THE COCKTAIL LOVERS
INGREDIENTS FOR MORE THAN GREAT DRINKS THECOCK TAILLOVERS.COM SPRING 2022
ISSUE 40
ISSN 12034567890
New horizons… Close up on some of the best new venues to open around the world post lockdown PAGE 26
New classics… Five bars adding fresh and clever riffs on the drinks we all know and love PAGE 38
New destination... How and why Mexico City is on top of the sip parade PAGE 54
Out with the old, in with the
‘NEW’ ISSUE
WELCOME
hello cocktail lover! When you publish a magazine, whether the subject matter is fashion or food, computers or cocktails, the question you ask yourself before getting started is, “What feels right? What’s the mood right now?” To our minds, this issue had to be about celebrating the new. Not the shiny new toy kind of new but our collective new appreciation of the simple things; things we previously took for granted and have now come to really value, like going out, travel, and entertaining friends and family at home. The following 60 or-so pages take in all of those elements. Kate Malczewski has the intel on some of the best new bars to visit (p. 26), Arturo Torres Landa shines a light on Mexico City and tells us why it’s the hottest cocktail destination in the world right now (p. 54), and drinks whiz Zoe Burgess answers the question that everyone wants to know when they’re making cocktails at home: when do you shake and when do you stir? (Answer on page 48). And there’s plenty more good stuff where that came from, including a refresh of this magazine. As regular readers will have noticed, we’ve taken the newness vibe and run with it, using it as an opportunity to update our look and feel. With 10 years of publishing The Cocktail Lovers under our belts, the time felt right. Please let us know what you think.
When I was 17 a college lecturer informed me that as children practically everything we encounter is new. But as we grow older fewer things would be new until, he concluded definitively, adulthood would consist largely of routine. I left that lecture a little sad but, more importantly, determined that life did not have to be that way. I would seek out the new wherever possible; people, places, culture, cuisine, all sorts of things – I’d always be on the lookout. So I’m delighted and excited for us to share this issue of The Cocktail Lovers magazine. The theme, ‘In with the new’, is our celebration of newness in many guises. I especially love that we could pose a few questions to psychologist Kevin Bennett on what it is about the new that stimulates us as human beings (p. 20). It’s also a joy to reimagine classic cocktails in our photo feature (p. 38) and turn a spotlight on faces that deserve a new audience (p. 24). And, of course, we’re looking in on new bars and enjoying some new drinks. Growing up doesn’t have to mean a life of routine. I hope you’ll enjoy joining us as we welcome in the new.
Ms S
MR G
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contents 07
32
Aperitivo News, views, reviews and how-tos to tickle your palate, including five ways with rhubarb, notable nibbles and an interview with Jenson Button
The low down Clinton Cawood looks at how the past two years has affected the way we’re drinking now
34 Cabinet reshuffle Rum and whisky, gin and vermouth – the new bottles to make room for in your cocktail cabinet
18
11 great reasons to be a cocktail lover
20
In the hotseat
22
Rising stars
38
The New Classics
46
The Cocktail Girl & Guy
48
Liquid intelligence
A Bellini, Boilermaker, Martini, G&T and Piña Colada – five classic cocktails reimagined for curious palates
She combines culture and cocktails at Maison Assouline and he’s on board for the fab offerings at The Lowback
Taking in bottles, cans, packaging, glassware and… sandals
Kevin Bennett PhD unravels the theme of this issue, the psychology of new
In this new column Zoe Burgess explains when to shake and stir
49
Bar stars, a tea specialist, herbalists, pisco makers and a bunch of grape witches – a few of the people to have on your radar going forward
Take 3 ingredients With Kat Stanley-Whyte bar manager at Uno Mas in Edinburgh
26
51
#Welove
52
Mains & Martinis
A snapshot of some of the places and faces we’ve encountered this season
Extolling the virtues of three very different, extremely delicious food and drink experiences at The Water House Project, Amaro and Doña
New horizons From Athens to Tokyo, London to Singapore, Kate Malczewski picks out the best new bars that have opened around the world post lockdown
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THE COCKTAIL LOVERS Issue 40
Spring 2022
Editors Sandrae Lawrence, & Gary Sharpen Creative Director Scott Bentley - Bentley Creative Sub editor Laura Hill Cover photography Rob Lawson Contributors Zoe Burgess, Clinton Cawood, Arturo Torres Landa, Kate Malczewski, Kat Stanley-Whyte Thanks to Kevin Bennett PhD, Philip Duff, Holly Graham, Alex Kratena, June Lawrence, Dré Masso, Lynnette Marrero, Kaitlyn Stewart
For all editorial and advertising enquiries, please contact: (+44) 020 7242 2546 mail@thecocktaillovers.com
09 Creating a stir Celebrate Cinco de Mayo on 5th May by mixing up a Mexican Negroni
Find us: TheCocktailLovers.com @cocktaillovers meet.thecocktaillovers @thecocktaillovers Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of The Cocktail Lovers Magazine without prior permission from the editors is strictly prohibited.
54
60
62
Mexology
Cold comfort
Parting shot
Arturo Torres Landa on the bars and their stars that have made Mexico City one of the coolest cocktail capitals in the world
Forget anything you may have thought about canned cocktails of old, these days they’re bloomin’ gorgeous. We select the perfect 10
Bring on the fizz! Recreate the glamour of Claridge’s Bar in your home by making a simple but elegant cocktail
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All details of bars featured in this issue were correct at time of going to press. Please see individual websites for up-to-date information. The Cocktail Lovers Magazine is printed in the UK by Stephens & George. Distributed by Gold Key Media
The Cocktail Lovers ISSN 2052-059X © 2022. Published by The Cocktail Lovers Ltd. London, UK
PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY
CONTRIBUTORS
KATE MALCZEWSKI
CLINTON CAWOOD
ZOE BURGESS
ARTURO TORRES LANDA
An Ohio-born, Londonbased writer and editor, Kate has worked at Food & Wine, Imbibe and The Spirits Business magazines. She now writes about cocktails, spirits and the bar industry for a number of publications.
Clinton has been writing about drinks since landing in the UK in 2006 from his native South Africa, having already put in time on both sides of the bar. He now covers all aspects of the industry for a variety of magazines, with a focus on spirits, cocktails and bars. He’s partial to all things agave, and dependent on good coffee.
Zoe is one of the UK’s most renowned flavour experts and founder of consultancy Atelier PIP. Passionate about pushing boundaries within the sensory- and flavour-led sectors to help improve consumers’ drinking experiences, she works with Heston Blumenthal’s creative team as well as clients such as Edrington UK, Soma and be-oom tea shop.
Arturo has been writing about the thrill of discovering new places through food and beverages for 10 years. He is co-editor of Food and Travel México, and has collaborated with lifestyle media outlets such as Marriott Bonvoy Traveler en Español, México Desconocido, Aire, Travesías, Bleu&Blanc and Sports Life.
Best new discovery? “A channel knife and a beautiful pair of Nick & Nora glasses – both have elevated Martinis at home considerably.”
Best new discovery? “Kae Tempest’s book On Connection. Her view on craft and connection is something we can all apply to our lives.”
New horizons: page 26
The low down: page 32
Best new discovery? “My latest new discovery is Sweeties, the incredibly groovy bar which recently opened in The Standard hotel in London. It’s a great spot to kick off a night out, with playful, wellness-inspired cocktails – and jaw-dropping views of the city.”
Liquid intelligence: page 48
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Mexology: page 54
Best new discovery? “Although I have a penchant for wine, I've recently fallen in love with bacanora, a Mexican liquor soon to be considered the ‘coolest kid’ on Mexico City’s bar scene.”
APERItiVO Opening up the palate for the newness ahead …
PAG E 8
PAG E 1 7
PAG E 1 8
PAG E 2 0
AMUSE-BOUCHE
6 QUESTIONS FOR JENSON BUTTON
11 REASONS TO BE A COCKTAIL LOVER
IN THE HOTSEAT
Getting the lowdown from the Formula One racing star on his latest passion: blending whisky
From a London bar with a new NFT menu, to drinking in colour for spring
Where we serve up bite-sized picks on the people, places, recipes and products to have on your radar this season
Kevin Bennett PhD unpicks the theme of this issue and explains the psychological effects of newness
PAG E 1 5
5 WAYS WITH... Rhubarb: infuse it, dry it, sweeten it, mix it and try it in a Frothy Boi at Sweeties
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amuse bouche NEWS, VIEWS, REVIEWS, INTERVIEWS & HOW-TOS
The people Yvonne Chan
“Yvonne is a young gun who I’ve had the pleasure of both working with and being served by,” says Holly Graham, Managing Editor, DRiNK Magazine, Asia. “We worked together at The Old Man Hong Kong when she was just 21. I was – and still am – impressed by her intelligence, knowledge, palate and hospitality skills. She then had a stint at Quinary, and is now the head bartender at ARGO at Four Seasons. Always humble and smiling, there’s an understated ferocity to this young lady. I adore her.” For more Faces to Watch, see page 22.
8
APERITIVO
CREATE A STIR! 5TH MAY
Cinco de Mayo Mexican Negroni 50ml Casamigos Blanco Tequila 50ml Campari 50ml sweet Italian vermouth Casamigos Mezcal, to rinse 1 large orange peel to garnish Method: Combine the tequila, Campari and vermouth in a mixing glass. Add ice and stir. Strain into a Rocks glass that has been rinsed with mezcal. Add one large block of ice and garnish with orange peel. 5TH JUNE
World Environment Day Grape Skin Martini 50ml Discarded Chardonnay Vodka 20ml Discarded Sweet Cascara Vermouth Apple peel-infused grapeseed oil to garnish
THINGS WE LOVE
Method: Stir ingredients over ice, and strain into a chilled Coupette or Martini glass. Garnish with apple peel-infused grapeseed oil.
Encased in porcelain with 18-carat gold detailing, this super-luxe candle sure does look the bomb – and with its medley of Italian grapefruit, Tuscan rosemary and mimosa, by golly, it smells incredible too. Created to evoke the spirit of what must be the most popular aperitif in the world, it’s our pick to bring on the feel-good vibes at any time of year. Available from negronidrop.com
9TH JULY
World Rum Day Cuban Crown 50ml Santiago de Cuba Añejo 11 Year Old 20ml lime juice 45ml salted honey syrup* Method: Shake the ingredients over ice and strain into a Coupette glass. (*How to make: mix two parts honey with one part water in a saucepan, add a large pinch of salt and heat until mixed. Allow to cool then pour into a bottle).
SEH WHAAT! An aquavit made in Wales? You’re kidding right? Er, no. Silver Circle Aquavit has all of the caraway bite and distinct characteristics of its Scandinavian cousin but it’s made in the Wye Valley. Try it as an alternative to your usual spirit and taste the difference it brings to the mix. Available from silvercircledistillery.com 9
APERITIVO
WHAT'S HOT RIGHT NOW?
COCKTAIL HACK #1 From Julie Reiner, New York’s Clover Club owner and Leyenda co-owner, and author of The Craft Cocktail Party – Amazing Drinks for Every Occasion:
“USE JAM IN YOUR DRINKS. WHEN YOU DON’T HAVE FRESH BERRIES TO HAND JAMS ARE A GREAT WAY TO ADD FRUIT FLAVOUR AND SWEETNESS TO YOUR COCKTAIL”
CULINARY COCKTAILS
Foodie flavours in a glass is definitely where cocktails are at. Olive, a deliciously moreish, deftly balanced blend of Olive Spirit, Rum Fire, Oregano and tonic, is a case in point. Find it on the ‘Grounded’ menu at Little Red Door, Paris. lrdparis.com
For more cocktail hacks from industry experts, tune into The Cocktail Lovers podcast.
book club Our pick of the best books to help you up your mixing game at home
The Oxford Companion to Spirits and Cocktails
Difford’s Guide to Cocktails, 16th Edition
This one is a biggie in all senses of the word: 10 years in the making, it comes in at an incredible 900 pages and counting with contributions from the great and good of bartending, cocktail history and writing. Trust us when we say that it’s packed with absolutely everything you need to know about the fascinating world of drinks. global.oup.com
We’re not saying that size is everything but this 2.2kg whopper sure earns its keep on your shelf. Positively bursting with all of the tips, tricks and know-how you’ll ever need in your cocktail-making arsenal including bartending basics to full-on geekery, plus a staggering 3,000 recipes to ensure you get the specs just-so, it’s a must-have for professionals and newbies alike. diffordsguide.com
Edited by David Wondrich with Noah Rothbaum
By Simon Difford
14
Mixed in Minutes: 50 Quick & Easy Cocktails to Make at Home By Dan Whiteside
Just getting started in this cocktail-making malarkey? Don’t have any equipment? Want to keep your recipes pared back and easy to follow? Dan’s your man! This little book takes in 50 simple recipes that anyone can replicate with minimal fuss, limited time and not a piece of cocktail kit in sight. Invaluable seasonal tips also available. littlebrown.co.uk
APERITIVO FIVE WAYS WITH…
RHUBARB ONE
FOUR
RHUBARB VODKA Ingredients: 500g rhubarb 300g caster sugar 1L vodka
RHUBARB SYRUP Ingredients: 500g rhubarb 125g caster sugar 125ml water
Method: 1. Chop the rhubarb stems into chunks and place in a sterilised 1.5L Kilner jar. 2. Pour the sugar and vodka into the jar, and seal. 3. Shake well and leave in a dark cupboard for at least one month, shaking the jar every now and then. 4. After one month, taste the vodka to check the flavour. If you prefer a stronger rhubarb taste, leave to infuse for an extra couple of weeks. 5. When you’ve reached the desired taste, strain the contents through a muslin cloth into sterilised Kilner bottles. Recipe courtesy of kilnerjar.co.uk
Method: 1. Chop the rhubarb and combine with the sugar and water in a heavy-bottomed saucepan. Bring to a boil, then simmer gently for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the fruit is soft and the liquid has slightly thickened. 2. Pour through a fine-mesh strainer into a large bowl. Set the residue aside to use as jam. 3. Pour the syrup into a sterilised bottle. Cover or cork the bottle and store in the fridge.
SWEETEN IT
INFUSE IT
FIVE
MIX IT BELLINI Use your rhubarb syrup in a Bellini. Add one part syrup to four parts sparkling wine, prosecco or Champagne.
TWO
DRY IT Cut your rhubarb into small pieces, place on a baking sheet and cook in the oven on the lowest heat until crisp (about 2-3 hours). Use to make tea blends.
RHUBARB G&T 50ml gin Juice of half a lime, plus a lime wedge to garnish 2 tbsp rhubarb syrup Tonic water, to taste
THREE
TRY IT SWEETIES, THE STANDARD, LONDON Order a Frothy Boi (pictured on page 7): Tanqueray London Dry Gin, lacto-rhubarb, bay leaf, pink salt and fermented fluffy oats. standardhotels.com
15
Method: Add the gin, lime juice and rhubarb syrup to a chilled Highball glass, half-filled with ice. Top with tonic water and stir gently to combine. Garnish with a lime wedge. RHUBARB SODA For a refreshing non-alcoholic drink, add one part rhubarb syrup to three parts soda.
APERITIVO
The Bottle REAL Chaynyy Kvas
There are many ways to support the people of Ukraine and buying a bottle of a kombucha is one of them. Based on the traditional Ukrainian fermented drink kvas, this limitededition, tea-based drink emits honey, tobacco and malty notes and a rich, woody aroma. Which is all good and fabulous but even better, all proceeds from each £20 bottle goes to The Red Cross Ukraine Crisis Appeal. Available from realsparklingtea.co.uk For more new bottles, see page 34.
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APERITIVO
was Johnnie Walker whisky. I was fortunate enough to work with its Master Blender and get to understand that side of things a bit more. The process really fascinated me and drew me in. More recently, a mutual friend introduced me to George [Koutsakis] and we both saw a real parallel between our passions – me, coachbuilding and George, whisky. We’ve spent the past two years working on the blend and I’m really proud with what we’ve come up with. For me, I’m still learning but it’s been really good fun.
THINGS WE LOVE
THREE
Coachbuilding and whisky, what do they have in common (apart from you of course)? There’s a real synergy between coachbuilding cars and blending whisky. So much precision is needed in both. To reinforce the message, we’ve incorporated elements of a coachbuild into the design, such as the indents in the bottle, which replicate the frame of the car, and our logo, which is a spinner and wheel nut.
Four
Are you worried that people will make a drinking and driving connection? Alcohol brands have sponsored motor racing for years. Obviously, I would never drive a car with a bottle of whisky in my hand. It’s about doing both things responsibly.
FIVE SIX QUESTIONS FOR…
JENSON BUTTON CO-CREATOR OF COACHBUILT WHISKY
ONE
What’s your earliest whisky memory? I was around 18 and let’s just say, it’s not a particularly good one! Fortunately, I’ve had a lot of positive whisky memories since!
TWO
Most people know you as a Formula One racing star and Sky Sports presenter. How and when did whisky enter the equation? When I worked with a race team for many years one of the big sponsors
17
Coachbuilt Whisky blends all five whisky-producing regions of Scotland. Were you aware of the distinct characteristics of each before working on the blend and, if so, which is the best expression of your personality and why? No. But having blended the whisky myself (with George’s instructions), I now have an understanding of why each expression has been included and what it adds to the overall blend.
SIX
What’s your favourite way to enjoy Coachbuilt Whisky and why? I couldn’t drink whisky neat before we developed Coachbuilt but now, since working on the blend, that’s the way I like to drink it. Every sip is enjoyment for me. Hear the full interview on The Cocktail Lovers podcast coachbuiltwhisky.com