Shavings Volume 6 Number 2 (March-April 1984)

SHAVINGS Newsletter of The Center for Wooden Boats - Vol. 6, N o . 2 - March-April, 1984 - $0.25

Boat Owner's Notebook OTTER AFTER EEL Story and Photos by Bruce Baker W h e n I w a s a s k e d t o w r i t e a b o u t Otter, o n e o f t h e basic q u e s t i o n s w a s w h e t h e r she w a s t h e " i d e a l p o c k e t - c r u i s i n g , shoal d r a f t trailerable b o a t . " W h e n m y w i f e , J u n e , a n d I h a d h e r built i n 1 9 8 1 , she w a s o n e of a h a n d f u l of d e s i g n s t h a t 1 thought w o u l d serve us well. After three seasons of use I c o n t i n u e to c o n s i d e r her an ideal b o a t for our purposes - day sailing and occasional o v e r n i g h t t r i p s . Otter is 18 1/2' on d e c k . A l t h o u g h her b o w s p r i t a n d b o o m k i n a d d a b o u t 5 1 / 2 ' , t h e y d o not interfere w i t h trailering a n d the former is easily r e m o v e d f o r s t o r a g e if n e c e s s a r y . S h e is 6' w i d e , w e i g h s a b o u t 1,100 p o u n d s , a n d d r a w s 10" or 12" w i t h the c e n t e r b o a r d c r a n k e d up, the r u d d e r d r a w n u p i n t o its b o x , a n d t h e tiller c l e a t e d off t o t h e m i z z e n h a l y a r d . A s her s h e l t e r e d a n c h o r a g e g o e s d r y o n a m i n u s s p r i n g t i d e , Otter g e n t l y r e s t s o n her 4 0 0 - p o u n d lead s h o e keel (less t h a n 2 1 / 2 " d e e p ) a n d o n e o f h e r t w o bilge skegs (each about 3' long a n d as deep as the keel).

W h e n d r y , Otter r e v e a l s her n i c e lines in a m a n n e r suggestive of craft of the English firths w h e r e t h e tide g o e s o u t in a similar f a s h i o n . S u c h shoal draft boats included the canoe-sterned y a w l s o f t h e last c e n t u r y , a n d i t w a s t h e s e w h i c h i n s p i r e d W i l l i a m G a r d e n t o c r e a t e his Eel d e s i g n , t h e first to a p p e a r in his 1977 b o o k e n t i t l e d Yacht Designs, published by International Marine Publishing C o m p a n y .

A s f o r p o w e r . O t t e r has 2 0 1 s q u a r e feet o f sail that i s easily h a n d l e d b y o n e a n d w h i c h i s e x t r e m e l y v e r s a t i l e . T h e b o a t i s v e r y well b a l a n c e d ( h a n d s off the tiller!) w i t h its s l i d i n g gunter main only, roller reefed jib a n d m i z z e n o n l y , o r w i t h all t h r e e .

I k n e w of t w o excellent boat shops in the N o r t h w e s t that were building f r o m G a r d e n ' s lines. O n e s p e c i a l i z e d i n c a r v e l p l a n k i n g a n d the other. Schooner Creek Boatworks of P o r t l a n d , O r e g o n , specialized in the c o l d m o l d i n g m e t h o d . 1 c o u l d see a d v a n t a g e s i n e a c h t e c h n i q u e yet d e c i d e d t o t r y t h e l a t t e r . O t t e r w a s o n e o f t h e first s u c h b o a t s that S c h o o n e r C r e e k h a d b u i l t . T h e y say t h e y ' r e b u i l d i n g t h e e l e v e n t h now. T h r e e are said to have c u d d y cabins; t w o h a v e f l u s h d e c k c a b i n s ; a n d t h e rest a r e o p e n a s originally designed.

For a u x i l i a r y p o w e r , I am currently using a J o h n s o n S a i l m a s t e r , a long-shaft 4 hp that h a n g s on a n i f t y little 6 p o u n d stainless a n d h a r d w o o d t r a n s o m b r a c k e t that d i s c o n n e c t s f r o m its d e c k plate w i t h o n e t h u m b s c r e w . A l t h o u g h O t t e r has r o w i n g a n d sculling o a r l o c k s , I find that I c a n m o v e h e r s l o w l y o n flat w a t e r w i t h a 6 ' c a n o e paddle using a J-stroke. S t r o n g c u r r e n t s here t e n d t o b e l o c a l i z e d a n d i f t h e r e ' s t h e slightest b r e e z e , O t t e r c a n b e sailed.

T h e h u l l i s 1 / 2 " t h i c k a n d built u p o f layers o f western red cedar and mahogany impregnated w i t h e p o x y a n d c o v e r e d on the outside w i t h a l a y e r o f fiberglass c l o t h a n d e p o x y . I r o u g h s k e t c h e d a c u d d y that I felt w o u l d be in k e e p i n g w i t h G a r d e n ' s d e s i g n , a n d S c h o o n e r C r e e k built it in characteristically g o o d f o r m . T h e r e are t w o very comfortable upholstered bunks, four s t o r a g e c o m p a r t m e n t s b e n e a t h , a self-bailing a n c h o r line b i n f o r w a r d , gear h a m m o c k s , a n d a b r a s s k e r o s e n e l a m p . I've c o n t e m p l a t e d a s m a l l h e a t i n g s t o v e , p r i m a r i l y t o d r y out c l o t h e s d u r i n g the day on e x t e n d e d trips.

T i m N o l a n ' s r e c e n t a r t i c l e i n Shavings o n his well equipped 16' Heather m a k e s me less r e l u c t a n t to sacrifice the s p a c e . I'm t h i n k i n g a " P a n s y " M k . V c h a r c o a l h e a t e r w o u l d fit w e l l a n d t h a t its 3,000 t o 5,000 B t u o u t p u t m i g h t b e just t h e t i c k e t . If I c a n t a l k m y s e l f o u t of Otter's r e a s s u r i n g 1 3 p o u n d D a n f o r t h a n c h o r , I'll s w i t c h over to a folding Norwegian anchor w h i c h w o u l d b e far m o r e c o n v e n i e n t t o s t o w .

W e u s e d O t t e r o n 6 6 d a y s h e r first y e a r a n d o n 4 8 e a c h o f t h e past t w o . S h e p l i e d her w a y o v e r 900 miles f r o m A n a c o r t e s . W a s h i n g t o n to Tee H a r b o r n o r t h o f J u n e a u , A l a s k a . S h e sailed handily in 25 k n o t gusts across Q u e e n C h a r l o t t e S o u n d u n d e r jib a n d m i z z e n , d e s p i t e a b r i s k c o m b i n a t i o n o f sea a n d s w e l l . I've h a d h e r o n a r u n w h e n t h e w i n d r e q u i r e d sailing w i t h o n l y b a r e p o l e s . T h e j o y w a s i n g l a n c i n g aft a t t h e c a t ' s - p a w s r e a c h i n g f o r t h e s t e r n a n d feeling t h e boat rise g r a c e f u l l y o u t of r e a c h w h i l e s c u d d i n g a l o n g at a couple of k n o t s to the shelter of a snug harbor O n o n e o c c a s i o n w h e n t h e m a i n sheet w a s n ' t e a s e d u p fast e n o u g h , o u r c e n t e r b o a r d w a s visible f r o m s h o r e a n d w e t o o k a little w a t e r o v e r t h e rail.

O t t e r p o p p e d r i g h t b a c k u p t h o u g h , i n her u s u a l forgiving manner. M o r e often, we have simply e n j o y e d O t t e r u n d e r full sail, s l i p p i n g a l o n g i n light air a t h u l l s p e e d , s l a p p i n g t h e r i p p l e s w i t h her b o w a s she g o e s , •

Small-Boat Cruising ISLAND-HOPPING IN BARKLEY SOUND, V A N C O U V E R ISLAND Editor's note: The author, John Moran of Delta, B.C., has logged more than 800 miles in his Whitebear skiff, "under oars onlynever a tow or a motor" in many lakes, rivers and the sea from Coos Bay to Barkley Sound.

Most of his adventures are on the nearby Fraser River.

By J o h n M o r a n My c o m p a n i o n . T r e n o r Tilley, a n d I a r r i v e d in Ucluelet on the Saturday morning of Labor Day w e e k e n d after trailering my 16 foot, two-place w o o d e n r o w i n g boat f r o m V i c t o r i a . O u r plan was to spend the following week camping in the B r o k e n I s l a n d s p a r t o f t h e Pacific R i m N a t i o n a l P a r k . T h e s e i s l a n d s lie o n t h e n o r t h s i d e i n t h e entrance to Barkley Sound.

T h e u s u a l d e p a r t u r e p o i n t for v i s i t o r s w h o d o not t r a v e l on t h e Lady Rose f r o m A l b e r n i is T o q u a r t B a y , a t t h e e n d o f a side r o a d f r o m t h e A l b e r n i Ucluelet highway. T h e R . C . M . P . officer a t U c l u e l e t t o l d u s that t h e r e w a s l i k e l i h o o d o f v a n d a l i s m t o v e h i c l e s left a t T o q u a r t B a y , s o w e d e c i d e d to start f r o m Ucluelet a n d leave the vehicle at a m o t e l . W h i l e we w e r e loading the boat o n S u n d a y m o r n i n g , a y o u n g w o m a n f r o m a boat in the m a r i n a s t o p p e d to ask about o u r plans. S h e replied to o u r explanations by saying, " W i t h no m o t o r , just t h o s e t h i n g s ! " w h i c h s h e d e s c r i b e d b y m a k i n g c i r c l e s i n f r o n t o f h e r b o d y w i t h her h a n d s .

T h e p u l l o u t o f t h e inlet w a s o u r test r u n f o r reserve b u o y a n c y as there w e r e the w a k e s of m a n y fishing boats on o u r b e a m , but none of t h e s e c a u s e d a n y p r o b l e m i n spite o f o u r h e a v y load. Near the m o u t h of the inlet, the o c e a n swells s t a r t e d t o b e felt but t h e y w e r e t o o l o n g a n d g e n t l e t o affect o u r r o w i n g . A s e v e r y t h i n g w a s satisf a c t o r y , w e m a d e t h e t u r n t o 090째 T r u e , t h e h e a d i n g f o r t h e B r o k e n I s l a n d s . T h i s put t h e 1 0 to 15 k n o t w i n d a n d 2 - 3 f o o t w a v e s d e a d a s t e r n .

W e t o o k 1 5 m i n u t e t u r n s r o w i n g but d i d n o t n e e d to change places because of the t w o r o w i n g

stations. T h r e e a n d a q u a r t e r hours after leaving U c l u e l e t we h a d c o v e r e d t h e 9 m i l e s to a designated campsite on Willis Island a n d f o u n d it unoccupied.

T h e r e w a s a c l e a r e d a r e a u n d e r t h e t r e e s that w o u l d a c c o m m o d a t e about f o u r tents a few s t e p s i n l a n d f r o m t h e s e a s o n a l l y p e r m a n e n t logs at the t o p of a shell b e a c h . O n e s h o r t p a t h led to a standard parks outhouse and another to a small s t r e a m trickling slowly to the beach. As the w a t e r was quite clear, we used it for w a s h i n g even t h o u g h we had t a k e n plenty of w a t e r w i t h us. T h e c a m p w a s i n s h a d e a l m o s t all d a y , w h e r e a s t h e beach was sunny for most of the a f t e r n o o n . T h e c u r v a t u r e of the island gave g o o d shelter f r o m the p r e v a i l i n g w e s t e r l i e s a n d t h e seas. T h e v i e w w a s towards the n o r t h w e s t w h e r e the V a n c o u v e r I s l a n d m o u n t a i n s g e n e r a t e d s p e c t a c u l a r piles o f c u m u l u s clouds. Exploring on foot was possible o n l y u p t o a b o u t half tide b e c a u s e t h e e x t r e m e l y dense u n d e r b r u s h g r e w d o w n almost to the high w a t e r line, o r else s t e e p r o c k s a n d gullies m a d e progress impossible. T h e inter-tidal areas, again, were f o r m e d of steep r o c k s or fields of sharp, broken boulders, some of which were very s l i p p e r y . S h e l l f i s h w e r e p l e n t i f u l but h a r v e s t i n g o f all b i v a l v e s w a s b a n n e d for fear o f p a r a l y t i c shellfish p o i s o n i n g . A l t h o u g h w e d i d n o t t r y f i s h i n g , n e i g h b o r s w h o a r r i v e d a f e w d a y s later b r o u g h t i n a half d o z e n r o c k f i s h w h i c h w e r e m a d e i n t o a h u g e p o t of f i s h s o u p .

M o n d a y m o r n i n g appeared t o have g o o d conditions for visiting the reef that claimed the

Vanleen w h e n s h e w a s a t t e m p t i n g t o e n t e r J u a n de Fuca Strait w i t h a cargo of Japanese cars.

T h e r e w a s n o t r a c e o f her r e m a i n s e v e n t h o u g h we w e r e very close to the r o c k s that w e r e just s h o w i n g a b o v e w a t e r . O n t w o p r e v i o u s visits t o this r e e f I h a d s e e n a l m o s t t h e w h o l e s t e r n , first w i t h s u p e r s t r u c t u r e a n d f u n n e l , a n d later o n l y t h e hull. W e w e n t o u t f a r t h e r t o w a t c h t h e o c e a n swells b r e a k i n g o v e r a m o r e e x p o s e d reef but soon turned back to more sheltered waters when Trenor's stomach started to complain. We s t o p p e d for lunch at the G i l b e r t Island campsite w h i c h w a s t h e best o f all w e s a w .

Tuesday's trip was a short r o w around the islands t o t h e n o r t h o f o u r c a m p s i t e . A s t r o n g b r e e z e f u n n e l l i n g b e t w e e n islands gave u s a g o o d , h a r d pull h o m e . T h i s w a s t h e o n l y t i m e that w e u s e d all t w o m a n p o w e r e v e n t h o u g h p r o g r e s s w a s reasonable with one rowing.

C o n d i t i o n s w e r e ideal again o n W e d n e s d a y m o r n i n g , s o w e set o u t f o r t h e s o u t h w e s t c o r n e r o f t h e islands w h e r e a c o l o n y o f a b o u t 200 sea lions h a d t a k e n u p s u m m e r r e s i d e n c e . T h e w i n d w a s a l m o s t c a l m b u t the seas w e r e r u n n i n g a b o u t 4 to 5 feet, s u c h t h a t d i s t a n t islands d i s a p p e a r e d w h e n w e w e r e i n t h e t r o u g h s . A c o u p l e o f off l y i n g r o c k s that w e r e j u s t a w a s h c a u s e d s o m e s p e c t a c u l a r b r e a k i n g seas o n o n e side w h i l e t h e s u r f w a s c l i m b i n g t h e sea l i o n r o c k s o n t h e o t h e r .

L a r g e b a n k s o f c u m u l u s c l o u d s t o t h e east c o m p l e m e n t e d the spray a n d foam on the r o c k s .

Trenor's stomach was behaving so there was time t o w a i t f o r t h e biggest w a v e s f o r o u r p i c t u r e s .

A l t h o u g h t h e lions m a d e p l e n t y o f n o i s e , t h e y d i d not seem to be disturbed by o u r close p r o x i m i t y .

A f e w o c c a s i o n a l pulls k e p t us o u t of t h e w o r s t of t h e b a c k w a s h a n d w e b o t h felt c o m f o r t a b l e w i t h the situation. W h i l e we w e r e on the way b a c k , the park ranger went by in the opposite direction w i t h his i n f l a t a b l e t h r o w i n g m u c h s p r a y . W e v i s i t e d h i m the next day. T h e C l a r k e Island c a m p s i t e w a s t h e l o c a t i o n c h o s e n for a l u n c h b r e a k on a fine sandy beach. A g r o u p of k a y a k e r s o c c u p i e d a small cabin that was o n c e privately o w n e d . O u r r o u t e back to Willis Island t o o k us to the west of m o s t of the i n t e r v e n i n g islands. H o w e v e r , we had q u i t e a lot o f f u n p i c k i n g o u r w a y a m o n g m a n y b o u l d e r s in a c h a n n e l t h a t d r i e s at l o w w a t e r .

O n t h e w a y t o visit t h e r a n g e r ' s h e a d q u a r t e r s a t the eastern c o r n e r of the islands, we decided to e x p l o r e a body of water that was almost enclosed b y J a r v i s a n d J a q u e s Islands. W e d i d n ' t e x p e c t t o b e able t o get t h r o u g h t h e s h a l l o w e n t r a n c e o n t h e direct route so we went the l o n g w a y a r o u n d to use a d e e p e r c h a n n e l . T h i s l a g o o n , c o n t a i n i n g several islands, was s u r r o u n d e d by dense d a r k forest t h a t e x c l u d e d m o s t o f t h e d a y ' s s u n m a k i n g it d i m , quiet a n d mysterious. T h e next stop w a s at the ranger's floathouse m o o r e d close to Nettle Island. He was at h o m e doing the inevitable paperwork demanded of government employees b u t t o o k a b r e a k t o chat w i t h u s a n d g o f o r a s h o r t r o w w i t h m e . T h i s w a s t h e first r o w i n g boat that

h e h a d seen i n t h e p a r k ; e v e r y o n e else u s e d c a n o e s o r k a y a k s . H e said t h a t t h e p a r k h a d b e e n heavily u s e d all s u m m e r , especially i n A u g u s t .

T h e r a n g e r s u g g e s t e d t h a t w e leave f o r U c l u e l e t v e r y early on Saturday before the usual westerly w i n d gained s t r e n g t h . We ate a hurried lunch at G i b r a l t a r I s l a n d just i n s h o r e f r o m t h e f l o a t a t w h i c h Lady Rose e x c h a n g e s c a n o e a n d k a y a k parties. W i n d a n d rain w e r e threatening s o w e w i s h e d t o h e a d b a c k t o o u r c a m p q u i c k l y but w e r e c e i v e d o n l y a brief light s h o w e r a n d f r e s h b r e e z e in s o m e of the channels. F o r the s e c o n d time we met a friendly A m e r i c a n couple in their folding kayak and they took pictures of us with our cameras. Trenor spotted something swimming in a n a r r o w channel and w h e n we came close we decided that it w a s a m i n k . A f t e r unwillingly posing for pictures, the m i n k reversed course for a s h o r t s w i m t o its s t a r t i n g p o i n t .

F r i d a y w a s p l a n n e d as a rest p e r i o d f o r Saturday's r e t u r n to Ucluelet so we negotiated a c o u p l e o f d r y i n g c h a n n e l s t o inspect t h e T u r r e t I s l a n d c a m p s i t e but d i d n o t c h o o s e t o l a n d o n t h e lee s h o r e . A f t e r g e t t i n g b a c k t o o u r c a m p , w e p u l l e d t h e b o a t u p o n the logs f o r t h e night a n d started to plan the r e t u r n trip. A decision was m a d e t o leave v e r y s o o n a s h e a v y c l o u d w a s b u i l d i n g o u t to the w e s t . A light e a s t e r l y , falling tide a n d a d e q u a t e d a y l i g h t c a u s e d a s c r a m b l e t o b r e a k c a m p a n d get u n d e r w a y . W e gave o u r surplus water to new neighbors in exchange for a lift d o w n t h e b e a c h . T h e f o l l o w i n g w i n d i n c r e a s e d to make a rough patch over Sargison Bank. All w e n t w e l l a n d i n just u n d e r 3 h o u r s w e w e r e i n U c l u e l e t a s d a r k n e s s w a s falling. T h e car d o o r h a d just b e e n c l o s e d o n t h e last l o a d w h e n t h e rain started but being strange creatures we h e a d e d i m m e d i a t e l y for a n artificial s h o w e r , t h e n supper.

A tour of L o n g Beach and Tofino in rain and sun o c c u p i e d us for Saturday. Several kayakers in white-water boats w e r e playing in the surf at L o n g B e a c h , g e t t i n g i n s o m e fast r u n s a n d a f e w spills.

O u r f o o d , c o o k e d b y T r e n o r o n t w o single b u r n e r p r e s s u r e gasoline s t o v e s , w a s p l a i n a n d s i m p l e . B r e a k f a s t w a s fruit j u i c e a n d eggs o r h o t c e r e a l w i t h toast a n d a hot d r i n k . W e c a r r i e d s a n d w i c h e s , p a c k a g e d s o u p , fruit a n d h o t c h o c o l a t e m i x for l u n c h w h i c h was e a t e n a s h o r e w h e r e i t w a s safe t o use a s t o v e t o b o i l w a t e r .

Magic Pantry or canned meats supplemented by c a n n e d v e g e t a b l e s a n d fruit o r p u d d i n g s p r o v i d e d the m a i n part of supper.

O n e night a small creature c h e w e d t h r o u g h a s a c k a n d plastic b a g t o eat a large p a r t o f o u r s u p p l y o f trail m i x .

Portable fitted racks kept c a n n e d goods u n d e r c o n t r o l i n t h e bilge a n d r a i s e d o t h e r gear a b o v e a n y w a t e r that m i g h t h a v e a c c u m u l a t e d . B l o c k s o f foam under the t h w a r t s c o m b i n e d w i t h the hull's b u o y a n c y w e r e adequate to support the heavy goods should a capsize occur. I had fitted a d i a p h r a g m p u m p that w a s o p e r a b l e f r o m e i t h e r inside o r o u t s i d e t h e b o a t t o a i d i n r e m o v i n g e x c e s s w a t e r b e f o r e r e - e n t e r i n g in case of a s w a m p i n g . W e c a r r i e d all o f t h e u s u a l safety a n d survival equipment and lashed d o w n most of o u r gear s o t h a t little w o u l d b e lost i f w e c a p s i z e d .

T h e west c o a s t is quite different f r o m the G u l f I s l a n d w a t e r s a n d has a s t r o n g a p p e a l i n its c o o l , rugged and quickly changing beauty. Perhaps the f a s c i n a t i o n i s i n the r o m a n c e o f t h e m i s t y isles a n d the clever Native people w h o flourished under what we consider to be hardship and adversity.

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Rowing Northwest Rivers, Part II T H E SAMMAMISH, GREEN AND MERCER S L O U G H

By Dave C o x This time we'll take y o u d o w n s o m e highly c i v i l i z e d r i v e r s . E a c h has b e e n c o m p l e t e l y m a d e o v e r t h r o u g h h u m a n e n t e r p r i s e , t o the p o i n t w h e r e they w o u l d be unrecognized by a time traveler f r o m only a few decades ago. T h o u g h t a m e d a n d c o n t r o l l e d , t h e y still o f f e r o p p o r t u nities to those w i t h a m o d i c u m of a d v e n t u r o u s spirit.

T h e S a m m a m i s h was my favorite in younger d a y s . T w e n t y y e a r s a g o this w a s a n u n c o n t r o l l e d s t r e a m full o f s n a g s , g r a v e l b a r s a n d t w i s t y t u r n s . I n e v e r m a n a g e d a r u n u p i t i n m y o u t b o a r d boat w i t h o u t h i t t i n g s o m e t h i n g , b u t this just a d d e d spice.

T o d a y , t h e C o r p s o f E n g i n e e r s has e v e r y t h i n g u n d e r c o n t r o l . T h e y d r e d g e d its b o t t o m , s t r a i g h t e n e d a n d s h o r e d u p its b a n k s a n d o t h e r w i s e c o n v e r t e d the S a m m a m i s h into a placid slough.

G o n e a r e the d a y s o f f l o a t i n g o v e r p a s t u r e s d u r i n g the flood season.

Y o u c a n n o l o n g e r float t h e l e n g t h o f t h e S a m m a m i s h . A c o n t r o l d a m n e a r its L a k e S a m m a m i s h o r i g i n s t o p s t h a t . B e s t t o begin a t a m u d d y p a r k i n g lot j u s t s o u t h o f t h e e n t r a n c e t o M a r y m o o r P a r k near R e d m o n d . R i v e r a c c e s s i s b y sliding t h e b o a t d o w n a n o f t e n - m u d d y b a n k this s p o t b e i n g o f i n t e r e s t o n l y t o o w n e r s o f l i g h t e r boats.

N o s u r p r i s e s a r e likely o n c e o n t h e r i v e r . T h e c u r r e n t is m o d e r a t e a n d steady, w i t h few tight t u r n s . D r i f t o r w o r k a t it, a s y o u w i s h . T h e m o s t i n t e r e s t i n g f e a t u r e f o r a n u m b e r of m i l e s is t h e pedestrian path on the right b a n k , w h i c h often provides a fascinating glimpse into the h u m a n c o n d i t i o n . ( E q u a l l y o f t e n y o u will b e t h e s u b j e c t o f s h o r e b o u n d e x a m i n a t i o n , s o b e c h e e r f u l a n d tell y o u r inquisitors about the C e n t e r for W o o d e n Boats.)

A b o u t 6 miles d o w n s t r e a m the Ste. Michelle W i n e r y a p p e a r s o n t h e left. I u s e t h e t e r m " a p p e a r s " loosely, as I have never s p o t t e d it f r o m t h e b o a t . . . b u t I k n o w it's t h e r e . (If y o u p l a n t o s t o p a t t h e w i n e r y for a p i c n i c , y o u ' l l h a v e t o s c o u t the location in advance, or c l i m b the bank often o n c e in the area.)

Seven miles f r o m the start y o u r e a c h W o o d i n ville. If r e f r e s h m e n t s a r e r u n n i n g l o w , t h e r e is a tavern near the bridge. Leaving t o w n , the I n t e r s t a t e 405 i n t e r c h a n g e i s s o o n r e a c h e d . T h e n it's a s h o r t r u n t o B o t h e l l , w h i c h i s a s t o p w o r t h making.

T h e c i t y o f B o t h e l l (10 m i l e s f r o m t h e s t a r t ) has c r e a t e d a w a t e r f r o n t p a r k w i t h a l a r g e float to tie t o , a picnic area a n d an attractive w o o d e n suspension bridge spanning the river. O t h e r attractions include historic buildings a n d not-sohistoric r e s t r o o m s .

T h e last t h r e e m i l e s a r e t h e b e s t . H o u s e s built right d o w n to the w a t e r . . . a small m a r i n a t u c k e d b e h i n d t h e r i g h t b a n k . . . a golf c o u r s e - t h e r e ' s p l e n t y t o see. T h e g r e e n hills r i s i n g a b o v e t h e r i v e r m o r e t h a n c o m p e n s a t e for highway noise.

A launching r a m p at K e n m o r e , just short of the r i v e r m o u t h , is a logical t a k e - o u t s p o t .

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N o t long ago the G r e e n River w a s an unruly stretch of water. Y e a r after year it w o u l d flood the K e n t Valley, driving residents and livestock to higher g r o u n d , leaving an awful mess.

But the H o w a r d H a n s o n D a m a n d considerable d r e d g i n g have t a m e d the G r e e n . N o w

f l a t w a t e r f r o m A u b u r n o n d o w n , t h e r i v e r i s safe i f a p p r o a c h e d w i t h r e s p e c t . ( D o n ' t get o n i t w h e n it's r u n n i n g h i g h . I n a d d i t i o n t o t h e n o r m a l f l o o d w a t e r hazards, the G r e e n offers a special dilemma: a bridge near S o u t h c e n t e r w i t h only a foot or t w o of clearance at high water!)

T h e r e are no launching r a m p s on the G r e e n .

Slithering y o u r boat d o w n banks is the o r d e r of the day. Finding put-in a n d take-out points m a y require some scouting.

I h a v e n ' t yet t r a v e r s e d t h e 5 m i l e s b e t w e e n A u b u r n a n d K e n t , b u t a m t o l d t h a t it's f l a t w a t e r all t h e w a y . F r o m K e n t t o s a l t w a t e r i s d e f i n i t e l y free o f riffles a n d r a p i d s .

The Kent-Des Moines highway crosses the river 4 1/2 miles d o w n r i v e r f r o m K e n t . S o u t h c e n t e r is a n o t h e r 8 1/2 m i l e s . T h e r e is a n i c e little p a r k on t h e r i v e r east o f S o u t h c e n t e r , w h i c h m a k e s a p l e a s a n t s t o p . S h o r t l y a f t e r this c o m e s I n t e r s t a t e 405, a n d d o w n r i v e r f r o m here the G r e e n heads east, then loops back west, passing u n d e r a bridge w h i c h provides access to a city of T u k w i l a p a r k , w h e r e it's p o s s i b l e t o t a k e - o u t .

S i x m i l e s f r o m 405 t h e D u w a m i s h i n d u s t r i a l area is r e a c h e d . A n o t h e r 6 1/2 miles a n d y o u ' r e on E l l i o t t B a y . ( R e m e m b e r , y o u m u s t t a k e tides i n t o c o n s i d e r a t i o n f o r t h e last 10 or 12 miles.) * * * Mercer Slough is wholly different f r o m any p l a c e I've v i s i t e d . It's o n e o f B e l l e v u e ' s b e s t - k e p t s e c r e t s . . . a n d i t isn't e v e n t h e o r i g i n a l s l o u g h it's a n i r r i g a t i o n c a n a l .

B e f o r e 1916, t h e s l o u g h w a s p r o b a b l y w i d e r and ventured farther inland. Entering L a k e W a s h i n g t o n at about the same spot (now right b e l o w I n t e r s t a t e 90) i t r a n n o r t h t o t h e site o f t h e W i l b u r t o n l o g g i n g c a m p , n e a r the p r e s e n t B e l l e v u e l i b r a r y a n d c i t y hall. W i l b u r t o n w a s a steamboat stop and on Saturday nights loggers a n d s e t t l e r s w o u l d r o w b o a t s f r o m a s far a w a y a s M e y d e n b a u e r Bay to enjoy dances.

I n 1916 t h e level o f L a k e W a s h i n g t o n w a s l o w e r e d 7 to 9 feet ( n o b o d y is s u r e e x a c t l y h o w far) a n d M e r c e r S l o u g h largely c e a s e d t o e x i s t .

A r e a f a r m e r s d r e d g e d a n i r r i g a t i o n c a n a l i n its c o u r s e a n d this i s a b o u t w h a t w e see t o d a y .

T h e r e is a launching r a m p on the slough near 1-90. T a k e t h e B e l l e v u e W a y e x i t f r o m I-90 a n d t u r n r i g h t a t t h e first p o s s i b l e p l a c e ( t h e r e i s n o sign o r m a r k e r ) . T h e r a m p i s r a t h e r p o o r , b u t it's usable. No p o w e r boats are allowed n o r t h of the ramp.

F r o m the r a m p y o u can t u r n right a n d r e a c h L a k e W a s h i n g t o n in a few h u n d r e d y a r d s , or s w i n g left a n d h e a d for d o w n t o w n B e l l e v u e .

H e a d i n g n o r t h - a s s u m i n g y o u w e n t left - y o u will pass f a r m s a n d a n u n d e v e l o p e d m a r s h ( e x c e p t f o r a f e w trails) b e l o n g i n g t o t h e c i t y o f B e l l e v u e . T h e w h o l e a r e a is a d e e p peat b o g , d i s c o u r a g i n g "improvement."

T h e s l o u g h r u n s s t r a i g h t f o r half a m i l e o r s o . t h e n a c h a n n e l a p p e a r s o n the left. T h i s s p o t has b e c o m e quite shallow in recent years a n d m a y be difficult w h e n t h e l a k e is l o w . R e g a r d l e s s of your choice of courses here, you will c i r c u m n a v i g a t e the B e l l e f i e l d O f f i c e p a r k . T h e n y o u c a n d e c i d e t o c i r c u m n a v i g a t e again o r h e a d b a c k t o w a r d the lake.

It's o n l y a f e w m i l e s at best - so w h y b o t h e r t a k i n g this t r i p ? D o i t f o r t h e c h a n c e t o see q u i t e a variety of birds, b o t h aquatic and land based. Or f o r a c h a n c e t o see t h e s m a l l d e e r w h i c h live near t h e s l o u g h . O r f o r a n o p p o r t u n i t y t o see l a r g e c a r p . D o i t for t h e s t r a n g e s e n s a t i o n o f f l o a t i n g p e a c e f u l l y a l o n g w h i l e k n o w i n g a l a r g e c i t y is just o v e r the b a n k s . A n d d o i t o f t e n ! •

MISUNDERSTANDING WOODEN BOATS

By Chas D o w d T o d a y ' s w o r l d s e e m s t o b e o n e f r a n t i c q u e s t for understanding. Diplomats z o o m from summit to summit, trying to cobble together international understandings. C o u p l e s agonize over " u n d e r standing their relationship." Psychotherapists strive to help patients understand themselves.

Parents try to u n d e r s t a n d their teenagers. F r o m t h i s h u n t for u n d e r s t a n d i n g , w e w o o d e n b o a t e r s m u s t s t a n d a l o o f . T h r o u g h n o fault o f o u r o w n , n o b o d y , i t s e e m s , will e v e r u n d e r s t a n d u s .

S t r o k e O a r and I never thought we were doing anything incomprehensible when we bought our r o w b o a t B u t S k i p l o o k e d inside a n d s a i d that there "didn't seem to be a lotta space to s t o w stuff." Skip spends s u m m e r s hiking the O l y m p i c s , living out of a 60-pound b a c k p a c k . A r t h u r , w h o r u n s in m a r a t h o n s several times a year, v o l u n l e e r e d that r o w i n g l o o k e d l i k e " a n a w f u l lot o f w o r k . " Battenburg, w h o maintains a crabgrass f r e e l a w n a n d w h i t e g r a v e l d r i v e w a y , said that h e couldn't handle the upkeep. Jenner, w h o heats a four b e d r o o m house with three woodstoves, asked w h y we didn't take advantage of advances i n m o d e r n t e c h n o l o g y . T o c a p i t all o f f , Philomena, a telephone lineperson w h o pumps i r o n a n d d e s t r o y s m y o t h e r w i s e flawless 1 9 4 0 s f o x t r o t b y her i n s i s t e n c e o n l e a d i n g , a s k e d S t r o k e O a r if she thought r o w i n g was acceptably "feminine."

Boaters don't seem to understand us any belter. I call to m i n d an early springtime r o w to Blake Island. We were in m i d S o u n d , m o v i n g nicely, soaking up the w e l c o m e s u n . Far astern, I s a w .I r a p i d l y approaching sedan cruiser complete with tuna tower and enough radio aerials for a Soviet i n t e l l i g e n c e t r a w l e r . A s i t d r e w nearer it altered course to c o m e alongside, s l a c k e n i n g its s p e e d . A p p a r e n t l y , t h e c a p t a i n w a n t e d to admire our boat. Naturally. O s t e n t a t i o u s l y a v o i d i n g a n y d i s p l a y of i n t e r e s t , I r a p i d l y t h o u g h t o v e r t h e list o f its v i r t u e s : o a k r i b s , s p r u c e p l a n k i n g , locust brightwork. (He'll p r o b a b l y have t o a s k w h a t locust w o o d is, I c h o r t l e d . ) T h e s e a b o r n e h i g h rise w a l l o w e d t o a s t o p . I t s skipper leaned over the bridge c o a m i n g , r e m o v e d t h e s t u m p o f his c i g a r , p i c k e d u p his h a n d h e l d loudhailer and shouted d o w n , " A R E Y O U K I D S ALL RIGHT??"

L a t e r that s u m m e r w e w e r e s t r e t c h e d o u t i n t h e d r i f t w o o d of a lovely San J u a n b e a c h , easing the l i g h t n e s s o f a 2 5 m i l e pull f r o m a n o t h e r S a n J u a n beach. T w o prosperous-looking vacationers walking along the shore stopped to look at our boat O b v i o u s l y t h e y h a d q u e s t i o n s b e c a u s e t h e y kept l o o k i n g f r o m our w h e r r y to the 30 or 40 extravagant yachts anchored offshore.

I wandered down. " N i c e . " said t h e m a l e half o f t h e s k e t c h . I explained about the oak ribs, the s p r u c e p l a n k s , the locust w o o d , the craftsmanship. " W h i c h i s y o u r b o a t ? " said his w i f e , g e s t u r i n g a t the nearby s q u a d r o n of the well heeled. " T h i s is i t , " I r e p l i e d .

H u b b y ' s face t o o k o n t h e l o o k o f G l a c i e r B a y i n January. " Y o u r o w e d here? F r o m w h e r e ? " I t o l d h i m . A s u d d e n s n o w fell o n G l a c i e r B a y . " T h a t y o u n g w o m a n r o w e d all t h a t w a y ? I t w a s p r e t t y i m p r e s s i v e . I a d m i t t e d . I'm a l w a y s eager t o discuss S t r o k e O a r ' s many g o o d points, w h i c h i n c l u d e a d e g r e e in law a n d a m e t r o n o m e in h e r head w h i c h makes ours the most evenly-stroked boat on the S o u n d . " I n m y d a y . " i n t e r r u p t e d his w i f e , " n o lady w o u l d have ever thought of d o i n g s o m e t h i n g like that!" Pregnant pause.

"And n o gentleman w o u l d have asked her t o ! "

Most poignant was the retired codfisherman w e m e t a t t h e B a l l a r d boat l a u n c h . H e u n d e r s t o o d about w o o d boats a n d c o p p e r fastenings; about v a r n i s h a n d oil b a s e d paint a n d t h e j o y o f h e m p f e n d e r s in p l a c e of t h e u s u a l air filled plastic sausages i n d e c o r a t o r c o l o r s . H e d i d n ' t a s k d u m b questions about the seaworthiness of small o p e n boats, having drifted for seven days on the A t l a n t i c in a 14-foot d o r y .

T h e only thing he couldn't understand was the rowing. H e ' d evidently decided that w h e n we finished paying for the boat, we didn't have e n o u g h left t o b u y a n o u t b o a r d . N o t a n o i s y gas o u t b o a r d , o f c o u r s e , but a q u i e t e l e c t r i c . W h i l e w e were r o w i n g he'd go up to Jacobsen Marine and r a n s a c k t h e i r l i t e r a t u r e r a c k s for b r o c h u r e s o n electric o u t b o a r d s , presenting t h e m to us w h e n w e c a m e b a c k . O n c e , w h e n h e m i s s e d u s for a m o n t h , he told us of an electric he saw in the want a d s . " C o u l d h a v e got her for a s o n g , " h e s a i d , r u e f u l l y s h a k i n g his h e a d . " Y u s t a s o n g . " The climax came one day w h e n he told me in c o n f i d e n c e that a fishing b u d d y h a d just d i e d , leaving his w i d o w w i t h a n e l e c t r i c o u t b o a r d . " W e g o u p t o her p l a c e , b u y i t for a l m o s t n o t h i n g , " h e whispered while Stroke O a r was up at the truck. " D o n ' t tell y o u v i f e , she y u s t w o r r y . " W e lived i n fear o f t h e d a y h e ' d s h o w u p w i t h o n e a s a gift. W e were being haunted by a Scandinavian Flying D u t c h m a n . W e h a v e n ' t s e e n h i m yet this year a n d I hope n o t h i n g h a p p e n e d to h i m . I h o p e , almost as f e r v e n t l y , t h a t w e n e v e r see h i m a g a i n .

W e l l , those kinds of misunderstandings are p r e t t y h a r m l e s s . T h e o n e s that h u r t a r e t h o s e t h a t c o n d e m n y o u to being an unwilling partner to i m p l i e d slights t o o n e ' s b o a t , lifestyle a n d selfimage.

I r e m e m b e r o n e p a r t i c u l a r l y galling o c c a s i o n when bad weather forced us into a marina w h e r e the m o o r a g e r a t e s l o o k e d like t h e p a y m e n t schedule of Brazil's national debt. S o m e quick c a l c u l a t i o n s s h o w e d t h a t s e t t l i n g t h e m a r i n a ' s bill w o u l d shorten our bare bones vacation by about two days. The dockmaster was involved in the nautical task of g r o o m i n g a small poodle w i t h pink b o w s o n its ears a n d I h a d a h a r d t i m e c a t c h i n g his attention. " I s this w h e r e I p a y f o r m o o r a g e ? " I a s k e d , l o o k i n g a t t h e signs that said " N o C h e c k s . C a s h Only." " S u r e , " h e said. " W h a t b o a t ? " I p o i n t e d t o o u r l o v e l y little w h e r r y b o b b i n g i n the r e m n a n t s o f t h e f u r y r a g i n g just b e y o n d t h e breakwater. " O h , j u s t tie i t u p t o t h e float s o m e w h e r e . W e don't charge moorage on d i n g h i e s . . . " D i s g u s t r o i l e d i n m e like s e a s i c k n e s s a n d I g a t h e r e d m y b r e a t h f o r a blast o f v i t u p e r a t i o n fueled by the s t o r m , f r u s t r a t i o n , p e n u r y a n d the stupidity a n d insensitivity of anyone w h o c o u l d m i s t a k e o u r boat f o r a d i n g h y . I b e c a m e a w a r e of a sharp pain in my ankle w h e r e S t r o k e O a r was k i c k i n g m e . S h e w a s w e a r i n g t h e face t h a t s a i d , i n no uncertain terms, "Let Your Attorney Handle This."

" A h , y e s , " she s a i d s w e e t l y , " g o o d p o l i c y .

W h e r e d i d y o u say t h e d i n g h i e s t i e d u p ? " W h e n S t r o k e O a r went u p t o the g r o c e r y t o b u y h o t d o g s , I c r e p t d o w n t h e float t o o u r b o a t and made a shame-faced a t t e m p t at apology. She d i d n ' t e x a c t l y t u r n her t r a n s o m o n m e , b u t she d i d n ' t act like she u n d e r s t o o d m e .

It

figures,

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CRUISING WITH G I N N Y

By John Hartsock G i n n y w a s n o t t h r i l l e d a t t h e idea o f s p e n d i n g her v a c a t i o n i n a f o u r t e e n f o o t , w o o d e n r o w b o a t .

S o u t h e r n girls a r e n o t r a i s e d t h a t w a y . H o w e v e r , I had devised a plan she c o u l d not refuse. We w o u l d s p e n d t h e first n i g h t i n D e e r H a r b o r M a r i n a at the west e n d of O r c a s Island in the San Juans a n d leave t h e c a r t h e r e . T h e n e x t d a y w e w o u l d r o w t h e eight m i l e s t o R e i d H a r b o r S t a t e P a r k o n S t u a r t Island a n d c a m p . G i n n y w a s d e v e l o p i n g i n t o a g o o d o a r s w o m a n a n d a r o w o f this d i s t a n c e should be no problem.

T h e n e x t d a y - a n d this w a s t h e c l i n c h e r we would r o w to Roche Harbor and spend the n i g h t i n a suite a t t h e r e s o r t t h e r e . T h e t h i r d d a y w e ' d r o w b a c k t o D e e r H a r b o r a n d s p e n d t h e final night i n t h e m a r i n a . F o u r n i g h t s o u t a n d o n l y o n e c a m p i n g . . . she c o u l d n ' t r e f u s e . A f t e r 3 0 y e a r s o f marriage I should have k n o w n better. " G o into the R o c h e H a r b o r R e s o r t d i r t y f r o m c a m p i n g a n d w i t h n o t h i n g t o w e a r ? ? Y o u g o b y y o u r s e l f ! I'm g o i n g t o m y sister's i n C a l i f o r n i a ! " N e v e r t h e l e s s the m o r n i n g of S e p t e m b e r 13 f o u n d u s r o w i n g d o w n D e e r H a r b o r , past t h e south end of Jones Island, and headed out across the s m o o t h w a t e r o f S a n J u a n C h a n n e l . T h e w e a t h e r was w a r m a n d clear as we s t r o k e d along at a c o m f o r t a b l e three knots. T h e V i c t o r i a - b o u n d ferry crossed o u r stern and hurried on.

Five miles out of D e e r H a r b o r we r e a c h e d the g r a s s y s l o p e s o f S p i e d e n I s l a n d a n d h e a d e d u p its n o r t h side, h u g g i n g t h e s h o r e t o a v o i d a s t r o n g flood tide. We d o d g e d r o c k s a n d kelp as we observed a b a n d o n e d buildings near the shore.

T h e n o r t h side o f the island b e c a m e m o r e w o o d e d as we w o r k e d westward.

A h e a d I could identify T i p t o p Hill on Stuart Island, but was u n s u r e of the e n t r a n c e to Reid H a r b o r u n t i l w e w e r e a c t u a l l y i n it. W e r o w e d t h e mile t o t h e h e a d o f t h e b a y a n d h a u l e d t h e w h e r r y up o n t o the state float. T h e r e w e r e no o t h e r i n t o S a n J u a n C h a n n e l w h e n I saw w h i t e c a p s isthmus between Reid and Prevost H a r b o r s . T h e rest o f t h e a f t e r n o o n w a s s p e n t i n t w o a t t e m p t s t o f i n d t h e trail o u t o f t h e c a m p s i t e a n d i n g e t t i n g t o k n o w people f r o m boats m o o r e d in the t w o harbors. After a dinner of canned stew we sacked o u t i n o u r s l e e p i n g bags t o t h e s o u n d o f w i n d i n t h e tall t r e e s . G i n n y c l a i m s s h e d i d n o t sleep t h a t n i g h t - but she d i d .

The following morning we breakfasted on o a t m e a l , loaded the w h e r r y , r o w e d d o w n t o the m o u t h of Reid H a r b o r , a n d t u r n e d s o u t h . It was still c l e a r a n d w a r m w i t h a l o n g , g e n t l e swell

r o l l i n g i n f r o m H a r o S t r a i t . T h e l o w G u l f Islands w i t h V a n c o u v e r I s l a n d b e y o n d lay i n a light h a z e o v e r the Canadian border to the west.

W e easily c r o s s e d t h e t h r e e m i l e s t o P o s e y I s l a n d , just n o r t h o f Pear I s l a n d a t t h e e n t r a n c e t o R o c h e H a r b o r . Posey I s l a n d is a t i n y p l a c e a n d all o f i t i s a s t a t e p a r k . W e b e a c h e d o n t h e s a n d spit o n t h e s o u t h side for a l u n c h o f n u t s a n d d r i e d f r u i t . A f t e r l a u n c h i n g a n d r o u n d i n g Pear I s l a n d , Roche H a r b o r came into view. T h e m o o r a g e was filled w i t h large y a c h t s a n d t h e r e s o r t c o m p l e x appeared huge. G i n n y w a n t e d to c h e c k in right away, but I was getting nervous about entering s u c h a p l a c e in a r o w b o a t . I s u g g e s t e d i n s t e a d , that since it was early, we r o w d o w n to English Camp.

W e w a n d e r e d s o u t h t h r o u g h t h e pleasant l o w s h o r e s o f M o s q u i t o Pass, n o t s u r e o f j u s t w h e r e English C a m p was. It t u r n e d out to be on G a r r i s o n B a y , w h i c h m a d e s e n s e . W e spent a n h o u r o r m o r e e x p l o r i n g this r e m n a n t o f t h e Pig W a r incident between England and the U.S., 1859-72.

I became increasingly jittery as we l a u n c h e d the w h e r r y a n d headed back u p t o w a r d R o c h e H a r b o r . W h e n the resort c a m e into sight, I pulled a s w e a t e r o v e r m y tee s h i r t a n d c o v e r e d o u r b o x e s o f gear w i t h a p o n c h o i n a n a t t e m p t t o l o o k m o r e s h i p s h a p e . G i n n y l o o k e d a s p r i m a s ever i n h e r y e l l o w life j a c k e t , b u t w e d i d n ' t n o t i c e t h e o a r grease o n t h e seat o f her t r o u s e r s . I h a d b e e n t o l d t h e r e w a s a d i n g h y float a n d f o u n d i t w i t h less trouble t h a n e x p e c t e d , next t o the c u s t o m s d o c k .

fresh d o n u t s f r o m a s h o p on the d o c k . I was c h e c k i n g out the w h e r r y w h e n c o m p l i m e n t e d o n it by a b e a r d e d y o u n g g i a n t . He r a n a sailing school out of Victoria and was there w i t h a convoy of three sloops. We discussed the possibilities o f t a k i n g t h e w h e r r y f a r t h e r n o r t h n e x t y e a r . E n c o u r a g e d , I s p e n t t h e rest o f t h e m o r n i n g s h o w i n g off m y little w o o d e n b o a t b y r o w i n g t h r o u g h t h e l a r g e a n d e x p e n s i v e fleet.

I t w a s later t h a n I h a d i n t e n d e d w h e n w e e n t e r e d S p i e d e n C h a n n e l a n d h e a d e d east a c r o s s the t o p of San J u a n Island. Again we hugged the s h o r e to avoid an adverse tide. We h a d cleared L i m e s t o n e P o i n t a n d w e r e p e r h a p s a half m i l e o u t into San J u a n channel w h e n I saw whitecaps a h e a d . I b e l i e v e d a sea w a s b u i l d i n g f r o m t h e south a n d thought " W h a t the heck are we d o i n g o u t h e r e in a b o a t of this s i z e ? " Earlier t h a t y e a r G i n n y h a d h a d t r o u b l e r o w i n g in r o u g h w a t e r so I t o l d her to s h i p her o a r s w h i l e I r o w e d a l o n g . I w a s glad I h a d g i v e n t h e w h e r r y a m p l e f r e e b o a r d a s t h e c o n f u s e d sea s l a p p e d a t o u r s i d e s , but d i d n o t c o m e o v e r t h e g u n w a l e .

A f t e r a w h i l e I s a w s m o o t h e r w a t e r off to s t a r b o a r d a n d r e a l i z e d w e w e r e i n a tide r i p . I should have paid m o r e a t t e n t i o n t o m y chart. W e crossed over into smoother water and r o w e d together on into the bay at the n o r t h e n d of Jones Island.

W e b e a c h e d f o r l u n c h , t h e n set o u t o n foot t o explore the island. O u r guides w e r e a couple we had met at Stuart Island. T h e w o m a n s h o w e d G i n n y h o w to feed tiny native deer pears f r o m an

A WINTER'S T A L E

By Chas D o w d T h i s y e a r t h e C W B ' s b o t t o m l e s s c o f f e e p o t has been joined by an eternally b u r n i n g w o o d s t o v e . It has k e p t t h e b o a t s h o p c h e e r y a n d w a r m . . . o r has a t least c u t t h e f r o s t , d e p e n d i n g o n w h o ' s d o i n g t h e s t o k i n g . O u r d i r e c t o r has t u r n e d i n t o a middling fire-feeder. Visiting boatbuilders do well, p r o b a b l y b e c a u s e m a n y o f t h e m heat their s h o p s w i t h w o o d s t o v e s a n d are used t o w o r k i n g w i t h the o f f - c u t s a n d s c r a p c h u n k s o f fuel t h a t w o u l d a p p a l l h o m e o w n e r s u s e d t o r e g u l a r l e n g t h s o f n i c e l y split cordwood.

T h e other day, I was giving M a r y F o r d s o m e p o i n t e r s o n m a i n t a i n i n g t h e fragile fire s h e ' s c o a x e d o u t o f t w o p i e c e s o f fir w h i c h l o o k e d l i k e t h e y ' d just b e e n f i s h e d o u t o f t h e l a k e . M a r y s u g g e s t e d t h a t if I w a s so full of a d v i c e m a y b e I'd like t o t r y s p l i t t i n g s o m e o f t h e h o p e l e s s l y g n a r l e d m a p l e s o m e o n e h a d left t o t e a c h u s p a t i e n c e .

I d e m u r r e d , b e i n g n e i t h e r Paul B u n y a n n o r A b e Lincoln but rather m o r e of a consultant.

H o w e v e r , I was able to r e a c h into the w a r e h o u s e o f m e m o r y a n d tell M a r y a w o o d s t o v e s t o r y c a l l e d " T h e C i t y K i d , the Z e n Painter-Sage a n d the Bit of Woodsy Lore."

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I h a v e a f r i e n d w h o lives in a m a r v e l o u s c a b i n at t h e v e r y m o u t h o f t h e S k a g i t . I t has a t o w e r t h r e e s t o r i e s tall, s e v e r a l b a y w i n d o w s , a s l e e p i n g loft a n d a b r e a t h t a k i n g view of the river, Ika Island a n d t h e F l a t s . I t has n o e l e c t r i c l i g h t , r u n n i n g water or indoor plumbing. H e r e , in the c o m p a n y of a l a r g e w o o d b u r n i n g r a n g e , my f r i e n d lives a life of Simplicity and Spiritual C o n t e m p l a t i o n . A b o u t e v e r y six m o n t h s , his c o n t e m p l a t i o n leads h i m t o a great T r u t h . G e n e r a l l y this t r u t h is that unless h e gets o u t o f t h e w o o d s t o w h e r e t h e r e a r e members of the opposite sex, strong drink and l o u d r o c k ' n r o l l , h e will begin e a t i n g w i l l o w t r e e s .

Since people w h o w o u l d never d r e a m of even sitting d o w n uninvited in a suburban home r e g a r d a c a b i n in t h e w o o d s as fair play f o r p l u n d e r , my f r i e n d likes t o h a v e a c a b i n - s i t t e r w h i l e he's d o w n i n S . F . l o o k i n g a t t h e b r i g h t lights. O n e i r o n c o l d February I volunteered to keep the stove going while he went south.

F o r f o u r d a y s I t r i e d t o get a fire i n t h e d a m n t h i n g . I t r i e d e v e r y t h i n g I l e a r n e d in B o y S c o u t s . I

I started to relax as the c u s t o m s officer c o m p l i m e n t e d us on our w o o d e n boat. He even let m e s t o r e m y f o u r l a b o r i o u s l y c a r v e d o a r s i n his office.

W e c h e c k e d into the old H o t e l d e H a r o .

S o m e o n e had stolen the page f r o m the register w h e r e T e d d y Roosevelt had signed in. We went up to o u r $60/night suite. (Suite m e a n t we had a p r i v a t e b a t h . F o r $45 night w e w o u l d h a v e h a d t o share one.) T h e decor could be called Frontier V i c t o r i a n . B l o c k s under o n e post kept the bed f r o m sliding d o w n the sloping floor.

W e s h o w e r e d a n d c h a n g e d i n t o carefullyp a c k e d clean clothes, then e x p l o r e d t h e grounds.

T h i s i n c l u d e d t h e eerie m a u s o l e u m w h e r e t h e ashes o f t h e f o u n d i n g M c M i l l i n family rest i n c o n c r e t e c h a i r s a r o u n d a c o n c r e t e table. I n f o r m a t i o n on the o c c u p a n t was c a r v e d on the back of each chair. As. I recall, J o h n S. M c M i l l i n was an S A E , M e t h o d i s t , 32nd degree M a s o n , a n d Republican, not necessarily in that order.

After an expensive dinner we retired to our suite a n d retired. G i n n y thought the resort was r o m a n t i c . I h a d t r o u b l e g e t t i n g t o sleep against t h e sound of disco music. I kept remembering h o w pleasant c a m p i n g h a d b e e n t h e n i g h t b e f o r e - a n d h o w little i t h a d c o s t .

T h e f o l l o w i n g m o r n i n g w e s e t t l e d f o r coffee a n d

a b a n d o n e d o r c h a r d . A s w e w e r e leaving the i s l a n d , I h e a r d s o m e o n e yelling my n a m e . It w a s a m a n w h o had r o w e d the w h e r r y at Roche. He was at t h e tiller of his s l o o p a n d w a v i n g at us w h i l e his daughter a n d her boyfriend w e r e frantically r u s h i n g f o r w a r d t o f e n d off t h e float h e w a s a b o u t t o r a m . I w a v e d b a c k , b u t w e just k e p t o n g o i n g .

G i n n y still t h i n k s t h e s h o r t r o w d o w n S p r i n g Passage t o t h e t i p o f O r c a s I s l a n d w a s t h e best part of the trip. " O u r r o w i n g was like d a n c i n g . " ( S o u t h e r n girls l o v e t o d a n c e , a n d s h e has a l w a y s b e e n a f t e r m e f o r not d o i n g it.) W e c r o s s e d t h e b o w o f a large y e l l o w s l o o p s o u t h b o u n d o n a s t a r b o a r d tack. He did not return our w a v e as he sailed p a s t .

W e r o u n d e d Steep Point a n d pulled leisurely u p to the D e e r H a r b o r M a r i n a . T h e w o m a n at the store was impressed by our adventure and friendlier t h a n w h e n w e h a d left. T h i s t i m e s h e let u s leave t h e w h e r r y o n o n e o f her f l o a t s . T h e following m o r n i n g there was a brisk w i n d out of t h e s o u t h . I c o u l d see f r o m o u r r o o m that S a n J u a n C h a n n e l really w a s filled w i t h w h i t e c a p s this time. We had gotten back none too soon.

I a s k e d G i n n y if s h e h a d b e e n a f r a i d in t h e tide rip the day before. She replied " N o , I trusted y o u . " I w o n d e r i f n e x t y e a r she'll t r u s t m e e n o u g h to t r a d e a n i g h t in V a n c o u v e r f o r a w e e k on Desolation Sound? •

tried prayer. I tried C h i p p e w a h stick-ball chants. I used up enough w o o d e n kitchen matches to build a s e c o n d c a b i n i n o n e - t e n t h scale. O n d a y five I w a s t r y i n g t o m a k e tea w i t h w a t e r h e a t e d o n t h e e m e r g e n c y P r i m u s w h e n C h a r l i e s t u c k his h e a d i n and said, " W o w , it sure is c o l d ! W h y don't c h a build a fire?"

I w a s b e y o n d pride. I explained my plight.

C h a r l i e has lived u p t h e r e s i n c e M o s e s w a s a messcook. Charlie was party to occult knowledge about woodstoves. painting, zen poetry and the s e a s o n s that I w o u l d n e v e r s h a r e . C h a r l i e c o u l d b u r n w a t e r ; s t a r t fires w i t h s n o w . L i k e t h e woodsmen of the Leatherstocking stories, C h a r l i e w a s b a s h f u l but p l e a s e d t o b e a s k e d lor help.

W i t h calloused, bronze hard hands he r e m o v e d my smolder. T h e n he asked for a scrap of paper sack. " N e w s p a p e r g e t s t o filling C o n s t i p a t e s a f i r e , " he s a i d .

up

the

draft.

N e x t h e w e n t t o t h e w o o d p i l e a n d got a f e w s l i c k s o f c e d a r . W i t h t h e biggest c l a s p knife I'd e v e r s e e n h e t r i m m e d off t h e o u t e r l a y e r , b a r i n g m o r e d r y w o o d t h a n I'd s e e n i n m y w h o l e s t a y . " D r y w o o d ' s v i t a l . L e t s a fire feed g o o d . " T h e n h e p e e l e d little c u r l i c u e s p a r t l y off t h e s t i c k , m a k i n g i t l o o k like s o m e t h i n g v a g u e l y f u r r y . " P i n e a p p l e s t i c k , " h e s a i d , a n d laid i t d e l i c a t e l y o n the s c r a p of paper sack.

C a r e f u l l y he built a s t r u c t u r e of a l d e r splits above the cedar a n d a d d e d t w o g o o d c h u n k s of s w a m p maple. " G i v e s it b a c k b o n e , " Charlie said.

O b v i o u s l y m y fires w e r e c o n s t i p a t e d s t a r v e lings w i t h t e r m i n a l s p i n e l e s s n e s s . B y this t i m e I'd filled the b a c k s of t w o envelopes w i t h notes.

C h a r l i e then went to the woodpile, bringing back a gargantuan armload. " D o n ' t w a n t t o r u n o u t , " h e said.

T h e n f r o m t h e p o c k e t o f his p a t c h e d , w o r n l o g g e r ' s s h i r t h e p u l l e d a s m a l l plastic t u b e a n d d e c a n t e d a single m a t c h . A l l a t t e n t i o n f o c u s e d o n the f i r e b o x . C h a r l i e e x a m i n e d his c o n s t r u c t l i k e S h e r l o c k H o l m e s regarding a malefactor or a famous brain surgeon peering into a skull.

W i t h o u t b r e a k i n g the intensity or d i r e c t i o n of his g a z e , C h a r l i e b e g a n r e a c h i n g b e h i n d h i m s e l f , g r o p i n g for s o m e t h i n g he n e e d e d to be handed. " O k a y , " he g r o w l e d , " g i m m e the coal o i l . . . "

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WINTER 84 P R O G R E S S R E P O R T C W B i s still t h e n e w k i d o n t h e L a k e U n i o n block. W e ' v e o n l y been o p e n to the public since last J u l y , b u t t r a d i t i o n a l l y w i n t e r i s t i m e t o s e t t l e back and take inventory.

W h a t have we done?

T h e first i m p r e s s i o n o f o u r u p l a n d a r e a i s t h a t t h e M o n g o l H o r d e s h a v e j u s t c o m p l e t e d basic training there. It's a p o t h o l e d w a s t e l a n d .

O u r fleet l o o k s g o o d , b u t it's far f r o m a w o r k i n g c o l l e c t i o n o f t h e best o f o u r s m a l l - c r a f t h e r i t a g e .

O u r only building, the b o a t s h o p , is c r o w d e d on weekends w i t h boatbuilding students, casual drop-ins, rental customers and volunteers doing their assigned tasks. T h e p h o n e is constantly ringing. T h e place can seem c r a m p e d a n d c h a o t i c , b u t it's e x c i t i n g .

I s this t h e C W B d r e a m - a h a v e n w h e r e o u r s m a l l - b o a t t r a d i t i o n s a n d skills a r e p r e s e r v e d a n d n u r t u r e d ? O u r v i s i o n i s a living m u s e u m i n t h e heart of a vital city. O u r tiny W a t e r w a y 4 plot on L a k e U n i o n will always have the roaring, p o u n d i n g , ever-changing city on three sides, a n d a w o r k i n g freshwater h a r b o r on the f o u r t h . T h a t ' s

r e a l i t y . B u t will w e h a v e m o r e s p a c e t o s p r e a d o u t o u r activities?

T h e street-side trees have been d o n a t e d .

B a c k h o e d i t c h i n g i s a d o n a t i o n w a i t i n g for t h e n e c e s s a r y g o o d d i r t . B e f o r e s p r i n g , a line o f m a p l e s will f o r m a g r e e n belt o f i n s u l a t i o n f r o m t h e b u s t l i n g s t r e e t traffic.

O u r p a v i l i o n i s the m a j o r u p l a n d s t r u c t u r e . I t i s a t u r n - o f - t h e - c e n t u r y s h e l t e r for q u i e t v i e w i n g of this n e w w i n d o w on the lake, a n d a prelude to o u r floating harbor.

The Seattle Community College's schools of carpentry and boatbuilding h a v e a d o p t e d this s t r u c t u r e a s t h e i r gift t o t h e p u b l i c . W e h a v e d o n a t i o n s o f $6,000 f r o m T h e Seattle F o u n d a t i o n a n d C a p e F l a t t e r y F o u n d a tions r e s e r v e d t o r p a v i l i o n m a t e r i a l s . W e still n e e d t h e r o o f shingles - a b o u t $1,200.

C W B m e m b e r Bart Kister of Indianapolis is m a k i n g a c o p p e r silhouette of o u r logo, the sailing gillnetter, as the pavilion's weathervane. T h e pavilion should be completed by August.

J i m B u c k l i n , w h o ordinarily designs a n d builds c u s t o m w o o d s t a i r c a s e s , i s n o w c r a f t i n g o u r boatr e n t a l s h o p as a d o n a t i o n . It will be r e a d y this spring.

The A r m y C o r p s of Engineers is scouting for u n c l a i m e d c e d a r logs i n o u r w a t e r s , t o use f o r o u r n e x t float. T h i s will b e t h e r e n t a l s h o p b a s e , a n d moorage for m o r e good boats.

A l l t h e s e e l e m e n t s will s p r e a d o u t t h e a c t i v i t i e s a n d soften the h a r d edges of o u r commercialindustrial e n v i r o n m e n t . But the d r e a m o f C W B i s not waiting for m o r e structures or decorations.

T h e d r e a m is getting people involved w i t h o u r small-craft heritage. This year, w i t h r o u g h edges a n d p o t h o l e s , w e d i d it. T w e n t y s t u d e n t s e a c h completed over 50 hours of boatbuilding instruction in our crowded shop. Approximately 500 o t h e r s a t t e n d e d o u r 1983 s e m i n a r series mainly at the Naval Reserve Base n e x t door.

(That many or m o r e are e x p e c t e d to complete this y e a r ' s s e m i n a r series, n o w g o i n g o n a t W a t e r w a y 4.) A b o u t 400 a t t e n d e d o u r m o n t h l y meetings to hear speakers. Visitors f r o m H o m e r , A l a s k a t o A l g e r i a s i g n e d o u r guest b o o k . O u r r e n t a l fleet h a d m o r e t h a n 600 passages o n L a k e Union.

T h e d r e a m is a w o r k i n g m u s e u m . It's already a w o r k i n g reality. - D i c k W a g n e r , •

THANKS, VOLUNTEERS! V o l u n t e e r effort - as we've said so often - is o u r lifeblood. O u r m e m b e r s h i p invests m o r e t h a n just m o n e y i n C W B . T h e i r dollars pay f o r o u r programs and publications, but countless hours of d o n a t e d time keep the systems functioning.

F r o m p u m p i n g r a i n w a t e r out o f b o a t s t o t h e craftsm a n s h i p of a c o p p e r w e a t h e r v a n e , we r e c e i v e a

bountiful dividend of g o o d deeds a n d g o o d will.

I n t h e b o a t s h o p a l o n e , o v e r 600 h o u r s o f w o r k h a v e b e e n l o g g e d b y t h e v o l u n t e e r s i n 1983. K i n g v o l u n t e e r t h e r e has b e e n M i k e S t o n e - P h i m i s t e r .

H e ' s g i v e n m o r e t h a n 200 h o u r s , s o m e i n 10-hour shifts. M i k e does refinishing, rents the boats, r e p a i r s all s o r t s o f g l i t c h e s , m a k e s i n n u m e r a b l e improvements to the shop, dock and boats and u s u a l l y d o e s this b e f o r e t h e d i r e c t o r k n o w s it's needed.

W e w o u l d n ' t b e able t o r u n m u c h o f a n o p e r a t i o n w i t h o u t the M i k e s of our volunteer staff. A s i n c e r e , t h a n k s to all! - D i c k W a g n e r , •

NEED A BOAT? T h e C e n t e r f o r W o o d e n Boats receives donations of boats w h i c h we sometimes prefer to convert to funds for ongoing p r o g r a m s a n d projects.

I f y o u w a n t t o k n o w w h a t i s a v a i l a b l e , o r c a n tell u s w h a t y o u a r e l o o k i n g f o r , w e m a y b e able t o m a t c h y o u r wishes to our surplus donations. Call 3 8 2 - B O A T for details.

•

DONATIONS NEEDED T h e C W B needs a truck to pick up d o n a t e d items. Either a d o n a t i o n of t r u c k time, or the v e h i c l e itself.

Also needed at W a t e r w a y 4: An o u t b o a r d engine mechanic... some interior cabinet w o r k . . . firewood for the old w o o d s t o v e . . . a carousel-type projector with auto-advance capability . . . a n d anyone w h o is willing to b e c o m e involved in any other way. •

RECENT DONATIONS • D o r y refinishing: M a r y F o r d .

• Shingles for the boat-rental shop: G e o r g e Corley.

• S t r u c t u r a l design a n d w o r k i n g drawings for a C W B pavilion: Environmental W o r k s .

• Installation of o u r mailbox: B o b Criner.

• S t e a m whistle: C a p t . F.W. Buckler.

• 14-foot L i s t e r - b u i l t s a i l b o a t : S h i r l e y C o f f i n .

• 12-foot E d M o n k sailing d i n g h y : R u s t y Drake.

• Fancy wrought-iron G u e r r a n t Bethell.

• Repair of bandsaw Kuchenbecker.

•

fireplace

poker:

motor:

George

DATE CHANGE L a s t issue w e a n n o u n c e d t h a t t h e C W B S p r i n g R e g a t t a w o u l d b e h e l d S u n d a y , A p r i l 22. W e ' v e changed the date to S u n d a y , April 29, to avoid a conflict w i t h Easter. •

CALENDAR OF EVENTS February-May WOODEN BOAT SEMINARS T h e C W B c o n t i n u e s its series o f w e e k l y w o r k s h o p s a t W a t e r w a y 4 . F o r details, please see s c h e d u l e i n s e r t e d i n t o this issue.

Friday, February 17 CWB MONTHLY MEETING 7-10 p.m., Waterway 4 S i m o n W a t t s o f f e r s a slide l e c t u r e o n l a p s t r a k e construction history and techniques, with e m p h a s i s o n tips for t h e h o m e b u i l d e r . W a t t s , a skilled builder, a u t h o r a n d i n s t r u c t o r , is leading the C W B seminars o n lapstrake c o n s t r u c t i o n .

Friday, March 16 CWB MONTHLY MEETING 7:30-10 p.m., Waterway 4 A free f i l m , " I n t h e L a n d o f W a r C a n o e s , " a n d slides s h o w i n g t h e c o n s t r u c t i o n o f a N o r t h w e s t I n d i a n d u g o u t . Leslie L i n c o l n , w h o s t u d i e s N o r t h w e s t I n d i a n c u l t u r e , will s h o w a n d c o m m e n t o n t h e f a m o u s E d w a r d C u r t i s film o n K w a k i u t l c u l t u r e , a n d t h e slide series o f Bill H o l m b u i l d i n g a H a i d a canoe. H o l m is a leading authority on N o r t h w e s t tribal crafts.

Sunday, April 29 CWB SPRING REGATTA Noon to dark, Waterway 4.

C W B ' s semi-annual gathering of the clan, i n c l u d i n g r o w i n g a n d sailing r a c e s , p o t l u c k feast a n d lots o f boat talk. F o r d e t a i l s , call 382 B O A T . ( N o t e : T h i s is a s c h e d u l e c h a n g e . Last issue we a n n o u n c e d t h e r e g a t t a w o u l d b e h e l d A p r i l 22.)

June 29, 30, July 1 SEATTLE WOODEN BOAT SHOW 10 a.m.-6 p.m. daily O u r annual L a k e U n i o n extravaganza, at the C W B W a t e r w a y 4 site a n d t h e a d j o i n i n g S e a t t l e Naval Reserve Base. Details to be a n n o u n c e d in t h e n e x t issue.

July 28-29 POULSBO BOAT RENDEZVOUS Noon Saturday to 6 p.m. Sunday, Poulsbo T h e s e c o n d a n n u a l g a t h e r i n g o f classic P o u l s b o Boats - old and new. This year's get-together should feature about three dozen of the boats featured in C W B ' s Poulsbo Boat monograph. For d e t a i l s , call M a r t y L o k e n , (206) 282-8116 d a y s .

Saturday, March 31 DINGHY CRUISING ASSOC. MEET 1 p.m. CWB Boatshop

Saturday, August 4 PULL & BE DAMNED REGATTA Bowman Bay, Deception Pass

M e m b e r s o f the N W . C h a p t e r o f the W o r l d w i d e D i n g h y C r u i s i n g A s s o c i a t i o n will g a t h e r , s o m e w i t h their boats, at W a t e r w a y 4. Everyone's i n v i t e d . . . d i n g h i e s o r n o t . F o r d e t a i l s , call 382B O A T . o r t h e D C A s B o b R o d g e r s . (206) 7433855. Everett.

T h e s i x t h a n n u a l e v e n t for h a n d - l a u n c h e d r o w i n g a n d sailing c r a f t , s p o n s o r e d b y t h e O l d A n a c o r t e s R o w i n g a n d Sailing Society. F o r details, c o n t a c t O A R S , c / o F l o u n d e r B a y B o a t L u m b e r , 1019 T h i r d S t r e e t , A n a c o r t e s , W A 98221.