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November 2017

Interview : Geron India / LAPP India Market Report : Yarn Report / Surat Report Brand Update : Raymond/ Liva/ Donear/ Adidas / Truetzschler Global Focus: India - Japan Asia's Most Strategic Friendship Sustainable Fibre : Soya-Bean Technical Textile Articles

Registered with Registrar of Newspapers under | RNI NO: MAHENG/2012/43707 Postal Registration No. MNE/346/2015-17 published on 5th of every month, TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN posted at Mumbai Patrika Channel Sorting Office,Pantnagar- 75, posting date 29/30 of month | Pages 60

Volume 5

Issue 11

HALL 6 Stall B-29, 30

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DN Associates represent in India the following Textile Machinery & Accessories manufacturers N.Schlumberger, France : Spinning preparatory machines for Spun and filament LONG fibres ( ANDRITZ Asselin Thibeau, France : Complete Nonwoven Lines : DrylaidNeedlepunched, Hydroentangled and others, Wetlaid, Spunlaid and special machines for chemical/hydro finishing ( Laroche SA, France: Opening and Blending Lines, Textile waste recycling Lines and “Airlay” Nonwoven Lines (Website: LACOM GmbH, Germany : Hotmelt Laminating and Coating Systems – Multi Purpose, Multi Roller, Gravure Roller and Slot Die for complete range of Technical Textiles ( Schott & Meissner, Germany : Ovens, Dryers, Heat Recovery Systems, Heating/cooling calenders, Wet/Dry cooling systems, Cutters, accumulators, Winders, Palletisers and Bonding systems (Website: Mariplast Spa, Italy : All type of Yarn Carriers for spun and filament yarns including dye tubes for filament/long fibre yarns (Website: MORCHEM S.A.U., Spain : PUR Hotmelt Adhesives for Technical Textiles, Solvent Based, Water Based adhesives, cleaners and primers markets-and-solutions/textile-lamination/ Valvan Baling Systems, Belgium : Baling and Bump forming machines for spun fibres and textiles waste recycling lines ( C + L Textilmaschinen GmbH, Germany : Reeling (Yarn Hank Forming) Machines, steaming, Bulking and Banding Machines for yarns (for Western and Southern India) ( Schmauser Precision GmbH, Germany : Pin Strips, Faller Bars, Disposable Faller Bars for Intersecting Gills and Chain Gills. Top Combs for Combing Machines in long fibre Spinning Preparatory Lines (website: Groz-Beckert Carding Belgium NV, Belgium : Clothing for Cards and Cylinders used in processing of long fibres, nonwovens and waste recycling (website:www.groz-beckert. com ) Contact : DN Associates E-mail : Website: H.O.: 406, “Kaveri” Jagannath Mandir Marg, Opp. Holiday Inn, Near Sakinaka Metro Station, Mumbai–400 072 Contact Person : Mr. Hemant Dantkale Mobile : 98201 06018 Phone No.: 022-28516018 E-mail : Regd.Office: B-310, Universal Meadows, Plot No. 27, New Sneh Nagar, Wardha Road, Nagpur – 440 015 Contact Person : Mr. Yogesh Nawandar Mobile : 98901 53766 Phone No. :0712-2289662 E-mail : Branch Offices at : Coimbatore and Ludhiana

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Infra Colour Dyeing Machine Rota Beaker Dyeing Machine with Dosing System. Rota Beaker Dyeing Machine. Glycerin Bath Beaker Dyeing Machine. (H.T.H.P Beaker Dyeing Machine) Launder -O- Meter Washing Fastness Tester. MBTL Light Fastness Tester {Texlab Make} Sublimation Fastness Tester. Digital Crock Meter {Rubbing Fastness Tester} Motor Operated. Spectro photo Meter, Japan Make and India Make. Auto-Dispensing System. (Computerized Color Kitchens). Color Matching Cabinet. Leather Color Matching Cabinet. Hot Air Oven. Pneumatic Padding Mangle Motor Operated. Laboratory Steamer with Super Heater. Perspiro Meter. Water Bath Machine with Dye Pot.

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18. Lab Stirrer/ Magnetic Stirrer with Hot Plate. 19. GSM Round Cutter GCM Cutter without Blade & Pad. 20. Digital Balance Min Cap 100gram,0.0001,0.001 & 0.01mg Accuracy 21. GSM Scale. 22. Shrinkage Scale. 23. Grey Scale AATCC& ISO 24. Borosil Glass Ware/ Lab, Testing Chemicals. All ranges of Reactive Dyes, Direct Dyes, Acid Dyes and Vet Dyes. Also Pigment Dye. 25. Vacuum Pump. 26. All type of consumables and spare supplied for the textile

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CONTENT COVER STORY 13- Gujarat Eyeing US$ 250 Mn Investment And 1 Lakh New Jobs In Apparel Manufacturing 14- Gujarat : A Lucrative Investment Destination for Textile Industry 15- Textile Machinery Scenario In India

November 2017 ISSUE EDITORIAL TEAM Editor and Publisher Ms. Jigna Shah Consulting Editor Mr. Avinash Mayekar Graphic Designer Mr. Anant A. Jogale Sales Manager Mr. Md. Tanweer Editorial Assistant Mrs. Namsha T.


Mr. Devchand Chheda City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group) Mr. Manohar Samuel President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries Dr. M. K. Talukdar VP, Kusumgar Corporates Mr. Shailendra Pandey VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon Mr. Ajay Sharma GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group)


Mr. B.V. Doctor HOD knitting, SASMIRA Dr. Ela Dedhia Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College Dr. Mangesh D. Teli Professor, Dean ICT Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay Principal Scientist and Head MPD Dr. Rajan Nachane Retired Scientist, CIRCOT

Delhi Representative office : Mr. Sudhir Verma Knit Experts 242, Pocket 3, Sector 23, Near Max Fort School, Rohini, New Delhi- 110085 Email : Tel : +91-9818026572

November 2017

INTERVIEW 18- Mr. Ashutosh Gilra, Indian Representative Of Geron Card Clothing (Jiangsu) Co., Ltd. 19- Mr. Marc Jarrault, Managing Director – Lapp Group India Pvt. Ltd.

MARKET REPORT 21- YARN REPORT 22- Fibres To Yarns Pricing Trend 23- Surat Report

BRAND UPDATE 25- Raymond FMCG Business To Expand With ‘One Park Avenue’ 26- Liva Nurturing The Future Of Ichalkaranji 27- The Promoters Of Donear Group Acquire OCM Woolen Mills 28- Adidas Originals ‘Fashion Destination Door’ Store Debuts In India 33- Truetzschler Technology – Old Is Gold! 34- ECONOMY UPDATE : Moody’s Upgrade Turns Sentiment Around For Rupee 35- GLOBAL FOCUS : India - Japan Asia’s Most Strategic Friendship

EVENT UPDATE 24- Colombiatex 2018: 39- Texfair 2017 & Farm to Finish Expo 2017 40- Buyer Seller for Powerloom Products 41- GOTS 42- Solapur’s 2nd Edition Uniform, Garment and Home Textile Expo 43- ITMA 2019

NEWS 17- Textile Sector Skill Council 37- Minister Sven-Erik Bucht , Sweden visits to Mumbai 38- Concerns Raised under Man Made Fibre sector 42- Interactive Meeting on Protech 44- SUSTAINABLE FIBRE : Clothing From Soya- Bean Fibre

TECHNICAL TEXTILE 46- Crop Management through Agro Textiles 48- Important Requirements For Anti Riot Body Protector For Police And Paramilitary Forces


Advertiser Index Back Page : Raymond Back Inside : RSWM Page 3: Bianco Page 4: OTO Corporation Page 5: SGS Innovation Page 6: Amith Garment RD Shah Page 7: Revolve Valves Page 8: JK SulzTex Page 9: DN Associates Page 10: TexLab Page 29: Haija Machinery Page 30: GTTES

Page 31: Udyog 2018 Page 32: SKBS Page 51: Liva LAPF Page 52: Sanjay Shah & Associates Page 53: LAPF Connect Page 54: Vora Associate Shailesh Engineering Page 55: Liva Studio Page 56: Rudra Digital Mahendra Textile Page 57: Sanjay Plastic Page 58: Tuff Plast



Is Revised Incentive the Best Solution for Indian Garment Export Sector?

Indian Textile and Garment industry has always been competitive in the domestic and export market. The Indian history reflects that export of Indian textile is demanded by rich economies of the world like the US and the EU regions. The export of Indian Garments flourished until 2005 i.e., pre quota period. The Indian garment exporter used to enjoy and dominate the world by the quota for specific country with special product group. After 2005, WTO announced the abolition of quota. Due to this, we lost the advantageous position we enjoyed earlier and other underdeveloped neighbouring countries went ahead in the race. After losing the special status and finding difficult to compete with neighbouring countries, the Indian exporter required all the taxes and incentives to be rebated in order to be able to export in the global market. So, the Government announced Merchandise Exports from India Scheme (MEIS). In this export promotion scheme, the exporter of readymade garments and made-ups used to get 2% incentive. Recently the Garment Association demanded revised incentive increased from 2% to 4%, which is double the rate. Subsequently, few cotton & yarn associations also started demanding that the revised incentive be made applicable for Yarn and Fabric segments also. Currently, Fabric is having only 6% share in World Fabric export. Also, cotton yarn does not have an edge over its competitors and Indian yarn prices are 5-6% higher than the other neighbouring countries. The government announced the post-GST rates for claiming rebate of state taxes under the scheme for Rebate of State levies (RoSL) on exports of readymade garments and made-ups in a bid to support the outward shipments. Recently, RoSL rate for cotton made ups have been increased from 1.55% to 2.20%. The industry is expected to have a positive reaction towards the revised incentive in this festive season. But can any industry depend only on Government support? Wish you a Merry Christmas & a Very Happy New Year 2018..!!! Ms. Jigna Shah

Editor and Publisher

All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith.


Registered Office Innovative Media and Information Co. 189/5263, Sanmati, Pantnagar, Ghatkopar (East), Mumbai 400075. Maharashtra, INDIA. Tel : +91-22-21026386 Cell: +91-9769442239 Email: Web:

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November 2017


Gujarat Eyeing US$ 250 Mn Investment And 1 Lakh New Jobs In Apparel Manufacturing State governments in India seem to have identified apparel manufacturing as a key industry to generate employment and are actively working to provide sops and support to attract mega investments. Earlier it was the eastern states of Orissa and Jharkhand which announced lucrative incentives to apparel manufacturers to counter the lack of fully developed manufacturing ecosystem in respective states. The latest state to announce a dedicated package for apparel manufacturers is none other than the “Textile State of India”- Gujarat. In October, Gujarat Government announce dseveral fiscal and non-fiscal incentives under its Garment & Apparel Policy 2017 (Textile Policy 2017).The policy aims at garnering an investment of US$ 250 mnin the state’s apparel sector over the next five years and creating1 lakh new jobs. Revamping its Textile Policy which was announced in 2012, the State Government has now identified apparel manufacturing as the engine for growth and is looking forward to attract investment in downstream value chain and create the pull effect in the entire value chain. The key highlights of the new policy are: y Interest subsidy: 5% per annum subject to a maximum of Rs. 7.5 Cr. per year for 5 years. Eligible Investment Land, Building and Plant & Machinery y Power subsidy: Subsidy @ Rs.1/unit for 5 years. y Payroll assistance: For units having minimum 150 machines and generating at least 300 domicile jobs, payroll assistance of 50% of wages will be provided up to Rs. 4000/- for female and Rs. 3200/- for male worker per month for 5 years. y Plug and Play Systems: Gujarat Industrial Development Corporation (GIDC) will develop readymade sheds (along with adequate support infrastructure) for apparel factories in select locations and provide them on long term lease or rental basis. GIDC will be provided with 50% assistance of project cost, which will be passed on to enterprises on pro rata basis. Dormitories: ƒ Assistance through GIDC: GIDC will develop dormitories in select locations and provide them on rent (minimum lock in 10 years) or long term lease basis. Dormitories will be operated by leasing entity itself. State government will provide rent assistance of 50% to enterprises. ƒ Assistance directly to private developers: 50% project cost subject to a maximum of Rs 5 Cr. Dormitories to be developed for min 250 workers with a max built up area of 50 sq. ft./ person ƒ Setting up of training institution: Assistance up to 85% with a ceiling of Rs. 3 crore of the project. Eligible investment- Building, equipment & machinery (including

November 2017

installation), electrification, furniture, etc. excluding land cost. y Setting up of training centers: Assistance of 50% subject to a maximum of Rs. 20 lakhs per center. Eligible investment- Equipment & machinery, electrification and necessary furniture y Reimbursement of tuition fee to trainees for apparel production courses: 50% of total fee charged by institution subject to a limit of up to Rs. 7,500 per trainee (Rs 10,000/- for middle level management courses) y Mega apparel park: Up to 50% of the total cost of the project with a maximum limit of Rs. 10 crore. 100% stamp duty exemption only once, for developer and first purchaser of individual unit. Out of the various incentives provided, the major attractions for the apparel investors are payroll assistance and infrastructure support in the form of plug & play set ups. Under Payroll Assistance, wage subsidy of Rs. 4,000 per month (Rs. 3,200 for male) provided will have direct, positive impact on the cost competitiveness of the apparel manufacturers in the state as it would mean approx. 3035% wage subsidy. Payroll assistance is a major fiscal support for apparel companies as wages have a major share in cost of manufacturing. In terms of cumulative fiscal benefits, the interest subsidy, power subsidy and payroll assistance would provide for almost the entire project investment in 5 years. In India, there is precedence of payroll assistance and other fiscal incentives being provided by few other states to textile and apparel sector. However, the infrastructure support being provided by Gujarat in the form of readymade sheds and dormitories is first of its kind. The state government plans to provide compliant and good, standard ready-to-move-in sheds as well as dormitories to the manufacturers at reasonable cost. Such an incentivized readymade set-up will reduce the cost of establishment and will help investors in coming up with bigger units.Though there is huge availability of manpower in the state, retaining the workforce in the apparel sector is one of the key challenges industry is facing today. Availability of dormitories near the factories will not only address this challenge but also provide compliant and hygienic habitat to the workers.China had adopted this model in late 80s when it was in its initial phase of industrialization. It established large industrial zones which provided all types of support infrastructure to the investors. Today, Ethiopia is doing the same by providing such facilities in its industrial parks. Gujarat has taken the lead in India to establish such infrastructure and significantly reduce the associated risk for investors. By providing this infrastructure support, the Government of Gujarat has


COVER STORY created a possibility for investors to set-up operations in expensive zones (with better connectivity, manpower availability, etc.) without creating their own infrastructure. As an overall package, the Textile Policy 2017 is perhaps the best one, considering the fact that the State itself is well recognized for swift business approvals and ease of doing business. In addition to this, the state has a significant fabric and yarn availability. In view of all these aspects, the policy targets set by the Gujarat government look very much achievable.

Varun Vaid Associate Director, Wazir Advisors,

Disha Acharya

Consultant, Wazir Advisors,

Gujarat : A Lucrative Investment Destination for Textile Industry Introduction Gujarat is rightly known as the “Textile State of India” as itcontributes 25%to the country’s manufacturing sector and 12% to the country’s textile exports. There are several factors that have led to the development of the textile industry in Gujarat which are analyzed below. Availability of Raw Material Gujarat is the largest producer (33%) and exporter (60%) of cottonin the country. Gujarat is also the largest producer of denim(65%) in the country and 3rdlargest in the world, with a billion metrecapacity. Gujarat is also called “Denim Capital of India”. Home to Machinery Manufacturers Gujarat is home to more than 50% of the country’s processing machinery manufacturers and 90% of weaving machinery manufacturers Boasts Plethora of Manufacturing Units Gujarat is abode to more than 1500 medium and large textile units and 600 medium and large textile processing houses. It is largest manufacturer of man-made filament fabric (38%) and man-made fiber (31%). It is also the 2ndlargest manufacturer of cotton fabric, producing over 390 million metres/annum. Gujarat manufactures 30%of the country’s woven fabric. The Sintex Industries located in Gujarat is Asia’s largest manufacturerof corduroy fabrics. Skill Development


The following institutions are located in Gujarat, which focus on skill development in the textile sector: y Ahmedabad Textile Industrial Research Association (ATIRA), Ahmedabad y Man-made Textile Research Association (MANTRA), Surat y National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), Gandhinagar y Apparel and Leather Technics (ALT) Training College, Ahmedabad y National Institute of Design (NID), Ahmedabad y Surat Education and Research Society,Surat Further, the Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, has declared ATIRA as a Centre of Excellence (CoE) for composites. The composite centre will help in the development of entire value chain of textile industry. Presence of Leading International and National Players Several national players have taken advantage of the benefits offered by the state including Arvind Mills, Welspun, VardhamanGroup, Alok Industries, Raymond, Garden Silk Mills, Mafatlal, Aditya Birla Nuvo. Some of the international players located in Gujarat are Finnish firm Ahlstrom, American firm HygienicsCorporation, Austrian firm TenCateGeosynthetics. Textile Policy Gujarat has formulated its own textile policy. Until recently, the textile industry in Gujarat was governed by the Textile Policy of 2012. To a great extent, the policy served the purpose in the segments of cotton ginning and pressing, spinning, lower-end technical textile, training centres

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COVER STORY and textile parks. However, the segments of weaving, processing, garments-apparel and high end technical textile sectors required more focus and development. In order to give a boost to the industry, the textile policy has been revised and the Textile Policy of 2017 was notified in October, 2017. The Policy aims to create 1,00,000 job. The new scheme includes interest subsidy, payroll assistance, special concessions in power tariff, plug and play systems for apparel manufacturing, support for establishing mega apparel park and skill development amongst other incentives.

testimony to the fact that Gujarat is a lucrative destination for investment. However, what remains to be seen is how the new textile policy of 2017 would be put into execution and deliver the promise of creating 1,00,000 jobs in the sector.

Conclusion Gujarat enjoys a unique position in the textile sector in India having abundance of raw material and manufacturing units. The presence of several leading in Gujarat is also a

Varsha G Subramanian, TVC – Editorial Assistant

Textile Machinery Scenario In India Technological advancement is need of the hour. The technology developers are constantly driving to produce & invent machineries that save time & make process simpler. Every now & then a new technology is introduced that brings massive change in production quantity, quality and operating time or eases the process. All these advantages come with a price, it demands additional capital investment. Today for completing a single process there are multiple technologies available that do the same work in multiple ways. So when it comes to selection of a technology for textile machineries people just don’t jump to the latest version like in the case of smart phones. A detailedcomparison of price to the need of advancement is carried out along with analysis of advantages that the technology will offer.

imported machineries worth Rs. 14,990.83 Cr. We are importing a lot of textile machinery as there are only a handful of quality machinery manufacturers in India. In spinning sector there is only one Indian manufacturerthat provides all machines for spinning having international standards. There is hardly any Indian machinery manufacturermanufacturing machines for weaving, knitting that provides high level of quality standard and performance to compete with the European manufacturers. There is hardly any manufacturer making circular knitting and flat knitting machinery. As far as processing is concerned recently there are a few manufacturers coming up but they are still establishing their setups and yet to touch to the global standards.

Global Textile machinery market is witnessing tremendous growth buoyed by growing demand of textile & apparel market. It is forecasted to grow at a CAGR of 14.02%till 2018.The major countries manufacturing textile machinery are Germany,Italy, Switzerland, France and now China. The textile technologies are available in two version low cost (semi auto) mostly manufactured in China and high cost (auto) in developed countries.

The global demand of textile machinery is rising due to growing demand of textile industry. Today, Textile machinery sourcing is majorly done from European or Japanese countries, which are relatively costly. India is strategically located from most of major textile & apparel producing countries and India has good potential to explore global opportunities & tap global market. India has to first focus on exports to the neighboring countries which are emerging as significant textile producers.

The Indian textile Machinery industry is nearly sixty years old and has more than1000 machinery and component manufacturing units. Nearly 300 units produce complete machinery and the remaining produces various textile machinery components. We all know that India is the global leader in textiles only second after China. We are having best quality of cotton and producing finest quality of yarns, fabrics & garments. But unlike China we do not have in house manufacturing of textile machineries. Most of the machineries are being imported. India in 2016-17

If we look at the Indian textile industry, we will find that even today there are a lot of textile mills still operating on older outdated versions that increase their overloads and thus ultimately leads to the shutdown of such plants. On the other hand in majority of textile units we will come across a mixed version of technologies with part of machineries having the latest & best version & few running on outdated versions. There area few Mills that have completely upgraded themselves with the technological flow. Looking at their success & profit ratio’s textile en-

November 2017


COVER STORY trepreneursin India are now exploring various options for technology advances. Today with the rising awareness of robotics & automation the textile industry is switching to “Auto” mode or at the least a “Semi-Auto” mode that has reduced the dependency on workforce. With Technological advancements gone are the days when hours & hours were spent to manually count & feed the number of products produced. Automation has brought new ease to this industry by increasing the efficiency & quality of products. The invention of auto error detecting technology helps inminimizingthe errors by discontinuing the process at the very instant when a defect is detectedso that it can be rectified&azero defect product can be delivered. Automation has madethe process much simpler & has drasticallybrought down the wastage levels. As reported by technavio research agency global automation market in the textile industry by hardware & software was valued at US$ 1,553.7 Mn. in 2016 & is estimated to grow with a CAGR of 7% till 2021. In Asia the automation market in textile industry is growing with a CAGR of 6.33%. Automated Machineries have completely changed the scenario of spinning mills. Automation has taken place in various processesright fromcotton picking and ginning which were 100% manually operated earlier to winding & rewinding. At blow room, sequence of different machines are arranged in series & connected by transport ductsfor opening, cleaning and blending to help improve the performance. Invention of machines like ring spinning, open end spinning air-jet spinning, rotor spinning, Vortex spinning, ring can spinning etc. has increased the efficiency & reduced the operating cost of spinning units by manifolds. The improvements in Ring spinning machines have taken place with inventions of drive systems, drafting systems and use of robotics. Invention of High Volume Instrument (HVI) has made possible to carry out the cotton fiber test in seconds which earlier needed a couple of hours. Automated cotton mixing helps maintain uniformity in the yarn. Introduction of auto yarn fault detection tool has improvised the production & provided uniform yarn quality. Yarn knots are now been replaced with the joints using splicing techniques like air splicing, wet splicing, hot air splicing and moist air splicing thus minimizing the defects in the produced fabric. Weaving machines have also undergone tremendous


modifications in last three decades ultimately resulting in improved quality and production. From handloom to powerlooms & now automatic shuttle andthereafter shuttleless looms have taken this industry to a new level. Shuttleless machines have not only increased productivity, efficiency but have also made possible the production of fault free fabrics. In case of Rapier looms recently various developments have taken place in filling insertion, shedding mechanism, let-off mechanism, takeup mechanism, selvedge, quick style change to name a few. In Dyeing process there are multiple stages likeDesizing, Scouring, Bleaching, Printing and Finishing. Automation has helped the dyeing process by providing the precise control on various factors which are critical for maintaining the quality like pressure, temperature, time of treatment, water level etc. Also robots are being used to pick the yarn bobbins and transport them with the help of the self-propelled bobbin carriers to the dyeing and drying machines. Unloading is also automated with the help of robotics. Automation in dyeing helps in reduced water consumption and lesser cost for treatment and water. It also helps in controlling the consumption of colour chemicals and hence increaseseffective utilization of man and machine ultimately improving production per shift. It also automates the colour matching in the dyeing process which increases the uniformity of end product & reduces a great amount of wastage. The Garmenting industry has evolved with the introduction of automation, today technologies like reconfigurable robotic handling devices, cutting table with automatic unloading, intelligent transportation system, manufacturability prediction, Virtual Tryon, 3D garment design etc. are being used worldwide. Cut fabric parts are now being collected and delivered to the next stage by automated transport system. Automation has gifted the fashion industry a precious gem to print, make & embroider any

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COVER STORY type of designs on garments at the same time. Conclusion: On one hand the technology advancement is at its peak but on the other hand all these advances demand huge capital investments. Such high capital investments will automatically be reflected on the price of end product. But as we all know, the entire textile value chain is constantly under price pressure from the brands. As compared to all other industries, the textile industry is having least profitability thereby questioning the need of additional capital investments.

that gives lower operating cost rather than an over engineered garment. As we are global leaders in Textiles next to China, we must also develop textile machinery manufacturing hub that will not only suffice our own country’s need but also source machinery to international market increasing our exports. There is a tremendous growth for machinery market worldwide and so it is time for India to capture and en-cash on this opportunity.

Branded garments even after several years remain undamaged. They are left out in closets not because they look old but because the fashion is old. The fashion is changing very fast and so ideally, we must be in position to change or buy garments with changing fashion. But the high price paid to the brands has compelled consumers to lower their shopping cycle. This over engineering of clothes must be analyzed properly. There is need to observe and study these technology developments rather than simply adopting them, we must focus on the absolute needs. We need to tone down the over technical specifications and adopt to appropriate technologies

Avinash Mayekar

MD and CEO Suvin Advisors Pvt. Ltd.

NEWS Textile Sector Skill Council Receives Champion Skill Council Award from Shri Arun Jaitley, Honourable Finance Minister Shri Arun Jaitley conferred the award, “Champion Sector Skill Council” to Textile Sector Skill Council (TSC) for its outstanding work in establishing skill-training ecosystem for Textile & Handloom industry. Shri Sanjay Kumar Jain, Chairman and Dr J V Rao, CEO of TSC received the award. The same was awarded in a function to commemorate the 3rd Foundation Day of Ministry of Skill Development and Entrepreneurship (MSDE), GoI, on 9th Nov 2017 Shri Dharmendra Pradhan, Hon’ble Minister of Petroleum & Natural Gas and MSDE, Mr. Kenji Hiramatsu, Ambassador of Japan to India, Ms. Chanda Kochhar, MD & CEO, ICICI BANK LTD., Dr. K.P. Krishnan, Secretary and Smt. Sunita Chibba, Senior Adviser, MSDE, graced the function.

mills are affiliated to TSC and have adopted the training ecosystem developed by TSC to train about 40,000 fresh trainees. TSC also facilitated to organize RPL programs and certified about 65,000 handloom and powerloom weavers of 17 states including NE and J&K. These programs helped some of the weavers in availing Pradhan Mantri Mudra Loan to become 1st generation entrepreneurs. These programs also helped a few Manipur weavers to get connected to European buyers.

The award was constituted by MSDE for the best performing skill council among the 40 sector skill councils jointly established by GoI and various industries to meet the ambitious mission of empowering Indian youth with skill training and employability. TSC over the last 3years has established industry recognized training eco system for 67 job roles, which constitutes to 80% of workforce employed by the industry. It also certified more than 1,300 trainers, who are capable to provide both class room and on-job training as per national occupational standards. Till date, about 400 textile

November 2017



Geron Card Clothing Known For Its High Skilled Technologies Brand name :Geron Company name :Geron Card Clothing (Jiangsu) Co., Ltd. Brand Tagline: Blue Diamond – Heart of Blowing- Carding

Exclusive Interview With Ashutosh Gilra, Indian Representative Of Geron Card Clothing (Jiangsu) Co., Ltd. products world class and in order to achieve that we had to invest in acquiring better quality raw material, advanced machines with latest technology and highly skilled technicians. Winning over these challenges has helped us move beyond our home country China and expand our presence in several countries. What do you consider as the biggest achievements of your company? Our company enjoys 65% market share in China and approx.. 20% in India. We enjoy majority leadership in the North India and we have also grown exponentially in the central and southern regions of India. What is your future plan for the next 5 to10 years?

What inspired you to start this company? The company was started in the year 1965to cater to the needs of indigenous Chinese card making industries. The company provided them with card clothing. Our product is a part of bigger machine called card. We have been the suppliers to all the production of card that was taking place in China since 1965. Later on, in 1987 we expanded and set up our second plant with European technology. Subsequently when private entrepreneurship was encouraged in China, the company embraced it. What are the segments in which your company operates? How diverse is your market?

We are aiming at setting up our manufacturing units in India. We see great potential in India, especially with the Make in India initiative which is a big boost for the future plans of our company. We are yet to decide where we will be setting up our units, but we have shortlisted a few places. What is the USP of your brand? The USP of our brand is technical competence and technical advancement. What is your review towards the TEXFAIR Exhibition? This is our third time here. We find this exhibition to be very useful.

We are primarily into spinning and textilemachineries. We have our presence in all countries that are in the spinning segment such as China, US, Vietnam, Thailand, Bangladesh, Pakistan, Uzbekistan, Egypt. What are the challenges or hardships faced by your company over the years? In the initial years, our company enjoyed a smooth sail as OEM supplier in the Chinese market. Once, the company moved to the open market economy, we modified our products to meet a different set of market requirements. We were working with the vision of making our


November 2017


LAPP India Customizes Cabling Solutions For You LAPP Group India Lapp Group India, a 100% subsidiary of the LAPP GROUP Germany, is a leading supplier of integrated solutions and branded products in the field of cable and connection technology. Having started its operations in 1996 with a manufacturing unit in Jigani-Bangalore, it is the second largest plant outside Germany. In 2012, Lapp Group India completed the first phase of its second manufacturing plant in Pilukedi, Bhopal. In 2014, the production area at Jigani was also doubled and a new multi core line was commissioned in Bhopal with a total investment of over 5 Million Euros. Currently, Lapp Group has the second biggest market in India. To service our customer better, we currently have 23 Sales offices along with 5 service points & 5 warehouses. We also have a strong network of 180 dealers and distributors, a state of the art laboratory and a fully-fledged Innovation & Engineering Centre. Lapp brands – ÖLFLEX®, UNITRONIC®, ETHERLINE®, HITRONIC®, EPIC®, SKINTOP®, SILVYN®, FLEXIMARK® – are some of the best-known brands in the cable technology field. Exclusive Interview with Marc Jarrault – Managing Director – LAPP Group India Pvt. Ltd. 1. Give us a brief background of LAPP Group. What inspired you to start a company in India? Headquartered in Stuttgart, Germany, Lapp Group is a leading supplier of integrated solutions and branded products in the field of cable and connection technology. Its wide range of portfolio ranges from standard and highly flexible cables for power, control and data applications, and industrial connectors, customized system solutions, robotics solutions & automation systems for the intelligent factory of the future. Lapp Group is a family run company. The founders of Lapp Group had a special affinity towards India and had foreseen potential of the Indian market in terms of rapid growth in infrastructure and industrialization in the year 1996. India has always been a key focus for themowing to

November 2017

the promising growth opportunities of the country. Lapp Group India is the second largest company of the Lapp Group. Mr. Andreas Lapp,Chairman of the Board Lapp Holding AG, is also Honorary Consul of the Republic of India for Baden-Wuerttemberg and Rhineland Palatinate. He has always urged and worked towards extending support to enhance and strengthen the trade relations between the two countries. 2. From 1996 to 2017 your company has come a long way. What according to you has contributed towards the successful expansion of your company over the years? How has your company kept pace with technological upgradation over the years? At Lapp Group India, we always strive towards improvements in methods, processes and technologies. We continuously strive towards developing our products and system solutions keeping in mind the customer requirement and our high standards of quality, safety and reliability. OLFLEX® CONNECT is our customized cable assembly solution to help offer customers with a plug and play solution in order to scale up to meet business requirement while saving on operational and capital expenditure and the cost of holding inventory at the customers’ end. LAPP Group India is ISO 9001:2008 certified. This is an international certification awarded to companies which follow the quality management principles to improve organizational performance. Both our manufacturing plants in Bangalore and Bhopal and our Sales offices across the country are certified under ISO 9001:2008. 3. What are some of the biggest challenges your company has had to face over the years? India is a challenging market. The market is price sensitive and demands world class technologies at affordable pricing. To meet this challenge, we manufacture products high in demand in India with an exception of some specialized products. Another important challenge is the infrastructure which is the key to ensuring that heavy-duty products are moved from one to place to another to ensure timely delivery. It is critical that as a country we lay more focus on developing road and rail infrastructure to fuel growth by ensuring ease of transportation of goods from one place to another. Moreover, India needs to emerge as a manufacturing hub for machines and equipments like China and Europe. ‘Make in India’ is a step towards this. This initiative will help grow the demand for cable and connection technology as well.


INTERVIEW The Government’s implementation of GST has further eased the process of doing business and is a big step towards ease of doing business and establishing India as a global manufacturing hub. 4. What are the unique attributes about your products that set them apart from the products offered by other players in the Indian market? Lapp Group is a solution provider with customizing the products according to customer’s requirement. We are the one stop shop for all your cable and connectivity requirements. We have an extensive range of more than 40,000 products which are of superior German quality. All our products comply to global standards, and come with low maintenance cost and high service life. We offer not only high quality but also technologically superior products. 5. What has been your approach towards product innovation in the textile industry? Describe your wide range of products for the textile industry. In 1996, when we started our operations in India, textile industry was one of the focus segments. We have some of the reputed textile manufacturers as our oldest customers. Lapp is re-thinking and re-defining the cable and connection technology, with focused R&D and innovation, to meet the challenges faced by the textile industry. Our offerings go further than just the cables for the power, control and data applications but also connectors, conduits, cable glands, marking systems and tools along with our OLFLEX® CONNECT customized cable assembly solution. Lapp is synonymous with innovation and we believe in developing innovative cabling products and solutions that help and assist our customers. For the textile industry, we offer tried and tested products and customized solutions, used in various stages of textile processes like spinning, weaving, knitting, fabric and garments processing. Lapp products are designed for critical applications like continuous motion, high temperature, for chemical and other harsh environments. Lapp cables are slim and light in its construction making it more flexible and can withstand high temperatures. The products are chemical/oil resistant and weather proof, with great mechanical strength. Following are few of our products that are ideal designs for the textile industry: OLFLEX® CONNECT: OLFLEX® CONNECT our customized plug ‘n’ play solution, ranges from the simple cable assemblies to industry standard servo connections and right up to sophisticated high-speed drag-chain systems, to help meet exact customer requirements. OLFLEX® CLASSIC 110 cables: These are screened PVC control cables with transparent outer sheet, designed to be flame retardant and all weather resistant.

components provide a forward-looking solution for all applications in industrial machinery and plant engineering. From transmission of simple control signals to field bus signals in complex network structures, we offer a reliable cable and connection solution. ETHERLINE® cables: High-quality data communication systems for ETHERNET technology. A secure, fast and reliable path to the future of ethernet applications and delivers an effective solution for applications in the industrial environment. EPIC® SMART: Industrial connecters designed and manufactured specifically for Asian markets with the promise of high performance at a cost-effective price. These connectors are waterproof and temperature resistant that can be used for the power and control applications in textile industry. 6. What is your take on the future scenario of cables and connected technology in the Indian market? One of the emerging trends in Data Network cabling is the use of fiber optic cables emerging as a popular medium for both new cabling installations and upgrades, over copper cables. Fiber offers a number of advantages over copper including greater bandwidth, higher speeds and greater distances, higher levels of safety and immunity to many environmental factors that otherwise affect copper. Also owing to its light weight, design and durability, the size of fiber makes it easier to handle and takes up lesser space in cabling ducts. Manufacturers have also started to offer end-to-end cabling solutions that provide the benefit of consistency to one’s network. Of the thousands of feet of cables running through a manufacturing facility, the end-to-end solution brings together all components, cable assemblies, patch panels, patch cords, connectors and adaptors. 7.What are your future plans? India is the 2nd largest market where we are growing at double digit. Apart from India we also see China as the crucial market as it is a manufacturing hub and market in US has also proved to be fruitful for us. Our vision is to become the preferred partner for cable and connection technology for our customers across all segments of the industry. We at Lapp Group India aim to double our current annual turnover and build a base of 10,000 active customers by the year 2020. This growth is expected to come from ensuring that we increase our customer base in our focus segments and also strengthen our presence in retail. To achieve long-term sustained growth, we will continue to cater to different industry segments and focus on large corporate organizations as well as SMEs & SMBs. Our key focus areas include automation, textile, F&B and infrastructure industries which have been witnessing considerable growth over the last few years.

UNITRONIC® cables: Data network cables and field bus


November 2017


Yarn exports up in October, fabrics down as exporters hit by liquidity crunch The first month of 2017-18 cotton marketing year, recorded 89 thousand bales (of 170 kg each) of shipment as against 51 thousand bales in October 2016. With 201617 marketing season (October-September) closing at 6.74 lakh bale, it implies that exports this year will be significant.

pegged at 320 lakh bales. Woven fabric export declines Woven fabric shipments could not sustain the sharp recovery of September as it hit a three-month low in October. Volumes declined 13% to 332 million sqmtrs worth

The price realization averaged (FOB) INR119 or US cents 80.8 per pound this month as against the Cotlook Index ‘A’ at 78.7 per pound Shankar-6 spot at US cents 75.4 per pound. Compared to a year ago, realization this year was US cents 7 lesser than last year but more than the ruling spot values and Cotlook ‘A’ index averages. However, a discerning trend will emerge in November this year since last year the markets were disrupted by the demonetization policy of the central government that banned high currency notes with effect from 9 November. The event had pushed peak period by almost a month and remained extended until May 2017. Bangladesh, Vietnam, and Indonesia were the largest importers of cotton with combined volumes at 82 thousand bales amongst the 11 countries that imported cotton from India in October. China was the fourth largest at 2.9 thousand bales. It was also the lowest price paying importer at US cents 62.85 per pound FOB while Bangladesh paid US cents 83 per pound on an average. Cotton Availability The Cotton Association of India released the first estimate of the country’s cotton crop for the current season (October 2017-September 2018) at 375 lakh bales as against 337.25 lakh last year. The increase this year is due to a 19% expansion in acreage compared to last season. Cotton balance sheet for this new season shows a surplus, with a closing stock of 39 lakh bales. Exports are expected at 63 million bales while domestic demand is

US$276 million or INR1,170 crore, the levels seen in July 2015, the first month of new tax regime (GST). Thus, cumulative export in the first seven months of 2017-18, was 2,450 million sqmtr, down 3.6% compared with same period a year ago. In terms of value, woven fabric export was worth US$1,990 million or INR12,680 crore. Exporters were reportedly struggling with a liquidity crunch because of delayed GST refunds, leading to the highest overall trade deficit in 35 months. In October, 143 countries imported woven fabrics from India, with Bangladesh leading, followed by Sri Lanka and UAE. The three together accounted for 34% of total woven fabrics ex-port during the month. During the month no shipment was recorded to 11 countries who had imported last year. However, they were replaced by 17 countries which imported fabric worth US$2.40 million this October. Nepal, Chad, Reunion, Afghanistan and Romania were the fastest growing markets for woven fabrics, and accounted for 3.75% of total export value in October. About 56% of woven fabrics exported were made of 100% cotton worth US$154 million (INR985 crore) with volumes at 188 million sqmtr. The average unit price realization was at US$ 0.82 a sqmtr, about US cents 5 less than a year ago. Plain fabric exports, accounting for 62% of all types of woven fabrics exported in October 2017, declined 26% in volume on year on year comparison. Shipment totaled 228 million sqmtr worth US$170 million. Bangladesh, United Arab Emirates, and Sri Lanka were the top markets for

November 2017


YARN REPORT plain fabrics. Denim, the second largest woven fabric exported in October maintain a healthy trend, in-creasing by 18% year on year in volume and 24% in value at US$ 33 million. They were mainly imported by Bangladesh with Guatemala Sri Lanka following at a distant. Denim exports to these markets were worth US$ 24 million. Shirting/suiting volumes increased sharply but values realization was down. Sarees export were hit significantly, falling over 40% year on year this October. A sharp rise in export of furnishing fabric continued into October with USA and UK dominating markets during October.

Fibres To Yarns Pricing Trend In November Cotton The expectation of a sharp fall in cotton prices remained elusive in Indian markets in November due to slow arrivals and falling yield due to pest attack. The cotton crop is set to fall significantly, say reports. The Cotton Association of India has projected 2017-18 crop output at 375 lakh bales (170 kg each). However, based on reports from mandis, CCI feels the yield will be lower by at least 10% and, with lower arrivals at the beginning of the season, the crop size may be lower. However, clarity on the crop is expected in coming weeks on the extent of damage the pink bollworm has done to the standing crop, especially in Maharashtra and Telangana, which together harvest 40% of the total crop. Usually, from November onward, daily arrival historically average 200,000 bales a day. This month, they are 30% lower. This has even dented exports prospects and may be less by 20% than previous target. Coarser variety cotton spot prices rose INR 250-1,075 per candy during November while benchmark Shankar-6 was traded down INR 975a candy, at INR 37,500 a candy on average. Finer variety cotton was cheaper by INR 900-1,675 a candy during the month. In China, cotton spot markets were under weak correction, and traders were mainly inclined to offload goods. The China Cotton Index fell 23 Yuan to close the month at an average of 15962 Yuan a ton. US cotton Futures on the ICE rose over 2% during November amid light trade and marking its biggest weekly gain in over two months during the last week, following the release of impressive US export sales data amid a weaker dollar. March contracts settled at US cents 71.73 per pound. The USDA reported net upland sales of 357,000 running bales for 2017-18 marketing year, down 30% from the previous week, but up 18% from the prior four-week


average. December contracts, facing first notice day, gained US cents 4.61 atUS cents 72.23 per pound and traded up 30 points over March. Traders not wanting to risk having to make or take delivery closed or rolled December positions prior to first notice day. Spot benchmark, Cotlook A index gained 1.8% in November at US cents 80.13 per pound. In Pakistan, cotton prices jumped as market remained panicky over the uncertainty about crop size and lint quality. In spot, spinners continued to chase quality cotton, with lint prices attaining a new peak. Availability of quality cotton was getting difficult, perturbing spinners who are exploring the option of imports. Although spinners prefer to import cotton from India the government ban has so far restricted imports from the neighbour. Reports showed that ginners have started holding stocks in anticipation of a windfall profits by disposing lint at higher rates later. Cotton Yarn Cotton yarn markets were mostly subdued in China during November amid thin transaction, and some sellers lowered their high offers slightly for some specs. Conventional varieties like 21S, 32S and 40S saw slightly better demand. Open-end cotton yarn market was steady, and the demand situation was moderate. However, discounts

November 2017

YARN REPORT were available depending on specific orders as markets held poor outlook. 21s averaged 19.35 Yuan a kg (US$ 2.93 a kg) while 32 s was at 23.22 Yuan a kg (US$ 3.51 a kg) in Shengze. In India, cotton yarn prices dropped in November with 30s combed yarn for knitting was INR2.50 cheaper on the month at INR 192 a kg (US$ 2.97a kg, down US cents 3) in Ludhiana while export offers fell US cents 5 to US$ 2.95 a kg. Polyester Polyester staple fibre prices were up in China, Pakistan and India during November. In China, as PTA futures was under fluctuation the polyester markets remained range bound. Some PSF producers were heard offloading goods on discounts later in the month. Offers for 1.4D direct-melt-spun PSF in Jiangsu and Zhejiang averaged US$ 1.37-1.39 a kg, while the same in Fujian and Shandong were at US$ 1.35-1.41 a kg, all up US cents 1-2 on the month. In Pakistan, PSF were hiked to a record level over a fresh surge in demand and prices

until mid-November in China. Prices gained Pak Rs1.50 a kg or 1.1% at Pak Rs135.50-136.50 a kg or US$1.10-1.12 a kg. In India, PSF prices gained INR 2.25 to INR 89.50 a kg or US$ 1.38 a kg. Polyester yarn prices were down in India and Pakistan and up in China. Offers for polyester yarn in China were up US cents 4 in November with 32s at US$ 2.06 a kg while 45s scaled to US$ 2.21 a kg. In India, polyester yarn 30 knit yarn fell INR 10.25 in November to INR 135.25 a kg or US$ 2.09 a kg (down US cents 15) in Ludhiana market. Polyester intermediates Purified terephthalic acid prices, which have been on a consistent uptrend since mid-October, were still on the rise but at a slower pace than earlier as demand was softer currently of the year. Producer inventories were at critical low level. Another reason for firm prices has been strong crude oil prices, giving strong support for the polyester intermediate rise to higher. Asian markers gained US$ 36.50 November with CFR China at US$ 685-687 a ton. In India, PTA priceswere up US$ 36.25 at US$ 709 a ton CIF. Mono ethylene glycol markets remained under the influence of rising crude oil values, amid increasingly bearish market sentiment in the key China market. However, falling inventories in East China supported spot markets as they were down in November to 491 thousand tons. Asian spot MEG prices gained US$ 5.50 on the month with CFR China at US$ 890-905 a ton and CFR South East Asia to US$ 921-926 a ton. In India, MEG prices gained US$10 to US$ 902 a ton CIF to average in November.

Nitin Madkaikar

Textile Beacon

SURAT UPDATE Synthetic yarn climbing new hights : Prices surge upto Rs. 10/kg. The Powerloom machinery owner of Man-Made Fibre(MMF) based industry in Surat are worried about contineous increase in yarn prices since a month. Various deniers of synthetic yarn have reached at new height in every sale. The prices of texurised yarn, FDY has incresed upto Rs. 8-10/kg. during last the month. In December’s first sale, yarn manufacturers & spinners has further tighten the prices. They again have raised the prices of POY, PTY and FDY by Rs. 1/kg.

November 2017

Though the prices are increasing, the momentum of market is weak. Due to weak demand and GST regime the weaving sector has observed three weeks long vacation this year. After Diwali vacation, weaving units are still not running at full fledged mode. Now, Powerloom weavers are worried about hike in yarn prices and are in wait and watch mode for new orders. Many workers have left the city and have not returned. In some industrial area, the powerloom units are running on one shift only. The daily MMF fabric production in the city has come down to 2 crore meter, decreased by almost 50%.


SURAT UPDATE Yarn manufacturers are arguing that because of increasing crude oil prices, the raw material PTA, MEG and chips prices have also increased. The production cost of yarn has increased and that is why yarn prices have reached to new heights. GST procedure will be rationalised : FM Jaitly assured surat traders The central government is seriously working on rationalising entire GST procedures. The GST regime has made available a big market for traders of all over the country and now it is necessary to simplify the GST structure. Exactly before two weeks of Gujarat assembly elections, Union finance minister Arun Jaitley has organised a meeting with the traders in Surat and assured them to resolve related to GST issues. Jaitley spent an hour with the textile industrialist and discussed various GST issues. He refrained from giving any promise but said that government is determined to resolve procedural and technical issues under GST. The meeting was attended by all the key leaders and representatives of powerloom weavers, textile traders and textile processors. Interacting with the textile stakeholders, Jaitley said, “I invite a group of textile industry leaders with collective representation from the industry to New Delhi. Senior tax authorities will be deputed to sort out the procedural issues. The government is working on launching the national E-way bill between January 1, 2018 to March 31,2018. The national e-way bill will allow the traders to send their goods to any part of the country, without any procedural problems.” The leaders of the different textile associations have rep-

resented their demands under new tax system. They said, the textile turn over is down by almost 50 per cent in the last few months due to GST. We have been facing procedural issues, which need to be sorted out at the earliest. The issues include quarterly filing of GST returns, abolition of reserve charge mechanism (RCM) and ITC-04. GST levied in the complex chain of textile industry has rendered a large number of workers in the entire value chain jobless or with halved salaries. Their demand is to resolve technical glitches in the GST portal and waived off all the penalties for late filing of GST returns. 89,000 powerlooms were sold as scrap in Surat : ManMohan Singh Addressing the business community in Surat former Prime Minister ManMohan said, GST is a good law but hastily implemented. The MSME sector has been hit hard. In Surat 89,000 powerlooms were sold as scrap and it led to a loss of 31,000 jobs. The impact of demonetisation is not seen even after a year it’s implementation. Unemployment is increasing and traders are in havoc. The manufacturing and turn over is down in industrial clusters and big markets across the country. Chinese companies were benefited from this situation. In FY 2016-17, India’s fabrics imports from China stood at Rs 1.96 lakh crore. During the same period in FY 2017-18, the imports from China increased to Rs 2.41 lakh crore. This unprecedented increase in imports by more than Rs 45,000 crore, a 23 per cent increase in a year, can be attributed largely to demonetisation and GST. Demonetisation and GST have also sown a deep-rooted fear of tax terrorism among the business community, he said.

EVENT UPDATE Colombiatex 2018: Italian Textile Machinery Sector Marks Significant Presence The Colombian textile and garments industry is among the most important one in America, above all with respect to the fashion sector. Thanks to a number of trade agreements undertaken with neighboring Countries, as well as with the world’s two major apparel markets (the United States and European Union), the industry has recorded further progress in recent years. At the upcoming edition of Colombiatex, the Country’s main textile trade fair, to be held in Medellin from 23 to 25 January 2018, Italy’s textile machinery manufacturers will once again play a prominent role. 24 companies will be exhibiting their latest technology in the common area set up by the Italian Trade Agency and ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers. Among Italian companies exhibiting at the common ex-


hibition space are the following ACIMIT members: Beschi, Beta, Biancalani, Btsr, Caipo, Carù, Durst, Fadis, Itema, Laip, Mactec, Marzoli, Mcs, Monti-Mac, Noseda, Ratti, Reggiani, Salvadè, Santex Rimar Group, Simet, Smit and Tecnorama. Interest on the part of Italy’s textile machinery industry for the Colombian market comes from the ongoing demand for technological updates by local manufacturers. Italian exports to the region in 2016 rose to a value of 13 million euros. Over the first six months of 2017, sales of Italian textile machinery to this market exceeded 6 million euros. Among Made in Italy production technology most in demand by Colombian textile and garments manufacturers are finishing machinery (58% of the total) and spinning machinery (16%).

November 2017


Raymond FMCG Business To Expand With ‘One Park Avenue’ Revitalizes the male grooming product portfolio y Under ‘One Park Avenue’, the brand to extend its global presence y Unified premium imagery across products and markets y Reviving Middle-East footprint and to be available in Bangladesh and Nepal y Phase 2 expansion will cover other South Asian markets in the next six months y Launches new Eau De Parfum with a new campaign – ‘Unleash your X Factor’ y Targets to be the No. 1 player in the fragrance category Raymond Group, the leading manufacturer, marketer and retailer of worsted suiting fabrics and ready-to-wear apparel, today announced ‘One Park Avenue’, a customer facing initiative for Park Avenue’s range of men’s grooming products. Resonating with the confident young male of today, One Park Avenue will entail a distinct brand, product and an aggressive Go-to-market strategy. The brand will soon make its way to international markets such as the Middle-East, Bangladesh and Nepal, with a phase 2 plan to enter South Asian markets of Sri Lanka, Bhutan and Myanmar in the next six months. The men’s grooming category is undergoing a transformation and expanding into multiple formats and sub-formats. Park Avenue is seen as a mature and sophisticated brand that is recognized as a pioneer in the male grooming space. Under the One Park Avenue initiative, the brand will have synergies in terms of a Unified Visual Identity, repositioning itself with a wider grooming portfolio, premium international packaging and innovative products. The overall brand architecture will have blue, white and black colours across product categories. Additionally, the entire range will be available through exclusive brand outlets of Park Avenue apparel along with other sales & distribution channels across India and International markets.

dients and are available in 50ml and 100ml priced at Rs 399 and Rs 699 respectively. Commenting on this initiative and exciting prospects for the FMCG business, Giriraj Bagri, CEO – FMCG Business, Raymond Ltd. said “At Raymond we are leveraging synergies across our FMCG businesses to create a strong and monolithic FMCG play in our core categories. Simultaneously we are also utilizing cross organizational expertise to bring in efficiencies and cost optimization to help us invest more aggressively towards newer initiatives such as ‘One Park Avenue’. The idea of One Park Avenue is built on unique consumer insights backed by strong innovation that will drive consumer acquisition and enhance consumer relevance for our lead brand Park Avenue. Going forward, we hope to clock exponential growth and hence a coherent unified premium imagery and identity of Park Avenue has been created for offering the same product experience globally.” RAYMOND GROUP’s FMCG PRESENCE Raymond announced the formation of its FMCG Group in 2016, with a vision to be a player of choice in the world of consumer goods, offering high quality products in both the Personal and Home Care categories. Raymond’s FMCG business currently has a strong retail presence through 0.25 million retail outlets, including 90,000 pharmacies in the country and also exports to South East Asia, Middle East and Africa. Given the strong hold in institutional sales, the business is a preferred supplier to over a 100 institutions in the country. Raymond Group recently acquired Ansell’s stake in brand KamaSutra, from joint venture entity JK Ansell Pvt. Ltd. This acquisition will pave the way for Raymond to further scale up the FMCG Business and unlock the immense potential of Brand KamaSutra globally.

Launching the initiative Gautam Hari Singhania – Chairman & Managing Director, Raymond Ltd. said, “Changing customer preferences, improved lifestyles and growing consciousness among male consumers, presents us with huge opportunities in the FMCG space. After the acquisition of Ansell’s stake earlier this year, One Park Avenue is yet another significant step that will strengthen our FMCG play both nationally and internationally, which is an important driver for value creation for the Raymond group and an integral part of the Raymond Re-Imagined journey. One Park Avenue is being led through the introduction of a new range of fine fragrances and new positioning statement “Unleash your X factor”. The new Eau De Parfums are masterblended by global perfumers with exotic ingre-

November 2017



Nurturing The Future Of Ichalkaranji Birla Cellulose, along with Ichalkarangi Shuttleless Loom Owners’ Association (ISLOA) and Ichalkarangi Shuttleless Fabric Manufacturers’ Association (ISFMA), has conducted an interactive customer meet on 21st November at Hotel Sayaji, Kolhapur with Spinners, Weavers and Processors of Ichalkaranji. The meet was aimed at making Ichalkaranji a self-sufficient hub for finished fabrics made from Viscose, Modal and Excel fibers offered by Birla Cellulose. The session was inaugurated by Mr. Chimanbhau Dange, Managing Director Deendayal Spinning Mills along with Mr. Gorakhnath Sawant, President, ISLOA and Mr. Anil Goyal, President -ISFMA. More than 200 representatives from the textile value chain fraternity have attended this customer meet where opportunities in sizing, weaving, processing and various Birla Cellulose based fabrics were discussed at length.

only add value to our existing work, but also make our fraternity explore new opportunities”, said Mr. Chimanbhau Dange, Managing Director Deendayal Spinning Mills. Considering the market demand M/s Deendayal Spinning Mills have recently started manufacturing 100% Viscose yarns and expects faster growth due to local availability if quality yarns. “We are very much thankful to Birla Cellulose for holding this event for Ichalkaranji textile value chain partners. We look forward for more closed interactions like this in future”, said Mr. Gorakhnath Sawant, President, ISLOA. “We often face technical challenges while doing some innovations. With Team Birla Cellulose and LAPF, we are sure we will overcome all the challenges and reach new heights in delivering special and innovative products”, said Mr. Anil Goyal, President ISLFMA

The session was also attended by Mr. Shyam Sunder Marda Managing Director, Arvind Cotsyn Group of Industries, Mr. Deendayal Jhanwar Managing Director, Ramakrishna Cottex, Mr. Jindas Jain, Managing Director, JP Modatex, Mr. Prasad Athani , Director, Anjaneya Cotton Mills, Mr. Arun Goenka, Director, Shiva Traders, Mr. Rashesh Modi Unit Head – Bombay Rayon Fashion Ltd., Mr. Lalit Agarwal, Director, Woven & Knit Noida and Mr. Giriraj Mohota, President, Ichalkaranji Processors Association amongst other prominent members of the fraternity. Buyers from Mumbai and Delhi were also present for networking and procuring high quality fabrics from Ichalkaranji. “Ichalkaranji has over 10,000 Shuttle Less looms and the number is growing by the day. There is an immense potential in this textile hub to adopt Viscose, Modal and Excel fibers and process them to fabrics which are in ready demand. The aim of this customer meet is to discuss the benefits for the value chain and make you all ready for new and innovative products for value creation”, said Mr. Uday Khadilkar, Vice President - Birla Cellulose. Birla Cellulose through its Liva Accredited Partner Forum (LAPF) assures that the value chain is never deficient of knowledge and support. LAPF offers Technical, Design and development, Vendor Management, Product Marketing and Market Intelligence supports to all its stakeholders. “We are glad that Birla Cellulose has conducted this meet and shared valuable technical inputs with us. This will not


November 2017


The Promoters Of Donear Group Acquire OCM Woolen Mills This acquisition makes the Donear Group India’s largest branded menswear fabric manufacturer As part of the strategy to consolidate their top position in Indian textiles industry, the promoters of Mumbai-based Donear Group have announced the acquisition of OCM Woolen Mills. The acquisition of OCM, which manufactures apremium range of high-quality all-wool and wool-blended worsted suiting fabrics, will enable the Donear Group to expand its range of products to Indian consumers for all weather conditions and for all occasions. In a win-win deal, OCM gets access to the management expertise of the promoters of Donear Groupto expand its product range and distribution footprint within India as well as in the overseas markets. The distributors of OCM, who generally witness lower sales during non-winter seasons, will be able to sell an additional range of products, especially Giza, Supima, wrinkle-resistant cotton fabric for jackets, trousers etc. and Terry Rayon fabric for suit length. Announcing the acquisition of OCM, Mr. Rajendra Agarwal, Promoter of the Donear Group said, “Home to the holy Golden Temple and spirited people, Punjab has always been special for us.Donear Group started its major take-off in 1994 from Amritsar. OCM is India’s best-quality manufacturer of woolen& worsted fabrics, and thanks to their skilled manpower for ensuring best quality of fabric. OCM’s tweed suiting material is extremely popular for Blazer &Jacket fabricacross India.No other manufacturer in India has been able to match the quality of OCM Blazer and jacket of Tweed fabric till date. We have charted out ambitious and aggressive plans to promote the OCM brand.” OCM Private Limited (formerly known as OCM India Limited) began its journey as a Textile manufacturer 1924 and forayed into worsted fabric in 1972.It has a sprawling 37-acre complex that houses anultramodern plant with 23,000spindles, 120 high-speed shuttles-less looms and a woolen processing unit, with a weaving capacity of 25,000 meters of fabric per day and an employee base of 900. OCM is the first integrated worsted woolen fabric manufacturing unit in India with the prestigious ISO 9001 certification. It is also the first Indian textile company to receive the NABL accreditation in accordance with international standard ISO 17025:2005 for its in-house Quality Assurance Laboratory.

November 2017

Originally a part of SK Birla Group (Birla VXL), OCM was acquired by private equity funds managed by WL Ross & Co. LLC in 2006. Since that acquisition, OCM has undergone extensive transformation across manufacturing, product development to revitalizeits brand and strengthen its business.OCM’s product design function is at the forefront of global styling with design office in Biella, Italy. Due to its superior product quality, institutional customers such as hospitals, airline and hospitality companies, schools and the government undertakings consider OCM as their preferred supplier of worsted fabric. OCM Woolen Mills is the second major acquisition by promoter of the Donear Group after it acquired GBTL Ltd. (formerly known as Grasim Bhiwani Textile Limited), the PV Suiting Fabrics business earlier in July this year. Like GBTL Ltd, OCM Woolen Mills will continue to operate as anindependent unit manufacturing woolen fabric products under guidance of the Donear Group management. There will not be any change in the day-to-day management or existing policies at the OCM unit.Post-acquisition, all entities will continue to focus on their respective brands as separate teams and the management will continue its efforts to strengthen and utilize their competencies to serve to their customers. Today, OCM offers an extensive product range under the following brands: ƒ Ferrara – An Italian luxury for the discerning buyer of premium Suiting & Jacketing fabrics. It is made from the blends of cashmere, mohair, silk, rose and milk fibres ƒ OCM Style - A vast spectrum of offerings with wool & wool-blended fabrics that balance affordability, latest trends and a high style quotient ƒ Siena - This range is trendy, youthful and comes in vibrant colors. It drapes well, is breathable and is light weight ƒ BOLD - Reflective of contemporary global styling, the ready-to-wearJackets, Sweaters, shirts & T-shirtsare the best choice for the modern, young Indian man ƒ Savannah - A new wave of ethnic fusion fashion with a remarkable freshness to meet the taste of the modern Indian woman With acquisition of OCM, the Donear Group will be able to offer a complete range of fabrics under a bouquet of brands including OCM,FerrinoMizzoni, GBTL-Grasim (license user of TM Grasim),Donear, Graviera, Royal Classico, Donear Cottons–Belboni&Cotonova, iTR Terry Rayon Suiting and Bronson Shirting.



Adidas Originals ‘Fashion Destination Door’ Store Debuts In India -Mumbai gets its first ever-new format hood for the city’s sneaker-heads & Originals fans The pioneering sportswear brand for the streets, adidas Originals has opened its first ever ‘Fashion Destination Door’ format store in Mumbai, India. Located in the heart of one of the city’s most coveted shopping areas on Linking Road, the Fashion Destination Door concept captures the energy of the streets turning it into a cultural epicenter. The inspiration is found in the different iconic neighborhoods of various cities, creating a global connection to a unique network of influence and cultural creativity. Spanning over 1550 square feet, this revamped new format store will house the latest, iconic and most innovative product stories. The interior design of the adidas Originals ‘Fashion Destination Door’ store combines architectural details inspired by Mumbai City’s raw aesthetics uniquely translating the spirit of the city into the store adaptations that connect with these communities’ creative youth cultures. A lounge area with furniture inspired by the Originals Superstar offers a space for intimate interaction with customers and creators alike.


In addition to showcasing a curated selection of product highlights and statement collection drops which will exclusively be available only at the Linking Road store in India, the flagship store will never go on sale; and usher in a new experience for adidas Originals fans in Mumbai with exclusive events and elevated in store experiences. The store is the latest in a global series of less than 100 adidas Originals ‘Fashion Destination Door’ concept stores across the globe and first of its kind in India. This significant store opening ratifies adidas Originals long-standing commitment to India of introducing retail hubs where customers experience the brand in unprecedented ways from a localized point-of-view. The launch of the new concept sneaker mecca will be celebrated with the showcase of Originals’most innovative styles including Superstar, Stan Smith, NMD and EQT, among others. The new FW’17 highlights include the introduction of Crazy 8, Forum, Pharrell Williams Hu Hiking and Alexander Wang.

November 2017



Contact: Suresh Saraf+91 9322 50 4449 / +91 9322 10 4449 | Nayan Saraf - +91 7498 88 1400 Office Landline - 91-22-6002 0119 / 9699 25 8834 Email : | | Website : Address: Room No.-17, Ground Floor, 342 Kalbadevi Road, Mumbai- 400002



Truetzschler Technology – Old Is Gold! Trust is a word synonymous with Truetzschler for over 125 years, and this is the main reason a small repair shop in Germany has grown into a company of global stature. The reasons Truetzschler is so trusted are simple: their products have tremendous longevity and have performed well for a period much longer than normally expected. Workmanship has always been emphasised as the basis for the solid engineering and quality of Truetzschler machines. The Germans are known to give rock solid products, and Truetzschler is a standard bearer in this regard. Right from the first card DK in 1967 running at 10 kg/hour to the present TC 10 and TC 15 cards running at 200 kg/ hour, it has been a continuous journey surpassing customer expectations with trend-setting technology products and unmatched services. At Truetzschler, since the beginning, research and development has mattered the most, and short-term cost has been a secondary aspect. This philosophy has helped in developing long lasting world class products for the textile industry. As a result, Truetzschler machines are performing to the full satisfaction of the customers even 30 years after purchase! Arvind Mills in Ahmedabad is still running the first generation DK 740 cards which were delivered in 1993. Appropriate maintenance and re-clothing at proper intervals has helped the cards to still run at their optimum speeds. A visit to the carding department shows that the cards are running with 460 cylinder RPM and still no vibrations are felt. The mill is happy with the performance and it is in no hurry to replace the cards. This itself is a testimony to the robustness of the Truetzschler technology bought by the mill almost 25 years ago.

TT Limited (unit - Gajroula Spinning Mills) is a 15,000 spindle unit in Uttar Pradesh, having 8 DK 740 cards delivered in 1992-93. The cards are still running at production rates of 45 kg/hour with a cylinder rpm of 480. The mill produces 8.5 tons of quality yarn every day. The mill also has 5 DK 780 cards delivered in 1995, running at similar production rates. . Mr B C Jain, Vice-President proudly said, “We are glad we took the decision to buy Truetzschler machines“. The many examples above show that the technology sold by Truetzschler almost 25 years ago is still giving customers the satisfaction that they made the right decision of purchasing Truetzschler machinery. The DK 740 cards at TT were amongst the first lot made by Truetzschler India Private Limited, which was formerly known as Trumac Engineering Company Private Limited. In India, the manufacturing partnership of Truetzschler with A.T.E. is celebrating 40 years this year. The ‘Customer First’ value of both the companies has always been the driving force for creating trust among Indian customers. It is this trust shown by valuable customers that has inspired Truetzschler and A.T.E. to continue providing the best technology with innovative features that no others have. With Truetzschler, it is truly apt to say that OLD IS GOLD!

Cheran Synthetic Mills (Pallavaa Group), in the quiet town of Erode, near Coimbatore in South India, has a first generation automatic bale opener BDT 013 manufactured in 1988. The bale opener is running as well as the new version automatic bale openers in the group’s nearby units. A closer look at the rail tracks reveal that there are hardly any deterioration marks on them. The maintenance team of the mill is happy with the performance. Mr DuraiPalanisamy, Executive Director of the Pallava Group, is confident that the Blendomat can still run for at least 10 more years! Raviraj Industries in Yavatmal, Maharashtra, has the unique honour of having a DK 715 running at 30 kg/hour with a hank of 0.095 Ne. The card processes 44 mm 100% polyester fibres of 1.4 denier. Mr Mahesh Agarwal, Director, informed that the card was imported as a re-sale from and says even today that “the cards are giving the best price-performance ratio to us”.

November 2017



Moody’s Upgrade Turns Sentiment Around For Rupee Falling US Dollar, Flattening US yield curve and an unabated rally in equities is a phenomenon we have got used to in the past nine months ever since thereflation trades fizzled out. Global Equities have continued to rally, unfazed by geopolitical tensions in Korea and the Middle East, rate hikes and balance sheet reduction by the US Federal Reserve, political turmoil in Spain, political stalemate in Germany, concerns over high debt levels in China. The markets seem to have taken all negative news in its stride. The euphoria, however, is not completely unjustified as Global growth has been the strongest in many years. The Purchasing Manager’s Index (PMI) is higher than 50 (indicating expansion) in more than 90% of the major economies worldwide for the first time since 2011. It is also for the first time in many years that major global central banks are moving in unison towards gradually withdrawing the unprecedented monetary policy measures that have been in place since the great financial crisis. Monetary policy divergence between the US and rest of the major economies was the primary reason for US Dollar strength. The convergence in monetary polices is therefore negative for the US Dollar. The economic data surprises (actual data versus consensus expectations) from the UK, Eurozone and Japan have been positive whereas US data has been consistently missing estimates off late. The US Federal Reserve has also played its part in communicating its policy stance effectively and preparing the markets beforehand for impending rate hikes and balance sheet reduction. This has ensured that rollback of stimulus does not spook markets. Inability of the Trump administration to push through reforms has also put a lid on the US Dollar and US yields. Amid a weaker US Dollar globally and buoyed by Moody’s upgrade of India’s sovereign rating last week, the sentiment in Rupee has again turned around (which had been temporarily soured by concerns over rising current account deficit due to falling exports and rising global crude prices). November has seen the strongest inflows into equities since March (close to USD 3Bn) and FPI inflows into the domestic debt markets have continued for the eleventh straight month. This is also the first instance since March that equity has outperformed debt in terms of FPI inflows. Since the upgrade, the Rupee has appreciated from 65.30 to 64.35. Near term outlook on the Rupee is likely to be shaped by four factors. First, the US term premium; There is a strong correlation between US term premium and ADXY (index for basket of Asian currencies). The US yield curve could steepen if US tax reforms get through and this could be a major negative for EM currencies. In addition to deficit funded tax reform (if it gets through), higher defense spending and hurricane related


expenses would also increase supply of US treasuries next year. This could lift longer-term rates, especially as the Federal Reserve would no longer be rolling over its maturing holdings. Second, fiscal slippage; Uncertainty around the indirect tax collections could result in government missing its fiscal deficit target of 3.2% for this financial year. Third, global crude prices; the OPEC would most likely extend production cuts till late 2018 but this is already factored in the price to a great extent. However, a spike in WTI above USD 60 per barrel would ring alarm bells on the current account front. Fourth; Gujarat Elections outcome; Though the BJP is likely to emerge victorious, the markets will keep an eye on the final tally of seats. If the BJP gets less than 105 seats, it could possibly trigger a sell off in domestic stocks and bonds. The RBI is likely to maintain status quo in its policy on 6th December and the US Federal Reserve is almost certain to hike the overnight Fed funds rate by 25bps in its policy on 13th December. If the Rupee appreciates in line with Asian and Emerging market currencies, we would see limited intervention from the central bank. 64.35 was the breakout zone and would be a very crucial support. Break and close below 64.35 could open room for further down side. It would be difficult for the ECB to ignore the pick up in growth in Eurozone and therefore its commentary is likely to turn more hawkish from hereon. Trimming of asset purchases is likely to push yields in Eurozone higher especially for peripheral bonds. The deadlock in Germany could end with announcement of reelection and that could possibly strengthen the position of the right wing nationalist party, AFD. The Euro could come under pressure in that scenario. A minority government of CDU/CSU and the Greens with outside support from the FDP is an option but it would be a weak coalition. The Sterling would continue to be driven by Brexit related headlines. The UK and EU are close to an agreement on the divorce bill and this could open doors for trade negotiations. This is a positive development and could prop up Sterling. 1.3150 would be an extremely crucial support on the down side.

Mr. Abhishek Goenka

(CEO & Founder : IFA Global)

November 2017


India - Japan Asia’s Most Strategic Friendship If the United States wants a free and open Indo-Pacific, as Secretary of State Rex Tillerson has urged and U.S. President Donald Trump and Japanese Prime Minister Shinzo Abe discussed at their recent meeting in Tokyo, no two powers will be as important as India and Japan. The two countries are among the most concerned countries aboutthe securityin theregion and are also increasingly ready to work with each other on it. The relationship between the two countries— historically strategically distant—has grown increasingly robust under the stewardship of Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi and Abe, with regular high-level summitry Abe traveled to Delhi to visit Modi last month combined with increasingly frequent and deepening exchanges at the diplomatic, defense, and business levels. One reason, the two countries are coming together is a common strategic anxiety about China’s rise, particularly its foreign policy ambitions in Asia. For them, Beijing’s maritime assertiveness in the East and South China Seas, as well as the Indian Ocean region, and its push to expand its geopolitical influence beyond East Asia through its Belt and Road Initiative (BRI) and Asian Infrastructure Investment Bank (AIIB) are particularly alarming. India and Japan, in response, have come to share a sense of purpose in promoting the current order in the region, which is based on transparent institutions, good governance, and international law which benefits them by ensuring secure supply chains and fair access to resources. In addition to the two countries’ shared concerns about the rise of China, there is also anxiety that U.S. credibility is weakening. Despite the efforts of the Barack Obama’s administration’s “rebalance” to the Asia-Pacific, Washington has been unable to mitigate regional concerns that its influence is diminishing. Such sentiment existed before Trump’s election as President, but it has been magnified by the Trump White House’s America First foreign policy that relies on protectionism and transactionalism rather than a more comprehensive approach to the region. The withdrawal from the Trans-Pacific Partnership (TPP)—which has recently been largely agreed to, in principle by the 11 remaining states in the deal—has

November 2017

further fueled uncertainty among U.S. partners and allies. Although the United States remains engaged in the region, through a host of bilateral and trilateral frameworks, Delhi and Tokyo see the importance of building complementary diplomatic relationships that largely align with Washington but are not led by the United States. The two have created the Japan-India-Australia trilateral dialogue, which exists independently from frameworks inclusive of the United States. This mechanism, which works at the bureaucratic level, allows Canberra, Delhi, and Tokyo to look at shared perspectives on regional security and synergies on issues such as capacity building and cooperation on humanitarian assistance and disaster relief. And in September, both sides agreed in a joint statement to align their two regional strategies: Japan’s Free and Open Indo-Pacific Strategy and India’s Act East Policy. Tokyo’s approach focuses on aligning its evolving security and defense posture, which it dubs proactive contribution to peace, with a more expansive vision of the region’s key supply chains, stretching from East Africa to Hawaii. Japan’s embrace of the “convergence of two seas”—as first outlined by Abe more than a decade ago—complements India’s regional approach, called Act East. This policy is an evolution of sorts from India’s former policy of Look East and aims to enhance India’s strategy in East Asia through stronger links to countries in the Association of Southeast Asian Nations especially Myanmar, Singapore, Vietnam, and of course Japan. China’s rapid rise and growing might in the area has created concern in Delhi and prompted the need for a stronger regional approach. On the security and defense side, there has likewise been much momentum. Japan’s Self-Defense Forces continue to increase cooperation with the Indian military, especially on maritime security issues. Tokyo and Delhi have inked deals on the sharing of military information and the exchange of defense technology. There has also been progress on finalizing India’s long-delayed plans to purchase Japan’s US-2 amphibious plane, a move that would be a building block for more defense cooperation in the coming years but has been held up for years due to India’s desire to drive down the price per unit as well as questions on the advisability of transferring defense technology. It appears that this deal may soon come through—as indicated by increasing optimism on the issue in successive Abe-Modi summits—and would represent a key next step in the strategic relationship between India and Japan. In some ways, Japan and India’s friendship is strengthening their ties with the United States as well. In 2016, Delhi and Washington concluded a long-anticipated Logistics of Exchange Memorandum Agreement, which allows each


GLOBAL FOCUS country to use the others’ facilities for refueling, repairs, and other logistical matters. Meanwhile, Tokyo has been dovetailing its efforts to improve defense with Delhi with enhancements in the U.S.-India relationship. And a few months ago, Japan’s Maritime Self-Defense Forces operated alongside the U.S. and Indian navies in the annual Malabar naval exercises. After participating as an ad hoc member for several years, Japan became a permanent member of the exercises in 2015. This year’s Malabar exercise in the Bay of Bengal brought together more than 20 ships, including Japan’s largest naval vessel, the JS Izumo, and nearly 100 aircraft from the three countries. Indeed, Malabar has been a catalyst for growing security cooperation between the United States, India, and Japan and has been complemented by a series of high-level diplomatic engagements, including a meeting of their foreign ministers in September in New York on the sidelines of the U.N. General Assembly. In turn, trilateral security cooperation has led to growing convergence between Washington and Delhi on security matters, including on Afghanistan and maritime security. In September, U.S. Secretary of Defense James Mattis visited Delhi and stressed the importance of trilateral partnerships in the region, with Japan being the most important. Indeed, despite its longstanding attachment to nonalignment, India has been increasingly emboldened under Modi to take a more forceful role in the Indo-Pacific. On the diplomatic side, Delhi has been unapologetic about its reservations about China’s BRI and refused to send any representatives to Beijing’s large inaugural BRI forum earlier this year. On the security side, Delhi has ramped up ties with the United States and Japan and also refused to back down militarily during a tense dispute with China this past September over disputed territory in neighboring Bhutan. Moreover, Delhi unambiguously signaled its concerns with Beijing’s increasing maritime assertiveness by agreeing this week to resume quadrilateral discussions with the Australia, Japan, and the United States—a move Beijing is sure to see as provocative—after a ten-year pause. There is still plenty of room for even greater cooperation between Delhi and Tokyo, particularly while both remain wary of China. Delhi sees Tokyo as a natural partner, with growing defense capabilities that has developed and nurtured a number of key relationships in the region. And Tokyo sees Delhi as a crucial geopolitical balancer that, despite some difference in strategic thinking, is increasingly willing to step up and contribute to regional security beyond its intractable conflict with Pakistan. Although India and Japan share common concerns, there is less clarity on how their strategies will converge in practice. From a maritime security perspective, Japan understandably remains predominantly concerned with open sea-lanes and checking China’s assertive behavior in the


East and South China Seas. India, meanwhile, remains focused on the Indian Ocean region, where China has expanded infrastructure and investment in Bangladesh, the Maldives, Pakistan, and Sri Lanka. But these differing regional priorities need not be a point of contention. Indeed, both sides should recognize that their interests in the expansive Indo-Pacific are complementary—that they cooperate on many issues related to maritime security without duplicating efforts. For example, both sides should routinely share their operational capabilities, for example, in defense and coast guard equipment and through training and strategies for building capacity in South and Southeast Asia. Such sharing could be formalized with other like-minded partners, especially the United States and Australia, and housed within the reemerging quadrilateral consultations. Japan and India must also finalize negotiations on Delhi’s procurement of the US-2 planes. This purchase would be a major milestone in improving their defense, industrial, and acquisition partnership while providing India with the ability to patrol its vast maritime territory, including the Andaman and Nicobar Islands. Finally, Tokyo and Delhi should work on expanding the scope of their cooperation beyond maritime issues by expanding exchanges and dialogues on such issues as counterterrorism, cybersecurity, and the protection of critical infrastructure. Robust cooperation between India and Japan has the potential to promote transparency, open sea lines, and adherence to international law in the region. But if they fail, states there will inevitably retrench to their narrower national interests and smaller regional blocs—a scenario that will favor Beijing’s approach to erode mini-lateral Arvind Sinha - CEO groupings it sees Business Advisors Group, Mumbai as antithetical to its interests.

November 2017

NEWS Minister Sven-Erik Bucht from the Ministry Of Enterprise And Innovation Sweden visits Mumbai to discuss a joint project in the area of Smart Textiles y Visited the Aditya Birla Group Textile Research Application Development Centre at Kharach in Gujarat y Met with Mr. Dilip Gaur Managing Director Grasim, Mr. Vinod Tiwari COO Grasim, of the Aditya Birla group in Mumbai y Visit aimed at strengthening cooperation between India and Sweden in the area of smart textiles y Visit is a follow up to the joint statement by Prime Minister Stefan Löfvén and Prime Minister Modi and its implementation in the areas of innovations and research Mr. Sven-Erik Bucht Minister for Rural Affairs from the Ministry Of Enterprise And Innovation Sweden arrived in Mumbai today to discuss a joint project on smart textiles involving potentially Aditya Birla Group, Swedish company Domsjö and the two governments as well as the EU. The Minister visited the Aditya Birla Group Textile Research Application Development Centre at Kharach, in Gujarat which is India’s pioneer in viscose staple fibre (VSF), a man-made, bio-degradable fibre with characteristics akin to cotton. The prime aim of this visit is to boost development on smart textiles from using viscose staple fibre (VSF), cellulosic fibre and pulp as an alternative to cotton and hence the Aditya Birla group is a natural fit with its easily blendable cellulosic fibre. Mr. Bucht also met with Mr. Dilip Gaur Managing Director Grasim, Mr. Vinod Tiwari COO, pulp and fibre business Grasim (Adity Birla Group) in Mumbai to discuss an innovative project and how to best to keep up with the growing demand for textiles with an alternate sustainable solution to cotton. The minister will also discuss the current efforts to create a circular bio-economy in Sweden and its benefits. Special emphasis will be given on how sustainable production of biomass can increase its use within a number of different sectors of society. The objective is to reduce climate effects and the use of fossil-based raw materials and to launch a discussion on a smart way of living without using up the earth’s finite resources. Sweden strongly believes that the textile industry is about to take a giant step from being a supplier of fabrics to becoming a positive force in the development of a responsi-

November 2017

ble society. Sustainable textiles are necessary to improve people’s everyday lives, the health care sector and the environment. It takes an open environment where people from many different backgrounds can meet, get involved and collaborate to find a sought-after solution and this is exactly what we are hoping for from this visit by coming together for the betterment of the society and lessen the environmental impact of the textile industry. The visit is part of the follow up to the joint statement by Prime Minister Stefan Löfvén and Prime Minister Modi and its implementation in the areas of innovations and research. It is also a follow up to the Make in India event in Stockholm where Mr. Dilip Gaur, MD & Head Pulp and Fibre Grasim Industries (Aditya Birla Group) were a part of the Indian delegation led by Mr. Suresh Prabhu Minister of Commerce & Industry of India, which aimed at exploring synergies and avenues of partnership between Indian and Swedish industries. Speaking about the collaboration between India and Sweden, Consul General for Sweden Ms. Ulrika Sundberg said “It is inspiring to see the broad range of engagement between Sweden and India particularly Maharashtra, stretching from business and infrastructure to environment, health, skills development, culture and in this instance smart textile. Textile and other closely related industries today have an important challenge when it comes to R&D and production in an environmentally friendly and socially responsible way. With a joint project on smart textiles we will prioritize the environment and work actively to integrate this in all parts of the production line. For us, sustainability, durability, quality and functionality are all important factors for developing a circular bio-economy and I truly hope this visit enhances


NEWS cooperation in tackling the same for a sustainable and healthy future” Speaking about his visit, Minister Sven-Erik Bucht said “We are keen to explore the possibility of a joint project within the area of smart textiles using viscose staple fibre (VSF), cellulosic fibre and pulp as an alternative to cotton. Together, we need a broader approach to address the challenge of climate change and we would like to share our experiences, thoughts and ideas about the practice of a circular bio economy which will help us assume our common responsibility to the environment. My visit to the Aditya Birla group is a part of the bilateral ambition to increase cooperation and trade as well as create synergies and partnerships between the two countries. The Swedish government is heavily involved in developing textile based on sustainable raw materials and we are very interested in supporting the further development of a globally successful textile industry. This in turn will help create jobs in both countries and will also lead to a sustainable and healthy future” Apart from Mumbai and Gujarat Minister Bucht will also visit Pune tomorrow and meet with Swedish companies followed by a round table discussion with i.a. Alfa Laval, DeLaval and Tetra Pak on challenges and opportunities of the food processing and dairy sector as well as its export potential. In the evening he will attend a networking dinner hosted by the Consulate General in Pune About The Consulate General of Sweden: Established in September 2012, the jurisdiction of the Swedish Consu-

late General covers Maharashtra, Gujarat and Goa – an area comprising of 173 million people. The Consulates major role in India is to develop bilateral trade relations and also grow finer insights into the Indian system through a gamut of institutions and representatives from varied industries and the regional governments. Its prime aim is to broaden and deepen this coalition with special emphasis on trade and investments. It also focuses on spreading information on Swedish innovations, technologies and services and how they could benefit India. The Consulate works closely with the Embassy of Sweden in Delhi, Business Sweden and the Swedish Chamber of Commerce as Team Sweden to help liaise and increase business contacts between Swedish and Indian companies within certain strategic sectors, such as Energy & Environmental Technology, Health Care & Life Science and ICT.


Concerns Raised Under Man Made Fiber sector The GST regime has been creating furore in the textile sector for quite some time now. Recently, S. Balaraju, Executive Director of SRTEPC has written to the Ministry of Textiles, pointing out certain anomalies, which are as follows: y GST on inputs (Manmade Fibres) is 18% and outputs (Yarns) is12%. This creates accumulation of Input Tax credit of 6% at yarn stage. Further, 12% GST on yarn and 5% on fabrics has created accumulation of Input Tax Credit at fabric stage. y Post-GST, there are various duties such as transmission charges, electricity duty, cross subsidy on electricity bills, water cess, LBTs, road tax, labourcess, etc. which are not subsumed with GST. Average percentage of such duties/ taxes of the MMF textiles is over 5% which are unrebated. Current Duty Drawback rates


are deficient to the taxes/duties paid by the exporters in this segment. y Theprocedure for refund of GST is extremely slow. The current procedure takes approximately 45-60 days’ time contrary to the stipulated time of 7 days in the IGST Act, 2017.This has blocked substantial amount of working capital and creating problem of liquidity shortage with the exporters for maintaining their existing business. GST refund on Exports which had taken place/executed in July 2017 has not been fully refunded yet. The letter makes a genuine attempt at drawing the attention of the Ministry towards the above mentioned issues and seeks redressal of these grievances in an appropriate manner.

November 2017


Texfair 2017 & Farm To Finish Expo 2017 A Win-Win Approach The Southern India Mills’ Association (SIMA), Coimbatore organized Texfair 2017 – largest expo of textile machinery, spares and other supporting services and Farm to Finish Expo 2017 – expo showcased right from farm to finished products. SIMA Chairman Shri P Nataraj welcomed the Chief Guest Shri Sanjay Jayavarthanavelu, Chairman and Managing Director of Lakshmi Machine Works Limited, Coimbatore, Shri Ajay D Shah, President of Textile Machinery and Mill Stores Merchants Association, Coimbatore, Shri Kaizar Z Mahuwala, President of Indian Textile Accessories & Machinery Manufacturer’s Association, Mumbai and the Exhibitors to the inaugural function. Deputy Chairman Shri K Vinayakam briefed about Texfair 2017 and Farm to Finish Expo 2017. Shri Ajay D Shah and Shri Kaizar Z Mahuwala offered felicitations. Vice-Chairman Shri Ashwin Chandran delivered vote of thanks. In his inaugural address the Chief Guest Shri Sanjay Jayavarthanavelu mentioned about the imbalance between various segments in the textile value chain, stressed the need for narrowing down the gaps by upgrading technology & scaling up capacities and thrown open the Expos.

The expos provided an opportunity for various clusters of the industry to know the latest improvements in technology and availability of domestic as well as import substitution spares. More than 250 exhibitors showcased their products and services in more than 300 stalls. It is worth mentioning that of the 250 exhibitors, 102 exhibitors have participated in more than five Texfair Expos. The Expos attracted about good number of visitors and created business worth Rs 500 crores. Business visitors from countries like China, Indonesia, Thailand, Bangladesh and Sri Lanka visited the Expo and derived the benefit, besides the visitors from all over the country. We thank all the exhibitors for showcasing their products and services, the CEOs of mills for visiting and deputing their technical personnel and also visitors from various textile clusters across the state and making the Expos yet another great initiative of SIMA. We are optimistic that with the Union Government’s initiatives of “Make in India”, Skill Development” and other initiatives (demonetization, GST, etc) and recovery of the global economy, Indian Textile Industry would increase its share in global Textile & Clothing business.

At the Texfair expo machinery, spares manufacturers / suppliers and other supporting service providers from China, Japan, and Switzerland apart from domestic players across the country catering to the various segments of the textile industry showcased their products and services. At the Farm to Finish Expo, various varieties of cotton, man-made fibres, regenerated fibres, various types of yarn, cloth samples, fabrics, made-ups, garments, and special clothings like sports wear, baggages, etc were exhibited by the textile mills across the country. It may be noted that Texfair 2017 is eleventh in the series and the Farm to Finish Expo 2017 is third in the series.

November 2017



Buyer Seller Meet ( B2B ) And Exhibition Of Powerloom Products y Buyer Seller Meet ( B2B ) and Exhibition of Powerloom products & textiles inaugurated by the Textile Commissioner Dr. Kavita Gupta, IAS on 26th November 2017 at Dadar (E) y There are no awareness of government promotional schemes in Powerloom Industry: Only Gujarat &Tamilnadu units are taking maximum advantage of these schemes y Apparel Export Target for the current year does not seem achievable due to the reduction in overall incentives Union Textile Ministry has recently announced Solar Energy Scheme for small powerloom units, on Grid Solar Photo Voltaic Plant (without battery back up) and Off Grid Solar Photo Voltaic Plant (with battery back up),where government will provide Rs. 2.50 lakh subsidy per unit. This will help the unit to pay back bank loans within 3-4 years, after which the unit shall getpractically free electricity, stated Textile Commissioner Dr. Kavita Gupta. Dr. Kavita Gupta further stated that Union Textile Ministry and State Government have announced several promotional schemes for powerloom textile industry but there is hardly any awareness to the schemes in the industry. The maximum benefit of these schemes have been taken by the entrepreneurs of Gujarat &Tamilnadu.

dition government has also increased ROSL rates from 0.9% to 1.6%. However, duty drawback rates have ended on 30th September 2017 and new rates have not been announced. Supposing if duty drawback rates announced are around 2 to 3%, the total incentive will be around 8%, which was 11.50 to 12% earlier. Mr. PurushottamVanga, Chairman –Powerloom Development & Export Promotion Council (PDEXCIL) informed that CMAI & PDEXCIL have recently entered into MOU for mutual benefits. Under this MOU, they will jointly organize Buyer Seller Meet in Mumbai in January 2018. Mr. Dhiraj Kothari, President –Mumbai Textiles Merchant Mahajan has stated that the government should create a web portal and include the data of Buyer Seller Meet. Mr. Vinod Chothani –Convener of Buyer Seller Meet stated that textile businessmen should offer standard quality, timely delivery and reasonable rates to increase their business. Mr. Naresh Kumar, Director –The Regional Office of The Textile Commissioner, Navi Mumbai gave the welcome address in the beginning of the event and Mr. Sivakumar S. Deputy Director proposed Vote of Thanks.

There are 25 lakh powerlooms in the country out of which 50% are in Maharashtra. There are 108 powerloom clusters in the country. There are 72 Textile parks. Mr. Rahul Mehta, President – The Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI), who was the Guest of Honour, stated that apparel export for the year 2016-17 was 16.8 billion dollars and the target for 2017-18 was 20 billion dollars. However, the export target for 2017-18 will not be attainable and likely to remain at the last year’s level. Recently, the government has raised the incentive rate from 2% to 4% for garments and made ups under Merchandised Exports From India Scheme. (MEIS). In ad-


November 2017


GOTS Pre-Conference to IFOAM Organic World Congress - Hot Spots on Social Compliance GOTS Pre-Conference to 19th Organic World Congress of IFOAM - Organics International was organized by GOTS in India Habitat Centre, New Delhi, India on 8th November, 2017. This conference was first of its kind, solely focused on ‘Social Compliance Issues in the Organic Textile Supply Chain’. Actually the GOTS accredited independent Certification Bodies report more than 1.4 million people working in GOTS certified facilities. More than 80 high profile attendees and speakers from twelve countries - including Scholars, CSR Managers and HR Representatives of companies, Certification Bodies, Standard Setters, Government and NGOs discussed about hot spots like Income Equality within countries and globally, Land Grabbing, dealing with non-compliances or how certification as a diagnostic tool could be supplemented by instruments or measures which provide a measurable continuous improvement process. Three main outcomes were agreed to put to larger scale in presenting them in Track 7.A of the 19th Organic World Congress (OWC) by the GOTS Representatives Christopher Stopes and Satoko Miyoshi: 1. Social criteria in sustainability standards help improving working conditions. Improve standards with measurable criteria and keep inspection/certification

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as a diagnostic tool. 2. In addition or – if possible – in combination find and apply suitable aspirational approaches and tools. 3. Find and apply efficient means to draw the big brands and retailers into utilizing their responsibility for sustainability of the textile industry. Dr. Elisabeth Bennett, Assistant Professor of International Affairs from Lewis & Clark College (Portland, Oregon, US) said: “The GOTS Pre-conference offered an important opportunity for supply chain actors, scholars, and sustainability advocates to discuss the most challenging problems and important opportunities in sustainability certifications for textile manufacturers. Perhaps most importantly, there was a robust discussion about the value of offering living wages to factory workers.” “The inclusion of social compliance rules into voluntary sustainability standards with their system of inspection and certification – such as GOTS - is still and will remain a valuable contribution to safeguarding the rights of working people. We are pleased that our stakeholders very openly shared their views and suggestions for the further development of GOTS”,said Herbert Ladwig, GOTS Managing Director.



Interactive Meeting on Protech The Indian Technical Textile Association (ITTA) members have interactive meeting on PROTECH with NITRA. Shri Basant Lohia, Director, Tarasafe International Ltd. was the chief Guest. Dr. Arindam Basu, DG NITRA made the presentation on NITRA activities and research & development work recently carried out by NITRA. Dr. MS Parmar Joint Director

(A) also presented the work related to COE and various developments in this field. ITTA members discussed the areas where NITRA & ITTA can work together in the field of technical textiles particularly testing & evaluation services and CE Licensing. Members also requested for development of standards on technical textiles and their release from BIS, which can satisfy domestic as well as international requirements in fast manner. Sh. Mahesh Kudav, Venus Health & Safety and other ITTA members also needed support of NITRA in making use of technical textiles / PPEs mandatory as safety gears by the Government particularly labour department in various hazardous industries like cement / chemical etc. ITTA members were very much impressed about the facilities available at NITRA specially in the field of protective and automotive textiles. Dr. Arindam Basu assured them the best services from NITRA and all concerns raised by the ITTA members will be addressed by NITRA.

EVENT REPORT Stage Set For Solapur’s 2nd Edition Uniform, Garment And Home Textile Expo The Solapur’s Uniform & Garment Fair-2017, 1st Edition held in January 2017 was organised by Shri Solapur Readymade Kapad Utpadak Sangh in association with The Textile Ministry Govt. of Maharashtra and Mafatlal Industries Ltd., at the Balaji SarovarPremierehotelgot good response. The fair which was inaugurated by Subhash Deshmukh Textile Minister, Government of Maharashtra,sawover 6000 eager buyers from across India and also delegates from countries including Sudan, Israel, Qatar, Dubai, Nigeria, Africa and Malaysia. Solapur’s 1st edition of Uniform Garment Fair 2017 was India’s premium trading and sourcing platform targeted exclusively at the uniforms, mens shirts andkids wear industry wherein buyers,manufacturers’, product innovators and industry leaders gotfirst-hand information onlatest brands and gained new business opportunities. Honorable Minister of Textiles, Co-operation and marketing Subhash Deshmukh said that Maharashtra can become hub of uniform sourcing for India which is vision of Honorable Chief Minister Devendraji Fadnavis. Takingthe Minister’s advice and following the tremendous success of the 1st Edition of the Fairthe Association decided on the same venue for the 2nd Edition on B2BUniform & Garment and Home Textile (towel and bedsheet manufacturer’s) Expo on27th, 28th and 29th January 2018. This fair will present unique blends of uniform, garment, handloomand home textile manufacturers who will dis-


play their products under one roof. This fair will be organised as per international standards at premium property in solapur. Here visitors will get a chance to interact, understand, learn and explore ideas with 200+ manufacturers, exhibitors’, merchants from Maharashtra and further open new doors for various new business ideas and help generate foreign trade. This exhibition will also feature manufacturers of uniform accessories, bags , belts, ties and more making this a single sourcing platform for all items related to school and work wear uniform. The Minister also informed that as the state has abundant labour, land and infrastructure available at cost effective pricesin cities like Solapur, Sangli and Ichalkaranji,amongst others, these cities must focus on garmenting this can be fruitful for both manufacturers’and labour. He added that new textile policy is coming soon which will be very favourable for the garments manufacturers as the state possesses a strong industrial base, peaceful workforceand a highly talented pool of people and a resources to serve entire textilevalue chainfrom cotton [farm] to fibre to fabrics to processing to garment/made-ups and through technical textile. Maharashtra’s Chief Minister,Honorable ShriDevendra Fadnavis taking note of uniqueness of this exhibition had send aletter of appeal for marketing of this exhibition. This appeal letter has been sent to around 100 + foreign missions in India and around 150+ Indian missions abroad.

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Cematex Continues To Promote Innovation Excellence With Grant For Itma 2019 Research Institutions Underscoring its commitment to innovation, the European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers (CEMATEX) will continue to promote excellence in research and development at ITMA 2019. The CEMATEX Research & Innovation Grant will help defray participation cost of eligible educational and research organisations at the Research & Innovation (R&I) Pavilion by at least 50%. Mr Fritz P. Mayer, President of CEMATEX which owns the ITMA exhibition, announced: “Innovation has always been key to the global competitiveness and sustainability of textile and garment makers. Research and development plays a critical role to help the industry develop new competitive advantages.” He added, “ITMA is an ideal platform to foster collaboration among researchers, businesses and investors. An ITMA 2015 survey revealed that more than 90% of the R&I exhibitors were able to establish new business relations and open up new markets. Hence, we are glad to continue to support these exhibitors with the CEMATEX grant for the third time.” DITF Denkendorf, one of Germany’s largest centres of textile research, has been a regular ITMA participant. Prof. Dr.-Ing. Götz T. Gresser, Member of the Board, said: “Our research activities span the entire textile value chain, from raw material to final product. As ITMA also covers solutions for the whole value chain and attracts an international audience, it provides an excellent environment for us to share our research, observe the latest market developments and meet potential partners. We are looking forward to another successful participation at ITMA 2019.” The R&I Pavilion will showcase cutting-edge textile and related research and development projects and serve to encourage collaboration among companies, research centres and universities to develop novel materials and technologies to transform the textile, garment and fashion industry. Speakers Platform In addition to providing outstanding opportunities to research organisations and universities to share their R&D achievements, the R&I Pavilion also provides an excellent

platform for participating institutes and guest industry speakers to share their latest knowledge and projects at the Speakers Platform. Dr Jon Rust, Interim Director of Zeis Textiles Extension in North Carolina State University of Textiles, enthused: “Taking part in the ITMA Research & Innovation Pavilion has helped to profile our university to a global audience. The Speakers Platform offers an additional channel to raise awareness of our research projects and facilitate knowledge transfer. With ITMA 2019 theme being ‘Innovating the World of Textiles’, we are anticipating a more exciting exhibition.” The Speakers Platform at the R&I Pavilion will feature 20-minute presentations based on the following topics: ƒ Raw materials and manufacturing technology ƒ Automation and digitalisation: Creating new opportunities in the textile and fashion industry ƒ Technical textile innovations and manufacturing technology ƒ Sustainable textile and garment manufacturing in the circular economy The R&I Pavilion at ITMA 2015 received good response from both academic and commercial organisations. It featured 40 exhibitors from 16 countries and incorporated the European Textile Research & Education Pavilion. A total of 43 speakers from various leading institutes and universities shared their insights and research projects. Organisations keen to participate in the ITMA 2019 R&I Pavilion or apply for the CEMATEX grant can visit www. or email ITMA 2019 will be held from 20 to 26 June at Fira de Barcelona, Gran Via venue. More than 50 per cent of the space has been booked since application for exhibition space started in May. The exhibition will showcase the latest technologies and sustainable solutions for the entire textile and garment manufacturing value chain in 19 chapters. In addition to machinery, exhibits will also include fibres, yarns and fabrics, as well as leasing and finance services.

be a parrot in life, be an Eagle. A parrot talks way too “ Don’t much but cant fly high but an eagle is silent and has the will power to touch the sky ” November 2017



CLOTHING FROM SOYA-BEAN FIBRE After nearly a hundred years of development, chemical synthetic fibers gradually matured in the 20th century. Despite the fact that chemical synthetic fibers (polyester, acrylic, nylon) of various features have become one of the major raw materials of the global textile industry, it has certain drawbacks which are as follows: a. It relies on gradually depleting oil resources b. Some products produce pollution during production c. The comfort of chemical fiber products is less than that of natural fibres In order to overcome the fatal weaknesses of chemical fibers, efforts will mainly be made in three aspects a. Adopting natural resources from agriculture, animal husbandry and forestry, which are abundant and cheap. b. Using production processes which must be clean and friendly to the environment c. Being more comfortable to the skin of the human body One of the fibre, which passes all above mentioned characteristics, is Soyabean fibre. It is the Healthy and Comfortable fibre of the 21st century. At present, only industrialized countries have invested heavily in developing new fibres for the new century. Soyabean is mainly cultivated for its seeds. It is widely believed that the Soyabean originated in China, 4000-5000 years ago. Soyabeans have been one of the staple foods of oriental countries for thousands of years. They are rich in a protein which resembles casein. In America, soyabeans are now cultivated in great quantity as a source of edible oils and protein. Many attempts have been made to spin this protein into useful fibres. The Ford Motor Company has pioneered in this field; production by company began in 1939 and reached more than three tons a week by 1942. The fibre was used for making car upholstery. Production was taken over in 1943 by the Drackett Products Co. of Cincinatti, but stopped after a few years. At the moment, the United States of America has become the world leader in Soyabean production with 46% of the world market. Other countries with high Soyabean production are Brazil (20%), Argentina (14%) and China (9%). Soyabean Protein Fibre (SPF) is a kind of regenerative plant fibre. It is made directly from vegetable sources rather than animal sources. It is the only renewable botanic protein fibre we can touch today. SPF is a unique Active Fibre. Its 16 amino acids are healthy and nutritional to people’s skin. Production of Soyabean fibre Soyabeans have a high protein content (about 35%) and


they are grown in abundance in U.S. and eastern countries. China has taken the world lead in the industrialized production of soyabean protein fibre. They provide a cheap and readily available source of protein for fibre production. Soyabean fibre can be obtained from soyabean. 100 kg of soyabean residue can be extracted from 40 kg of protein. There are five main steps to produce soyabean fibre. 1. Extraction of oil to obtain oil-free meal - First the beans are cleaned, cracked, decorticated and dehulled. After a conditioning step at about 70 degree c, the beans are steeped in hexane to remove the oil. The oil can be extracted by pressing and extraction. The hexane solution is drawn off and the oil is extracted from this solution. The oil free bean is known as meal. The oil is a valuable byproduct and so it is separated out. The resulting oil-free soybean meal is passed through a steam –jacketed pipe for removal of the solvent. 2. Extraction of protein - The separation of protein from the oil-free meal is accomplished by steeping the meal in dilute alkalis like 1% Sodium Sulphite for one hour to one half hour. The protein is dissolved by this treatment and can be filtered out to separate the protein. The protein is precipitated by means of acid. Sulphuric acid is added and the pH of the solution is made to 4.5. This is near the iso-electric point of Soyabean protein, i.e. at its minimum solubility and therefore will be precipitated. This Soyabean protein thus separated out is a creamy –white powder. 3. Preparation of spinning solution - The spinning solution is prepared by dissolving the extracted protein in an alkaline solution. Caustic soda is used for dissolution. The solution is filtered and deaerated by means of vacuum to remove all undissolved particles and air bubbles. After filtration, the solution is allowed to age at the requisite temperature. During the ageing period, the solution becomes more viscose and develops the proper consistency for spinning. 4. Fibre formation - Soyabean fibre is formed by wet spinning method. The spinning operation consists of forcing the spinning solution through spinneret. The spinneret consists of several holes and it is emerged in the coagulation bath. The solution emerging from the spinneret holes is referred as liquid jet. The liquid jet precipitated as fine filaments in the coagulating bath containing 2% sulphuric acid and 15% sodium sulphate or sodium chloride for dehydration. 5. After–treatments - Further treatments are required for the development of properties of the fibres like stretching and hardening. Stretching can be done in a separate bath,

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SUSTAINABLE FIBRE while the filament is soft and it induces orientation by rearrangement of the molecules and it enhances strength and durability of the filaments. Hardening can be done with formaldehyde to enhance the filaments with more strength and elasticity. The fibre performance can also be stabilized through hydroformylation. It is dried under controlled humidity and temperature, after which it is cut into desired lengths. It is then ready for shipment. PROPERTIES OF SOYABEAN FIBRE Properties Tenacity g/den Elongation ,% Density gm/cm3 Moisture regain , % Acid resistance Alkali resistance Resistance to moth/fungus

Soyabean 0.25-0.8 50 1.29 8.6 excellent good good

U.V resistance Dry breaking extension %

good 18-21

Silk 1-1.5 25-45 1.34-1.38 11.0 excellent good Resistance to fungus but not to moth bad 14-25

Wool 1.5-2.0 25-40 1.33 14-16 excellent bad Resistance to fungus but not to moth bad 25-35

Cotton 2-5.5 6-10 1.50-1.54 9 Bad Excellent Resistance to moth but not to fungus good 7-10

The Soyabean fibres are of low strength, and are sensitive to moisture to the extent of losing 69 percent of their tenacity when wet. It has better fineness, low specific gravity, high tensile elongation, and good acidic and alkali resistance. It is similar to natural fibres such as wool, silk, etc. this new fibre is considerably cheaper than real silk (around one third of the cost of silk) and can partially replace silk. Its moisture absorption performance is equivalent to cotton, and its permeability is greatly better than cotton, ensuring better comfort. The breaking strength of single filament of this fibre is over 3.0 cN/dtex, higher than the strength of wool, cotton and silk, and equivalent to chemical fibres like polyester. The fineness can reach even 0.9 dtex. The initial modulus of Soyabean protein fibre (SPF) is quite high, the boiling water shrinkage is low, and so the size stability of fabric is good. The anti-crease performance is also outstanding, and it is easily and quickly cleaned and dried. The Soyabean protein fibre (SPF) has good affinity to human skin. The natural colour of Soyabean fibre is light yellow, like the colour of silk. With good fastness to light and perspiration, it also has good dyeing brilliance and dyeing fastness in comparison with real silk products. Fabric from pure soyabean protein fibre (SPF) has got natural colour and pure with abundant fluff on the surface without pilling, excellent hand and drape and softness. Blending of Soyabean fibre The development of textile process makes the soyabean fibre able to be blended with any other fibres at any proportion, without problems in production. It can be easily blended as below a. Soyabean/ Cashmere blended fabric has natural softness and puff feeling like cashmere. It is suitable for cashmere sweater, shawl and coat.

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b. Soyabean/Silk blended fabric has good luster, draping, sweat transfer properties. It is suitable for printing silk, knitting underwear, sleepwear, shirts and evening dress. c. Soyabean / Wool blended fabric reduce the shrinkage of wool which is important for manufacturing & processing of sweater. It is suitable for wool sweater, interlock underwear and blanket. d. Soyabean/Cotton blended fabric has soft handle, good moisture absorption and better resistance to bacteria. It is suitable for men’s and women’s underwear, t-shirt, infant wear, towel and beddings. e. Soyabean/ Synthetic blended fabric has good wrinkle resistance. It is suitable for spring and summer fashion apparel, underwear, shirt and sportswear. f. Soyabean/ lycra blended fabric - by adding a small portion of lycra the fabric becomes more elastic and easier for washing and caring. It is quite active and charming. CHEMICAL PROCESSING OF SOYABEAN PROTEIN FIBRE Soyabean protein fibre (SPF) has different physical and chemical construction from natural protein fibre, care is taken in the following steps: 1.De -sizing – In pre-treatment of Soyabean fibre oil, lubricants and pigments and other additives, which are added in the production process, are removed. Desizing is done by using enzyme, alkali or oxidant desizing. Mercerization is avoided because Soyabean is unable to bear the strong caustic soda. The enzyme desizing is done by using the following recipe Amylase enzyme – 2-6 gpl. Glauber salt – 2-3 gpl. Wetting agent - 1 gpl . Temperature – 55 – 60 deg c. Time – 60 mins. 2. Scouring & Bleaching – The natural color of Soyabean is curcuma – it is difficult to remove Soyabean s pigment therefore bleaching of Soyabean is done by any three ways a. Hydrogen peroxide bleaching b. Reduction bleaching c. By using both the recipe for Hydrogen peroxide bleaching is as below: Hydrogen peroxide – 20-40 gpl. Soda ash – 3-5 gpl. Wetting agent – 2-3 gpl. Stabilizer – 3-8 gpl. pH – 11 Temperature – 92-95 deg c. Time – 60-80 mins.


SUSTAINABLE FIBRE Similarly the recipe for reduction bleaching is as below ; Rongolite – 3-8 gpl. Soda ash - 2-4 gpl. Scouring agent – 1-2 gpl. pH – 11 Temperature – 92-95 deg c . Time -60-80 mins . If required suitable optical brightener is also used. 3. Dyeing - Soyabean can be dyed using reactive, acid, basic and 1: 2 metal complex dyes. Dyes are selected according to end uses of fibres and dyeing fastness. In industry Soyabean fibre is dyed using vinyl sulphone and bifunctional type of reactive dyes. The dyeing method is just like dyeing of cotton and viscose with reactives. It can be dyed in form of loose fibre, tops, yarn, hank and fabric. (both knitted and woven).

USES OF SOYABEAN PROTEIN FIBRE (SPF) The fabric made of soyabean protein fibre shows the luster of real silk; its drapability is also very good, giving people the sense of elegance; the textile woven with high –count yarn has fine and clear grain, suitable for high– grade shell fabric for shirts. The knitting fabric which uses soyabean protein fibre has a soft and smooth handle, and the texture is light and thin, with the sense of blending real silk and cashmere. With regard to its moisture absorption and discharge performance, permeability performance, heat-retaining performance and spinning performance, this fibre is referred now as “a healthy and comfortable fibre in the 21st century.”

Dr N.N.Mahapatra President



Crop Management Through Agro Textiles Introduction: In spite of the innumerable steps taken by Government at grass root level, the present scenario of agriculture field is characterized by shrinking of per capita water availability at a remarkable level as well as low sectoral availability of water for agricultural purposes. The problem is more pronounced due to inefficient management of water at farm level especially in areas of moderate or low rainfall. The proper utilization of monsoon water is missing to a large extent which results in depletion of water resources and low agricultural productivity. On the other hand, population is continuously increasing and there is greater stress on agricultural crops to fulfill the requirement. Under such circumstances, agriculture and horticulture fields have realized the essential need to opt for various technologies which can not only increase the agricultural productivity but also help in prevention of various natural resources like soil and water. Agro textiles are one of those techniques gaining popularity in crop and water management as well as climate control. Agro textiles can be defined as textiles prepared by woven, knitted or non woven technique especially to be used for controlling and preserving environment and resources for various applications like agriculture, forestry, horticulture or landscape gardening. The usage of these textiles is designed to reduce the cost of production and improve


the quality of produce. This will also help the farmers generate higher yield while using less resources whether natural resources like water and soil or manmade like weed killers and pesticides. Lesser usage of these chemicals will not only help in bringing the input cost down but also help to prevent environment pollution and the harmful effect of extensive usage of pesticides on soil and human health can be minimized. Agro textiles transmits light in a controlled manner and helps in maintaining the soil humidity and its temperature, prevents infestation by pests, protects crops against cold, hail storms and untimely rain thus reducing the loss chances for the farmer. Desirable characteristics of Agro Textiles: For a textile to be suitable for use in agriculture and horticulture it should possess certain inherent characteristics. The first and foremost is the resistance to micro organisms prevalent in soil as the textile is bound to come in contact with soil. Its susceptibility to attack by micro organisms will make it unsuitable for use as agro textile. It should also be able to withstand solar radiation and ultra violet radiation without any degradation. To prevent any side effects of wide usage of agro textiles, they should also be bio degradable. These textiles should have extensive protection properties and durability as well as a very high potential to retain water. The textiles should have good tensile strength which can be a major factor

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TECHNICAL TEXTILE in its durability and life. These should also have good abrasion resistance properties to withstand the wear and tear of usage and climate conditions. Man made fibers are generally preferred for manufacturing of Agro Textiles because of their low cost, better durability, ease of transport and storage, although bio degradability is an issue of concern with manmade textiles. Manmade fibers like polypropylene, polyethylene, nylon and polyester are the commonly used material for making agro textiles. Various agro textiles like sun screen, wind shield, hail protection and harvesting net etc. are successfully produced using monofilament and multi filament yarns made from synthetic polymers. Utilization of non woven technique to create spun bonded fabric is extremely common for manufacturing polypropylene sheets for plant growing applications. Some natural fibers like jute and cotton are also used, where it is essential for the material to be bio degradable. However, the service life and cost of these textiles is more in comparison to synthetic substitutes. Jute is the most commonly used fiber to produce textiles for packing of agro products. Mulch mats are produced using recycled woolen fibers by using needle punched non woven technique.

as Mulch mats to cover the soil and help in suppressing weed growth. They can be both bio degradable and non bio degradable. Knitted Monofilament nets are used to create windbreak fences and shading screens to protect plants against the harmful effects of blustery weather and frosts. Cold and frost control fabric can be easily laid out directly on the plants for plant protection. Harvesting nets are used for certain fruits like Jamun where loss due to falling of fruit on ground is considerable. Apart from these, net fabrics are widely used for packing and transportation of farm produce.

Agro textiles classification:

• Agro textiles for animal husbandry and aqua culture.

Apart from manufacturing technique employed in production like weaving, knitting or non woven technique, agro textiles can also be broadly classified into various categories on the basis of their application. Hence we have different agro textiles for crop production, for horticulture, forestry and floriculture field and agro textiles for aqua culture and animal husbandry applications. Agro textiles are also available for agro engineering related applications.

In the field of animal husbandry, nylon and polyester belts are used for identification of cows and buffaloes. In the case of large udders making it uncomfortable for the animal, textile nets are used for holding purpose. Non woven fabrics are also used for filtering of milk in automatic milking machines. Textiles as fish nets have been used since ancient times. Nylon as mono or multi filament is used to create warp knitted and knotless nets by the usage of which, fishing is found to be more cost and energy efficient.

• Agro textiles for crop production These textiles are used for different aspects of crop production depending on the crop requirement and geographical location of the agriculture field. Products like sunscreen are made by warp knitted nets to protect the fields from extensive solar radiation. Knitted mono filament nets are used for production of bird protection nets to protect the crop from damage caused by birds and pests. Plant nets made of polyolefin fibers are used to prevent the decaying of fruits by keeping them away from damp soil. Polypropylene is used to produce ground cover textiles for long term weed control, moisture conservation and landscaping purpose. Wind protection nets are used to control the effect of high winds and keep out air borne sand and salt in areas close to the sea. If young plants need to be transported, root ball nets are used so that the root system is prevented from damage during transportation and replanting. To prevent insect attacks on ornamental plants and vegetables, woven and knitted polyethylene monofilament meshes are used to keep pollinating insects inside and harmful insects outside. Needle punched non woven textiles and plastic sheets are used

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• Agro textiles for horticulture, floriculture and forestry Net fabric structures, non woven materials, screens for glass and poly houses, mixed bed for mushroom cultivation and cordage and strings are some of the application of agro textiles in the field of Horticulture and Floriculture. Woven and non woven polyester fabrics having light resistant properties are used in the inner lining of green house to prevent the plants from the effect of extreme cold and hot conditions and in the outer covering of green houses to prevent exposure to excessive sun radiation.

In water management field, agro textiles are used for drip irrigation and sprinkler irrigation system, rain water harvesting and lining of farm, ponds or water reservoirs with plastics film. In a normal pond of water, drop in depth of water via seepage and evaporation is from 10.36 to 90.65 cm per day depending on the type of soil. The film used for lining is low density polyethylene which is tough and has multiple layers, has wide width to cover the water reservoir and is made by co- extrusion blown film technique. The thickness of the film is usually 100 – 250 microns. Conclusion: A number of studies have revealed that unless some concrete steps are taken, there is a probability of 10- 40 per cent loss in crop production in our country due to anticipated rise in temperature by year 2060. Hence agro textile sector is gearing hard to improve the efficiency of crop production by using suitable agro textiles so that better crop yield can be achieved year after year. It is expected that the next green revolution will be aided by agro textile technology and the advances made in this field are


TECHNICAL TEXTILE remarkable to say the least. Progress is being made in this field like usage of polymer fiber balls as a substitute to soil, knitted net hose for water transportation, super absorbent polymer fiber mats for water management in horticulture applications, use of water retention nets coated with super absorbent polymer resins and composites of hemp or polypropylene for reducing soil pol-

lutants are some of the recent developments in agro textiles which have the potential to improve crop efficiency and cost effectiveness of farming.

Dr Prerna Kapila

Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana

Important Requirements For Anti Riot Body Protector For Police And Paramilitary Forces Introduction Body protector/armor always remains an important safety cover. The history of body armors or protector is very old. Designed primarily to protect against horse kicks or falls, the body protector covers most of a rider’s torso. They also include shoulder protectors, which shield the wearer’s collarbone. They work by absorbing the intense energy created by falling off, being kicked, or stood on by a horse. History In European history, well-known armor types included the mail hauberk of the early medieval age, and the full steel plate harness worn by later Medieval and Renaissance knights, and a few key components (breast and back plates) used by heavy cavalry in several European countries until the first year of World War I (1914–15). Mail is a type of armour consisting of small metal rings linked together in a pattern to form a mesh. A coat of this armour is often referred to as a hauberk.Gradually, small additional plates or discs of iron were added to the mail to protect vulnerable areas. By the late 13th century, the knees were capped, and two circular discs, called besagews were fitted to protect the underarms. A variety of methods for improving the protection provided by mail were used as armorers seemingly experimented. Hardened leather and splinted construction were used for arm and leg pieces. The coat of plates was developed, an armor made of large plates sewn inside a textile or leather coat. Slowly and slowly these body protectors were replaced with some advanced and light weight body protectors as per the end use. Now a day’s much advanced versions of these body protectors are being used by military and paramilitary forces. Classification of Body Protectors In defense services mostly two types of body protectors are used prominently. These are i) Bullet proof jacket and ii) Stab and impact resistant body protectors. i) Bullet proof jacket: A ballistic vest or bullet-resistant vest, often called a bulletproof vest, is an item of personal


armor that helps absorb the impact and reduce or stop penetration to the body from firearm-fired projectilesand shrapnel from explosions, and is worn on the torso. Soft vests are made of many layers of woven or laminated fibers and can protect the wearer from small-caliber handgun and shotgun projectiles, and small fragments from explosives such as hand grenades. These vests often have a ballistic plate inserted into the vest. Metal or ceramic plates can be used with a soft vest, providing additional protection against rifle rounds, and metallic components or tightly woven fiber layers can give soft armour resistance to stab and slash attacks from knives and similar close-quarter weapons. ii) Stab and impact resistant body protectors: Anti riot body protector comprises helmet, neck protector, body vest, elbow protector, gloves, groin protector, thigh and leg protectors. Now a day’s the role of body protector is changed. Today body protector is any defensive covering worn to protect the body from physical attacks- such as stone, knife, LATHI etc. These body protectors are made of foam (PVC, Nitrile etc) and covered in such type of fabric which is fire, water and chemicals (acid and Alkali) repellent. The foam is also perforated to increase airflow and flexibility, and to reduce the weight. Now a day’s flame retardant foam is also being used for body protector. In India, the demand of anti riot body protector is increasing day by day by paramilitary forces (CRPF, RAF, ITBP, BSF etc) to cope with J&K like situation, where stone throwing is one of the main problem faced by them. The body protectors, also known as riot-control dress are most commonly used by the Indian paramilitary forces as personal protective equipments to protect them against various threats such as petrol bombs, knife, stabs and stone pelting while controlling the mob. These stabresistant equipments are also used by the jail security forces that face a common threat of getting attacked by knife or other sharp edged weapons. Briefly, stab threat can be classified into two categories as puncture and cut/ slash. ‘Puncture’ refers to the penetration by instruments with sharp tips but no cutting edge, such as a spike or screw-drives while ‘cut’ or ‘slash’ refers to contact with knives or scissors with continuous cutting edge.

November 2017

TECHNICAL TEXTILE Improvements required in body protector: At present in India, body protectorsare manufactured using polycarbonate sheets and rubber/foam inserts stitched with flame-retardant cotton fabric. These body protectors are mostly acceptedby states police and paramilitary forces. The present specification used by these forces for procurement of body protector is needed to be upgraded to meet the actual requirement during the riot situation. Some of the important improvements required to be incorporated in the present body protectors used in the Indian states police and paramilitary forces are given below: i) It is noticed that many of the body protector manufacturers/suppliers do not take care the comfort of movement of wearer of body protector. The trauma insert comprise of polycarbonate sheets and rubber inserts should not be wrapped around the whole torso area especially with area which move with the body movement making them vulnerable to any attack. This also restricts movements while performing any rigorous activities. Therefore while designing body protector, free body movement of wearers should be considered. ii) As polycarbonate sheets and rubber inserts are used in trauma insert, it is not breathable which makes them uncomfortable to wear for longer hours especially during summer. There is a need to create breathability in the polycarbonates sheets and rubber inserts may be by making small holes. iii) It was observed that the rubber/soft plastic inserts are being used to protect various body parts such as neck, armpit and lower abdomen areas in the currently designed body protectors, hence providing no protection to the wearer against stab (puncture) attack by screw-driver or spikes. There is a need to use better material which protect the wearers. iv) These body protectors are uncomfortable to wear in a sitting position as the lower edges often press firmly against the stomach, hip and side areas of the wearer and top of the shield places pressure on the wearer’s throat and chin area. There is a need for improvement in the designing of body protectors.

v) The foam used in the body protectors is not flame retardant. Due to this there are chances of caching fire during riot conditions. Now-a-days inherent flame retardant foams are available. These can be tried. vi) The weight of body protectors, cause significant fatigue to the security forces over the working shift. Application of better and light weight material can be used. vii) The currently available body protectors are bulky and not designed for female police and para-military soldiers. There is a need to have separate design for female wearers. viii) These body protectors are not designed to be worn concealed under outer clothing if required for discreteness. Since the worn body protectors cannot be concealed, the potential attacker is more likely to stab/slash vital areas away from the vest such as the neck or head area. The improvement in design and material can make it possible to conceal body protectors under outer clothing. ix) The woven fabrics which are currently being used to manufacture outer cover of body protectors are neither ‘inherent’ flame retardant nor cut/slash resistant i.e flameretardancy of ‘coated’ fabric may be washed out after few washing and this can easily be cut –through with sharp edged weapons.Further, the fabric used for outer cover is not having chemical resistance property. Therefore there is a need to use such type of outer fabric which is inherently flame retardant and chemical resistant. x) There is no indigenous instrument available to test stab & impact resistance of body protector. xi) There is no Indian standard available for quality and design requirementof the body protector. However recentlyBureau of Indian Standards (BIS) has formed Personal Protection Equipment for Law and Order Enforcement Agencies Subcommittee, CHD 08:SC2. This subcommittee has started working on framing specifications on body protector.


Neha Kapil

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November 2017

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