The Cocktail Lovers Magazine Issue 12 Summer 2014

ISSN 2052 0603

In the hotseat Julie Reiner on life behind bars

Girls allowed Competitions with a female focus

The lady nose best Talking rum with Lorena Vasquez

+ 10 of the best glasses for Martini o’ clock

On the cover

Bowled over by the leading ladies of drinks

IN-tro

LET’S HE AR IT

FOR THE

GIRLS Not that we’re being sexist or anything but we do our fair share of giving the guys a jolly good pat on the back, now it’s time to do the same for the girls.

Believe us, we haven’t even touched the sides of the wealth of incredible female talent out there. Which is a good thing. It proves that even though there’s still a long way to go in terms of equal representation across the board, we’re much further down the road than we were before.

Someone who’s seen the changes over the last two and a half decades or so is the queen of the New York cocktail scene Julie Reiner. We talk to her about being an innovator and mentor to both men and women over the years (p. 10), and ask eight female bartenders around the world for their views from behind the stick (p. 12).

We cross to Guatemala where Lorena Vasquez packs a man-sized punch in her role as Master Blender at Zacapa rum (p. 48), while over in Georgia, LeeAnn Maxwell and Carrie King give us the lowdown on their vodka created with female drinkers in mind (p. 50).

And what about the ladies sharing the cocktail love in London? We hired a photographic studio, kitted it out with a rail full of clothes and asked some of the most influential women on the drinks scene to strike a pose for our ace photographer Johnnie Pakington (p. 40). We think you’ll agree, not only do they do a smashing job but they look pretty damned awesome as well.

Ladies of drinks we salute you.

Happy imbibing!

Ms S & Mr G

www.thecocktaillovers.com

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Enjoy Taboo responsibly

IN-gredients

6. IN-the know

36. IN-focus

25 reasons to be a cocktail lover this season Acting like we’re breaking bad, drinking art and succumbing to some serious pampering – just a few of the things we’re looking forward to in the next few months

Skinny vs. full-bodied Are you opting to go lighter on your cocktails or do you prefer to go big or go home? We argue the case for both

10. IN-terview

38. IN-dulge Glass acts Ten Martini glasses to covet

In the hotseat – Julie Reiner The queen of the New York cocktail scene on 25 years in the business and why it takes chutzpah to be a woman in drinks

40. IN-style

12. IN-spire

48. IN-dustry greats

Girls on top Is it really any different being a female behind the bar? We asked eight ace bartenders from around the world for their personal views

Head in the clouds Talking rum, nose insurance and true loves with Zacapa Master Blender Lorena Vasquez

22. IN-spire A few of my favourite things Inside the brilliant mind of Rebekkah Dooley, champion in hospitality marketing, menu design and social media management

24. IN-spire Ladybird books Yolanda Evans meets three authors with spirited tales to tell

26. IN-spire Take a walk on the wild side Grab a bucket and a good reference book and go foraging for cocktail ingredients – just like Emil Seth Areng

30. IN-the spotlight Girls allowed Celebrating the new wave of cocktail competitions which put women firmly in focus

30. IN-the spotlight The craft of: The professional ‘nose’ Nancy Fraler sheds light on what it takes to be a ‘ghost’ blender and why intutition plays a huge role in the job

35. IN-focus Drink to your health In the first in a new series Claire Smith and Georgia van Tiel share their top tips on how to drink responsibly

Get the drinks in with…

Our leading ladies. One studio, 16 incredible women all stirring things up very nicely in London

50. IN-dependent spirits Foxy ladies Vixen Vodka, created by women for women (but also enjoyed by men)

53. IN-the mix D.I.Y cocktail ingredients: Watermelon syrup Andy Campana gives the lowdown on making simple but delicious cocktail ingredients for the home and the bar

54. IN-the know Mains & Martinis Five London restaurants where the cocktails are as good as the food

56. IN-the know Word up…

News, views, reviews and interviews from the cocktail front

60. IN-sider’s guide Common wealth of drinking Inspired by the Commonwealth Games Fraser Barrett has put in the training to bring you the winning bars in Glasgow

62. IN-ternational There’s something about Cuba…

Drinking in the culture in Cuba’s capital of cool

66. IN-vite only

Editors: Sandrae Lawrence, Gary Sharpen Sub-editor: Sally Briggs Creative Director: James Cheverton at Burnt Studio burntstudio.com Illustrations: Melanie Milne mellmadedesign.com; pezandpencil.co.uk Becky Roberts doodleyboo.com Nick Schon nickschonillustrator.com; Photography: Johnnie Pakington johnniepakington.com; Travis Watson traviswatson@hotmail.co.uk Contributors: Emil Seth Areng, Fraser Barrett, Andy Campana, Yolanda Evans, Beth Redfern, Remy Savage, Claire Smith, Georgia van Tiel, Lauryn Tomlinson For all editorial and advertising enquiries, please contact: mail@thecocktaillovers.com 020 7242 2546 www.thecocktaillovers.com Printed by Polestar UK Print Ltd. Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of The Cocktail Lovers magazine without prior permission from the editors is strictly prohibited.

Cover shot: Clotilde Lataille, bartender at Hawksmoor, Spitalfields (for details, see p. 47) Issue No. 12 Summer 2014 The Cocktail Lovers magazine is published by The Cocktail Lovers in London, UK

PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY

Snap-shot The best bits from the last three months

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25

REASONS TO BE A COCKTAIL LOVER THIS SEASON Elevating our parties, making like bag ladies and playing to the crowd – just three of the things we’re looking forward to in the next three months

01

Slipping into our finest threads

La touche aka mr hat © dean chalkley; creative direction by harris elliott

in honour of Return of the Rudeboy, our cultural pick of the summer. With sharp shots from Dean Chalkley and a pop-up grooming station from rude bwoy barber Johnnie Sapong, it goes without saying it’s rum Old-Fashioneds all round.

Until 25 August at Somerset House. somersethouse.org.uk

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ACTING LIKE WE’RE BREAKING BAD

with our own chemists cocktail kit. Complete with test tubes, beaker, stirrer and shaker – all that’s missing is the white coat… thegiftoasis.com

03

IN-the know

Mixing cocktails al fresco packed with everything you need to make an A1 Margarita this limited-edition cocktail case is right on the money – bring on the sun! tipplesworth.com

4

Elevating our parties

‘Oh’ and ‘my’, have you seen how sexy this Möet Ice Impérial Limited Edition Summer Escape Trunk is? It takes bubbles on to a whole new level – particularly as these ones are created to be sipped over ice. Available exclusively at Selfridges. selfridges.com

06

STOPPING EVERYTHING FOR TEA

Seriously. As well as Bunny Cupcakes and savouries, the teatime treats at Playboy Club London, include your choice of a Fruity, Floral, Spicy or Classic cocktail made by Salvatore Calabrese. playboyclublondon.com

SEVEN

05

SUCCUMBING TO SOME SERIOUS PAMPERING

Top pick: the Sip & Spa package at One Aldwych hotel. Just the tonic for mind, body and spirit, this summer reviver takes in a 60-minute Natura Bissé Radiance Booster Facial, 30-minute energyboosting body scrub, plus a stunning cocktail in The Lobby Bar afterwards. We like. onealdwych.com

Beating the heat

by cooling off with an ice lolly. Sound boring? Then you obviously haven’t tasted a Lickalix poptail. Enjoy one of the 12 cocktail-licious combos including spiced rum and plum; banana Daiquiri and Pina Colada – they’re the biz! lickalix.com

08

TAKING THE BAR HOME

Three of the best bars in the world have created bottled cocktails for you to enjoy any time you bloomin’ well want. Try the Cocktails Collection from The Savoy available at selfridges.com; Small-Batch Cocktails from Eau de Vie in Australia via vintagecellars.com, or the Affinity cocktail from Bramble Bar, available through masterofmalt.com

09 Sipping from a Manolo Blahnik slipper We’re talking shiny black killer heels with the trademark red sole. Walter Pintus’s sparkling Tallulah cocktail is every bit as classy as the vessel it’s served in. Indulge your senses at The Ritz. theritzlondon.com The Cocktail Lovers - 7

IN-the know

10

MAKING LIKE BAG LADIES Wine in a bag? You’ve got to be kidding right? Er no. Squint and these Vernissage handbags could easily pass for the real thing.

Look carefully and there’s a nifty spout on the side to dispense either Chardonnay, rosé or a juicy red. More useful than designer versions… theexceptionalwinecompany.com

TWELVE

HAVING COCKTAILS FOR BREAKFAST Sound hardcore? Not if you’ve been to APM at Zinc. Living up to it’s name (Always Past Midnight) the new member’s club opens from 2.30am to 7am and serves luxxed-up breakfasts such as summer truffled scrambled eggs along with Bombay Sapphire-based Redemptions. Amen! alwayspastmidnight.co.uk

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13.

ROCKING UP AT WRAY’S HOUSE for reggae, rum and roots food – Jamaican style. The house party of the year takes in live riddims from Goldie, Ragga Twins and Tippa Irie, food by Andi Oliver, records from Dub Vendor plus drinks and hospitality courtesy of Wray & Nephew rum. 2nd August. wearebigchill.com

INDULGING IN COCKTAIL CONFECTIONERY

Imagine a cross between an American hard gum and the concentrated flavour of a French pate de fruit. Then add alcohol. At Smith & Sinclair the humble sweet gets serious. Suck on Whisky Sours, Gin & Tonics, and Mixed Berry Daiquiris. Mmm! smithandsinclair.co.uk 8 - The Cocktail Lovers

11.

SWEARING BY OUR SEASONINGS

Bitter Bastards is the Sid Vicious of cocktail seasonings, packing an uncompromising, kick-ass punch. Don’t go expecting subtleties, the single botanical flavours are, well, bitter bastards, put them to the test for yourself. Available in 25 varietals including Sour Cherry, Black Pepper and White Truffle. masterofmalts.com

14

WAKING UP AND SMELLING THE COFFEE Playing it straight by day, Soho Grind cranks up the caffeine at night. Call in for pre-party liveners such as the Grind Espresso Martini and Flat White Russians. sohogrind.com

16. GOING FOR CHOCOLATE OVERLOAD

If you’re going to indulge, do it right. At Bad Brownie they don’t mess about with namby-pamby confections, they go straight for the good stuff.

Check their wicked brownie selection including whisky and marmalade, and chilli, orange and triple sec. De-lish. badbrownie.co.uk

17 Practising our languages Forget that phrase book which you’ll never use, this goblet is all the help you need on holiday. You’re welcome. thegiftoasis.com

Drinking art

18

No wonder Artesian and Nightjar come in at numbers one and two respectively on the World’s 50 Best Bars list – have you seen the stunning cocktails on their new menus? We’re smitten. barnightjar.com (left), artesian-bar.co.uk (right).

IN-the know

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20

DRINKING FROM CARTONS

Don’t be fooled: with its mix of Grand Marnier, cognac, yuzu, lime, soda and bitters Gareth Evans’ and Kyle Wilkinson’s playful orange juice carton is definitely for the grown-ups. Available exclusively at The Blind Pig. theblind-pig.co.uk

TWENTY TWO...

PIMPING UP OUR ICE CUBES How so? Simple. We’ll place bits of fruit and flowers, or splashes of alcohol into the Giant Ice Cube, then leave the freezer to do the rest. Once it’s set, add to all manner of summery cocktails and punches. Fresh! lekue.co.uk

23 Firing

up the blender

We’re getting in the Pina Colada groove. We like the way they serve it at The Portobello Star: 25ml El Dorado 3yo Rum, 25ml Myers Rum, 8 cubes of fresh pineapple, a squirt of Coco Lopez and a large scoop of ice. Blend ingredients together and pour. Garnish with a cherry. portobellostarbar.co.uk. Blender, alessi.com

CLEANING UP OUR ACT

Adding to our art collection

This personalised metro-style map will do nicely, thanks. notonthehighstreet.com

21

Whether prepping for the barbie or tending bar, this nifty upcycled apron has you covered. Bonus points for retro recipes. huntedandstuffed.com

24

Spreading the cocktail love

We’re jamming but forget the sugary stuff, we’ve discovered Jumijam.

Great in the kitchen but equally tasty behind the bar, the all-natural range includes orange and cognac, peach and amaretto, pineapple and spiced rum as well as apricot and rosemary flavours. Use to zhush up your drinks. jumijam.weebly.com

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PLAYING TO THE CROWD

Decks? Check. Mic? Check. Sound booth? Check. Add a bottle of vodka, your personal mixologist and a hideaway room full of friends and you’ve got yourself The Studio at London Cocktail Club. Bookings advised. londoncocktailclub.co.uk The Cocktail Lovers - 9

IN THE HOTSEAT

Julie Reiner

THE FIRST LADY OF DRINKS

Of all the professions in all the world, why bartending and bar ownership?

I’m from Hawaii, hospitality is in our DNA. My first real job was as a cocktail waitress in a bar in Waikiki.

I was around 18 at the time and all the girls worked on the floor while the men worked behind the bar. It was pretty much the same when I got my first job in a cocktail bar in Florida. It was called The Pub and served beers and shots – I was intrigued by it all from the start.

When did you realise it was what you wanted to do?

After graduating from college I moved to San Francisco and I found The Red Room. That place completely changed my life. Here was a fierce and amazing team of females working behind the bar. Not only did they look amazing but they were making classic cocktails and using fresh, seasonal juices – no-one else was doing this at the time, the normal thing was mixes and juices from a gun.

I met so many fantastic people there, including my now wife and Michelle Connolly, one of my business partners.

Which facets of your personality does this industry appeal to and why?

I love the fact that it’s completely different every day.

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Nights that you think will be slow turn out to be busy and vice-versa – the unpredictability and excitement that comes from working in this business really appeals to me.

Plus I love being the facilitator of good times.

Describe the ethos behind all of your bars and how, in your opinion, you have managed to fulfil your own brief.

Like The Red Room I wanted to have a culinary approach to cocktails. No-one was really doing it in New York apart from Dale DeGroff at the Rainbow Room and Milk & Honey but Milk wasn’t particularly well known back then. I started doing seasonal menus at C3, the bar I was managing at the time and writers started to write about me and my approach to cocktails.

Before I knew it I was on the front page of the New York Times, so I built on that. I guess you could say my initial success was down to supply and demand.

Has being a female in the drinks industry helped or hindered you in your career?

Honestly, it’s helped more than hindered. I’ve always worked with a lot of women, from The Red Room to some of the partners in my bars. Although being a female in the

IN-terview

industry has never bothered me personally, it’s definitely been the topic of conversation because of being a minority.

Of your many accolades, both as a bartender and bar owner, which are you proudest of and why?

Definitely the Best Mentor award at the Spirited Awards at Tales of the Cocktails last year. It felt very special to be honoured for being a mentor to all the talented people who have gone on to open their bars and run consultancies – that was something very personal.

You’ve worked in the industry for 25 years, what’s been the biggest change you’ve seen: a) In the trade?

How quickly it has grown. Also bar tending is regarded as a respectable profession now. 10 years ago people used to ask, “yes but what do you really want to do?” when you told them you were a bartender – they don’t anymore. b) Consumer consciousness?

Consumers have become seriously educated from reading books and magazines – they know what they want which forces bartenders to be at the top of their game. These days it’s hard for bartenders to fake it.

What changes would you still like to see in the coming years?

It will be great when people stop asking me what it’s like being a woman behind the bar – that will mean it’s no longer a rarity. I’d also like to see an end to the ‘boys club’ style bars that refuse to hire women because they’re pretending it’s 1986 or something, that’s seriously got to change.

Women are believed to be nurturing and hospitable by their nature so why, in your opinion, are we not seeing more of them working behind the bar?

There are aspects of the bar industry that can be very aggressive, not so much in the US where women behind, managing and owning bars is more commonplace, but in the rest of the world, London in particular – it can be like playing a game of soccer. You’ve got to be a certain kind of woman to be able to take that on and play the game. It takes chutzpah.

What is the difference between a good bartender and a good bar owner and has this changed over the years?

That’s what my So you want to open your own bar? talk at Tales of the Cocktail this year was about – it was part of a seminar where I was among the bar luminaries reading an imaginary letter to a young bartender. So many people think that making great cocktails is all it takes to own a bar but that’s only 10% of the big picture. I was saying put down your bar spoon and take a business course, do you know what P&L is? Have you ever managed the floor of a busy bar? A lot of people fail because they don’t know these basic things. The seminar was a reality check.

What has been your biggest mistake during your years in the business and more importantly, what did you learn from it?

Some of the business partnerships I’ve entered into. It’s easy to get taken advantage of when you’re the talent and you’re dealing with the people with the money.

There were certain things I didn’t look into as much as I should, which is why I did the So you want to open your own bar? talk.

Knowing what you know now and having put in all the hard work over the years, would you prefer to be starting out now or then?

Definitely then, there’s so much competition now. My timing was great, I was the first person to do lots of things like the craft cocktails and the training of particular people; people can come along and do it after, or do it better but I did it first and no-one can take that away from me.

Which bars and bartenders should we be looking out for?

There are so many to watch out for but off the top of my head I’ll say Thomas Waugh who worked with me at Clover Club and was nominated for Best New Bartender at Tales of the Cocktail this year. Also Sean Kenyon from Denver, another nominee for Best New Bartender at Tales.

Caitlin Laman from Trick Dog in San Francisco who has just won Speed Rack US is also phenomenal. As for bars, I love the new bar at the NoMad in New York which just won Best American Restaurant Bar, again at Tales.

They’ve spent $6million or something crazy on it, it’s a total game changer.

What are your big plans for the next 12 months?

I’ve just finished writing my book Craft Cocktail Party about craft cocktails to make at home which will be published next spring – that’s definitely the big thing. Other than that, I’ll be travelling to Scotland and London judging the World Class Global Finals this summer, then on to Hawaii for the Food & Wine Festival in September which I do every year.

There’s also my consultancy work on the new Park Hyatt in New York and through the holidays I’ll be focusing on Clover Club, just being present in the bar. That will keep me busy!

Follow Julie on Twitter.com@mixtressnyc

Clover Club, 210 Smith Street, Brooklyn, NY 11201. cloverclubny.com Flat Iron Lounge, 37 West 19th Street, (between 5th and 6th Avenue), Flat Iron District, Manhattan. flatironlounge.com

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IN-spire

Elizaveta Evdokimova, Delicatessen, Moscow Years behind the stick: three and a half What was it about the profession that appealed to you?

I actually started my career as a waitress and after a year I decided that I wanted to create something by myself and became a barista. After a few years with coffee I chose alcohol as my next Everest. But only now I understand the main reason why I need to be a bartender: because of the people in our industry. We are all one big family that will be with me forever.

What do you most enjoy about being behind the bar?

For me it’s the mixing process and guests’ reaction to my creations. If he or she enjoys my drinks then I’m happy.

Are there times when you are reminded that you are a female bartender rather than simply a bartender?

Well it happens with me when my colleagues discuss hot chicks behind the bar!

How do you describe your bartending style?

Old-fashioned with a dash of kitchen and Russian soul.

Do you think female bartenders bring specific qualities to the bar?

We bring beauty to the bar and actually I suppose we are less stressed out. And sometimes as women we bring a certain element of precision.

What’s the best thing about being a female behind the bar?

The best thing is my weakness – thank God I have my guys who don’t allow me to lift heavy things! And of course, we get a lot of attention from men.

And the worst?

Sometimes we need to work harder than men just to prove that we warrant being there.

Do you think female bartenders are perceived differently in different countries?

I don’t think so, girls are girls everywhere – I’ve met a lot of female bartenders and almost all of them have strong personalities and really good taste.

What do you think you would have been doing if you hadn’t got into bar tending?

I would definitely be a chef. Actually, I’m thinking of having a try at the kitchen right now – it’s so exciting and curious. I adore cooking for people.

Do you have any tips for females thinking about entering the profession?

Being a bartender is not just about being a beautiful woman behind the bar. It’s about being a good professional. So if you’re ready to work hard and if you want to be part of a huge, crazy family then do it – it’s wonderful!

What was it about the profession that appealed to you?

I am a night and people person. Plus I love the direct feedback from my guests.

What do you most enjoy about being behind the bar?

Creating special moments for other people. Be it with amazing service, the perfect drink or just by lending them an ear.

Katrin Reitz, former owner at La Dee Da Bar, Bonn Years behind the stick: six

Are there times when you are reminded that you are a female bartender rather than simply a bartender?

I am reminded every time I’m behind the bar and I am proud of it! Like in any job, I think the differences between males and females should be embraced. Females can be more witty and honest behind the bar, which means we are very good problem solvers. Also, I feel that female, even more than male bartenders, can recommend the perfect cocktail for a person; firstly, because our senses are better, and secondly because we are very good at reading peoples’ innermost desires.

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IN-spire

How do you describe your bartending style?

I try every time to find the perfect, subjective cocktail for every guest. Doing so, I create a lot of my cocktails with guests at the bar and involve them in the creation process.

I am not as technically advanced as other bartenders and flair tending is not my style at all, but I am a freak about getting the perfect dilution for every drink.

What’s the best thing about being a female behind the bar?

I can use all my words between 5pm and 2am and be quiet and chilled the rest of the day.

And the worst?

Bartending is a tough, physical job, where citrus acid ruins my hands and bending for speed rack bottles is bad for my back.

Do you think female bartenders are perceived differently in different countries?

I absolutely agree with that. In Europe there are a lot less female bartenders than in the USA, hence, guests are not so used to seeing girls behind the bar and have a stronger

Metinee Kongsilev (aka May/ Mayface), White Lyan, London Years behind the stick: eight What was it about the profession that appealed to you?

Being a professional bartender drew something from within me. It allowed me to use my creativity and sparked a passion that I never had before, and it also gave me direction. The other thing is the support and love that everyone has for one another, it has given me a sense of belonging and I’m proud to be a part of such a great community. It’s something that I had never experienced before.

What do you most enjoy about being behind the bar?

There is something really empowering and exciting about making and talking about drinks to customers and industry peers. Also, the creation of something potentially unique that you came up with yourself, is the added bonus.

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reaction towards them: either by hitting on them or not taking them seriously. In the USA female bartenders are a lot more respected. Having said that, I am working every day on changing German bar guests’ perceptions!

What do you think you would have been doing if you hadn’t got into bar tending?

I would have become a journalist. In fact, I am just working on combining the two by writing my blog: ashakearoundtheusa.de Do you have any tips for females thinking about entering the profession?

More than in any other job, you have to believe in yourself behind the bar. Play out your female strength and stay true to your own personality. The rest will come by itself if you have passion for alcoholic beverages. Plus do some yoga – your back will love you for it.

Are there times when you are reminded that you are a female bartender rather than simply a bartender?

I guess I used to when I did cocktail competitions. The majority of the time I ended up being the only female and when it was my turn to present, the focus would be on me for this reason. I used to feel a lot of pressure because of it, and would think that I was being judged by my male peers. But then Stuart McCluskey, my mentor at the time, would tell me, “everyone is here to support you, not knock you down”. Those words are why I feel as though I’ve succeeded so much over these years.

How do you describe your bartending style?

I try to keep things simple and approachable. It’s so important to taste every component of the drink.

Even at White Lyan, where the style of drinks is more ‘contemporary’, they’re all very simple drinks, but just produced through a different thought process.

Do you think female bartenders bring specific qualities to the bar?

I don’t think that you bring specific qualities to a bar because of your sex. These qualities are down to the individual’s skills, presence and flair.

What’s the best thing about being a female behind the bar?

Being presumed by customers and peers that you know nothing because you’re a female, then proving them wrong when they try to challenge you.

And the worst?

Being presumed in the first place.

IN-spire

Sian Ferguson, Heads and Tales, Edinburgh Years behind the stick: eight years, eight months What was it about the profession that appealed to you?

Every day is different. I get to combine my two loves, alcohol and history, to learn a lot about brands and drinks. The range of people I get to meet on a daily basis cannot be rivalled by any other job I can think of. Also, the hospitality community, especially what I’ve found of the cocktail scene, is an amazing one. No matter where I go, someone knows someone that I know.

What do you most enjoy about being behind the bar?

The fun we have – between ourselves, with customers, and being able to make up banging drinks for people and seeing that first wee smile after their first sip.

Are there times when you are reminded that you are a female bartender rather than simply a bartender?

Yes. Shaking drinks (especially double shaking) – it’s all about the boobs with some people! Also doing things like carrying up stock and taking out bins – it’s been commented on a few times that it’s a ‘boy’s job’.

How do you describe your bartending style?

Simple and effective.

Do you think female bartenders bring specific qualities to the bar?

It may be slightly stereotypical but generally cleanliness.

I’ve worked with some messy ladies, but generally I find women to be less scatty behind the bar. Also I find the girls I’ve worked with don’t get as stressed when the bar is busy as some of the guys. However, I do find girls can be a bit more apprehensive when it comes to cutting people off or if something is kicking off in the bar, they’re more likely to take a step back.

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What’s the best thing about being a female behind the bar?

Some of the friendly banter and comments I can get away with in comparison to the guys!

And the worst?

Whenever someone says to me “you can’t be the manager you’re a girl”, or when you’re just not in the mood for lewd comments and someone says something inappropriate.

Do you think female bartenders are perceived differently in different countries?

I’ve only ever been in bars within Europe and the US but from what I’ve seen and from what I see of worldwide competitions, females aren’t perceived differently from males. The only thing I would say is that I could probably name more US lady tenders than anywhere else and I think that’s due to Speed Rack in the States (see p. 30) and all the publicity it creates.

What do you think you would have been doing if you hadn’t got into bar tending?

I did a degree in Marketing and Communication but working in an office during my placement just wasn’t for me. I did work at a football club though and I loved the event side of things so maybe event management or something like that.

Do you have any tips for females thinking about entering the profession?

Do it.

Do it now.

Do it quicker!

We need more ace ladies in this industry and the community is really fab. You may sometimes have to have thick skin but if you can give as good as you get and if you love people, you really cannot beat it.

IN-spire

Ivy Mix, Clover Club, New York Years behind the stick: 10 What was it about the profession that appealed to you?

When I first started bartending it was only beers, shots and highballs and what I really loved about it was the community and social aspects of it. I got to go to work and hang out with my friends who were either regulars, became regulars or were the people who I worked with.

Then when I discovered cocktail bartending, I realised that I could combine my art background with my love of bartending (I double majored in Philosophy and Fine Art at university).

What do you most enjoy about being behind the bar?

The bartender is essentially the conductor of the night – change the music or the lights, change the attitude, change whatever you want and you can change an evening. On top of that I get to be creative, as I said before. But mostly, I get to meet a ton of people every night and honestly, I’ve met my best friends in the world that way. It’s unique.

Are there times when you are reminded that you are a female bartender rather than simply a bartender?

I suppose so... but I try not to get too caught up in it. I guess I’m reminded of it the most when I get a surprised look or comment like, “wow sweetie! This is a lot of work for a lady like you!” I’m always taken aback then.

How do you describe your bartending style?

Well, I think there are three parts to this equation, all as important as each other. With my clientele my style is to talk and smile and be open and curious, I like to make people feel at home. Then, how I make my cocktails – I generally start with the base spirit and work from there, I get inspired by taking tasting notes and working on building upon something – I like to draw out that profile, or similarly, I like to take two separate things and try to figure out the bridge that brings them together. Physically behind a bar I like to be as efficient as possible. I frequently think of rhythm to try to keep my pace in check – I used to train horses and I like to put this pacing into my work.

I crave it. It’s not always super evident, but I think it’s there.

What’s the best thing about being a female behind the bar?

Ha! I don’t know... the best? I think it’s the same being male or female – we get to be the curators of the evening.

That’s the greatest.

And the worst?

I suppose when I get someone who doesn’t think I know how to make a drink. Like a look that says, “I really don’t want anything girly” or “do you even know about whisky?” That drives me crazy.

Do you think female bartenders are perceived differently in different countries?

You know, that’s a good question. I’ve travelled quite a bit and I think it varies in much the same way as it varies in the US. Are you a cocktail bartender? Trying to be a fivestar/at-the-top-of-the-game lady? I think it’s harder for women in any category when this is the case.

What do you think you would have been doing if you hadn’t got into bar tending?

I’d most likely be in interior design/furniture making or a philosophy of aesthetics professor. That or I wouldn’t have ever stopped horseback riding and I would still be in Vermont doing that.

Do you have any tips for females thinking about entering the profession?

Just push through. And take the opportunities that come to you. Take them aggressively but also be aware that being selective is very important. We live in the age of social media and YouTube, so what you do today can be remembered tomorrow or in 12 years. BE CAREFUL and be aware that who you choose to work with reflects upon you. Additionally, don’t be catty – don’t fall into that stereotype. Be gracious and kind.

Do you think female bartenders bring specific qualities to the bar?

Women, whether we want children or not – have that motherly gene in them. I see it and I love it and sometimes The Cocktail Lovers - 17

IN-spire

human being as we all are, but yes sometimes. You get guys who don’t let you carry bins, this makes me laugh.

Also, when the bar is empty and a guy comes and wants recommendations, even if I’m the first to say “hello” he’ll ask my male colleague. It seems sometimes we are just here to be pretty.

How do you describe your bartending style?

Creative, unique, with a dash of craziness.

Do you think female bartenders bring specific qualities to the bar?

I believe every single person is unique and brings something different to the job, but when we have ladies and gents in the same team you get the perfect balance.

What’s the best thing about being a female behind the bar?

I don’t know about being female behind the bar, but about being behind the bar: people.

Clotilde Lataille, Hawksmoor Spitalfields, London Years behind the stick: Three and a half What was it about the profession that appealed to you?

Creating – playing with flavours, aromas and colours. I’m an artist so the bar is like my second studio.

What do you most enjoy about being behind the bar?

Creating something that makes my guests happy, whatever it is. I enjoy surprising people, getting them to try something different. Like art, it is a different way of sharing with others, it’s a way of communicating in my own specific way. When you have a customer who comes to thank you because you made their night, that is priceless.

Are there times when you are reminded that you are a female bartender rather than simply a bartender?

I don’t see myself as a female bartender but as a unique

18 - The Cocktail Lovers

And the worst?

People.

Do you think female bartenders are perceived differently in different countries?

I don’t have enough experience around the world to have noticed. Men and women are different and get treated differently in the world and working world, it’s a reality.

If you are good, you work hard and are passionate, it shouldn’t make a difference.

What do you think you would have been doing if you hadn’t got into bar tending?

Being a cow girl.

IN-spire

Tess Posthumus, Door 74, Amsterdam Years behind the stick: Four and a half Do you think female bartenders bring specific qualities to the bar?

It would probably be our female multi-tasking skills.

Also, women tend to have the great ability of calming angry men down before it gets out of control.

What was it about the profession that appealed to you?

As a bartender you’re in contact with a lot of different people and your job is to make their night special. Also you are being creative, able to make specific cocktails to suit different peoples’ tastes or to match different courses.

A chef gets to create, but because most of the time they are in the kitchen, they don’t get to see the reactions of their guests. As a bartender, you can create on an individual level, and you get to see their reactions.

What do you most enjoy about being behind the bar?

The positive energy I receive back from my guests. I love to make their night as good as possible and when I see that they are happy, I am happy.

Are there times when you are reminded that you are a female bartender rather than simply a bartender?

There are still just a few lady bartenders in the Netherlands and I think for some guests it’s refreshing to see a female bartender behind the bar. Sometimes I get reminded of this; I recently had an older couple sitting at my bar and I overheard them talking about girls behind the bar. The man thought it was too hard a job for a girl and the woman disagreed with him. I got involved in the conversation and told the couple that it wasn’t a hard profession as long as you have passion for what you’re doing. Female bartenders can do just as much as male bartenders and I almost got a bit too feminist on them. Not even five minutes later though, I was preparing a drink for the same couple and couldn’t get a new bottle open. I needed to ask my male colleague for help!

What’s the best thing about being a female behind the bar?

A real advantage of being a female bartender is when I’m competing in a cocktail competition. Normally there are only one or two other women competing and this immediately makes us more memorable. The same happens when I’m behind the bar, the guests remember me more easily.

And the worst?

A big whisky brand was hosting a trip to the distillery for a couple of Dutch bartenders. The Brand Ambassador told me that I wasn’t invited because I was a female bartender and the company wanted to focus on the manliness of the brand. Fortunately this is a rarity and there are also times when I get a job because I’m a woman.

Do you think female bartenders are perceived differently in different countries?

Yes. Unfortunately there are still a lot of countries worldwide where women and men aren’t equally treated.

It would be naive to think that this would be different in the drinks profession. I know a couple of places, even in Amsterdam, where they don’t allow women as bartenders because they still believe it’s a male profession.

If you hadn’t got into bar tending, what do you think you’d be doing?

I’ve finished my bachelors degree in Media Studies and my masters in Sociology. I love every aspect of the hospitality industry so I’d be writing a book on it from a sociological perspective, or I would be working very hard to establish my own empire of restaurants, bars and clubs.

Do you have any tips for females thinking about entering the profession?

Just do it. Give the profession a try and I’m sure you’ll love it. And if you ever need any advice, don’t hesitate to contact me through tessposthumus.com

How do you describe your bartending style?

Door 74 is the bar where I’ve learned bartending on a proper level. The Door is a speakeasy concept bar so my style is classic with a twist.

The Cocktail Lovers - 19

IN-spire

Rebekkah Dooley

A few of my favourite things London born and raised Rebekkah Dooley started flyering for bars aged 15. Twelve years later she is Events, Marketing and PR Manager for Leelex with a portfolio including five venues and Portobello Road Gin. With experience at Milk & Honey and Callooh Callay under her belt, she was part of the team that won the ‘World’s Best Cocktail Menu’ award at Tales of the Cocktail 2012. Rebekkah has recently presented at Imbibe Live 2014 and currently specialises in hospitality marketing, menu design and social media management.

Style icon

Film

James Dean for being so classically and unforgettably beautiful.

Rebel Without a Cause, I once watched it three times in one sitting, and twice in another.

Food

Artist

Tea and biscuits, steak and chips, Hawksmoor sticky toffee pudding, home-made mac ‘n’ cheese, Domino’s pizza, bacon sandwiches with ketchup, and avocados. I love avocados.

Roald Dahl for pure escapism, Jon Ronson for the way he puts words together and Roddy Doyle for the stories he tells.

22 - The Cocktail Lovers

IN-spire

View

Designer

Views of London. I was born here and my parents before me, so I’d feel a traitor to say anywhere else. Most recently the views of the city from City Social, or from the lift at Duck & Waffle.

Adbusters. They’re a design collective that create satirical social commentary pieces. The menus I’ve designed have been copies of well-known products (the Oyster card, the Pantone book, etc) and that’s something I started doing because of Adbusters. I like clever, funny design that makes you think, especially in advertising. If you can sell something in a way that engages and entertains then you’re on to a winner.

Journey Taxi rides in New York feel fancy to me, and the Eurostar from London to Paris feels like a luxury. Driving through America from state to state for the vast expanses of land.

Coming home to London always feels good, no matter how good the holiday. Travelling to New York on my own last year was quite a journey.

Retreat Beer and a cigarette, phone switched off, candle lit bath.

Anywhere can be a retreat.

Historical figure

Inspiring quote

Arsene Wenger, manager at Arsenal Football Club.

He’s a historical figure in the making. When I go to the Arsenal games at the Emirates Stadium I spend most of the game watching him. The fans sing the “Arsene give us a wave”, chant and one time he waved at the North Bank where we sit and I got way too excited. My fascination with him is probably a bit weird. There’s a very funny YouTube video of Ray Parlour telling Wenger stories – you should definitely watch it.

Miley Cyrus: “It’s our party we can do what we want”.

Building

Planes. I love to fly. And my iPhone. I act like I need to be on it for work but… I’m just addicted.

The Emirates stadium – home of Arsenal FC, it takes my breath away every time.

Musician Pretentiously: Bob Dylan.

Shop IKEA. You can get a Full English breakfast for 99p. I don’t really do the girly shopping thing, I don’t like the way that the fashion and cosmetic industries rely on making women feel inept. That and I also tend to spend all my money on food and alcohol.

Technology

Person Can I say my cat?

The

Beatles,

The

Rolling

Honestly: Miley Cyrus and Taylor Swift.

Stones,

Possession Things that relate to memories. Old tickets, handwritten notes, photos, birthday cards. I don’t own anything of real monetary value.

The Cocktail Lovers - 23

IN-spire

IN-spire

EMIL SETH ARENG GETS FRESH WITH AN AGE-OLD TRADITION AT REX BAR & GRILL IN NORTH SWEDEN Foraging is intrinsic to our culture in Sweden, it’s something every child grows up doing. And as far as I’m aware, it’s something everyone seems to enjoy. I certainly did. For me it started when I was about three years old.

My dad was a forester so he spent all of his time in the woods and for a number of years, I did too.

These days I still go foraging for ingredients but now I use them in cocktails at my bar. The summer here works well for this. The season is insanely short (about three months), very bright (it never gets dark) and usually pretty warm, so it’s ideal for picking up a bucket and knife and trampling in the woods.

To be honest, foraging for me isn’t just about finding ingredients, it’s a moment of clarity. How often do you get a chance to shut off from the rest of the world? Here everything is totally quiet, stress gets left behind and there’s no thinking about tomorrow – there’s nothing in the world except you and nature – it’s incredibly liberating.

Foraging is also about time. You can’t rush the process or underestimate the time it takes to seek out just the right berries, mushrooms, lichens, herbs and trees.

And there’s another thing; let’s not forget luck – it takes lots of luck…

Finding cloudberries and arctic raspberries in Sweden isn’t easy, which makes it even more rewarding when you

do track them down. Every family in the northern region has their own particular spot where they go to look for these precious berries and it’s a closely guarded secret.

You never tell anyone where your spot is – even fathers don’t share it with their sons. When my father leaves the earth he will tell me about his spot, and I will tell it to my son, and so it goes on, from generation to generation.

Foraging is something you can do almost all over the world and there is no right or wrong way to do it. A few tips worth bearing in mind are to respect nature, don’t go for weird looking mushrooms – some of the most common things like dandelions and nettles can be very f lavourful. Other than that, my advice is to always carry a knife, a good reference book about foraging, and leave all the stresses of everyday life behind.

My favourite things to forage during the summer/ autumn are: Cloudberries: When I find them I use these in infusions and syrups.

Birch for infusions and birch sap: For adding smoke to my cocktails.

Wild strawberries: I’ll freeze them first and then infuse when needed.

Different types of lichen: Which I use to filtrate a cocktail or as a garnish.

Spruce shots: For hardcore infusions.

Blueberries: I carry these to eat, not to use in a cocktail.

Ever!

Want to know more? Add ‘Wild Food: A Complete Guide for Foragers’ by Roger Phillips to your basket at amazon.com and check wildfoodschool.co.uk and wild-food.net for details and foraging courses.

Illustration opposite: pezandpencil.com

Two foraged cocktails Foresters Flip

Von Rosen

50ml cognac infused with cloudberries

40ml gin infused with arctic raspberries

20ml smoked birch syrup

10ml Swedish Punsch infused with spruce

2 dashes Angostura® aromatic bitters

30ml lemon juice

1 whole egg flavoured with sorrel

15ml simple syrup

Method: Dry shake all ingredients to emulsify egg, then shake again over ice. Fine strain into a wine goblet. Garnish with freshly grated nutmeg.

20ml egg white Method: Dry shake all ingredients to emulsify egg, then shake again over ice. Fine strain into a wine goblet.

rexbar.com

The Cocktail Lovers - 27

IN-the spotlight

GIRLS ALLOWED

Speed Rack, Pink Your Drink, Les Femmes du Bar, the Bloom Gin Ladies Competition – four competitions with one thing in common – they’re all aimed at females bartenders

F

emale-only cocktail competitions, good or bad thing? Discuss. Before you answer, consider this: until a few years ago we wouldn’t have been having this conversation – they didn’t exist.

That’s not to say women couldn’t or indeed didn’t, enter competitions. They did, but not in numbers worth speaking about. And while you’d always find one, two at a push, who were prepared to battle it out with the guys it was, still is to a certain extent, an exception rather than anywhere near representative of the number of bad-ass lady tenders out there.

Then along came Speed Rack. With its party-like vibe and female-only entry requirement the makingcocktails-against-the-clock contest brought with it an energy, camaraderie and playfulness that set it apart from the rest.

Mind you, despite the fun and tag lines about boobs aka ‘the racks’, the rationale behind it was extremely serious. “The idea came after I’d been asked to take part in a series of videos called ‘Shaker Faces’ which were doing the rounds at the time”, explains Ivy Mix one of the most respected names in the business (p. 17). “I was one of the only females involved which got me thinking: wouldn’t it be good to do something for the girls?” One of the many people she mentioned the idea to was fellow bartender Lynnette Morerro. “Lynnette loved the idea.

We worked on a format, decided to incorporate a breast cancer charity, then got on the phone to our friends in the drinks industry to raise the money to do it.”

That was in 2010 in New York. Four years later and the Speed Rack train stops off in eight cities in the US including Miami, Chicago, San Francisco and New York and, from last year, London. To date, over 300 women have taken part and the initiative has raised over $245,000 in the US for breast cancer charities. That’s pretty hardcore stuff. “At first people thought Speed Rack was anti-men but it’s not,” says Lynnette vehemently. “It’s about elevating and celebrating great female bar tending

30 - The Cocktail Lovers

talent. It gives women the platform to step on and show the world how amazing they are and how good they are at their jobs.”

Ylva Binder, owner of Rhuby rhubarb liqueur launched Pink Your Drink a year later. Like Speed Rack, it raises money for and awareness of breast cancer whilst putting female bartenders firmly in the driving seat. ‘I simply feel there is great female talent – while females normally don’t push major campaigns about themselves or enter competitions as frequently as men. I often state their male counterparts are better at advertising themselves, more competitive, while women simply are great at their work and keep perfecting it, without letting anybody else know about it.”

But does that warrant competitions purely for women?

“There’s definitely a time and a place for femaleonly competitions – I think you need to have a fullyfunctioning reason though,” says Ash Bovey from awardwinning bar Milk Thistle in Bristol. Having entered both mixed and ladies-only comps, she has a balanced view on the subject. “There are plenty of amazing ladies working their magic behind the stick these days, but I don’t think it’s truly reason enough to have a female-only comp in the name of ‘girl power’. If the gents held a ‘men-only’ competition for the hell of it, I’m sure plenty of people would have something to say about it. I believe that if the competition has a valid, relative, charitable reasoning for being gender-specific then that’s entirely reasonable.”

Susie Wong from Manchester, another seasoned competition enterer disagrees. “I definitely prefer general competitions because its an equal thing. Everyone who has the same passion should be able to share it at the same time. There are female and male doctors, bankers, chefs, teachers, accountants – what’s the difference?”

Not much for those with confidence and perhaps but for newbies, well, you can see why they might not have the cahonas to take on the guys. “We had our first Les Femmes du Bar competition during London Cocktail

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IN-focus

Drink to your health The first in a new series by Claire Smith and Georgia van Tiel

Very rarely do the words ‘cocktails’ and ‘healthy’ appear together, unless of course you’re asking your bartender for a ‘healthy pour’. The word ‘healthy’ brings to mind outdoorsy activities, an abundance of fruit and vegetables and possibly some lunges. On the other hand, the word ‘cocktail’ generally suggests nocturnal libations that may contain one of your ‘five a day’ if you consider agave as a vegetable or beer as a food group. If you’re reading this feeling that the world of health and wellness is anathema to you because you’re an ardent Cocktail Lover, you’re not alone.

So, hello from Drink, Eat, Live! We’ve created a programme devoted to people just like YOU. People who love to drink, enjoy food and fundamentally, live life to its fullest and hopefully lengthiest. This is not a diet club (we love lasagne too much) and equally we’re not going to ask you to make any radical life changes. We’ll be here every quarter with top tips and easy fixes in order to make health and wellness accessible and relevant to you, the Lover of Cocktails. So, if you’ve got a hangover and want to know why reaching for that morning OJ is a mistake, or want to find out more about simple syrup alternatives, or whether there is gluten lurking in your vodka, we’re your go-to gals.

To kick off, here are our top five suggestions for easy ways to start feeling a little healthier NOW! We’ll see you next quarter, when we hope you’ll be feeling even more fabulous.

Five Rules to Drink, Eat and Live by: 1. Your mum was right; breakfast IS the most important meal of the day. Regardless of when you get out of bed, eat within one hour of waking up. After this, your metabolism slows and the next meal you have will be stored by the body rather than being used for an energy source. Who knew an egg muffin could prevent a muffin top! (McMuffin does not apply.)

2. In a world where popping pills has become the norm, here at Drink, Eat, Live we recommend food as your daily medicine but we do also advocate including a good quality probiotic in your diet. Try to find one that is plant based, vegan, organic and aimed at healthy digestion.

3. Sorry honey, sugar ain’t your friend. Today’s breakfast foods have become a minefield for hidden sugars and often what you think is healthy can be loaded with added and natural sugars. Try to either make your own cereal using organic oats, nuts, seeds, chia and protein powder, or look for cereals that have much of the above and contain less than 4g per serving of sugar.

4. Kick off your morning (or whenever you awake) with a glass of fresh lemon juice and warm water. Imagine it as Lemon Drop without the sugar or the vodka. Feel smug as your liver gets a kick start and gets to work and you can go back to bed for a little rest.

5. Eye your morning OJ with suspicion. A glass will deplete your immune system for 48 hours, contains almost as much sugar as a can of Red Bull and puts a hefty stress on your system as 100% fruit sugars (fructose) are metabolised via your liver. Try cutting your daily glass with 50% water, or drink sparingly (particularly if you’re starting to feel under the weather).

About Drink, Eat, Live: The Drink, Eat, Live programme is underpinned by a desire to create awareness and self-awareness through education. After all, knowledge is power, and this empowerment is further fortified with a combination of nutritional, psychological and lifestyle strategies.

The Drink, Eat, Live programme is not based on a ‘feast or famine’ mentality. We don’t endorse binge or heavy drinking and we recognise that abstinence is often unfeasible for those whose careers depend on the promotion or frequent use of alcohol.

About Claire and Georgia Claire Smith is Head of Spirit Creation at Belvedere Vodka and has been working with alcohol in its various forms for over 15 years. Committed to discovering new ways to drink ‘better’, Claire has developed a range of sugar-free and 100% fresh fruit flavoured vodkas for Belvedere, as well as pioneered the Drink, Eat, Live approach towards responsible drinking ‘in action’.

Georgia van Tiel has worked in the health and fitness industry for over 10 years. Her company, FIX works to promote health and wellness in kids, youth and adults.

FIX designs, implements and executes fitness, nutrition and wellness programmes to individuals, community groups, schools, local communities and councils. Together with Claire, FIX has worked to bridge the gap between the challenging lifestyle of bartenders and hospitality/industry folk and those wishing to live a clean and healthy life.

Together Georgia and Claire believe there is a way to work in the industry and/or enjoy your drinks whilst also being the best you can be in terms of health and wellness.

Our dietary advice is underwritten by: Janine Fahri, a leading and highly accredited nutrition and lifestyle expert with BSc (Hons) degrees in both Nutritional Therapy and Psychology. She is Founder of NutriLife Clinic in Marylebone. Janine has worked to set national industry standards and she is frequently quoted in the media as an authority in her field.

Get in touch!

Claire & Georgia x csmith@lvmh.com @belvedereclaire georgiavantiel@gmail.com fix.com nutrillifeclinic.com

The Cocktail Lovers - 35

IN-focus

full bodied

says Mr G

Skinny latte? Zero fat Greek yogurt? Low-calorie bolognese?

Yum, yum, ain’t life grand?

There’s nothing wrong with a healthy diet. Actually it’s a very good idea and one that I embrace and advocate.

I aim for my five portions of fruit and vegetables every day, not always successfully, but I aim for them.

I try to drink plenty of water instead of consuming countless coffees. And a big fat chocolate dessert is something that I can happily leave alone. Moreover, I do actually run several days a week and I’m no stranger to the gym.

Occasionally though I like to indulge. It’s those cheats and shortcuts that upset me. If you’re going to have that latte, have that latte. Don’t just go for the thin, weedy, watery, apologetic, I-won’t-hurt-you, latte. And the same goes for cocktails.

When I’m at home, as I said, I go for a generally healthy kind of diet, which I complement with an occasionally indulgent meal. And if I want a cocktail (it has been known) I have a cocktail. Moreover, when I’m out and about, well, I’m really out and about. Life? Live it large. When I order a cocktail I want it big. I’m not talking size of glass, I’m talking big on everything that truly makes a great cocktail sublime and one of life’s most satisfying experiences. Full of flavour from big spirits, big liqueurs, big syrups, big everything.

I want taste, experience and effect. And if that means a few big calories, then so, be, it. Tomorrow I’ll go light on the pasta or do an extra thousand metres on my morning run.

Illustration by nick schon

A good lifestyle, like a good cocktail, is about balance.

Knowing when to indulge and when to hold back, not about flimsy half-way measures. A cocktail with a little less sugar, a little less fat and a little less whatever? The thought just makes me feel sad. And when was a cocktail supposed to make you feel sad?

Whether it’s a Martini, sour, highball, flip, punch, shot, toddy or something with a bit of Champagne loveliness I want the real McCoy. I want richness, cream, fruit, sugar, salt, fat-wash, syrup, foam, liqueurs, more syrups, more liqueurs and more of everything in general. I want it all.

And I want it now. Not in the same glass, at the same time, obviously, but I want it.

What I don’t want is a health warning and small print about calories and fat content. When I’m in a bar the only print I need is the menu. And the only warning I’ll listen to is the voice of that little angel that sits on my shoulder and advises me against one last night cap. Cocktails? Thank you, I’ll go large or I’ll go home.

skinny says Ms S Er, hello! I’m a woman, I’m obsessed with diets. Whether I actually adhere to the call of the cal is by-the-by, but trust me, I do know the difference between an apple and a cream cake.

The same can be said about the contents of my glass.

I’m very much aware that one all-singing, all-dancing cocktail, although very pretty to look at and absolutely scrummy to taste, can be the equivalent of a big slab of chocolate in terms of sugar and calorie content. And while I’m unlikely to munch my way through more than one choccy bar in a sitting (well, not in company at any rate), I can indulge in three, sometimes more, cocktails of an evening no problem. Bam! That’s around 600+ calories even before the munchies have set in.

That’s not to say I’m planning to go cold turkey on the cocktail front any time soon – no sir. However, I do want to be more responsible about my drinking. And anything I can do to make the cocktails I succumb to ‘better’ for me is very much appreciated, both by my waistline and my overall health.

Taking a leaf out of the Drink, Eat, Live book (p. 35) is one way to have your cocktails and drink them as it were. Choosing from the ‘Skinny’ section of the drinks menu is another. Here’s where bar chains come into their own. Groups like Be At One and Dirty Martini make a feature of the dedicated low-cal cocktails on their lists.

Some, like Dirty Martini and Drake & Morgan, go one step further by giving an approximate calorie count for their slimline drinks. Naff? Possibly. Appealing to guilty girlies? Definitely. But who cares? When you’re ‘fessing up to your daily consumption on your MyFitnessPal app (myfitnesspal.com), it helps to know what you’re dealing with.

But it’s not just about the calories. It’s also about making healthier choices. I, for one am keeping a beady eye on the amount of sugar creeping into my drinks. Syrups and liqueurs don’t pretend to be anything other than what they are, it’s those diet sodas and slimline tonics that mess with your mind. What they lack in calories they make up for in artificial sweeteners which are just as bad for your body as the real deal. Plus, and here’s the rub, people far cleverer than me claim that alcohol mixed with diet soda is reputed to get you drunker faster. Now that may sound appealing if you’re an irresponsible teen, but when you’re a grown-up, it ain’t particularly clever.

Yes, I agree with Mr G that life’s too short to obsess about calories, but it can last a little longer if you care about your health. #justsayin’

The Cocktail Lovers - 37

IN-dulge

Glass Acts

From cocktails al fresco to the finest crystal to impress your guests, here’s our pick of ten top cocktail glasses for Martini o’clock. Chin, chin!

FOR A SHOT OF COLOUR:

FOR COOL CUSTOMERS:

How fabulous are these jewel-coloured glasses? Match them to your brightest guests.

Set of six cut crystal Birds of Paradise Cocktail glasses, £215, Gurasu at LuxDeco, luxdeco.com

Not only are they virtually indestructible, these stainless steel vessels keep your Martinis cooler for longer – result!

Set of two stainless steel Martini glasses, $19.95, homewetbar.com

FOR MAKING A STATEMENT: One part quirky, two parts elegant, this glass isn’t a gimmick, the outer case also doubles up as a chiller for your drink.

Set of two Inside Out Martini glasses, £38, junodesignshop.com

FOR HIGH ROLLERS: One day…

Mouth-blown, hand-cut crystal Game Martini glass, £115 each, asprey.com

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FOR SWEDISH STYLE: Affordable and desirable here’s a set of glasses that will add zing to your cabinet.

Set of four hand-blown Martini glasses set, £27, Sagaform. stylishliving.co.uk

IN-dulge FOR TRANSITIONING FROM BAR TO DINNER TABLE: Save time washing separate Martini and wine glasses with this natty design that cleverly combines both.

Vino-tini, $17.99 asobubottle.com

FOR COCKTAILS ON THE GO: Picnics, barbies, open-air concerts, festivals – no need for styrofoam beakers, pack these instead.

Set of 10 Pink Plastic Martini glasses, £5.99, partypieces.co.uk

FOR SHOWSTOPPING CENTREPIECES: This bad boy holds a whopping 5.6 litres so either reserve it for when you’re entertaining a thirsty crowd, or use as a focal point (we advise the latter).

Maxa Giant Cocktail glass, £75, LSA at John Lewis, johnlewis.com

FOR APPRECIATING AROMA: FOR CLASS ACTS: Keep these in the cabinet for ‘best’ and give them an airing when you want to impress.

Taste the difference a correctly shaped glass can make to your Martini with this specialist handmade glass.

Set of two Lismore Diamond Martini glasses, £100, waterford.co.uk

Crystal Vesta Martini glass, £170, William Yeoward at Amara, amara.com The Cocktail Lovers - 39

IN-style

Georgie Bell Luxury Malts Ambassador – Mortlach Why this is special: “It shows my peers in Edinburgh who inspired me to go forward in my career.”

What makes my job unique is… “I’m breaking stereotypes by being the first female Global Malts Ambassador.”

Calli cross over dress, £55, AKA. thisisaka.com

IN-style GET THE DRINKS IN WITH OUR

LEADING LADIES TRUST US, THESE STYLISH LADIES KNOW THEIR DRINKS. FROM BRAND AMBASSADORS AND BARTENDERS TO BROADCASTERS AND BEER EXPERTS, GIVE A WARM WELCOME TO LONDON’S MOST INFLUENTIAL WOMEN IN THE DRINKS INDUSTRY AS THEY SHARE THE POSSESSIONS THAT MEAN THE MOST TO THEM IN THEIR WORK.

Andrea Montague Diageo UK Whisky Ambassador Why this is special to me: “Gary Regan’s The Joy of Mixology was the first cocktail book I read all the way through, it inspired me to take bartending seriously as a career.

By the time I’d finished it, I couldn’t wait to re-read it.”

What makes my job unique is… “I get to look after an amazing portfolio with blended, single malt and American whiskey, so I have a lot of beautiful liquid to play with.”

Dress, Andrea’s own.

The Cocktail Lovers - 41

IN-style

Esther Medina Cuesta Drinks consultant Why this is special to me: “My parents bought me this shaker, it means a lot as it showed their acceptance of my career.”

What makes my job unique is… “I was a teacher before becoming a bartender, so I think I have a natural way of teaching people.”

Lace top with patent belt, £22, Joseph Ribkoff.

Stockist inquiries: 0800 294 3373

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IN-style

Leanne Davidson

Jenny Gardner

Shervene Shahbazkhani

Metinee Kongsrivilai

Brand Manager, Mangrove

Managing Director, Sip Or Mix

Bacardi UK Brand Ambassador

Bacardi UK On-Trade Brand Ambassador

Why this is special to me: “I’d be lost in central London without Googlemaps, so my phone charger is vital. Ditto my Cafe Boheme discount card, it’s where you’ll find me if I’m not in the office.”

What makes my job unique is… “I’m one of the only brand managers who has been on both sides of the bar.”

Jersey Petra top with tie-front collar, £69.95, The Shirt Company. theshirtcompany.com

Why this is special: “If it wasn’t for absinthe I wouldn’t be running my own business, no-one else was doing what needed to be done in this category.”

What makes my job unique is…

“I’m educating people about a spirit they know very little about – I find that very rewarding.”

Chiffon and wool jersey top, £225, Nicole Farhi. nicolefarhi.com

Why this is special: “My original copy of La Ley Mojado was given to me by my first boss – he was the reason I took the job.”

What makes my job unique is…

“It takes me to places I wouldn’t otherwise get to.”

Top: Shervene’s own.

Pictured above with Metinee wearing Bardot Bodycon Midi Dress, £42, Stylistpick. stylistpick.com

Why this is special: “I won my Parisian shaker for making it through to the Three Most Promising in the Bacardi Legacy Competition 2011. That day completely changed my life.”

What makes my job unique is…

“The genuine lifelong friendships I’ve made along the journey.”

Foxy Lady 50s Wiggle Dress, £130, 20thcenturyfoxy.

20thcenturyfoxy.com

The Cocktail Lovers - 43

Maya Weir

Stefanie Holt

Rebecca Seal

Sarah Mitchell

Spirits Specialist, Distillnation

International Brand Ambassador/UK Brand Manager, Eldorado Rum

Food and drinks broadcaster/journalist

General Manager, Callooh Callay

Why this is special to me: “These bottles show the variety of spirits and individuality of the makers I represent.”

What makes my job unique is… “It gives me the opportunity to share that with both the trade and consumer.”

1950s Wrap Circle Dress, £125, 20th Century Foxy.

20thcenturyfoxy.com

Why this is special: “This montage features all of the people who shaped and inspired me while I was living and working in Edinburgh.”

What makes my job unique is… “I work for a small company and my products are like my babies.”

Silk Katlynn top with draped pocket, £109, Fazane Malik. fazanemalik.co.uk

Why this is special to me: “Nothing represents what I do more than my Oxford Companion To Wine – I take it with me everywhere, even on holiday.”

What makes my job unique is… “I can be writing in a room on my own for days, then in a studio with Brian May and the Spice Girls the next – it’s never boring.”

Cotton buttoned blouse, £125, Nicole Farhi. nicolefarhi.com

Why this is special to me: “My Road House bar blade has been with me since I started taking bar tending seriously – it’s my my most treasured possession – it’s like my child.”

What makes my job unique is…

“The fabulous people I meet and the many amazing opportunities my job brings me – I’m eternally grateful.”

Lace sequinned Kyah top, £89, Fazane Malik. fazanemalik.co.uk

44 - The Cocktail Lovers

IN-style

Melissa Cole Beer writer/sommALEier Why this is special to me: “Stemmed glassware and great beer in 330ml bottles has revolutionised the way people think about beer in a white tablecloth environment.”

What makes my job unique… “No-one else is doing food and beer matching to my level and I’m the only woman doing it.”

Shirt, Melissa’s own.

The Cocktail Lovers - 45

IN-style

Amanda Humphrey

Camille Vidal

Herchelle Perez-Torrado

Mixxit Trainer

St. Germain Global Brand Ambassador

Spirits Buyer, Waitrose

Why this is special to me: “I couldn’t do my job without this bag, it contains all my kit and travels everywhere with me.”

What makes my job unique is… “I can be training in a five-star hotel one day, then in a local pub the next – I love the variety.”

3/4 sleeve black and white print jacket, £275, Joseph Ribkoff.

Stockist inquiries: 0800 294 3373

Why this is special: “The beauty of fresh flowers epitomises the elegance and spirit of St. Germain.”

What makes my job unique is… “I get to bring people together with good service and quality drinks.”

Zip-backed top, £25, M&S Collection. marksandspencer.com; black and beige polka dot layered skirt, £22, Izabel. izabel.com

Why this is special to me: “My notebook is always with me, for writing down my thoughts, drawing sketches and making lists.”

What makes my job unique is…

“Bringing inspiration to customers to enjoy and experience spirits to make cocktails and entertain at home.”

1950s Cowl Neck Dress, £99, 20th Century Foxy.

20thcenturyfoxy.com

46 - The Cocktail Lovers

Cover shot: Clotilde Lataille Bartender, Hawksmoor, Spitalfields

Photography by Johnnie Pakington Stylist’s assistant: Beth Redfern Photographed at Plough Yard Studios

Why this is special to me: “My bowler hat has become my trademark and the glass is a connection of my art and bar tending.”

What makes my job unique is… “I get to put my creativity in a glass.”

Gathered shoulder midi dress, £38, Stylistpick. stylistpick.com

The Cocktail Lovers - 47

IN-dustry greats

HEAD IN THE CLOUDS * L O R E N A VA S Q U E Z *

It’s not just the ageing above the clouds in a specially made solera system or the rich virgin honey that gives Zacapa Rum its exceptional taste – its Master Blender is pretty special too. Lorena Vasquez is one of only two female Master Blenders in the industry and don’t let her diminutive size fool you, she’s got a huge personality with big ideas for the brand to match.

I’ve never thought about it before but I’ve been surrounded by rum all my life I was brought up in a sugar cane field as my father was the director of a hospital set on a sugar mill. The smell of sugar cane is a big part of my childhood – it’s like it was my destiny.

I never set out to work in drinks I was drawn to it. After I finished my degree – first in chemistry, then food technology and business administration, I really wanted to do something where I could combine all the senses. Originally I was drawn

48 - The Cocktail Lovers

to working with perfume as I’ve always been interested in flavours and aromas but I ended up working in beer.

It was a man that brought me to Guatemala I’m from Nicaragua and would never have thought of moving to Guatemala if I hadn’t met him. The marriage only lasted seven years but my relationship with Zacapa has proved to be the real love of my life – we’ve been together for 29 years.

When I joined Zacapa I was the only woman working in the distillery Back then people didn’t understand the concept of sipping rum, they didn’t consider it to be a premium spirit. So I changed my strategy. Instead of telling them what was in the glass before they tasted, I got them to taste first, then I’d tell them it was rum. It worked, they really appreciated the quality of Zacapa as they had no misconceptions. These days everyone is trying to do a super-premium rum.

IN-dustry greats

Ageing Zacapa above the clouds isn’t a gimmick, it really does improve the taste I proved that by showcasing it aged in the lowlands and aged above the clouds – everyone agreed, that ageing in the ‘house above the clouds’ added something special – it allows the rum to age at just the right pace.

My relationship with Zacapa has been the real love of my life – we’ve been together for 29 years I really enjoy the creativity that comes with blending There’s a little bit of madness in the research side of things that I like.

In simple terms being a Master Blender is like being a chef You adjust the balance until the taste is right.

I can teach my team a lot but I can’t give them a nosing vocabulary

Do hormones and PMT play an important role in tasting?

Yes, definitely. When it’s a woman’s time of the month her senses go down so you have to take that into consideration.

Obviously, I have a feminine touch But I’m not trying to purposely make Zacapa appeal to female drinkers. Mind you, I like it when it does…

I would love to make a Zacapa fragrance I’d incorporate the sweetness, woody and citric notes from the rum, which would work really well in a scent.

It’s something I’d like to do for my friends.

Zacapa Rums are like men: 23 is a man in his twenties or thirties. He’s friendly, easy-going and open.

XO is a gentleman in his forties or fifties. He’s elegant, a bit more complex, more mature, with more background.

Limitada is ageless. He’s a bit cheeky, has more life and a sparkling personality.

Find out more at zacaparum.com

That’s something that comes from personal experience, it’s built up over the years.

Is my nose insured?

No you can’t do that in Guatemala but you know, J-Lo has her bottom insured, so I really think I should!

Both the Quality Controller and Blender on my team are women I prefer working with women, generally they have more patience, good taste and a lot of skill.

It’s very important to consider emotional levels when you’re tasting If there’s a lot going on in your brain and heart, it can be very difficult to concentrate.

The Cocktail Lovers - 49

IN-dependent spirits

FOXY LADIES Meet LeeAnn Maxwell and Carrie King, creators of Vixen Vodka – created by women for women

H

ow and when did the idea for Vixen Vodka come about? Vixen Vodka was conceived on a girls trip where maybe one too many cocktails could’ve been consumed and we thought we could do it better!

Why did you think there was a need for Vixen Vodka?

While drinking, a conversation ensued about why we drink the brands we drink, and how those brands target us as women. We realised that they didn’t and that there wasn’t a brand out there that spoke to us in a language that was not condescending or treated us as arm candy or sex objects.

How does Vixen differ from the many vodkas on the market? Our language separates us from the pack. We strive to inspire women to be confident, not just in their approach to cocktails, but in all areas of their lives. We talk to women in a way that celebrates who they are at this particular moment in their lives, not 10 pounds from now, not shiny hair from now, not skinny jeans from now. Oh yeah, and the vodka is delicious too!

What unique qualities do women bring to the taste and appreciation of vodka? A woman has more taste buds than a man. Our palate is much more discerning.

We tailored Vixen to appeal specifically to a woman’s taste profile. We knew that women liked to drink, but were put off by the after burn of most vodkas on the market today.

Vixen does not have that after burn as it is formulated from GMO-free sweet corn which gives it a very smooth finish, very creamy, with slight vanilla notes.

Did you come up against much opposition when launching the product? We were told we’d never make it. We were told that it was a male dominated industry that would eat us up and spit us out. We ignored the nay-sayers because we knew we were building a brand, a brand that just happened to be a damn good vodka, but a brand first and foremost.

50 - The Cocktail Lovers

Are you alienating men by promoting your vodka as a vodka by women, for women? We love men.

And men love Vixen. So we’re not ignoring, and we certainly hope we’re not alienating them. However, we knew that women were an ignored segment of the drinking population and that the ‘suits’ in the industry just assumed we’d drink what our ‘men’ drank. We’ve found that men love buying a bottle of Vixen for the vixen in their lives, and then those same men are won over by our taste.

What qualities did you each bring to the business?

Carrie and I came to be entrepreneurs through our years in corporate America; Carrie was in the marketing segment, I was in the financial industry. We’ve both found that our years in corporate boardrooms and on sales forces prepared us for the ups and downs of owning a business. We believe our varied experiences laid the foundation for starting and growing our own empire.

Has it helped or hindered being women in the process of getting your product to market? Not just being women, but also having no experience in the spirits industry, definitely helped propel Vixen from bench to shelf in about two years. We didn’t realise that it usually takes brands much, much longer than that. We kept plugging along because we didn’t know not to. We turned every obstacle into an opportunity.

Have you had to modify any aspects of the business/ product along the way? We’ve not modified our mission statement one iota since we started. We’ve not changed the vodka itself since the day we formulated it. We knew what we wanted to be and we’ve taken actionable steps to get there. Having said that, we’ve modified our business plan almost every month. We learn something new every day and take everything we learn and pivot when we need to.

IN-formed

MAINS & MARTINIS

RESTAURANTS WHERE THE COCK TAILS ARE AS GOOD AS THE FOOD

Ask For Janice

Bob Bob Ricard 1 Upper James Street, London, W1F 9DF. T: 020 3145 1000. bobbobricard.com Who: Party people who appreciate good food and excellent service.

What: The newly refurbished Club Room, once a bar now an intimate, grown-up restaurant.

When: Thurs-Sat, 7.30pm-1am.

Wear: Glamorous dressing is stipulated and dutifully ahdered to.

Ms S says: Uniforms of baby pink waistcoats and fuschia bow ties aside, this is a classy joint. They’ve spent £3 million on the place, installing luxury booth seating, the famous ‘press for Champagne’ buttons at every table – even plug points for recharging your phone. With its low, moody lighting, smouldering red and gold interior and pumping soundtrack, its clubby without feeling like you have to shake a leg on the dance floor.

Start with one or two mini Zakuski – either Russian salad and truffle or Russian herring and caviar, both presented on tiny rye crackers and designed to be consumed in one bite after a shot of ice cold vodka – the ritual sets up the evening perfectly.

Hot dish: My heart wanted to go with the Beef Wellington for two (28-day aged fillet of Aberdeenshire Scotch beef), but my conscience went for the baked sole with vermouth sauce stuffed with smoked sturgeon, served on a bed of spinach. While not exactly a slimmers dish, it did feel like a virtuous

54 - The Cocktail Lovers

option – beautifully presented, deftly cooked and bursting with flavour.

Cool cocktail: Gold Martini (Russian Standard Gold Vodka, Noilly Prat vermouth, garnished with 24 carat gold). Vodka Martinis can be a bit blah but this one is perfectly pitched for the mood of the place and primes the palate nicely. Special mention goes to the Armagnac and prune liqueur Snifter which we sampled instead of dessert after dinner.

Mr G says: I’ve been waiting for someone to open a place like this – bar meets restaurant with nightclub vibe.

Great food, lovely cocktails, sexy space, laid-back music and first-rate service.

The kind of place that makes slipping on a decent suit worthwhile.

Hot dish: Lobster, macaroni and cheese – the description says it all. Put these three big boys together expertly in one fabulous and fulfilling dish and it’s the future. The only drawback was that it put the breaks on me trying the BBR Signature Chocolate Glory. But I’m going back.

Cool cocktail: I occasionally like my Martinis on the dirty side. I’m also partial to an occasional Oyster. Hello, here they are together in The Dirty Oyster Martini (Russian Standard Platinum Vodka, vermouth and Jersey Grade ‘A’ Rock Oyster). The brine from the oyster nestling in the glass dirties things up nicely, while the marinaded oyster slips down equally well with the last sip of the drink.

50-52 Long Lane, London EC1A 9EJ. T: 020 7600 2255. askforjanice.co.uk Who: Youngish, hippish workers in the vicinity from breakfast to cocktails.

What: All-day neighbourhood restaurant.

When: Mon-Fri 7.30am-midnight.

Wear: Low-key East End hipster.

Ms S says: Like hanging out in your artsy friend’s living room. It has that carefully curated I-don’t-care look about it with original artworks thrown in to good effect.

Hot dish: Lamb chop, potato terrine, nettles, beans and gravy – probably a bit fancier than your mum used to make but just as comforting.

Cool cocktail: Perfect Serve G&Ts are the thing here – with five paired with a tonic and complementay garnish. I went for Martin Miller’s with Fever-Tree tonic, fresh strawberries and cracked black pepper, good and summery with an agreeable lightly spiced finish.

Mr G says: The ground floor restaurant is kind of hip without trying too hard, while the hidden basement bar is the place for good times.

Hot dish: Yes, I know a cheeseburger isn’t the most original choice but I’d seen one that someone else had ordered and it looked damned good. As it turned out it was. It went well with my fancy G & T, too.

Cool cocktail: My G & T choice was Ophir served with Fever-Tree tonic and an orange garnish. Well made and attractively presented, the cardamon from the Ophir coming through nicely to complement the big boy burger.

IN-formed

Daphne’s 112 Draycott Avenue, London SW3 3AE. T: 020 7589 4257. daphnes-restaurant.co.uk Who: Chelsea locals, ladies-who-lunch and an older, generally well-heeled set.

What: Informal but smart neighbourhood restaurant and newly appointed bar.

When: Mon-Sat noon-11.30pm; Sun noon-10.30pm.

Wear: The mood is relaxed but there’s an aroma of money in the air. Make sure you err to the dressier side of things.

Ms S says: With its fresh refurb comes a new bar with counter dining positioned at the front of the restaurant. Smart move.

Hot dish: Seared sea bass, lemon and samphire. As straightforward as it sounds but here cooked to perfection.

Cool cocktail: Now we’re talking… I loved The Essence of Alba (Beefeater London Dry Gin, truffle oil, citrus, acacia honey, rosemary water and polenta cracker perched on top) – beautifully balanced, elegant and aromatic to the last drop.

Mr G says: An effortless combination of informality and smartness with the very welcome addition of a more prominent bar, with a classy and creative Italian inspired cocktail menu.

Hot dish: While my main course duck was delicious, it was the Truffled Summer Salad that preceded it that was the standout. Bags of fresh flavours and understated dressing, all allowing the truffle to be the star of the show. Excellent.

Cool cocktail: Every drink here has an Italian influence, several influences in the case of The Half Century Negroni (Plymouth Navy Strength Gin, Cocchi Vermouth di Torino, Campari, Cynar and Saffron Essence). It looked good, garnished with a dried slice of orange and an agreeable aroma that jumped right out of the glass and having aged in the barrel for a few weeks, it tasted good too.

City Social

L’Escargot

25 Old Broad Street, London EC2N 1HQ. T: 020 7877 7720. citysociallondon.com Who: City slickers at lunch, the fash pack in the evening and weekend.

What: Studio 54 for 21st century diners.

When: Restaurant: Mon-Fri noon2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm; Social Bar: MonFri noon-10.30pm; Sat 5pm-10.30pm.

Wear: Pull out your finery.

Ms S says: The thing with most lofty restaurants and/or bars is the view tends to be the star of the show. Not so here.

Everything about this place oozes sexy style and glamour, so much so you forget about what’s outside.

Hot dish: Don’t leave without tasting the goat’s cheese churros and London truffle honey. Oh-my-G! Mains of rib-eye steak served with duck fat chips, salad, béarnaise and peppercorn sauce was perfection personified.

Cool cocktail: Dutty Wine (Wray & Nephew, Appleton V/X, lemon, jerked pineapple, grenadine), served in a travelsized bottle – not only a great name but a very moreish cocktail too.

Mr G says: Some of the very best food in town, meets some of the very best cocktails, with some of the very best views thrown in for good measure. Enough said.

48 Greek Street, London W1D 4EF. T: 020 7439 7474. lescargotrestaurant.co.uk Who: Soho stalwarts, enlightened pretheatre goers and those after a trip down memory lane.

Hot dish: There’s always something comforting about an old school dish like Fish Pie. Granted it might not seem the most obvious accompaniment to serious evening drinks but it worked for me.

Beautifully executed with nice fat chunks of fish.

Hot dish: The menu is the perfect example of text book French restaurant cooking.

You could be blindfolded and make your selection with a pin and not be disappointed. I didn’t do this but instead went for Les Escargots Extraordinaire and Steak Tartare. Very, very French. Very, very gorgeous.

Cool cocktail: I started my journey with Vermouth? You Can’t Handle Vermouth (Bulleit rye whiskey, Cocchi vermouth di Torino, Gancia bianco, Campari and Pierre Ferrand dry curaçao). Not only was I pleased to find that I could handle it, it also made me very, very happy.

What: Smart new take for the oldest restaurant in Soho.

When: Mon-Sat 11am-midnight; Sun 11am-6pm.

Wear: Casual/smart.

Ms S says: Another much welcome renovation, with new ownership and management. As well as the food and atmopshere we like the extensive but reasonably priced wine list (from £18 a bottle), with daily changing wine specials available by the glass and carafé.

Hot dish: Veal chop with lemon and thyme strikes the balance between comforting home cooking and show-off cheffy shenanigans. Wonderful.

Cool cocktail: Classic menus call for classic drinks. I went for a Gin Martini – I won’t lie and say it changed my life but it didn’t disappoint.

Mr G says: Lovely to see this Soho institution getting a wash and brush up.

Still as elegant as ever and looking every inch the elder statesman of French dining in London.

Cool cocktail: L’Escargot Mar ‘tea’ ni (gin with apple and cranberry tea). Served from a tea pot for a bit of table theatre, it was nice and tart and a good aperitif to sharpen up the tastebuds for the rich French flavours to follow.

The Cocktail Lovers - 55

IN-formed

WORD UP...

NEWS, VIEWS, REVIEWS AND HOW-TOS

TALES FROM THE BAR Postcard from Paris by Remy Savage, Little Red Door

shared by head bartender Simon Chollet and his team for the beauty of Japan. Here you can enjoy some delicious and innovative cocktails, many of which are inspired by the Japanese lifestyle and ingredients.

What to drink: Go for one of their rare, ‘lost’ whiskies, or try the Seaweed & Co. – a twist on the perfect Manhattan with wakame-infused vermouth.

Little Red Door, 3eme, lrdparis.com

Paris is renowned for its quintessentially French sunny terrace cafés, perfect for un petit apéro before a romantic dinner. While on the surface tradition holds strong, take a closer look and you will see a new city emerging… the Paris of the night.

If you know where to go, Paris is rapidly becoming one of the most exciting and influential cities in the cocktail world…

Le Mary Celeste, 3eme, lemaryceleste.com From the creative minds behind Candelaria, this nautical-inspired favourite of the beautiful Marais is perfect for a small bite of seasonal delights (they do a killer Eggs Benedict), and most importantly, some of my favourite drinks in the city with a strong focus on light drinks and ‘aperitif’ ingredients – all prepared by Michael Mas and his welcoming team of recently-graduated bartenders.

What to drink: Try the ‘Jean Gouyé’, a subtle and light combination of tequila, mandarine, Suze, sage and lemon.

Sherry Butt, 4eme, sherrybuttparis.com With one of the largest selections of Japanese whiskies in France, some serious ice-carving skills, and a stunning, uncluttered, and elegant design, it is easy to see the passion 56 - The Cocktail Lovers

Of course, no tour of Paris would be complete without a visit to our very own home-fromhome, where we focus on service and flavour, and leave the rest up to you. The essence of our work at LRD is simplicity, as we seek to create the most unique drinks, without distraction.

Every drink has a dash of salt solution for the flavour of your cocktail never to end.

You can also try some unusual homemade products like paper syrup, Christmas morning liqueur or leather tincture.

Everyone from the doorman to the floor staff is a bartender and are simply here to make Nietzsche’s words more true “behind every little red door hides a wonderful world” .

What to drink: My new favourite – named after Paris’ very own dame de la nuit – the Lulu White: mezcal, yellow chartreuse, Vermouth del Professore, absinthe and salt solution. Just mind blowing!

Harry’s New York Bar, 2eme, harrysbar.fr Another must-visit is Harry’s, especially for those who have even the slightest historical curiosity. While the drinks may not be as well mixed as in the countless new bars of the French capital, it’s still one of my favourite places in the world to sit back and remember why we do what we love.

What to drink: Why, the Bloody Mary, of course!

ONE FOR THE DRINKS CABINET Okay, get over it, the old Tanqueray No. TEN model has gone to the bottle bank in the sky. Yes, it was a thing of beauty but don’t let its demise muddy your opinion of its replacement. We’ve come round to the voluptuous new model, with its pronounced cocktail shaker shape, fresh green looks, and dimpled lemon-squeezer base, but if it takes you a little longer to get used to, don’t worry the gin inside hasn’t changed a jot. alexanderandjames.com

IN-formed

CREATE A STIR EACH MONTH

Ou est Madam St. Germain?

Three or so years ago the Art Deco-inspired St. Germain bottle was sitting on the back bar, looking pretty but gathering dust. Then Camille Vidal was charged with being its Brand Ambassador. Distinctly French, gorgeous and a brilliant bartender to boot, she’s been on a onewoman crusade to give the aromatic elderflower liqueur the recognition it deserves.

27th July

National Scotch Day Whisky Royale 25ml Scotch Whisky Dash of apple schnapps (or clear apple juice) Ginger ale Sliced green apple Method: Half fill a Champagne flute with crushed ice. Pour in the Scotch Whisky and then the apple schnapps. Top up with ginger ale. Place an apple slice into the glass.

Recipe: Scotch Whisky Association. scotch-whisky.org.uk

5th August

National Beer Day Dram-Brew-ie 40ml Drambuie 25ml lemon juice 25ml orange juice Dash of Angostura® aromatic bitters Top with India Pale Ale Method: Pour everything apart from the Pale Ale into a shaker and shake over ice. Pour into a Collins glass. Top with India Pale Ale and garnish with an orange wedge.

29th September

National Coffee Day

“St. Germain was there but it was a forgotten product,” she admits. “I wanted people to appreciate its incredible versatility”. It sounds easy enough but in a world where sexy new drinks products are launched every day, you’ve got your work cut out finding a way to stand out from the crowd. And that’s how Madam St. Germain was born.

“It was important to give the brand a face, a personality,” she says with an accent so French, it’s almost a parody. There couldn’t be a better person to embody the spirit of the product. Not just for the French thing she has going on but for her creativity, vast network around the world and the entrepreneurial aspect she brings to the brand.

Apart from getting bartenders to appreciate the nuances of St. Germain in their cocktails, she set up Les Femmes Du Bar. “I want to build communities and support bartenders as much as I can. Les Femmes Du Bar is just one aspect of this. There’s nothing feminist about it, it’s my way of saying, we’re all girls behind the bar, why don’t we hang out and get to know each other and learn from each other?” Les Femmes meet up every few months for anything from perfume master-classes to burlesque and brunch, plus a cocktail competition during London Cocktail Week.

What started out as a few bartenders in London, has gained momentum in France and Stockholm and Camille has plans for more to follow soon.

“We’re building a wall with this industry and I feel I’m putting one block on it. I want to support people, help them to grow. I want bartenders and consumers to be more confident and creative with their drinks. It’s an exciting time – not just for St. Germain but drinks generally.”

Espresso Martini

Tune into Camille on Jamie Oliver’s Drinks Tube Channel.

40ml Kahlúa

stgermain.fr

25ml vodka 25ml freshly brewed Espresso Coffee beans to garnish (optional) Method: Shake ingredients over ice. Strain into a chilled Martini glass. Garnish with three coffee beans.

DID

YOU KNOW? 58 - The Cocktail Lovers

One in five spirit drinkers in the UK drinks gin?

Source: William Grant & Sons Market Report 2014.

ONE TO WATCH Vasilis Kyritsis from Athens. He dazzled judges in the World Class Greek Finals with his inventive serve inspired by the perception of colour and taste – big things coming soon.

COMMON WEALTH OF DRINKING This summer sees the 53 countries of the Commonwealth descend on Glasgow for the second most exciting sporting event of the summer (unless you like golf!) As Diplomatic Ambassador of Drinking for the games, it is my privilege and duty to deliver the official guide to ‘The Common Wealth of Drinking in Glasgow’. This report will provide the who’s who and the where’s where on all my favourite spots to hit up between the showcases of sporting wonderment.

By Fraser Barrett The Wee Guy’s Cafe What better way to start your tour of Glasgow than breakfast? And a good one is essential if you plan on keeping up the pace on this tour, so The Wee Guy’s Cafe in the Merchant City is what I have lined up. The menu is pretty extensive and offers everything from a square sausage and tattie (potato) scone roll with a can of Bru for the road, to a full Scottish with a decent cup of coffee or, if

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you really want to push the boat out, Eggs Benedict with a St. Clements. Nice chilled surrounds and a good spot for people-watching, paired with top-class food to satisfy people from all corners of the Commonwealth, there’s no better way to start the day.

51-53 Cochrane Street, G1 1HL. T: 0141 552 5338

IN-sider’s Guide

Booly Mardy’s For the next stop we’re hightailing it from the glamour of the Merchant City to the more bohemian surrounds of the West End. Seeing as we missed one for breakfast, I thought it would be about time for a mid-morning Bloody Mary, and if you want one of these bad boys to get you ready for the afternoon, then there’s nowhere better than Booly Mardy’s. There are a couple of variations on the menu but I would recommend the house special, it has all kinds of tasty things going on, and if you’re lucky enough to get a bit of sun while you’re there, Booly’s has a lovely terrace area out front to catch some of the famous ‘weegie’ summer.

28 Vinicombe Street, G12 8BE. T: 0141 560 8004. boolymardys.com

The Finnieston Next in the triangle is The Finnieston for a spot of dinner.

The restaurant serves some of the best Scottish seafood the city has to offer, and if it’s on the menu you know it’s going to be fresh. The staff are on point and will guide you through the menu and specials if you’re looking for a bit of direction. As well as a phenomenal food offering the drinks selection is up there with the best of them. The drinks list is gin orientated with some tasty house classics and a signature serve G&T list.

1125 Argyle Street, G3 8ND. T: 0141 222 2884. thefinniestonbar.com

Inn Deep A scenic walk through Kelvingrove Park takes you through to lunch and the next stop of the tour, the Williams Bros. bar, Inn Deep, set on the Riverside of the Kelvin. The strong range of Williams Bros. beers is available along with a rolling selection of guest ales. To accompany your choice of craft beer, why not try some food? If the weather is nice enough the guys will crack out the BBQ and grill up a storm, or you could try one of the burgers or pizzas from the menu with a couple of sides. There’s plenty of variety here and something to appeal to everyone.

445 Great Western Road, G12 8HH. T: 0141 357 1075. inndeep.com Kelvingrove Cafe Another trip through the park takes us to Finnieston where you are really spoiled for choice. The area has more bars and restaurants worth checking out than I could squeeze into this brief overview. With that being the case I will focus on the ‘Finnie Triangle’, three bars that cater to all your desires over the course of a weekend, and much like the one in Bermuda, many good people have been known to go missing down this gentrified sinkhole.

First port of call in the triangle is the Kelvingrove Cafe, which has everything you could hope for from a bar – great staff, strong drinks list, hearty food, and very laid-back vibes.

A cheeky aperitif before dinner is the order of the day. Either pick something from the beautifully designed menu, or you could sample the official Commonwealth Games cocktail.

This concoction includes the specially-created bitters featuring botanicals from each of the Commonwealth Countries and a seasonal ‘Glasgow Shrub’ made by Hawthorn Drinks.

1161-1163 Argyle Street, G3 8TB. T: 0141 221 8988. kelvingrovecafe.com

Blythswood square hotel

Distill To complete the triangle we’re popping across the road to Distill. This is a good time bar that has it all, with a roster of guest DJs playing everything from funk and soul to house and techno depending on the night of the week. Regardless of who’s on you’re always guaranteed to have a good time.

Really friendly staff, a fun cocktail list and banging burgers have helped build its reputation as a bar where the regulars develop Stockholm Syndrome.

1102-1106 Argyle Street, G3 7RX. T: 0141 337 3006. distillbar.co.uk Blythswood Square Hotel If you have the strength of character to pull yourself away from the triangle then our last stop of the tour takes us to the Blythswood Hotel for a nightcap; because why not finish your night in the opulent and luxurious setting of the Lounge Bar on the first floor? If at this stage you are still able to pick up the wonderfully designed menu without having to squint or concentrate too much then it’s well worth a browse. With such a substantial number of drinks on offer, choosing one can be a tricky affair. Whether you’re struck by doubt or if all the words are blurring together on the page, then have a chat with one of the bartenders, tell them a bit about what you like and they will whip up exactly the concoction you were hoping for.

11 Blythswood Square, G2 4AD. T: 0141 248 8888. townhousecompany.com/blythswoodsquare

The Cocktail Lovers - 61

There’s something about

CLASSIC COCKTAILS, COOL BACKDROPS AND BUCKET LOADS OF CULTURE, CUBA’S CAPITAL HAS GOT THE LOT

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IN-ternational

O

n the face of it Havana and its people appear to be languishing in a glorious made-for-photo-ops time warp. Visitors can’t get enough of the faded grandeur of its colonial buildings, their once stoic façades and vivid pastel shades now artfully crumbling and muted with time. Then there are the 1950s glam-mobiles: bright as you like Buicks, Plymouths and Chevvies which cruise down the road with all the pomp of royalty when more often than not they’re held together with duct tape and tons of pride.

Havana offers an intoxicating glimpse into its past alright.

You can practically feel the ghosts of the hoards of rich Americans who made the journey over during the Prohibition era. Forget Ibiza, this was the original party island, the place where those who laughed in the face of the Dry ban imposed in the US could drink as much as they liked.

And oh how they drank. According to writers and historians Anistatia Miller and Jared Brown in their book Cuban Cocktails, a dozen bartenders headed to Cuba every day.

And with them came the booze cruisers. With 7,000 bars to choose from in Havana alone, it’s fair to say Cuba was fuelled by alcohol from 1919 to the early 1930s.

Take its music for instance. Stick to the tourist trail and it’s all Buena Vista Social Club and rhumba. Head to where the locals go and you can skank along to bass-heavy reggaeton riddims, or bust a move to funky electro and Cuban pop. The same can be said for the cocktails. While no visit to this part of the world is complete without propping up the bar with Ernest Hemingway’s statue at El Floridita or spending time at his other favourite spot, La Bodeguita, there are Daiquiris to be quaffed at a growing number of hip hang-outs. For a real taste of Havana we suggest mixing up old and new.

Mi mojito en La Bodeguita, mi daiquiri en El Floridita – Ernest Hemingway

That was Cuba’s heyday. But don’t be fooled into thinking that this large Caribbean island – Havana in particular – hasn’t moved on since then. It has. It’s just not so in-your-face.

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The three C’s of Cuba COCKTAILS El Cocinero, calle 26e/11 y 13, Vedado. T: +53 7 832 2355 This is one of the new wave of privately-owned bars and restaurants that’s sprung up in Havana over the past two years and it’s certainly drawing in the crowds. Housed in a former cooking oil factory there’s a look and feel of Ibiza cool about it, particularly in the open-air terrace with its mix of minimalist white furniture, lush planting, chill-out soundtrack and look-at-me backlit bar. There was no menu on our visit (they’re working on it) but they say that they’re happy to mix any of the classics. We stuck to the Daiquiris, here available in your choice of exotic fruity options including strawberry, papaya, mango and pineapple.

El Floridita, Obispo No.557 esq. a Monserrate, Havana Vieja. T: +53 7 867 1299 Alejandro Bolivar and his red-jacketed team get through around 36 to 48 bottles of Havana Club 3 Year Old rum and 30 litres of freshly-squeezed limes every day – that’s around 450 Daiquiris every 24 hours. Yes, the dark, smoky El Floridita is most definitely on the tourist trail. Once here, only one drink will do and that’s the frozen Daiquiri. In truth, the drink although good, gets lost in the overall experience.

It’s hard not to get caught up in the Alejandro show behind the bar, life-size statue of Papa Hemingway to the left, Cuban band squidged behind one side of the door and giant bottle of Havana Club on the other. That’s even before you get to the cubicle to the rear selling branded goods. Don’t worry if you don’t want to push past the crowds, a waitress will bring them over to your table. It sounds like a spectacle and to some extent it is, but it’s one that’s too good to miss.

Esencia Habana, calle B, entre Línea y 7 número 153 Vedado, Ciudad de la Havana. T: +53 7 836 3031 From the outside it looks like a rather grand, lavishly restored colonial house, step in and it is also home to a bustling bar.

Modern in feel, there are elements of trad about it, like the rustic tiled floor, stained glass panelled windows and oversized television plonked pride of place over the central mahogany bar. Ignore that last bit and it’s rather a cool spot.

The cocktail list is extensive and the back bar boasts big names like Beefeater, Grey Goose, Tanqueray and Bombay Sapphire. Still, it’s the Cuban Classics that win out – it may not be the most adventurous of choices but there’s nothing wrong with a Cuba Libre in its birthplace.

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La Bodeguita del Medio, calle Empedrado entre Cuba y San Ignacio, Havana Vieja.T: +53 7 571374/5 Shhh, don’t tell the others but this was our favourite. Yes, it’s touristy and yes, the Mojitos are expensive but if it’s Cuban authenticity you want, this is your baby. Fight through the crowds, taking time to check out the role call of names scribbled on the walls and make your way to the two small rooms upstairs. No doubt it’ll be packed which just adds to the party vibe. Order a Mojito just to see what all the fuss is about – this was Mr Hemingway’s drink of choice here and why the place is always heaving. Like all of the old-school bars, they somehow manage to squeeze a live band into the teeny space which just adds to the appeal. If you can, have a peek out of the window in the chill-out room to the rear for fantastic views over to the square.

Sloppy Joe’s, Animas esq. a Zulueta, Havana Vieja T: +53 7 866 7157 It’s back, the bar and restaurant that once counted Frank Sinatra, Nat King Cole, John Wayne and Noel Coward amongst its many guests, has reopened its doors after lying empty for almost 50 years. Very much aimed at tourists, the large, slick space still serves up Sloppy Joe sandwiches (ground beef piled high in a bun) and a selection of rum specials and international cocktails such as Margaritas, Screwdrivers and Pina Coladas. The star of the show is the original 18-metre mahogany bar, polished to an impressively high shine. Shame about the television sets hanging over it…

IN-vite only

SNAPSHOT: 1.

Pictures from the hottest events, competitions and openings in the last three months

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1. Bombay Sapphire World’s Most Imaginative Bartender Final, Dartmouth House, London, June 2014.

4. Amber Rose at the Grey Goose Le Melon Toast to Swizz Beatz. Photo Johnny Nunez.

West Hollywood, June 2014.

2. David Shrigley and Mourad Mouzaz at the David Shrigley ceramics launch at Sketch, sponsored by Pommery and Ketel One Vodka.

London, June 2014.

5. Spike Lee at the Grey Goose Le Melon Toast to Swizz Beatz. Photo Johnny Nunez. West Hollywood, June 2014.

3. Jamie Oliver and Simone Caporale at the launch of Jamie Oliver’s Drinks Tube, sponsored by Bacardi. London, May 2014.

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6. Lara Bohnic and Polly Morgan at at the David Shrigley ceramics launch at Sketch, sponsored by Pommery and Ketel One Vodka.

London, June 2014

7. Cara Santana and Jesse Metcalfe at the 200th Prezzo opening party. Photo Dave Benet.

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Venus Williams at Wimbledon Tennis Association party at the Roof Gardens, presented by Dubai World Duty Free, sponsored by Ciroc Vodka. London, June 2014.

9. Bacardi Legacy Global Cocktail Competition – the final. Petrovsky Palace, Moscow, May 2014.