MARCH 2022

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VOLUME 10 | ISSUE NO. 03 | RS 100 | Pages 87

MARCH 2022

Smart Textiles

Smart Textiles – Next Gen Fashion Statement or Technology Integration

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CONTENT

Table of

59

12 17

37 COVER STORY

Smart Textiles – an Overview Smart Textiles – Next Gen Fashion Statement or Technology Integration

TEXTILE MACHINERY

20

Textile Machinery, Parts & Accessories Rise of the Phoenix!

24

How to Boost Exports of Textile Spare Parts & Accessories

REVIEW PAPER : ECO FRIENDLY DYEING

28 33

Technology for Textile Dyeing Using Supercritical Fluid

Second-Hand Clothing as a Sustainable & Fashionable Lifestyle

INTERVIEW

37 41 44

Each Fabric is Assembled with utmost precision

Itema Weaves Huge Hopes in India We are creating our own brands: Ronak B. Chiripal

SPECIAL FEATURES

51

54 57 59

Face Mask in the New Normal: Material, Manufacturing & Testing

EVENTS BSE Hosts Special Meet By Cotton Guru Shujaul Rehman, CEO of GTFL, appointed VC of CII Pune

Resource-saving in Textile Processing: A Successful Webinar

SWISS TECHNOLOGY

9 TVC | MARCH 2022

61

Fascination of Narrow Fabrics: Jakob Muller’s Digital World

62

Saurer: Strides in Digitalisation

CORPORATE NEWS

65 66

BRÜCKNER presents many products for nonwovens at IDEA 2022

68

Uster’s Quality Management Platform Makes a Huge Difference to Shopfloor Personnel

70

Basant Fibertek Doubles Capacity

72

SPGPrints/Stovec launches “DART” to start-ups in digital textile printing

73 74

Oerlikon Barmag celebrates its 100th anniversary

Full Automation from Roll to Finished Product

SHOW CALENDAR

INDUSTRY UPDATE

76

Textile export volume still down in January

77

Textile fibre dearer in February due to cost push

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Path to Sustainability

SUBSCRIPTION Online Registration https://textilevaluechain.in/subscription/

A few years back, an entrepreneur from the textile industry watched with fascination at an exhibition shelf containing PET bottles and yarns and clothes kept beside them. He was impressed by the transformation of PET into clothing, and he vowed to bring the technology to his plant in India. Today, he has a profitable production unit that turns PET into yarns. Some years ago, I listened to a presentation by a German industrialist about pollution by textile industries. From his cabin he saw billowing smoke from his factory chimney, and he visualised his own future generation getting choked by it. Within a couple of years, he changed the process to the least harmful one to humans despite opposition from other directors. He also demonstrated the profitability of benevolent processes in the production. Today, most of the industries are shouting hoarse about sustainability. Textile is one of the most polluting industries, and sustainability is not just using sustainable materials and efficient processes alone. The textile industry must follow diligently the track of sustainability at every step of its production.

The textile chain gobbles up a huge amount of water and energy, along with the use of various chemicals and harmful substances. Most of the textile industries discharge a huge amount of harmful waste, posing a threat to the very survival of living organisms. Sustainability has to embrace many factors and a holistic view is vital.

The textile industry is the second largest sector of global trade market with the figure estimated to reach US$1,230 billion by 2024, from US$920 billion in 2018.

“Green consumer” is a reality now. We see a lot of second-hand clothing in the market, even from well-known brands. Consumers must be educated well about environmental degradation and also the need to buy such clothing to alleviate the burden of landfills and waste pile-up. In 2015, United Nations members adopted the 2030 agenda for Sustainable Development, which consisted of 17 Sustainable Development Goals (SDG) for various industries. The textile industry adapted 5 out of these 17, which we’re related to – Climate Action, Gender Equality, Responsible production & consumption, Clean Water & Sanitation, and decent work & economic growth. Textile companies worldwide are actively contributing to pollution-reduction practices and setting up emission targets for controlling climate change.

Companies should implement manufacturing practices which cuts carbon footprint, invest in R&D to use sustainable raw materials and turn out environ-friendly finished products. The fast fashion must give way to a ‘slow fashion’ challenging growth fashion’s obsession with mass-production and paving the way to diversity. Sustainability should become an important tenet of corporate mission of each & every textile company, the aim of which is to turn today’s wave into a big tide of tomorrow!

10 TVC | MARCH 2022

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Cover story

Smart Textiles – an Overview

Dr. G. Nagarajan, Sr. Technologist Texcoms Textile Solutions, Singapore

Ms. Anusuya A, Associate Consultant Texcoms Textile Solutions, Singapore

Abstract In the twenty first century, product and machinery developments have taken place in all the fields of engineering and technology. Similarly, textile is also not lagging behind the pace of development when compared to other engineering discipline. Many researches both in domestic and at international level has been done on the advanced textile applications like smart fibres and smart textiles in the recent years. This article disseminates the informations related to smart fibres and textiles, their application areas like medical care, protective clothing, shape memory textiles, sports textiles etc. No doubt that smart textiles have wide application and prospects in the near future similar to the smart phones.

Keywords: Smart fibres, smart textiles, shape memory textiles 1.0. Introduction The concept of Smart textiles was proposed from University of Virginia United States to Japanese scholar in the year 1989. He integrated information science into the material and developed smart materials. The term smart textiles mean intelligent materials. Smart textiles mean the textiles that are able to sense stimuli from the environment, to react to them and adapt to them by integration of functionalities in the textile structure.

The stimulus as well as the response can have an electrical, thermal, chemical, magnetic or other origin. The first applications of smart textiles can be found in clothing. Smart clothing is defined as a new garment feature which can provide interactive reactions by sensing signals, processing information, and actuating the responses. They are capable of showing significant change in 12 TVC | MARCH 2022

their mechanical properties such as shape, colour and stiffness, or their thermal or electromagnetic properties, Typical examples of smart textiles are fabric and dyes that will change their colour where the clothes are made out of conductive polymers which give light when they get electromagnetic signals. They also regulate fabrics the surface temperature of the garments in order to achieve physiological comfort. The first smart textile material was silk thread which has a shape memory.

2.0. Smart fibres a. Shape memory fibre Shape memory fibres are referred to a fibre which possesses shape memory effect. It means that when a deformed fibre is given some external stimulus by means

of pressure and temperature, the deformed fibre would return to its original shape. Shape memory fibres include shape memory alloys, shape memory hydrogels and shape memory polymers. However, shape memory polymers have more advantages than shape memory alloys in terms of their characteristics like high recovery from strain, easy processing, low cost and low density. b. Photo- chromic fibre They are photo sensitive colour changing substances which has organic compounds containing isomers. Such photo- chromic fibres undergo reversible configuration under the action of light. The discolouration is under the action of irradiating ultra violet light or visible light spectrum which causes certain compounds to undergo changes in their molecular structure or electronic energy levels to form new compounds with different absorption spectra.

f. Health smart fibre Health smart fibres are developed for the enhancement of people’s awareness against anti-bacterial, safety and impact resistant fibre. Among them selective anti-bacterial fibre (smart fibre) will inhibit or kill the surface bacteria by the addition of anti-bacterial agent. “Nylstar” a smart polyamide fibre developed by the US have long anti-bacterial effect and safer too by incorporating anti-bacterial agent into the fibre.

3.0. Applications 3.1. Shape memory textiles

Shape memory textile is a kind of material with shape memory function introduced into textile through weaving or finishing. The Italian company Corpo Nove designed a “lazy shirt”. When the outside temperature is high, the sleeves of the shirt will automatically roll from the wrist to the elbow within a few seconds; conversec. Optical fibre ly, when the temperature drops, the sleeves can autoA kind of composite fibre which can enclose light energy matically recover and can also be automatically ironed. and transmit it in a wavelength mode. It is also called as Shape memory fabrics can be developed into fashions, smart fibre and provide excellent transmission perfor- protective clothing and accessories with different funcmance. Optical fibre consists of two parts, a code and tions. With the in-depth research on shape memory a cladding. The core is 1 to 10 micrometre in diameter materials and the further improvement of textile profor single mode silica glass fibre surrounded by 1.25 cessing technology, shape memory functional textiles micrometre cladding whose refractive index is slightly will be further developed. smaller than that of the core. The optical fibre is coat- 3.2. Colour-changing textiles ed with a protective layer of an outside diameter of approximately 250 micrometre. When light rays incident Color-changing textiles refer to textiles that can display on the core-cladding boundary is at angles greater than different colors with changes in external environmenthe critical angle, the light rays undergo total internal re- tal conditions, such as light, temperature, pressure, flection and are guided through the core without any etc. With its unique properties, color- changing textiles are widely used in various fields. Civilian can be used refraction. to make fashionable color- changing clothing and evd. Temperature sensitive fibre er-changing decorative fabrics, military camouflage can Temperature sensitive fibres are the fibres whose prop- be used in military, anti-counterfeiting field can be used erties will change reversibly with temperature. The “ as anti-counterfeiting materials, widely used in bills, cerVentcool” fibre developed by Mitsubishi Rayon Corpo- tificates and trademarks. Color-changing textiles can be ration stretches instantly when the humidity is high and obtained by the following three methods: adding colorquickly crimp when the humidity is low according to changing fibers to the fabric; dyeing with color-changthe environment conditions. It means that the fibre has ing dyes; printing with color-changing paint. The fabric dynamic response to changes and is called as dynamic made out of color changing materials has good hand feel, good washing resistance and long-lasting discolorfibre. ation effect. e. Conductive fibres Conductive fibres possess excellent specific resistance and electrical conductivity, absorb electromagnetic waves, detect and transmit electrical signals. Conductive fibres can be rougly divided into electron conductive fibres, ion conductive fibres and inductive fibres.

13 TVC | MARCH 2022

3.3. Smart temperature control textiles

Smart temperature control textiles mainly include three types of thermal insulation textiles, cool textiles and automatic temperature control textiles. For thermal insulation textiles, the thermal insulation materials

developed are mainly solar thermal storage fibers and far- infrared fibers. The solar thermal storage thermal insulation fibers are used to achieve thermal insulation.

The principle is that the fibers absorb visible light and infrared rays from sunlight, and then heat radiation to the human body, and finally achieve the effect of heat preservation. Compared with sunlight thermal storage fiber, far infrared fiber has better thermal insulation performance. The reason is that it absorbs the heat emitted by the human body and radiates a certain wavelength of far infrared rays to the human body to reduce the loss of heat by promoting blood circulation, thereby achieving the purpose of heat preservation. Cool fabrics generally add metal oxides to polyester fabrics, and use metal oxides to reduce the possibility of clothing fading due to ultraviolet rays and light, and to ensure that the interior of the clothing is cool. Cool fabrics are especially useful for people who work in extremely cold environments (such as traffic police in winter) need clothes to warm them and display safety signals at the same time, which is very meaningful to them. Based on such requirements, there is a great need to develop smart textiles that integrate thermal regulation and light-emitting functions, and use advanced coaxial electro spinning to realize light-emitting temperature- regulated smart textiles.

3.4. Self-cleaning textiles

care also. Wearables can be used to collect data on a user’s health such as • Heart rate • Blood pressure • Walking steps • Time spent on exercising A recent development made on the smart fabrics is more beneficial for the persons who do exercise in gymnasium. The smart T- shirt has hidden letters like Time to stop” which will not be visible in the normal condition.

After exercising in the gym, the sweat produced on the body is absorbed by the T-shirt and the hidden letters begin to appear informing the wearer to stop. Currently, other applications in health care are measuring blood alcohol content, measuring the sickness, athlete’s performance etc. Although smart textiles are in use, they can only collect data from the user about his well-being but for not making decisions about one’s health.

3.6. Sutures in medical applications A suture is a length of fibre used to tie the blood vessels or to sew tissues together. A typical example is polypropylene fibre generally used as a suture material in eye surgeries for patients when corneal grafting is needed.

Many types of sutures are intelligent and absorbable materials as they hold the edges of the wounds together until the wound sufficiently heals. As the wound progressively heals, the tensile properties of the suture diminish and get absorbed into the body system. A few types of sutures are made from collagen of sheep or cattle intestine and are gradually degraded by enzymes in the body. Polymers of polylactic acid, poly glycolic acid, copolymers of polydiaxanone are synthetic polymers used as absorbable sutures in medical applications.

The trend of manufacturing self-cleaning coatings is nowadays a growing need which can remove both inorganic and organic pollutants through two different mechanisms: rolling water droplets and by photo catalysis. Rolling water droplets refer to the lotus-shaped or cauliflower-shaped surface, coupled with low surface energy, will form dirty particles on the surface of the fabric, causing the water droplets to roll off and absorb dust, soil, inorganic and organic pollutants. A contact angle of greater than 150 degree is required in this 3.7. Optical sensors in military applications mechanism. Photo catalysis is the decomposition of organic dirt by light, which can be easily removed during Fibre optic sensors are ideal components to be embedded in textiles structural composites. Such sensors washing. can be used to sense various battlefield hazards like 3.5. Wearable Technology and Health chemical, biological and other toxic substances used in Wearable technology wearable devices, smart electron- warfare times thereof in real time. The polyurethane – ic devices that can be worn on the body as implants diacetylene copolymer can be used as a photochemical or accessories. Such devices are activity trackers that polymer for chemical sensor applications. The passive enable objects to exchange data through the internet cladding of the optic fibre is replaced with these polywith humans or any other connected devices without meric sensitive materials and the sensory system is interequiring human intervention. A typical example is the grated into textile fabrics. Another development is the smart watch. Apart from the consumer electronics, it is pH sensitive sensor is also developed and woven into being incorporated in to navigation systems and health fabric for soldiers clothing.

14 TVC | MARCH 2022

Smart shirt developed by the Georgia Tech University is quite useful for detecting bullet wounds during the war.

It functions like a computer with optical and conductive fibres integrated into the garment. Plastic optical fibres are woven in the seamless shirt is mainly responsible for detecting the bullet wounds. These optical wires are connected to a diode at one end and a laser at the other end. Pulses of light received by the diode are analyzed by a circuitry and if there is any interruption of light to the diode helps to identify the exact location of the bullet in the body.

3.8. Smart fibres in fire fighting High performance fibres generally lose strength after exposed to high temperatures which undetected and in the worst case, can tear more precisely when the lives depend on them. Few examples are ropes used by firefighting brigades, suspension ropes used in construction sites. Researchers in Swiss have developed a special coating which changes its colour when exposed to high temperatures by friction or fire.

Coatings on the rope is made up of 3 layers that the fibre actually changes colour when subjected to heat. The first layer (base) is silver coated on polyester (PET) and high tech Vectran fibres. This serves as a reflector. The second layer is the intermediate layer, titanium-nitrogen oxide which ensures that the silver layer is stable. Thereafter follows the amorphous layer, a coating of Germanium antimony tellenium (GST) which is 20nm thick. This layer initiates the colour change when is subjected to elevated temperatures. At high temperatures, it crystallizes and change the colour from blue to white. The colour change is due to the physical phenomenon interference. Depending upon the chemical composition of the temperature sensitive layer, this colour change can be adjusted to a temperature range between 100 deg to 400 deg.

3.9. Market Overview and major players The global market was worth more than $2.5 billion in revenue in 2012 and is expected to cross $8 billion in 2018, growing at a healthy CAGR of 17.7% from 2013 to 2018. In terms of products, wrist-wear accounted for the largest market revenue in 2012, with total revenue of the most established wearable electronic products wrist-watches and wrist-bands combined, crossing $850 million. Smart textiles is now limited in the developed countries. It will be the next generation’s textile. So, there will be possibility of developing countries to earn huge profit. But they need more research and funding 15 TVC | MARCH 2022

as well as technologies to implement this innovation.

Some of the major players dominating this industry are E. I. Du Pont De Nemours and Company, Intelligent Clothing Ltd., Interactive Wear AG, International Fashion Machines Inc., Kimberly-Clark Health Care, Milliken & Company, Noble Biomaterials Inc., Outlast Technologies Inc, QinetiQ North America, Royal Philips.

4.0.

Conclusion

Smart fibers /smart textiles and their applications are research hotspots in today’s textile field, as well as future development trends. Smart textile materials are the backbone of high- tech functional textiles. The application of smart fibers and smart textiles is becoming more open and consumer acceptance is increasing.

The global market was worth more than $2.5 billion in revenue in 2012 and is expected to cross $8 billion in 2018, growing at a healthy CAGR of 17.7% from 2013 to 2018.

At present, the main application fields of smart fibers and smart textiles are: medical health care, military protection, firefighting, entertainment and sports, and clothing consumption. Moreover, it appears that this is only possible by intense co-operation between people from various backgrounds and disciplines such as microelectronics, computer science, material science, polymer science, biotechnology, etc. More research work is also emphasized on certain areas like high performance fibres and their utility.

References 1.

Huang M and Chu J 2018 J.Tianjin Textile Technology 6 43-6 2.

Yang L 2017 J.China High-tech Zone 5 60-1

3.

Melliand International, May 2021.

4.

X. Zhang and X. Tao, Smart textiles: Passive smart, Textile Asia, pp. 45-49, June 2001, Smart textiles: Very Smart, Textile Asia, pp. 35-37, August 2001.

5.

Textile institute, Smart Fibers, Fabrics and Clothing (Tao, X. Ed.), Florida: CRC Press, 2001.

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Cover story

Smart Textiles – Next Gen Fashion Statement or Technology Integration

By Avinash Mayekar, Managing Director, Suvin

S

Smart textiles are steadily becoming a part of our day-to-day life, which will be growing exponentially in coming days and they will set a new record of demands due to their innovative concepts

martness is the key of success… One may coin this phrase looking at the way things are happening around us. We, human beings, are considered to be one of the smartest species, and with the same smartness we invented the technology that made human life smarter and provided benefits larger than life. Today this technology has become a part and parcel of our life from Laptops/ Macbooks, smartphones to smartwatches we are surrounded by all smart gadgets.

We are reaching new heights of merging devices as lightweight wearables in the form of smart garments.

The merger of technology to the garments might be a concept yet to completely sync in, but we have come far ahead with small applications already accepted and being used to a large extent, especially in healthcare monitoring devices. Smart textiles have come a long way from medical assist robotics systems to medicine/ chemical infusing systems, nano monitors & embedded sensors, illuminating advanced functional textiles to embedded electronic systems in automobiles & wearable electronics. The smart textiles market is expected to grow exponentially at a CAGR of 23.2% from US$2.3 billion in 2021 to US$6.5 billion by 2026. (As reported in Markets & Markets International Paper)

either to high-performance and technical military gear or in the glamorous side of the globe the high-end fashion industry. Where dazzling & sparkling concepts have reached new heights with the use of illuminating & reflective smart textiles. And as it happens, the followers just copy such fashion and if it clicks, quantity just multiplies.

Smart textiles are however not that well-integrated and considered to be one individual piece in actual practice.

It is a combination of electronic circuits being an external component to the textiles in use. Need of the hour is to have a single integrated feature coined as smart textiles. However, there are some ground-breaking inventions in this sector, some of which are as follows: Translating stitch commands with Topo Knit

One such recent development is embedded smart textiles that help in translating the stitch commands. A team of researchers from Drexel University is translating the loops and twists of knitting into a digital architecture, for merging new technologies such as electronic circuits into textiles. One of the greatest barriers to having complete integration is the current software being used for the industrial design and production of textiles says Dr. David Breen, a professor at Drexel’s College of Figure 1: Source Markets & Markets International Pa- Computing and Informatics. This software is lacking the per & Suvin Analysis thread-level detailing essential in the digital sampling These smart textiles being such an innovative concept and precision manufacturing of fabric devices. have however found their usefulness primarily limited 17 TVC | MARCH 2022

A large 46 inch woven display

Advance Portable Exoskeleton

A team of scientists led by the UK’s University of Cambridge has developed one of a kind products that overcomes the limitations of manufacturing truly integrated smart textiles. They have produced a fully woven smart textile display that integrates active electronic, sensing, energy, and photonic functions. The functions are embedded directly into the fibres and yarns, which are manufactured using textile-based industrial processes into the fabric of the 46-inch woven display. With the success of this system, the researchers are amazed by the endless applications that can be commercialized.

They claim it is possible to convert this woven fabric into high-end curtains, TVs, energy-harvesting carpets, and interactive, self-powered clothing and fabrics. This is the first time that a scalable large-area complex system has been integrated into textiles using an entirely fiber-based manufacturing approach. The results are reported in the journal Nature Communications.

Though exoskeleton developments have come a long way there are new developments taking place in this space every day. All thanks to the ease and assistance it provides to the user. Recently a Hong Kong start up in Enhanced Robotics has proposed a model that weighs just 2.5kg which is said to be 85% lighter than traditional exoskeletons. It can provide walking assistance for 10.46 km on a single charge and is also equipped with an AIbased algorithm that rapidly learns the wearer’s gait and walking behaviour to adjust accordingly. Thus, preventing injuries and also amplifying the stamina of the wearer by manipulating the assistance force. The Sportsmate 5 is based on multiple high-strength composites. Using quasi-soft robotic architecture, the waist belt adjusts to any and as well as all body types via an electric inflatable airbag that fills the gap between the exoskeleton and the body to ensure comfort and stability.

Merging Technology with Fashion

Flexible Fibre Battery

MIT researchers have developed a rechargeable lithRecently we have seen innovation in smart textiles that ium-ion battery in the form of an ultra-long fibre that are a combination of both the Fashion & tech need. could be woven into fabrics. This battery could enable a These innovations take care of fashion, comfort & envi- wide variety of wearable electronic devices to be made ronmental care. We all know today’s gen is the one that without the monotonous shapes of the electronic debelieves in having everything customized to their per- vices or as we all associate a cylindrical-shaped battery sonality and their current mood and style. The need for hanging around. The long fibre makes it possible to make personalized merchandise & garments is the one that 3D-printed batteries in virtually any shape. To demonhas synced in the world across, what’s developing or strate the concept, MIT researchers have produced the trending is having merchandise that can adapt & change world’s longest flexible fibre battery – 140 meters long. to reflect the current mood & secondly gives the feel of Conclusion: something new every time.

So steadily smart textiles are becoming a part of our Colour Changing Automotive day-to-day life. The new generation is very much atThe recent development by BMW is in line with today’s tracted to smart application. They like to wear clothing gen needs, it showed a merger of technology that brings with their moods nicely decorated on the apparels. The different colour pigments to the surface skin of a vehi- concept of smart t-shirts, hoods as well as trousers porcle. It showcased an extraordinary new technology at traits that ones can truly reflect the design as per their CES 2022 in Las Vegas, during January 5-8. It specially custom needs and secondly gives them the freedom to developed a digitally-activated body wrap for vehicles change the design as & when their mood change. So, a that enables the driver to adapt the exterior shades of t-shirt that will help them portray what their like is the a vehicle to different situations. This development apart buzz that will catch up just the way Instagram filters and from aesthetic pleasure to the user comes from deliver- effects are dominating & used widely by all ages across. ing the best temperature feel to the users. In summers Moreover, latest developments in various other applicastrong sunlight heats the vehicle motor and causes dis- tions related to science, sports, automobiles and other comfort to the passenger compartment making it diffi- technical textiles are very much in demand and explorcult to maintain the temperature set inside the car. This ing new heights. Smart textiles will be growing exponencan be reduced by changing the exterior to a light col- tially in coming days and they will set a new record of our. In cooler weather, the dark outer skin will help the demands due to their innovative concepts vehicle to absorb noticeably more warmth from the sun.

18 TVC | MARCH 2022

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Weave it right: spot defects on the loom

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The whole fabric is automatically monitored – warp, weft, selvage and leno – and faults are identified immediately. LED s signal defect locations to the weaver, with information shown on the control unit touchscreen. It’s automatic inspection, in-process and instant, so weavers can react to prevent long-running or repeating faults.

USTER ® Q- BAR 2 sets the future standard, controlling the weaving process instead of the output.

TVC | MARCH 2022 www.uster.com/qbar 2 19

Textile Machinery Textile Machinery, Parts & Accessories

Rise of the Phoenix!

By Sachin Kumar

Executive Director Textile Machinery Manufacturers’ Association (I) The estimated production, export and import figures above signals a sharp rise in production by +52% (RS. 8056 crore), in exports by +70% (RS. 5250 crore) by scaling up its peak figures in 2017-18 of RS. 6900 crore and in 2018-19 of RS. 3665 crore respectively.

T

he global Covid-19 pandemic struck a complete structural disruption around the world throughout 2020-21. The current fiscal year too started on a gloomy note when the second wave of the deadly disease broke out across the globe causing fresh havoc. It appeared that the renewed lockdown measures to contain mass population, industry and the institution from contracting the pandemic didn’t yield much result as there were mixed reactions from different quarters of the polity, community and decision makers globally on the issues of sustaining lives versus economies. While the developed countries including India were successful in developing the Covid-19 vaccine and initiating the mass vaccination programmes, the rate of inoculating the populace proved insufficient.

The chart below substantiates the claim here.

The estimated production, export and import figures above signals a sharp rise in production by +52% (RS. 8056 crore), in exports by +70% (RS. 5250 crore) by scaling up its peak figures in 2017-18 of RS. 6900 crore and in 2018-19 of RS. 3665 crore respectively. Whereas the imports may also scale up its peak to RS. 11500 crore in However, just like the bouncing back of the Indian Tex- the current fiscal as against RS. 10834 crore in 2018-19. tile Engineering Industry (TEI) in Q3, Q4 of the 2020-21, Most interestingly, the exports by the Indian TEI have the Indian TEI rose to the occasion again right after the risen from 37% of the domestic production in 2016-17 wash-out of business in Q1 2021-22. As reported earlier to 65% in 2021-22 (Est.), whereas the imports by the

by TMMA(I), the Indian TEI managed to reduce its annu- Indian TEI have marginally come down from 152% of al production losses in the year 2020-21 by -5% only to the domestic production during the same time period Rs. 5093 crore from Rs. 5355 crore in 2019-20. Whereas, to 143%. The domestic demand met by the indigenous the reported figures as on date have already surpassed production could be seen rising to 22% in 2021-22 (est.) an estimated production figure of about Rs. 8000 crores. from 20% in 2020-21.

20 TVC | MARCH 2022

Export figures of Textile Spares and Accessories: It is estimated that the export of the spares and accessories will rise by 55% to RS. 1600 crore in 2021-22 as compared to RS. 1029 crore in 2020-21.

Production figures of Textile Spares and Accessories: While delving more into details on the value-wise overall production data of different categories of the industry during the last 6 years including the estimated figures for 2021-22 as on date; the spares and the accessories segment also has topped its consumption level. While Import figures of Textile Spares and Accessories: the 2020-21 reflected the lowest production of RS. 777 Similarly, it is estimated that the import of the spares crore, the current year may witness it rising to RS. 1229 and accessories will rise by 33% to RS. 2500 crore in crore, a rise of +58%.

2021-22 as compared to RS. 1881 crores in 2020-21.

Category

2016-17

2017-18

2018-19 2019-20 2020-21

Spinning & Allied Machines (8444 & 8445)

3615

3815

3625

2545

2522

2021-22 Est. 5000

Synthetic Filament Yarn Machines (8445) Weaving & Allied Machines (8446)

400

385

400

350

278

200

900

885

890

715

454

600

Processing Machines (8445, 8448 & 8451) Misc. (Spinning, Weaving & Processing, Jute) Machines (8448) Textile Testing & Measuring Instruments (9024) Hosiery Machines/Hosiery Needles(8447, 8448)

635

650

750

655

884

900

30

35

25

30

29

2

100

130

165

165

100

75

65

80

85

80

52

50

TOTAL OF MACHINERY

5745

5980

5940

4540

4318

6827

SPARES & ACCESSORIES (8448)

905

920

925

815

777

1229

GRAND TOTAL

6650

6900

6865

5355

5095

8056

% INCREASE/DECREASE

1%

4%

-1%

-22%

-5%

58%

21 TVC | MARCH 2022

Description

2016-17

2017-18

2018-19

2019-20

2020-21

2021-22 Est.

8444

54.85

35.03

31.8

40.18

52.67

70

8445

1243.2

1645.4

2165.7

1293.2

1189.13

2200

8446

212.51

208.29

270.2

232.56

240.81

500

8447

29.73

19.68

17.06

31.8

31.85

50

8448

886.75

1008.2

1267.4

1060.6

1029.56

1600

8449

1.81

2.39

31.95

4.51

11.01

30

8451

352.97

477.77

593.64

463.89

542.2

800

Total Export

2781.8

3396.8

4377.7

3126.7

3097.23

5250

Description

2016-17

2017-18

2018-19

2019-20

2020-21

2021-22 Est.

8444

154

884

807.52

305.05

210.75

500

8445

2467

2421

2446.9

1580.4

1117.8

2200

8446

2964

3501

3210

2651

1887.74

2600

8447 8448 8449 8451 Total Import

2740 2265 249 1605 12444

2938 2505 182 1490 13921

1830.7 2776.1 242.6 1792.4 13106

1879.3 2446.1 654.78 1430.5 10947

1385.65 1881.95 488.54 1123.87 8096.3

2000 2500 500 1200 11500

Conclusion: The resilience shown by the industry could perhaps be due to ‘the pent-up demand’ during the lockdown periods of 2020-21 and 2021-22 or the ‘fear of missing out (FOMO)’ of the business opportunities thrown-in by the liquidity pumped in the market by the federal governments across the world or ‘the revenge buying of the end customer’ or else, the fact is the entire industry is alive and kicking back robustly. The discussions among the industry leaders (read spinning) have confirmed that 22 TVC | MARCH 2022

they are full with orders till entire 2023 and they have stopped taking fresh orders. Though the other segments such as weaving & processing have still not picked up in proportion to the spinning segments, the percolation of the business opportunities down the value chain seems eventual. Therefore, if one is to coin a term for the state of the Indian TEI in the current times, ‘Rise of the Phoenix’ would be the most appropriate one.

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23 TVC | MARCH +912022 98795

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Textile Machinery

How to Boost Exports of Textile Spare Parts & Accessories TVC Editorial Team

The rewards of building a strong export market are multifold – you build better systems and competencies in terms of production, marketing, design, commercial handling, affirms Kishore Khaitan, Managing Director of Basant Fibertek.

B

asant Fibertek started its journey into exports in 1998. While the journey has been long and challenging, it’s been highly rewarding both in terms of experience & learning as well as financially.

Currently, 50% of our sales comes from exports and we export to all parts of the world and to over 40 countries.

1) Poor record in timely delivery – usually they fail to deliver within committed time

India has many good suppliers of textile machinery spares and accessories though most of them are in the small-scale sector. While many of them are quite innovative, not many have not been able to sell their wares in the export market successfully. It is hazardous and costly, to say the least, to venture into export markets without first strengthening your base. Hence, before we take a deep dive into the subject of boosting exports, let’s first look into the shortcomings of many parts and accessories manufacturers.

5) Poor after-sales service – many small companies do not focus on after-sales service, especially in case of customer complaints. Trying to pass on the blame on the customer may save them from the cost of replacement or rectification but it results in losing not only the customer but also in creating a reputation.

As mentioned earlier, most manufacturers are in the small-scale sector. This means they have imitations in terms of capital resources, managerial resources, infrastructure, systems and strategic focus. But usually, what such companies lack in resources, they can make up with their entrepreneurial resourcefulness, provided they have the ambition to grow fast and globally.

The main issues or constraints associated with small manufacturers in India are: 24 TVC | MARCH 2022

2) Inconsistent quality – from batch to batch, they are not able to maintain consistent quality 3) Inefficient process of manufacturing – their manufacturing processes usually involve a lot of manual labour activity and little automation. Wastage and rejections are also likely to be higher than desired.

4) Lack of strong brand image – small companies do not invest enough resources in building their brand image through their logo, packaging, promotion, website etc.

6) Lack of in-depth knowledge about the application of their product – many manufacturers are good at copying the original product and producing the imitations cheaply. As a consequence, when their customer faces a problem, they have no clue how to solve it.

7) Over commitment – during the sales process, small producers tend to over-commit about the life and performance of their product without having tested and proven their claims. As a result, when they cannot live up to their commitment, they tend to lose the trust of their customer very fast.

8) Price based competition – small suppliers mostly try to sell their products by offering an attractive discount

on the established manufacturer’s prices. This forces to always face cut-throat competition resulting in always struggling to manage their finances and cannot afford to spend on R&D or upgradation of their manufacturing facilities.

steady improvement can be seen in both productivity and business growth.

3) Reduction in cycle time and rejects – There are always bottelenecks and constraints in any production system, many of which may be non-production related eg. planning, sales coordination, logistics, inventory management, etc. By setting goals for improvement in cycle time and reduction of rejection levels, the management can ensure that system constraints are constantly identified and removed, thus improving both cycle time as well as reducing rejection. This helps in increasing production capacity, reducing costs and improving quality consistency.

There may be several other factors worth mentioning regarding the constraints of small manufacturers but the above-mentioned are the main reasons affecting the growth of most of them. To become successful in exports, the first step a local manufacturer needs to take is to establish a good reputation in the home market. It would be foolhardy to dream of exporting if one cannot develop a set of regular and loyal clients in India who are happy using their products and services and are willing 4) Understanding user needs and process requirements to refer other clients to them as well. deeply – It is quite common to have a customer not able All factors influencing a company’s ability to export can to exactly define what improvement he would prefer be divided into two broad categories: external and in- simply because he cannot visualise what is possible. ternal. In the internal category, the above-mentioned 8 Famous examples are mobile phones, internet, robots, constraints need to be overcome in order to enhance courier service. Each of these have been massively disthe company’s capacity to serve export markets suc- ruptive and rooted out legacy businesses, yet people cessfully. Until and unless a company has the ability to couldn’t visualize their impact when the technologies meet consistently the demanding requirements of the were first introduced. Hence, a supplier should endeavexport markets, it cannot achieve any meaningful suc- or to understand the user’s needs enough to identify cess in exports. In order to overcome the above-men- how he can add value by either solving their problem or tioned constraints, the company should embark on an saving time & cost or improving quality and productivity internal transformational program that focuses on the for their customers. following: 5) Under-commit and over-deliver – The best way to 1) Build reliable systems – a systems driven approach is necessary to define standards, standard operating procedures, process control and final inspection procedure to ensure that nothing but the best quality is consistently build and supplied. It is important to maintain proper records of all production activity and quality control documentation to enable tracing backwards any product under complaint to when it was produced, who produced it, what materials and machines were used and which batch of raw material was used. If you don’t know what created the problem, you can never solve it.

2) Focus of continuous improvement – Whenever a problem or mistake is identified, efforts of management should be to institute a system or practice that can ensure that the mistake will never be repeated. One should always attempt to eliminate the root cause rather than fixing only the current problem somehow. If the management is committed, results will start coming and 25 TVC | MARCH 2022

build trust and reliability is to always deliver more than what you have committed. Once you win over the trust and confidence of the customer, you don’t need to undercut the price to get orders. Try and meet the requirements of the most demanding customers as this serves as a barometer of your competitiveness.

Once a company has built strong internal systems and culture, it is ready to explore overseas markets. Let’s now look at the external factors influencing exports: 1) Nature of the market – each country differs in terms of character and scale of the market. Hence an aspiring exporter must choose his entry market carefully. It is best to choose a market in close geographical and cultural proximity where the level of technology and machinery in common use is quite similar to the company’s domestic customers. If some Indian expatriates work there, it’s even better!

2) Nature of competition – it must be studied who are hycuTEC sets new standards in terms of the major competitors and their relative strengths and quality & efficiency weaknesses vis-à-vis your company. For instance, if anhe Neumünster-based systems builder Oerlikon other Indian company is already active in the market or Nonwoven premiered its new hycuTEC hydro-chargthere are several other non-OEM suppliers competing ing solution at this year’s FILTECH in Cologne. This against each other, changes of entry improve. If the pricnew technology for charging von nonwovens enables the es prevailing in the market are much higher than what filter efficiency to be increased to more than 99.99%. As you offer, barrier to entry is lower. If your product pera result, it offers meltblown producers considerable maformance is superior to other suppliers, your chances of terial savings with simultaneously improved filtration. success are brighter to that extent.

The hycuTEC is the market’s first industrially-manufac3) Market segment – one needs to choose which mar- tured hydro-charging solution that can also be seamket segment you wish to cater to. Would you be able to lessly integrated into the production process. And the make a strong pitch to big clients, small ones or middle innovative technology is also easily retrofitted to existing sized? Would you like to serve those with old machines systems as a plug & produce component – a first within or latest models? Would you like to serve those who the market. need service support or those who only want to buy parts?

T

4) Trust building – no customer abroad feels comfortable dealing with a new vendor from overseas. Hence, it is crucial to maintain a regular presence in the initial months. When the customer sees you are visiting regularly even without getting any business, he feels you are committed to serve the market. If you get hold of a reputed agent, it helps speed up this process of trust building. However, export marketing is a long-term game and one should have patience for 2-3 years before Filter media with a whole new level of quality seeing significant fruits from the efforts. hycuTEC hydro-charging can reduce the pressure loss in In conclusion, one must see exports development as a typical FFP2 filter media to less than a quarter. Even filtranew venture. Your domestic credentials don’t count as tion efficiencies of more than 99.99% are easily achieved much as your performance in that country. You have to in typical filter media of 35 g/m² at 35 Pa. Tests at pilot build your reputation there brick by brick with patience customers manufacturing FFP2 face masks have confirmed quality increases due to the improved filtration and perseverance. The rewards of building a strong exwith a simultaneous reduction in material usage of 30%. port market are multifold – you build better systems For end users, the consequence is noticeably improved and competencies in terms of production, marketing, comfort resulting from significantly reduced breathing design, commercial handling. resistance.

You also build a growth oriented, progressive company culture and a broader vision and strategy for the business. Success in exports can be financially rewarding and also builds resilience by reducing dependence in the local market. Finally, the satisfaction of succeeding in tough markets and seeing your reputation and stature in the industry soar has its own personal and financial rewards!

26 TVC | MARCH 2022

In addition to this, the hydro-charging unit also stands out in terms of sustainability: “The hycuTEC process excels as a future-proof technology due to its considerably lower water and energy consumption compared to other hydro-charging concepts. This unit allows an additional drying process to be dispensed with in many applications, which has a huge impact on energy consumption”, comments Dr. Ingo Mählmann, Head of Sales & Marketing at Oerlikon Nonwoven. Incidentally, the hycuTEC unit can be easily and quickly installed and is simple to operate, set and service, while also being extremely user-friendly.

27 TVC | MARCH 2022

REVIEW PAPER : ECO FRIENDLY DYEING

Technology for Textile Dyeing Using Supercritical Fluid Swapneshu Baser Vikhroli (W), Mumbai - 400 079.

Abstract: Deven Supercriticals, India (DSPL) has developed innovative Supercritical (SC) Carbon Dioxide (CO2) based dyeing and finishing technology that is uniquely suitable for not only polyester but also for cotton and blended textiles. Further, it uses conventional dyes (No special dyes required) and recipe as used in the conventional process, to get the desired shade BUT without use of water in dyeing process. This innovative process shows improved dye utilisation, makes scale-up easy and has less than half dyeing time vis-a-vis prior-art SC CO2 based dyeing processes. There is no need for reduction clearing for polyester, cotton with no salt added, dyes blend in a single step, reduces overall auxiliary chemicals. Thus, substantially reducing the pollution, water and energy load. This has truly made the SC CO2 technology viable, versatile and simple.

T

raditionally, water has been a popular medium used in dyeing, finishing, cleaning of textile materials. It makes the textile industry as one of the largest consumers of water resources. On the other hand, the cost of input water and waste water treatment are ever increasing along with the pollution control norms becoming more stringent each year. Also globally, usable water resources are becoming alarmingly scarce. Recently in December 2020, water has even started trading on Wall Street as a ‘Futures commodity’ to join the likes of Gold and Oil. In these regards it has become very critical that textile processes that use minimum or no water are developed and adapted on commercial scale. In recent years, use of supercritical fluids as a replacement for water as solvent, in Dyeing process has attracted attention of the Textile industry. Carbon Dioxide (CO2) has emerged as the most preferred supercritical solvent. Major advantages of Supercritical CO2 (SC CO2) based Textile Dyeing process which also improve its ‘Economic Viability’ and ‘Consumer preference’ are as follows: 1. Zero discharge: Elimination of waste water streams, Pollution.

2. Shorter process and dyeing times because: i. SC CO2 penetrates in the polymer matrix and swells it to help in faster diffusion of dye ii. molecules within the polymer matrix. iii. SC CO2 has negligible surface tension resulting in efficient wetting of polymer surface and faster pene28 TVC | MARCH 2022

tration in voids of textile material. iv. SC CO2 has low viscosity which helps in efficient and easy circulation of the solution of SC CO2 and dye, through the textile material. v. SC CO2 has higher diffusivity which helps in faster mass transfer.

3. Efficient process because of Lower dye consumption, no wastage and dye can be reused.

4. Energy saving process due to minimum requirement of expensive ‘heat energy’ and resource required for post dyeing repeated water washing and drying of dyed fibre or fabric.

5. SC CO2 is recyclable. inert, nonexplosive, Generally Regarded as Safe (GRAS) solvent.

6. There is no damage of the fibre or fabric.

7. Many pre- and post-treatments of textile material are simplified or eliminated.

8. 7) Many pre- and post-treatments of textile material are simplified or eliminated.

Limitations of Prior Art Technology / Motivation for Inovation: The conventional / prior art supercritical dyeing processes that were available in the world, had following major limitations which have also resulted in limited adoption of the said prior art supercritical fluid based sustainable processes:

i. Dye needs to be first dissolved in SC CO2 and then transported to the textile in placed in dyeing vessel. ii. Dyes have Low solubility in SC CO2 resulting in low dye concentration in dye solution. iii. Low residence time of dissolved dye flowing through the dyeing vessel, limits the contact, interaction of textile material with dye molecules. iv. Some part of dissolved dye which is flowing through the ‘Dyeing vessel’ may not come in contact with the textile surface. Also, Non-uniform flow / Channelling of SC CO2 solution through textile roll in dyeing vessel can lead to non-uniform contact and thus non-uniform dyeing in large scale operation. Thus, it may require special, complicated additional devices to impart say rotational motion to the textile roll in dyeing vessel, to improve the uniformity in dyeing. v. Thus, only part of the available dissolved dye may actually take part in SC CO2 dyeing to achieve desired colour Intensity on textile material. vi. The final shade of dyed cloth depends on the extent of exposure as the shade keeps getting darker with passage of contact time with fresh dye solution entering the dyeing vessel, making it difficult to control Batch to Batch variation. vii. Mainly useful for applying dark shades with a single colour at a time. viii.

All above limitations makes prior art SC CO2 dyeing process less versatile, slow and less efficient.

Our innovative process having Indian Patent no.

298213 [1] and United States of America Patent No. US 11015289 B2 [2], includes the following steps: a. Making a dye solution: By mixing the dye material and auxiliary chemicals with suitable solvent. We preferably use water as a solvent for the conventional dyes along with the dispersing, levelling agents. b. Pre-treatment: Pre-coating the surface of textile material to be dyed with an optimum quantity of above dye solution to obtain a dye coated textile material.

Any standard method of coating can be used such as Roller coating, ink jet printing etc. c. Supercritical CO2 process: Placing dye coated textile material inside the supercritical ‘Dyeing vessel’ on a supercritical fluid processing plant. d. Adding the supercritical CO2 into the ‘Dyeing vessel’. Exact operating conditions are optimized as per the type of dye, auxiliary chemicals and textile used, wherein the supercritical CO2 solubilizes the dye molecules that were earlier coated on the surface of the textile material and further diffuses the solubilized dye molecules inside the surface, pores and capillaries of the textile material; e. Depressurizing the supercritical fluid dyeing vessel to precipitate and entrap the dye material inside the textile material. f. Post-Treatment: Mild soap washing of the dyed & finished textile with and stentering.

Innovative Elements of Patented Process from DSPL:

1. Novel / Inventive step: Pre-coating of textiles to be dyed, with optimum quantity of dye & auxiliary chemical molecules, per unit area of textiles to in• To get uniform, reproducible interaction between crease surface area of solute and improve rate of soldye molecules and entire surface of textile material. ubilisation of dye & other molecules in supercritical • To Improve rate of solubilisation of dye molecules in CO2. This also improves uniformity, reproducibility Supercritical CO2 solvent to increase the rate and efof dyed shade, washing fastness and finishing effect. ficiency of SC CO2 dyeing process.

2. Non-Obviousness: Use any pre-coating method such • To achieve easy scale-up to large scale dyeing while as inkjet printing, Roller coating or similar process for maintaining desired uniform & reproducible colour having a controlled pre-coating of optimum quantity intensity on textile material. of dye molecules, auxiliary chemicals on the textile material to achieve a single or multi-color / light or • To get dyeing of the textile materials with a single dark shade dyeing of textiles with post processing or multi-colours in various shades, patterns etc. in a with SC CO2. single step of dyeing operation.

3. Industrial applicability: Patented improved technology from DSPL eliminates major limitations of prior Methods & Materials: art Supercritical dyeing processes available in the market. Its innovative features make it very simple, Details of Innovative SCF Dyeing Process from DSPL: Hence, the objective of innovative work at DSPL was to develop an improved dyeing process:

29 TVC | MARCH 2022

easily scalable, most efficient and economically viable, to truly achieve the sustainability goals of user industry.

Results and Discussion:

Yellow

Magenta

# “Sorona” is DuPont’s brand for an eco-efficient performance Polyester produced by using one of the monomer: 1,3-propanediol, which is obtained from renewable (Plant based) source.

Cyan

Black

Fig. 1 Photos of ‘R-Elan GreenGold’ # polyester fabric dyed with disperse dyes with SC CO2 based patented process from DSPL (# ‘R-Elan GreenGold’ is brand of Reliance Industries, India, for a special Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET) fabric from recycled PET bottles to address environmental pollution)

Patented SC CO2 Dyeing from DSPL

Conventional Water based Dyeing

Prior art SC CO2 Dyeing

Fig. 2 Photos of R-Elan GreenGold polyester fabric dyed with Navy Blue (1.3 % Shade) using Coralene Navy Blue 3G H/C disperse dye from ColourTex using three different dyeing processes

As is seen in Figure 2, Patented SC CO2 Process from DSPL gives 18 to 24% darker colour shade on same “GreenGold” fabric, as compared to samples obtained from conventional water-based dyeing as well as prior art supercritical dyeing (with same dye & same quantity of dye being used).

Fig. 3 COLOUR FASTNESS Results as per ISO:105:E01, for dyed GreenGold Fabrics as stated in Fig. 2 As seen in Figure-3 innovative, patented process from DSPL is more efficient and gives better Colour, Washing Fastness.

Navy Blue (2.1 % Shade) by SC CO2 based Dyeing & Finishing from DSPL

Navy Blue (3.0 % Shade) by Conventional Water based Dyeing & Finishing

30 TVC | MARCH 2022

Fig. 4 Photos of SORONA# Polyester fabric dyed using disperse dye Dianix Navy XF2 from DyStar using two different dyeing processes

As seen in Figure-4, improved SC CO2 Dyeing and Finishing Process from DSPL matches the required Navy Blue shade with about 30 % less Dye as compared to conventional Water based dyeing process, carried on same Sorona fabric.

Dyeing of Micro-Denier Polyester Fabric with Patented Process from DSPL: The micro-denier polyester fabrics have very high surface area, which pose challenges in dyeing with the conventional Water based dyeing process. It shows problems like unlevelled dyeing, lower colour depths, lower washing fastness etc. with regular types of disperse dyes.

Above issues are sorted by improved, patented SC CO2 Dyeing technology from DSPL. As seen in right side photo of micro-denier polyester fabric (Microsupersoft (125/288), Plain Interlock) dyed with our technology using regular disperse dye (0.75 % Shade of Golden Yellow GG 200%, from Spectrum). A very uniform, levelled dyeing achieved with good colour depth and excellent colour fastness to washing of 4-5.

Amber (1.5 % Shade) on 100 % Cotton fabric (130 GSM)

Yellow Brown (1.5 % Shade) on Polyester-Cotton (67:33) Blend fabric (125 GSM)

Blue (1.5 % Shade) on Polyester-Cotton (67:33) Blend fabric (125 GSM)

Improved Economic Viability due to Innovation: Innovative Supercritical CO2 based dyeing process from DSPL has improved economic viability due to following important factors: 1. Process from DSPL is simpler, versatile & efficient with less than half dyeing time vis a vis Prior-art processes, increasing processing capacity & reducing processing cost.

2. We can use conventional dyes traditionally used by

industry. Thus, not necessary to use expensive special dyes required by prior-art processes, improving viability.

transfer related issues.

12.

Better premium and higher preference from customers for Genuine ‘Eco Friendly’, ‘Green’ dyeing processes: giving major economic and marketing ad3. Here thin, controlled layer of dye is Pre-coated on vantage. surface of textile to be dyed. This increases the effective surface area of solute (Dye) and thus increas- 13.

Innovation from DSPL allows dyeing & finishing es interaction and rate of solubilisation in solvent (SC process with softeners, antimicrobials etc. in single CO2). step. Thus Saves on process steps, chemicals, water, 4. With availability of optimum and uniform quantity of dye molecules on the entire surface of textile material (in form of pre-coating of very thin layer), the supercritical fluid efficiently dissolves the dye molecules and make it penetrate inside textile matrix to achieve uniform and efficient dyeing all over.

5. Thus, in process from DSPL Dye molecules are not required to be transported as a Dye solution in supercritical medium, from the ‘Dye-Mixing vessel’ to the textile material kept in ‘Dyeing Vessel’. Also, contrary to prior-art process, it does not remain critical for the said dye solution to flow and distribute uniformly, over each part of the roll of textile material for achieving uniform, reproducible dyeing, even for lighter shades.

6. Pre-coating of the Textile surface with optimum quantity of dye also minimises wastage of dye in overall dyeing operation. Thus, lower dye quantity is required for achieving a specific shade as compared to the conventional dyeing process.

time & energy.

Conclusion Supercritical fluid-based dyeing and finishing technology from Deven Supercriticals Pvt. Ltd., India is uniquely suitable for not only man-made fabrics like polyester, nylon but also for cotton and blended textiles. Also, it allows use of conventional dyes with no requirement for special expensive dyes. Same recipe of dyes as used in the conventional water-based process can be used in this innovative process, but without use of water in the dyeing process. It further shows improved dye utilisation, makes scale-up easy and has less than half dyeing time vis-a-vis prior-art SC CO2 based dyeing processes.

There is no need for reduction clearing for polyester, no salt added for cotton dyeing, single step dyeing possible for blend textiles, reducing overall requirement for auxiliary chemicals.

Thus, substantially reduces the pollution, water and 7. This also enables efficient Dyeing with desired Uni- energy load. It has made the SC CO2 technology truly form, Reproducible colour shade, on man-made, viable, versatile and simple. Thus, at present and in the natural or blended textile materials (fibres & fab- future, the improved, efficient and patented supercritical fluid dyeing and finishing technology from DSPL, rics), in a single step. which takes care of the limitations of the prior-art SC 8. It also saves expensive ‘heat energy’ resource other- CO2 based technologies, has great potential to truly acwise required for post dyeing repeated water wash- complish environment friendly, green objectives of texing and drying of dyed Textiles. tile industries around the world for utilising sustainable 9. This is ‘Zero Discharge’ process, minimises ETP costs. processes vis-a-vis the traditional processes which have SC CO2 solvent is recycled. a negative impact on health and environment.

10.

Any dye recovered in ‘Separator’ can be reused References: as there is No hydrolysis or degradation of dye in SC 1. “Process for dyeing of textile materials using superCO2. critical fluid”, Inventor: Dr. Swapneshu Baser, Indian 11.

This innovation also makes scale up of Dyeing process easier as desired Dye molecules are already made available on entire surface of Textile material kept in Dyeing vessel, minimising the fluid and mass 31 TVC | MARCH 2022

Patent No. 298213 granted in 2018.

2. “Process for dyeing of textile materials using supercritical fluid”, Inventor: Dr. Swapneshu Baser, United States of America Patent No. US 11015289 B2 granted in 2021.6) There is no damage of the fibre or fabric.

32 TVC | MARCH 2022 47 TVC | Jan 2022

REVIEW PAPER : RECYCLING

Second-Hand Clothing as a Sustainable & Fashionable Lifestyle Prof. Dr. Patricia Sumod Dr. Kundlata Mishra, Associate professor Ms. Shweta Rangnekar, Assistant professor

Abstract: To quote a very relevant saying, “Do I get a coffee? A snack? Or something to wear?’ from the book Overdressed authored by Elizabeth L. Cline, one does get an idea of the dangerous level of fast-fashion in the retail segment has reached. This behaviour of consumers has seen an intriguing connection and turn the environment has taken to date. Shopping for clothes is awesome, but how does one slow down the process or even in some cases reverse the process?

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he retail sector in the fashion industry has thrived on the notion of fast fashion, however, the trend today is building on the concept of “saving natural resources and lessening land-fills”. History has shown us that the textile and fashion industries boost the economy of the nation, but in due course of time we have set ourselves on the path of destruction because we have not understood the concept of ‘giving (resources)’ against ‘receiving’. Time is now running out in terms of the validity of living life recklessly and sustainable causes have brain-washed consumers in general.

This constant dependency on fast fashion has led some of us to let the notion of sustainable and slow fashion creep into our system. When we read statistics which tell us that a simple T-shirt which could be worn around 7-9 times, costs the Earth 2700 litres of water, it does make the fashion fraternity stop to think about how and where we are going wrong in our fashionable lifestyle.

Building a vibe of second-hand clothing is one of the many constants we can adapt to work around the idea of living sustainably. We do understand that human behaviour or urge to delve into fashion, is fuelled by the desire for emotions and peer pressure. Observing the fact that humans are closely connected to emotion, there could be a possibility for fashion to regenerate itself through second-hand clothing, refurbished and re33 TVC | MARCH 2022

styled. Thus, giving birth to hand-me-downs and sibling love, this concept tugs on the human nature/emotion and at the same time attempts to re-build nature or at least sustain nature in a non-despicable manner. This concept will conceptualise into advocating for ethical issues and subjugate the hedonistic subconscious manner of consumers to go on a buying-spree anytime they choose to fancy. Now, that is the time. Second-hand shopping is one of the most sustainable things you can do as a consumer to lessen your negative impact, and savvy buyers have caught on.

The conversation reiterates that second-hand shopping is on the rise due to the coronavirus pandemic, which seems to have been driven by the affordability of second-hand goods. Thus, in the spirit of second-hand goods, we liked to share how second-hand clothing can be a sustainable and fashionable lifestyle.

Keywords: Positive-impact, Redefined-style, Purpose, Nostalgia, Millennials What Does Second-Hand Mean?

One of the basic principles of the recycling philosophy is the second-hand economy. This practice makes the consumers more aware and responsible for the textile industry’s environmental effects. Certainly, this subject raises the desire of consumers to purchase clothing from eco-friendly brands that invite us to reflect on the reality that the clothes you wear must never be disposable.

The increase in second-hand purchases is an inescapable consequence of the impact of the major trends in the global fashion market, such as recycling and environmental sustainability with zero impact. Further, consumers of used garments increased by sixty-four percent compared to 2016, and that percentage continues to rise every day.

Because of the current economic crises, a little due to

the pressure exerted by environmental associations, and the media railing against hyper-consuming and waste, second-hand clothing has become the answer to the many evils afflicting the textile sector.

ality that consumer preference has evolved and wants more eco-friendly products.

The Nostalgia in Buying Second-Hand Clothes

• Everlane

Part of the appeal of second-hand clothing has been the opportunity to find one-of-a-kind pieces that stand out from mainstream fashion. Today’s individuality-focused Gen Z and Millennials is a major key factor in their buying behaviour.

The interest of millennials in nostalgia is a key driver, with most young people searching paparazzi shots and old fashion magazines for style inspiration. Even fashion brands are trading off the interest in nostalgia, such as the recent collections of Versace that have reworked archive silhouettes and prints. Fendi has also reissued the 90s era Baguette bag to excellent fanfare.

Some of the top fashion brands leading the way in sustainability are the following: The brand combines sustainability with transparency by sharing with its customers the breakdown of the cost of every item and displaying the factories where garments are produced. The company creates strong relationships with factory owners to guarantee the employees and production meet the brand’s high ethical standards.

• Levi’s

Denim is infamous for requiring big amounts of water to make a single pair of jeans. However, the recent collection of Levi’s Water<Less uses up to ninety-six percent less water. For that and all its products, the brand is dedicated to sustainability through the whole design For the past few years, celebrities and style-leaders have and manufacturing process. That also includes working been bragging about their fashion experience by wear- towards sustainability-sourced cotton and recycling old ing iconic classic pieces from Versace, Jean-Paul Gaulti- jeans into home insulation. er, Azzedine Alaia, and Thierry Mugler collections.

• People Tree Fast Fashion No Longer Hold the Reigns of Style Established in 1991, People Tree was one of the first susFast fashion has been the wrath for everybody to wear tainable fashion brands in the world. It’s the only brand the newest styles. However, the overproduction of such acknowledged by the World Fair Trade Organization and garments is polluting the planet. Did you know it takes invests massively in eco-friendly and sustainable practic2,700 litres of water to create a cotton shirt? That is es, which involve organic farming. enough water for one individual to drink for 2.5 years.

The brand also supports good working conditions fair You see, the fast-fashion business model is great for wages and employs sustainable materials such as chemclothing designers but not for the environment. After ical-free dyes, natural fibers, and organic cotton. a clothing factory in Bangladesh failed and killed more than 1,000 factory employees, consumers—particularly • H&M Conscious professional women—started wondering about the real H&M is shifting away from its fast-fashion roots along cost of the fast fashion industry. That caused a massive with its Conscious collection. The clothes are made from shift towards sustainable fashion. materials such as recycled polyester and organic cotton.

Further, fast fashion has contributed to the rise in what The brand hopes to lessen its environmental footprint experts refer to as a throwaway culture. It refers to by using environmentally-friendly fabrics and more suswhen consumers throw out foods, goods, and other tainable production methods. On top of that, consumproducts—instead of donating or recycling—after they ers can recycle unnecessary garments at H&M stores and receive a discount for their next purchase. Rememare seen as useless or no longer need it. ber that H&M strives to only use sustainably sourced International Labels Moving Towards Sustainability materials by 2030.

The fashion industry is seeking to make trends, and now Designers Re-Using Their Earlier Collections it is working on its most crucial trend yet: sustainability.

Compared to a few questionable fashion decisions, it’s a In 2019, as the climate crisis weighed more on consumers globally, designers thought more critically about trend all consumers could get behind. their impact on the environment and came up with creYou may be already aware that Nordstrom is selling used ative answers for excess fabrics. It is not a new solution clothing. Everybody is beginning to wake up to the re34 TVC | MARCH 2022

to the problem of excess fabrics post-production runs.

Alexander McQueen has been repurposing extra material and scraps into runway collections for years. Many indie brands have also been established on this concept.

There are many organisations committed to collecting and recycling waste.

In the same year, Tanya Taylor dropped a limited edition remixed and restitched sleep collection, which features a pajama set and accessories made from fabrics leftover from different 2019 collections, including pre-fall and resort.

Hand-Me-Down Clothing Bear in mind that sustainability in fashion is not all about using earth-friendly materials. It goes far beyond that and challenges the fashion sector that flourishes on different looks at different times of the day, let alone months, years, seasons.

Sharing clothes enables you to connect with other people. It is a simple and practical way that we can provide to support one another—something we need to do more often. Whether you are sharing hand-me-downs with a neighbour, friend, co-worker, or even a stranger, you have the opportunity to visit for a few minutes and experience some camaraderie.

You have seen this numerous times. Remember when bell-bottom jeans returned in the early 2000s, it was a 70s motif. A more modern trend is high-waisted, straight-leg jeans. That look has nearly been transposed from the mid-90s.

Where is the ideal place to get these on-trend items of garments? You guess it right, sustainable second-hand clothing.

The Future of Second-Hand Fashion Driven by nostalgic millennials, sustainable consumption, and celebrity style, second-hand clothing looks to substantially impact retail in the following years. It’s worth mentioning that circular fashion is one of the solutions to remove the impact of the fashion industry on the environment. This problem is now at the forefront of Gen Zers and Millennials. The future will now seek complementary and alternative solutions to the first-hand fashion market.

Conclusion

For a long time, fast fashion has reigned the clothing market, and with it, the environment and many workers have paid a high price. Fortunately, with things such as the sustainable fashion movement and the launch of slow fashion, people are beginning to realise that we Why You Should Participate in the Second-Hand Cloth- need to become more proactive if we want this planet of ours to stay beautiful. Young India is moving rapidly ing Trend To safeguard the environment and ensure there is towards taking climate change and responsible lifestyle enough resources leftover for the next generation (your very seriously. Youngsters are creating their own mulkids), wearing sustainable second-hand clothing is a vi- ti-dimensional spaces to work on areas that hold sustainability at the core. Namrata Iyer founder of The Lotal step you can make towards a better future. cal Thrift concept speaks about the growing increase in • Lessen textile waste second-hand clothing and also stresses on emotive the Clothing and textile waste are a major concern at the tag ‘pre-loved’ given to second-hand clothes. moment. Every year in the UK, 350,000 tons of used There are many platforms like Instagram, Facebook, onclothing that are still wearable is delivered to the land- line Garage sales which in increasingly popular among fill. The quantity of wearable clothing that’s discarded the youth while creating a feeling of responsibility. The every year weighs nearly as much as the Empire State growing social and environmental issues in India have Building. That figure is only an estimate from one na- nudged the audience to take steps towards searching tion. Just visualize how much the global number is? Each for long-lasting and better solutions. The emotion which time you participate in sustainable clothing, you extend connects to second-hand clothing is the various stories the time until a piece of clothing becomes waste. Many each clothing item has. The persons who put up for sale, high-quality garments purchased second-hand still have their pre-loved clothing and accessories attach them another decade or two of life left in them. with love and a series of stories and events connects the buyers to those emotions. These unique stories build at• Old trends return on fashion tachments and attractiveness which further paves the It has been known that fashion works in cycles. Things path towards the popularity of second-hand clothing. trend for a little while, then they vanish. Sometimes, According to another young entrepreneur Asenla Jamir, they will appear again in a new generation.

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founder and creative director of Otsü Clothing Co, the pandemic has led to many a downfall of popular online shopping brands, which has built the novelty and the acceptance of second-hand clothing among online shoppers today.

You will find many ways to be proactive and partaking in the second-hand clothing market is beneficial to the environment and extremely fun at the same time. So, we encourage you to have a look for some second-hand bargains, and you will not certainly regret it! History has shown and taught us that culture and commodity are intertwined which build our consumers and their values.

This is the century for revisiting that concept and evolving into a conscious segment of consumers, creating platforms for forward-thinking practices and demand

that consumers must learn to be credible for their purchases.

REFERENCES: Cline, E. L. (n.d.). Overdressed: The shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion.

Franscesco Morace, P. F. (n.d.). End of Old Luxury and Rise of the New Paradigms of Fashion.

Linden, A. R. (n.d.). An Analyst of the Fast Fashion Industry.

Nusrat Zahan. (n.d.). Sustainable fashion: A paradigm shift or a pipedream.

Prasad, A. (n.d.). How hand-me-down fashion became haute during the pandemic.

12,338 (+19%) GOTS certified facilities in 79 countries in 2021

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wenty years after its inception, the world’s leading textile processing standard for organic fibres records new all-time high figures: 18 GOTS Approved Certification Bodies report a total of 12,338 certified facilities (+19%) in 79 countries (+11%).

Among the countries with the largest increase in GOTS certified facilities in 2021 are Turkey (+61% to 1,799), Italy (+53% to 894), Germany (+19% to 817), Portugal (+35% to 608), France (+22% to 122), Denmark (+14% to 115), Switzerland (+15% to 61), Belgium (+55% to 59), Sweden (+34% to 51) and Vietnam (+264% to 51).

“What seemed utopian to many in 2002 has become a reality in the past 20 years. We have created an organic textile standard, certified by approved certification bodies, which is accepted in all major markets. GOTS is a standard that gives consumers the power to choose truly organic products sourced from sustainable supply chains.” says Claudia Kersten, Managing Director at GOTS. “Despite ongoing difficulties and uncertainty caused by the Covid-19 pandemic, decision-makers continue to pursue their sustainability goals and value GOTS as a tool to accomplish them”.

The results of the annual GOTS Survey among certified entities underline this. Out of 1,114 respondents (+39%), 63% indicated a permanent shift in their sustainability strategy with a focus on the environment and health of their workers and staff.

Growing interest from industry, the public, and the media drove website visits up an impressive 48%. Media exposure grew by 64% and GOTS social media followers across several platforms jumped by 57%.

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“As much as we are pleased with the development so far, we don’t intend to rest on our laurels” adds Rahul Bhajekar, Managing Director at GOTS. “In March 2022 we begin revision for GOTS version 7 involving all stakeholders including associations, organisations, companies, and individuals to further advance the progressive, innovative, stringent yet practical standard of GOTS”.

As informed by Mr.Ganesh Kasekar – Representative of GOTS in South Asia region, GOTS continues to be the preferred sustainability standard in the region.

The unique positioning of the region remains unfazed since it covers all stakeholders and partners involves in the textile supply chain. This includes the fibre to final product manufacturing along with the supporting industries of dyes-chemicals and accessories.

The industry in the South Asia region also welcomed the concept of “Organic In Conversion” which will be a boost and encouragement for more organic cotton projects from Farm to Fashion. Positive signs were received for the inclusion and use of other sustainable fibres (Hemp, Silk, Pashmina and others) on a large scale under GOTS. India and Pakistan will be the key focus areas for the Organic In Conversion concept.

The changing consumer behaviour and urge to have a complete sustainable product in their hands, not just abroad but also in the domestic markets, is motivating companies to revamp their product from conventional to sustainable. This remains an area of significant importance in the future.

INTERVIEW-FABRICLORE

Each Fabric is Assembled with utmost precision ANUPAM ARYA

Founded in 2016 by Mr. Vijay Sharma, Mr. Anupam Deo Arya and Mr. Sandeep Sharma, Fabriclore, which literally means ‘stories of fabrics’, is an online brand that aims to revive India’s use of both traditional and modern fabrics by delivering premium curated fabrics.

India is among the world’s largest producers of textiles, and yet the textile industry is a largely unorganised sector in the country. Other than the suiting and shirting segment, a large segment of the industry is still fragmented.

There is no easy accessibility or standardisation of what is being produced across India, in both native Indian crafts and modern digital or embellished fabrics.

However, things are changing now, in this new era of digitisation, post the pandemic world. Joining the wagon is Jaipur-based Fabriclore, an online brand that aims to revive India’s use of both traditional and modern fabrics by delivering curated fabrics. Fabriclore is a blend of traditional and modern design materials, where each piece of fabric is assembled with utmost mindfulness and precision. The fabrics are sourced from masters of traditional craft and even traditional keepers, making them an ideal value for money for connoisseurs of design and fabrics.

The brand works in close collaboration with designers to co-create spectacular classical and fusion designs, in both clothing and home furnishing.

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nupam Deo Arya, VP Marketing and Communication, Fabriclore conveyed in an exclusive interview to the Textile Value Chain about the birth and growth of Fabriclore. Excerpts: You have created a novel niche in fabric business. How did this happen?

I never had an agenda to start a business in fabrics or textiles as I was inexperienced, though somewhere inside, I always yearned to be a part of a consumer design-oriented project. So, it was a mere stroke of luck.

My partners and I realized the demand for fabrics in the market was not being fulfilled. Hence, after plunging into the segment deeper, we were surprised to be same field. acquainted with the variety of fabrics available! This is What are the various segments covered under Fabrihow we hatched the idea of starting a business in the clore & marketing tactics?

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If in export, what are the various achievements in the markets?

Our achievement in the international market is that we have been able to work with lot of individual designers and developed some really niche products with the combination of printing, weaving and fabric. We have been able to create the largest catalogue of fabrics accessible globally even in small yardages.

How far have your moved up in digitalisation?

1. Boutique Circle- An all-integrated digital platform to connect consumers with regional designers & boutiques.

2. END-TO-END Fabric & Design Ecosystem 3. Project roots: An exclusive initiative to bring together authentic crafts, sustainable processes, modern design thought & academia.

4. Wholesale and Made to order How’s the production and raw material requirements We are a digital first platform and emphasise on exceptional visual experience, that is highly detailed, taken care of?

Our production is managed by the network of artisans transparent, diverse and design centric. Add to that is and manufacturers spread across India in 14 states our content marketing ecosystem. Anyone visiting us which is further managed by our inhouse team of tex- digitally get access to a full spectrum of content, fabtile designers and merchandisers. Moreover, we use ric knowledge wiki, workshops, styling inspiration, and our internal software to track and maintain the pro- FAQ videos across all major social media channels. We also organise interactive sessions and quizzes, as a regress across India. sult of which, our company has a great following on Moving on to raw materials, we do have a stock of social media. raw materials and our inhouse team experiments on Our next step of digitisation is to bring designers and boutiques under single platform covering the entire loop of fabric to garment making.

What are the plans for the future? Any diversification?

One of the plans is to focus on the entire spectrum of fabric buyer categories from consumer to the enterprise level apparel manufacturers.

Another plan is the vertical integration of boutiques/ designers within our system.

How does your competition fare? them with a lots of art. We make sure to do sampling first and then distribute them to the artisans. We do not engage on leaving the choice on the manufacturer rather we have grey fabric to experiment. Our great deal of investment is in sampling part.

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Fabriclore’s competition is mainly from standalone suppliers at the regional level and some modern retailers focused on fabrics. Online horizontal marketplaces like Amazon and vertical players like iTokri and Jaypore also sell fabrics but are not fully into making a comprehensive ecosystem. International players like Joann

Fabric and Mood Fabric are something we constantly keep an eye on.

What is your wish-list for the Government & the textile industry to tackle future challenges?

Tax rationalisation across the value chain of garment industry is the biggest need of the hour. The legacy tax regimes have accumulated pile of GST input credit which is absolutely useless for us. There must be mechanisms for us to use this input credit in any financial

instrument. As the industry is moving more towards digital economy, use of digital products or software or advertising platforms have been quintessential. However, they are heavily taxed. Government shall encourage use of such services/products by reducing tax.

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40 TVC | MARCH 2022

INTERVIEW-Itema Weaving

Itema Weaves Huge Hopes in India SAMEER KULKARNI

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tema is a leading global provider of advanced weaving solutions, including best-in-class weaving machines, spare parts and integrated services. The Company is the only manufacturer in the world to provide the top three weft insertion technologies: rapier, airjet and projectile, with an ample product portfolio and a commitment to continuous innovation and technological advancement of its weaving machines. Itema is a trusted partner of many Indian weaving mills, from large textile conglomerates to smaller textile manufacturers, providing the most advanced and user-friendly weaving technology and real-time assistance, from the initial negotiation stage and throughout the whole machine life cycle.

Itema showcased at SITEX a rapier R9500-2 weaving machine, in weaving width 3800 mm and equipped with a Stäubli LXM 5376 hooks Jacquard shedding machine. The machine on display in Stäubli booth wove a fabric traditionally produced in the mills of the Region and was configured to meet the local weavers production needs.

SITEX was also the official launch of the partnership between Itema and the leading Italian circular knitting machines manufacturer Cesare Colosio for the marketing and distribution of the company highly innovative machines in India. With this partnership Itema expands its portfolio of textile products, thus creating a significant benefit for all the Indian textile companies that need both the Itema and the Colosio machinery, that share the same attention to innovation and excellence 41 TVC | MARCH 2022

that Itema guarantees to its customers.

Itema is present in India with a fully-operational branch since 2002, counting more than 50 employees, with sales and after-sales teams, technical support and advanced repair centres to ensure the highest possible standard of weaving solutions, with a complete offering and range of services to its valuable Customers in the Indian market.

Sameer Kulkarni - General Manager Sales, Itema Weaving India Pvt Ltd spoke with the Textile Value Chain. Excerpts: How was Sitex 2022 exhibition for your company?

Sitex turned out to be a great opportunity to meet our customers and an impressive number of potential new investors. The textile industry of the Surat region is experiencing a real momentum, with weaving mills working at full capacity. We received many inquiries from weavers that are planning to modernise their weaving equipment, and Itema is the right partner to rely on since we provide the latest weaving technology coupled with real-time assistance and maximum customer care.

Tell us about new innovations displayed at Sitex 2022 At Sitex we exhibited our absolute best-seller in the region, the Itema rapier R9500-2. Displayed in Stäubli booth, the weaving machine was configured to weave saree fabric and to perfectly meet the local mills’ weaving needs. In addition to the R9500-2, the Itema airjet A9500-2 and the Itema rapier R9500-2denim aroused

a lot of interest, also due to the main innovations they are featuring such as the waste selvedge eraser iSAVER® and the Itema proprietary technology healdframes SKYFRAME®. iSAVER® represents the first sustainable innovation in the weaving process, enabling the weaver to save money whilst reducing cotton and water wastage. SKYFRAME®, on the airjet side, ensures maximum performances even at the highest speed.

Another important news introduced by Itema at Sitex is the commercial partnership with the leading Italian circular knitting machines manufacturer Cesare Colosio for the marketing and distribution of the company’s highly innovative machines in India.

At Sitex we exhibited our absolute best-seller in the region, the Itema rapier R9500-2. Displayed in Stäubli booth, the weaving machine was configured to weave saree fabric and to perfectly meet the local mills’ weaving needs. In addition to the R95002, the Itema airjet A9500-2 and the Itema rapier R9500-2denim aroused a lot of interest, also due to the main innovations they are featuring such as the waste selvedge eraser iSAVER® and the Itema proprietary technology heald-frames SKYFRAME®.

back home. Thanks to this, we have been capable to safeguard our employee’s health and we have been able to assist our customers in the usual effective way.

What is the future you see in your industry in terms of growth in jacquard market and overall textile industry?

The textile industry in India is growing year on year.

Beside the fabric production for exports, we are experiencing a significant growth of the internal demand.

Looking at the Jacquard market, it has grown significantly in recent years due to continuous expansion of domestic market, especially for Saree production, and constant rise of both domestic and export demand of home furnishing fabrics. As Itema we are leading the Jacquard market due to the renowned textile mastery of our rapier looms and the demand for our technology is steadily increasing due to our looms capability to weave even the most difficult styles and yarns, guarWith this partnership we expand our portfolio of tex- anteeing superior fabric’s quality. Particularly, what tile products, thus creating a significant benefit for all weavers appreciate the most in our weaving technolthe Indian textile companies that need both the Itema ogy when producing Saree and furnishing fabrics is the possibility to weave designs with weft densities variaand the Colosio machineries. tions and the ability to successfully handle fancy yarns, How was covid phase ie year 2020 and 2021 for you in from coarsest to finest. terms of managing employees, profits, operations etc We see a flourishing future for textiles in India overWe had two clear priorities in our crisis response. Our all, and we are proud to see Indian textile companies number one priority has been to ensure the health and evolving by choosing the latest textile technologies safety of our people and their families. The second priand improving their supply chain. ority has been to ensure business continuity: to deliver our products and to provide service to our customers. What advise do you give to new entrepreneur, start up, new generation who are joining textile industry?

In all our health and safety measures, we follow the guidelines of the World Health Organization and Indian The textile industry is fascinating and there is still much health authorities, and we followed the Itema Group room for growth. Particularly, investigating the market specific policy, named Stronger Together Against Cov- to detect trends is of crucial importance. Investing in id-19, to ensure our employees the maximum safety the right market segment represents a key factor for when working in our premises and even when going succeeding.

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1800 - 889 - 6020 info@omaxcotspin.com

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43 TVC | MARCH 2022 Sr. No. 842,843,845/1, Near. Petrol Pump, Village Rajsitapur , Ta. Dhrangadhra Dist. Surendranagar. Gujarat. (INDIA).

INTERVIEW-NANDAN TERRY

‘We are creating our own

brands: Ronak B. Chiripal’

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andan Terry Pvt. Ltd incorporated in 2015, started operation from 2016. It is a vertically integrated unit right from cotton to towel. Have spinning, weaving, dyeing and stitching process, it Manufactures towels, selling in export markets as well as domestic brands and markets. Nandan Terry deals with international names like Walmart, Kohls, Biglots, TJX, Ross Stores to United Colors of Benetton, and Trent, Westside, Walmart India, Reliance Retail in domestic markets. It is exporting to countries like US, UK, European countries, South America, Australia, Middle East, and also selling to domestic customers like V Décor, D-mart, Bombay Dyeing. Besides, It is also selling to unorganised retail sectors in India. The entire business has been going on well from the last 5 years, and it Nandan Terry plans to continue growing with backward and forward integration plan in the next couple of years.

Apart from manufacturing terry towels and toweling products, the company also sells the cotton yarn manufactured at its units to achieve better sales realisations.

The company has five manufacturing units and facilities are situated in the state of Gujarat, India and cater to manufacturing of terry towels & toweling products in business – to – business (B2B) segment.

Nandan Terry’s revenues from operations for fiscal 2021 stood at Rs 538.52 crore, a 25.42% year-on-year increase compared to Rs 429.39 crore in fiscal 2020, primarily due to increase in sale of towel and toweling products and sale of cotton yarn. Its annual profit for fiscal 2021 stood at Rs 23.38 crore, which increased from Rs 1.22 crore. For the six months ended September, its revenue was Rs 501.81 crore and profit was Rs 44 TVC | MARCH 2022

30.62 crore. As of October 31, 2021, it had 2037 fulltime employees.

Ronak Brijmohan Chiripal, CEO, Nandan Terry Limited replied to the Textile Value Chain’s queries about the company and the plans for the future.

Excerpts: How was your last two years of pandemic? How the company has sustained?

Seeing from the business prospects the company has actually grown recently because when the lockdown struck the country our factory was running and the demand was there from the US as well as other countries.

Because the retailers probably were selling more, as soon as you know that was not much of a problem in the US. So only for one and a half months, there was a big problem. But then I think most of the retailers, most of the e-commerce people were selling a lot of towels plus covers being an essential product. You know, rather people probably started focusing on more hygiene and, changing their towel more often. And ceaning and washing the towels more often, so that’s why the demand actually grows if you see the entire home textile industry the industry grew basically in the last 2 years.

And as our figures show that we grew since the pandemic, and we continue to grow, so we had a decent demand, and the capacity utilisation increased. We had some problem of labour for probably a couple of months when the government opened up everything, you know when they went back home. So that was the only time when we faced certain issues, but other than that, from the market perspective, we always had a lot of demand for our products, since last two years. So that is why, you can see the top line has grown and also

the capacity.

ternational marketers?

How do you see the next five years?

So we are basically making towels for different retailers, at the same time, we have already registered three brands. The names are Casalino , Humahome, Swadeshi . So we registered this three Brands and we already started manufacturing of Casalino towels.

Probably in the next two months’ time, they should be in the market, and probably by next year we will realise the results of branding exercises. And at least 5 per cent of our manufacturers will be our own brands, so that is what the target is. We also have registered this brand in US So right now we are focusing on Indian market in all the channels, so basically there are four channels. We are focusing on -- one is for protecting, then is retailer, another is the e-commerce, the fourth is hospitality, so these four segments we want to focus in India and in the US. Probably we start with e-commerce, and then gradually you know we might get into other three segments. But as of now in the US only the e commerce and in India probably all the four segments.

I honestly think the next five years should be good. If you see, as I said last couple of years is kind of a reflection to what is going to happen in the next five years, the world is actually adopting a China plus policy, and actually trying to do their business in another countries, and India I think as the most advantageous position here because India was always kind of second or third biggest exporter in this industry. So as a China plus customer strategy in India gets a very good advantage. You can see other countries like Pakistan and Bangladesh where problem is there of raw material like good quality cotton. India has a good quality of cotton so the entire value chain and if we talk about the country the value chain is really well supported for such a business, and when I talk to customers people want to go out of China or the stores of China. They prefer working in India, so I see a lot of growth coming from 2 to 5 businesses. Most of the retailers do not have a home segment like H&M has a home segment; Zara has a home segment so a lot of fashion brands getting to the home textile. So, clearly the business is moving from China to India and this will bring also a lot of growth.

What is your product innovation and R and D strategy for your company?

We have come up with a lot of products like an antiviral towel, which is doing good due to the current pandemic situation, and so we called it Viroshield. We work with designers in UK as well as in Portugal, and then we have a designer in USA. So these designers basically are freelancers. We work with them on a project-to-project basis, so wherever we have this presentation. It will be taken ahead to build a design based on the trends, the current trends and everything. This is one creative side of our R and D. On the other side, we are using our own spinning, we kind of make different types of yarn. We made a yarn called Osmose, which basically is oxygenated, and a special technique makes this unique yarn. This was launched probably three years ago, but we keep doing a lot of R and D and so we have a knowledge sharing platform where everyone comes up with their developments. We have created a model where we kind of grow our top line and bottom line without including a lot of fixed cost.

We are kind of doing contract manufacturing.

Now people are using more sustainable products. So what is your take on this, and what is the future of the sustainable fibre & sustainable products?

The World is focusing a lot on sustainability. And that is a good thing. We have also, kind of taken initiative, made the cotton-hemp towel, we have also made towels using a recycled yarn, which is basically recycled plastic bottles. A lot of cotton post-consumer waste are being recycled, and we use this recycled yarn. I can tell you definitely, I feel that sustainability is going to be the next big thing. The quality or strength of that end might not be as good as probably fresh cotton, which is the best cotton. and I think with advancement of the technology it is possible to make good products because you know a lot of new technologies being launched for making good quality recycled yarn and recycling products. We have already started focusing a lot on sustainable measures and I keep traveling and I see that the world is actually moving towards that.

They have a section for sustainable products. And that is why we also taken an initiative and tried launching a few products on sustainable blends of hemps, a lot of recycled cotton and so on. Of course, the demand is not as much as it could be, but still seeing from the retailer’s perspective it will probably be a reasonable amount.

What is the branding strategy for the Indian and in- Government has the launched PLI scheme of the ben45 TVC | MARCH 2022

efit of the textile industry and recycling industry, so you give to new entrepreneurs entering this textile what is your take on this? field?

The government focus is to promote synthetic textile industry as well as technical textile industry. The focus on the PLI scheme is probably mostly industries like technical textiles, defence manufacturing, diaper, sanitary napkins and all those productions. Towels do not qualify for any of these industries which qualify for PLI scheme, so we don’t have any benefit from the PLI scheme, but this is a very good initiative and I think that will definitely help the industry. But for towels, I don’t really see any advantage.

I think message would be that you know, stick to the basics, sticking to the basics helps us a lot, and personally, such focus has helped me a lot. And secondly, keep innovating and keep up with the new trends, because I have seen in the last five years, like earlier days when things used to stay for 3 to 4 years. Now trends probably stays only for a few months, so I think it’s very important for everyone to keep up with the trend and keep up with the demands of the customer, Be as flexible as possible for the customer. We have As the industry leader what advice & message will always given customers flexibility because they are the ultimate choosers.

A SWOT Analysis of India’s Textile Industry Basesh Gala.

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here are adequate signs for the Indian textile industry to seize the opportunities available today to boost the fortunes lying ahead, says Basesh Gala.

India is the 6th largest exporter of textiles and apparel in the world contributing 5% to the country GDP and 12% of country export earnings. Besides around 4.5 crore people are employed in this industry. As we know textile industry is one of the largest industries in India. So, before we go further let us first understand what is textile.

How did the textile industry start?

Through Wikipedia we got to know that the archaeological studies indicate that around 4000 years ago the people of Harappa civilization knew the weaving and the spinning of cotton. References of weaving and spinning materials are found in the Vedic Literature. There was textile trade in India during the early centuries. Cotton fragments from Gujarat have been found in Egypt which indicate the existence of export of Indian textiles during the medieval era.

Huge quantities of north Indian silks were traded through China to the western countries. During the industrial revolution there were large exports of Indian cotton to the western countries to meet the needs of 46 TVC | MARCH 2022

Europe, besides from domestic requirements at the Indian Ordnance Factories. Till 18th century, Mughal Empire was the most important centre of manufacturing in international trade. Until 1750, about 25% of the world’s industrial output were produced in India. Textile manufacturing, specifically cotton textile manufacturing, which included the production of piece goods, calicos, and muslins, available unbleached and in different colours was the largest manufacturing industry in Mughal Empire during 16th to 18th centuries.

The cotton textile industry was a large part of the empire’s international trade. Bengal owns 25% share of the global textile trade in the early 18th century. Bengal cotton textiles were the most significant manufactured goods in world trade in the 18th century, consumed across the Globe from the Americas to Japan. Bengal Subah province, particularly around its capital city of Dhaka was the most important centre of cotton production. As Karl Marx noted in 1853, the textile industry was a major component of income in the pre-colonial Indian economy, writing that “The handloom and the spinning-wheel, producing their regular myriads of spinners and weavers, were the pivots of the structure of that society”.

Bengal is accounted for 50% of textiles and around 80% of silks imported by the Dutch from Asia and sell it to the world, Bengali silk and cotton textiles were exported to Europe, Asia, and Japan, in large quantities and Bengali muslin textiles from Dhaka were sold in Central Asia, where it was known as “daka” textiles. Indian Ocean trade was dominated by Indian textiles for centuries, and had a 38% share of the West African trade in the early 18th century, while Bengal calicos were a major force in Europe, and Bengal textiles accounted for 30% of total British trade with Southern Europe in the early 18th century.

polluter in the world. As a solution for this, an expected technological advancement is the inclusion of Just in Time (JIT) technology where garments will be created after screening a sample to the customer by Augmented Reality and placing an order. This will save resources and allow customers to choose various prints, colours, and designs without garments being manufactured ADOPTING A NEW MARKETING STRATEGY

Big data is another trend in this sector to market and sell the product. Customer data like purchasing habits, tracking customer location will be processed and an intimation SMS will be dropped to the customer’s smartIn early modern Europe, there was a huge demand for phone if they pass by near sites of retail stores. New textiles from the Mughal Empire, including cotton tex- technologies like visual trial rooms will be adopted in tiles and silk products. European fashion was heavily de- the retail industry as well. pendent on textiles and silks imported from The Mughal Empire. In the late seventeenth and early eighteenth ADVANCE GARMENT centuries, the Mughal Empire accounted for 95% of Brit- Toronto-based pioneer of smart garment manufacturish imports from Asia, conducted through the auspices ing or textile computing Mayant. They create garments of the East India Company (EIC). Once the abolishment that can monitor every move of the advanced garment of slavery within the geographic region, manufacturers user. Tony Chahine, the CEO of Mayant, says these inin the kingdom began to search for different sources teractive materials will sense information from the user. of low-cost cotton, eventually selecting the East India Sensible textiles are touted as the next frontier of wearCompany’s possession in India. The EIC convinced sev- able technology. Yarns are paired with electronic seneral farmers to modify from agriculture to manufactur- sors so essential information may be captured from the ing and exporting huge amounts of cotton, after a long body. Mayant has created a monitoring men’s boxers, period of presidency economic policy obligatory over commercialised under the brand Skin to capture mediBritish textile business. Eventually, through the technical cal-grade biometric data across numerous form factors and marketing advances made possible by colonisation, for both adults and elderly populations. the traditional method of artisan textile production deThe garments will monitor and show the status of ECG, clined significantly and was replaced with large scale body temperature, movement, and respiration. Mafactory production. yant has created a team of developers having numerCurrent trends in the textile industry ous backgrounds like scientists, AI engineers, software According to a Live Mint article, India is home to some developers, garment technologists, fashion designers, of the leading textile companies such as SVP Global Ven- pattern manufacturers, etc. for collaboration and intures, Welspun India, Grasim Industries, Vardhman Tex- teraction to develop an undefeated “smart garment”. tiles, etc. The growing industry figures indicate that our Health observation clothes area unit being created and country is set to touch the USD185 billion by 2024-2025. sold-out within the USA, Canada, and Japan majorly and But the Bizencyclopedia says that the textile technolo- these countries also are a hub of analysis and developgy industry in India is in its early stage where it is look- ment of recent idea fashion. ing past to the outlook of Game-changing & new-tech- FUNCTIONAL CLOTHING nology ideas. But the industry’s real potential is being Functional fabric materials and products are manuutilised on the advancement of what consumer wears, factured primarily using specialised technical textiles. how apparel is designed, manufactured, and marketed These fabrics are highly technological and cater to the to customers. particular requirements of the top user. They’re made Technology in Textile Manufacturing for programmed performance properties instead of their aesthetic or decorative characteristics. Technical JUST IN TIME textiles are getting used in diverse sectors categorized It is said that t he textile industry is the second largest 47 TVC | MARCH 2022

to 5 months, the festive and wedding season sales into 12 major fields of application. For functional clothwere also deeply impacted. ing, technical textiles are getting used within the following sectors, as defined by Techtextil • India’s e-commerce sale of goods and apparel saw a steep rise in 2020, thanks to an increased mar1. Protective clothing - Garments providing protection ket. Work-From-Home drove the demand for casual against cuts, abrasion, and other sorts of severe impact, wear apparel over formals including stab wounds and explosions, ire and extreme heat, hazardous dust and particles, nuclear, biological Government Scheme and chemical hazards, high voltages, electricity, and extreme cold. High-visibility wear also comes into this According to a “THE HINDU” article, the Central government on September 8, 2021 approved a produccategory. tion-linked incentive (PLI) for the textile sector with a 2. Sports-functional clothing- Garments providing monetary fund outlay of ₹10,683 crore. The scheme is high-level of breathability and moisture/vapour transfer for man-made fibre (MMF) attire, MMF materials, and combined with heat insulation and/or wind-proofing, 10 segments/products of technical textiles. According waterproofing, and UV protection to a politician statement, the motivation structure for 3. Medical-functional clothing - Healthcare/hygiene the textile sector is meant to encourage investment in clothing, surgical clothing, Therapeutic clothing, intelli- recent capacities in MMF attire, MMF materials, and ten segments or merchandise of technical textiles. gent functional clothing 4. Clothing for special needs- This category of clothing is worried about improving the standard of life for people with special needs or disabilities One of the significant contributors to the textile industry’s growth in India is SVP Global Ventures. Bouncing back from lockdown impact company show growth in last two quarters. Their product mix of high margin compact cotton yarn, rise in yarn prices, infusion of AI-based technology in manufacturing, and strategic location of the Jhalawar plant at Rajasthan have provided tremendous operational efficiencies. The company worked efficiently during the pandemic.

Impact of Covid on Indian T&A Industry •

•

•

•

Manufacturing shutdown for around 2-3 months, while a few manufacturers who committed their production systems for PPE manufacturing were permitted to function. However, most of the units operated at sub-optimal utilization levels for the next several months.

Disrupted logistics and rigid external trade caused due to the pandemic affected the entire supply chain. India’s April and May 2020 net trade were around 50% lower month-on-month compared to that of the previous year.

Due to the uncertainty across the market, international and domestic buyers cancelled or suspended their orders, adding to the woes of the industry.

Lockdown restrictions across the country resulted in a decline in the retail sales of apparel for at least 4

48 TVC | MARCH 2022

The theme envisages 2 forms of investment with a distinct set of incentive structures. In sort one, any person, (which includes a firm/company) willing to invest a minimum of ₹300 crores within the plant, machinery, and civil works (excluding land and administrative building cost) to supply the notified merchandise are going to be ready to participate in the scheme. Type second sort, anyone willing to take a position a minimum of ₹100 crore are going to be eligible to participate.

The Ministry of Textiles has launched several beneficial schemes to boost the textile industry and support the new and established entrepreneurs within the country.

A number of the main Central Government schemes that were implemented to push the expansion and development of the Technical Textile industry are as follows: •

Scheme for Growth and Development of Technical Textiles (SGDTT).

•

Central Government offers concessional customs duty list of 5% for the coverage of major machinery for technical textile manufacturing.

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Focus Product Scheme provides duty credit scrip for the export products up to 2% of FOB value.

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Technology Mission on Technical Textiles (TMTT).

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Focus Incubation Centres (FIC).

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Scheme for promoting usage of agro-textiles in India (excluding the North-East Region).

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Scheme for promoting usage of agro-textiles in the

dia mainly makes plastic and nylon buttons.

North-East Region.

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Scheme for promoting the usage of Geotechnical textiles in the North-East Region.

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Scheme for Integrated Textile Parks (SITP)

•

India’s exports have fallen 20% to $29 billion in 2020-21, as per the Ministry of Commerce. The domestic market has shrunk 30% to $75 billion in 2020-21 in the past year, as per Wazir Advisors, which estimates that the market will grow to US$190 billion by 2025-26.

•

Achieving the US$65 billion export target up from $36 billion in 2019—will require India to double down in the five key areas - apparel, fabrics, home textiles, man-made fibre, and yarn and technical textiles.

•

Around 65 percent of Indians are under the age of 35 and as this population joins the workforce, they will have increased the spending power that will ultimately lead to increased domestic demand for textile and apparel items.

Opportunities •

•

According to an Economic Times article, small countries like Vietnam and Bangladesh are overtaking India in this industry. Confederation of Indian Industry (CII) and global management consulting firm Kearney’s report suggest that India should set a target of $65 billion in the export of textile. China’s market share is 30%-36% and even a 1% market share shift to India will imply a $10-billion market, because the global textiles trade is $1 trillion.

Textile manufacturers globally and in India import buttons from China and Hong Kong, where the more fashionable wooden or engraved ones are made. In-

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Passive And Active Smart Fabrics & Textiles Consumption Market Size 2022

his report is a comprehensive research study of the global Passive and Active Smart Fabrics and Textiles Consumption markets, taking into account growth factors, recent trends, developments, opportunities, and competitive environment. Market analysts and researchers have performed an extensive analysis of the global Passive and Active Smart Fabrics and Textiles Consumption market with the help of research methodologies such as Pestle and Porter’s Five Forces Analysis. They are providing accurate and reliable market data and useful recommendations aimed at helping players gain insight into the overall current and future market scenarios. The Passive and Active Smart Fabrics and Textiles Consumption report comprises full studies of potential segments including product types, applications, and end-users and their contributions to the overall market size.

The report includes a detailed segmentation study of the global Passive and Active Smart Fabrics and Textiles Consumption market, in which all segments are analyzed in terms of market growth, share, growth rate and other important factors. It also provides the attractiveness index of the segment, allowing players to inform about the profitable revenue pockets of the global Passive and Active Smart Fabrics and Textiles Consumption market. A broad evaluation of the 49 TVC | MARCH 2022

segments provided in the report allows investment, strategy, and teams to focus on the right areas of the global Passive and Active Smart Fabrics and Textiles Consumption market.

The major players covered in Passive and Active Smart Fabrics and Textiles Consumption Markets: Textronics (USA), Milliken (USA), Toray Industries (Japan), Peratech (UK), DuPont (USA), Clothing+ (Finland), Outlast (USA), d3o lab (UK), Schoeller Textiles AG (Switzerland), Texas Instruments (USA), Exo2 (UK), Vista Medical Ltd. (Canada), Ohmatex ApS (Demark), Interactive Wear AG (Germany) The Passive and Active Smart Fabrics and Textiles Consumption market report has been separated according to separate categories, such as product type, application, end-user, and region. Each segment is evaluated on the basis of CAGR, share, and growth potential. In the regional analysis, the report highlights the prospective region, which is expected to generate opportunities in the global Passive and Active Smart Fabrics and Textiles Consumptions market in the coming years.

This segmental analysis will surely prove to be a useful tool for readers, stakeholders and market participants in order to get a complete picture of the global Passive and Active Smart Fabrics and Textiles Consumptions market and its growth potential in the coming years.

VISION To be the supplier of first choice for our customers working in close association with them offering complete Fabric & Apparels related solutions from design to delivery.

QUALITY POLICY KEN endeavors to create value for its customers by setting benchmarks in cost competitiveness, quality parameters and turnaround time. This is to be achieved by a continuous process of product innovation, enhancement of personnel skills and optimum utilization of technology.

WHY KEN...

Diverse product knowledge

Diverse manufacturing capability

Product development & Sampling are undertaken commercially

Ability to deliver & commitment to excellence

Organizational strength & backup to execute large institutional orders

Understanding of Customer needs & ability to service institutional customers to apparels

Technically qualified & competent team to service the customer needs

Fabric Design & Development capability Organization with 800 Members Team

CORPORATE OFFICE +91 230 243 8538

50 TVC | MARCH 2022

9/621, Industrial Estate, Ichalkaranji- 416115, Maharashtra, INDIA.

office@kenindia.in

Special Features

Face Mask in the New Normal: Material, Manufacturing & Testing Aaditya Sushilkumar Patel(Textile Chemistry)*, Akash Sambhaji Deshmukh( Fashion Technology) D.K.T.E. Society’s Textile and Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji, (MS) India.

Email*: aadityapatel174@gmail.com

Abstract: The mask is the accessory which has become a part of contemporary life. It is the part of PPE (personal protection equipment) kit, which is currently used against COVID-19. There are different types of masks. Each mask has different application. This paper will be acknowledging about masks and their functions. Different genre of mask is cloth face mask, surgical mask, N95 respirator, P100 respirator/ gas mask, full face respirator and KN95 respirator. The present study also elucidates the certified test methods for various masks on the basis of evaluation characteristic suggested by ASTM. Tests carried out on the mask are, Bacterial filtration efficiency (BFE), Particular filtration efficiency (PFE), Fluid resistance, Delta P and Flame speed tests.

Keywords: Mask, PPE Kit, COVID-19, N95, ASTM, etc.

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here used to be days when one among very few people around us wore a face/surgical mask in day-to-day life, but now it’s a part of our life. As per Wikipedia, the surgical mask is, “a face mask, intended to be used by the health professionals during the healthcare procedures. It is designed to stop infections in patient and treating personnel by catching the bacteria sheds within the liquid droplets and aerosols from wearer’s mouth and nose”. COVID-19 pandemic has raised the urge to use the mask in day-to-day life.

So, let us know some basic knowledge about the most used accessory the mask in this pandemic via this paper [1][2].

In the financial year 2019, the global market for the mask was US$0.79 billion, and in the financial year 2020, it is expected to have a global market of US$166.44 billion which means within the year the business has grown approximately 210 times (i.e., 21000%).

Careful veils are dispensable gadgets that cover the mouth and nose during operations. They forestall the spread of contamination among the unhealthy and solid populace. Careful covers are commonly utilised in a 51 TVC | MARCH 2022

wellbeing office (clinics, crisis offices, out-patient offices, private consideration offices, crisis clinical benefits) and home medical care conveyance. The Indian surgical mask market could cost US$71.73 million by 2019 and is expected to reach US$157.13 million by 2027, with a CAGR of 10.3% registered need of mask in COVID-19 from 2020 to 2027. [3] Generally, the mask is used to prevent the spread of the diseases, face mask helps in preventing the spread of infection, also an individual from contracting airborne infectious germs. During coughing and sneezing an infected person releases germ into the air that may infect nearby healthy people. Masks are used as a part of an infection control strategy that helps in eliminating cross-contamination. This mask can also be used for the prevention of air pollution-caused diseases.[6] Protection of surgical mask (3 layers) We need to know that how does mask help in being the barrier between the infected person and the healthy person. We all know that Corona virus is a super macro (i.e., 100nm or 0.1um). Usually, the virus cannot exist independently. Transmission of virus takes place from

close contact, secretion, and droplets while sneezing.

Droplet size is nearly 5 microns, i.e., a melt-blown layer is sufficient to infiltrate the droplet viruses. This is because the droplets having the virus will be absorbed on the surface of the melt-blown layer electro statically.

Thus, mask creates a basic barrier between the mouth and nose and the virus. [3]

for Testing and Materials) for the certification process.

The certification required is ASTM F2100.[5] Bacterial filtration efficiency (BFE) BFE measures the filtration capacity of the mask when challenged with the bacteria-containing aerosol. According to ASTM F2101 guidelines, testing is carried out with a droplet size of 3.0 microns containing Staphylococcus aureus (avg. size 0.6 – 0.8 microns). The mask with the 95% filtration is termed as the medical/surgical masks. For moderate or high protection, the criteria are 98% filtration. [5] Particular filtration efficiency (PFE)

Figure 1. Distinct types of surgical mask. [7] Usually, an authentic surgical mask is made up of 3-layers (Inner, Middle, and Outer). 2-layers masks are also used, which are for hygiene and dust purposes but not for viruses & bacteria.

It measures the filtration capacity of the mask for the sub-micron particles, with the expectation that the viruses will be filtered in the same manner. Higher the filtration %, better the mask. It is recommended to test with a particle size of 0.1 microns. While comparing make sure that the size of particles for testing must be recommended. As per ASTM standards F2299 is accepted for medical mask. [5]

Figure 2. Multiple layers of mask [4] Outer layer – is a hydrophobic non-woven layer for water repellent and blood repellent properties.

Middle layer – is a melt-blown layer. It is the highlight of a surgical mask; it works as a filter to prevent entry or exit of germ from the mask.

Inner layer – is a soft absorbent non-woven layer to absorb water, sweat and spit.

The 3-ply masks are effective as N-95 in protecting the respiratory diseases like COVID-19.

Certified test methods for various masks Certain test methods are described below which are carried out to certify a mask as a surgical mask. These test methods are used by the ASTM (American Society 52 TVC | MARCH 2022

Fluid resistance This method is used for the mask used in the surgery. It tests the ability of the outer layer to resist the transfer of the fluid from the outer-layer to the inner-layer. This is done because during surgery due to high blood pressure blood of the human body, blood may get splashed over the face. During this test synthetic blood is used with pressure equivalent to human blood pressure. ASTM 1862 is assigned for fluid resistance test. [5] Delta P (Pressure differential) It measures the breathability of the mask and simultaneously the airflow resistance of the mask. Delta P is

measured in mm H2O/cm2. Lower the value of Delta P more is the breathability. ASTM value for the moderate and the high barrier mask must be less than 5.0 and the value must be less than 4.0 for low barrier mask. Moreover MIL-M369534C is the essential standard for testing Delta-P. [5] Flame speed This test is done to measure the flame resistance of the mask, as hospitals are occupied with oxygen, fuel, heat, etc. The standard mask should resist flame for at least 3 seconds with a specific distance, and it is recognised as 16CFR part 1610.[5] ISO certification For skin sensitivity and cyto-toxic tests, to make sure that harmful materials are not used in the mask, ISO 10993-5, 10 is denoted as standard for manufacturing medical mask. [5]

on 18th June 2021.

2. Jennifer L.W. Fink, RN, BSN, “Types of Masks and How Effective They Are”, Review, Healthgrades, 2020.

3. Jiri Militky, Ondrej Novak, Dana Kremenakova, “A Review of Impact of Textile Research on Protective Face Masks”, Materials, 13 April 2021.

4. Medically reviewed by Deborah Weatherspoo, R.N., Written by Alex Bell, “Different types of face mask to use during the COVID-19 pandemic”, Medical News Today, 2020.

5. Ming hui chua, weiren cheng, shermin simin goh, “Face masks in the new covid-19 normal: material, testing and perspectives”, Research a Science Partner Journal, 2020.

6. Medically reviewed by Deborah Weatherspoon, R.N., Written by Jill Seladi-Schulman, “Can Face Masks Protect You from the 2019 Coronavirus? What Types, When and How to Use”, Healthline, 2020.

7. Explainer: N95? KF95? Which mask is the best at protecting against COVID-19, Written by Manijan maddipatla and Leroy Leo, on REUTERS, 19 January 2021.

Conclusion The above article has an acknowledging view of masks and their use in a recent situation. We get to know how the construction of a mask is designed to protect from viruses transferring airborne. The testing and certification for a generic product of mask have brief in this article. Secondly, the product ergonomics is also taken into consideration. Finally, the market scenario where lately there was not more market value as compared to a recent market where the mask production is considered as an essential required good. The mask manufacturers’ business today is 210 times more than in the previous years.

References 1. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surgical_mask, cited 53 TVC | MARCH 2022

Italian Textile Machinery at Techtextil North America 2022 The next edition of Techtextil North America will take place in Atlanta from May 17nd to 19th. At Atlanta ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers, and Italian Trade Agency organize an Italian Pavilion, where 17 Italian machinery manufacturers involved in the production of machines for technical textiles will show their innovative solutions.

ACIMIT members exhibiting in the Italian Pavilion are: 4M Plants, Aeris, Arioli, Computer House, Fadis, Flainox, Guarneri Technology, Ima, Kairos Engineering, Mcs, Ramina, Siltex, Stalam, Testa, Willy.

The US textile industry is one of the top in US manufacturing sector, with a sales volume of exceeding US$ 64 billion in 2020, with approximately 300,000 workers and about 15,000 companies. The industry’s strength lies in cotton, man-made fibers, and a wide variety of yarns and fabrics, including those for apparel and industrial uses.

In 2021, the USA represented the third market for Italian textile machinery exports, behind China and Turkey. In 2021 January-September period the value of Italian sales to US market was 93 million Euros, an increase of 74% compared to the same period of the previous year.

Visit us at ACIMIT/ITA Booth (2133, 2233 and 2333).

Events

BSE Hosts Special Meet by

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TVC Editorial Team

special meet of India’s leading farmers & farmer companies with Industry, policy makers and BSE Management on February 22, 2022 in the BSE International Convention Hall celebrated a mission of “Atmanirbhar Krushi” on the occasion of “Azadi ka Amrut Mahotsav.” The programme was organised with 3 important agendas: 1. Inauguration of special book by Cottonguru® on “BSE Journey with Cotton Farmers/ Farmer Producer Organisatiions (FPOs). 2. Signing of an MoU between BSE and Cottonguru MahaFPO, a Federation of over 50 other FPOs comprising over 35,000 farmers.

3. Policy advocacy to increase the yield and income of Indian cotton farmers.

The major event was the inauguration of the book on “BSE Journey” with Cotton Farmers/Farmer Producer Organisations (FPOs). This book will take you all through the extensive Journey of about 200 webinars with same number of FPOs conducted by Cottonguru® with support from BSE. The webinars covered everything from sowing to marketing, micro finance options, Govt. schemes & business planning. The subjects were chosen as per the need of the participating FPO. Market updates were shared in every webinars so that the farmers are able to make profits out of their agri produce, especially cotton.

Indian farmers are the backbone of our nation’s economy. Agriculture sector accounts for 18% of India’s GDP and provides employment to nearly 60% workers. India is the largest producer of cotton in the world but cotton farmers are prone to all sorts of risks such as price risk, disease risk, climate risk, etc.

BSE has started this series of webinars to link farmers to futures trade for price risk management. Cotton bales trading encompasses a long chain of activities which must be integrated in seamless value addition from production to marketing. This is extremely difficult.

Cottonguru Maha Farmer Producer Co. Ltd (Commonly known as Cottonguru Maha FPO Federation), is a glori54 TVC | MARCH 2022

ous example of FPOs trading in cotton futures platform.

It is a market-oriented company which provides integrity, sustainability & profitability for shareholders and customers. Cottonguru Maha FPO established farmer centric aggregation and marketing model in cotton and has signed an MoU with the BSE for assisting other FPOs in price discovery & risk management.

The event was attended by Mr Ashishkumar Chouhan (BSE MD & CEO), Mr Sameer Patil (Chief Business Officer), Mr Pinakin Dave (Deputy General Manager) & other BSE and BSE- IPF team members. Cottonguru® team was represented by Mr Manish Daga (MD), Ms Chhaya Daga (Director) and other members from agriculture and marketing dept.

Directors of India’s 15 most progressive Farmer Producer Organisations (FPO’s) working in cotton had come from all parts of Maharashtra, M.P. and North India. One of the Directors Mr Pralhad Borgad (Surya FPO,Hingoli) has had direct conversation with Hon. Prime Minister Mr Narendra Modi for extraordinary trade on e-Naam online trading platform. Other Director Dr. Vijay Ladole (Vaipulya FPO, Vidarbha) has recently visited Uzbekistan to study on increasing yield. Both these personalities are founder members of Cottonguru MahaFPO Federation.

Advisors of Cottonguru MahaFPO Federation who graced the occasion with their presence were Dr. Sudhir Goel (Former Additional Chief Secretary, Agriculture & Marketing, Govt. of Maharashtra) and Mr G. Chandrasekhar (Economic Advisor IMC Chamber and Director IMC-ERTF). Other dignitaries & thought leaders who attended the event were Mr. Sanjay Panigrahi (Marketing – Cotton Corporation of India), Mr. Deepak Tavare (CMD – Maharashtra State Warehouse Corporation), Mr. Hareshwar Magare (Maharashtra State Rural Livelihoods Mission), Mr. Vijay Koleker (Project on Climate Resilient Agriculture in Maharashtra), Mr Amit Naphade (Krushi Vikas NGO) and Mr. Ashutosh Deshpande (Reliance Foundation).

During his presentation, Cottonguru® shared the following suggestions for policy makers. 1) Tax benefit for investors of Farmer Producer Organisation (FPO). 2) Market-facing companies will require significant infusion of capital, which can be facilitated by modifying the Producer Companies Act 2002 to allow PCs to raise external capital through a different class of shares with no voting rights, and with restrictions on the maximum amount of equity per external investor. 3) Encourage CSR spending on projects by FPO Federations and it’s member FPOs. 4) The market-facing companies can be registered as social enterprises

Everyone in the gathering agreed that agriculture has a great role and potential in India’s economy. The current target of US$50 billion export is sustainable only if we focus on exports of processed agro produce, building strong supply chains & increasing direct participation of FPOs & farmers in processing & exports. Strong rural economy will lead to increase in consumption, demand, employment, expenditure & ultimately result in increasing India’s GDP. “Kisaan Hasega toh desh basega”. The event was organised by Cottonguru® and Hosted by BSE.

ZDHC South Asia Region Conference on April 29

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ZDHC South Asia Region is presenting its third Regional Conference on 29th April 2022 at The Lalit Hotel, Sahar Road, Andheri East, Mumbai, India!

he theme of the conference is “Moving together to create a better planet”. Chemicals impact our planet in terms of clean water, clean air and clean soil, hazardous waste, worker safety, circularity, biodiversity preservation and climate change (through GHG emissions). Sound chemical management is at the heart of reducing these impacts on the environment.

The conference will showcase how the ZDHC Roadmap to Zero Programme is ensuring that textile & leather production activities and a safer planet can co-exist.

Representatives from all stakeholders in the textile and leather value chain – Brands, manufacturers, chemical formulators, solution providers, industry associations and academia – are expected to attend this conference, where industry experts and peers will speak and debate on how we can collaborate and join forces to create a better planet through best practices and innovations in sustainable chemical management. Ms Dipali Goenka, CEO & Jt MD at Welspun India, will be our keynote speaker.

• Apparel Alliance collaboration – the key to the future • ZDHC engagement model • Brand journeys with ZDHC • Role of stakeholders in accelerating ZDHC • Innovations in sustainable chemistry, machinery (waterless dyeing technology), process optimization & resource efficiency and wastewater treatment technologies • Tools for implementing sound chemical management at a factory The conference will end with a visual experience on the theme through a dance ballet.

Registrations to the Conference are now open through the Events page on the ZDHC website www.roadmaptozero.com. Go to “Resources” tab and click on “Events”. If not registered on the tool, you can ‘create account’ and then log-in with your credentials to ‘book The event will be held in- person but will also be an event’. streamed live through the ZDHC Virtual Platform for a The Conference can be attended in -person OR virtuglobal audience. The topics that will be covered are: al. The delegate fee for in-person attendance is Euro • Building ZDHC Programme Excellence 60/- (Early bird fee till 15th April 2022), while for the ‘Virtual’ option through our Virtual Platform, it is Euro • Scaling ZDHC adoption and accelerating impact 40/- per delegate. The Conference will be conducted in English.

55 TVC | MARCH 2022

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Events

Shujaul Rehman, CEO of GTFL, appointed VC of CII Pune

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r. Shujaul Rehman, Chief Executive Officer of Garware Technical Fibres Ltd., has been nominated as the Vice Chairman of Confederation of Indian Industry (CII) Pune Zonal Council for the year 2022-23. CII Pune held its 22nd annual meeting on February 24 and formed a new zonal council for the year 2022-23. The meeting was organised at Hotel Conrad in Pune and was attended by esteemed members of the organisation.

Mr. Shujaul Rehman holds an MBA from Aligarh Muslim University’s Faculty of Management and Research. He is a graduate of Harvard Business School’s Advanced Management Program and a Harvard Business School alumnus. He has worked at Cadbury, Marico Industries, and CEAT in various roles.

lish and maintain an environment that is favourable to India’s development through advising and consultative processes. CII is a non-profit, industry-led and managed organisation with over 9000 members from the commercial and governmental sectors, including SMEs and multinational corporations, and an indirect membership of over 300,000 businesses from 294 national and regional industry associations.

“I am honoured to have been appointed as the Vice Chairman of a prestigious body like CII Pune. CII actively contributes to the development of the nation by maintaining a strong partnership between the industry and the government. As the VC, my goal will be to make use of all my experience and learnings into taking forward CII Pune in a positive direction,”

He has maintained a sharp focus on client centricity, smooth execution, and an instinctive ability to anticipate future trends and consumer requirements as the CEO of GTFL, ensuring that the company continues its path of profitable growth driven by innovative solu“For more than 125 years, CII has been engaged in tions. shaping India’s development journey and works pro“I am honoured to have been appointed as the Vice actively on transforming Indian Industry’s engagement Chairman of a prestigious body like CII Pune. CII ac- in national development. CII charts change by working tively contributes to the development of the nation by closely with Government on policy issues, interfacing maintaining a strong partnership between the indus- with thought leaders, and enhancing efficiency, comtry and the government. As the VC, my goal will be to petitiveness and business opportunities for industry make use of all my experience and learnings into tak- through a range of specialized services and strategic ing forward CII Pune in a positive direction,” Mr. Shu- global linkages. It also provides a platform for consenjaul Rehman stated. sus-building and networking on key issues,” the CII ofThe Confederation of Indian Industry (CII) collaborates ficial website states. with industry, government, and civil society to estab57 TVC | MARCH 2022

REMOVE IMPURITIES FROM TEXTILES THROUGH SUSTAINABLE CHEMICALS Introducing Sequest DM & Sequest SA Organic Complexing Agents that remove iron from textiles and enhance whiteness index of the fabric

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58 TVC | MARCH 2022

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Events

Resource-saving in TextilE Processing: A Successful Webinar

well proven on the market, with over 150 Monforts Thermex lines already in operation at mills worldwide.

Reactive dyestuffs are fixed into the fabric in a onestep dyeing and drying process with a controlled combination of steam and air. The entire pad-dry process takes just two-to-three minutes at a temperature of between 120-130°C and a relative humidity volume of 25-30%.

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ver 600 delegates from 58 countries subscribed to the latest VDMA textile machinery webinar on sustainable dyeing held on February 3rd, 2022 – a record since the monthly online series started in June 2020. The webinar, entitled ‘Resource-saving in Textile Processing – Continuous Dyeing and Washing’, involved the three companies Monforts, DyStar® and Goller.

In outlining the capabilities of Monforts Thermex hotflue lines for the Econtrol® continuous dyeing process, the company’s Textile Technologies Engineer Jonas Beisel observed that the current industry focus is very much on cleaner processes and products in accordance with the Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) commitments of the major fashion brands, and with further regulations to be expected.

“It is clear the textile industry has to adjust to this situation through new investments that enable a significant reduction in resource consumption to be achieved, but are easy to integrate into existing production systems, and Econtrol® lines fit the bill,” he said.

Cellulosics Econtrol® is a continuous process for the dyeing of woven cellulosic fabrics that has already been 59 TVC | MARCH 2022

“The parameters for fixing reactive dyes are the temperature, the duration and the alkali content, but reactive dyes need a certain temperature in order to be fixed quickly,” Beisel said. “The Monforts solution is to raise the so-called “wet bulb temperature” inside the dyeing chamber with steam. This ensures the surface of the fabric is heated up to a stable temperature of around 68 degrees before being increased as the residual moisture of the fabric is drawn away.”

Benefits The Econtrol® pad-dry process has a number of immediate benefits. Compared to the common pad-drypad-steam process, no salt is used and no steamer is required for a separate fixation step.

Compared to the pad-dry-thermofix process, no urea is used and no smoke or deposits are generated, and unlike with the cold pad batch process, direct feedback of the dyeing results ensures no batching time is necessary and guarantees good reproducibility from the lab to bulk production.

An immediate wash off is also unnecessary, allowing for flexible production planning. The process is suitable for pale to dark shades with very good fastness properties.

Complementary services and systems Complementing the Monforts presentation during the webinar, Bertram Seuthe, Global Business Development Manager at DyStar, outlined the importance of specific Levafix® /Remazol® reactive dyes and Dianix® disperse dyes for sustainable dyeing processes such as Econtrol®, Cadira® Continuous and CPB knit. In these processes Sera® auxiliaries are also employed for optimised wash-off results.

– and on a washing effect independent of the fabric speed, with simultaneous gentle fabric transport. The continuously adjustable speed of the internal rotor causes on one hand an overpressure which presses the liquor through the transport drum and the fabric and on the other hand an underpressure which sucks the liquor through the fabric and transport drum.

This interaction ensures a very good and intensive flow of the washing liquor through the fabric on the drum and results in a very high washing effect, independent of the fabric speed.”

The Goller Effecta module has been developed to meet customer requests for a lower space requirement, as well as low liquor content to optimise the use of water.

“The smaller distance between the upper and bottom roller helps the system to reduce edge curling on non-dimensional stable articles and additionally, the Thermplate heating system ensures a good, even Guido Seiler, Area Sales Manager at and effective heating of the liquor inside the compartFong’s Europe, also introduced the ment,” Seiler explained, adding that the washing prolatest developments of the Goller cess comprises three separate steps – surface cleaning, brand for the washing process, which can reduce wa- soaping and rinsing and neutralisation with final rinse. ter consumption by between 10 to 20%, as well as re- “Depending on the requested fabric speed, different ductions in both heating energy and waste generation, washing compartments are required. During surface depending on the specific fabric construction and re- cleaning the main target is to remove the unfixed quired shade. dyestuff from the fabric by high washing action. The “The Goller Sintensa Cyclone has a unique washing Goller solution for this process is the Sintensa Cyclone, mechanism which is not affected by the fabric speed,” whereas the Effecta is employed in the other steps Seiler said. “The concept of the line is based on a pro- where more time is required to achieve the required grammable washing action – from low to very high result.”

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Swiss Technology

Fascination of Narrow Fabrics: Jakob Muller’s Digital World TVC Editorial Team

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igitisation runs through the entire value-added process, from logistics to the end consumer. The Jakob Müller Group covers a large part of “Smart Production” and makes a major contribution to making the process chain even more efficient and sustainable.

Any solution in Jakob Müller Group’s digital portfolio is clearly focusing on customer benefit. In this context mymueller® - the Jakob Müller Group’s customer portal plays an important role. The mymueller® customer portal provides access to company-specific information, know-how, services and license products - online – around the clock - worldwide. mymueller® displays the customer’s machine park on desktop computers,

smartphones or tablets. In addition, operating instructions and spare parts catalogues can be called up and spare parts orders can be triggered. All in all, a “carefree package”, which is constantly extended with additional services and products for the worldwide customer base.

One of the latest products out of Jakob Müller Group’s license product portfolio is the browser-based data acquisition and management software mymuenet®.

Today’s market environment requires flexible, fast and secure exchange and access to data at all company levels - worldwide. The production data management plays an important role here. In this context Jakob Müller Group is providing a browser-based solution.

The mymuenet® production data acquisition and management system with direct access to the machine controls offers a unique data monitoring, communication and exchange in a global framework. Furthermore designs, which are being created by Jakob Müller Group’s design software MÜCAD can be transferred through 61 TVC | MARCH 2022

mymuenet® to machines in any location worldwide.

Digitalisation however does not only refer to software solutions, but also applies on end products in the field of Smart Textiles.

One of the latest products out of Jakob Müller Group’s license product portfolio is the browser-based data acquisition and management software mymuenet®.

For this constantly growing market Jakob Müller Group is providing specific machine technology for processing i.e., conductive yarns for various applications with digital features like humidity measurement, integrated solar cells and many others.

We Cover everything in TEXTILEs!

Swiss Technology

Saurer: Strides in Digitalisation TVC Editorial Team

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The digital mill management system Senses bundles and analyses production, quality and performance data across all divisions. Even machines from thirdparty manufacturers can be managed. In real time. Secure. From everywhere.

y harnessing the power of the internet, Saurer empowers its customers through a range of digitalised innovations, including the Senses mill management system, Secos – Saurer Customer Portal, Saurer Academy and remote service.

As Saurer has transformed itself from a machine provider to a solution provider for customers along the entire textile value chain, interconnectivity and digitalisation have become vital. Since digital solutions are accessible remotely, Saurer customers are no longer limited by distance and also save time. Whether they need to order an original part, optimise the processes within their machines or have a machine serviced, customers can access the most relevant information pertaining to Saurer products as the information updates and without waiting for an external party to visit their mills.

An early start into digitalisation Saurer started early into digitalisation of its spinning machinery. 10 years ago, Saurer launched the revolutionary Autocoro 8 that already offered the digitalised option DigiPiecing and DigiWinding. Today, Saurer is looking back at over 1 million supplied spinning positions of Autocoro 8/9/10. The customers benefit from 62 TVC | MARCH 2022

the single-spindle technology, unprecedented productivity due to intelligent automation and digitalization.

The latest version, Autocoro 10, is a secure platform for Industry 4.0 in the rotor spinning mill.

On the ring spinning side Saurer offers digitalised features like Optispeed. Together with the ISM (individual spindle monitoring) Optispeed is a function for selfoptimisation of the spindle speed depending on the yarn break rate. The operator can set the limits for yarn breaks per 1000 spindle hours. Optispeed automatically raises or lowers the spindle speed, optimising productivity.

Digitalisation and Automation The Saurer Robot AGV is designed for the ergonomic handling and transportation of cylindrical or conical cross-wound packages. It picks up the packages from a pallet, buggy, trolley or from the conveyor belt of the machine and stores them in its internal buffer system.

Due to the modern laser navigation system, the Saurer Robot AGV moves fully automatically and autonomously through your mill. It detects obstacles in its path independently and drives around them or stops if the

minimum safety distance is not maintained.

Secos assistance functions – saving time in day-today business

The Secos – Saurer Customer Portal is more than just an e-shop for Saurer original parts. With the updated version of the portal, it is easier for customers to find original parts – with photo uploads, customers can quickly identify the required original part they need.

In the user’s Secos account, all machine-related manuals and technical documentation for their machines machines - all in one system. With Senses, customers are saved for quick reference in case of questions on can carry out various analyses to control the producoperation and maintenance. Like Senses, Secos can be tivity and quality within their mills remotely using any accessed mobile anytime, from any mobile device. device. With the customisable Senses cockpit, customers can focus on the key data that is relevant to them. Saurer Academy – turning employees into experts This platform offers a wide range of training and furThe system also provides the user with relevant key information, helping them to solve problems quickly ther education courses for machine operators. Cusand efficiently e.g., that a spinning position is not per- tomers can book classroom and live web-based trainforming optimally due to the number of yarn breaks. ing courses. In addition, the Saurer Academy offers e-learning courses with multimedia, audio-visual trainThe efficiency of an entire machine is based on the cuing material that explain complex issues and processmulated efficiency of each spinning position. In order es in a clear and easy-to-understand manner. Course to increase machine efficiency, Senses’ off-standard contents include training on the function, operation function pinpoints single positions with low efficiency and maintenance of Saurer machines and their assemby monitoring all machines after every shift change. It blies. Web-based trainings (WBTs), recorded webinars then visualises all outliner positions, allowing the cus- and learning cards give employees the flexibility to tomer decide for themselves when, where and at what pace to implement countermeasures. With this function, they want to learn. Knowledge tests with certificates the customer is able to increase the overall efficiency allow workers to keep track of their progress and review the work. by 2−3%.

The mill management system’s basic functionality In 2021, during training sessions with a South African can be extended with Senses Elements, which can be customer, the Saurer Academy team also arranged for specialists from various Saurer departments to join seamlessly integrated into all processes. These are the class during the live virtual training sessions, to additional features to increase functionality for key answer specific questions the customer’s employees areas. Each Element focuses on a specific area: for exhad. After each training session, Q&A rounds were ample, the Senses Element Maintenance digitalises, held to address structures specific issues that the attendees may encounter, and simplifies all maintenance processes to increase along with solutions. This virtual offering has also productivity. Senses Workforce digitalises personnel proved particularly useful during the pandemic, when management and improves the efficiency of staff. it was not With Senses possible for trainers to travel on-site.

Element Shop Floor, customers can optimise their increases productivity by optimising operator guidance, Remote service – have our Twisting experts inside your machine in minutes shortening the distances they need to walk in the Senses mill management system integrates all machines into one system Saurer consolidates all digital information in Senses and has ensured that this mill management system can be integrated seamlessly into spinning plants. Senses enables customers to connect all their Saurer machines and allows third-party

plant. Senses Recipe enables customers to monitor and adjust the settings of their machines.

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Saurer experts can access a fully digital read-out of the error log, which allows them to identify any issues im-

mediately. They can also adjust machine control settings, update software and do diagnostics checks of any hardware defects as well as check CPU usage, energy consumption and machine temperature. This means getting the customer’s machine running at optimal capacity faster with less downtime. Using the Saurer remote service is also more affordable than calling out a technician. This service is particularly beneficial to customers that are located in more remote areas.

Again, such services have been invaluable during the past lockdown-prone years.

Illustrating how this works in practice, Saurer technicians were able to remotely detect two defective pieces of hardware and restore a customer’s recipe list in just two hours. On another occasion, our technical staff quickly and successfully solved a major machine breakdown in 30 minutes, avoiding an unnecessary and costly onsite intervention.

Digitalisation has revolutionised traditional services such as site visits, in-person training and machine troubleshooting. Even Secos goes beyond being an e-shop but is instead a knowledge base tailored to each user. Increasing digitalisation, combined with functions that enhance machine intelligence – such as Optispeed, DigiWinding and DigiPieicing in the case of Saurer – will boost interconnectivity, allowing machines within Saurer systems to communicate, further providing customers with added benefits in the mill.

The Saurer Group, founded in 1853, is a leading, globally active technology company with a focus on machines and components for yarn production. As a company with a long heritage, textile machinery, automobiles and engines have all been important parts of the company’s portfolio during the historical development of Saurer. Saurer has always been an innovation leader. Today, Saurer consists of two segments: Spinning Solutions, which offers high-quality, technologically advanced and customer-specific automated solutions for staple fibre processing from bale to yarn, and Saurer Technologies, which specialises in twisting and embroidery solutions. With around 4 000 employees, the Saurer Group, with locations in Switzerland, Germany, Turkey, Brazil, Mexico, the USA, China, India, Uzbekistan, and Singapore, is well equipped to serve the world’s textile centres. Saurer is listed on the Shanghai Stock Exchange.

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Ministry plans for export incentives in textile sector

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he Australian cotton industry’s top performers for 2021 have been announced in front of industry peers at one of the best attended field days in northern New South Wales.

The Bayer Cotton Grower of the Year for 2021 is Quigley Farms at Trangie in the Macquarie Valley. The winner of the AgriRisk High Achiever of the year is Ashley Geldard from Columboola Cotton near Miles in the Western Downs of Queensland.

Cotton Australia CEO Adam Kay joined sponsors Bayer and AgriRisk in congratulating both winners for their achievements. “Tony Quigley and Ashley Geldard are both outstanding cotton farmers at different stages of their cotton journey, yet they are united in their commitment to sustainability, in particular efficient water use and soil health. They are exceptionally worthy award winners.”

Tony Quigley is a 4th generation farmer, and with the help of wife Sally, sons Tom, George and Richie and staff they run Quigley Farms, a diversified and integrated family farming operation in the Trangie/Nevertire districts of the Macquarie Valley.

During the judging process Tony said: “The 20/21 crop will produce spectacular WUE results, with the furrow fields yielding 15.25 bales/ha for 5.7 ML applied (2.67 bales/ML), and the linear move around 14.4 bales/ha for 4.43 ML applied (3.25 bales/ML). The result has been achieved with the guidance of Chris McCormack of Agronomic Business Solutions who has been with us for 28 years.”

Sally and Tony’s sons have centred their tertiary studies around agriculture with Tom qualified in agribusiness while George and Richie have completed agricultural science degrees. Both Tom and Richie have been Nuffield Scholars and all three have a financial stake in the farms with associated debt. Sally and Tony have stepped back from operational duties to transition to retirement with management transferring to the boys, who are taking the farm to the next level.

Corporate News

BRÜCKNER presents many products for nonwovens at IDEA 2022 TVC Editorial Team

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or more than 70 years BRÜCKNER has been the world leader in the construction of drying and finishing lines for the textile and nonwovens industry. In the nonwovens sector, the German family-owned company supplies worldwide thermofusion ovens, dryers, coating and heat-setting lines.

On the IDEA 2022 trade fair in Miami, USA, BRÜCKNER presents together with its American representation FITECH new machine concepts and solutions for different applications in the mentioned fields. Convince yourself in a personal conversation with our experts of the innovative technologies of BRÜCKNER. Visit Bruckner Booth No. 4101 directly at the entrance of the exhibition hall.

The production of nonwovens always requires a bonding process after the nonwovens formation, where the loosely laid fibres are bonded to a resilient fibre composite. For this purpose, depending on the process, different ovens and dryers are used. BRÜCKNER offers the specific knowhow and supplies the necessary lines for all applications.

The production programme is completed by different impregnation and coating units as well as slitting and winding equipment. BRÜCKNER’s customers produce geo nonwovens, filter media, hygiene and medical textiles or different fabrics for the automotive and transport industry. For each customer an individual solution and a corresponding line layout is designed.

Recently BRÜCKNER realized several extraordinary installations in the field of high loft nonwovens and geotextiles.

For the production of high loft nonwovens the double-belt 65 TVC | MARCH 2022

thermofusion oven SUPRA-FLOW BX is used. This oven system operates according to the air-through principle and can be perfectly adapted to the product requirements in terms of flow speed, flow direction and temperature on a field-by-field basis. Typical end products include mattresses, bedspreads, upholstery, wiping cloths, automotive components or insulating materials. The SUPRA-FLOW BX can produce nonwovens up to a thickness of 280 mm and a basis weight of max 8 kg/m². The available working widths vary between 2400 and 5200 mm at production speeds of up to 100 m/min.

For geotextile projects, the proven POWER-FRAME stenter is usually used, which impresses with its high uniformity in terms of temperature distribution as well as maximum productivity. In addition, the fabric can be stretched in a targeted manner by transporting it in the stenter chain.

This has a controlled influence on fabric width, fibre orientation and fabric shrinkage. Working widths of up to over 7 meters are not uncommon with geotextile finishing systems. Depending on the required width, maximum temperature, stretching forces and other process requirements, the optimum solution is found for each customer.

Fabric trials are also possible at any time in BRÜCKNER’s Technology Center in Leonberg, Germany. The expert team of BRÜCKNER and FI-TECH will be pleased to advise you on your very special application.

We Cover A to Z in TEXTILEs!

Corporate News

Oerlikon Barmag celebrates its 100th anniversary

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TVC Editorial Team

hen the manmade fibre age began a century ago, a German company was responsible for the pio-neering work involved. Barmag, established in 1922, was

one of the world’s first companies to construct machines for the large-scale production of syn thetic staple fibres.

To this day, the leading manufacturer of manmade fibre spinning systems and texturing machines in Remscheid – a brand under the aegis of the Swiss Oerlikon Group since 2007 – has sha-ped technological progress in this sector; in future, with ever more inno vations focusing on sustaina-bility and digitalisation.

Barmer Maschinenfabrik Aktiengesellschaft (Barmag) is founded in Barmen, located in the Bergische Land region, on March 27, 1922. The German and Dutch founders enter unchartered technological ter-ritory, one created as the result of a groundbreaking invention: in 1884, French chemist Count Hilaire Bernigaud de Chardonnet used nitrocellulose to produce the first so-called artificial silk, later known as rayon. The following decades see rapid development focusing on the search for synthetic textile fibres and their manufacturing technologies.

As one of the first machine factories, Barmag battles its way through the eventful early years of the manmade fibre industry, the ‘Roaring Twenties’ and the Great Depression – and suffers the extensive destruction of its factories at the end of World War Two. Rebuilding is successful. With the un-stoppa ble success story of purely

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synthetic plastic fibres such as polyamide, the company flourishes from the 1950s through to the 1970s, establishing sites in all international, for the textile industry at the time important, industrial regions and garnering prestige across the globe in the process. In the ups and downs of expansion, global competition and crises, Barmag reaches the very pinnacle of the market and becomes the preferred technological development partner for the manmade fibre indust-ries in China, India and Turkey. The company has been a high-impact brand under the umbrella of the Oer likon Group since 2007.

On the wings of innovation Today, Oerlikon Barmag is a leading supplier of manmade fibre filament spinning systems and part of the Manmade Fibers Solutions business unit of the Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions Division. And our aspirations have not diminished: “The striving towards innovation and technological lea-der ship has been, is and will always be part of our DNA”, emphasises Georg Stausberg, CEO of Oerli-kon Polymer Processing Solutions.

In the past, this has been observable in such trailblazing innovations as the revolutionary WINGS gene-ration of winders for POY in 2007 and WINGS for FDY in 2012. Currently, the focus of new and further developments is very much on digitalisation and sustainability. Here, Oerlikon Barmag has – as one of the world’s first systems manufacturers – been implementing fully-networked smart factories for glo-bally-leading polyester manufacturers since the end of the last decade. Within this context, digital solutions and automation are also helping to provide greater climate and environmental compatibility.

fers engineering solutions for the entire textile value added chain.

This sustainability commitment is not only evidenced by the e-save label introduced for all products back in 2004: Oerlikon is endeavoring to also make all its sites carbon-neutral by 2030 and to acquire its energy exclusively from renewable sources. An ambitious target, whose achievement could be hel-ped by the Oerlikon Barmag anniversary, states Georg Stausberg: “Innovation begins with creativi ty. And remembering the past provides plenty of motivation and inspiration for the future.”

Oerlikon (SIX: OERL) develops modern materials, systems and surface technologies and provides spe-cialized services aimed at securing high-performance products and systems with long lifespans for customers. Supported by its technological core competencies and its strong financial footing, the cor-poration continues its medium-term growth plan by implementing three strategic factors: focusing on attractive growth markets, ensuring structural growth and expanding through targeted M&A activities.

Oerlikon is a globally-leading technology and engineering corporation, operating its business in two segments (Surface Solutions and Manmade Fibers) and employing around 11,000 members of staff at 182 sites in 37 countries worldwide. In 2019, Oerlikon generated sales of CHF 2.6 billion and invested more than CHF 120 million in research & development.

Furthermore, Oerlikon offers a range of a high-precision flow control solutions. This currently includes a large selection of gear metering pumps for the textile and other sectors such as automobile construction, the chemical industry and the dyes and lacquers industry.

With Oerlikon HRSflow, the division develops innovative hot runner systems for the polymer processing industry. In collaboration with Oerlikon Balzers, it offers highly-efficient, effective coating solutions from a single source.

As a future-oriented company, the research and development at this division of the Oerlikon Group is driven by energy efficiency and sustainable technologies (e-save).

With its range of polycondensation and extrusion systems and their key components, the company caters to the entire manufacturing pro-cess – from the monomer all the way through to the textured yarn and other innovative polymer ma-terials and applications. The product portfolio is rounded off with automation and Industrie 4.0 soluti-ons.

The primary markets for the product portfolio of Oerlikon Barmag are in Asia, especially in China, India and Turkey, and – for those of Oerlikon Neumag and Oerlikon Nonwoven – in the USA, Asia, Turkey and Europe. Oerlikon HRSflow is, above all, active in the key automotive markets. These include Ger-many, China, Korea and Brazil.

With its Oerlikon Barmag, Oerlikon Neumag, Oerlikon Worldwide, the division – with more than 4,500 employNonwoven and Oerlikon HRSflow brands, the Oerlikon ees – has a presence in 120 countries with production, Polymer Processing division focuses on manmade fibres sales and distribution and service organizations. At the plant engineering and flow control equipment solutions. research and development centers in Remscheid, NeuOerlikon is one of the leading providers of manmade fi- münster (both Germany), San Polo di Piave / Treviso bre filament spinning sys-tems, texturing machines, BCF (Italy) and Suzhou (China), highly-qualified engineers, systems, staple fibre systems and solutions for the pro- technologists and technicians develop innovative and duction of non-wovens and – as a service provider – of- technologically-leading products for tomorrow’s world.

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Corporate News

Uster’s Quality Management Platform Makes a Huge Difference to Shopfloor Personnel TVC Editorial Team

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ooking for vital information in a busy textile mill can be quick and easy – or a tedious job, turning mi-nutes into hours. Heavy e-mail traffic can just add to the burden. That’s why leading Vietnamese pro-ducer Hoa Tho Textile chose Uster Quality Expert, to give fast access to centralized key data and drive major efficiency benefits.

turing processes. A single system provides full transparency and complete control, securing fibre, yarn and fabric quality. All information is in one place – definitely a valuable benefit of Quality Expert. Hoa Tho connected its Uster AFIS Pro 2, Uster Tester 6, Uster Tensojet 5 and Uster Quantum 3 yarn clearers to this one system.

Founded in 1962, Hoa Tho is part of one of Vietnam’s largest and longest-established textile and garment enterprises. Operating a number of mills, the company wanted to ensure that quality stan-dards were equal across all of them – and equally high, to serve customers in demanding markets such as the USA, Europe, Japan and South Korea.

So quality management must be comprehensive, including data from different locations as well as various instruments and systems, for quick reports and smart analysis.

One-stop quality data

With Quality Expert in place, the mill managers now have a common reference to compare quality levels in each mill. They can now access quality information very easily. Previously more time was needed to create quality reports, which were then distributed by email. “The information took too long to reach the right people and was not always up to date. Now, the latest quality results are available in real time and any required action can be taken immediately,” says Nguyen Huu Khanh, Manager of the Yarns Technology Department at Hoa Tho Textile.

Uster Quality Expert is the Quality Management Platform for advanced process optimisation across yarn manufac-

Connecting to Uster Quality Expert is the route to effective

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The all-round view

all-round process optimization in textile mills. The system expands its insightful analytics with valuable intelligence, as each additional in-strument is connected. It is the ultimate Quality Management Platform to drive consistent quality in every part of the spinning process. That’s what decided the Vietnamese spinning mill to invest. “It is very important for us to control the quality in yarn clearing in combination with the quality results from blowroom, carding and roving,” says Nguyen. With Quality Expert, a combination of 100% in-line monitoring, precise laboratory testing and integrated intelligence delivers the power to predict poten-tial faults and prevent claims.

solve most issues faster on the shopfloor. Our mill management has better control and this results in fewer problems needing to be escalated to me,” he says.

The Quality Management Platform was developed for decision-makers – but the biggest fans are ac-tually the operators and managers working with the system on a daily basis. “Personally, I have a bet-ter view of the quality produced in our mills, while spending less time to get the information I need. I would not want to go back to the era before Quality Expert at any price,” says Nguyen.

Uster Quality Expert comes in two distinct versions – both with no compromises in ultimate analysis. It’s integrated within Uster Tester 6 and also available as a standalone solution.

ITMA 2023 Space Application Response Exceeded Expectations

I Data-based preventive measures are a tremendous asset in yarn production, but Uster observes that customers also greatly appreciate the single Value Modules of Quality Expert. Each of these five mo-dules is based on Application Intelligence, offering advantages in specific fields.

The Alarm Center creates awareness and triggers action – with problem-solving suggestions – in case of issues.

Mill Analysis offers insightful analytics for data-based decisions, and Yarn Prognosis raises the spinner’s reputation to a new level with customers. The ‘star’ elements among the Value Modules are Total Contamination Control and Ring Spinning Optimization. TCC balances ejections in the blowroom with clearer cuts in winding in the most advanced way. RSO brings improved spinning per-formance with quality transparency from top to bottom of the cop.

Feelgood: efficiency and control Nguyen has a secret favorite among Uster Quality Expert benefits: “The Uster Mobile Alert App is a great tool to access information while on the road, or away from the spinning mill. The personnel and I can be notified, and so 69 TVC | MARCH 2022

TMA 2023, the 19th showcase of the world’s largest textile and garment technology exhibition is on track to occupy 12 halls of the Fiera Milano Rho exhibition complex.

The exhibition has drawn enthusiastic response from leading textile and garment technology manufacturers, according to CEMATEX (European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers), the show owner of ITMA. More than 93 per cent of the exhibition space has been sold by the application deadline of 15 March 2022. A total of 1,364 applicants from 42 countries have booked over 111,000 square metres of net exhibition space.

Mr Ernesto Maurer, President of CEMATEX, said: “The response to ITMA 2023 has exceeded our expectations despite the economic and geopolitical uncertainties confronting the global business community. We appreciate the strong endorsement from the industry. The space booking status shows the industry’s confidence in ITMA as the best global launch pad of the latest technologies and innovations.”

Mr Charles Beauduin, Chairman of ITMA Services, the organiser of ITMA 2023, added: “After weathering over two years of the pandemic, the global business community is eager to get down to real business. Businesses are looking at long-term investments in key technologies to remain competitive. As the world’s most established showcase of its kind, ITMA is the quintessential platform for the industry to buy and sell, and to collaborate face-to-face.”

Corporate News

Basant Fibertek Doubles Capacity TVC Editorial Team

B

asant Fibertek, market leaders in Pins and Pinned Rollers and Lags for fibre preparation in textile spinning and recycling, are doubling their production capacity in both their plants in order to meet the fast-rising demand for their products. The enhanced capacity went on stream in November 2021.

The 57-year-old company has an impressive history of being the pioneer in bringing into India the la-test technology to manufacture world class critical textile machinery components with the aim of im-port substitution and innovating high value solutions. Its Porcupine Brand is synonymous with world class pins and textile machinery components.

Mr. Kishore Khaitan, Managing Director of the company says “ Our commitment for not compromising on quality and on ethics has resulted in developing trust and confidence in our customers and this has resulted in strong relationships spanning a decade or more with our major clients. Due to our fast-expanding global reach, exports have become more than 50% of turnover. We export to all 5 conti-nents and to over 40 countries.

Short delivery times, a hassle-free user experience, customised solutions and economical prices provi-de the clients the best value for money. This commitment has enabled us be miles ahead of competi-tion, whether domestic or foreign. In view of the rising demand of our products as a preferred supp-lier, the capacity expansion was planned to ensure it lives up to its record in meeting these objectives in future.

Over the past few years, the company has focused more on offering solutions to its clients. The com-pany has helped many clients improve yarn quality, reduce process waste, increase production and productivity as also reduce maintenance costs through their customised solutions that are designed based on plant audits. Bas70 TVC | MARCH 2022

ant is well known in industry for its world class, innovative products and gentle fibre handling solutions and is serving OEMs as well as leading mills in India and abroad. Its range covers solutions for short staple cotton and synthetic spinning, worsted spinning, sisal/ linen spinning, rotor spinning as well as other applications in textile and non-textile sectors.

Mr. Khaitan adds “We consciously shifted from being a products supplier to a solutions provider, based on the needs of the market. Our expertise and experience in offering solutions based on the ‘Gentle Fiber Opening Principle’ is highly valued by our customers, helping them become more competitive in their own markets.”

In 2016, the company commissioned its new plant for manufacturing Opening Rollers and Rotors for Open-End Spinning, thus becoming the only manufacturer producing these in India. Basant offers lo-wer prices than European and OEM offerings while achieving comparable performance. Its products for rotor spinning also beat Chinese ones in terms of cost effectiveness and reliability of performance. The company offers full range of rotors and opening rollers for all leading makes of rotor spinning ma-chines. The company is doubling its capacity for spinbox spares also in order to catch up with demand and to ensure fast supply.

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Corporate News

SPGPrints/Stovec launches “DART” to start-ups in digital textile printing TVC Editorial Team

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he textile industry has taken a big leap with the latest innovations in the digital printing. Digital textile printing has enabled companies to keep up with the ever-changing requirements of the textile market. It has a positive benefit on the sustainability of the textile production process, as well as the typical benefits of fast design introduction, shorter print runs and new design possibilities. Many textile entrepreneurs in India too have started investing in digital printing technology, as it is now being considered the most budding method of printing.

Now, Stovec (subsidiary of SPGPrints Group) brings to you the optimal future-proof digital textile printer ‘SPGPrints DART’. Stovec takes great pride in introducing our customers to our robust entry level digital printer -- ‘DART’, a perfect solution for startups to fulfil their need for a medium speed printer.

With fast turnarounds and full application support DART is the optimal solution for your entry into digital printing.

DART provides industrial performance and more sustainable, high quality digital printing at a profitMr Shailesh Wani, Managing Director, Stovec Indus- able cost level. It offers immense creative opportutries Limited clarifies some important points. nities for printed designs as it can print on even the most difficult fabrics and help the brand owners or customers to meet the ever-changing demands of fashion industry.

It offers unsurpassed quality and value to textile printers who are taking the first step into digital printing. Apart from ease, accuracy and productivity, it offers flexibility with different inks and drying methods.

Stovec is a total solutions provider, offering productive hardware, best in class software and compatiIs your company also ready to make a strategic tran- ble inks in different chemistries in the field of textile sition to digital textile printing? printing, for both Rotary & Digital textile printing.

72 TVC | MARCH 2022

Corporate News

Full Automation from Roll to Finished Product

A

TVC Editorial Team

utomatex, a member of TMAS, the Swedish textile machinery association, has recently supplied a number of its latest Industry 4.0-enabled automatic fitted sheet systems to customers in Europe.

ming and elastics insertion section with adjustable tension devices, before being measured and cross cut in an accumulator. It is then transferred to the cross-hemming section, again with elastics insertion.

“Everybody is looking to automate right now, and not in the huge factories of the past, but with more compact and precisely targeted operations,” said Chuck de Sousa, the company’s head of business development. “It’s happening in Europe and beginning to snowball for us in the USA too. Our system provides companies with highly streamlined, just-in-time and sustainable production close to their customers.”

A side drop forming unit pre-forms the sheet before it is transported by a multi-axis clamp conveyor system to the corner sewing section, consisting of left and right overlock sewing heads. Here, the corners are robotically sewn at 90 degrees and labels are also attached when specified.

Further customised systems for folding are also supplied as required.

The Automatex model FDC-77735B90D-EC automatic fitted sheet system.

The Automatex model FDC-77735-B90D-EC system enables the full production and folding of six fully-fitted sheets per minute – approaching 3,000 an average shift – overseen by a single operator and eliminating many of the repetitive cut and sew operations of the past.

The Automatex model FDC-77735-B90D-EC system enables the full production and folding of six fully-fitted sheets per minute – approaching 3,000 an average shift – overseen by a single operator and eliminating many of the repetitive cut and sew operations of the past.

Elastics insertion – usually a highly complex labour-intensive task – can be on all four sides of the sheet, two, or simply within the corners, depending on customer specifications.

Fabric is fed directly from the roll, with precise edge guiding and tension control, into a length-wise hem73 TVC | MARCH 2022

“The system is very simple to programme and operate, with remote access for troubleshooting capability,” de Sousa said. “It can be fully customised to the individual needs of the specific customer.”

“The automation enabled by the latest Industry 4.0 developments is currently top of the agenda for TMAS member companies,” added TMAS Secretary General Therese Premler-Andersson. “Automatex is among companies leading the field in new technologies which enable significant resource savings to be achieved, while making production in high-cost countries once more profitable. Cost effective production closer to

the customer also leads to more sustainable production while enabling companies to change their cost structures but also increase their capacities and flexibility while creating a cleaner working environment and fewer heavy lifts. Ultimately this is good for the plant, the production, the people and the planet.”

The ‘SPGPrints DART’ enables you to print on demand at a top quality of 720 x 1080 dpi, using 8 colours. The print engine works with Konica Minolta print heads for extended service life, while the unique SPGPrints technology ensures consistent print quality, regardless varying climatic conditions.

The variable drop size enables you to produce sharp images, vibrant colours and smooth gradations. The printer is very easy to operate with plug and play installation and the latest colour management engines and colour processing tools are included in the preloaded RIP software.

SHOW CALENDAR APRIL 2022 06-08

Tokyo, JAPAN https://www.fashion-tokyo.jp/spring/ 07-09

Print your own fabrics and learn how to reap the revolutionary benefits of digital textile printing. The innovation hub gives textile printers the ability to try new designs and fabrics under test conditions and get expert guidance. The opening of the Experience Centre marks our commitment towards both brand owners and customers in providing the first-hand, real-time insight into this technology’s tremendous potential. Our focus is to enable textile printers to use digital printing technology to achieve higher standards of quality on the wide range of fabrics, and giving customers the flexibility to bring designs faster to the market.

For printing companies who are ready to embark on a digital textile printing journey, a visit to our Experience Center will be worthwhile.

Come see for yourself the astonishing output DART can help you deliver.

74 TVC | MARCH 2022

Fibers and Yarns Mumbai, India http://www.fibersnyarns.com/

08-11

Udyog 2022 Surat, India https://udyog.sgcci.in

11-13

CMAI FAB Show Mumbai, India

Visit our Experience Centre to witness the true power of digital printing Stovec has strengthened its commitment to the adoption, development and support to textile printing technology, with the setting up of the ‘Experience Center’ – a demonstration and training facility located at company’s premises in Ahmedabad, India.

FASHION WORLD TOKYO

https://cmai.in 14 -16

Inter textile Shanghai Home Textiles – Spring Edition Shanghai, China https://intertextile-shanghai-hometextiles-spring.hk.messefrankfurt.com/shanghai/en.html

14- 16

Yarn Expo Shanghai, China https://yarn-expo-spring.hk.messefrankfurt.com/shanghai/en.html#navigation

19 -21

Global Yarn & Fabric Sourcing Show 2022 Virtual exhibition https://globalsourcingshow.com/

26-28

PromoTex Expo 2022 Dusseldorf, Germany https://www.psi-messe.com

27-30

CISMA 2022 Shanghai, China https://www.cisma.com.cn/

Air Covered Yarns in Nylon-6, Nylon-66 and Polyester 20 Denier to 300 Denier in S & Z twists for High end Seamless Knitting and Medical Bandages

Single And Double Covered Yarns in Nylon-6, Nylon-66 and Polyester Single Covered Yarns 20 Denier to 250 Denier

Double Covered Yarns

350 Denier to 1400 Denier

Corporate Office : SF-34, Vasant Square, Vasant Kunj, New Delhi – 110070, India 75 TVC | MARCH 2022 96506 54343 Email : mani@bishnutexport.com Mobile : +91 98100 09264,

industry update

Textile export volume still down in January TVC Editorial Team

I

n January 2022, overall merchandised exports were at US$34.50 billion, as against US$27.54 billion in January 2022, up 27% year on year but 9% month on month. In INR terms, exports were at INR2,551 billion in January, as against INR1,992 billion a year ago.

the US$.

Spun yarns shipment totaled 142 million kg worth US$602 million or INR4,453 crore. The unit value realization of all types of spun yarn averaged US$4.25 per kg, about US$1.28 up year on year.

Bangladesh was the largest market for spun yarns Among textiles, exports of cotton yarn/ fabrics/ during the month, followed by Turkey and Egypt. made-ups, handloom Products etc. were up 42%, Cotton yarn export was at 108 million kg worth man-made yarn/ fabrics /made-ups etc. were up US$492 million (INR3,633 crore). While volume 24% and RMG of all textiles were up 19%. They to- shipment was up 3% year on year, revenue earngether were valued at US$3,437 million account- ing jumped 49% is US$ term. These were shipped ing for 10% of total merchandised export during the month.

In January 2022, basic textiles comprising fibres, spun and filament yarns shipment were worth US$1,170 million or INR8,650 crore, accounting for about 3.4% of total merchandise exported from India during the month. Compared to a year ago,

to 68 countries at an average price of US$4.48 a kg, up US cents 13 from previous month and up US$1.38 from January 2021. Bangladesh was the top importer of cotton yarn, followed by Turkey, Egypt, Portugal and China.

100% man-made fibre yarns exports were at 11.41 million kg, comprising over 5.47 million kg of polyester yarn, 3.36 million kg of viscose yarn and 2.24 million kg of acrylic yarn. Viscose yarn worth they were up 25% both in INR and US$ terms. In US$13 million or INR95 crore were exported at an same comparison, the INR was 2% down against average price of US$3.81 per kg in January. The 76 TVC | MARCH 2022

During the month, Bangladesh was the largest importer of Indian cotton, followed by Vietnam, China, Indonesia and UAE. Total export in first four months of 2021-22 marketing season was at 31.85 lakh bales worth US$10,156 crore or US$1,371 million. Compared with the corresponding months of Blended spun yarns worth US$74 million were ex- 2020-21, exports were down 25% in volume and ported in January, including 10.80 million kg of PC 8% up in US$ term. yarns and 6.83 million kg of PV yarns. Bangladesh Export price realisation for cotton averaged INR200 was the top importers of PC yarn from India fol- a kg or US cents 123 per pound in January. This lowed by Guatemala while Turkey was the single was be-low Cotlook A index, the global spot price largest importer of PV yarns from India followed benchmark and higher compared with the domestic spot price for benchmark Gujarat Shankar-6. distantly by Vietnam.

All kinds of filament yarns shipment totaled 69 mil- During the month, Cotlook averaged US$132 per lion kg, valued at US$130 million or INR962 crore. pound while Shankar-6 was at US cents 127 per pound.

Cotton shipment in January, the fourth month of the 2021-22 marketing season, was at 8.06 lakh Courtesy: Textile Beacon Fibre to Yarn Export Stabales worth INR2,737 crore or US$370 million. tistics: India major market was Turkey, followed Bangladesh, USA, Morocco and Spain. Polyester spun yarns export was worth US$15 million ex-ported at average unit price of US$2.69 a kg. Morocco was the largest importer of polyester yarn, followed by Turkey and USA.

Textile fibre dearer in February due to cost push TVC Editorial Team

Polyester

1.23 a kg.

Polyester staple fibre offers were raised in China during February 2022, particularly sharply by end of month as surging crude oil and raw materials significantly boosted sale/production status. In Jiangsu and Zhejiang, offers were largely on an uptrend, underpinned by elevated costs and rising futures.

Nominations from PSF sellers were also lifted in firm deals under negotiations. In Fujian, offers were increased, with both 1.2D and 1.4D materials dearer and firm deals were talked higher. Offers for 1.4D direct-melt polyester staple were raised in Jiangsu and Zhejiang to 7.47-7.75 Yuan a kg (US$1.18-1.22 a kg, up US cents 2-4 from January) while the same in Fujian and Shandong were up US cents 3-5 at US$1.19-

In Taiwan, polyester fibre values were higher on rising cost led by surge in energy complex. Offer for 1.4D were lifted US cents 4 to US$1.19 a kg FOB.

77 TVC | MARCH 2022

In India, producers lifted their offers twice in February with a sharp rise on second week for both 1.2D and 1.4D fibre following the hike in global prices. Offers were raised to at INR120.75 a kg (US$1.58 a kg) for 1.2D and to INR120 a kg (US$1.57 a kg) for 1.4D. In Pakistan, producers’ offers moved higher in Karachi market although cotton prices were by month end week on weakening demand. 1.4D PSF offers were raised to PakRs.268-270 a kg (US$1.52-1.53 a kg).

Acrylic

Acrylic staple fibre prices moved flat to down across Asian markets during February, although there were some upward movement in cost of acrylonitrile. Offers for Taiwan origin 1.5D acrylic fibre were down month on month at US$2.70-2.75 a kg FOB, US cents 10 down from January.

ing ample orders, fiber prices are expected to rise further as there was room for adjustment in a short run.

Viscose Viscose staple fibre producers in China raised offers successively during February with a sharper lift in the last week of the month, impacted by hikes in feedstock and auxiliary materials cost. Some producers intended to restrain offtake volumes as the markets remained weak due to lack of demand from downward processors. Following the price hike, producers anticipate that downstream buying interest will be boosted then. Spot prices for 1.5D were lifted to average 13.06 Yuan a kg (US$2.06 a kg, up US cents 6) while 1.2D were up at 13.12 Yuan a kg (US$2.07 a kg, up US cents 8).

In China, reference prices were rolled through the month over amid quiet market sentiment and balanced supply and demand fundamentals. They were last raised in the second week of January. Acrylic fibre producers did not feel the pressure of any goods as downstream spun yarn mills released limited fresh orders. They were mainly focused on digesting earlier inventories. Overall demand was limited, while the volume of orders signed in earlier days were sufficient to ramp up operating rate. Prices for medium-length and cotton-type acrylic fibre 1.5D and Lyocell fibre market was quiet while industrial run 3D tow were rolled over at 18.20-18.50 Yuan a kg rate was at a low level of around 20%, since produc(US$2.86-2.91 a kg). tion recovery was slower than expected. Producers In Pakistan, overseas supplier kept their offers steady generally stuck to their indications, and actual transamid weak demand and poor outlook. Offers were actions were moderate. G100 offers were stable at stable at PakRs.510-515 a kg (US$2.91-2.94 a kg) in 15.50-16.00 Yuan a kg (US$2.45-2.53 a kg).

Karachi market.

In Taiwan, offers for 1.5D were raised US cents 5 in In India, producers had fixed their offers for Febru- the second week to US$2.20 a kg FOB. ary on low cost and demand. Offers for February at In Pakistan, offers in Karachi remained frozen during INR207-209 a kg (US$2.76-2.79 a kg). the month at PakRs390-400 a kg (US$2.18-2.23 a kg).

As feedstock cost edged up, and fibre producers hav78 TVC | MARCH 2022

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