The Cultured Traveller, December 2023-February 2024 Issue 44

THE CITY OF LAKES

44 ➤ DECEMBER 2023 – FEBRUARY 2024

46 INDIA’S HISTORIC CITY OF LAKES & PALACES

Like its fabled palaces, ancient Hindu temples and sprawling fortifications, UDAIPUR has been shaped by layers of history and generations of Maharanas who lived in an era when existential wars were fought for love and pride. J oe Mortimer finds moments of calm in a charismatic city that wears its history on its sleeve.

76 A TIMELESS SOUTH AFRICAN HOSPITALITY ICON

Steeped in history and exuding the charm of a bygone era, THE OYSTER BOX has grown from a humble cottage into an elegant grand dame property. Nicholas Chrisostomou checks into one of the African continent's most cherished hotels.

82 TOTAL SILENCE IN THE AGE OF NOISE

Drowned in an incessant stream of notifications and distractions, the modern age often robs us of the opportunity to introspect and cultivate greater awareness. Taking some overdue time out for himself, Imad Yassin unplugs at a SILENT RETREAT on the Indonesian island of Bali.

44 DISCONNECT FROM THE WORLD IN SRI LANKA

Located off the tourist trail in Sri Lanka’s densely forested eastern hinterland, Gal Oya National Park is a stunning, untamed natural frontier. Courtesy of The Cultured Traveller , one of our lucky readers will spend four nights at GAL OYA LODGE – including all meals for two and a boat safari – and enjoy a one-of-a-kind, down-to-earth wilderness experience of a lifetime.

Saas-Bahu Temple Complex, Udaipur, Rajasthan

CONTENTS

12 NEWSFLASH

Over the festive season, the world comes alive with everything from traditional Christmas markets to music festivals and colourful carnivals, including ART BASEL MIAMI BEACH, which turns the famous Floridian city into an artdrenched ecosystem brimming with diversity; FÊTE DES LUMIÈRES, which attracts thousands of people to Lyon to be dazzled by the spectacular illuminations; one of the biggest salsa festivals in the world, LA FERIA DE CALI, in the Colombian city of Santiago de Cali, and one of Japan's three great annual float festivals, CHICHIBU YOMATSURI, which dates back more than 300 years and celebrates Chichibu Shrine’s history.

28

REST YOUR HEAD

From a safari-style tented Himalayan lodge, situated on the

banks of the Mo Chu River in Bhutan’s Punakha Valley, to a Californian inn which has been welcoming guests since the late 1880s, when the first pioneers began settling in Santa Ynez Valley, The Cultured Traveller checks out a dozen new hotels around the world that each offers a culture-rich stay, including ROSEWOOD MUNICH, spanning two of the city’s meticulously restored heritage buildings in the heart of the Bavarian capital’s old town, and CAPELLA SYDNEY, which occupies an entire block in the city’s prestigious Sandstone Precinct and is housed within a historic building that took seven years to painstakingly restore and convert.

66

SPOTLIGHT

Samantha Henderson visits the ISLAND OF HAWAI'I, which, being home to some of the most consistently active volcanoes on the planet, is considered to be an unparalleled expression of the sheer power of Mother Nature.

88 ISLAND HOPPING

Until relatively recently, the lush islands on Cambodia's south coast were one of the country’s best kept secrets. Lapped by the

Gulf of Thailand’s warm waters, Nicholas Chrisostomou visits SIX SENSES

KOH KRABEY and hops to a few of the gorgeous islands nearby.

98

TASTE & SIP REVIEW

113

MUSIC & NIGHT LIFE

Inspired by his celebrated restaurant Mirazur, CÔTE sees Argentinian chef Mauro Colagreco’s renowned food philosophy transported from the French Riviera to Bangkok and expertly executed by talented chef Davide Garavaglia. Nicholas Chrisostomou reviews one of the Thai capital’s hottest restaurants.

103 TASTE & SIP INTERVIEW

Reaping widespread acclaim for his stylish, contemporary British fare which focuses on seasonality and minimal wastage, The Cultured Traveller chats with Michelin-starred chef and restaurateur, ADAM HANDLING, about what drives him, sustainable cooking and how he motivates his 200-strong team.

108 TASTE & SIP EXPERIENCE

Nicholas Chrisostomou journeys to Thirassia in the Cyclades, off the coast of Santorini, to visit the first winery to be built on the island, MIKRA THIRA, and meet its founder and oenologist, Ioanna Vamvakouri, who is responsible for some of Greece’s finest wines.

The Cultured Traveller sits down with ground-breaking Orkney-born interdisciplinary composer, producer and multi-instrumentalist, ERLAND COOPER, who has moved people to tears with his evocative compositions.

118

SHOPPING

Adrian Gibson takes the hassle out of your Christmas shopping with his curated round-up of snazzy, editor-approved gifts, from the affordable and fun to the downright decadent, every one of which can be purchased online from the comfort of your home.

129

LITTLE BLACK BOOK

Web addresses for everywhere featured in the 2023 Christmas and holidays issue of The Cultured Traveller magazine.

130 TRAVEL TIPS FROM THE TOP

Not one to travel light, iconic British fashion and textile designer, DAME ZANDRA RHODES, has recently been criss-crossing the planet to donate selected pieces from her archive to museums everywhere from China to the United States.

CONTRIBUTORS

JOE MORTIMER

➤ CITY FOCUS ➤ UDAIPUR

A UK travel writer and editor who specialises in luxury travel and high-end hospitality, and former editor of Destinations of the World News, Joe is an avid wine enthusiast who spent most of lockdown studying for his WSET Level 3 exams. When he is not operating a corkscrew, Joe can usually be found wandering around the Mendip Hills or planning his next great adventure.

IMAD YASSIN

➤ NO SHOES REQUIRED ➤ BALI SILENT RETREAT

A global citizen with a background in genetics, with a great passion for travelling and discovering new cultures, Imad is dedicated to identifying innovative treatments for diseases using artificial intelligence. Beyond professional pursuits, Imad's philanthropic efforts focus on enhancing health and education for children in displaced regions and refugee camps, and Imad is the proud founder of ➤ IdrisFoundation.com

ADRIAN GIBSON

➤ SHOPPING ➤ CHRISTMAS GIFT GUIDE

For more than two decades, Adrian has worked as a professional fashion buyer for some of the world’s leading stores, in London and Dubai, including Selfridges, Harrods and Harvey Nichols. An avid shopper, he enjoys nothing more than visiting stores, meeting designers and supporting new talent wherever and whenever he’s travelling the globe, as well as keeping a keen eye on the latest trends.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

PUBLISHER COCO LATTÉ

DESIGN TAHIR IQBAL

EDITORIAL JEMIMA THOMPSON, LISA WEYMAN

ADVERTISING JEREMY GORING

RETOUCHING STELLA ALEVIZAKI

THIS ISSUE’S CONTRIBUTORS

Joseph Mortimer, Imad Yassin, Aryan Khan, Samantha Henderson, Adrian Gibson, Howard Healy

WITH THANKS TO

Jeannette Ho, Raffles Hotels, Nirmal Kumar Singh

Gal Oya Lodge, Shelley Soffier, Red Carnation Hotels

Sally Gray

The Cultured Traveller is published by Coco Latté, London

Advertising and sponsorship enquiries: ads@theculturedtraveller.com

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THE CULTURED TRAVELLER ➤ ISSUE 44

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THE CULTURED TRAVELLER COCO LATTÉ, 5 MERCHANT SQ. LONDON W2 1AY, UK

COVER: Gangaur Ghat, Lake Pichola, Udaipur

Photographed by Aryan Khan

WITHIN MOMENTS OF landing in India, I’m reminded why the vast country is not only the most populous nation in the world today, but also the most fascinating, kaleidoscopic and truly mesmerising, its immense wonders both exemplifying the epitome of a cultured destination and its tapestry of senses charming all who visit. There really is nowhere like India, and our time in Rajasthan, researching the cover story of this issue, provides untold encounters that I will undoubtedly remember for years to come.

From the bustling bazaars of Jaipur, where vibrant textiles in every imaginable shade dance in the wind, to the grand palaces, majestic temples and serene lakes of Udaipur, where the rich aroma of incense mingles with the soul-stirring chants of devotees, re-visiting India after a long hiatus is a sensory extravaganza that touches me in a way I had forgotten travel so instantly can. In this illuminating post-pandemic renaissance, if 2023 has taught me anything, it is that now is the time to rediscover the myriad of treasures that Asia has to offer.

ISSUE 44 IS THE FIRST IN THE CULTURED Traveller’s history to sport two different covers, not least because the City of Lakes is such a photogenic subject. Shaped by layers of history and generations of Maharanas, Joseph Mortimer finds moments of calm in captivating Udaipur to uncover the unique character of the Rajasthani city that wears its history on its sleeve (page 46). Meanwhile, first time contributor, Imad Yassin, digitally disconnects and takes time out at a silent retreat on the island of Bali (page 82); Samantha Henderson visits the Island of Hawai’i, home to some of the most active volcanoes on the

planet (page 66). And not one to travel light, iconic British fashion and textile designer, Zandra Rhodes, reveals how she criss-crosses the globe in such effortless style (page 130)

AS THE FESTIVE SEASON approaches and our thoughts turn to fresh experiences, we naturally reflect on our travel goals for the new year ahead. We envision exploring far-flung destinations and immersing ourselves in new cultures. Or perhaps it is the allure of pristine beaches and turquoise waters that beckon. Personally, I most enjoy wandering ancient streets, savouring local delicacies and discovering hidden gems along the way. But whatever tempts you to travel in 2024, in the spirit of Christmas, we can use the opportunity to give back through travel, aspire to engage in sustainable and responsible tourism, and preserve the natural wonders that make our planet so extraordinary. And by choosing eco-friendly hotels and participating in community-based initiatives, we can all make a positive impact while indulging in our wanderlust.

Nicholas Chrisostomou Editor-in-Chief

@TCTEditor nicholas@theculturedtraveller.com

From left to right: Bali; Udaipur City Palace; Dame Zandra Rhodes; Island of Hawai'i

OVER THE FESTIVE SEASON, THE WORLD SEEMINGLY COMES ALIVE WITH EVERYTHING FROM TRADITIONAL CHRISTMAS MARKETS TO MUSIC FESTIVALS AND COLOURFUL CARNIVALS. IN NEWSFLASH, THE CULTURED TRAVELLER TEAM ROUNDS-UP THOSE THAT SHOULDN’T BE MISSED DURING THE COMING MONTHS

CHRISTMAS AT KEW

OCCUPYING THE SITE of a former royal estate in the London borough of Richmond upon Thames, The Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew were created in 1759 and have, over the centuries, made a significant contribution to the study of plant diversity and economic botany. Today a world-leading scientific organisation, showcasing a huge living collection of plants and fungi across its 330-acre site, which was inscribed onto the World Heritage List in 2003,

every Christmas the gardens are lit up with an array of glistening lights and illuminations, complete with the most spectacular light trail. This year’s route takes visitors past glass houses emblazoned with kaleidoscopic projections, and through shimmering tunnels of light and trees drenched in sparkling colours. A spectacular light, music and water display in front of the iconic Palm House is also not to be missed. Until 7 January 2024 www.kew.org

FRANKFURT

CHRISTMAS MARKET

WHILST MANY GERMAN cities and towns have a scenic backdrop of historic houses and beautiful squares for their Weihnachtsmärkte , dating back to 1393, Frankfurt's Christmas market is one of the oldest in the country and the scenery and atmosphere is utterly enchanting. Officially opened by the city's mayor on 27 November, the elaborate and lavish decorations, the scenic surroundings of the Römerberg, Friedrich-StoltzeSquare and St. Paul's Square, and the huge Christmas tree in front of the Römer, all combine to make Frankfurt's Christmas market one of Germany's most beautiful, stretching from the Zeil shopping mall to the Römerberg and down to the River Main. With more than two hundred beautifully decorated stalls vying for attention and the scent of roasted chestnuts, mulled wine and grilled sausages filling the air, it's impossible to resist sipping on hot apple wine with cinnamon and cloves or treating yourself to some Bethmännchen almond candies. Until 21 December 2023 www.frankfurt-tourismus.de

ART BASEL MIAMI BEACH

SINCE IT FIRST PREMIERED in 2002, Art Basel Miami Beach has created such an art-drenched ecosystem brimming with diversity, that today there is something for pretty much everyone at this five-day artistic spectacle which completely takes over the famous beachfront Floridian city. While the fair's epicenter is the Miami Beach Convention Center, there are literally dozens of offshoots and quirky exhibitions, films, performances and shows throughout the city. This year, leading galleries

hailing from five continents will be showing significant works by masters of modern and contemporary art, as well as the new generation of emerging stars, including paintings, sculptures, installations and photographs, not to mention high-quality museum-calibre masterpieces. Meanwhile, “Conversations” will bring together some of today’s most inspiring cultural figures via a series of live debates, as they exchange views about key topics shaping the world of art and culture. 6-10 December 2023

www.artbasel.com/miami-beach

CHICHIBU YOMATSURI

90 MINUTES FROM central Tokyo, The Chichibu Night Festival, known locally as Yomatsuri , is an annual two-day event that celebrates Chichibu Shrine’s history which dates back more than 300 years. Widely considered to be one of Japan's three great annual float festivals, it is held every year on 2nd and 3rd December, with the main action taking place on the second night. Six ornately carved and beautifully decorated floats, or mikoshi , are carried by teams of Japanese men through the town. The floats are adorned with lanterns, tapestries and gilded wood carvings and accompanied by drum and flute music. On the second day from 7pm, after the floats have processed through the streets of Chichibu, they are hoisted up the steep slopes to the plaza by city hall. This is followed by a vast celebratory firework display lasting more than two hours, while the streets are lined with stands selling delicious festival foods and amazake (sweet rice wine) to warm-up onlookers during the cold December nights. 2-3 December 2023

www.chichibu-matsuri.jp/en/

RISE FESTIVAL

AN ACTION-PACKED week of snow, music and high altitude fun, held every December in the picturesque snow-covered village of Les Deux Alpes, near Lyon and Chamonix in France, Rise Festival has been growing steadily since its inception ten years ago, attracting international crowds to its breathtaking location atop Europe’s largest skiable glacier, and has played host to a number of impressive musical partners, from Ibiza Rocks to Shut The Front Door and Applebum. And since hurtling down mountains in between partying

can be tiring, Rise puts particular emphasis on wellbeing opportunities, including yoga and spa treatments, meaning that the week is not entirely high-octane. Whether you were born with skis on your feet or you’re a freshman on the slopes, there’s something for everyone in Les Deux Alpes with its 220 kilometres of piste. This year’s Rise line-up, performing high up in the heart of the Alps, include Jungle (DJ Set), Chris Stussy, Sonny Fodera and more, plus two stage takeovers by the influential independent UK record label, Another Rhythm. 9-16 December 2023 www.rise-festival.com

DJAKARTA WAREHOUSE PROJECT

WITH AN AUDIENCE of 90,000, the Djakarta Warehouse Project, commonly referred to as DWP, is one of the largest electronic dance music (EDM) festivals in Asia. Originally conceived as a nightclub event by Indonesian concert promoter Ismaya Live in the early 2000s, the party grew so big that DWP had to be moved to a warehouse to accommodate the crowd. Founded in 2008, the festival used to take place annually in Jakarta, but will this year be held at the GWK Cultural Park on the Indonesian island of Bali. Over the years, DWP has solidified its reputation as a mustattend event for dance music aficionados around the world, with a wide range of sub-genres, that fall under the electronic umbrella, featured during the three-day weekend, which is presided over by a DJ line-up that’s nothing short of a who’s who of the dance music world, with Martin Garrix, Calvin Harris and Skrillex having headlined in the past.

This year’s 15th anniversary gathering will be headlined by David Guetta, Dimitri Vegas, Like Mike and DJ Snake and is sure to be a sell-out. 8-10 December 2023

https://dwpfest.com

ST. KITTS–NEVIS CARNIVAL

OFFICIALLY KNOWN AS the St. Kitts and Nevis National Carnival, whilst locals affectionately call it “Sugar Mas”, there’s no better way to experience Kittitian culture than the islands’ annual carnival, which spans more than two weeks and marks the end of the year and the start of a new one in vibrant, colourful fashion. Celebrating the history and culture of St. Kitts and Nevis and the largest event in the Federation, the island of St. Kitts comes alive with Caribbean colours and calypso tunes, along with numerous

BURNING THE CLOCKS

HAVING BEEN A Brighton tradition for more than twenty-five years, Burning T he Clocks is a unique community event that brings together the entire south coast seaside city to mark the Winter Solstice. Created in 1994 by the award-winning community arts charity Same Sky, as a way to celebrate the holiday spirit regardless of people's religious beliefs, thousands of spectators now routinely turn out to watch the massive street parade and participate in this unique event, which is essentially a peaceful yet dramatic rebellion

against the modern-day excesses of Christmastime commercialism. Brighton locals make beautiful paper and willow star lanterns, and after the procession that slowly snakes through the city, they put them into a blazing bonfire on Brighton beach to mark the end of the year. While the main event is free to attend, donating £75 or more to the event’s Crowdfunder page will get you two VIP wrist bands which grant entry to the beachhead, with the best view of the effigy burning and fireworks show..

21 December 2023

https://samesky.co.uk

LA FERIA DE CALI

ORGANISED BY ANDERSON Vargas and staged annually from Christmas Day onwards, one of the biggest and most anticipated salsa festivals in the world takes place in the most populous city in southwest C olombia - Santiago de C ali, southwest of Bogotá. A city long renowned for salsa, with numerous clubs in the suburb of Juanchito, the festival has been running since 1957 and is one of the be st things to do in Cali for anyone interested in arts and culture. Often attracting more than one million visitors, who travel from all corners of the globe, the city’s

parades, masquerade balls and talent pageants. Plus, it’s the only Caribbean carnival that incorporates Christmas festivities into the proceedings. There’s also the crowning of the carnival queen, the calypso contest and the Grand Parade to look out for. Essentially a license to have fun and over-indulge at a variety of fêtes, sunset cruises, bar crawls and street celebrations, the packed schedule of events will test the stamina of even the most professional party animal!.

15 December 2023 - 2 January 2024

https://skncarnival.com

Salsadrome is usually where the festivities begin and kick-off the rest of the events. And it is at the Salsadrome, on 25th December, where you’ll see the liveliest dancers wearing the most colourful costumes, and some of Colombia’s very best salsa dancers will perform, many of whom dance the Salsa Caleña style, which is energetic and cheerful. Not only is La Feria de Cali a tribute to the people of Cali, but it also showcases many elements of local Afro-Colombian culture, with everything from music to gastronomy having a place during the six days of fun.

25-30 December 2023

TIMKAT

HELD IN ADDIS ABABA and the most important festival for Orthodox Christians in Ethiopia, during a colourful procession during which priests carry sacred replicas of the Ark of the Covenant, known as tabots , Timkat celebrates the baptism of Jesus Christ.

20 January 2024

HOGMANAY

FREQUENTLY NAMECHECKED

as one of the top one hundred things to do before you die, three days of spectacular events, big bands and electrified crowds from every corner of the globe annually come together in Edinburgh for one of the world’s biggest and best New Year's Eve celebrations. See Shetland Vikings bearing fire-lit torches, hear beautiful choral singing in St. Giles' C athedral, enjoy birling to traditional Scottish music in the Old Town and watch incredible fireworks from Princes Street Gardens. In years gone by, 150,000 revellers from over 70 countries have even been known to join hands for the world’s biggest rendition of Auld Lang Syne! Whilst this year's programme has yet to be completely finalised, for sure it will include a torchlight procession, an array of family-friendly events and a massive street party. And this year’s Concert in the Gardens will be headlined by pioneering Brit-pop band Pulp, whose stylish sounds will see in 2024.

29 December 2023 - 1 January 2024 www.edinburghshogmanay.com

HARBIN ICE FESTIVAL

USUALLY THE LARGEST OF its kind on the planet, it takes fifteen thousand ice sculptors and artisans to create the breathtaking, illuminated ice sculptures and statues that make-up China’s annual “Ice City” at Harbin’s worldfamous ice and snow festival. Working painstakingly for weeks from early December, they cut over one hundred thousand cubic metres of ice blocks from Songhua River’s frozen surface and fashion them into numerous full-size buildings and figures. Unsurprisingly, the incredible spectacle attracts masses of winter tourists. While the sculpture festival doesn’t officially open until the first week of January, two huge exhibition areas – Sun Island and Ice & Snow World – open just before Christmas, offering eager visitors everything from ice slides and Yabuli alpine skiing to snowmobile driving and winter-swimming in the Songhua River. An array of slightly more conservative winter attractions can be found dotted throughout the city, including an ice lantern exhibition in Zhaolin Garden in central Harbin.

Late December 2023 - Late February 2024

CARTAGENA MUSIC FESTIVAL

EVERY JANUARY FOR one week, the historic Colombian walled city of Cartagena opens to the public some of its most charming, colonial indoor and outdoor spaces for its annual Festival Internacional de Music.

Performances by classical musicians from around the planet quite literally fill Cartagena with song, including the beautiful Teatro Heredia and Plaza San Pedro Claver, as well as the divine chapels of Santa Teresa, Iglesia de Santo Toribio and hotel Santa Clara. Entitled “Symphony of Nature”, the 2024 festival is dedicated to the exploration of Scandinavian music and its references and inspirations from Central Europe. In particular, the festival will explore the myths, landscapes, national identity and modernity in Northern European music hailing from the 19th and early 20th centuries, and reflect on the relationship between art and nature, and on the influence that nature has had on artistic and musical creations.

5-13 January 2024 www.cartagenamusicfestival.com

ATI-ATIHAN

BELIEVED TO BE THE oldest festival in the country, whose roots can be traced back to early settlers in Borneo, Ati-Atihan is the most spectacular of the Philippines’ annual celebrations. While Filipinos are known worldwide for their gracious hospitality and friendly nature, this particular feast festival allows visitors a glimpse of their wild, colourful and play ful side – a facet of these devout and thoughtful people rarely seen in public. Held annually in January in honour of Santo Niño (the Infant Jesus), Ati-Atihan is a festival of constant movement, drumming and feasting. It is essentially a non-stop riot of exhibitionism, costume, music and dance. S oot black-painted faces, feather headdresses and animal bones create a show-stopping visual treat throughout the proceedings, and after days of relentless drumming and festivities, it's nigh on impossible for even the most reluctant and restrained traveller no t to get stuck-in and participate in the raucous and romping all-night masquerade closing ball.

21 January 2024

THE BPM FESTIVAL

SET ON THE GORGEOUS white sand beaches of Tamarindo – which are some of the most beautiful in Costa Rica and perfect for surfing, sportfishing, diving and sunning – since its inception in 2008, BPM has rapidly grown into a destination EDM festival to rival the summer scene on the Spanish party island of Ibiza. BPM's humble beginnings as a ho spitality industry event to bring together bartenders, promoters and musicians (hence "BPM"), is a far cry from today’s sprawling music gathering that draws tens of thousands of people from all over the globe who descend on Costa Rica to soak up the tropical sun, drawn by a roster of some of the world's most popular dance music artists and DJs performing on three stages in the jungle, with this year’s line-up including Paco Osuna, Bedouin, Eli & Fur, Franky Rizardo, Gordo, Hernan Cattaneo, Rafa Barrios and many more. Aside from dozens upon dozens of official events, divided into day and night shows hosted by record labels and promoters, revelers are also drawn by numerous unofficial events, parties and funky musical happenings which pop-up throughout the festival. 24-28 January 2024

https://thebpmfestival.com

THE WORLD’S BIGGEST carnival after Rio, the start of a new year is not just about fresh goals and aspirations for the people of Colombia, it also heralds the beginning of carnival season, which is celebrated in colourful style with a four-day extravaganza on Barranquilla’s streets. 10-13 February 2024

https://carnavaldebarranquilla.org

WAKAKUSA YAMAYAKI

EFFECTIVELY AN ENTIRE mountainside going up in flames in a controlled burn, is one of the most impressive sights annually in Japan. A former volcano rising almost three hundred and fifty metres above sea level, Mount Wakakusayama, in the Japanese city of Nara, is the location for this annual event held on the fourth Saturday of January. Following a parade that includes a giant rice cracker tossing competition, a torch is lit with sacred fire at Shinto shrine Kasuga Taisha. Buddhist monks then carry the sacred fire down to a small shrine at the foot of the mount. First, members of Kasuga Taisha and Buddhist temples Kōfuku-ji and Tōdai-ji ignite it. Then hundreds of fireworks are launched, followed by the ritual burning. For roughly an hour, the grasses covering the slopes of Mount Wakakusayama blaze as if a red hell is draped over the mountainside. When all of it is eventually alight, like a gigantic torch, the fire can be seen for miles around.

27 January 2024

UP HELLY AA

ONE OF EUROPE’S largest and most spectacular fire festivals and a gathering of the region’s Viking heritage, Up Helly Aa takes place on the last Tuesday of January every year in Lerwick, the main port of Scotland’s Shetland Islands. Something of a spectacle, a celebration of Shetland history, and a triumphant demonstration of islanders' skills and spirit, this veritable Scottish Mardi Gras, run entirely by volunteers, lasts just one day (and all the following night) buts takes several

thousand people 364 days to organise. Much of the preparation is in strictest secrecy. The biggest secret of all is what the head of the festival, the 'Guizer Jarl' (representing the Viking chief), will wear and which character from the Norse Sagas they'll represent. The spectacle culminates in over 1,000 heavilydisguised torch-bearers participating in a dramatic torch-lit procession, at the end of which, their burning torches are thrown into a traditional Viking longship.

30 January 2024

www.uphellyaa.org

VINTERJAZZ

DENMARK’S world - renowned winter jazz festival has been thawing the Scandinavian chill with smoking tunes for more than twenty years, spanning the gamut from electronic to experimental, funk to free and mainstream to modern jazz. Having gradually grown into one of the biggest European gatherings of the musical genre, the festival’s main aim is to unify music-loving audiences, professional organisers, local enthusiasts and hard-working musicians. Taking place over three weeks, there are literally hundreds of concerts to experience at dozens of different

venues across Denmark. International stars on tour, new award-winning productions and different concert themes drop anchor in numerous of the country’s cities and suburbs. Hence, Vinterjazz very much kick-starts the season for the country’s clubs and helps keep the music playing throughout the year. Headlining the 2024 festival are Danish-Finnish double bassist, composer and producer, Lennart Ginman, who is one of Denmark's most recognized and respected musicians. And former Prince collaborator, Danish bass player, composer and vocalist, Ida Nielsen. 1-25 February 2024 https://jazz.dk

RIO CARNIVAL

ROUTINELY attracting more than a million people onto the streets of the famous Brazilian city daily, Rio is considered the world’s biggest and most glittering carnival and the party of a lifetime for many, with those who attend prepared to samba the day and night away. Beginning with the crowning of King Momo (the Fat King), who is presented with an over-sized silver and gold key by Rio’s mayor, street bands, dancers and party folk take over the squares and the streets as the festivities get underway, led by traditional samba schools hailing from the city’s favelas. While the main parade at the Sambodromo might be the most iconic in the world, the real festivities happen in and around Rio’s streets, with hundreds of parties taking place across the city before and after carnival weekend, bringing the huge metropolis to a colourful and loud standstill. If you are visiting Rio for carnival, as well as at least one outrageous costume party, be sure to catch a Bloco, sometimes called bandas , which are free street parties that take place throughout the city.

9-17 February 2024

www.rio-carnival.net

Ida Nielsen

rest your

➤ PUNAKHA ➤ SANTORINI ➤ DUBAI ➤ RIVIERA MAYA ➤ NEW YORK ➤ KRAKÓW

➤ MUNICH ➤ ROME ➤ PORTO ➤ LOS OLIVOS ➤ FUNCHAL ➤ SYDNEY

&BEYOND PUNAKHA RIVER LODGE

DESPITE BEING SANDWICHED BETWEEN THE POWERHOUSES of India and China, the mere mention of Bhutan conjures up an intense air of magic and mystery. "The Land of the Thunder Dragon”; Lhomen Khazhi - the land of four gateways, and "The Last Shangri-La”, throughout its long and colourful history, Bhutan has been known by many different names, each adding to its reputation as an almost legendary, mythical land. A place of awe-inspiring peaks and glaciers, mountain lakes and fast-flowing rivers, ancient forests, tigers and leopards, today, the tiny remote Himalayan kingdom of Bhutan’s sense of unrushed timelessness is somewhat at odds with the internet-fuelled frenzy of contemporary 21st century western life, which is just one of the things that makes it such an enticing destination.

Luxury travel company &Beyond recently opened its first Asian lodge, situated on the banks of the Mo Chu River in Bhutan’s Punakha Valley. Considered to be one of the kingdom’s most beautiful and fertile valleys, not to mention the warmest, alive with golden monasteries and an array of

flora and fauna, Punakha is located in in the western region of Bhutan, about three hours’ drive from the capital of Thimphu.

Boasting uninterrupted views of the Himalayas and featuring six safari-style tented suites, a one-bedroom villa with hot tub, and a two-bedroom villa with private pool, the lodge draws inspiration from its stunning natural surroundings and combines traditional Bhutanese style with contemporary yet subtle twists.

The woodwork sports decorative painted and gilded detailing, particularly in the bathrooms, which feature elegant brass-clad tubs. Bhutan’s national flower – the blue poppy – is a recurring theme woven throughout the rooms. Handwoven Bhutanese wool products are used as upholstery, linen detailing and blankets, adding bold, bright and textured touches to the otherwise simple and unpretentious interiors. Inordinately warm and soulful, the overall feeling is one of peace and wellbeing deftly married with a genuine sense of place.

www.andbeyond.com

head

FROM A NEW SAFARI-STYLE TENTED HIMALAYAN LODGE, SITUATED ON THE BANKS OF THE MO CHU RIVER IN MAGICAL BHUTAN’S PUNAKHA VALLEY, TO A CALIFORNIAN INN WHICH HAS BEEN WELCOMING GUESTS SINCE THE LATE 1880S, WHEN THE FIRST PIONEERS BEGAN SETTLING IN THE MOUNTAINFRINGED SANTA YNEZ VALLEY, THE CULTURED TRAVELLER CHECKS OUT A DOZEN NEW HOTELS AROUND THE WORLD THAT EACH OFFER A SPECIAL, CULTURE-RICH STAY

DANAE SUITES

THE GREEK ISLAND OF SANTORINI IS FAMED FOR ITS volcanic-sand beaches, multicoloured cliffs and its dramatic, crescent-shaped caldera, part of which is topped with charming whitewashed buildings in Oia, complete with incredible views of the infinite blue sea. Undoubtedly one of the Aegean’s gems, Santorini is also something of a natural wonder, having been formed by a massive volcanic eruption thousands of years ago. Visitors enjoy fiery sunsets and spectacular panoramas aplenty, which makes Santorini incredibly popular and extremely busy during the summer months. For this reason, we recommend either visiting the island in April or October, or basing yourself well away from Oia and Fira, which are both overly crowded from May through September.

About 10 minutes by car from Oia and 15 minutes from Fira, Danae Suites opened late last year offering a relaxed, laid-back and unpretentious accommodation option on an island which can at times be too pricey and too busy to be enjoyable.

Warm, homely and functional, the resort’s cozy Cycladic-styled rooms and suites provide the perfect base from which to explore the island, and return to in the evening to recharge, relax and enjoy a wholesome, reasonably priced meal accompanied by a fine bottle of Greek wine. Speaking of which, a number of rather good wineries are located close to Danae Suites, a couple of which are within walking distance and well-worth visiting.

Surrounded by a wealth of loungers and fringed by a relaxed, café-style pool bar serving snacks, salads, drinks and cocktails all day, the hotel’s social scene revolves around a large pool looking towards the Aegean Sea, which is ideal for taking a break from sightseeing and soaking-up some Mediterranean sun, or simply sipping sundowners. www.danaesuites.com

SO/ UPTOWN DUBAI

LOCATED ON THE SOUTHEAST COAST OF THE PERSIAN GULF and the capital of its emirate, which is one of the seven that make up the country, Dubai is a key financial and trading hub and one of the fastest growing cities in the world. A bustling metropolis of towering skyscrapers, busy ports and popular beaches – where big business takes place alongside sun-seeking tourism – because it is home to more than 200 nationalities including a large expat contingent, Dubai feels very much like a Middle Eastern melting pot, the atmosphere is generally tolerant, and the culture is more progressive.

Characterised by its historic creek, Dubai is divided into two, with Deira in the north and Bur Dubai in the south. New Dubai is the name coined for up-andcoming areas towards the south, including Jumeirah Village, Business Bay and the modern skyscrapers of Downtown Dubai, DIFC and Dubai Marina. And it is here that the free zone of Dubai Multi Commodities Centre (DMCC) has sprung up in recent years, comprising dozens of high-rise towers set amidst lakes, housing hundreds of major multinationals, start-ups and small businesses.

Located within Uptown Tower – the first of two cloud-skimming towers that will crown DMCC’s Uptown Dubai district – slick new hotel and residences SO/ Uptown Dubai made its stylish debut just a few months ago, delivering a slice of avant-garde hospitality to the gleaming new neighbourhood, courtesy of 188 design-led hotel rooms, 227 luxe residences, a sumptuous spa, a cutting-edge gym and a variety of distinctive drinking and dining experiences, all offering breathtaking views of the city’s skyline to a backdrop of Ain Dubai (the world's highest observation wheel) and the sapphire waters of the Arabian Gulf.

A five-star urban resort with a rebellious twist, SO/ Uptown Dubai’s design is closely aligned to art and fashion, with the hotel’s partnerships and programming connecting it with the wider fashion industry and art world, as it supports and hosts existing and emerging talent.

https://so-hotels.com/en/uptown-dubai/

IMAGES: NATELEE COCKS

MAROMA

ALONG THE EASTERN END OF THE YUCATÁN PENINSULA , offering a much more laid-back, relaxed and tranquil vacation experience than Cancun, focusing on nature, eco-tourism and cultural heritage, Riviera Maya boasts year-round tropical weather, gorgeous secluded white sand beaches, unspoilt coral reefs, natural swimming holes and a host of fascinating archaeological sites, not least the coastal ruins of Tulum. Fringed by the Belize Barrier Reef (the world's second largest) and the warm Caribbean Sea also make Riviera Maya perfect for diving, snorkelling and water-based sports. Whilst a year-round destination, the winter months of December through March are the peak dry season. An idyllic, laid-back and somewhat quirky Caribbean destination unlike any other on the peninsula, with warm and welcoming locals, Puerto Morelos is the antidote to Yucatán hot spots like Cancun and Playa del Carmen, and retains some of its quaint original fishing village character. The Puerto Morelos Reef National Park has many offshore dive sites. Turtles breed on the town’s coastal beaches. And its inland freshwater sinkholes - including Cenote Las Mojarras and Cenote Verde Luceroare some of the region’s most beautiful.

Quite possibly Riviera Maya’s most storied hideaway, set amongst 200 acres of lush tropical jungle in Puerto Morelos and fringed by a private stretch of white sand beach, Maroma has been carefully reimagined by Tara Bernerd & Partners honouring Mexican heritage while enhancing the property’s original architecture, since its white stucco buildings are aligned with sacred Mayan geometry.

Channeling effortlessly chic, hacienda-style living in Maroma’s 72 new-look guest rooms, suites and villas, Mayan design, traditions and culture were at the forefront of the remodel, with a blend of local materials, artisanal fabrics and tr aditional craftsmanship liberally used throughout, much of which was lovingly handcrafted in Mexico. Meanwhile, the new relaxed, residential design of Maroma encourages guests to move between the public areas and discover intimate, tuckedaway corners complete with exquisite detailing, and curved lines, organic forms and expansive views of the Caribbean Sea inspire a palpable feeling of being at one with nature.

www.belmond.com

VIRGIN HOTELS NEW YORK

HOME TO SOME SUPERB HOTELS, NOTABLE RESTAURANTS and hip bars, and short for North of Madison Square Park, NoMad is a stylish stopover between Manhattan’s midtown and downtown. But this much-changed New York neighbourhood, which encompasses the bottom part of NYC's infamous Tenderloin District, once had a salubrious past as a notorious red-light district, particularly during New York’s Gilded Age. Founded in the 1600s, elegant brownstones and stately mansions once surrounded Madison Square Park and many historic figures, including Franklin D. Roosevelt and Grover Cleveland, lived in the area. Today, as new developments and high-rises regularly pop up, prospective residents and tourists are flocking to NoMad, not least for its central location and all-round fashionable vibe.

Located at 1227 Broadway and filling an entire city block between 29th Street and 30th Street, the newest hotel from Sir Richard Branson’s luxury

lifestyle hotel brand opened its doors in the spring of 2023 in the heart of booming NoMad, delivering a vibrant yet sophisticated hospitality experience in one of the world’s most exciting cities.

Designed by the Brooklyn-based design team at MARK ZEFF and community-minded architecture firm Stantec, the hotel features 460 guest rooms (known as “chambers"), suites and penthouses spread across 39 storeys, all lit by floor-to-ceiling windows with panoramic views of the cityscape, plus a variety of entertainment-anchored spaces including a huge indoor/outdoor dining and cocktail venue, Everdene, plus a sprawling outdoor Pool Club exclusive to in-house guests.

The hotel also features an impressive art collection comprising more than 100 different works, from the lobby’s playful “Where’s Richard?” mural by Nigel Sussman, to the huge piece "The Sweat of Disco" by artist Joeggu Hossmann, which celebrates the city’s history, icons and party scene.

https://virginhotels.com

Nestled in a natural landscape of 231 hectares of palm, olive and orange trees, lying in the shadow of the snow-capped peaks of the Atlas Mountains, Fairmont Royal Palm is the ultimate oasis of luxury, located only twenty minutes from the vibrant medina of Marrakech.

Whether you are here for a private getaway, family treat, business retreat, fine tuning your Golf swing or exploring the wonders of Marrakesh, Fairmont Royal Palm promises to make you experience the grandest of sensations.

Km 12, Route d’Amizmiz BP 2470 . Marrakech . Morocco

T +212 5 24 48 78 00 - marrakech@fairmont.com www.fairmont.com/marrakech

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STRADOM HOUSE

LOCATED CLOSE TO POLAND’S BORDER WITH THE CZECH Republic, in the south of the country on the River Vistula, Kraków is a charismatic city founded almost a century ago by the mythical Krak.

Poland’s former capital and the seat of its monarchs, in the Middle Ages, Kraków was a major European administration and trade centre and a focus of religion, culture, arts and crafts. Today the city is very much the heart and soul of Poland and is renowned for its well-preserved medieval core, beautiful Jewish quarter and picturesque old town, which is ringed by Planty Park and remnants of the city’s medieval walls. Brimming with a strong sense of history and a plethora of notable buildings, Kraków is understandably Poland's most popular tourist destination and is made for relaxed strolling and sightseeing.

Ideally positioned between the Jewish quarter and buzzing old town, Stradom House opened earlier this year, occupying a former 14th century church and monastery and boasting a storied past. Comprising a 125-room hotel, three restaurants and bars, a holistic spa including an indoor pool, co-working spaces and a private members’ club, the property is very much a modern lifestyle hub located in the very center of Kraków, making it the perfect base from which to explore the city’s rich heritage and cultural happenings.

T he buildings' meticulous and sensitive transformation skillfully fuse modernity and heritage, with frescoes and high ceilings lovingly restored and bold colours and textures added to lend the place a contemporary feel.

Meanwhile, local talent and craftsmanship is evident throughout the hotel, with specially commissioned works by Polish artists, including Przemek Pyszczek, Marcin Janusz and Dorota Buczkowska, adorning the walls of every guest room.

www.stradomhouse.com

ROSEWOOD MUNICH

SO MUCH MORE THAN THE HOME OF OKTOBERFEST, THE

Bavarian capital is a city of untold enjoyable culture. From priceless pieces by Old Masters to works by some of Germany’s most talented young artists, almost every genre is represented in Munich's museums, of which there are dozens, not to mention a wealth of modern art galleries. Then there are the palaces, castles and the city’s imposing royal heritage, for more than 700 years of holding court put their regal mark on Munich. Indeed, the magnificent Schleissheim palace complex, in the north of the city, is considered to be home to the most beautiful Baroque buildings in Germany. And for those venturing beyond Munich t o the mountains, fairytale castles, alpine lakes and untold culture abound.

Steps away from Marienplatz, located within the heart of Munich’s historic old town, a new Rosewood hotel recently opened its elegant doors – the brand’s first in Germany. Spanning two of the city’s meticulously restored buildings – namely the former headquarters of the Bavarian State Bank, and the adjacent Palais Neuhaus-Preysing, which was originally an aristocratic residence – Rosewood Munich deftly encapsulates the essence of Bavarian culture, offering a charming and immersive journey through the city’s baroque period, whilst fostering a renewed appreciation and perspective for its contemporary culture.

Designed with profound regard for Munich’s rich, layered history, whilst regal and architecturally striking outwardly, the hotel’s 73 spacious guest rooms and 59 suites, including five exclusive houses, seamlessly

incorporate contemporary design and modern touches throughout. Whilst the hotel’s culinary offerings include a full-service brasserie, two courtyards, a lobby lounge and a lively bar. And for those seeking the ultimate wellness experience, the hotel is home to Germany’s first Asaya Spa, featuring six treatment rooms, an indoor pool and a well-equipped fitness area. www.rosewoodhotels.com

SIX SENSES ROME

BRIMMING WITH AN INCREDIBLE AMOUNT OF FASCINATING history dating back millennia, Rome is one of the world’s most visited cities, attracting people from all corners of the planet. Known as the Eternal City, for the Italian capital constantly manages to reinvent itself, preserving its impressive monuments and archaeological sites while gently moving forwards into the future, despite the millions who descend on the city annually, Rome’s faded beauty is undoubtedly intensely breathtaking and is only matched by a handful of other cities. A unique mix of ancient and new, boasting thousands of years of continuous history and 14 UNESCO World Heritage sites, Rome is a nothing short of a living metropolitan museum which everyone should see at least once.

Offering something of a green oasis amidst the hustle and bustle of Via del Corso, within the Rome’s historic center, just a few steps away from such iconic landmarks as the Pantheon and Trevi Fountain, Six Senses Rome has introduced a new LEVEL of sustainable and wellness-focused hospitality in a downtown setting.

Blending centuries of history with up-to-date modernity, the hotel is housed within Palazzo Salviati Cesi Mellini, which is an intensely historical building dating back to the 15th century. When the hotel was created, the façade of neighbouring church San Marcello al Corso, a fine example of Italian Baroque, also underwent major renovation works, representing Six Senses Rome’s first sustainability project and commitment to the local community.

Inside, 96 airy, refined and cosy guest rooms and suites boast sunfilled terraces, high ceilings and historic bay windows, while the decor featured patterns and graphic elements, staying true to the brand’s love of authenticity.

Onsite dining options include a trendy restaurant-caf é -bar on the ground floor that serves modern Italian cuisine out of a buzzing open kitchen. And a spectacular rooftop specialising in tempting bites and creative cocktails, surrounded by unparalleled 360-degree panoramic views, with an abundance of terracotta pots and aromatic plants offers a secret garden escape unlike anywhere else in Rome, whether for sunrise yoga or sunset aperitivo. www.sixsenses.com

RENAISSANCE PORTO LAPA HOTEL

WHILST NOT AS WALKABLE AS LISBON BECAUSE IT IS PRETTY hilly, stretched along the Douro River and boasting a fascinating history, plenty of culture and stunning architecture at every turn, Porto offers an authentic Portuguese metropolitan experience and is worth visiting at any time of the year.

Aside for being famous for its production of port, the city’s people are warm, generous and easy-going; the historic center of the old town is incredibly charming; grand architectural monuments date back to the Middle Ages; and Porto is a culinary aficionado’s dream, since it is home to some of northern Portugal’s finest restaurants and wine bars. Whether walking its cobblestone lanes as the sun sets or seeking out the latest street art painted on Miragaia's walls, Porto is a characterful city best explored with no fixed agenda. Simply wander aimlessly and enjoy.

Perched on Lapa's hills in the heart of one of Porto’s most historic and dynamic neighbourhoods, the new Renaissance Porto Lapa Hotel offers panoramic views of the city's skyline and is just moments away from the iconic Lapa Church, plus numerous other landmarks including Casa da Música and Clérigos Tower.

Conceived as an 'Art House in The Park’ and anchored by the brand’s theatrical design concept, the hotel is dressed in pastel pinks and champagne golds with hints of petrol blue, houses 163 guest rooms and suites featuring walnut furnishings and floor-to-ceiling windows, and was

designed by local firm Visioarq Arquitectos and interior designers Broadway Malyan to pay homage to the river running through the city.

Interiors feature vintage Portuguese tiles, which have been used in Porto for centuries. Adorning the walls are original pieces by a variety of artists, including a mosaic installation by Pedrita Studio, a painting by Isabel Mello, and a unique piece fashioned from corrugated iron and neon lights by Berlin-based artist Clemens Behr. And active travellers will find a sizeable outdoor heated infinity pool and a state-of-the-art Technogym-equipped fitness centre on the hotel's top floor. www.marriott.com

Porto

THE INN AT MATTEI’S TAVERN

A PICTURE-PERFECT COUNTRY TOWN IN THE NORTHEAST

part of Santa Ynez Valley, dating back almost 150 years to when a stagecoach route began to pass through, Los Olivos is a rural agricultural community with an emphasis on growing grapes and making wine. Boasting expansive views of Santa Barbara County's vineyards and horse ranches, Californian history melds with modern-day tasting rooms while art galleries, upscale restaurants, antique shops and designer boutiques cater to well-to-do locals and upwardly mobile visitors alike, and there is a myriad of things to do as long as you’re a wine drinker! Still standing today, the town’s most historical landmark, Mattei’s Tavern, was built to house and feed stagecoach passengers.

Set on just over six acres opposite the original Los Olivos staging post, surrounded by vineyards and olive groves, The Inn at Mattei’s Tavern has welcomed guests since the late 1880s, when the first pioneers began settling in this sun-drenched, mountain-fringed valley, which boasts a. year-round, Medit erranean-like climate

Witness to changing times, from the stagecoach era through to the introduction of railroads and automobiles, The Inn has thrived with dedicated stewards at its helm. Today, A uberge Resorts Collection is now its custodian, and has ushered in a new era in the evolution of this one-of-a-kind property, complete with luxurious new lodgings, a state-ofthe-art spa, bespoke guest experiences and destination dining venues, while maintaining the soul and generosity of spirit that founder Felix Mattei bestowed upon the property when it first debuted in the 1800s.

https://aubergeresorts.com

BARCELÓ FUNCHAL OLDTOWN

SITUATED IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC OCEAN AND PART OF Portugal, the beautiful archipelago of Madeira comprises two inhabited islands, Madeira and Porto Santo, and two uninhabited groups, the Desertas and the Selvagens. Of volcanic origins and hence offering spectacular scenery, wonderful beaches and quaint villages, Madeira has been named Europe’s leading island destination numerous times and it is not hard to see why, with its nature reserves, high peaks, excellent food and vibrant culture attracting globetrotters back again and again.

The archipelago’s capital, Funchal is known for its bustling harbour, stunning botanical gardens, contemporary art museum set within a 17th century fortress, and Madeira wine cellars, all set to a hilly backdrop. Picturesque, charismatic and oozing culture and architectural heritage, Funchal is the life and soul of the islands.

Taking inspiration from the UNESCO World Heritage site of Laurisilva Forest, not to mention Madeiran architecture and craftsmanship, Barceló Funchal Oldtown is a new five-star hotel which has been fashioned from a cluster of 17th cen tury buildings that have been sensitively transformed, absorbing their rich cultural history into its DNA in the process. The result is a playful and stylish hotel rooted in its sense of place, and a sleek and comfortable base from which to explore the island’s many treasures.

Throughout the hotel, vast windows and a number of hanging gardens bring the outside in, and natural colours and textures have been woven into the design to nod to the surrounding landscape. And crowning Barceló Funchal Oldtown, a roof terrace complete with plunge pool and bar offers panoramic sea views across the marina and is the perfect spot for sundowners.

www.barcelo.com

CAPELLA SYDNEY

SPECTACULARLY LAID OUT AROUND its glorious natural harbour, Sydney is Australia’s crown jewel and one of the most recognised cities on the planet. Synonymous with its iconic opera house, famous harbour bridge and plethora of beaches, it’s a destination that people never forget and is on the bucket list of untold travellers, its location on the other side of the world being the only reason more haven’t yet visited. Explore historic streets, world-class museums and beautiful period architecture; shop in street markets, designer shops and one-off boutiques; sunbathe on kilometres of golden sand, surf on the Pacific Ocean, and feast on the freshest seafood. There is something for everyone in Sydney.

After a painstaking seven-year restoration, occupying an entire city block in the city’s prestigious Sandstone Precinct, just moments from Circular Quay, the opera house and the harbour, leading luxury hotel brand Capella recently opened in Sydney.

Housed within the former Department of Education building, which was designed in the 1900s by celebrated Scottish-Australian city architect George McRae, the hotel comprises 192 beautifully appointed guest rooms and suites arranged across nine levels. Representing the epitome of hospitality luxury, all are replete with luxe textiles, standalone tubs and Italian Frette linen; are decorated in a custom colour palette; and feature a bespoke collection of sustainable, vegan in-room amenities designed in partnership with Haeckels.

Guests enter the hotel via the Farrer Place lobby where the arrival experience is heightened by the integration of acquired and specially commissioned art, which forms part of a large collection liberally distributed throughout the property. The ground-floor pieces include works by Australian artists Judy Watson, Otis Hope Carey, Elise Cakebread and Georgia Bisley, culminating in a large robotic light installation by Dutch art duo DRIFT, which is suspended in the hotel’s central gathering space.

The voluminous original courtyard of the old building is now a plush lounge area, known as Aperture, from which all of the hotel’s facilities are accessed. These include Brasserie 1930 and McRae Bar, both of which feature cuisine courtesy of The Bentley Group. Meanwhile on level six, guests indulge in rejuvenating treatments at Auriga Spa or swim in the 20-metre heated indoor pool, which, combined with a 24-hour fitness centre, provide the ultimate urban retreat in the heart of the city.

https://capellahotels.com

disconnect from the world in sri lanka’s last natural frontier WIN

SPEND FOUR DAYS AND NIGHTS AT GAL OYA LODGE – INCLUDING ALL MEALS FOR TWO PEOPLE – AND ENJOY A ONE-OF-A-KIND, DOWN-TO-EARTH WILDERNESS EXPERIENCE IN THE HEART OF SRI LANKA’S MOST STUNNING NATIONAL PARK. INCLUDED IN THE PRIZE IS A BOAT SAFARI FOR TWO PEOPLE ON SRI LANKA’S LARGEST LAKE

PRIZE DRAW

A WONDERLAND FOR nature lovers – boasting countless beaches with legendary surf to dense jungle and hilltop tea plantations –the island nation of Sri Lanka packs a lot of punch when it comes to cultural and environmental diversity.

Located off the tourist trail in Sri Lanka’s densely forested eastern hinterland, remote Gal Oya National Park is an untamed natural habitat; was one of Sri Lanka’s last unspoilt frontiers to open up to visitors, and is today something of a national treasure.

Carved out of thick tropical vegetation and mountainous terrain, Gal Oya Lodge’s ten sustainably constructed bungalows, spread across 20 acres of private jungle, make it possible to be immersed in the park’s unspoilt nature whilst being enclosed by the stunning freshwater and savannah-dominated habitat surrounding it. For those for whom spending a few days in the untouched wilderness is paradise, Gal Oya Lodge is undoubtedly the perfect place to disconnect from the world. www.galoyalodge.com

Udaipur City Palace

UDAIPUR

city of valour and devotion

HONOUR, RELIGION AND ROMANCE ENTWINE WITHIN THE ANCIENT WALLS OF UDAIPUR, WHERE THE RULERS OF MEWAR BUILT CASTLES IN THE SKY.  JOSEPH MORTIMER FINDS MOMENTS OF CALM IN A CITY THAT WEARS ITS HISTORY ON ITS SLEEVE PHOTOGRAPHY BY

ARYAN KHAN

THE LEADEN SKIES ABOVE LAKE Pichola finally burst, drenching the world in a furious torrent. Plump raindrops pummel the flagstones of Gangaur Ghat, rinsing away the clouds of crimson gulal powder and saffron-coloured petals scattered during the morning’s festivities. Bright saris and flip-flopped tourists scramble in all directions, covered doorways and the grand arches of Bagore Ki Haveli providing temporary shelter from the apocalyptic downpour. Udaipur, the City of Lakes, is purified once more.

LIKE

ITS FABLED

PALACES, ANCIENT HINDU

temples and sprawling fortifications, Udaipur itself is a monument shaped by layer upon layer of history, expanded by generations of obsessive Maharanas in an era when existential wars were fought for love and pride. The city was founded by Udar Singh II in the 16th century having fled the destruction wrought upon Chittorgarh Fort, former capital of the Kingdom of Mewar, by Mughal armies. A chance encounter with a hermit during a hunting expedition led to the spot where Udaipur was founded on the shores of Lake Pichola.

CRADLED BY THE IMPOSING PEAKS OF THE Aravalli Ranges, which separate southern Rajasthan from the great Thar Desert in the northwest, the fertile Udaipur valley was the perfect place to start anew. Today, the seven lakes that surround the city form a network of waterways fed by the Ahar River, shaped over the centuries to irrigate farmlands and provide fresh drinking water for the growing population. Pichola and its neighbour, Fateh Sagar Lake, provide a contemplative counterpoint to the throng of the walled city. Shrouded in mist, still as glass or whipped into a maelstrom by monsoon rains, the lakes provide space to breathe, a reprieve from the tumult of modern India.

Udaipur

like its fabled palaces, ancient hindu temples and sprawling fortifications, udaipur itself is a monument shaped by layer upon layer of history

Udaipur City Palace

Udaipur City Palace

THE SEETHING SEA OF HUMANITY THAT SURGES through the streets – the clamorous processions that erupt day and night, the relentless tide of motorbikes, scooters, bicycles and rickshaws and the mounds of colourful spices and exotic vegetables piled up in market stalls around Hathi Pol Bazaar, inches from busy roads – flows to the backdrop of towering temples and imposing palaces hewn into hillsides or afloat in its lakes; the age-old foundations of present-day Udaipur.

THE CITY’S HISTORY SEEMS SO VAST AND proud, trying to unravel it in a few days seems an insurmountable challenge. The task of doing so falls to Nishant Jethi, an Udaipur-born Rajput guide whose family has served the royal court of Udaipur for four centuries. Rajput warrior clans traditionally offered their swords in service of the Kingdom of Mewar and fought with great valour and prestige. I am, it seems, in good hands.

OUR FELLOWSHIP BEGINS IN SAHELIYON KI BARI, the Garden of the Maidens, a tropical oasis of shaded courtyards, lotus ponds and marble pavilions draped in bougainvillea. Built by Maharana Sangram Singh II as a gift for his young bride and her 48 maidens in 1710, the gardens became a private haven for the royal ladies of Mewar, who sought solace from the drama of the court in quiet contemplation or riotous celebrations. A marble menagerie of elephants and birds make up some of the 2,000 gravity-fed fountains whose waterspouts leap across the gardens, providing an artistic backdrop to Mewari dances like Ghoomar and Dharohar

Udaipur City Palace

Udaipur City Palace

FOUR CENTURIES OF ROYAL RESIDENCE

If the gardens represent a reprieve from urban life, Udaipur City Palace is its very heart: the home, fortress and seat of power for the rulers of Mewar. The first stones were laid in 1559 on the hilly shore of Lake Pichola and six kilometres of defensive walls were hastily built around the new city to deter marauding Mughal armies. Loyal Rajput soldiers were dispatched to guard a secondary line of defensive walls strung between the mountain passes of the Aravalli peaks. In the long history of Mewar, Udaipur is the only city never

to have fallen to the Mughals, and nearly 400 summers passed before Indian independence in 1947 brought an end to the Kingdom of Mewar, which was absorbed into the newly formed State of Rajasthan.

IT WAS HERE IN THE CITY PALACE THAT THE noble panther Bagheera was born in Rudyard Kipling’s The Second Jungle Book, and it was within these walls that the great drama of palace life played out. Surrounded by impenetrable ramparts, the formidable citadel is a lattice of 11 palaces entwined with colonnaded corridors, domed chambers, royal temples and balconies, reflecting a melange of Mewari and Mughal architectural styles.

Saheliyon Ki Bari

Weave memories that echo of love and its celebration, set against the majestic enchantment of our grand palace.

Eternalise your promise of togetherness amidst the timeless settings of Fairmont Jaipur, making your wedding the most glorious affair.

To explore more, connect with us at jai.reservations@fairmont.com or +91 142 642 0000

Gangaur Ghat

gangaur ghat and nearby ambrai ghat are stages on which daily life unfolds from dawn to dusk

Saas-Bahu Temple

Badi Pol and the magnificent three-arched Tripolia Gate form the primary entrance, flanked by two watchtowers where drums sounded the comings and goings of the Maharana and gongs marked the passage of time.Manek Chowk is the first of many palace courtyards, each more lovely then the last. Here, overlooked by wooden jharokha balconies — the architectural device found across Rajasthan that permitted ladies of the court to look down on public gatherings without being seen — elephants and lions would do battle in great bloody spectacles while visitors awaited an audience with the Maharana.

BLEACHED BY TIME AND THE ELEMENTS, THE great walls still evoke a sense of what it must have been like in its heyday, each courtyard aglow in the light of flickering torches and candles, reflecting from alcoves and ceilings inlaid with precious stones and mirrors. I wander through a labyrinth of corridors that reveal a carousel of wonders: the Rai Aangan (Royal Courtyard), where the 76 Maharanas of Mewar were crowned; the kaleidoscopic mirrored snug of Kanch Ki Burj; the 104 marble pillars and medicinal neem trees of Badi Mahal courtyard; and the Dutch and Oriental tiles and coloured glass of Chini-ki Chitrasala, where awe-struck visitors were entertained. Here, an elevate balcony frames views of Lake Pichola’s treasures: Jag Mandir (Lake Island Palace) where the young Prince Khurram, who would

Ahar Cenotaphs

Saas-Bahu Temple

go on to become Emperor Shah Jahan, builder of the Taj Mahal, sought sanctuary from his Mughal brethren; and Jag Niwas (Lake Palace), which 007 fans will recognise as the lair of Bond-villain Octopussy, now a luxury hotel.

THE PALACE JOURNEY THROUGH TIME LEADS us to Mor Chowk, an intimate nook where three mosaics depict peacocks in summer, winter and monsoon seasons, overlooked by an exquisite balcony. Next door, the mesmerising green glass and mirrored dining room of Manak Mahal is equalled only by the dusty Wedgewood walls of Bhim Vilas, the impossibly photogenic Blue Room.

IN ONE CHAMBER, NISHANT POINTS OUT A photograph of his great-grandfather, Chatur Bhuj Jethi, standing at the shoulder of the wheelchair bound Maharana Bhopal Singh during a hunting trip; his personal bodyguard, never far from his side. The chamber was specially adapted with a secret elevator for the young Maharana, who ruled for 25 years and preceded over the transition from British rule to Indian independence. No one but the Maharana could enter Zenana Mahal (Queens Palace) the private domain of his wife, Rajmata, a devotee of Lord Krishna whose Laxmi Chowk courtyard now provides a stage for elaborate weddings.

LOVE AND THE ART OF DEVOTION

Long before Udaipur was founded, the town of Nagda 23 kilometres away was the capital of the Mewar Kingdom. Of all the temples built to honour the Hindu gods, the early 11th century Saas-Bahu is perhaps the most lovely, an artistic masterpiece built by Mahipala of Kachchhwaha as an ode to feminine beauty.

THE TWO MAIN TEMPLES, SAAS (MOTHER-IN-LAW) and Bahu (daughter-in-law), are encased in intricately moulded stone depicting scenes of from the Hindu epic Ramayana, in which ancient wisdom is revealed in artistic allegory. The entire pantheon of gods are rendered in incredible detail — Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva in their many forms — as well as floral displays and garlands, courtly scenes and many female characters in dance or repose. Though the reliefs are still clear, many bear scars inflicted by rampaging armies and, more recently, careless visitors.

ONE MUST TRAVEL BACK IN TIME FURTHER STILL to trace the history of Shri Ekling Ji temple, where we join hundreds of devoted visitors queuing on a Monday morning. Built in the 8th century, Eklingji is one of the 108 names of Lord Shiva, whose devotees stationed a bronze statue of his bull, Nandi, to guard the entrance of the towering marble and granite temple. Today, it is uniformed guards that protect

Shiva’s modesty, strictly enforcing a no photography rule among the teeming multitudes of pilgrims elbowing their way forwards for a glimpse of the four-faced black marble Shiva and the blessings he will impart.

ON THE ROAD BACK TO UDAIPUR, AN UNSCHEDULED stop reveals that the Mewari adulation of women didn’t come without a cost. Hundreds of onion-domed temples commemorate the kings of Mewar at the Ahar Cenotaphs, a marble city of more than 350 resplendent pagodas. Of the 19 chhatris built for the Maharanas cremated on the site, the 1734 monument to Sangram Singh II stands out as the grandest. And the most gruesome. When the flames of the funeral pyre had consumed Sangram Singh, all 21 of his wives threw themselves on top, a horrific ritual known as sati that was widely practiced by Hindu women as an act of devotion, until it was finally abolished in 1892.

PANTHERS ROAM THE STEEP HILLSIDES

surrounding Sajjan Garh Palace, a mountain hideaway built by Maharana Sajjan Singh so he could watch the approaching rains and study the night sky. The young ruler, famed for his courtly reforms, love of arts and protection of Mewari heritage, died aged 25, but his successors added their own touches to the mountain-top hideaway, which became a royal hunting lodge and retreat during seasonal rains, lending it the name Monsoon Palace.

the sound of drums and excited fervour fill the air, and across the water, ancient havelis are illuminated

by shimmering lanterns

TODAY, THE WHITE MARBLE WALLS, TOWERING pillars and grand archways support jharokha windows and viewing balconies that frame the romance of the city; a scenic setting from which to watch the sun sink behind the Aravalli Hills as it paints the skies lilac and turns Udaipur into a dusky lavender watercolour that twinkles in the twilight.

AS NIGHT DESCENDS, UDAIPUR COMES ALIVE with the sounds of celebration. Tinny music scrapes from loudspeakers and temples are illuminated in fairy lights. On Gangaur Ghat, a crowd in crimson and saffron gather round as men shoulder a palanquin bearing a bejewelled Lord Shiva and the Goddess Parvati, while others wheel petal-covered ox carts onto the flagstones.

NAMED FOR THE HINDU FESTIVAL OF GANGAUR — a celebration of marital bliss based around worship of the goddess Gauri (Padvati) the wife of Lord Shiva

Both photos: Gangaur Ghat at night

Udaipur

— Gangaur Ghat and nearby Ambrai Ghat are stages on which daily life unfolds from dawn to dusk, as locals come to bathe and gossip. But tonight, it’s a different scene. The sound of drums and excited fervour fill the air, and across the water, ancient havelis are illuminated by shimmering lanterns, amber pearls in the gloaming.

WE ARRIVE IN TIME TO CATCH THE TAIL-END OF Jal Jhulni Ekadashi, a Hindu festival that falls each year on the eleventh day of the month of Bhadrapad. Earlier in the day, the idols were ceremoniously removed from their home in Jagdish Temple and paraded down to Gangaur Ghat to bathe in the waters of Lake Pichola. Cleansed, adored and strung with garlands, the husband and wife deities will pass through the magnificent decorative archways of Bagore-ki-Haveli and return to the old city, past numberless shops selling antiques, textiles and traditional Mewari miniature paintings, and up to the magnificent dome of Jagdish Temple, where two marble elephants have stood guard since 1651.

IT’S A SCENE THAT HAS PLAYED OUT UNCHANGED in Udaipur for hundreds of years, a spectacle of religious devotion set to the backdrop of grand temples and resplendent palaces that reflect the honour and might of Mewar; a kingdom of warriors and lovers, artisans and dreamers, whose memory lives on through wondrous deeds, steadfast strongholds and the indomitable spirit of the Rajput.

Lake Pichola and Udaipur City Palace

RAFFLES UDAIPUR

UDAI SAGAR LAKE, UDAIPUR

THE JOURNEY TO RAFFLES UDAIPUR IS A VOYAGE INTO THE romance of Rajputana. From the shore of Udai Sagar – one of Udaipur’s seven great lakes – an electric boat floats silently across still waters, accompanied by green bee-eaters and statuesque cormorant. On a 21-acre island in the centre of the lake, a grand palace appears, surrounded by the misty peaks of the Aravalli Range.

The formidable building marries the architectural styles of the Mewar and Mughal kingdoms, but the marble columns, Palladian gateways, sprawling gardens and many-tiered fountains reflect a medley of European styles; the imaginings perhaps of a well-travelled merchant returned home to build his country mansion, according to general manager, Rajesh Namby.

Stepping through a flutter of rose petals, guests enter the Great Hall – a sensory sea of marble floors, handwoven rugs, silk upholstery and freshcut flowers – beneath a magnificent chandelier and towering paintings of Udaipur valley. Sip on a fruity welcome cocktail as you soak it all in and peek into the Writers’ Bar, where snug seating beneath stacked bookshelves provide a scholarly setting for afternoon tea or cocktails.

West-facing Raffles Oasis Suites look out onto private tropical gardens with plunge pools and cabanas, the latter making for an enchanting spot for morning coffee, as parakeets screech overhead and mynas dart in and out of treetops. Wooden ceiling fans, mother-of-pearl inlaid furniture, brass lamps and woven rugs play into the country estate ambiance, while a bucolic jungle scene covering an entire wall of the oversized bathroom

plants the suite firmly in India. But perhaps the greatest asset of this island retreat is the butler team, led by head butler Nirmal Kumar Singh, who consistently anticipates guests’ needs and for whom no request is too great.

Start the day like the lord of the manor with breakfast at Raffles Patisserie or The Dining Room – a glorious al fresco dining area, where views of the Aravalli peaks are framed by marble columns and giant sphinxes adorned with Indian bindi

Ancient recipes from across Rajputana are reimagined in Sawai Kitchen and jars of spices are lined up in glass apothecary cabinets in Rasoi, where chef’s table dining experiences showcase culinary styles from across North India.

It wouldn’t be Raffles without an Udaipur twist on the Singapore Sling in the signature Long Bar, where guava, rose, oleo-saccharum and laalmaas bitters give a punchy local flavour to the legendary cocktail.

A stroll through the expansive gardens reveals an encyclopaedia of tropical plants and trees, dotted with private dining pavilions and intimate corners. Make time for Raffles Spa – a marble sanctuary where Ayurveda-inspired treatments leave you in a dreamlike state – or treat mind and body to early morning yoga, or a sunrise hike to a 400-year-old temple overlooking Udai Sagar Lake. Both are the perfect cleansing ritual to start a fresh day in Udaipur.

JOSEPH MORTIMER

www.r affles.com/udaipur

ISLAND OF HAWAI'I HAWAII, UNITED STATES

the quintessential volcano island

THE YOUNGEST AND LARGEST IN THE HAWAIIAN ARCHIPELAGO SAMANTHA HENDERSON VISITS “THE BIG ISLAND”, HOME TO BOTH THE MOST ACTIVE VOLCANO AND THE TALLEST SEA MOUNTAIN IN THE WORLD

Hilo Wailuku River State Park

WITH A TOTAL SURFACE area nearly twice as large as all of the other islands in the Hawaiian Archipelago combined – its massive size lending itself to an array of geological features and an incredible diversity of landscapes and climates – the Island of Hawai’i is considered by many to be an unparalleled expression of the sheer power of Mother Nature.

FROM THE DRAMATIC VOLCANIC LANDSCAPES at Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park to the snowcapped heights of Maunakea; from the lush valleys and cascading waterfalls of the Hāmākua coast to the jet-black sands of Punalu’u Beach, if you are moved by beautiful and otherworldly unspoilt landscapes, ‘The Big Island’ will be an environmental heaven for you. Add to this snorkeling, whale watching and diving with turtles and manta rays and you have the makings of an unforgettable vacation,

Pōhue Bay

whether you are a spirited traveller or a family holidaying together, as we are when we fly into the east coast town of Hilo to begin our Hawaiian adventure. Everywhere worth visiting can be accessed just easily from Kona International at Keāhole, close to the town of Kailua-Kona, which is the busiest airport on the Island of Hawai’i. The biggest attraction to landing at Hilo is its proximity to the island’s volcanoes park, which is just 50 kilometres from the airport.

FOUNDED IN 1916 AND EXTENDING FROM SEA level to some 350 metres, Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park encompasses the summits of two of the world's most active volcanoes. Towering Mauna Loa is the largest active volcano on our planet and first

erupted in 1984. It last erupted, for about 12 days, in November 2022. Mauna Loa sits next to Hawaii's youngest and most active volcano, Kīlauea, which began erupting in 1983 and last erupted earlier this year, sending fountains of lava almost 150 metres into the air. Whilst the two volcanoes’ location in the national park puts them at a safe distance from residents and visitors, volcanic smog – a mixture of sulfur dioxide and other volcanic gases – can pose a health risk to people with respiratory issues, and the smog can be carried by winds across large distances.

Even when an eruption is not occurring, occasionally gas levels in the park reach dangerously high levels, resulting in rangers restricting road access. Restrictions can last for up to 24-hours, so it’s

best to check the park's website before planning your visit. https://nps.gov/havo/index.htm

LIKE US, YOU WILL PROBABLY WANT TO spend two or three days around the volcanoes, not least because the scenery is simply spectacular. We occupy the first day at the Kīlauea Visitor Centre, before driving the somewhat winding Chain of Craters Road, through the East Rift and coastal area of the park, past active thermal sites and across countless lava fields steeply descending to the sea, towards the place where lava flows into the ocean. We return back to base early evening, to watch the sunset and view the bubbling main crater, from the deck of Jaggar Museum, barely 1.5

kilometres from Kīlauea. Sadly, since we visited, Jaggar Museum was irreparably damaged during a subsequent eruption and summit collapse and will soon be demolished. But access to the viewing area at Uēkahuna, adjacent to the former museum, is being repaired and restored.

TO STAY JUST A SHORT WALK FROM KĪLAUEA’S visitor centre, Volcano House has hosted guests since 1846. Deeply rooted in Hawaiian culture and hospitality, the hotel offers a simple, warm and authentic stay experience, including a pretty decent restaurant for an evening meal, and Deluxe Volcano Crater View rooms offer spectacular views of the Kīlauea caldera. https://hawaiivolcanohouse.com

OUR THIRD DAY BEGINS AROUND NOON WHEN we set out for Kalapana, the closest town to Kīlauea’s lava ocean entry point at Kamukona. En route, we make a pit stop at Tin Shack Bakery in Pahoa for a hearty breakfast cum brunch. @TinShackBakery

Most afternoons in Kalapana are lively, with market stalls selling food, drinks, arts and crafts. The best and quickest way into the ocean entry viewpoint area is on a mountain bike, which can be hired in Kalapana. Alternatively, you can hike the four miles each way, in which case you need to set off midafternoon – across the barren lava plains – equipped with head torches and water.

Where the lava flow enters the ocean is a truly incredible sight, complete with towering plumes of hydrogen chloride and vivid orange-red rivers of light. Thanks to lava entering the ocean, more than 100 hectares of new land has already been added to Hawai’i’s land mass, so the island is continuously, albeit slowly, growing in size.

Whilst there, chill out on the rocks, watch the sunset and observe the entry point by night. It’s an incredible sight. After dark, journey back under a sea of glistening stars, which will give you time to

appreciate that a village used to exist before molten magma overtook the place. You will see that a few entrepreneurs have built houses on stilts above Kīlauea’s solidified lava fields.

BEING IN ONE OF THE WORLD’S MOST naturally geologically diverse places, after days of volcanic sightseeing, it’s quite normal to chill out and relax on the island’s beaches, although even these are somewhat different.

Punalu’u Black Sand Beach was formed when lava flowing into the ocean exploded as it hit the water, cooled rapidly and was shattered into tiny particles by crashing waves. The water lapping the beach is cool, largely because a freshwater vent emerges directly into the left side of the bay, mixing with the warmer sea water. The black sand is soothingly warm, palmfringed and there is a magnificent freshwater lily pond fronting the beach, which you might be lucky to catch in bloom. But the beach’s main attraction is the Hawaiian Green Sea Turtles feeding, resting and nest there. Equipped with snorkeling gear, it’s possible to dive with the turtles, near to the shore, and see them up-close-and-personal.

Kealakekua Bay

Papakōlea Beach

Kilauea Iki-Trail

ON THE WAY TO PUNALU’U AND JUST OFF the road, we stop for a quick tour of the local coffee mill at Pāhala. As well as great tasting fresh coffee, the wasabi macadamias and macadamia nut brittle are divine! https://kaucoffeemill.com Five kilometres along the road, we find Punalu'u Bake Shop, which is famed for its delicately sweet and moist Hawaiian sweetbread, as well as moreish doughnuts. www.bakeshophawaii.com

PAPAKŌLEA BEACH IS ONE OF ONLY FOUR green sand beaches on Earth, its rare olivine sands created by a volcanic cinder cone. Located at the southern tip of the island, driving to the beach is the same from either Hilo or Kailua-Kona. You can either hike the final 3 kilometres or pay USD 10 for a ride in the back of a

4WD vehicle, since the land is government owned and visitors must use approved transport. On arrival at the beach, whilst you will need to negotiate a steep climb down, via a locally built wooden ladder, you’ll be rewarded with a wonderful swim in the clean, cool ocean.

A 15-minute drive from Papakōlea, Ka Lae is the southern-most point of the United States. Also known as South Point, if you’re an adrenalin junkie, a short walk west of the viewpoint is purportedly one of the best cliff-jumping points in the world. Just be sure to have someone with you if you plan to take the plunge!

For a cold beer and some tasty fare at the end of the day, South Side Shaka Restaurant in nearby Nā’ālehu is set within America’s most southernmost village community. The food is good and the portions are generous. www.shakarestaurant.com

HAWAI’I BOASTS EASY ACCESS SNORKELING pretty much all around the island’s coastline. Near Hilo at Ahalanui is a volcanically heated pool and one of the best family beaches on the east side of the island. Just 15 minutes on and you’ll find the calm Kapoho Tide Pools which are a fantastic place to snorkel. Halfway to Kailua-Kona and edged in lava rock, Two Steps Bay is abundant with sea life and healthy coral, with some remarkable topography to explore at a variety of depths. Swim a little way out into this safe and protected bay, and you may meet a pod of spinner dolphins, like we did.

A MONUMENT NOW MARKS THE SPOT WHERE Captain Cook – thought to be the first westerner to set sight on the Hawaiian Islands – died at Kealakekua Bay in 1779. This location has it all for snorkelling enthusiasts: coral, fish and crystal-clear waters. It’s a bit of a mission to reach, since the area is inaccessible by road, but well worth the effort if you do, and also the ideal place for a spot of kayaking. Whilst in the area, you must drop into Da Poke Shack and sample some of the local specialty, known as “poke”, which is traditionally made with ahi tuna, sweet onion, seaweed, and a homemade poke sauce of shoyu and sesame oil. www.dapokeshack.com

SYNONYMOUS WITH THE VOLCANOES THAT once bubbled up from the ocean floor and created every island in the archipelago, any amount of time spent on the Island of Hawai'i – whether volcano watching, sightseeing, hiking, swimming or simply eating and drinking – will undoubtedly imbue you with a sense of its incredibly diverse and accessible nature, whilst leaving you charmed with a warm and cosy feeling that is not really 'big island' at all.

Hawaiian Green Sea Turtles

a timeless south african grand dame

THE OYSTER BOX DURBAN, SOUTH AFRICA

STEEPED IN HISTORY, EXUDING THE COLONIAL CHARM OF A BYGONE ERA AND CHANNELING HOLLYWOOD GLAMOUR, NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU CHECKS INTO ONE OF THE CONTINENT'S MOST CHERISHED HOTELS

AN ECLECTIC FUSION OF cultures and architectural styles that juxtapose old with new, Durban is a vibrant city, sprawled along South Africa’s east coast, that’s blessed with a year-round subtropical climate, hot summers and pleasantly warm and dry winters. The nation's third largest metropolis behind Johannesburg and Cape Town, located on a wide Indian Ocean bay, Durban is also South Africa’s chief seaport and has been the bustling hub of KwaZulu-Natal province commerce for almost two centuries.

SOME 15 KILOMETRES UP THE COAST FROM Durban’s central business district, more than 150 years ago, uMhlanga Rocks was a sleepy seaside village that was originally part of Sir Marshall Campbell's vast 400-acre sugar plantation. On the edge of the plantation overlooking the sea, timber beach cottage ‘The Oyster Lodge’ was erected in 1863, before the town had even been founded. The cottage was topped with a reflective roof to alert passing ships to navigate around uMhlanga's rocky headland. More than eight decades later, the cottage was turned into a restaurant and gardens.

A FEW YEARS AFTER UMHLANGA'S landmark red and white lighthouse was built in the early 1950s, The Oyster Box Hotel opened right next to it. Since then, the hotel has played host to countless travellers seeking respite and indulgence, and has been lovingly transformed over the years into a luxury resort by the Tollman family, which recognised long ago the potential of the stunning coastline upon which the hotel is perched.

FAR FROM BEING A VILLAGE NOW, THE Oyster Box is today located at the heart of the prestigious coastal suburb of uMhlanga, which is renowned countrywide for its luxurious high-end homes and desirable seaside lifestyle. Residents and visitors alike can explore a variety of nature reserves nearby, including The Hawaan Forest and uMhlanga Lagoon Nature Reserve, not to mention the oldest game reserve in Africa, Hluhluwe-Imfolozi. Covering 960 square kilometres of hilly grassland in the heart of Zululand, a few hours’ drive north of Durban, Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park is renowned for its rich wildlife and conservation efforts.

STANDING AS A TESTAMENT TO TIMELESS elegance – having grown from a humble cottage into a South African hospitality icon – The Oyster Box has literally witnessed the unfolding of Durban’s history all around it, whilst meanwhile retaining its own unique allure. Indeed, when I mention The Oyster Box to South African friends, the hotel’s name immediately provokes warmth and affection, particularly in those who have stayed and enjoyed “incredible service”.

Lobby

As I am whisked from the airport in a red Range Rover to check in for a few days, it soon becomes apparent why the hotel is renowned for warm and genuine hospitality, and has won countless accolades over the years, including being named South Africa's leading luxury hotel multiple times.

GREETED BY GRACIOUS LIVERIED

doormen sporting pith helmets, my arrival is swift and seamless, and it is evident from the get-go that nothing is too much trouble for the 500 friendly staff presiding over 86 individuallydesigned rooms and suites, furnished with meticulous attention to detail by Toni Tollman, daughter of Red Carnation Hotels’ founder, Beatrice, who had her first dinner date with husband-to-be Stanley at The Oyster Box 70 years earlier.

AKIN TO STEPPING ONTO THE SET OF A golden era Hollywood movie, every delightful nook and cranny of the hotel’s charismatic lobby boasts a preserved architectural detail, a beautiful antique, a notable work of art, a tasteful embellishment or a theatrical touch, and is palpably sprinkled with a sense of glamour.

AS I WALK TOWARDS MY LODGINGS – PAST the stylish Palm Court, hung with opulent antique chandeliers hailing from London’s Savoy – splendid art quite literally stops me in my tracks, more than once. Something of a love letter to the creativity of KwaZulu-Natal, the hotel’s collection, featuring more than 100 pieces, brings together a variety of work by a dozen South African artists and deftly illustrates for guests the province’s distinctive culture.

The Palm Court

Garden pool

HOSPITALITY ICON

MY WELL-DRESSED AND INORDINATELY

comfortable Deluxe Sea Facing Suite provides heaps of space to lounge and slumber, features embroidered textiles, vintage furnishings and an oversized bed, and opens onto a spacious private terrace with its own plunge pool complete with dreamy Indian Ocean vistas. Beyond, lush greens lawns and manicured gardens abound, surrounding the hotel and filling every space between its buildings. An array of appetising treats are artfully arranged on my dining table (including a bottle of covetable Bouchard Finlayson ‘Hannibal’) and I soon feel at home and keen to investigate the historic property.

SOMEWHAT LABYRINTHINE BUT SIMPLY

begging to be explored, every corridor I walk, garden I pass or trickling fountain I hear as I wander round the hotel, seemingly tells a story that contributes to an overarching sense of calm and warmth one feels when staying at The Oyster Box – akin to being embraced by a grand but unpretentious hospitality queen. In the current age of digital everything, the feeling is welcome and rapidly relaxes me, as I continue to discover the hotel’s charming public spaces, much like a kid. And then it strikes me that the hotel’s status as a national treasure, is likely down to its gradual and graceful transformation, which has seen it slowly evolve with the times, blending colonial charisma with modern luxuries whilst retaining a distinctive charm that captivates guests, including me.

SURROUNDED BY THRIVING FISHPONDS, tropical flora and fauna and an unmistakable air of serenity, the hotel’s spa is evidently something special. Featuring six treatment rooms, a hydrotherapy bath, a hamman, an infinity

The Presidential Suite

The Presidential Suite

pool, a tranquility lounge and more, it’s perhaps unsurprising that it has won countless awards and people travel to the hotel from far and wide for a treatment.

I’M SPOILT FOR CHOICE WHEN IT COMES to satiating my appetite, for The Oyster Box is home to a selection of restaurants and bars, and its longstanding reputation for serving fine fare, skillfully fusing international flavours with local culinary influences, dates back decades. From the relaxed Ocean Terrace, where the hotel’s famed curry buffet is laid out nightly, to the refined Grill Room, where classic fare with contemporary flair is delivered by a team with an obvious passion for providing first-class service, everywhere I dine or pull up a stool for a cocktail is a gratifying

experience. Moreover, every venue is presided over by a warm and characterful host, maître d' or bartender, who has worked at the hotel for years, has a fascinating story to tell and truly cannot do enough for guests.

SO MUCH MORE THAN A HOTEL, FAMILIES habitually gather, lovers get hitched, globetrotters holiday, friends get together, groups party and scores of people dine, drink and laugh at The Oyster Box, making a myriad of memories in the process. Thus throughout the years, it has endured as a paragon of sophistication on the African continent, its ageless architecture, opulent interiors and impeccable service embodying the essence of hospitality in the style of a true icon. https://oysterboxhotel.com

BALI SILENT RETREAT

BALI,

INDONESIA

silence in the age of noise

AN ALTOGETHER DIFFERENT TYPE OF TRIP, THAT MANY OF US ACTUALLY DON’T KNOW WE NEED, IMAD YASSIN TAKES SOME TIME OUT FOR HIMSELF, DEVOID OF ALL DISTRACTIONS, TO UNPLUG AT A SILENT RETREAT ON THE INDONESIAN ISLAND OF BALI

AFTER CHASING A MYRIAD of magical destinations during my life thus far, and capturing countless Instagram-worthy moments, I have often found myself seeking something a little deeper, beyond the ephemeral thrills of digital applause. Rumi, the renowned philosopher and poet, eloquently expressed this sentiment when he said, “I ran to the end of the

world and was left with the only thing I can’t run away from: myself.”

Drowned in an incessant stream of notifications and distractions, the modern age, with its relentless buzz of technology, often robs us of the opportunity to truly introspect and cultivate greater awareness. Or even just notice the little things. And I come from a generation that’s constantly pressured to accomplish more. My mentor often says that we are “human beings” not “human doings.”

THE IMPETUS FOR ATTENDING THIS retreat was to find solitude, understand my desires and perhaps address my internal callings. Some might term it a mini midlife crisis.

My search wasn’t exhaustive. I merely wanted a silent retreat, devoid of religious undertones, that could offer a genuine mental and physical detox. “Bali Silent Retreat” appeared at the top of a Google search and some friends on the island spoke highly of it.

BALI

IS AN

ISLAND

OF

MAJESTIC

mountains , dormant volcanoes, shimmering lakes, wild jungles, fertile rice terraces, raging rivers and magnificent coastlines. At its core, the island's heart boasts a seemingly endless array of temples and water features. All are bound by religious rituals that are fundamental to the island’s day-today being.

About one and a half hours northwest of Ubud, nestled amidst Tabanan's rice terraces in the shadow of the heavily forested holy mountain of Batukaru, adjacent to jungle thriving with animal life, it is evident from the get-go that Bali Silent Retreat is more than a mere sanctuary. For many, it is a transformative journey. And the sacred extinct volcano of Mount Batukaru, its

misty slopes visible, palpably enhances the overall spiritual vibe of the place.

OPERATING FOR A DECADE, A WORLD AWAY from daily routine, the retreat was founded by Patricia Miklautsch and Sang Ketut Rai Wibawa (Sangtu), who knew that there was something special about the land upon which the retreat is built, the first time they set eyes on it in 2011. Indeed, 18 months into construction, the couple discovered that an ashram had existed in the very same location almost six centuries earlier, and five foundation stones of the original ashram were subsequently uncovered in the retreat’s garden. Of this, Patricia said, “This made us realise that the magic and destiny is in the land. We are just the tools that have allowed all of this to happen in a loving, responsible way.”

I’M WELCOMED AND SHOWN TO A RECEPTION bungalow where a video is played on a TV inside, which explains the ethos of the retreat and offers gentle guidelines. This was one of the very few screens on the property, acting as a bridge between the frenetic world outside and the haven within.

ONCE THE SOUNDS OF TRAFFIC, THE GLOW of phones and the demands of daily life disappear, all

Cucumber sushi

that is heard are the gentle rustling of leaves, distant bird calls and the occasional chime of a temple bell.

REFLECTING A DEEP REVERENCE FOR

Mother Nature, my Deluxe Room, priced at a very modest USD 75 per night, deftly blurs the lines between the indoors and outdoors. Wide windows offer panoramic vistas of sprawling rice fields and lush forests and the interior feels at one with the retreat’s natural surroundings. Indeed, the room’s openness, with nature calling all around, challenges my urban instincts. And the first night, as I lay in bed, the jungle's hum and the faint sounds of other guests form an unfamiliar symphony. I wish I had accepted the ear plugs offered, but my ego prevents me from admitting vulnerability.

AS THE SUN GREETS MY SECOND DAY, I FIND empathy in my experience. A fitful sleep, waking several times throughout the night, makes me reflect on the lives of refugee children sleeping in makeshift shelters, constantly exposed to the elements and unfamiliar noises. How do they cope with their fears? And do our city lives inadvertently distance us from our natural origins?

Bali Silent Retreat

THE RETREAT PROUDLY CHAMPIONS

sustainable living and everywhere I look, there are visual displays of its commitment: from solar panels harnessing the sun’s energy, to composting systems turning waste into nourishment for the land.

Meals are a testament to nature’s generosity. Grown without chemicals and prepared with love, the food is not just nourishing but also soulful. Although skeptical initially, the vegan menu –brimming with fresh vegetables, aromatic herbs and exotic fruits – is a culinary delight and every plate a veritable celebration of Bali’s rich bounty.

Walking meditation

APART FROM ITS SUSTAINABLE PRACTICES and natural beauty, what sets Bali Silent Retreat apart is its emphasis on mental well-being. A grand hexagonal meditation area soon becomes my haven. Every day, we gather as equals, our differences invisible in our mutual quest for inner peace. Flo, our meditation guide, introduces us to various techniques, each one moving us a step closer to our inner selves.

DESPITE THE SERENITY, SILENCE BRINGS challenges. With no gadgets to consume my attention, my mind wanders often, unearthing buried anxieties, forgotten memories and latent desires in the process. However, as the days pass, the cacophony of my thoughts began to fade and is replaced by a profound sense of clarity.

AT THE CENTER OF THE RETREAT, A library is rich with literature spanning various cultures and ideologies. In the silence, the act of reading becomes a conversation, a dialogue between the author and I. Every page turned is a journey, every line read, a revelation.

Amongst my fellow retreatants is a tall Chinese lady, her elegance reminiscent of Parisian sophistication. Dubbed ‘CEO lady’ by my playful mind, our paths cross when she comfortingly hands me a book titled “The Untethered Soul.” This gesture underscores the universality of human emotions. Without uttering a word, we form a bond and a shared understanding. To be silent is to be able to listen more fully and understand more profoundly. And as the retreat nears its end, I learn to listen to what’s around and within me, the sounds of nature become the sounds of song, and I find tremendous clarity which I realise could only have ever been found in silence.

SO MUCH MORE THAN A PAUSE FROM THE hectic modern world, a stay at Bali Silent Retreat is a return to my authentic self. As the retreat concludes, I leave with more than memories: I take with me lessons of patience, self-love and mindfulness. In a world clamoring for attention, I have found safety in silence. The real journey, it seems, is not in traversing the world, but in discovering oneself. And armed with my newfound lessons of compassion, patience and unwavering positivity, I navigate obstacles in the real world with an altogether different and more empathetic approach. For when we allow ourselves time to really listen, there is an incredible clarity to be found.

SIX SENSES KRABEY ISLAND

SIHANOUKVILLE, CAMBODIA

cambodia’s unspoilt tropical archipelago

LAPPED BY THE GULF OF THAILAND’S WARM WATERS, NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU VISITS SIX SENSES KOH KRABEY AND HOPS TO A FEW OF ITS GORGEOUS SISTER ISLANDS NEARBY

UNTIL RELATIVELY RECENTLY, the lush islands on Cambodia's south coast were largely untouched and one of the kingdom’s best kept secrets. But a few pre-pandemic developments have since changed this, and as I disembark in Phnom Penh airport, from where I am to be driven southwards, I am excitedly filled with a sense of anticipation, for isn’t a tropical island hideaway everyone’s dream destination?!

LEAVING THE BUSTLING CAMBODIAN CAPITAL behind, the drive offers glimpses of some of the country’s timeless landscapes, with verdant rice paddies stretching as far as I can see, their emerald hues shimmering under the golden sun, and palm trees swaying gently in the breeze, casting dappled shadows on the fields. Where the road skirts along the coast, a traditional fishing village occasionally comes into view, with stilted houses perched above the water and fishermen tending to their colourful boats. Such scenes are a reminder of the time-honoured traditions that thankfully still endure in this corner of the world.

Koh Krabey

ISLAND HOPPING CAMBODIA

IT IS FAR QUICKER TO REACH SIX SENSES Krabey Island’s mainland jetty via a 30-minute drive from Sihanouk International Airport. For most, this is the preferred way to access this part of Cambodia, touted by some as its ‘French Riviera’. But on the day I’m travelling, there are no flights into Sihanouk from my departure point of Siem Reap, and the two-and-a-half hour SUV ride slows me into a calm mood, before a short speedboat transfer to the secluded island of Krabey, which means ‘buffalo’ in Khmer.

ONE OF CAMBODIA'S MOST BEAUTIFUL reserves, Ream National Park was established

Koh Krabey

Khmer House, Six Senses Krabey Island

in the early 1990s to protect 15,000 hectares of mangrove forests, tropical jungles and more than 150 indigenous bird species. A densely forested outcrop located in the Gulf of Thailand, Koh Krabey is located on the edge of the park, and until the boat is pretty close to the island, it is not easy to spot signs of manmade intrusion. It is only when the boat is coming-in to dock, that a few parts of the resort become visible.

THANKS TO THE ISLAND OWNER’S STRICT brief before development of the resort commenced, to protect the jungle environment of Krabey as much as possible, I feel enveloped by nature from the

get-go, as I am whisked in an electric buggy along winding paths fringed by dark basalt stone slabs and overhung by established trees, towards Khmer House – the resort’s mother ship, if you like. Verdant jungle and lush foliage abound at every turn, which I had not been expecting. Incredibly atmospheric, it feels like the resort is a guest on the island, not the other way around, and it is soon apparent that the overall architectural scheme is deftly unified with Krabey’s thriving habitat.

PERHAPS IT'S THE WATERS LAPPING THE rocky coastline, the sea breezes wafting through the open-sided main house, or the obvious deference of the resort’s buildings to their lush surroundings, but I am infused with a palpable sense of wellbeing pretty quickly. It helps that the check-in process is super smooth and before long I am on my way to villa number 7.

PIVOTAL TO THE DESIGN OF ALL OF THE resort’s buildings were a commitment to environmental sustainability and the conservation of the island’s wild aesthetic. 40 private villas dotting

Koh Krabey

Six Senses Krabey Island

ISLAND HOPPING

the island’s 12 hectares – each with its own private pool – were fashioned from a subdued materials palette of dark stone and local timbers, into boxy glass-fronted forms that virtually disappear within the shadows of the jungle, embraced by the tranquil surroundings. The skilful rooting of the resort in its organic context is impressive to behold, and the architects evidently did a sterling job.

ONE OF ONLY A HANDFUL ON THE ISLAND that boasts its own private beach, villa number 7 is accessed from the pathway via 137 steps going down, winding past towering palms and under climbing vines, following the course of the land. I really don’t mind the steps when I arrive into a private infinity pool and an extensive slate sundeck, surrounding a pared-back contemporary villa with Japanese undertones, which is entirely glazed from floor-to-ceiling on three sides, only its back walls bedded into solid rock. Sliding doors provide an authentic indoor-outdoor vibe. Interiors are warm, simple and functional, referencing elements of traditional Cambodian houses in sliding timber wall panels that conceal the TV and separate the vast bathroom, dominated by a massive freestanding tub overlooking the beach and sea beyond. Turquoise accents break-up the restrained colour palette and Cambodia’s national flower, which is native to the island, is carved into the furniture, light fittings and bathroom fixtures. Sensitive to the location, the overall effect is one of tranquility, space and time, and provides an embracing backdrop for the days to come, as well as a place to relax and rejuvenate in the bosom of Mother Nature.

A timber staircase takes me from the pool deck down to a sandy, oasis-like beach which is to be my private coastal sanctuary for the coming days,

Koh Ta Kiev

Diving off the coast of Koh Rong.

ISLAND HOPPING

and the place where I finally read a book for the first time in 2023, whilst reclining on a plush, towelcovered lounger, the warm waters of the Gulf of Thailand lapping the shore just a few metres away. It’s a truly spectacular setting.

HOME TO RICH BIODIVERSITY AND ALIVE

with a marvellous tapestry of lush vegetation, exotic flora and fascinating wildlife, Koh Krabey is nothing short of a treasure trove of natural wonders. And whilst the sprawling spa complex and well-equipped gym tempt, it is the idyllic island that captures my affections. Including a 150-year-old Banyan, towering trees, draped in vibrant foliage, create a verdant canopy that harbours a plethora of plant species. From majestic hardwoods to delicate orchids and exquisite flowering plants, the island's array of plant life is a testament to southern Cambodia’s remarkable diversity.

As I hike the island's trails and paths, I encounter beautiful butterflies, playful monkeys and the longest millipede I've ever seen, while the melodic calls of native bird species echo through the trees, adding a symphony of nature's music to my exploration of Krabey.

VENTURING BEYOND KRABEY, THE surrounding waters teem with marine life, sufficient to satiate snorkelling and diving enthusiasts, while coral reefs host a kaleidoscope of tropical fish, eels and sea turtles, not to mention the occasional reef shark.

Barely one kilometre from Krabey, Koh Ta Kiev is a gorgeous, unspoilt paradise island with limited power and no internet service, the latter being a blessing when in such a tranquil location. Punctuated by jungle treehouses and endless beaches, Ta Kiev is one of Cambodia’s best kept island secrets and definitely worth visiting for a day.

COURTESY OF THEIR SHALLOW DEPTHS and light currents, two of the best diving sites for beginners are the islands of Koh Rong and Koh Rong Samloem, both of which are accessible from my plush Six Senses base.

Koh Rong is a heavenly little island that not only boasts immaculate white-sugar sand beaches, but also offers magnificent snorkelling opportunities amongst its sleepy bays. With an abundance of friendly marine life beneath its gentle waves –including seahorses, parrotfish, squid, yellow boxfish and blue-spotted rays – diving around Rong is a technicolour spectacle and the perfect place for first timers.

WHETHER BASED ON KOH KRABEY FOR THE duration, in the lap of Six Senses’ wellness-focused luxury, or using the resort as a base from which to explore the other gorgeous islands off the country’s south coast, the entire area is a jewel box of Mother Nature's creativity just waiting to be explored, leaving behind the cares of the world in the process, while revelling in the harmonious beauty of the Cambodian archipelago. And as secluded island hideaways go, Six Senses’ Krabey resort is surely one of Asia’s most authentic, its enchanting jungle being the true star of the show. www.sixsenseskrabeyisland.com

Six Senses Krabey Island

Koh Krabey

ISSUE 44 OF THE CULTURED TRAVELLER FEATURES A REVIEW OF MAURO COLAGRECO’S STANDOUT MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT IN THE THAI CAPITAL; AN INTERVIEW WITH AWARD-WINNING BRITISH CHEF, ADAM HANDLING, AND NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU VISITS A RATHER SPECIAL NEW WINERY IN THE CYCLADES

CÔTE BY MAURO COLAGRECO

➤ BANGKOK, THAILAND

ADAM HANDLING ➤ LONDON, UNITED KINGDOM

MIKRA THIRA ➤ THIRASSIA, GREECE

Mikra Thira Winery, Thirassia, Cyclades, Greece

REVIEW

OVERLOOKING BUSTLING CHAO PHRAYA RIVER, NICHOLAS

CHRISOSTOMOU REVIEWS CELEBRATED ARGENTINE CHEF

MAURO COLAGRECO’S INNOVATIVE MEDITERRANEAN FINE DINING

RESTAURANT IN THE HEART OF THE THAI CAPITAL

CÔTE BY MAURO COLAGRECO

➤ BANGKOK, THAILAND

ATMOSPHERE FOOD

BANGKOK IS SOMETHING OF A culinary mecca. Over the years, the city has welcomed waves of ethnic communities and expatriates, each dispensing their own traditions and flavours across the metropolis. From early Arab traders who introduced Middle Eastern delicacies, to the Chinese immigrants who established bustling Chinatown, Bangkok's history is interwoven with diverse culinary influences. Today, wizened street vendors with sizzling woks produce some of the most famous street food in the world, while young European-trained chefs are shaping a burgeoning fine dining scene, making the Thai capital one of the world’s most diverse and multifaceted food scenes. And eating is a thread that runs through even the shortest of stays, for Bangkok's food scene is a captivating tapestry of flavours, colours and aromas that beckons discerning, globetrotting palates.

Cod donut, cured cod, caviar

Swordfish ham, melon

Vegetable consommé, razor clams, zucchini, beans, basil

WHILST BANGKOK BOASTS AN abundance of local Thai delicacies, its high-end dining establishments also offer a cornucopia of international cuisines that are sufficient to tempt even the most well-travelled gourmand, which is a testament to the city's cosmopolitan history and its 21st century status as a global metropolis. Moreover, the emergence of Bangkok as a regional hub for business and tourism has attracted a multitude of world-class chefs, who have established culinary outposts in the city. These culinary maestros blend traditional techniques with innovative ideas, resulting in extraordinary dining experiences that showcase the finest international flavours.

From the refined elegance of haute cuisine at two Michelin-starred Le Normandie by Alain Roux, which has been serving fine French fare since the 1950s, to the intricate artistry of progressive Japanese kaiseki-ryōri at Kintsugi by Jeff Ramsey, which utilises a number of modern techniques, Bangkok's

high-end restaurants cater to the most discerning connoisseurs. Indeed, in today’s Bangkok, at the upper echelons of city’s culinary spectrum, one can embark on a gastronomic voyage to almost anywhere on the planet.

FIRST OPENING ITS UNDERSTATED

doors some three years ago, at the same time as the hotel which it calls home, Côte by Mauro Colagreco is Capella Bangkok’s signature restaurant. Inspired by much lauded Argentine chef Colagreco’s three Michelin star restaurant Mirazur in Menton, France, Côte offers a sophisticated reinterpretation of Mediterranean Riviera cuisine, making the best possible use of sustainable and locally sourced ingredients, but refreshingly not professing to be fusion in any way.

Nestled deep within the hotel’s walls, the riverside dining room is a pleasing symphony of refinement and conviviality. We arrive for dinner on a Thursday evening and are seated at

a table with a good view of the room, plenty of space around us and the next diners many metres away. During the day, diners enjoy views of Bangkok’s arterial Chao Phraya river as they eat, with its constant stream of river buses, ferries and longtail water taxis.

A frisson of different woods and soft hues, the room is tasteful, elegant and comfortable and exudes an ambiance that gently invites gastronomic indulgence and allows the food to shine. There isn’t an empty table, the air is alive with hushed (but not whispered) conversations and the clinking of glasses, and the adjoining private room is obviously hosting some sort of celebratory dinner. Far from being stiff and muted, the atmosphere encourages chit-chat and there is much laughter during the course of the meal.

WITH HIS RAPIDLY GROWING

culinary empire now spanning the UK, France, China and Thailand, Colagreco is skilled at handpicking a team for

each of his global outposts that marries the necessary talents to make each a success. In Bangkok, Côte is helmed by the Franco-Italian duo of restaurant manager and sommelier Thibaud Charlemarty out front, and Italian chef Davide Garavaglia in the kitchen. Together they make a formidable team, as it soon becomes apparent.

WITH A PROFOUND PASSION for the art of cooking and an innate understanding of flavour profiles, Garavaglia has carved a remarkable path for himself through the culinary world, working under chef Davide Oldani at two Michelin-starred D’O in Milan, and chef Pierre Gagnaire at three Michelinstarred Sketch in London, before joining Mauro Colagreco at Mirazur in 2015 as Chef de Cuisine. Absorbing the nuances of various culinary traditions and techniques over the years, Garavaglia's innate curiosity and relentless pursuit of perfection led to Côte being awarded a Michelin star in 2022, and him being awarded the Michelin Thailand Young Chef Award 2023.

Wagyú beef, shitake mushrooms, corn foam, garlic, pepper

Chef Davide Garavaglia

THE MEAL BEGINS WITH A glass of excellent Dhondt-Grellet champagne, closely followed by a selection of artfully presented amuse bouche, the most standout of which are a divine cured codfish and caviar donut, and Garavaglia’s clever take on traditional melon and prosciutto, replacing the latter with swordfish which has been brined, cured and dry-aged in a three-week process.

THE OPENING COURSE OF BRITTANY brown crab topped with caviar, under a dollop of Phuket pineapple emulsion, is a skilful and ingenious marriage of flavours, the fruit foam topping providing a refreshing counterbalance to the meaty crab.

A theatrical variation on the theme of a minestrone – with zucchini, borlotti beans and razor clams in a vegetable broth, served in a small, hollowed out courgette – is both witty and moreish. And the remainder of the seven-course Côte Experience menu proceeds in much the same imaginative vain, with every dish striking a delicate balance between tradition and innovation, and paying homage to classic flavours in a stylish way, while infusing them with a contemporary twist.

Meanwhile, the exceptional wine selection courtesy of Charlemarty,

Chef Davide Garavaglia

criss-crosses Europe, and includes a spectacular Zárate Albariño from the Galician coast, with an intense bouquet of orchard fruit; a gourmet MoreauNaudet Chablis, which is seductive and deep, and a heady, spice-accented 2020 Le Rouvre Crozes-Hermitage –the latter served alongside the main course of wagyū tenderloin with grilled maitake mushrooms and a corn sauce.

NOT AN INGREDIENT, DISH

composition or wine pairing can be faulted during the three and a half hours of gastronomic and oenological excellence exhibited by Garavaglia and Charlemarty, with chef Garavaglia’s artistry, meticulous attention to detail and ability to harmonise diverse ingredients into symphonies of taste, deftly coming together to create an unforgettable dining experience. An exceptional meal from start to finish, I’m imagining my next visit to Côte by Mauro Colagreco before I even leave the restaurant.

CÔTE BY MAURO COLAGRECO

EXECUTIVE CHEF: Davide Garavaglia

SOMMELIER & MANAGER: Thibaud Charlemarty

ADDRESS: Capella Bangkok, 300/2 Charoenkrung Road, Yannawa, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120

TELEPHONE: +6620983818

EMAIL: cote.bangkok@capellahotels.com

WEBSITE: www.cotebkk.com

CUISINE: Mediterranean

OPENING HOURS: Lunch 12.00 - 14.00. Dinner 18.00 - 22.00

LUNCH PRICE:

Escapade 4-course menu THB 2,250++ Côte Inspiration 5-course menu THB 4,100++ Côte Experience 7-course menu THB 5,800++

DINNER PRICE : Côte Inspiration 5-course menu THB 4,100++ Côte Experience 7-course menu THB 5,800++

IDEAL MEAL: Carte Blanche 9-course menu THB 6,500++

RESERVATIONS: Essential

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

CHILDREN: Highchairs available

CREDIT CARDS: All major

PARKING: Complimentary valet

TCT REVIEWER: Nicholas Chrisostomou for dinner Star ratings out of five reflect the reviewer’s feedback about the food and service and, separately, the atmosphere in the dining room ATMOSPHERE

INTERVIEW

adam handling

REAPING WIDESPREAD ACCLAIM FOR HIS STYLISH, CONTEMPORARY BRITISH FARE – WHICH FOCUSES ON SEASONALITY, SUSTAINABILITY AND MINIMAL WASTAGE – AT THE AGE OF 35, MICHELIN-STARRED CHEF AND RESTAURATEUR, ADAM HANDLING , HAS ALREADY MADE HIS MARK ON THE INDUSTRY, WINNING AN ARRAY OF ACCOLADES IN THE PROCESS, INCLUDING THIS YEAR’S TRENCHERMAN’S AWARD FOR CREATIVITY AND INNOVATION

When did you first become interested in cooking?

When I was growing up, food wasn’t about experience or enjoyment. It was about nutrition. My dad was in the army, so I didn't really have a childhood where hospitality was a suggested path for my siblings or I to walk. I saw hospitality as an opportunity to get out of schooling, not have to go to university and get on with some solid work.

Where was your first job in a kitchen?

At 16, I started as an apprentice at Gleneagles. I was the youngest person in the kitchen and the first apprentice that the late and sadly missed chef Andrew Fairlie took on. He was an amazing mentor and I fell in love with the camaraderie, the teamwork, the passion, the fire, the adrenaline. It was at Gleneagles that my love for experiencing food in a different way grew beyond simply nutrition.

Your first memorable restaurant meal? I was 18 and it was my first ‘big boy’ meal out. I took my then girlfriend to The Grill at The Dorchester. I have strong

recollections of that iconic room, with the dramatic, Scottish-themed murals. I’d never experienced anything like it in my life – it was simply magical.

Your vision for the perfect restaurant? If I’m completely honest, it already exists in Frog by Adam Handling in Covent Garden. In being true to myself, Frog is the epitome of what and how I like to eat, and I hope that other people love it too. But we are never settled and continuously elevate the restaurant’s offering. We’ve just installed a new kitchen and refurbished the dining room and I genuinely feel that this is the best menu and experience guests have ever been offered.

How did the Frog come about and what is the restaurant’s inspiration?

The Frog is all about British food, inspired by London. It’s a restaurant where you can eat in supreme comfort – irrespective of how you dress or what you look like – and you will always feel welcome. Every dish on the menu has a story behind it and means something to me. We showcase the best British ingredients while using flavours that

represent London’s multiculturalism. I call it ‘sustainable British luxury’. We work closely with farmers, fishermen and growers to obtain the best seasonal produce. The team forages locally together and ensures that all parts of the ingredients are utilised. And any by-products from the food menu are used to form the basis of the drinks on our cocktail list, to ensure that there is no such thing as wastage. frogbyadamhandling.com

The Frog is bright, sleek and stylish yet un pretentious and the fare is modern, innovative and exquisitely presented. Do you believe that this is the way forward for 'fine dining'?

I’m a very laid-back chef. I love the best, but I like to do it comfortably. I hate having to pretend to be posh just to get into a restaurant, and, believe me, there are still restaurants in London with some ridiculous rules in place! I like dressing-up, but I’ve been turned away from a restaurant because I wasn’t wearing leather shoes. Crazy. Let people be themselves. If you make people feel really comfortable, they’re going to stay longer and work their way through your wine list!

The Loch & The Tyne, Old Windsor

What piqued your interest in sustainability and fuels your drive today to minimise waste?

Sustainability came into the equation about nine years ago when I opened my first, small restaurant, out of a necessity to operate as economically as I could and because I couldn't afford to bin anything. It wasn't about saving the world or being green fingered. It was about respecting the products and working out how to stay open moving forwards. We bought fish from day boats, buying exactly what the fishermen had caught. We bought whole animals, because butchery skills are very important to me and I wanted to ensure that we used everything we

the common element in each of my restaurants and bars is sustainable, british luxury

could, out of respect for the animal and the farmer. And this continues to be my ethos to this day.

Beneath the Frog and something of a London secret, tell us about Eve Bar.

A luxe and sexy space, the Eve Bar team has a thorough understanding of classic cocktails and how to produce something completely modern by utilising every product that goes into each drink in a sustainable way. It’s very forward thinking for a bar. But what makes the Eve Bar experience truly different, is the coming together of the bar and Frog teams’ skills to make sheer magic happen in a glass. And Eve Bar’s snacks are in a league of their own! evebar.co.uk

How does the menu offering differ between your London and St Ives restaurants? The common element in each of my

restaurants and bars is sustainable, British luxury. But each location is also bespoke to its surroundings: Frog by Adam Handling is a journey around the British Isles; Ugly Butterfly in Carbis Bay is hyper local and only uses food from Cornwall and the South-West, and The Loch & The Tyne in Old Windsor utilises what we grow on-site, with the menu changing regularly being mindful of our regulars and due to seasonality.

Do you have a core ethos, by which you’re guided, when running your kitchens? Inspiration, motivation and education.

In 2021, you cooked for some of the most powerful people on the planet at the G7 summit. What did they eat and how did you handle the pressure?

I’m very lucky, because it was actually the third time that I cooked for world leaders in my career, so far. The food I made at

IMAGE: JOHN HERSEY

Frog by Adam Handling, Covent Garden

Frog by Adam Handling, Covent Garden

the G7 was the same as I always make, in that I didn’t go down the conventional route of serving the most luxury foods. I wanted to cook with local ingredients and showcase how food waste can be considered luxury.

As well as cooking, I served the food with the team and was able to talk to the leaders in a very casual manner. It was inspiring to see some of them get really excited by the fact that my dishes were made from commonly discarded ingredients. If I got them thinking about food in a different and positive light, then I did my job!

Aside from Michelin stars, you have won a number of accolades. Which means the most to you?

Being named the GQ Restaurateur of the Year in 2020 was a big one for me and holds a special place in my heart.

I love GQ and believe it’s a publication that pinpoints exactly what’s most relevant in the UK and around the world at the time. To be recognised by such a great publication and the judges behind the award, as well as the industry nominations, meant the absolute world.

Your group employs some 200 staff. How do you inspire and motivate them all and keep them on top of their game? You have to lead by example. There

is no other way. Be honest about your goals and ask each and every person what their goals are. If they align, it will be an incredible journey.

What drives you day-to-day and how do you stay fit and focused?

I live to work, not work to live. I live and breathe what my team and I have created. Seeing everyone push forward on a day-to-day basis makes me gladly get out of bed in the morning. I also go to the gym four times a week and I box.

Does the food of any particular country or countries inspire you?

Wherever I am in the world, I always find some food inspiration, whether it be a technique, an ingredient or a clever combination. But at my restaurants, I will only ever be cooking with ingredients that the British Isles produces.

Ugly Butterfly, Carbis Bay

Scouting for new sites; imparting your culinary knowledge on young talent; behind the pass, or chatting with guests – where are you happiest?

I’m a creative person and so at my happiest when I’m developing new menus and then teaching the team how to make the dishes. I enjoy seeing their eyes widen and smiles fill their faces, just as mine did, when my mentoring chef took me through the same process 20 years ago. I inspire by showing and teaching, rather than telling and shouting.

To where do you escape to wind-down or take some time out?

For me, taking time off is counterproductive. I get lost in my own head, particularly when I’m travelling on my own. But I do take the team around the world, to places we can all get excited together and learn. We recently visited South Africa and my mind was blown: the food, the wine

and the people were incredible.

Your favourite place to eat out?

My favourite place to eat in the world is Gareth Ward’s restaurant with rooms, Ynyshir, which is located in the Rhondda Valley in South Wales. Why he doesn’t have three Michelin stars baffles me. The 30-course meal takes 4 or 5 hours and every mouthful is spectacular. ynyshir.co.uk

any by -products from the food menu are used to form the basis of the drinks on our cocktail list, to ensure that there is no such thing as wastage IMAGE: JOHN HERSEY

What’s the key to succeeding in the hospitality industry today?

As a business owner, I’d recommend working in your business. Be at the heart of the operation and push alongside the team. People want to work

with inspiring people and they buy into the name on the door. If you’re never there, then what’s the point for the team? Also, work the weekends, learn while you can and don’t miss out on any work opportunities – they may not come around again and someone else will overtake you, then it’s an uphill battle to stay on top.

www.adamhandling.co.uk

Frog by Adam Handling Covent Garden

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU JOURNEYS TO THE CYCLADES, TO VISIT THE FIRST WINERY BUILT ON THE TINY UNSPOILT ISLAND OF THIRASSIA, AND MEET ITS TALENTED FOUNDER AND OENOLOGIST

EXPERIENCE

MIKRA THIRA THIRASSIA, GREECE

IN THE VAST tapestry of the oenological world, Greece has long been a land of intrigue and enigma, its vinicultural heritage resplendent with tales of transformation and triumph. Once relegated to the

shadows of ignominy, for it was epitomised for decades by the humble and quite rightly oft-maligned Retsina, Greek wines have since emerged with resolute vigour, far transcending the world’s boundaries of expectation, to finally secure their rightful place amongst the pantheon of world-class viticultural offerings. Indeed, today there is a wonderful selection of rather excellent Greek wines to choose from.

ASIDE FROM THE HARD WORK and unwavering commitment of its winemakers, a confluence of factors has fuelled the metamorphosis of the Greek wine world. These include a rediscovery of indigenous grape varieties, an elevation of winemaking techniques, and a steadfast dedication to producing wines of the utmost quality. Yet whilst the Greek wine renaissance has been nothing short of remarkable, the rise of the nation’s wines and their presence

Thirasía

EXPERIENCE

on the global stage can be attributed to a cluster of particular Greek vineyards. These include Gaia Wines, whose Assyrtiko and Agiorgitiko wines capture the essence of Greece's terroir with finesse and precision; Alpha Estate, whose elegant Xinomavro wines are a powerful expression of refined complexity. And two vineyards which have emerged in the past decade as particular beacons of excellence, having made significant contributions

to the Greek wine industry: Situated on the sun-bathed hillsides of Epanomi near Thessaloniki in northern Greece, where its vines enjoy the warm Mediterranean breezes, Ktima Gerovassiliou is recognised as one of the country's leading wineries. Founder and winemaker Vangelis Gerovassiliou has been instrumental in reviving and promoting indigenous Greek grape varieties, particularly Malagousia. And Gerovassiliou's

Malagousia wines have gained international acclaim for their aromatic profile, combining floral notes with citrus and tropical fruit flavours. Gerovassiliou also produces outstanding reds made from Syrah and Limnio grapes.

Founded in 1998 by Vassilis Tsaktsarlis and Vangelis Gerovassiliou and located in the Kavala region of north-eastern Greece, Biblia Chora has played a significant role in

elevating Greek wines on a global scale. Focusing on crafting fine wines that showcase the unique terroir of the region, combining both indigenous and international grape varieties, Biblia Chora’s wines have received numerous accolades for their quality and style, particularly their white wines made from Assyrtiko and Sauvignon Blanc, as well as their reds made from Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

SURROUNDED BY THE AZURE

blue Aegean, the picturesque Cycladic island of Santorini has a rich history and a long-standing tradition of winemaking. In fact, the island's viticulture dates back thousands of years, making it one of the oldest wine producing regions in the world. And the unique terroir of Santorini, characterised by volcanic soil and a Mediterranean climate, has played a pivotal role in shaping the distinct character and quality of its wines.

Known as aspa, Santorini’s volcanic soil is rich in minerals and possesses excellent drainage properties. Thus the porous soil retains moisture, allowing the vines to thrive despite the arid climate and strong winds that sweep across the Cyclades. Volcanic ash also acts as a natural filter, protecting the roots from excessive heat and

Ioanna Vamvakouri

Mikra Thira

helping to preserve the vineyards from phylloxera, which is a devastating vine pest. Furthermore, the indigenous grape varieties cultivated in Santorini –including Assyrtiko, Athiri and Aidani – have adapted to the harsh growing conditions over centuries, developing unique characteristics.

OF SANTORINI’S WINES, ITS Assyrtiko reigns supreme and has gained international acclaim for its

exceptional quality. Assyrtiko grapes grown on Santorini produce dry white wines with vibrant acidity, intense mineral notes and a distinctive citrus and saline character, often likened to the island's volcanic landscape. The ancient winemaking techniques employed by some on Santorini also contribute to the wines' singularity. The traditional koulouri vine training system, where vines are pruned into low-lying baskets to protect them from the wind, helps to maximise sun exposure

and preserve precious moisture. And the practice of vinsanto winemaking, which involves sun-drying the grapes for several weeks, results in luscious sweet wines with complex flavours of dried fruits, honey and spices.

SET AMIDST AN UNSPOILT landscape of vineyards and fields, Mikra Thira is nestled on the idyllic island of Thirassia, just a ten-minute boat ride from its more famous and much busier neighbour of Santorini. Thirassia was once joined to its fancy Cycladic sister as part of the much larger island of Strongili, before being blown apart by Thira’s spectacular eruption in 1600 BC.

The ten minutes or so I spend crossing the Aegean – from crowded Ammoudi harbour towards Thirassia – feel like travelling back in time, for in many ways the two islands could not be more different. When I alight on the small island, the welcome change in pace and atmosphere is immediately palpable, and I travel on a dusty road, lined by traditional houses, towards Mikra Thira, with the raw and natural beauty of Thirassia captivating me right away.

DERIVING ITS NAME FROM AN ancient Greek literary reference, experienced oenologist Ioanna Vamvakouri first dreamt of establishing a winery on the island some 16 years ago. But the project only got off the ground a decade later, when she teamed up with established winemakers Vangelis Gerovassiliou and Vassilis Tsaktsarlis, the three sharing the view that Thirassia’s unique ecosystem and distinct microclimate would yield some incredibly unique wines. Construction of the winery began in 2017.

SIMPLE ON THE OUTSIDE YET complex and brimming with winemaking technology in its bowels, for the building goes down two storeys, the carefully considered winery building was designed in a Cycladic architectural style, using local materials and Greek geometry, in order to sit comfortably within the environment that surrounds it. This it has achieved perfectly.

And the attention to detail impresses, as I tour the building, including its modern winemaking and wine-ageing facilities, and tasting rooms.

SO FAR AS THE WINES ARE concerned, having sampled many Greek wines in my time, including a number hailing from Santorini, I am astonished to discover the distinctive difference in the character of Mikra Thira’s wines. Vamvakouri tells me that whilst Thirassia's volcanic soil is similar to that of Santorini, it imparts a distinct mineral quality to the grapes, resulting in Mikra Thira wines displaying a much more terroir-driven expression. Consequently, every sip literally brims with a sense of place.

RICH IN THE MOUTH WITH high acidity and a lasting aftertaste, Mikra Thira's medium-bodied signature Santorini is an easy-to-drink wine. Slightly more grown-up and very interesting on the palate, Terrasea is soft, almost honeyed and

pairs beautifully with characterful cheeses. But of the three wines Mikra Thira produces, all using Assyrtiko grapes grown on Thirassia, it is its remarkable Nykteri which I love the most. Lively, with aromas of pears, peach and apricots, balanced with

intense notes of citrus fruits, the inimitable wine explodes on the palate and displays a unique minerality. Despite being the least expensive of the three, it is a few bottles of the Nykteri I leave the island with, vowing to return for the harvest in August,

having made a new friend in the charming Vamvakouri, who is fully deserving of the accolades her wines win just one month later, when all three make the much coveted top 50 Great Greek Wines list. greatgreekwines.com

WITH SO MANY STARS IN THE constellation of Greek wine excellence today, many with decades of production behind them, it says a great deal about Mikra Thira that its wines are already winning awards and being served in the best restaurants across Europe and beyond.

Producing extraordinary wines in an extraordinary place, a visit to Mikra Thira is not only an opportunity to intimately witness the winemaking process first-hand and sample some exceptional wines, but it is also a chance to see the surprisingly undeveloped and little-known island of Thirassia, before everyone else discovers its special allure. https://mikrathira.com

Mikra Thira

Mikra Thira

THE CULTURED TRAVELLER SITS DOWN WITH THE GROUND-BREAKING ORKNEYBORN INTERDISCIPLINARY COMPOSER, PRODUCER AND MULTI-INSTRUMENTALIST, WHO HAS MOVED PEOPLE TO TEARS WITH HIS EVOCATIVE COMPOSITIONS

IN CONVERSATION WITH erland cooper

HAILING FROM STROMNESS in Orkney and dubbed “nature’s songwriter” by The Guardian Erland Cooper is a ground-breaking Scottish composer, producer and multi-instrumentalist celebrated for deftly merging field recordings with traditional orchestration, contemporary electronic elements and conceptional art.

Through music, words and cinematography, Cooper explores identity, memory, and place, and develops these themes further by partnering with well-known artists and writers.

In Spring 2021, Cooper literally buried in Orkney the only existing copy of the master tape of his first classical album, Carve The Runes Then Be Content With Silence, deleting all digital files, and leaving only a treasure hunt of clues for fans and his record label alike to search for it. It remained underground until two Kirkwall residents solved the mystery and unearthed the recording in Stromness.

As a solo artist, he has released seven acclaimed albums, including a trilogy of work inspired by his childhood home, as

well as themes of nature, people, place and time. Cooper also works across mixed media projects including installation art, theatre and film. His most recent studio album, Folded Landscapes, was released earlier this year, and is a collaboration with pioneering string group Scottish Ensemble and UK Poet Laureate Simon Armitage, amongst other familiar voices. www.erlandcooper.com

Were you born into a musical family?

I am one of six children. My siblings are arguably better musicians than I but they help save lives around the world in their respective careers and I’m proud, not envious of them. I did learn trumpet and fiddle as a boy but I wanted to learn piano and guitar so I used to spend as much time as I could in the music room at school out of hours figuring out these instruments and how to record them. All while my peers played football.

What is your first musical memory as a child?

I remember the full side-A of Prokofiev’s Peter And The Wolf and side-A of The Beatles’ Rubber Soul album. Presumably I was not taught how to turn over the physical record on the turntable!

Your musical inspirations?

Sounds of the natural world.

Was there a particular event which prompted you to begin composing music?

As I learnt to record with cassette tape machines (pre MIDI and software), while learning to perform, by default I was learning to write, albeit no doubt influenced by my parents record collection and the radio broadcasting hits of each decade up north.

How did your surroundings influence your musical creativity during your early life?

Orkney is a rock in the North Sea, surrounded by the elements, which was both the best and worst thing about my childhood. I was privileged to be surrounded by an area of outstanding beauty and equally taught valuable lessons on harder, darker times with brutal weather conditions and a strong local community. As a boy, I could not wait to imagine leaving to far flung countries. As an adult, I look forward to returning.

MUSIC & NIGHT LIFE INTERVIEW

You founded two bands in your early career?

Yes, I’ve a diverse musical background. Each band taught me something that I’ve brought forward into my current practice. I’m not classically trained, I am autodidact and with every project and musician I work with, I learn something invaluable. In music, it is quite common to flow forward with collaborators you hope bring out the best in you and your ability.

How did you come to combine field recordings with traditional classical orchestration and contemporary electronic elements in your solo work?

To me, music is just patterns of sound or more so frequencies on a spectrum, and so field recordings, particularly of the natural world, are an excellent way to understand the sonic characteristics of the orchestral palette, traditional band and electronic elements. How to combine these into new landscapes is of constant interest to me.

Which musical instruments, or contemporary electronic elements, do you most enjoy working with?

Chamber strings, choral elements with text or poetry, and ambient electronics.

Tell us about your mixed media projects, including working with installation art, theatre and film. I enjoy the narrative side of my work. I am less inspired by music, and more so by art, theatre, film,

poetry and the natural world. I enjoy working across different projects that ultimately help communicate a compelling story.

The executives at Decca/Mercury KX signed you without having heard a single note of your new album?

In a world of instant gratification and immediacy, this felt like a collective opportunity to create a work that acts as a meditation on value and time, celebrating just not my music, but the wider community of creators and those behind the scenes that help work within those projects. I’m proud to work with this team and their trust and appreciation to do things differently together.

Which have been your favourite collaborations to date?

Writing with poet laureate Simon Armitage was a near spontaneous collaboration. When soprano Josephine Stephenson sung his words, the melody landed like a gannet, and I hope it reflected the rhythm of his poetry.

How often do you return to Orkney?

As frequently as possible and weekly in my head.

Simon Armitage

Anyone you’d love to work with but haven’t yet?

I’d like to work with David Attenborough in some form and sit under the branches of his oak figurine, like a shadow for a moment.

Tell us about your fourth studio album, Folded Landscapes. Folded Landscapes is a multimovement work and initially a slow glacial accent, but I hope a listener will be rewarded for their patience by a slowly thawing burning hope. It touches on themes of temperature change and time. The music and musicians themselves all thaw through

a metaphorical and literal process of recording conditions from sub-zero temperatures to sun burn, on the UK’s hottest day on record.

What’s your favourite holiday destination to kick-back and relax?

Italy. The culture, cuisine and history are things dear to me and perhaps simply the opposite of my upbringing. I particularly like small fishing villages by the sea, which I suppose mirror my childhood, and I like to witness the parallels.

Any favourite hotels?

Hotel Gellért in Budapest with its rejuvenating thermal waters. And Bagno Vignoni in Tuscany for the same reason, plus the hotel’s links to Soviet filmmaker Andrei Tarkovsky.

What advice would you give a fledgling composer?

Someone asked me how to go about writing a single piece of work. I suggested they don’t do that, but instead try to write three or several pieces of work at the same time, since they would all inform each other.

Hotel Gellért, Budapest

christmas gift guide

HUNTING FOR THE PERFECT CHRISTMAS PRESENTS OFTEN ADDS TO THE SEASONAL STRESS, AND WITH SO MUCH ON OFFER THESE DAYS, THRUST IN FRONT OF US ON EVERYTHING FROM TIKTOK TO WEBSTORES, MANY SHOPPERS SIMPLY DON’T KNOW WHERE TO START. SO, ADRIAN GIBSON HAS CAREFULLY PUT TOGETHER A FUN AND LUXURIOUS EDITOR-APPROVED LIST OF THOUGHTFUL GIFTS FOR READERS OF THE CULTURED TRAVELLER . BEST OF ALL, EVERY ITEM CAN BE PURCHASED FROM THE COMFORT OF YOUR HOME, WHILST SIPPING A FLUTE OF FIZZ

AVERY GLASS TEARDROP BAUBLES SOLD BY NEPTUNE, WHOSE APPROACH TO DESIGN , materials and service we admire, these gorgeous classic-style ripple-textured glass drop baubles are traditionally mouthblown into elegant teardrop shapes and come in a boxed set of six. Hanging on a Christmas tree or dangling from a light fitting, they bounce light around the room all day and will add a chic vintage touch over the festive season. GBP 42 for six www.neptune.com

LONAI SEQUIN BLAZER

A LONDON TO DUBAI-BASED womenswear brand redefining elegance with limited edition capsule collections, Lonai works with an array of luxurious fabrics, and intricate craftsmanship is involved in many of its ethically made pieces, all of which embody modern femininity. This showstopping silver sequin blazer will surely put you in a party mood as soon as you put it on!

GBP 850 https://lonaistudio.com

ORANJ CHRISTMAS SURVIVAL HAMPER

USING ITS INSIDER KNOWLEDGE , the team at one-stop London bottle shop, app and wine bar and restaurant, Oranj, has created hampers containing some of the most desirable goodies this festive season. The perfect gift for any host/hostess, aspiring sommelier or a cool nephew, this ‘Christmas Survival Hamper’ includes some divine snacks, condiments, and, of course, wine, contained within a hand-screenprinted Oranj tote, and complete with incense to banish any bad vibes.

GBP 89 including UK delivery https://oranj.co.uk

POPPY LISSIMAN X ZANDRA RHODES GEO SPARKLE TOTE

AFFECTIONATELY NICKNAMED the ‘Princess of Punk’, Dame Zandra Rhodes has been in the business for more than five decades. Over the years, her bold and dramatic prints have become legendary and her vivid use of colour has become her signature. Rhodes recently collaborated with Australian accessory designer Poppy Lissiman to help introduce her iconic designs to a younger generation. Made from recycled cotton with faux leather, this affordable canvas tote features an original Rhodes print dating back to 1971, making it a somewhat collectable and covetable piece. GBP 144 https://uk.poppylissiman.com

OLIVIA MADIGANSHEA RING

HAILING FROM A LONG LINE OF ANTIQUE dealers and jewellers, Olivia Madigan-Shea has been producing fine jewellery at her Hatton Garden studio for more than a decade. Taking inspiration from art-deco designs, she believes that jewellery is always a token of love, even when it's a gift to oneself. Custom made to order with a large vivid Swiss blue topaz at its center, this stunning ‘The Stoned Signet’ ring is fashioned from solid gold, and the large central stone is surrounded by pink, orange, yellow and green sapphires and blue diamonds.

From GBP 1,495 www.oliviamadiganshea.com

BRITISH BOXERS SLIPPER SOCKS

AVAILABLE IN A VARIETY OF sizes and colourways for him and her, these fun and funky slipper socks by British Boxers are hand-knitted from 100% sheep’s wool, in an attractive chunky cable design, and are fully lined in jersey cotton for additional warmth and softness. Machine washable, they mould to the wearer's feet to keep them cosy on chilly nights. GBP 30 https://british-boxers.com

PAUL & SHARK KNITTED BEANIE

A HERITAGE BRAND FOUNDED IN the early 1970s, Paul & Shark is back with a slick new store concept and a high-profile ad campaign featuring ex James Bond star Pierce Brosnan and his son Paris, styled by renowned fashion editor Anna Dello Russo. For Christmas, the brand’s classic wool ribbed beanie has been updated with an embroidered patch logo to the front and a removeable enamel shark pin. GBP 127 www.paulandshark.com

DEN UNION LOUNGE SUIT

THE BRAINCHILD OF former menswear buyer Glenn and his partner Mark, Den Loungewear encourages its customers to feel comfortable and sexy in its signature line of union suits – a style long associated with working class America and once deemed somewhat old fashioned. With the aid of a modern revamp, Den’s lounge suits are now back on trend and perfect to keep gents toasty in style on a cold winter’s day.

GBP 84 www.denloungewear.com

MATHMOS ‘POD’ LAVA LAMP

FOUNDED IN 1963 BY INVENTOR Edward Craven Walker, Mathmos lava lamps have been in continuous British production ever since. These retrostyled ‘Pod’ candle-powered lava lamps are a captivating fusion of fun, practicality and modern design, are powered by regular tealights and take just 20 minutes to warm-up. Not wired and so easily portable, they can be use outdoors or in, and will surely mesmerise guests sat at any festive table.

GBP 48 each https://mathmos.com

ELVIS AND KRESSE WALLET

AFTER A CHANCE ENCOUNTER WITH the London Fire Brigade in 2005, Elvis and Kresse was founded to repurpose decommissioned fire hoses and fashion them into luxury goods. Since then, more than 300 tons of hoses have avoided landfill and been creatively upcycled into gorgeous new products. The hoses from which this stylish wallet was made, could have been in active duty for up to 25 years. Wallets can be personalised with laser etching and are available in fire brigade red or a rarer yellow colour.

From GBP 75 www.elvisandkresse.com

LEPELCLUB COCKTAIL GLASSES

HANDMADE IN THE NETHERLANDS BY JILL SNIJDER’S FUN, FEMININE and flirty tableware brand, Lepelclub, which is inspired by boutique hotels and contemporary art, these classic cocktail glasses feature an elongated stem and a wide bowl hand-embellished with pearl detailing.

Sold in a set of twelve so there’s plenty for a party, each glass is carefully individually wrapped for shipping.

GBP 220 https://theinvisiblecollection.com

MASATO JONES NEON SIGN

BORN IN SAITAMA NEAR TOKYO and a graduate of C entral St Martins, Leeds-based fashion designer Masato Jones has dressed the likes of Beverley Knight, creates womenswear, menswear and homewares, and often promotes other independent designers as a means to support the homeless. Inspired by Roy Lichtenstein, this fun neon sign will brighten any room in a bright and explosive way.

GBP 159.95 www.masato.co.uk

RANKIN’S ‘THE DAZED DECADES’ BOOK

ALREADY A WELL-KNOWN photographer, videographer and film producer, in 1991 Rankin moved into magazine publishing, launching Dazed & Confused with Jefferson Hack. Produced to coincide with ‘The Dazed Decades’ museum show held at the Scharpoord Cultural Centre in Knokke-Heist earlier this year, this book contains more than 200 pages of images from Rankin’s archives, spanning three decades, some of which have never been published before, making it a must-have for any fashionista.

GBP 40 www.rankinphoto.co.uk

MASSERIA MOROSETA EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL

LOCATED IN THE HEART OF PUGLIA, MODERN 6-ROOM

Masseria Moroseta farmhouse looks towards the medieval town of Ostuni and the Adriatic Sea beyond, is set within 5 hectares of centuries-old organically managed olive groves, and welcomes guests yearround. The Moroseta team prides itself on respecting nature and grows much of its own produce to create incredible Italian cuisine. The farm’s olives are handpicked every year and cold pressed to create an exquisite extra virgin olive oil brimming with Apulian scents. Gift a bottle to the Christmas Day chef and you’ll eat extra well on the big day!

From EUR 12 www.masseriamoroseta.it

JOCK MOONEY AB-FAB PRINT

A SCULPTURE GRADUATE FROM THE EDINBURGH COLLEGE OF Art, the work of Scottish artist Jock Mooney has been exhibited internationally to much acclaim. Mooney also produces camp images of popular culture icons which are available on a number of different mediums, including t-shirts, totes and mugs. Featured here are instantly recognisable Patsy and Eddie from Absolutely Fabulous , printed on aluminium with a satin coating, meaning it can be hung indoors and out.

GBP 32.95 www.hellovonk.com

FORMULAE PRESCOTT TRI-BALM

DRIVEN BY A NEED TO SIMPLIFY HER SKINCARE REGIME , and “more importantly lighten my luggage”, former ballerina Pauline Prescott developed a multi-tasking skincare line, whose products are all about luxury travel. Prescott’s hero product is this “tri-balm” which is a waterless, 3-in-1 cleanser, exfoliator and moisturiser, making it ideal for travel. Infused with a geranium and mandarin scent which is relaxing and calming, the waterless composition of the balm means that no bacteria grow in the product and it can be applied directly to the face.

GBP 59 https://formulaeprescott.com

JONATHAN ADLER LIPS VASE

JONATHAN ADLER CREATED HIS EPONYMOUS Modern home décor brand when he left his day job to pursue his true passion of being a potter. His first collection of pots was bought by Barneys and five years later he opened his own store in SoHo, NYC. Handmade by skilled artisans in Peru, this eye-catching high-fired stoneware vase is decorated with melted ground glass fashioned into contemporary lips motifs and cooled to a crackled finish. GBP 165 uk.jonathanadler.com

DR PAWPAW’S ‘YOUR GORGEOUS SKIN’ RANGE

BRITISH BEAUTY BRAND

Dr.PawPaw was founded in 2013 by husband and wife team Johnny and Pauline Paterson, who wanted to find an alternative natural solution for their daughter’s eczema. Renowned for its multi-tasking ‘Original Balm’ that can be used on lips, skin and hair, Dr.PawPaw has recently launched new line ‘Your Gorgeous Skin’. Centered around hero trademarked ingredient papayaluronic, that runs throughout the range, the products provide the nourishing and soothing effects of papaya extract teamed with hyaluronic acids, which absorb into all layers of the skin for instant and long-lasting hydration. From GBP 4.99 www.drpawpaw.com

AUSSIE WAHINE HOOP EARRINGS

JEWELLERY DESIGNER SUE SHEARD GREW UP IN QUEENSLAND ON Australia’s Sunshine Coast. After spending some time in Oahu, she learnt how to handcraft pieces in a Hawaiian style. Now back in Australia, she works in a beachside studio gleaning inspiration from the surrounding ocean. These silver earrings are adorned with sea-tumbled glass which can take decades to be naturally polished in the sand, making every pair unique. AUD 60 www.aussiewahine.com

LEE BROOM FULCRUM CANDLESTICKS

TAKING INSPIRATION FROM his background in fashion design, Shoreditch-based self-employed designer-entrepreneur Lee Broom is one of London's most influential product designers and is fast becoming an international design star. A play on the concept of pivots and supports, Fulcrum is a sculptural and monolithic candlestick whose cylindrical stem appears to balance on a central sphere. Available in glass and marble, the candlestick is also offered in two sizes fashioned from tactile, rough-hewn solid travertine, shown here.

From GBP 340 https://leebroomstore.com

LAND & WATER MANDARIN & MINT CANDLE

CREATED ON THE NORTH COAST of Cornwall by Pix Ashworth, Land&Water uses natural essential oils and other sustainably sourced ingredients in its small batch bath and body products, and recycled materials in all packaging. Made on a sustainable local farm and hand-poured for a consistent burn, this candle is made from natural wax infused with warm mandarin and cool mint, making it perfect for lighting up Boxing Day’s downtime.

GBP 20 www.forgetmenotandgreen.com

LITTLE BLACK BOOK

WEB DIRECTORY FOR ISSUE 44 OF THE CULTURED TRAVELLER MAGAZINE

A

&BEYOND PUNAKHA

RIVER LODGE

➤ www.andbeyond.com

ADAM HANDLING

➤ www.adamhandling.co.uk

ART BASEL MIAMI BEACH

➤ www.artbasel.com/miami-beach

B

BALI SILENT RETREAT

➤ www.balisilentretreat.com

BARCELÓ FUNCHAL OLDTOWN

➤ www.barcelo.com

BARRANQUILLA CARNIVAL

➤ www. carnavaldebarranquilla.org

BRITISH BOXERS

➤ https://british-boxers.com

BURNING THE CLOCKS

➤ https://samesky.co.uk

C

CAPELLA SYDNEY

➤ https://capellahotels.com

CARTAGENA MUSIC FESTIVAL

➤ www.cartagenamusicfestival.com

CHICHIBU YOMATSURI

➤ www.chichibu-matsuri.jp/en

CÔTE BY MAURO COLAGRECO

➤ www.cotebkk.com

D

DANAE SUITES

➤ www.danaesuites.com

DEN LOUNGEWEAR

➤ www.denloungewear.com

DJAKARTA WAREHOUSE PROJECT

➤ https://dwpfest.com

E

ELVIS AND KRESSE

➤ www.elviaandkresse.com

F

FÊTE DES LUMIÈRES

➤ www.fetedeslumieres.lyon.fr

FRANKFURT CHRISTMAS MARKET ➤ www.frankfurt-tourismus.de

G

GAL OYA LODGE ➤ www.galoyalodge.com

HHAWAI’I VOLCANOES

NATIONAL PARK ➤ www.nps.gov/havo

HOGMANAY

➤ www. edinburghshogmanay.com

K

KEW GARDENS ➤ www.kew.org

L

LONAI ➤ https://lonaistudio.com

M

MAROMA

➤ www.belmond.com

MASATO JONES

➤ www.masato.co.uk

MASSERIA MOROSETA ➤ www.masseriamoroseta.it

MATHMOS ➤ https://mathmos.com

MIKRA THIRA ➤ https://mikrathira.com

O

OLIVIA MADIGAN-SHEA

➤ www.oliviamadiganshea.com

P

POPPY LISSIMAN

➤ https://uk.poppylissiman.com

R

RAFFLES UDAIPUR ➤ www.raffles.com/udaipur

RED CARNATION HOTELS ➤ https://redcarnationhotels.com

RENAISSANCE PORTO LAPA HOTEL ➤ www.marriott.com

ROSEWOOD MUNICH ➤ www.rosewoodhotels.com

RIO CARNIVAL ➤ www. rio-carnival.net

RISE FESTIVAL

➤ www.rise-festival.com

SSIX SENSES KRABEY ISLAND

➤ www.sixsenseskrabeyisland.com

SIX SENSES ROME ➤ www.sixsenses.com

SO/ UPTOWN DUBAI

➤ www.so-hotels.com/uptown-dubai

ST. KITTS–NEVIS CARNIVAL

➤ https://skncarnival.com

STRADOM HOUSE ➤ www.stradomhouse.com

TTHE BPM FESTIVAL ➤ www.thebpmfestival.com

THE INN AT MATTEI’S TAVERN ➤ https://aubergeresorts.com

THE OYSTER BOX ➤ https://oysterboxhotel.com

UUP HELLY AA ➤ www.uphellyaa.org

V

VINTERJAZZ ➤ www. jazz.dk

VIRGIN HOTELS NEW YORK ➤ https://virginhotels.com

VOLCANO HOUSE ➤ www.hawaiivolcanohouse.com

Z

ZANDRA RHODES ➤ https://zandrarhodes.com

TRAVEL TIPS FROM THE TOP

zandra rhodes

NOT ONE TO ‘TRAVEL LIGHT’, THE ICONIC BRITISH FASHION AND TEXTILE DESIGNER HAS RECENTLY BEEN CRISS-CROSSING THE PLANET TO DONATE SELECTED PIECES FROM HER ARCHIVE TO MUSEUMS EVERYWHERE FROM CHINA TO THE UNITED STATES

LUGGAGE I don’t do ‘travelling light’. At an airport, you will spot me pushing a trolley, usually stacked with a couple of bright and colourful Samsonite suitcases, plus a hanging garment bag from Briggs and Riley. My precious silkchiffon evening dresses don’t fare well stuffed into a suitcase! I always label all bags with my destination address - you can never be too cautious.

CARRY-ON My Samsonite cabin bag is filled with my address book, Exacompta diary, a Kokuyo sketchbook, Tombow water-based brush pens and my trusty MacBook Air laptop – I never know when I might have 10 minutes in the lounge to catch-up on emails! Sometimes on a long trip, there are fabulous cloud structures to draw in my sketchbook, which often find their way into my printed

textile designs. I first discovered Kokuyo rice paper sketchbooks in 1971 in Japan.

COMFORT I usually travel in comfy Kitty Joseph pleated velvet trousers (I have them in multiple bright colours) and a lightweight Zandra Rhodes floaty printed top. I finish the look with my Andrew Logan jewels, which are minimal effort but very chic, even if I do have to spend 10 minutes taking them all off before going through the metal detectors!

IN-FLIGHT I am very low maintenance when travelling. I rarely take my make-up off at night, let alone when I am on an airplane! On board, I like to catch-up on the latest films. The last flight I took to Canada gave me time to watch a few classics, including The Godfather

BODY CLOCK I think the trick is to turn your watch to your destination’s time as soon as you get on board and then act accordingly. I try get some rest but don’t put pressure on myself.

HYDRATION I don’t drink alcohol which I believe helps when I’m in the air. Water or tea for me please!

GADGETS I am never without a power bank, as my phone battery seems to drain so quickly. My fabulous assistant just gave me some AirPods, since I have begun to listen to audiobooks and the sky is the perfect place to unwind with a book. I recently enjoyed listening to Hilary Mantel’s The Mirror & the Light I often pop into MAC at the airport to look for additions to my makeup bag.

JET-LAG Most of the time I am travelling for business and when I land I am straight into my working day. As tiring at this can be, it also resets my body-clock to the correct time. When returning home, you will find me in my studio soon after I land!

FOOD & DRINK People often have something negative to say about airplane food but I don't mind it. I do however eat most things without complaint!

CAN’T TRAVEL WITHOUT My bright pink neck pillow.

IMAGE: RAY OKUDZETO

LAKEFRONT LUXURY