&A’S CARTIER EXHIBITION showcases over 350 dazzling objects from the iconic jeweller. On display are royal commissions, celebrity heirlooms, and design sketches spanning Cartier’s evolution from 19th-century Paris to a global luxury house. Highlights include Queen Elizabeth II’s Williamson brooch, Princess Grace’s engagement ring, and Rihanna’s Scroll Tiara. Curated by Helen Molesworth and Rachel Garrahan, the show explores innovation, symbolism and legacy, tracing the maison’s role in shaping modern glamour.

Closes 16 November 2025

https://vam.ac.uk

rest your

FROM A LOFTY NEW LUXURY HOTEL WHICH HAS ALREADY CLAIMED THE CROWN FOR BEING BELGRADE'S BEST HOSPITALITY ADDRESS, TO AN ARCHITECTURALLY BEAUTIFUL MIDCENTURY MODERNIST BEACH RESORT IN GLYFADA, ON THE ATHENIAN RIVIERA, THE CULTURED TRAVELLER CHECKS INTO A DOZEN STANDOUT PLACES AROUND THE WORLD, WHERE WE RECOMMEND RESTING YOUR HEAD

head

➤ BELGRADE ➤ HÀ GIANG ➤ MUMBAI

➤ BARCELONA ➤ NAPLES ➤ EZÉ

➤ PHUKET ➤ PUTIGNANO ➤ LONG BEACH

➤ KYOTO ➤ VAL DI NOTO ➤ GLYFADA

THE ST. REGIS BELGRADE

SET AT THE CONFLUENCE OF THE DANUBE AND SAVA rivers , Belgrade is one of Europe’s oldest continuously inhabited cities, its foundations shaped by Celts, expanded by Romans, fortified by Byzantines, and contested by Ottomans and Habsburgs. This complex heritage is etched into its architecture: the crenellated Kalemegdan Fortress surveys the city from a wooded ridge, while Socialist-era blocks loom beside neoclassical façades and art nouveau gems.

Once the vibrant heart of Yugoslavia, Belgrade today pulses with irreverent energy, a city unafraid to juxtapose the grand with the improvised. Bohemian Skadarlija hums with kafanas and the scent of grilled meats, while the former industrial zone of Savamala hosts exhibitions in cavernous warehouses and impromptu jazz sessions beneath Brutalist murals. Despite wars and transitions, the Serbian capital has retained its defiant spirit and peculiar charm: fiercely independent, endlessly layered, and unpolished in a way that feels utterly authentic. Now, as glass towers rise along the riverbank and promenades emerge where shipping cranes once stood, the city’s gaze turns westward, towards the expansive Belgrade Waterfront project – undoubtedly one of the city’s most coveted addresses.

Designed by the renowned global firm of Skidmore, Owings & Merrill, with interiors by HOK, the new St. Regis Belgrade is housed within a gleaming 42-storey riverfront tower in Belgrade Waterfront. A striking addition to the

skyline, this cutting-edge luxury hotel blends cosmopolitan glamour with discreet sophistication, offering panoramic views over the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers.

From the moment of arrival, guests are immersed in the celebrated rituals of the St. Regis brand – from a personalised butler service to the artful tradition of sabrage. Interiors are timeless yet contemporary, with sumptuous materials and refined detailing that subtly nod to Belgrade’s layered cultural heritage.

119 guest rooms and suites are havens of tranquillity, combining soft palettes with plush textures, bespoke furnishings, and water views via floor-to-ceiling windows.

Culinary offerings are equally elevated, and include an all-day restaurant that champions seasonal Balkan flavours with international flair; a chic café and pâtisserie that showcases the delectable creations of talented pâtissière, Jennifer d'Souza, and a St. Regis Bar, which serves top notch cocktails in elegant surrounds, including the hotel's signature Belgrade-inspired Bloody Mary.

With its enviable setting, elevated service, luxurious accommodations, and sleek design, The St. Regis Belgrade is almost certainly the best hospitality address in town.

https://st-regis.marriott.com

FOUR POINTS BY SHERATON HÀ GIANG

CRADLED IN VIETNAM’S REMOTE NORTHERN REACHES, Hà Giang is a hauntingly beautiful province where limestone peaks rise in jagged succession and mist coils through ancient valleys.

Once a strategic frontier and now amongst the country’s least-developed areas, Hà Giang remains a cultural stronghold for more than a dozen ethnic minorities, including the Hmong, Tay, and Dao, who preserve traditional ways of life in terraced villages balanced above precipitous slopes.

The province’s capital, also named Hà Giang, is a modest riverside metropolis, and is less a destination than a departure point for the legendary Đong Văn Karst Plateau, a UNESCO Global Geopark of staggering geological and anthropological significance and beauty. From here, the serpentine Hanh Phúc Road twists toward the northernmost point of Vietnam, culminating in Lũng Cú’s flag tower, where views spill across the Chinese border. Along the way, highland markets teem with embroidered textiles and forest herbs, while quiet passes echo with the chime of buffalo bells and the far-off cry of hill birds.

Located in the heart of Hà Giang city, Four Points by Sheraton’s modern new hotel is the perfect base from which to explore the wealth of cultural and historical treasures that Hà Giang has to offer visitors. Large windows in the hotel’s 151 elegant guest rooms and suites frame views of the city and mountains, and include a 177 square metre presidential suite. Meanwhile a selection of onsite culinary venues keep guests well-fuelled for their

adventures, including a bright fifth floor restaurant which serves authentic Vietnamese dishes; a relaxed lobby lounge for casual catch-ups at the end of a day of exploration, and a rooftop bar to sip handcrafted cocktails while soaking up the panoramic vistas. https://four-points.marriott.com

Four Points by Sheraton Ha Giang

Đồng Văn Karst Plateau Geopark

FAIRMONT MUMBAI

ONCE A CLUSTER OF SEVEN SWAMPY ISLANDS ON THE Konkan coast, Mumbai is today India’s most electrifying metropolis – an intricate weave of colonial relics, architectural landmarks, and twenty-first-century ambition. Known as Bombay until 1995, the city rose to prominence under British rule as a major port and remains the nation’s financial engine, home to both the Bombay Stock Exchange and the country’s most prolific film industry.

Marine Drive curves like a shimmering necklace along the Arabian Sea, while Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus – an exuberant Victorian-Gothic structure – anchors the city’s frenetic south. In the lanes of Kala Ghoda, contemporary galleries coexist with Irani cafés, and in Bandra’s leafy byways, Portuguese-era bungalows neighbour concept boutiques and chic bars. Despite its relentless tempo, Mumbai also accommodates the sacred – be sure to witness the twilight crowds at Haji Ali Dargah, or the rhythmic chants at Siddhivinayak Temple. Northward, the city spills beyond Juhu’s beachfront into the densely networked western suburbs, where the neighbourhood of Sahar quietly unfolds.

Unveiled in April 2025, Fairmont Mumbai has introduced a fresh and highly polished property to the city’s luxury hotel scene. Set in Sahar just moments from the city's main international airport, it is perfectly placed for travellers unwilling to compromise on style or serenity, with its 446 rooms and suites deftly blending crisp Art Deco geometry with subtle Indian detailing, and many affording expansive views over the runway or city skyline.

Gue sts booking Fairmont Gold accommodation enjoy private checkin, discreet butler service, and access to an exclusive lounge offering curated breakfasts and apéritifs.

Dining is varied and inventive: Samaa plates up Mediterranean flavours beneath swaying palms, while Oryn delivers nuanced Sichuan and Cantonese dishes. An Indo-French patisserie, Madeleine de Proust, tempts with refined bakes, while The Hedonist bar channels old-world glamour in its drinks and atmosphere alike.

T he hotel’s spa and longevity centre offers everything from red light therapy to hyperbaric chambers and cryotherapy, and is complemented by a 24-hour gym equipped with the latest AI-enabled Technogym equipment. And for families, there’s a children’s pool, a club for undersixes, and the option of interconnecting guest rooms.

Fairmont Mumbai may sit beside an airport runway, but this plush resort-like urban oasis feels far, far removed from the hassles of transit. www.fairmont.com/en

SLS BARCELONA

BARCELONA’S BEAUTY LIES NOT ONLY IN ITS AESTHETICS , but in its layered narrative – a Mediterranean city shaped by Roman foundations, Catalan fervour, and avant-garde expression. From the shadowy lanes of the Gothic Quarter to the sun-drenched elegance of Eixample, its streets unfold like an open-air museum, each corner etched with ambition and artistry. Antoni Gaudí’s undulating facades and kaleidoscopic mosaics continue to astonish, yet the city’s pulse beats just as vividly in the hum of Sant Antoni’s market stalls, the experimental cuisine of El Born, and the lingering chords of flamenco drifting through Poble-sec. A cultural crucible, Barcelona is also a city of rebellion and resilience – having weathered sieges, dictatorships, and economic flux with a singular flair. Along the revitalised seafront, palm-lined promenades connect beaches with marinas, drawing joggers, skaters, and sun-seekers in equal measure. As dusk approaches, yachts cast long shadows across the water, and the air carries a scent of salt and citrus. Venture further northeast, beyond the curve of Diagonal Mar, and the rhythm softens. Here, in the sleek amphitheatre of the evolving Port Fòrum district, Barcelona slips into a more languid mood – one of quiet moorings, moonlit decks, and whispered conversations on the breeze.

The recent arrival of SLS has turned-up the volume along the city’s waterfront. Tucked into Port Fòrum, the hotel cuts a striking silhouette above the marina – all sharp angles, white curves, and glassy reflections, its 471 rooms and suites leaning into the brand’s signature flamboyance, with mirrored surfaces, sculptural lighting, and sea-facing balconies that catch the Mediterranean light.

Inside, the mood is unmistakably hedonistic. Guests drift from the rooftop pool bar, where DJs provide a soulful soundtrack for sunset

cocktails, to the sultry lounge below, which serves Iberian tapas late into the night. Lora, the hotel’s signature restaurant, champions openflame cooking, while Cosmico offers breezy alfresco dining with a side of tableside theatricality. Every venue delivers drama, each with a different accent.

T here’s a moody subterranean spa for those seeking to relax and unwind, and a light-filled state-of-the-art gym open 24/7, for the energised wishing to reboot. Complimentary bicycles reflect the city’s kinetic charm, though the temptation to stay in the hotel is greater!

With its sculptural façade, spirited social spaces and unabashed flair, SLS Barcelona reinvents the urban resort as somewhere to linger, lounge, and occasionally dance until dawn. https://slshotels.com/barcelona

THE PERRY HOTEL NAPLES

PERCHED ON THE TRANQUIL GULF COAST OF SOUTHWEST

Florida, Naples has long attracted those drawn to understated luxury and pristine natural beauty. Established in the late 19th century as a winter retreat, the city took its name from the Italian counterpart, inspired by its serene bay and temperate climate. Today, Naples is defined by its manicured avenues, world-class golf courses, and a cultural calendar that belies its size – think chamber music under the palms, contemporary art in sunlit galleries, and ballet in intimate theatres.

Stately homes fringe palm-lined boulevards, and the historic Naples Pier remains a favoured spot for sunset strolls and pelican-watching. Nearby, mangrove estuaries offer quiet passage for kayaks and roseate spoonbills, while Fifth Avenue South hosts refined dining and designer boutiques beneath canopied walkways. As the city gently expands northward, its genteel spirit finds fresh expression. In North Naples, a contemporary address is emerging just moments from the shore: The Perry Hotel, a new arrival blending coastal ease with Floridian sophistication.

Opened in January 2025, this 160-room boutique hotel is perched along the Cocohatchee River, blending modern design with natural beauty. Accommodations feature floor-to-ceiling windows, private balconies, and interiors that marry contemporary aesthetics with nautical touches. Guests unwind at two distinct pools: a ground-level oasis and a rooftop retreat offering panoramic views.

Culinary experiences are a highlight. Tigress, the rooftop Cantonese chophouse helmed by Chef Dale Talde, presents dishes like dry-aged duck and blue crab fried rice. Adjacent, Easy Tiger bar serves craft cocktails in a vibrant setting.

Amenities include a state-of-the-art fitness centre, a cosy coffee shop, and a riverwalk leading to a private marina. Throughout The Perry, interiors pay homage to the hotel's surroundings, incorporating locally-sourced materials and artworks.

In a city where ocean breezes meet Southern charm, The Perry Hotel Naples seamlessly combines riverside tranquillity with contemporary flair, offering guests an elevated escape in the heart of Florida’s Gulf Coast.

www. perryhotelnaples.com

CHÂTEAU EZA

TUCKED BETWEEN THE RADIANT ENCLAVES OF NICE AND Monaco, Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat is a secluded promontory where the Côte d’Azur softens into something more refined. Once a quiet fishing hamlet, it was transformed in the early 20th century into an exclusive retreat for European aristocracy, crowned heads, and discerning aesthetes. Today, it remains a bastion of discretion and beauty – its pine-fringed trails meandering past Belle Époque villas and hidden coves lapped by crystalline waters.

T he legendary Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild, with its themed gardens and view-drenched loggias, evokes an era of extravagant elegance. Meanwhile Paloma Beach offers a more languid escape beneath ochre cliffs and parasol pines. Sailboats nod gently in the harbour, and the scent of jasmine carries on the breeze as bougainvillaea tumbles over limestone walls.

Though boutique in scale, Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat holds a rich cultural allure, its charm lying in quiet corners and coastal footpaths. Follow the winding corniche eastward, where the landscape rises and the air grows sharper, and you’ll reach the medieval village of Èze – perched high above the sea, steeped in legend, and seemingly suspended in time.

Château Eza is not the sort of place one stumbles upon. Clinging to cliffs, high above the Mediterranean, this chic hideaway feels somewhat suspended between sky and sea – part fairytale, part fortress. Once home to a Swedish prince, the property still retains a regal hush behind its medieval stone walls and flower-draped passageways. But today the pace is relaxed, the service considered, and the setting is timeless.

Inside, many of the 14 guest rooms and suites have been just been redesigned by ASTET and feature exposed beams, antique furnishings, timber and marble detailing, and terraces angled toward a staggering Côte d’Azur panorama.

Helmed by celebrated chef Justin Schmitt, at the hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant, modern French cuisine is served on a candlelit balcony that seems to hover above the sea.

Radiating an atmosphere of intimacy and romance, and blending 400-yearold architecture with quietly assured service, Château Eza is a place for lingering mornings, discreet luxury, and extraordinary views that frame every experience.

www. chateaueza.com

VERANDA RESORT PHUKET

THAILAND’S LARGEST ISLAND HAS LONG SEDUCED travellers with its heady blend of tropical scenery, maritime heritage and cosmopolitan allure. Once a pivotal trading post on the maritime Silk Road, its shores welcomed Arab, Indian and Chinese merchants, leaving a cultural imprint still evident in the pastel-shuttered Sino-Portuguese townhouses of Old Phuket Town. Beyond the bustling markets and gilded temples, the island reveals quieter rhythms: rubber plantations, shrimp farms and hilltop sanctuaries where monks chant at dawn. Along the western coast, crescent-shaped bays fringe turquoise waters, while longtail boats drift between coral reefs and forested islets. Phuket’s culinary scene, recognised by UNESCO, draws from Malay, Peranakan and southern Thai traditions, yielding dishes layered with spice, sweetness and citrus. Yet for all its energy, the island still shelters pockets of calm. Travel south-east beyond the well-trodden routes, where coconut palms sway over empty sands and hillside villas gaze across sapphire waters, and you’ll reach the secluded Cape Panwa peninsula – an untouched sliver of serenity on Phuket’s quieter side.

Nestled on the coast of Cape Panwa peninsula, Veranda Resort Phuket offers a serene escape from the island’s more bustling beaches, weaving natural beauty with cultural authenticity. Opened in early 2025 as Phuket’s first Autograph Collection property, this 159-room retreat blends contemporary design with subtle nods to local heritage. Curved lines, pastel hues, and natural textures echo the Sino-Portuguese architecture of nearby Phuket Old Town.

Rooms range from oceanview suites to expansive pool villas, each featuring private terraces and interiors adorned with locally crafted art.

Three distinct pools – including a beachfront infinity pool – invite relaxation, while a full-service spa offers treatments that fuse Eastern and Western wellness traditions.

Dining is a highlight at Veranda Resort: The Parlour serves refined Thai and international dishes with sea views, Bar Botan offers inventive cocktails in a lush garden setting, and a seasonal beachfront pop-up provides a casual, toes-in-the-sand experience.

A refined sanctuary on the island’s serene southeastern shore, Veranda Resort Phuket offers a tranquil blend of tropical beauty with authentic heritage.

https://autograph-hotels.marriott.com

CASINA CINQUEPOZZI

THE SUN-DRENCHED HEEL OF ITALY’S BOOT, PUGLIA stretches between the Adriatic and Ionian seas, its landscapes shaped by centuries of conquests, cultivation and quiet persistence. This is a region of silvery olive groves, chalky plateaus and fortified farmsteads, where ancient Roman roads still trace the contours of rolling countryside.

Settlements once ruled by Normans, Byzantines and Aragonese now slumber beneath rose-coloured skies, their piazzas echoing with church bells and the clink of espresso cups. Nowhere is the contrast between antiquity and vitality more compelling than in Bari, the region’s capital.

Once a gritty port, the city has reawakened in recent years with a graceful confidence – its lungomare flanked by Liberty-style architecture, its old town alive with women hand-rolling orecchiette outside medieval doorways. The crypt of the Basilica di San Nicola, said to house the remains of Saint Nicholas, remains a place of pilgrimage for both Catholics and Orthodox Christians. Beyond the city’s lively markets and theatres, Puglia’s rural charm beckons.

South of Bari, the land begins to rise, dotted with dry-stone walls and prickly pear. Here lies Putignano, a town known not only for its labyrinthine alleys and limestone dwellings, but for Italy’s oldest and most spirited carnival.

Located in the heart of P utignano on an extensive 40-acre estate, C asina Cinquepozzi is an exclusive-use 18th century manor house de signed by Neapolitan-Nigerian duo, Thelma West and Stefano Liotta, its design born from their love of the region.

Opened just a few months ago, following a meticulous t wo-year restoration to restore the soul of the property and combine its storied heritage with contemporary hospitality elements, the house’s ten bedrooms are spread across three levels, each thoughtfully curated with a blend of antique furnishings and modern comforts, punctuated by preserved original features, like stone troughs and vaulted ceilings.

Out side, the grounds flourish with regenerative agriculture – olive groves, vineyards, and orchards – providing fresh produce for the in-house chef to craft seasonal dishes. And a hammam, outdoor tub, and a 17-metre pool have been added. And throughout the estate, artistic touches abound, from Nigerian artworks to local artisan pieces, reflecting the owners’ diverse heritage and commitment to cultural authenticity.

www. casinacinquepozzi.com

SIX SENSES KYOTO

THE CULTURAL HEART OF JAPAN, KYOTO IS A CITY WHERE history and tradition come alive at every turn. Known for its breathtaking temples, tranquil gardens, and iconic geisha culture, it offers a more serene alternative to Japan’s bustling metropolises. The city’s rich heritage, preserved through its ancient wooden machiya houses, centuries-old shrines, and the ever-changing beauty of its seasons, evokes a timeless charm that draws visitors seeking both cultural immersion and natural beauty.

Nestled at the foot of mountains, Higashiyama is one of Kyoto’s most picturesque and historically significant neighbourhoods. Here, the narrow streets are lined with traditional tea houses, artisan shops, and ancient temples, including the famous Kiyomizu-dera, whose wooden stage offers panoramic views of the city. Higashiyama has long been the spiritual and cultural epicentre of Kyoto, and its well-preserved architecture and tranquil atmosphere transport visitors to another era. Located just east of the city centre, it provides a perfect balance of Kyoto’s past and present.

Surrounded by heritage shrines and grand palaces in Higashiyama district, Six Senses Kyoto opened just over a year ago, its design inspired by the golden age of the Heian period, infusing elements of traditional arts and folklore with a playful twist, to craft a distinctive and refined hospitality experience. 81 rooms and suites either look across the peaceful inner courtyard, neighbouring temple gardens, or the tiled rooftops of the city beyond. Interiors reference Japanese craftsmanship through Raku-yaki tiles, reinterpreted motifs and tactile materials, creating an atmosphere that is both meditative and inviting.

Sekki, the main restaurant, shifts its menu according to Japan’s 24 microseasons, while Nine Tails cocktail bar distils local ingredients into spirited creations.

T he spa adopts a holistic approach, drawing on traditional healing practices and low-intervention technology, with treatments including Watsu therapy featuring in custom-designed wellness programmes, as well as moments of quiet, such as garden walks and tea meditations.

Six Senses Kyoto deftly distils centuries of Japanese tradition into a thoughtfully modern retreat, where heritage design, intuitive hospitality, and urban stillness exist in finely tuned, and deeply restorative, balance.

www. sixsenses.com/en

FAIRMONT BREAKERS LONG BEACH

FRAMED BY THE PACIFIC AND SOFTENED BY SEA BREEZES , this coastal enclave has long stood apart from California’s more conventional beach cities. Once a naval stronghold and shipping hub, Long Beach evolved over the 20th century into a vibrant urban centre with a distinctive cultural edge. Its shoreline curves beside a vast port – one of the busiest in the Western Hemisphere – yet beyond the cranes and cargo lies a world of galleries, waterfront paths and Art Deco landmarks.

T he RMS Queen Mary, permanently moored in the harbour, evokes a bygone era of transatlantic glamour, while the Aquarium of the Pacific highlights the region’s marine biodiversity with impressive scope. Neighbourhoods range from Spanish Revival bungalows shaded by jacarandas to mid-century modernist gems tucked behind palms. Cuisine reflects the city’s diversity – Cambodian, Mexican and Japanese flavours mingle in markets, food halls, and discreet family-run kitchens. A strong creative undercurrent runs through its studios, festivals and murals, drawing artists and musicians seeking space and inspiration. As the sun dips westward and lights begin to shimmer along the waterfront, the energy coalesces in the center of the city, downtown Long Beach, where history, innovation and community converge.

In the city’s downtown heart, one of California’s most storied properties has recently been reborn after a multi-million-dollar transformation, blending historic grandeur with contemporary luxury to offer guests a blend of timeless charm and modern sophistication.

Originally opened in 1926, The Breakers reopened in late 2024 under the Fairmont flag, now home to 185 guestrooms and suites styled in soft blues, warm golds and natural textures, with views stretching across the Pacific and the city skyline.

Dining options are bold and varied. The Sky Room, reimagined with Art Deco flair, brings coastal flavours to a cinematic setting, while Nettuno offers refined Italian dishes beside curved windows. At the rooftop Halo bar, cocktails are paired with open-air views, and La Sala in the lobby evokes the atmosphere of a 1930s garden lounge.

Guests can unwind at the rooftop pool, visit the expansive spa, or explore preserved details from the original building, from hand-carved ceilings to a vintage brass mailbox that still welcomes postcards.

Fairmont Breakers Long Beach redefines a Southern California landmark as an urbane seaside sanctuary, where thoughtful design, layered history and a fresh cultural rhythm now share equal footing. www.fairmont-breakers.com

IL SAN CORRADO DI NOTO

RISING FROM THE CROSSROADS OF EUROPE AND AFRICA , the sun-drenched island of Sicily blends ancient legacies with elemental beauty, its identity shaped over millennia by Greek philosophers, Roman governors, Arab scholars, and Norman kings, each leaving indelible marks on its language, architecture and cuisine.

Volcanic soil around Mount Etna yields abundant harvests, from robust red wines to fragrant citrus, while coastal inlets shelter fishing villages where daily life remains intimately tied to the sea.

In Palermo, mosaicked chapels sit steps away from vibrant markets scented with aniseed and charcoal, while inland landscapes are dotted with ancient temples, olive groves and the skeletal remains of amphitheatres. Baroque exuberance rubs shoulders with medieval austerity, and folkloric tradition pulses through seasonal festivals and quiet rituals alike. No other Italian region offers such contrast – raw yet refined, layered yet immediate.

Further south-east, the land begins to ripple gently, its towns hewn from limestone and softened by time. Here lies Val di Noto, a baroque masterpiece reimagined after the great earthquake of 1693, where palazzi, cathedrals and sweeping piazzas bask in the golden hues of the Sicilian sun.

An ancient, transformed masseria, Italian island escapes don’t get much better than Il San Corrado di Noto, which is the first boutique resort of its kind in the region. Once the summer residence of Prince Nicolaci, this 18th-century estate has been meticulously reimagined into a tranquil retreat, blending noble heritage with understated elegance.

Set amidst 40 acres of citrus groves and olive trees, the resort comprises 26 suites and eight villas, each adorned with travertine marble, handcrafted furnishings, and private terraces. A yoga pavilion, gym, spa, and two expansive swimming pools – including a striking 100-metre lap pool – offer ample on-site opportunities for leisure and relaxation.

Culinar y offerings include the fine-dining Principe di Belludia, which showcases seasonal Sicilian flavours. And the more relaxed Casa Pasta, which serves traditional dishes in a convivial setting.

Il San Corrado di Noto harmoniously fuses aristocratic charm with contemporary comfort, providing an idyllic haven where Sicily’s rich history and natural beauty converge in refined tranquillity.

https:// ilsancorradodinoto.com/en

Celebrating 160 Years Of Timeless Elegance

On 10th June, The Langham, London proudly celebrates its 160th anniversary with a series of elegant tributes.

To mark the occasion, the hotel will unveil specially curated experiences that honour its Victorian heritage for all to enjoy.

Highlights include a celebratory Afternoon Tea at Palm Court, paying homage to our history and showcasing the best of seasonal ingredients. Exclusive dining offerings will feature limited-edition items such as bespoke celebratory cocktails at Artesian and a decadent lobster roll at The Wigmore.

For the ultimate indulgence, The Langham will launch a once-in-a-lifetime anniversary package — a luxurious journey from London to New York. This includes a stay in a signature suite, private dining, private jet travel, and exclusive experiences at The Langham, New York.

Join us this summer to celebrate 160 years of Europe’s original grand hotel!

1c Portland Place, Regent Street, London W1B 1JA

Phone: (44) 020 7636 1000

Email: tllon.info@langhamhotels.com langhamhotels.com/London

ONE&ONLY AESTHESIS

CRADLED BETWEEN MOUNTAINS AND SEA , THE ANCIENT capital of Athens has witnessed the rise and fall of empires, its enduring spirit carved into marble and echoed in myth. Once the cradle of democracy and a beacon of classical thought, the city gave birth to philosophy, theatre and architecture that continue to shape the Western world. The Parthenon still presides over the Acropolis, luminous against the Attic sky, while layers of Byzantine, Ottoman and neoclassical influence ripple through its tangled streets.

In the shadow of antiquity, contemporary life pulses – markets spill into alleyways, rooftop bars hum at twilight, and galleries animate oncederelict spaces with avant-garde expression.

Southward, where urban sprawl yields to sunlight and salty air, a change in rhythm unfolds. Glyfada, a seaside district once favoured by American diplomats and Greek shipping dynasties, now draws a cosmopolitan crowd with its blend of coastal ease and polished indulgence. Palm-lined boulevards host designer boutiques and discreet cocktail bars, while its marina shimmers with moored yachts and the soft clinking of glasses.

Tucked into a pine-fringed stretch of Glyfada, One&Only Aesthesis is a serene sanctuary that brings refined and understated glamour to Greece's shores. Spread across a 21-hectare estate laced with protected forest, this contemporary low-rise coastal retreat embraces the sensibilities of an ultra-luxury resort while offering a genuinely laid-back atmosphere in which to truly unwind.

Guests arrive to a setting of sculpted serenity, where beautiful mid-century modernist architecture sits in effortless dialogue with nature. Aesthetically pleasing throughout, the 95 stylishly appointed bungalows and villas, many with private pools, are designed with tactile elegance – think travertine, Greek marble, warm timbers, and touchyfeely fabrics – creating soothing spaces that frame the surrounding gardens and sea and blue skies above.

A private beach of pale sand arcs gently along turquoise waters, while a Guerlain Spa offers a comprehensive approach to wellbeing, blending advanced diagnostics with detoxifying therapies rooted in scientific tradition. The adjoining Technogym-equipped fitness centre ensures that physical renewal is as prioritised as spiritual ease.

Dining at One&Only Aesthesis is both inventive and indulgent: from Michelin-lauded flavours at Ora by Ettore Botrini to the vibrant energy of Manko, a stylish cocktail bar, restaurant and beach club where Peruvian cuisine meets Riviera flair. During the summer season, pop-up bars and sushi counters add to the many drinking and dining options, every venue reflecting a dedication to fresh seasonal ingredients, culinary finesse, and a strong sense of place.

Exuding barefoot sophistication and intuitive service, One&Only Aesthesis has redefined the Athenian Riviera contemporary resort experience, to appeal to a new generation of discerning globetrotters who value quality and good design above all else.

www. oneandonlyresorts.com/aesthesis

A THREE-NIGHT STAY IN A SANCTUARY KING ROOM - DESIGNED TO FOSTER A CALMING CONNECTION WITH THE OUTDOORS - COMPLETE WITH DAILY BREAKFASTS AND ONE DINNER FOR TWO

spend three nights with mother nature at mandai rainforest resort by banyan

tree

PRIZE DRAW

NESTLED WITHIN A 126-HECTARE

wildlife and nature reserve in northern Singapore, on the edge of the island nation’s bustling cityscape, recently opened Mandai Rainforest Resort by Banyan Tree connects guests to a world of zoological wonders via an array of meaningful experiences in the lush embrace of Mother Nature.

Drawing from Banyan Group’s legacy of honouring the essence of each location, the 338-room resort blends seamlessly with its natural surroundings, offering rooms nestled in lush greenery or overlooking the Upper Seletar

Reservoir, with biophilic design at the heart of the property's architecture.

Celebrating nature’s rich flora, fauna, and biodiversity, the many layers of the surrounding rainforest are reflected in the resort's interiors, its emerald canopies and winding trails set against a serene soundtrack of exotic birdsong and rustling leaves. And guest rooms, suites, and a cluster of unique treehouses provide the perfect escape from metropolitan life, together with a luxurious opportunity to reconnect with nature in inimitable style. www. banyantree.com

ISTANBUL TURKEY

ISTANBUL

WHERE CONTINENTS CONVERSE BENEATH MINARETS AND DOMES

ISTANBUL

FROM VAST IMPERIAL MOSQUES TO THE WHIRLING AROMAS OF SPICE BAZAARS,  NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU  EXPLORES A CITY OF CONTRASTS AND CONFLUENCE, WHERE BYZANTINE GRANDEUR AND OTTOMAN MAJESTY MEET MODERN DYNAMISM AT THE WATER’S EDGE

The 15 July Martyrs Bridge, linking Europe with Asia

hagia sophia remains the city’s defining landmark

Hagia Sophia

ACITY UNIQUELY STRADDLING TWO continents, Istanbul stands as a testament to the confluence of civilisations, cultures, and epochs. Its rich tapestry weaves together threads of antiquity and modernity, creating an urban landscape that captivates and enchants. Whether visiting for the first time or returning to explore further, traversing Istanbul’s streets is a journey into the past, where each corner reveals stories etched in stone and spirit. And despite the city’s immense scale, every visit, for me at least, offers fresh perspectives and new experiences.

A CHRONICLE OF CIVILISATIONS

The origins of Istanbul trace back to the ancient city of Byzantium, founded by Greek colonists in the 7th century BCE. Situated at the crossroads of continents and maritime routes, this fledgling city-state prospered under the auspices of geography and trade. In 330 CE, Emperor Constantine the Great reimagined it as Constantinople, the eastern capital of the Roman Empire. With this declaration, the city’s destiny was irrevocably transformed. From a coastal outpost, it became the epicentre of imperial ambition, crowned by soaring basilicas and public forums that signalled its new-found stature.

UNDER SUBSEQUENT BYZANTINE RULERS, Constantinople flourished as the beating heart of Eastern Christendom. Its treasures were manifold: shimmering mosaics, vast libraries, and sacred relics that drew pilgrims from across the world. Above all, it was the spiritual aura of the Hagia Sophia, constructed under Emperor Justinian I in the 6th century, that encapsulated the city’s sacred grandeur. Designed to awe, it did just that – its vast dome a nearmiraculous feat of engineering back then, that is still lifting the gaze, and the soul, heavenward.

THE CITY’S FATE CHANGED COURSE IN 1453, WHEN Sultan Mehmed II breached its formidable walls and claimed it for the Ottomans. With that conquest, Constantinople became Istanbul, the new capital of a rising Islamic empire. Yet this was no erasure of the past. Instead, the Ottomans wove their cultural and spiritual threads into the existing fabric, transforming churches into mosques, repurposing civic spaces, and constructing architectural masterpieces that stood in respectful dialogue with their Byzantine predecessors.

THE CONFLUENCE OF CONTINENTS

Istanbul’s singular geography – poised between Europe and Asia – has always defined its identity. The sinuous Bosphorus Strait, glinting beneath the Anatolian sun, is more than a natural boundary. It is a living artery, through which commerce, ideas, and people have flowed for millennia. Here, water and city intertwine. Ottoman palaces such as Dolmabahçe and Beylerbeyi grace its banks, their façades gazing wistfully toward their European neighbours. Ferries criss-cross the strait like clockwork, connecting the grandeur of Sultanahmet to the mellow rhythm of Kadıköy. On the Galata Bridge, fishermen cast their lines in silent meditation, while above them trams rattle past on their ceaseless routes. Along the waterfront, the scent of roasting corn mingles with sea salt, and conversations drift on the breeze in dozens of tongues. This perpetual interplay between continents has forged a city that is neither one nor the other, but a singular amalgam of both. It is not merely Istanbul’s geography that straddles the divide. It is its soul.

THE ZENITH OF IMPERIAL SPLENDOUR

Imperial Istanbul survives not in ruins, but in resplendence. Hagia Sophia remains the city’s defining landmark. Once a cathedral, then a mosque, later a museum, and now again a place of worship, it is both an emblem of the divine and a palimpsest of history. Stepping inside, one moves from grandeur into mystery. Light filters through high windows, illuminating Byzantine mosaics that gleam beside Islamic calligraphy. It is a space where epochs converse in hushed tones. https://muze.gen.tr/muze-detay/ayasofya

Today a UNESCO world heritage site, no visit to Istanbul is complete without visiting this great mosque. Skip the year-round ticket lines by pre-purchasing a MegaPass online, which covers all of city's top museums, including Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace, and Dolmabahçe Palace.

https://megapass.com/turkey/istanbul

NEARBY, THE SULTAN AHMED MOSQUE, KNOWN affectionately as the Blue Mosque, balances symmetry and

Dolmabah ç e Palace

Sultan Ahmed Mosque

ornament with poetic precision. Its six minarets rise like slender pens against the sky, while its cascading domes mirror the rhythm of the earth below. Inside, more than 20,000 İznik tiles create a dreamscape of blue and white arabesques, their patterns shifting subtly with each change of light.

TOPKAPI PALACE, PERCHED ATOP THE SERAGLIO

Point, is less a building than a city within a city. For centuries it was the seat of Ottoman power, and its pavilions, gardens, and audience halls echo with stories of intrigue and empire. The harem, once cloaked in secrecy, now offers a glimpse into the intimate lives of sultans and courtiers, while the Imperial Treasury dazzles with artefacts that bear witness to a world of opulence and ceremony.

METAMORPHOSIS INTO A MODERN METROPOLIS

The twilight of the Ottoman era ushered in an age of reinvention. When the Republic of Turkey was founded in 1923, political capital shifted to Ankara, but Istanbul retained its cultural magnetism. The ensuing decades saw the city grow in fits and starts – its historic districts hemmed in by unplanned sprawl, yet still resolute in spirit.

However, in recent years, Istanbul has emerged as a city reimagined. Glass towers rise beside Ottoman mansions, and the skyline now fuses the vertical ambition of the future with the domes and spires of the past. Creative quarters such as Karaköy and Bomonti brim with concept stores, micro-galleries and co-working cafés that reflect a youthful, cosmopolitan sensibility.

Sultan Ahmed Mosque

Topkapi Palace

Topkapi Palace

AMONG THE CITY’S MOST SIGNIFICANT transformations is the rebirth of the Istanbul Modern, Turkey’s first museum dedicated to contemporary art. Originally opened in 2004 and reborn in a striking new space in 2023, the museum now occupies a waterfront site in Karaköy. Designed by Renzo Piano, its architecture mirrors the fluidity of the Bosphorus: reflective, open, and fluid. The structure invites the sea inside and the art outside, creating a continuum between city and museum, tradition and experiment. www.istanbulmodern.org

A TAPESTRY OF ARCHITECTURAL STYLES

Architecture in Istanbul is a narrative without a single author. Genoese towers, Ottoman kiosks, Byzantine walls, and modernist interventions all coexist, often within a single vista.

The Galata Tower, once a medieval watchtower, later an observatory, and today a museum and viewpoint, still commands

sweeping vistas over the Golden Horn and the Marmara Sea. Its cylindrical silhouette has remained a constant as the city unfurled around it, bearing witness to centuries of upheaval and calm. https://muze.gen.tr/muze-detay/galatakulesi

ALONG THE BOSPHORUS, WOODEN WATERFRONT mansions from the 18th and 19th centuries, historically known as yali, dot the shoreline like pearls on a ribbon. Painted in soft pastels or rich ochres, these structures evoke a time when the Ottoman elite entertained foreign diplomats and philosophers under hand-painted ceilings, while boatmen ferried guests in gondola-like caiques. Yet modern additionshave too found their place in the city..

The Çamlıca Mosque, completed in 2019, is the largest in Turkey. Its design merges classical aesthetics with forward-looking infrastructure, accommodating over 60,000 worshippers and incorporating libraries, exhibition halls,

An original wooden yali waterfront mansion

The Çamlıca Mosque

Gallata Tower

Overlooking the vibrant skyline of Istanbul, Fairmont Quasar redefines luxury with elevated comfort and timeless elegance. Discover a refined escape with curated dining and effortless access to the city’s most exclusive experiences. fairmontquasaristanbul.com

The Taksim-Tunel tram on Istiklal Street

and landscaped gardens. It is a bold architectural gesture –simultaneously rooted in heritage and attuned to contemporary needs.

TUCKED INTO THE HEART OF LIVELY BEYOĞLU,

Soho House Istanbul occupies historic 19th-century Palazzo Corpi – a magnificent neoclassical mansion, which was once home to a Genoese merchant, and later the U.S. Consulate. Today, this impressive architectural gem – adorned with intricate frescoes and lavished with Carrara marble –is a swishy private members' club and boutique hotel, with guest rooms and suites styled in vintage elegance. The club's signature restaurant, Cecconi’s, serves classic, well-executed Italian fare in chic and relaxed surrounds. Over the weekend, the whole venue usually pulses with international DJ sets, making it one of the city’s most sought-after party addresses. www.sohohouseistanbul.com

BAZAARS: THE CITY’S BEATING HEART

Nowhere is the city’s pulse more tangible than in its marketplaces. The labyrinthine, vibrant, and enduring Grand Bazaar is one of the oldest covered markets in the world. Within its domed corridors, goldsmiths, leatherworkers, and carpet sellers carry forward skills passed down through generations.

a city uniquely straddling two continents, istanbul stands as a testament to the confluence of civilisations, cultures, and epochs

Grand Bazaar

tucked away behind istanbul's bustling bazaars, the rüstem pasha mosque enchants with its profusion of beautiful blue, iznik tiles

NEARBY, THE SPICE BAZAAR HUMS WITH A different energy. Here, the air is thick with the aroma of cinnamon and cumin, dried rose petals, and citrus peel. Vendors call out prices with theatrical flair, scooping spices into paper cones with polished ease. This is not simply commerce – it is tourist theatre, heritage, and ritual combined.

TUCKED AWAY BEHIND ISTANBUL'S BUSTLING bazaars, the Rüstem Pasha Mosque enchants with its profusion of beautiful blue, İznik tiles. Built atop a row of shops, it is easy to miss. Yet those who ascend its hidden stairwell are rewarded with an array of colour and light.

EVEN BEYOND THE BAZAARS, ISTANBUL’S STREETS are alive with trade: from the pop-up bookstalls under Galata Bridge to the fishmongers of Kumkapı, the city is a constellation of micro-economies, each rooted in community and a multiplicity of traditions. Armenian churches, Sephardic synagogues, and Mevlevi lodges all punctuate the cityscape, underscoring the cultural pluralism that has long defined the city. Each space, however small, adds a note to Istanbul’s polyphonic spiritual chorus.

R ü stem Paşa Mosque

Spice Bazaar

A CULINARY ODYSSEY

Food in Istanbul is more than sustenance – it is an expression of geography, history, and belonging. Its flavours draw from Anatolia, the Balkans, Persia, and the Levant, resulting in a cuisine that is as layered as the city itself.

FIND A UNPRETENTIOUS RESTAURANT, AWAY FROM the tourist areas, serving traditional Turkish fare. Begin with a meze spread: silky hummus, spicy ezme, grilled aubergine, and vine leaves stuffed with rice and herbs. Then perhaps order some lamb slow-cooked in earthenware, or seafood fresh from the Bosphorus. Sweetness arrives in the form of syrup-soaked baklava or lokum, their richness balanced by strong, aromatic tea.

STREET FOOD IS EQUALLY ESSENTIAL. SIMIT

vendors appear at dawn, their circular breads stacked in

towers. Midday brings kumpir – stuffed baked potatoes, laden with olives, pickles, and sauces. And on the waterfront, balık ekmek – grilled fish in crusty bread –offers the simplest of meals, made sublime by setting and tradition. And to drink: Turkish coffee, thick and intense, often served with a cube of rose-flavoured delight. Or perhaps rakı, the aniseed spirit that turns cloudy when diluted, best enjoyed with friends, slow conversation, and an endless table of small plates.

CULTURAL LANDMARKS AND CONTEMPORARY ART

Amidst the layers of antiquity, Istanbul’s modern art scene has found fertile ground, and across the city, independent galleries and art festivals are shaping Istanbul’s cultural calendar. From film screenings in open-air courtyards to performance art in converted hamams, the creative impulse is ever-present dynamic, evolving, and distinctly local.

among the city’s most significant transformations is the rebirth of the istanbul modern

Soho House Istanbul

Monkey Bar

IN ADDITION TO THE ISTANBUL MODERN, THE CITY is home to institutions like the Sakıp Sabancı Museum, Arter, and SALT Beyoğlu – each contributing to a conversation that spans East and West, tradition and provocation. https://saltonline.org

Arter, a dynamic contemporary art space in Dolapdere, offers immersive exhibitions and experimental programming. www.arter.org.tr

SALT, housed in a former bank, explores the intersections of art, politics, and urbanism, often through site-specific installations and archival research.

The Sakıp Sabancı Museum features a collection that spans Ottoman calligraphy to contemporary photography, with rotating international exhibitions. https://sakipsabancimuzesi.org

PERCHED ATOP THE ISTANBUL FOUNDATION for Culture and Arts, high above Şişhane’s cultural quarter,

Monkey Bar is a sublime sundowner spot with wraparound views of the Golden Horn and historic peninsula. Its open terrace and cocktail list make it ideal for a lingering evening drink, especially on Sundays when locals and visitors gather to close the weekend in style. https://monkeyistanbul.com

IN ISTANBUL, CONTRASTS DO NOT COLLIDE – THEY converge. This is a city composed not of contradictions, but of layers: of empires and ideologies, faiths and innovations. It is neither East nor West, old nor new, but something wholly its own – a place that resists definition and rewards attention. To walk its streets is to participate in an unbroken dialogue between centuries. To feast in its restaurants, haggle in its markets, linger in its cafés, or to gaze upon its skyline at dusk, is to feel the enduring pulse of a city that has never ceased to dream.

FAIRMONT QUASAR ISTANBUL

ELEVATED ABOVE THE BUSTLING

Mecidiyeköy district, Fairmont Quasar Istanbul commands an unrivalled position, with many of its 209 rooms and suites affording sweeping, unobstructed views of the Bosphorus Strait. Floor-to-ceiling windows in most categories open onto one of the city’s most captivating vistas – an ever-changing canvas of freighters, ferries and the shifting hues of the waterway that divides two continents. In a city renowned for its skyline, these rooms offer a rare, privileged perspective.

DESIGN THROUGHOUT THE HOTEL STRIKES a harmonious chord between clean-lined international style and subtle references to Anatolian craftsmanship. Public spaces are anchored by curated artworks and slick finishes, while guest rooms favour a muted palette and layered textures that feel both polished and welcoming.

DINING IS VARIED, WITH SEVERAL VENUES spread across the property, punctuated by

Aila, the hotel's signature restaurant, which celebrates regional culinary traditions through a contemporary lens – think smoky grills, fragrant spices, and seasonal produce presented with understated flair. Meanwhile Ukiyo serves refined Asian fare in a rooftop setting that captures the city lights as dusk descends.

WELLNESS ALWAYS PLAYS AN INTEGRAL ROLE in a Fairmont stay experience. The expansive spa includes a Turkish hammam, indoor pool, and rooftop infinity pool with panoramic city views. Treatments fuse local rituals with global customs,

making this a sanctuary not just for rest, but for recalibration. And the hotel's gym is one of the best equipped in the city.

POSITIONED ABOVE ONE OF ISTANBUL’S MAIN arteries, Fairmont Quasar Istanbul also offers notably swift access to both of the city’s airports, which is a logistical advantage rarely enjoyed in such a densely woven metropolis. Yet despite its proximity to traffic, the hotel feels cocooned from the thrum below, its lofty perch offering tranquility and perspective in equal measure.

https://fairmontquasaristanbul.com

THE PENINSULA ISTANBUL

OCCUPYING A PRIME STRETCH OF the Bosphorus waterfront in Karaköy, The Peninsula Istanbul is a triumph of architectural sensitivity and modern restraint that has redefined hospitality luxury in the city. Located within the revitalised Galataport precinct, and framed by the shimmering waters of the Golden Horn and the minaret-punctuated skyline beyond, the hotel sits at the very crossroads of Istanbul’s imperial past and cosmopolitan present, placing guests within easy reach of museums, mosques, and bazaars, while remaining a tranquil refuge from the city’s exuberant pace.

SPREAD ACROSS FOUR INTERCONNECTED buildings – three of which are sensitively restored heritage structures from the early 20th century – the property blends period charm with contemporary finesse. Corridors of honed Marmara marble link the wings, together with a sprawling subterranean spa and leisure complex, while oversized windows in many of the plush 177 rooms and suites open to sublime, unbroken vistas of the Bosphorus Strait. It is a view that's impossible not to linger over: ferries cutting silver paths across the water, the domes of Sultanahmet glinting in the distance, and the morning light shifting delicately across the surface.

FROM THE MOMENT THE CULTURED TRAVELLER crosses the threshold, to the attentive 24-hour support enjoyed via PenChat (the brand's WhatsApp-driven digital concierge service), every interaction is polished and swift. Room service and transportation alike are ordered via PenChat, without needing to pick-up a phone. In-room technology is easy to use and functions flawlessly. Master light switches work perfectly. Sockets and wireless chargers are hidden in bedside drawers. And clothes and shoes placed in the valet closet by the door of every room, are returned tout de suite by the incredibly efficient butler team.

THE HOTEL'S ROOFTOP RESTAURANT, Gallada, curated by celebrated Turkish chef Fatih Tutak, is a destination in its own right. With a menu inspired by the culinary exchanges of the Silk Road, the dining

experience balances precision with warmth, and the setting – overlooking the Bosphorus from a softly lit terrace – is as memorable as the cuisine. Be sure to precede dinner with an expertly crafted cocktail at Topside, one floor above, which is almost certainly one of the best bars in the city.

A HOTEL THAT ELEVATES BOTH PLACE AND moment, which it does with quiet, effortless grace, in a city abundant with five-star addresses, the calibre of service offered by The Peninsula Istanbul remains peerless. www.peninsula.com/en/istanbul

SKY BRIEF

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER ROUNDS-UP THE LATEST AIR TRAVEL NEWS FROM AROUND THE GLOBE

AFTER YEARS OF PLANNING AND POLITICAL RUMBLINGS, Cambodia’s new international gateway is on course to open in mid-2025, most likely IN July. The USD1.5 billion Techo Takhmao International Airport, located some 20 kilometres south of Phnom Penh, will eventually handle up to 50 million passengers a year and replace the capital’s ageing airport.

The airport's scale is vast: occupying more than 2,600 hectares of land, with two 4,000-metre runways, space for 50 aircraft at once, and a terminal inspired by Khmer architecture but engineered for modern demands. Passengers awaiting flights will even have the opportunity to visit a traditional Khmer wooden house, commonly known as a "rich man’s house".

Designed by Foster + Partners, the airport reflects Cambodia’s regional ambitions, with the aim of becoming a hub for Southeast Asia. It will

welcome widebody aircraft from Europe, the Middle East, and East Asia, putting Phnom Penh back on the map for long-haul travellers. And once fully operational, Techo will debut biometric immigration processing and streamlined baggage systems.

BOOM'S DEMONSTRATOR ACHIEVES SUPERSONIC FLIGHT

PROVIDING THE FOUNDATION FOR BUILDING THE world’s fastest airliner, Overture, of which more than 130 aircraft have already been ordered, earlier this year, Boom Supersonic's XB-1 demonstrator broke the sound barrier in historic Mojave airspace.

The world’s first independently developed supersonic jet, and the first civil supersonic jet made in America, the XB-1 was flown by Boom's chief test pilot Tristan Brandenburg, and reached an altitude of 35,290 feet before

accelerating to Mach 1.122 (652 KTAS or 750 mph) – breaking the sound barrier for the first time. Historically, supersonic aircraft have been the work of nation states, developed by militaries and governments.

Incorporating many of the key features found on Overture, such as carbon fiber composites, digital stability augmentation, and an augmented reality vision system for landing visibility, XB-1’s supersonic flight marks the first time an independently developed jet has broken the sound barrier. https://boomsupersonic.com

VIRGIN GALACTIC OPENS SPACEPORT LOUNGE

WHILE THE REST OF THE WORLD GETS EXCITED about new routes, Virgin Galactic is offering something altogether different: Earth-to-orbit travel. Earlier this year, the company opened its newly expanded Spaceport America facility in New Mexico to paying customers, and unveiled an exclusive new lounge to match.

Co-designed by British architect Norman Foster, the lounge combines spaceship prep with luxury hospitality. Think champagne briefings, biometric check-in, custom-tailored flight suits, and private meditation pods. There’s even a centrifuge simulator for those wishes to test their G-force limits. More than a lounge, this is a marketing frontier, where luxury and spaceflight intersect.

Meaning “Mother Earth” in Greek, the first floor is named Gaia, and comprises lounges and cafés where astronauts can chat and relax before rocketing into space.

The second level, dubbed Cirrus, contains operational spaces, including mission control, a working area for pilots, and a center for pre-flight briefings. www.virgingalactic.com

SCOOTPLUS BRIDGES THE GAP BETWEEN ECO AND BIZ

SCOOT, THE CHEEKY LOW-COST OFFSHOOT OF Singapore Airlines, has been shaking up budget travel since 2012. Operating out of Singapore Changi, it now zips to over 60 destinations across Asia, Australia, and Europe with a fleet of more than 50 aircraft, including fuel-efficient Boeing 787 Dreamliners.

At the front of its Dreamliners, you’ll find ScootPlus: a surprisingly polished product that proves “budget” doesn’t have to mean basic. With spacious 22-inch wide leather seats and 38 inches of pitch,

it’s all elbow room and easy reclining. And the 2-3-2 layout adds a touch of exclusivity without tipping into corporate sterility.

ScootPlus fares include 30kg of checked baggage, 15kg in the cabin, a decent hot meal with a drink, 30MB of Wi-Fi (enough for emails and light browsing), in-seat power for all your kit, and priority boarding to skip the scrum.

True, there’s no lie-flat bed or lounge access, but at the fares offered, ScootPlus is ideal for savvy flyers who want a smoother ride without forking out a fortune, and hits the sweet spot between cattle class and the big-ticket business cabins. www.flyscoot.com/en

ANA DEBUTS SELF-BOARDING PREMIUM LOUNGE

IN A SLEEK CORNER OF

HANEDA’S TERMINAL 2, JAPAN’S

All Nippon Airways (ANA) has quietly launched one of 2025’s most cutting-edge passenger experiences – a completely selfservice premium lounge. Dubbed ‘The Boarding Lounge of the Future’, the concept melds automation with Japanese omotenashi (hospitality).

Guests enter via facial recognition gates – no boarding pass required. Inside, robotic bartenders prepare highball cocktails with exacting precision, while AI concierges offer dining tips, delay updates, and connecting gate info in seven languages. Hot towels are dispensed by soft-touch robotic arms. And instead of overhead announcements, passengers receive personal boarding pings via wristband or phone. The design, by Tokyo studio Nendo, founded by Oki Sato (pictured), leans toward minimalist luxury: earth-toned walls, tatami-style nooks, and acoustic zones tailored for either calm or focus. This is not just a lounge — it’s a prototype for a futuristic, fully contactless travel corridor. www.ana.co.jp

ScootPlus

Oki Sato

A SINGULAR ROUTE WITH GLOBAL AMBITIONS

ONE OF THIS YEAR’S most strategic route launches belongs to Kenya Airways, which will inaugurate thriceweekly flights from London Gatwick to Nairobi on 2 July 2025. It marks the first time a major African airline will operate a scheduled service from Gatwick, giving the UK’s second-largest airport a new gateway to East Africa.

Using Boeing 787 Dreamliner aircraft, more than a network filler, the service enhances flexibility for leisure and business travellers alike, offering a direct route that bypasses Heathrow’s congestion; is timed to dovetail with connections throughout Africa; tactically provides Kenya Airways with access to the affluent catchment areas of southern England; and encourages travellers to explore Nairobi as a stopover city, rather than just a transit point. www.kenya-airways.com/en

CHANGI’S CROWN PLAZA VOTED WORLD'S BEST

SINGAPORE’S CROWNE PLAZA CHANGI AIRPORT HAS ONCE AGAIN BEEN

crowned the World’s Best Airport Hotel at the 2025 Skytrax Awards — a title it’s held for nine consecutive years. More than just a terminal-side convenience, it represents the gold standard in transit luxury. Tucked into the terminal complex with direct access to Terminal 3, it provides travellers with a seamless transition from gate to bed, with design key to everything.

The hotel’s vertical gardens and open walkways form a calming contrast to the rigours of international travel. Rooms are spacious, soundproofed and tech-forward, with floor-to-ceiling windows offering views of aircraft movements or a tranquil courtyard oasis. But it’s the service that sets Crowne Plaza apart: lightning-fast check-ins, wake-up calls timed to gate changes, and a concierge that truly understands flight logistics. www.ihg.com/crowneplaza

LUFTHANSA

BRINGS FINE

DINING TO 38,000 FEET

HIGH-ALTITUDE DINING HAS JUST RECEIVED AN haute upgrade. This spring, Lufthansa debuted an inflight tasting menu in First Class, co-created with legendary Munich chef Jan Hartwig (pictured), a culinary master with three Michelin stars to his name.

The seasonal menu – available exclusively on select long-haul flights to Tokyo, São Paulo, and New York – features dishes like Atlantic turbot with caviar sabayon, saddle of venison with spruce tips, and a saffron-

poached pear dessert served under a cloche. Even more impressive is the onboard presentation. Meals are plated course-by-course on Rosenthal porcelain with silverware designed by Seibel, accompanied by pairings from sommelier-selected German vineyards.

Lufthansa’s aim isn’t just gastronomic glory but narrative: telling the story of contemporary German cuisine at altitude. In the race to restore glamour to long-haul flying, Lufthansa may have just served its trump card.

www.lufthansa.com

UNITED’S UNIFORMS GET A COMPLETE MAKEOVER

A PROJECT SEVEN YEARS IN THE MAKING, UNITED Airlines has begun introducing its new uniforms, with the fresh look shaped by feedback from thousands of staff, and spearheaded by acclaimed American designer Tracy Reese, known for her tailored silhouettes and commitment to inclusive, wearable fashion.

Gone are generic blues and uninspiring cuts. In their place: sleek charcoal suiting, polished wrap dresses, tailored vests, and crisp shirting in modern, genderneutral forms. Fabrics have been upgraded to include moisture-wicking and temperatureregulating fibres. Smart details abound – from

discreet zip compartments to antimicrobial linings and some pieces include RFID chips for tracking wear and tear.

Rather than leaning on nostalgia or nationalism, United has opted for contemporary practicality.

Reese described the brief as “creating clothes that move and breathe with the body, but still honour the profession.” The result is a confident, considered refresh that reflects the broader shift in aviation: less formality, more personality; less ceremony, and more substance. www.united.com/en

Jan Hartwig

one of the most atmospheric stays in laos

THE SISAVANGVONG SUITE

suite envy

A SHORT DRIVE FROM THE HEART OF THE ANCIENT UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE TOWN, NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU SPREADS OUT IN THE PREMIER SUITE AT ROSEWOOD LUANG PRABANG, WHERE FRENCH COLONIAL ELEGANCE AND LAOTIAN EXPRESSION MEET BESIDE THE NAM DONG RIVER

➤ ROSEWOOD LUANG PRABANG, LAOS

THERE ARE FEW HOTELS IN Southeast Asia that so completely capture the spirit of their surroundings as Rosewood Luang Prabang. Tucked into a serene forested valley just outside the ancient UNESCO World Heritage town, the property unfolds along the stone-strewn Nam Dong River, which originates in the Phou Khoun mountains to the southwest of Luang Prabang. Villas and tents are gently concealed by bamboo groves, palms, and the occasional flash of frangipani. It’s a place where nature leads, rather than yields, and where every path – winding, shaded, and softly lit – feels like part of a greater narrative.

This narrative is the work of Bill Bensley, the Bangkokbased designer whose visionary approach to landscape and interiors has redefined luxury in this part of the world. For Luang Prabang, he drew on the city’s layered cultural identity – its French colonial past, its Laotian monastic traditions, its quiet mysticism – to create a resort that feels lived-in, storied, and entirely place-specific. Buildings appear to have evolved rather than been built. Artefacts are placed not for effect but for meaning. There is nothing generic here and everything is part of the conversation.

The resort’s layout meanders gently uphill from the riverbank, beginning with the imposing, open-sided Great House, or Le Grand Maison, where guests breakfast, plan their days' adventures, sip cocktails infront of a roaring fire, and feast with friends. From there, villas and tented suites are scattered across surrounding slopes, hidden amongst the foliage. And along the riverbank, sympathetically-designed houses contain distinctive accommodations.

SET WITHIN HERITAGE-STYLED MAISON NAMH Dong and officially room number 7, The Sisavangvong Suite is the hotel’s largest accommodation and occupies the most prized position on the estate – poised on the water’s edge with a broad private terrace that gazes up and down the river. Whilst conveniently within a few minutes’ walk of the Great House opposite, the suite’s setting is peaceful, framed by lush vegetation and dappled sunlight, and the soundtrack is a combination of birdsong and water slipping over stone. It’s the perfect, calming base from which to explore Laos’ former royal capital, just five kilometres away.

RULER OF THE KINGDOM OF LUANG PRABANG and subsequently Laos until 1959, the suite is inspired by King Sisavang Vong, who was known as something of a playboy. At one time he reputedly had 15 wives, including two half-sisters and a niece, and fathered some 50 children. Tragically, fourteen of his children drowned

in the Mekong River in a boating accident. A lifelong supporter of French rule in Laos, King Sisavang Vong refused to cooperate with Lao nationalists in 1945 and was deposed when the Lao Issara (Free Laos) party declared independence. However, when the French regained control in 1946, he was reinstated as king, becoming the first monarch to rule over all of what is now modern-day Laos.

HONOURING ITS ROYAL NAMESAKE WHILE

offering one of the most atmospheric stays in all of Laos, The Sisavangvong Suite comprises two large and immersive, richly-decorated residence-like rooms, that nod to the country’s royal past while embracing the layered design language of modern Laos. Brimming with a sense of story throughout, the suite feels at once hidden yet important. It isn’t grand in the classical sense – there’s no sweeping double-height entrance or chandeliered parlour – but it doesn’t need to be. Its quiet confidence comes instead from a rich palette of textures, materials, and storytelling details that together form one of Southeast Asia’s most original hotel interiors.

THE SUITE OPENS INTO A GENEROUS LIVING and dining space: an atmospheric room layered with dark woods, patterned textiles, and statement furniture pieces. At one end, a long table invites guests to dine indoors on cooler evenings. At the other end, a large daybed is positioned directly before a set of doors that open onto the riverside verandah. The daybed is where I spread out and relax after a day of sightseeing, tea in hand. All around me are splendid gold painted walls depicting day-to-day life in Lao, inspired by Wat Xieng Thong, one of Luang Prabang's largest temples and a national symbol of great historical importance. On the floor beside the daybed, a large, carved wooden statue wearing an ornate costume, similar to those I see at temple entrances to ward off evil, looks over me as I snooze. Decorative with detailing and flourishes everywhere, the space feels curated but not contrived and is intensely homely. A bijou guest cloakroom near the suite’s entrance is a thoughtful touch.

STEP INTO THE DUAL-ASPECT BEDROOM and the effect is immediate: a space that dares to be dramatic, wrapped in vibrant turquoise walls and lined in dark timber underfoot, its design is a contemporary homage to Laotian regality. A king-sized bed, low and linear in form, is dressed in the finest Egyptian cotton –soft, cool, and inviting. Upholstered seating and accent lighting give the room a cinematic glow, especially as the evening approaches. This isn’t the understated minimalism found in many high-end resorts. It’s bold,

expressive and fully confident in its identity. There’s a sense that everything here belongs – that each piece has been hand selected not simply for function, but for meaning and impact. I don’t just sleep in the bedroom –I reside in it.

AND THEN THERE IS THE SISAVANGVONG

Suite’s bathroom, which is unapologetically a showpiece – a maximalist celebration of form, craft, and ceremony. Striking black walls are stencilled in a traditional Lao gold leaf motif, often seen in Buddhist wat throughout Laos. The double vanity theatrically

stands upon a pair of red pedestals. The bath is lined with glossy black marble and is bedecked with ceremonial jars and candlesticks. The centrepiece, however, separating the toilet and walk-in shower, is an alcove at the end of the room: a dramatic table, circular and columned, set with sculptural vessels in black and silver. Above it hangs a totemic cascade of turned wooden pendants, some in matte black, others in red, their shapes inspired by Buddhist architecture and ritual objects. It’s an installation as much as a design feature – theatrical, reverent, and palpably calming.

ONE OF THE SUITE’S DEFINING QUALITIES is how deeply inhabitable it feels to me. I wish it weren't a space to dip into between activities, for it clearly invites lingering. Breakfast on the terrace. An afternoon stretch on the daybed, river in view. A long soak in the bath after returning from Luang Prabang’s winding lanes and golden wats.

AN OPULENT RIVERSIDE RESIDENCE WHERE design, history and mood come together in rare, resonant harmony, named after a King who was a unifying figure in Lao history, The Sisavangvong Suite carries its title with grace, and is a space that allows one to be still. To observe. And feel connected to the past but be supremely comfortable in the present.

A stay in The Sisavangvong Suite at Rosewood Luang Prabang starts from US$800 per night inclusive of breakfast and taxes. www.rosewoodluangprabang.com

DAWN GIBSON-FAWCETT EXPLORES EGYPT’S BREATHTAKING NEW CULTURAL LANDMARK, WHERE COLOSSAL STATUES, ANCIENT ARTEFACTS, AND MODERN ARCHITECTURE CONVERGE IN GRAND STYLE, JUST OUTSIDE CAIRO

inside cairo’s new grand egyptian museum

ENTERING EGYPT’S NEW archaeological wonder is an experience in itself. Crossing a vast forecourt, visitors are met by a striking pyramid-inspired façade crafted from alabaster, the creamy, translucent stone prized by the ancient Egyptians for temple construction, and associated with the cat-headed goddess Bast.

BEYOND THE THRESHOLD LIES THE GRAND Hall – a vast atrium so impressive it might have pleased the pharaohs themselves. Purpose-built to accommodate colossal monuments, the space spans Egypt’s epic 700,000-year story, from prehistory to the Greco-Roman period.

Commanding the hall is an 11-metre-high granite colossus of Ramesses II, also known as Ramesses the Great. This 3,200-year-old, 83-tonne statue was the first artefact installed in the museum, relocated from Ramesses Square in central Cairo. Set atop a platform within a shallow pool, the pharaoh’s serene, enigmatic gaze surveys his expansive new home,

his muscular form alluding to his reputation as a formidable warrior-king.

TO THE LEFT OF RAMESSES STANDS THE Grand Staircase, rising four lofty flights towards a magnificent view of the Pyramids of Giza. The museum’s architectural alignment is itself symbolic: its north and south walls correspond with the Great Pyramid of Khufu and the Pyramid of Menkaure, physically and thematically connecting the new museum with the last remaining wonder of the ancient world.

The staircase is lined with more than 60 statues, columns, temple doorways and sarcophagi, offering tantalising glimpses into the lives and beliefs of ancient civilisations. Among these, the beautifully carved head of Hathor stands out. The goddess of the sky, women, fertility and love is depicted with almond-shaped kohl-lined eyes, arched brows, and a hint of a smile. Perched on her head is a shrine crowned by a rearing cobra. The sculpture, dating from either the 30th Dynasty or the Ptolemaic Period (380–30 BCE), once topped a Hathor column in a long-lost Nile Delta temple.

Hanging Obelisk

THE WORLD’S LARGEST SINGLE-CIVILISATION MUSEUM

As its name suggests, the Grand Egyptian Museum is designed to inspire awe. The largest museum in the world dedicated to a single civilisation, it occupies nearly 500,000 square metres – about 70 football fields – just 2km from the Giza plateau.

The design emerged from one of the most significant architectural competitions ever held, won by Irish firm Heneghan Peng Architects. Their vision blends modern glass and metal with visual echoes of Egypt’s ancient grandeur. Built to house over 50,000 artefacts – including many never previously displayed – the museum is as much about breadth as it is about beauty.

THE MUSEUM'S ARRIVAL HAS BEEN

long anticipated. Construction began more than two decades ago, with delays caused by political upheaval, logistical challenges, funding complications, and the global pandemic. But from late 2022, signs of imminent opening began to emerge. Private events gave way to the public unveiling of the Grand Hall in February 2023, followed by access to the Grand Staircase and, in October 2024, the launch of the museum’s first galleries. A full public opening is now expected in July 2025, which will include the long-awaited Tutankhamun exhibition, and the display of one of Egypt’s most extraordinary artefacts – the Khufu ship.

TUTANKHAMUN AND THE ANCIENT SOLAR BARQUE

Since the 1922 discovery of his tomb by Howard Carter and the Earl of Carnarvon, Tutankhamun

King Ramesses ll

Grand Staircase

has captivated generations. Though his reign was brief, the extraordinary wealth of objects buried with him has proved invaluable in understanding the 18th Dynasty and Egyptian beliefs surrounding death and the afterlife.

GEM’S TUTANKHAMUN GALLERIES WILL exhibit around 5,000 artefacts, of which 2,000 have never been publicly shown. Highlights include the pharaoh’s famed gold funerary mask, his trio of elaborately decorated coffins – one of solid gold weighing over 110kg – as well as ceremonial chariots, gilded jewellery, inlaid furniture and an abundance of vessels and ritual objects. Each piece offers insight

into the world the boy-king was expected to inhabit in eternity.

EQUALLY CAPTIVATING IS THE KHUFU SHIP

Discovered in the 1950s in a sealed pit beside the Great Pyramid, this 4,500-year-old solar barque is the oldest intact ship in the world. Spanning 43 metres, it was painstakingly reassembled under the direction of Ahmed Youssef Moustafa using clues from tomb reliefs and traditional shipbuilding techniques. Though its precise purpose remains unclear, the vessel is thought to have served as a ceremonial craft for the sun god Ra, transporting the soul of the pharaoh across the heavens.

SOCIETY, KINGSHIP AND SPIRITUALITY

While the Tutankhamun treasures and Khufu’s barque may be the headline attractions, the museum’s twelve permanent galleries – which opened in October 2024 – offer a wealth of discoveries. Arranged around three thematic pillars – society, kingship, and spiritual beliefs – the exhibitions progress chronologically from prehistory to the end of the Greco-Roman period (332 BCE – 642 CE).

THE GALLERIES ARE EXPANSIVE AND filled with light, allowing space for thoughtful reflection. Artefacts are complemented by multimedia elements that bring ancient stories to life. While 90-minute guided tours in English and Arabic are available, self-guided exploration allows visitors to linger where curiosity leads.

ONE STRIKING ARTEFACT IS AN ALABASTER sarcophagus believed to be the resting place of Queen Hetepheres, mother of Khufu, discovered beside the Great Pyramid. Its luminous surface glows softly beneath the gallery lights. Nearby is a statue of King Djoser, builder of Egypt’s first pyramid at Saqqara around 2,700 BCE. Around him are just a few of the 40,000 vessels uncovered beneath that monument.

ELSEWHERE, A FIGURINE ARMY OF FIERCE Nubian archers stands ready for eternity. A multimedia installation addresses the enduring mystery of pyramid construction. Canopic jars – once used by embalmers to store the internal organs of the deceased – are another highlight. One particularly elegant set features lids shaped as human-headed protective deities.

AS THE GALLERIES UNFOLD, SO TOO DOES a vivid picture of ancient Egypt’s spiritual world and sophisticated society. Curators have risen to the challenge of arranging thousands of priceless objects in a way that both educates and captivates, satisfying our enduring fascination with this extraordinary civilisation.

THE MUSEUM’S UNIVERSAL APPEAL IS reflected in the diversity of visitors who pass through its halls – from chic European tourists to elegantly dressed locals. As the sun sets over Cairo and the desert wind begins to stir, many will no doubt be planning their next visit to this magnificent new monument to Egypt's fascinating history.

The GEM is a 30-minute drive from central Cairo. Before visiting, be sure to book a ticket on the official website. https://visit-gem.com/en/home

Statue of Queen Hatshepsut

Main Galleries

WARSAW

europe’s cultured capital of reinvention

WITH A NEW MODERN ART MUSEUM ANCHORING A CONTINUED WAVE OF CULTURAL MOMENTUM, JOE MORTIMER EXPLORES A HAPPENING CITY WHOSE FUTURE CONTINUES TO BE SHAPED BY BOLD IDEAS AND THE CREATIVE MINDS DRIVING THEM

CITY FOCUS

0N A SUNLIT AFTERNOON ALONG THE Vistula River, Warsaw exudes a quietly electrifying energy that belies its turbulent past. Couples glide by on bicycles and scooters, families stroll along the tree-lined promenades, and clusters of friends gather beside floating river bars moored like stage sets against the skyline. The Copernicus Science Centre rises from the riverside with architectural confidence,

while the playful murals of the Museum on the Vistula hint at a lighter, more expressive spirit – one that for much of the 20th century was suppressed by war, occupation and ideological rule.

THIS IS A CITY IN MOTION – CULTURALLY, architecturally, psychologically. The years since Poland joined the European Union have brought tangible change, but Warsaw’s evolution is deeper than infrastructure and GDP.

The transformation here is a kind of collective self-rediscovery, powered by a burgeoning generation of creators, designers and dreamers determined to carve out a modern Polish identity untethered from old definitions.

THE EFFECTS ARE MOST VISIBLE IN DISTRICTS LIKE Powiśle. Once a utilitarian, semi-industrial riverside strip, it has re-emerged as a fashionable and creative enclave. Glass-

and-steel apartment blocks reflect a skyline of old smokestacks and modernist towers. Below, former warehouses now host art studios, natural wine bars, and espresso counters. Bold street art covers the sides of buildings, expressing everything from absurdist humour to political critique. And even the pavements feel designed for interaction, with Chopin benches that play his compositions at the push of a button, and tiny libraries housed in former phone booths.

Copernicus Science Centre

FROM THE ROOFTOP GARDEN OF THE UNIVERSITY of Warsaw Library – a place of quiet reflection atop a cavernous modern reading hall – the view stretches eastwards to Praga. Long considered the city’s rougher sibling, this right-bank neighbourhood is perhaps Warsaw’s most potent metaphor for reinvention. Spared the bombings that flattened much of the city, Praga fell into decline during the communist era, its streets forgotten by planners and largely untouched by development. For decades, its decaying buildings and unpaved courtyards remained home to tight-knit working-class communities, Romani musicians, Catholic artisans and the last remnants of Warsaw’s once-vibrant Jewish community.

TODAY, PRAGA IS CHANGING, BUT SLOWLY, AND with a certain self-awareness. Ząbkowska Street – once

the heart of the district’s vodka production – now houses stylish restaurants and vintage stores beside traditional bakeries and neighbourhood shops. The old Koneser vodka factory has been reimagined as a cultural complex, complete with galleries, co-working spaces, and the Polish Vodka Museum. Around the corner, the Soho Factory continues to draw creative talent, with its post-industrial aesthetic, performance venues and experimental culinary concepts.

ACROSS THE RIVER IN WOLA, THE CHANGE IS noticeably more obvious. Formerly industrial and downtrodden, it has become Warsaw’s fastest-developing commercial district. Steel-framed skyscrapers and towering blocks now rise beside brick power stations and railway viaducts, creating an eclectic visual tapestry.

Downtown Warsaw

This is where Warsaw’s ambitions as a modern European capital feelmost visible. Yet despite the influx of foreign investment, Warsaw resists easy comparisons. Unlike other capitals that traded identity for globalism, this city remains grounded, even as it evolves.

A BRIEF HISTORY OF OPPRESSION

Warsaw’s renewal is not just about restoring old buildings, but about a deeper shift in values that began with the return to democracy in 1989. For the past 35 years, the city has been adapting to independence and quietly reclaiming its identity.

TO UNDERSTAND PRESENT-DAY WARSAW, ONE MUST glance back. The Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth once spanned much of Central Europe, but was partitioned in the late 18th century by Russia, Prussia and Austria, erasing Poland from the map until 1918. The interwar years brought

a golden age of cultural and economic resurgence — shortlived, as World War II brought fresh devastation.

THE 1944 WARSAW UPRISING WAS BRUTALLY crushed, and the Germans razed 85 percent of the city. After the war, Poland fell within the Soviet sphere, and for decades remained behind the Iron Curtain.

THE BREAKTHROUGH CAME IN 1989 WITH THE FALL of communism. EU membership in 2004 accelerated Warsaw’s transformation, ushering in a new era of optimism. While traces of the past remain, a younger generation is reshaping the capital with creativity and confidence, redefining what it means to be modern and Polish in a city that continues to evolve.

FAR FROM THE MADDING CROWD

Unlike other European capitals, you usually don’t have to battle

IMAGE: ŁUKASZ KOPEĆ ©️ CITY

with crowds of tourists in Warsaw. Major performances at the Grand Theatre and National Opera tend to sell out weeks in advance, and the city’s top restaurants are sometimes fully booked, but one can walk through the cobbled streets of the Old Town at any time of day and not feel overwhelmed by the volume of human traffic.

THE OLD TOWN IS WARSAW AT ITS FAIRY-TALE BEST.

A warren of narrow streets surrounding the charming Market Square, which was once the medieval heart of Warsaw, the 15th century buildings were rebuilt from scratch in the years following the war, using original materials salvaged from the rubble. Today, the rows of colourful townhouses surround the cobbled square, filled with ice cream parlours, souvenir shops and restaurants selling traditional Polish fare.

IT’S HARD TO RESIST THE RUSTIC CHARMS OF LOCAL dining in Warsaw. Most of the restaurants in the Old Town tout their homemade pierogi – the ubiquitous fried or steamed dumplings packed with sweet or savoury fillings – or bigos, a rich and hearty game stew, usually served in a hollowed-out loaf of rye bread. These traditional dishes are best washed down with a flagon of wheaty Polish beer or a glass or two of Polish vodka, served ideally at six to eight degrees centigrade, as per the collected wisdom of six centuries of vodka production.

Warsaw bartenders will proudly explain that vodka was first invented in Poland (a fact hotly contested by Russia) and that Poland is the world’s fourth largest vodka producer. For a connoisseur-like experience, treat yourself to a glass of two of aged potato vodka, or a good quality rye, such as silky smooth, medium bodied Chopin Rye Vodka.

THE OLD TOWN’S STREETS ARE HOME TO A TRIO OF churches: the unusual façade of St. John's Archcathedral

Old Town

Staszic Palace and Nicolas Copernicus Monument

Zamkowy Square

stands next to the strawberry and cream-coloured Shrine of Our Lady Grace Jesuit Church. And a block away, the baroque façade of St. Martin’s Church overlooks the fortified wall that encircles this ancient enclave.

WALK TOWARDS THE SOUTHERN END OF OLD TOWN and you’ll come to the salmon pink Royal Castle, which serves as a reminder of the halcyon days of the Polish Lithuanian Commonwealth, when the kings and queens of Poland ruled over a vast territory from this Warsaw residence. Painstakingly rebuilt between 1971 and 1984, the castle interiors contain royal chambers, elegant staterooms and reception halls, and a collection of art that includes pieces by Rembrandt and a 1685 Stradivarius violin. www.zamek-krolewski.pl/en

FROM CASTLE SQUARE, the so-called Royal Route extends for 11 kilometres through the city, past the glorious gardens of Łazienki Park and all the way down to Wilanów Palace and Park, the royals’ summer retreat and one of the most impressive buildings in Warsaw. Inside, visitors can explore the royal apartments, adorned with magnificent baroque art, elaborate wall tapestries, and beautiful moulded ceilings, and

Łazienki Palace

Pierogi

Holy Cross Church

Experience timeless elegance at Sofitel Warsaw Victoria, where French art de vivre meets Polish heritage in the heart of Warsaw. Indulge in refined luxury, exquisite cuisine at La Brasserie Moderne restaurant, and unparalleled views of Piłsudski Square for a stay beyond expectations.

WWW.SOFITEL-VICTORIA-WARSAW.COM

view the superb art collection of Stanisław Kostka Potock, which became Warsaw’s first art museum in 1805. Antique treasures from Egypt, European ceramics and hand-made furniture from the Orient fill the salons, and works of art from across Europe continue to dazzle visitors now as they would have in the early 19th century. https://wilanow-palac.pl/en

SOME OF THE CITY’S GRANDEST BUILDINGS LINE the upper end of the Royal Route. Take the time to wander past the Presidential Palace and the Basilica of the Holy Cross, where the heart of Fryderyk Chopin was laid to rest (his body

is buried in Paris). Then admire the grandeur of Staszic Palace, outside which stands a monument to another of Warsaw’s favourite sons, Nicolaus Copernicus, whose 16th century research revolutionised our understanding of the universe.

JUST A FEW BLOCKS AWAY STANDS THE PALACE of Culture and Science – a divisive communist relic gifted by Stalin in 1955. Once isolated, it’s now encircled by sleek towers and high-end real estate, a striking irony not lost on Varsovians. Many would prefer it demolished, yet it endures as an unmistakable symbol of the city. Locals joke

that the best view in Warsaw is from its 30th floor – the only place you can’t see the building. Love it or loathe it, the palace offers powerful context for the city’s post-communist transformation.

ART & IDENTITY

Relics of the Soviet era provoke mixed feelings in Warsaw. For some, they’re painful reminders; for others, they reflect a complex national identity. Many creatives saw beauty in the ways artists, filmmakers and designers carved out modes of expression during a time when individuality was suppressed.

POSTER ART, WHICH EMERGED IN THE LATE 19 TH century, became a powerful visual language during the interwar years and later under communism. Though coopted as a propaganda tool, it paradoxically enabled creative freedom – especially from the mid-1950s, when artists began designing film posters with striking originality. These works, born from state commissions, became a canvas for coded dissent and artistic ingenuity.

While the long-established Polish Poster Museum at Wilanów is currently closed for renovations, the National Museum houses an extensive collection, and a few dedicated

Royal Castle

Wilanow Palace Royal Route

IMAGE: TOMASZ BIDZIŃSKI

CITY OF WARSAW

galleries in the Old Town both exhibit and deal in vintage and contemporary Polish posters, most notably the Polish Poster Gallery at 28-30 Piwna Street. https://polishpostergallery.com

NEON ART, TOO, THRIVED UNDER SOCIALISM

Though designed to promote state enterprises, the signs were crafted with flair by top artists. Many were destroyed post-1989, but survivors have been restored and now glow again at the Neon Muzeum in the Soho Factory. www.neonmuzeum.org/english

OTHER ART FORMS ALSO EVOLVED UNDER restrictions. Kazimierz Urbański, founder of the Film Drawing Studio at Kraków’s Academy of Fine Arts,

created abstract, boundary-defying film collages in his own time, challenging state-imposed definitions of art. He is among many artists honoured at the Zachęta National Gallery of Art – a leading venue for Polish contemporary work, housed in a grand neo-Renaissance building on Piłsudski Square. Together with the Museum on the Vistula and the Ujazdowski Castle Centre for Contemporary Art, Zachęta forms part of Warsaw’s vital art ecosystem –a space where new generations explore memory, modernity, and national identity through bold creative expression.

https://zacheta.art.pl/en

THE CITY’S BOLDEST CULTURAL STATEMENT, however, is its newest: the Museum of Modern Art, which

Zachęta National Gallery of Art

Neon Muzeum

opened its striking new building in 2024. Located on Plac Defilad beside the Palace of Culture and Science, the museum is a minimalist white monolith designed by Thomas Phifer and Partners. Inside, its debut exhibitions include post-socialist photography, climate art, and multimedia meditations on memory. The museum signals Warsaw’s arrival as a serious capital of contemporary culture – not just for Poland, but for Europe at large. https://artmuseum.pl/en

A RIVER RUNS THROUGH IT

If the reconstructed left-bank of the Vistula is a celebration of the glory days of pre-Partition Poland, then the right bank is the stage on which the future of this city is being choreographed. Towards the end of the war, the working

class Praga neighbourhood was occupied by the Soviet army, so it was spared the wanton destruction rendered by the Nazis on the left bank of the river. Though the infrastructure remained largely intact, post-war investment focused mostly on rebuilding central Warsaw and Praga was largely forgotten. When director Roman Polanski sought a filming location to stand in for the Warsaw Ghetto for his film The Pianist, he found the depressing streets and crumbling tenement buildings of Praga to be the perfect setting.

BUT AS THE COST OF LIVING CREPT UP IN THE centre over the past 15 years, artists and creatives made the move across the river to take advantage of cheaper rent and studio space. Today, Warsaw’s upwardly mobile are

Museum of Modern Art in the foreground

also drifting across and snapping up flashy new apartments and office space, in a rapid gentrification process reminiscent of Brooklyn in New York City or London’s Shoreditch in the late 1990s and early 2000s.

THE WHOLE

LENGTH OF PRAGA’S

ZĄBKOWSKA

STREET

is now lined with restaurants and bars and the new Praga Museum of Warsaw is dedicated to the history of the area. Further along Ząbkowska is Koneser (‘Connoisseur’), a major regeneration project that has turned a collection of former distilleries into one of Warsaw’s hottest urban lifestyle enclaves that’s home to the Polish Vodka Museum and a handful of upscale bars and restaurants. Across the railway tracks,

Palace of Culture and Science

investment has also breathed new life into Soho Factory, a collection of warehouses that are now home to fine dining restaurants, galleries and creative event spaces, as well as the Neon Muzeum. New luxury real estate springing up in the area looks set to cement this as one of Warsaw’s hottest addresses.

WHICHEVER SIDE OF THE RIVER YOU LOOK, THE welfare of Warsaw’s population is front and centre of new development plans. Parks and green spaces cover a fifth of the city, which is criss-crossed with cycle lanes and a very efficient metro network which is constantly being added to and modernised. Information boards in Polish and English tell people what kind of flora and fauna to look out for in

public spaces, like the riverside Discovery Park. Locals are serenaded by free Chopin concerts in Łazienki Park every weekend during the summer, and the right-bank beaches are filled with healthy young Varsovians having picnics, tossing frisbees, or practicing yoga.

ON SUMMER EVENINGS, AS THE SUN SLIPS BEHIND the Palace of Culture and the lights begin to glow along the Vistula, Warsaw feels uniquely in balance: a city that remembers, yet refuses to be defined by memory. It is a place shaped by the gravity of its past and the promise of its future – quietly confident, subtly magnetic, and wholly original. https://go2warsaw.pl/en

celeste

A VOICE BORN FOR VINYL

IN THIS CANDID Q&A, THE BRITISH SINGER-SONGWRITER CHATS WITH ADRIAN GIBSON ABOUT PERSONAL LOSS, ARTISTIC GROWTH, TIMELESS STYLE, AND STAYING GROUNDED WHILE NAVIGATING GLOBAL RECOGNITION AND CREATIVE REINVENTION

RAISED ON THE chalky fringes of Brighton, after moving from California at the age of three, Celeste Epiphany Waite found her voice long before she set foot on a stage. The soulful tones of jazz greats such as Ella Fitzgerald and Billie Holiday reverberated through her childhood home, shaping a vocal style that would later captivate audiences around the world.

Penning her first song in her teens, Celeste began quietly uploading tracks to YouTube, where her singular sound caught the attention of industry insiders.

By 2017, she had released her debut EP The Milk & the Honey followed two years later by Lately drawing comparisons to Amy Winehouse and Adele for the depth and texture of her voice.

But it was the hauntingly beautiful 2019 single Strange that propelled her into the spotlight, earning her both the BBC Sound of 2020 title and the BRITs Rising Star award. Her debut album, Not Your Muse released in 2021, entered the UK Albums Chart at number one— an extraordinary achievement that cemented her as one of Britain’s most compelling new artists.

www.celesteofficial.com

You grew up in the village of Saltdean, on the outskirts of Brighton. How did that environment shape your upbringing?

It’s hard to say now, as it’s been so long since I lived there. I was born in Los Angeles, and although that was only a short stop, I think it’s shaped me in some way. There’s a sense of familiarity and expansiveness I feel when I’m there working on music. I can stay for quite a while before getting homesick for England, which feels like my true home. I also lived in Dagenham for a time, which I think gave me a bit of street smarts. I visited Saltdean recently and realised how special it is — small and quiet, very different from London. It feels safe. You’re close to the ocean, you can go quiet, lock yourself away, reground, and find roots to grow again.

You attended a performing arts school and received a scholarship at the age of ten. How did that shape your artistic development?

It gave me confidence — knowing someone outside my family saw something in my voice. It also taught me discipline early on, with strict routines we had to follow. But it made me realise I didn’t want to conform or be trained into sameness. I think I discovered my own sense of identity quite young. I was there from around nine or ten, and left just in time to finish primary school at the local state school. I’m grateful I had the opportunity. Some of my ballet muscle memory still comes into play when I perform.

You’ve mentioned early musical influences like Aretha Franklin, Billie Holiday and Ella Fitzgerald. How did their music inspire you?

They were some of the first voices I heard — along with Nina Simone. At the time, I didn’t know how to describe it, I just felt something in how they expressed themselves that resonated with me. Looking back, I think I was drawn to the rawness and truth in their performances and lyrics. Nina, in particular, has always stayed with me. I listened to her a lot while working on my music, especially Stars and Feelings live at Montreux, and also Good Bait and Just Like a Woman. Other more recent songwriting influences

include Anohni, especially I Hope There’s Someone and the pianist Oscar Levant, whose emotional temperament comes through so clearly in his playing.

You wrote your first song at 16, inspired by the loss of your father. It helped you process your grief and led to studio sessions. How difficult was it to turn such a personal experience into creative expression?

At the time, you don’t realise that grief is fuelling your creativity - you’re just expressing something that helps you carry the weight of it. My second album came from a similar place. I had to walk away from someone I loved deeply because of their struggles with addiction. That was heartbreaking. But again, the music became something I could bond with when I couldn’t be close to the person anymore. My first manager came into my life around that time - he looked after me from 18 to 23, and then introduced me to my current manager, who I’ve worked with ever since.

Can you tell us about the moment Spike Lee asked you to sign one of your records while you were performing at Laylow in Ladbroke Grove?

Thank you for reminding me! It might sound strange, but so much has happened since then, I’d almost forgotten. I really hope he still has it.

Elton John featured you on Apple Music’s Beats 1 in 2018, calling you “quite something else.” How did it feel to receive such praise from a music legend? I’ve always had immense respect for Elton John, so when someone like him recognises something in you, it really affirms that you’re moving in the right direction. It meant a lot to me at the time.

In 2020, you won the BRIT Award for Rising Star. What did that mean to you? Winning a BRIT is something you fantasise about as a teenager dreaming of being a singer. At the time, it felt like a career-defining moment. My view of awards has changed since - I don’t think winning always reflects artistic merit. It’s more an industry signal: “This is someone to watch.” It helps legitimise

you in the public eye. That said, I respect anyone who gets that kind of recognition. It’s incredibly hard to reach that level. But it’s also important to know your own worth as an artist - because I’ve also experienced what it’s like not to win, and that can be crushing if you don’t have a strong sense of self.

That same year, Hear My Voice was nominated for an Academy Award. What was it like to be part of that experience? It was a huge honour, especially as someone who doesn’t come from the film world. To be recognised in that space was surreal.

In 2021, you won an Ivor Novello Award for Best Song Musically and Lyrically. How important is songwriting to you? Lyrics are the most important part of the song for me, followed closely by emotional connection and melody. If the lyrics lack meaning or care, I can’t connect. I love unusual phrasing, poetic language, and artists who create their own rhythms or linguistic style. It doesn’t have to make perfect sense - if it’s imaginative and emotionally true, that’s enough.

lyrics are the most important part of the song for me, followed closely by emotional connection and melody

You’ve had a meteoric rise. How have you stayed grounded?

While it may have looked sudden from the outside, I’d been writing and recording since I was 18. I’m 30 now, and I still feel I have a new peak to reach. There’s so much more I want to do.

You’re often compared to Amy Winehouse and Adele. How do you feel about that?

I appreciate those comparisons because they’re women at the top of their game. But I also wish people referenced the artists who inspired all of us. Amy often spoke about Billie Holiday and Donny Hathaway. Adele mentioned Roberta

Flack and Etta James. For me, Esther Phillips and Labi Siffre have been big influences. Some people even say I sound like Karen Dalton these days. Those voices shouldn’t be forgotten in the conversation.

Your style is striking — visually and musically. Where do you draw inspiration from?

The olden days, mostly. And more recently, early Alexander McQueen and John Galliano.

Your name, Celeste, means ‘heavenly.’ What’s your idea of heaven?

I’m not sure - perhaps I’ll find out if I

make it there! But I do believe that the spirit transitions to another phase. I imagine it moves through time like an orb - evolving in purpose, intelligence, and health. Human life is a stage that prepares us for that next step.

This Is Who I Am was chosen as the theme for Sky Atlantic’s The Day of the Jackal . How did it feel to have your music set the tone for such a major series?

I’d had that song for a while, so it meant a lot that it would finally be heard, and in such a widely watched show. It gave me a boost at just the right time, and reminded me there’s still respect out there for what I do.

You recently made your acting debut in Steve McQueen’s Blitz. What was it like being on set?

It was one of the most memorable days of my life. I was going through a heavy depression at the time, but the experience was deeply uplifting. Seeing Steve in action — how he directed, how he moved through the space — was incredibly inspiring. It reminded me how important it is to create a productive environment when making music too.

Do you see yourself taking on more acting roles?

I’d love to. I even have an idea of a part I’d like to play… if someone has the script, maybe it’ll find me.

What are you listening to right now?

A friend recently played me a Funkadelic track I hadn’t heard before – I Call My Baby Pussycat I really like it.

You live in London. What do you love most about the city?

Right now, it’s the pace, and the way it carries you through the day and helps

you get things done. I also love how, just by walking around, you bump into people you know. There’s something warm in that.

Your favourite hotel in the world? I do have a favourite… but it’ll stay a secret. That’s exactly why I love it — it’s private, and no one ever notices I’m there!

The last book you read? I’m currently reading the autobiography of a British actor from the 1930s who later served in the war. He’s actually the grandfather of an ex-boyfriend. I found the book and was fascinated – there’s something special about meeting someone through their own words.

What are four things you always pack in your hand luggage?

Lip balm, camera, notebook, and spectacles.

Celeste will be performing in Rotterdam this summer at The North Sea Jazz Festival alongside Diana Ross, Mary J. Blige, Norah Jones and more. www.northseajazz.com

some of my ballet muscle memory still comes into play when I perform

SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI

HANOI, VIETNAM

the vietnamese capital's grande dame

IN THE HEART OF HANOI’S FRENCH QUARTER, THE CULTURED TRAVELLER VISITS A HISTORIC HOTEL THAT HAS STOOD AS A SILENT WITNESS TO THE CITY’S EVOLVING NARRATIVE, EMBODYING ITS RICH CULTURAL TAPESTRY AND RESILIENCE

THERE ARE HOTELS THAT

provide comfort, and there are those that tell stories. In the heart of Hanoi’s French Quarter, The Metropole belongs unequivocally to the latter. It is a living testament to the city’s tumultuous past and refined cultural identity, standing as a silent witness to revolutions, wars, and a renaissance of Vietnamese heritage.

The Metropole has been many things: a sanctuary, a salon for the world’s elite, a shelter in times of conflict, and now, a masterpiece of hospitality that effortlessly bridges its colonial grandeur with the demands of the modern age.

A SETTING OF ELEGANCE AND INTRIGUE

On the tree-lined boulevards of the charismatic Vietnamese capital, where echoes of Indochina’s colonial past still resonate in faded facades and wrought-iron balconies, the Metropole occupies a rather rarefied space. Just moments from Hoan Kiem Lake, it finds itself at the confluence of oldworld sophistication and the city’s relentless energy. Outside its doors, the hum of motorbikes weaves through the labyrinthine streets, past ancient temples and vibrant markets, bringing a sense of modern chaos to an area steeped in history.

The hotel’s location, though evidently at the very heart of Hanoi’s bustling life, is something of a sanctuary from the noise, offering a distinct atmosphere of quiet dignity. As I step inside, the exterior clamour recedes into a world that seems untouched by time. And shuttered windows and polished floors reveal a history that stretches back more than a century, filled with both grandeur and struggle.

THE BIRTH OF AN ICON

The Metropole’s origins trace back to 1901, a period when Hanoi stood at the center of French Indochina. It was during these early years that André Ducamp and Gustave-Émile Dumoutier, two French entrepreneurs, embarked on a project that would forever change the city’s hospitality landscape. The pair’s ambition was simple but audacious: to bring the elegance of European luxury to Southeast Asia.

They succeeded spectacularly. The hotel, which embodied the Belle Époque style, offered a vision of Parisian sophistication in a city at the heart of an empire. Featuring grand arcades, high ceilings, and opulent chandeliers that refracted light across marble floors, it was a space that radiated refinement. It immediately became one of the most prestigious establishments in Hanoi, attracting diplomats,

colonial administrators, and intellectuals who sought refuge in its elegant salons.

In its early years, the Metropole was more than a hotel; it was a microcosm of colonial Hanoi, where the world’s most influential figures could exchange ideas, shape policy, and be at the receiving end of the best service in town. It became the social hub of the French Quarter, its rooms and halls filled with a quiet sense of privilege. Yet, it also offered a glimpse of the more complex story of Vietnam under French rule, where beauty and affluence existed alongside the tensions of occupation.

GLAMOUR AND INTRIGUE IN THE GOLDEN YEARS

By the 1920s and 1930s, the Metropole had firmly established itself as the nucleus of Hanoi’s social scene. The hotel’s elegant salons were the backdrop for soirées attended by the elite of colonial society: diplomats, traders, artists, and writers. These gatherings were not just social affairs but also intellectual exchanges, where ideas and philosophies were debated over fine wines and the strains of a live orchestra.

This was the age of the Metropole’s glamour, where the hotel played host to the cultural and political movers of the time. Renowned figures from the world of literature, film, and politics graced its halls. Somerset Maugham, a frequent visitor, found much of his inspiration in the Metropole, while Noël Coward and Charlie Chaplin passed through during their travels. In 1936, Chaplin and his wife, Paulette Goddard, chose the hotel as the setting for their honeymoon, further cementing its status as an iconic location.

However, the golden years were soon overshadowed by the growing tensions of a changing world. Political unrest in the region, coupled with the backdrop of the approaching Second World War, foreshadowed the challenges that lay ahead. Yet, the Metropole, always resilient, would soon be faced with the ultimate test.

WAR, SHADOWS, AND SURVIVAL

The onset of the Second World War marked a pivotal chapter in the Metropole’s history. In 1940, the hotel was commandeered by the Japanese forces as part of their occupation of French Indochina. For several years, the building that had once been a symbol of French luxury became a military headquarters, stripped of its elegance and repurposed for the harsh realities of war.

In 1954, after the end of colonial rule, the Metropole continued to serve as an important

fixture in the city. However, it would soon find itself at the heart of a more intense and perilous chapter. During the Vietnam War, the hotel once again played a key role in the life of Hanoi, but this time as a shelter from bombs rather than a refuge from colonial power.

Hanoi, now the capital of North Vietnam, was subjected to intense bombing campaigns by American forces. Despite the destruction that rained down on the city, The Metropole stood firm, never once closing its doors. The hotel became a sanctuary for foreign journalists, diplomats, and anti-war activists, all of whom sought shelter within its walls during the air raids. Among its most famous guests was actress Jane Fonda, whose controversial visit to Hanoi in 1972 added to the hotel’s complex history during these tumultuous years.

A secret bomb shelter beneath The Metropole, once a hidden and essential feature, provided protection for those inside, including American folk songstress Joan Baez, who composed her song, Where Are You Now, My Son?, during an air raid one night, while staying as a guest.

This subterranean refuge remained unknown for decades, until it was rediscovered during hotel renovations in 2011. The shelter, now carefully preserved as a part of the storied building's history, is a stark reminder of the hotel’s survival and resilience amid war, and remains an evocative

contrast to the more refined spaces of its surfacelevel luxury.

THE REINVENTION OF A LEGEND

With the conclusion of the Vietnam War and the restoration of peace, The Metropole, like much of Hanoi, faced the monumental task of rebuilding and reimagining itself. The years following the war saw rapid changes, both in the country and at the hospitality landscape. As Vietnam opened itself to the world and embarked on a period of economic reform, the hotel was positioned to reclaim its place as Hanoi’s leading luxury property.

In the early 1990s, a careful repair and renewal project began, one that would preserve the hotel’s colonial charm while integrating modern amenities and sensibilities. This revival was not merely cosmetic; it was a thoughtful reimagining of The Metropole’s role in the city’s evolving

Heritage Wing

Heritage Wing Guest Room

Angelina Bar

La Terrasse

HOSPITALITY ICON

SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI

narrative, and the work ensured that the hotel’s architectural heritage remained intact for generations to come. The result was the birth of the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi – one of the Sofitel Legend collection – a prestigious designation reserved for just six hotels worldwide of extraordinary historical and cultural significance.

In December 2023, the hotel's iconic Heritage Wing emerged from a sensitive 21-month refurbishment, seamlessly blending timeless elegance with contemporary sophistication. Overseen by French designer Isabelle Chatel de Brancion, the project paid homage to the hotel’s colonial grandeur while subtly infusing modern refinements. Gleaming wooden floors, handcrafted furnishings, and delicately restored period details whisper stories of the past, now deftly complemented by state-of-the-art amenities. Not least, the lighting, inspired by early 20th-century Parisian salons, casts a warm glow over rooms and suites that have hosted countless literary legends, presidents, and royalty.

A LEGACY WOVEN INTO HANOI’S SOUL

Today, thanks to its meticulous modernisation, warm service, and attention to detail, the hotel's Heritage Wing invites guests to step back in time, without forgoing the luxuries of the present. The Cultured Traveller wakes up in a room where poets once dreamed, passes through courtyards where revolutionaries plotted, treads corridors once walked by presidents, and sips cocktails where diplomats brokered peace.

An elegant reminder that the world’s most exceptional hotels are not merely luxury lodgings, but places where history, culture, and memory intertwine, for more than a century, this Hanoi landmark has stood at the intersection of past and present, resilience and refinement. And its walls do not merely contain a hotel; they enclose a narrative of grandeur, struggle, and reinvention – one that continues to unfold with every passing year – ensuring that The Metropole remains a place where the stories of the past meet the vibrant pulse of the present.

www. sofitel-legend-metropole-hanoi.com

IN CONVERSATION WITH

dominic skinner

In the vibrant realm of beauty, few British figures command as much respect and admiration as Dominic Skinner. Serving as the UK Director of Makeup Artistry for MAC Cosmetics, Skinner has collaborated with illustrious designers such as Alexander McQueen and Vivienne Westwood, showcasing his exceptional talent and innovative approach. Beyond the runway, he has become a familiar face on television as a judge on BBC Three’s acclaimed series, Glow Up: Britain’s Next Make-Up Star His insightful critiques and encouraging demeanour have endeared him to both contestants and viewers alike. With over two decades in the industry, Skinner’s journey reflects a relentless pursuit of creativity and excellence. His recent foray into authorship with Glowography further cements his status as a multifaceted artist, continually pushing the boundaries of makeup artistry. In conversation with The Cultured Traveller, Skinner opens up about inspiration, identity, and the transformative power of beauty. www. dominicmua.com

Reflecting on your formative years, what initially drew you to the art of make-up, and were there specific moments or influences that ignited your passion?

I remember watching Blade Runner for the first time and not knowing what was going on at all. But I vividly remember the scene in which Daryl Hannah sprays black make-up over her eyes, clearly recall thinking how cool she looked, and desperately wanted to re-create the same look on anyone who would sit in-front of me for long enough!

Having attended art school with an interest in photography, how did you navigate the shift from traditional art forms to make-up artistry, and what parallels do you draw between these disciplines?

Although I loved all art forms and tried my hand at anything I could, it was photography which I was passionate about not least due to its instantaneousness. I experimented with make-up to distort features, add textures, and enhance visuals. So, while I fell into make-up by chance, there are parallels between the two. Not

least, photography and make-up both seek to capture and enhance the character or the subject, and this is my approach when it comes to make-up.

How has your 21-year journey with MAC evolved, and what have been some pivotal moments during your tenure thus far?

I have worked my way up from working part-time in a store to my current position as director of artistry for the UK and Ireland. I’ve had so many incredible opportunities and pinch me moments, including working with Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen, Jean-

Glow Up judges Dominic Skinner and Val Garland with host Leomie Anderson

Paul Gautier and Jeremy Scott. I have body painted in Singapore; presented a master class to over 1,000 people in São Paulo, and my work been shown in a gallery. I’ve travelled the world and met the most interesting people. I count myself very lucky and I never take anything for granted.

Your Instagram has been labelled ‘a must to follow.’ How do you curate content that resonates with your audience, and what impact has social media had on your professional trajectory?

I don’t "curate" my content at all. I ust show things that I would want to see myself. I feel like the audience can smell anything that is not authentic will lose interest. It’s so important to just be yourself and my social media presence has really helped my career. Being one of the early adopters of Instagram meant that I was able to carve out a platform for myself before lots of other people did the same. And being comfortable sharing my work a nd talking to camera has helped my work with TV. Instagram was essentially my training ground.

What qualities do you believe are essential for success in this industry?

To make it in this industry takes courage to share yourself and show what you can do. It also takes passion, dedication, and tenacity. And a realisation that there is always something new to learn.

Please share a particularly memorable fashion week back-stage experience?

The first time I met Vivienne Westwood and I didn’t know what to do, so I just curtsied. She chuckled, I blushed, it was sweet.

When approaching a new project, what is your creative process for developing a make-up concept?

When I start a new project, I always ask the question, "Why?" What is the point of the make up? What is it that we, as a collective, want to say? And how is the make-up going to enhance the narrative?

Over the years, beauty trends have continually evolved. How do you stay ahead of these changes, and what role do you believe make-up artists play in shaping them?

The wonderful thing about beauty trends is that you can never really be sure what is coming next. I believe that there is a zeitgeist that affects all art and culture. So, as a make-up artist, I just have to do what I feel is right at the time. Most often my peers are saying similar things, which is where a trend is born.

Make-up has always helped define a social conversation. It’s an art form for people to express how they feel about what is going on around them. People should never turn their noses up at the beauty industry, because it often says what many people fear to speak out loud.

IN CONVERSATION WITH DOMINIC SKINNER

Frequent travel is integral to your profession. What strategies do you employ to maintain creativity and well-being amidst such a demanding schedule? Many a hotel bathroom sink I have ruined from washing make-up brushes or mixing products! Every time I travel, I always stick by one rule, which is to never have a meal in the hotel. For me, it is important to go out to eat and experience life in the destination I am in.

As a Glow Up judge, what do you look for in contestants, and how do you balance

critique with encouragement to foster their growth?

The attribute I look most for is the ability to listen. They’ve already proven their creativity by getting on the show. My job is to help nurture and develop their talent. If they can hear my feedback, and understand that it isn’t a personal attack, then they grow, develop, and do things that they would never have dreamt of.

Your book Glowography introduces a fresh perspective on make-up artistry. What inspired it?

Glowography came from being asked, by many young people, how I got to where I am. I believe it's my creative thinking. So, I set out to create a book that would help anyone stuck in a rut, using fun exercises to get readers' brains thinking more creatively. What’s wonderful is that the book is equally of interest to a make-up artist, a beginner, or someone who uses make-up and is bored of wearing the same old look.

Your distinctive curlicue moustache has become something of a trademark. How does personal style play a role in establishing a brand as a make-up artist? I think it’s important to have a trademark or a personal style as a make-up artist, because the competition can be fierce and there are a lot of us! My moustache started as a bit of fun. However, I soon realised that I was being remembered for my moustache by models and photographers, so it has stayed.

What guidance would you offer to those aspiring to enter the make-up industry, particularly in navigating its competitive landscape?

The one thing you must make sure you do, when starting out in a make-up career, is enjoy it. It really is the best job in the world. You’re playing with make-up, painting faces, and working collaboratively with other creatives on a single image. What’s not to love?!

Looking ahead, are there any uncharted territories or projects within the realm of beauty and make-up that you are eager to explore?

Every day is different for a make-up artist and I love not really knowing what’s around the corner. Sometimes I don’t know what I’m doing day-to-day. Other times, I’m working on a project for a few months, that changes last minute. If I'm honest, I don’t know what is coming next. But what I do know is that I love nothing more than jumping in the deep end with a big smile on my face, ready to take on whatever is coming.

IMAGE: LEO HOLDEN

IMAGE: LINDA SHAKESBY

TOKYO MEETS KOWLOON BENEATH

THE WORLD'S TALLEST BUILDING, AT A NEW RESTAURANT IN DUBAI THAT DEFTLY BALANCES PRECISION AND THEATRE. THE CULTURED TRAVELLER TAKES AFTERNOON TEA IN THE STORIED SURROUNDS OF FORTNUM & MASON IN LONDON; AND BRIAN BERGEY TRACES THE THAI CAPITAL’S CULINARY EVOLUTION, SPANNING SMOKY STREET FOOD STALLS TO MICHELIN-STARRED TASTING MENUS

TANG DUBAI

➤ DUBAI, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES

THE DIAMOND JUBILEE TEA SALON

➤ LONDON, UNITED KINGDOM

BANGKOK'S FOOD SCENE

➤ THAILAND

Lobster Stir-Fry, TANG Dubai, United Arab Emirates

NEWCOMER

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU DINES AT TANG DUBAI, WHERE TOKYO MEETS KOWLOON BENEATH THE WORLD'S TALLEST BUILDING, AND FINDS A RESTAURANT THAT DEFTLY BALANCES PRECISION AND THEATRE

Salmon Tartare

NEWCOMER

TANG DUBAI

➤ DUBAI, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES

IN DUBAI, A CITY that soars on spectacle and thrives on reinvention, dining has long been elevated beyond the plate. Here, the restaurant is a stage, the table a pulpit, and the chef a conductor of sensory theatrics. Michelin stars glitter across the skyline from the palmfringed sands of Atlantis The Royal to the limestone simplicity of DIFC. Artful plates arrive via French fine dining, modern Indian feasts, progressive Persian, and now, more than ever, elegant expressions of East Asia. The upper echelons of the city’s dining scene are no longer satisfied with mere luxury; they demand precision, poise, and a certain cinematic gloss.

AMONG THE GENRES TO FLOURISH, Japanese cuisine – along with its pan-Asian cousins – has emerged as a particular darling of Dubai’s discerning elite. Its virtues align perfectly with the local aesthetic: exacting technique, minimalist presentation, and a reverence for ingredients. So when news broke that South Africa’s most fashionable Asian restaurant was to open on Emirati soil, it felt less like a surprise than an inevitability.

Gyoza

TANG’S STORY BEGAN NOT IN Kyoto or Kowloon, but in Johannesburg. Launched in May 2021 on the stylish expanse of Nelson Mandela Square, TANG Sandton was the vision of Nicky van der Walt, a South African entrepreneur known for his ventures across fashion, nightlife, and luxury hospitality. His idea was clear from the outset: to bottle the allure of contemporary Japanese izakayas and mix it with the enduring glamour of Cantonese classics – all filtered through an African lens of texture, energy, and theatrical detail. TANG Sandton became an instant hit, attracting both gourmands and glitterati alike.

THE SECOND ACT ARRIVED swiftly. In December 2022, TANG opened at Cape Town’s V&A Waterfront, commanding views of the Atlantic Ocean

and Table Mountain. With it came a bolder design, a deeper cellar, and a reputation that reached far beyond South Africa’s borders. TANG had evolved into more than a restaurant— it was a lifestyle brand with global ambitions. For van der Walt, Dubai was the logical next move: an international capital of luxury with a clientele that appreciates both precision and pageantry. And so, in late December 2024, TANG Dubai opened its doors in a position of singular distinction: within the Palace Downtown, at the foot of the Burj Khalifa, with front-row views of the Dubai Fountains' choreographed theatrics. Even by Dubai standards, the setting is majestic. And at 1,500 square metres, TANG Dubai is nothing short of sprawling, offering 395 seats across interior dining rooms, bar spaces, and an expansive terrace that glows in the

DESIGNED BY TRISTAN DU

Plessis, a celebrated South African interior architect, the restaurant is slick and luxurious yet inviting and comfortable. Rich chocolate and tobacco tones dominate the palette, softened by natural stone and atmospheric lighting. There’s a tension between sharpness and softness, masculinity and sensuality, that gives the space depth. A walk-in wine cellar glints under ambient light, while the marble waterfall entrance offers a theatrical prelude to the experience within. The terrace, meanwhile, is a triumph of scale and serenity, fusing the tropical soul of the original TANGs with the skyline-driven drama of Downtown Dubai.

twilight of the tallest building on the planet.

Peking Duck

Imperial Sushi Platter

TANG DUBAI’S MENU HONOURS its roots while elevating its ambition. It spans both the precision of Japanese culinary art and the layered intensity of Cantonese classics. Think silky yellowtail sashimi spiked with yuzu, lacquered Peking duck carved tableside, and buttery Wagyu beef seared over robatayaki flames. Dishes arrive with composure and a touch of flamboyance, with the menu’s restraint being its main virtue: every element feeling measured, curated, and built around the integrity of the ingredients used.

AS WE TAKE OUR SEATS ON the water’s edge, facing the Dubai Fountains, in the shadow of the towering Burj Khalifa upon which a stunning light-show is being projected, a multicourse tasting extravaganza ensues, beginning with Salmon Tartare and Sea Bass Satay, the latter grilled to a whisper of char, its tender flesh coated in a subtly sweet glaze, underpinned by a mellow peanut warmth and the faintest prickle of spice. A plate of Black Cod and Prawn Gyoza unites richness and restraint in perfect tandem, the golden skin of each dumpling barely blistered, giving way to a juicy centre of misokissed cod and sweet prawn. A dish of lightly battered Ebi Tempura is crisp and perfectly fried.

THROUGHOUT THE MEAL, LIGHT spices dance across the palate, never too bold, allowing a range of flavours to unfurl gradually. Meanwhile the service is sharp, intuitive, and refreshingly warm. There’s none of the frosty hauteur one occasionally encounters in high-end Dubai dining, nor the overly rehearsed hospitality of some of the city’s established, big name restaurants. Staff seem to move with the rhythm of the evening, offering insight without intrusion. Drinks are poured at the perfect moment; questions about provenance or preparation are met with genuine knowledge, not memorised lines. The music, a steady stream of upbeat sounds, energises the restaurant without ever competing with our conversation.

IN A CITY THAT DEMANDS newness at every turn, TANG Dubai manages to feel both fresh and assured. It brings with it the credibility of a proven concept, but also the clarity of a brand that knows its voice. At once contemporary and timeless, precise and playful, it is not merely another import but a restaurant that earns its place. And its unique location, in the shadow of the world’s tallest building, married with exquisite food, first-class service, and a soundtrack of uplifting house music, makes it stand out in the city's highly competitive upscale dining scene. TANG Dubai will surely become not just a new favourite – but a new classic.

https://dxb.tanghospitality.com

We end the night by the bar, right beside the DJ.

Pineapple Creme Brûlée

A QUINTESSENTIALLY BRITISH TRADITION DATING BACK TO THE 1840S, THE CULTURED TRAVELLER TEAM FOLLOWS IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF ROYALTY AND TAKES AFTERNOON TEA IN LONDON'S MOST FAMOUS LOCATION

CLASSIC

THE DIAMOND JUBILEE TEA SALON

➤ LONDON, UK

ON PICCADILLY, JUST across from the Royal Academy and a short stroll from Green Park, Fortnum & Mason rises like a handsome relic of Georgian London. And as we alight the lift on the fourth floor, the reception feels genteelly apart from the city outside. The Diamond Jubilee Tea Salon doesn’t try to dazzle; instead, it draws us in with its soft palette, its unhurried pace, and the gentle clink of silver on china.

FORTNUM’S, OF COURSE, HAS long been in the business of codifying British taste. Since 1707, the grocer has supplied preserves to palaces, shipped hampers to battlefields, and stocked larders from Balmoral to Borneo. Its fourth floor, however, is something else. Not simply a restaurant, nor a salon in the modern sense, it’s a space built for one act only: the serving of afternoon tea with formality, but never fuss.

THE CURRENT SALON DATES TO 2012, its unveiling part of the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee celebrations. It was opened by Her Late Majesty Queen

Elizabeth II alongside the Duchess of Cornwall and the then Duchess of Cambridge. But while the name is relatively recent, the tradition here goes back decades. Afternoon tea was served on this floor in the interwar years, and royalty have often passed through: Queen Victoria shopped Fortnum’s, Edward VII granted the store its first Royal Warrant, and Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother was a regular patron. Though the salon never advertises who sips what, over the years, it’s believed that statesmen and sovereigns alike have been quietly accommodated beneath its chandeliers.

STILL,

THE

DIAMOND JUBILEE

Tea Salon is not a museum. There’s no velvet rope and curtsying is not required. Tourists and Londoners alike take tea beside discreet hostesses pouring with the precision of maître d’s. Staff are watchful but not overbearing. They know when to guide and when to disappear. And the tea itself – always served loose-leaf, in pots – is only part of the draw.

SINCE THE APPOINTMENT OF Roger Pizey as Executive Head of Pastry, Fortnum’s approach to pâtisserie has undergone a subtle recalibration. A former protégé of Albert Roux and

Marco Pierre White, Pizey is not one for trend-driven confections. His work is rooted in structure, grounded in flavour, and informed by long craft rather than short flair.

WE TAKE OUR SEATS AT A ROUND table and begin the afternoon's proceedings with springtime Delphinium cocktails, made with Darjeeling-infused Fortnum's Amalthea Gin and honey sweetened vermouth, and topped with an orange foam. Subtly sweet, floral and refreshing, the cocktails are the perfect prelude for what's to follow.

SOON THE CLASSIC THREE-TIERED stands arrive – savouries below, scones mid-tier, cakes up top. But beneath the familiar architecture, things appear to have shifted a little. Finger sandwiches are cut with geometric rigour: wafer-thin white bread cradles Cotswold Legbar egg, and smoked trout hailing from Kames Bay on the southern coast of the Isle of Cumbrae. And the cucumber sandwiches are delicately accented by lemon and mint. Everything feels more exacting, no doubt thanks to Pizey.

THE SCONES – MORE THAN 3,000 of which are baked daily – are warm and

The Diamond Jubilee Tea Salon

TASTE & SIP CLASSIC

THE DIAMOND JUBILEE TEA SALON

crisp-edged, with a yielding crumb and a centre that just barely clings to itself. Fortnum’s famous strawberry preserve and zesty orange curd, alongside Somerset clotted cream, are all served generously, with an elegant nonchalance that belies the attention behind the scenes. But it’s the pastries that signal Pizey’s hand most clearly.

Favouring restraint over spectacle, his Rose Éclairs are light and fluffy with a moreish rose petal cream. A seasonal Lemon Meringue Tart is standout – the buttery shortcrust pastry filled with a creamy lemon ganache and topped with torched meringue. And a divine little Blueberry Loaf is topped with waves of blueberry buttercream and slivers of white chocolate.

WHILE EVERYTHING WE EAT IS deliciously memorable, is it our affable tea barista Rossi who steals the show –an add-on which costs just six Pounds more per guest.

Much like a coffee barista focuses on coffee, Fortnum's' "tearistas" are highly skilled and knowledgeable about the brewing and serving of tea, which, as we know, can do everything from liven and restore, to console and calm. Rossi takes us on a veritable journey from one plantation to another, tasting four exquisite teas in the process, each brewed for precisely the right amount of time before pouring. We are enamoured. If time is not an issue, an expert tea tasting is not to be missed.

THERE’S A CALM CONFIDENCE to the Diamond Jubilee Tea Salon that makes it feel both special and approachable. Everything flows with quiet assurance – nothing rushed, nothing overdone. It’s a place that honours tradition without getting stuck in it, where each tiered stand is thoughtfully assembled and every pot of tea poured with care. For the traveller who values substance over spectacle, an afternoon here offers a window into a more contemplative side of the city – one best savoured slowly, and remembered long after the last cup has been poured.

www.fortnumandmason.com

Roger Pizey

Classic Afternoon Tea

BRIAN BERGEY TRACES THE THAI CAPITAL’S CULINARY EVOLUTION, SPANNING SMOKY STREET FOOD STALLS TO MICHELIN-STARRED TASTING MENUS, IN A CITY WHERE FLAVOUR, HERITAGE, AND INNOVATION ARE SERVED SIDE BY SIDE

BANGKOK FOOD SCENE

BANGKOK

BANGKOK ➤ THAILAND

BANGKOK IS NOT A quiet city. It sizzles – visibly, audibly, and fragrantly. If it had a signature scent, it would be the smoky perfume of grilled meats, the pungency of fermented fish, the sweetness of coconut milk, and the ever-present hum of traffic.

At all hours, woks crackle over open flames, pots simmer atop rickety carts, and motorbikes dart through alleyways with foam takeout containers strapped to their rears. From upscale malls to narrow backstreets, the air is thick with the scent of something being prepared. Bangkok’s food scene is more than a culinary phenomenon – it’s an atmosphere, a rhythm, a way of life.

TODAY, THE THAI CAPITAL FREQUENTLY ranks as the most visited city in the world. Tourists may come for temples or nightlife, but many stay for the food. And it’s not just hungry travellers paying attention. The Michelin Guide has turned its gaze to the city’s streets, awarding stars and Bib Gourmand status to vendors who have never set foot inside a traditional kitchen. Jay Fai, the undisputed queen of the crab omelette, famously received a Michelin star without abandoning her modest roadside stall. @jayfaibangkok

Yet behind this modern-day acclaim lies a centuries-old story of migration, market trade, and culinary ingenuity. To truly grasp Bangkok’s gastronomic depth, one must look beyond Pad Thai and mango sticky rice, and follow the smoke into the heart of the city's street culture.

Jay Fai

TASTE & SIP FOOD SCENE

A CITY OF LAYERS: THE ORIGINS OF BANGKOK’S STREET FOOD

Bangkok is often crowned the street food capital of the world. Few places can rival the accessibility and affordability of its edible offerings. Recipes are passed down at kerbside stalls where families have worked the same corner for decades, while fine dining chefs seek inspiration seated on plastic stools beside office workers and schoolchildren.

What makes Bangkok remarkable is not just the volume or quality of its food, but that such a scene endures amidst one of Asia’s fastest-growing urban landscapes.

GEOGRAPHY FIRST SET THE STAGE

Situated along the Chao Phraya River, Bangkok has long served as a gateway to Southeast Asia. When King Rama I established the city as Siam’s capital in 1782, he welcomed communities from across the region: Chinese merchants, Lao and Khmer migrants, Muslim

families from the south. They brought spices, techniques, and traditions that collided and coalesced into something distinctly Bangkokian – an urban cuisine forged from multiplicity.

Today, that diversity remains tangible. Creamy green curry with Thai aubergines (a 20th-century invention) can be found beside stalls frying crispy oyster omelettes – a dish born of Chinese-Thai ingenuity. In a single market lane, skewers of satay with peanut sauce might sit next to delicate, royal-era snacks, each meticulously wrapped in banana leaves or shaped by hand.

Even Pad Thai has a political past. Introduced in the 1930s as part of a national campaign to unify identity and modernise diets, it was a government invention rather than a grassroots tradition. Mango sticky rice, now globally synonymous with Thai desserts, rose to prominence through street vendors who transformed a temple offering into an irresistible treat.

ALL IMAGES: BRIAN BERGEY

COEXISTENCE, NOT COMPROMISE: THE MODERN BANGKOK TABLE

As Bangkok expands its reputation in sectors like fashion, finance, and technology, it has also seen entire districts transform. Once-humble neighbourhoods such as Thonglor, Ekkamai, and Ari are now home to boutique hotels, cocktail lounges, and restaurants that would feel at home in New York or Tokyo. Yet unlike other global metropolises where modernisation often means the sanitisation of street life, Bangkok has chosen a path of coexistence. Luxury condominium towers may rise above weathered shophouses, but both are likely nourished by the same noodle vendor just outside. And rather than remove food stalls from pavements, the local government has implemented policies to protect them, offering training in hygiene, supporting mobile equipment upgrades, and helping vendors meet legal standards. These measures ensure that the city’s vital informal economy is not just preserved, but allowed and indeed encouraged to thrive. Consequently, many food stalls have remained in the same family for generations, with unwritten recipes passed from parent to child by memory and practice. These dishes, deeply local yet endlessly evolving, carry not only flavour but also legacy.

AFTER DARK, THE CITY'S CULINARY SOUL AWAKENS

Bangkok’s culinary soul shines brightest at night. As the heat of the day fades and the streets begin to hum, the food scene blossoms. And few experiences capture this better than a Lost Plate evening food tour - a local operator devoted to illuminating Thailand’s regional diversity through carefully selected dishes.

This is not a checklist tour of tourist favourites, nor a Michelin-ticking excursion. Rather, it’s an introduction to the many “Thailands” that exist within the capital, courtesy of a tuk-tuk that ferries foodies between stops throughout the evening's proceedings, weaving

through Bangkok’s vibrant nightscape, which isa reminder that, in this city, the journey is as flavourful as the destination.

The tour typically begins in Yaowarat, Bangkok’s historic Chinatown, where generations of Chinese-Thai families have curated their own culinary traditions. The air is thick with five-spice and garlic, crispy pork bellies dangle in windows, and diners perch elbow-to-elbow at tables that haven’t moved in decades. Here, Tom Yum soup’s lemongrass and kaffir lime are unexpectedly, but seamlessly, paired with Chinese-style wontons.

Next is a bustling local market, where central Thai snacks such as sai

krok (fermented pork sausage) and southern satay (turmeric-marinated skewers served with peanut sauce) can be found sizzling under bare lightbulbs. Metal woks clang and clouds of steam rise as regulars jostle to stock up for the evening.

The tour then veers north – not in geography, but in palate – into the bold, bracing world of Isan cuisine. Originating from Thailand’s rural northeast, this food is unapologetically punchy. Green papaya salad comes laced with fermented crab; sticky rice is meant to be eaten with the hands; and larb

– a minced meat salad perfumed with lime, herbs, and chilli – tells a story of agricultural resilience and resourcefulness.

No exploration of any city's food scene is complete without dessert! Though often overshadowed by mangocentric exports, Thai sweets possess a richness entirely their own. Made with ingredients like mung beans, taro and water chestnuts, these confections were developed to make the most of seasonal abundance. Simmered gently, sweetened lightly, and ladled over coconut milk, they offer a comforting finale.

https://lostplate.com

FINE DINING HAS ITS PLACE

Bangkok’s street vendors have long defined the city’s culinary DNA, but they are now joined by a new generation of chefs whose refined interpretations of Thai cuisine are earning accolades around the world. Venues such as Sühring, Le Du, and R-Haan have helped Bangkok climb the ranks of Asia’s gastronomic capitals, where precision plating and heritage ingredients coalesce into extraordinary tasting menus.

Yet even at the highest levels, Bangkok’s food identity remains rooted in its streets. These chefs are not erasing tradition – they are reimagining it,

TASTE & SIP FOOD SCENE

often through the lens of personal memory or regional pride. And in many cases, what appears in a fine dining setting is simply a tribute to a dish once eaten from a paper plate, under a fluorescent bulb, on a busy soi.

TUCKED DISCREETLY WITHIN

Capella Bangkok, Côte by Mauro Colagreco has rapidly carved out its place as one of the city’s most compelling fine dining restaurant. At its helm is Davide Garavaglia, a Milanese chef whose precision and creativity have reinterpreted Mediterranean cuisine with rare finesse. A protégé of Colagreco at Mirazur in Menton, Garavaglia brings a painter’s sensitivity to flavour, and a technician’s rigour to technique. His menus are elegant yet deceptively complex – each course a quiet revelation. The now-iconic ‘Red Cliff’ sees red mullet and prawn presented in a translucent consommé delicately scented with basil and shiso, a dish that feels both elemental and impossibly refined. Côte’s Riviera-inspired tasting menus take diners on a journey

that balances restraint with imagination, eschewing theatrics in favour of purity and clarity. It is this focus, this integrity of flavour, that has earned Côte two Michelin stars, and a devoted following among those seeking not simply fine dining,

but a deeply memorable gastronomic experience in the Thai capital.

cotebkk.com

TO UNDERSTAND BANGKOK IS to understand its food – not as sustenance, but as a repository of memory, identity and creativity. Here, flavours tell stories of trade and empire, migration and innovation. Ancient techniques meet modern sensibilities. Sacred offerings become beloved sweets. A roadside grill becomes a family’s legacy.

IN A CAPITAL

CHARGING

headlong into the future, food remains the thread that connects past to present, tradition to reinvention. It is the city’s most democratic pleasure, and its most enduring legacy. So next time you’re in Thailand’s bustling capital, don’t simply order Pad Thai. Ask where the recipe came from. And when you find out, savour it – not just the taste, but the history behind every bite.

Chef Davide Garavaglia

LITTLE BLACK BOOK

WEB DIRECTORY FOR ISSUE 50 OF THE CULTURED TRAVELLER MAGAZINE

AALL NIPPON AIRWAYS

➤ www.ana.co.jp

ARTER, ISTANBUL

➤ www.arter.org.tr

B

BAŠČARŠIJA NIGHTS

➤ www.bascarsijskenoci.bkc.ba

BOOM SUPERSONIC

➤ https://boomsupersonic.com

BORYEONG MUD FESTIVAL

➤ www.mudfestival.or.kr

BOULIA CAMEL RACES

➤ www.bouliacamelraces.com.au

CCASINA CINQUEPOZZI

➤ www.casinacinquepozzi.com

CELESTE

➤ www.celesteofficial.com

CHÂTEAU EZA

➤ www.chateaueza.com

CÔTE BY MAURO COLAGRECO

➤ www.cotebkk.com

CROWNE PLAZA CHANGI

AIRPORT

➤ www.ihg.com/crowneplaza

D

DIAMOND JUBILEE TEA SALON

➤ www.fortnumandmason.com

DOMINIC SKINNER

➤ www.dominicmua.com

DUBROVNIK SUMMER FESTIVAL

➤ www.dubrovnik-festival.hr/en

F

FAIRMONT BREAKERS

LONG BEACH

➤ www.fairmont-breakers.com

FAIRMONT MUMBAI

➤ www.fairmont.com/en

FAIRMONT QUASAR ISTANBUL

➤ https:// fairmontquasaristanbul.com

FESTIVAL INTERNACIONAL DE BENICÀSSIM

➤ www.fiberfib.com

FOUR POINTS BY SHERATON

HÀ GIANG

➤ https://four-points.marriott. com

G

GALATA TOWER

➤ https://muze.gen.tr

GALWAY INTERNATIONAL ARTS

FESTIVAL

➤ www.giaf.ie/festival

GRAND EGYPTIAN MUSEUM

➤ https://visit-gem.com/en

H

HAGIA SOPHIA

➤ https://muze.gen.tr

I

IL SAN CORRADO DI NOTO

➤ https://ilsancorradodinoto.com

ISTANBUL MODERN

➤ www.istanbulmodern.org

K

KENYA AIRWAYS

➤ www.kenya-airways.com

KNYSNA OYSTER FESTIVAL ➤ www.oysterfestival.co.za

L

LA TOMATINA

➤ www.latomatina.org

LOST PLATE FOOD TOURS

➤ https://lostplate.com

LUFTHANSA

➤ www.lufthansa.com

M

MANDAI RAINFOREST RESORT

➤ https://www.banyantree.com

MONKEY BAR, ISTANBUL ➤ www.monkeyistanbul.com

MONTREUX JAZZ FESTIVAL ➤ www.montreuxjazzfestival.com

MUSEUM OF MODERN ART, WARSAW ➤ https://artmuseum.pl/en

N

NEON MUZEUM, WARSAW

➤ www.neonmuzeum.org

NOTTING HILL CARNIVAL ➤ www.nhcarnival.org

OONE&ONLY AESTHESIS

➤ www.oneandonlyresorts.com

OUTLOOK ORIGINS ➤ www.outlookorigins.com

PPOLISH POSTER GALLERY

➤ https://polishpostergallery.com

PRIDE NEW YORK

➤ www.nycpride.org

RROSKILDE FESTIVAL

➤ www.roskilde-festival.dk/en

ROTOTOM SUNSPLASH

➤ www.rototomsunsplash.com

ROYAL CASTLE, WARSAW

➤ https://zamek-krolewski.pl/en

S

SAKIP SABANCI MUSEUM

➤ https://sakipsabancimuzesi. org

SALT BEYOĞLU

➤ https://saltonline.org

SCOOT

➤ www.flyscoot.com

SIX SENSES KYOTO

➤ www.sixsenses.com/en

SLS BARCELONA

➤ https://slshotels.com

SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE

HANOI

➤ www.sofitel-legendmetropole-hanoi.com

SOHO HOUSE ISTANBUL

➤ www.sohohouseistanbul.com

SOM FESTIVAL

➤ www.somfestival.es

STEPHEN JONES

➤ www.stephenjonesmillinery.com

TTANG DUBAI

➤ https://dxb.tanghospitality.com

TATE MODERN

➤ www.tate.org.uk

THE EDINBURGH FRINGE

➤ www.edfringe.com

THE PENINSULA ISTANBUL

➤ www.peninsula.com

THE PERRY HOTEL NAPLES

➤ www.perryhotelnaples.com

THE ST. REGIS BELGRADE

➤ https://st-regis.marriott.com

U

UNITED AIRLINES

➤ www.united.com

VVERANDA RESORT PHUKET

➤ https://autograph-hotels. marriott.com

VICTORIA AND ALBERT

MUSEUM

➤ www.vam.ac.uk

VIRGIN GALACTIC

➤ www.virgingalactic.com

VISIT WARSAW

➤ https://go2warsaw.pl/en

W

WATERBOMB SEOUL

➤ www.waterbombfestival.com

WAY OUT WEST

➤ www.wayoutwest.se

WILANÓW PALACE

➤ https://wilanow-palac.pl/en

WORLD BODYPAINTING

FESTIVAL

➤ www.bodypainting-festival. com

Y

YEREVAN WINE DAYS

➤ www.yerewinedays.am

Z

ZACHĘTA NATIONAL GALLERY OF ART

➤ https://zacheta.art.pl/en

stephen jones TRAVEL TIPS FROM THE

STEPHEN JONES KNOWS HOW TO MAKE AN ENTRANCE, WHETHER IT’S ON A RUNWAY OR IN AN ARRIVALS HALL. WE ASKED THE LEGENDARY BRITISH MILLINER A DOZEN QUESTIONS ABOUT HOW HE TRAVELS, WHAT HE PACKS, AND WHERE HE FEELS MOST STYLISHLY HIMSELF

DO YOU TRAVEL LIGHT, OR WITH THEATRICAL FLOURISH? It is my intention to travel light, but sadly it never happens.

YOUR GO-TO TRAVEL UNIFORM? A grey Comme des Garçons suit, which is already wrinkled, normally paired with a beret. On a long-haul flight I will always take pyjamas with me, and change because it gives me the idea that I am going to bed and I am waking up. Perhaps I won’t sleep at all, but it helps to reset my brain.

HOW DO YOU KEEP YOUR HATS IN PERFECT SHAPE EN ROUTE? A Louis Vuitton hat box, always.

CHECKED OR CARRY-ON ONLY? Checked.

FAVOURITE SUITCASE OR TRAVEL BAG? A Samsonite suitcase in navy blue, because they are the most functional.

ANY CLEVER IN-FLIGHT STYLE TIPS? Look first class even if you are flying in economy.

IS THERE AN AIRPORT YOU SECRETLY ENJOY? I enjoy using the First Wing at Heathrow Terminal 5 because I am a British Airways lifetime gold member. And Terminal 1 at Charles de Gaulle, because it f eels like being in a 1970’s space movie.

DO YOU HAVE AN IN-FLIGHT BEAUTY ROUTINE? Years ago, I used Prescriptives by Estée Lauder's flight cream. Before Prescriptives closed down in 2011, I think I bought every last pot on the planet! Now I use Dior Prestige Le Baume de Minuit revitalising night cream, because it’s one of the richest that exists. I also carefully moisture my body with Mario Badescu Super Rich Olive Oil Body Lotion.

IS THERE A HOTEL THAT ALWAYS FEELS LIKE HOME? Claridge's.

WHAT’S ALWAYS IN YOUR HAND LUGGAGE? Ipad, heart pills, and sunglasses for getting off at the other end.

HAVE YOU EVER DESIGNED A HAT WITH TRAVEL IN MIND? I designed the hats for British Airways' uniforms, which were used for almost 20 years.

FINALLY, WHERE DO YOU FEEL MOST EFFORTLESSLY STYLISH? In bed.