ISSUE 34
WINTER 2020
The Inspire Issue
ISSN 2052 0603
IN-gredients
30. IN-the spotlight Gokan, go!
Shingo Gokan reveals his two major projects for 2020. Warning: they’re going to be huge…
7. IN-the know
25 reasons to be a cocktail lover this season
Being app happy, increasing our water intake, flying smart and being knit-wits – just a few of the things we’re looking forward to in the upcoming months
36. IN-style Class acts
Drinks brands with bottle (including stand-out packaging and inspiring stories to boot)
13. IN-the know The place
Get your creative juices flowing at Tayer + Elementary
15. IN-the know The drink
In praise of Chris Moore's amazing poshed-up Piña Colada
17. IN-the know
42. IN-style
Meet the new addition to the Hendrick’s family (and it’s probably not what you think…)
Jane Ryan rounds up the most inspiring drinks menus of the decade
18. IN-the know
48. IN-dulge
The bottle
The people
A tribute to the late, great Gary Regan
22. IN-the spotlight Leaders of the pack
There’s no shortage of talented individuals in this game but there are some who really stand out. Check out our eight greats
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Cocktails and dreams
Greener thinking
…for cleaner drinking at home
50. IN-focus Light fantastic
How an inspiring use of light led to a showstopping drinks launch
IN-gredients
52. IN-focus
Editors: Sandrae Lawrence Gary Sharpen
10 of the best drinking experiences
Drinks buffs Anistatia Miller and Jared Brown pick out their favourite moments in bars
56. IN-focus
Office Manager: Tereza Singh Sub-editor: Laura Hills Creative Director: James Cheverton at Burnt Studio burntstudio.com
Bright sparks
Who or what inspires the bartenders? Find out here
60. IN-formed Mains & Martinis
Three London restaurants where the drinks are every bit as delicious as the food
62. IN-formed Word up
News, views and reviews from the cocktail front
66. IN-ternational The perfect dozen
Bars that inspire? Virginia Miller reveals her favourites, and they don’t include the usual suspects
70. IN-the know The Flavour Thesaurus The last word in great taste
Photography Adam Goodison adamgoodisonphotography.com Contributors: Jared Brown Anistatia Miller Virginia Miller Jane Ryan Phoebe Shakespeare Lauryn Tomlinson Miles Watson
For all editorial and advertising enquiries, please contact: mail@thecocktaillovers.com T: 020 7242 2546 thecocktaillovers.com Printed by Stephens & George Distributed by Gold Key Media Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of The Cocktail Lovers Magazine without prior permission from the editors is strictly prohibited. The Cocktail Lovers Issue No. 34 Winter 2020 The Cocktail Lovers magazine is published by The Cocktail Lovers Ltd. in London, UK PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY
The Cocktail Lovers are proud winners of Best Cocktail & Spirits Publication, Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Awards 2016 and The London Evening Standard Progress 1000 – London’s Most Influential People 2015 and 2017. Also shortlisted for Best Food & Drinks Publication in the British Society of Magazine Editors (BSME) Awards 2019
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Contributors
Phoebe Shakespeare
Adam Goodison
Phoebe Shakespeare is a London-based set designer and props stylist specialising in fashion and events. She creates illusionary worlds, whatever the scale, to enchant and immerse the viewer. Her work is in demand by the likes of Harvey Nichols, Converse, Apple Music and Selfridges, with editorial commissions for publications including Vogue Italia, ES Magazine, AnOther and The Telegraph.
“The most inspiring work I’ve done was a trip to the Spanish/ Portuguese border a few years ago to photograph a festival of near-death experiences, or rather, those people who should have died but somehow survived against the odds,” says Adam.
Who or what inspires you? “For the shoot in this issue I was inspired by the Surrealists and in particular the Italian painter Giorgio de Chirico.” Phoebe’s impressive sets can be seen on page 36.
Who or what inspires you? “Inspiration comes to me in many forms – rarely from one situation or individual. I tend to find inspiration on the streets or in nature, when I can be alone with my camera and outside the highly controlled shoot environments I usually find myself in. The freedom to be anonymous for a second or two is inspiring to me and helps me to see things through the camera slightly differently.” See Adam’s photographs for this issue on page 36.
The Cocktail Girl
Jane Ryan
Our Cocktail Girl has been writing about cocktails in London for the past 10 years. And it’s a job she takes extremely seriously. Mostly you’ll find her perched at the bar, studying the menus and listening to the rhythm of the bartender’s shake, although she’s also partial to a cosy booth.
Jane writes creatively and for a number of drinks publications but the work she found most inspiring was working at Cub, the sustainable restaurant in London. “I loved explaining to people how the food we eat can make an impact on the world and why the ingredients in the dish were considered, lovingly made and better for the planet.”
Who or what inspires you? “Over the years I’ve met countless bartenders who have inspired me by the way they create drinks. There’s Matt Whiley and Rich Woods over at Scout, the Venning brothers and Rosey Mitchell at Three Sheets, everyone at Swift, the guys at Homeboy and Andy Mil and co. at Murder Inc. There’s never been a better time to be a cocktail-loving Londoner.” For this issue The Cocktail Girl visits Scarfes Bar (p. 63).
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Who or what inspires you? “I’m constantly inspired by distillers the world over. When you meet someone with weathered hands who has tended their stills for a generation, knows the crop they are fermenting and puts a sense of place into every drop of liquid – surely that’s what we’re all here for. It renews my sense of love for this industry and inspires me to be as dedicated, as certain and as constant.” Jane picks her favourite drinks menus of the decade on page 42.
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IN-the know
REASONS TO BE A COCKTAIL LOVER THIS SEASON
andy warhol (1928-1987) self portrait 1986. tate. ©2019 theandy warhol foundation for the visual arts, inc / artists right (ars), new york
What’s cooking in the world of cocktails as we kick off 2020? Here are a few of the things that we’re looking forward to in the next few months
N1
Channelling the Factory vibe You don’t have to give a jot about art to recognise images of Andy Warhol. The same can be said for his work. There are the iconic pieces from the Pop period, you know the ones, the Marilyn Diptych, Campbell’s Soup Cans and that fab series of Elvis pics, then there’s his famous Screen Tests. In fact, Warhol’s art took in all kinds of fascinating insights into American culture, captured in dramatic large-scale paintings, films, publishing and television – all of which are among the
100 works that can be seen in this latest exhibition opening at Tate Modern. There’s only one way to prepare drinks-wise and that’s with a cocktail and Art Afternoon Tea at the Rosewood London. Ordering a Campbell’s Soup Cans (Belvedere Vodka, clear tomato cordial and Kamm & Sons), naturally. ‘Andy Warhol’ is at the Tate Modern from 12 March to 6 September. Early booking advised. tate.org.uk The Cocktail Lovers - 7
IN-the know
2
Being app happy
This isn’t a coaster, this is the Barsys Coaster, a cocktail-making whizz at your fingertips. Choose a drink that you’d like to make from the Barsys app, place your glass on the base and add the liquids – no need to measure, the coaster changes colour when you need to start and stop pouring. Now that’s what we call smart technology. thebarsys.com
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THREE
Keeping a lid on it That’s the bases covered. For the future of lids, check out what they’re up to at Amorim Top Series – they’re all about engaging the senses. amorimtopseries.com
SIX
…and for incorporating the blues into your cocktail-making skills, there’s this. Iko Blue Glass Cocktail Shaker, oliverbonas.com
SEVEN
Getting busy with the fizzy
For bubbles every day, your way, get yourself a SodaStream. Perfect for soft drinks as well as sparkling cocktails, one reusable carbonating bottle can save up to 1,282 single-use plastic bottles each year. sodastream.com
Covering up If you’re going to wear an apron when you’re making drinks, make sure it’s worth looking at. Get yours from mrmurka.com
05
Feeling the blues This year is all about Pantone 19-4052 (that’s classic blue to you and us). Discover how that tastes with the Pantone Colour of the Year 2020 tea blend, combining lemon verbena, lemongrass, rose petal and the addition of butterfly pea flower for that distinctly fashionable hue. tealeaves.com
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Rethinking liqueurs
The next big thing in drinks? Liqueurs reimagined by top bartenders. Look out for Acqua Bianca, a blend of lemon, bergamot, peppermint, ambergris and rose from Salvatore Calabrese, and the intensely rich, deeply delicious Dutch Cacao by Joerg Meyer.dekuyper.com
NINE …then there are cordials. We’re absolutely smitten with Paragon, the new single botanical cordial series by Alex Kratena (p. 27). If you think you know what pepper tastes like, prepare to think again. paragoncordials.com
IN-the know
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Switching up the decanter
Forget glass, if we’re decanting whisky or rum from a bottle, we’re putting it straight back into wood. The Whisky Echo Tango decanter is the business – beautiful to look at and with the neat infusion chamber in the base, you can add oak spheres to play around with the flavour. nisnasindustries.com
ELEVEN Being knit-wits
It’s official: cocktail knits, they’re a thing. Sip pretty in this embellished cotton, silk and cashmere number by BA&SH at selfridges.com
13
12 …or you can always knit your own using 4-ply wool from the Cocktail Range at West Yorkshire Spinners. Choose from Mojito, Blue Lagoon, Rum Paradise and Tequila Sunrise. wyspinners.com
Increasing our water intake Can’t trust yourself to drink enough water? Switch up to a HidrateSpark 3 bottle. Glowing reminders and text notifications keep you on track based on your activity levels, ensuring you reach your optimum hydration level every day. hidratespark.com
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…add a long ice cube specially designed for a water bottle and you’re done. conranshop.co.uk
Sharing the love
Flying smart
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Mind you, if you’re travelling with your amour on Valentine’s Day, it would be churlish not to pack a Rosé All Day Cocktail Kit. The limited-edition tin includes elderflower syrup, rosé gummy bears, linen coasters and a bar spoon – just add sparkling wine. And love.
wandpdesign.com
SEVENTEEN
Really, the only thing you should be drinking before, during and after a flight is water. But if you must add something extra, make it the contents of My Flight Pack. The three sachets take in Prep, Rest and Wake, preparing you to take on the time zone of your destination like a boss. myflightpack.com
FOURTEEN
Paying lip service Ladies who like wine will love the Wine Not Lip Gloss & Brush Set. Not only is the rouge-tinted gloss vegan-friendly, it comes with a large wine glass-shaped, wine-coloured complexion brush. Chin, chin! tartecosmetics.com
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IN-the know
18
NINETEEN
Teasing out the flavour of food
…speaking of which, if you only make one change to your drinking
Looking for an alternative to wine with your meals? Try tea. Saicho is a range of three sparkling cold brews specially chosen to pair with food. Perfect for keeping your drier resolutions firm. saichodrinks.com
habit, make it swapping your usual aperitif for an Æcorn Dry and tonic. N/A but bursting with character – it saved us through Dry January. aecorndrinks.com
20 21
TWENTY TWO Feeding our skin Winter takes its toll on the skin. Feed yours with Skin Drink by Virginutty at wearthlondon.com
Taking note
Keep track of all your cocktail recipes and musings in this. Piña Colada Fabric Notebook, penelopehope.com
Wrapping up Time for a new bar kit? Treat yourself to this handsome number by Nappa Dori. It’s smart but even better, a portion of the profits goes to charity. conranshop.co.uk
24 Changing shape We’re not saying that Champagne tastes better from this design by Michael Ruh, but looks-wise, it sure stands out from the crowd. thenewcraftsmen.com
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Boxing smart Three reasons to have NIO cocktails on your radar: they’re CD-sized, ready-to-drink and formulated by top bartender Patrick Pistolesi. Choose from 14 drinks and build a box of three, six or nine cocktails that gets posted through your door. niococktails.co.uk
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TWENTY FIVE Making like a barista Take your at-home coffee-making skills up a notch with a new milk frother from Smeg. Available in five colours, it’s the ideal way to inject some retro cool into your kitchen. smeguk.com
Discover the finest contemporary silver and jewellery from over 300 designer-makers. www.thegoldsmithsdirectory.co.uk
Cocktail set: Martyn Pugh
THERE’S A HIGHBALL IN YOUR FUTURE
IN-the know
THE PLACE Tayer + Elementary There are two very distinct zones with corresponding moods at Tayer + Elementary. That said, both have conviviality at their heart. Whether nursing a (refillable) coffee or sampling one of the palate-pleasing seasonal drinks in the light-filled, day-to-night Elementary up front, or watching the bartenders as they prepare their cocktails with chef-like precision at the central bespoke bar at Tayer (above) in the back, the entire place fizzes with creativity. Inviting, informal, ingenious. For more inspiring places, see page 66. The Cocktail Lovers - 13
RHUBARB COLLINS
~ 30 ml Giffard Rhubarb liqueur 30 ml Gin 10 ml Giffard gum syrup 20 ml Fresh lemon juice 40 ml sparkling water
~ Method Shake first four ingredients with ice and strain into ice-filled glass
Garnish Rhubarb ribbon
~
Proudly distributed by Mangrove in the UK - www.mangroveuk.com 14 - The Cocktail Lovers
IN-the know
THE DRINK Champagne Piña Colada We don’t care what anyone says, everybody loves a Piña Colada – why wouldn’t they? It’s literally happiness in a glass. Add rhum agricole, pineapple cordial, coconut sorbet and a healthy measure of Champagne into the mix and pow! You’ve got yourself spiritual perfection right there. Accessible but elegant, decadent but instantly moreish, Chris Moore’s inspiring twist on what was once a guilty pleasure has justifiably earned itself a place in the cocktail hall of fame. Try one – we’re sure it won’t be your last. Available at coupette.co.uk The Cocktail Lovers - 15
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IN-the know
THE BOTTLE Hendrick’s Absinthe
One thing that you can always expect from those curious folk at Hendrick’s is the unexpected. Take their latest release, for instance. Not a gin but an absinthe, inspired by the dreamers and literati of the Belle Époque and artfully reimagined for modern palates. Yarrow, elderflower and neroli along with rose and cucumber add an unexpected lightness that lends itself perfectly to mixing. For now, only 4,000 bottles are available exclusively to UK bartenders. For more inspiring bottles, see page 36.
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IN-the know
THE PEOPLE They don’t make them like Gary (gaz) Regan any more. Renowned in drinks circles around the world for his wit, words and wisdom, the Lancashireborn, New York-made bartender, author and educator passed away in November last year and we can honestly say that the drinks industry has been a sadder place ever since. His many accolades include writing for publications such as Wine Enthusiast, Malt Advocate, San Francisco Chronicle and these very pages, while his books, 'The Joy of Mixology', 'The Bartender’s Bible' and 'The Negroni: a gaz regan notion' among them, have earned a place in every bartender’s arsenal. Other highlights in his impressive career take in Cocktails in the Country, a twoday bartending course with a ‘zen-like’ approach, which he ran from his home in Cornwall-on-Hudson, north of Manhattan, and the e-newsletter he published four times a week. As a press release sent out after his death said, “We can actually hear him say, ‘What the hell are you people going to do without me?’” Gary Regan passed away in New York on 15th November 2019, aged 68.
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IN-the know
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Leaders of the pack
IN-the spotlight
In praise of the visionaries who are pushing the drinks industry forward
f uck t rum p and his st u pid l l a w g n i k c u f
IN-the spotlight
It might not seem like a big deal now but when Jim Meehan opened PDT in New York’s East Village in May 2007, speakeasies weren’t really a thing. They existed of course, Milk & Honey and Angel's Share among them. But then PDT came along, and the fact that you could only gain access by picking up the receiver in a telephone booth situated in a hot dog joint caused quite the stir. Not just with excitable punters but curious press as well. “I never intended PDT to be a speakeasy, but we were called a speakeasy so many times that when Time magazine called up and wanted to do a feature on speakeasies, I took it,” Jim says matter-of-factly. Smart move. Thanks to his eloquence, quest for perfection and ability to craft a mighty fine cocktail, he’s regarded as one of the brightest minds in the biz. And he has the accolades to prove it, including World’s Best Cocktail Bar, American Bartender of the Year and Outstanding Bar Program for his work at PDT, and Best Bar Mentor in recognition of everything he does/ has done to nurture the next generation of bartenders. Part of that takes in the two books that he’s written, The PDT Cocktail Book and Meehan’s Bartender Manual, both award-winners in their own right. Then there’s the range of products that he’s collaborated on, including a sleek collection of leather goods with Moore & Giles, a dry grapefruit soda with East Imperial, advising on Banks Rum and custom spice blends for the ultimate Bloody Mary with La Boîte. He’s no longer at PDT but he continues to inform and inspire at every turn. Catch him at one of his talks throughout the year. mixographyinc.com
Thanks to his eloquence, quest for perfection and ability to craft a mighty fine cocktail, he’s re garded as one of the brightest minds in the biz
Jim Meehan
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IN-the spotlight
Gokan, go! There’s a reason why Shingo Gokan is the only person on the planet with three bars in the World’s 50 Best Bars list: the man is a freakin’ ‘G’. Razor-sharp, in both the way he thinks as well as his dapper style, you can always rely on him to have an inspiring project on the go.
IN-the spotlight
Since winning the Bacardí Legacy Global Finals with his clever matcha tea and sherry-based rum cocktail Speak Low in 2012, the Tokyo-born bartender who made his name at Angel’s Share in New York has continued to win people over. And if you’ve met him, you’ll know why. On the one hand he radiates a reassuring inner warmth and calm that is quite rare in the fast-paced world of drinks, on the other, Gokan very much lives up to the first two letters of his name. It took two years from him taking the Legacy title to immortalising his winning cocktail in the name of his first award-winning bar. Next came Sober Company, opened in 2017. The Odd Couple, the good-times bar he set up with fellow Bacardí Legacy Finalist and multibar owner Steve Schneider, followed a year after that. All three are in Shanghai and doing very nicely thank you very much. In 2018 Shingo opened The SG Club, his first bar back home in Japan. And while that saw him spending much of last year on Japanese soil, that didn’t stop him from having ideas for further afield. When we meet at Sober Company the day after the 2019 DMBA awards in Shanghai, where he and the team picked up two exquisitely crafted trophies for Cocktail Program and Bar of the Year, he has at least four initiatives planned for 2020 alone. We say at least four because the more we talk, the more Shingo remembers
what else is brewing. “Oh yes, we’re also going to be…” he peppers into the conversation as he mentally runs through his upcoming year. Some we can’t talk about. Yet. But the two biggies on his radar right now are game changers. One is the opening of his debut venue in New York, the other is the release of his very own spirit. Both, it must be said, are destined to be huge. Here’s why…
GOKAN Pairing food and cocktails – Gokan style Before setting up his bars in Asia, Shingo spent 10 years working at the much-lauded Angel’s Share in New York. Now he’s returning to the city with Gokan, a food and cocktail pairing joint in the Lower East Side. “We’re taking over a space at the Michelin-starred Japanese restaurant Uchu,” he begins. “One side is an omakase sushi bar which is very popular and Gokan will occupy the space that was once the kaiseki part of the operation.” It’s small, just enough for eight seats, but that suits Shingo’s concept perfectly.
The two biggies on his radar right now are game changers
left: teaser image of sg shochu, launching february 14th; above: render of gokan, heading stateside in april
IN-style
Class acts
From the eye-catching labels and bottles to the outstanding quality of the liquid inside, creativity reigns supreme in the world of drinks. But there are a few brands that shine out more than most. Here are a few of our favourites…
Inspired by: The migrating cuckoo travelling from West Africa to Scotland, via the length of Italy
Cucielo Rosso Vermouth di Torino Talk about an inspiring starting point for the creation of a liquid, this majestic vermouth – conceived by Andy Holmes and brought to life by Carlo Vergnano – took flight by echoing key stages in the journey of the migrating cuckoo. There’s the warmth of West Africa, reflected in the anise, clove and peppery notes and rich, warming colour. The freshness of Scotland, Andy’s homeland, comes by way of the bite of citrus peels and spark of pomegranate. And Italy is of course the home of Vermouth di Torino – as well as Master Blender Carlo. Our tip Enjoy it in a… Flight to Manhattan 40ml Cucielo Rosso Vermouth di Torino 5ml bourbon or rye whiskey 2 dashes Angostura aromatic bitters Method: Stir ingredients over ice and strain into a chilled Martini glass or Asti cup. Garnish with an orange twist or Maraschino cherry. artisan-spirits.co.uk
Photography by Adam Goodison Styling by Phoebe Shakespeare
IN-style
COCKTAILS AND DREAMS JANE RYAN SINGLES OUT HER MOST INSPIRING DRINKS MENUS FROM THE PAST DECADE
IN-style
We don’t go out to drink. In the age of same-day deliveries, 24-hour off-licences and YouTube tutorials on Negronis, there’s no reason to leave the house if you want to get a buzz on. No, we go out to experience something you can’t obtain in a supermarket, bottle shop or your aged parents’ liquor cabinet. We’re looking for something different. Whether it’s that human interaction with new and old faces, a story to tell or listen to, or just to escape the everyday routine of sleep, eat, work, repeat. There are many elements that the fine folk of the hospitality world can tinker with to figuratively transport you far from the passing of time. They can curate a soundtrack, dim the lights and distract you with creative and inspiring cocktail menus. A cocktail menu can literally be just a list of drinks, their ingredients plotted out to help you create an idea of what you’re ordering (often wrong, who knows how tequila, frangipani, lemon, green apple and spice will come out?
I don’t and I just made it up). No disrespect to bars that do that, some of them are among the very best in the world, here’s looking at you Happiness Forgets and Satan’s Whiskers. But over the past decade cocktail menus have striven to re-engage regulars and keep the bars spoken about in the media and beyond. Yes some have gone too far, they’re all style and no substance, but when done well, the cocktail menu can entertain, educate, inspire and guide you in the direction of new flavour experiences – ones you may have otherwise missed out on. Here are the very best we’ve seen since cocktails crawled out of the noughties and landed on Callooh’s mixed tape.
Odori We Will Always Have Athens (2018) Described as ‘a city guide with a difference’, this Athens cocktail list was inspired by the many neighbourhoods of the city. Not only did it evocatively describe them – the flea market humming with a mix of languages, the tiny taverns that nestle into the fabric of Varvakeios with its barrage of smells, sounds and flavours – but the menu also managed to distil the experience of walking through each area into a cocktail.
photograph: kosmas koumianos
The Odori team’s menu gave visitors an insight into their home and the myriad reasons they love it Complete with a pull-out map to take away, the Odori team’s menu gave visitors an insight into their home and the myriad reasons they love it whilst simultaneously giving locals a fresh way to see Athens. Its stand-out drink? Secret Alleys made with secret alley’s spritz, Assyrtiko wine, Martini Bitter, Martini Ambrato and a Greek herb cordial.
Callooh Callay Cassette Tape (2012) Callooh’s menus have always been high-concept, and lots of fun. This is a bar that has never taken itself too seriously, despite being considered one of the world’s best for most of its lifetime, and this has filtered down to its menus, from the Pantone to the Oyster Card, the Year Book to the Sticker Book. But the one that stands out in London’s collective memory is its Cassette Tape, bringing a touch of the 90s to 2012. Its cover screamed with the words ‘Now That’s What I Call Cocktails’ and promised 23 charttopping hits of summer. The insert listed all its drinks – many of which have become modernday classics, such as the Marmageddon which was served in a glass rimmed with marmite, or the grated-chocolate garnished Black Forest Cocktail. The menu was also home to An Ale of Two Cities, Sean Ware’s drink for the legendary 42 Below competition of 2008 and used 42 Below Feijoa Vodka, Punt e Mes vermouth, nettle cordial, malt syrup, granny smith apple juice and bitters, all served in an ale cup.
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IN-focus
10
of the most inspiring drinking moments of the past decade As experienced by Anistatia Miller and Jared Brown
The Connaught Cocktail Trolley
The 21-Second Martini Even before we first met, we both found ourselves drinking at Julian Niccolini’s Four Seasons Restaurant in New York during the late 80s and early 90s. The bar was attended by a venerable, corpulent New York-Irish bartender with understated wisdom akin to Jeeves who knew everyone by name and by drink. John Kelly had been there since the end of the last Ice Age, with Greg Connolly as his Sancho Panza for the last 25 years. Order a Martini and Kelly stirred your drink for precisely 21 seconds without checking his watch, straining it into a custom-made Nick & Nora from Tiffany. This was the glass that inspired the legendary bartender Audrey Saunders to locate and purchase Nick & Noras for Pegu Club, which in turn sparked a global trend.
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Cocktail trolleys originated during the late 1800s, but shot to the main stage in New York after Prohibition when one silly law mandated that bars could not be visible to restaurant patrons. To skirt that fatuous legislation, bartenders went mobile. There was nothing to stop them loading a trolley and mixing tableside, with the main bar and back bar safely out of sight. Needless to say, every venue adopted the cocktail trolley. Then they all but disappeared. While London’s Connaught Bar was not the first to resurrect the moveable liquid feast, there’s no question it took it to another level with Agostino Perrone’s mixing artistry supplying the final, masterful touch. We will never forget our first Martini from that cart, even though we may have forgotten the third or fourth a few times.
IN-focus
Chris’s Mint Julep Yes, there's an annual industry gathering in New Orleans. But if you ask us, a better reason to go to this drink mecca is to sit at Chris and Laura McMillian’s Revel Cafe & Bar and order a Mint Julep. A leading historian of this venerable classic and a fourth-generation Louisiana bartender, Chris knows the lore, the history and the verse that surrounds the liquid. He narrates this oral tradition as he pounds out the ice with a Lewis Bag and huge wooden mallet (that looks small in his hands), filling his silver Julep cups, then bringing the rest of the ingredients together during a 10-minute session of spoken-word poetry. Book ahead the moment you’re heading there because this doesn’t happen for casual walk-ins. We first met Chris at the Ritz-Carlton Library Lounge when we escorted a very lost Dale Degroff, who couldn't find his way thanks to too many Vieux Carrés at his previous destination. Chris was behind the legendary bar at the time, and it was there we first witnessed the theatrics that accompany his well-executed Mint Julep – just as he creates it at his own bar today.
El Floridita’s Other Menu
The Perfect View
It was our first time in El Floridita in Habana Vieja. We hadn’t yet met Head Bartender Alejandro Bolivar and he didn’t know us. We managed to grab two seats at the legendary ‘birthplace of the Daiquiri’. Alejandro immediately wiped our spot even though it was already spotless and placed a plate of platanos fritos before us. When he asked what we’d like, we replied that we left the decision to him. He smiled and nodded. We watched as he loaded up a couple of blenders of Daiquiris, pouring the rum in a high arc after spilling the first drops of a fresh bottle ‘por los santos’. He served out the resulting drinks to other customers. Then he grabbed a couple of mixing glasses and made us a Presidente and a Cuba Bella. The next round included a Jai Alai and a Mary Pickford. It’s hard to recall the rounds that followed, but not once did he hand us a Daiquiri that day. We were newbies at his bar and he was happy to give us a crash course in Cuban classics.
A well-trodden axiom of the hospitality world goes something like this: If it has a fabulous view, the drinks and the food are less than stellar and the prices are astronomical. But for every given there is an exception to the rule. Such was the case when we first walked into the rooftop bar at A for Athens, situated in the heart of the Plaka, above Monastiraki Square. A sleek, modern, hip accommodation that is blessed with the finest view of the city’s most iconic landmark, the Acropolis, little did we expect to be greeted by the classically handsome, smiling countenance of Head Bartender Thodoris Pirillos, who skilfully executed not only a perfect Gin Martini but more than a few brilliant creations of his own design. His drinks highlighted local specialities such as tsipouro and rakomelo and converted what could have been a mediocregoes-bad moment into a slice of pure heaven that has been repeated year after year for a decade.
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