MARCH 2017 Volume 5 Issue 3
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China’s commercial and Geopolitical initiative silk road trade route Market Reports : Yarn/ Surat/ Malegaon Australian Cotton Delegation / Industry Report Brand Focus : Arvind Ltd. & ATE
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Are we ready with smart textiles?
We are in the era of the world where without smart technology & social media our life would be miserable. Smart technology upgrading our life in more comfort zone by technologically upgraded products we use in our routine life like mobile phones, household equipments, entertainment products/services, cosmetics /personal care products, automobiles, computers, travel products etc. Social media forced us to live in virtual world over real world; human mindset / values are changing from group living to nuclear living, selfless to selfish behaviour, secure to insecure life, united to broken families etc. Human are feeling lonely in the crowd so they are constantly living in virtual world & vice versa. This reality is heading towards a breakdown of traditional social set up we have created. Business world will take real advantage of this situation to earn in materialistic world, which is acceptable, if they produce sustainable and technological advance products which human can connect & feel comfortable. As the natural climatic condition is changing every year, we are heading towards unbalanced, extreme environments at any point of time. This will also have a major change in the world of textile industry. In a business world, every industry upgrading & innovating the products and services they supply to the world. Why not textile and fashion? Our industry also moving slowly from awareness of new fibres to technological advanced fashion garments. New age sustainable fabrics to technically advanced fabrics. Today entire world wanted and waiting to innovate in wearable technology, wherein garments are more functional & multipurpose than just to cover the body. Sports textiles manufacturing brands already at innovation stage & moving on as compare to other segments. Now, at next stage of innovation, World needs integration of smart mobile to smart textiles. Application which runs on garments. Are we Indians ready for next generation smart technological textiles and garments? Do our research association really doing research on these directions? As of now, Asian countries being manufacturing hub for conventional textiles, but do these countries really geared up with advance technological fabrics for which demand in near future will be generated by the world population? Let our presence in the world felt by contributing in a way we can, size does not matter. Doing best with positive intentions which makes a life and world a better place to live..! Wishing you all a Very Happy New Financial Year..!!!
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CONTENT GLOBAL FOCUS 11- China’s commercial and Geopolitical initiative silk road trade route by Mr. Arvind Sinha NEWS
March 2017 ISSUE EDITORIAL TEAM Editor & Publisher Ms. Jigna Shah Consulting Editor Mr. Avinash Mayekar Graphic Designer Mr. Anant A. Jogale Sales Manager Mr. Md. Tanweer Editorial Assistant Ms. Krupa Shah
Mr. Devchand Chheda City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group) Mr. Manohar Samuel President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries Dr. M. K. Talukdar VP, Kusumgar Corporates Mr. Shailendra Pandey VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon Mr. Ajay Sharma GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group)
EDUCATION / RESEARCH
Mr. B.V. Doctor HOD knitting, SASMIRA Dr. Ela Dedhia Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College Dr. Mangesh D. Teli Professor, Dean ICT Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay Principal Scientist & Head MPD Dr. Rajan Nachane Retired Scientist, CIRCOT
Delhi Representative office : Mr. Sudhir Verma Knit Experts 242, Pocket 3, Sector 23, Near Max Fort School, Rohini, New Delhi- 110085 Email : email@example.com Tel : +91-9818026572
12- GOTS New Version 5.0 released 20- Kate Middleton & A-list designer favourite Daniella Helayel col laborates with Koovs for the Princess collection 26- CMAI organised Seminar on Labour law & Important Acts 26- NITRA embraces Green power, goes the solar way 41- German high quality products for ironing COVER STORY: Creating Sustainable chain by Innovative Fibres 13- Innovative fibres / Yarns for Technical Textile Sector by Mr. Avinash Mayekar 15- Sustainable trends for man-made fibres – Rieter 16- FT6E & FT7E : leading edge roving frame technology – Marzoli 18- World of Textile : TVC Team 18- Do you have water balance sheet of your factory ? by Ms. Chitralekha Vaidya 21- Jammu Apparel Market by Mr. Hari Govind Mishra HR FOCUS 22- NSQF level compliance of skill development courses by Dr. Swapna Mishra 23- India, the third largest Asian economy, ranked 131 on human development Index : UN TECHNICAL TEXTILE 23- Protective work wears for workers working in cement industry by NITRA MARKET REPORT 24- Surat Report 25- Malegaon Report by Mr. Aleem Faizee 27- Yarn Report by YNFX EVENT REPORT 29- ISCI fellowship award and felicitation of Dr. K.R. Kranti, CIRCOT 30- Joint Technological conference by BTRA / NITRA/ ATIRA/SITRA 32- Australian Cotton Delegation in India / Key Challenges facing Australia’s Cotton Industry 33- Australia’s Cotton Industry in the Global Market 34- Taiwan Textile in Technotex 2017 37- Texprocess / Techtexil BRAND FOCUS 35- Arvind Limited & Invista 36- ATE partnerships
38- SHOW CALENDAR
Advertiser Index Back Page: Raymond Back Inside: Oerlikon Front Inside : Raysil Page 3: Rieter Page 4: Non Woven Tech Page 5: SGS Innovations Page 7: Indian Textile Sourcing Exhibition Page 8: SKBS
Page 9: Technotex Page 39: RSWM Page 40: Texfair Page 41: Techtextil Frankfurt Page 42: Deep Textile Page 43: ITMACH India Page 44: Sanjay Plastics Page 45: Taiwan Textiles
Page 46: Savio India
China’s Commercial & Geopolitical initiative Silk Road Trade Route Mr. Arvind Sinha CEO - Business Advisors Group Cell No. 9820062612 Email ID: firstname.lastname@example.org China is reviving the historic Silk Road trade route that runs between its own borders and Europe. Announced in 2013 by President XiJinping, the idea is that two new trade corridors – one overland, the other by sea – will connect the country with its neighbors in the west: Central Asia, the Middle East and Europe. The project has proved expensive and controversial. So why is China doing it? There are strong commercial and geopolitical forces at play here, first among which is China’s vast industrial overcapacity – mainly in steel manufacturing and heavy equipment – for which the new trade route would serve as an outlet. As China’s domestic market slows down, opening new trade markets could go a long way towards keeping the national economy buoyant. Hoping to lift the value of cross-border trade to $2.5 trillion within a decade, President Xi Jinping has channelled nearly $1 trillion of government money into the project. He’s also encouraging state-owned enterprises and financial institutions to invest in infrastructure and construction abroad. It is not an economic project, it is a geopolitical project - and it is very strategic.It’s clear that relationships with the ASEAN region, Central Asia and European countries stand to improve significantly if China directs more of its capital into developing infrastructure overseas. Moreover, by striking up economic and cultural partnerships with other countries, China cements its status as a dominant player in world affairs. “We will support the One Belt, One Road project, said President of the Asian Infrastructure Investment Bank, Jin Liquin”. But before we spend shareholders’ money, which is really the taxpayers’ money, we have three requirements.” The new trade route should be promote growth, be socially acceptable and be environmentally friendly.
nected China, Europe and Africa. In the words of Chinese President Xi Jinping: “The economic belt along the Silk Road is home to almost 3 billion people, and represents the biggest market in the world with unparalleled potential”. My Experience is that One Belt, One Road is not just a good medium for China’s openness to countries abroad it’s also a way to share Chinese experience with the countries involved. The New Silk Road policy covers both land and maritime routes, but it’s much more than a transport project. The Chinese government says it’s designed to boost global free trade and help countries coordinate their economic policies. As many as 60 nations could be included in the initiative Start with a port, and behind that you have an industrial zone and behind that you have a city so, what we offer you is a full package who wins from that? Local people one report said there were already 900 projects planned at an estimated cost of $890 billion, it’s not yet clear where all of this money will come from, But China has already set up a $50 billion Silk Road Fund to support its mission. China to run 1,000 cargo trains to Europe in 2017 BEIJING: China will run nearly 1,000 cargo trains to Europe in 2017, more than double the number from last year, as the Communist trading giant ramps up efforts to boost its dwindling exports. The cargo trains from southwest China’s Chengdu city would be doubled, the Chengdu International Railway Services Company said today. Chengdu, capital of southwest China’s Sichuan Province, ran 460 cargo trains to cities in Poland, the Netherlands and Germany last year -- more thanany other Chinese city. Chengdu delivered a total of 73,000 tonnes of goods worth 1.56 billion dollar in 2016 globally, state-run Xinhua news agency reported.
What is China’s Silk Road? It’s a government policy officially known as One Belt, One Road. It is trying to create a modern version of the ancient network of trade routes, which con-
The southwestern hub has planned three major rail line services to Europe, with a middle route to Germany, Poland and the Netherlands, a southern route to Turkey and beyond, and another northern route to Russia. This year, new routes linking Chengdu to Istanbul and Moscow will be officially launched, company chairman Fan Jun was quoted
GLOBAL FOCUS as saying by the report. The cargo trains from southwest China’s Chengdu city would be doubled, the Chengdu International Railway Services Company Trains to Istanbul and Moscow would take about 16 days and 10 days, with each route planning to operate 200 and 150 trains in 2017, respectively. China last month has launched its first freight train to London. London is the 15th city in Europe added to China-Europe freight train services. Demand for rail cargo service between China and Europe, an alternative to slower and riskier sea freight and much costlier air cargo, has exploded in recent years. • By June 2016, trains had made nearly 2,000 trips between 25 Chinese cities and Europe, with a total import and export value of $17 billion, it said. • China’s exports totalled to $2.27 trillion in 2015 slowing down from $2.34 trillion in 2014. • China’s economy grew at 6.9 per cent in 2015 slipping below seven per cent in a quarter of century. • As part of its efforts to stabilise its exports and economy, China has embarked on multibillion dollar global connectivity project called the One Belt One Road, (Silk Road).
The New Silk Road: China Launches Beijing-London Freight Train Route A general view of the first China Railway Express, a new railway line from China to Europe during the inauguration by visiting Chinese President Xi Jinping in Warsaw, Poland, on the sideline of the International Forum on the New Silk Road, Monday, 20 June 2016. The visit was intended to boost China’s infrastructure investments in Europe, and opening China’s market to Poland’s foods. On Sunday, the Chinese government launched a rail freight service between China and London. This is the first direct rail link between China and Great Britain. The route of the service will traverse from Beijing, across Asia and Europe, before terminating in London. The route is actually not new at all. It is part of the old Silk Road, which commenced in 200 BC, through which Chinese silk caravans carried wears to Europe and Africa. The trail provided much wealth and prestige for the Chinese Empire of the day. Now, Beijing is aiming to resurrect this historic trade route by using rail power. The journey is as much an engineering challenge as a logistical problem. Freight must swap trains along the way, as railway gauges vary between the connecting countries. In its 18-day journey, freight will span 7,456 miles of railways, crossing Kazakhstan, Russia, Belarus, Poland, Germany, Belgium, France and the UK. The new route unlocks a new option for shippers. Currently, the choice is two-fold. One, take an ocean-bound route, which, although cheap, can be slow. Two, use an air carrier that is considerably faster, but much more expensive. A direct rail link between Beijing and Western Europe enables manufacturers to explore new means to lower transport costs. The line may not provide a suitable alternative to all producers, but canny negotiators can leverage the new market entrant to lower prices of their established pathways by boat or plane.
Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) - New version 5.0 released: Stricter criteria for regenerated fibres & category “Combined Products” added
Version 5.0 of the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) has been released. GOTS is the worldwide recognized standard for the processing of textiles made with 95 percent (label grade “organic”) or at least 70 percent (label grade “made with organic”) certified organic fibres. GOTS’ core provisions such as the minimum content of certified organic fibers and the general bans on the use of toxic and harmful chemicals, conventional cotton, virgin polyester, GMOs, substances derived from GMOs and nanotechnology have been maintained. The criteria for the “additional fibre material” are now stricter regarding the environmentally improved and certified regenerated cellulosic fibres: The use of Viscose and Modal is now restricted to 10% (25% for sportswear and socks). Lyocell may still be used up to 30% because of its more sustainable manufacturing processes. For the first time GOTS will allow “Combined Products” such as prams with textile fabrics, bassinets, car seats or furniture with textile fabric upholstery to have certified and labelled fabric components. Regarding the GOTS social criteria an explicit section on Ethical Business Behaviour including a corruption ban was added, based on the UN Global Compact Principles. The mandatory GOTS Social Compliance Management System for the first time includes guidance on the use of tools such as SAI Social Fingerprint™ to help companies measure and improve their social performance. “Revi-
sion of GOTS always walks a fine line between strict and verifiable criteria and the needs of the market. For example, version 5.0 includes the tightening of composition requirements with respect to regenerated cellulosic fibres. On the other hand, the new possibility of combined products with fabric components certified to GOTS helps include a range of products that could not carry the GOTS label in the past. This helps to increase our contribution to sustainable development.” says Rahul Bhajekar, GOTS Director Standards Development and Quality Assurance. GOTS 5.0 is the result of a year-long revision process with multi stakeholder input which is repeated every three years. All relevant Stakeholders who operate internationally with expertise in the fields of organic production, textile colourants & chemicals, social criteria & industry, NGOs and consumer interests were invited to participate. Invited organizations included Greenpeace, Clean Clothes Campaign, Fair Labour Association, FairWear Foundation, IFOAM, ILO, Transparency International, Social Accountability International (SAI) and Textile Exchange. The list of all stakeholders and more about the revision process can be found on GOTS website (http://www.global-standard.org/the-standard/revision-procedure.html). GOTS Version 5.0, the Manual for Implementation Version 5.0, a list of relevant changes and further information regarding GOTS can be found on http://www.global-standard.org.
Innovative fibres/Yarns for Technical Textile Sector! Mr.Avinash Mayekar MD & CEO Suvin Advisors Pvt Ltd +919322906199 www.suvinindia.com
Introduction: “Continuous Innovation” is a key element in getting success in Technical textile industry. One needs to be innovative in production, process & even in marketing strategies. With the continuous advancement in various fields like healthcare and hygiene, sports, protective textiles, and growing requirements from many industries, the existing fibers is being modified and new fibers are being developed to meet specific and stringent requirements of the technical applications. The fiber and polymer technologists have been continuously innovating new fibres to meet growing demands of high performance and functional textiles. The functional property requirement varies from sector to sector e.g. it is a fibre with high tenacity, high modulus and less weight for the application of filtration and sports textiles. In the case of medical and hygiene products, it should be free from toxic and biodegradable. For protective textiles, fibers should be high resistance to corrosive chemicals and high resistance to elevated temperatures, flames and very high hydrophilic. In fact, in case of apparels, the global trend is shifting from occasion specific clothing to function based clothing where fabric properties play major role. Some of the trends like temperature sensitive& IT embedded technical garments will be gaining more importance in coming future. Increasing awareness on climatic changes like global warming, eco-friendly concept & enormous industrial growth will be leading to more focus on function based clothing than need specific clothing. These clothing consist of fibres with inherent functional properties. Technological advancement plays important role in development of high performance and specialty fibres which differ according to their specific properties & end-uses. Major High Performance Fibres: Glass Fibre: Glass fiber is the oldest and most familiar, high-performance fibre. Fibres have been manufactured from glass since the 1930s. Although early versions had high-strength, they were relatively inflexible and not suitable for several textile applications. Today’s glass fibres offer a much wider range of properties and can be found in many end uses, such as insulation, fire-resistant, and reinforcing materials for composites.
Carbon Fiber: Carbon fiber, alternatively graphite fiber, carbon graphite or CF, is a material consistCarbon Fiber ing of fibers about 5–10 μm in diameter and composed mostly of
carbon atoms. Carbon fibre may also be engineered for strength. Carbon fibre variants differ in flexibility, electrical conductivity, thermal and chemical resistance. Carbon fibre found its applications in automobile, aircraft, sport equipment and carbon electrode etc. Aramid Fiber: Aramid fiber is the best known of the high-performance, synthetic, organic fibres. Closely related to polyamides, aramids are derived from aromatic acids and amines. The high impact resistance Bullet Proof Jacket of the para-aramids makes them popular for ‘bullet-proof’ body armour. For many less demanding applications, aramids may be blended with other fibres. PBI (Polybenzimidazole): PBI (polybenzimidazole) is another fibre that takes advantage of the high stability of conjugated aromatic structures to produce high thermal resistance. The ladderlike structure of the polymer further increases the thermal stability. PBI is noted for its high cost, due to high raw material costs and a demanding manufacturing process. The high degree of conjugation in the polymer structure imparts an orange colour that cannot be removed by bleaching. When converted into fabric, it yields a soft hand with good moisture regain. PBI may be blended with aramid or other fibres to reduce cost and increase fabric strength. PBO (polyphenylenebenzobisoxazole) and PI (polyimide) are two other high- temperature resistant fibres based on repeating aromatic structures. Both are recent additions to the market. PBO Hot Gas Filtration exhibits very good tensile strength and high modulus, which are useful in reinforcing applications. Polyimide’s temperature resistance and irregular cross-section make it a good candidate for hot gas filtration applications. PPS (polyphenylene sulfide) exhibits moderate thermal stability but excellent chemical and fire resistance. It is used in a variety of filtration and other industrial applications. Melamine Fiber: Melamine fiber is primarily known for its inherent thermal resistance and outstanding heat-blocking capability in direct flame applications. This high stability is due to the crosslinked nature of the polymer and the low thermal conductivity of melamine resin. In comparison with other high-performance fibers, melamine fibres offer excellent value for products designed for direct flame contact and elevated temperature exposures. Moreover, the dielectric properties, cross-section shape and distribution make it ideal for high- temperature filtration applications. It is
COVER STORY sometimes blended with aramid or other high-performance fibres to increase final fabric strength. Fluoropolymer (PTFE, polytetrafluoroethylene) offers extremely high chemical resistance, coupled with good thermal stability. It also has an extremely low coefficient of friction, which can be either an advantage or disadvantage, depending on the use. HDPE (high-density polyethylene) can be extruded using special technology to produce very high molecular orientation. The resulting fibre combines high strength, high chemical resistance and good wear properties with light weight, making it highly desirable for applications ranging from cut-proof protective gear to marine ropes. Since it is lighter than water, ropes made of HDPE float. Its primary drawback is its low softening and melting temperature. Ceramic Fiber: High-temperature insulation wool (HTIW), known as ceramic fiber wool until the 1990s, is one of several types of synthetic mineral wool, generally defined as those resistant to temperatures above 1000°C. The first variety, aluminium silicate fibre, developed in the 1950s, was referred to as refractory ceramic fibre. Applications envisaged are in gas turbines, both aeronautical and ground-based, heat exchangers, first containment walls for fusion reactors, as well as uses for which no matrix is necessary such as candle filters for high temperature gas filtration. Alumina and silicon carbide bulk ceramics are widely used for their high stiffness and good high temperature mechanical properties in air; however, they are generally weak due to the presence of critically sized defects. Chemically Resistant Fibers: Chemically resistant organic polymeric fibres include those which are designed to resist chemical attack for acceptable periods during their service lives at both ambient and elevated temperatures. As a consequence of their inert structures they may also be flame resistant and so address markets where that property is also desirable. Fluorinated fibres: PTFE, PVF, PVDF and FEP (ARH) and Chlorinated fibres: PVDC (ARH) are Chemically resistant fibers. Thermally Resistant Fibers: Thermally resistant organic polymeric fibres include those that resist thermal degradation and some degree of chemical attack, notably oxidation, for acceptable periods during their service lives. Thermosets (HE and HS), Mela-
and as absorbent as cotton. Not only is Tencel environmentally friendly, but also is has been designed to be a lovely and wearable fiber. Modal is a semi synthetic cellulose & it is used alone or blended with other fibres. It offers soft hand-feel, good drapebility and comfort while wearing. It has good moisture regain and air permeability which is often considered better than cotton fabric; hence it is used in in household items such as pajamas, towels, bathrobes, under garments and bed sheets. It is a good material for exercise clothing and health suit, which can serve to benefit physiology circulation and health of the body. Coolmax: A trademark of Invista, is specially-engineered polyester fibre to improve “breathability” compared to natural fibres like cotton. The series of closely spaced channels creates capillary action that wicks moisture through the core and out to a wider area on the surface of the fabric which increases evaporation & now often woven with other materials like cotton, wool, Spandex and Tencel. Properties of CoolMax fabric allows wearer to keep sweat free hence it is widely used in garments of mountain climbing gear, casual sportswear, underwear & mattress covers. Other useful properties include resistance to fading, shrinking and wrinkling. Cuprammonium rayon is also a specialized fibre used in lightweight summer dresses and blouses, sometimes in combination with cotton to make textured fabrics with slubbed, uneven surfaces. Several other fibres /yarns are widely used various industrial & other functional applications like dope dyed polyester yarns used in high visibility garments; Kermel® having properties of non- inflammability, resistance to high temperature, resistance to abrasion, resistance to chemicals majorly used in protective clothing ThermoCool fibre/yarns specifically designed to optimize the body’s natural thermo regulating capabilities through unique smart fiber cross sections that provide evaporative cooling or thermobuffering according to the body’s needs. The garments produced from spun ThermoCool keep a body warm when it is cold and cool when it is hot leading to total body comfort and garment moisture management majorly used in active sports-wear. Stretch yarn which is manufactured from Elastane fibre is commonly termed as Lycra or Spandex. Its applications in industry are mostly for body confirming garments such as sportswear, foundation garments, jeans & intimate apparels which ensures a stable shape during wearing. Other outstanding features beside shape retention are higher elasticity, smooth & supple hand-feel, lower moisture regain, resistance to pilling & resistance to abrasion. Global demand of stretch yarn will soar up in coming years because of increasing population. There are other products like Organic Cotton, Compact, CSY, Melange, Slub, Multi count, Gassed, Mercerized, Fancy yarns, and Polyester/Nylon Filament yarn like DTY, FDY and POY in knitting and weaving also capturing huge markets.
mine–formaldehyde fibres, Basofil (BASF) (HE) are Thermally resistant fibres. Specialty Fibres: Different categories of specializedfibres available in market like Modal, Tencel, Coolmax, Cuproammonium Rayon, Kermel®, ThermoCool, Recron®, Bamboo, Linen, Acrylic& many more. . Tencel: Fully degradable Tencelfibre manufactured from wood pulp is soft as silk, strong as polyester, cool as linen, warm as wool
Conclusion: India has already positioned strongly in international market in terms of convectional yarns, now time has come to understand the importance of high performance and specialty fibres and yarns. Umpteen numbers of different yarns are developed in international market depending upon the properties, end-uses, different finishes, different textures and different looks. Currently most of high performance and specialty fibres are being imported from outside in India and the demand for the same
COVER STORY will be rising in future in multifold with kind of growth in the sectors like automobile, infrastructure, sports, health and hygiene & many industries etc. Indian entrepreneurs can capitalize this great untapped opportunity. Classic example is Recron®- a polyester fibre brand of Reliance Industries. It is developed in wide ranges depending on applications like Recron® Easy Stretch, Recron® FR ( Fire retardant), Recron® LP (low-pill tow and fibre), Recron® Super bright, Recron® Dyefast, Recron® Micrelle, Recron® 3S, Recron®
Superdye& many more. The fundamental strength of the Indian textile industry is its strong production base of wide range of fibre / yarns from natural fibres like cotton, jute, silk and wool to synthetic /man-made fibres like polyester, viscose, nylon and acrylic. Now, time has come to focus more on value added yarns which can fetch good margins to Indian spinners than conventional yarns& thereafter taking the final value addition in smart textiles.
Sustainable trend for man-made fibres Fibre consumption is rising and in particular, filaments are finding use in an increasing number of applications. For the short staple spinning mill, the trend is also towards man-made fibres, but especially to blends with various fibre materials. Thus the functionality of the end product can be specifically influenced. Experts agree that with growing prosperity the fibre consumption per head will continue to increase. Forecasts assume that by 2030 the worldwide fibre consumption will rise to approx. 115 milliontons (PCI, 2015) (Fig. 1). The blend in go fibres is made for two important reasons. One is that polyester is a cost-effective fibre and the raw material price is an important parameter for the whole yarn costs. The other is tha tthe yarn characteristics can be specifically influenced by blends (seealso Th. Weide, 2014, „Rieter Manual of Spinning“ Volume 7, Chapter 4). These two reasons, costs and function, as well as the limited grow the potential of cotton, mean that the share of blends willcontinue to increase. All raw materials will contribute to this growth, however filaments more than staple fibres. The share of filaments will increasefrom 39 % in 2010 to 49 % in 2030. New applications, particularly in the finer yarn count range, willcontribute to this. Filaments have good functional propertiesfor textile as well as technical applications. The development is also driven by the growing share of knitted fabric applications with icreasingly finer gauge. Notably with fine yarn counts, filaments are particularly economic.
Looking at the use of the yarns, cotton dominates the underwear sector. Viscose is also used as 100 % raw material in all applications. With technical textiles, 100 % polyester or its blends dominate. With outer wear, polyester dominat esespecially in blends with cotton and viscose as is similarly the case with home textiles (Fig. 4).
Despite this development, the consumption of short staple fibres will rise to around 58 million tons (Fig. 2).
In the short staple spinning mill, the share of cotton will decrease from 54 % in 2010 to 48 % in 2030. The absolute consumption will grow slightly from 25 million tons in 2010 to 28 million tons in 2030 (Fig. 3). Around half the fibres will be processed in the it pure form. Theot her hal fwill bespun to blended yarns. The blends from cotton with polyester dominate the blended yarns with almost 50 %.
With the increasing use of man-made fibres, new questions arise for the short staple spinning mill. The Rieter Manual of Spinning Volume 7 deals comprehensively with the technological questions (Fig. 5). To manufacture a yarn from different fibre types, the spinning mill has to fulfil two requirements: produce the right blend ratio and mix the two fibre types well. A good and evenblend is important for a uniform distribution of the fibres in the yarn diameter and on the running length of the thread. This, so that at every point in the yarn the blended fibre types appear in thesame ratio. The fibre there fore has the samecharacteristics, such as strength and dyeing capacity, at every point.
FT6E and FT7E: leading-edge roving frame technology Introduction Few machines in a modern spinning mill are as critical as the roving frame. Building a solid and reliable roving frame is not an easy task and yet again it is absolutely necessary for the spinner as this machine can feed, depending on the count being produced, thousands of spindles at the spinning frames. Marzoli, the only European manufacturer of the full line of machines for spinning of short staple fibers with over 150 roving frames being sold every year worldwide, is the ideal referent for whoever wants to choose the best technology. Its FT6E and FT7E represent a state-of-the-art solution, yielding the best results for efficiency, reliability and quality. The article aims at presenting from a technical and technological point of view these machines. Drive system The FT6E and FT7E are driven by independent drives for the drafting system, the flyers, the spindles and the bobbin rail. Every drive is coordinated by the central CPU which ensures perfect synchronization of all the movements involved in bobbin formation. The spindles drive is a group drive where motion is transmitted through toothed belts. In traditional machines spindles are moved by one motor which, through a long shaft, transmits motion to bevel gears which drive pulleys that drive belts which ultimately make spindles rotate. A group drive allows to substantially simplify this transmission system. The drive comprises several motors, each one driving a limited number of spindles. Each motor, through a pulley, drives toothed belts which transmit motion directly to the spindles. Shafts, gear boxes and bevel gears are eliminated. Therefore it is possible to: reduce maintenance costs: fewer transmission components are needed and lubrication is no longer required; reduce noise; reduce vibrations: lower mechanical transmission entails lower wear of transmission components and therefore lower vibrations. This enables the machine to work at higher speeds; increase transmission efficiency: transmission system comprises only a pulley and toothed belts: no shafts, no bevel gears are included. This allows to reduce energy consumption. Drafting system Marzoli roving frames can be equipped with a 3-over-3 or 4-over-4 top-of-the-class drafting system. There are two options for the cylinder diameters: the standard solution has a diameter of 32mm; however, in case there is a high percentage of short fibers in the processed material, cylinders with a diameter of 27mm can be used to reduce the gauge between nipping points. This guarantees a better control of short fibers during draft.
Marzoli drafting system can also rely on highly efficient cleaners for both top rollers and bottom drafting cylinders. For top rollers there are two options: rollers with rubber fins and revolving felt belts. For the bottom cylinders there are rubber scrapers. These solutions guarantee that at every turn both top rollers and bottom cylinders are always cleaned. This, along with the high quality of each and every component, entails the perfect control of fibers during draft and top quality of the roving. False twist area As bobbins on modern roving frames are arranged in two rows, rovings can have different angles at the delivery of the drafting system and at the entrance of the flyers’ top. It has been argued that these different angles can entail differences in the spinning triangle at draft delivery and different tensions of the rovings thereby causing an uneven take up of twist and variations in roving count. On Marzoli machines all rovings lay parallel to one another: they have the same angle at the delivery of the drafting system and at the flyers’ entrance for both the front row and the back row of bobbins. Individual sensors ensure that each and every roving break is properly detected and the machine securely stopped, even in case of roving overlap around the cylinder/top roller. On the other hand, if dust passed in front of the sensors the machine would not stop, it would continue to run. Individual sensors also make suction not required. This, along with the IE3 motors and an overall design meant to minimize energy consumption, allows to save up to 4 Kwh. Roving tension is kept constant within a pre-set range through sensors that constantly monitor roving’s fluctuations between the delivery of the drafting system and the flyer’s top and adjust the speed of the spindles accordingly. These sensors play an important role in ensuring that there are no false drafts in the roving and that roving breaks are kept to a minimum. Winding area It is argued that to increase productivity and lower investment costs, spindlage and dimension of bobbins should be increased. This is only partially true: a higher number of spindles per machine
COVER STORY reduces the cost of the investment as the total required number of spindles can be reached with fewer machines. From a unit cost (cost per spindle) point of view, there is an economic advantage that stems from the amortization of the cost of the head and rear stocks on a higher number of spindles per machine. However, the higher the number of spindles, the smaller the benefit stemming from a further increase in machine’s length. Machines exceeding a certain number of spindles also entail higher costs for electronics and drafting drive. Last but not least a higher number of spindles per machine causes a reduction in efficiency. The FT6E (110mm gauge) can reach 224 spindles and produce bobbins of 16” x 6”. The FT7E (130mm gauge) has a spindlage up to 168 spindles and can produce packages of 16” x 7”. These numbers represent the limit in terms of number of spindles and dimensions of bobbins to maintain top efficiency standards. A higher number of spindles per machine would not give an additional benefit to the spinner as the decrease in machine efficiency would not be counterbalanced by the reduction in the average cost per spindle. The flyers installed on Marzoli’s roving frames are made of ultralight alloy and are dynamically balanced so that even when working at high speeds, vibrations are kept to a minimum. Marzoli’s roving frames can reach up to 1,500 rpm mechanically and the roving can be wound on standard tubes, with a diameter of 53.5 mm, or on thinner tubes , with a diameter of 48mm, to have a further slight increase in bobbin capacity. The creel The creel is equipped with hexagonal aluminum rollers to prevent false drafts, a very important aspect especially when working with combed slivers. Optic sensors positioned between the rollers ensure that in case of sliver break the machine is immediately stopped. Marzoli roving frames can be fed with cans with a diameter of up to 24” which allow to reduce machine stops and increase its efficiency.
systems is the one that Marzoli has implemented, tested and refined in the last twenty years. With this solution in less than 3 minutes full bobbins are replaced with empty tubes and the machine is restarted. During the new doffing cycle, the full bobbins are forwarded to the transport system which carries the packages to the spinning frames. Also a semi automatic doffing option of the machine is available. With this version ergonomics has been substantially improved if compared to standard manual-doffing machines. After bobbin formation is completed, the bobbin rail lowers and tilts out for an easy bobbin collection. Furthermore, there is a parking rail in front of the bobbin rail with empty tubes so that substitution of full bobbins with empty tubes is as easy as possible. With the release of the FT6E and FT7E Marzoli offers also a third option: the roving frame with the pre-arrangement for automaticdoffing upgrade. During doffing the bobbin rail lowers and slides out horizontally, just like the fully-automatic model. Besides permitting an easy collection of the full bobbins, this solution allows an easy and cost efficient upgrade of the machine to the fully-automatic version. Energy efficiency To succeed in the highly competitive and globalized sector spinners must minimize production costs of whom energy consumption represents an important component. Marzoli roving frames represent an outstanding machine from the energy consumption point of view. This machine is the only one available on the market that does not need suction. In fact thanks to the individual sensors installed as standard any roving break can be promptly identified. No suction is required to capture the broken roving and make it pass in front of the photocell. This, along with the IE3 premium efficiency motors, the light weight components (e.g. the bobbin rail in aluminum) and an overall design meant to minimize friction and transmission inefficiencies, entails an energy saving of over 4 Kwh for every hour of operation.
Doffing One of the most crucial aspects on modern roving frames is automation especially on doffing since doff is costly, frequent, has a quite-important negative influence on efficiency (especially on long roving frames) and, if done manually, can damage the roving bobbins. Nowadays several options for automatic doffing are available. One of the simplest, most reliable and fastest, automatic doffing
The world of Textile We are back, as promised, to take you on further into the world of Textile industry. As we said last time, “Textile industry is not only about the final product or material, it goes beyond the obvious.” Every minute thing on the final product requires special skillsets. No one section is more important than the other. They all are equally very important. In the last edition, we focused on the different fibres, manufacturers, and spinning techniques. In this edition, we will look in details on processes like weaving, knitting, processing, and garmenting. Weaving is about how the threads are interlocked to form the basis of a fabric or a cloth. The characteristics of the cloth are very much dependent on the ways these threads are interlocked. Weaving can be defined as the repetition of the following three actions, also known as the primary motion of the loom:
By TVC Team
a male dominated job. 2. Power loom infection: As the name suggests, machines are used in this technique to do everything. Girls and young women used to take care of these machines and operated them for weaving purpose. Now let us move on to knitting. Knitting is about putting those yarns together to create a design. It creates multiple loops in yarns called stitches, in a line or a tube. It has multiple active stitches on the needle at a time. If you have a look at the knitted fabric, there are a multiple loops in consecutive rows. Not only loops in a row but also the rows are interlocked. Knitting can be done by hand or machines.
1. Shedding: where the ends are separated by raising or lowering heald frames to form a clear space where the pick can pass.
Hand knitting is the most conventional method of knitting. There are many hundreds of different knitting stitches used by hand knitters. A piece of hand knitting begins with the process of casting on, which involves the initial creation of the stitches on the needle.
2. Picking: where the weft or pick is propelled across the loom by hand, an air-jet, a rapier, or a shuttle
Mega knitting is a term recently coined and relates to the use of knitting needles greater than or equal to half an inch in diameter.
3. Beating-up or battening: where the weft is pushed up against the fell of the cloth by the reed.
Mega knitting uses the same stitches and techniques as conventional knitting, except that hooks are carved into the ends of the needles. The hooked needles greatly enhance control of the work, catching the stitches and preventing them from slipping off.
The secondary motions of the loom are: 1. Let off Motion: where the warp is let off the warp beam at a regulated speed to make the filling even, filling here refers to the filling between the threads, and of the required design. 2. Take up Motion: Takes up the woven fabric in a regulated manner so that the density of filling is maintained. The tertiary motions of the loom are two stop motions, wrap stop motion and weft stop motion. These motions are important to stop in the loom in the event of the thread break. Let us know a little about the weavers. There are a variety of them. 1. Handloom weavers: We all have heard of handloom material and handloom artifacts. Every time there is an handloom exhibition, we all rush to get a few handcrafted things. Previously, it was
It was the development of the knitting machine that introduced hooked needles and enabled faultless, automated knitting. Let us move on to the textile processing. Textile processing or manufacturing is based on converting yarn to fabric or fabric to yarn. These are then dyed and/or printed and fabricated into the final product. There are various types of processing techniques. These techniques differ from the base material to material. Once all the processes discusses in these two articles, processing, spinning, weaving or knitting are done, the finishing and marketing take place. Finishing is the finishing of the final product that includes, checking the quality, damage, packaging, tagging, etc. Marketing is where the product is marketed, a need is created and the product is sold.
Do you have water Balance sheet of your factory?? Ms.Chitralekha Vaidya CEO, Varshasookt Consultants email@example.com This article focuses on importance of water audits, commercial impact of the same on profitable manufacturing and measures on reducing the water footprint on various types of industries. The water balance sheet of any industry gives you insight of current situation and roadmap for future water conservation action plan. As the financial year end is close by, every business is busy in financial closure. But have you ever made your water resource balance sheet? It’s high time for the same too. Water is a precious natural national resource with almost fixed
quantum of availability. With continuous growth in country’s population, per capita availability of utilizable water is going down, whereas with ever-rising standard of living of people, all around rapid industrialization and urbanization, demand of fresh water is going up continuously. Unabated discharge of industrial effluents into water bodies is further aggravating the situation of scarcity of water of Acceptable quality. In spite of the fact that fresh water is rapidly becoming scarce it is continued to be used wastefully. Rapid industrialization and urbanization coupled with continuous decline in per capita water availability is putting a lot of pres-
COVER STORY sure on the available water resources in the country. Hence, it is important to understand the dynamics behind water audit and its impact on profitability of production. What Is Water Used For? Water is used by commercial, institutional and industrial customers for five primary purposes: y Indoor domestic use (rest rooms, kitchens, and laundries) y cooling and heating y landscape irrigation y processing of materials y As an ingredient Examples of water uses in commercial and institutional facilities y Indoor (Domestic) Water Kitchens, cafeterias, staff rooms – Faucets , Distilled/drinking water, Ice machines , Dishwashers Garbage disposals , Food preparation , Restrooms and showers , Faucets , Toilets and urinals , Showers Laundry - washing machines Sanitation Facility cleaning , Sterilization/autoclaves , Equipment washing , Dust control , Container washing Processes – photographic and x-ray processing, silk screening, dry cleaning , printing , etc. y Cooling and Heating Cooling towers/evaporative , coolers Boilers and steam systems Once-through cooling , Air conditioners , Air compressors , Hydraulic equipment , Degreasers ,Rectifiers ,Vacuum pumps , Outdoor Water Use , Irrigation , Pools and spas ,Decorative water features While establishing any new industry, water and energy are 2 most important factors considered from any factory and processing industry operation point of view. And, water audits can play very important role in the assessment. Water audits are effective methods to account for all water usage within a facility in order to identify opportunities to improve water use efficiency. Benefits from implementation of water audit may include lower utility costs, energy savings, and reduced process costs. Water put in the system water used in processes, Unaccounted water activities y y y y y
Water For drinking Water for cleaning Water as raw material in process Effluent generated domestic wastewater Generated
y y y y
Leakage from reservoirs Leakage from pipe networks Leakage from Taps Evaporation Losses
What is Water Conservation? Water conservation, also known as water use efficiency, is an integral part of water supply planning and water resource management. Water conservation is defined as the beneficial reduction in water use, waste, and loss. Water conservation is becoming a viable alternative and complement to developing new water sup-
plies. While short-term water restrictions imposed during a water shortage can temporarily relieve pressure on water sources, lasting water conservation involves a combination of retrofits, new water saving appliances, maintenance of infrastructure, and a collective water conservation ethic focused on resource use, allocation, and protection. What is water audit? A water audit is an on-site survey and assessment of water-using hardware, fixtures, equipment, landscaping, and management practices to determine the efficiency of water use and to develop recommendations for improving water-use efficiency. In simple words, a water audit is a systematic review of a site that identifies the quantities and characteristics of all the water uses. The site may vary from a public water utility, facility (institutional or commercial properties like malls, office, schools etc.) or a household. The overall objective of conducting a water audit is to identify opportunities to make system or building water use more efficient. Facility water audits include – accurate measurement of all water entering the facility the inventory and calculation of all on-site water uses and any unused water sources or waste streams that may be available calculation of water related costs And identification of potential water efficiency measures. The information from the water audit forms the basis for a comprehensive conservation program to implement specific water saving measures throughout the facility. The conservation program may consist of one or more projects in different areas of the facility. Estimation of Wastewater Generation & action plan to reduce the generation It is difficult to assess wastewater generation from industries on the basis of average generation of wastewater per product unit, mainly due to large variations in volume of wastewater generation per product unit. However owing to various constraints, present estimation of industrial wastewater is based on average generation of wastewater per unit product. The volume of wastewater and concentration of various pollutants in industrial discharge vary depending on manufacturing processes and other factors such as housekeeping, reuse, technology, etc. Even for a given manufacturing process, the amount of wastewater generation depends on several factors, for instance: a) Housekeeping practices - Housekeeping practices refer to simple measures such as arresting leaks from pipes, stopping of unnecessary overflows from the vessels, improving material handling procedures to reduce losses. Poor housekeeping results in significant generation of wastewater. B) Extent of process control - Process control includes setting up of process parameters to optimum levels leading to best possible yields and minimum wastage of water. Product quality requirements refer to commercial specifications, which may vary depending on market. c) Product quality – Product quality requirements including packaging - Achieving better quality generally require additional processing and improved raw materials and thus may generate more wastes. d) Management systems & initiatives - The management systems include entire sequence of raw material processing, technology and production of finished product.
COVER STORY The emphasis on curtailing wastage in handling and improvement in operation processes through better management can lead to minimization of wastes. The results from water audits should be used for leak detection, minimization of wastewater generated, implementation of water conservation plans such as Rainwater harvesting and watershed management, wastewater recycling, zero liquid discharge policy and so on. Selection of Right kind of technology for wastewater Treatment & Reuse:It is very important to select right kind of technology for wastewater processing. Generally emphasis is given only on capital cost and operation maintenance, recurring costs are overlooked. Hence, it is important to answer following questions before narrowing down on choice of technology.
Need for implementation of long term sustainable measures like Rainwater Harvesting India has enough rainwater available throughout the year. It is question of utilizing the same. As the rainwater is purest source of fresh water, it is important to have long term vision about business
sustainability and not just short term vision of payback criteria. As availability of water can largely hamper the production, it must be considered while investing in other short term options like purchasing water from outside temporary resources. Small Industry Wise Tips Hospitals Bathroom fixture replacement Cooling tower efficiency retrofits Laundry equipment and process changes Condensate return systems for sterilizers Conversion from x-rays to digital imaging
Hotels and Motels Bathroom fixture replacement Laundry equipment and process changes Guest conservation awareness programs to promote less frequent linen exchanges to reduce laundry
Schools Bathroom fixture replacement Cooling tower efficiency retrofits Irrigation efficiency measures such as weather- or moisture-based irrigation controllers
Restaurants Water efficiency training and information for kitchen staff Use air-cooled equipment such as icemakers Bathroom fixture replacement Water efficient appliances and best management practices during their use
It is a typical mindset of the industry that profits are generally made by not treating wastewater properly and hence saving on the treatment cost. But as the “polluters pay” policy is becoming effective day by day, there is requirement of paradigm shift from mindset of “profit in pollution” to “profit from water recovery” and “resource recovery from waste”.
Kate Middleton and A-List designer-favourite Daniella Helayel collaborates with Koovs for The Princess Collection Flamboyant Brazilian-born designer Daniella Helayelcollaborates with Koovsfor The Princess Collection.A favourite of Kate – Duchess of Cambridge, her designs havealso been worn by A-List female celebrities from Madonna and Kylie to JLo and Ellie Goulding, and Keira Knightly to Scarlett Johansson and Eva Mendes, all loving her signature style - cut to feel sexy, fit and flatter. Inspired by Pippa Middleton’s much anticipated wedding and launching in May to coincide with the summer party season, the collection will be effortlessly elegant with a young fun twist and offer seamless day to evening wear - perfect for any occasion. Daniella, was already dressing A-List stars when she was catapulted to global status when Kate Middleton chose to wear her iconic sapphire blue silk jersey dress to announce her engagement to Prince William in 2010. Daniella’sPrincess Collection for Koovs will build on her statement fit-and-flare jersey, with bright fun and flamboyant prints,
exciting fabrics and the latest young colours and styles. Featuring baby pink, ‘Kiss Me’ prints, metallics, off the shoulder ruffles and halter necks in every length from mini to maxi, the collection will offer something for every woman. Having returned to fashion last year with her new label Dhela,this is her first collaboration with Koovs specifically foryoung style-conscious women in India. Daniella Helayel says: “I started designing to make clothes that made women feel sexy and confident – clothes that could move seamlessly from daywear to evening, that looked great and that lasted.I believe that feeling gorgeous, sophisticated and confident should be accessible to every woman.” Mary Turner, CEO Koovs, says: “The Duchess and Pippa have become global style icons and what they wear is watched all over the world. We are delighted to take that inspiration with our first Princess Collection for India and we will beexcited to reveal all in May – so watch this space.”
Jammu Apparel Market Dr. Hari Govind Mishra Assistant Professor School of Business Faculty of Management Shri Mata Vaishno Devi University, Katra, J&K The wheel of retailing keeps on rotating but not necessarily in the same place. From the first retail concept i.e. Barter system to the latest lifestyle retail concept, retailing of apparelhas changed significantly with time. Retailers were basically purchasing agents for the residents of a specific locality or area, reflecting closely those customers’ life-styles, brand preferences, shopping hours etc. Indian Apparel is the largest segment of the Indian Textile and Clothing Industry (IT&C); accounts 60-65% of the total Industry. Furthermore, it is one of the largest sources of foreign exchange flow into the country. As per the data published by Ministry of Textiles, in its annual report 2015-16, India is ranked as 6th largest exporter of apparel in the world after China, Bangladesh, Vietnam, Germany and Italy (source: care ratings). Apparel marketof Jammu is flourishing day by day and so are the demands of the customers. To increase my appetite for knowledge for “what customers want”, a study was conducted in Jammu by interacting with the customers. This study is qualitative in nature. The population frame is the customers of the lifestyle retail store of Jammu in India. The data were collected through focus group interviews. 10 focus group interviews were conducted at thedifferent place across Jammu region. Out of 10 focus group interviews, 6 focus groups were females and 4 were that of males. Age of the females varies from 19 years to 45 whereas the age of the males varies from 20-30. Each group comprised of 5-7 homogeneous participants. The focus group interviews were unstructured and moderator started the discussion by commenting on the topic to which the participants reacted. Moderator first introduced herself to the participants and the objective of conducting theinterview was stated to them. The time frame of each focus-group interview was up to 35-45 minutes. The moderator intervened only when there was silence in the group so that the discussion can be carried on. No more than 10 questions were asked by the moderator. All the interviews were conducted in person and discussions were audio-recorded. The following is atranscription of a focused group interview: “Good Morning and welcome to our session. In order to find out factors that influence the customers ‘choice of apparellifestyle retail store, I invite all of you to participate in this session. I want to know what are your preferences for apparel stores and which factors impact your choice of apparel store. I will be having discussions like this with several groups of both the gender. You were selected on the basis of purposeful. There are no right and wrong answers but somewhat different points of view. Feel free to share your point of view even if it differs from what others have said. I will be tape recording the session so that all valuable comments don’t get missed. Participants often share very useful things in these discussions and I may not be able to pen down all the important points. Only one person will speak at a point and there is no need to get aggressive, all of you will be given enough time to express your point of views. You don’t have to agree with what others are saying, but you must listen patiently as others share their
views. I will start with the person sitting on the right. First of all give a brief introduction of yourself, your name, age, gender, area, and income. Introduce yourself one by one and as the introduction is done, we will start with the discussion. I as a moderator will guide you at the time of requirement. I won’t interfere much. Now, you can start the discussion.” Ten focus groups interviews were conducted on the same topic. These interviews were conducted for several days and enough time was provided to each focus group so that all the participants can speak. It takes more than one focus group on any one topic to produce valid results – usually three or four. The focus group moderator responsibly covered all the questions in thetime allotted. The quality of the data obtained from an in-depth interview or focus group is based upon the level of thought involved in the development of the questions (Patton, 2002). There are six main types of open-ended in-depth interview or focus groups questions: (1) experience or behavior questions, (2) sensory questions, (3) opinion or value questions, (4) knowledge questions, (5) feeling questions, and (6) background or demographic questions (Patton, 2002). Experience or behavior questions are intended to get at an interviewee’s actions, either past or present. In particular, a participant’s answers should reflect a direct observation that could have been made by watching the participant. These kinds of questions are often followed by sensory questions. This is a useful questioning technique as such questions focus on things that the interviewee has actually experienced, and can help them to better recall other experiences. Opinion or value questions are designed to elicit interviewees’ knowledge of a specific phenomenon or experience and provide useful insight into their goal. Knowledge questions seek factual information from interviewees. Feeling questions are intended to produce a narrative of an emotion from the participant.Background or demographic questions are useful for the characterization of the people participating in the in-depth interview or focus group (Patton, 2002). Once the in-depth interview or focus group questions are drafted, it is significant to make sure that they conform to a few guidelines. First, the questions should be open-ended and neutral. This means that the questions should neither make an assumption about what the interviewee thinks about the topic nor should they offer any clues as to what the interviewer hopes the interviewee will say. Second, the questions should focus on one topic at a time. The questions should not dichotomous. Third, your questions, as well as the topic, should not be vague, there should be clarity in the questions (Patton, 2002). The key to achieving this is to think carefully about the kind of information you anticipate from each question in the in-depth interview question guide. With the question wording finalized, the questions should be in a coherent order. The interviewer needs to guide the participants through the questions. The main questions that were asked were: What kind of apparel stores do you prefer?; What are major
COVER STORY components that you consider before buying apparel?Are these factors interlinked to each other?From which store do you often shop?Why that particular store?Is there anything that you would like to add? ” These set of questions were mainly asked by the moderators. We will come to know that enough data has been collected when we stop hearing anything new anymore, i.e. the point of saturation. The saturation of data occurs when repetition of data starts to happen. The study reveals that demographic factors of consumers do influence apparel retail store choice. It was also observed that retail store choice is a hierarchical process which not only depends on demographic attributes but also on the current needs of a consumer. Fashion consciousness and comfort seeking are the significant predictors for apparel store choice decisions. Social factors, family, brand conscious, thelocation of thestore and price are significant predictors for lifestyle store choice decisions. All these variable such as society, fashion, culture, uniqueness, family, brand and price are the major lifestyle factors. We can say that customer’s lifestyle is based on these factors and choose their lifestyle store on the basis of these factors. It was also found that factors like situation specific and retail store attributes impact customers’ choice. The overall results of this study show that apparel shoppers are influenced by various factors in choosing a store. No single retail
factor seems to be dominant in meeting consumer needs/wants, all the factors play anequivalent role in choosing a lifestyle retail store. Consumer’s socio-economic, demographic and geographic and personal characteristics have significant association with the choice of retail store Consumers focus on factors like Brand availability, fashion, trend/style, price, variety of merchandise, comfort, store location, social status, and hedonism or recreation and then move into a particular store within the format where they can save time, money and effort. This study also provides valuable information to retailers in relation to customersapparel store choice in Indian lifestyle goods retailing. Understanding how preferences vary with consumer factors is a key element in developing successful retail marketing strategies. It can be inferred that it is also possible to affect the orientations of the shoppers by offering modern retail formats. These findings would enable retailers to develop an effective marketing strategy to optimize the use of marketing and promotional resources in meeting the needs of discerning target customers. With the intensified level of competition in today’s apparel market, an increasing number of stores are currently facing difficulties in operating profitability. These retailersneed to adjust market communications and repositioning themselves to retain the existing and attracting potential customers.
NSQF level compliance of Skill Development courses Dr. Swapna Mishra (Director) Textile Sector Skill Council (TSC) India’s 62% of the population is in the working age group and more than 54% is below the age of 25. The labour force in the coming twenty year is estimated to decrease by 4% while that in India is expected to increase by 32%. It could be a challenge for the Government to provide jobs for such huge numbers.The Prime Minister’s vision of Make in India is aimed at creating jobs for millions in the coming years. This is supported by Skill India Mission which aims to train 1 crore people by 2020 to cater to the new jobs being created. There are a number of Training Providers and certifying agencies conducting training/Skilling programmes of a vast variety in the country. This also brings the need to standardise the skilling ecosystem so that all trainee certified skilled for a particular job role by different agencies are considered at par. Ministry of Skill Development & Entrepreneurship aims to do this through National Skills Qualification Frameworkwhich explains the governing guidelines for all Skill Development course in the Country.The Ministry of Finance, through its notification number No. 8/6/2013-Invt.dated 27th December, 2013 has notified that National Skills Qualification Framework (NSQF) will be applicable since December 2013 and all other frameworks, including the NVEQF (National Vocational Educational Qualification Framework) released by the Ministry of HRD, cease to exist, and are superseded by the NSQF. The Notification entitles NSQF compliant training/ educational programmes/courses to receive government funding on a preferential basis since December 2013. After the third anniversary date of the notification of the
NSQF,(December, 2016), Government funding would not be available for any training/ educational programme/ course which is not NSQF-compliant and all government-funded training and educational institutions shall define eligibility criteria for admission to various courses in terms of NSQF levels. The recruitment rules of the Government of India and the public sector enterprises of the central government shall also be amended to define eligibility criteria for all positions in terms of NSQF levels. State Governments shall be encouraged to amend their recruitment rules as well as those of their public sector enterprises to define eligibility criteria for all positions in terms of NSQF levels. After the fifth anniversary date of the notification of the NSQF it shall be mandatory for all training/educational programmes/courses to be NSQF-compliant and all training and educational institutions shall define eligibility criteria for admission to various courses in terms of NSQF levels. A register of all NSQF approved qualifications will be available at www.nqr.gov.inThe institutions wishing to avail Government funding for Skilling must align their courses to NSQF approved qualifications. They may contact the respective awarding bodies (SSCs/NCVT) for this. The details of Sector Skill Councils (SSCs) are available at www.nsdcindia.org The author is working with the Textile Sector Skill Council (TSC) which is mandated to develop Skill Ecosystem for Textile Mill and handloom Sector. Further details on TSC may be accessed at www. texskill.in or writing to firstname.lastname@example.org
India, the third-largest Asian economy, ranked 131 on Human Development Index: UN UNITED NATIONS: India has ranked a lowly 131 among the 188 countries surveyed for human development, a new UN report has said, bracketing the third-largest Asian economy alongside its South Asian neighbours like Pakistan, Bhutan and Nepal. India has made no improvement in its ranking over the previous year, despite the Human Development Report for 2015 noting that foreign direct investment favours countries such as China and India. India’s Human Development Index rank in 2014 was also 131. However, 63 per cent Indians were “satisfied” with their standard of living in 2014-15, the latest report found. The report, released annually by the UN Development Programme, said India’s rank of 131 puts it in the “medium human development” bracket, which also includes nations like Bangladesh, Bhutan, Pakistan, Kenya, Myanmar and Nepal. India’s HDI rank value in 2015 stood at 0.624, which had increased from 0.580 in 2010. Its life expectancy at birth stood at 68.3 years in 2015 and the Gross National Income (GNI) per capita $5,663, the report said. On the perception of feeling safe 69 per cent answered “yes”, while on freedom of choice, 72 per cent female responders answered they were “satisfied” as compared to 78 per cent for male. India’s score for overall life satisfaction was 4.3 on a scale of 1-10, according to the report. On perceptions about government, 69 per cent said they had trust in the national government for the 2014-15 period while 74 per cent said they had confidence in the judicial system. It lauded measures like the National Rural Employment Guarantee Programme taken in India to generate employment. “Creating jobs through a public works programme targeted at poor people can reduce poverty through income generation, build physical infra- structure and protect poor people against shocks. The National Rural Employment Guarantee Programme in India and the Rural Employment Opportunities for Public Assets Programme in Bangladesh are prime examples.” The report noted that increasing clean energy investments in
India by 1.5 per cent of GDP a year for 20 years will generate a net increase of about 10 million jobs annually in the country, after factoring in job losses from retrenchments in the fossil fuel industries. The report launched in Stockholm yesterday found that although the average human development improved significantly since 1990, progress is uneven, with systemic discrimination against women, indigenous peoples and ethnic minorities. It said while many people have greater access to education, health and sanitation, more focus needs to be paid to who has been excluded and why. “By eliminating deep, persistent, discriminatory social norms and laws, and addressing the unequal access to political participation, which have hindered progress for so many, poverty can be eradicated and a peaceful, just, and sustainable development can be achieved for all,” said UNDP Administrator Helen Clark. Titled Human Development for Everyone, the report authored by the Director of the Human Development Report Office SelimJahan, said that one in three people worldwide continue to live at a low level of human development. Women and girls are systematically excluded by economic, political, social and cultural barriers, according to the report measured by the Human Development Index - a ranking of countries based on strides made with a peace-centric model of progress. “Women tend to be poorer, earn less, and have fewer opportunities in most aspects of life than men,” it said. The report also points to “dangerous practices,” such as female genital mutilation and forced marriage, which continue to hamper the development of women and their inclusion in society. In addition to women and girls, the report points to “patterns of exclusion and lack of empowerment” of people in rural areas, indigenous peoples, ethnic minorities, people with disabilities, migrants and refugees, and members of the lesbian,gay, bisexual, transgender and intersex community. The report calls for far greater attention to empowering the most marginalised in society, and recognises the importance of giving them greater voice in decision-making processes.
Protective works wear for workers working in cement industry Prof (Dr) M.S.Parmar, Shweta Saxena and Vasundhara Verma Northern India Textile Research Association, Sector-23, Rajnagar, Ghaziabad-201002, U.P, India The demand of cement requirement is increasing every year in India. At present, the capacity of cement production in India is 390 million tones, which is expected to further increase due to government’s push for large infrastructure projects. With the increase in use of Portland cement in India, its adverse effect on health of workers working in cement construction sites and manufacturing industries has become a burning issue. Thousands of construction
workers are exposed to concrete every day without knowing its harmful effect on their health. Cement is chemical and highly alkaline in nature. At wet stage, the pH of cement is more than 12.9, has the ability to create third degree burns. When the skin of worker, come in regular contact of this wet concrete, it may get affected and resulted dermatitis. Signs and symptoms of dermatitis can include itching, redness, swelling, blisters, scaling and other changes
TECHNICAL TEXTILE in the normal conditions of skin. In India, workers are still not provided proper protective work wear while working in cement related work especially during the use of concrete. Therefore, to understand the performance requirements on the fabric for cement workers protective clothing, a survey was conducted by NITRA on DMRC, NDMC, PWD and private builders. Workers of some cement manufacturing units were also surveyed to gather information related to protective work wear. It was found by survey that most of the agencies are not providing
suitable protective work wear to the workers. A few of the agencies are providing cotton gloves, masks and reflective jackets, which are not sufficient to protect them from cement dust and slurry. To prevent cement dust, cement porters/workers generally wear multiple layers of garments. But these layering of garments do not give full proof prevention from cement dust. It was also reveled from the survey that they were having good health before joining this trade. But after joining this trade they began to show symptom of eyes swelling, respiratory problems, skin burning etc.
To avoid cement dust contacting with skin
Strength & Abrasion resistance including UV resistance
To resist the friction in particular position
Thermal-Moisture equilibrium* (Wa- To maintain thermal moisture comter vapour or moisture permeability) fort
Appropriate weight and thickness
To avoid additional load
Easy-washing & Quick drying
Convenient for maintenance
Fit for the working environment
Work wear should have low cost
SURAT REPORT Synthetics grey fabrics production down upto 30%, yarn price reversed Because of workers shortage and decreased demand in finished fabrics, the production of polyester raw grey fabrics is reduced by almost 30% in Surat. Ahead of Holi festival, the exodus of the workers has hit hard the powerloom and processing industries. Sources said, out of 10 lakh workers employed in the textile sector, over three lakh have moved out of the city due to assembly election in Uttar Pradesh and the Holi-Dhuleti festival. There are over 1.5 lakh workers have yet to return. About 30% powerloom factories are operating in one shift only. The weavers are also not interested to increase the production. They are purchasing yarn as per the requirement instead of stocking. Decreased number of orders and crude oil pressure has reversed the synthetic yarn price. In the last week of March, the crude oil prices remained close to 48 dollar. The prices of raw materials of synthetic yarn PTA stood at Rs.50/kg and MEG Rs.56/kg. Various denniers of synthetics yarn declined by Rs. 3 to 5 per Kg. Benchmark 80 crimp yarn prices came down to Rs.112/ kg from Rs.116/117 in the first week of March. 80/72 semidal Roto yarn prices stood at Rs.113/114/kg. down by Rs. 4/kg. To stabilise the prices, the sppinners has declared repeat sale in POY and texurised yarn in second week of March, but now they are offering under table discount to clear the stocks. The weavers are expecting that reverse trend in yarn prices will remain countinue in April month due to heavy decline in crude oil prices in the international market. No excise duty on ‘sari’, a big relief for Surat textile traders By considering the representation made by various local textile and industrial organisation, the Central Board of Excise and Customs (CBEC) has issued a notification, by which it has kept ‘sari’ out of the ambit of made-ups, which attract 2 per cent excise duty on retail price above Rs1,000. Surat textile industries has welcomed
this decision as it is a big relief for the traders. The CBEC issued a circular dated March 15, 2017 for classifying ‘sari’ under chapter 50,52 and 54 of the CETA Act, 1985 and not under chapter 63, which attracts duty on the ready-made garments and made-ups. Earlier, textile traders were upset following the decision taken by the Central Government to levy excise duty on articles of textiles, including ready-made garments and made-ups above Rs1,000. Federation of Surat Textile Traders Association (FOSTTA) and Southern Gujarat Chamber of Commerce and Industry (SGCCI) strongly oppose the decision and has made a representation to the central govt. for keeping ‘sari’ out of the ambit of the excise duty levy on retail price of Rs1,000.
City’s textile group aided Uri martyrs’ kin Surat textile group Madhu Priya Fashions Private Limited has facilitated the family members of martyrs of Uri attack in J&K. The group has organised an event to celebrate its 15 years long business journey in which it has given financial assistance of Rs. ten lakh to 47 family members of martyrs. Company’s chairman and director Vinod Agarwal said, our soldiers are our real heroes. Last year, 18 soldiers martyred fighting the terrorists. He said, “ we thought of inviting the family members of our brave soldiers martyred in our celebration instead of any celebrities.” They decided to help the families of all the martyrs who laid down their lives to protect our borders. This will leave a message among textile industry people to work for the shattered families of our martyrs. A day long cultural programme was also organised during the event.
Surat to get centre of excellence for textile sector Country’s largest man-made fabric (MMF) center, Surat can be declared centre of excellence in the near future. This centre will
MARKET REPORT help to conduct research and development of MMF fabrics. During the 3 days Surat International Textile Expo (SITEX) organised by Southern Gujarat Chamber of Commerce and Industry (SGCCI), minister of state for textiles Mr. Ajay Tamta said, the ministry is considering to provide a centre of excellence and establishing a textile park at Pinjrat in the city. The textile minister will visit Surat textile industries on 1st April. The minister will present solar
scheme for weaving industries. It is also expected that the minister will announce a centre of excellence and a mega textile park at Surat. Earlier, The SGCCI has submitted a proposal for allocation of 80 lakh square meters of land for the mega textile park and to established the centre of excellence. It will help the MMF sector develop and manufacture different varieties of fabrics that have potential in the domestic as well as the international markets.
A little effort by Maharashtra Govt can still make In-situ Scheme a game changer Mr. Aleem Faizee In January 2007, the Planning Commission of India had called a meeting in New Delhi to assess why the Textile Industries are struggling and why the second largest sector in India after agriculture was failing to modernise despite pumping-in a huge amount of money under Technology Upgradation Funds Scheme (TUFS) and its later variants. The apex body, which has now been renamed as Niti Aayog, was shocked to learn that out of the total 22.5 lakh only about 1.5 lakhs are modern and shuttleless machines, rest all are plain powerlooms. It was during this meeting that Malegaon Industries & Manufacturers Association (MIMA) for the first time proposed that a new scheme should be designed and implemented on trial basis in select Textile Clusters. I was leading the MIMA delegation in that meeting. Participating in the debate we said that owing to the challenges and difficulties which the weavers were facing it would not be possible to modernize the entire 22.5 lakh plain looms all at onceas the government wished. Simultaneously, as a parallel solution to the problem the industry was facing because of discarded machineries, we proposed that the Ministry of Textiles along with the Technology Upgradation Funds Scheme (TUFS) should also provide financial support to the weavers, who were not in a position to buy new modern machines, in upgradingtheir existing plain looms and converting them into Semi-Automatic looms. The proposal was received with a lukewarm response while the officials insisted on replacing all running plain looms with new rapier, water-jet, air-jet or other machineries to meet what they called the looming global challenges. Sometimes in 2009 the Planning Commission of India again called a meeting with the same agenda. Interestingly, the Ministry of Textiles could not present any significant improvement in its data of 2007 and the number of modern machines remained more or less the same. By this time we had summed up all the minute details of our proposal, also adding to it the necessary data to show its feasibilityand an overview of the expected results the industry would get after the plain looms were converted into Semi-Automatic looms. After a heated discussion, it was finally agreed upon that the proposal should be thoroughly studied and a draft of the proposed scheme should be prepared on emergency basis. After a series of meetings at Textile Commissioner Office in Mumbai and with active support from Additional Textile Commissioner S Balaraju and his juniors a draft of the scheme was finally
prepared which after some amendment was launched in October 2013 as “Pilot Scheme on In-situ Upgradation of Plain Powerloom for SSI Powerloom Sector”. The scheme was initially launched in six clusters – Malegaon and Nagpur in Maharashtra, Bhagalpur in Bihar, Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh, Sircilla in Andhra Pradesh and Tanda in Uttar Pradesh, on pilot basis. However, Bhiwandi and Ichalkiranji – two of the country’s major textile clusters, were also added in the list later on. As per the scheme, the Ministry of Textiles agreed to bear the 50% cost of the updragation kit worth Rs.30,000/- to be fitted in one plain loom. It was also agreed that a weaver would need to install these upgradation kits in at least 08 looms which are running in a single shed.The kit in itself included weft stop motion, warp stop motion, semi positive let-off motion, efficient braking device, and in some cases self-lubricating nylon parts, anti-crack device and dobby. Soon after the Ministry of Textiles launched the In-situ scheme, the Maharashtra government also flung into action and agreed to provide special subsidy of Rs.10,000/- per upgradation kit, taking the total amount of government fund to Rs.25,000/- for a kit costing Rs.30,000/By all accounts, the decisions by Ministry of Textiles, New Delhi and Government of Maharashtra were momentous for the textile industry and the weavers across the six clusters were enthusiastic. During the implementation mode things became simpler after the Ministry of Textiles agreed to transfer the subsidy amount directly to the account of registered suppliers instead of giving them to the weavers. According to a rough estimate, more than 10,000 looms in the eight clusters were ready for upgradation within one month of the launch of the In-situ scheme. The weavers just needed to pay Rs.5000/- per kit and their plain looms were convertedinto SemiAutomatic machines. Fast installation of the kits, improved quality of fabrics and increased production all lured more and more weavers to fall inline and go for upgradation. The officials of the Textile Commissioner Office, especially Ravi Kumar, Subbayyan S, T Nagraj and DP Sharma were all seen shuttling from one textile cluster to another to make things easier for the weavers and kit suppliers. The then Textile Commissioner Kiran Soni Gupta, Additional Textile Commissioner S Balarajuand others were all overwhelmedby the response.
Everything was going on quiet smoothly, in fact beyond every-
MARKET REPORT one’s expectation. Thencame the shocker, and it was something nobody in the industrywas prepared to face. The Central Government had released its share of the funds to the suppliers. But, the Maharashtra government after releasing funds initially could not do so citing “technical” reasons, forcing the suppliers to stop supply of the kits. Installation of the kits going on with significant pace came to a sudden halt. This was in 2015 and the situation remains so even today. But, if the Maharashtra government still takes a decision and step to release the dues of the suppliersclearing the technical hurdles, the In-situ scheme could again be brought on track and made
to work as game changer in the time of existing crisis.For, the fabrics produced on the plain looms fitted with In-situ upgradation kits are still in demand and the suppliers, almost broken becauseof the long delay in the release of their money, too are ready to give the implementation of the scheme one more chance. “We have incurred huge losses because of the delay. But, we are still ready to work with the Ministry of Textiles if our dues are cleared, and assurance is given that whatever happened in the past would not be repeated again”, a supplier said on the condition of anonymity.
CMAI Organised a Seminar on Labour Law & Important Acts The Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI) organised a Seminar by Mr Talakshi Dharod of M/S T R Dharod of Labour & Industrial Law Consultant, on Labour Laws, Important Acts such as ESI, PF, Bonus and Gratuity, on March 3, 2017, at Koshish Hall, Daftary Road, Malad (E), which was attended by more than 200 Garment Manufacturers. “The Indian Economy is now moving towards becoming a Cashless Economy and it is necessary that the Apparel Industry brings transparency in their Business,” said Mr Dharod. He captured the attention of more than 200 Garment Manufacturers who had gathered to hear him speak on Matters related to Employees’ State Insurance Corporation (ESIC), Employees Provident Fund (EPF), Payment of Wages to Labour, etc. ESIC: Employees’ State Insurance Scheme is a social security system tailored to provide socio-economic protection to Employees and their dependants covered under the Scheme. Mr Dharod said that the ESIS is mandatory when an Garment Manufacturer has more than 10 Employees (Gross salary upto R21,000/- p.m.) if not implemented, he could face arrest. The Garment Manufacturer is liable to pay 4.75 per cent of the gross salary as his Contribution for every Employee and deduct 1.75 per cent as the Employee’s contribution from the wages bill and pay these contributions to the ESIC. The ESIC benefits that an Employee can avail
are: Medical Benefit, Sickness Benefit, Maternity Benefit, Disablement Benefit, Dependants’ Benefit and Funeral Expenses. EPF: Mr Dharod said that the EPF Act is mandatory when the Garment Manufacturer has more than 20 employees. The Garment Manufacturer is liable to pay 13.36 per cent of the gross salary as his contribution for every employee and deduct 12 per cent as the employee’s contribution. The benefits for the employee are: Accumulation plus Interest upon retirement, resignation or death. Partial withdrawals allowed for specific expenses such as marriages, illness, education, etc. In case of death, his Family will get a monthly pension. Mr Dharod also briefly touched upon the Payment of Bonus Act and Gratuity Act. The Seminar ended with a Q& A session wherein Mr Dharod answered the queries of the Members.
NITRA Embraces Green Power, Goes the Solar Way! Today ‘Solar Energy’ has established itself as one of the most potential non-conventional energy resources to steadily replace conventional energy sources such as the hydro electricity and thermal power, as the production of conventional energy is not likely to meet future electricity demand of the world. The availability of natural fuel such as coal, gas, oil is limited and also the power generation using that fuel creates pollution into the atmosphere. There are plenty of other environment friendly sources such as sunlight and air which are rarely being used to generate power. Many organizations have already started thinking about the alternative energy resources and embracing solar energy. Besides being cost effective the technology also saves the planet as it is complete pollution-free.
In view of the above scenario and also for promoting ‘Green Power’, Northern India Textile Research Association, popularly known as NITRA, Ghaziabad, has decided to install Grid-connected Roof-top Solar Power Plant at its building. The plant is estimated to be fulfilling about 60%-70% of NITRA’s total power consumption in first phase. This effort, in turn, will also reduce the pollution which is quite prevalent in NCR and would help NITRA comply with its social responsibility. In addition to that, this move will encourage the textile and garment units to install solar power plant, many of those have already installed in their units.
YnFx Export watch report – February 2017
Vidya Vadgaonkar Email: Vidya@ynfx.com Tel: +91 22 66291122 Mobile: +91 9619 293725
India’s overall export grow for 5th straight month India’s merchandise export was up in January 2017 with value at US$22.11 billion (INR150,560 crore), up 4.32 per cent (5.6 per cent higher in INR terms) compared to the levels in January 2016. Total exports for the period April-January 2016-17 was up 1.09 per cent at US$220.92 billion (INR1,484,473 crore, up 4.5 per cent) over the same period last year. Imports in January 2017 were valued at US$31.96 billion (INR217,557 crore) and were 10.7 per cent higher (12.1 per cent higher in INR terms) over the level of imports in January 2016. Cumulative imports for the period April-January 2016-17 was at US$307.31 billion, down 5.8 per cent (INR2,065,656 crore, down 2.6 per cent) over the same period last year. Crude oil imports were up 61.1 per cent in January 2017 and fell 5.8 per cent during April-January 2016-17. In similar comparison, non-oil imports were 0.01 per cent higher in January 2017 and 5.8 per cent lower in April-January 2016-17. As a result, trade deficit for April-January, 2016-17 was at US$86.39 billion, which was lower than the deficit of US$107.74 billion in April-January, 2015-16. India’s yarn export to china rises in January Spun yarn exports in January 2017 surged 22.6 per cent in volume terms and rose 29.7 per cent in value terms. Spun yarn (all kinds) shipments were at 136.4 million kg worth US$386.8 million or INR2,600 crore, implying per unit realization of US$2.84 per kg which was up US cent 1 from previous month and rose US cents 16 as compared to January 2016. India’s yarn import to China continued to increase in January, however yarns from Pakistan to China were more slightly dropping in the meantime whereas products from Vietnam and Indonesia were still stable. A. Spun Yarn Exports - By Port ‘000 Kgs
94.11 75.11 62.08
Delhi TKD ICD
Ankleshwar Grand Total
In January 2017, 87 countries imported spun yarn from India, with China at the top accounting for 35 per cent of the total value with imports surging 56.1 per cent in terms of volume YoY and rising 69.9 per cent in value YoY. Bangladesh was the second largest importer of spun yarns in January and accounted for around 13.8 per cent of all spun yarn exported from India. Export to Bangladesh declined 13 per cent in volumes and 2.1 per cent lower in value. Pakistan was the third largest importer of spun yarns, which saw volume rising 83.4 per cent while it was up 98 per cent in value. These three top importers together accounted for around 55.9 per cent of all spun yarns exported from India in January. Cotton yarn export was at 117.6 million kg in January with 77 countries importing yarn worth US$336.0 million (INR2,259 crore). The average unit price realization was at US$2.86 a kg, down US cent 1 from previous month and up US cents 19 from the same month a year ago. China was the largest importer of cotton yarn from India in January, followed by Bangladesh and Pakistan. The top three together accounted for more than 62 per cent of cotton yarn with combined volume at 76.1 million kg worth US$208.9 million. Hong Kong, USA, Thailand, Brazil and Ukraine were among the fastest growing markets for cotton yarn, and accounted for 5.7 per cent of total cotton yarn export value. Eighteen new destinations were added for cotton yarn export, of which, North Korea, Chile, Russia and Denmark were the major ones. Five countries did not import any cotton yarn from India, including Finland, Costa Rica, Sudan and Honduras. They had imported yarns worth US$0.69 million in January 2016. In January 2017, significant deceleration was seen in export to Argentina, Romania, United Arab Emirates, France and Canada. Combed cotton yarn accounted for 59.3 per cent of cotton yarn exported in January with volumes at 63.1 million kg worth US$199.2 million. Carded yarn export was at 37.9 million kg. Their respective unit value realization was US$3.16 per kg and US$2.55 per kg. Open ended yarn export was at 8.4 million kg at an average price of US$1.78 a kg.
YARN REPORT Manmade fibre yarns export continueS uptrend 100% man-made fibre yarns export was at 7.2 million kg in January, comprising 3.90 million kg of polyester yarn, 2.59 million kg of viscose yarn and 0.70 million kg of acrylic yarn. Polyester yarn exports were up 29.7 per cent in value while viscose yarn exports value rose 13.4 per cent during the month. Acrylic yarn exports plunged 56.5 per cent in January. Unit price realization was up US cents 3 a kg for polyester from a year ago and that of viscose yarn fell US cents 2 a kg. Acrylic yarn unit price realization declined US$0.86 a kg year on year basis. Polyester spun yarns were exported to 39 countries in January aggregating US$8.5 million with unit price realization averaging US$2.19 a kg. A total of 3.90 million kg was exported, of which, 22.2 per cent was shipped by Turkey alone. Eleven new destinations were found for polyester yarn this January, of which, Canada, Nigeria, Myanmar and Tunisia were the major ones. Viscose yarn export was valued at US$7.85 million or INR52.8 crore and volume at 2.59 million kg, implying average unit price realization of US$3.03 per kg. They were exported to 22 countries with Belgium at the top worth US$2.44 million. It was followed by Brazil with imports worth US$0.99 million. Both these markets accounted for 42.9 per cent of all viscose yarn exported in January. Morocco, Poland, Belgium, Egypt and Italy were the fastest growing markets for viscose yarns while Brazil, Portugal, Guatemala, South Africa and Ukraine were the new major markets. Pakistan, Saudi Arabia and Turkmenistan did not import any viscose yarns during the month.
Blended yarns export falls Blended spun yarns export was worth US$32.9 million in January, down 6.5 per cent YoY while volumes were down 7.1 per cent at 11.62 million kg. During the month, 5.5 million kg of PC yarns was exported worth US$14.4 million. Another 4.1 million kg of PV yarns valued at US$10.8 million were exported. Acrylic/cotton yarn prices were down 3 per cent YoY. In January, 1.64 million kg of other blend of yarns were exported worth US$6.4 million. Bangladesh and Brazil were the largest importers of PC yarn from India in January followed by Egypt. Romania, South Africa, Belgium, Ukraine and South Korea were the fastest growing markets for PC yarns while Turkey and Australia significantly reduced its import of PC yarns from India. Djibouti, Philippines, Venezuela and United Kingdom were among the 10 countries that did not import any PC yarns from India during January. Brazil and Italy were the major destination among the 8 new markets found in January. In January, US$10.84 million worth of PV yarns were exported from India with volumes at 4.1 million kgs. Turkey continued to be largest importer of PV yarns from India followed by Vietnam with total volume at 2.24 million kg worth at US$5.7 million. Vietnam and Brazil were the new major markets for PV yarn while 8 countries did not import any PV yarn during the month, including the major ones like Uganda and Morocco.
Filament yarns export increases In January, all types of filament yarns export aggregated 39.8 million kg, up 26.9 per cent YoY while value rose 24.9 per cent to US$62.2 million. Filament yarns include polyester, nylon, polypropylene and viscose filament yarns and were exported to 73 countries during the month. More than 89 per cent of filament yarns were of polyester, of which, DTYs were the largest at 75.1 per cent.
B. Fibre Exports - By Port â€˜000 Kgs
Hyderabad ICD Vizag Sea
Tuticorin ICD Ludhiana ICD
Ahmedabad ICD Madras Sea
During the month, 38.1 million kg of polyester filament yarns were exported worth US$55.6 million. Turkey and Bangladesh continued to be the major importers of polyester filament yarns, followed by Brazil. The three together accounted for 41.1 per cent of polyester filament yarn exports Brazil was also the major importer of polyester DTYs while Turkey was the major importer of PFYs. Sri Lanka was the major importer of nylon filament yarn in January with volumes at 95,790 kg worth US$0.5 million. In value terms, USA and Vietnam were the other largest markets for nylon filament in January, worth US$0.4 million. Polypropylene filament yarns were exported to 17 countries in January with volumes at 270,000 kg worth US$0.56 million. USA was the major importer of PP yarns. Sri Lanka and Oman were the other major importers of PP filament yarns in January. Around 1,067,000 kg of viscose filament yarns were exported in January to 21 countries from India valued at US$4.25 million. During the month, 177,000 kg of VFYs were exported to Japan. It was followed by USA and Czech Republic. Cotton export surge in January Cotton fibre export was at 244.8 million kg or 14,39,801 bales (of 170 kg each) in January which surged 77.2 per cent YoY and was valued at US$415.7 million, up 106.9 per cent. Bangladesh and Pakistan were the largest importers of cotton with combined volumes at 8,37,081 bales amongst the 27 countries that imported cot-
YARN REPORT ton from India. Exports of manmade fibre were at 10.5 million kg, worth US$15.03 million. These included ASF, PSF, VSF and PPSF. Bangladesh and USA were the largest importers of PSF during January while Pakistan and USA were also the major importers of VSF, in similar comparison. Mexico was the dominant buyer of ASF.
C. Filament Exports - By Port â€˜000 Kgs
JNPT Nagpur Tuticorin ICD
Cochin Sea Delhi TKD ICD
POST EVENT REPORT
ISCI fellowship award and Felicitation of Dr. K.R. Kranti Mumbai based Indian Society for Cotton Improvement (ISCI) awarded its fellowship to renowned cotton scientist, Dr. Keshav Raj Kranthi, Director of ICAR-Central Institute of Cotton Research (CICR), Nagpur on March 7, 2017 in recognition of his outstanding contribution in the field of cotton research & development and on his appointment as Head, Technical Co-ordination Section of the International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC), Washington (D.C.), USA. A felicitation function on this occasion was jointly organized by Indian Society for Cotton Improvement (ISCI), ICAR- Central Institute for Research on Cotton Technology (CIRCOT), Confederation of Indian Textile Industryâ€“Cotton Development & Research Association (CITI-CDRA) and South Asia Biotechnology Centre (SABC). Dr. P.G. Patil, Director, ICAR- CIRCOT welcomed all the dignitaries and guests and apprised them about the significant achievements of the institute. The fellowship was awarded to Dr. Kranthi by Padma Vibhushan Dr. Anil Kakodkar, Former Chairman, Atomic Energy Commission & Secretary to Govt of India who applauded the contribution of Dr. Kranthi in the field of cotton development in India and wished that he would continue his achievements in the new assignment. Shri Suresh Kotak, Trustee of Kotak Research Foundation, Mumbai and Chairman, ISCI, praised the contributions of cotton researchers and suggested for development of improved methodologies to increase the cotton productivity since the land availability is limited in India. Dr. C.D. Mayee, Former Chairman, ASRB and President, ISCI presided over the function and congratulated Dr. Kranthi for his key role played in linking the Government and Industry with the cotton growing farmers. Dr. Kranthi, in his award acceptance speech, thanked all the well-wishers and promised to continue his good work for the progress of Indian cotton community. Dr. A.J. Shaikh, Former Director of ICAR-CIRCOT & Secretary ISCI, delivered the vote of thanks.
POST EVENT REPORT
Proceedings of 57th Joint Technological Conference Four leading textile research institutes in India viz. BTRA, Mumbai, ATIRA, Ahmedabad, SITRA, Coimbatore and NITRA, Ghaziabad have been organising Joint Technological Conferences over the years. In this annual event, latest finding of the research programs with reference to the latest technological developments are disseminated. In this context, 57th Joint Technological Conference was held at BTRA, Mumbai on 17th and 18th February, 2017. Nearly, 300 delegates from industry, trade and academics participated in this conference. The highlight of this conference was one full day on ‘Geosynthetics’, under the sponsorship of Textile Commissioner’s Office, Ministry of Textiles, GoI and the other day was devoted to R&D in Emerging Areas, Protective Textiles, Product Development, Eco-friendly process, etc. related to traditional textiles. The event was inaugurated by Dr. Kavita Gupta, Textile Commissioner, Ministry of Textiles, GoI. Dr. Kavita Gupta, in her inaugural address, said that in India only 10% of textile products belong to technical textiles as compared to developed nations such as Germany where 50% of textile products belong to technical textile category. Current market size of technical textiles in India is Rs. 1 lakh crore and the market is growing at 20% CAGR. In order to grow in high value technical textiles segment, we should focus on research that is demand based and market driven. Moreover, ability to translate research output in to commercialisation is the need of the hour. She stressed the importance of the link between academia and the industry. Dr. Anjan K. Mukhopadhyay, Director, BTRA welcomed the dignitaries and the delegates. He briefed the audience about this conference profile and said that one full day was devoted to ‘Geosynthetics’ that could open up an avenue for the conventional textile manufacturers to interact with Geosynthetics manufacturers/ users to know the opportunities available in terms of machinery, processes, etc. to make technical textile products, especially geosynthetics. He also said German Textile Machinery Manufacturing Companies have also taken part in this conference by way of presentations on needle-felt nonwoven and latest machine innovations on treatment of Geotextiles. Mr. Narendra Dalmia, Deputy Chairman, Governing Council, BTRA presided over the inaugural session. In his presidential speech, he talked about the research projects of all four TRAs currently in progress and their findings as well as the operational per-
formance. He said that innovation is the key word and this is where the Research Associations play an important role and appreciated excellent work done by all the four TRAs to help the industry in its goal to have better operational efficiency. Mr. Rajesh Nath, the Managing Director for VDMA in India made the Key note address introducing VDMA, Textile Machinery and the solutions and competence of VDMA members also in the area of machinery, plants and components for geotextiles applications. This year, VDMA completes 125 years with its presence in Germany. With the theme of the event being Geotextiles, he spoke about Geotextiles being ambitious textile products that are tailor-made according to the intended application. Depending on application, the soil quality has also to be considered when choosing geotextile material. Nonwovens, woven and warp-knitted geotextiles, geogrids, of all geotextiles used around the world, nonwovens were estimated to make up over 65 % in terms of area. In order to produce tailor-made geotextiles, appropriate machinery is needed and VDMA can guide the industry to the right manufacturers as per the requirement. Dr. C.R. Prayag, Officiating Director, ATIRA proposed vote of thanks. First day proceedings In this two-day conference, first day was allotted exclusively for ‘Geosynthetics’ and personnel from geosynthetics manufacturers, users of geosynthetics and TRAs presented their papers. There were 5 technical sessions in the first day. In the first session, chaired by Mr. S. Bagli, Chief Technology Officer, Strata Geosystems, Mumbai, two papers were presented. One is on ‘Geosynthetics: Challenges in using in Navi Mumbai projects’ by Prof. Anand.R. Katti, Professor, Datta Meghe College of Engineering, Navi Mumbai & Managing Director, Nagar Yuwak Shikshan Sanstha, Airoli and another on ‘Application of Geosynthetics in Canals’ by Mr. Vivek P. Kapadia, Chief Engineer & Addl. Secretary, Water Resource, Gandhinagar, Gujarat. The papers were well received by the audience and good interaction was seen during question and answer session. In the second session, two papers were presented. This session was chaired by Mr. Vivek P. Kapadia, Chief Engineer & Addl. Secretary, Water Resource, Gandhinagar, Gujarat. The first paper was on
POST EVENT REPORT ‘Metal net covered sand fill bags for erosion and flood control’ by Ms. Sonal Kulkarni, Maccaferri Environmental Solutions Pvt. Ltd. , Gurgaon and second one was on ‘Geosynthetic systems for coastal erosion control with case reference of Alleppay Kerala’ by Mr. Rohit Chaturvedi, Vice President Business Development, Flexituff International Ltd., Madhya Pradesh. The third session was chaired by Mr. Guru Vittal, Chief Scientist, CRRI, New Delhi. The following three papers were presented. • Strengthening of road subgrade and slope stabilization using Jute Geosynthetics-Mr. Pradip Kr. Choudhury, Principal Technologist, National Jute Board, Kolkata • Geogrids for retaining walls – Mr. Satish Naik, Chief Executive Officer ,Best Geotechnics Pvt. Ltd, Mumbai • Geostrap for RE walls – Mr. Mangesh Shinde, Divisional Head (South & West Region), Reinforced Earth India Pvt. Ltd., Navi Mumbai Prof. A. R. Katti, Professor, Datta Meghe College of Engineering, Navi Mumbai & Managing Director, Nagar Yuwak Shikshan Sanstha, Airoli, chaired the fourth session. Two papers viz., (i) Rehabilitation for existing landfills – Mr. Aditya Agarwal, CEO, Jeevan Products, Navi Mumbai and (ii) Hydraulic properties of geo-textiles: An experimental study - M/s. Seema Patel, R.V. Chikhani, Rajesh Patel and Jignesh Patel, ATIRA, were presented. In the fifth session, Prof. S.G. Vinzenekar, Ex. Principal, VJTI, Mumbai chaired the proceedings. The following three papers were presented in this session. • Challenges and potentials of using Geosynthetics in Road and Bridges by Mr. P.L. Bongirwar, Retired Principal Secretary, PWD • Vacuum PVD for fast soil stabilization by Mr. V.V. Vaishampayan, Managing Director, Soham Foundations, Navi Mumbai • Geotechnical expertise at BTRA by Mr. Sri Ramchandran, BTRA Second day proceedings In the second day, there were 7 technical sessions. Papers from all four TRAs were presented in the areas of protective textiles, emerging areas, spinning, product development, eco-friendly products, etc. In the end, there was a special session by German Textile Machinery (VDMA), in which two papers were presented. The focus of the First session was ‘Emerging Areas’ chaired by Dr. M.K. Talukdar, Kusumgar Corporates Pvt. Ltd., Mumbai. There were three papers in this session and all were from BTRA. Titles were as follows. • Use of electron beam irradiation for solution of biodegradation enhancement in textile industry by M/s. Smita Deogaonkar, Megha Patel, BTRA and Kaushlesh P. Rawat, BARC • Development of silver coated electro-conductive cotton fabric using electron beam radiation technology by M/s. Kumar Krishnanand and Amol G. Thite ,BTRA • Adhesion improvement of coated textiles by atmospheric plasma treatment by M/s. Pratik Joshi and Shital Palaskar ,BTRA In the second session, following two papers related to ‘Protective Textiles’ were presented. Dr. A.K. Rakshit, Executive Director, ITTA, Mumbai chaired the proceedings. • Protective textiles to protect against electromagnetic radiation - M/s. Pawan Sharma, Seema Patel and C.S. Vora , ATIRA • Development of work wear for workers working in cement in-
dustry - M/s. M.S. Parmar, Shweta Saxena, Vasundhara Verma and Satypriya Dash (M/s Arvind Ltd) [NITRA] Prof. S.G. Vinzenekar, Ex. Principal, VJTI, Mumbai chaired the third session on ‘Spinning’. The following three papers were presented. • A new approach on study of twist contraction levels in modern ring spinning process by M/s. D. Jayaraman and V. Vijayajothi ,SITRA • Influence of combing of polyester/cotton blended material on yarn quality compared to the traditional processes by M/s. D. Jayaraman and N. Vittopa, SITRA • Achievable levels of UKG in modern spinning mills (Present and Future scenario) by M/s. N. Vasanth Kumar and S. Chandirasoodan ,SITRA Chairman of the fourth session was Dr. Anirban Guha, Associate Professor, IIT Bombay and the session topic was ‘Product Development’. The following three papers were presented. • Concept paper on development of nano-fibre based water filtration device for human beings by Mr. Chetan Mahajan, ATIRA • Electronic drape tester based on image analysis technique by M/s. Arindam Basu, Sanjeev Shukla, Krishan Dewan and Paurush Godhar, NITRA • Development of smoothness testers for finished fabrics by M/s. M.S. Parmar, Nidhi Sisodia, Maheshwar Singh and Vasundhara Verma, NITRA In the fifth ‘General’ session, the following three papers, dealing with spinning productivity, garment work practices and water conservation in textile wet processing, were covered. Prof. S.G. Vinzenekar, Ex. Principal, VJTI, Mumbai chaired this session. • Productivity in spinning mills-2016 (based on SITRA’s 33rd Productivity Survey) by M/s. J. Sreenivasan and P. Subash, SITRA • A study of work practices in Indian garment factories by M/s. Vivek Agarwal, M.M. Tiwari, Shweta Saxena, Kushagra Prakash and M.K. Bansal, NITRA • Practical approaches for water conservation in textile wet processing by M/s. Tanaji Kadam and M.S. Kulkarni, BTRA Prof. D.P. Chattopadhyay, Professor, M.S. University, Vadodara chaired the sixth session on the topic of ‘Eco-friendly Products’. There were two papers and the same are given as follows. • Eco-friendly jute reinforced composite based toilet with biodigester by M/s. Kiran Dev, T. Gangopadhyay, Ashok Kumar, M. Karthigeyan, Pravin Patel, K.K. Misra, C.S. Vora and S.S. Rathod, AITRA • Development of infant baby clothings using ecomordant and natural dyes on cotton fabric with antibacterial activity by M/s. K. H. Prabhu, S. Sivakumar and E. Prakash, SITRA In the last session, personnel from German Textile Machinery (VDMA) presented the following two papers. • Mr Hjalmar Schwab, Sales Manager, DILO Systems on “Latest technique and technology for the production of needle felted nonwovens and their applications” • Mr Juergen Hanel, Business Development Manager-Technical Textiles, A. Monforts Textilmaschinen on “Latest machine innovations for treatment of Geotextiles“ In the end, Dr. Anjan K. Mukhopadhyay, Director, BTRA thanked all those who have contributed for the success of this event.
Australian cotton delegation in India Australian cotton delegation to explore cooperation between Australia & India in textile and cotton An eight member Australian cotton delegation is visiting India between 27th February to 3rd March 2017. The delegation representing the Australian Cotton Shippers Association (ACSA) is meeting with textile manufacturers and spinning mills in Ludhiana, Mumbai and Coimbatore. The delegation is visiting to bolster opportunities for exporting high quality Australian cotton to India. India has consistently purchased Australian cotton year-on-year, but last year’s monsoonal conditions and the resulting smaller Indian crop resulted in increased demand for Australian cotton by Indian mills to maintain production. Australia produced 626.2 KT of cotton lint valued at A$1,412.7 million in 2016. In 2016, The International Cotton Advisory Committee ranked Australia as the fifth largest exporter behind USA, India, Brazil and Uzbekistan. China, India, Vietnam, Bangladesh and Indonesia are major buyers of Australian cotton with Australian cotton exports to India this past year valued at A$ 335.6 million.
tralia is a leading supplier of high quality fibre to global markets. Australia has an enviable reputation as a reliable supplier of very high quality cotton. Australian cotton exporters have been long term and reliable suppliers to India’s textile industry. We are looking to growing this relationship as India’s cotton textile manufacturing continues to grow”. Australian Cotton Shippers Association Chairman Mr Matthew Bradd stated that Australian merchants are very excited to be visiting India and sharing the Australian cotton story. “Australia is a leading supplier of high quality fibre to the world market. Added to this we have a whole-of-industry commitment to continue to improve on every area of production with best management practices applied to the entire supply chain from cotton growing to ginning and classing right through to export.” For more information about the delegation and partnering with Australian cotton industry, please contact Anirban Deb, Australian Trade and Investment Commission at +91 11 4575 6224 or at Anirban.Deb@austrade.gov.au
Australian cotton has been well received by Indian mills and appreciated for its superior quality characteristics, consistent quality and zero contamination. The Australian cotton industry invests enormous resources into breeding better varieties and agronomic practices to produce cotton fibre that has excellent quality characteristics and is grown in a sustainable manner. Added to this, researchers have developed procedures and tools to assess spinning ability and fibre attributes with a focus on improved spinning and dyeing ability. Speaking about the delegation, Mr Gregory Harvey, Trade Commissioner, Australian Trade & Investment Commission said, “Aus-
KEY CHALLENGES FACING AUSTRALIA’S COTTON INDUSTRY Cotton Australia represents the interests of growers across significant challenges that
face the industry, including:
WATER As with any cropping industry, access to water is vital for cotton production. The industry has delivered a 40% improvement in water use efficiency over the past decade, utilising significant investment in waterefficient irrigation infrastructure and practices. Further efficiency improvements continue to be a key focus for the industry. Cotton Australia works with both Federal and StateGovernments to ensure the reliability and security of water property rights are not undermined and water access remains affordable.
ENERGY Cotton growers and other irrigators have been subject to sustained electricity price rises, in some cases up to 300% since the year 2000 (with inflation at less than 50% over the same period). The primary causes are network tariff increases. Cotton Australia works with governments, regulators, networks and retailers to ensure affordable access to electricity.
The industry also relies very heavily on diesel for its production and is a very strong advocate for maintaining the Diesel Fuel Rebate. The industry also recognises that it must strive for energy efficiency and has invested heavily in energy efficiency research and extension.
TRANSPORT Agriculture is high-tech but seasonal, requiring the movement of specialised equipment at time-critical points in order to avoid losses and guarantee efficiency. Cotton Australia advocates for a regulatory regime that allows forthe cost effective movement of equipment and produce.
LABOUR Appropriately skilled workers can be in short supply in many regional areas, creating inefficiencies, cost to businesses and stifling productivity. Cotton Australiafocuses on ensuring that there is a skilled workforceavailable to meet all the demands of the industry.
MINING / CSG Cotton Australia works with federal and state legislators and regulators to take strong steps to protect water and land resources and the land access rights of our growers. This includes ensuring that there is an appropriate regulatory framework, transparency within the approvals process and support for the enforcement of conditions of consent through adequate resourcing of compliance staff and funding of prosecutions.
COST OF PRODUCTION One of the biggest challenges facing any farmer is managing the costs of production, and the cotton industry is no exception. On top of expensive energy, growers must manage high input costs such asbiotechnology, diesel fuel, additional irrigation water (ifrequired, and available), on top of high-value machineryrequired to sow and pick the harvest. Cotton Australia works with suppliers and regulatorsto ensure input costs remain affordable and do not threaten the viability of Australia’s cotton industry.
“ I love this world because it is imperfect. It is imperfect, and that’s why it is growing; if it was perfect it would have been dead. “ by Osho
Think Taiwan for Textiles - The best sourcing hub for functional & eco-textiles “Think Taiwan for Textiles”, a slogan that has taken on many meanings, whether you are looking for textile innovation, fashion, sustainability or just reliable consistent communication, Taiwan is the place to start and finish. The Taiwanese textile industries have been long time leaders in the development of environmentally friendly concepts and are leaders in recycled polymer and polymer blends. From yarns for apparel, industrial and sport accessories, recycled yarns are growing in importance and are a core part of the Taiwan textile industry. Eco friendly, sustainable practices have become a core background of Taiwan textile development. However, innovation is still the critical glue that keeps it all together. New products are what keep the engine going, making the value proposition irresistible.
need, made in the geographic area that works best for the various companies tax and or policy initiatives that fits your needs. Taiwan brings a designed integrated flexibility in apparel from a group of innovative world class textile companies. The strongest growing category in apparel today is the classification of casual sport. Garments that look good working out in a gym and at the same time get you to the mall, work or just relaxing at home. The broad product offerings, technical attributes and fabric flexibility puts the Taiwan industry in a unique position. No other place has everything you need so compactly organized in the realm of a huge dynamic textile market, Taiwan has it all. Taiwan textile manufacturers are promoting sustainability, technological innovation and new functionalities textiles at TECHNOTEX 2017
Fashion as part of function and eco-friendly textiles is an important factor. Fashion is taking on new meanings as smart textiles and wearable tech products flood our lifestyle. The proximity and close ties of the Taiwan technical products industry helps lead the way. Ranging from smart metallic yarns, heat sensitive color phase finishes and heating and cooling textiles coordinated with battery and energy conserving processes, the ideas and potential seems limitless. Fashion in apparel and casual sport yoga inspired sportswear is evident as this market is expanding. New yarn developments allowing multiple looks and textures are driving innovation. Soft, crisp, vibrant or mellow, inspired market looks and touches are there. Mixtures of new technologies and fashion allow new design elements that were hard to imagine in the past. Polymer based yarn developments in polyester, nylon, recycled and blended with natural fibers lead the way. You can have the look and feel of natural fiber fabrics with the performance and flexibility of synthetics. Comfortable, breathable, wind and water resistant textiles mixed and matched in breathtaking design elements. Add in odor control and a myriad of product enhancements allowing new and innovative design directions bringing the consumer endless options.
Thanks to a surge in global demand for sustainability, technological, innovation and new functionalities textile, Taiwan’s textile manufacturers are surfing the wave by catering to the wellness generation, getting the production more cost-effective and going greener.
The final piece of the Taiwan textile value equation is the vertical integration of many of its core textile suppliers into the finished garment business. Garments for yoga, outdoor, fleece and traditional woven apparel and knits of all types can be sourced directly with Taiwanese companies that have facilities in multiple international locations designed to deliver the quality and price you
Meet us and get to know us.
At TECHNOTEX 2017, TTF will bring an exhibiting delegation of 8 Taiwan excellent textile suppliers and ‘Taiwan Select’ will display the highlights of participant exhibitors. The Taiwan Select is under the Textile Export Promotion Project”, which is commissioned by the Bureau of Foreign Trade. Moreover, the sourcing support for buyers as well as manufacturers and the updated Taiwan Textile industry information will be available at Taiwan Select. Please visit Taiwan Select (booth no. 42.2) and Taiwan Pavilion (booth no.42.1~43.5) for sourcing the innovative, sustainable, reliable products from Taiwan. Event: TECHNOTEX 2017 Date: 12-14 April | Time: 10.00 am to 6.00 pm Venue: Hall V, Bombay Convention & Exhibition Centre (BCEC), Goregaon (East), Mumbai-63,India The Taiwan Textile Industry has made it easier for you to get to know us every year. You can even find us on our informative “Think Taiwan for Textiles “web site http://365.textiles.org.tw for all the latest TTF news and events.
VEERMATA JIJABAI TECHNOLOGICAL INSTITUTE ORGANISES VASTRA 2017 EVENT The Department of Textile Manufacturing has announced its technical fest Vastra’17 at the premises of Veermata Jijabai Technological Institute (VJTI), Matunga, Mumbai on April 8, 2017. VJTI is one of the premier engineering institutes in India with a legacy spanning 128 years. The technofest Vastra has a history of being a confluence of visionary alumni students and corporate leaders from the field of textile science. This year, Vastra will be opening new avenues for interaction among textile enthusiasts from all across the country. The theme for the year is technical textiles. The organizers plan to showcase global trends in the fields of eco-textiles and nano-textiles. The focus will also be on the ways
in which Indian ecosystem is keeping pace with these trends. Vastra’17 is powered by ITME. The tech fest will witness among other events, competitions like technical quiz, paper on poster presentation, product marketing and spontaneous sketching. Vastra aims at providing a platform for students across India to engage with textile technocrats and win prizes worth Rs 50,000. The event is authorized by Dr.V.D. Gotmare (HOD of Textile Manufactures Department) and Dr. D.P.Kakad (Staff Co-Ordinator) for VASTRA’17. The event is organized by Shantan Raybage (Overall Co-Ordinator) and Sameer Memon (General Secretory).
ARVIND AND INVISTA “DECODE” THE FESTIVE COLLECTION FASHION SHOW SHOWCASES THE MULTIFACETED NATURE OF DENIM MAX® ALL SEASON Fabric and CORDURA® fabrics. These products with their strong performance properties provide a set of unique comfort and durability to the garments – a deeply desired feature by the end consumers. On this occasion, Mr.Aamir Akhtar, CEO, Denim Fabrics, Arvind Limited, commented, We today are here to showcase “Decode” the festive collection. Arvind Ltd every year comes up with new innovations in denim fabric and I promise today that we will be coming up with new innovations in fabric every year. I thank Invista for believing in us and being there with us through this journey.”
EDITORS NOTES About Arvind Limited
The denim giant and the largest fiber producer, Arvind &Invista, are bringing their latest in innovation, design and sustainability for the Indian market. Arvind andInvistahave teamed up to launch the Festive collection for 2017- DECODE. Thisfresh and ultramodern collection is showcased in form of a spectacular display and a flamboyant runway show hosted at The Lalit, Mumbai choreographed by well-known choreographer Sheetal Sharma.
Arvind Limited is one of India’s largest integrated textile and apparel companies with a strong retail presence. Arvind is also the pioneer of denim in India with a turnover of around US$1.3 billion in FY2015-16. Arvind has an unmatched portfolio of owned, licensed brands and retail formats. The company’s own product
The festive’17 show DECODE, highlights the multifaceted nature of denim fabrics. It is said that denim remains as one of the most interesting, complex yet evolving fabrics of all time. In this show, Arvind and Invista unravel its mysterious personality and decode the denim language to discover its different aspects and its deep underlying meaning. The fashion show showcased an innovative line of Flip denims (reversible denims), Azurite (Arvind’s patented technology of premium saturated indigo fabrics), 360 degree MUTANTS™ (multidirectional stretch knit denims) and XL MUTANTS™ (wider width knits for better production efficiencies) to name a few. It showcases a collection of DENIM EXPRESS™ which is a speed to market solution of versatile fabrics that are always in vogue – a much needed requirement of the industry. The collection further extends to popular Arvind categories of BLUE NATIVES™, NEOBUBBLE™,BOOMERANG™ along with the bestsellers across the market. Other than the fashion show, the highlight was also the display for Khadi denim collection. Arvind recently received much appreciation globally for this phenomenal sustainable fabric. Arvind won the prestigious Global Denim Award for best fabric in October’16 at Amsterdam. The participants for the award included the top mills of the world like Candiani and Prosperity. Arvind and Invistaare now synonymous in the Industry for bringing out innovative technologies for the consumers. All Arvind stretch denims are powered by LYCRA® fiber and also include other Invista specialty products like COOLMAX® Everyday fabric, COOL-
brands include Megamart (recently rebranded as Unlimited), Flying Machine, Colt, Ruggers, Excalibur among others while its licensed product brands have big global names like GAP, Arrow, Gant, Izod, Elle, Cherokee, US Polo Assn, The Children’s Place and Sephora, to name a few. It has a joint venture in India with global majors Tommy Hilfiger and Calvin Klein. About INVISTA With leading brands including LYCRA® fiber, COOLMAX®, CORDURA®, STAINMASTER® and ANTRON®, INVISTA is one of the world’s largest integrated producers of chemical intermediates, polymers and fibers. The company’s advantaged technologies for nylon, spandex and polyester are used to produce clothing, carpet, car parts and countless other everyday products. Headquartered in the United States, INVISTA operates in more than 20 countries and has about 10,000 employees. For more information, visit INVISTA. com, Facebook.com/INVISTAglobal and Twitter.com/INVISTA.
BRAND FOCUS A.T.E.’s strategic partnership with Datatex builds client base for ERP in Indian textile industry A.T.E. joins hands with Jingmei for sales and service of circular knitting machines in India and Bangladesh A.T.E. has joined hands with Quanzhou Jingmei Machine Co., Ltd. to sell “Jingmei” brand circular knitting machines in India (except in Ludhiana city) and Bangladesh effective from February 2017. Jingmei is a well-known brand from China having already sold hundreds of circular knitting machines in India, Bangladesh, and other parts of the world which include China, Brazil, Mexico, Indonesia, Turkey, Pakistan, South Africa and Italy. The company is now wholly owned by the world renowned Santoni Group of Italy. Jingmeimanufactures the entire range of circular knitting machines in body size from 13” to 24”, as well as large diameters from 25” onwards upto 44” from 12G upto 40G, which include single jersey, three thread fleece, double jersey in rib and interlock, spacer fabric, auto striper in 4 and 6 colours, jacquard, striper jacquard, mattress ticking fabric, terry and reverse terry in tubular as well as open width configurations. High leg frames are also available on request.
gmei across India and Bangladesh. Certain essential spares shall also be maintained with A.T.E. for immediate distribution to the customers. Jingmei, which showcased its machines at the Knit-tech exhibition, Tirupur, and DTG 2017, Dhaka, in February 2017 has caught the attention of the knitting fraternity for its technical prowess and engineering excellence. The A.T.E.-Jingmei combination is now all set to provide the best-in-class products and services to the discerning customers in India and Bangladesh.
Of the production capacity of more than 1000 machines annually at Jingmei, 30% of the production is dedicated to exports, and the percentage is growing year on year. Jingmei has a unique R & D facility at its factory in Xiamen, to offer better products to its customers through continuous innovation. A single jersey tubular machine with 4 feeders/inch, 34” dia. and 28G has been installed in A.T.E.’s Surat showroom as a demo unit for customers, as well as to produce samples to convince customers on the quality of deliverables on Jingmei machines. Excellent service support is available both from A.T.E. and Jin-
A.T.E. joins hands with Jingmei for sales and service of circular knitting machines in India and Bangladesh A.T.E. has joined hands with Quanzhou Jingmei Machine Co., Ltd. to sell “Jingmei” brand circular knitting machines in India (except in Ludhiana city) and Bangladesh effective from February 2017. Jingmei is a well-known brand from China having already sold hundreds of circular knitting machines in India, Bangladesh, and other parts of the world which include China, Brazil, Mexico, Indonesia, Turkey, Pakistan, South Africa and Italy. The company is now wholly owned by the world renowned Santoni Group of Italy. Jingmeimanufactures the entire range of circular knitting machines in body size from 13” to 24”, as well as large diameters from 25” onwards upto 44” from 12G upto 40G, which include single jersey, three thread fleece, double jersey in rib and interlock, spacer fabric, auto striper in 4 and 6 colours, jacquard, striper jacquard, mattress ticking fabric, terry and reverse terry in tubular as well as open width configurations. High leg frames are also available on request.
(from left Mr Dinesh Singh – Infinite, Mr. Ronen Hagin – Vice President and Co-founder, Datatex, Mr G V Aras – Director, A.T.E. and Mr James Pates – A.T.E.)
for customers, as well as to produce samples to convince customers on the quality of deliverables on Jingmei machines. Excellent service support is available both from A.T.E. and Jingmei across India and Bangladesh. Certain essential spares shall also be maintained with A.T.E. for immediate distribution to the customers. Jingmei, which showcased its machines at the Knit-tech exhibition, Tirupur, and DTG 2017, Dhaka, in February 2017 has caught the attention of the knitting fraternity for its technical prowess and engineering excellence. The A.T.E.-Jingmei combination is now all set to provide the best-in-class products and services to the discerning customers in India and Bangladesh.
Of the production capacity of more than 1000 machines annually at Jingmei, 30% of the production is dedicated to exports, and the percentage is growing year on year. Jingmei has a unique R & D facility at its factory in Xiamen, to offer better products to its customers through continuous innovation. A single jersey tubular machine with 4 feeders/inch, 34” dia. and 28G has been installed in A.T.E.’s Surat showroom as a demo unit
Digital textile printing a focal-point theme at Texprocess First European Digital Textile Conference at Texprocess Exhibitors present the latest digital-printing technologies Colour and function: digital textile printing is one of the focalpoint themes at this year’s Texprocess. For the first time, the World Textile Information Network (WTiN) is holding the European Digital Textile Conference at Texprocess. And there will be a separate lecture block on digital printing in the programme of the Texprocess Forum. Moreover, the Digital Textile Microfactory in Hall 6.0 will present a textile production chain in action - from design, via digital printing and cutting, to making up. As well, numerous exhibitors, including Brother, Epson, Ergosoft and Mimaki, will be showing digital printing technologies. ‘We are expanding our programme on the subject of digital printing in response to the growing demand for digitalised technologies for processing garments, technical textiles and flexible materials. This programme is of particular interest to manufacturers of technical textiles and companies that process textiles’, says Michael Jänecke, Head of Brand Management, Textiles and Textile Technologies, Messe Frankfurt. Elgar Straub, Managing Director, VDMA Textile Care, Fabric and Leather Technologies: ‘Thanks to digital textile printing, it is now possible to print apparel, shoes and technical textiles directly. Given the general trend towards individualisation, demand for individualised products is increasing in the apparel industry. This is turning digital textile printing into one of the future oriented technologies for companies that process garments and textiles.’ European Digital Textile Conference at Texprocess In cooperation with Texprocess and Techtextil, the World Textile Information Network (WTiN) will hold the European Digital Textile Conference at Texprocess for the first time. The focus of the conference will be on digital textile printing for adding functional and decorative features to technical textiles. The WTiN European Digital Textile Conference will take place in ‘Saal Europa’ of Hall 4.0 from 09.00 to 16.30 hrs on 10 May. Tickets for the conference can be obtained from WTiN underhttps://www.digitaltextileconference.com/edtc2017/ The subjects to be covered in the lectures include direct yarn colouring in the embroidery plants (Coloreel, Sweden), plasma pre-treatment for textiles before digital printing (GRINP, Italy) and chemical finishing for textiles using inkjet printing technology (EFIREGGIANI, USA). Texprocess Forum to spotlight digital printing technology Digital printing technology will also be the subject of a sepa-
rate lecture block at Texprocess Forum. At this international conference, experts from science and industry will focus on the latest findings relating to subjects of major importance to the sector in over 30 lectures and panel discussions on all four days of the fair. Texprocess Forum is free of charge for visitors of Texprocess and Techtextil and will be held in Hall 6.0. For the first time, three partner organisations are organising the lecture blocks: DTB - Dialogue Textile Apparel, the International Apparel Federation (IAF) and the World Textile Information Network (WTiN). Digital Textile Microfactory In cooperation with the German Institutes of Textile and Fibre Research Denkendorf (DITF) and renowned textile companies, Texprocess presents the complete interlinked textile production chain - the Digital Textile Microfactory - live in Hall 6.0. The digital-printing station shows large-scale inkjet printing in the form of sublimation printing on polyester and pigment printing on cotton and blended fabrics. Production orders can be combined flexibly and printed colour consistently with a variety of printing parameters. Ensuring optimum printing results at this station are hardware and software partners, Mimaki and Ergosoft, and Coldenhove and Monti Antonio. In addition to the Microfactory partners, other renowned companies, including Brother and Epson, will be showing state-of-theart printing processes for textiles and apparel at Texprocess. Digital-printing outlook Originally developed for fashion fabrics, digital textile printing is also used for printing technical textiles, such as sports clothing, and textiles for the automobile industry whereby the primary focus is on functionalising textiles. For example, swimwear can be made more colour fast to resist frequent contact with water and chlorine, and exposure to the sun. Also, textiles can be finished by applying chemicals via an inkjet printer and thus be given dirt-repellent, antimicrobial and fire-retardant properties. Additionally, using an inkjet printer in the finishing process is advantageous in terms of sustainability and efficiency. Texprocess is being held concurrently with Techtextil, International Trade Fair for Technical Textiles and Nonwovens, for the fourth time (also from 9 to 12 May 2017). Altogether, 1,662 exhibitors from 45 countries and 42,000 trade visitors came to Frankfurt am Main for the 2015 editions of Texprocess and Techtextil. Over 13,300 trade visitors attended specifically for Texprocess. They were supplemented by another 7,600 from the concurrent Techtextil.
“Friendship is the purest love. It is the highest form of Love where nothing is asked for, no condition, where one simply enjoys giving.” ― Osho March 2017
SHOW CALENDAR April 2017 2-5
Textyle Expo 2017 Place : Oran/ Algeria, info: www.textyle-expo.com INDEX 17 Place : Geneva/ Europe, nfo: www.edana.org Fibers & Yarns 2017 Place : Mumbai/ India, info: www.fibersnyarns.com VASTRA Place : Mumbai/ India, info: email@example.com Garfab –TX Place : Surat/ India, info: www.verdaanevents.in International Apparel & Textile Fair Place: Dubai/ UAE, info: www.internationalapparelandtextilefair.com Technotex 2017 Place : Mumbai/ India, info: www.technotexindia.in Textile Expo 2017 Place : Surat / India, info: www.textileexposurat.com TPF Digital Printing Place: Shanghai/ China, info: www.cstpf.com Opportunity in current challenge in Weaving Sector Place: Vapi/ Gujarat, info: www.textileassociationindia.com
May 2017 9-12
TECHTEXIL /TEXPROCESS Place : Frankfurt/ Germany , info: http://techtextil.messefrankfurt.com 16-18 BCI Global Cotton Conference Place : Berlin/ Germany, info: firstname.lastname@example.org 22nd Planet Textile Place: Bangalore / India, info: www.planet-textiles.com 22-23 3rd Defense –ITTA Exhibition & Conference Place : Delhi / India, info: www.ittaindia.org
June 2017 7-8
EurAsian Geotextile Symposium Place : Beijing / China, info: www.edana.org/education-events/conferencesand-symposia 8-10 Non Woven Tech 2017 Place : Mumbai/ India, info: www.nonwoventechasia.com 8-10 Fashion Connect / HOMTEX PLUS Place: Banglore/ India, info: www.fashionconnect.co.in , www.homtex.in
13-15 China Yiwutex International Textile Machinery 2017 Place : PR China, info: www.yiwutex.com 20-22 HEIMTEXTIL – INDIA Place: Delhi/ India, info: http://heimtextil-india.in.messefrankfurt.com 30- 2nd July The Textile India Conclave and Exhibition Place : Gandhinagar / Gujarat, info: CII /Textile Ministry
July 2017 4-6
HGH INDIA Place : Mumbai/ India, info: www.hghindia.com 5-8 GFT 2017 Place : Bitex/Bangkok, info: www.gftexpo.com 20-22 YARNEX 2017 Place: Delhi/ India, info: www.yarnex.in 20-22 F&A SHOW Place : Delhi/ India, info: www.fnashow.in 29-31 GARTEX 2017 Place : Delhi/ India info: http://gartexindia.com
August 2017 18-20 GTE – AHMEDABAD Place: New Delhi/ India, info: www.garmenttechnologyexpo.com
September 2017 13-15 TechTexil India 2017 Place : Mumbai/ India, info: http://techtextil-india.in.messefrankfurt.com 21-23 YARNEX / TEXINDIA Place : Tirupur/ India, info: www.yarnex.in , www.texindiafair.com
October 2017 29-31 Screen Print East Africa Place: Nairobi/ Kenya, info: www.screenprinteastafrica.com
November 2017 15-17 INTEX South Asia Place: Colombo/ Srilanka, info: www.intexfair.com 17-20 Texfair 2017 Place: Coimbatore / India, info: email@example.com 22-25 YFA SHOW 2017 Place : Delhi/ India, info: www.yfatradeshow.com
December 2017 7-10
ITMACH INDIA/ ITS Exhibition Place : Gandhinagar / Gujarat , info: www.ITMACH.com / www.ITSexhibition.com
German high quality products for ironing German products enjoy a very high reputation at the international clothing industry. The worldwide leading specialist for high quality ironing covers VOMATEX Germany is going to present the wide range of heat and pressure resistant foams, felts and textiles at the Texprocess fair which will be held in Frankfurt a.M, Germany, from 9.-12. May. Since 1968 the VOMATEX high German quality products are mainly used on industrial ironing tables and presses as well as fusing machines in clothing factories. Besides these articles are suitable for many other applications like textile bonding, fusing, thermo transfer printing and bending in industries like shoe, glass, aluminium, furniture, advertising and many others. Today the ironing covers market faces worldwide competition, especially by new suppliers from China, but all attempts to reach the superior price/cost ratio of high German quality covers from VOMATEX failed so far. Every international clothing factory and machine manufacturer is looking for a cost saving purchase of ironing covers, but cheap imitations are no solution. They do not last as long as VOMATEX high quality products and they quickly lose shape, elasticity and permeability, which is corrupting the look and the value of the clothing. Moreover inferior imitations cause more machine breakdown time which disturbs the continuous production process and costs more money than saved at the cheap purchase. Technicians, engineers and purchase managers who realized this correlation replaced the inferior covers with high quality articles from VOMATEX and did not only save cost but also improved the ironing result and the rating of their products. If you are looking for heat and pressure resistant coverings it is worth to visit VOMATEX on Texprocess in hall 6.0, booth B 60. (www.vomatex.de)
Leading International Trade Fair for Technical Textiles and Nonwovens techtextil.com
CONNECTING THE FUTURE 9 â€“ 12. 5. 2017, Frankfurt am Main Experience the textile industry of the future. Which innovations are changing this sector? Techtextil combines todayâ€™s fascinating textile opportunities with a vision of tomorrow. Come and discover exciting prospects for sales and revenue in the world of sports and leisure. firstname.lastname@example.org Tel. +91 22 61 44 59 00
in parallel with:
9 10 December 2017
Venue: The Exhibition Centre, Helipad Ground, Sector-17, Gandhinagar, Gujarat, India
SPACE BOOKING: Arvind Semlani Cell: +91 9833977743 | Email: info@ITMACH.com Radhika Boddu Cell: +91 9867127598 | Email: email@example.com Bhadresh Mistry Cell: +91 9426012207 | Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Bhavesh Thakar Cell: +91 9375322449 | Email: email@example.com
Innovation• Sustainability • Relability
Taiwan Select at 42.2 Taiwan Pavilion at 42.1~43.5 TECHNOTEX 2017 Date: 12-14 April | Time: 10.00 am to 6.00 pm Venue: Hall V, Bombay Convention & Exhibition Centre (BCEC), Goregaon (East), Mumbai-63
SIRIUS TWISTING TECHNOLOGY
Excellence through time
Sirius represents the Savio proposal in the field of traditional Two-forone twisting, ensuring high structural standardization, a wide range of feeding and spindle dimensions for every yarn type and count. The electronic solutions simplify the operator intervention, allowing to obtain every possible combination of parameters in order to reach the best output working condition.
SIMPLE, RELIABLE STATE OF THE ART TWISTING
Excellence through time
Cosmos represents a further Savio proposal in the field of traditional Two-for-one twisting, ensuring maximum cost-effectiveness of the technological process through manufacturing solutions that allow a reduction in investment with a minimum of energy consumption. In this way, the machine productivity, the quality of the end product, the technological flexibility are maximized together with low investment cost.
SAVIO INDIA LTD Nallattipalayam, Tamaraikulam Post Pollachi, Coimbatore 642109 Tamil Nadu, India Phone : +91 4259 304555 Fax : +91 4259 304567 www.savioindia.com www.textilevaluechain.com
SAVIO MACCHINE TESSILI S.P.A. 33170 PORDENONE (Italy) Via Udine, 105 www.saviospa.com
"Our customers benefit from our sustainable e-save solutions for the production of manmade fibers within growth markets like textile and apparel, infrastructure, transportation, food, energy and electronics. â€œ Georg Stausberg, CEO Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment
From Melt to Yarn, Fibers and Nonwovens It all starts with a few chemicals. Transforming these into smart clothing, technical textiles or tire cord requires great ideas, outstanding equipment and sophisticated processes. Oerlikon Manmade Fibers engineers support you in ensuring that your entire project is a total success. We will accompany you on your journey from chemical product to manmade fibers. From engineering and polycondensation to spinning, texturing and nonwoven production. From Melt to Yarn, Fibers and Nonwovens.
For further information visit us at www.oerlikon.com/manmade-fibers
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RECYCLING TECHNICAL TEXTILE / FASHION INDUSTRY