SUMMER 2020
ISSN 2052-059X
ISSUE 35
Discover the finest contemporary silver and jewellery from over 300 designer-makers. www.thegoldsmithsdirectory.co.uk
Cocktail set: Martyn Pugh
IN-tro
THIS ISSUE IS ALL ABOUT
CHANGE
Like it or not, we’ve all been through it over the past few months. Some of it has been good – we’ve had less time to be wrapped up in being ‘busy’ and could actually focus on well-earned rest and repair. Some of it has been bad – the uncertainty, the isolation, the fear. And some of it has been downright creative – hands up who’s used lockdown to learn a new skill? Mostly though, it’s been a time for solid reflection. Everything we do has had to be re-evaluated. From the way we work to the way we work out, from who we can see to how we can interact, keeping socially distanced instead of socialising – it’s been tough going. And while things will no doubt continue to be different going forward – for the immediate future at least – this time of change is a time for growth. In this issue we speak to the movers and shakers from several bars around the world about how they’re adapting to the challenges brought on by Covid-19. Has it been tough? Damn straight it has; in fact, it’s been the mother of all roller-coasters. But they’re all holding on tight, making the necessary adjustments and braving out the ride. Read the In My Experience stories from Indra Kantono, Julie Reiner, Iain McPherson, Ram Yadav, Barney Toy, Lelos Georgopoulos and Luke Whearty and you’ll be inspired by their honest accounts. Elsewhere, Steve Schneider announces the big change that he’s made in the past few months, we look at what we all did when we had to swap going out with staying in (clue: either make cocktails at home or dial up for them to be delivered), and we check in with bartenders and brands about their lockdown initiatives. Deano Moncrieffe talks about his plans to tackle racism in the industry, we hear from UKHospitality Chief Executive Kate Nicholls on how the union she heads up has made a difference in times of need, and Rick Gent, one of our readers, shares the space where he’s been enjoying a cocktail instead of going out to the bar. Yes, 2020 has been challenging – but please, let’s not focus on the negative. As you will read on the following pages, there are plenty of wonderful, creative businesses out there that really need our support. Let’s all drink to their health and very prosperous future. Be mindful. Be supportive. Be safe.
Ms S & Mr G thecocktaillovers.com
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The Cocktail Lovers - 3
IN-gredients
7. IN-the know
25 reasons to be a cocktail lover this season
Acting our shoe size, supporting the cause and sinking the pink – things we’re looking forward to doing now that lockdown is over
13. IN-the know The drink
In praise of the cocktail of the past few months
15. IN-the know The etiquette
How distilleries are helping us clean up our act
17. IN-the know The bottle
When we couldn’t get to the bars, the bars came to us by way of a new, elevated selection of bottled cocktails
18. IN-the spotlight A force for change
We talk to Kate Nicholls, CEO of UKHospitality, to find out how the coronavirus pandemic has affected the hospitality industry and how she has pushed for change
IN-my experience First-hand accounts from bar owners, operators and managers on the impact Covid-19 has had on their bars
20. Indira Kantono, Jigger & Pony, Singapore 24. Julie Reiner, Clover Club, NYC 32. Iain McPherson, Panda & Sons, Edinburgh 36. Luke Whearty, BYRDI, Melbourne 49. Lelos Georgopolous, The Clumsies, Athens 50. Ram Yadav, Nyte – Drinkery & Kitchen, Bangalore 61. Yolanda Evans, Professional cocktail drinker 65. Barney Toy, Clipper, Auckland
26. IN-the spotlight New rules of engagement
Virginia Miller checks in to nine bars around the world to find out their plans for the future
34. IN-the spotlight Black to basics
Deano Moncrieffe shares his experience of racism in the drinks industry and how he intends to change it
38. IN-the mix Cupboard love
How the pros switched the back bar for the pantry to create lockdown cocktails at home
40. IN-dulge
Kitchen kit to the rescue
Rethink the need for expensive bar kit and reach for your kitchen tools instead
42. IN-focus This one is personal
Steve Schneider has made the transition from swashbuckling bad boy to sharp-minded business brain. We check in to hear about his latest adventure
4 - The Cocktail Lovers
IN-gredients
44. IN-focus
Editors: Sandrae Lawrence Gary Sharpen
Home is where the bar is
Reader Rick Gent extols the virtues of drinking in his home bar
46. IN-focus
Bartenders take the initiative
Kate Malczewski highlights a few of the bright ideas bartenders have instigated while they haven’t been able to work
52. IN-focus In good company
Clinton Cawood finds out how drinks companies have been lending their support
55. IN-focus Lots of bottle
The rise and rise of the pre-mixed cocktail
58. IN-formed Mains & Martinis
Davies and Brook make it nice at Claridge’s hotel in London
62. IN-formed Word up
News, views and reviews from the cocktail front
66. IN-ternational Bella Roma!
Where to go, who to see and what to drink in the Eternal City
The Cocktail Lovers are proud winners of Best Cocktail & Spirits Publication, Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Awards 2016 and The London Evening Standard Progress 1000 – London’s Most Influential People 2015 and 2017. Also shortlisted for Best Food & Drinks Publication in the British Society of Magazine Editors (BSME) Awards 2019
Office Manager: Tereza Singh Sub-editor: Laura Hill Creative Director: James Cheverton at Burnt Studio burntstudio.com Contributors: Clinton Cawood Yolanda Evans Rick Gent Lelos Georgopoulos Indra Kantono Kate Malczewski Iain McPherson Virginia Miller Julie Reiner Barney Toy Luke Whearty Ram Yadav For all editorial and advertising enquiries, please contact: mail@thecocktaillovers.com T: 020 7242 2546 thecocktaillovers.com Printed by Stephens & George Distributed by Gold Key Media Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of The Cocktail Lovers Magazine without prior permission from the editors is strictly prohibited. The Cocktail Lovers Issue No. 35 Summer 2020
All details of bars featured in this issue were correct at time of going to press. Please see individual websites for up-to-date information.
The Cocktail Lovers magazine is published by The Cocktail Lovers Ltd in London, UK PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY
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Contributors
Kate Malczewski
Clinton Cawood
Kate is an Ohio-born, London-based writer and editor. She trained in experimental theatre in a sleepy town in Connecticut and edited cookbooks at Food & Wine magazine in New York City before moving to the UK to report on all things drinks for Imbibe. She’s now a full-time freelance journalist with a focus on cocktails, spirits, sake and the bar industry.
Clinton has been writing about drinks since landing in the UK in 2006 from his native South Africa, where he’d already put in more than a few hours on both sides of the bar. He now covers all aspects of the industry for a number of publications, with a particular interest in spirits, cocktails and bars. He’s partial to all things agave, and dependent on good coffee.
In this issue she highlights some of the many bright ideas that bartenders have devised to occupy their time while they were away from work. See page 46.
Drinks brands who came to the rescue of bars, charities and bartenders during the pandemic come under the spotlight in his In Good Company feature. See page 52.
Virginia Miller
Yolanda Evans
As well as founding The Perfect Spot in 2007, Virginia Miller has also been Zagat San Francisco Editor, San Francisco Guardian Critic and Table8 National Editor. Her work regularly appears in Liquor.com, Where Traveler, Haute Living and Time Out, where she covers dining, spirits and cocktails.
Yolanda Evans is a travel and cocktail writer based in Berlin. Her work has appeared in Zora, Forbes, Punch, Travel + Leisure, Wine Enthusiast, Lonely Planet and Thrillist. She travels the world to drink and seek out obscure booze knowledge. As she says, “It’s a hard life, but someone’s gotta do it.”
Read her feature on the new rules of engagement in nine bars around the world on page 26.
For this issue Yolanda writes about how she feels about venturing back into bars post lockdown. See page 61.
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25
IN-the know
REASONS TO BE A COCKTAIL LOVER THIS SEASON Zinging up our Negronis, holding our own and taking cover – just a few of the things we’re looking forward to now that we can get out and about
N1 o
Celebrating creativity It’s been months since we’ve felt confident to travel freely or been able to step into a museum or gallery space, so why not combine the lot in one big cultural hit? ‘Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk’ is our pick for this season. With its striking mix of artistry and theatre and delightful blend of classic and contemporary, it’s not too dissimilar to the creativity found in our favourite bars. Toast the reopening of both with something suitably stylish, inspired by Japan. We love the New Humans menu at Drink Kong, Rome. Find out more on page 67.
Kimono Times, Akira Times, 2017. © Akira Times
‘Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk’ is at the V&A from 27 August to 25 October. Post-lockdown rules apply. vam.ac.uk
IN-the know
No 2
03
Zinging up our Negronis
…and speaking of zing: a big shout-out to the World of Zing Craft Cocktail Travel Pack – four 50ml serves of your fave summer sips, including Persian Lime & Nori Margarita. Fruit, spice and a pop of booze – it sure gets the thumbs up from us worldofzing.com
Three words: Jaffa. Cake. Gin. Just saying… Available from masterofmalt.com
04
SIX
Taking cover Summer showers don’t feel half as bad with a Bubbles & Fizz Umbrella. Fact. sophieallport.com
SEVEN
Stopping everything for tea Give the tea-making ritual the respect it deserves with the Float Tea Lantern. More than a thing of great beauty, it keeps your beverage hot for hours while bathing the room with a warming glow. Divine. molodesign.com
Holding our own
05
Calling in the big guns
If you’ve had to reschedule your big day, make it count in your favour by getting Tyson Buhler from Death & Co., New York to develop a personalised selection of five cocktails in honour of your special day. He’ll provide all the information you and your caterer need to bring the drinks to life, including batching instructions, ingredients and serving details. Fabulous stuff! deathandcompanymarket.com
8 - The Cocktail Lovers
EIGHT
Is it a clutch? Is it a flask? Stop with the questions already, the Brümate Holographic Glitter Spirit Flask is both. One for disco divas everywhere. brumate.com
60
...or there’s the Ember Mug Set the preferred temperature of your favourite hot beverage and the mug will keep it there for up to three hours. Nifty. ember.com
N9 o
Looking for a new brew for summer? Try Fortnum & Mason’s Bloody Mary Tea. Packed with the flavours of fresh tomato pieces, chilli flakes and black peppercorns, it’s just the ticket for a booze-free brunch. fortnumandmason.com
IN-the know
10
Acting our shoe size
We know it’s silly but after the tough times we’ve all been through, we deserve a laugh. Bring on the chuckles with this Wasted Bottle Stopper from animicausa.com
13
Could this be the ideal bedtime companion? Possibly. The Quiet Glass is designed to live up to its name, but we love it because it’s weighted so you can’t knock it over. Clever or what? littlesolves.com
N 15 o
Playing safe
Nervous about drinking from glasses while you’re out? Pack this metal straw and cleaner combo and you’re all set. mollieandfred.co.uk
Mixing up our scents Cocktail-inspired summer fragrance anyone? Choose from a wide selection including White Sangria, Frozen Margarita and Piña Colada. Available from thelibraryoffragrance.eu
14
Embracing summer
Cocktail ice pops are go! Get yours from waveyice.co.uk
TWELVE Seeking glass perfection
ELEVEN
…but if you want something more design-ery, allow us to point you in the direction of the Bump collection by Tom Dixon. For when you want to make a statement. tomdixon.net
SIXTEEN
Supporting the cause If there’s a more poignant message on a can or bottle right now, we’ve yet to see it. Black is Beautiful stout beer, available from more than 600 breweries worldwide. Find out more at blackisbeautiful.beer
17
Joining the seltzer revolution Everyone’s going bonkers for hard seltzers. The latest in the line-up of fruit-tinged, alcoholinfused sparkling waters is Clean & Press from BrewDog. Weighing in at 90 calories and 5% abv, it’s the lighter way to pack a punch. brewdog.com
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IN-the know
Sipping while we soak
NINETEEN
18
Take your bath-time chill-out up a notch with a tub-friendly tipple holder. The Victoria + Albert Tombolo Bath Rack is the absolute bomb. sanctuary-bathrooms.co.uk
Calling in the big guns Upgrade your soirees in an instant by enlisting the cocktail-making skills of a world-class bartender. Take your pick from the best in the biz based everywhere from the UK to Thailand. globalbartending.com
20
TWENTY TWO
21
Indulging in boozy chocs Gin-flavoured truffles anyone? Actually, forget it – these ones aren’t for sharing! Drumshanbo Gunpowder Irish Gin Milk Chocolate Truffles, harveynichols.com
Taking cover Old cushion covers out; in their place come these graphic print bottles. Classy and kitsch in one hit. conranshop.co.uk
23
Rubbing it in We always knew alcohol would come to the rescue. Get your hand sanitiser from an independent distillery such as 58gin.com
Perking up our coffee
What do you get if you add fermented agave wine to 100% Arabica Colombian cold brew coffee? A 12.5% abv taste sensation, that’s what! Not for the faint-hearted. cafeagave.com
24
Feeling fruity
We’re aiming to get at least three of our five a day from the fab freshly squeezed non-alcoholic cocktails and fruit boxes from the aptly named The Fruit Don. Follow his moves on Instagram @thefruitdon
10 - The Cocktail Lovers
TWENTY FIVE Sinking the pink According to rapper Post Malone, his recently launched Maison No. 9 rosé wine is “for when you want to get a little fancy”. With 50,000 bottles snapped up in the two-day pre-sale, it looks like we all want to get in on the act. maison9wine.com
IN-formative
KEEP YOUR DISTANCE. KEEP SAFE. UK government guidance is that people should remain twometres apart where possible. If not, one-metre plus.
IN-formative
KEEP COVERED. KEEP SAFE. Wearing a face mask or suitable face covering is mandatory in public spaces.
IN-the know
THE DRINK All hail the Quarantini, the cocktail that tout le monde has been mixing up throughout lockdown. Alcohol is a prerequisite, as is some form of citrus (as a nod to immunity-boosting vitamin C, natch). As for the rest of the ingredients? Take your pick from whatever you have to hand – it’s your drink, your way, drunk whilst in isolation. Need more kitchen cocktails inspo? See page 38. Glass by Vinegar & Brown Paper, holly.co
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