ISSN 2052 0603
In the hotseat Julie Reiner on life behind bars
Girls allowed Competitions with a female focus
The lady nose best Talking rum with Lorena Vasquez
+ 10 of the best glasses for Martini o’ clock
On the cover
Bowled over by the leading ladies of drinks
IN-tro
LET’S HE AR IT
FOR THE
GIRLS Not that we’re being sexist or anything but we do our fair share of giving the guys a jolly good pat on the back, now it’s time to do the same for the girls. Believe us, we haven’t even touched the sides of the wealth of incredible female talent out there. Which is a good thing. It proves that even though there’s still a long way to go in terms of equal representation across the board, we’re much further down the road than we were before. Someone who’s seen the changes over the last two and a half decades or so is the queen of the New York cocktail scene Julie Reiner. We talk to her about being an innovator and mentor to both men and women over the years (p. 10), and ask eight female bartenders around the world for their views from behind the stick (p. 12). We cross to Guatemala where Lorena Vasquez packs a man-sized punch in her role as Master Blender at Zacapa rum (p. 48), while over in Georgia, LeeAnn Maxwell and Carrie King give us the lowdown on their vodka created with female drinkers in mind (p. 50). And what about the ladies sharing the cocktail love in London? We hired a photographic studio, kitted it out with a rail full of clothes and asked some of the most influential women on the drinks scene to strike a pose for our ace photographer Johnnie Pakington (p. 40). We think you’ll agree, not only do they do a smashing job but they look pretty damned awesome as well. Ladies of drinks we salute you.
Happy imbibing! Ms S & Mr G
www.thecocktaillovers.com
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Enjoy Taboo responsibly
IN-gredients
6. IN-the know
36. IN-focus
25 reasons to be a cocktail lover this season Acting like we’re breaking bad, drinking art and succumbing to some serious pampering – just a few of the things we’re looking forward to in the next few months
Skinny vs. full-bodied Are you opting to go lighter on your cocktails or do you prefer to go big or go home? We argue the case for both
10. IN-terview
38. IN-dulge Glass acts Ten Martini glasses to covet
In the hotseat – Julie Reiner The queen of the New York cocktail scene on 25 years in the business and why it takes chutzpah to be a woman in drinks
40. IN-style
12. IN-spire
48. IN-dustry greats
Girls on top Is it really any different being a female behind the bar? We asked eight ace bartenders from around the world for their personal views
Head in the clouds Talking rum, nose insurance and true loves with Zacapa Master Blender Lorena Vasquez
22. IN-spire A few of my favourite things Inside the brilliant mind of Rebekkah Dooley, champion in hospitality marketing, menu design and social media management
24. IN-spire Ladybird books Yolanda Evans meets three authors with spirited tales to tell
26. IN-spire Take a walk on the wild side Grab a bucket and a good reference book and go foraging for cocktail ingredients – just like Emil Seth Areng
30. IN-the spotlight Girls allowed Celebrating the new wave of cocktail competitions which put women firmly in focus
30. IN-the spotlight The craft of: The professional ‘nose’ Nancy Fraler sheds light on what it takes to be a ‘ghost’ blender and why intutition plays a huge role in the job
35. IN-focus Drink to your health In the first in a new series Claire Smith and Georgia van Tiel share their top tips on how to drink responsibly
Get the drinks in with… Our leading ladies. One studio, 16 incredible women all stirring things up very nicely in London
50. IN-dependent spirits Foxy ladies Vixen Vodka, created by women for women (but also enjoyed by men)
53. IN-the mix D.I.Y cocktail ingredients: Watermelon syrup Andy Campana gives the lowdown on making simple but delicious cocktail ingredients for the home and the bar
54. IN-the know Mains & Martinis Five London restaurants where the cocktails are as good as the food
56. IN-the know Word up… News, views, reviews and interviews from the cocktail front
60. IN-sider’s guide Common wealth of drinking Inspired by the Commonwealth Games Fraser Barrett has put in the training to bring you the winning bars in Glasgow
62. IN-ternational There’s something about Cuba… Drinking in the culture in Cuba’s capital of cool
66. IN-vite only
Editors: Sandrae Lawrence, Gary Sharpen Sub-editor: Sally Briggs Creative Director: James Cheverton at Burnt Studio burntstudio.com Illustrations: Melanie Milne mellmadedesign.com; pezandpencil.co.uk Becky Roberts doodleyboo.com Nick Schon nickschonillustrator.com; Photography: Johnnie Pakington johnniepakington.com; Travis Watson traviswatson@hotmail.co.uk Contributors: Emil Seth Areng, Fraser Barrett, Andy Campana, Yolanda Evans, Beth Redfern, Remy Savage, Claire Smith, Georgia van Tiel, Lauryn Tomlinson For all editorial and advertising enquiries, please contact: mail@thecocktaillovers.com 020 7242 2546 www.thecocktaillovers.com Printed by Polestar UK Print Ltd. Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of The Cocktail Lovers magazine without prior permission from the editors is strictly prohibited. Cover shot: Clotilde Lataille, bartender at Hawksmoor, Spitalfields (for details, see p. 47) Issue No. 12 Summer 2014 The Cocktail Lovers magazine is published by The Cocktail Lovers in London, UK
PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY
Snap-shot The best bits from the last three months
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REASONS TO BE A COCKTAIL LOVER THIS SEASON Elevating our parties, making like bag ladies and playing to the crowd – just three of the things we’re looking forward to in the next three months
01
Slipping into our finest threads
La touche aka mr hat © dean chalkley; creative direction by harris elliott
in honour of Return of the Rudeboy, our cultural pick of the summer. With sharp shots from Dean Chalkley and a pop-up grooming station from rude bwoy barber Johnnie Sapong, it goes without saying it’s rum Old-Fashioneds all round. Until 25 August at Somerset House. somersethouse.org.uk
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ACTING LIKE WE’RE BREAKING BAD
with our own chemists cocktail kit. Complete with test tubes, beaker, stirrer and shaker – all that’s missing is the white coat… thegiftoasis.com
03
IN-the know
Mixing cocktails al fresco packed with everything you need to make an A1 Margarita this limited-edition cocktail case is right on the money – bring on the sun! tipplesworth.com
4
Elevating our parties
‘Oh’ and ‘my’, have you seen how sexy this Möet Ice Impérial Limited Edition Summer Escape Trunk is? It takes bubbles on to a whole new level – particularly as these ones are created to be sipped over ice. Available exclusively at Selfridges. selfridges.com
06
STOPPING EVERYTHING FOR TEA
Seriously. As well as Bunny Cupcakes and savouries, the teatime treats at Playboy Club London, include your choice of a Fruity, Floral, Spicy or Classic cocktail made by Salvatore Calabrese. playboyclublondon.com
SEVEN
05
SUCCUMBING TO SOME SERIOUS PAMPERING
Top pick: the Sip & Spa package at One Aldwych hotel. Just the tonic for mind, body and spirit, this summer reviver takes in a 60-minute Natura Bissé Radiance Booster Facial, 30-minute energyboosting body scrub, plus a stunning cocktail in The Lobby Bar afterwards. We like. onealdwych.com
Beating the heat
by cooling off with an ice lolly. Sound boring? Then you obviously haven’t tasted a Lickalix poptail. Enjoy one of the 12 cocktail-licious combos including spiced rum and plum; banana Daiquiri and Pina Colada – they’re the biz! lickalix.com
08
TAKING THE BAR HOME
Three of the best bars in the world have created bottled cocktails for you to enjoy any time you bloomin’ well want. Try the Cocktails Collection from The Savoy available at selfridges.com; Small-Batch Cocktails from Eau de Vie in Australia via vintagecellars.com, or the Affinity cocktail from Bramble Bar, available through masterofmalt.com
09 Sipping from a Manolo Blahnik slipper We’re talking shiny black killer heels with the trademark red sole. Walter Pintus’s sparkling Tallulah cocktail is every bit as classy as the vessel it’s served in. Indulge your senses at The Ritz. theritzlondon.com The Cocktail Lovers - 7
IN-the know
10
MAKING LIKE BAG LADIES Wine in a bag? You’ve got to be kidding right? Er no. Squint and these Vernissage handbags could easily pass for the real thing. Look carefully and there’s a nifty spout on the side to dispense either Chardonnay, rosé or a juicy red. More useful than designer versions… theexceptionalwinecompany.com
TWELVE
HAVING COCKTAILS FOR BREAKFAST Sound hardcore? Not if you’ve been to APM at Zinc. Living up to it’s name (Always Past Midnight) the new member’s club opens from 2.30am to 7am and serves luxxed-up breakfasts such as summer truffled scrambled eggs along with Bombay Sapphire-based Redemptions. Amen! alwayspastmidnight.co.uk
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13. ROCKING UP AT WRAY’S HOUSE for reggae, rum and roots food – Jamaican style. The house party of the year takes in live riddims from Goldie, Ragga Twins and Tippa Irie, food by Andi Oliver, records from Dub Vendor plus drinks and hospitality courtesy of Wray & Nephew rum. 2nd August. wearebigchill.com
INDULGING IN COCKTAIL CONFECTIONERY
Imagine a cross between an American hard gum and the concentrated flavour of a French pate de fruit. Then add alcohol. At Smith & Sinclair the humble sweet gets serious. Suck on Whisky Sours, Gin & Tonics, and Mixed Berry Daiquiris. Mmm! smithandsinclair.co.uk 8 - The Cocktail Lovers
11.
SWEARING BY OUR SEASONINGS
Bitter Bastards is the Sid Vicious of cocktail seasonings, packing an uncompromising, kick-ass punch. Don’t go expecting subtleties, the single botanical flavours are, well, bitter bastards, put them to the test for yourself. Available in 25 varietals including Sour Cherry, Black Pepper and White Truffle. masterofmalts.com
14
WAKING UP AND SMELLING THE COFFEE Playing it straight by day, Soho Grind cranks up the caffeine at night. Call in for pre-party liveners such as the Grind Espresso Martini and Flat White Russians. sohogrind.com
16. GOING FOR CHOCOLATE OVERLOAD
If you’re going to indulge, do it right. At Bad Brownie they don’t mess about with namby-pamby confections, they go straight for the good stuff. Check their wicked brownie selection including whisky and marmalade, and chilli, orange and triple sec. De-lish. badbrownie.co.uk
17 Practising our languages Forget that phrase book which you’ll never use, this goblet is all the help you need on holiday. You’re welcome. thegiftoasis.com
Drinking art
18
No wonder Artesian and Nightjar come in at numbers one and two respectively on the World’s 50 Best Bars list – have you seen the stunning cocktails on their new menus? We’re smitten. barnightjar.com (left), artesian-bar.co.uk (right).
IN-the know
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DRINKING FROM CARTONS
Don’t be fooled: with its mix of Grand Marnier, cognac, yuzu, lime, soda and bitters Gareth Evans’ and Kyle Wilkinson’s playful orange juice carton is definitely for the grown-ups. Available exclusively at The Blind Pig. theblind-pig.co.uk
TWENTY TWO...
PIMPING UP OUR ICE CUBES How so? Simple. We’ll place bits of fruit and flowers, or splashes of alcohol into the Giant Ice Cube, then leave the freezer to do the rest. Once it’s set, add to all manner of summery cocktails and punches. Fresh! lekue.co.uk
23 Firing
up the blender
We’re getting in the Pina Colada groove. We like the way they serve it at The Portobello Star: 25ml El Dorado 3yo Rum, 25ml Myers Rum, 8 cubes of fresh pineapple, a squirt of Coco Lopez and a large scoop of ice. Blend ingredients together and pour. Garnish with a cherry. portobellostarbar.co.uk. Blender, alessi.com
CLEANING UP OUR ACT
Adding to our art collection
This personalised metro-style map will do nicely, thanks. notonthehighstreet.com
21
Whether prepping for the barbie or tending bar, this nifty upcycled apron has you covered. Bonus points for retro recipes. huntedandstuffed.com
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Spreading the cocktail love
We’re jamming but forget the sugary stuff, we’ve discovered Jumijam. Great in the kitchen but equally tasty behind the bar, the all-natural range includes orange and cognac, peach and amaretto, pineapple and spiced rum as well as apricot and rosemary flavours. Use to zhush up your drinks. jumijam.weebly.com
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PLAYING TO THE CROWD
Decks? Check. Mic? Check. Sound booth? Check. Add a bottle of vodka, your personal mixologist and a hideaway room full of friends and you’ve got yourself The Studio at London Cocktail Club. Bookings advised. londoncocktailclub.co.uk The Cocktail Lovers - 9
IN THE HOTSEAT
Julie Reiner
THE FIRST LADY OF DRINKS
Of all the professions in all the world, why bartending and bar ownership? I’m from Hawaii, hospitality is in our DNA. My first real job was as a cocktail waitress in a bar in Waikiki. I was around 18 at the time and all the girls worked on the floor while the men worked behind the bar. It was pretty much the same when I got my first job in a cocktail bar in Florida. It was called The Pub and served beers and shots – I was intrigued by it all from the start. When did you realise it was what you wanted to do? After graduating from college I moved to San Francisco and I found The Red Room. That place completely changed my life. Here was a fierce and amazing team of females working behind the bar. Not only did they look amazing but they were making classic cocktails and using fresh, seasonal juices – no-one else was doing this at the time, the normal thing was mixes and juices from a gun. I met so many fantastic people there, including my now wife and Michelle Connolly, one of my business partners. Which facets of your personality does this industry appeal to and why? I love the fact that it’s completely different every day.
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Nights that you think will be slow turn out to be busy and vice-versa – the unpredictability and excitement that comes from working in this business really appeals to me. Plus I love being the facilitator of good times.
Describe the ethos behind all of your bars and how, in your opinion, you have managed to fulfil your own brief. Like The Red Room I wanted to have a culinary approach to cocktails. No-one was really doing it in New York apart from Dale DeGroff at the Rainbow Room and Milk & Honey but Milk wasn’t particularly well known back then. I started doing seasonal menus at C3, the bar I was managing at the time and writers started to write about me and my approach to cocktails. Before I knew it I was on the front page of the New York Times, so I built on that. I guess you could say my initial success was down to supply and demand. Has being a female in the drinks industry helped or hindered you in your career? Honestly, it’s helped more than hindered. I’ve always worked with a lot of women, from The Red Room to some of the partners in my bars. Although being a female in the
IN-terview
industry has never bothered me personally, it’s definitely been the topic of conversation because of being a minority. Of your many accolades, both as a bartender and bar owner, which are you proudest of and why? Definitely the Best Mentor award at the Spirited Awards at Tales of the Cocktails last year. It felt very special to be honoured for being a mentor to all the talented people who have gone on to open their bars and run consultancies – that was something very personal. You’ve worked in the industry for 25 years, what’s been the biggest change you’ve seen: a) In the trade? How quickly it has grown. Also bar tending is regarded as a respectable profession now. 10 years ago people used to ask, “yes but what do you really want to do?” when you told them you were a bartender – they don’t anymore. b) Consumer consciousness? Consumers have become seriously educated from reading books and magazines – they know what they want which forces bartenders to be at the top of their game. These days it’s hard for bartenders to fake it. What changes would you still like to see in the coming years? It will be great when people stop asking me what it’s like being a woman behind the bar – that will mean it’s no longer a rarity. I’d also like to see an end to the ‘boys club’ style bars that refuse to hire women because they’re pretending it’s 1986 or something, that’s seriously got to change. Women are believed to be nurturing and hospitable by their nature so why, in your opinion, are we not seeing more of them working behind the bar? There are aspects of the bar industry that can be very aggressive, not so much in the US where women behind, managing and owning bars is more commonplace, but in the rest of the world, London in particular – it can be like playing a game of soccer. You’ve got to be a certain kind of woman to be able to take that on and play the game. It takes chutzpah. What is the difference between a good bartender and a good bar owner and has this changed over the years? That’s what my So you want to open your own bar? talk at Tales of the Cocktail this year was about – it was part of a seminar where I was among the bar luminaries reading an imaginary letter to a young bartender. So many people think that making great cocktails is all it takes to own a bar but that’s only 10% of the big picture. I was saying put down your bar spoon and take a business course, do you know what P&L is? Have you ever managed the floor of a busy bar? A lot of people fail because they don’t know these basic things. The seminar was a reality check.
What has been your biggest mistake during your years in the business and more importantly, what did you learn from it? Some of the business partnerships I’ve entered into. It’s easy to get taken advantage of when you’re the talent and you’re dealing with the people with the money. There were certain things I didn’t look into as much as I should, which is why I did the So you want to open your own bar? talk. Knowing what you know now and having put in all the hard work over the years, would you prefer to be starting out now or then? Definitely then, there’s so much competition now. My timing was great, I was the first person to do lots of things like the craft cocktails and the training of particular people; people can come along and do it after, or do it better but I did it first and no-one can take that away from me. Which bars and bartenders should we be looking out for? There are so many to watch out for but off the top of my head I’ll say Thomas Waugh who worked with me at Clover Club and was nominated for Best New Bartender at Tales of the Cocktail this year. Also Sean Kenyon from Denver, another nominee for Best New Bartender at Tales. Caitlin Laman from Trick Dog in San Francisco who has just won Speed Rack US is also phenomenal. As for bars, I love the new bar at the NoMad in New York which just won Best American Restaurant Bar, again at Tales. They’ve spent $6million or something crazy on it, it’s a total game changer. What are your big plans for the next 12 months? I’ve just finished writing my book Craft Cocktail Party about craft cocktails to make at home which will be published next spring – that’s definitely the big thing. Other than that, I’ll be travelling to Scotland and London judging the World Class Global Finals this summer, then on to Hawaii for the Food & Wine Festival in September which I do every year. There’s also my consultancy work on the new Park Hyatt in New York and through the holidays I’ll be focusing on Clover Club, just being present in the bar. That will keep me busy! Follow Julie on Twitter.com@mixtressnyc
Clover Club, 210 Smith Street, Brooklyn, NY 11201. cloverclubny.com Flat Iron Lounge, 37 West 19th Street, (between 5th and 6th Avenue), Flat Iron District, Manhattan. flatironlounge.com
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IN-spire
Elizaveta Evdokimova, Delicatessen, Moscow Years behind the stick: three and a half What was it about the profession that appealed to you? I actually started my career as a waitress and after a year I decided that I wanted to create something by myself and became a barista. After a few years with coffee I chose alcohol as my next Everest. But only now I understand the main reason why I need to be a bartender: because of the people in our industry. We are all one big family that will be with me forever. What do you most enjoy about being behind the bar? For me it’s the mixing process and guests’ reaction to my creations. If he or she enjoys my drinks then I’m happy. Are there times when you are reminded that you are a female bartender rather than simply a bartender? Well it happens with me when my colleagues discuss hot chicks behind the bar! How do you describe your bartending style? Old-fashioned with a dash of kitchen and Russian soul.
Do you think female bartenders bring specific qualities to the bar? We bring beauty to the bar and actually I suppose we are less stressed out. And sometimes as women we bring a certain element of precision. What’s the best thing about being a female behind the bar? The best thing is my weakness – thank God I have my guys who don’t allow me to lift heavy things! And of course, we get a lot of attention from men. And the worst? Sometimes we need to work harder than men just to prove that we warrant being there. Do you think female bartenders are perceived differently in different countries? I don’t think so, girls are girls everywhere – I’ve met a lot of female bartenders and almost all of them have strong personalities and really good taste. What do you think you would have been doing if you hadn’t got into bar tending? I would definitely be a chef. Actually, I’m thinking of having a try at the kitchen right now – it’s so exciting and curious. I adore cooking for people. Do you have any tips for females thinking about entering the profession? Being a bartender is not just about being a beautiful woman behind the bar. It’s about being a good professional. So if you’re ready to work hard and if you want to be part of a huge, crazy family then do it – it’s wonderful!
What was it about the profession that appealed to you? I am a night and people person. Plus I love the direct feedback from my guests. What do you most enjoy about being behind the bar? Creating special moments for other people. Be it with amazing service, the perfect drink or just by lending them an ear.
Katrin Reitz, former owner at La Dee Da Bar, Bonn Years behind the stick: six
Are there times when you are reminded that you are a female bartender rather than simply a bartender? I am reminded every time I’m behind the bar and I am proud of it! Like in any job, I think the differences between males and females should be embraced. Females can be more witty and honest behind the bar, which means we are very good problem solvers. Also, I feel that female, even more than male bartenders, can recommend the perfect cocktail for a person; firstly, because our senses are better, and secondly because we are very good at reading peoples’ innermost desires.
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