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TEXTILE

VALUE CHAIN

www.textilevaluechain.com

September 2017

Volume 5

JB Ecotex EDGE

Issue 9

USTER HUNTSMAN LENZING DURBAGI

Diwali


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Wish you a Very Happy Diwali & Prosperous New Year ..!!! A Well Wisher

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The Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT

SAG


CONTENT GST UPDATE: 13- CITI Welcomes revised GST rates for MMF Products 14- TEXPROCIL: Extend Transitional provision for duty drawback till 31st March, 2018 14- SIMA urges centre to have a re-look on duty drawback rates 15-AEPC : Apparel industry expresses disappointment on duty drawback rate set for RMG Export

Septmber 2017 ISSUE EDITORIAL TEAM Editor and Publisher Ms. Jigna Shah Consulting Editor Mr. Avinash Mayekar Graphic Designer Mr. Anant A. Jogale Sales Manager Mr. Md. Tanweer Editorial Assistant Mrs. Namsha T.

INDUSTRY

Mr. Devchand Chheda City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group) Mr. Manohar Samuel President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries Dr. M. K. Talukdar VP, Kusumgar Corporates Mr. Shailendra Pandey VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon Mr. Ajay Sharma GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group)

EDUCATION / RESEARCH

Mr. B.V. Doctor HOD knitting, SASMIRA Dr. Ela Dedhia Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College Dr. Mangesh D. Teli Professor, Dean ICT Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay Principal Scientist and Head MPD Dr. Rajan Nachane Retired Scientist, CIRCOT

Delhi Representative office : Mr. Sudhir Verma Knit Experts 242, Pocket 3, Sector 23, Near Max Fort School, Rohini, New Delhi- 110085 Email : knitexperts@rediffmail.com Tel : +91-9818026572

September 2017

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INTERVIEW 16- Akshay Jakhotya, MD of Jakbrillo Udyog LLP. 17- Michael Jänecke, Director Brand Management, Messe Frankfurt Exhibition GmbH

SPECIAL REPORT 18-Where is the Rupee headed 60 or 70? By Abhishek Goenka, IFA Global

FASHION 29- Priyadarshini Rao launches AW collection in association with LIVA Creme 29- Homey sweaters, warm colours, and pretty prints: Yes, fall is here, and so is SATVA Living! 30- Fashionably Digital- Brands of the Future by Vishnu Govind

EVENTS 21- SAG participates in India-Bangladesh Cotton Co-operation Buyers Seller Meet to Strengthen Bonds between the Two Nations 22-Techtextil India gives impetus to India’s technical textile revolution with debut Texprocess pavilion and business-oriented programmes

WALL OF FAME 23- JB Ecotex 24- EDGE 25- USTER 26- HUNTSMAN 27- LENZING 19 -DURBAGI 32- Sustainable Fibers : Clothing from Groundnut fibers by Dr. N.N. Mahapatra 34- BIO-TECH: Mulching in Agriculture by Dr. S. Raman

MARKET REPORT 28- Surat Update 36- Yarn Report 38- Fabric Report

37- Show Calendar

Advertiser Index Back Page : Raymond Back Inside : Boalamo Page 3: JP MODATEX Page 4: Dashmesh Page 5: SGS Innovation Page 6: Swadeshi Textiles & Well Wisher- Surat Page 7: EDGE Page 8 : Udyog 2018 Page 9: TEXFAIR 2017

Page 10: ITMACH 2017 Page 39: Laxmipati Page 40: Sanjay Plastic Page 41: Tuff Plast Page 42: SKBS Page 43: Klassic Fabrics Page 44: Deep Textile Page 45: FashionPedia Page 46: IESE 2017

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EDITORIAL

Celebrating Diwali With Brands

Diwali is the most awaited festival for Indian consumer and retailers. Everyone looks forward to buy and sell new and innovative products during this season. But our industry is in gloomy stage. We have taken few industry stalwart views on current ground reality of industry apart from GST and duty draw back issues. Industry growth no more depends upon the past glory, future is unexpected, very long forecast could be misleading, as consumer and market dynamics changing too fast. Bangladesh / China / Vietnam not grown exponentially still, India still has opportunity to grow on production side. To survive long term, industry entrepreneur need to add more professionals for better and smooth performance. Skilled workers will increase the productivity of the industry. Government has given good incentives, but the categorisation are not properly implemented. Indian Retail Industry is divided into online and offline in the last 3-4 years. Online/ digital retail market is where every individual expect discounts, hassle free shopping, innovative product, shopping at comfort of home etc. Few major ecommerce market like Amazon, Flipkart, e-bay making huge profit and selling maximum number of products during this festive season. Whereas offline retails also do have discounts, amazing shopping ambience, goodies, gifts, etc., still they are struggling to correct their balance sheet. Being an aspiring product industry, innovative fibres with value addition yarn and fabric is need by the industry. New sustainable fibres clothing is aspiring the fashion world. Cotton, always will have limitation as compare to other synthetic fibres. Synthetic fibre made from Gasoline which is used in other industries like automobile; in which fuel is replaced by electricity, which will lower the synthetic fibre price. As the industry is in an aspiration stage, building a BRAND is necessity in every stage of entire Textile Value Chain... We are starting this new column called Wall of Fame, where you will read the journey of the brand from scratch to success As an industry, we need to promise ourselves in this new year, that we will come out from the copy mind-set to creative mind-set to make a world class brand for future generation! We wish you a Very Happy Diwali and Prosperous new year!

Ms. Jigna Shah

Editor and Publisher All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith.

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Registered Office Innovative Media and Information Co. 189/5263, Sanmati, Pantnagar, Ghatkopar (East), Mumbai 400075. Maharashtra, INDIA. Tel : +91-22-21026386 Cell: +91-9769442239 Email: info@textilevaluechain.com tvcmedia2012@gmail.com Web: www.textilevaluechain.com

Owner, Publisher, Printer and Editor Ms. Jigna Shah Printed and Processed by her at, Impression Graphics, Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate, Andheri Kurla Road, Sakinaka, Andheri (East), Mumbai 400072, Maharashtra, India.

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September 2017


GST UPDATE

CITI Welcomes Revised GST Rates For MMF Products “The announcement of reduction of GST rates for ManMade Fibre Yarns and its products from 18% to 12 % by Arun Jaitley, Chairman, GST Council has met a long pending demand of the textile industry”, stated Sanjay K. Jain, Chairman, Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI). It will help to strengthen the entire textile value chain and make Indian Textile Industry globally more competitive. He further stated, I would first like to thank Arun Jaitley ji, Head of GST Council and Ministry of Finance, Smriti Zubin Irani, Minister for Textiles and all the senior dignitaries of both Ministries and Members of GST Council for making it a big reality! He also stated that CITI being the apex industry chamber of the textile and clothing industry of India, there was a big responsibility on the shoulders of OfficeBearers of CITI to get rid of this anomaly at the earliest. This announcement has brought a great sigh of relief to the entire textile industry and I once again thank everyone who pushed for the change, on behalf of the entire textile industry. Sanjay K. Jain further stated that the announcement has sorted out a big issue of inverted duty for the MMF products as it was causing serious issue of escalation of the cost of synthetic products which was further leading to cheaper imports from the competing countries like China and Indonesia. As of now, there is no refund of ITC at fabric stage and under post-GST regime, with abolition of 12.5% Countervailing Duty and 4% Special Additional duty, the import has become much cheaper option than sourcing fabrics from the domestic market. He further stated that CITI had made several representations to the Finance Minister, GST Council and the Textile Minister to immediately reduce GST rate on MMF Yarn and its products to 12% from 18% to rein in inflation of MMF products and to safeguard domestic producers from getting defunct. He stated that reduced GST rates would greatly benefit not only the spinning and power loom sector but would also support the initiative of Make In India and achieve the national objective of creating more employment opportunities. He also stated that this step of the government will also help the industry to cloth the poor masses of the nation at an affordable cost. Chairman, CITI also thanked the GST Council for giving relief for the blockage in credit of exporters that affects

the cash liquidity of the exporters. He also hailed the announcement of processing the refund cheques for July exports by 10th October and August exports by 18th October and also the decision of creating an E-Wallet while from 1st April 2018. He stated that this would resolve the problem of working capital getting blocked and benefit the exporters. He added that the suspension of reverse charge mechanism till 31th March, 2018 will benefit small businesses and substantially reduce compliance costs. Chairman, CITI also welcomed the announcement of easing the compliance burden on medium and small taxpayers and increasing the eligibility of Composition Scheme under GST from Rs.75 lakhs to Rs.1 Crore. Extending the tax exemption for 100% EOU units, Advance Licensing Scheme and EPCG Scheme and allowing the merchant exporters to purchase with 0.1% tax payment upto 31st March 2018 are a few more announcements that benefit the textile industry, said Sanjay K. Jain. Chairman, CITI hopes that the GST Council would soon consider refund of the accumulated Input Tax Credit at fabric stage especially the processed fabrics and also mandate the duty drawback committee to recommend appropriate duty drawback rates and RoSL rates to sustain the export performance. He also felt that the Government should extend the transitional provision of giving the pre-GST Duty Drawback and RoSL rates for another 6 months or till the new calculated rates are announced.

‘‘Be happy for this moment. This moment is your life. September 2017

www.textilevaluechain.com

’’ 13


GST UPDATE

Extend Transitional Provision For Duty Drawback Till 31th March, 2018: Texprocil Exporters are facing problems during the initial days of the implementation of the new Indirect Tax regime GST. ‘The major area of concern for the exporters is the inordinate delay in the refund of GST”, said Ujwal Lahoti, Chairman of The Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council ( TEXPROCIL) . Exporters who had shipped their goods in the month of July are yet to receive their refunds of the Input Tax Credits or the IGST paid on export goods . This has caused serious working capital problems for a large number of exporters and has in fact threatened the very survival of many of the exporters . Since there no exemptions available at any stage under the GST law for exports , Lahoti urged the government to grant the refunds of GST on exports immediately after the Export General Manifest (EGM) is filed instead of the current requirement of linking the refunds to the filing of the monthly returns . Exporters are also bearing the burden of embedded state taxes on the export products . Presently , the ROSL ( Rebate of State Levies ) Scheme provides for refund of state levies on export products in the case of Garments and Made ups . However, the scheme does not cover embedded state levies from the fibre stage to the Made ups stage. This is due to the fact that the Drawback Committee which has been constituted by the government to recommend ROSL rates does not have the mandate to examine the incidence of embedded taxes on Made ups which is estimated to be approximately 2% . Lahoti urged

the government to provide the necessary mandate to the Drawback Committee to examine the embedded state levies and recommend suitable ROSL rates for Made ups. Since the delay in the refund of GST on exports combined with other factors like low demand from major export markets, strengthening Rupee against the U.S.Dollar and the likely reduction in the export benefits under the GST regime are causing serious problems and uncertainty for the exporters, Lahoti urged the Government to extend the transitional provision for the All Industry Rates of Duty Drawback (AIR) and ROSL from September 30, 2017 to March 31, 2018. Under GST, merchant exporters who contributes about 60% of the textiles exports ,are at a distinct disadvantage compared to the manufacturer exporters as they are unable to get goods meant for exports from the manufacturers without payment of GST . There is no enabling document prescribed so far by the Government under which goods can be cleared by a manufacturer without charging IGST meant for exports by a merchant exporter against Bond/LUT, pointed out Lahoti. TEXPROCIL has represented to the government to introduce a mechanism under which merchant exporters are allowed to get goods from the manufacturers without payment of GST for exports , said the Chairman, TEXPROCIL .

SIMA Urges Centre To Have A Re-Look On Duty Drawback Rates Indian textiles and clothing exports has been struggling during the last three years due to the absence of level playing field in the global market mainly because of high tariff rates in major markets and also non-refund of several taxes and levies. Under the GST regime, it was promised that all taxes and levies would be refunded. Textiles and clothing industry, the second largest employment provider of the country after agriculture and providing jobs to over 105 million people, was stagnated on export growth during the last three years with around US$ 37 billion. The Central Government realising the need for boosting textile exports and create jobs, announced a special package of Rs. 6,006/- crores during September 2016 for garments and included made-ups recently giving enhanced duty drawback rate and also ROSL (Refund of State Levies). However, the present announcement of the government on duty drawback rates does not synchronize

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with the earlier government announcement of boosting exports and job creation. In the present announcement, only the old drawback rates have been retained when Cenvat credit was availed without any change and also without getting into detailed calculation of blocked tax burden on each product. The textile value chain has been under exempted route since 2004 and the drawback benefit and other export benefits were giving some competitive edge to the Indian textiles and clothing exporters with the competing Nations as India is yet to conclude any FTA with the major markets. Countries such as Bangladesh, Vietnam have achieved significant growth in garment exports during the last three years while India export is stagnated at US$ 16 to 17 billion per year. In a recent press release, P.Nataraj, Chairman, The Southern India Mills’ Association (SIMA) has appealed to the Ministry of Finance to have a re-look at the drawback rates applicable for textiles, refund all the blocked, em-

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September 2017


GST UPDATE bedded taxes, levies and accumulated input tax credit on fabric especially the processed fabric. Nataraj has stated that the cost of dyes and chemicals accounts 30 to 40% of the processing charges. Dyes and chemicals attract 18 or 28% GST making 3 to 5% accumulation of input tax credit as the fabric or processing job work attracts only 5% GST. He added that the service tax has been increased 15 to 18% and several services have been brought under tax net under GST. The old and new drawback rates for cotton yarn, cotton grey fabric, cotton garment and madeups are given below:-

SIMA chief has felt that at yarn stage the actual drawback rate would work out to 2 to 2.5% and at grey fabric stage, the same would work out around 3% while at finished fabric, garments and made-ups would work out to more than 5%. The exports will suffer very seriously and dwindle down sharply. Nataraj has stated that the government must ensure that no taxes are exported so that the exports will be competitive. In order to protect the jobs of several millions of people in the textile industry, he has urged the government to extend the existing drawback benefits till the GST anomalies and problems are fully sorted out and also the realistic drawback rates refunding all blocked, embedded taxes and levies including accumulated input tax credit at fabric stage are fully taken into consideration.

Apparel Industry Expresses Disappointment On Duty Drawback Rate Set For RMG Export The government has announced the new drawback rates to be effective from 1st October 2017 (post-transition period ending 30th September 2017). The new All Industry Rates (AIR) for garments is 2% as compared to the 7.7% drawback available till now. This low rate is unexpected as this body blow is coming at a time when the industry is facing continuous decline in exports due to global conditions, rupee overvaluation and uncertainties post by the GST regime. The industry is already facing severe financial pressure due to the increased working capital requirements under the GST regime and stress due to the above uncertainties keeping the export sentiments extremely low. The drawback was one of the key policy support measures towards lifting industry’s cost competitiveness in the wake of above slew of factors adversely affecting the sector. With this steep decline in the drawback support over 7000 small & medium enterprises in the apparel exports will be crippled and doomed in uncertainties. This will have an adverse impact on the employment being provided to over 12 million people be provided by this sector. Commenting on the issue, Ashok G Rajani, Chairman Apparel Export Promotion Council said, “The apparel industry needs to book orders in advance for the next season. The uncertainty prevailing for the last three months regarding the GST rates on apparel and job work have already cost the industry’s order books. “I think the present new rates are unacceptable and the Ministry of Textiles should immediately consider AEPC’s recommendation for extending the current transition rates till 31st March 2018, to instil confidence in the sector and also ensure a smooth transition into GST and also for sustaining the

September 2017

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employment in the sector. In the absence of an encouraging drawback rates, the exports will further witness a sharp decline just ahead of the peak festival season when the industry was expecting recovery”. AEPC has been in constant consultation with the Drawback Committee and various ministries for identification and consideration of several embedded / blocked taxes which are presently not subsumed in GST, not considered in the drawback, and hence a loss to the exporters. The industry was expecting continuation of the present drawback rates till such time as these consultations could be completed and proper measures taken to ensure that exports remain zero rated and no taxes are exported. Duty Drawback for RMG (61 & 62) Drawback rate Drawback rate effective from 15th effective from November, 2016 1.10.2017 Tariff Item

Product

Rate (%)

Value Cap/ piece (Rs.)

Rate (%)

Value Cap/ piece (Rs.)

37.9

61 & 62 Of cotton

7.7

146

Of blend containing cotton and MMF fibre

9.5

110

2% 2.50%

Of MMF fibre

9.8

115

2.50%

29.3

Of Silk (other than containing Noil silk)

7.6

170

4.80%

107.4

404

3.50%

162.5

3.00%

103.4

2%

26.3

Of Wool Of Blend containing Wool and Man Made Fibre Of Others

8.7 --

--

7.6

100

28.9

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INTERVIEW

Jakbrillo Udyog: We Can Process Any Textile Material Irrespective Of Composition Or Fabric Weight. every sphere and it has a huge potential in textiles and nonwovens. What are challenges you have faced while introducing the laser technology?

Jakbrillo Udyog LLP is incorporated. It launches patented nanotechnology solutions under the brand ‘Jaksmart’ which serve smart innovative products that have potential to solve highly lethal and perennial public health issues. Jakbrillo also launched itself in to textile value addition market with an innovative and unique printing technology under the brand ‘Jakstyle’. In an exclusive interview with Akshay Jakhotya, Managing Director of Jakbrillo Udyog LLP Tell us about your journey and inspiration to start Jakbrillo Udyog? My urge was to start an innovation based company. I have done my Msc from United Kingdom and the research culture I learnt there was something that inspired me to bring it to our own country. The idea was to develop products using novel and eco sustainable technologies. Laser technology has off late been used in

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The laser technology that we work with is relatively new in India and is still in a nascent stage for textile applications. There are challenges to make people understand how it will help them effectively whilst being sustainable and eco-friendly. In nonwoven and technical textiles industry, laser cutting helps to get the precise accuracy for complex shape cutting since we speak of functionality and specificity. Tell us about Jakbrillo laser operation unit? The Jakbrillo laser is a start-up and has its setup strategically located in Ichalkaranji, Maharashtra on the Mumbai-Bangalore-Chennai corridor. It has the setup of the most advanced laser technology for clothing in India. Besides, the company also deals with a patented Nanotechnology. Jakbrillo Group looks to expand its operation Pan-India and set-up regional offices in next year and half. Let’s talk about your products? We provide laser services for laser cutting, laser marking (printing) and laser engraving. Using our special machine set-up, we help to provide complex and specific shape cutting for technical textile and nonwovens.

This is highly used in automotive industry, industrial fabrics, sportech, sail cloth, parachute fabric, etc. With us, it’s all about creativity with functionality. For instance, the regular poly bags that are made in volumes in packtech industry, we also provide cut-work designs to increase their appeal along with functionality. Besides we also do lot of laser cut garments, curtains, cushions, carpets and laser printing on garments. Our set-up is one of a kind in whole India and thus we have USP in all our works. We have the infrastructure that can process up to 2 meters wide rolls continuously and provide most accurate and consistent cutting or printing at the competitive prices. We are a quality driven company and hence do not compromise on the quality of our services. Which market are you focusing on the most? We have the initial focus to provide our laser services across India. The vision however is to go global in time to come. Your future plans for Jakbrillo in the next 5 -10 years? In the next 5 years, I aim to make Jakbrillo the best innovation based company in India which will be known to bring in products and services that help to solve our everyday common problems and make life and products surrounding us more safe and beautiful.

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September 2017


INTERVIEW

It’s the First Time We Have Introduced Texprocess In India And Received A Good Response participating in it this time. The main focus was to present selected brands and to further observe the Indian Market as per their requirement and need. In Indian Market Texprocess has a different concept and thought. What all challenges you face to introduce Texprocess in India?

Techtextil is an international Show. Techtextil India has been a quite positive show this year, as the size, exhibitors and visitors have increased from the earlier edition. The response has been positive and Texprocess workshops had gone pretty well. It’s the first time we have introduced Texprocess in India. Techtextil was first introduced in 1986 in Germany, while Texprocess was introduced in year 2011, so it’s still young. In conversation with Michael Jänecke, Director (Brand Management Technical Textiles & Textile Processing) Messe Frankfurt Exhibition GmbH. How was the response for the first Texprocess Pavilion at Techtextil India held in India for the first time? The response is positive in general. The people here are open minded and accept new things. Texprocess is very well established in Frankfurt and the United States. The co-location of the Texprocess pavilion with Techtextil India resulted in intense synergy and has created the foundation of what is to become independent co-located platforms for technical textiles and garment machinery in the coming years for India. Texprocess Pavilion at Techtextil India witnessed few exhibitors on the stand? Since it’s a new concept in India, we had around 12 to 15 exhibitors representing approximately 30 brands

September 2017

The challenge we face is to reach new markets with their processes, potential and individual situation. Texprocess is quite positive due to its combination with Techtextil and it has worked out because generally people know Techtextil very well. In one single platform you can demonstrate your product, skill and technology altogether. Texprocess and Techtextil both are different shows? One is highly technical and another is garment related? How do they complement each together? Meanwhile Techtextil has its focus on technical textiles and textile technology regarding all the production processes until the finished roll good, while Texprocess presents the whole range of processing technologies starting from the rolled textiles that can be used for Garments, Home Textile and Technical Textile as well. Both trade shows together present the entire spectrum of the textile value creation chain at one single spot. At the last press conference you mentioned about the collaboration with AEPC & CMAI, any progress? We had a meeting with them in April. They are looking for new technologies for better results, more productivity at lower cost by saving natural resources like water, land etc. April was rather late with regard to Techtextil and Texprocess in May in Frankfurt. We will for sure continue with our talks with regard to future events. What is the Growth of Texprocess?

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We are on the first step of Texprocess in India. There is still a lot of work to be done to further develop the platform in India, to attract more visitors and exhibitors and to establish Texprocess firmly in the Indian market. Visitor for Techtextil and Texprocess is different or the same? Both, as the processing of textiles is independent from the industry. Users of technical textiles like car producers will find technologies for their needs as well as garment manufacturers. The benefit for all of them is that at the same time they can also find information about latest textile materials. In Germany and the USA companies like Boss, Adidas and Nike are already benefitting from the combination of Techtextil and Texprocess. Techtextil has marked its 6th Edition. What is the growth in India as per Technical Textile is concern? The consumption of Technical Textile in domestic market is much lowerthan other nations. So we have to identify needs. However, I think, it is not a question of information but how the Indian industry implements this knowledge into marketable products. And there are positive developments: CoE is also doing investment in Technical Textile in Telangana, it’s purely helpful for the industry with a great contribution. Techtextil is the International Show and a brand. Where does India rank internationally? India stands at number fourwithin our shows. We have Germany in the lead, followed by China, United States and India respectively. Techtextil India 2017 sets with 174 exhibitors a new record. The same counts for the visitor side with over 5,400 visitors. Overall, all Techtextil shows are growing.

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SPECIAL REPORT

Where Is The Rupee Headed 60 Or 70? Let’s rewind a little to the beginning of 2017, when Rupee was on the brink of breaking 69 against the US$. The expectations in the market then were that the Rupee would soon break the 70 mark, the US Dollar index would attempt 110 and that the US 10 year yields would head higher to 3.5%. There was a lot of anticipation around the new US president’s populist policies stoking inflation and ultimately pushing the US yields and the US Dollar higher (popularly known as the Trump trade). These expectations were justified then as market participants felt that it would be a cakewalk for a Republican president with a Republican majority in the Senate and a Republican majority in the House of Representatives to push through legislative reforms. Of course it did not pan out that way and Trump trade fizzled out. The thing here is that expectations and views can definitely go wrong but it is important how quickly one reassesses the big picture and positions accordingly? How quickly one gets rid of what behavioural economists refer to as the anchoring bias? How quickly one realises that a move is not a retracement but a reversal? How quickly one gives up hope of Rupee going to 70 (in this case)…when it is at 68, 67 or 66 on the downside? As the Indian economy gets more integrated into the global fabric, it is important to closely track global economic and political developments to capture the market pulse and sense key macroeconomic shifts earlier than others do. What the US Federal Reserve does or what happens in Capitol Hill directly impacts the Rupee. In fact, the move from 69 to 63.55 can be attributed largely to yield seeking hot money inflows. It has got little to do with domestic macroeconomic strength in my opinion. As the Trump trade/reflation trade collapsed, so did the US yields. Pursuit of higher yields drove money into emerging market stocks and bonds, causing the curren-

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cies of these economies to appreciate (also referred to as carry trade). Rupee has appreciated in line with other Asian currencies such as the Korean Won, Taiwanese Dollar, Thai Baht. India, on account of its sound fundamentals and stable governance has been one of the biggest beneficiaries of hot money inflows but not the only one. Certainly when the global liquidity tide turns (unwinding of carry trade) India would not remain insulated and Rupee would depreciate in line with other currencies then. What substantiates the opinion that the Rupee rally has got little to do with domestic factors is the fact that most of the high frequency data such as PMIs, IIP, core sector data have pointed to deceleration in domestic industrial activity post demonetization. The output gap continues to remain negative, which indicates that there is excess capacity. The economy is operating below its potential output and therefore private capex cycle is not picking up. Growth in credit off take is at a multi-year low and continues to remain sluggish. Corporate earnings growth has also not picked up to warrant current exorbitantly high stock valuations. What makes India’s fundamentals appear robust are a combination of three factors; low global crude prices, strong Rupee and normal monsoons. These three factors combined have kept a lid on inflation, resulting in high real rates and this is what is continuing to draw inflows, especially into the debt markets (The debt market utilisation limits are running close to 100% for FPIs for both government as well as corporate bonds). There are other concerns on the domestic front as well such as the NPA situation of banks and fiscal deficit of states. Though the centre may achieve its fiscal deficit target for the financial year, finances of state governments are in tatters and may deteriorate further due to farm loan waivers, increase in MSPs and implementation of pay commission. The

combined fiscal deficit of state and centre is therefore alarming. Though Rupee appreciation helps keep inflation under check, it poses aother set of challenges. Our exports priced in foreign currency terms become expensive if Rupee appreciates more in comparison to those of other countries which compete for the same share of export pie. In case of sectors where the cost of switching for the overseas buyer is low, it can severely hurt exports. Earlier government used to extend sops to such sectors by way of export promotion schemes, interest subventions, tax breaks etc. but as India is a signatory to the WTO (World Trade Organisation), it will eventually have to phase out such sops. Also, one-sided intervention by the central bank to protect the Rupee can be considered by trading partners as manipulative. Therefore the only ways for exporters to stay competitive is by improving productivity by differentiating product offerings and by hedging exposures efficiently.* What will continue to drive the Rupee going forward would be the yield differential between the US and India which in turn will be driven by Federal Reserve monetary policy to a large extent. Currently despite the US economy being close to full employment, wage and price pressures are moderate. This coupled with the inability of Trump administration to pass legislative reforms is allowing the Federal Reserve to hike rates gradually. Any spike in inflation or wage growth can drive up US yields and push the US Dollar higher. The Federal Reserve is likely to announce balance sheet reduction in September and may keep the December rate hike data dependent. Balance sheet reduction is likely to be calibrated and is not likely to be disruptive for the emerging markets. However, announcement of corporate tax re-forms could result in a reversal for the US Dollar. National

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September 2017


SPECIAL REPORT Economic Advisor, Gary Cohn has been categorical in stating that the US cannot have a higher tax rate than OECD average and that tax reforms is his number one priority this year. The RBI monetary policy will depend to a great degree on the pace of Fed rate hikes. If Fed indicates that pace of hike rates would be faster than what is currently factored in by the markets, it will be difficult for the RBI to cut rates from here on. Euro has thrashed expectations of those who felt parity with the US Dollar was inevitable. Though the ECB has indicated that asset purchases would continue well into 2018 and that rate hike would happen only after asset purchases have stopped, the Euro has rallied. This is because the business confidence and economic sentiment indicators of most of the Eurozone economies have improved and markets believe the ECB is behind the curve as far as monetary policy action is concerned. This macroeconomic shift has completely altered the view on the Euro and real

money institutions are buyers of Euro on dips. 1.20 is a key psychological level on the up side whereas 1.1490 would be a key support from a medium term perspective. The Bank of England has signaled that the pace of rate hikes would be more gradual as compared to previous hiking cycles due to Brexit related uncertainties. High inflation on account of weaker Sterling (Post Brexit) has reduced real wage growth and this could hurt consumption in the UK. Sterling continues to remain a sell on rallies due to uncertainties around Brexit negotiations. 1.25 is the likely target on the down side. A break above 1.3250 would require a reassessment of this view. As far as Rupee levels are concerned; as we saw in the beginning of this article; in February market expectations were skewed to the up side (towards 70 and above). At this point too the expectations are skewed albeit in the opposite direction (towards 61-62). A break above 64.90 would imply a reversal and may require us to shed

Durbagi Creates Innovative Designs For Personalised Towels And Bathrobes Company name: Durbagi’s Brand Name: Towel kingdom Brand Tagline: Value For Money Segment: Home Textile Brand USP: Bespoke Towels and Bathrobes Durbagi’s journey started with the famous outlet ‘Candies’ locate in Bandra on 14th February, 2014. Our core strength lies in innovative designs and craftsmanship -perhaps one of the finest in the industry. After a lot of R&D, we figured that there is a great demand for personalised towels and bath robes, which indeed is a growing segment in home textiles. Owing to the increasing demands, we started creating designs week after week, keeping in mind the festive season right from Ganesh Ustav to Easter which comes in April.

our anchoring bias again. In order to benefit from a sudden spike in Rupee, exporters can consider hedging their exposures through a combination of forwards and options. For example, hedging a part of the exposure through forwards ensures that for-ward premium or carry is not missed out on and hedging the other part through zero cost risk reversals ensures that down side is protected and upside participation is retained (in case Rupee breaks out on the up side).

Abhishek Goenka

CEO & Founder IFA Global)

WALL OF FAME

Doggie Expo at Colaba, where we discovered that pet lovers are ready to spend lavishly on their pets rather on themselves. We have significant clients from UAE, Singapore, Hong Kong and UK, who repeat their orders every 4 months. We strive to be an ISO certified company and keeping the spirit of make in India, hence we use only the best mills towels. Our vision for future is to participate in exhibitions in other cities and foreign countries and focus on exports. Our future plan is to take the brand outside India and promote it with Make In India label, with a vision to be competitive, innovative and creative.

We have exhibited in nearly 250 exhibition and have a huge client based mainly housewives who tend to gift their family and friends. We have exhibited in the 1st

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EVENTS

SAG Participates In India-Bangladesh Cotton Co-operation Buyers Seller Meet To Strengthen Bonds Between The Two Nations Spinners Association Gujarat (SAG) participated in IndiaBangladesh Cotton Co-operation, Buyer – Seller Meet organised at Dhaka on 17th September with the sole objective to enhance the relationship and strengthen the mutual trust in business between the two countries. Eight Indian dynamic leaders who attended the meet are Bhavesh Thakar, Secretary General of Spinners Association (Gujarat) and Textile Excellence (TE- Gujarat Office), Bharat Patel, MD of Jaymala Spintex Ltd and Galav Worldtrade Pvt. Ltd., Tapan Ghelani, Director of Bhavani Cotspin Pvt Ltd, Tushar Sheth, MD of The Cotton Trade India Co., Haresh Jani, MD of Krishna Natural Fibers limited, Ashok Monsara, Owner of Gajanand Cottex, Sunku Radesh Kumar, Owner of Sirdi Sai Enterprise and Shantilal Ostawal, Owner of Cotseed Corporation Bhavesh Thakar from SAG and Textile Excellence welcomed all the delegation from India and Bangladesh. He started his speech with the enormous potentials and opportunities for healthy trade. The challenge is to develop the lost trust and harmony in business to make the atmosphere healthy to trade. India being the largest and best quality cotton producer / Supplier whereas Bangladesh, being the largest cotton consumer, having full-fledged forward integration chain of textile up to RMG. Being the neighboring countries, Supply Chain Management lead time can be reduced and on-time deliveries will take on the priority. Hence, a relationship is purely based on trust which will help both the countries to overcome malpractice at either ends, further to meet the global challenges and objectives of growing together with prosperity by supplying quality and withstanding the stakeholders. Other delegates from India presented about India and Bangladesh’s Importance for cotton and textile business with coming season production, consumption estimates that revealed about current scenario of cotton business

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and created clear conception about Indian cotton production, quality and capacity. They highlighted some challenges between India and Bangladesh cotton trade - Indian cotton quality and weight shortage issues, Bangladesh payment and banking system, Bangladesh land route high congestion (Traffic), India-Bangladesh logistic cost, Indian quality cotton procurement issues and Indian cotton procedures, literacy problem in international business transaction and due to more traders are involved. It was also pointed out that the issue of India-Bangladesh Cotton arbitration support in case of default in delivery, Payment as well as non-payment of quality and weight shortage claim and timely commission payment. India has cotton future exchange like China and USA for buying and selling cotton on spot or future market hedging for domestic and international buyer and supplier. India can provide the support for hedging in Indian cotton exchange, storage of cotton in warehouse and direct delivery under the norms like ex-Ginning factory, F.O.B port and C.I.F from India. Joint Director of Bangladesh Bank, Md. Nazrul Islam rightly mentioned in his presentation that Trade and trade finance is very important for Bangladesh. At present, Bangladesh facing competition from China and Vietnam, so Bangladesh is modernising/ upgrading their operational efficiency, IT capacity and automation in their central banking system which will eradicate the allegations made for payment procedure. In an innovative open discussion session, constructive arguments held on issues faced by both the countries and solutions sorted for long term business between India and Bangladesh. Mehidi, Managing Director Sincot (BD) and Member of Bangladesh Cotton Association (BCA), said “We had a lot of bad experiences in the issues of cotton procurement such as desired quality with competitive price, contamination and weight. Due to the business pol-

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September 2017


EVENTS icy and practice of new cotton suppliers we have bad experiences and imperfection about Indian cotton towards Bangladesh cotton traders. We should work together with Bangladesh Cotton Associations and Indian Associations to resolve this burning issue to be counterpart of cotton business development of both countries.” After the conference, some delegation members along with Bhavesh Thakar visited two major RMG sector associations from Bangladesh , i.e. Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA) and Bangladesh Garments Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) to invite for the upcoming major IndiaInternational Exhibitions i.e. ITSE (Indian Textile Sourcing

Exhibition / www.itsexhibition.com) & ITMACH India (2nd International Textile Machinery & Accessories Exhibition / www.itmach.com) Indian and Bangladesh associations discussed about the Challenges & Opportunities for the bilingual business relationship & role of Associations of the two countries for their members to prosper together. SAG - association invited Bangladesh delegates to visit the ITES and ITMACH in coming December 2017, to explore the hospitality served by the association. To know more about association and its activities to be a part of the community visit www.agsa.org.in

Techtextil India Gives Impetus To India’s Technical Textile Revolution With Debut Texprocess Pavilion And Business-Oriented Programmes A high level of energy, business networking and dynamic synergy was seen atthe 6th edition of Techtextil India where 173 exhibitors from 11 countries showcased a gamut of technical textile solutions to 5,436 visitors from across the country. Smart future textiles, recycled fibers, sustainable alternatives, welding, wearables, functional solutions were among some of the highlights on the showfloor. Closing its three-day run with positive impressions, the 6th edition hosted a series of business and knowledgeoriented features as well as the successful launch of Texprocess in India. The co-location of the Texprocess pavilion with Techtextil India resulted in intense synergy and has created the foundation of what is to become independent co-located platforms for technical textiles and garment machinery in the coming years for India. Pleased with the fair’s expansion into garment machinerysegment and resultant visitor footfall, Martin Legner,

Head of Technical Textile Product Management, Stoll said, “The number of meetings we have had are far beyond my expectations and the quality of people coming in is much better and diverse. We have met many well-established companies as well as spinning companies who are interested in change overs, recieved positive response from the medical industry and in the next edition we hope to see more participation from automotive and sports sectors. We are definitely waiting to come back the next time Texprocess takes place in India.“ Director of the renowned Killer Jeans brand(Kewal Kiran Clothing Ltd), Dinesh P. Jain, who was visiting the fair said, “Visiting Texprocess has been insightful and gave me a chance to see the new technologies on display by our regular vendors. I am looking at initiating new orders soon with exhibitors here.” Techtextil India growth vision

symposium

highlights

industry

Led by industry visionaries, the symposium hosted 18 sessions covering a wide range of topics from global trends to domestic market focused subjects like protectiveagrotextiles, aerospace applications, advanced composites, fibre innovations and smart textiles. The full-packed hall saw 130 high-profile speakers and delegates from Garware Wall Ropes Ltd, Ginni Filaments Ltd, Grasim Industries Ltd-Birla Cellulose, Reliance, SRF Ltd, Strata Geosystems (India) Pvt Ltd etc, who took advantage of the platform to gain insights on new applications and market outlook. Sharing his experience, Manoj John, Vice President – Strategic Initiatives, Sutlej Textiles and Industries Ltd said, “We were here to see if there are any high-tech technologies that we can invest in and the topic which discuses about Carbon Composites seemed very interesting. We also liked the topic that discussed

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EVENTS about coatings and finishing in fabrics. They are good value adds for our business.” Presenting a new concept for smart wearable textiles at the symposium, Saumil Shah, Co-founder & VP - Institution Sales, Broadcast Wearables Pvt Ltd who was one of the speakers at the last session explained, “We chose Techtextil India to publicise the launch of our wearable LED shirts and the response has been encouraging. Delegates have shown interest in this new concept and we have acquired good leads with whom we can initiate trade in the coming months.” Having met potential partners at the fair even in previous editions, he added, “We were also here last edition and had some very good discussions and are in the advanced stage of closing deals with a few renowned brands whose contacts we acquired from the fair. It works both ways for my business as I not only acquired leads but could also use this platform to source fabrics and raw materials for my product.” In conjunction with the symposium, the special telecast of Dornbirn MFC was another first and was highly appreciated by sector players for providing access to the plenary lectures that the industry looks forward to every year. While several exhibitors could not attend this due to the busy schedule at stands, visitors were seen taking advantage of this new feature at the fair. Partner State Telangana explores long-term global cooperation As the Official Partner State for Techtextil India 2017, Telangana highlighted its policies, potential and textile park at the fair and concurrent symposium. The positive prospects and leads acquired during the three days has ensued a close co-operation with a proposed MoU to be signed between the state of Telangana and Messe Frankfurt for global outreach and promotion of state policies. Mihir Parekh, Director, Department of Handloom and Textiles, Government of Telangana said, “The Telangana state is developing Kakatiya Integrated Mega Textile Park in Warangal over an area of 1,200 acres with full complement of high quality trunk infrastructure. Through this partnership with Techtextil India and Messe Frankfurt India, we want to reach out to this niche sector and invite them to explore the immense growth opportunities that Telangana has to offer. We have acquired good leads and look forward to partnering with them to create a roadmap for technical textiles in Telangana.” State representatives from Andhra Pradesh, Madhya Pradesh and Uttarakhand also visited the fair to explore the investment potential in technical textile industry. Organisers bring together Centres of Excellence to foster R&D within the sector

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Standing as the true representation of the industry, Techtextil India also brought together the Centres of Excellence to steer research, ongoing developments and exchange of ideas within the sector. Among the stakeholders represented at the fair were: 1. SITRA: The South India Textile Research Association dedicated to Medical textiles applications 2. BTRA: The Bombay Textile Research Association dedicated to Geotextiles applications 3. ATIRA: The Ahmedabad Textile Industry’s Research Association dedicated to Geotextiles applications 4. DKTE: DKTE Society’s Textile & Engineering Institute dedicated toNonwovenapplications 5. SASMIRA: The Synthetic and Art Silk Mills’ Research Association dedicated to Agrotextile applications 6. PSGTECH: PSG College of Technology dedicated toIndutechapplications Dr U K Gangopadhyay, Executive Director, SASMIRA said: “Techtextil India has given a platform to the eight Center for Excellence units to foster research and development within the sector through networking. Market creation is the biggest challenge since technical textiles are an important element at every walk of life. There has to be national level awareness on seamless movement between government and the industry where Techtextil India can play a major role.” Held biennially in India, the next edition of Techtextil India will take place from 10 – 12 October 2019 in Mumbai and continue its focus on the 10 product groups and 12 application areas of technical textiles.

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September 2017


WALL OF FAME

Jaybharat Group: We Believe In Delivering Quality Brand name: Jaybharat Company name: JB Ecotex LLP Brand Tagline: Fibre Reincarnated Segment: Recycle Polyester Staple Fibre Market Share of your Brand in your segment: 12.50% Market Share approx in recycle polyester staple fibre market in India Brand USP: High Tenacity Fibre with all qualities parameters near to virgin. Black Fibre is having all colourand other quality values near to Virgin Polyester Fibre. Branding Strategies: To be consistent in quality, strong quality control measures, regular feedback from customers/spinners, best service with best quality in segment We at Jaybharat Group are always open to new ideas. There is serious threat to the environment due to solid waste particularly the plastic waste. With the launch of Swachh Bharat Abhiyan in 2014, we observed that there is strong need for a recycling industry to make India a clean and better place. So we worked on many ideas about recycling waste, but to start a business in private sector it should be commercially viable business. As we are in to textile business since long hence we came to conclusion that recycling of waste PET Bottles into Polyester Staple Fibre would be more suitable to us as we have good technical knowledge, experience, and contacts in the industry and at the same time we can contribute to protect the environment. We started working on said project in January 2015 and started production from October 2015.

polyester staple fibre in India. We are first manufacturer in India who produced 1 Denier in recycle polyester staple fibre. Within 6 months from the start of commercial production we achieved 100% capacity utilisation and now i.e. within 2 years of start of commercial production we are going to double our production w.e.f. October 2017. Our new plant is also in state of art plant with latest technology, now we have target to produce black and other colours of recycle polyester staple fibre. We are sure that our product i.e. recycle dope dyed polyester staple fibre, will be best in Indian market due to technological advantage. Vision for reaching for next level After start of commercial production of our new plant during October 2017, we will be third largest producer of recycle polyester staple fibre in India. Our installed capacity will reach to 150 tons per day. Our CMD, JitendraArya has stated the company with a vision to become second largest producer of recycle polyester staple fibre in India within next 5 years after Reliance Industries Ltd. Further the group also have a vision to enter in to manufacturing of recycle filament yarn. Off White (Natural) & Milky White (SDL)

Dope Dyed Black

Challenges / Hardship you faced during the journey: 1. Selecting the technology which can produce best quality textile grade fibre i.e. high tenacity fibre. 2. Our project requires 90 tons of waste pet bottles per day, which numbered to approx 4.50 millions waste bottles per day. The collection of such huge quantity of pet bottle waste was very tough. Our team has worked day and night to create strong network of collection centre across the country.

Optical White (OB White)

Dope Dyed Colours

Achievement till date We have produced the best recycle polyester staple fibre in Indian market. All the Quality parameters of our fibre are almost equal to virgin polyester staple fibre. At present we are number one as a quality producer of recycle

September 2017

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WALL OF FAME

RSWM EDGE: Yarns In Over 70 Plus Fibers In Any Blend Or Count Imaginable. Brand name : EDGE Company name : RSWM Segment : Yarn

tionalities like moisture wicking, UV protection and others in products, emphasizing on sustainable yarns and processes to deliver on consumer requirements,while encouraging the active lifestyle from added advantages.

“Dawn of the fabric revolution is upon us and the world is advancing into the age of aware consumerism demandingtextiles that can do much more than just cover the body.

Eight technically advanced spinning facilities and a dedicated research and development team, equips RSWM’s EDGE yarn range to satisfy these consumer needs. Launched in 2016, RSWM EDGE confers technical resources, versatility to manufacture a plethora of products and develop new fabrications from innovative fibers sources like bamboo, modacrylic, seaweed, Cupro®etc.

Consumers today are realising the importance of asking questions before buying and this leads to an increased sense of ingredient awareness. The modern consumer wishes to be aware of what went inside a product for they know that it all starts with the yarn.

Working along Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS),the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) and the Fairtrade Foundation, RSWM EDGE ensures that the quality of products is nevercompromised while sustainability standards are set and met.

Functionality, sustainability and traceability are the driving factors of their purchases and they thus inquire before buying as to what is the product made out of?What the product does? How it achieves the aforesaid?Does it have any quality reassurance? Does it dry quickly?Is this product all polyester and going to pollute theenvironment? Does it keep odor at bay? ….

RSWM EDGE’S collection, of yarn blends have been categorized to pique consumer curiosity and bring a distinctive range of functional, sustainable and premium yarns to the table.

Reacting to this demand from consumers and raising further awareness about the role of ingredients in imparting functionalities and attaining sustainability,most industries today have started their own ranges in functional active wears and sustainable product lines.

Collaborating with textile industry leaders from manufacturing to finishing we ensure quality deliverance and development at each stage of a frictionless supply chain. Therefore here is an offering conceived, collated and categorised for the benefit of our customers to realise the potential inherent in the novel, transformational blends.

Functionality and consumer demands

Evidently, many industries today are employing the func-

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Innovation coupled with quality assurance, these are yarns that raise the ante up a notch from their ambitious inception and consumer appeal.

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September 2017


WALL OF FAME

‘Think quality, Think USTER®’ Brand name : USTER Company name : Uster Technologies AG Brand Manager: Joachim Maier, Marketing Manager Brand Tagline : Think quality Segment : Fibre and Yarn USTER became a global brand in textile quality control long ago. The company’s pedigree is unrivalled – more than 70 years’ expertise in testing and monitoring solutions dedicated to the production of the finest fibres, yarns and fabrics. Only USTER® state-of-the art technology can guarantee the comfort and feel of the finished product – as well as freedom from faults. ‘Think quality, think USTER®’ is the way to benefit from all that experience and applied knowledge. USTER is considered as a top-of-mind brand. Wherever textiles are produced, USTER® products are there – measuring, checking, reporting, analysing. All in the name of quality, and ultimately, dedicated to assisting our customers in their constant drive for efficiency and profitability. USTER’s staff works continually on innovative solutions to

September 2017

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make sure to be ahead of the game, by offering to customers the very latest options for all their quality testing and monitoring requirements. Think quality – truly and forever Quality – for USTER it’s a way of life, expressed outwardly in the“Think Quality” slogan. For customers along the entire textile chain, “Think Quality” is both an invitation and an opportunity. “Think Quality” is the USTER way of reaching out to industry partners, supporting them in the optimisation of their manufacturing operations, so that their products reach consistently the requested levels of quality – for higher value and greater profitability to them. Testing and quality control products under the USTER brand are unbeatable, covering both laboratory and online applications. “Think Quality” is a unique approach, made even more attractive by the integration of the unique USTER® STATISTICS, benchmarking data. USTER has a lot to offer: know-how, expertise, equipment and customer support – all world class, all recognized for USTER®‘s legendary status in the industry. For over seven decades, USTER has been THE premier quality reference point for textile producers, and that proud heritage is upheld today as strongly as ever – in the staff and the brand.

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WALL OF FAME

Huntsman: Pioneering A Sustainable Textile Industry Brand Name: Huntsman Company Name: Huntsman Textile Effects Brand Tagline: Pioneering a sustainable textile industry Segment: Provider of Dyes, Chemicals and Inks Huntsman Textile Effects offers end-to-end solutions across the entire textile value chain from processing chemicals, dyes, inks and finishing chemicals to textile solutions to meet the evolving needs of our customers. Huntsman Textile Effects has a strong heritage of innovation and continues to innovate while maintaining a focus on sustainability. We draw on our core pillars of Sustainability, Innovation, and Collaboration, working with all sections of the textile value chain in product development and processes to drive the industry towards a more sustainable future. Huntsman Textile Effects has a strong brand proposition through our three core pillars: Sustainability, Innovation, and Collaboration. We invest over 5% of our annual revenue in innovation. These innovative products help reduce the industry’s environmental impact and help our customers meet their sustainability challenges. We continue to drive innovation through our state-of-theart manufacturing and Research and Technology facilities to drive cost-effective solutions that help maximize productivity and minimise environmental impacts. We work with mills through our Productivity Improvement Program (PIP) which enhances operational excellence and differentiation for economic, technological and environmental sustainability. The program enables mills to optimise and standardize processes and work practices to gain maximum benefit from Huntsman technology and improve yield and product quality through sustainable practices. PIP helps reduce water and energy consumption, save time and increase production. It increases ‘Right First Time’ production output by 95% without additional capital investment.

and continued investment in innovation, customers can rely on Huntsman for quality products that deliver sustainable performance. Water scarcity is one of the biggest environmental challenges for the global textile industry, with issues such as quality of drinking water, reduction of groundwater, over-extraction and water pollution. In response to these challenges, we develop products that are innovative and sustainable, and which help our customers and the industry to solve environmental challenges. An example is Huntsman Textile Effects’ award-winning AVITERA® SE reactive dyes, which has a huge advantage in enhancing the sustainability of the textile industry. For dyeing 1 kg of cotton fabric, AVITERA® SE water consumption is 15~20 L, as compared to reactive dyes. AVITERA® SE can further save up to 50% water, 50% reduction in CO2 emissions, 20% reduction in the use of salt, and the process cycle can be shortened by 25%. Huntsman Textile Effects will continue driving the industry towards sustainability and a step change in innovation, providing sustainable solutions to deliver growth, promoting products related to sustainability, to achieve water and energy savings for the textile industry. We will continue to work together closely with our customers through a collaborative approach – working with brands to clearly articulate their requirements, ensuring their vendors commit to achieving them and supported by a chemical supplier like us. Together we can not only address the issues faced but also the equally critical aspects of water and energy use. Huntsman collaborates with brands and retailers to fully understand the broader implications and the ways in which the correct use of dyes, chemicals, and inks can achieve high performance and drive down water and energy usage.

Huntsman’s innovative range of dyes, chemicals, and inks consistently produce right-first-time results, helping to optimise and shorten the manufacturing process and enabling our customers to save costs, reduce waste and conserve water and energy. With more than 700 patents

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September 2017


WALL OF FAME

Lenzing Group Produces World Class Fibers Brand name : LENZING Company name : LENZING AG Brand Tagline : Leading Fiber Innovation Segment : Fibre Innovation in man-made cellulosic fibres is one of the essential corporate elements of Lenzing’s success. Hence we constantly search for novel applications for our existing fibre portfolio. Lenzing fibre products are part of the natural cellulose cycle. One outstanding trait of our products is that they are highly compostable and fully biodegradable. The wood pulp used for our cellulose fibre products stems largely from sustainably managed sources certified by FSC or PEFC certification bodies. We therefore know the origins of our key forests and plantations and their methods of production. Own pulp and fiber productions using best available technologies giving highest resource efficiency and minimised environmental impacts.Manmade cellulose fibres are known today as premium products filling a special niche in the spectrum of fibres. Thanks to its ongoing technological advances, the Lenzing Group is the only producer in the world today globally offering all three generations of manmade cellulose fibres, viscose, modal and the lyocell fibre TENCEL®. TENCEL® is the newest generation of man-made cellulose fibres.TENCEL® fibres have optimum moisture management properties that make them appealing for use in high-grade home textiles such as bedspreads, sheets and pillow cases, but also in sportswear and outer garments for women. The environmental friendliness and biodegradability of TENCEL® fibres are essential market criteria for sensitive segments such as cosmetics and hygiene. Innovations in applications help to open up new market segments with existing products or to transfer existing technologies to new markets.

Lenzing Modal® Color as an alternative for plastic nets

biodegradable packaging for fruit and vegetables. This new packaging solution bears significantly positive environmental impact. Wood based cellulose nets are fully biodegradable, compostable, allowing it to re-enter the food life cycle. Studies with regard to the rate of being compostable were carried out in carefully controlled environments (Picture 1). TENCEL® new solutions for the footwear industry Fabrics and nonwovens containing TENCEL® provide excellent moisture properties. An outstanding characteristic of TENCEL® is the ability to absorb and release moisture, which results in a longlasting optimal foot climate. TENCEL® contributes to the reduction of odour causing bacteria within footwear components. An increased wearing comfort is guaranteed. Lenzing and a number of renowned partners are currently innovating footwear components like lining, inner lining, thermo-adhesive lining, paddings as well as insoles all focused on improved moisture management and requested technical performance. Meanwhile also laces, zippers and even sewing threads can be obtained from TENCEL®. Shoe manufacturer and designer can choose for a sustainable footwear parts portfolio offering enhanced moisture management opportunities without compromising performance and longevity of the product. TENCEL® Twines, the sustainable solution for growing fruits and vegetables Agro twines produced from TENCEL®, main for greenhouse use can be tailored to keep the required strength during the growth period of the plant, but being compostable after harvesting. With this unique feature it is possible to substitute plastic twines and wire twines. After harvesting period, no separation of the remaining plant and the twine is necessary. The residual biomass can be directly transferred to composting site, offering time saving and as well as cost reduction is an environmentally sustainable product.

One of these applications is the use of Lenzing Fibres for

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SURAT UPDATE GST concern : Unhappy Traders will not illuminate the market this year The texile traders will not illuminate the market during Diwali festival to mark their protest against GST. The market’s buildings will not be decorated with colourful lightings during the Diwali this year first time. The market said that the central government is not accepting the demands of the textile traders on the GST. The government is not supportive and traders have decided not to celebrate Diwali festival. The GST council again has neglected their demands. Except for the relief in e-way bill and abolition of reserve charge mechanism (RCM) till March 2018, the GST Council meeting has not accepted most of the demands put forth by the traders. Traders stated that they will not be able to take the benefit of the composition scheme as the turnover for the scheme has been raised from Rs 75 lakh to Rs 1 crore per annum. Most of the traders, even the small one, will not be benefited by the scheme. The GST Council has given relief to taxpayers by filing quarterly returns, provided his turnover is less than Rs 1.5 crore per annum. In the textile sector, Rs 1.5 crore turnovers per annum is very common. Even a small trader will have this turnover. The turnover limit must be 5 crore. Moreover, wholesaler will get credit of tax collected by small traders after three month, this will enhance burden.

2-3 Weeks Diwali Vacation In Textile Industry The MMF based textile industries of Surat will observe two to three weeks long Diwali vacation this year. After the Goods and Services Tax (GST) implementation, the MMF textile business has gone down drastically. As the demand for saris and dress material decline, grey fabrics production has gone down by 50%. Many small and medium traders have been hit hard. Almost 25% of small power loom weaving units shut due to the implementation of GST. The sources of weavers association said, the GST has broken the spine of power loom sector and weavers have unanimously decided to go on long Diwali vacation from

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October 18. The weavers and traders are unhappy with provisions made in new GST regime and govt. has refused their relief demand. They believe that GST has ruined the textile trade. Entire textile industry is passing through a rough patch due to GST’s implementation. As the demand is down, the fabrics manufacturers will cut the production and will shut their units for 2-3 weeks after Diwali.

Traders Demands Level Playing Field For Mmf Sector The textile traders of the city are still confused over new Goods and Service Tax(GST) system and are afraid off high duty rates. Once again traders are demanding level playing field to the MMF sector vis-a-vis the cotton sector. At present, the GST on MMF yarn is 18%, while that on cotton fabric is 5%. The higher duty structure on MMF fabrics has enhanced the overall production cost and business ratio in comming down day by day. The textile traders and processors has made a presentation for level playing field for MMF sector to sectoral co-convener of GST Council Yogendra Garg last week here. The group of traders said that the central government has divided the MMF and cotton sectors by keeping separate GST rates for yarns and fabric. Currently, the GST on MMF yarn is 18%, while that on fabric is 5%. Whereas, for cotton yarn and fabric, the GST rate is uniform at 5%. They demanded that the council must seriously consider providing a level playing field to the MMF sector vis-a-vis the cotton sector. Polyester fabric is known as the fabric of poor. Surat’s textile sector manufactures Sarees and dress of low cost. On the other hand, the cotton fabric is for the elite class. They said that entire polyester textile sector is facing a lot of difficulties and challenges due to the differential GST structure for the MMF sector. Most of the weaving units doing job work has almost shut the shops. More than 50,000 workers have been rendered jobless in the last two months. They have requested keep the GST rates uniform in both the sectors. They explain that If the GST rate in both the sectors are uniform, then the textile sector will have a level playing field in the consumer market.

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September 2017


FASHION

Priyadarshini Rao Launches Autumn Winter Collection In Association With LIVA Crème Priyadarshini Rao, leading Indian Fashion Designer has launched this season’s exclusive autumn winter collection in collaboration with LIVA Crème, a cellulose fiber by Birla Cellulose which is 100% natural and man-made. The collection previewed in Moscow and now in Mumbai spells uniformity, consistent quality, high purity, optimal linear density and staple length. It taps into the evolution of fluid design with eco-friendly biodegradable fiber. The color palette is earthy, neutral and soothing; bringing pieces of design that will tap the larger Indian fashion sentiment. The collection highlights on a play of different materials, stylishly recombining prints with design and unusual silhouettes. It also features a predominance of

textures like crush, pleats along with quixotic bloomy patterns checks which further integrated in a crochet with a palette of LIVA fabric Designer Priyadarshini Rao expresses, ”We are using new age Indian fabrics like modal, viscose and blends of both with various surface textures for our line being shown at CPM. The prints and the detailing are vintage India, but the silhouettes are contemporary and global. We hope the stores enjoy the mix of the Indian colours and prints on fluids shapes that can become great luxury piece in the wardrobe.

with Priyadarshini Rao is a powerful extension of our commitment to bringing great designers to our customers. We are sure this collection will set a new benchmark for future designs.”

Nelson Jaffery, Head of Design LIVA said,“We are collaborating with designers to enhance on a premium imagery of the brand and hence we have associated ourselves with likeminded designers. Our collaboration

Homey Sweaters, Warm Colours, And Pretty Prints: Yes, Fall Is Here, And So Is Satva Living! Solid black and grey maybe ruling your active/leisurewear wardrobe, but here is the time to change the monotone, as SATVA Living brings in free form patterns with a pop and bold collection. The collection introduces vivid graphic prints, with shades of blue, burgundy and mustard creating fall stories this season. The collection will see vibrant fall colours, trendy patterns with cosy and sustainable fabric. Rina Nathani, Head Retail, SATVA Living, said, “Adding boldness and warmth to the routine look, The season’s collection is a mix of contemporary designs with shades of blue, burgundy, and mustard. At SATVA, we care about every woman’s choices and preferences; and this time too, we have an assortment of wonderful designs and options that will ap-

September 2017

peal to our consumer’s tastes. As we expand the styles and collection, we have ensured the quality of the product is unaltered. It is the same comfortable cloth and skin friendly dyes that SATVA Living has always been known for. Sustainability being our hymn, the season’s collection is structured with recycled polyester.”

your gloomy wardrobe this fall and break the monotony of the everyday life with SATVA Living’s new collection.

The collection brings SATVA’s signature styled bralettes to tanks, cosy jackets to free-form tees, and closefitting capris to leggings. This edition is ideal for women with a distinct fashion sense. Bringing the warm yet feminine colours this season, the chic comfort wear does not only limit to visiting a fitness/yoga studio, but is ideal for extended choices to leisure activities – be it travel or even just casual outings. Spill some colour and prints on

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FASHION REPORT

Fashionably Digital- Brands Of The Future Disruption is a major buzzword we hear today in business discussions. It is a term we use when an innovation shakes up the market with a better value proposition, eventually disturbing the existing norms, causing a major shift in the business dynamics of the category. This comes from fresh thinking and very often we find that change comes through a thought process that is not affected by legacy issues and challenges within a category. Remember, Uber was not started by any of the big car rental businesses and Airbnb is not a platform from any of the hospitality majors! So when it comes to fashion, where are the big shifts going to be? The key word here is technology- definitely there are going to be tech enabled ‘smart’ garments with amazing features;other that products, where can technology revolutionise the business of fashion? The category is fundamentally about lifestyle and looks with new designs being churned out season after season. Consumers are getting increasingly hooked on to their mobile phones; disruption happens when there is a significant change in behavior across the category and they often come from a sharp reading of consumer habits. In this article let us focus our attention on how fashion business models could evolve in the internet era. How they buy rather than what they buy If we look around us, what are the new digitally influenced shopping habits we see? The mobile app that helps you book movie tickets, the platform that helps you discover restaurants online, those two big words that are becoming synonymous with the word cab, all household names right? Are we buying different products or services? Not really, it is after all, the same seat in a movie hall, or groceries from a nearby shop, or a cab that takes you to your destination that we are talking about. The change is not as much about what we consume, as it is about how we consume it. With our handheld devices playing a much bigger role in our lives,there will be a major impact on purchase patterns of fashion products, which in turn, will have a role to play in how brands reach out to consumers. I am a firm believer in numbers and therefore I feel doubly satisfied if there is datato support arguments that seem perfectly logical. There are many reports on the estimation of the Indian apparel market and trends regarding it. While most of them point to the same direction, I liked one particular research that I came across recently- the BCG-Facebook Fashion Forward, 2017. So the numbers I am quoting here have used information from that study along with some reasonable extrapolations. So what is the change we are talking about? The fast adoption of mobile phones and better internet connectivity at affordable prices are changing the habits

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of the young population in our country. We accept change when we find benefit in it. Visionary entrepreneurs have come up with solutions even before we realize that there is a problem. Technology has brought more power to our fingertips, literally. The pace of change in the recent years have been so immense that as the consumer evolves, technology also comes up with solutions giving way to new business models. We have moved from product orientation to services and now to platforms, which change the way we consume products. In the era of digitally enabled consumers, there are three distinct types of business models that are emerging. The first, and the most obvious one, is the business of brands that are built online. With the advent of digital technology, we can now get brands to engage as well as transact with consumers online. While this would be an obvious approach for a new brand, often we find that for brands with a legacy, there is heavy dependence on traditional practices and capabilities. For such businesses, the digital shift is easier said than done. However, as their consumers go online, these brands have no option but to be where their consumers go- to get into their mindspace as well as in getting them to buy your products. The second model, one that has a lot of relevance in a scattered retail landscape like we have in India, is of a platform, which brings together a buyer and seller of a product or a service. Some of the coolest brands of today, like Uber or Airbnb, belong to this model where the platform owner does not own the inventory. A lot is already being spoken of these models and they are totally revolutionizing con-

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September 2017


FASHION REPORT sumption patterns the world over. The platforms we hear about are the ones that have truly made it big, and there are alarge number of such businesses, which are trying to get established; many of them will fail and as consumers, we will never get to hear of them, forvariety of reasons. Where I would like to dwell a little more into, is a third model which brings the large retail landscape to your mobile phone- one that helps you discover what is available in brick and mortar stores- like Zomatofor instance. This form of business, called O2O – Online to Offline - by pundits, is projected to be a huge business driver in India because of the retail spread here. Given the nature of fashion as a category, how big can O2O get in our country? To answer this let us look at what numbers tell us. The Indian Apparel Market The table below shows the Indian Apparel market and the level of brand-play and online influence in it. ‘Online Shopping’ indicates e-commerce and ‘Online Influence’ indicates purchases other than online shopping where the internet had played a role, mainly in searching and demand creation. Assuming that most of the online influenced sales will be in the branded space, we can expect around 2/3rd of all branded apparel sales in 2020 to be digitally influenced.

The numbers above indicate market size at overall levels; to understand how the revolution is no longer a restricted phenomenon, let us look at some more numbers. The table below shows how the digital revolution has cut through urban India.To understand the terms better, here is a quick reckoner

y Digital Footprint: Fashion buyers with Internet access y Digital Influence: Using Internet during any stage of purchase process y Digital Buyers: Buys fashion online What the numbers indicate is that from a mere 1% of

September 2017

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fashion buyers who purchased online in 2013, the number rose to 16% in 2016 and is expected to be 33% in 2020. One-third of all fashion buyers will do their apparel purchases online too, by 2020. The digital footprint goes up from 20% in 2013 to a whopping 87% in 2020; this indicates that a huge proportion of urban fashion shoppers will enjoy quality Internet connection by 2020. Online Influenced Behavior While there are pure offline and pure online shopping behaviors, we can expect the digital influence on shopping to happen in certain parts of the purchase process, leading to the involvement of both ‘brick’ and‘click’ in the purchase of a particular garment. Consumers can look for specific styles online, understand trends using the internet, even figure out what sort of products are selling where and then proceed to a shop to buy. This leads to what experts call Webrooming –the practice of searching online and buying in a store. Theantithesis of thisis calledShowrooming- a term used when a consumer checks out a product in a store and then buys it on the net. Given the nature of thefashion category, where factors like tactile feel, fits and appearance matter a lot, and the variety in the product range is high, the practice of completing the purchase cycle in a store will always be predominant. What could change is the influence of digital browsing involved in the shopping decision. There will be applications that will evoke interest and facilitate online search, before the customer walks out tomake a purchase. More evolved brands are already planning to get deeper into the Omni channel way- offering a seamless experience to their customers across online and offline spaces. The table below has divided the brick and click interplay into four types of purchase processes; the data is for the branded apparel segment.

Vishnu Govind

Brand Consultant & Startup Mentor Founder- ADD Valorem Consulting

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SUSTAINABLE FIBRES

Clothing From Groundnut Fibres The natural protein fibres, silk and wool possess so many attractive properties that they have always served as quality fibres in the textile industries. Similarly the natural plant fibres like cotton, flax, ramie etc., have established their own importance in the textile industries. But nowadays man-made fibres are getting importance in the textile industry like Viscose, Tencel, Modal, Casein, Soybean fibres etc. In the coming years these fibres are going to occupy the leading positions in the textile manufacturing. As these fibres are having both the properties of natural and synthetic fibres, they are going to have an added advantage. They can be easily blended with both natural and synthetic fibres. The proteins made from animal fibres come from the proteins in the plants that are eaten by animals as they food. These plants proteins differ from animal proteins in the detailed structure of their molecules. But all proteins are basically similar in chemical design. All protein molecules are in the form of long threads of atoms. Plant as well as animal proteins are therefore able to satisfy the first requirement of a fibre –forming material. In 1935, Prof. Astbury and Prof. Chibnall gave an idea to ICI, U.K. that fibres can be made by dissolving vegetable proteins in urea and extruding the solution through spinnerets into coagulating baths. The regenerated protein fibres made in the mid-twentieth century were basically developed as a substitute for wool. For the production of protein fibre, the main emphasis was given to the commercial availability and their usefulness for textile purpose. Theoretically any protein – containing substance may serve as a starting material and the protein may be extracted from it. There are four proteins, which are more important as the source for fibre formation. y Casein fibre from milk y Zein fibre from maize y Soya fibre (glycinin) from soybean y Groundnut fibre (arachins) from groundnuts y Ardil from peanuts One of the most likely sources of vegetable protein for fibre production is groundnuts, which grow as a staple product in many of the hot, humid regions of the world. Groundnuts (peanuts, monkey nuts) are used in large quantities as a source of the Arachis oil required for making margarine. The meal remaining after removal of the oil contains a high proportion of protein. This protein was regarded as a potentially suitable source of vegetable protein. The nuts contain around 25% of protein and is good and cheap resources for protein fibre.

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Experiments were carried out and a process was developed for making the groundnut protein fibre which is now known as ‘Ardil’. The fibre was first made at Ardeer in Scotland and the commercial production started in 1951. Production of Groundnut Fibre Groundnuts are cultivated in India, China, West Africa and Southern States of U.S.A. After harvesting, the nuts are shelled or decorticated. The red skins are removed from the shelled nuts, together with foreign matter such as small stones and nails. There are five main steps to produce groundnut fibre are: Extraction of oil to obtain oil - free meal The nuts which contain about 50% of oil are crushed and pressed. About 80% of the available oil is squeezed out, leaving the oily groundnut meal which is reduced in breaker rolls and passed through flaking rolls. The thin flakes pass via a series of buckets on an endless chain into an extraction plant. As they pass through the plant, the buckets of meal are subjected to a thorough washing with solvent (Hexane) which removes the remainder of the Arachis oil. Extraction of protein The extracted meal is heated under low pressure in steam jacketed pans to remove residual solvent. It is then cooled, screened, weighed and bagged. This is a special technique for removing oil from groundnut meal was devised to provide protein suitable for fibre production. The groundnut protein is extracted from the meal by dissolving it in caustic soda solution. The residue after extraction is a valuable cattle food. Then acidification of the protein solution precipitates the protein, which is the raw material from which fibre is spun. Preparation of spinning solution The spinning solution is prepared by dissolving the extracted protein in aqueous urea, ammonia, caustic soda and solutions of detergents. Caustic soda is used for dissolution. It is allowed to mature under controlled condition for 24 hours. During the maturation, the viscosity of the solution increases and attains the spinning characteristics. The solids content of the protein is between 12 -30%. Fibre formation Groundnut fibre is formed by wet spinning method. The solution of groundnut protein is filtered and pumped to spinnerets, through which it is extruded at constant rate into an acid coagulating bath. The spinneret holes are typically of 0.07 – 0.10 mm diameter. The coagulating liquor consists of a solution containing Sulphuric acid, sodium

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September 2017


SUSTAINABLE FIBRES sulphate and auxiliary substances. The temperature is maintained between 12 to 40 degrees Celsius. After treatments As the filament is being spurned, it is stretched to increase the alignment of the protein molecule. It coagulates to a filament that is weak and flabby when wet and brittle when dry. At this stage, the filament dissolves easily in dilute saline solution and in dilute acid and alkali. After leaving the coagulating bath it is treated with formaldehyde to harden and insolubilise it and then dried and cut into staple fibre . Properties Tenacity, g/den Elongation ,% Density, gm/cm3 Moisture regain,% Acid resistance Alkali resistance Resistance to moth/fungus Refractive index Flammability

Groundnut 0.7-0.9 40-60 1.31 12-15 Excellent Bad Resistance to fungus but not to moth 1.53 Burns very slowly

Silk 1-1.5 25-45 1.34-1.38 11.0 Excellent Good Resistance to fungus but not to moth 1.54 Burns

Wool 1.5-2.0 25-40 1.33 14-16 Excellent Bad Resistance to fungus but not to moth 1.54 Burns slowly

Cotton 2-5.5 6-10 1.50-1.54 9 Bad Excellent Resistance to moth but not to fungus 1.53 Burns

Properties of Groundnut Fibre Groundnut protein fibres are generally similar to wool in that they are proteins in structure. They do not have the rough scaly surface of wool fibres and don’t under go felting in the way that wool does. Groundnut protein molecules carry many side chains and they cannot pack so closely together as the molecules of silk. Groundnut protein yields a relatively weak fibre, which is much more sensitive to moisture than wool.

Chemical Processing of Groundnut fibre Groundnut protein fibre has different physical and chemical construction from natural protein fibre, care is taken in the following steps: Scouring: During scouring the alkali concentration should be less as compared to other textile fibres and the temperature should be less than 98 degrees celsius. Wool type scouring conditions are suitable for 100% groundnut protein fibres and kier type boiling should be avoided while processing groundnut blended fabrics. Bleaching: It should be borne in mind that Sodium Hypochlorite and Sodium Chlorite cannot be used for bleaching of groundnut protein fibre because it causes degradation. Therefore Hydrogen Peroxide is the preferred as a bleaching agent. The dosage has to be decided depending on the quality of Groundnut fibre. Dyeing: Groundnut protein fibre is dyed with the same dyes used for dyeing of wool fibre like Acid dyes, Metal complex dyes, chrome dyes and few reactive dyes. Dyes are selected according to end uses of fibres and dyeing fastness. The dyeing method is just like dyeing of wool fibre. But the differences in protein structure result in different individual characteristics. In general, the affinity for dyes is higher than that of wool. It can be dyed in form of loose fibre, tops yarn hank and fabric (both knitted and woven).

Blending of Groundnut fibre The outstanding characteristic of groundnut protein fibre is soft, wool- like handle. The price of groundnut protein fibre is half the cost of wool fibre and it is used largely as a diluent fibre which provides wool-like characteristics at low cost. It is used in various worsted units along with wool and polyester and it is also used with cotton and viscose in various proportions.

Dr N.N.Mahapatra President

COLORANT LTD

“ Would you like me to give you a formula for success? It’s quite simple, really: Double your rate of failure. You are thinking of failure as the enemy of success. But it isn’t at all. You can be discour-

aged by failure or you can learn from it, so go ahead and make mistakes. Make all you can. Because remember that’s where you will find success.

-- Thomas J. Watson

September 2017

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BIO-TECH

Mulching In Agriculture What is Mulching?

proximate saving of 50% in the cost of fertilizer.

Mulching may be defined as the process of covering the soil surface around the plants to create congenial conditions for the crop growth. This may include moisture and soil conservation, temperature moderation, salinity and weed control etc. It exerts a decisive effect on earliness, yield and quality of the crop.

Quality produce

Types of mulch materials : The materials those may be used for laying over the soil may be organic plant residues, insert material like pebble etc. or and synthetic materials like plastics. Every material has got its marits and demerits. ADVANTAGES OF MULCHING Weed control As every plant requires a process of photosynthesis for generation of food, which requires sunlight, on using of plastic mulch film the weed plant which will be below the plastic mulch sheet, the sheet does not allow the sunrays to pass through it, as our film has a unique quality of reflecting back the sunlight, which will not allow the weed to grow. Moisture Conservation Plastic film with its moisture barrier properties does not allow the soil moisture to escape Water that evaporates from the soil surface under mulch film, condenses on the lower surface of the film and falls back as droplets. Thus moisture is preserved for several days and increases the period between two irrigations. • Plastic mulches also aid in evenly distributing moisture to the soil which reduces plant stress. • Savings in water is one of the greatest advantage with plastic mulch and such savings are found to vary from 20% to as high as 75%. The savings in water are more pronounced in dry areas. Reduction in the cost of fertiliser Basically water has the property to go deep into the soil (also called as leaching property), where as the roots cant go too much deep into the soil, when fertilizer get dissolved in the water because of the leaching property there is a huge wastage of fertilizer, the use of plastic mulch along with drip irrigation allows the dissolved fertilizer not to go deep into the soil and allows timely and evenly distribution of nutrients to the plant, which helps the plant to grow faster and healthier. Based on the above concept fertiliser use efficiency by the plant will be more than 95%, hence there will be an ap-

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Plastic mulches avoid the ripening fruits from direct soil contact. There by decreases fruit rot as well as keeps the fruit and vegetables clean. This gives quality produce and better marketability. Reduction in soil compaction The plastic mulch covering the soil decreases the crusting effect of rain and sunlight. The reduction in weed quantity means a decreased need for mechanical cultivation. Weed control between beds of plastic can be done using directly applied herbicides and through mechanical means. The soil underneath the plastic mulch stays loose and well aerated. This increases the amount of oxygen in the soil and aids in microbial activity. There by more active root zone will be developed. Reduction in root damage The use of plastic mulch creates a practically weed free area around the plant, removing the need for inter cultivation except between the rows of plastic. Root damage associated with inter cultivation is therefore eliminated. Due to these factors, the use of plastic mulch can lead to an improvement in the overall growth of the plant. Chimney Effect Carbon dioxide (CO2) is slightly heavier than air during night. The CO2 tends to stay low near the plant before it finally defuses into the air. The green leaves of all plants feed from CO2. They take out the carbon and release the oxygen. Based on the above concept some of the CO2 will be preserved under the mulch film during the night, during the day time because of heat the CO2 will become lighter and goes upwards through the mulch whole at the stem of the plant, there by reaching the leaves above, which helps effective photosynthesis. Soil Erosion Ideally soil erosion should be less than 4 to 5 tons/ha/ year. The reduction of water runoff and erosion is one of the greatest advantages of having a plastic mulch by intercepting raindrops, hence the valuable fertile soil( humus layer) will be protected. Earlyproduction The use of plastic mulch alters soil temperature. Mulch applied to the soil intercept sunlight warming the soil allowing earlier planting as well as encouraging faster growth early in the growing season. White mulch reflects heat from the sun effectively reducing soil temperature. This reduction in temperature may help establish plants

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September 2017


BIO-TECH in about 7-10 cm deep in small furrows at an angle of 45°.

in mid-summer when cooler soil might be required. Salinity management Pest control: Plastic mulches like silver have the property to repellent the sucking pests like white flies, moreover plastic mulches will reduce the effect of soil born pathogen. Soil Micro Climate: Mulches create a micro environment which alters plant growth and development. Plastic mulches affect plant microclimate by retaining soil moisture and changing rootzone temperatures and the quantity and quality of light reflected back to the plants there by altering the soil energy balance and restricting soil water evaporation, benefiting the plant growth and give better yield. Precautions In Mulch Layering y Do not stretch the film very tightly. It should be loose enough to overcome the expansion and shrinkage conditions caused by temperature and the impacts of cultural operation. y The film should not be laid on the hottest time of the day, when the film will be in expanded condition. Width: This depends upon the inter row spacing. Normally a one to one and half meter width film can be easily adapted to different conditions. Mulch Laying Techniques y Mulch should be laid on a non-windy condition y The mulch material should be held tight without any crease and laid on the bed y The borders (10 cm) should be anchored inside the soil CROP

YIELD

CROP

INCREASE (%)

Source PFDC Reports of NCPAH The economics of mulching depends on a) Cost of mulching material which again depends upon the thickness and longevity. b) Increase in yield c) Increase in return due to bringing additional area under cultivation. d) Differential market value of the product based on quality e) Cost of cultivation Limitations ƒ They are costly to use in commercial production when compared to organic mulches. ƒ Probability of ‘burning’ or ‘scorching’ of the young pants due to high temperature of black film. ƒ Difficulty in application of top dressed fertilizer ƒ Reptile movement and rodent activities are experienced in some places. ƒ More runoff ƒ Environmental pollution ƒ Difficult in machinery movement • Can not be used for more than one season using thin mulches • Weed penetration with thin films

YIELD INCREASE (%)

Musk melon

30-35%

Sugarcane

Water melon

30-35%

Mango

40-45%

Banana (1.5X 1.5)

45-50%

Citrus

15-20%

Banana (1.8X1.8)

15-18%

Grapes

40-50%

Papaya

75-80%

Guava

20-25%

Hot pepper

40-50%

Pomegranates

30-35%

Tomato

60-65%

Cotton

40-45%

Brinjal

20-25%

Areca nut

25-30%

Okra

60-65%

Ground nut

60-70%

Capsicum

35-45%

Jack fruit

25-30%

Cabbage

70-75%

Potato

35-40%

Cauliflower

40-50%

Coconut

70-75%

September 2017

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50-55%

Dr. S.Raman,

Freelance Consultant, Natural Resources Managemen

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YARN REPORT

Manmade Fibre Prices Up On Cost Support, Cotton Remains Flat To Low Polyester Fibre and Yarn Fibre price movements were mixed in September with man-made fibres moving up rapidly while cotton prices were subdued to marginally up across markets. They also supported spinners to adjust their prices in line with change in cost. Polyester staple fibre prices moved up after moving sideways in China while they were lifted in Pakistan and India. However, most PSF suppliers held stable offers in late September while some cut down offers slightly amid sidelined stance and feedstock under downward pressure. Overall, discussions were flat with moderate trading while some spinning mills closed units for holiday, leading to flagging demand. In China, 1.4D direct-melt-spun PSF offers in Jiangsu and Zhejiang averaged 8.72-8.89 Yuan a kg (US$1.33-1.35 a kg, up US cents 12 on the month). Export offers were heard at around US$1.17 a kg FOB China. In Pakistan, PSF prices rose sharply to reflect the rise of import offers from China, which was an opportunity for domestic producers to lift their prices. Margins of PSF producers also rose over a decline of material costs, as PTA and MEG prices are now retreating to lower levels. 1.4D PSF prices jumped to Pak Rs.131.25-132.25 a kg (US$ 1.25-1.26 a kg, up US cents 3), while import offers from China were at US$ 1.21 a kg CNF Karachi.

Polyester yarn offers jumped 7-8% in September in China while Indian yarn was dearer by 3% month on month. 32s yarn prices averaged US$ 2.00 a kg in China while 45s gained at US$ 2.14 a kg, both up US cent s 17 on the month). Polyester yarn made of recycled PSF also gained US cents 11-13 with 21s yarn at US$ 1.78 a kg and 32s at US$ 2.06 a kg. In Pakistan, polyester yarn prices were steady during the month in Karachi with 20s at Pak Rs 112 per pound (US$ 2.34 a kg) and 30s at PakRs 125 per pound (US$ 2.61 a kg). In India, polyester yarn 30 knit yarn prices gained INR 3.90 on the month to average INR 149.50 a kg (US$ 2.32 a kg, up US cents 4) in Ludhiana market. Cotton and cotton yarn Cotton prices were mostly flat to down across markets with US December futures falling in the last week but was up US cent 0.91 on the month to average US cents 70.14 per pound. The futures had jumped in the initial days of the month but fell later pressured by the approaching harvest in the US and fading concerns on unfavourable weather conditions in top producing state Texas. Rains in Texas had led to worries of a delay in harvest, which supported prices earlier.

In India, PSF prices were hiked mid-September to INR 86.75 a kg for 2D or US$1.33 a kg while 1.4D was at INR 86 a kg (US$ 1.32 a kg) and 1D to INR 87.50 a kg (US$1.34 a kg). However, weak currency limited the increased in prices in US$ terms.

Spot benchmark, the Cotlook A index partially regained US cent 0.75 to close at an average of US cents 80.19 per pound,or up 0.9% on the week. In China, prices for some fresh cotton picked up in line with higher purchasing prices for seed cotton, with offers at US$ 2.52-2.56 a kg or even higher in a few cases. On the month, the China Cotton Index inched up 0.5% at 15,971 Yuan a ton.

Recycled PSF markets were mixed but prices were up taking cue from the virgin fibre markets. In Jiangsu, selling ideas for 1.5D virgin�like recycled PSF averaged US$ 1.161.19 a kg while recycled 6-15D 2-dimensional, hollow, siliconized PSF saw selling intentions averaging US$1.10-1.16 a kg while export offers were at US$ 1.15-1.22 a kg FOB.

In Pakistan, cotton prices drifted in line with global trend and easing supply. The official KCA spot rate fell Pak Rs 48 on the month to average Pak Rs 6,195 per maund exKarachi. Reports indicated that the market was moving on the international track and trading activity was good as the mills and spinners were trying to replenish stock.

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September 2017


YARN REPORT In India, cotton prices nosedived amid hope of good yield losing INR 450-3,540 per candy over the month. Experts opine that prices can go further down when arrival starts picking up around Diwali across mandis in the country. The increase in acreage compared to previous year and a bumper crop prospect are the biggest factors that can stabilise cotton prices at around or even below the MSP. This kharif, MSP for the medium staple fibre of 27.5-28.5mm length is fixed at INR 4,020 per quintal. The Indian Cotton Association expect about 35 lakh more bales this year and prices to come down further. Arrival had started in midSeptember in Punjab and nearly 4,500-5,000 bales are arriving in mandis every day. Cotton yarn prices apparently stablised in China amid modest trading sentiment although conventional specs like combed 32s and 40s saw moderate transactions. In

India, cotton yarn prices edged down, recording a 6% fall in September. In Pakistan after the impact of lower cotton prices, yarn prices were relatively stableon the Faisalabad yarn market, irrespective of the fresh level of demand from the yarn processors. In China, cotton yarn prices were stable with 21s combed US$ 3.45 a kg in Shengze and 32s at US$ 3.77 a kg). In India, 30s combed cotton yarn for knitting were INR14.20 cheaper at INR 200 a kg or US$ 3.10 a kg, down US cents 25 on the month in Ludhiana. In Pakistan, cotton 30s carded rolled over at PakRs145per pound (US$ 3.03 a kg) in Faisalabad market while finer count 40s in Lahore was traded up at Pak Rs 174.90 per pound (US$ 3.66 a kg) while 60s gained at Pak Rs. 239.50 per pound (US$ 5.00 a kg, up US cents 12 on the month).

SHOW CALENDAR

October 2017

December 2017

07-09 Garmek Panipat/ Haryana https://10times.com/garmek

5-7 China Machinex India/ China Homelife India Mumbai/ Maharashtra www.chlmx.com

13-17 IHGF Delhi Fair Autumn 2017 Delhi/India www.ihgfdelhifair.epch.in

7-10 ITMACH India/ ITSE Exhibition Gandhinagar / Gujarat www.ITMACH.com / www.ITSexhibition.com

29-31 Screen Print East Africa Nairobi/ Kenya www.screenprinteastafrica.com

January 2018

November 2017

9-12 Heimtextil Frankfurt/Germany www.heimtextil.messefrankfurt.com/frankfurt/en.html

1-3 International Textile & Apparel Show Dubai/ UAE www.internationalapparelandtextilefair.com

15-18 TEHRANTEX Tehran/ Iran www.tehrantex.com

3-5 Garknit X Science City/ Kolkata

19-22 UDYOG 2017 Surat / India www.sgcci.in

15-17 INTEX South Asia Colombo/ Sri lanka www.intexfair.com 16 Digital Textile Symposium Mumbai/ India http://catnewtech.com/DTS2017/ 17-20 Texfair 2017 Coimbatore / India www.simamills.org/texfair/ 24-27 YFA Show 2017 /ATME 2017 Delhi/ India www.yfatradeshow.com / www.atmeindia.com 27-30 Shanghaitex 2017 Shanghai/ China www.shanghaitex.cn

September 2017

www.textilevaluechain.com

February 2018 2-3 TexNovation Mumbai/ India www.texnovation.com March 2018 13-15 FILTECH Cologne/ Germany www.filtech.de April 2018 14-17 ITM 2018 / HIGHTEX 2018 Istanbul/ Turkey www.itmexhibition.com / www.hightex2018.com 19-21 TPF Digital Printing Shanghai/ China http://2016.cstpf.com/en-us/index

37


FABRIC REPORT

Yarn And Fabric Exports Are Apparently Recovering Fabric down

exports

decline

slowed

After prolonged period of sharp declines, woven fabric shipments fall tapered to 2.4% in terms of volume in August, and remained positive in value term. Shipments aggregated 382 million sq. meter during the month valued at US$ 328 million or INR 2,070 crore. During the first five months of 2017-18, total woven fabric exports were at 1,720 million sq. meter, down 5% year on year. In August, 141 countries imported woven fabrics from India, with Bangladesh being the largest importer, followed by UAE and Sri Lanka. The three together accounted for 28% of total woven fabrics export during the month. During the month, 10 countries did not import any fab-ric from India as they did last year. However, they were replaced by 23 countries which import-ed fabric worth US$ 3 million this August. Afghanistan, Uzbekistan, Cote D’Ivoire, Nepal and Hungary were the fastest growing markets for woven fabrics, and accounted for 5% of total value exported in August. Woven fabrics made of 100% cotton accounted for 49% of all fabrics exported, worth US$160 million (INR 1,010 crore) with volumes at 172 million sqmtr. The average unit price realization was at US$ 0.93 a sqmtr, about 10 cents more than a year ago. Plain fabrics accounted for 65% of all kinds of woven fabrics exported in August 2017, while denim was the second largest woven fabric exported in August (US$ 35 million), posting an increase of 22% in volume year on year. They were mainly imported by Bangladesh, Egypt, Turkey, Guatemala and Lesotho. Denim exports to these markets were worth US$ 24 million. About 48% of all woven fabrics ex-

38

ported were of medium weight (>136 <281 GSM) worth US$ 1598 million while light weight (<136 GSM) were valued at US$ 129 million (39%). Medium weight fabric were mainly exported to Bangladesh, USA and United Arab Emirates, while light weight fabrics were exported mainly UAE, Afghanistan and Sri Lanka. Yarn exports growth positive Spun yarn export shipment reversed the falling trend in August, largely due pent up volume of June and July and a low base of previous year. Yarn export were hovering above 100 million kgs until June 2016 and thereafter it trickled down below 90 million kgs apart from more than 125 million kgs reported in December 2016 and January 2017. Exports aggregated 95 million kgs in August 2017, up 17% year on year and 22% in value at US$ 304 mil-lion. Unit value realization averaged US$3.21 per kg, up US cents 9 from previous month and US cents 14 up compared to August 2016. Cotton yarn was exported to 80 markets worth US$ 240 million (INR1,535 crore) and volumes at 73 million kg. The aver-age unit price realization was at US$ 3.31 a kg, US cents 8 more than previous month and US cents 16 up from the same month a year ago. China remained the largest importer of cotton yarn from India in August, followed by Bangladesh and Portugal. 10 countries did not import any cotton yarn from India this August as they did last year. However, they were replaced by 18 countries which imported yarn worth US$1.90 million. Chile, Czech Republic and Turkey were among the fastest growing markets for cotton yarn, and accounted for 4% of total value of cotton yarn exported in August. 100% man-made fibre yarns export was at 7.3 million kg in August, comprising 4.4 million kg of polyester

yarn, 2.7 mil-lion kg of viscose yarn and 0.2 million kg of acrylic yarn. Polyester yarn exports jumped 50% in value while viscose yarn exports value plunged 23% during the month. Acrylic yarn exports were down 69% in August. Polyester spun yarns were exported to 45 countries in August with average unit price realization at US$ 2.37 a kg. Turkey was the largest importer of polyester yarn, followed by Brazil and Egypt. Viscose yarn worth US$ 8.4 million or INR53 crore was exported in August, implying average unit price realization of US$ 3.15 per kg. Belgium was the top importer worth US$ 1.75 million, followed by Iran with imports worth US$1.3 million. Blended spun yarns worth US$ 42 million were exported in August, up 20% YoY in both volumes and value terms. During the month, 7.9 million kg of PC yarns was exported worth US$ 20 million. Another 4.7 million kg of PV yarns were exported valued at US$13 million. Turkey and Brazil were the largest importers of PC yarn from India in August followed by Bangladesh while, Turkey was the largest importer of PV yarns from India followed by Pakistan. For complete report please contact Textile Beacon, nitin@textilebeacon.com

Nitin Madkaikar

Textile Beacon

www.textilevaluechain.com

September 2017


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Sep 2017 issue  

Diwali Special

Sep 2017 issue  

Diwali Special

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