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Textiles to drive National Economy The textile industry remained grounded for a long time due to various reasons. The report of the Expert Committee appointed by the Ministry of Textiles under the Chairmanship of Shri Ajay Shankar, Member-Secretary, National Manufacturing Competitive Council visualizes a dominant role for the textile and apparel industry in the Indian economy. It is a momentous development which has electrified the textile and apparel industry, which is non awaiting the new Textiles Policy to be announced by the Ministry of Textiles. It is really gratifying that the Expert Committee has realised the tremendous potential of the textile and apparel industry. Technological innovation may replace conventional fabrics by smart fabrics, but clothing will continue to be the primary need of the human beings for all times to come. What a fantastic impact the new policy will make on the Indian economy! Shri Manikam Ramaswami an astute, discerning and visionary millowner has recently observed that export of textiles and clothing worth US $ 1 billion will create additional one lakh jobs, and the net additional Foreign exchange earned (after adjusting for imports) will be nearly US $ 1 billion. The vision report estimates exports of textiles and clothing at US $ 300 billion and domestic sales at US $ 350 billion. Thus, the report envisages that the industry whose present size is US $ 120 billion will transform itself into a gigantic industry of the size of US $ 650 billion by 2024-25. The preliminary estimate of total exports in 2013-14 has been US $ 319 billion. The additional foreign exchange earnings of US $ 260 billion [Export of US $ 300 billion less present exports of US $ 40 billion] by 2024-25 would be a substantial addition to Foreign exchange kitty. This will dispel anxiety of keeping Current Account deficit at a sustainable level. If the goals are achieved there will be addition of 5.30 crore new employees to the present labour strength of 52 crore. The economic growth which has slowed down due to domestic structural and external factors will revive with renewed vigour and enhanced confidence. More than five crore persons with enhanced purchasing power would have a tonic effect on all industries across the board. The textile and apparel industry will once again be at the pinnacle of Indian economy. Mr. Ajay Shankar deserves all kudos for articulating a vision that will impact every household in the country. The road ahead is long and full of hurdles. It is not going to be a smooth journey. A systematic analysis of what the textile and apparel industry wants must be the immediate exercise.




   

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OCTOBER - DECEMBER 2014 ISSUE

In this Issue...

EDITORIAL TEAM Editor & Publisher

Ms. Jigna Shah Advertising & Sales

Md. Tanweer Editorial Advisor

Shri V.Y. Tamhane Graphic Designer

Mr. Anant A. Jogale

INDUSTRY Mr. Devchand Chheda City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group)

9- Government News 10- Corporate News COVER STORY : INDIA'S VISION FOR TEXTILE INDUSTRY 11- The undiscovered of the industry by Shri V.Y. Tamhane 12- Vision, Strategy & Action Plan for industry by Mr. Avinash Mayekar 14- Roadmap for Indian Textile industry by Prof. M.D. Teli 20- National Employment Policy by Shri V.Y. Tamhane

Mr. Manohar Samuel Joint President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries

Mr. Aditya Biyani Marketing Director, Damodar Group

Dr. M. K. Talukdar VP, Kusumgar Corporates

Mr. Shailendra Pandey

TECHNICAL ARTICLES 26- Recycling of plastic bottles into yarn & fabric 35- Knitted Fabric Softness- Ways to Improve 38- Natural Dyes – Overviews

VP (Head – Sales and Marketing),Indian Rayon

Mr. Ajay Sharma GM- RSWM ( LNJ Bhilwara Group)

EDUCATION / RESEARCH Mr. B.V. Doctor HOD knitting, SASMIRA ,

Dr. Ela Dedhia Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College

Dr. Mangesh D. Teli Professor, Dean ICT

Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay Principal Scientist & Head MPD, CIRCOT

Dr. Rajan Nachane Retired Scientist, CIRCOT

CONSULTANT / ASSOCIATION Mr. Avinash Mayekar MD, Suvin Advisor Pvt. Ltd.

Mr. Shivram Krishnan Senior Textile Advisor

TRADESHOW REPORT 37- Outlook- EDANA 44- Shilp Kathaon 2014 45- BCH Technical Symposium 48- Yarnex/ Texindia 2014 49- Global Geosynthetic Summit by CII 52- ITMACH – Pre Show 52- Cotton USA Seminar 71- Upcoming Tradeshow Details AGM MEET SPEECH 56- TEXPROCIL 57- WOOL INDUSTRY EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL 58- SRTEPC 61- FAITMA 62- AEPC 64- CITI

Mr. G. Benerjee Management & Industrial Consultant

Mr. Uttam Jain Director PDEXCIL; VP of Hindustan Chamber of Commerce

Mr. Jaykrishna Pathak President,Bombay Yarn Merchant Association & Exchange Ltd.

Mr. Shiv Kanodia Sec General, Bharat Merchant Chamber

Mr. N.D. Mhatre Dy. Director, ITAMMA

REPORTS 66- FABRIC QUALITY 68- YNFX MONTHLY PRICE REPORT 74- Fashion Forecast


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HANDLOOM JOIN HANDS WITH FLIPKART INDIA PVT. LTD. Ministry of Tex les today announced that Ministry through DC (Handlooms) has signed a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) with Flipkart India Pvt. Ltd. to provide online marke ng pla orm to handloom weavers to boost the handloom sector, empower the weavers and boost manufacturing in the country. Through this exclusive agreement, Flipkart will provide weavers in India online marke ng pla orm, infrastructural support in data analy cs and customer acquisi on to help them get remunera ve prices for their products and scale up their business. Ministry of Tex les, Government of India, through the office of the Development Commissioner for Handlooms, is con nuously striving to develop a strong, compe ve and vibrant handloom sector to provide sustainable employment to handloom weavers. The Ministry had adopted focused, flexible and holis c approach to promote and facilitate the con nuous overall growth and development of the handloom industry through formula ng, implemen ng, monitoring and reviewing of handloom policies, programmes and schemes; to support the handloom sector at large in upgrading skill knowledge, market infrastructure, living condi on etc. For marke ng support, the Ministry of Tex les has taken many ini aves from me to me such as organiza ons of domes c marke ng events, par cipa on in interna onal fairs and

buyer-seller meets etc. However, in the present scenario of online marke ng and net savvy consumers, it has been felt need to provide online marketing pla orm to handloom weavers so that exquisite handloom products of remote village is made available to discerning buyers. This kind of a coordinated effort has been planned and executed for the first me with Flipkart for handloom weavers which will bridge the missing linkages of market intelligence, market access and logis cs and help the Indian weavers in ge ng remunera ve prices for their products.” Flipkart will provide online marketplace for sale of the products of the weavers / master cra smen/ na onal awardees/ state level awardees and the others as advised by Development Commissioner for Handlooms. Towards this end, they will go to the doorsteps of the above said since they do not have the brand, financial wherewithal to have a store leave aside in a town but not even in their village, no wherewithal to travel to market their products. Flipkart or their business partners will also have a collec on centers to collect their products. The weavers will sell their products under their brand name and evolve as an entrepreneur selling his products directly to buyers across the country without stepping out of their workplace. Flipkart, with its access to the largest customer base in the country, aims to help weavers make op mal use of

GOVT NEWS the available data to guide entrepreneurs and ar sans on areas such as deciding on the right selling price, payment automa on, proper packaging, transporta on, brand building etc. The DATA analy cs and market intelligence provided by Flipkart will help the weavers focus only on producing be er saleable product ranges. This in turn will help them plan their producon and inventory and expand their business, thus revolu onizing manufacturing in rural India and encourage entrepreneurship. This partnership will connect the ar sans directly to the buyer and the hand holding by Flipkart in guiding, packaging, collec ng and delivering to the buyer will mo vate the ar sans in rural India. North East has skilled weavers with rich tradi onal mo fs and designs, but due to the lack of market linkages they are not able to exploit the market poten al. Similarly, Paithani and Himroo weaves from Maharashtra have tremendous value but are a dying art. Flipkart`s ABHIYAAN Flipkart – Kaarigar ke dwar to connect the weavers to the buyers across the country will also help arrest this dying art and change the face of rural India. This ini a ve will help rural weavers earn suitable remunera on for their products without having to step out of their homes. Thus the children of these weavers will be mo vated to learn and con nue the art and stay back in the rural areas instead of migra ng to the urban areas for jobs, thereby keeping alive the rich tradi on of Indian art.

T›ø㮽›Ý M®Ä®Ýã›Ù HÊÄÊçÙÝ 54 WÊÃ›Ä A‘«®›ò›ÙÝ ®Ä S›Ù®‘ç½ãçٛ The Minister of State (Independent Charge) for Tex les Shri Santosh Kumar Gangwar honoured 54 women from 27 Indian states who have achieved significant success in produc on, produc vity and adop on of best pracces in the field of Sericulture across the country in a Na onal Workshop on “Empowering Women Through Sericulture”. During the inaugural session, five achievers shared their experience. Inaugura ng the Workshop, Shri Gangwar hear ly noted that sericulture has been providing gainful livelihood opportuni es to rural women. Addressing the women achievers, the Minister added that “through sericulture, you have been able to provide good educa on to your children and spend the money earned out of it fruitfully for the be erment of your fami-

lies. This is indeed encouraging. You are role models for other farmers. I would appeal to you to promote sericulture for enhanced silk produc on in the country.” Shri Gangwar said Wthat “it is the right me for us to focus on high quality silk and become truly world class.” He said that the Ministry would like to take the development process through par cipa ve approaches leading to inclusive growth. He also expressed happiness about the innova ve prac ces adopted by the women in sericulture and hoped that this workshop will help in augmen ng produc on of quality silk in the country substan ally. Making a presenta on on the matter, Dr. Sanjay Kumar Panda, Secretary, Ministry of Tex les, stressed that 9

that sericulture is an effec ve tool for poverty eradica on in rural areas and empowerment of women. He further stated that the challenges ahead lies in producing quality bivol ne silk for mee ng the need of the silk weaving industry. He further highlighted that quality silk worm food plants, robust silk worm races, produc on of quality silk worm seed and effec ve marke ng should be the focus areas. Dr. Panda stated that the key to success is good team work with synergy with the schemes of other departments like Mahatma Gandhi Na onal Rural Employment Guarantee Scheme (MGNREGS), Rashtriya Krishi Vikas Yojana (RKVY) and Na onal Aforesta on Programme (NAP), appropriate technology and effec ve management. TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | OCT - DEC 2014 www.textilevaluechain.com


CORPORATE NEWS

A.T.E. Ù®Ä¦Ý 㫛 ›Ý㠑ÊÃփ‘ã ÝÖ®ÄĮĦ ٛãÙÊ¥®ããÊ Iė®ƒ

From L to R: Laxmikant Rathi ( A.T.E.), Xu Shiping, Su Xiaoguang (Dechang), Anuj Bhagwa (A.T.E.), Zheng Jianping, Xu Jun (De-chang)and P K Govil (TeraSpin)

Compact yarn is one of the growing high-value yarn segments that spinners are increasingly vying for, so as to succeed in a compe ve yarn market. Realising the huge poten al for compact yarn, A.T.E. has ed-up with Ningbo Dechang Precision Tex le Machinery Co. Ltd., China, to bring a range of high quality retrofit compact spinning systems to Indian spinners.

Reading fabric appearance: the yarn tells the story Tes ng with USTER® TESTER 5 and USTER® CLASSIMAT 5 shows how a fabric will look and feel… Total customer sa sfac on is every spinner’s goal and reputa ons depend on it. Every cri cal yarn parameter must to be tested to ensure that the resultant fabric meets expecta ons, whatever level of the market is being supplied. All the evidence confirms it, from the world’s most successful yarn producers, and from detailed prac cal analysis. There are two main types of yarn user: those commi ed to weaving or kni ng high-quality fabrics, and those which serve ‘commodity’ applica ons. Both groups have their own specific requirements – and it’s essen al that spinners understand these needs and how to meet them. What is clear, though, is that yarn tes ng is fundamental to customer sa sfac on, in every case. Major customers, demanding requirements The PALLAVAA Group is a successful spinning company in India, specializing in Viscose, MicroModal, Modal, Polyester, Bamboo, Supima and its blends, and pure co on. They are supplying big brands like NEXT, Marks &

TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | OCT - DEC 2014 www.textilevaluechain.com

Dechang, one of the leading compact conversion manufacturers, is known for its high quality equipment which is based on suc on and perforated nylon apron concept. Dechang has a patent for its complete compact modifica on kit. Dechang can supply and install its en re compact systems on almost all makes of ring frames. They have a reference base of 2 million spindles in China and more than half a million in other markets. Expressing his enthusiasm for this e-up, Mr Laxmikant Rathi, Vice President – Spinning Accessories & Exports, A.T.E. Enterprises, said, “We were looking for a reliable and technologically advanced compact retrofit system that can produce high quality compact yarn, which we have found in the Dechang compact system. This partnership will bring the best technology to the Indian compact yarn market”.

Spencer, H & M, Victoria’s Secret etc. PALLAVAA is not alone in its desire to work with major retailers. In fact, long-standing customer rela onships, based on high standards, call for a whole range of yarn quality parameters to be controlled: evenness, imperfec ons (neps, thin and thick places), hairiness, remaining defects and foreign fibers. Measurements from the USTER® TESTER 5 provide reports and analysis on evenness, imperfec ons and hairiness, while remaining defects and foreign fibers are covered by the USTER® CLASSIMAT 5. Quality-conscious spinners have trusted in these two instruments for decades for reliable and accurate data. These laboratory tes ng instruments’ data can tell the yarn quality story – and even predict how the final fabric will look. tes ng at the Uster Technologies laboratory in Switzerland has shown that yarns with comparable CVm values can produce fabrics with obvious differences in appearance. In the tests, Ne24 co on yarns from 10 different suppliers had insignificant differences in their CVm values, which could lead wrongly to the conclusion that the fabrics would look the same. Further test data from the USTER® TESTER 5 showed results for neps which were close in 8 of the 10 cases, in which the yarns had a nep value below the 25 USTER® STATISTICS Percen le (USPTM). But one of 10

Mr Xu Shiping, Vice General Manager, Ningbo Dechang, expressed that, “Having A.T.E. as a partner gives us an opportunity to reach the en re tex le sector, as A.T.E. is a complete solu on provider for all the tex le machinery needs of the Indian tex leindustry, and hence known to allcustomers. This e-up will help us topromote our high quality, cost effec vesolu ons in compact systems to theIndian market.” As per the arrangements, A.T.E. will maintain a stock of cri cal and important components like la ce aprons, sucon tubes and gear box assemblies for the compact yarn system. The Indian spinners can thus look forward to fast and excellent sales and service support from A.T.E. for the Dechang compactspinning system.

the yarns had a much higher nep value, even exceeding 50 % of the USTER® STATISTICS value. “We know from experience that fabric kni ed from yarn with a nep level over 50 % will show li le pilling on the surface,” says Peters. The yarns were also tested for hairiness – and here the test results varied even more widely. Values ranged from below 25 % USPTM to above 95 %. “Fabric made from yarns with such different hairiness values will never ever look the same, and as these test results demonstrate, spinners tes ng only yarn evenness are making a potenally serious error. They would clearly be wrong to place any confidence in producing yarns to meet customer needs under these circumstances.” Common prac ce or best prac ce? Some yarn users have developed a policy of taking sample packages from a yarn lot and ‘tes ng’ them by running the yarn through their weaving or kni ng machines. “The effort of kni ng or weaving a fabric can be reduced to the minimum or eliminated if you have a yarn test report containing reliable informa on rela ng to fabric appearance,” says Peters. “The USTER®


THE UNDISCOVERED , OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY

COVER STORY

shu leless looms is too inadequate for mee ng the demand of garment sector for the manufacture of garments for export purposes as well as domes c demand.

Shri V.Y.Tamhane

HƒÖÖù DƒùÝ A«›ƒ— To say that, the Vision, Strategy and Ac on Plan for Indian Tex le and Apparel Sector dra ed by the Expert Commi ee under the Chairmanship of Shri Ajay Shankar, Member-Secretary Na onal Manufacturing Compe veness Council has brought cheer to the industry is a gross understatement. The Vision statement has radically transformed the mood of the en re industry and inspired confidence in it. It has started feeling that it is on cloud nine, and it is now looking forward to climbing the commanding heights of the interna onal trade in tex les and clothing. The statement is music to ears and assurance of happy days ahead. The export target of US$ 300 billion and projected domes c demand of US $ 350 by 2024-25 making a total of US $ 650 billion from the present level of US $ 120 billion is certainly highly ambi ous, very lo y and seemingly difficult. But one may recall that in the medieval period the industry trumped all compe tors in the interna onal market. Its export performance in early nineteen fi ies was mind-blowing. All that is required is the posi ve approach. To make the policy a ground success, Government is bound to pull out all the stops and open all windows and doors. Exports largely depend upon, monsoon, China factor, par value of rupee, fibre-neutral taxa on policy and import-walls raised by impor ng countries. An important issue will be the development of domes c raw material base for achieving the gigan c export target and mee ng the domesc demand. We have to accept the fact that in comfort, style and fashion, it is difficult to beat Indian tex les and clothing. To meet the upmarket demand par cularly in the developed countries the industry must aspire to become the epitome of luxury. At the same me, industry should not overlook the demand pa ern of the society at large, the world over. What is now required is the se ng up of large produc on capaci es of man-made fibres, yarns and processed cloth and garments. The leading corporates will not chase awards, but market leadership through talented strategies, with relentless focus on the world requirement of tex les and clothing.

H›Ù› ƒÙ› ƒ ¥›ó ã«Ê禫ãÝ: It is fortuitous that, interna onally things are changing for the be er. The U.S. economy is normalising. Europe is restructuring and Japanese economy is becoming be er. If we put all that together, the world economy is looking up.

The powerloom sector is the weakest link and has no wherewithal for installa on of shu leless looms. Further, this sector finds it difficult to get term loans even under TUFS, because of their inability to furnish collateral security. The sector is in need of viability-gap funding. Hence, if Government takes steps to set up pools of imported shu leless looms of different mix of water-jet, air-jet, and rapier shuttleless looms at different powerloom centres in the country for giving such looms on lease to powerloom owners, with the lease rent being as low as possible, many powerloom owners will come forward. Thus, there will be adequate supply of grey cloth manufactured on shu leless looms. No duty, neither custom duty nor CVD nor SAD should be charged on such looms to keep its cost as low as possible so that the lease rent will not become a burden on the powerloom sector. A special scheme with liberal incen ves should also be devised for construc ng factory buildings for powerlooms, which today func oning in sub-standard condi ons.

PÙʑ›ÝݮĦ S›‘ãÊÙ Now comes the issue of upgrada on of processing technology. A processing unit of economic capacity with imported machinery costs Rs 100 crore. If good processing machines giving results comparable to interna onal standards are purchased from domes c sources and the balance machines, which are not available domes cally only are imported, then the investment may be about Rs 80-85 crore. Of the project cost of Rs 100 crore, machinery would cost Rs 40-50 crore and the balance Rs 50-60crore will be required for the purchase of land, buildings and to cover cost of installa on of machinery, equipment, u li es, and effluent treatment plant, etc including the incidence of customs duty, excise duty, sales tax aggrega ng to about 20-22%. At present, processing machinery is en tled to 5% interest reimbursement and 10% capital subsidy for specified processing machinery. Investments in items like land, factory buildings u li es, installa on charges etc and pre-opera ve expenses and margin money are not eligible for the benefit of reimbursement under the scheme, unlike for handloom and apparel sectors, with a cap of 50% of total new eligible investment. The subsidy is also not available on the tax por on of the price of machinery etc. Hence, capital subsidy for a processing project of Rs 100 crore would be only Rs 4 crore. In addi on, interest reimbursement at 5% is only available for seven years. This is not an a rac ve proposal for investment.

A ›ãã›Ù ÊÖã®ÊÄ óÊ罗 › –

PÊó›Ù½ÊÊÃÝ There are 24 lakh powerlooms in the powerloom sector and 52,000 looms in the mill sector. However, the number of shu leless looms in not more than 1.10 to 1.20 lakh. The worse part of it is that a large chunk of shu leless looms is second-hand. Shu leless looms are a pre-requisite to manufacture fabrics which are flawless and faultless and which have good dimensional stability. A small popula on of 1.10 to 1.20 lakh 11

1) To set up exclusive Tex le Processing Parks at Powerloom Clusters like Bhiwandi, Ichalkaranji, Surat, Malegoan, Burhanpur etc. 2) IR should be given on all excluded costs like, du es, and cost, building cost, u li es etc. 3) Government should set up co-genera on facili es to supply power and steam and provide for centralized ETP, as is done in China. While power should be supplied at cost, steam should be supplied free of charge. TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | OCT - DEC 2014 www.textilevaluechain.com


COVER STORY The proposed project will, on an average, process 70,000 metres of cloth per day i.e. 210 lakh metres in a year of 300 working days. Assuming that an average garment requites 2.5 metres of cloth, 84 lakh garments could be s tched from 210 lakh metres of cloth. At US$ 5 per garment (f.o.b) the foreign exchange earning would be US$ 40 million per annum. One processing unit can process cloth of 20 shu leless looms, producing 200 metres per day.

garment manufacturers would get adequate supplies of fabrics of interna onal standard at most economic prices and they would be in a posi on to increase exports in a significant manner. Addi onally, this route will not increase import content of export produc on and the industry will contribute significantly large amounts in foreign exchange for growth and development of na onal economy. If the produc on base of processed fabrics is enlarged, the remaining problem of the garmen ng sector would be the availability of skilled workers, the withdrawal prohibion imposed on engagement of women workers between 10 pm and 6 am (next day), the restricted number of hours for doing over me work, etc

The above calcula on is at 100% efficiency, with 100% produc on and 100% exports and no wastages have been assumed.While actual produc on would depend upon efficiency, intensity of use of machines, work stoppages, machine stoppages, overhauling, maintenance,etc, exports will depend on export orders, and f.o.b prices.

GƒÙÛÄã®Ä¦ S›‘ãÊÙ

It is a ma er of gra tude that Government is giving due emphasis on skill development programmes. The Garment industry with the support of Apparel Export Promoon Council has taken a lead for training. It is reported that about 1 lakh workers have already been trained. Skill development ac vity should be enlarged and supported by firing on all cylinders.

Once the number of shu leless loom for produc on of grey fabrics is increased to the required extent and processing facili es of interna onal standard are made available,

Let us look forward to a tex le industry, which will dominate the Indian economy by earning loads of foreign exchange and providing jobs to teeming millions.

There should be a sizeable number of clusters of imported shu leless looms at different powerloom des naons and adequate number of Tex le Processing Parks at such places.

VISION, STRATEGY & ACTION PLAN FOR INDIAN TEXTILE & APPAREL INDUSTRY Avinash Mayekar

these problems can be overcome. e.g. co on yield is s ll a big challenge across India and there is a huge scope for improvement by using latest cul va ng techniques.

MD & CEO, Suvin Advisors Pvt Ltd

Recently “Navaratri fes val” has added colours to the lives of all Indians. We are fortunate to born in the country of colours and colours reflect in our culture and in to our clothings. Every State in India has its specific cultural a re, matching style and colour combina ons. Our woman has got great affinity towards colour and has sense& choice for her colour. To help her, tex le industry is present in our country since ancient mes and contribu ng a lot to the fashion industry.

It is equally important to study prevailing industries in that par cular State& whether there is a balance in the supply chain management e.g. if only spinning industry is grown exponen ally in the par cular region but weaving & processing industry has not any presence in the region, then the producer will be directly selling the yarn in the neighboring state or foreign countries. But instead, if cluster is developed in such a way that ginning, spinning, weaving, processing & garmen ng sector are based in one cluster, then value chain can be easily balanced. This will help in reducing transporta on, logis cs, administra on and overhead costs dras cally giving more profit margins. Integrated Tex le Park Scheme envisages the vision to bring en re value chain at one place with all suppor ng infrastructure. Mini Tex le Park concept can definitely boost this scheme. The other important aspect is presence of ginning &spinning industries near co on growing regions. This would facilitate reduc on inlogis c costs as well as contamina on& wastage thereby giving superior quality products. Similarly, other fibres like silk, wool, jute etc. have their own importance and can be developed in the respec ve States for value addi on.

The Indian Tex le Industry is playing an important role in country’s economy by genera ng large employment base since decades. It is also a prime source for foreign exchange earnings for years. Hence, it is of paramount importance to chalk out our Country’s vision, strategy & ac on plan to carve out be er future. Somehow, the efforts in this regard have been of very low scale and have not come to the expecta ons of the globe ll date. At interna onal scenario, China is s ll a big brother and India has all its merits to take a bigger pie of the cake from China. However, the efforts are not in right direc ons far away from value addi ons and targets. We need to design our master plan in more appropriate way.

It is very important to use various tools such as SWOT analysis, PESTEL analysis, compe tor’s analysis, geographic analysis & demographic analysis for each & every State. We have to study the market gaps, growth drivers, products having interna onal markets etc. whether our strategy is in line with the global trends or not. e. g. China is the biggest player in the global tex le industry but because of increasing labour cost in China, industry players are eyeing on other Asian countries for produc on & this can be a good oppor-

The very first step to the ladder of success would be to study our resources in terms of raw materials, work culture, skill sets& infrastructure. We can map our country into the module of each and every State thoroughly for type, quality & quan ty of fibres produced & how the levels of producons can further be improvedin the region, what challenges are faced by the people while producing fibres & how TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | OCT - DEC 2014 www.textilevaluechain.com

12


CÊò › Ù SãÊÙù tunity for India. Study & Implementa on of similar business models of States like Maharashtra and Gujarat where Tex le Industry has shown tremendous growth will definitely add to success of Indian Tex le Industry.

can never achieve our vision. Some of the tex le sectors like Ginning, are s ll using very obsolete technologies.With the obsolete machineries, we cannot achieve desired standards of products as impuri es in co on can lead several problems like less absorbency, harsh hand-feel & less brightness etc. We have to update ourselves with the latest state-ofthe ar echnology. Government has launched TUFS scheme to support technology development which is an appreciable ini a ve. However, it needs efficient implementa on and promo on across the value chain. More such Government schemes are needed to bring about technology advancement.

Once we have all data pertaining to Tex le Industry of en re country based on various segments in tex le value chain, organized ordecentralized sectors, fibre-wise industries, scale of economy, technology level; we can arrive at the exis ng scenario of IndianTex le Industry. This will facilitate us in understanding our vision statement. Our vision should not only be in numbers indica ng market share or export values, but it should be derived based on various factors likeresource availability, growth drivers, level of infrastructure development, level of skill development & level of technology advancement and probable investment possibili es.

Government policies & ini a ves should be in tune with the vision e.g. if a par cular cluster has to be developed for Fabric processing industry, Government policies should create conducive environment for growth of the processing industry, such as CETP plants and water availability. Benefits like tax exemp on, tax holidays, capital & interest subsidies should be given to promote tex le sector. This will help to create posi ve environment amongst investors. Once the cluster is developed, the next step is to create marke ng network for businesses like arrangement of events & exhibi ons which will promote the products. This can create a pla orm to bring about awareness & marke ng of products & help in business development. The last but not the least is con nuous monitoring of ac on plan. No ac on plan is complete if it is not monitored at various stages. So it is necessary to decide milestones & me frames. These milestones have to be implemented within me frames to achieve the vision. A con nuous dialogue with all stake holders is needed to boost the sector. Similarly financial ins tu ons play very important role in sanc oning commercial values for the future projects. They need to be guided properly for appraisal systems and faster financing procedures.

Next step is to devise roadmap for our vision. This roadmap can be formed by iden fying investment opportuni es in the region, based on segment analysis. Once we iden fy industries to be developed, it is very necessary to chalk out the ac on plan for development. This plan will be integraon of all aspects like value chain, infrastructure development, skill development, technology levels, policy reforms& crea on of marke ng pla orms. e.g. if a par cular State has to be developed for produc on of export oriented garment industry, it is necessary to develop skill sets and suppor ng infrastructure like design studios, crea vity related ac vies, roads, ports, labour training schools& marke ng platforms to a ract global brands. Absence of any one of these aspects can lead to a failure. Hence, it is crucial to pursue holis c approach which will cover all parameters. Extensive and efficient road network, availability of good quality water, uninterrupted power supply& other u li es, well developed ports are important factors contribu ng to infrastructure development. Likewise, highlyskilled labours trained with interna onal skills and standards will help to achieve higher produc vi es & good opera onal management. It is necessary to check whether exis ng educa onal programs are capable to create such high skilled human resource. Educa onal seminars & training programs can also helpto create good resources. In fact,there are interna onal consul ng firms who are specialists and have experience in training to tex le experts and workers. Such kind of training programs can develop a good skilled workforce in our country.

Today, Indian economy is in transi on phase. Our Prime Minister Mr. Narendra Modi is taking good ini a ves to attract foreign investments from Japan, China, USA and other developed countries. Many other foreign na ons are eyeing on Indian economy for investments. Our Vision for tex le & apparel sector should bring the right environment for investors by crea ng good infrastructure, skill development, Government policies & marke ng pla orms. We can definitely lead the globein future by devising right and appropriate strategies to create our Vision and Ac on Plan. Tex le Consul ng firmshaving in depth knowledge of Indian and global tex le industrycan add value in the efforts of the Government ini a ves todevise appropriate ac on plan, strategy and vision statement for Indian tex le industry…

Technology advancement plays crucial role for growth of the any industry e.g. if our vision is to double our exports in next 5 years, but we do not have state-of-the art technology to produce interna onal standard goods, then we PIN UP IS BACK: THE KNITWEAR OF THE FUTURE Leading fashion brand BeneƩon invented it – a revolu onary line of sweaters that enhances a woman’s shape by accen ng her curves in all the right places. New for F/W 2014 is Muscle Fit, the version for guys.Accentuated curves and a super slim fit even wearing a classic cashmere sweater? Yes, thanks to United Colors of Bene on’s revolu onary patented technology plus more than forty

years’ know-how in weaving yarns and designing new genera on knitwear and its penchant for innova on. Considering the human body in 3D led to the idea for this knitwear line, which by carefully placing invisible seams in strategic places would have op mal wearability and fit that fla ered the shape of men’s and women’s bodies to perfec on. In recent years, Pin Up has already made women’s dreams of feeling both elegant and feminine come true, and F/W 2014 also sees the launch of the Muscle

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Fit line for men. Pin Up and Muscle Fit knits hug the body, nip in the waist and, especially for men, accent the shoulders and muscles. Science fic on? Not in the least. Dressing all women and making them feel as beau ful as Pin Ups, and from today, giving all men a trim silhoue e and an elegant carriage. This a challenge that Bene on always wins with its exper se in knitwear and use of the most modern technologies. A perfect marriage of beauty and comfort. TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | OCT - DEC 2014 www.textilevaluechain.com


COVER STORY

ROAD MAP FOR INDIAN TEXTILE AND APPAREL INDUSTRY

Prof. M.D.Teli, Sanket Valia & Pintu Pandit

1.

T›ø㮽› ƒÄ— AÖփٛ½ MƒÙ»›ã:

India has overtaken Germany and Italy to emerge as the world’s second largest tex le exporter.

IÄãÙʗç‘ã®ÊÄ Indian Tex le Industry is the mother industry of this country as over 35 million popula on is directly dependent on its growth. Hence its growth not only cons tutes the GDP growth but also it impacts the life of a large popula on of this country. The growth of this sector thus does not confine to economic reasons, but it is a social responsibility issue too, as it provides employment to a large number of popula on next to agricultural sector. Among the various strengths of this Tex le sector, one of them is availability of diverse variety of fibre raw materials. Co on, silk, wool, jute and manmade fibres like polyester, nylon, acrylic and viscose rayon are widely available in India. India is the world’s second largest producer of tex les and garments a er China. India, is world’s second largest producer of cotton a er China and also the second largest co on consumer a er China. India is the second largest producer of raw silk a er China and at the same me India is the top most consumer of silk based fancy materials.

But it lags China, whose exports are nearly seven mes higher. Data released by the Apparel Export Promo on Council, the industry body for garment exporters, showed that India’s tex les exports were es mated at $40 billion in 2013, compared with China’s $274 billion. Tex les include everything from fibre and yarn to fabric, made-ups and readymade garments made of co on, silk, wool and synthe c yarn. Over the past few months the Indian garment industry has staged a recovery of sorts which can be seen in the 23% rise in exports of shirts, trousers, skirts and other ready-mades during 2013.

Due to the liberaliza on the of trade and economic policies ini ated by the Government in the 1990s the last decade saw considerable growth much more than the that observed in previous decades. Over the last 10 years, India’s tex le and apparel exports have grown at the rate of 11%. However, a er the phasing out of export quotas in 2005 India’s export performance has been below expecta ons. Apparel is an ideal industry for examining the dynamics of buyer-driven value chains. The rela ve ease of se ng up clothing companies, coupled with the prevalence of developed-country protec onism in this sector, has led to an unparalleled diversity of garment exporters in the third world. In the domes c market, which is over 1.2 bn populaon, sustaining an annual growth rate of 12% should not be difficult. This implies that with a 12% CAGR in domes c sales the industry should reach a produc on level of US$ 350 billion by 2024-25 from the current level of about US$ 100 billion for the domes c market. With a 20% CAGR in exports India would be expor ng about US$ 300 billion of tex le and apparel by 2024-25.

Increasing labor cost and stringent environmental laws China is compelled to bring down its produc on; non-compliance of large number of factories in Bangladesh also provides India a big opportunity in view of its rela ve advantage and risk appe te of Indian entrepreneurs. A small push from the Government may help India to get more business as overseas buyers are looking at India as safe and reliable op on for the sourcing. But to capture the space in market le by China and Bangladesh, we have to be compe ve in price, be er quality and delivery in proper me and therefore, Government agencies’ ac ve support is very crucial.

This would of course imply that growth rates in exports of fibre and yarn would start declining and growth rates of apparel, homes furnishing, technical tex les and other finished products should grow very rapidly. This is going to be the trend as everyone is crystal clear about the benefits of climbing up on value chain and then expor ng the products. The profitability is much more significant when you supply the finished garments as compared to supplying the yarns, and raw fabrics. This would also maximize employment genera on and value crea on within the country in the tex le and apparel industry.

In consulta on with the Industry, meanwhile, the Ministry of Tex les has fixed an export target of USD 45 billion for tex le products for the year 2014-15. Exports of tex le products are supported through different schemes under Foreign Trade Policy e.g. Focus Market Scheme, Market Linked Focus Product Scheme, Focus Product Scheme and Duty Drawback Scheme. Exporters of tex le products can also avail duty free import of capital Goods under EPCG and raw material under Advance Authoriza on Scheme.

With regards to domes c market, within certain states such as West Bengal and North-Eastern states there exists a good room to develop the market in these areas. On certain exis ng problems in India in the field of fiber research, development and industrializa on, India needs an altera on in research environment to bring in the needed radical change. TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | OCT - DEC 2014 www.textilevaluechain.com

1.1 T›ø㮽› B痦›ã 2014-15 Everyone accepts the fact that India has to increase its share in export basket. In order to encourage exports of readymade garments it has been announced in “Union 14


ROAD MAP FOR INDIAN TEXTILE AND APPAREL INDUSTRY Budget 2014 – 15” to increase the duty free en tlement for import of trimmings, embellishments and other specified items from 3% to 5% of the value of exports.

CÊò › Ù SãÊÙù

nance Minister announced an increase in duty free en tlement for import of trimmings, embellishments and other specified items from 3 % to 5 % of the value of their exports. The Government has fixed an export target of $17.2 billion for readymade garments during 2014-2015. The Scheme for Integrated Tex le Parks (SITP) was launched in 2005 to encourage private investments and employment genera on in the tex le sector by facilita ng world class infrastructure for common facili es, such as roads, water supply treatment and distribu on network, power genera on and distribu on network, effluent collec on treatment and disposal system, design centre, warehouse, first aid centre, etc. The tex le parks are at different stages of implementa on. Fourteen of the first 40 parks have been completed and 13 parks are opera onal. Investment in parks ll date is Rs. 5,025 crores with direct employment of 47,167. Sixteen tex le parks were sanc oned in the 11th Five-Year Plan, of which 11 texle parks have become func onal. Five tex le parks were sanc oned in the 11th Plan for Maharashtra, of which four are func onal now.

The Prime Minister Narendra Modi government, in its first budget exuded its intent to kick start the investment cycle to nurse India’s ailing economy back to good health. Coming amid high expecta ons from the tex le and garment industry, the Finance Minister Arun Jaitley, in his maiden Union Budget 2014-15, charmed the industry par cipants with an array of encouraging proposals. The Central Plan for Ministry of Tex les has been fixed at Rs 4,326 crore for 2014-15, about Rs 425 crore higher than the revised es mates for 2013-14, but Rs 305 crore lesser than the budget es mates for that year. A major por on of this has been allocated for Technology Up grada on Fund Scheme (TUFS) at Rs 2,300 crore. Compara vely, TUFS has got Rs 344 crore more than what was spent last year but Rs 100 crore lesser than what was intended for spending in 2013-14.

1.5 BçݮěÝÝ ¥Ù®›Ä—½ù Tƒø›Ý ƒÄ— Dçãù ÝãÙç‘ãçٛÝ

1.2 Mʗ›ÙÄ®þƒã®ÊÄ Ê¥ 㫛 IėçÝãÙù Technology Upgrada on Fund Scheme (TUFS) is one of the flagship schemes of the Ministry of Tex les and has helped the industry to garner investments of Rs. 243,000 crore for Moderniza on of its set up. The scheme was launched in 1999 and has been instrumental in helping India achieve new heights in the development of the tex le sector and par cularly in the spinning segment. Personally I was involved in evalua ng this scheme at some point of me and I can vouch that indeed this scheme has been a turning point in India’s moderniza on efforts of Tex le Industry. It has definitely brought the industry to gain the compe ve edge. In his Budget Speech of February, 2013, the Finance Minister had announced con nua on of TUFS in the 12th Plan with a major focus on moderniza on of the powerloom sector. Higher subsidies for weaving / powerloom sector have accordingly been planned in the con nued TUFS.

Basic Customs Duty on raw materials (PTMEG etc.) required for manufacturing of spandex yarn reduced from 5 % to Nil. To encourage new investment in the chemicals and petrochemicals sector, the Budget has reduced the basic customs duty on reformate from 10 % to 2.5 %; on ethylene, propylene, and ortho-xylene from 5 % to 2.5 %. Adding to it, the government proposed faster clearance of import and export cargo which will help in minimizing transac on costs and improving business compe veness. The FM also announced exemp on of co on transport loading and unloading services from the purview of service tax. Southern India Mills’ Associa on (SIMA) considers that this development will offer considerable relief to the industry and also to cotton growers.

The tex les industry is provided credit at minimum rates both in the organized and the unorganized sector. In the 12th Plan period (2012-17), the past government had approved Rs 11,900 crore for the con nua on of TUFS and so far more than 15000 crore has been spent on this scheme.

1.6 S֛‘®ƒ½ AÝÝ®ÝãƒÄ‘› ãÊ HƒÄ—½ÊÊà S›‘ãÊÙ In a move to carry forward the rich tradi on of handlooms of Varanasi, the FM announced to set up a Trade Facilita on Centre and a Cra s Museum with an outlay of Rs 50 crore to develop and promote handloom products. Government also proposed to set up a Hastkala Academy for the preserva on, revival, and documenta on of the handloom/ handicra sector in PPP mode in Delhi, for which it has set aside a sum of Rs 30 crore. Further, to provide employment to the people of Jammu and Kashmir, the government proposed to invest Rs 50 crore to start a Pashmina Promo on Programme and a programme for the development of other cra s in the state. Someone has rightly said that “It’s impossible to please everyone.” While the Union Budget 20142015 succeeded in fetching praises from almost the en re tex le industry, there seemed to be a few who expected s ll more from the Budget.

1.3 S›ãã®Ä¦ çÖ Ê¥ Ý®ø T›ø㮽› C½çÝã›ÙÝ Development of various tex le clusters has been one of the strategic path the Government is encouraging to boost the decentralized economy. The government proposed to set up mega tex le clusters at Varanasi, Bareilly, Lucknow, Surat, Ku ch, Bhagalpur, Mysore and one in Tamil Nadu with a sum of Rs 200 crore. It is claimed that the Budget recognizes the aspira ons of a new India which is looking towards the government for decisively moving towards high growth, low infla on and more jobs. As per the minister, this budget aims for a 7 % or higher growth rate in a sustained manner within the next few years and will also usher in macro-economic stability in the near future.

1.7 FDI ›ÄÝçٛ— ¥ÊÙ Iė®ƒÄ ã›ø㮽› ݛ‘ãÊÙ Resurgence has been witnessed in the Indian tex le sector with the introduc on of Foreign Direct Investment (FDI). The government is providing grants under market access ini a ve and market development assistance scheme for maximum u liza on of FDI.

1.4 EøÖÊÙã ãƒÙ¦›ã ¥Ê٠ٛƒ—ùכ ¦ƒÙÛÄãÝ To encourage exports of readymade garments, the Fi-

15

TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | OCT - DEC 2014 www.textilevaluechain.com


ROAD MAP FOR INDIAN TEXTILE AND APPAREL INDUSTRY

COVER STORY

This scenario is based on the present growth trends prevailing in the above listed countries including India. At present it is ranked sixth, a er China, EU, Hong Kong, Turkey and Bangladesh. With exports of US$ 18 bn, India is likely to fall behind Vietnam, Indonesia and Mexico and rank ninth in the world. With lower cost of labor and industry friendly labor laws in other countries as well as special trea es exis ng between US and EU and these countries, India is likely to slide down in this ranking.

2. T›ø㮽› Pʽ®‘ù

Various schemes like Technology Upgrada on Fund Scheme (TUFS), Scheme for Integrated Tex le Parks (SITP), Integrated Skill Development Scheme (ISDS), Scheme for development of Technical Tex les, and Schemes for the development of the Powerloom Sector etc. have been implemented in the tex le sector.

2.1 Sãƒã› Ý֛‘®¥®‘ T›‘«Ä®‘ƒ½ T›ø㮽›Ý Pʽ®‘®›Ý Several states in India have been proac ve in promo ng the technical tex les sector in the country. States like Gujarat, Tamil Nadu, Maharashtra, Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, Rajasthan, Madhya Pradesh and Punjab have especially witnessed some success in this effort. Contribu ng 25% to the na onal technical tex le industry, Gujarat is a major player in the na onal technical tex le sector. Gujarat’s nearly 900 technical tex le units are engaged in each of the 12 subsectors of technical tex les, and the state is a key producer of commodity products for the technical tex le and downstream industries.

India had shipped $ 36.69 billion worth during 2013 showing an upward trend of 11.58 percent. Tex le, clothing and handicra s worth $ 34.93 billion were shipped during April-March, 2012-13. Foreign direct investment (FDI) of worth $199 billion was also made in India’s tex le sector in the financial year 2013-14. Especially for the period AprilMay 2014, the country’s tex le sector a racted FDI worth $ 11.70 million. The tex le ministry beckons a posi ve shi in India’s tex le export. The industry con nues to gain help as the government explores new markets by holding exhibions in the Russian Federa on, Israel, Eastern Europe, La n American countries and other non-tradi onal markets.

Similarly Tamil Nadu, in turn, is also a fast-growing epicenter of technical tex les and is producers of agrotex les, medical technical tex les, sport technical tex les, nonwovens. Coimbatore is also home to one of the country’s eight Centers of Excellence for technical tex les, COE: Meditech (SITRA), which specializes in medical technical tex les. Furthermore, the state’s investor-friendly environment has enabled the development of tex le parks dedicated exclusively to technical tex les. The Government of Tamil Nadu approved the establishment of US$ 21.30 million technical tex le park in Pallavada, which is expected to commence produc on in 2013.

1.8 AÖփٛ½ EøÖÊÙã PÙÊÃÊã®ÊÄ CÊçđ®½’Ý V®Ý®ÊÄ 2015 The world apparel market was worth US$ 345 bn in 2007. The market has grown at a rate of 8% during this decade. However, post quota the rate of growth has increased and for the last two years it has grown at a rate of 12%. There are two possibili es of growth from here on : First, the high growth scenario with average annual growth rate of 12% - In this case, growth trajectory remains same, at 12%. This could be because of supply side push of low cost apparel from China, Bangladesh, Vietnam and other emerging suppliers. Under this scenario, world apparel exports would be worth US$ 854 bn by 2015. Second, a moderate growth scenario with average annual growth rate of 8% - Moderaon due to recession in 2008 & 2009 as also possibility of market satura on can result in growth of 8%. Under this scenario, world apparel exports would be worth US$ 640 bn by 2015. Thirdly, low growth scenario with average annual growth rate of 6% - In this case, under this scenario, world apparel exports would be worth US$ 550 bn by 2015.

Maharashtra is providing significant s mulus to the domes c technical tex les industry. Maharashtra is a key producer of agrotex les, woven technical tex les, ropes and cordages, indutech, and coir fibre. There are four Centers of Excellence on technical tex les in the state: COE: Geotech (BTRA), COE: Agrotech (SASMIRA), COE: Non-wovens (DKTE), and, COE: Sportech (WRA). The state is developing its first technical tex les park in Ichalkaranji, which hosts a large number of stakeholders in the en re tex le value chain, with an investment of US$ 20 million. Karnataka is a growing player in the Indian technical texles sector. During the state’s Global Investor Meet 2012, held from June 6-8, 2012, the state a racted US$ 891 million in investments in its tex le sector alone; these investments included proposals for the establishment of two technical tex le mega projects for US$ 60 million and US$ 18.2 million in Hassan SEZ and Bellary, respec vely.

With the moderate growth in world market, the likely scenario in 2015 will be as follows: Global Apparel Trade : India vis-a-vis compe tors in 2015

Rajasthan is yet another state char ng new fron ers in the na onal technical tex les sector. The state is a renowned leader in the global tex les sector, and is now encouraging the growth of technical tex les to advance its leadership throughout the tex le value chain. Bhilwara has especially emerged as one of the largest manufacturing centres for viscose-polyester tex les.

Trade in US$ Bn Avg Growth rate % Share World

640

8

100

Bangladesh

26

12

4

India

18

10

2.8

Vietnam

32

20

5

TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | OCT - DEC 2014 www.textilevaluechain.com

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ROAD MAP FOR INDIAN TEXTILE AND APPAREL INDUSTRY Punjab is also proving to be a promising market for Indian sportech manufacturers. The state hosts amongst India’s largest sports industries, and is a key supplier to the Indian Raffia, ropes and cordages industries. The state demonstrates significant poten al for the development of a vibrant and thriving industry for sports technical tex les.

CÊò › Ù SãÊÙù

their share of the world market at all, have to demonstrate to foreign buyers that they can compete with the kind of compe on they’ll be up against in the 2020s.

4. R®¦«ã Fʑçݛ— AÖÖÙʃ‘« ¥ÊÙ PÙʗç‘ã D›ò›½ÊÖÛÄã

Madhya Pradesh is another state that is demonstra ng promising growth in the technical tex les sector.

An interna onal study group opined to approach proper u liza on of money and me by concentra ng upon some chosen categories of research rather than to approach all areas. To develop right products, right scien sts, right technologists and right market are vital and decision makers should look into it. In todays’s market the product should be customer driven and be designed and developed in such a fashion in order to reflect customers percep on of ‘quality of value’.

The above eight states’ industrial, MSME, and tex le policies have been instrumental in driving the growth of the technical tex les industry not just locally, but throughout the country.

3. N›ó Nƒã®Êă½ T›ø㮽›Ý Pʽ®‘ù ãÊ R›ò®ãƒ½®þ› 㫛 T›ø㮽›Ý ƒÄ— AÖփٛ½ IėçÝãÙù The Ministry of Tex les had ini ated the process of reviewing the Na onal Tex le Policy, 2000 in order to facilitate the Indian Tex le Industry gain and sustain a global posi on in the manufacture and export of clothing and keeping in view the various changes both on the domes c and internaonal fronts. Accordingly, an expert commi ee was set up to make fresh recommenda ons for the tex le sector revival. The dra Vision, Strategy and Ac on Plan has been submi ed a er a detailed process of stakeholder consulta ons across the en re value chain.

4.1. EÛ٦®Ä¦ ãÙ›Ä—Ý ®Ä ÙƒÄ— Ø烽®ãù Quality of design is a prac ce of using conceptual thinking, product designing and produc on planning all being done at one me. Since the customer evaluates the product in terms of value for money and expects quality product from the manufacturer, these aspects of maintaining the authen city of product and its quality are extremely important. 4.2. PÙʗç‘ã Gʃ½Ý The customer’s percep on of quality and value –many a mes taken as ‘product goals’ are required to be met. Hence there has to be process of evalua on of quality profile of the product.

Mr. Santosh Kumar Gangwar, Minister of State for Tex les (Independent Charge)Santosh Kumar Gangwar. Considering the recommenda ons and feedback received at different consulta on mee ngs, the commi ee iden fied basic concerns in the tex les sector and iden fied the na onal priori es in the form of a Vision & Strategy and the Ac on Plan for a aining the targets set for 2024-25. The Vision projects Indian tex le and apparel exports to grow from $39 billion at present to $300 billion by 2024-25. This translates into addi onal investment required of the order of $120 billion, and in the process around 35 million addional jobs crea on is expected to take place. Through this new and improved Tex le Policy, the Government wants to address concerns pertaining to the availability of skilled work force, new labor reforms, and to a ract investments in the tex le sector, in order to provide a future road map for the tex le and clothing industry.

4.3. N››— Ê¥ MƒÙ»›ã – —Ù®ò›Ä R Ι D Innova on is a key to nay flourishing business and hence market driven R&D for exploring poten al new products has to be in place. Naturally custmers’ need analysis has to be there before undertaking such efforts. While cost component has to be also considered, the novel approach in designing such products got to be there to achieve compe ve edge. 4.4 NW››— Ê¥ EÄ«ƒÄ‘›— T›‘«Äʽʦ®‘ƒ½ CƒÖƒ®½®ãù The organized sector should start diversifying the product – mix by arranging produc on of conven onal products with improved a ributes or altogether newer products. They should undertake the gradual strengthening of technological capability of their manufacturing sector as a whole and hence they need to install high produc ve new genera on machinery for producing yarns and fabrics of improved quality at compe ve costs.

The growth programme surely appears ambi ous. The chart compares the projected growth rate, in dollars, over the next 11 years with the actual growth rate of apparel exports in the past eleven. Apparel exports by China to the EU and US in the eleven years from 2000 grew 6.1 mes but at the beginning of the period China were not even in the WTO, and tex le exports from prac cally all developing countries to the EU and US attracted fierce quota barriers. China’s eleven years of growth coincided with the withdrawal of these barriers, while Bangladesh’s 3.3-fold export increase coincided with a drama c reduc on in EU import du es levied on Bangladeshi garments. India, by contrast, apparently expects its tex le and apparel exports to grow 7.7 mes over eleven years.

4.5 N››— Ê¥ MƒÙ»›ã PÙÊÃÊã®ÊÄ Presently most of the manufacturers are not fully aware of all the aspects of today’s market demands, especially export and they are following ‘product driven marke ng’ instead of ‘market driven produc on’. In today’s market, it is the ‘consumer delight’ that is preferred over ‘consumer satisfac on’ with product quality. Hence, aggressive strategy for marke ng has to be adopted, specially for crea ng a new brand image in order to exploit the new market opportunies likely to be created for sustainable development.

No one can disagree with the importance of India creating 35 million new manufacturing jobs. However, the Indian tex le and apparel businesses, if they’re going to increase 17

TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | OCT - DEC 2014 www.textilevaluechain.com


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COVER STORY

ROAD MAP FOR INDIAN TEXTILE AND APPAREL INDUSTRY

CÊđ½çÝ®ÊÄÝ

ligh ng the customers of modern era. The kind of business opportunity which is going to be created due to China’s decline in produc on capacity as well as worsening situa on in Bangladesh, the industry should gear itself to deliver such demands. In the present era of the globalised trade, their brand image and product value offered are also important. Sooner or later the tag of sustainability is also going to be one more emerging factor for providing an edge to newly offered product.

The Government of India through the Ministry of Texles is giving all-round policy support to strengthen the posi on of Indian Tex le, Apparels and Technical tex le industry, so that a compe ve advantage can be provided to this mother industry while expor ng their goods. The domes c market is also expanding and it is important that the domes c consumer also gets their chosen goods with value for money. The support from state governments for moderniza on and infrastructure development over and above that from the Union government is also quite encouraging and looking at the vision and goals ,it is understandable that the industry is strongly backed by the policy support. From the industry point of view they need to invest in moderniza on, designing and innova on as well as R&D for being not only compe ve in quality and costs ,but also innova ng in de-

COVER STORY

A •

NATIONAL EMPLOYMENT POLICY BY SHRI. V.Y.TAMHANE

Employees are the decisive factor for efficient operaon of any industry. Hence in the present days, all industries give emphasis on ‘Human Rela ons’ and not on ‘Industrial Rela ons’. Due to limited job opportuni es and a sizeable backlog of unemployment, coupled with the steep increase in the cost of living, dra ing of a sa sfactory Employment Policy at the na onal level is essen al.

as stated earlier, this rate of payment should only be indicave and without any statutory compulsion.

S»®½½ —›ò›½ÊÖÛÄã ÖÙʦكÃÛ ®Ä î½½Ý 󫮑« ƒÙ› ÄÊã փÙã Ê¥ ‘½çÝã›ÙÝ. Government is rightly giving emphasis on skill development. The process of developing voca onal training as a dynamic vehicle for enhancing produc vity is proposed to be accelerated through the network of over 10,000 Industrial Training Ins tutes[ITIs].

In earlier days, the work force was available from rural areas in the state or through migra on of persons from underdeveloped regions in other states. With the spread of industrializa on in backward areas under the policy of balanced growth, there is an in-built check on migra on. Hence, shortage of workers is felt by almost all industries.

It is a ma er of gra fica on that the tex le industry’s central body the Confedera on of Indian Tex le Industry has lost no me in se ng up the Tex le Sector Skill Council. The council should focus on strengthening the innova on, performance, compe veness and job-crea ng power of tex le mills. The Council should bring together industry, academia including technical ins tutes and HR Personnel. The objec ve of the Skill Council should be to educate and train the workforce for advanced manufacturing processes.

A number of factors are responsible for the development of this situa on of shortage of workers. With the spread of educa on and introduc on of beneficial legisla ons like the Right to Educa on Act, and increased opportuni es to get educa on with the se ng up of a large number of educa onal ins tutes, there are signs of aversion on the part new entrants in the labour market for manual jobs, while the number of educated-unemployed is bloa ng. MNREGA is another factor which has resulted in the decline of rural youths going to towns and ci es for employment. The push for industrializa on of the underdeveloped areas in different States has also curtailed migra on to some extent.

Gone are the days when the tex le industry was concentrated in some ci es like Mumbai, Ahmedabad, Baroda, Indore, Delhi, Kolkata etc. Now, the industry is fairly spread out and exists at a number of centres, and even in rural areas. It will be difficult for individual mills to depute workers to ITIs for training purposes. The reason is that in a composite mills there are 15-20 types of different machines or even more and to a lesser extent in the case of spinning mills and powerloom factories. Now, due to lack of mul -skilling, a worker working on one type of machine is not able to work on other types of machines. Hence to spare workers directly responsible to give produc on is a difficult job.

S‘«›Ã› Ê¥ AÖÖٛÄ㮑›Ý A raw person is recruited as an appren ce. The training of appren ces is the subject-ma er of the Appren ces Act. There should not be any cap on the number of appren ces for a designated trade, and the individual managements should be at liberty to recruit as many appren ces as they deem fit.

Another issue is that all ITI’s do not have machines required for tex le mills. In fact, no ITI has any tex le machine. But, training has to be arranged on the machines on which the worker is currently working or going to work in future. In this context, the need for mul -skilling requires no over-emphasis.

The s pend to the appren ces should be paid as per the policy of individual managements. As a thumb rule, it could be 60% of minimum wages in the first 3 months, 70% in the next 3 months on sa sfactory comple on of the 1st semester of 3 months, 80% in further 3 months on sa sfactory comple on of the 2nd semester of another 3 months and full minimum wages on successful comple on of the appren ceship and absorp on as a regular worker. However, TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | OCT - DEC 2014 www.textilevaluechain.com

: “Authors have vastly depended on the informa on provided in public domain from the sites of MOT (PIB), AEPC, Yarns and Fibres news bureau Delhi and Mumbai, etcand are gratefully acknowledging these sources”

Hence, a be er op on would be to provide for training 20


NATIONAL EMPLOYMENT POLICY

SKILL

BY SHRI. V.Y.TAMHANE within industry (TWI). Under this op on, workers will get trained on the machines on which they have to work. Government should make available support desired by mills for introduc on and running of TWI. However, training in some trades like electrician, plumber, motorman etc could be arranged in a nearby ITI, where emphasis is on skill development in the engineering-related trades.

pressure of ever increasing popula on on ci es and towns, etc. This will go a long way to achieve the objec ve of MNREGA.

FʑçÝ Ê¥ 㫛 LƒÊçÙ LƒóÝ The focus of the Labour Laws should be to create addi onal jobs and not reten on of exis ng jobs at any cost. Labour laws should not overlook the stake of the employer in the industry.

Apart from improving skills of workers, training must ins l in them that progress in life is the fruit of commitment, dedica on and devo on. The object of training must be to induce workers to achieve higher job produc vity, reduc on in wastage and controlling the usage of inputs like power, water, steam etc, and adop on of disciplined way of life.

C½ÊÝçٛ Ê¥ ¥ƒ‘ãÊÙ®›Ý / î½½Ý When one talks about star ng of new factories, one has also to take into account the possibility of failure of some factories to run successfully. In some such cases, closure may become inevitable. For closure of an establishment, it is necessary to take permission of Government. The denial of permission for the closure of mills o en leads to illegal closures and the workers are denied even their statutory dues. Therefore, closure should be allowed without strings and permission to sell land without any restraint but with adequate compensa on to workmen.

BƒÙ¦ƒ®Ä®Ä¦ ¥ÊÙ ®ÃÖÙÊò›Ã›Äã ®Ä óƒ¦›Ý/ݛÙò®‘› ‘Êė®ã®ÊÄÝ ›ã‘. The Skill Development Council should develop in the minds of workers a deep sense of commitment and to idenfy themselves with the organiza on in which they are working. There should be no militancy on the part of workers and demands should not be made at the cost of the unit itself. It is also necessary to decide whether there should be collec ve bargaining or unit-wise bargaining.

CÊÄãك‘ã LƒÊçÙ Outsourcing is a worldwide phenomenon including hiring contract labour. Of course, regulatory provisions should be strengthened to enlarge the responsibility of the contractor and to ensure that contract workers are paid minimum wages and enjoy the statutory cover of social security measures provided under the ESI and EPF. This would lead to a win-win situa on both for the labour and the employer. Thereupon, the Contract Labour (Regula on and Aboli on) Act should be renamed as Contract Labour Regula on Act.

S»®½½ —›ò›½ÊÖÛÄã ®Ä ‘½çÝã›ÙÝ Ê¥ ã›ø㮽› ®Ä—çÝãÙù If there are clusters of tex le mills, it will be easier to implement skill development programmes. At such clusters, ITI’s should be set up with the installaon of a model tex le mill, where workers could be trained for ugrada on of skills, in different trades.

M®Ä®Ãçà Wƒ¦›Ý A‘ã.

To promote development of clusters, there should be schemes to be implemented jointly by Central and State Governments to provide for following infrastructure -

It is recommended that the minimum wages should be fixed industry-wise taking into the paying capacity of the enterprise. Minimum wages are fixed by a Commi ee which is specially cons tuted by State Government and which includes representa ves of State Government, Employers and Employees. All the stakeholders should have the same percentage of representa on on the Commi ee. The texle industry consists of organized sector, and decentralized sector. The representa ves of both the organized sector and powerlooms should find a place on such Commi ees.

i)

Improved connec vity to nearby towns and ci es by construc ng good motorable roads ii) Good motorable roads for interconnec ng different factories in a cluster with each other. iii) Providing the facili es of schools, colleges, and other educa onal ins tutes, and hospital of ESIC. iv) Uninterrupted supply of potable water and power v) Establishment of banks, market for day-to-day requirements, etc. Development of such infrastructure facili es will lead to development of rural areas, considerably reducing migraon of popula on to ci es and towns for employment, and

ACME ÖÊó›Ù Ýʽçã®ÊÄ ¥ÊÙ ã›ø㮽› ƒÖÖ½®‘ƒã®ÊÄÝ Reliable 24/7 Power Solu on you can rely on for all your tex le applica ons Tex le industries as we know are power intensive, and are always at a suffering end due to gap in demand and supply of power. There are huge losses due to unavailability of a con nuous power supply that is free of interrup on or disturbance as is demanded by their cri cal con nuous produc on processes. Unplanned stops means loss of produc on me.

The purpose of the Na onal Labour Policy should be to create a dynamic and highly collabora ve environment in all manufacturing units.

This in turn leads to compromise on the quality. Studies have shown that a lot of tex le mills had to shut down due to heavy losses caused by frequent power interrup ons and all other power quality disturbances ACME’s breakthrough Lithium-ion based technology helps tackle power interrup ons & loss due to power restora on me by providing dependable back-up power to Tex le Industry. The technology is built to prevent unforeseen stops. The solu on handles power-cuts, varying power quality and even stop in

21

op mal ways. We possess a profound knowledge of tex le industry requirements. The soluons ACME offers are therefore geared towards ensuring a con nuous and reliable power supply, process con nuity, reduced costs as well as an op mal balance between energy produc on and process requirements. Precision combined with flexibility and robust reliability makes LiB technology solu on the op mal choice for the industry. TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | OCT - DEC 2014 www.textilevaluechain.com


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ARVIND GAP

ARVIND GAP PARTNERSHIP

Arvind es up with Gap to bring Iconic American Retailer to India First stores to open in Mumbai and Delhi in 2015

the addi on of Gap in our por olio as a significant step to becoming the leading apparel retailer in India” said Mr. Sanjay Lalbhai, Chairman & Managing Director of Arvind Limited.

Mumbai - Arvind announced that its subsidiary Arvind Lifestyle Brands Ltd, has ed up with Gap Inc., to open Gap stores in India. The first stores are expected to open in India’s two largest ci es - Mumbai and Delhi - star ng with Gap’s Summer 2015 collec on for adults, kids and babies. Arvind plans to open about 40 franchise-operated Gap stores in India.

“Gap has a huge recall in India and is a favourite of many Bollywood stars in movies. Our goal is to leverage this huge awareness, to quickly scale up and build a large business for Gap Franchise in India” said J. Suresh, Managing Director & CEO, Arvind Lifestyle Brands Ltd.

“India is an emerging, vibrant market and an important next step in our global expansion strategy,” said Steve Sunnucks, Global President of Gap. “Gap is loved around the world for our American casual style and enduring value and quality, and we are so pleased to bring our brand and products to life for customers in India.”

Since launching its first franchise-operated store in 2006, Gap Inc. has quickly expanded the interna onal reach of its brands, which now includes over 300 franchise-operated stores along with over 3,200 company-owned stores. The Gap brand now has a presence in nearly 50 countries, due to the rapid accelera on and commitment to the global expansion strategy.

As the world’s second most populous country with more than 1.2 billion people, India represents an important pla orm to bring American casual style to consumers around the world. “More than half of India’s popula on is under 25 and they are ac vely embracing fashion in today’s retail environment,” said Ismail Seyis, Vice President of Gap Global Franchise. “We are thrilled to know that our brand awareness is very high and there is a deep affinity for Gap in India. We look forward to gaining a deeper understanding of the marketplace and consumer needs to create the best possible Gap brand experience for the local consumers.” “We have a long and successful associa on with Gap as their vendor partner. Now I am delighted to extend this partnership to retail and bring Gap stores to India. We see Tyco Fire ProtecƟon Products Educates Indian Building Safety Industry on Fire DetecƟon Tyco Fire Protec on Products (“Tyco”) held a series of seminars in August en tled ‘SIMPLEX – Building Safety’, focusing on the latest advancements in fire detecon and alarm systems, across India. The events held in five major ci es, brought together more than 700 architects, engineers and end users, such as facility managers and building owners. The seminars provided insights into the most recent updates to interna onal fire detec on codes and standards and showcased the latest innova ons in fire detec on fromSIMPLEX – the market-leader in helping people protect large-scale, complex projects. The seminars were part of a broader programme of ac vi es by Tyco and its expert distributors in suppor ng specifiers, design engineers and end users in India. Industry specialists from Tyco, including Peter Ryan, Senior Commercialisa on Manager globally responsible for the SIMPLEX brand, and Rodger Reiswig, TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | OCT - DEC 2014 www.textilevaluechain.com

Director of Industry Rela ons, shared their extensive knowledge on the latest technological developments and provided prac cal analysis of the latest updates to the Na onal Fire Protec on Associaon (NFPA) Codes and Standards. Par cipants learnt about theSIMPLEX brand’s world-leading, integrated range of fire protec on solu ons that include control panels, ini a ng devices, system accessories, worksta ons and no fica on appliances. Highlights included“TrueAlert ES” addressable no fica on appliances, which offer revolu onary automated selftest capabili es, and the latest enhancements to “TrueSiteWorksta on”, such as its mobile client applica on for secure, convenient access to important life safety system data at any me, from any locaon. Peter Ryan commented: “The rate of economic and commercial development in India brings with it many opportuni es and some dis nct challenges; ensuring facili es are safe and well equipped to handle risk is cri cal. As the number of largescale, complex construc on projects

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increase, specifiers, engineers and end users need trusted experienced partners with technological capabili es to help them protect their people and facili es efficiently and effec vely.” “With a networkable, modular design, fault tolerant architecture and leading-edge tes ng and service capabili es, SIMPLEX fire detec on products can handle the most challenging facili es. Cost-effec ve to maintain, the products are upgradable for the life of the facility and compa ble with past and future SIMPLEX fire detec on products.” Rodger Reiswig added: “We are commi ed to helping end users, specifying engineers and members of India’s building and construc on community to keep informed about interna onal codes and standards and give them access to market-leading fire protec on products. The seminars provide us with the perfect opportunity to share our knowledge and ensure our services and products con nue to meet and an cipate the unique needs of the Indian market.”


Great Quality Makes Great Fashion


RECYCLING OF PLASTIC BOTTLES INTO YARN & FABRIC PÙÊ¥ Yʦ®ãƒ A¦Ùƒóƒ½(AÝÝã.PÙÊ¥) , PÙÊ¥. Rçփ½® KƒÖÊÊÙ(AÝÝã.PÙÊ¥), PÙÊ¥. TƒÄò››Ù Mƒ½®» (AÝÝã.PÙÊ¥) , MÝ V®—«® Rƒ¦«çóƒÄÝ«® S«Ù® Vƒ®Ý«Äƒò IÄÝã®ãç㛠ʥ T›‘«Äʽʦù ƒÄ— S‘®›Ä‘›, IėÊٛ(MP)

Ýò®ãÝ.ùʦ®ãƒΜ¦Ãƒ®½.‘ÊÃ

AÝãك‘ã In this project report I am going to discuss about the recycling of the plas c bo les into the yarn and fabric. In this report it is describe how the plas c bo les that are a non degradable waste which is increasing the waste and one of the reasons for global warming can be converted into a useful product that is fiber and than it can be further used for making yarn and into fabric. In this report it will be discussed about the making of the fiber from the plas c bo les and then forma on of yarn. Further we will study the proper es of the yarn and its applica on in different field.

IÄãÙʗç‘ã®ÊÄ Today, the u liza on of recycled materials is ma er-offact, although in virtually no other sector is it quite as advanced as it is in the case of the manufacture of manmade fibers. Compared to using new plas cs, u lizing recycled materials can lead to a significant reduc on in energy consumpon and CO2 emissions. Furthermore, valuable raw material resources such as oil are preserved and the amount of waste at dumps is reduced The clothing industry is a heavy user of resources and an equally heavy polluter. It is a consumer industry that by its nature encourages people to buy and discard clothing according to the fashion of the day rather than in terms of durability or environmental impact. Environmental fashion, organic fashion, and recycled fabrics are a empts to alter the status quo. Organically produced co on avoids the use of chemicals and poisons but is s ll a minority of what is available. On the other hand, Australian company INSTYLE selects wool over recycled PET for its tex les because wool is locally produced and doesn’t contain the hazardous chemicals which are present in PET. “The fabric made out of the PET fibre is basically polypropylene and it is ten mes stronger than a normal polyester fabric. But to weave or knit the yarn made out of PET bo les needs very heavy machines and ll now Europeans have mastered in this technology and the looms/kni ng machines are very expensive,” points out Gautam. However, the company is exploring the possibility of manufacturing PET based fabrics in India.

L®ã›Ùƒãçٛ ٛò®›ó: • •

Fiber and filaments, expert’s magazine, August, 2013 Scrap-pet-bo les-to-re-generated-polyester-staple.

O¹›‘ã®ò›: 1. To make the yarn and fabric from plas c bo les. 2. To study the various proper es of the yarn and fabric formed.

H®ÝãÊÙù “There’s been a fundamental change in our culture TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | OCT - DEC 2014 www.textilevaluechain.com

26

TECHNICAL

when it comes to recycling and sustainability,” remarked William L. Jasper, president and CEO of Greensboro, N.C.-based Unifi Inc., manufacturer of Repreve® recycled fibers and yarns. “The younger genera on thinks about it differently than the older genera on. It’s really much more important now, and it’s going to con nue to be. People are star ng to recognize there are only so much landfill space and only so much oil.” Post-industrial (PI) recycling has been prac ced for years, and the first recycled-content tex le products contained primarily or exclusively PI materials, which would include trimmings le on the cu ng room floor in apparel and other tex le product manufacturing facili es. In recent years, post-consumer (PC) content has increased as more and more consumer recycling programs have been established in communi es across the United States and in other countries worldwide.

T›ÙîÄʽʦù: W ? • polyester fleece or polar fleece is a so , fluffy, two-sided pile fabric which is really warm, really durable, resists moisture and dries quickly • popular for outdoor wear since the early 1990s be cause it’s lighter and warmer than wool • has also been used for more unusual garments e.g. underwear for astronauts, ear-warmers for winter-born calves • the polymer used to make polyester fibres is known as polyethylene terephthalate or PET; the same is used for drink bo les • some or all of the yarn can be made from recycled bo les W PET? • PET is the name of the resin used to make transpar ent, light, sha erproof bo les for so drinks, juices, alcohol, water, detergents, soap etc • PET stands for polyethylene terephthalate • bo les are the most significant use for PET • PET is fully recyclable

M›ã«Ê—Ý: The recycling process – the basis for further processing: Expert processing of waste is the decisive prerequisite for manufacturing high-end recycled yarns. It enables the u liza on of recycled materials in place of new material with merely a small change to the processing method. To this end, there are two different processing approaches, described as chemical or mechanical recycling. In the case of chemical recycling, the old plas c is broken down into its original monomers by means of glycolysis, hydrolysis or methanolysis. These monomers are then used to manufacture new plas c granulate through polymerizaon. To this end, the quality of the recycled product is very close to that of new materials and it can be used to spin high-end yarn. Compared to mechanical recycling, the chemical procedure requires greater energy consump on. Add to this the fact that due to the high capital investment requirements, this op on is only available to large-scale manufacturers, as cost efficiency can only be achieved from annual capaci es of 50,000 tons and more. For this reason, mechanical recycling has been the


RECYCLING OF PLASTIC BOTTLES INTO YARN &

TECHNICAL

clearly predominant recycling method to date. Here, plas c waste is melted directly without any chemical decomposion. The melt can then be either processed directly into the end product or first granulated into chips. There is a current trend towards systems for in-house recycling of produc on waste in the form of chips. Recycling systems available on the market can process various forms of waste, including solid start-up lumps, for instance. To this end, the waste is shredded, melted and re-granulated. Processed in this way, it can then be simply reintroduced to the produc on cycle.

â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘

PĂ&#x2122;Ă&#x160;Ă&#x2013;Â&#x203A;Ă&#x2122;ĂŁÂŽÂ&#x203A;Ă?: RÂ&#x203A;Â&#x2018;ĂšÂ&#x2018;½ŽĂ&#x201E;ÂŚ FÂ&#x192;Â&#x2018;ĂŁĂ? â&#x20AC;˘ 10 plas c bo les = 1 pound of polyester fiber â&#x20AC;˘ 1 ton (2000) lbs of plas c bo les recycled saves 3.8 barrels of oil â&#x20AC;˘ 1 million plas c bo les recycled saves 250 barrels of oil â&#x20AC;˘ 1 million plas c bo les recycled eliminates 180 metric tons of CO2 emissions from being released into the atmosphere â&#x20AC;˘ 10% of all US oil consumed (2 million barrels per day) is used to make plas cs â&#x20AC;˘ Recycling plas c bo les takes 8 mes less energy than to produce an equivalent amount of new ones â&#x20AC;˘ 150 fleece garments made from recycled plas c bo les save 1 barrel of oil â&#x20AC;˘ 500 t-shirts made from recycled plas c bo les saves 1 barrel of oil â&#x20AC;˘ 50 back packs made from recycled plas c bo les saves 1 barrel of oil â&#x20AC;˘ Supplying the plas c bo les that Americans consume each year requires 47 million barrels of oil and releases 1.0 billion pounds of CO2 into the atmosphere

HĂ&#x160;Ăł Â&#x2014;Ă&#x160; ĂšĂ&#x160;ç ãçĂ&#x2122;Ă&#x201E; Â&#x192; ÂĽÂ&#x203A;Ăł Ă&#x2013;½Â&#x192;Ă?ĂŁÂŽÂ&#x2018; Â?Ă&#x160;ãã½Â&#x203A;Ă? ÂŽĂ&#x201E;ĂŁĂ&#x160; Ă&#x2013;Ă&#x160;½ÚÂ&#x203A;Ă?ĂŁÂ&#x203A;Ă&#x2122; Â&#x192;Ă&#x201E;Â&#x2014; Ă&#x2013;Â&#x203A;Ă&#x2122;ÂĽĂ&#x160;Ă&#x2122;Ă&#x192;Â&#x192;Ă&#x201E;Â&#x2018;Â&#x203A; Â&#x192;Ă&#x2013;Ă&#x2013;Â&#x192;Ă&#x2122;Â&#x203A;½? It all starts when you toss a PET bo le (labeled #1) into a recycling bin. These bo les are sorted at a recycling facility and bundled together in large bales. The bales of PET bottles are then taken to a PET reclaiming facility. The bo les are thoroughly cleaned, the labels and caps are removed, and the bo les are separated by color (the clear bo les will produce a white-ish polyester yarn and the green bo les produce a green-ish yarn). Once theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re sorted, the bo les go into a grinder where they are ground into small flakes. The flakes are tossed in hot air to give them a hard candy coa ng and then dried to remove any remaining moisture. Next, the dry, crispy flakes are shoved through hot pipes to melt them into a thick liquid. That liquid gets filtered through a dye plate with 68 ny holes. As the liquid polyester flows through the holes, it forms filaments that are more than five mes finer than human hair. The filaments pool and harden and are then sent over rollers where air entangles the filaments to create a dental floss-like yarn. The machine spools the yarn and then pulls it over hot metal rollers to stretch it and realign the polyester molecules. The resul ng yarn is ready to be woven into polyester clothing.

FÂŽÂ?Â&#x203A;Ă&#x2122; Â&#x192;Ă&#x201E;Â&#x2014; YÂ&#x192;Ă&#x2122;Ă&#x201E; CĂ&#x160;Ă&#x201E;Ă?ĂŁĂ&#x2122;çÂ&#x2018;ĂŁÂŽĂ&#x160;Ă&#x201E; CÂ&#x192;Ă&#x2013;Â&#x192;Â?Ž½ŽãŽÂ&#x203A;Ă? â&#x20AC;˘ FIBERS: All natural and manmade fibers and blends â&#x20AC;˘ OPEN-END: .4Ne. to 14Ne. or .67Nm to 23.6Nm. in singles and plies â&#x20AC;˘ DREF SPUN: Customized solu ons and proprietary capabili es â&#x20AC;˘ TWISTING: Up to 16 components

PET Ă&#x2122;Â&#x203A;Â&#x2018;ĂšÂ&#x2018;½ŽĂ&#x201E;ÂŚ Ă&#x2013;Ă&#x2122;Ă&#x160;Â&#x2018;Â&#x203A;Ă?Ă? â&#x20AC;˘ PET bo les are sorted from other recyclable plas cs such as PVC and HDPE, as the reclaimed material (PET flakes) is most valuable when it is most pure â&#x20AC;˘ bales of recycled bo les are sorted manually or automa cally on the basis of colour, and to remove any foreign material or non-PET lids and bases â&#x20AC;˘ the plas c is washed in a sterilising bath, a er which the clean containers are dried and crushed into ny flakes

P½Â&#x192;Ă&#x201E; Ă&#x160;ÂĽ ĂłĂ&#x160;Ă&#x2122;Âť SĂ&#x160;Ă&#x2122;ĂŁÂŽĂ&#x201E;ÂŚ When the PET bo le is returned to an authorized redemp on center, or to the original seller in some jurisdicons, the deposit is partly or fully refunded to the redeemer. In both cases the collected post-consumer PET is taken to recycling centers known as materials recovery facili es (MRF) where it is sorted and separated from other materials such as metal, objects made out of other rigid plas cs such as PVC, HDPE, polypropylene, flexible plas cs such as those used for bags (generally low density polyethylene), drink cartons, glass, and anything else which is not made out of PET.

6&5$33(7%277/(6 6257,1* :$6+,1* 6+5('',1*72)/$.(6 9$&880'5<,1* +($7,1*0(/7,1*  (;758',1*72)520 ),/$0(17

6381%21'(' 121:29(1)$%5,&

Post-consumer PET is o en sorted into diďŹ&#x20AC;erent color frac ons: transparent or uncolored PET, blue and green colored PET, and the remainder into a mixed colors frac on. The emergence of new colors (such as amber for plas c beer bo les) further complicates the sor ng process for the recycling industry.

'5$:,1*),1,6+,1* &5,03,1*&877,1* ),%(572/(1*7+ 32/<(67(567$3/( ),%(5%$,/,1* '(63$7&+

the flakes are washed again to ensure the purest possible final product these flakes become the raw material for new products for yarn, the light-coloured flakes are bleached, while flakes from darker bo les are used for yarn that will be dyed a dark colour; the flakes are melted in a vat and forced through spinnerets to produce fibres

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PĂ&#x2122;Ă&#x160;Â&#x2018;Â&#x203A;Ă?Ă?ÂŽĂ&#x201E;ÂŚ ÂĽĂ&#x160;Ă&#x2122; Ă?Â&#x192;½Â&#x203A;

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RECYCLING OF PLASTIC BOTTLES INTO YARN & FABRIC The sorted post-consumer PET waste is crushed, pressed into bales and offered for sale to recycling companies. Colourless/light blue post-consumer PET a racts higher sales prices than the darker blue and green frac ons. The mixed color frac on is the least valuable.

FçÙ㫛٠ãٛƒãÛÄã The further treatment process includes crushing, washing, separa ng and drying. Recycling companies further treat the post-consumer PET by shredding the material into small fragments. These fragments s ll contain residues of the original content, shredded paper labels and plas c caps. These are removed by different processes, resul ng in pure PET fragments, or “PET flakes”. PET flakes are used as the raw material for a range of products that would otherwise be made of polyester. Examples include polyester fibers (a base material for the produc on of clothing, pillows, carpets, etc.), polyester sheets, strapping, or back into PET bo les.

M›½ã ¥®½ãكã®ÊÄ Melt filtra on is typically used to remove contaminants from polymer melts during the extrusion process. There is a mechanical separa on of the contaminants within a machine called a ‘screen changer’ a typical system will consist of a steel housing with the filtra on media contained in moveable pistons or slide plates that enable the processor to remove the screens from the extruder flow without stopping produc on. The contaminants are usually collected on woven wire screens which are supported on a stainless steel plate called a ‘breaker plate’ a strong circular piece of steel drilled with large holes to allow the flow of the polymer melt. For the recycling of polyester it is typical to integrate a screen changer into the extrusion line. This can be in a pelletizing, sheet extrusion or strapping tape extrusion line. Once the flakes are dried up, they pass through a process called electrosta c separator, which produces magne c field to separate PET flakes from metal, besides different kinds of plas c par cles and other contamina ons. The cleaned flakes of reclaimed PET are then forwarded to produc on sec on for the final product to produce fibre. According to Gopal Agarwal, CFO, GPL, the sor ng and processing of raw material is a key factor for maintaining uniform quality of finished product on constant basis as raw material is not having uniform characteris cs, and quality of finished goods may have significant degree of varia ons.

HÊó Ö½ƒÝ㮑 ®Ý ‘ÊÄò›Ù㛗 ®ÄãÊ ùƒÙÄ ãÊ ó›ƒò› ÊÙ

PET bo les are separated from other plascs in a materials recovery facility. TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | OCT - DEC 2014 www.textilevaluechain.com

»Ä®ã ¥ƒÙ®‘? Conver ng it into garment or home furnishing products is an interes ng transi on. It actually happens by re-mel ng the PET bo les and then thick material is pressed through spinnerets, leaving them as filaments - just like in case of the produc on of virgin synthe c fibres. Filaments can be used as endless yarns or curled and cut into length-defined fibres for spinning. A er weaving, the fabric is converted into garment, preferably fleece pullovers, jackets or sweatshirts. The recycled PET thread or yarn can be used either alone or together with other fibres to create a very wide variety of fabrics. Tradi onally these fabrics were used to create strong, durable and rough products, such as jackets, coat, shoes, bags, hats and accessories. However, these fabrics are too rough on the skin and could cause irrita on. Therefore, they are not used on any clothing that may irritate the skin, or where comfort is required. But in today’s new eco-friendly world, there has been more of a demand for “Green” products. As a result, many clothing companies have started looking for ways to take advantage of this new market and new innova ons in different ways to process the fabric, to use the fabric, or blend the fabric with other materials for

be er finish so as to be more wearer-friendly.

T›‘«Äʽʦù The processing of the melt from recycled material can in principle be carried out in the same way as in the case of u lizing new granulate. The filaments are cooled, drawn, textured and wound following mel ng and spinning. Fundamentally, recycling applica ons in yarn manufacturing include: staple fibers, carpet and tex le filaments as well as

Bales of crushed PET bo les sorted according to color: blue, transparent, and green.

30

TECHNICAL

Bales of crushed PET bo les.


TECHNICAL

RECYCLING OF PLASTIC BOTTLES INTO YARN & FABRIC

nonwovens. As examples, the number of 2-liter PET bo les required for specific applica ons is roughly as follows: 5 for a T-shirt, 20 for the filling of a winter jacket, 20 for a sweater, 35 for a sleeping bag and 40 for 1 m2 of carpe ng.

A—òƒÄユ›Ý The only difference between the produc on of recycled polyester yarn and virgin polyester yarn is in the ini al material. The produc on of virgin PET begins with the produc on of nurdles--teeny ny plas c resin pellets-made from petroleum and other products. Unfortunately, nurdles are li le troublemakers that o en find their way into waterways. Addi onally, making nurdles requires a lot of energy, much more then grinding up plas c bo les. By some es mates, the produc on of recycled PET uses 2/3 less energy and almost 90% less water than the produc on of virgin PET. And of course, no new petroleum is required to produce recycled PET

The overall trend is moving away from simple fillers to more differen ated products with higher value added. These include, for example, spun-dyed FDY filaments. BCF applica ons – for which the deployment of recycled PET is already widespread – are extremely interes ng. Recycled PET is frequently used in regranulated form and incorporated in different ra os. However, applica ons with 100 percent inputs of flakes are currently possible using Oerlikon Neumag technology. It is par cularly in this sector that there is currently strong growth, with an increase of 13,000 tons per annum in 2013 and a further 27,000 tons per annum by 2015.

W«ƒã ®Ý ݃ò›—? • landfill: an es mated eight plas c drink bo les are kept out of landfill for each metre of polar fleece made from 80% recycled PET bo les • fossil fuels: virgin polyester is derived from petroleum, so it saves on fossil fuels • Patagonia, the leading manufacturer of recycled polar fleece clothing, es mates that 25 drink bo les go into each jacket. They claim that for about 150 garments made, they save a barrel of oil and avoid half a tonne of toxic air emissions compared to making it out of virgin polyester.

In the case of staple fibres, the trend is currently very much on the deployment of bi-component technology. Here, separate extruders with individually temperature-controllable melt pipes and special spinning units are u lized, with either different polymers or the same polymers with various iscosi es being used. The spinning beam is connected to the temperature regula ng system of the higher-melting polymer. Short dwell mes in the spinning beam prevent the lower-mel ng polymer experiencing thermal damage. The spin pack for bi-component fibres physically separates both melts right up to the capillary that actually creates the filament. Pre-spinneret and spinneret subsequently allow the two components to be arranged in different ways.

Newlife™ is a complete and cer fied system of recycled polyester filament yarns coming 100 percent from recycled plas c bo les, processed into a polymer through a mechanical (not chemical) process and spun into yarn. The flexible Newlife pla orm allows for a vast number of applica ons and performances with levels of quality at least equal to virgin polyester equivalents, but with considerable resource and cost savings for the environment. Applica ons for Newlife include fashion, sportswear, underwear, technical clothing, work wear, medical garments, outdoor clothes, furnishings and accident preven on tex les. Thirty 1.5 liter bo les make one kilo of Newlife yarn.

Both round and trilobal cross-sec ons are possible in the case of fibres with mantle and core. One possible combina on for the components is recycled PET for the core, with a mantle made from the respec ve virgin material or a copolymer. To this end, the ra o of core and mantle can be variably adjusted, so that – despite the deployment of predominantly recycled plas c – the thin mantle layer ensures a perfect surface. And recycled material is also used for manufacturing filament yarn. Here, melt-dyed FDY yarns, which can be produced directly from flakes without prepara on, are a growing area. To this end, some companies are – thanks to Oerlikon Barmag machines – already successfully marke ng recycled FDY, for example. As minor contaminants can result in more frequent yarn breaks, u lizing the very latest spinning technology is par cularly important. POY and DTY from recycled raw materials usually have coarser ters to compensate for weaknesses caused by contaminants (70150 den).

G½Êƒ½ Ýãƒã®Ýã®‘Ý Worldwide, approximately 7.5 million tons of PET were collected in 2011. This gave 5.9 million tons of flakes. In 2009 3.4 million tons were used to produce fiber, 500,000 tons to produce bo les, 500,000 tons to produce APET sheet for thermoforming, 200,000 tons to produce strapping tape and 100,000 tons for miscellaneous applica ons. (Source: PCI, www.pcipetpackaging.co.uk ) Petcore, the European trade associa on that fosters the collec on and recycling of PET, reported that in Europe alone, 1.6 miln tones of PET bo les were collected in 2011 - more than 51% of all bo les. A er exported bales were taken into account, 1.12 million tons of PET flake were produced. 440,000 tons were used to produce fibers, 283,000 tons to produce more bo les, 278,000 tons to produce APET sheets, 102,000 tons for strapping tape and 18,000 tons for miscellaneous applica ons. (Source: PCI for Petcore and EuPR)

China recently introduced three official standards for filaments made from recycled materials: R-POY, R-DTY and R-FDY. These categories, with fixed logos, technical requirements and tes ng methods have created uniform standards. In the future, greater deployment of recycling is quite conceivable within the industrial yarns sector. In the Ford Focus, a large propor on of the seat covers today are made from recycled polyester fibres. Here, around 22 plas c bottles are recycled for use in each vehicle. The manufacture of re cord however is even more problema c and is only possible using chemical recycling. Residual contamina on is s ll too high in the case of mechanical processes.

In 2012, 81% of the PET bo les sold in Switzerland were recycled.

Iė®ƒÄ ‘ÊÃփĮ›Ý ƒÄ— ¥Êٛ®¦Ä ‘ÊÃփĮ›Ý 31

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32


RECYCLING OF PLASTIC BOTTLES INTO YARN & FABRIC FABRIC FROM PLASTIC • Arora Fibres recycles discarded plas c bo les into polyester used as packaging material Don’t chuck out those plas c bo les that have been piling up in your kitchen for days. They can be re-used to make polyester fabric. Rupinder Singh Arora, Chairman of Arora Fibres Ltd, has been recycling discarded plas c bo les into polyester staple fibre since 1994 a er he saw the colossal damage to the environment from mountains of bio-degradable plas c being burned in the country. “We were the pioneers in this field. •

TECHNICAL

produc on process. RePET®-solu on rpet recycled yarns also offer higher performance, including light-protecon, water-protec on, washing-protec on, an -UV, an -aging, an -weathering, and color reproducibility proper es. LIBOLON’s RePET®-solu ons will be your best choice for Recycled Polyesters and eco tex le products.

AÖÖ½®‘ƒã®ÊÄ Finished product finds applica on in spinning of yarn, stuffing of toys and other life style products like pillows, quilts, ma resses and furniture, non-woven carpets and fabrics, automo ve non-woven roofing insula on, medical & packaging tex le, geo tex le, fur fabrics and other technical tex les

Patrick Yarns is leading the revolu on in spinning high quality yarns from recycled fibers. Our proprietary engineered process of cer fied tex le recycling reclaims unwanted cloth or garment fabrics without seriously damaging the fibers. The major customers for our PET recycled fibre are spinning mills like Birla Cotsyn, Chenab Tex les, Orient Syntex to men on a few. The end use of this recycled fibre is - spun yarn, hosiery yarn, blended woollen yarn and technical tex les,” shares Gopal. The yarn produced out of the recycled fibre is being exported as well as being sold in the domes c market. Delhi-based Orient Syntex is expor ng its yarn to Malaysia and in the domes c market it is selling its yarn through agents in Erode,Tirupur, Salem, etc. who are selling these yarns to companies like Export Tex, Javan Knits Garments, etc. According to Gautam Sureka of Eastern Silk Industries, Kolkata which has gone for a joint venture with an Italian company SATI to manufacture technical tex les in India for industrial wear, the recycled PET fibre has not picked up so much in India for tex le purpose as it is a very expensive process and there is yet no real demand for the same. Polar fleece has become the fabric of choice for outdoor enthusiasts because it is so light and warm. Increasing amounts of polar fleece are made from recycled PET bo les in preference to virgin polyester. The process saves on raw materials and energy use, and diverts rubbish from landfill. Patagonia, a US based company, pioneered the concept of recycled polarfleece garments for outdoor wear. It employs environmental design strategies at all stages of the garment life cycle. Recycled polar fleece clothing is available in Australia, but the fabric is currently manufactured overseas. There are arguments for and against the use of PET over natural fibres. Although recycled PET is a synthe c material, its use is environmentally preferable to co on. Co on produc on uses more land, more water, and more chemicals. Australia is making strides into environmental fashion that extend beyond polar fleece. Tencel and hemp are being used for clothing by Australian companies. Target is using recycled fabrics in its clothing and doonas. LIBOLON strives for developing recycled polyesters and innova ves RePET®-solu on rpet recycled polyesters yarns are more environmentally-friendly than tradi onal RePET® products due to the elimina on of the dyeing process. Using Recycled Polyester and eco tex les, LIBOLON’s RePET®-solu on rpet recycled yarns reduce emissions of GHG and COD, lower water consump on, and decrease the amount of chemicals involved in the

R›‘ù‘½›— PET Êãã½›Ý çݛ— ¥ÊÙ ƒ كĦ› Ê¥ ®ã›ÃÝ • can be recycled back into bo les, but at present the fibre market is the major outlet for recycled PET • fibres from recycled PET bo les are used to make a range of items: finer fibres are used for clothing; coarser yarns are used for carpe ng S瑑›ÝÝ¥ç½ YƒÙÄ AÖÖ½®‘ƒã®ÊÄÝ • Colored recycled fiber blends producing economical colorfast yarns • Integra ng recycled fibers in the yarn center to create a core filler • Matching a recycled fiber percentage within a high value, yet economical performance blend • Op mizing a higher valued recycled fiber percentage in a commodity-driven yarn to enhance product value without significant price disrup ons

BUSINESS STRENGTHS Point 1: Prolifera on in the use of PET bo le on the back of 7 – 8 % CAGR growth coupled with low scale of recycling (about 30 – 40 %) to yield abundant feed stocks to be recycled. Point 2: Indian Man Made Fiber (MMF): Natural fiber ra o of 41:59 to align to global ra o of 63:37 consump on. Huge scope of growth in consump on of polyester fiber. Point 3: Raw material price for recycled PSF insulated unlike in virgin PSF which is linked to crude prices (PTA and MEG) thereby ensuring stable margins with scale up of business. Point 4: Changing life styles and cost effec veness led to innova ve applica ons of the MMF. This has clearly helped to expand its market share. Such trend is likely to con nue. Some of the notable ones are winter clothes, Disposables, Non-woven, technical tex les etc. Expanding market lends growth visibility Point 5: Govt. support in terms of Excise Duty exemp on for recycled PSF. Point 6: Industry associa ons like CII, have launched programs to reward companies for green endeavour like recycling. In future, government shall extend benefits to such companies.

Iė®ƒ C盗 ®ÄãÊ ã«› Tٛė In India as well there are companies, which have put up PET phase capaci es. As per the es mates, India produces 500,000 tonnes of pet waste every year and due to increasing use of pet bo les in daily consump on, the amount of 33

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TECHNICAL

RECYCLING OF PLASTIC BOTTLES INTO YARN & FABRIC

waste is going to grow by leaps and bounds. At present, the total recycling capacity in India is around 145,000 TPA, out of which Reliance Industries Ltd. has a capacity of 42,000 TPA and Kanpur-based Ganesh Polytex Ltd (GPL) has a capacity of around 39,600 TPA and rest is with other small local players.

The savings made by u lizing low-cost raw materials for recycled products are usually completely eaten up by complex collec on and prepara on processes. Nevertheless, recycling can s ll generate a rac ve profits, as customers are increasingly willing to pay higher prices for sustainable and environmentally-friendly products. The growing interest in ecological yarns has been driving the crea on of new and highly-respected cer ficates. To be issued these coveted labels, manufacturers must provide evidence of sustainable produc on for 100 percent of their recycled material. For this reason, ever more companies are demanding energy-saving machines for manufacturing highend recycled yarns. Oerlikon Barmag and Oerlikon Neumag have the innova ve technologies to cater to this expanding market segment with the right machine concepts.

Presently GPL is recycling about 1.4 billion PET bo les annually at its Rudrapur plant where the bo les are first cleaned and then sent to shredders and grinders to reduce them to flakes. The flakes are forwarded to the cleaning secon for a series of sor ng and washing process performed with chemicals to remove any residual. “Though it is s ll early, buyers have started showing interest. While interac ng with various buying offices like Ahlens, JCPenney, to men on some, they are looking at recycled PET as an alternate to man-made fibre. Says Richard James, Head Ahlens India, “On my recent visit to Thailand, I met a company which is making yarn out of PET, I found the product very interes ng and I am now looking at developing fabric with this yarn to do some product development in home furnishing items like for rugs and carpets.”

RESULT AND CONCLUSION The prac cal will be further con nued in the major project and in that the yarn and fabric will be formed and further study will be done in that. References: • Fibers and filament, issue aug,2013 • Scrap-pet-bo les-to-re-generated-polyester-staple. • h p://merridypugh.com/por olio/recycling-project • h p://www.patrickyarns.com/green_recycled/earthspun/ • h p://specialtyfabricsreview.com/ar cles/1012_np2_postconsumer_polyester.html • h p://www.indiantex lejournal.com/ar cles/FAdetails.asp?id=2904 • h p://www.vrijesh.com/recycled_polyester.htm • h p://www.tex leworld.com/Issues/2010/November-December/ Features/From_Waste_To_Worth • Clark Howard, Brian. “Recycling Symbols on Plas cs - What Do Recycling Codes on Plas cs Mean”. The Daily Green (Good Housekeeping). Retrieved May 7, 2012. • Teijin Group. “Teijin Develops Eco-friendly Wet-strong Prin ng Paper Made 100% with Recycled Polyester Derived from Used PET Bo les”. Teijin Group. Retrieved March 12, 2013. • “Plas c Packaging Resins”. American Chemistry Council. • Melt Filtra on Op ons and Alterna ves

Whatever developments in PET yarn Richard found in Thailand was in thicker count and not finer counts which can be used for making garment. JCPenney too is looking for PET yarn and fabric makers in Taiwan. As things are moving it would not take too long for fabrics made out of PET bo les to get popular with consumers especially for industrial garment and sportswear. The demand of course has to percolate from the buyers’ end and when there is demand, the developments will take place. How soon the concept spreads, that is s ll to be speculated as the technology is expensive but then it’s environment-friendly preposi on which is buyer’s first concern; however, it also contradicts their belief that it is not organic and cannot be organic.

SçÃÃÙù

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pla orm, FireClass also gives end users flexibility in service and maintenance op ons and spare part procurement. “Innova on and product development are central to our business strategy,” comments Nishith Shah, Country Manager TFPP - India Region. “Building on our experience in the fire detec on industry, we’ve taken a new approach which provides our trade customer base with a complete brand that integrates proven technology and robust, reliable products that are easy to use. With FireClass, we’re able to offer fire system installers and integrators a complete solu on that enables them to raonalise suppliers, saving me and cost during the installa on and configuraon phases.” The FireClass por olio includes a complete range of fire panels which offer solu ons for all applica ons. These 34

include the J408 conven onal two, four and eight zone panel and the J424 conven onal expandable to up to 24 zones panel, all with op onal ex nguishment module. Addressable panels such as the FireClassFC501, aTriple Circuit Single Loop Panel, can be configured in minutes.Sinha, Shabdsheel, Sales Director at Tyco Fire Protec on Products adds, “We believe there are significant opportuni es for the new FireClass range and have already received a posi ve response from some of our customers looking for an integrated fire detec on package. This new system complements our exis ng range of fire detecon solu ons Simplex, for the larger, mul -site complex applica ons. We are extremely excited about the launch of the FireClass brand and product range in India and look forward to welcoming exis ng and new customers.”


KNITTED FABRIC SOFTNESS ͳ WAYS TO IMPROVE

TECHNICAL

force encountered by the fibres enhances the adhesive forces between the fibres and prevent fibres from flying or slipping past each other under the tensile strain.

Ni n.T.Pa l

It is the process of a enua ng the roving strand un lrequired final yarn count achieved and inser ng twist to the fibres by means of a rota ng spindle and winding the yarn on a bobbin. These three stages take place simultaneously and con nuously.The ring yarn is characterized by high flexibility in the use of the raw material, the yarn count and the yarn character. It possesses a high degree of strength and yarn hairiness.

Prof Dr.S.P.Borkar

VeermataJijabai Technological Ins tute (VJTI),Mumbai

Compact Spinning All the improvements and op miza ons of the ring spinning process only par ally relieve the problems caused by the spinning triangle. The spinning triangle formed by the fibre bundle at delivery roll nip is the weakest point in the ring-spun yarn forming process.

AÝãك‘ã The process of conver ng fibres into yarn is complex, and requires many inves ga ons and new technical soluons.Ring, Compact, Rotor and Air-jet spinning systems provide yarn with different structures and proper es. Each system has its limita ons and advantages in terms of technical feasibility and economic viability.

Based on a thorough analysis of the spinning triangle structure, reached was the conclusion that only successful solu on of the spinning triangle problem would enable the produc on of the ring-spun yarn with less hairiness and better physical-mechanical proper es.

The output poten al of the Rotor and Air-jet spinning has quickly captured the a en on of spinners who have a hard me staying in business due to the persistent and growing global compe on. Any improvements in terms of the quality or count range would increase the demand for new spinning systems and broaden their applica on areas.

The ring spinning process with the minimized spinning triangle is called the compact (condensed, compressed).

K›ùóÊٗÝ:

Compact is also dis nguished by extremely high strength, even yarn structure, low hairiness and high yarn density.

Air -Jet spinning, Ring spinning, Compact spinning, Rotor Spinning, Handle,Comfort.

RÊãÊÙ SÖ®ÄĮĦ In rotor spinning, fibre bundle from the sliver feed stock is separated into individual fibres with an opening roller in an air stream and fibre are re-collected in the rotor groove. The rota ng, brush-like open yarn end first catches fibres in the core and then with further rota on gradually takes up fibres towards the periphery. In the interior, where the fibres cannot avoid the twist, the strand becomes more compact but also somewhat harder. On the other hand, towards the exterior, compactness and hardness fall off to an increasing degree, since here the fibres are par ally less twisted-in. Shortly before leaving the rotor groove the twis ng yarn catches some single fibres, which then are wound around

IÄãÙʗç‘ã®ÊÄ The most common spinning systems to convert fibres to yarn are Ring, Compact, Rotor, and Air-jet spinning. Characteris cs of yarns made from each of these systems & their limita ons are briefly described under.

R®Ä¦ SÖ®ÄĮĦ In ring spinning,the fibre mass of the rove is reduced by a dra ing unit. The twist inserted moves upwards and reaches the fibres leaving the dra ing unit. The fibres lay around one another in concentric helical path. The normal Ring Spinning

• Most flexible in raw material,count, characteris cs • High tenacity • High hairiness

Compact Spinning

• Highest tenacity • Even yarn structure • Low hairiness • High yarn density

RÊãÊÙ SÖ®ÄĮĦ

A®Ù- ¹›ã SÖ®ÄĮĦ

• Unique low hairiness

• High volume

• High volume • Low tendency for saff • High abrasion resistance

High op cal evenness • Low varia on in tenacity • Designable hairiness • High abrasion resistance

35

Fig.1 Characteris cs of the yarns produced from different spinning system

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TECHNICAL

KNITTED FABRIC SOFTNESS ͳ WAYS TO IMPROVE

the fibre compound like wrappers. Those “wrapper fibres” are a typical characteris c of rotor yarns.

colour is the first and foremost a ribute which tempts us while purchasing. Second is the fabric feel which s mulates the purchase decision further. So according to the survey conducted by Co on Incorporated, so ness of the fabric contributes to 84% irrespec ve of the gender of the buyer.

A®Ù -¹›ã ÝÖ®ÄĮĦ In Air- jet spinning, a sliver is fed to the dra ingsystem; the dra ed sliver enters a spinning nozzle. The leading end of the fibres forms the parallel yarn core; the free fibre ends are wound around the yarn core by the air in the spinning nozzle. The Air- jet yarn is then wound onto a package. The air-jet-spun yarn structure consists of core fibres without significant twist and covering fibres with a genuine twist, which ul mately produces the corresponding yarn tenacity. The specific yarn structure results in yarn tenacity between that of a ring-spun yarn and that of a rotor-spun yarn. (2) (3) (4)

YƒÙÄ ÝãÙç‘ãçٛ ƒÄ— ®ãÝ ®Ä¥½ç›Ä‘› ÊÄ ›Ä— ÖÙʗç‘ã

Fig. 2 - Co on Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor Survey (5)

The yarn structure primarily depends upon the raw material, spinning process, spinning principal, machine se ngs, twist, etc. The structure can be voluminous or compact, high or low hairiness, so or hard, round or flat.

In case of co on knits, so hand feel is the most expected characteris cs of the garment whether it is an innerwear or an outerwear.

But yarn structure is not simply appearance. It has a greater or lesser influence on:

Yarns produced from new spinning systems like rotor and air-jet have harsher feel as compared to ring spun yarn due to their different outer structure. With the proper selecon of raw material, spinning components and machinery se ng, now it would be possible to compensate in order to improve so ness even on new spinning systems. With this, the gap between new spinning system and ring spun yarn can be narrowed down without compromising the parent benefits like be er abrasion and pilling resistance of Rotor and Air- jet spun yarn respec vely.

• • • •

Rʽ› Ê¥ SÖ®ÄĮĦ SùÝã›ÃÝ ®Ä ®ÃÖÙÊò®Ä¦ ÝÊ¥ãěÝÝ

Handle Strength and elonga on Resistance to abrasion Dye absorp on

N›ó ÝÖ®ÄĮĦ ÝùÝã›Ã– PÙÊÝ ƒÄ— CÊÄÝ Compared with ring spinning, they offer the following advantages: • • • •

High produc on rates Elimina on of processing stages Considerable reduc on in personnel and space and energy consump on Rela ve ease of automa on.

C«›Ã®‘ƒ½ PÙʑ›ÝݮĦ Tex le wet processing have three stages:pre-treatment, colora on and finishing. Pre-treatment: It is a process, where grey fabric undergoes scouring and bleaching to remove the natural impuri es, pec n, waxes as well as added impuri es. This is a prerequisite to be er and uniform colora on

Yarn characteris c of Rotor and Air-jet yarn is differing from that of ring-spun yarn, which s ll represents the basic standard for comparison.

ColoraƟon: It is a process of adding colour to tex le product such as fibre, yarn and fabrics

T«› Ã®Ä ÖÙʐ½›ÃÝ Ê¥ 㫛 ěó ÝÖ®ÄĮĦ ÝùÝã›ÃÝ ƒÙ›: • • • •

Finishing: It is the final step in the manufacturing process; the last chance to provide the proper es that customers value.Finishing completes the fabric performance and gives it special func onal proper es including the final ‘touch’.

Greater demands on the raw material; Market segments limited to a narrow count range, specific raw material types, specific end products High level of know-how needed for spinning op mizaon and process maintenance Expenditure on repair and maintenance.

Use of various so eners in the final stage of chemical finishing by exhaust, pad or deposi on on surface by other means such as foam finishing, spraying etc. is used to impart the desired so handle. Variousso eners such as organic(ca onic, anionic& non-ionic), polyethylene emulsions & silicon emulsions(Macro, Micro,Nano) are available in the market & being used by customers based on the desired results &cost-effec veness. Amongthese ,the silicon emulsions & silicon based combina on so eners are extensively being used for the finishing of co on knits.

Rʽ› Ê¥ ÝÊ¥ãěÝÝ ¥ÊÙ ‘ÊÄÝçÛ٠󫮽› Öçّ«ƒÝ®Ä¦ T›ø㮽›Ý Main criteria for consumer tex les at the POS (point of sales) are, • • •

Op cal impression Touch/ Hand Price Whenever we go out for shopping, usually we get attracted by colours of fabric displayed in the showrooms. So TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | OCT - DEC 2014 www.textilevaluechain.com

Silicone so eners are becoming extremely important because of their very good so ness and greater wash perfor36


KNITTED FABRIC SOFTNESS ͳ WAYS TO IMPROVE manceas compared to others. The mechanism of so ening by silicone treatment is due to flexible film forma on. The reduced energy required for bond rota on makes the siloxane backbone more flexible. Therefore, polysiloxanes form a flexible film on fibres and yarns and hence reduces the inter-fibre and inter-yarn fric on. Thus, the silicone finishing of tex les produces an excep onally so handle combined with other proper es such as superior smoothness, greasy feel, excellent body, improved crease resistance, etc. (6) (7)

a

the surface of the yarn or the fabric (Fig no.3).Macro emulsions also have lower washing fastness compared to micro emulsions. Macro and micro emulsions are generally amino silicones. Micro silicone emulsions give a permanent feel to the fabric with a high degree of so ness. Amino func onal silicones have shown good so ening ability.

R›¥›Ù›Ä‘›Ý 1. Rieter Com4 Yarns 2. Hans leitner, Harald Schwippl,Processing characteris cs of TENCELR LF / co on blends on Rieter’s 4 end spinning systemsRIETERSpecial Prints 3. Carl Lawrence - Fundamentals of Spun Yarn Technology 4. Anindya Ghosh, ‘Studies on structural aspects of ring, rotor air jet and open-end fric on spun yarns’ Na onal conference on Emerging trends in tex le, fibre& apparel engineering, Govt. college of engineering, Berhampore, West Bengal, March 2006 5. Rameshkumar C., Anandkumar P.,, Senthilnathan P., Jeevitha R. Anbumani N - Compara ve studies on Ring Rotor and Vortex Yarn Kni ed Fabric - AUTEX Research Journal, Vol. 8, No4, December 2008 6. Co on Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor Survey 7. S. D. Wolfgang, H. J. Peter J. “Chemical Finishing of Tex les”, (2004) Woodhead Publishing. 8. W. D. Schindler & P. J. Hauser. “Chemical Finishing of Tex les”, (2004) Woodhead Publishing. 9. MazeyarParvinzadeh&RoozbehHajiraissi - Macro- and Microemulsion Silicone So eners on Polyester Fibres: Evalua on of Different Physical Proper es J SurfactDeterg (2008)

b

Fig. 3 - Cross sec on of yarns treated with silicone so eners. a Macroemulsion silicone par cles deposited on the yarn surface. b Microemulsion silicone par cles penetrated into the yarn(8) Silicone so eners are based on macro and micro emulsions. Par cle size of macro emulsion silicone so eners is 150-250 nm while that of micro is lower than 30 nm. Due to this fact, they penetrate the inner structure of the yarn or the fabric while macro emulsion silicone so eners se le on

OUTLOOK ͳ EDNA

POST SHOW REPORT

In opening the 13th edi on of OUTLOOK™, the world-leading conference for the nonwovens personal care industry, Pierre Wiertz, General Manager of EDANA reminded delegates that there was a close rela onship between many of the conference themes, and EDANA’s daily mission to support the growth and promote the sustainable development of the industry.

as the must-a end event of the year for the personal care and hygiene products industries. Feedback from par cipants throughout the event underlined the sa sfac on with the many opportuni es to meet with the industry, and the mix and quality of papers. With opportuni es engineered for delegates to focus both on the conference proceeding and to enjoy relaxed networking, a rac ng the whole supply chain of the absorbent hygiene products and wipes industry from across the globe, OULOOK™, the only one of its kind in Europe, is one of the “must-a end” events each year.

“While our industries con nue to face challenges, be it those raised by the rela ve uncertainty of the current global economy or geo-poli cal situa ons, or the demands from the end consumer, our industry will address these – as you do with other challenges – with a recogni on of the indispensible role your products play in our lives every day, and the social benefits they deliver.” said Wiertz.

With OUTLOOK™ having already expanded into Asia, with its second edi on in November 2014, and the first edion of OUTLOOK™ Plus La n America in Sao Paulo, Brazil in March 2015, the nonwoven personal care and hygiene industries (and a broader industry focus in Brazil), regardless of loca on, have the support of a world-leading event to both meet and get informed about those topics and issues essen al to its development.

“With the changing demands from the consumer, from developing markets, and evolving requirements along the supply chain, both the Associa on’s coordinated programme of work, and the con nual investment and development by companies are essen al to the sustainable and profitable growth of individual companies and the industries we serve.” con nued Wiertz.

The next edi on of OUTLOOK™ will take place in Athens, Greece, from the 23rd to the 25th September, 2015. Details about the loca on and booking forms for the hotel will be posted to the EDANA website : www.edana.org

With more than 420 delegates from across the nonwovens and related industries, OUTLOOK™ was again confirmed

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TECHNICAL

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TECHNICAL

NATURAL DYES ͵AN OVER VIEW

S BƒÙ«ƒÄÖçÙ»ƒÙ ,

Natural dyes are environment-friendly, for example, turmeric the brightest of naturally occurring Yellow dyes is powerful an sep c which revitalizes the skin, while Indigo gives a cooling sensa on, many researches and industrialist have shown that synthe c dye are suspected to release harmful chemicals that are allergic, carcinogenic and detrimental to human health.(12)

Assistant Professor ,Department of TexƟle Technology. Shri Vaishnav InsƟtute of Technology and Science, INDORE

A KçÃ٠Director , UƩar Pradesh TexƟle Technology InsƟtute , Kanpur

2 IÃÖÊÙãƒÄ‘› Ê¥ Nƒãçك½ Dù›Ý Color had played a dominant in life of human beings since mes immemorial. In the prehistoric mes natural colorants were the only source available for impar ng color to the life of man. The ancestors of the human ac vi es witnessed unrivalled mastery in innova ve applica on techniques as evident from the works of classical an quity. Industrial revolu on caused chemistry to play a predominant role in offering various synthe c dyestuffs to the tex le industry and novel techniques of applying them. The advent of synthe c dyes almost limited the use of vegetable dyes for more than a century in the last decade. The use of synthe c dyestuff during their applica on has been cri zed due to the introduc on of contaminants into the environment. At present, the tex le industry in many developing countries is facing the tremendous impact of famous German ban on 118 specified azo dyes and 20 carcinogenic aryl amides including Benzedine. The need to preserve environment has led to the revival of old prac ce of colora on with natural dyestuffs due to the carcinogenic nature of some synthetic dyes and their intermediates(13). Natural colorants are more compa ble with the environment on account of better biodegradability and can be considered as one of the safe alterna ve over many hazardous synthe c dyes. The limita on associated with the natural dyes is that the tradional processes for their applica on on various substrates have been lost in the absence of proper documenta on and years of neglect. It becomes therefore necessary to develop new methodology of coloring and also to standardize these techniques with the help of modern scien fic inputs so that these dyes can replace the current synthe c dyes.(14)

ABSTRACT Dyes can be derived from nature through herbs and plants flowers, seeds, barks and roots. Natural dyes give the subter, rich warm colors that are unique combina ons.. Natural dyes can be categorized as either substan ve or adjecve. Substan ve dyes (also known as direct dyes) such as Indigo lichens or Walnut hulls affix to the fiber without the aid of another chemical or addi ve. Adjec ve (also known as mordant dyes) require a fixa ve, generally a metal salt, to present the color from washing or bleaching out.

K›ùóÊٗÝ: Nƒãçك½ —ù›Ý, ÝçÝãƒÄã®ò› —ù›Ý, ƒ—¹›‘ã®ò› —ù›Ý

1 IÄãÙʗç‘ã®ÊÄ Today in the world of growing environmental consciousness, natural colorants have a racted in the a en on of everyone. The art of dyeing with vegetable dyes has gained atten on not only from the safety point of view but it is good for health and environment also having experienced quality of novelty and beauty.(1)(2) The Importance of color in tex le products cannot be under es mated prior to the advent of synthe c dyes in 1856, all coloring ma ers were extracted from naturally available goods. The Inven on of synthe c dyes almost limited the use of vegetable dyes to specific fabric only such as kalamkari, hand printed tex les etc (Katyayini VKLT and Dr. Jacob Mary 1998).(3)(4)(5) The globe has been facing the serious environmental pollu on over a long period of me which eventually has turned the social atmosphere back to the mother nature. This entails the need for study and interest in natural dyes performed were the pigment analysis on the old fashioned tradi onal fabrics dyed in natural agents or the work on natural colorized pigments applicable to dye. The natural dyes have with unique characteris cs, viz mild, sta c deep feel having the capability to express many kinds of hues and chronora according to different mordents and rela vely less amount of disposal water, when compared to those of synthe c dyes (Bae, Soon-Ei 2009).(6)(7) Natural dyeing is an age old prac ce. It was the result of the quest of man for coloring ma er from natural sources such as plants and animals. But most of natural dyes do not fix permanently to the fibers and less they are used with chemicals called ‘mordants’. Also with the use of mordants a range of colors can be obtained with the same dye material (Singh Jeet, S.S. Yadav S. & Gaba. G. 2003).

With present na onal and interna onal awareness of environment situa on and the use of eco-friendly fibers and natural dyes has been increasing all over the globe. Looking from the angle of na onal health, it is not possible to ignore the fact that the most synthe c fibers and synthe c dyes are non-biodegradable and many of the chemicals used for their manufacturing are hazardous from health point of view. Because of the drawbacks of using synthe c materials people are rever ng back to natural dyes and natural fibers especially for co on. Most of natural dyes not fix permanently to the fibers without mordants, mordant help in the dye to get absorbed. Also with the use of mordants a range of colors obtained with the same dye materials. A variety of these shades depends on the nature of mordant, its concentraon, dye and substrate used. Mordants may or may not be colored, their sole use is due to their capacity to precipitate the coloring ma er on the fabric.(15) Natural dyes derived from plant sources on the other hand are non-toxic and biodegradable. These dyes from natural sources do not poses effluent problems. For these reasons, the research inves gaon carried out throughout the world has steadily increased to iden fy, and extract natural colorants and use them for dyeing tex le fibers. Our interest in the iden fica on of the dye from plant sourc es have shown that Onion skin (Allium

Up to the middle of the 19th century, only natural dyes were available. In 1856, W.H. Perkins accidentally discovered aniline dye, and synthe c dyes slowly began replacing natural dyes. From Perkin’s discovery of Mauveine in 1856 to the turn of the century, hardly a year passed without the issue of a new patent for a synthe c dye. TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | OCT - DEC 2014 www.textilevaluechain.com

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NATURAL DYES ͵AN OVER VIEW cepa) Belonging to the family Liliaceae and second source namely Mango Bark (Mangifera Indica), a yellowish brown dye is used for co on is extracted from the barks so that Mangifera Indica bark and Onion skin were used in dyeing co on material.(16)

TECHNICAL

increased tremendously. Use of natural dyes in colora on of tex le materials is just one of the consequences of increased environmental awareness. Natural dyes are being preferred over the synthe c dyes because they exhibit be er biodegradability and compa bility with the environment. Also the dyes obtained from natural sources do not posses the danger of allergic reac on and are non-toxic in nature, so this present study is being conducted on natural dyes.

Today natural dyes have become essen al need of every person because natural dyes are more relevant worldwide in the context of increasing environment consciousness. However, all the natural dyes are not essen ally non-toxic, through most of them are proved to be non-toxic and eco-friendly.

4 SÊçّ›Ý Ê¥ Nƒãçك½ Dù›Ý: Natural dyes obtained from plants, animals, By-products, and ssue or cell culture. Although some fabrics such as silk and wool can be colored simply by bling in the dye, others such as co on require a mordant. Natural dyes in the

Besides eco-friendliness, natural dyes have many more technical advantages, including their uncommon and soothing shades. In spite of all the present interna onal consumpon of natural dyes never shades on co on material, dyed with extract of natural dye obtained from Onion Skin and Mango Bark combina on.

present study belong to Biodegradable pigments. Categories of Natural dyes

3 Nƒãçك½ Dù›Ý Different fibers absorb color differently. Protein fibers like wool and silk readily takes dyes. Bast Fibers like linen, rayon, hemp and co on are more resistant to taking dyes. Proper mordan ng, however a sure that the dye will hold part. The basic of any chemical reac on hold true for dyeing. Time, temperature and concentrate and grater concentraons will generally result in more intense colors. Natural dyes considering the toxic effects of the synthe c dyes there has been a renewed efforts to study and implement the various natural dyes in the dyestuff industry primarily there are three categories of natural dyes firstly that are derived from plants like Indigo, second the ones that are obtained from animal sources called cochineal and those that are got from minerals (ocher). Natural dyes can provide the much heard alterna ve to the complex world of chemical dyes. There is a whole variety of plants which can be used to make plant dye. Different parts of plants are used to make dyes: for example the leaves, the skin of fruit, the bark, roots or wood, when you pick a plant for making dye, collect seeds and then plant them, so that more plants will grow. Natural dyes are non-hazardous and non-toxic. • 100% safe for you and the environment, these exci ng eco-friendly natural dyes are concerned, inter-mixable and provides all the color possibili es of natural dyes with the ease and convenience of chemical dyes without the hazards.(17) Natural dyes are a class of colorants extracted from vegeta ve mater and animal residues. They can be broken down into the following categories:

Colors

Chemical classifica on

Common names

Yellow and Brown

Flavone dyes

Weld Quercitron, fus c osage, chamomile, tesu, dolu, marigold

Yellow

Iso-quinoline dyes

Barbery

Orange Yellow

Chromene dyes

Kamala

Brown and purple grey

Naphthoquinone dyes

Henna, walnut, alkanet, pi

Red

Anthraquinone dyes

Lac, cochineal, madder

Purple and black

Ben Zophyrone dyes

Logwood

Blue

Indigoid dyes

Indigo

Neutrals

Vegetable tannis: gallotannis, ellagitannis and eatechol tannis

Wa le, myrobalyn, pomegranate, sumach, chestnut, eucalyptus.

4.1

Natural vegetable dyes have become a part of human life since me immemorial Egyp an mummies, documents of Mughal periods etc. bear tes mony to the use of these dyes. These natural dyes obtained from natural resources, are non pollutant, non allergic, shade rich and warm. With the introduc on of synthe c dyes in the middle oh the 19th century, the use of natural dyes was on the wane. But due to several pollu on problems posed by synthe c dye the world is once again veering round to natural dyes. In the recent pass, the demand for natural dyes has TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | OCT - DEC 2014 www.textilevaluechain.com

Nƒãçك½ —ù›Ý ʐヮě— ¥ÙÊà ֽƒÄãÝ:

Many plants and some animals have been iden fied as poten ally rich in natural dye contents and some of them have been used for natural dyeing for quite some me. Various parts of plants like roots, stems, barks, leaves, fruits and seeds may contain coloring ma er which can be exploited. Normally natural dyes are extracted from the roots, stems, leaves, flowers, fruits of various plants. Some plants may have more than one color depending upon which part of the plant one uses the shade of the color plant produces will vary according to me of the year the plant is picked, how it was grown, soil condi ons etc. The minerals in the water used in a dye bath can also alter the color. Some natural dyes contain natural mordants. Many natural dyestuff and stains were obtained mainly from plants and dominated as sources of natural dyes. Pro39

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TECHNICAL

NATURAL DYES ͵AN OVER VIEW

ducing different colors like red, yellow, blue, black, brown and a combina on of these. Almost all parts of the plants like root, bark, leaf, fruit, wood, seed and flower etc. produce dyes. It is interes ng to note that over2000 pigments are synthesized by various parts of plants, of which only about 150 have been commercially exploited. Nearly 450 taxa are known to yield dyes in India alone, of which 50 are considered to be the most important; ten of these are from roots, four from barks, five from leaves, seven from flowers, seven from fruits, three from seeds, eight from wood and three from gums and resins. (Siva R. 2007).

es have been reserved. This actually started when people throughout the world in general and west in par cular preferred pure co on clothes and dress material in place of clothes made from synthe c yarn. Worldwide growing consciousness for use of eco-friendly products in daily life has generated renewed interest of consumers towards use of tex les from natural fibers dyed with eco-friendly natural dyes. However, all the natural dyes are not essen ally non-toxic, though most of them are proved to be non-toxic and eco-friendly. (EM Dedhia 1998). Besides eco-friendliness, natural dyes have many more technical advantages, including their uncommon and soothing shades. The ancient art of natural dyeing was nearly lost when synthe c dyes were introduced to the global market. Natural dyes are being received with the increase of environmental awareness. Eco-friendly natural dyes are non-hazardous and non-toxic, hundred percent safe for the people and the environment, these exci ng eco-friendly natural dyes with the ease and inter-mixable and provides all the color possibili es of natural dyes with the ease and convenience of chemical dyes without the hazardous.(17) (18)(19)

The increasing market demand for dyes and the dwindling number of dye-yielding plants forced the emergence of synthe c dyes like aniline and coal-tar, which threatened total replacement of natural dyes. Even today, some dyes con nue to be derived from natural sources, for exampledyes for lips ck are s ll obtained from Bixa Orellana L. and Lithospermum erthrorhizon sieb and Zucc and those for eye shadow from Indigo.(18)

4.2 Nƒãçك½ —ù›Ý ʐヮě— ¥ÙÊà ƒÄ®Ãƒ½Ý: Cochineal is a brilliant red dye produced from insects living on cactus plants. The proper es of the cochineal bug were discovered by pre-columbian Indians, who dried the female insects under the sun, and then ground the dried bodies to produce a rich red powder. When mixed with water, the powder produced a deep, vibrant red color. Cochineal is s ll harvested today on the Canary Islands. In fact, most cherries today have a bright red appearance through the ar ficial color ‘carmine’ which is obtained from the cochineal insect.

The so-called ‘green’ tex les have become elite products in the developed world, with the organic co on industry as a major leader in the process. However, more and more dyeing and tannery units are being forced to stop their ac vi es, due to their pollu ng produc on process. The colors of natural concentrates on that aspects of vegetable dyeing which is environmentally friendly for instance, the water coming from the dyeing is first before being returned to nature-treated via an effluent treatment and plant moreover, the unit uses a fermenta on process which is the most environmentally sound process for Indigo dyeing. It consumes less water than other Indigo dyeing methods: No fixing agents are required and the process doesn’t use hydrosulphite.

4.3 Bù-ÖÙʗç‘ãÝ (›Ý֛‘®ƒ½½ù ½ƒ‘ —ù›): The lac industry gives lac dye as a by-product, which is extracted from the effluent similarly, from Cassia Tora, used in gum manufacturing; a brown dye is obtained as a by-product.

By reviewing this method, the colors of nature shows that environmentally friendly Indigo dyeing for industrial purposes (Medium bulk) is possible.

4.4 T®ÝÝç› ÊÙ ‘›½½ ‘ç½ãçٛ ù DNA ãكÄÝ¥›ÙÝ ®Ê-

㛑«Äʽʦù: Certain fungi such as Drechslera and Trichoderma produce anthraquinone deriva ves as secondary metabolites. As anthraquinones are a very important class of dyes, exploi ng the fungi would be advantageous over their chemical synthesis, if gene c modifica ons can be achieved, it is possible to develop fungi that produce subs tuted anthraquinones.

6 C«ƒÙƒ‘ã›Ù®þƒã®ÊÄ / C«›Ã®ÝãÙù Ê¥ Nƒãçك½

Dù›Ý: A dye can be defined as a highly colored substance used to import color to an infinite variety of materials like texles, paper, wood, varnishes, leather, ink, fur, foodstuff, cosme cs, medicine, toothpaste etc. As far as the chemistry of dyes is concerned a dye molecule has two principle chemical groups, viz. chromophores and auxochromes. The chromophore, usually an aroma c ring, is associated with the coloring property, it has unsaturated bonds such as –C=C, =C=O, -C-S, -C-NH, -CH=N-, -N=N- and –N=O, whose number decides the intensity of the color. The auxochrome helps the dye molecule to combine with the substrate, thus impar ng color to the la er.(18)(20)

5. E‘Ê-¥Ù®›Ä—½ù Nƒãçك½ Dù›: In recent years, s lot of awareness and concern has developed over the environmental issues of tex les wet processing. The pollu on control board has become more strict on the implementa on of the pollu on control act. This has brought a lot of environmental pressure on the tex le industry.W Environmental awareness throughout the world now seems to rescue the total ‘Fall’ of natural dyes. Hazards of chemical industries and dyes in par cular have forced environmentalists to think in terms of natural products. Trend of greater uses of synthe c subs tutes of natural substanc-

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7. BÊė®Ä¦ Ê¥ Nƒãçك½ —ù›Ý ó®ã« ăãçك½

¥®›ÙÝ: Natural dyes work best with natural fibers such as cotton, linen, wool, silk, jute, ramie and sisal. Among these

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NATURAL DYES ͵AN OVER VIEW wool takes up dyes most easily followed by co on, linen, silk and then the coarse fibers such as sisal and jute. Nearly all of them require some sort of a mordant. The trick is to choose the right dye from the right source that gives not only beau ful tones, but colorfast shade as well.

TECHNICAL

soluble salts of chromium, aluminum, iron, copper and n. The la er the metallic mordants, are more used than the acid mordants. Mordants improve the fastness of the dye on the fiber such as water, light and perspira on fastness. The choice of mordant is very important as different mordants can change the final color significantly.

The Chemistry of bonding of dyes to fiber is complex. It involves direct bonding, H-bonds and hydro-phobic interacons mordants help binding of dyes to fabric by forming a chemical bridge from dye to fiber, thus improving the staining ability of a dye along with increasing is fastness properes. Mordants form insoluble compounds of the dye within the fiber. The presence of func onal groups in suitable posions in the dye molecule causes its coordina on to the metal ion. Generally, two hydroxyl groups or a hydroxyl group with a carbonyl, nitrose or azo group in adjacent posi ons are responsible for coordina on. The mordant dyes produce a wide range of hues of remarkable resistance to wet treatments, but the shade lack brilliancy.

D®¥¥›Ù›Äã ÄƒÃ›Ý Ê¥ ÃÊٗƒÄãÝ Ê¥ ăãçك½ —ù›Ý ƒÙ› ¦®ò›Ä ƒÝ ¥Ê½½ÊóÝ•

An example is the chromium – alizarin complex. A chromium ion can combine with alizarin by covalency and co-ordinate valency to form the ‘Lake”. Chromium, being trivalent, combines with three molecules of alizarin. The fibers made of proteins, such as wool as silk, retain the dye through hydrogen bonding between the polypep de linkages and the dye. An example of alizarin is given to show the nature of bonding with Nylon-6, which also has pep de linkages.

8. MÊٗƒÄãÝ ¥ÊÙ Nƒãçك½ —ù›Ý A mordant is an element which aids the chemical reacon that takes place between the natural dye and the fiber, so that the dye absorbed. Mordants were o en required to alter the hue and intensity of natural dyes and improve their color fastness. The word ‘mordant’ is derived from the La n word mordent which means to bite. Mordants are the minerals salts added to the fibers to help the dye adhere. Many dyes will adhere to the fibers without mordants but you limit your range of colors and fastness of your eyes. Historically, dyers used everything from a copper or aluminum pot to stale urine to mordant their fibers. Today, we prefer to use more reliable and consistent mordants will use with vary the range of colors get from any one dye stuff.

Iron (Ferrous sulphate): Ferrous sulphate FeSO4 is a greenish powder that dissolves to make a rusty – colored liquid. Iron produces dark, dull colors that are fast. Iron used in excess on wool will weaken the fibers and causes yarns and fabric to wear out prematurely. Aluminum sulphate: Aluminum sulphate Al2 (SO4)3 commonly called alum. Alum is a white powder that is safe for hands and easy to use. Alum produces bright shades and gives rela vely good light fastness. It is used in excess, alum will make wool feel s ckly. If an aluminum pan is used it will contribute to the brightness of the color, but will not guarantee the color fastness. Potassium dichromate: Bright orange crystals known as potassium dichromate make a bright orange solu on. Exposed to light, this solu on becomes unstable, so it should be kept with a lid on the container and not exposed to light. Chrome gives good bright colors that are very fast and gives wools a so texture. Potassium dichromate K2Cr2O7 is a common inorganic chemical reagent, most commonly used as oxidizing agent in various laboratory and industrial applica ons. As with all hexavalent chromium compounds, it is poten ally harmful to health and must be handled and disposed of appropriately. It is a crystalline ionic solid with a very bright, red-orange color. Copper sulphate: Use copper sulphate CuSO4, a beau ful blue color when dissolved in water. Copper darkness colors and gives a greenish cast. It provides good color-fastness and is not as hard on fibers as iron. A solid copper pot (if affordable) will make an excellent copper

mordant.CÊđ½çÝ®ÊÄThe world society of colourist emphasizes their role of work to popularize the use of eco-friendly and natural dyeing procedures. They want to save our environment from disastrous and harmful effect of toxic chemical dyes and other ingredients. Many of the research ins tutes and agriculture universi es are involved for minimizing the level of chemicals . Which is con nuously flowing in the different water storing sources and pollu ng to the drinking water.Processing waste from the dye houses can also be minimized with op mizing the process parameters.In place of using the hazardous and toxic chemicals, use of enzyma c and natural treatments should be marke sed and papularised for the world safety.

There are many op ons for mordan ng fibers. The most frequently and easily used are alum or n mordants. Even these less toxic mordants should be kept sealed and in a locked place away from children and pets. Reserve some of fibers to dye without the addi on of the mordant. After-baths with n, vinegar, or baking soda may also be desirable to achieve a broader degree of colors. An a er bath is done a er the fibers are rinsed. Containers other than glass or stainless steel may also be used and the metals from which they are made may be employed to exert an influence on the ul mate color of the dye in the form of a mordant. Mordants are substances of organic or inorganic origin which combine with the coloring ma er and are used to fix the same in the produc on of color. For the purpose of this class, such materials as oils and sulfonated oils, soaps, fats and higher acids, are not generally considered as mordants, but as coming within the sope of “assistants” in dyeing. The mordant substances include such acids as tannic acid, gall nuts, bark extracts, oleic and stearic acids, and Turkey red oil and metallic substances such as various combina ons or

10 REFERENCE 1. Pant Suman(April 1999) Natural Dyeing of Wool. The Indian Texle Journal, pp 50-55 2. Patel B. H., AgrawaL B.J.and Patel H.M.(January 2003) Novel padding techniques for dyeing babool dyeing on co on , Colorage pp 21-26. 3. Radhika D. and Jacob M (April 1999) Dye from jatropha seed. The

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TECHNICAL

NATURAL DYES ͵AN OVER VIEW approach”. The Indian Tex le Journal, January 2007, pp 30-35 12. Cha opadhyay D P, Effect of mordants and mordan ng techniques on Dyeing of jute and co on with Adula, manmade Text India, 1997, 40(9),361-369. 13. Nimkar u and bhajekar R, Ecological requirements for tex le industry , colour age (Suppl.) 2006,43(4),135-142 14. Sachan K and Kapoor V P,op miza on of extrac on and dyeing condi ons for tradi onal turmeric dye, Indian J Trad knowledge 2007, 6(2),270-278. 15. The chemistry of synthe c dyes and pigments by H A Lubs. 16. www.naturalpigments.com 17. Paul R., Jayesh MV and Naik SR, classifica on, Extrac on and fastness proper es, Text Dyer Print, 1996,31(6),16-24 18. www.paradisefibers.net 19. Chemistry of dyes and principles of Dyeing ( 2nd revised edi on 1983) pp 610. 20. Neelam Pruthi , Geeta D Chawla and Saroj Yadav. Dyeing of silk with barberry bark dye using mordant combina on, Department of Clothing and Tex le, College of home science, Hissar, Haryana, India. Natural product radiance, vol. 7(1),2008, pp 40-44. 21. Sharma A, Bansal A and Sood A, Applica on of apricot leaf dye on wool and co on yarns using combina on of mordants, Text India programmes, July 2005, pp 19-20.

Indian Tex le Journal pp30-35. 4. Singh Jeet ,S.S. Yadav and Gaba G. (January 2003) . Effect of mordan ng method on dye Absorp on of Natural Dye extracted from reinwardita flowers and neem leaves on wool , Colorage, pp27-30. 5. Sharma Neetu and Jahan Shahnaz(January 2003) Dyeing wool by combina on of Natural Dyes obtained from Onian Skin and kilmora roots , Colorage ,pp 43-44. 6. Verma Chhaya and Mrs. Venkatachalam Vijaylaxmi (August 2002) . Effect of Mordants on Mango bark dye for dyeing of Jute , co on union fabric , Colorage pp 49-54. 7. Gulrajani M.L and Rustogi D. and Gupta P. ”Applica on of lac dye on ca onised co on“. “Conven on on natural dyes”. Department of Tex le Technology IIT DELHI 1999. 8. Gupta d, Dyeing with natural dyes- Theory and prac ce , In Natural dyes , Conven on proceedings by D.Gupta and M L Gulrajani (Eds), Department of Tex le Technology, IIT Delhi, 17-18 December 2001. 9. Webster’s, New world, college dic onary 4th edi on by Michael Agnes, Editor in chief. pp 86 and pp799. 10. V P Kapoor, K Ka yar, P Pushpagandan and N Singh, Development of natural dye based Sindoor. Na onal Botanical Research Ins tute, Lucknow (u.p) India. Amity Ins tue for Herbal and Biotech Development, Thycand, Thiruvananthapuram, Kerala, India. 11. Lokhande H.T. and Naik Sandeep R. “Ban on dyes and ecological

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SHILP KATHAON 2014

The fashion department at Symbiosis Ins tute of Design put up its annualCra Sustenance ini a ve tled Shilp Kathaon 26 - 27 September, 2014. The ins tu onal objec ve of this event is to conserve and bring about a product diversifica on of heritage Indian cra s. Keeping in mind that India has such a rich cra culture spanning all areas of cra s such as wood, metal, tex le, leather and many more, the scope of this ini a ve was extended to include both tex le and non-tex le cra s of India. The cra s covered this year are Gujarat – Roghan painting, Rajasthan - Lehariya, U arakhand – Ne le Cra , Karnataka - Kasu , U ar Pradesh- Chikankari, Karnataka – Kinnal toys, Orissa ¬– Soara pain ngs and Ganjappa cards, Andhra Pradesh – Cherial pain ng and Rajasthan – Molela les. The students had been to these different states, met the cra smen and got acquainted with the cra s. This research was documented and then applied to conceptualize and develop products. Garments / products were designed and developed by the students of Fashion Design and Fashion Communica on worked on styling, brand iden ty and conceptualiza on of the exhibi on. An exhibi on of the works of the students displaying garments as well as products developed using these cra s was put up. They also invited ar sans from these places to par cipate in this exhibi on thus providing them an opportunity to increase awareness of their cra s as well as to increase their visibility. This year they also hosted a Cra Film Fes val in collabora on with ‘Aadhar – Heritage Film Fes val’, Ahmedabad. Ms Judy Frater, founder director of somaya kala Vidya, graced this event as the chief guest.

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HOW TO MAKE THE ‘RIGHT’ DISPOSABLE HYGIENE PRODUCT? TECHNICAL SYMPOSIUM Addressing the ongoing demand for the disposable hygiene products namely feminine hygiene products, baby diapers, adult incon nence products, nappy pads, etc., BCH successfully conducted a technical symposium - How to Make the ‘Right’ Disposable Hygiene Product? on the 10th of September 2014 at Leela Palace hotel in Chankyapuri, New Delhi. BCH along with a consor um of interna onal companies which mainly cons tuted either machine manufacturers or raw material suppliers such as Avery Dennison, Curt G. Joa, Fibertex Personal Care, Fulflex, Henkel, Op ma, Osprey and Sandvik, presented to India’s business community the right way forward. At a me when the Indian manufacturer is ready to grab every opportunity to feed a growing demand, it becomes quintessen al to know about advanced technologies and important prerequisites for decision making which were very well talked aloud openly during the presenta ons.

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evolve in the coming mes. One major highlight of the event was the award ceremony. Stalwarts of this Industry in India were felicitated with a hear elt applause during the event. The awards were presented by eminent personali es from this industry. Mr. Samir Gupta, Managing Director of BCH personally addressed the awardees for their outstanding performance and significant contribu on to this dynamic absorbent hygiene industry of India. The four awards announced were as follows: 1. Social Responsibility – Best Prac ces – This award went to Bella Premier Happy Hygiene Care Pvt. Ltd. and was received by Ms. Agnieszka Wronkowska, Sales & Marke ng Director for India. 2. Best Indian Private Label Ini a ve – This award went to Nobel Hygiene Ltd. and was received by Mr. Kamal Johari, Managing Director. 3. Market Leaders in Quality – This award went to Procter & Gamble Hygiene & Health Care Limited and was received by Mr. Amaranna Angadi , Manager – Producon. 4. Market Evolu on through Product Differen a on and Innova ve Marke ng Strategies – This award went to Unicharm India Pvt. Ltd. and was received by Mr. Yukihiro Kimura, Managing Director. The tabletop exhibi on which was held in a separate hall offered a unique business opportunity for par cipants to see displays of the talked about products and offerings and casually network amongst the gathering. For further strengthening of decisions and to generate a posi ve feeling for exis ng and new investments in this field, the breaks and the cocktail evening offered a great opportunity for one to one knowledge dissemina on in a relaxed atmosphere .

What was par cularly interes ng in this symposium was the impressive presence of more than 100 a endees which comprised of manufacturers (convertors) of feminine hygiene products, baby diapers & adult incon nence products as well as the new and aspiring entrants, who were eager to hear about the latest developments in this sector and understand the ‘wrongs’ and the ‘rights’ that may take place. To name a few, there was representa on from Procter & Gamble, SCA, Unicharm, Nobel Hygiene, Emami, HLL Lifecare and many more noteworthy established companies of India. Further highlights of this event included the much talked about award ceremony, the panel discussion on ‘2020 and beyond’ and the cocktail evening which offered a great opportunity to network in a relaxed atmosphere.

As the manufacturing and sale of these products is majorly being influenced in the country, the inquisi veness of the Indian businesses to explore this growing segment is evident from the developments that have taken place in the last few years. The idea of forging partnerships was launched to a new industry through the earlier symposiums organized by BCH on disposable hygiene products in 2006 & 2008 and with the outcome of this symposium BCH plans to feed the need of this industry through many more ini a ves in the coming years.

The symposium ended on a very visionary note with a panel discussion amongst the dis nguished speakers and the audience. The emphasis was to discuss the future of the disposable hygiene industry of India and its upcoming future trends. All were enthusias c enough to wear their thinking caps and discuss the future of this exci ng industry in India from 2020 and beyond. The most discussed issue was how the Indian industry will address the sustainability factor in the near future and all the specula ve ideas were put forward regarding how the products and processes would

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PRODUCT RANGE IMPRESSES BUYERS AT YARNEX AND TEXINDIA ager, Trident Group, Ludhiana.

The recently concluded twin shows Yarnex- India Interna onal Yarn Exhibi on and TexIndia- Tex le Sourcing Fair at Tirupur, set new records this year with a record 3,424 visitors not only from even the remotest tex le manufacturing and trade hubs of India, but also from countries as diverse as Brazil, China, France, Germany, Hong Kong, Japan, Maurius, Morocco, Nigeria, Peru, Saudi Arabia, South Africa, Sri Lanka, Thailand, United Kingdom, United States of America, amongst others. This marked a 25 percent increase compared to the previous edi on. On the exhibitors’ side, nearly 115 suppliers from all over the country took part, besides a special overseas con ngent from Italy, UK, Hong Kong and China displaying their latest and innova ve products. “The increase in both exhibitor and visitor figures from all across the country and the world confirms that Yarnex and TexIndia have grown out of the regional context and these shows are the best pla orm to take advantage of the growing poten al in this region,” said Mr P. Krishnamurthy, CEO and Execu ve Director, S S Tex le Media Pvt Ltd, Bangalore, organizers of these events. Exhibitors expressed immense sa sfac on with the range of buyers who were present, a vast majority of them decision makers. “We par cipated at Yarnex five years ago; our customer base then was just two or three. Now it has grown to 120. Our sales have gone up from 10 – 15 tons a year to 50 tons now. Thanks to Yarnex. This is a great pla orm where manufacturers, dealers and buyers can sit together and take forward developing new products as a challenge. We got a lot of inquiries at this show with many for exports. I feel we are going to open a new line of business i.e. exports because of this show,” said an elated Mr Vipul Rastogi, Technical Director, Flora Dyeing House (P) Ltd, New Delhi. “We have been a end-

For Maurizio Colzani, Export Sales, Linificio E CanapificioNazionale S.R.L, Italy, is a newcomer to India and was quite sa sfied with the visitors who came to his stall. “We are new in the Indian market having come here only a year ago. We produce linen yarn and we thought we’d par cipate in Yarnex to get in touch with the local companies. It has improved our penentra on and contacts in the new market mainly with local kni ers from in and around Tirupur, as well as other parts of India. Even manufacturers of furnishings and home tex les, besides apparel manufacturers visited our stall. India is a poten ally growing market as far as linen yarn is concerned and we look forward to developing it and establishing a presence here through exhibi ons like Yarnex.” Mr Michael Rodriques, General Manager (Fabric), Colorsburg (Div. of Shakthi Kni ng Ltd.), Tirupur: “The show has been really be er this me. Lots of footfalls and all good quality buyers. In fact, my visitors’ book is already full. There were buying houses and garment manufacturers and also interna onal buyers from Mauri us and France as well. We have already lined up appointments over the week with some of the poten al buyers we met at this show.” “The show is good with worthy buyers and poten al customers visi ng our stall,” said Mr Rajesh Mathur, Director, Sri Sri Interna onal, Ludhiana. “We could meet over 200 new clients and many showed keen interest to work with us. They said, earlier, they would have to source these kinds of products from China and now were happy to discover a new source here in India itself.” “Before coming to Tirupur, I thought this was a market for economically priced products,” said MrAlok Raj, Director, Elegant Bu ons (P) Ltd, New Delhi. “But that perspecve has changed a er coming to this show. There was a lot of interest in the kinds of shell bu ons we made. We even got leads from places like Bangalore and Chennai. It’s been great show for us with around 600 buyers having visited our stall.” Besides the exhibitors, buyers too were sa sfied, especially with the quality of vendors and the product range on offer. “The show is keeping in with the latest trends,” said Mr Vijay Joshi, Manager, Karthik Tex les, Ichalkaranji. “The trend is to-

ing this show the last four years and at each show we are able to capture more customers. The show also gives us an opportunity to meet buyers and understand their requirements. In turn, they also learn about our new launches and what we have to offer. We are here with our top management in full force. When the senior management is present, it makes it easier to take the leads forward. We could meet around 300 buyers at this show, and even if we are able to do business with just 10 percent of them, it would be great. We hope to be here at Yarnex in a bigger way next year!, said MrHardikSemlani, Regional Sales Man-

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PRODUCT RANGE IMPRESSES BUYERS AT YARNEX AND TEXINDIA wards value addi on and this will stay on at least for the next five years. I met a couple of new exhibitors especially for the fancy yarn range we were looking for.” Mr G. Kishore, Manager, Sky Trading Corpora on, Chennai, said: “Informa on I had no access to, I got it here. The products on display helped me understand what is best suited for my kind of products. I even found a par cular machinery I was looking for at Yarnex, something which I could not find elsewhere!” “A really exci ng show,” Ms Aurelia Esiri, Owner, Retta-Dote Ltd, South Africa said about TexIndia. “We gained a lot of knowledge about the fabrics available here. We were looking for business contacts and we did find them here. I have taken swatches from them and will be contac ng soon with a hope of doing business with these companies in India.” Mr Prabhu Damodharan, Director, FuturGen, Tirupur noted: “We are a buying house represen ng companies in Bangladesh, Hong Kong, Canada, USA, Poland, Spain, etc. I got a good idea about the new trends in fabrics at this show. There were mul ple op ons available and there were no

price contradic ons. It is quite an impressive show. Keep it up, it’s awesome!” The ambience, the professionalism and the wide range of new developments like the new varie es of mélange yarn, fancy yarn, metal yarn, eco-friendly yarn, fibers from Lycra and Reliance Industries, fleece fabrics, ne ed fabrics, etc. at the twin shows were well appreciated. Yarnex and TexIndiawas inaugurated by PadmashreeDr A. Sakthivel, President, Tirupur Exporters’ Associa on along with other dignitaries. He said: Iam quite impressed with the kind of new developments Tirupur is being exposed to with shows like Yarnex and TexIndia. It is the need of the hour for Tirupur to upgrade.” He made special men on of the stainless steel yarn and its func ons manufactured in China on display at the show, as also about the new varie es of fancy, metallic and linen yarn. The three-day event ran through September 9 - 11 at the India Knit Fair Complex in Tirupur.

GLOBAL GEOSYNTHETICS SUMMIT BY CII Asia is the future of Geosynthe cs: Dr George Koerner. • •

6 billion USD global market for Geosynthe cs Largely consump on at US and Europe, however with its current 16% market share, Asia will be the future. Confedera on of Indian Industry, CII jointly with Indian Technical Tex le Associa on, ITTA and supported by Office of Tex le Commissioner, Ministry of Tex les, Government of India & iNDEXTb, Government of Gujarat has organized Global Geosynthe cs Summit towards ‘Enhancing the applica on of Geosynthe cs in Infrastructure Sector’. Mr Kunjal Patel, Chairman, CII Gujarat State Council & Vice-Chairman & Managing Director, Voltamp Transformers Limited, delivered the welcome address and gave a broad overview of Geosynthe cs in the area of Infrastructure. He acknowledged the support of Government of Gujarat for CII to set up of Gujarat Knowledge Applica on & Facilita on Centre, GKAFCand highlighted its long term approach in enhancing the applica on of Geosynthe cs. He welcomed the dis nguished speakers from USA, Philippines & United Kingdom and Indian experts from various organiza ons and par cipants fromvarious Ministries and Government departments from central and state.

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Also for realizing the benefits, he shared the below as the key parameters: • • • • • •

good design, quality materials, tes ng and cer fica on, installa on, quality assurance, performance test prior to commissioning There are huge ongoing efforts by agencies such as GSI, GRI, ASTM, ISO, BAM and US-EPA, etc. towards standards and regula ons.

A CII GKAFC- ITTA report on Geosynthe cs has been released, which would serve as a ready reckoner for all the stakeholders. Dr George Koerner, Director, TheGeosynthe c Ins tute, USA highlighted the global market scenario of Geosynthetics. He advised that for an accelerated adop on of Geosynthe cs – it is important to have • • •

generic specifica ons for both Centre and State, packaged technology (design, build and supply) target distributors and partnership with large ins tuons. 49

L-R: Dr Chandan Cha erjee, Advisor Project & Technology, iNDEXTb, Government of Gujarat; Dr George Koerner, Director, The Geosynthe cs Ins tute, USA; Mr Kamal Dayani, IAS,TransportCommissioner, Government of Gujarat; Mr Kunjal Patel,Chairman - CII Gujarat State Council &Vice Chairman & Managing Director, Voltamp Transformers Limited and Mr K S Murthy, Director & Head, Gujarat Knowledge Applica on & Facilita on Centre. TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | OCT - DEC 2014 www.textilevaluechain.com


Dyeing Technology at its Best „

High Quality Colouring



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Environmentally Friendly Process



Fully automated H.T.H.P. Dyeing Machines STANDARD FEATURES

‡ Eco-friendly Airpad system Reduces consumption of water, steam, electricity and chemicals

‡ Variable Frequency Drive Reduces power peaks, allows automatic stepless speed control

‡ Adjustable Liquor Ratio Enables selection of minimum MLR for full/partial load during dyeing and ultra low MLR for subsequent washing

‡ Safety Systems Temperature and pressure interlock Auto pressure control valve Mechanical pre-set pressure safety valve Main pump protection against dry run Interlocking of ‘Heating ON’ / main pump motor

DALAL ENGINEERING PVT LTD

Website : www.dalalengineering.com REGISTERED OFFICE: 36/37 Jolly Maker Chambers II, Nariman Point, Mumbai 400 021 Tel. 91 22 2202 4046, 2285 0516 Fax. 91 22 2202 9278 Email : deplmum@vsnl.com WORKS: Kavesar, Thane-Ghodbunder Road Thane 400 615, Maharashtra, India Tel. 91 22 2597 6201-04 Fax. 91 22 2597 6207 51 Email: dalalfac@vsnl.com

ADDITIONAL FEATURES ‡ Pressure extraction system for better and faster rinsing cycle ‡ Differential pressure controller for adjusting pump speed automatically ‡ pH monitoring system ‡ Conductivity meter for continuous measuring / controlling TDS ‡ Dye Kitchen Equipment ‡ ChoiceRIVWHDPWKHUPLFÁXLGKHDWLQJ ‡ Coupling of two or more machines ‡ Imported micro-controller that can be linked to a central management system

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SAGAR GROUP OF ENTERPRISES

Website : www.sagar-group.com Ahmedabad: Tel 91 79 25625822-28 Email: exports@sagar-group.com Coimbatore: Tel. 91 422 4393595,3242595 Email: coimbatore@sagar-group.com Delhi: Tel: 91 120 4133 771-772 Email: delhi@sagar-group.com Ludhiana: Tel: 91 93169 34758 Email: delhi@sagar-group.com

TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | OCT - DEC 2014 Surat: Tel: 91 9328257919 www.textilevaluechain.com Email: alpesh@sagar-group.com


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ITMACH INDIA COMPLIMENTS “MAKE IN INDIA” CAMPAIGN sectors: • • •

En re value chain of synthe cs and co on Value added and speciality fabrics Fabric processing set-ups for all kind of natural and synthe c tex les • Technical tex les • Apparel • Retail Recognising the immense investment and growth poten al of the Indian tex le and apparel industry, top technology suppliers have confirmed par cipa on in ITMACH India, the first interna onal tex le machinery exhibi on of Gujarat, supported by the Government of Gujarat.

ITMACH India, India’s much awaited tex le technology show, is a most appropriately med event, from December 10-13, 2014, in Ahmedabad, Gujarat, as the Indian economy is finally poised to take off. GDP growth in the April-June quarter is the highest in the last nine quarters. Western markets, which account for a dominant share of India’s tex le and clothing exports are picking up too. The momentum is expected to con nue. ITMACH India is supported by the Govt. of Gujarat as “Principal Suppor ng State Govt.”, Industrial Extension Bureau (iNDEXTb) of Gujarat and leading trade Associa ons like Confedera on of Indian Tex le Industry (CITI), PDEXCIL, SRTEPC as well as trade Medias. Considering the size and response, ITMACH India is conferred by the status of pre-summit event to Vibrant Gujarat 2015 to s mulate investments in Gujarat.

Over 250 exhibitors are expected to interact with decision makers of the tex le and clothing industry from all across the country, and also from other tex le manufacturing countries. Over 30,000 visitors are expected to visit ITMACH India.

The government’s recently launched “Make In India” campaign, aimed at strengthening the manufacturing sector, has iden fied tex les and clothing as one of the focus sectors for its huge employment genera on poten al. At this juncture, ITMACH India exhibi on will compliment the efforts under “Make in India” campaign.

InternaƟonal Conference on `India – OpportuniƟes for Global Investment in TexƟles’ Tex le Excellence, in associa on with Diagonal Consulting which is spearheaded by Dr P R Roy, will organise a 3-day interna onal conference on `India - Opportuni es for Global Investment in Tex les’, from December 10-12, 2014, at Gandhinagar, Gujarat.

To briefly summarise the targets for the next three years: • • • • •

The domes c tex le and apparel industry in India is es mated to reach US$ 100 billion by 2016-17 from US$ 67 billion in 2013-14 Exports of tex les and apparel from India are es mated to increase to US$ 65 billion by 2016-17 from US$ 40 billion in 2013-14 Total fabric produc on in India is es mated to grow to 112 billion square metres by 2016-17 from 64 billion square metres in 2013-14 India’s fibre produc on is es mated to reach 10 million tonnes in 2016-17 from 7 million tonnes in 2013-14. By 2017, the country is expected to have 82 tex le parks For these targets to be achieved, the industry is currently in investment mode. Investments are especially expected in the following

The conference, also supported by the Government of Gujarat and iNDEXTb, will be inaugurated by the Hon. Minister of Industries, Saurabh bhai Patel. Leading stalwarts from the government and the Indian tex le and clothing industry will talk about investment opportuni es in the Indian industry. Top industry experts from China will deliberate on Outlook of Chinese Investment in Tex les. Global raw material scenario with special emphasis on co on and man-made fibres will be discussed and deliberated by leading experts from the industry. Investment bankers and financial analysts will share their views with the industry. Product mix of significance for Indian tex les like shirtings, denims and home tex les will also be addressed during the event.

COTTON USA SEMINAR SESSION 2014 “CÊããÊÄ: AÄ EĦ®Ä› Ê¥ GÙÊóã« ¥ÊÙ T«› Iė®ƒÄ T›ø㮽› IėçÝãÙù”

tribu ng towards this robust growth , be it Co on Fibre, Co on Yarn , Co on Tex les or Apparel , all the Sectors have shown an impressive growth. In order to further this growth story, Co on Council Interna onal is organising the COTTON USA Seminar Session on 5 th September at ITC Windsor Bangalore.

Co on Council Interna onal has organized an Invitaon only Seminar on September 5 at ITC Windsor, Bengaluru which had offered useful insights on the present scenario of “Co on” and Co on Tex le Industry in India. The prominent industry experts and decision makers from Co on Texle Industry had debated to create a road map how Co on can further propel the growth in Indian Tex le Industry.

The Seminar was tailored specifically for top decision makers in the Indian Co on Tex le Industry and features panel discussions and presenta ons on the outlook for cotton and co on tex le industry.

In 2014, India emerged as a world’s second largest tex le exporter, with tex les and clothing exports worth US$40.2bn, India now commands more than 5% share in the global tex le and clothing trade.

COTTON USA aims for absolute purity and brings consistently excellent quality and responsibility to the world of co on. For the consumer, that means a product with the COTTON USA brand mark is clean, safe and the product is

Co on has played an extremely important role in conTEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | OCT - DEC 2014 www.textilevaluechain.com

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COTTON USA SEMINAR SESSION 2014 a first-class, high-value material produced in an environmentally responsible manner. Excellent quality comes from persistence and the latest technology that US Co on farmers use to bring out the best in nature. COTTON USA works with the best manufacturers in the world to make sure that the consumer gets a quality product with a great brand. Mr. David Collins, Senior Advisor Co on Council Interna onal would present the economic outlook on co on at the session.

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of Brand values. Mr Thomas Gladtke, Director Tex le and Apparel sales, Applied DNA Sciences Lab would present the “Fiber Typingtechnology” at the seminar session. India holds a leadership posi on when it comes to spinning fine yarn counts, Indian Spinners have contributed more than US$4.8bn to Indian Tex le exports in Financial Year 2013-14. Indian spinners are the major consumers of ELS Co on and holds high regards globally when it comes to spinning finer yarn counts. Indian Spinners have to con nually maintain the leadership posi on for which they need a consistent supply of good quality ELS Co on.

Responsibility and ever-greater sustainability are important to today’s consumers. Co on has an advantage in that it is a natural product. Farmers work in an environmentally responsible manner at every step of the process. Every single bale of U.S. co on that is shipped all around the world can be traced all the way back to its origin.

This Panel discussion among the elite user fraternity would try to address the current issues in regard to the availability and usage of ELS Co on.

Finally, at the end of its use, our co on is renewable, recyclable, and biodegradable.

The current co on Tex les supply chain is witnessing an unprecedented shi s due to ever- increasing produc on costs, rapidly changing consumer behaviour and increasing level of social and environmental awareness. This demands a stronger and sustainable partnerships among all the stake holders of the supply chain. The Panel discussion on Creating Successful partnerships in the Tex le Supply Chain” at COTTON USA Seminar session will bring together experts from each segment of the supply chain to discuss how the successful partnerships can be formed among the upstream and downstream players to propel the growth in Tex les and Clothing sector.

COTTON LEADS reflects the U.S. industry’s commitment to responsible co on produc on. COTTON LEADS is built on the five core principles, “Commitment, Recogni on, Understanding, Belief and Confidence” and a regulatory infrastructure that insures we can meet these principles. These principles are consistent with sustainability and use of best prac ces/traceability in the supply chain so that co on users, consumers, brands, and retailers can have the confidence and knowledge that their raw material is responsibly produced and iden fied. In 2014, American Image Awards honoured Supima as the premium fibre brand of the Year, Mr Marc Lewkowitz, Execu ve Vice president, Supima would share his thoughts on the responsible produc on and adop ng the right manufacturing prac ces.

According to the latest global lifestyle monitor study conducted by Co on Incorporated, “Co on meets Consumer Expecta ons”, as more than 8 in 10 shoppers in India describe co on as good quality. Dr K Selvaraj, Secretary General, The Southern India Mills Associa on will address the Importance of Co on for Indian Tex le Industry.

Tex le and Apparel products which are produced using premium Extra Long Staple co on are recognized by retailers and consumers as premium quality products. These products command premium over other products due to higher durability owing to the quality and performance of the premium co on fibre used to develop them.It becomes utmost important to secure the supply chain for protec on

New channels like Ecommerce are gaining momentum and Co on products should find the appropriate channels to reach its consumers. Mr Ashish Jhalani, founder member E-tailing India would present the opportunity in the apparel retail in the online medium.

CITI CONFERENCE

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CITI (Confedera on of Indian Tex le Industry ) arranged 2 days conference at 22nd & 23rd September, 2014 at Wes n Hotel, Goregaon, Mumbai. Welcome address given by Mr. Prem Malik, Chairman of CITI He welcomed Joint Secretary, Shri Sujit Gula , Tex le Commissioner Smt Kiran Soni Gupta, Shri B K Patodia, Past Chairman, CITI, Dr. P.Ambalagan, Joint CEO, MIDC, otherspeakers and sponsors of this event, dis nguished guests, esteemed industry colleagues, representa ves of the media. There is various session & Panel discussion about topic like Fibers, Global Trade, Technology & Innova on, Emerging Trends in Trade, Retailing & Fashion. Eminent speakers & leaders presented paper and part of discussion. Q & A session enthralled delegates and concluded 2 days conference in good posi ve note. More details you can view from : h p://www.ci india.com/atexcon/8th-atexcon-presentaon.html 53

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Gujarat is Calling... Discover Markets, Find New Customers Come to Gujarat, the state that is driving the growth of Indian Textile Industry. Meet the Industrialists, New Investors & Customers. Discuss business & network. Discover the investment trends, developments and market opportunities.

INDIA INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE MACHINERY & ACCESSORIES EXHIBITION 10-13, December 2014 Ahmedabad

VENUE: The Exhibition Centre Helipad Ground, Sector 17, Gandhinagar, Ahmedabad, Gujarat, India

“India”

www.ITMACH.com

10 - 12 December 2014

Opportunities for Global Investment in Textiles

VENUE: Town Hall, Sector 17 Gandhinagar, Ahmedabad, Gujarat, India For Sponsorship & Advertisement, Contact: Diagonal Consulting (India) Nirav Shah: Cell: +91 9909904179 Email: nirav.dci@gmail.com

ITMACH India SPACE BOOKING : Arvind Semlani : Cell: +91 9833977743, Email: info@itmach.com, arvind@textileexcellence.com Farid K S : Cell: +91 9869185102, Email: farid@textileexcellence.com Shuchi Kulshrestha : Cell: +91 7840060123, shuchi@textileexcellence.com ITMACH India: A Pre-Summit Event To Principal Supporting State Govt.:

Supporting Partners:

Media Partners:

Knowledge Partners:

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Technical Textile &

Nonwoven Excellence


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AGM SPEECH

TEXPROCIL SHRI MANIKAM RAMASWAMI, CHAIRMAN

L›ò›Ùƒ¦®Ä¦ ‘ÊÃ֛ã®ã®ò›Ä›ÝÝ TEXPROCIL - the mother of all EPCs and the dedicated efforts put in by the leaders of our council in the ini al years inspired the government to create several sector specific EPCs.

Mere manufacturing compe veness cannot by itself translate into growing interna onal trade. Rela ve cost of raw material, level playing field in tariff barriers are extremely important for compe veness to translate into interna onal trade. Co on surplus country should theore cally have lower co on costs, but the reality is the opposite. We need to find solu ons together. While India has signed FTAs with developing na ons all of whom are tex le exporters themselves, with important developed world and China who are tex le importers, we face rela vely much higher tariff barriers than our immediate compe tors. Although it is not an export promo on ac vity, EPCs have to get increasingly involved in related areas such as:-

Even many of the tex le EPCs were born out of TEXPROCIL. TEXPROCIL has been constantly reinven ng itself during the last 60 years to stay relevant and serve its membership objec vely. From promo ng tex le exports by crea ng the necessary posi ve image for Indian tex les, crea ng the necessary framework for building trust to managing quotas to handling post quota blues of an dumping du es to crea ng markets for the rapidly expanding compe ve tex le industry.

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India today needs crores of new jobs to be created for unskilled and uneducated persons across India in er ¾ centers. There is no be er industry which can provide such large scale employment than ours with least cost to the government. Our domes c market cannot grow to absorb all the produc on, therefore tex le exports is crucial to crea on of the much needed crores of new jobs. TEXPROCIL @ 60 has therefore the sacred duty of providing inclusive growth through crea on of gainful employment in Indian tex le through rapid expansion of overseas markets for our tex le products.

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UÄ®¥®›— T›ø㮽› ®Ä—çÝãÙù : Tex le industry is a long value chain, and has to work as a harmonious integrated industry to deliver. We need ground rules with fairness to create harmony. TEXPROCIL represent the en re value chain and has evolved certain ground rules to ensure harmony with fairness acrossthe value chain like.

T«› ù›ƒÙ ¦Êě ù Our China focus has yielded excellent results, except during periods when Indian co on prices were much higher than interna onal prices. We enjoyed a buoyant market for our yarns and will certainly have it once again when our co on prices drop to interna onal prices. Our innova ve strategy to open the doors into Vietnam is beginning to give us results. Our approach was highly appreciated not only by our Ministry and Consulate but even by the Vietnamese trade department. The huge response on the last day, with over 50 serious customers represen ng over 15% of the Vietnamese garmen ng industry visi ng us during the BSM, a huge contrast from our previous BSMs where we received a handful of small buyers is evidence enough. Our efforts to get our government to seek favorable access to China for our Fabrics and Home tex les is gaining trac on. Our Commerce Minister took up the issue most effec vely during her recent visit to China. We have also been successful in ge ng our ED / Chairman included in the delega on as a member. Ge ng favorable access into China will be a game changer and help us steeply increase our exports. Our recent bold ar cula on of the need to follow the stated policy on incen ves cannot be ignored by the policy makers. If all EPCs consistently follow it up, I am extremely confident that our demand cannot be ignored, when we get what we truly deserve, it will help us perform to our poten al and exceed our set targets comfortably. Our target for 2012-2013 was fixed at US$ 12 billion; we exceeded it by a good margin. We were complimented by our Ministry for being one of the very few EPCs which had assumed an ambi ous target and exceeded it by a decent margin. We have done a market study of Japan and Korea, we need to focus on penetra ng these markets with country product specific ini a ves.

1. Modular drawback 2. Quan ty restric on free trade with access to interna onal prices 3. Incen ves to start from finished goods and flow downwards This ensures that all products from co on to “cut and sew” enjoy interna onal prices. Even as each link enjoys interna onal prices, the product becomes available effec vely cheaper to Indian value adding companies. This rather obvious but simple understanding, if appreciated by all can help the long value chain stay integrated. TEXPROCIL has taken the ini a ve to work closely with sister EPCs to create a unified approach to export promo on. Several joint representa ons have already been done. Working together increases the mind space of policy makers. Owning up our improving compe veness, highligh ng our compe veness and seeking external enablers to convert our internal compe veness into growing external trade will then become easier. When we make Joint representa ons to our policy makers, it will have a much bigger impact than when we make the same representa on as individual councils. TEXPROCIL @ 60 enjoys tremendous credibility, its logical, data based approach is much appreciated by Ministry officials and the effec veness of TEXPROCIL’s approach over lobbying based approach is certainly bringing the other EPCs to workmore closely with TEXPROCIL.

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Ge ng CCI to play the market stabilizing role besides support price Carefully study interna onal trade trea es, trade imbalances with important countries, commission social impact studies and through it highlight the importance of access to developed markets for tex les, the employment genera ng industry Study the stated objec ve of incen ves and du fully take up the need to have the highest incen ves for texles amongst all manufactured product with our tex le and commerce ministries and DGFT All the above serve the common interest of all tex le Export Promo on Councils and need to take it up as the joint project of the 3 major EPCs together.

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R›ÖÊÙã P«ƒÝ®Ä¦ Êçã ÝçÝ®—®›Ý

charged by Railways is available to all, instead of only to monopoly companies that operate container freight services, we will be able to reduce the need even further 4. With lower interest costs we will be able to compete without subsidies Un l all the needs to compete without subsidies are fulfilled, we need to ensure that our policy makers support us without fear of backlash.

W› 웗 ãÊ óÊÙ» ãÊóƒÙ—Ý ƒ ÝçÝ®—ù ¥Ù›› ò®ƒ®½®ãù, 1. GST will help reduce a part of the need 2. However once we gain a level playing field with respect to import duty tariffs, the need will further reduce 3. Logis c cost reduc on a er coastal cargo movement improves and container transporta on cost by rail as

WOOL INDUSTRY EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL Wool Industry Export Promo on Council was formed for promo ng and enhancing wool and woollen tex le exports and to create an image favourable for this purpose is being followed by the council.

AGM SPEECH

trade deficit with China is a ma er of high concern for India. The frame work proposes step towards improving india’s export capacity and compe veness and expedite ac on on resolu on of market access. India has also suggested China to lower tariff on tex les and handmade carpets. However, China has suggested this could be taken up under the frame work of the Asia – Pacific Trade Agreement.

Indian woollen tex le industry, as you all know is labour intensive industry and can create more jobs to the skilled, unskilled and also educated people in addi on to the jobs for the ladies in the remote villages of the country.

Council will be submi ng list of preference of the markets in descending order to explore these markets which may be considered for trade exhibi ons for the period 2015-16.

Wool and Woollen Tex le exports helps in crea on of jobs for the youth of the country for the domes c industry and the export markets. The wool and woollen tex le industry in India is poised to grow at a healthy rate provided level playing field in tariff barriers with rela ve cost of materials which will create an atmostphere of compe veness to boost exports.

CÊçđ®½ CÊçđ®½ «ƒò› ÝçÃ®ã㛗 Ý禦›Ýã®ÊÄÝ ãÊ ã«› M®Ä®ÝãÙù ¥Ê٠ٛò®ò®Ä¦ ›øÖÊÙãÝ: 1. Introduc on of special benefits for export of branded products to encourage to exporters towards brand building which is a costly affair. 2. Enhancement of duty drawback rates on all woollen products. 3. Aboli on of custom duty on raw wool, woollen rags, nylon staple fibre and polypropyle staple fibre. 4. Aboli on of requirement of NOC from quaran ne authori es before clearance of wool. 5. Non-availability of reliable sta s cs of woollen industry. 6. Brand promo on of woollen products. 7. Market diversifica on from USA/Europe to La n American /South East Asia/CIS/ Africa/ Japan/ Korea/ Australia/ NZ & Gulf countries. 8. Organizing atleast 12 shows in a year under MAI 9. Organizing atleast 5 shows under MDA Scheme. 10. JWG between India and Australia in areas of Promoon/technical know how /knowledge transfer/branding/studies for improving trade and wool Wool Industry Export Promo on Council organized and par cipated in the following shows and recommendaons: 1. New Years’ Gi s – Interna onal Exhibi on, St. Petersburg, Russia for the period 12th – 15th December, 2013 2. 32nd Edi on Expocomber, Panama City, Panama for the period 26th – 29th March, 2014.

India’s export performance has been steady although overall export of emerging na ons and some of the developing na ons grew during the last year. Some major reasons for less exports is the lack of the manufacturing compe veness due to high transac on costs, procedural delays and rigid labour laws. Technical and scale of operaons are important factors to cut cost. Woollen Tex les are witnessing the healthy growth slowly. A high rate of technology penetra on into this industry coupled with government incen ves and other capacity building ini a ves have translated into increased exports, besides s mula ng domes c consump on. Indian exporters need to geographically diversify their exports to the regions such as Middle East, La n America, South East Asia and East Asia,CIS to increase their presence significantly in the global markets apart from US & EU which are key des na ons for Indian wool and wool branded products. Tex le Industry has great poten al and is the mainstay of the country’s economy. With aboli on of quota, India has gone ahead of other countries and has posi oned itself as a value added manufacturer with a varied material base with product development and design orienta on. The Government envisions building state of the art produc on capaci es and achieving prominent global standing in the Tex le sector by 2020 which includes manufacturers and exporters of all types of tex les.

Wooltexpro has maintained close rela ons with all the EPCs for export promo on with united approach.

However, the regional FTA’s have not benefi ed in India to a great extent.

Wooltexpro has also maintained close liason with Australian Wool Innova on, Wool Research Associa on, Central Wool Development Board, Gujarat Sheep & Wool Development Corpora on and all the interna onal players in wool and woollen tex le industry.

India had a dollar 36.2 billion goods trade deficit in fiscal 2014 with China. This wide trade imbalance is o en blamed for hur ng many of the manufacturing sectors in India. This 57

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AGM SPEECH

SRTEPC CHAIRMAN : SHRI RAKESH MEHRA

We have been improving our posi on in exports. It is heartening to note that exports of Indian Man-made fibre tex les touched US$6160 million during 2013-14 as against US$5249 million during 2012-13, thereby registering a growth of 17%, over the in the previous year. The rupee deprecia on during most of 2013-14 also supplemented the efforts put in by our members to achieve this number. Exports of Fabrics dominated the export basket with a share of 36% followed by Yarn 33%, Made-ups 21% and Fibre 10%... Our exports were des ned to 146 countries.

Trade Facilita on Agreement (FTA) needs re-look urgently. This is in the interest of India and also at global level benefiting large number of countries. Trade is an engine of growth, especially for developing countries such as India. Trade Facilita on Agreement (TFA) was the outcome of a pledge taken by 160 member countries including India in December, 2013 in Bali. It was a pledge to cut red tape from customs procedures aiming to reducing Customs related paper work, customs procedures more transparent, reducing clearance delays at ports, etc. For its implementa on financial assistance would be provided both through the WTO and the World Bank.

UAE has emerged as the leading market of Indian MMF tex le exports with US$588 million, followed by Turkey (US$560 million). Neighbouring Bangladesh has emerged as the 5th largest market.

TFA was primarily aimed at reducing fric on in the movement of goods across countries and increasing their flows by minimizing their inefficiencies and increasing transparencies in the governance of interna onal trade.

The other leading markets during 2013-14 were USA (US$457 million), Brazil (US$325 million), Afghanistan (US$196 million), UK (US$190 million), Germany (179 million), Egypt (US$167 million) and Iran (US$157 million).

Though India’s concern on this front is valid, upholding food security is a livelihood issue; TFA is the need of the hour to give boost to global trade and also to overcome various transac on costs and procedural delays. It is our submission that India should ac vely and immediately move on and eliminate the hurdles and delays in the customs procedure etc so as to enhance speed of trade flow. Since food security is also important for us, we should look for op ons like producer subsidies such as cash transfer, consump on subsidy to help poor farmers which may not be objec onable at the WTO level. We must also heed the general feeling in the interna onal trade regime that the present TFA impasse may be more damaging for the WTO mul lateral trade deals that span many industries like tex les and MMF. Hence we must urgently take a middle path to reach out the global forum to offer an amicable solu on and also quickly taking steps in the domes c front for removing the plethora of procedural hurdles which delays the normal trade flow.

As you are aware, the Honorable Prime Minister has urged for evolving “Make in India” brand based on “zero defect and zero effect (on environment)” and envisioned India emerging as the preferred des na on for global manufacturing and Indian goods acquiring reputa on amongst the global consumers based on quality. There could not have been a more opportune me for this. India has fallen to 134th rank out of 189 countries in the World Bank’s ease of doing business rankings. Furthermore, World Economic Forum’s global compe veness Index ranked India 71 out of 144 countries----22 slots lower than 6 years ago. Manufacturing beyond doubt needs to be augmented. It will spur domes c economic ac vity, higher growth, more jobs, and move people out of agriculture, spur services and increased exports. Its share in GDP has stagnated to 15% over the last 20 years. Let us hope with the concentrated efforts of the Government we gain on these fronts.

EXPORT TARGET

In this connec on Secretary Tex les held a mee ng with EPC’s. In the delibera on we have highlighted the issues constraining the MMF tex les Industry. We are today capable of manufacturing the best quality of yarn, fabrics and made ups and take pride in delivering these to the most quality conscious customer/markets. Adequate policy support and liberal incen ve measures are required to achieve compounded growth. Special a en on was sought in the case of MMF tex les, as unlike other segments in the tex le sector, it is burdened with a slew of taxes in the domes c market, and protec onist measures in its export markets. Hence it was suggested that MMF tex les need immediate support measures like aboli on of various taxes and also con nua on of interest subven on scheme, enhanced drawback rates and reduced interest rates similar to that of the priority sector lending for enhancing its growth and exports. It was assured that MMF Tex le Sector has the capacity to absorb the s mulus and deliver enhanced outcome and export manifold in the near future. We have also sought for immediate support, both financial and diploma c level, for figh ng An -dumping cases.

You may be aware that as per the latest data, MMF texles exports during April-August, 2014-15, has reached US $ 2.44 billion registering a growth of 6.75% compared to the corresponding period last year. It is heartening to see that the exports are increasing. I am delighted to inform you that the Council had set an ambi ous target of US$ 6.0 billion for the year 2013-14 which has not only been achieved but also surpassed. This was possible only due to the coordinated efforts and commitments of our members, leadership and guidance by our COA and compensa on and support from Ministry of Tex les and Commerce. Based on these encouraging exports, the Council has set an ambi ous export target of US$ 6.50 billion during the year 2014-15. I am confident that with your con nued efforts and posi ve policy support of the Government, we shall be successful in achieving the target during 2014-15 also.

PROMOTIONAL PROGRAMMES In the year 2013-14, Council par cipated in the internaonal Fairs in Korea, China, and Cambodia & Saudi Arabia and also organized exclusive tex le exhibi ons INTEXPO in Colombia (Bogota & Medellin) and Iran. I am glad to submit that these Exhibi ons have yielded sa sfactory results and more importantly there has been significant increase in exports of our items in those markets where Council organized

Tك—› Fƒ‘®½®ãƒã®ÊÄ A¦Ù››Ã›Äã ®Ä ã«› R›‘›Äã WTO ۛã®Ä¦ The recent opposi on of Government of India to the TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | OCT - DEC 2014 www.textilevaluechain.com

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SRTEPC CHAIRMAN : SHRI RAKESH MEHRA promo onal programmes.

AGM SPEECH

exists a tremendous opportunity to increase export of MMF Tex les, thereby enhancing the much needed foreign exchange earnings of the country. We had reiterated that, India’s export of MMF Tex les at USD 6 BN is barely 10% of China. Considering even a 10% shi of Chinese business to India, Indian exports can double to USD 12 BN. MMF Texles need Government support to achieve this due to the reasons that the Indian MMF Tex les face a slew of disadvantages that include:

INTEXPO IRAN One of our important promo onal programme during 2013-14 was INTEXPO Iran. INTEXPO, the biggest exposi on of Indian tex les in Iran was held at Tehran, Iran during May 19-21, 2013. A first-ever Combined Indian Exhibi on of Texles organised by the Council has evoked huge interest in Indian tex les by the buyers in Iran. We have also received huge media support with live coverage of local television.

The structure of the domes c MMF industry is such that it allows the domes c producers of staple fibre to charge import parity prices which are 20% higher than ex- mill prices of fibre in compe ve countries like China and Indonesia. This puts the Indian exporter in a disadvantageous posi on vis-à-vis its compe tors.

It has also opened up new avenues for enhancing our exports of tex les to Iran in the context of the rupee trade mechanism between Iran and India consequent to sanc on of Iran by the US and EU. Friends, as expected it has given significant boost to exports of Indian tex les to Iran.

Our main raw material is a manufactured product and not grown on mother earth. We have no luxury of natural resources. It faces s ff compe on from China, Indonesia, Korea and Thailand. The price of MMF fibres too fluctuates with crude oil prices thus bringing about uncertainty.

PROMOTIONAL PROGRAMMES IN 2014-15 I am happy to inform that, with the enormous support and encouragement of the members, the Council was able to successfully organise various exhibi ons during 2014-15. These include the first-ever exclusive Exhibi ons in La n America in Peru in April 2014, and also in the African Con nent in Sudan and Ethiopia in August 2014, which a racted good turn out of buyers in these markets. The Council will be undertaking exhibi ons in other important markets including Bangladesh, Burma, Saudi Arabia, Kuwait, Pakistan, Russia and Turkey during the year 2014-15. We are also planning to organize INTEXPO in Iran and Colombia in consulta on with the Embassy of India and Exhibi on Authority of Iran.

MMF tex les exports face aggressive imposi on of an dumping du es by most of the impor ng countries. This phenomenon exists only in MMF tex les amongst all the segments of India’s tex le exports. Market Linked Focus Product Scheme (MLFPS) has emerged as a suitable Scheme of the Government. We have requested the DGFT, Ministry of Commerce giving all jus fica ons to grant benefit of MLFPS from 4% to 7% for MMF products to increase exports in the iden fied markets. These submissions have been carefully prepared considering the poten al of an export market vis a vis our share. In view of the above, the export of MMF tex les are only at 2.8% of World trade whilst the other segments in the Indian tex les export are in excess of 5%, thus crossing the WTO threshold limit of 3.25% of World trade.

INTEXPO SUDAN AND ETHIOPIA INTEXPO Sudan and Ethiopia is the maiden exclusive Exhibi ons of Man-made tex les organized by the Council with the ac ve assistance and guidance of the Embassy of India in Sudan and Ethiopia. The Exhibi on provided 20 members par cipa ng companies, an excellent opportunity to interact with the buyers and understand their specific requirements. The highly focused export promo on programme in Sudan and Ethiopia made a good impact on the outcome of the Exhibi ons and the par cipa ng member companies in introducing their products effec vely to their prospec ve buyers/importers and their agents in these market in the African region.

We, have proposed under the FTP proposal to extend maximum possible benefits under Chapter 3 of the FTP in preference to the other segments in the Indian Tex le Export.

AEPC PROPOSAL AEPC has been consistently seeking Duty free import of Man-made fabrics on one pretext or the other. We had made it amply clear about the damage consequence to the domes c MMF tex les if it is agreed upon. Due to high fiscal du es levied on MMF tex les, resultant fabric becomes expensive in the domes c market. For export of garment made out of domes c fabrics, the high fiscal levies are neutralized by All Industry Drawback Rates.

POLICY MATTERS As you are aware, Indian MMF Tex les did remarkably well amidst the lull exports in other sectors in 2013-14. The Man- made tex les grew highest to nearly 17%, amongst the other tex les. However, in order to sustain our exports during these difficult mes, there is need for considera on by way of generous Policy support from the Government. We have suggested some of the urgent measures to be taken in this regard to the Government including the Ministry of Tex les and Ministry of Commerce.

I am extremely happy to reiterate that the Indian MMF tex le industry today is in a posi on to manufacture high quality products and can match global standards of competitor countries. We have to be extremely vigilant in the AEPC’s mo ve and moves which will result in substan al import of MMF fabrics into India and will further burden and damage the domes c MMF industry already stressed due to various high fiscal levies, transac on costs etc.

ENHANCED GOVERNMENT SUPPORT UNDER – F T P We have made best efforts to sensi ze the policy decision makers in the government at various levels that there

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AGM SPEECH

SRTEPC CHAIRMAN : SHRI RAKESH MEHRA

PRIORITY SECTOR LENDING RATE

Bill of Entries, etc. have been provided to the Department of Finance (Drawback). Let us look forward for the Enhanced Drawback announcement for the MMF Products. We have requested them to be generous with MMF Tex les in view of the fact that it is the only sector in the en re Indian tex le industry that contributes towards excise duty and that too Rs 7000 crores annually.

In order to make exports compe ve, funds/credit should be made available to the exporters at lower rates. The current interest rate at which credit is available to exporters is making us uncompe ve. I urged the Government to make available funds to the expor ng community at no more than 7% p.a. and treat such loans as Priority Sector Lending.

ANTI-DUMPING INVESTIGATION ABOLITION OF CUSTOMS DUTY Ι SAD ON IMPORT OF MAN-MADE FIBRES

Friends, our main area of concern is the ongoing An-Dumping Du es/Safeguard Du es levied by Turkey, Brazil, Indonesia, Peru, Egypt and the European Union. These levies of An -dumping du es impact our compe veness. To start with, this year Turkey has ini ated Sunset Review on “Yarn of Man-made or Synthe c or Ar ficial Staple Fibres”. Concerned members have been ac vely taking part in defending the case. The Council has also taken up the ma er with the Ministry of Tex les to take up the ma er bilaterally with the concerned authori es in Turkey to conduct inves ga on and withdrawal of An Dumping on our MMF products.

Indian Manufacturers of Man Made Fibres by their sheer size do not need any protec on. The import of such Fibres is negligible. Customs Duty and SAD only increase import parity prices vis-à-vis Domes c Price. I have urged the Government to abolish the same and it will have no revenue loss to the exchequer.

REDUCTION IN EXCISE DUTY Our goal is to achieve fabric security to the country. With this ul mate goal in mind, we have requested the Government to create a level playing field by bringing about duty neutrality amongst all fibres. The consumer should be allowed to choose fabric according to what he likes instead of price differences due to distorted duty structure. In fact, this imbalance has not allowed the MMF Industry to grow to its true poten al. The share of MMF tex les world over is 60% of the total tex le trade; while the same in India is only 40%. MMF Fabrics are much cheaper, long las ng and predominantly used by the common man. I have requested the Government to correct this distorted duty structure that will allow each fibre to compete on its merit. Revenue loss if any, on this account may be neutralized by imposing import duty on crude.

The European Commission has ini ated an An -Subsidy Inves ga on on import of PSF origina ng from India. Subsequently, the European Commission iden fied sample companies for onsite verifica on in India. The Officials from the European Commission visited India to verify the details of Central and State Government Schemes with Officials of DOC, DGFT and DBK Department. Indonesia too has ini ated an An Dumping Inves gaon on import of “Drawn Textured Yarn” (DTY) from India. The Council had received essen al facts in DTY Inves ga on commenced by Indonesia and KADI has forwarded the results of the date enquiry report on An Dumping on imports of DTY with a request to provide the comments by the concerned exporters. It may be brought to the a en on of our members that the ongoing An -Dumping Du es by Brazil on “Viscose Spun Yarns” and by Peru on ‘Fabrics made of Polyester Staple Fibre and Viscose Staple Fibre’ is coming up for a Sunset Review a er a year or two.

INTEREST SUBVENTION It is learnt that the Commerce Department has already taken up the issue of interest subven on which expired at the end of March 2014 with the Finance Ministry and the extension is expected with the budgetary provision for the Scheme which has already been made. The benefit was drawn earlier to sectors such as small and medium enterprises, handloom tex les, handicra s, carpets, toys, sports goods, etc. We urge that the benefit of Interest Subven on should be extended to all exporters of the tex le sector including MMF tex les irrespec ve of their size and investment in plant and machinery.

We request the Ministry once again to take up An Dumping ma er with the concerned countries bilaterally through diploma c channels and also at the WTO pla orm so that the an -dumping du es on MMF Tex les may be withdrawn. I have also pleaded for increase in financial assistance for defending An -dumping cases against Indian exports under the MAI scheme as defending an -dumping cases involve high legal fees and other costs.

DUTY DRAWBACK In order to make our exports compe ve in the interna onal market, there is a need for enhancement of Duty Drawback rates for all Synthe c items. During the High Level Drawback Commi ee mee ng held on 30th August 2013. It was highlighted to the Commi ee about the increasing cost of products due to various du es and levies and . I had further pointed out to the Commi ee that due to the removal of the DEPB Scheme, exports of MMF tex les have been adversely affected. The detailed calcula ons of excise and custom du es on Man-made items along with the suppor ng Annexures including Shipping Bills, Central Excise Invoice,

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MEMBERSHIP DRIVE I am glad to inform you that in the year 2013-14 the Council have already surpassed the membership target set for the SRTEPC by the Ministry. At present the total number of members of SRTEPC is 3327. The Council has chalked out a Membership Drive programme in various MMF hubs in the country with organizing of Seminars, Workshops and personal orienta on during the year.

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FAITMA ΈFEDERATION OF ALL INDIA TEXTILE MANUFACTURERS’ ASSOCIATIONSΉ

AGM SPEECH

With the growing visibility of the improved strength, efficiency and produc vity, the Industry is capable of making efforts to achieve the projected level of growth. If everything goes well and if the genuine demands are met, the industry may touch the projected level or go close to it. If that happens, the industry will be at the top of the Everest of Indian economy.

‘Mƒ»› ®Ä Iė®ƒ’ The high-profile launch of ‘Make in India’ is the welcome step to make our country a manufacturing hub. Already, India is a leading service provider. On achieving supremacy in manufacturing and further strengthening of servicing capability, India will become an economic power. Once this happens, all economic and social problems, which are currently faced, will resolve.

President : Mr. Ramesh Poddar,MD of Siyaram Mills Ltd. The financial year which slipped into history on 1st April of this year was important in many respects. The country got a new Government and the whole naon is looking up to the Honourable Prime Minister for quick resolu on of economic and administra ve problems which had arrested the economic growth and created discontent in the society.

OĽ®Ä› R›ãƒ®½®Ä¦

Although things have started improving, one cannot expect any magic will happen to resolve all problems in a jiffy. I would like to touch upon a few important developments.

Some tex le companies have plans to rope in local tailors and make available tailoring services online with a branded offering. Thus, the fabric brands will get a boost through the digital medium.

IÄã›Ùăã®Êă½ Tك—› ®Ä T›ø㮽›Ý

Tex le companies are also planning to take help from giant e-retailers to organize online marke ng pla orm to their products, whether fabrics or garments

The tex le industry is on the threshold of a revolu on in marke ng, which will help increase consump on.

Exports of tex les and clothing, [Chapters 50 to 63], totalled nearly US $ 40 billion, in 2013-2014. The world export trade in Tex les and Clothing grew by 6.77% from US $ 710.64 billion during Jan – Dec 2012 to US $ 758.77 billion during Jan-Dec 2013.

The entry of electronics in the marke ng will reduce distribu on cost, and help the consumer to do purchasing in the cosy atmosphere of his residence, thereby saving his me and money on transport. The end result is to get fabrics and garments at reduced prices which will increase consump on.

It is a ma er of gra fica on that India reported a growth of 11.27%, although among the top ten expor ng countries, the performance of Vietnam was the highest at 18.61% and Bangladesh was the second highest at 17.99%. China connued to be the largest exporter with a lion’s share of 36% was the third highest in the growth rate. India’s share in world exports of tex les and clothing has now improved to 4.82%.

I strongly advocate fellow manufacturers to ac vely consider the latest marke ng strategy.

GST A large chunk of the tex le industry par cularly the organized sector has welcomed the introduc on of GST that is Goods and Services Tax.

China is facing the problems of increasing produc on cost because of the increase in Labour cost and Power cost. The developing situa on in China may open opportunity to other expor ng countries like India to bag a larger share of interna onal trade.

GST may be good for the industry in general. However in the case of Tex le industry the main problem is of tax compliance. Will this not create problems in smooth func oning of GST? It is also important to decide, whether, for the purpose of taxa on, a hand-made product like handloom fabrics which is the heritage, culture and pride of the country could be equated with the products on super-high-speed, high produc vity, sophis cated machines of the present genera on. Next, at present, there is neither excise duty nor VAT on conven onal fabrics. Will the industry be in a posion to pass on the burden of GST in such a situa on? The ques on is whether it is correct to measure all segments of the industry by the same standard or yards ck or there should be considera on of such issues.

V®Ý®ÊÄ Sãƒã›Ã›Äã The Ministry of Tex les had appointed an Expert Commi ee under the Chairmanship of Shri Ajay Shankar, Member-Secretary, Na onal Manufacturing Compe ve Council. The Expert Commi ee has prepared Vision, Strategy and Ac on plan for Indian Tex le and Apparel Sector. The report has envisaged that with a 20% CAGR in exports India would be expor ng by 2024-25 tex les and fabrics worth US $ 300 billion. Further, with a 12% CAGR in domes c sales, the industry should reach a produc on level of US $ 350 billion of tex les and apparels, by 2024-2025, for domes c sales.

What is required is a detailed analysis of the pros and cons of GST on the tex le industry. It is equally necessary to take into considera on views of all segments of the industry before taking such an important decision.

Thus, the size of the industry will be US $ 650 billion from the present level of US $ 120 billion. This is certainly a long jump.

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AGM SPEECH

AEPC CHAIRMAN : MR. VIRENDRA UPPAL VAT chain. iii) 3% interest subven on scheme in the RMG sector, should be con nued for 12th Plan period. iv) Separate chapter for pre and post shipment export credit at fixed rate of 7% Interest by including apparel in priority sector lending. v) Upward Revision of Duty Drawback needs to be increased to take care of various anomalies, which lead to export of Taxes and make it broad based with increase in drawback caps etc. & possibly matching with that of China which is 17 % of FoB value, which would spur the growth in apparel exports, boost Forex and employment in all round manner. vi) Employment genera on linked tax credit for set-off against direct / indirect taxes in a staggered manner vii) Amendment in Sec on 35 of IT Act 1961:- The benefit of this sec on should be extended to readymade garment sample making to the extent of 5% of the turnover of that assesses in the same assessment year. Further this amount of deduc on should be allowed as reduc on in computa on of book profit u/s 115JB also. viii) Waiving off Service Tax on taxable service in sub clause (zzze) of clause (105) of Sec on 65 of Finance Act on services may be provided to specified associaons under (zzze) of Finance Act) for the period of viz. 16.06.2005 to 06.07.2009. ix) The manpower engaged by the contractors in the exporters premises who are involved in the manufacturing ac vity in the terms of sec on 2(f) of central excise act 1944, meant for export should be fully exempted from the preview of Service Tax. x) EPCs should be exempted from service tax payment on organizing exhibi on in domes c market. xi) Export sector should be exempted from following service taxes like ECGC Premium, Clearing House Agents (CHA), Terminal Handling Charges (THC), Bank charges on collec on of bill, foreign currency related to export, service charges for conversion of remi ances, courier charges for documents and commercial shipments, service tax on ac vi es related to brand promo on. xii) AEPC has submi ed details to DGFT and JS (DBK) about simplifica on in SION & customs exit point.

EXPORT PERFORMANCE Exports in dollar terms for April-March of the FY 201314 has increased by 15.7 per cent over the same period of previous FY and reached to USD 15001 million. Apparel exports were to the tune of USD 1384 million in Aug. 2014-15 with increase of 23 per cent against the corresponding month of last financial year. India’s RMG export to World for cumula ve months i.e. April-August 2014-15 was to the tune of USD 7076 mn. up by 17.9 per cent from the same period of previous financial year. During April-August 2013-14 India’s apparel exports were to the tune of USD 6002 mn. Apparel imports of the United States witnessed decline of 1.38 per cent in the July month of 2014 from the previous year and amounted to US$8296 million against US$ 8385 million in July 2013. In the July 2014, US imports of apparel from Vietnam has increased by 5.95 % per cent and reached to USD 884 million against USD 834 million in July 2013. In the month July 2014 USA registered highest import growth from Vietnam amongst top 6 RMG suppliers to USA. Cumula ve period of Jan-July 2014 saw only modest improvement in the USA apparel import with an increase of 2.19% compared to same period of previous year. Cumula ve import for Jan-July 2014 was to the tune of US$ 46425 mn. as against US$ 45430 million in Jan-July 2013. In Jan-July 2014 out of the total USA garment import only US$ 2151 mn. was imported from India with an increase of 5.62% compared to same period of previous year. USA RMG imports saw decline from all major suppliers during Jan-July 2014 over the corresponding period of last year except for Vietnam (13.85%) and India (5.62%).

EXPORT PROMOTION

EU’s apparel import accounted for USD 45586 million for the Jan.-June 2014 with increase of 12.63% over the same period of previous year. India’s export to EU for the Jan-June 2014 amounted to USD 3483 million with 16.33% increase compared to same period of previous year.

(A) Buyer Seller Meets in New York, Spain, Colombia, Brazil, Israel, South Africa,Uruguay, San ago, Netherland,

(B) i) ii) iii) iv) v) vi) ix) x)

In June 2014 total external-EU RMG import was to the tune of US$ 7570 million with an increase of 19.29 per cent compared to same month of previous year. in June 2014 EU registered posi ve growth in RMG import from all 4 top suppliers and highest import growth was registered by Bangladesh (33.07 per cent) followed by India (27.17%).

DçٮĦ 㫛 F®ÄƒÄ‘®ƒ½ Y›ƒÙ 2013-14 ¥Ê½½Êó®Ä¦ ®ÝÝç›Ý ó›Ù› ・›Ä çÖ ó®ã« GÊò›ÙÄÛÄã

(C)

i) En tlement of export performance cer ficate (EPC) has been increased from 3% to 5%. Removal of exemp on limit of import of sample fabric. should be limited to 2% of the FoB value. ii) The RMG sector has con nued under op onal CEN TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | OCT - DEC 2014 www.textilevaluechain.com

IÄã›Ùăã®Êă½ Fƒ®ÙÝ : PƒÙ㮑®Öƒã›— ®Ä Fatex Fair in Paris, France Hong Kong Fashion Week, Hong Kong JFW Interna onal Fashion Fair Magic Fair, Las Vegas, USA Australian Interna onal Sourcing Fair, Melbourne Hong Kong Fashion Week, Hong Kong White Label, Berlin, Germany Apparel Show in Interna onal Fashion Fair Tokyo, Japan

DÊÛÝ㮑 Eò›ÄãÝ

i) India Market Days ii) India Interna onal Garment Fair (IIGF), Praga Maidan, New DelhI

(D) 62

H®¦« L›ò›½ Tك—› D›½›¦ƒã®ÊÄÝ


AEPC

AGM SPEECH

CHAIRMAN : MR. VIRENDRA UPPAL AEPC’Ý CCC - DISHA ÖÙʦكÃÛ

garments.

Driving Industry towards Sustainable Human Advancement (DISHA) is a centrally Sponsored Scheme, under the Ministry of Tex les. The programme has completed 2 years and enrolled 478 factories as on date, of which 217 have completed the training programme & are ready for the AEPC Common Code of Conduct Cer fica on. The Twel h Plan Proposal for en re 980 units under an overall budget of Rs 23.88 crores has been submi ed to Ministry of Tex les and their approval is awaited.

INSTITUTE OF APPAREL MANAGEMENT IAM in less than 5-years has emerged as “Centre of Excellence” in Fashion & Apparel Sector including launch of 4-year B.Tech and “GenNext MBA in Fashion Business” programs.

APPAREL TRAINING Ι DESIGN CENTRE ATDC has emerged as the largest voca onal training provider for the Apparel Sector in the country. ATDC is also the single largest training provider for any voca onal trade in India. ATDC since 2009 underwent a major transforma on a er being selected as a Nodal Agency under Component I by the Ministry of Tex les (MOT), Govt. of India and since then, ATDC has systema cally worked towards developing training infrastructure, having set-up over 205 Centres Pan-India with State-of-the-Art factory simulated producon environment. Cumula vely over 1,20,000 candidates have been trained in a short span from 2009 ll March 2014 in both fast-track training programmes under the ‘SMART’ project and in long-term programmes at ATDC Voca onal Ins tutes. In addi on ATDC have set-up 3 Training of Trainers’ Academies and 3 Academies have trained about 1110 trained through specially developed training modules.

The major events organized under the program during the year have been DISHA Adop on Cer ficate Distribu on Ceremony, Training of Trainers, Mee ng of Expert Working Group and par cipa on in na onal & interna onal fairs & exhibi ons. The programme has received a posi ve feedback from industry par cipants & Interna onal organiza on such as ITC (Interna onal Trade Centre) which is a subsidiary of WTO and an apex body which benchmarks all major social standards across the globe. It has iden fied DISHA as contribu ng to: 1. Achieving the Growth of Exports Garments by Exploring, Sustaining & Expending global markets 2. Becoming one stop informa on centre providing Exports assistance to garment exporters 3. Bridging the gap between the exporters and overseas buyers through dedicated efforts of employees and Con nual Improvement of the quality management system. ITC has listed DISHA along with 115 standards form across the world. This is suo moto recogni on and has appreciated both by Industry & buyers and a stepping board for acknowledgement of DISHA by the buyers.

N›ó IĮ㮃ã®ò›Ý Ι ƒóƒÙ—Ý: The ‘Educa on Excellence Award 2014’ was received under ‘Best Voca onal Training Ins tute’ category by the country’s apex trade agency the Associated Chambers of Commerce and Industry of India (ASSOCHAM) in the Naonal Capital on February 19. This year a key contribu on by ATDC to the Skillscape came in form of developing Contemporary Curricula for over 29 trade courses (Garment & Fashion sectors) along with Directorate General of Employment & Training (DGE&T) & Na onal Council for Voca onal Training (NCVT) for cer ficaon requirements and with AICTE for the Apparel & Tex le sector as part of the Na onal Voca onal Educa on Framework(NVQF) wherein both DGE&T & AICTE formed curricula development commi ees under the DG&CEO- ATDC & IAM.

INNOVATIVE GARMENT TECHNOLOGY MISSION The Innova ve Garment Technology Mission was ini ated to inspire innova on by iden fying pioneering garment categories which encourage exporters to enhance their capabili es with respect to innova ve product categories. Under this 3i approach, the first handbook and DVD on denim tled “Inside the Denim Business” has been created. These series on Denim are par cularly useful for micro, small and medium garment manufacturers and inspires them to make an entry into a new and advanced category.

HUMAN RESOURCE ACTIVITIES SKILL ASSESSMENT CELL AEPC is the authorized by Ministry of Tex les as well as DGE & T to conduct assessments of Apparel & Tex le in MES and Non MES category.

The next ins tu onal DVD is proposed on Industrial Work wear.

The Skill Assessment Cell has also centralized the queson paper system and has ini ated transla on in various vernacular languages like Tamil, Oriya, Bengali etc.

AEPC WEBSITE In a bid to reach the maximum stakeholders and create a brand image to the garment traders across the world, AEPC has revamped / redesigned its mul lingual website in over 80 different foreign and Indian languages.

APPAREL HOUSE The Apparel house at Gurgaon is having 250 showrooms sca ered at 2nd to 6th floor. On the requests of Garment Exporters, booking for vacant showrooms in the Apparel House was opened in the first week of January, 2014 for all the exporters registered with Council, as well as entrepreneur in Tex les value chain like fabrics, trimming and embellishment, processing house, buying agents, buying house.

KNITWEAR TECHNOLOGY MISSION Knitwear Technology Mission is set up by the council for providing knowledge services (market informa on about knitwear), tes ng & cer fica on, research, training & educa on, design services and investor facilita on services like technology selec on etc in the field of man-made fibre 63

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AGM SPEECH

CITI CHAIRMAN:MR. PREM MALIK

It gives me great pleasure to welcome you all to the 56th Annual General Mee ng of the Confedera on. During the current year we have seen significant changes in the poli cal and economic landscape of our country. We have a new government at the centre with a stable mandate and there is a strong expecta on in the business community that this will help the government to take posi ve economic decisions with wider administra ve and procedural reforms. The honourable Prime Minister is on record about the importance of the tex les industry in the country’s economy and the need to assist it for faster growth. Tex les industry is one area where the PM’s progressive vision of ‘Make in India’ can be realized quickly and effec vely.

co on. I would urge government to con nue to encourage use of latest technology in seed development in co on in the interest of both the agriculture and tex le sectors. We must appreciate the policy of free trade that government has been following in recent years for co on. The market is capable of handling the situa ons of surplus produc on or shortage in co on, if there is predictability and stability in trade policies and there is no interference with market trends. The livelihood issues of millions of co on farmers are certainly important but the MSP mechanism is adequate to safeguard the interests of farmers. Experience shows that policy interven ons on exports or imports have only created more problems to all concerned rather than solving them.

Latest economic indicators show a possible revival of the country’s economy. Both financial and capital markets have been witnessing stability and resilience during the last few months which is a strong indica on of economic revival. External trade is witnessing impressive growth which is expected to be sustained in the coming quarters too. Manufacturing sector has also witnessed some growth recovery in the first quarter of the current financial year. However, for the economy to regain its verve, the manufacturing sector has to come back to double digit growth. That is not yet happening, but I am hopeful that the emerging business op mism and the effec ve policy interven ons by the new government would bring back the growth momentum to the en re economy including the manufacturing sector.

CITI’Ý CÊããÊÄ D›ò›½ÊÖÛÄ㠃ė R›Ý›ƒÙ‘« Associa on has been doing yeoman’s service for the co on sector under the leadership of Shri P.D. Patodia, our Past Chairman and currently Chairman of our Standing Commi ee on Co on. Total co on produc on and produc vity have increased substan ally in the areas of Rajasthan where CITI-CDRA is currently focusing and we have been able to deliver higher income to the farmers who are par cipa ng in our projects. To achieve its true poten al for tex le growth, India has to increase the size of the raw material base substan ally. Co on has limita ons of land availability and produc vity. Nearly 70% of world trade in tex le products is currently based on MMFs. But the share of such products in our tex les exports is around 25%, that too mostly in yarn and filament fabrics. The need to diversify into manmade fibre based products is assuming more and more urgency since the real growth opportunity for our industry is going to be in this segment during the coming years. I would urge the Union Government to reduce the duty burden including excise duty, customs duty and an dumping du es on manmade fibres and their raw materials at the earliest so that the increasing opportuni es can be properly u lised.

C›Äãك½ B痦›ã The Central Budget for 2014-15 with its focus on core sectors such as infrastructure, power and mining of coal and iron ore sets the stage for the long term growth of the economy. For tex les, the con nuance of op onal excise regime and the announcement of addi onal parks and clusters would provide growth opportuni es. Measures such as correc on of the inverted duty structure for industrial raw materials and extension of investment allowance for plant and machinery should help in

PÙʃ‘ã®ò› Pʽ®‘ù IÄã›Ùò›Äã®ÊÄÝ N››—›— Technology Upgrada on fund Scheme launched by government in 1999 is perhaps the best example of what proac ve policy measures can do to improve the competi veness of the industry. Today we have one of the most efficient spinning sectors in the world and other segments like weaving and processing also con nue to modernise produc on facili es. There have been some serious implementa on problems in TUFS during the last two years. I have strongly taken up the issues of bank defaults, le out cases and blackout cases with government and I am hopeful that some posi ve solu ons will emerge soon. The Hank Yarn Packing Obliga on, opera ng under the Essen al Commodi es Act and da ng back to 1974 is affec ng the tex le industry severely. Mills will pack yarn on hanks to the extent of demand available in the market for hank yarn, for commercial reasons. And forcing the mills to produce more hank yarn than the market can absorb does not help anybody. I would request government to withdraw the Hank Yarn Packing Obliga on immediately. Handloom reserva on is another vintage policy that does not gel with the current economic policies based on market forces. I would request government to repeal the Handloom Reserva on Act and revamp the approach to the handloom sector by perceiving it as a segment for producing fabrics of exquisite designs for the high end niche market which is where the segment has inherent compe veness.

resolving a few important bo lenecks. Steps towards job crea on and the personal income tax sops given out should put more money in the hands of the consumer and help revive domes c demand. The world is awash with liquidity and any performing economy should be able to attract investments. The measures outlined in the budget increases India’s a rac veness for emerging market investors. The trends in India’s stock markets in recent weeks reflect these posi ve sen ments.

IÃÖÊÙãƒÄ‘› Ê¥ SçÝヮě— Rƒó Mƒã›Ù®ƒ½ SçÖÖ½ù Sustained supply of raw material is one of the key factors that provide significant compe ve advantage to Indian tex le industry compared to the other tex le producing countries from the region. Today India is one of the largest co on producers in the world. Ever since Bt co on was introduced in India, our co on produc on has more than doubled and yield has increased substan ally. This has a racted more than 90% of our co on farmers to use Bt seeds and also resulted in a significant increase in the total area under co on. There are some disturbing demands to restrict the field trials for advanced technology in co on in the country. Restric ng field trials and imposing controls on innova on would adversely affect future produc vity of agriculture sector, par cularly in industrial crops like TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | OCT - DEC 2014 www.textilevaluechain.com

64


CITI

AGM SPEECH

CHAIRMAN:MR. PREM MALIK PÙÊ֛٠FʑçÝ N››—›— ÊÄ PÙʑ›ÝݮĦ

is also increasing rapidly. This would provide an opportunity for countries like India to grab a larger share of world trade in tex les. But that will happen only if Indian industry is able to scale up produc on facili es and become ver cally integrated. Rigid labour laws have been a major factor inducingfragmenta on of produc on facili es in the country. There are posi ve movements on the labour regime from the part of both Central Government and some of the State Governments in recent months and this should help the process of scaling up produc on units. Of course, a lot more needs to be done for improving the labour market. But the new government has begun well and there is reason to hope that they will do the rest in a phased manner. The industry has to deviate from its conserva ve and overly cau ous approach in terms of scaling up volumes and capacity crea on to harness the growingopportuni es in global markets. The stake holders of Indian tex les industry also need to take a course correc on and look for a mutually beneficial path to strengthen the value chain efficiency rather than resor ngto inter segmental rivalry to achieve short term segment specific advantages.

Since weaving and kni ng will remain fragmented at least for some more years, consolida on of the fabric industry for the immediate future may have to be a empted at the processing stage. We need at least 100 processing units with a capacity of not less than 100,000 metres a day in the organised sector which can get fabrics from several units in the decentralised sectors and process them together. This would address the issue of shade consistency and deliver large lots to the garment industry for produc on of mass consump on and regular wear products. Environmental issues are a major impediment in the processing sector. The pollu on control standards s pulated by the courts are more stringent than enforced anywhere else in the world, including the developed countries. A viable alterna ve to zero discharge within the ambit of the law is necessary. Establishment of processing parks in coastal areas where marine discharge is possible may be one alterna ve.

Iė®ƒÄ T›ø㮽›Ý ®Ä G½Êƒ½ MƒÙ»›ãÝ Tex le industry of India has had a chequered growth story during the last ten years and exports played a major role in both the ups and downs. The industry gained substan ally in terms of greater produc vity, raw material stability, massive modernisa on and technology based capacity addi on during this period, but 2009 to 2011 saw a general decline in the industry. The growth momentum revived during 20012 and 2013, but again recent trends are not very posi ve. India has retained the rare dis nc on of having a significant share in world trade in all the segments of the value chain from fibres to garments and home tex les. Currently, we are the largest exporter of yarn and the second largest exporter of fibres in the world. We also have significant presence in global markets for fabrics, garments and home tex les. In overall terms, India is next only to China in exports of tex le products. Studies show that India’s compe veness in the tex le sector has improved over the last decade against most of the compe ng countries and there is immense scope for increasing our exports further.Indian tex le industry has the advantages of high opera onal efficiencies in spinning, rela vely low-cost labour, availability of raw materials and design capabili es and entrepreneurship that can match the best in the world. Despite these posi ve features, our share in the global tex le trade con nues to be subop mal. The global tex le trade has grown from USD 430 billion in 2003 to USD 750 billion in 2012 and is projected to reach USD 1150 billion by 2020. India’s share in the year 2003 was 3% of the world trade which has grown to only 4.5% by 2012. On the other hand, China had 17% share in 2003 and by 2012 it achieved a market share of 33%. Nearly half of our tex les produc on is exported in various formsand the fortunes of the industry depend substan ally on exports. Both the government and the industry have a very ambi ous vision of taking our tex les exports to substan al heights during the next 10 years. The infirmi es of infrastructure and the transac on costs are broad areas that need immediate a en on of government. Tex le specific policy inputs in the form of lower interest burden on export credit and proper assistance under the Focus Schemes for the whole sector will also be necessary for the industry to achieve its real poten al in the export front.

GÊÊ—Ý ƒÄ— S›Ùò®‘›Ý Tƒø (GST) ƒÄ— T›ø㮽›Ý IėçÝãÙù We are all eagerly awai ng the introduc on of GST in India and government seems to be progressing well on this front. CITI had organised some brainstorming sessions to study the poten al impact of GST on the industry. The tex les industry has a large chunk of small scale units that include highly fragmented power loom and handloom units, small kni ng and croche ng units and small scale garmenting units. Any exemp ons in GST are bound to become another trigger for fragmenta on in several segments of the T&C industry. Leveraging of TUFS and corresponding technological up-grada on process might also run into problems, since fragmented sub sectors tend not to use them much. The consensus in the industry is that GST should cover all tex le producers without exemp on for any segments or groups and the lowest available slab in GST rates should apply to the sector. I would request government to keep this in mind while finalising the GST regime.

S»®½½ D›ò›½ÊÖÛÄã There is a large and widening gap between the demand and availability of workers in the tex les space. To fill up the demand supply gap, a focused and financially sustainable strategy for mobilizing and training workers needs to be put in place. There is also need to retrainand redeploy the workers from unviable units to more viable and sustainable streams. The Tex le Sector Skill Council (TSC) promoted by CITI under the aegis of the Na onal Skills Development Corpora on (NSDC) is now opera onal and the first mee ng of the governing council of TSC has already been held. TSC is incubated by tex le industry associa ons and training providers including tex le research associa ons and office of the Development Commissioner for Handlooms. It will be the nodal body to set skills bench marks and competency framework for tex le workforce. It will provide accredita on to training partners and arrange evalua on and cer fica onof students passing out from various educa on ins tu ons which have accepted the curriculum and competencies adopted by TSC.

It has been observed by many that China is fast losing its cheap labour cost arbitrage and its overall produc on cost 65

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REPORT

FABRIC REPORT

Tex le industry have unique tradi on ie manufacturer, traders, exporter, importer always “ CRY” tht market is not good. We ques on them, if market is not good from years how they are surviving and min ng money??

• •

As Tex le & Garment industry is commodity, lot of compe on, uniqueness, innova on etc, survival and growth is biggest challenge in global market. Few observa on given below by tex le contributor: • • • •

• • •

INDIA- USA business contract will be benefited to Garment and Home tex le industry, big orders expected by February 2015. Yarn dyed Checks which was imported from China, but due to increase of Rs. 30/ meter of Chinese fabric, Indian mills started producing good quality fabric Chatral village, besides Ahmadabad, many airjet looms will be installed soon, it will be func onal by March 2015. In Gujarat, there is good crop of co on this me. New spinning mills coming in Gujarat, Gujarat will be India’s Manchester. South india mills will be closed slowly ( due

• • • •

FABRIC REPORT

to loss of poli cal party which spinning mills run) 50x50/165x104, twill bio finish fabric is having good demand at Rs. 110/meter Ex Mill Jacquard furnishing fabric mills are less, so mill gives 30%-40% margin to the traders. Ahmadabad printed bed sheet is in demand, Solid/ Plain bedsheet price reduced, s ll no demand 200TC( Thread Count) /300TC/400TC upto 800 TC sa n percal is in good demand. Denim fabric, if good quality maintained than buyer are willing to pay extra. In Ahmadabad, company of Agarwal’s not having good quality denim, so he has 1.5 crore fabric in stock Local/ Domes c market not good but exporter have good orders from interna onal market. Not good demand of fabric. Previously Grey fabric sold by mills in Cash payment, now same mill selling fabric in credit of 60 days & 90 days. Ichalkaranji don’t have much work, so airjet loom jobwork price is Rs. 0.80/ pick. More than 50% of looms are stopped working.

FABRIC VARITIES

Refereance : Mr. Kir Shah Tex le World, Mumbai, Email: info@tex leworld.net.in TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | OCT - DEC 2014 www.textilevaluechain.com

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YARN REPORT

YNFX MONTHLY PRICEWATCH REPORT ͵ OCTOBER 2014

CRUDE OIL

CFR China, down US$64. US MEG prices were assessed at US cents 44.50-45.50 per pound FOB USG while European prices were at Euro795 a ton FCA NWE. PTA prices also slipped on bearish sen ments amid weak polyester market, averaging US$919.50-921.50 a ton CFR China, down US$82.50 from August. Upstream, paraxylene prices also declined easing cost support to the PTA market. Demand remained low in Europe which was reflected in a low average opera ng rate of 70% across European plants. Polyester chip markets in Asia extended the downward movement as both MEG and PTA prices so ened. In China, offers for semi dull chips fell to US$1,407-1,430 a ton, down US$68 from August average. Super bright chip prices also fell to US$1,412 a ton, down US$50-65 from August.

Global crude oil benchmark posted their third straight monthly loss despite good economic data from Europe, US and China. The upward revision of gross domes c product data from Europe and other regions and firm US economic indicators supported prices. Also oil demand, especially in the US, showed signs of firmness in recent weeks. Ac vity in China’s huge factory sector steadied in September as export orders climbed, easing fears of a hard landing but poin ng to a s ll sluggish economy facing considerable risks. Both benchmark contracts lost US$3-4 on the month with Brent crude averaging US$97.86 per barrel and US crude at US$93.10 a barrel in September. Asian naphtha market con nued to remain bearish amid mute trading ac vity as regional fundamentals appeared to be weakening. Market players were heard training their sights forward with some expec ng relief later in the year. European naphtha market also weakened due to lack of export opportuni es resul ng in oversupply in the domes c market. The naphtha cargo values averaged US$92.90 a barrel FOB Ro erdam, down US$3.7 from August while Japan CFR values averaged US$870 per ton, losing US$33 from August.

Polyester filament yarn price slipped in China in tandem with raw material costs amid sluggish downstream demand. At month-end buyers restocked cau ously for upcoming holiday. In Pakistan, DTY market was strong and some producers adjusted offers according inventory level. Prices were revised upwards amid improved trading and slightly declining inventory. In India, prices for POY were stable amid good trading. In China, POY 75/72 was traded at average of US$1.61-1.63 a kg in Shengze market, down US cents 3. Indian POY 130/34 prices were stable at US$1.95 a kg. Polyester staple markets extended the loss from last month with prices declining in China and India although at a slower pace, while Pakistan markets were resilient to the decline. In China, a strong rebound in paraxylene in the last week and rise in PTA futures on boosted polyester trading nevertheless, outlook remained bearish. In India, PSF market saw a notable improvement in trading volume amid increasing ac vity. In Pakistan, cheaper imports from China were asser ng pressure on domes c price. 1.4D PSF in China were at US$1.49-1.50 a kg, down US cents 9. Indian PSF prices averaged INR101.25 per kg, in September as against INR104 per kg in August.

POLYESTER CHAIN Ethylene prices bounced back in September, par cularly in SE Asia as supply constrains pushed them faster than in NE East Asian markets where demand from China was fading ahead of the long holiday in early October. In Europe, October ethylene contract price was se led at a rollover while spot prices declined more than Euro80 a ton. In US, spot ethylene prices touched 29-month high in the second week of September but dropped later following restart of capaci es amid improving availability. Ethylene prices averaged US$1,5081,510 a ton in SE and US$1,5435-1,545 a ton in NE, up US$18.75 and US$3.75, respec vely over August. European ethylene prices were down Euro81 averaging Euro913-917 a ton FD NWE while US spot recovered US cents4.31 to average US cents 71.50-72.00 per pound FD USG. Heavy selling pressure con nued to hit the Asian paraxylene markets and prices decline in the third week, only to jump back par ally on strong buying interest for October in the last week. European and US paraxylene benchmark were in tandem with movement in Asia. Asian marker, FOB Korea was down 7 per cent averaging US$1,238-1,239 a ton while European spot was down 5 per cent at US$1,181 a ton FOB ARA.

NYLON CHAIN Asian benzene prices touched bo om in the second week of September as styrene monomer price rebounded from a 14-month low. Lack of demand pushed spot benzene lower in US to reach a 10-month low and sen ment remained bearish in expecta ons that the market will be flooded with supply. European benzene prices followed the bearish streak in the US. Prices took an upturn in the third week influenced by the increase in US spot prices prompted by supply ghtening. However, prices declined in September in Asia, US and Europe as overall demand con nued to remain weak. Asian benzene marker, the FOB Korea was assessed at US$1,2081,209 a ton, down 8.3 per cent on the month. In US, spot benzene prices averaged US cents 428.70-428.80 per gallon FOB USG, down 11.6 per cent from August. European spot barges were assessed at US$1,311-1,312 a ton CIF ARA, down 6 per cent. Caprolactum prices were on a bearish trend, given downward benzene market and weaker enduse demand. Expected increase in supply going ahead also dampened prospect of prices remaining firm. Asian caprolactum spot prices averaged US$2,195-2,220 a ton in Au-

MEG prices weakened in September, but the fall was capped by short-covering in the end. Contract prices were se led down US$60 from their August numbers with Shell nomina ng October at US$1,100 a ton CFR Asia main ports and MEGlobal nomina ng at US$1,120 a ton CFR main port. In US, MEG prices were assessed down due to limited movement while European prices were stable on balanced fundamentals. Asian MEG prices averaged US$930-935 a ton TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | OCT - DEC 2014 www.textilevaluechain.com

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YARN REPORT

Prices were seen moving up in Pakistan and India. Overall, terminal buying was difficult due to poor atmosphere in chemical fiber industry. Taiwan’s Tong-Hwa pegged offers for an -pilling tow at US$2.76 a kg with firm deals negoable. Japan-origin flat fibers were quoted at US$4.00 a kg. Thai Acrylic Fiber pegged its offers for 1.5D at US$2.06-2.08 a kg. In China, co on-type was offered at US$2.94-3.03 a kg, up 1.5 per cent from last month and medium-length staple were at US$2.95-3.02 a kg. In Pakistan, 1.2D ASF prices were up PakRs5 to PakRs.325 a kg (US$3.16 a kg, up US cents 5). In India, ASF prices were up INR3 to INR 182-183 a kg (US$3.00-3.03 a kg).

gust, down 2 per cent from last month. Nylon chip markets con nued to remain sluggish as demand was lusterless, and prices were southbound, though at a slower pace than the raw materials. As tex le-yarn sector saw improving margin helped support demand for nylon chips, though buyers con nued to remain non-commi al given upstream drops. Non-tex le-yarn makers with limited chip stocks in hand had be er appe tes for nylon chips on improved margin. Offers for Taiwan-origin chips averaged US$2,525-2,535 a ton, down US$25 over from last month. In China, bright conven onal spinning nylon-6 chips were priced at US$2,760-2,900 a ton while offers for semi-dull chips were at US$2,960-3,055 a ton. Nylon yarn makers once again witnessed easing cost pressure amid lower caprolactum and nylon chip prices, thus increasing their margins. This also caused some so ening of filament prices while prices of staple fiber and cord fabric showed signs of weakening. Although downstream converters saw more order intakes, ght liquidity s ll existed in kni ng and weaving sector. Nylon filament makers will maintain reduced run rates and slightly adjust the prices in October. In China, semi-dull FDY70D/24F was traded at US$3.54-3.61 a kg while FDY40D was pegged at US$3.90-3.98 a kg. Nylon DTY 70D/24F was traded at US$3.74-3.98 a kg.

VISCOSE CHAIN Viscose staple fiber markets edged up in the second week largely due to lean inventory at producers and supply constraint. Prices were hiked, but were not so acceptable to downstream buyers. High-end makers also slightly raised their offers during that week while buyers s ll resorted to the handto-mouth volume. However, prices retreated somewhat by month end in China given the poor buying ahead of the holiday. Prices in Pakistan were seen adjusted downwards under demand pressure while they rolled over in India. In China, offers for medium goods were at US$1.95-1.96 a kg up US cents 2 from August. In Pakistan, 1.5D VSF was at US$2.04-2.05 a kg, down US cent 1. Indian prices were at US$2.25-2.36 a kg, down US cents 2-3. Trading sen ment in viscose filament yarn markets was buoyant, suppor ng producers to hike offers with fewer low-priced goods available in the market. However, the follow-up was not obvious as buyers con nued to restock on need basis. Offers for the first-class VFY 120D in China were at US$6.02-6.26 a kg, same as in last month. In India, 100D bright VFY was pegged at US$6.57-6.60 a kg, down US cents 7 from August.

ACRYLIC CHAIN Asian propylene prices declined in the third week on increased supply from propane dehydrogena on plants in China amid weakening demand. European propylene demand faltered with bearish October, as feedstock prices con nued their lackluster performance. However, prices were supported by supply constrain. For the month, propylene prices were down in Asia and Europe as demand so ened. In US, spot chemical-grade propylene jumped following talk of produc on disrup ons, ght supply and strong gasoline pool demand. Asian propylene marker, FOB Japan averaged US$1,2691,271 a ton down 3.4 per cent from August while the FOB Korea values lost 2.9 per cent at US$1,308-1,310 a ton. Acrylonitrile prices inched down in Asia on lower propylene costs and weak buying sen ment. European acrylonitrile prices were also down as demand weakened ahead of the propylene October contract price se lement and bearish propylene markets. In US, acrylonitrile export assessment fell on slower demand and the decline in the last week was the first drop in spot pricing since mid-April. Asian acrylonitrile was assessed down US$7.50 on the month to average US$2,045-2,047 a ton CFR Far East Asia. European prices declined US$8.50 to US$2,004-2,008 a ton CIF Mediterranean.

COTTON Co on markets were direc onless as they hit short term highs and long term lows. US Co on Futures hit 8-week high in the second week on prospect of a sharply lower US crop while prospec ve world ending stocks climbed to a new all- me high. US harvest prospects plunged mainly on reduc ons in Texas, Georgia and Arkansas. The benchmark December co on contract on ICE Futures US closed the month at US cents 61.89 per pound, down 4.68 per cent from August. The co on market in Pakistan spinners and exporters were on buying spree as floods and heavy rains in Punjab raised fears of vast damages to the standing co on crop. By end of September US co on futures fell to a five-year low on worries over China’s import demand in 2015 because of policy changes and despite a strong weekly US government export report. Adding to the market’s bearish sen ment, Co on Associa on of India stated that the crop in India could be 1.5 million bales more than USDA’s current es mate. Prices

Acrylic fiber prices were on a flat note early in the month but gained later as producers in China announced mid-month list prices mostly steady for the me being. As feedstock acrylonitrile prices remain subdued but cost pressure s ll persisted. Downstream yarn sen ment remained depressed for the lack of improvement in end demand, though solid yarn sector slightly picked up. Worsted bulk yarn saw normal sales. Later in the month some producers released list prices for October, with numbers kept steady. 69

TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | OCT - DEC 2014 www.textilevaluechain.com


YNFX MONTHLY PRICEWATCH REPORT ͵ OCTOBER 2014

YARN REPORT

in India declined sharply on surplus expecta on. Cotlook A index closed the month at US cents 70.15 while China Cotton Index tanked closing at 15,958 Yuan a ton.

at US$3.26 a kg, both down US cents 5-7 from last month. Viscose spun yarn markets were generally on a stable note, seeing thinner liquidity. In Pakistan, processors reportedly booked large quan es for covering their needs in the coming months and expec ng price offers for viscose yarns may increase in coming period. In China, offers for weaving 30s yarn were at US$2.54-2.57 a kg, and those for kni ng 30s yarn were at US$2.63-2.68 a kg. Siro-spun 30s yarn were at US$2.85 a kg. In Pakistan, both 30s viscose yarn and 40s were pegged at US$3.45 a kg. In India, 30/1 viscose spun was traded at US$3.28 a kg while 40/1 was at US$3.55 a kg.

SPUN YARN Co on yarn markets were depressed with prices receding at a rapid pace given while downstream weavers were generally buying on need basis, seeing spinning mills struggling with ght liquidity. Buying interest was also dampened by the China co on policy and off-taking ac vity was almost suspended amid a bearish sen ment over the future trend. In India, yarn prices remained rela vely flat on local markets despite the sharp decline of co on prices. In Pakistan, yarn demand was rebounding a er reports sta ng that the crop size was unaffected by recent floods. Given the unclear trend of co on, mills were holding wait-and-see stance, and downstream buyers reduced or even stopped buying yarn. Co on yarns prices have stabilised in Pakistan, a er declining sharply end August, in line with the fall in co on prices. Co on yarn export prices in India declined due to lower demand from China. In China, 32s and 40s yarn were traded at US$4.31 a kg and US$4.44 a kg), respec vely. In Pakistan, 20s and 30s yarn were pegged at US$2.54 a kg and US$2.97 a kg. In India, price for 30s combed yarn for kni ng was at US$3.23 a kg, while weaving was traded at US$3.20 a kg.

Blended yarn markets remained in weak correc ons early in the month as fibre prices were subdued, excep ng some inching up in co on prices. Players in China were on sidelines a er the new policy on co on, thus overall o ake volumes were s ll limited. New co on to come out with cotton subsidies, prices for yarn may con nued to head south in the short term. Some producers lowered offers to push sales but buyers were mostly wai ng for further decline. In India and Pakistan, blended spun yarn makers resisted any downward trend in prices. Overall off take was bearish and prices con nued to weaken. In Pakistan, polyester prices slightly declined but demand for polyester-co on yarns s ll strong. No change in prices was reported for polyester-cotton and polyester-viscose yarns, as producers were ge ng be er margins than with the co on yarns. In China, polyester/co on (65/35) 32s yarn was traded at US$3.24 a kg. In India, combed PC (65/35) weaving yarn prices for 30s were at US$2.75 a kg and 20s were at US$2.66 a kg. PV weaving (65/35) yarns prices were at US$2.87 a kg, up US cent 1 from last month. In Pakistan, PC (65/35) 20s in Faisalabad market was at US$2.81 a kg while 30s was at US$3.16 a kg, both down US cents 6 from last month.

Spun polyester yarn markets were so in September and makers saw margins shrink amid thin trading. PSF prices were lower in Pakistan with import prices dropping. This led to a marginal fall in polyester yarn prices and its blends. In India, polyester spun prices remained flat amid rigid demand. In Qianqing, 32s spun polyester yarn was at US$2.11-2.13 a kg, down US cents 2. In India, polyester yarn 30s prices were at US$2.51 a kg, up US cent 1 from last month. In Pakistan, 30s spun polyester was pegged at US$2.51 a kg and 60s

NEWS

MAKE IN INDIA

The Hon’ble Prime Minister of India has inaugurated the ‘Make in India’ movement today at a gli ering func on in Vigyan Bhavan, New Delhi. 25 sectors have been iden fied for giving a thrust under the ‘Make in India’ Programme. The Tex le sector is one of the sectors so iden fied. Shri R.K Dalmia, Chairman, Texprocil in a statement today welcomed the recogni on of Tex le Sector as a sector capable of contribu ng to the ‘Make in India’ Movement. He pointed out that there are many features of the tex le sector which have not been widely appreciated and are also li le known. Some of these are 

The sector has very low overhead as compared to the other industries.

TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | OCT - DEC 2014 www.textilevaluechain.com

It prac ces the concept of lean manufacturing.  The tex le industry has the youngest machines on its shop floor, even when compared to China, Pakistan, Vietnam, Indonesia and other tex le expor ng countries.  The machines are also operated by well trained technicians at 30% or higher opera ng speeds when compared to mills in China. Shri Dalmia also pointed out that the tex le industry is ideally placed to be the engine of future growth for crea ng crores of jobs, promo ng inclusive growth and investments in Tier 2 and Tier 3 ci es thereby contribu ng to crea on of ‘Smart Ci es’ as envisioned by the Hon’ble Prime Minister.

The tex le sector eminently met all these objec ves and should get the 70

higher levels of export benefits as it will promote labour intensive growth in the country. He pointed out that for every 1 Billion Dollar (USD) exports, 100,000 (1 Lakh) jobs are being created in the tex le sector. Shri Dalmia also stated that in order to give impetus to the Hon’ble Prime Minister’s ‘Look East and Link West’ policy the Government should expedite the signing of the Indo-EU Free Trade Agreement which will give greater access to tex le products in the western markets and simultaneously seek reduc on of du es in China for value added fabrics and home tex le items which will strengthen India’s es in the east. This will reduce the trade deficit with China which is pegged at US$ 34 billion and increase India’s exports by an addi onal US$ 3 billion.


TRADESHOW DETAILS TEMTECH Date: 11th to 13th October, 2014 Venue: Sumatex Limited Compound, Opp. V.S. International School, Pur Road, Bhilwara-311001 Organizer name : Mirror Events Management Contact details: www.temtech.in Exhibitors Profile : Manufacturer of textile Machinery

VASTRA 2014 BY FICCI Date: 29th Oct to 31st Oct 2014 Venue: Jaipur Exhibition & Convention Centre, Sitapura Industrial Area, Jaipur, Organizer name : FICCI Contact details: www.vastratex.com Exhibitor's profile: Manufacturer of Fashion Yarn, Fabric, Garment

ITF (INTERNTIONAL TEXTILE FAIR 2014) Date : 3rd & 4th November, 2014 Venue : Dubai World Trade Center, Dubai, UAE Organizer Name : NB Events & Exhibitions Contact Details : www.internationaltextilefair.com Exhibitors Profile : Manufacturer of Fabrics

GARKNIT – X Date: 21st to 23rd November, 2014 Venue: Milan Mela, Kolkatta Organizer name : Vardaan Events Contact details: www.vardaanevents.in Exhibitor's profile: Manufacture of

ITMACH 2014 Date: 10th – 13th December, 2014 Venue: Exhibition Center, Helipad Ground, Gandhinagar, Ahmedabad Organizer name: ITMACH INDIA Contact details: www.itmach.com Exhibitor's profile: Manufacture of Textile Machinery

INDIA COMPOSITES SHOW 2014 Date: 10th to 12th December, 2014 Venue: Bombay Exhibition Center, Mumbai Organizer name : Reed Manch Exhibitions Pvt. Ltd. Contact details: www.indiacompositesshow.com Exhibitor's profile: Manufacturer of Technical textiles

TEXFAIR 2015 Date : 9th- 12th January, 2015 Venue : Codissia Trade Fair Complex, Coimbatore Organizer Name : SIMA Contact Details : www.simamills.org Exhibitors Profile : Manufacture of Textile Machinery

GTTES 2015- Focus Asia Date: 20th – 22nd Jan 2015 Venue: Bombay Exhibition Center, Mumbai Organizer name : ITME Society Contact details: http://india-itme.com/GTTES2015 Exhibitor's profile: Manufacture of Textile Machinery

NATIONAL GARMENT FAIR Date : 28th & 29th Jan 2015 Venue : Bombay Exhibition Center, Mumbai Organizer : CMAI Contact detail : http://www.cmai.in/cmai-fairs-events Exhibitors profile : Manufacturer of Domestic Garment Brands

TEX TREND Date : 28th -30th Jan 2015 Venue : Pragati Maidan, New Delhi Organiser : AEPC Contact detail: http://www.textrendsindiafair.com/ Exhibitors Profile : Manufacturer/ Exporter of Garment for International Market.

KNIT TECH 2015 Date: 6th to 9th February, 2015 Venue: Hi-Tech Tirupur Exhibition Center, Tirupur Organizer name : Hi Tech Tradefair Contact details: www.hitechtradefairs.com Exhibitor's profile: Manufacturer of Machinery

FILTECH 2015 Date: 24th to 26th February, 2015 Venue: City of Cologne, Germany Organizer name : the Filtech Contact details: www.filtech.de Exhibitor's profile: Manufacturer of Filtration fabric


TRADESHOW DETAILS F & A SHOW 2015 Date: 12th to 14th March 2015 Venue: Trade Center, KTPO, Whitefield, Banglore Organizer name : S.S. TEXTILE Media Contact details: www.fnashow.in Exhibitor's profile: Manufacturer of Fabrics and Home textiles

INFASHION 2015 Date: 18th to 20th March, 2015 Venue: Bombay Exhibition Center, Mumbai

TEXTILE EXPO 2015 Date : 20th to 22nd March, 2015 Venue : SIECC, Surat Organizer Name : Textile Graph Contact detail : www.textileexpo.in Exhibitor's Profile : Manufacturer of Textile Machinery

NON WOVEN TECH ASIA 2015 Date: 5th- 7th June, 2015 Venue: Mahatma Mandir, Gandhi nagar, Gujarat

Organizer name : IMAGE Media

Organizer name : GUJNON & RADEECAL Communication

Contact details: www.indiainfashion.com

Contact details: www.nonwoventechasia.com

Exhibitor's profile: Manufacturer of Fashion Fabrics & International Brands.

Exhibitor's profile: Manufacture of Non woven , Technical textile

IIFE - AHMEDABAD 2014

Date: 14th to 16th October 2014 Venue: Andaz Lawn, S.G. Raod Ahmedabad Organizer name : Pdexcil Exhibitor's profile: Manufacturer of Fabrics and Home textiles

KNIT WORLD 2015

Date: 4th to 7th January, 2015 Venue: Ludhiana

CHINA HOME LIFE INDIA 2014 Date : 22th to 22nd November, 2014 Venue : Bombay Exhibition Center, Mumbai Contact detail : www.chinahomelifeindia.com Exhibitor's Profile : Manufacturer of Textile Fabrics

WORKSHOP ON TEXTILE EDUCATION & EMPLOYMENT OPPORTUNITY

Contact details: www.knitworldexhibition.com

Date: 29th November 2014

Exhibitor's profile: Manufacturer of knit Wear Machinery

Venue: CIRCOT , Mumbai Organizer name : Fiber Society of India Contact details:

Mr. Gurjar- 9221271971 Mr. Nachane 9820680579

CONFERENCE Global Textile Congress Techtextil India Symposium th

th

Date: 16 -17 Oct, 2014 Venue: Mumbai Organizer name: Messe Frankfurt Contact details: syed.javed@india.messefrankfurt.com International Conference on Technical Textiles and Nonwovens Date: 6- 8 November, 2014 Venue: IIT, Delhi Organizer name: Orange Zero Ltd. Contact details: www.innovationintextiles.com

Indian Textiles â&#x20AC;&#x201C; The Way Forward Date : 14th November, 2014 Venue : The Lalit, Sahar Airport Road, Andheri ( East), Mumbai Organizer name : Textile Association of India ( TAI) Contact Details : taimumbaiunit@gmail.com / taimu@mtnl.net.in

For more updated details on Indian & international events kindly watch Trade Calender / Events on www.textilevaluechain.com

Date : 13th to 15th Feb, 2015 Venue : Bangkok, Thailand Organiser Name : Textile Association of India ( TAI)

Home Fashion India Week Date : 12th & 13th March 2015 Venue : Mumbai

70th All India Conference Date : 17th & 18th January, 2014 Venue : Nagpur Organizer : TAI- Vidarbha Unit

International Cotton Conference ( Farm Fiber to Fabric) Date : 22nd & 23rd Jan 2015 Venue : Indore, MadhyaPradesh Organizer : MPACPT


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