The Cocktail Lovers Magazine Issue 45 Summer 2023

INGREDIENTS FOR MORE THAN GREAT DRINKS THE COCKTAIL LOVERS.COM SUMMER 2023

ISSUE 45

ISSN 2052-059X

Farm-to-glass bars

Collaborative, community-driven, flavourfocused: farms + bars = big win all round PAGE 40

Seek, find, drink

The foragers partnering up with bars to deliver home-grown cocktail experiences PAGE 50

Cheers! Raising a glass to neighbourhood bars The joys of supporting your local PAGE 54

HOME IS WHERE THE HARVEST IS

Five brands championing locality in their bottles

DIAL UP YOUR SERVES WITH

A PERFECT ALCOHOL-FREE OPTION OR A SWITCH UP TO YOUR CLASSIC COCKTAIL MIXERS A M O L A P D B C E N U T IN a or your

Pour 35ml of tequilaernative favourite alcohol altr ice. Add a into a tall glass ove pefruit, top squeeze of fresh grafruit & Mint. with INTUNE Grape

WELCOME

hello cocktail lover!

When it comes to the idea of eating and drinking local, there are three venues that really captured my attention early on.

The first was Konstam at the Prince Albert. Talk about forward-thinking, this one opened in 2006, on the King’s Cross Road in London of all places. It was an ambitious project by an ambitious chef, Oliver Rowe, who had a vision to only use produce grown or reared within the area covered by the London tube network. It was a revelation. Who knew such a thing was even conceivable? Let alone could be so bloody tasty. For me, it was a real game changer.

So when Matt Whiley opened his bar Scout, again in London but 11 years later, I was already sold. I knew that his vision for an ever-changing menu of closed-loop drinks, all made from ingredients foraged in the British Isles, was more than doable.

Particularly with his creative cocktail credentials. And he didn’t disappoint.

The next standout was Vijay Mudaliar’s Native in Singapore. Opening the bar in 2016, he cast his net wide, making magic with Asian spirits and ingredients.

These days an increasing number of bartenders are doing what Rowe, Whiley and Mudaliar did before them – taking pride in their local produce while delivering fresh experiences for their guests. In this issue we go from Australia to Peru, Brazil to Sweden to shine a light on the bars, bartenders and brands who are championing locality in their offerings. If you’re in Sydney, Lima, São Paulo or Umeå, we urge you to seek them out, but better still, resolve to support drinks businesses close to home.

MS S

How do you define local? It might mean your neighbourhood, your home town or, perhaps, something further afield. For me it’s about an emotional connection.

When I was growing up, there were a handful of nearby shops that covered most of my family’s basic needs: butcher, baker, greengrocer, fishmonger, general store and one or two others.

Importantly, the people who worked in them actually knew all their customers. The relationship went beyond practically suppling goods to providing a part of the glue that held the surrounding area together.

When I was older and started to explore more of London, despite its size, the whole city started to feel local as I felt at home in so many parts of it.

Both examples illustrate my definition of local. I felt an emotional connection to the little shops of my childhood. And as an adult I feel an emotional connection to the buildings, parks, shops, restaurants and, of course, bars of my home city.

There are even places further afield where I feel like an honorary local (I’m looking at you Athens).

So it’s a joy to welcome you to our ‘Local’ issue.

We’re exploring people, bars, products and more that in some way have that all-important emotional bond with their surroundings. I hope you’ll feel that special connection to the places celebrated in these pages as much as I do.

MR G

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contents 34 Local heroes

08

From Australia to Sweden, China to France, Yael Weisberg checks out the bartenders who are keeping the ingredients in their cocktails close to home

Amuse bouche

News, views, reviews and interviews, including the local ingredients bartenders love, where they’re drinking in Edinburgh and Sotol, could it be the next big thing?

38

18 11 local reasons

Born in the UK

to be a cocktail lover… Creating a buzz, becoming a gin-thusiast and supporting your neighbourhood bar – just three of the ways to drink local this season

Whiskies, gins, a cider and a rum, all born and raised in the UK

22 In the hotseat

Fabio La Pietra, Creative Director at SubAstor, São Paulo

24 Snack like a local

40 Farm-to-glass bars

Salty, crispy, moreish – the nibbles they serve around the world to keep your drinks company

The bars building communities by partnering up with local farms.

By Forest Collins

50 Seek, find, drink

Millie Milliken finds how the smartest bars are teaming up with foragers to find fresh, new drinking experiences

54 Cheers!

Raising a glass to neighbourhood bars

In celebration of the venues close to home

28

56

Yes, he Cannes

The cocktail girl & guy

Destination Côte D’Azur to learn how Emanuele Balestra collaborates with local businesses

He’s in Sicily, she’s in London – both in search of the latest projects from their favourite bar operators

32 Home-grown spirits

In praise of the true taste of terroir.

By Clinton Cawood

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59 Liquid intelligence

Why local honey is the bee’s knees, with Jack Sotti

44 Home is where the harvest is Shining a light on the homegrown ingredients starring in some of our favourite bottles

Issue 45 Summer 2023 Editors Sandrae Lawrence Gary Sharpen Creative director Scott Bentley – Bentley Creative Copy editing Laura Hill Cover photography Gary Smith Contributors Clinton Cawood, Forest Collins, Holly Graham, Juliette Laroui, Jim Meehan, Millie Milliken, François Monti, Jack Sotti, Yael Weisberg

For all editorial and advertising enquiries, please contact:

(+44) 020 7242 2546 mail@thecocktaillovers.com

Find us:

TheCocktailLovers.com @cocktaillovers meet.thecocktaillovers @thecocktaillovers

P EX E LS B I LL VEL A PATI Ñ O

Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of The Cocktail Lovers Magazine without prior permission from the editors is strictly prohibited.

60

62

66

Mains & Martinis

The flavours of Lima

Community matters

Three restaurants where the cocktails are more than a match for the food

Why the capital of Peru is topping the taste charts

Paradiso’s Zero Waste Lab has big ideas for the future

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All details of bars featured in this issue were correct at time of going to press. Please see individual websites for up-to-date information.

The Cocktail Lovers Magazine is printed in the UK by Stephens & George.

The Cocktail Lovers ISSN 2052-059X © 2023. Published by The Cocktail Lovers Ltd. London, UK

PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY

CONTRIBUTORS

FOREST COLLINS

CLINTON CAWOOD

YAEL WEISBERG

MILLIE MILLIKEN

Forest Collins, founded 52martinis in 2007 to chronicle her search for the best cocktail bars in Paris and cover spirits news from France. She is the creator of the iOS app Paris Cocktails and host of the radio show and podcast, Paris Cocktail Talk.

Forest is the Academy Chair for France for The World’s 50 Best Bars and President of the France chapter of Les Dames d’Escoffier. She’s also a pretty fun drinking partner.

Clinton has been writing about drinks since arriving in the UK from his native South Africa, having already put in time on both sides of the bar. Formerly deputy editor of Imbibe (UK) magazine, he now covers all aspects of the drinks industry for a variety of magazines, with a focus on spirits, cocktails and bars. He is partial to all things agave, and dependent on goodquality coffee.

In her capacity as a strategist, Yael has 20 years’ extensive experience working across sectors such as premium spirits, consumer goods, professional services and travel. A self-confessed professional nerd, she prides herself on delivering fresh insights and inspiring content whatever she turns her hand to. Including one of her other passions – writing.

One of the busiest freelancers on the circuit, Millie is an award-winning drinks and hospitality journalist who contributes to a host of publications including Foodism, The Caterer, Evening Standard, Supper, Whisky Magazine and Club Oenologique. She is also head of content at OurWhisky Foundation and community manager for The Drinks Trust charity’s member platform, the Drinks Community.

Home-grown spirits: page 32

Farm-to-glass bars: page 40

In this issue: Rather aptly, Forest highlights some of the bars around the world that are teaming up with local farms.

Local heroes: page 34

In this issue: Yael checks in with six international bartenders who are shining a light on the array of ingredients produced in their respective parts of the world.

In this issue: Clinton singles out some of the spirits brands who draw on their local surrounds for their unique characteristics and flavour.

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Seek, find, drink: page 50

In this issue: Millie learns how foragers and bartenders are working together to create seasonal, sustainable drinks.

APERItiVO

Opening up the palate for the spirited stories ahead…

PAG E 9

PAG E 1 0

PAG E 1 4

PAG E 1 6

THE LOCAL INGREDIENTS BARTENDERS LOVE

FIVE WAYS WITH CHILLI

CREATE A STIR

THE NEXT BIG THING?

Including figs, hoja santa and pineapple weed

Blenders at the ready, it’s summer! Three simple recipes from around the world, mixed to perfection in minutes

Spice up your life (and your drinks) with our recipes using fresh, dried and flaked chillies

PAG E 1 4

LIQUID VACAY…

Explore the flavours of Cambodia in the two new cocktail menus at Sora at Rosewood Phnom Penh

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From the land that brought you tequila and mezcal, comes sotol

NEWS, VIEWS, REVIEWS, INTERVIEWS & HOW-TOS

The PLACE Juliana

It’s only been open for a year and already Juliana in Guayaquil, Ecuador is making big waves on the global cocktail scene. Little wonder really. Sarah Ruiz’s respect for Ecuador’s farming communities and whimsical but clever ways of pushing local and indigenous produce (like macambo beans, chontacuro mealworms and motilón) to the forefront of the cocktail menu have resulted in the team picking up the Siete Misterios Best Cocktail Menu Award from The World’s 50 Best Bars. Juliana, we salute you.

For more bars championing local ingredients, see page 34.

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APERITIVO Hemali Bendre, The Bombay Canteen, Mumbai

Katie Rouse, Couch Stirchley, Birmingham

“My favourite local ingredient to use in cocktails is sweet limes – they’re delicious, with a sweet yet tart flavour.

For me, there's nothing better and fresher in a cocktail.”

“Pineapple weed. Part of the chamomile family.

I love it as it smells like really zesty and floral pineapple and is a great way to mimic tropical flavours through an English ingredient.

It’s best used closely after picking as the scent depletes very quickly.”

Eric Van Beek, Handshake Speakeasy, Mexico City

“I like using our local tomatoes as well as hoja santa, a Mexican peppery leaf commonly used in cooking.

In the case of the latter ingredient, nine times out of 10 it provides the guest with a flavour experience that’s completely new to them.”

The local ingredients bartenders love Arron Grendon, Tropic City, Bangkok

“With their tangy, sweet yet acidic taste, Thai pineapples are considered the most juicy and flavourful in the world. They feature in our bestselling cocktails such as Welcome To The Jungle and our favourite classic, Piña Colada.”

Sabrina Traubner, European Bartender School, Cape Town

“Figs are very popular in South Africa because they offer so much variety depending on the variant used and how the flavour is extracted. They taste like sweet berries and have a lovely vibrancy to them when used fresh. When heat is added, the flavour gets more concentrated – it’s a lovely ingredient to use in cocktails to add a darker berry and honey taste, while still having its own unique identifiable character.”

9 THE COCK TAIL LOVERS / ISSUE 45

APERITIVO

FIVE WAYS WITH

CHILLI Spirits

Turn up the heat with fresh, dried, flaked and powdered chillies to bring extra oomph to your cocktails

Ingredients 2-3 medium chillies (jalapeño for a mild flavour; habanero for more heat) 500ml vodka/tequila/ bourbon Method Halve the chillies, add to a sterilised bottle or jar, then pour the alcohol over. Check for taste – from a few hours to several days. Once infused to your liking, discard the chillies. Use as a base for your drinks.

OIL Ingredients 500ml extra-virgin olive oil 5 tsp mixed dried chilli flakes 2-3 whole dried chillies Method Heat the olive oil and chilli flakes in a pan over a low heat for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to cool.

Pour into a sterilised bottle.

Add the whole dried chilies, then seal. Use a drop to top your cocktails.

Ice lollies Ingredients 500g mango flesh Juice and zest of 2 limes 140g golden caster sugar ¼ tsp hot chilli powder 500ml tequila

Syrup SALT Ingredients 1 tbsp kosher/fine flaked salt 1 tbsp chilli powder 1 tsp ancho chilli powder ½ tsp smoked paprika Method Mix all the ingredients together and use to rim/ half rim the glass for your Margarita.

Ingredients 350g caster sugar 350g water Pared zest of 4 limes, cut into strips 2 red chillies, deseeded and sliced Method Heat the sugar and water and allow to dissolve. Add the lime zest and chillies.

Simmer for a couple of minutes then allow to cool. Place the syrup into sterilised bottles. Infuse for at least 24 hours. To use, add to ginger beer for a tasty non-alcoholic tipple, or add to tequila and top with tonic.

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Method Place the mango flesh in a blender and process until smooth. Pour through a fine mesh strainer. Add the remaining ingredients and mix together until smooth. Divide the mixture between 10 ice lolly moulds and place in the freezer. Chill for 30-45 minutes or until just starting to freeze, then add lolly sticks. Freeze for at least 4 hours and you have your cocktail on a stick.

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THE COCKTAIL LOVERS

OUR SELECT SIX SERVES

Featuring the No.1 Negroni, straight up

INGREDIENTS FOR MORE THAN GREAT DRINKS THE COCKTAIL LOVERS.COM SPRING 2023

ISSUE 44

ISSN 2052-059X

THE COCKTAIL LOVERS

INGREDIENTS FOR MORE THAN GREAT DRINKS

Celebrating 60 years as a bartender

THE COCKTAIL LOVERS.COM

Keeping up with Peter Dorelli, still shaking things up in the bar world at 82

SPRING 2023

OUR SELECT SIX SERVES

Featuring the No.1 Negroni, straight up

ISSUE 44

ISSN 2052-059X

PAGE 28

Celebrating 60 years as a bartender

Size is everything

Keeping up with Peter Dorelli, still shaking things up in the bar world at 82

From the dinkiest three-seaters to crowdpleasing 300+ capacity bars, we’ve got your every mood covered

THE COCKTAIL LOVERS

PAGE 28

Size is everything

PAGE 38

From the dinkiest three-seaters to crowdpleasing 300+ capacity bars, we’ve got your every mood covered

Playing by numbers

Lifting the lid on the figures that count: how to mind your ABVs

INGREDIENTS FOR MORE THAN GREAT DRINKS THE COCKTAIL LOVERS.COM SPRING 2023

PAGE 38

ISSN 2052-059X

Celebrating 60 years as a bartender

Playing by numbers

PAGE 34

OUR SELECT SIX SERVES

Featuring the No.1 Negroni, straight up

ISSUE 44

Keeping up with Peter Dorelli, still shaking things up in the bar world at 82

Lifting the lid on the figures that count: how to mind your ABVs

PAGE 28

Size is everything

PAGE 34

From the dinkiest three-seaters to crowdpleasing 300+ capacity bars, we’ve got your every mood covered PAGE 38

Playing by numbers

Lifting the lid on the figures that count: how to mind your ABVs PAGE 34

ABVs, anniversaries, age statements, percentages, small bars and high volume…

ABVs, anniversaries, age statements, percentages, small bars and high volume…

THIS IS

ABVs, anniversaries, age statements, percentages, small bars and high volume…

THIS IS

THIS IS

TCL44_Book.indb 1

TCL44_Book.indb 1

TCL44_Book.indb 1

17/04/2023 17:07

17/04/2023 17:07

For details of how to subscribe, set up gift subscriptions and get back issues visit our website or scan the QR code thecocktaillovers.com/magazine

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APERITIVO WHERE THEY’RE DRINKING IN…

Edinburgh Five fantastic bars to put your palate through its paces

PANDA & SONS

LAMPLIGHTERS AT GLENEAGLES TOWNHOUSE

On the surface it’s a fun-times barbershop owned by a family of pandas, but behind the whimsical backstory, there’s even more creativity at play. Particularly in the on-site lab where owner Iain McPherson and his team dream up all manner of cocktail nerdery. Their latest innovation is the groundbreaking ‘sous pression’ method, which cleverly infuses flavour and softens alcohol, resulting in a smooth, silky finish. pandaandsons.com

Okay, you need to either be a member or staying at Gleneagles Townhouse to enjoy its rooftop bar, but given the splendour of the building and its oh-so-fabulous fixtures and fittings, that’s not exactly a hardship. Perfect at any time – in the day for sitting outside and admiring the views and in the evening for sinking into the lush pastel seating – it’s one of our new favourites. gleneagles.com/townhouse/eat-drink/lamplighters

HEY PALU

COMMONS CLUB

Recently awarded the Best Bar in Scotland at the CLASS Bar Awards, Hey Palu is where Italian aperitivo culture speaks with a distinct Scottish lilt.

Husband and wife team Alex and Rachel Palu(mbo) have done a wonderful job injecting a shot of retro-esque vibes into the pared-back modern setting.

What to drink? All of it! heypalu.com

NAUTICUS

The good folk at Virgin Hotels Edinburgh describe their bar as “a menu designed with locality in mind”. And to prove it, drinks like Breakfast In The Highlands with Glenfiddich 15 Single Malt Whisky, brown butter, toasted oat Amontillado sherry and Edinburgh Honey Co. Heather Honey feature proudly on the menu. The food is equally patriotic and just as delicious. Go taste for yourself. @commonsclubedi

Another gem from Iain McPherson’s stable, we’ve included this one in the city’s Leith port district because it’s perfect for our theme. The focus is on produce made in Scotland – or made by a Scottish company or one with Scottish links – and the bar’s name comes from Leith’s historical ties with shipping and global trade. nauticusbar.co.uk

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LIQUID VACAY

Off on your travels? Here are a few spots to hit up for local flava PHNOM PENH

Sora at Rosewood

The new menu includes 12 cocktails, each showcasing the complexities of quintessentially Cambodian ingredients such as red Kampot pepper and banana flower. rosewoodhotels. com/en/phnompenh

CREATE A STIR! Fire up your blender, it’s time to get summery!

Sgroppino

25ml vodka 75ml prosecco 2 scoops lemon sorbet Pinch of lemon zest, to garnish Method: Blend all the ingredients for 5 seconds, then pour into a chilled flute glass. Garnish with a pinch of grated lemon zest.

Spritz it: Replace the prosecco with rosé prosecco.

Frosé

PORTO

MARGATE

REYKJAVIK

MEXICO CITY

Flôr

No.42

Tölt, The Reykjavik Edition

Tlecān

Award-winning chef Nuno Mendes’ Porto outpost, where Portugal’s global culture and fresh flavours are front and centre of the upbeat cocktail menu. florporto.com

Pietro Collina’s new menu here features local spirits, mead and ale, as well as berries, fruit and hops sourced from neighbouring producers. guesthousehotels. co.uk/no-42-margate

Onehelluva stylish mezcaleria curating and selling the finest mezcal from artisanal producers.

The decor is stunning, as are the cocktails. Go be inspired. tlecan.com

Recently reopened, Tölt has focused its menu on Icelandic culture with highlights including the Dillicious Eve. editionhotels.com/ reykjavik

The person Emil Åreng

Emil Åreng has always championed the produce of his native Sweden in his cocktails, but Facit bar in Umeå takes that passion even further. Everyone from the best architects and interior designers to the finest producers and bartenders in the country have been cherry-picked to bring the ultimate Swedish taste sensation the immaculate space.

Find out more on page 35

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150ml rosé wine 50g frozen strawberries 15ml sugar syrup 150g ice Halved strawberry, to garnish Method: Blend all the ingredients, including the ice, for 10 seconds. Pour into a wine glass or tumbler.

Garnish with a halved strawberry, placed on the rim.

Spritz it: Top with lemonade.

Piña Colada

50ml coconut rum or white rum 50ml cream of coconut 15ml lime juice 5 small pineapple chunks (frozen works best) 75ml pineapple juice 4 small ice cubes, plus extra to serve Method: Blend all the ingredients, including the ice.

Pour into a highball or wine glass and fill with more ice.

Spritz it: Top with ginger beer.

Adapted from Mixed in Minutes: 50 Quick & Easy Cocktails to Make at Home by Dan Whiteside

www.seventyonegin.com

APERITIVO

THE NEXT BIG THING? If you're a lover of earthy Mexican spirits, then we think this one may tickle your fancy Psst, have you heard about Sotol?

So who?

Sotol, it’s a local spirit from Mexico.

What, like mezcal or tequila?

Hmm, kinda but not really.

Rather than agave, it’s made from Dasylirion shrub, a plant from the asparagus family.

Never heard of it but thanks for enlightening me. What does it taste like?

We’re talking about Nocheluna Sotol here, so in this particular instance: quite smooth, almost sweet and very, very mellow, with a

nice creamy texture. There’s a touch of the herbaceous, verging on grassy about it, too. We like it. A lot.

Nice! Does it work in cocktails?

Sure does. Try it mixed with pineapple juice and lime, with a sprig of mint, or simply serve with lemon soda.

Sounds good. Anything else to note?

Did we mention that Lenny Kravitz is the (very cool) face of the brand?

Sold!

Nocheluna Sotol, 43% ABV, nocheluna.com

The BOTTLE

book club

Aphro

Aphro is the modern, artisanal take on akpeteshie, the ancestral spirit of Ghana. Translated it means ‘in hiding’, which makes perfect sense when you consider that akpeteshie was first distilled surreptitiously in homes in the 1930s when alcohol was too expensive for most people to buy.

Those days have long gone, thank goodness, and so too has its perceived bad rep. Now you can get a taste of Africa all around the world. valueafrica.co.uk For more homegrown products, see page 32.

Drink Like a Local…

By various authors How refreshing, how quaint – these specialised ‘field guides’ to the best bars in Paris, New Orleans, Texas and more are all written from an insider’s perspective. Each book comes with profiles of the bars, highlights of local bartenders, maps of the neighbourhoods and a collection of beautiful illustrations.

A Sense of Place: A Journey Around Scotland’s Whisky

By Dave Broom The next best thing to sharing a dram with Dave Broom in person is having him divulge his personal whisky journey in this evocative book.

In it, he takes the reader by the hand and guides them around some of his key spots, introduces them to his favourite people and shares his most beloved bottlings.

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Bourbon: The Complete Guide to the Essential American Spirit

By Clay Risen Beautifully packaged, this is a must-have for anyone who is even vaguely interested in the intricacies of bourbon.

As well as the book detailing the history of bourbon, there’s a pullout drawer containing reproductions of archive photos, rare bottle labels and more.

APERITIVO

SIX QUESTIONS for…

ONE

MATT ARNOLD Flying the flag for Great Britain and Birmingham as the World Class GB 2023 winner

How do you describe yourself and your bartending style?

Approachable. It’s an outdated mindset that every bartender trying to get to the top of their game has to wear a white blazer or three-piece suit. When we opened our bar Passing Fancies, we wanted to be high-end – so much thought goes into everything we do but that doesn’t mean that we can’t make the whole thing super-accessible. We have drinks that really push the boundaries in terms of innovation, fresh flavours and modern-day techniques but we showcase them without the fuss.

TWO

How does it feel to be representing Birmingham as the World Class GB winner?

Yes, it’s a victory for me and I’m really

proud of that, but I’m just really happy that it was one of the three of us from Birmingham. When Jacob [Clarke], Katie [Rouse] and myself were driving up to Edinburgh together for the World Class GB finals, we said as long as one of us does it, we’ll be happy.

THREE

Who or what motivates you?

Coming from the Midlands, I’m so bored with all of the attention being centred around London and Scotland. I want Birmingham to be considered one of the meccas of cocktail culture; I want people to think that if they’re visiting London, Birmingham is less than a couple of hours away and they’ve got to go to Couch, visit Fox & Chance and come to Passing Fancies.

That’s what motivates me.

Four

Who or what inspires you?

Mostly people – both good and bad. My inspiration doesn’t just come from the drinks development or World Class side of things, but as a bar operator, what inspires me is the fact that we have a team who are happy at work.

All of our staff are salaried, have a four-day working week and don’t work more than 40 hours. As a result, I’m surrounded by this incredible team who really push me.

FIVE

Who nurtures you?

Without a shadow of a doubt, it’s Eve [Green, his fiancée and joint director at Passing Fancies]. It sounds really silly for me to say on the back of winning World Class GB, but my proudest moment was when Eve was awarded Challenge Champion for her amazing work in the Chase challenge, during the Top 50. I cried my eyes out!

SIX

How, if at all, has World Class changed you?

It’s given me more confidence. There’s something about going from the Top 100, to the Top 50, then the Top 10, with judges you admire telling you that your drinks were really good, that gives you a real boost. If nothing else, World Class has made me want to do even more as I’ve been validated by people I really look up to. passingfanciesbar.co.uk

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eleven Local reasons

ONE Creating a buzz It’s all about the honey, honey. Track down producers in your area and make honey syrup (three parts honey, one part water) to sweeten your drinks. localhoneyfinder.org

…to be a cocktail lover right now

2

Finding your market If you’re lucky enough to still have a market – or even better, a farmer’s market – nearby, use it. Stock up on fruit, herbs and seasonal berries to make your own infusions at home.

THREE

P E X ELS TA RY N EL LI OT T

Getting the independents to come to you When you can’t shop local, do the next best thing: seek out independent producers. Lassou showcases all of our favourite indie drinks brands and better still, delivers them to your door. lassou.com 18 THE COCK TAIL LOVERS / ISSUE 45

APERITIVO

FOUR

Feeling high from local supply Even if you only do it once, resolve to invest in some barware from a local maker or independent craft shop. They’ll feel good, you’ll feel good and your drinks cabinet will look bloomin’ awesome. daphnemargaretpottery.co.uk

six

BECOMING A GIN-THUSIAST

…and don’t forget to have a good old rummage in your community charity shop. They’re fabulous places for preloved cocktail ephemera.

No matter where you live in the world, chances are, there’s someone in the vicinity creating a gin. Show them some love: splash out on a bottle and make new friends.

S H U T TE R STOC K

…go one step further and find out about investing in your local distillery/ maker. Check out who’s doing what at gofundme.com 19 THE COCK TAIL LOVERS / ISSUE 45

APERITIVO

Supporting your neighbourhood bar Make like Sam, Woody, Norm and co from Cheers and resolve to make your local bar a place where everybody knows your name. See page 54.

ELEVEN

NINE

This one works for bars as well as consumers: sign up to the Olio app and donate/receive surplus ingredients or unwanted equipment.

Everyone’s a winner. Result! olioapp.com

…and if they sell bottled drinks, buy a couple to take home. Mirror Margarita, hachabar.com

TEN

…ditto merch.

Obituary Women’s Tee, deatheandcompanymarket.com

20

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22 THE COCK TAIL LOVERS / ISSUE 45

Taking part in The Mission: One of Fabio's great initiatives

ASK APERITIVO THE EXPERT

IN THE

H TSEAT Fabio La Pietra, Creative Director, SubAstor, Brazil You’re an Italian who honed his bartender skills in London before moving to Brazil. How have the three cultures shaped you into the bartender you are now?

All three have shaped my vision and sensibility for service and ingredients.

But Great Britain has been the place of cocktail renaissance over the past two decades, and it was Montgomery Place in London that shaped me the most.

Classic, history, service… it was amazing to start working there at the age of 19.

Brazil was a surprise to me as it was a hard decision to move there. I had great passion for the country and I found real hospitality, so I decided to stay and work at SubAstor as head bartender.

Describe the look and feel of SubAstor and the ethos behind it?

SubAstor is an urban-chic cocktail bar in the basement of Astor, a hybrid barbistro in Vila Madalena, a bohemian neighbourhood in the west of São Paulo. It can host 90 people, there’s a long counter of alabaster quartz and it has a cosy atmosphere. The music is based on Afro-Latin rhythms mixed up with soul, R&B and funk. We want everyone to feel at home and spend the night in a modern space with drinks based on local ingredients. We want people to have fun and come back to us.

Now on to your menu: tell us about some of the native ingredients used…

We should start with the very first love I had in Brazil: before coming here, I didn’t know that the cashew nut has a beautiful fruit! It’s super fragrant, delicate and juicy. Then one of my favourites: breu branco. It’s an aromatic resin from trees growing in the Amazon, and it’s used by the locals as a medicinal cleanser for the lungs and for helping with breathing issues.

When did you first become aware of the extensive biodiversity in Brazil?

When I moved to São Paulo, I became obsessed with hunting out producers who could logistically supply us. Brazil is a huge country and whether an ingredient is at its best will often depend on how long it travelled before getting to us. I met with Antonia Padvaiskas, who supplies many native ingredients from all over the six biomes of Brazil, and she showed me more than 25 types of ingredients. The new products I tried completely blew my mind! I realised then what the concept of SubAstor was going to be: I had to show everyone the six biomes of Brazil.

You run a project called The Mission.

What’s it all about?

The idea for The Mission came in 2017 after a bartender friend, Alex Kratena, visited Ilhéus and Gandú in Bahia, eastern Brazil, one of the most unique microclimates for high-quality cocoa.

When I asked Alex about the trip, and about exploring more of the country, we came up with the idea of The Mission.

Discovering and championing local ingredients, farmers and producers would give us the opportunity to do something completely different.

The idea was to have a meaningful connection with the local biodiversity, learning how to prioritise what we have close to us. That’s what The Mission is all about: educating bartenders from abroad, as well as our own team and also our guests, offering them a whole new lexicon of flavours.

Who has taken part?

The Mission is aimed at the global community of bartending and food and beverage sectors. Since starting in 2018, we’ve hosted seven editions and many friends and colleagues – including Shingo

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Gokan, Monica Berg, Tony Conigliaro, Jad Ballout and Vasilis Kyritsis.

Tell us about some of the most exciting results…

I think the most exciting result is the way The Mission has inspired many Brazilian bartenders, the new generation of hospitality professionals, as well as many global colleagues. Sometimes bartenders and chefs tend to look at what they can import to make better drinks and better dishes, but they overlook their incredible local produce. The Mission is inspiring them to go local, to meet their people, to know what is native.

What are your future plans?

We want to invite writers, journalists, brand managers… more people who can help us shine a light on local farmers and natives who work and live with their land, and who are often trying to save species that are almost extinct.

What does local and incorporating locality in bars mean to you?

Thanks for this beautiful question! In Brazil specifically, to me it means helping farmers and producers who fight every day to keep their house standing and their land safe. There are too many ‘agrotoxic-based’ mass producers buying out small locals, decimating hectares and hectares of native biomes and creating semi-slavery conditions for the people who work for them. It is a massive problem here, and there are no laws that can prevent it from happening. What we can do is not look away, and teach the new generations of food and beverage creatives that this is where we came from and these local farmers are to be saved.

We need to desire less what comes from the US and Europe and appreciate more what we have on our doorstep, and we can do so by supporting locals.

snack like a local

Snacks from around the globe to keep your drinks company

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1. GREAT BRITAIN

Pork scratchings

Most countries around the world have a snack version of pork rinds. In Blighty they’re called pork scratchings and when done right, they’re heaven.

Artisan Salted Pork Scratchings Gift Jar, theoinkcompany.co.uk

2. INDIA

Bombay mix

Known as chevda in India, chanachur in Bangladesh, Punjabi mix in the US and Bombay mix in the UK, the mildly spicy mix of gram flour noodles, peas, lentils and peanuts makes for a mighty fine combo. Bombay Mix, howdahsnacks.co.uk

2

5 5. ITALY

3

Taralli

3. SPAIN

4. JAPAN

Rich and buttery on the inside, oak-smoked and dusted on the outside, these are the perfect accompaniment to a cold beer or crisp, dry sherry – or any drink for that matter.

Brindisa Smoked Catalan Almonds, souschef.co.uk

Rice crackers or senbei come in a variety of shapes and sizes, all crunchy, mildly spicy, doused with traditional seasonings and all of them absolutely moreish.

Geisha Mix Rice Crackers, snackfresh.co.uk

Smoked almonds

Rice crackers

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Available in salt, pepper and fennel varieties and mainly found in the southern region of Italy, these bagel-shaped dough rings are dangerously addictive.

We dare you just to have one!

Taralli with Extra Virgin Olive Oil, gastronomica.co.uk

APERITIVO

6. AFRICA

Plantain chips

Like their starchy counterparts, potatoes, plantain make fabulous chips. Ditto cassava and breadfruit chips, both widely consumed snackage. Olu Olu Sweet Yellow Plantain Chips, theafrikanstore.com

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8

8 MEXICO

Takis

There are tortilla chips, then there are Takis, corn tortillas rolled in the manner of a taquito. Available in a number of flavours, the chilli-lime Fuego version is the most popular.

Warning: there’s fire in that crunch. Takis, mexgrocer.co.uk 9. SOUTH AMERICA

Giant corn

Corn is abundant in Peru, so it makes sense to find the giant kernels either fried or roasted, then salted and served along with your favourite drinks.

Good job too, they’re delicious.

Roasted Peruvian Giant Corn Kernels, wallaroofoods.com

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7. USA

Popcorn

Sure, you can buy ready-made popcorn but the DIY version is much more fun. And far cheaper in the long run. Hot Air Popcorn Maker, wayfair.com

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10 10. THAILAND

Crispy seaweed

Don’t knock it until you’ve tried it. Tempura seaweed has all of the moreish qualities of the most popular snacks: savoury, crunchy and salty, but they’re light as you like and bursting with flavour. Tao Kai Noi Crispy Seaweed, thai-food-online.co.uk

ANYONE FOR PORT?

Graham’s Blend Series isn’t your average port, it’s a fresh new direction for Porto’s finest export

T

hink port, think a punctuation mark at the end of a fancy meal.

Or perhaps your mind takes you to the perfect accompaniment to round off a nicely presented cheese board. Of course port can be both of these things, but there’s so much more to the category than those limited and quite frankly, outdated perceptions. As the good folk at Graham's Port, under the guidance of Symington Family Estates, have made it

their business to prove. With more than 200 years of winemaking expertise, the brand is as confident in honouring age-old traditions as it is pushing boundaries.

Take its decision to create the first port specifically for mixing, for example. Made with the same care, attention and respect that goes into the exceptional ports it’s been producing since 1820, this clever addition to the extensive portfolio is aimed at a more modern, more experimental palate.

Graham’s Blend Nº5 White Port

Light and fresh, this deliciously perky white port is the secret ingredient that your cocktails have been waiting for. Christened number five after the fifth-generation Symington family members who brought it to life, it’s a star in the ascendant.

In the bottle:

“We use top quality grapes of Malvasia Fina and the aromatic Moscatel,” explains Victoria Symington, Graham's brand manager. “The grapes are grown at a high altitude and hand-picked, then cold fermented in small batches. The result is a semi-dry port with enough sweetness to counterbalance the bitterness in a tonic but not so sweet it doesn’t work with any other mixer.”

In the glass:

You can’t help but think of summer with this one – it’s ebullient, super fresh, medium dry and laced with juicy peach notes.

Signature serve: PORTO SUMMER 50ml Graham’s Blend Nº5 Tonic, to top Lemon and mint, to garnish Method: Serve Graham’s Blend Nº5 with plenty of ice, topped with your favourite tonic. Garnish with lemon and mint.

Bartender’s serve: ROBBIE (pictured right) 40ml Graham’s Blend Nº5 20ml fat-washed pisco 25ml simple syrup 30ml lemon juice 20ml aquafaba 15ml Graham’s Blend Nº12 to float

Method: Shake the first five ingredients over ice. Float with Graham's Blend Nº12.

Created by Joeri Visser, BelRoy’s Cocktails, Antwerp, Belgium; Runner-up, Graham’s Blend Series Cocktail Competition 2023

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TCL PARTNER

Graham’s Blend Nº12 Ruby Port

Graham’s Blend Nº12 is another liquid conversation that challenges traditional ideas of what a ruby port should be. For this blend – called number 12 because the grapes are picked at midnight – the luscious fruit is sourced from vineyards at the highest altitude to retain freshness.

In the bottle:

One of the most noticeable differences is that there’s no oak ageing or discernible tannins in play, resulting in a bright, floral blend that works like a charm in a wide range of flavoursome cocktails.

In the glass:

A complex blend of forest fruit combined with luscious berries, raspberries and a nice hit of citrus.

Signature serve: MIDNIGHT MULE 40ml Graham’s Blend Nº12 60ml ginger beer Mint to garnish Slice of lime, to garnish Method: Pour Graham’s Blend Nº12 over a generous serving of ice, top with ginger beer, then garnish with mint and a slice of lime

Please drink Graham’s Blend Series responsibly

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Bartender’s serve: PORT DE CAFÉ 50ml Graham’s Blend Nº12 20ml mezcal 10ml cold brew coffee 5ml agave syrup 4 drops saline solution 17 drops Fernet Branca Method: Add all ingredients to a mixing glass, top with ice and stir for 15 seconds. Strain into a Rocks glass over a large ice cube.

Created by Alina Bazen, Das schwarze Schaf, Bamberg, Germany; Winner Graham’s Blend Series Cocktail Competition 2023

SLUG HERE

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PROFILE

HE CANNES Bartender, botanist, beekeeper – Emanuele Balestra brings the rich scents and aromas of the French Riviera together in his creative cocktails

L AW R EN C E WAT S ON

E Opposite: Emanuele Balestra with his collection of edible fragrances; Above: Emanuele’s Provençal version of a Paloma, enhanced with grapefruit & mimosa scent

manuele Balestra uses the word beautiful – a lot.

It’s his love language. His other great loves are bartending, people and nature. Although not necessarily in that order.

Let’s start with that last one, nature. Emanuele still remembers distinctly when he caught the botanical bug.

“It was when I was asked to be part of the opening team at La Mamounia, in Marrakech – probably one of the most beautiful hotels in the world,” he recalls. That was 14 years ago, a long time before sexy, high-end alcohol brands were available in that part of the world. “So I helped to bring in as many of them as possible,” he says. “I introduced brands like Hendrick’s and Monkey 47 to Morocco and La Mamounia in particular. And as my brief was to devise something different for the hotel, I decided to create a beautiful garden, something to showcase the beautiful plants that grew in the region. I began with orange blossom, edible geranium and basil, then I turned them into beautiful jellies and flavoured sugars – very simple things. But from those early days, I would play around, hollowing out an orange, freezing the skin, then using it as a frozen glass to serve a jelly with delicate orange blossom frozen inside. It looked beautiful but more than that, the jelly added texture and had a lovely long finish. Nobody was doing that in 2009.”

Born in Lombardy, in northern Italy, Emanuele was drawn to hospitality from an early age, first helping his ‘grammy’ in the family trattoria after school, then as he got older, spurred on by

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PROFILE

an innate desire to travel. After learning the basics as a barback at a five-star hotel in Italy, he travelled extensively, taking on bartending roles in Brussels, on board a cruise ship and at hotels in Glasgow (“not good pay, not the best food at the time and pretty bad weather but the people were amazing and I learned so much about whisky”). Then came Trump Tower in Chicago – “working there taught me how to budget and the intricacies of profit and loss”. Sydney was next (“an amazing place”), followed by La Mamounia, which is still very close to his heart.

But for the past eight years, he’s made the opulent, five-star Hôtel Barrière Le Majestic in Cannes his home. “Why am I here?” he asks, pre-empting the question.

“I didn’t come for the film festival. For me, being in Cannes is about the beautiful ecosystem to grow plants. I live in a region, between Provence and the French Riviera, that is rich in scents and aroma. Being here allows me to continue doing what I’d started with the garden at Mamounia.”

Emanuele and his team have around 130 edible plants growing in their two herb gardens at Le Majestic – one in front of the hotel, the other on the roof. “Some we use, some not,” he says, as he walks round, scissors in hand, tenderly pruning a bit here and proffering up a leaf to taste there. “We also have something like 40,000-60,000 bees on our rooftop.”

There’s a lab too, lined with shelves of neatly arranged containers, labels angled just-so, filled with all manner of dried herbs, flowers and roots. The giant

fridges are equally mesmerising and precisely arranged with bottles containing distillates of various description, all gathered from the garden.

The pristine space is completed with all of the high-tech paraphernalia required to extract, distil and infuse the bounty Emanuele grows outside and transforms into liquid works of art for his guests.

Which brings us on to his other passion, people. “I like people. When you like people, you can build a beautiful team.” He’s not just talking about those he works with at the hotel (who, by the way, refer to themselves as the Smurf

family) but the wider community as well.

“In the summer, we get lots of tourists here but in the winter, it becomes the village of Cannes and the locals. We have Grasse and the garden of the Musée International de la Parfumerie in nearby Mouans-Sartoux. There’s the Comte de Grasse distillery; Robertet, the world leader in sustainable, natural raw materials; and La Verrerie de Biot, one of the best artisanal glassblowers in the world.” All masters in their respective fields, and Emanuele collaborates with all of them.

“The first partnership was with the

Emanuele and his team have around 130 edible plants growing in their two herb gardens at Le Majestic Musée International de la Parfumerie.

I learned more about botanicals and they taught me about insects, the secrets to filling a beautiful garden with life and the importance of bees, hence our beehives,” he beams. “To optimise the plants you need technology, which is where Comte de Grasse came in. They taught me how to use the ultrasound machine and I work with them on some of their expressions.

With the team at Robertet, it’s different – we work together on the borders of fragrance and flavours, making edible perfumes as well as a range of soaps and candles.”

Everything comes back to bartending, the thing that captured his attention from an early age – and still does: the craft of creating cocktails and delivering unique guest experiences. Those fragrances he talks about? They’re used to spray around and inside the Champagne glass, as well as the hands, “to enhance the olfactory experience”. The candles and soaps are more than pretty scents: “Together with the team at Robertet, we worked on deconstructing one of our cocktails, The Grande Dame, and made it into a soap. You have juniper, verbena, orange bitters and the effect of the effervescence you get from Champagne, recreated from a molecule you get from apples,” Emanuele explains. “You can use it to wash your hands, of course, but it’s nice to place in a drawer or your luggage.”

He even partners up with the artisans at La Verrerie de Biot to devise special glassware for his clever creations.

And you thought all the drama in Cannes comes from the famous red carpet? Think again.

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09 – 11 OCTOBER 23

INTERNATIONAL BAR AND BEVERAGE TRADE SHOW EXHIBITION CENTRE BERLIN

BARCONVENT.COM/TICKETS FOLLOW US @BARCONVENTBER

HOME-GROWN SPIRITS In praise of the producers capturing the spirit of the land in their bottles. By Clinton Cawood

T

erroir, that wonderfully ephemeral idea that speaks of the influence of place – whether that’s the soil, or the climate, or something more elusive... For too long it was mainly the preserve of wine, but spirits have always been just as capable, if not more, of literally distilling a sense of place.

Various factors can influence the flavour of a spirit, of course, but for some distilleries, it’s their local surrounds, that inexpressible terroir unique to them, that comes first.

France

Cognac Frapin Cognac isn’t necessarily the first spirit you’d associate with terroir, with more importance usually placed on the influence of oak ageing and blending. But for some producers, such as Cognac Frapin, expressing the local region is a priority.

Unlike most cognac houses that traditionally buy their grapes from growers in various regions, or crus, to create a blend, Frapin only uses grapes grown on its own estate, located in the most prestigious of crus, Grande Champagne. Taking this a step further, the house produces a singlevineyard cognac, made exclusively with grapes that are grown, distilled, aged and bottled at its Château Fontpinot.

Mexico Peru

Del Maguey Mezcal

The purest expression of grapes in distilled form, and by extension the place in which those grapes were grown, has to be pisco – Peruvian pisco, in particular. Regulations don’t allow pisco producers in Peru to add anything to their spirits, not even water.

All you get is the grape, fermented and distilled once.

BarSol Pisco produces all of its spirits from grapes grown in the country’s southern Ica Valley. Distillation and bottling all takes place at the historic Bodega San Isidro, using grape varieties such as Torontel and Quebranta.

Regionality and terroir are inextricably linked with Mexico’s agave spirits.

In tequila, they speak of the differences between agave plants grown in the highlands or lowlands of Jalisco. Mezcal has an even more diverse region to draw from, not to mention an array of agave varieties. Throw in the traditional use of natural fermentation with wild yeasts, and you have the potential for each mezcal to be a snapshot of its local environment.

Among the first brands to highlight this regionality in mezcal was Del Maguey, with its single-village bottlings, handcrafted by individual farmer-families and each gloriously distinct from the next.

BarSol Pisco

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United States

St. George Spirits Gin can have a tendency towards exotic botanicals sourced from the four corners of the globe, although in recent years there’s been a greater focus on local ingredients. One gin that’s particularly concerned with capturing a sense of place – the clue is in the name – is Terroir Gin, from California’s St. George Spirits. To transport you to the distillery’s local surrounds, the team there incorporate Douglas Fir tips and California bay laurel, both foraged locally.

Kenya

Procera Gin To produce Kenyan gin Procera, the team source a variety of juniper that’s native to the region and grown just 40 miles

TERROIR

Ireland

Waterford Whisky Most whisky distillers can probably only tell you roughly where the barley they buy was grown. Not Waterford Whisky in Ireland, who can trace their grain to the specific farm, and tell you the name of the farmer too. Waterford works with about 40 growers a year, distilling each farm’s barley separately to capture the terroir – which it defines as the interaction of soil, microclimate and site – of each. Waterford is now the world’s largest producer of organic and biodynamic whisky.

Waterford founder Mark Reynier has since set up the Renegade Rum Distillery in Grenada, with a similar terroir-led approach, and the rums are made with sugarcane juice rather than molasses. away from the distillery in Nairobi. The distinctive flavour of Juniperus procera is said to be a result of the high altitudes and sun it receives in the country’s highlands.

Beyond this main botanical, Procera has the ambitious goal of bottling the terroir of its entire continent, exclusively sourcing its ingredients from across Africa – everything from coriander and orris root from Morocco, to cardamom and mace from Zanzibar and acacia honey from Somalia.

England

The Oxford Artisan Distillery

within a 50-mile radius. Local organic and regenerative farms provide crops that haven’t been commonly used for more than a century, making the distillery’s spirits an expression not only of this specific place but of its history too. Plus, the ancient methods of farming help to increase biodiversity in the local countryside.

Through its Physic Gin, T.O.A.D. it also captures another very specific place – the University of Oxford’s Botanic Garden. This spirit celebrates the botanicals grown in this garden, first planted in the 1640s for the teaching of herbal medicine.

For The Oxford Artisan Distillery, whiskymaking starts in the field, with a focus on heritage grains grown specifically for them

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Scotland

Arbikie Distillery On the east coast of Scotland lies a true estate distillery, with the family-owned farm providing everything needed to produce its range of spirits. The focus isn’t on scotch whisky, as you might expect, but on vodka and gin. For some of these, spirit is produced from potatoes or wheat, while a climate-positive range, Nàdar, is distilled from peas. The estate provides all of the necessary botanicals too, from juniper to honey.

There’s whisky but not scotch as you know it. Arbikie has begun making what it claims is the first Scottish rye whisky in more than 100 years. And like everything else, the grain is grown on the estate.

Yael Weisberg goes in search of the bars and bartenders championing local ingredients

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rom Michelin-starred restaurants to corner cafés, the phrase ‘locally sourced’ has made its way onto menus and chalkboards all over the world. Sure, there are still plenty of places featuring mileage-heavy and out-of-season ingredients, but there is no doubt that the cache of locally sourced ingredients has increased dramatically in the past decade.

In a 2020 study by the National Restaurant Association, 76% of respondents said they are more likely to visit a restaurant that offers locally sourced food, proving the longevity of this global phenomenon. It ticks a lot of boxes, offering guests a place-specific experience, highlighting seasonality and delivering optimal freshness, whilst also supporting sustainable practices and reducing waste.

That said, there are some downsides to limiting the menu to local, especially in climates that feature dark cold winters

or scorching summers. For bars, those limits are even more constricting, as the production of spirits doesn’t happen everywhere, and some, like tequila or scotch, can only be produced in one particular place. Consumer preference also comes into play. Many of the classic cocktails that people expect to be able to get anywhere, like a Daiquiri or a Whisky Sour, call for fresh ingredients that certainly don’t grow all over the world, all the time. Unstable weather patterns are also impacting harvests, making it more difficult to predict what ingredients will be locally available.

In the face of these challenges, bartenders all over the world are increasingly aware of how their choices impact the environment, and how much of a difference they can make to small farmers and producers. Our local heroes, those who have made the commitment to local sources central to their mission, excite their guests and inspire the industry with clever twists on classics and novel concoctions that would convert the most staunch Margarita lover or Old Fashioned aficionado.

From Australia to Sweden, these bars are reducing their carbon footprint and boosting their connection to soil and season. If one of these spots is local to you, pull up a stool and find out just how much taste, how much flavour is waiting to be explored in your own backyard.

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LOCAL HEROES

SWEDEN

Facit, Umeå Located in the largest city in northern Sweden, Facit adheres to local principles in an extraordinarily unforgiving natural environment, using no imported products. “We invest in Swedish booze,” its website proudly proclaims, and with a spot on The World’s 50 Best Bars list, it seems like that decision was a very sound investment.

The menu features a ‘Geografi’ section, with each cocktail representing a different region, as well as a classics list that offers local takes on crowd favourites. Familiar acid sources like limes and grapefruit have been switched out for rhubarb, quince, apples and lingonberries, delivering delightful alterations to familiar flavour profiles.

Facit is the brainchild of Emil Åreng, a Swedish bar industry veteran who has spent the past 13 years exploring the local ingredients that have always been part of his world. He works with producers and small farmers throughout Sweden, engaging them in his process to support long-term sustainability. “Each year the local ingredients have gotten better and more producers have realised that it’s not that ‘hard’ to do.”

Emil relishes the moment when guests discover just how rich the natural bounty of his native land is. “People from Sweden are more surprised than tourists that we are such a diverse country with so many different distilleries and producers!”

AUSTRALIA

RE, Sydney Located in an old train workshop that has been transformed with a pared-back, modern style, RE is a bar on a mission: to serve guests food and drinks that surprise and delight them, whilst fundamentally changing how hospitality businesses source products, in Sydney and beyond.

RE was conceived by Matt Whiley, a long-time champion of local and hyperlocal ingredients, first in London and now in sunny Sydney. Always seeking new ways to close the loop and achieve zero waste, Matt set a challenge for his team to create a variety of ingredients from the 10 food items that most often end up in the bin. They had to develop 10 innovative and delicious cocktails using only components made from these ingredients. In one of their experiments, they cured banana skins in koji and salt for a month. The result: something that tasted exactly like green olives.

And according to Matt, this is only the beginning. “If we can make a banana taste like an olive, we can do anything.”

Outside the bar, they are going even further. Knowing that 30% of produce grown never even makes it off the farm due to oversupply or imperfections, Matt and his team are trying to attack this problem at the source. “Our five-year plan is to create a marketplace for local produce that growers would otherwise throw out.” Growers make money on produce that would have been destroyed.

Hospitality businesses save money on supplies. Food waste is reduced.

Everyone commits to the system, and everyone benefits.

If you’re worried that all this talk of waste might ruin your appetite, don’t fret. The ‘W’ word is nowhere to be seen on the cocktail list and the bar is a lecture-free zone. Ultimately, the viability of the business and its mission rests on its ability to deliver great experiences for guests. “Going to a bar isn’t about being educated. It’s about having fun.”

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CHINA

Mostly Harmless, Hong Kong In a bar scene that has historically relied on imported goods to deliver world-class cocktails, Mostly Harmless stands out for its locally sourced omakase experience that celebrates the rich variety that Hong Kong’s subtropical climate is capable of producing.

Working exclusively with local farms for its fresh ingredients, the bar offers a rotating list of four cocktails, all developed using closed-loop principles that minimise or eliminate waste in the process.

Ezra Star and her team have created a pretension-free zone in their popular bar, giving people an opportunity to enjoy sustainable cocktails without sacrificing flavour, variety or vibe. “Mostly Harmless is all about building community, and we do that through every aspect of our approach.”

Unfortunately, some of the challenges they face can’t be fixed in-house. “We would love to use more local liquor – however, production in Hong Kong is quite challenging and limits our ability to do so.”

Rather than letting those challenges get her down, Ezra has big plans to get even more involved with local growers.

“We are currently working with one of our farm partners to start our own plot within their fields to grow our own plantings.” There can be no doubt that the drinks at Mostly Harmless represent a collective labour of love.

ENGLAND

Ugly Butterfly, Carbis Bay Sourcing as much produce from in and around Cornwall as possible, the team at Ugly Butterfly celebrate the agricultural abundance of the region.

Part of a growing group, Ugly Butterfly has earned acclaim for turning kitchen offcuts into elevated, flavourful cocktails.

Having worked in big-city bars as well as countryside destination venues, group bar director Josh Linfitt relishes the creative opportunity in closed-loop cocktail creation. “Whether it be something as easy to use as spent coffee or something trickier like carrot tops, I find it hard to ignore an ingredient’s potential. It’s that ‘lightbulb moment’ when you’ve got the ability to vent creatively.”

Some ingredients are unique to Ugly Butterfly, like its pandan liqueur, which uses leaves foraged (with permission) from the Eden Project. It’s one of Josh’s seasonal favourites. “I love our Drop Sails, Knot Nets cocktail – the pandan has so much more flavour when it’s fresh. On the palate, think popcorn banana Daiquiri with a Gimlet citrussy botanical booster.”

In the long term, chef-owner Adam Handling and executive chef Jamie Park intend to have their own farm that supplies restaurants and shops across the region. In the meantime, there is plenty to forage in the Cornish countryside. “Extracting as much flavour as possible allows us to abide by that foragers’ code: only take what you need and leave enough for the plant to flourish,” Josh confirms.

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LOCAL HEROES

FRANCE

Le Syndicat, Paris The challenges faced by bars that focus on local products aren’t always about seasonality or supply chains. Sometimes it’s about the way that people think about an ingredient or product. Beyond its commitment to using French ingredients, Le Syndicat is determined to change the outdated perceptions of traditional (and unpopular) French spirits and wines by using them in modern, innovative cocktails.

As the bar’s name suggests – and founder Romain Le Mouëllic confirms – collaboration is central to its approach.. “The current menu was made in collaboration with French chefs and all the wines we used match with the personal taste or story of these different chefs. It’s an authentic taste of France, overlapping the worlds of fine French wines and gastronomy.”

Romain and the team are currently planning a grand tour of France with two ambitious projects. “We want to unearth forgotten eaux-de-vie or prestige eaux-de-vie from large and small houses, and offer them on a never-before-seen menu with the finest selection of French spirits.” They also plan to produce spirits in collaboration with some of Le Syndicat’s historical partners, creating unique batches for sale in the bar, combining heritage and modernity in a way that is unmistakably and exquisitely French.

SCOTLAND

The American Bar, Gleneagles World-class hotel bars combine the classic and the innovative to ensure that guests truly feel like they can have it all. To provide that experience in a way that respects and elevates local products, The American Bar looked at different ways to approach the idea of locality. The Book of Berries menu is the result of this exploration.

“First, we focused on what we like to refer to as the ‘Gleneagles Ecosystem’, essentially looking at what produce we already have within our property, and how we can reuse some of the secondary ingredients and by-products of other preparations,” Michele Mariotti, head of bars, explains. From avocado stones and kiwi skins to papaya seeds and spent coffee, the hotel’s kitchen waste becomes part of the bar’s library of ingredients.

The menu also highlights hyperlocal ingredients sourced from within Perthshire. “One of my favourites is a drink called Gooseberry, which is based on gin and gooseberry wine, sourced directly from a berry-wine producer based in Perthshire.

This twist on a French 75 is extremely refreshing, definitely a crowd-pleaser!”

With so many growers and producers on their doorstep, the team are eager to continue exploring the possibilities and find more ways to expand their local ingredient repertoire. Deciding to co-create distillates is an exciting step forward. “We are currently expanding our relationships with some of the distilleries around us to create unique spirits for the next iteration of our menus.” The American Bar proves that going local isn’t an all or nothing proposition. It’s a journey and an adventure.

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SLUG HERE

Born in the UK Flying the flag for the latest products raised in the UK

Somerset SHOWERINGS TRIPLE VINTAGE CIDER

They say “Made from three vintages from a single orchard. Principally late season Dabinetts, an aromatic Somerset variety, rich in tannins, considered the premier cider apple.”

We say We’re not usually cider drinkers but this has swung us round. Perfectly crisp and clean, and delightful as an aperitif or paired with food.

6.8% ABV, 375ml, RRP £4

Scottish Highlands GLENGLASSAUGH 12 YEAR OLD SINGLE MALT SCOTCH WHISKY

They say “The new expressions transport us to a place where the spirit is awakened and soul invigorated, inviting us to stop, take a breath and appreciate our surroundings.”

We say Ooh, how we love a good Highland whisky, and this one delivers on every front.

There’s tropical fruitiness and an agreeable wee bit of peat.

45% ABV, 70cl, RRP £50

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NEW PRODUCTS

Herefordshire VAPOURA GOLD RUM

They say “Friends, family, connection, music, growth, adventure. We wanted to combine the things that make us feel alive with a lifelong passion for rum.”

We say Herefordshire? Rum? When it’s laced with big hits of ripe raisin, caramel and bursts of chocolate, why the hell not?

42% ABV, 70cl, RRP £65

Swansea CYGNET 22 WELSH DRY GIN

They say “I have crafted my Cygnet Gin in the same way that I have approached my singing career, with the deepest respect for my audience, striving for a ‘best in glass’ experience that reflects all the values I hold close to my heart.”

We say Welsh mezzo-soprano Katherine Jenkins hits the right notes with her first foray into the world of spirits. Her secret weapon for her voice and recently launched gin? Manuka honey.

44% ABV, 70cl, RRP £47.50

Scottish Lowlands THE BLADNOCH SAMHLA COLLECTION

They say “The Samhla Collection stands as a tribute to the remarkable journey Bladnoch has undertaken. It is a privilege to ensure its continued existence, and to carry the torch of tradition, innovation and excellence for generations to come.”

We say We missed our chance to try this limited-run trio, so we can only assume that each of the three expressions is worth the price tag. They sure look the part.

The Sage 2008, 52.4% ABV, 70cl, £5,250; The Prior 1990, 47.6% ABV, 70cl, £10,500; The McClelland 1966, 42.8% ABV, 70cl, £50,000

London

Yorkshire

FORTNUM & MASON AMALTHEA DRY GIN

SPIRIT OF YORKSHIRE FILEY BAY PEATED FINISH BATCH #3

They say “This fresh and bright London Dry is distilled with British apple spirit and an array of traditional ingredients, alongside Fortnum’s Earl Grey Tea and Monarch Marmalade.”

We say As classy and classic as you’d expect from a gin distilled and bottled on-site in the copper still at the famous Fortnum’s in Piccadilly, this is light, bright and just perfect in a refreshing G&T. 43% ABV, 50cl, RRP £35

They say “This forward-thinking whisky is made with 100% homegrown barley from the distillery’s farm, and is one of the only true ‘field to bottle’ whiskies in the world.”

We say We’ve always loved true Yorkshire spirit and this one seals the deal. Subtly peated, agreeably creamy and with just the right amount of citrus shining through, it has a complexity that everyone can get down with.

46% ABV, 70cl, RRP £65

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FARM TO GLASS BARS Building communities, raising consciousness, creating delicious drinks. By Forest Collins

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FARMS

Turning challenges into benefits

The scent of Holy Basil

ollowing the success of the farm-to-table movement, bars around the world are beginning to capitalise on its sustainable and eco-friendly practices, creatively working local products into cocktails and realising unexpected benefits.

Getting the farm into the glass

Farm-to-glass bars source local agricultural products directly from farmers, third-party coordinators or even their own land and incorporate them into drinks programmes in a variety of ways.

Paris bar Little Red Door, a pioneer in the movement, literally puts the product and producer at the centre of the guest experience. Its current menu, Flourish, is a collection of cocktails each dedicated to one product from one local producer. For example, the Tomato cocktail is built around the house aperitif, for which they

Paul Voza, head of research and development at Himkok; Norwegian cider brand, Alde

macerate the fruit in a neutral spirit, and its menu description includes a photo of and text about the farmer.

Many bars that successfully work with seasonal products all year long have on-site labs with equipment like rotovaps to transform them into more stable formats. Of course, lower tech options can also give perishables a longer shelf life. Colombian bar Alquímico, which works with an agricultural association as well as having its own 25-acre farm, showcases indigenous fruits in homemade liqueurs. Elsewhere, the team at Line Athens are helping local farmers by collaborating and transforming their fruit into non-grape wines, or ‘Why-ins’, as they call them.

Straight swaps are a simple way for bars to support local agriculture as well.

In Oslo, “the world’s most sustainable bar” Himkok has seen a very positive customer reaction to replacing the American ciders formerly on offer with Alde Sider, which is made on a Norwegian farm. And these kinds of venues aren’t overlooking bar snacks.

The Doctor’s Office in Seattle, Washington works with Farmstand Local Foods to source almost all of its charcuterie and cheese directly from Pacific Northwest farms.

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While going local isn’t without challenges, many in the industry are discovering unexpected benefits in overcoming these hurdles.

As a general rule, better ingredients cost more, and that can strain a business’ bottom line. Bars are working out these economics in different ways. At Himkok, they transform perishables into shelfstable products that last longer and stretch farther, allowing the bar to maintain lower than average prices, which gives it a competitive edge. On the flip side, Little Red Door has had success with maintaining higher prices but effectively communicating the humane, sustainable and organic values underpinning its programme. As co-founder, Timothée Prangé says, “Everyone involved in the creation of the cocktail should be fairly compensated.

That includes not only the bartender, but the cleaners, the farmer, and any others involved in its journey to the guest.”

Some of the challenges may initially seem counterintuitive. As Paul Voza, head of R&D for Himkok, explains: “As a high-volume bar, one of our biggest

Holy Basil cocktail, Little Red Door

challenges is not to suck our suppliers dry.” For small-scale agricultural operations, inconsistent purchasing practices that consume all of a product one year, but little to none of it the next year can be detrimental to their businesses. Having an awareness of this informs the bar’s buying decisions and relationships with local farmers, ultimately reinforcing a more sustainable system for everyone.

Of course, seasonality is a big issue for bars. Little Red Door sources most of its products from June to September, but doesn’t drop a new menu until February

FARMS

or later. But like many in the industry, the team enjoy the creative flexing and the opportunity to learn the new skills required to transform fresh seasonal products into something that lasts through the year. Plus this process often opens welcome dialogues with farmers who offer guidance on matching fruit and vegetable varieties to preservation methods.

Building community

While challenges and solutions vary from bar to bar, one benefit consistently realised by all is the building of bigger and stronger communities.

According to Little Red Door’s Prangé,

Top left: Housemade liqueurs at Alquímico; Above: One of the farmers working with Little Red Door

They help communities develop and transform the product to facilitate transportation, and meet a bigger demand as they actively seek out new producers in France, they build a larger network of French farmers, farm-to-table chefs and other hospitality professionals who hold the same values and share contacts, knowledge and resources. And while his bar consistently attracts an international cocktail crowd, he has seen a marked increase in French clientele who appreciate the bar’s ethos and have learned about it through these bigger conversations about supporting local farmers.

Matthew Powell, MD and co-owner of The Doctor’s Office, expands on the positive impact of sourcing local and name-checking producers: “We are a tiny bar with a very small staff, so we know first-hand the struggles of a small business. We know that margins are narrow and even minor changes in sales

Ode to the Tomato at Little Red Door

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can have an outsized impact for a small business, so at every opportunity we look to support other small businesses, especially those that are local and owned by under-represented groups.”

Alquímico sources as much as possible from Colombian agricultural association Asocoman. The bar’s founder, Jean Trinh, explains that the association “works directly with 30 families and 200 people total. It helps families recover from the 90s, where a lot of people suffered from the violence in the country and had to leave their fertile land. It also helps women from the community to become independent. They help communities develop and transform the product to facilitate transportation, and meet a bigger demand.”

The community-building aspect of the farm-to-glass movement really resonates with bars. Combine this with its many other benefits and it truly is something that is more than the sum of its parts. As Himkok’s Voza concludes: “When bars develop healthy relationships with local farms, everybody wins!”

PHOTO STORY

How utilising local ingredients is making all the difference Photography Gary Smith

R

ice, honey, cocoa, sugar cane and stone. What do these five distinct ingredients all have in common? They’re all adding more than a touch of local flavour to five very different bottles. The results are as individual as they are delicious.

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The London Vermouth Company No.3 S.E. Dry Featuring…

HONEY FROM LONDON An abundance of bees isn’t what you expect to discover thriving in a bustling city. But it’s the carefully cultivated beehives of The London Bee Company that produce the floral, herbaceous yet gently acidic honey used by The London Vermouth Company.

Taking the place of refined sugar, the honey delivers the subtle sweet notes integral to the elegant No.3 S.E. Dry Vermouth.

Corpse Reviver No.2 30ml The London Vermouth Company No.3 S.E. Dry 30ml London Dry gin 15ml Cointreau 15ml lemon juice 1 dash absinthe Lemon twist, to garnish Shake the ingredients over ice and strain into a chilled cocktail glass.

Garnish with a lemon twist. londonvermouthcompany.com

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Renais Gin Featuring…

KIMMERIDGIAN STONE FROM CHABLIS It’s one thing being inspired by a wine-growing region, quite another literally adding its terroir. Renais creates its base spirit using grape skins salvaged after wine-pressing around Chablis. It also ‘harvests’ Kimmeridgian stone from the same local vineyards, macerating it for 30 days in the spirit, giving the finished gin the distinctly appealing mineral characteristic associated with the region’s finest wines.

The Emma 30ml Renais Gin 10ml Domaine Watson Chablis 20ml elderflower syrup 20ml fresh lemon juice 2 dashes Suze Gentian Liqueur 100ml soda water Fill a large wine glass with good-quality ice. Add all the ingredients and stir gently. renais.co.uk

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PHOTO STORY

Takamaka Rum Featuring…

SEYCHELLES SUGAR CANE Once in short supply in the Seychelles, sugar cane is now cultivated there in abundance thanks to the extensive support of the producers of Takamaka. With its distinct terroir of granitic soil and beach sand, the harvested sugar cane produces a juice that’s rich with notes of raw sugar and floral grassiness – and it’s this that’s at the heart of Takamaka’s exceptional rums.

Luxury Daiquiri 50ml Takamaka Le Clos Series Rum 15ml lime juice 15ml sugar syrup Lime wedge, to garnish Shake the ingredients over ice and strain into a chilled coupe glass.

Garnish with a lime wedge. takamakarum.com

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PHOTO STORY

Haku Vodka Featuring…

JAPANESE WHITE RICE Made with 100% white rice harvested from farms across Japan, it’s hardly surprising the name Haku means ‘white’ in Japanese, the word can also be read as ‘brilliant’. Milled and polished to perfection, the rice is revered for its mild and subtly sweet flavour, the ultimate proud symbol of the country. Distilled using a unique process that preserves and enhances these flavours, the resulting vodka is exquisite with a soft appealing aroma, rich taste and an exceptionally smooth, sophisticated finish.

Haku Martini 75ml Haku Vodka 15ml dry vermouth 1 dash orange bitters Lemon twist, to garnish Stir all the ingredients carefully over ice and strain into a chilled coupe glass.

Garnish with a lemon twist. house.suntory.com/ haku-vodka

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Angostura Cocoa Bitters Featuring…

COCOA FROM TRINIDAD AND TOBAGO A local agricultural treasure of Trinidad and Tobago, Trinitario cocoa is coveted for its uniquely bold and fruity characteristics. It’s essential in bringing enticing notes of rich bitter, floral, nutty cocoa to the heart of Angostura Cocoa Bitters. What’s more, regular harvesting provides practical support for the country’s small-scale organic farmers.

After Eight Mojito 10 mint leaves 20ml sugar syrup 25ml lime juice 50ml Angostura White Oak Rum 6 dashes Angostura Cocoa Bitters Soda water Mint sprig, to garnish Muddle the mint leaves, sugar syrup and lime juice, add the rum and bitters, then fill with crushed ice and stir. Add more ice, top with soda water and garnish with a mint sprig. angosturabitters.com

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SEEKFIND

Flavour, ethos, creativity: the benefits of working with foraged ingredients in cocktails are many. Millie Milliken speaks to the people unearthing the freshest new ingredients

“I

adore handing over my ingredients and seeing how these wizards transform them,” says Chloe Newcomb Hodgetts, founder of Gourmet Gatherings. Based in Monmouthshire in southeast Wales (and with a background in marine science and hospitality herself), she works with bartenders across the UK to bring its native ingredients to life – including the team at Cardiff’s Lab22.

They mainly feature her ingredients in the bar’s seasonal cocktails: the Wildflower Sour uses primrose, cowslip, grape hyacinth and gorse, all infused in vodka; while the Currant Affairs uses currant flowers (described by Hodgetts as “Ribena on crack”) – only available a few weeks of the year, they’ve been made into a liqueur by head bartender Max Hayward, for use all year round.

Hodgetts is one of a growing number of foragers finding a new source of interest from bartenders. Another is Christian Amys, whose passion for foraging while working as a chef has

DRINK Above: Former chef, Christian Amys from Urban Forage

turned into a full-time role with his business Urban Forage, based in Brighton.

“I wanted to dip my toe into another one of my passions, so I spent lockdown planning how to turn my love of foraging into a profession,” he says. Now, he runs workshops with groups and schools as well as providing a portfolio of businesses with locally foraged ingredients. One such client is Gungho, a sustainable cocktail bar run by Julien Barnett. “He asked a chef for a forager and they put him in touch with me. He said he was desperate for a bag of wild fennel, and I could sort him out straight away.”

Further afield in Brazil, ethno-botanist Jorge Ferreira spends his days researching native ingredients (currently edible mushrooms) in the Atlantic Forest, while also working with the renowned SubAstor bar with Fabio La Pietra in São Paulo (see p. 22). For Ferreira it’s a truly symbiotic relationship. “The ethnobotany world is all about researching plants, connecting people and uniting the world of food with history. I think bartenders do the same.”

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Jorge Ferreira and father work with SubAstor in São Paulo

Foraging bonds

How foragers and bartenders work together is often with an open dialogue, it seems. “Sometimes a mixologist might reach out and ask for a bag of pineapple weed or gorse; sometimes they have no idea what they want and I’ll spend hours consulting them,” explains Hodgetts.

Ferreira enjoys introducing the SubAstor team to ingredients they can’t find in São Paulo, while also recognising that bartenders have a role to play in the continuation of some of these species too. “Once they try and love a new flavour, we get to work and organise a way for them to bring it back to the bar.

I always think of what needs some help,

FORAGING

greenthread) has been used as a main ingredient in cocktails, paired with hatch chile and peaches preserved from the previous season.

Digging deeper

U N S P LA S H - A NN I E S P R AT T, M A RG A R ET JA S ZOWS K A

Right: Chloe Newcomb Hodgetts from Gourmet Gatherings

flavours that we are going to lose if we don’t keep planting and selling… If SubAstor brings that produce to a wider public, it gives us the opportunity to plant more of it and harvest it, keeping it alive for future generations.”

One of the SubAstor team’s favourite cocktails, says creative director Fabio La Pietra, is Café, which uses the musky, silken auricolea mushroom; while another uses jaborandi, a spicy-ginseng kind of root with an anaesthetic effect, says La Pietra. “We infuse the root into vodka, and as it is a strong flavour we can bring out all its angles. We use the ingredients to make highballs for our guests who love a slightly bitter note in their drink.”

Back in Brighton and Amys rocks up at Gungho on a monthly basis: “I know Julien doesn’t like heavy garnish, but it needs to be packed full of flavour.”

Ingredients like violets, pea shoots and mugwort grace the menu, some foraged

by Barnett himself, others by Amys.

Someone who combines foraging with making cocktails is Diné rancher, farmer, forager, mixologist and founder of Dii IINÀ Food Start to Finish, Danielle Goldtooth. She’s working on her family ranch and farm in Phoenix, Arizona to promote community food sovereignty.

“We utilise Diné philosophy of thinking in order to create our business model,” she explains. “In short it holds us responsible for the impacts we have on the individual, the community, the earth and the future.

We are trying to find Hózhó – beauty and balance – in our practices based on self-determination and self-reliance.”

Ingredients like wild onions and garlic have both appeared in Goldtooth’s Martinis; piñons have been made into liqueurs; sumac has been mixed with aged rum; and Navajo tea (otherwise known as

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But why work with foragers when tomes such as Food for Free (Richard Mabey), The Forager’s Calendar (John Wright) and anything written by Roger Phillips is there to educate the hungry bartender to forage themselves. The prevailing answer?

Knowledge. Aside from the encyclopedic knowledge held by foragers, there are implications that come with foraged ingredients related to the health of those who consume them as well as the nature that provides them.

“Some people find foraging controversial,” says Hodgetts. “But we work in a sustainable way, we only forage with permission, never damage an area, and don’t take more than what is responsible.”

For Amys, sharing of information is the key driver for what he and his business does, while Goldtooth’s approach also reaches further than just the ingredients: “When I use foraged produce, I go to great lengths to explain the ethics of harvesting. My family utilises the one-third rule; pick one third for yourself, leave two-thirds for propagation and animals. Traditionally you always pray for the intentions of the plant life you are taking and give the plant an offering to have in exchange of what you take. I think understanding and finding these spaces to take from our Mother is sacred and should be treated as such. The idea is that when you serve food or drink, the intentions you have for the guest are consumed by the person you feed it to.”

There’s an argument for technique too. “Some of the misconceptions, which I used to find up until a couple of years ago, had more to do with the way bartenders were thinking of presenting the ingredient to the public,” explains Ferreira. “Many of them make this very delicate produce into a higher sugar or high-alcohol preparation, thinking they’ll get more flavour out and preserve it for a long time. The issue is that some of these native herbs have incredibly delicate and volatile aromas that can get ‘burnt’ if used like that.”

And of course, let’s not forget about flavour. “One of the real benefits of foraging is it introduces flavours you wouldn’t necessarily use otherwise,” says Lab22’s Hayward. “It gives you access to this whole new world.”

DIGESTIF TIME TO SIP, SAVOUR AND CONTEMPLATE

p. 62 Flavours of Lima

Tailor-made drinks at Sastrería Martínez and exploring the fascinating flavours of the region 53 THE COCK TAIL LOVERS / ISSUE 45

IN THIS ISSUE In praise of neighbourhood bars; the joys of local honey; a three-ingredient French aperitif, and more…

NEIGHBOURHOOD BARS

T RAISING A GLASS TO NEIGHBOURHOOD BARS Destination bars are all well and good but there's a lot to be said for drinking closer to home. By Gary Sharpen

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here used to be a bar, quite some years ago, that was about a five-minute walk from where we live.

The design of the space itself was nothing particularly special. Open all day, the lighting worked well enough. Music seemed to cover hip-hop, pop, jazz, soul, reggae, Latin, with no particular rhyme or reason. The food consisted of simple snacks that were pretty good. And then there were the drinks. Now these were always fun. They knew how to pour a beer and open a bottle of wine (both from well-priced selections). As for cocktails…

We have particularly happy memories of the cocktails. They had a few on the menu, some classics and a few original creations. We soon learned, though, it was about who was making them. If it was the assistant bar manager, let’s call them ‘X’, then we couldn’t have been happier. But if the task fell to absolutely anyone else on the team we were in for an absolute shocker. As I say, we learned.

If we were served by X then we would order a cocktail and it would always be

THE EXPERTS’ CHOICE Holly Graham,

Founder, Tokyo Confidential

pretty tasty. If it was anyone else then we would politely go for something else.

(Despite well-meaning protests as they were all keen to try their hand at the mixology lark.)

So, why did we keep going back?

Yes, it could have been the convenience, but then there were also a handful of decent pubs and a couple of pleasant wine bars, all within about the same distance. The reason, plain and simple, was the people and the atmosphere they created. The tone was set by the bar team. It was how they made us, and everyone else, feel.

It was as though a few of our friends were running a bar as an open house.

Above and below: Feeling part of a community at your local bar

What they lacked in skill they more than made up for in being genuinely nice people. They greeted all of their regulars by name and made new guests instantly feel right at home. Lots of energy, bad jokes, music tracks put on because you mentioned something you liked.

On one particular occasion I dropped in alone for a quick one. Fortunately X took my order and I knew I could get a decent Martini. I then noticed he had made two. When I pointed this out he simply said it was a happy hour two-forone, and swiftly deposited the second into the fridge to await my pleasure.

Unorthodox yes, but thoughtful.

And they did these kinds of things all the time. Small gestures. Remembering things you said or friends you’d brought in. Asking how the family was. Bearing in mind that at the time, social media was in its infancy, they also collected people’s mobile numbers. So it was not unusual to get a text message on a grey Monday evening saying something like they were giving away food with any drinks ordered.

Yes, it was marketing, but it made you feel part of something.

And feeling part of something is feeling part of a community. In towns and cities, this is especially valuable.

Good neighbourhood bars are the urban equivalent of the village hall.

Sadly this bar has gone, a victim of ever-increasing rents in the area, and has been replaced by a barbershop. But we still talk about it to this day.

Times have changed, too. And now, all around the world, it’s not unusual to find neighbourhood bars that actually mix up incredibly good cocktails, serve outstanding small bites, curate clever playlists and more. But what marks out the very best of them is the people. It goes beyond great service. From five stars to dive bars. It’s how they make you feel.

So, if you’re lucky enough to have a great neighbourhood bar, we urge you to support it. And in the meantime, we’ll raise a glass to the great neighbourhood bars of the world.

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The Bellwood (Tokyo) “A local bar with just a touch of Japanese flair. The bartenders wear smart uniforms and the cocktails are pretty special, but it’s got the feel of a tiny pub you could sit in for hours.

The Pontiac (Hong Kong) “Brooklyn dive bar feel, wicked soundtrack, great cocktails and a highly inclusive ethos. The kind of place you can roll solo whatever time, whether you want a quiet one or a rowdy night.”

François Monti Cocktail Writer

The Dash (Madrid) “First of the new wave of Madrid cocktail bars to venture out of the city centre. Understated look, great music and impeccable classics. Neighbourly and homely, as it should be.

Onda Cocktail Room (Lisbon) “I like the small, quiet room, fell for the short but to the point drinks. I like the history too. Co-owner Peter O'Connor was Master of Whiskey for Diageo, but on a visit to Lisbon he decided to give up his job and open this bar.”

Jim Meehan

Author, Meehan's Bartender Manual Bryant’s (Milwaukee) “A blueprint for the perfect bar.

Peerless sightlines over dozens of corner seats if you can’t get a seat at the bar, a fish tank and a McIntosh sound system long before listening bars became popular here in the States.

Best Intentions (Chicago) “Opened by a former co-worker, Chris Marty with his brother Calvin. It's a quintessential Chicago tavern where every detail is meticulously considered.

Come for Angostura on draft and stay for the decadent Wondermint Malted.”

OUT AND ABOUT

THE COCKTAIL GIRL SWOONS… Over her latest bar crush

Kwānt 52 Stratton Street, London, W1J 8LN. @kwantmayfair

I’ve waited two whole years for Erik Lorincz to reopen his bar, Kwānt, and although I was pretty annoyed at the time, it’s definitely been worth the wait.

My first hurrah is for the location, or more specifically the new premises. I mean, honestly, I would travel for miles for Mr L’s gracious hospitality but the fact that he’s found a gem of a space in fabulous Mayfair, on street level rather than the difficult to find basement room Kwānt previously occupied, is manna to me. Then to seal the deal, the new building is blessed with

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majestic dual-aspect windows. All the better for admiring the decor – an intoxicating mash-up of African, Polynesian and Zen-like fabulousness. You know when a building gives you the feels?

That’s what I get from Kwānt Mark II. It’s the sense of space and airiness that does it for me. While most bars have a tendency to make you feel ever so slightly hemmed in, entering this one with its ceiling that seems to soar up for miles, is like slipping out of a pair of too high, too tight shoes and sinking into some buttersoft, calfskin loafers. Loafers, not slippers mind. While there’s no discernible Mayfair dress code, even if you usually veer towards the more casual end of the dressing spectrum, I’d say this place is worthy of trading up to a designer version.

But back to Erik, back doing what he does best: hosting a room, charming guests and making drinks like a boss.

God, I’ve missed him. He’s one of those young, old-school bartenders who still prides himself on delivering the ultimate guest experience. It shows up in the way he’s worked with Code Studios to design his dream venue – tropical carpet and bespoke island bar and all – and continues through to the cut of his signature white jacket.

The drinks are every bit as suave and clean-cut as the man himself. So too is the ultra-thin, super-elegant glassware they’re served in. I’m rather partial to the Skin Contact (Ki No Bi Gin, Tío Pepe Fino Sherry, tomato water and liquid shio koji) and the Arandas (Olmeca Altos Tequila, banana, Sauternes and agave), but the Bloody Mary (pictured left) is a revelation – light, fluffy and a masterpiece in my book.

Then just when you thought it couldn’t get any better, there’s the food. Oh my golly gosh! It’s fine dining and then some. Only Erik could lure a talent like Joni Ketonen, formerly of Michelinstarred venues including The Fat Duck, Jason Atherton and St John, to work in a bar. It’s a match made in Mayfair heaven.

Sophia Loren, Paul Newman, Gina Lollobrigida, Kirk Douglas, Grace Kelly… the list of exceptionally glamorous guests who once graced the elegant Igiea Terrazza Bar in Palermo is endless. Imagine, if this bar could talk, what stories might it tell? Well, thanks to the ingenious mind of Salvatore ‘The Maestro’ Calabrese it is telling them. And this cocktail guy was more than ready to pull up a bar stool in the beautiful bar and listen.

The space itself is a work of art. Situated in what were once the vaults of Villa Igiea, its sandstone walls are adorned with 1950s frescoes depicting historic and mythical scenes. Lighting is provided by dramatic wrought-iron chandeliers. As for the bar area itself, it appears to be one long, very impressive creation of marble and wood, divided perfectly in two. However, one section is many decades old, while the other is brand new but cleverly crafted to perfectly mirror the original. The reason? The Maestro was keen to accommodate more guests in the intimate setting, while retaining the original’s sophistication.

Moreover, though, it is the older of the two bars that has seen and heard it all over its many years of service, and apparently it shares these wondrous stories at night with its younger sibling.

So says Salvatore, and it is these ‘conversations’ that have been romantically brought to life by him and his team to inspire the new menu, Once Upon a Time.

I started with Kirk 103 (Bulldog Gin and Belvedere Vodka scented with extra-virgin olive oil, and Vermouth del Professore infused with black olives). Now, so this particular story goes, Kirk Douglas lived to be 103 years old, Martini in hand. Whilst I’m not advocating this as a lifestyle diet, this particular Martini, featuring local ingredients such as black olive, oregano and rosemary, and served ‘naked’ (sans dilution, a style pioneered by Salvatore), was bold and beautiful.

My date was drawn by Divina (Cîroc Vodka, basil, kiwi and honey cordial, and Champagne), a lowsugar cocktail created in honour of the healthy lifestyle of another famous guest, operatic icon Maria

THE COCKTAIL GUY IMAGINES… Sipping with stars of the silver screen in Sicily Igiea Terrazza Bar Villa Igiea, Salita Belmonte 43, Palermo. @villaigiea palermo

Callas. And after her first sip, my companion declared that she was feeling better already.

Paul Newman loved a beer, hence the refreshing and punchy Newman’s Day (Wild Turkey Bourbon, mango, passion fruit and APA Sicilian beer). While the legendary ‘Ice Queen’ – actress (and later Princess of Monaco) Grace Kelly – is honoured in an appropriately ice-cold and seductive drink of the same name (Ketel One Vodka, Acqua Bianca, eucalyptus and anise aromatic ice).

As we sipped away the drinks

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confided more of their stories.

And as the evening light slowly began to fade, we slipped out on to the equally stunning terrace itself to enjoy the breathtaking views over the Gulf of Palermo, still imagining ourselves in the glamorous company of our famous friends from a bygone age when stars of stage and screen really were stars. And, just for the briefest of moments, thanks to the sumptuous surroundings and those exceptionally exquisite drinks, make-believing that we were stars too.

TA K E 3

TAKE THREE INGREDIENTS

by Juliette Laroui, The Schmucks French Aperitif

“Three ingredients that are very French and very much remind me of home. I really love Pineau des Charentes and armagnac is one of my favourite spirits. They’re both very complex ingredients with their own distinct flavours that come together to create a delicious cocktail.”

40ml Vieux Pineau des Charentes 40ml Dolin Dry Vermouth 20ml armagnac Method: Stir all the ingredients over ice, then strain into a chilled Nick & Nora glass or coupette. Spritz with orange zest and discard.

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HOW-TO

LIQUID INTELLIGENCE

Cocktail-making tips from the top with Jack Sotti

F

or more than 100 years, classic cocktail recipes and styles were passed from country to country, down the generational bartender ladder, defining what a cocktail should taste like and how it is composed. Fruits like the humble lemon were propelled to stardom – now a staple on every cocktail list, in every bar, in every city in the world, whether it is native to the region or not.

The growing trend of locality is redefining the hospitality landscape, and regional flavours are starting to shine through. You now have distinctly Australian cocktails with all sorts of myrtles, wattleseed, finger limes and gums, and South American cocktails with their rich tapestry of corns and exotic fruits the likes of which have never been seen on the global stage. Locality is adding colour, depth and complexity to our little black book of drinks.

How do we create the ultimate local cocktail? Do you focus on local farms and foraged flora? Or if you’re in the city, do you utilise a waste stream from a local producer, like coffee chaff from your local roaster?

These are all great starting points but it is also worth noting that a local serve doesn’t necessarily have to mean local ‘to you’ – it could be local to the region of your base spirit or the style of cocktail you are trying to design.

The old adage “what grows together, goes together” has never been truer when it comes to cocktails. And this is because of the local microbiomes that exist around the world. The unseen underworld connecting plants and animals, diligently working away, decomposing and giving life to everything that grows. This is most evident in spontaneously fermented products like sourdough, some sour beers, mead, krauts, kimchis and more.

This inevitably leads us to raw honey.

Captured within honey’s sticky confines is a host of bacteria, yeast and pollen from the immediate vicinity of where it was sourced, and by diluting honey it

Bee’s Knees 50ml Renais Gin 1 egg white 20ml fresh lemon juice 20ml acacia honey syrup 5ml Fino Sherry Method: Add all ingredients to a cocktail shaker filled with large chunks of clear, quality ice. Shake vigorously. Strain into a chilled coupette glass.

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allows us to wake up these colonies and kickstart them into action, fermenting the sugars into complex flavours. These colonies can be further enhanced by utilising yeasts on freshly grown or foraged goods to infuse into your honey.

All of this microbial action needs to be controlled and that’s where salt comes in, arresting the development of any nasties.

A great base recipe for this Lacto Scented Honey can be found in the god of all books on the matter: The Noma Guide to Fermentation.

For a great way to use local honey in a cocktail, I use Renais Gin from Chablis and pair it with an acacia honey indicative of the region. See recipe on the left and use it as a base, swapping in your own local gin and honey.

E AT & D R I N K

MAINS & MARTINIS

Three stylish venues, each very different but united in their intention to make the cocktails every bit as delicious as the food

Hakkasan

8 HANWAY PLACE, LONDON, W1T 1HD hakkasan.com (£££)

The vibe: Looking for the perfect setting for your next date night? Hakkasan delivers on every front. It’s lush and dark – very dark – has plenty of intimate nooks and crannies and oozes sexiness in an early 2000s way. That’s not us being sniffy, it’s fact. Hakkasan Hanway Place opened in 2001 and still has that slickness that saw it gain the first Michelin star for a Chinese restaurant in the UK, and retain it for 20 years.

That tells you everything you need to know.

The food: This is our favourite way to dine out: sharing dishes and plenty of them. It would be rude not to start with at least one serving of classic and supreme dim sum – here, perfect pillows of deliciousness, almost jewel-coloured and every bit as precious in the taste department.

Salt and pepper squid, golden fried soft shell crab, 24-hour slow-roasted Iberico pork char siu and steamed Chilean sea bass are just some suggestions of where to take your tastebuds next; for vegetarian options, the tofu, aubergine and Japanese mushroom claypot, and spring vegetable stir fry with mushroom and a side of spring onion and egg fried rice are the way to go.

There’s a fantastic selection on offer but if you’re daunted by the choice, go for one of the Signature Menus – they give you the best bits of everything.

The drinks: Hats off to head of bars Wendy Hopkins and her team – every signature drink on the menu is now available as a non-alc version.

That means the same glassware, same garnish, same flavour profile and the same feeling of being part of the group. It makes for a powerful offering and after tasting several of the alcohol and nonalcohol variations side-by-side, we’d be lying if we said you couldn’t tell the difference – there’s something about the texture but certainly not the taste. They’ve done a mighty fine job indeed. In fact, we may shun the alcohol next time – that’s how well they’ve done.

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Johnnie Walker Princes Street 145 PRINCES STREET, EDINBURGH, EH2 4BL johnniewalker.com (£££)

The vibe: Set atop Johnnie Walker Edinburgh Princes Street (an allencompassing world of tours, tastings, bars and beautiful views), the Explorers’ Bothy bar is a clever reworking of what is normally associated with the world of whisky. No dark wood and old leather here. It’s bright and modern, with beautifully displayed bottles, contemporary art and stunning views.

Perfect for whisky aficionados and curious newbies alike.

The food and drinks: The new offering brings together clever pairings through a collaboration between head bartender Miran Chauhan and chefs James and Maria Close (from the two-Michelin-starred Raby Hunt in Darlington). We went for the

Four Corners menu, a celebration of the distilleries at the heart of blending Johnnie Walker.

First up was Glenkinchie. The cocktail, combining the whisky with Hedgerow Aquavit, accompanied an eye-catching Beef Tartare. As with all the courses, we were advised to practice a sipping, biting, sipping ritual to fully appreciate the drink and dish interaction. The intense flavour of the cocktail confidently complemented the richness of the tartare.

Clynelish was mixed with Coastline Amaro for a refreshing drink that evoked

the sea and enhanced the invigorating intensity of the Aguachile Oyster. And the subtle sweetness of Caol Ila, with Cliff Edge Vermouth, contrasted beautifully with the savouriness intensity of the Quail Caesar.

To conclude came Cardhu with Sparkling Orchard Wine, alongside which there appeared to be a particularly small, shiny green apple, complete with stalk and leaf. In fact, it was an incredibly crafted, incredibly sweet, melt-in-the-mouth dessert. Another perfect food and drink pairing to complete our fabulous four corners journey.

The Midland Grand Dining Room ST PANCRAS RENAISSANCE HOTEL, LONDON, NW1 2AR midlandgranddiningroom.com (£££)

The vibe: This is grand alright but it couldn’t be more inviting. Sumptuous but in a sink-into kinda way, its warming palette of corals and reds, offset with flickers of gold and pink marble, is softened with pouffy and generously sized chairs. The bones of the place, triple-height ceilings and all, date back to the 19th-century Gothic Revival hotel that originally occupied the building and opened in 1873, but the recent makeover is the work of Harry Handelsman and interior designer Hugo Toro and it’s bloody gorgeous.

The food: Patrick Powell’s menu is French-inspired, British focused and guaranteed to be a universal hit. Highlights include the veal sweetbread, wild mushroom, lovage and asparagus vol-au-vent starter, and a main of navarin of lamb, turnips, mint and anchovy was another triumph. Save room for the dark, dense and delicious twice-baked chocolate cake with sour cherry and vanilla – it’s soooo good.

The drinks: Echoing the look and feel of the adjacent Midland Grand Dining Room but with its own personality, the menu at the Gothic Bar (left), is centred around fruit eau de vie. The Eau de Martini, based on your choice of either Hepple Gin or X Muse Vodka, stirred with the house blended vermouth and finished tableside with a theatrical spritz of your selected eau de vie, is an absolute delight.

FLAVOURS OF LIMA

Destination Peru for some of the most inspiring flavour experiences in the world

The Bowler cocktail at Sastrería Martínez

I

f you had to pinpoint the time that the world sat up and started to take notice of the Peruvian capital and its cuisine, it would probably be 2013. That was the year Central shyly poked its head in at number 50, joining fellow Lima restaurant Astrid y Gastón (then at number 14), on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Since then, interest has grown considerably. And justifiably. In case you hadn’t heard, Central did the big one and topped the list this year, the first Latin American restaurant to do so since the prestigious 50 Best Restaurants list started 21 years ago. And with Maido bubbling brightly away at number six, Kjolle at number 28 and Mayta at number 47, Peru is now the city with the highest number of restaurants on the entire list. Also worth mentioning is Mérito, just waiting in the wings at 59. It’s little wonder Lima has been steadily establishing itself as a serious foodie destination. And where there’s good food you can bet your last Peruvian sol that there will be great cocktails.

“Having Central at number one is good for the city, good for the country, good for everybody,” says Diego Macedo, owner of speakeasy bar Sastrería Martínez and the man who invited us to Peru to see and taste what all the fuss is about for ourselves.

Like chef-owners Virgilio Martínez Véliz at Central, Pía León at Kjolle and Jaime Pesaque at Mayta, he proudly puts Peru and its incredibly diverse and unique larder of indigenous ingredients front and centre of his creations. “It’s a big country full of amazing flavours. Now that the attention is on the kitchen with our great chefs and some of the best restaurants in the world, why shouldn’t we do the same with cocktails?” he reasons. “In some cases we use even more fruit and herbs than they do in the kitchen. So why can’t we bring the attention to our drinks?” Why not indeed.

Let’s hear it for Lima and its bars…

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I N T E R N AT I O N A L

Sastrería Martínez

Of course, we have to start with Sastrería Martínez… Only a year old and already causing quite the stir. No doubt the attention, local and otherwise, is buoyed by the bar having been singled out as a 50 Best Discovery (the part of the 50 Best platform that highlights bars and restaurants endorsed by its Academy of experts). “That happened within our first three months of opening,” Diego says, incredulously. “We couldn’t believe it! I think a lot of the interest came because we had a unique proposal. Yes, there are speakeasies all over the world but not here in Lima,” he continues. “We were the first real speakeasy and the people loved it. At first they came because they saw the photos on Instagram, but they keep coming back and they tell their friends – that’s the best kind of marketing. They love the service, the drinks, our food and the setting.”

Ah, the setting. Like Diego says, modern iterations of the speakeasy are hardly new but Sastrería is the full package. Set behind a subterranean tailor shop frontage, the entrance is via an extremely handsome atelier decked out with bolts of suiting fabric, a vintage Singer sewing machine, threads, bobbins, chalk – the lot – all acting as a clever foil before you pass through the secret door and into the bosom of the suitably clandestine bar.

The bar wasn’t always going to be a tailor. “We toyed around with the concept of a library but decided that this gave us more scope to be much more creative.

Plus, I can wear suits and be on stage, playing a role,” which is a huge bonus for a man who originally wanted to be

S A ST R E TR Î A M A RT Í N E Z I M AG ES : AG EN C IA M E NU. P E

Top right: Diego Macedo inside Sastrería Martínez; Above: The tailor shop frontage; Below: Mr Martinez served from a steam iron

an actor. The tailor theme also makes for a brilliant launchpad for menu development.

The recently launched Collection 2023 menu is a case in point. Each of the 18 cocktails is inspired by classic recipes from the 1920s and 30s and has a respectful nod to the art of tailoring, as seen in the garnishes, including a natty shirt cuff trimming for the Chaqué (p. 53), a milk chocolate button with a moustache on the Bespoke Negroni and a tape measure atop the Juan de Alcega. The pièce de résistance is the Mr Martinez 2.0, pictured left (Johnnie Walker Gold Label Reserve infused with cheesecake, vermouth blanc with thyme, bergamot, quinine and cocoa mucilage), served in an old-fashioned steam iron.

Eye-catching serves are one thing but Diego takes pride in showcasing native ingredients such as tumbo (Peruvian passion fruit), muña (Andean mint), choclo (large-kernel corn) and macambo (the lesser-known cousin of the cacao plant). “I love my country, I love its flavours and I love bringing them both together in my drinks.” sastreriamartinez.com

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Alphonse

A little later to the scene is Alphonse and like every self-respecting speakeasy, it adheres to the three principal rules: 1) An entrance that belies what’s in-store; 2) A (not-so) secret code to gain access; and 3) More often than not, a team of braces-clad bartenders working their magic in an atmospheric, dimly lit room. Alphonse clearly received the memo and ticks all three boxes. There’s even a coat stand complete with hats, caps and boas for guests to enter into the spirit of things.

Located ‘somewhere’ in the fivestar Westin hotel, the bar takes its name from Alphonse ‘Al’ Capone. To prove it, there’s a giant projection of the man keeping watch over proceedings from above the bar.

The menu design takes its cue from a newspaper of the era, featuring drinks like Monkey Business (Jack Daniel’s, Martini Bianco, banana saccharum and grapefruit) and House Mafia (Johnnie Walker Gold Label Reserve, Alipus Mezcal, Martini Rosso, Campari and chocolate bitters). @alphonse.lima

Carnaval

Aaron Díaz brings to mind a mixology magpie in the way that he’s cherry-picked his favourite bits from the bars where he’s worked around the world and brought them together in his carnival-inspired space. It’s playful and creative on the surface but behind the Insta-friendly serves, it’s serious stuff.

Opened in 2018 and the first bar in Lima to make its way on to The World’s 50 Best Bars list, Carnaval is designed as a kitchen, with four stations dedicated to making different cocktails. There’s also a dedicated Ice Room with an ice chef in charge of the 15 or so distinct shapes suited to specific drinks. The menu is designed to bring a smile to your face, with creative twists on relatively modern classics such as the Espresso Martini (Smirnoff Black Vodka, Luxardo Maraschino, double espresso, rhubarb and Gran Kafa), Painkiller (Abel 12 Year Old, pineapple, banana, coco and orange bitters) and Jungle Bird (Zacapa Ambar Rum, lychee, pineapple, Campari, jungle cane and honey). They’re bright, they’re fun, they’re tasty. We love the idea of the cocktail samplers: three mini takes on classic classics, including the tasty trios comprising Dry Martini, Gibson and Dirty Martini, or Negroni, Boulevardier and Bijou. @carnavalbar

Gabriela León and Alonso Palomino from Lady Bee (below)

Lady Bee

C A R NAVA L I M AG ES : AGE NC I A M EN U.P E

Lady Bee brings husbandand-wife team Gabriela León and Alonso Palomino together in their small but very impressive bar, where the focus is very much on the theme of this issue: celebrating all things local.

Alonso is on drinks, each one highlighting native ingredients and often made with non-commercial, local spirit brands. Gabriela, meanwhile, draws on her talent working in kitchens such as the esteemed Noma in Copenhagen to whip up a selection of dishes to pair with the cocktails, again focusing on produce from local farmers.

It goes without saying that the Lady Bee cocktail is one to try, made with Lady Bee Gin, Amazonian honey from the family farm, citrus leaves and floral tonic water. @ladybee.lima

Good-time drinks and a carnival spirit at Carnaval

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I N T E R N AT I O N A L

Four of the 50 Best Restaurants

Centre left: A selection of dishes at Maido (below, centre); Below: Corn, quinoa and chillies at Mayta

Central

The only one that we didn’t get to eat in but did get to see: Virgilio Martínez Véliz’s Central is a lesson in pared-back luxe.

The immaculate space is where he weaves his magic, bringing a taste of Peru’s many different ecosystems to his guests’ curious palates. centralrestaurante.com.pe

Above: A peek inside Central; Top: Corn, purple cabbage, mochero chili and beef cheek from the Kjolle Experience

Kjolle

Maido

One floor up from Central and equally impressive is Kjolle, the solo project from Véliz’s wife and Central’s co-founder, Pía León. It’s an absolute stunner – spacious, light and airy, dreamy almost – and with just nine tables, there’s room to take everything in. The design is comfortable luxury, with all fixtures and fittings made from natural materials, all sourced from in and around the region.

Again, the focus is on the land, highlighting the bounty grown or found on the coast or in the desert, foothills, mountains and Amazon jungle. You can go off-piste and order from an à la carte menu, but we went all out with the Kjolle Experience: eight courses of utter brilliance, spotlighting an array of Peruvian pleasures including manà, kañigua, black mashwa, quinoa leaf and a range of tubers, all presented from the open kitchen where Pía can be seen cooking up a storm. kjolle.com

Maido means ‘welcome’ in Japanese and it’s something you’ll hear the team bellow in unison every time a customer walks up the stairs. It’s a busy, more tightly packed restaurant than the other three and unlike the others on this list, the food combines Peruvian ingredients with Japanese techniques. The result? Nikkei cuisine. Try it from the sushi bar, ordering à la carte options, or going all out on the Nikkei Experience tasting menu, which we did.

Seafood is the star, with the tuna served wafer thin and sliced and seared tableside a particular highlight. maido.pe

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Mayta

Jaime Pesaque’s love for the land is evident – not just in the name of his restaurant (Mayta means ‘noble land’ in the Aymara language) but in the wood and plants that dictate the mood of the room and the array of colourful dishes that are presented within it. Like Kjolle, the 11-course tasting menu heroes native ingredients – including tubers, corn, alpaca (yes, alpaca!), Andean cheese and cushuro, amongst others – so imaginatively presented that it’s almost a crime to eat them.

Jaime Pesaque, we salute you. maytalima.com

PARTING SHOT

COMMUNITY MATTERS

In Barcelona, one bar is ensuring that its waste is being put to good use and it aims for its neighbours to do the same The last word goes to Paradiso in Barcelona and its recently launched Zero Waste Lab. Keeping its commitment to recycling close to home, the plan is a closed-loop system where the bar transforms its own waste into a range of bottle openers, plates and coasters, straw holders and ashtrays, like the one pictured here. Community-minded Paradiso’s ultimate aim is to invite local venues to drop off their waste, for it to be given a new lease of life too. paradiso.cat/en/sustainability

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