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ISSN No.: 2278-8972 RNI No.: MAHENG / 2012 / 43707 JULY - 2015 Voume 3 Issue 7 Pages 44

TUFS revamping with rural bias

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EDITORIAL

Large Canvas of the Textile Industry The textile industry is looking forward to substantially boosting, as export performance in the near future primarily on the strength of upgraded technology, domestic availability of fibers and commited labour force and praise worthy technical support. Fortuitous circumstances like the likely slowdown in China may make its task easier. At the same time, things are not shaping as the industry would like them to shape on the national horizon. The industry has to face adverse head winds because of the disruption in domestic demand as a sequel to strong inflationary trends in the economy. What is really agitating the industry is the gathering of dark clouds on the flagship scheme of TUFS. From the news trickling from the corridors of the udyog bhawan, it appears all that the industry might get is one time capital subsidy probably on an enhanced scale. There is certainly a good case for reshaping TUFS, in view of the heavy arrears of the support due to the industry, as the apex body of the textile industry.

Shri V.Y. Tamhane Editorial Advisor All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith.

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CONTENT Cover Story :TUFS revamping with rural bias 11 Large Canvas of the Textile Industry – Ex position of ShriPrakashBhagwati

JULY 2015 ISSUE EDITORIAL TEAM Editor & Publisher Ms. Jigna Shah Editorial Advisor Shri V.Y. Tamhane Consulting Editor Mr. Avinash Mayekar Graphic Designer Mrs. Bhavana Pore Advertising & Sales Md. Tanweer

INDUSTRY

Mr. Devchand Chheda City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group) Mr. Manohar Samuel President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries Dr. M. K. Talukdar VP, Kusumgar Corporates Mr. Shailendra Pandey VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon Mr. Ajay Sharma GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group)

EDUCATION / RESEARCH

Mr. B.V. Doctor HOD knitting, SASMIRA Dr. Ela Dedhia Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College Dr. Mangesh D. Teli Professor, Dean ICT Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay Principal Scientist & Head MPD Dr. Rajan Nachane Retired Scientist, CIRCOT

CONSULTANT / ASSOCIATION

Mr. Shivram Krishnan Senior Textile Advisor Mr. G. Benerjee Management & Industrial Consultant Mr. Uttam Jain Director PDEXCIL; VP of Hindustan Chamber of Commerce Mr. Shiv Kanodia Sec General, Bharat Merchant Chamber Mr. N.D. Mhatre Dy. Director, ITAMMA

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12 Exhibitions As A Catalyst For Indus Trial Growth & Economic Prospeity 13 Case for enhancement in support not re duction 16 Textile Machinery Industry- A Big Opportunity NEWS 18 Government News 19 Association News ARTICLES 20 Wearable Computers by Scientist of Vaish nav Institute of Technology And Science, Indore 24 Defence Textiles & Camouflage Fabric by Mr. Arvind Sinha 28 Fashion retailing- the human touch by Mr. Vishnu Govind 39 Resilient Supply chain by Mr. Harish Chatterjee SHOW/ EVENT REPORT 27 ATDC 33 CMAI BRAND FOCUS 35 LIVA- Birla Cellulose 37 Batliboi & Inspiron 29 Cotton USA REPORT 30 Cotton ADVERTISER INDEX Back Page: Raymond Back Inside :Rieter Front Inside :INDIA ITME Page 3: NarainSysnthetics Page 5: Bajaj Fab Page 7 : SGS Innovation Page 8 : YNA Show

Page 9 :Rabatex Page 10 :ITMACH Page 36 :Indiatex 2016 Page 38 :Techtexil Page 40 : PRD Cotton Page 41 : Sanjay Plastic

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COVER STORY Large Canvas of the Textile Industry – Exposition of Shri Prakash Bhagwati - by Shri V.Y. Tamhane This Article is based on the candid views of Shri Prakash Bhagwati Chairman Textile Machinery Manufacturers and the interview he gave to the representative of this magazine – Editorial Advisor.

Shri Prakash Bhagwati Chairman, TMMA

At the seminar organized by FICCI [Federation of Indian Chambers of Commerce and Industry] at Ahmedabad, on measures for stimulating investments in the manufacturing sector, Shri Prakash Bhagwati, Chairman, Textile Machinery Manufacturers Association was forthright on emphasizing the importance of Textile industry in the national economy. He added that it was sufficient to refer to just three factors for the purpose, namely, creation of lakh of jobs with minimal qualifications at entry level, earning of sizeable quantum of foreign exchange and capability to meet growing domestic demand of demographically young. However, the textile industry does not possess any magic wand. It does require support and the major support is extended by the Textile Engineering Industry. In the days of high technology the winner must have [equipment which are] sophisticated, most modern highly productive and capable of producing fault-free and quality goods. There is a fierce competition in the international market for textiles which cannot be overlooked. At the same time, the traditional major players namely China and European countries are losing their grip on the textile market. Their decline is the cumulative effect of many factors, but the rising manpower cost. Shri Bhagwati was critical of the reduction in the allocations of funds for TUFS, which caused heavy backlog of arrears and left the textile industry starling. Unless on time, TUFS benefits were made available, he categorically pronounced that the investment in the industry might dwindle. The speed of disbursement of interest subsidy was an important factor influencing the level of investment. Continuing his address, Shri Bhagwati stated – l It is envisaged in Draft Textile Policy “Vision 2024-25” that domestic sale of textile industry should reach a production level of US$ 350 billion. Further, India has the potential to export textile & apparels worth US$ 300 billion by 2024-25 from its current level of US$ 40 billion. Thus the size of the industry should grow to US $ 650 billion by 2024-2025. l This would maximise employment generation and value creation within the country. In the process, investment of about US$ 120 billion would take place and about 35 million additional jobs would get created. [Textile Engineering Industry] l The TEI in India is one of the five key capital goods industries l Consists of more than 1400 units, with a total investment of Rs. 9,100 Cr l More than 80% of the units are SMEs l Installed Capacity of TEI, is Rs. 10,500 Cr l Provides direct / indirect employment to > 285,000 persons l Meets 45-50% of the demand of the Indian textile industry While giving the reasons for high import of Textile equipment, he referred to the following factors: 1.

User textile industry is highly fragmented.

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2. Slow modernization as user industry is not subject to global competition. 3. With regard to spinning sector, TEI has no technology gap and is able to offer spinning equipment of world class quality. 4. However, for weaving and processing sectors, TEI is focusing more on customers who are in unorganized sector. As a result, wide technological gaps exists. Even used imported weaving machines are preferred over new low tech weaving machines, produced locally. 5. Gaps in technology as stated above have forced organized textile industry to go for high import of modern equipment enabling them to compete in export market. Long term strategy for indigenous development of technology for equipment to be “Made in India” related to weaving, processing and garmenting where technological gaps exist. In order to reverse the trend of import in favour of local supply of equipment to textile industry, following measures are suggested. New policy measures should encourage local as well as foreign direct investment in textile engineering industry. l Cluster approach for development through institutional linkages like IIT-Delhi &Powai, CMTI should be encouraged by government (DHI) for machines and components, as identified above. l TMMA has been able to organize on similar line as stated above, a suttleless loom development project between 5 of its member units with Central Manufacturing Technology Institute(CMTI), Bengaluru. DHI will fund, 80% of the project cost. l Creating Technology Acquisition Fund: Textile Industry and TEI is migrating from Europe to Asian countries. This has resulted into reputed manufacturers of textile equipment closing downin Europe. Their technology can be acquired from earmarked funds, either for individual Indian unit or for Clusterof TEI Units. lImport should be permitted at zero or nominal rate of duty for a period of 3 years. After this timeframe, duty should be raised to 15%. This will facilitate Indian sector to acquire new, technically superior machinery at reasonable costs and also signal foreign machinery manufacturers to invest in India. l TUF scheme should not be changed for 10 years period. Allocation of funds for TUF in respective yearin the central budget should be made in consultation with industry. l In order to promote investment in textile machinery manufacturing it is recommended that incentives under Scheme of Hire Purchase and TUFS in specific segments should be made available only on indigenous machinery after period of 3 years. This will give sufficient time for international and Indian investors to join hands or make independent investments for manufacturing machinery within India. l At present TUFS benefits are not available for second hand machinery except specific shuttleless looms. In order to promote

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usage of latest technology machineries and promote machinery manufacturing investments it is recommended that import of second hand machinery should not be encouraged except in case of select technical textile and nonwoven machinery. l RRTUF Scheme.-Benchmarking of only domestic loom manufacturers should be removed. This is an injustice. l Introduce Scheme Similar to TUF – For modernisation of (Textile Engineering Industry)TEI. l Inverted Import Duty Structure: Existing customs tariff on Textile machinery and components are inverted in nature‐ import of complete machinery attracts 5% basic customs duty in general while raw materials and number of components attract an average duty rate of 7.5% and above. For promoting indigenization of machinery manufacturing, basic duty of complete machinery should be at least 5% higher than on inputs. It is recommended that a detailed exercise should be carried out to assess whether the import duty on the raw material needs to be decreased or import duty on complete textile machinery need to be increased to maintain this differential. The likely contours of the new Textile Policy is available from the unanimous Report of the Export Committee constituted by the Ministry of Textiles under the Chairmanship of Shri Ajay Shankar, Member-Secretary with the captains of the textile industry as its

Members. This would open tremendous opportunities on unbelieveable scale. Shri Bhagwadi was hopeful that on the strength of four inherent factors, assured domestic availability of good quality cotton, availability of skilled workers with the help of skill development programme of Central Government, Joint agreements for the use of international brands and improved Per capita domestic consumption to 30 meters , the steep climb of the textile industry from the present production of US $ 120 billion to the pinnacle of US $ 650 billion over a period of ten years, provided adequate Government support was available. With immense proud he recalled the initiative of TMMA in collaboration with the Ministry of Heavy Industry to launch the Central Machine Tools India Project, under which Five Machinery manufacturers had been selected on the basis of their present commitment for R and D. With the technology support from Machine Tool institute based at Bengalaru, and financial support of 80% of the project cost by the Central Government and 20% of the project cost being R and D expenses borne by the selected manufacturers, the day is not far off when Indian-manufactured state-of-artshuttle-less looms would become functional. q

EXHIBITIONS AS A CATALYST FOR INDUSTRIAL GROWTH & ECONOMIC PROSPERITY

Mrs. Seema Srivastava Director, INDIA ITME SOCIETY

Origin and early days of Exhibitions. The best-known ‘first World Expo’ was held in London, United Kingdom, in 1851, under the title “Great Exhibition of the Works of Industry of All Nations”. The Great Exhibition, as it is often called, was an idea of Prince Albert, Queen Victoria’s husband. The event was housed in an enormous glass building that came to be known as the Crystal Palace and is considered to be the first international exhibition of manufactured products. It was said at that time that “The Exhibition was the first time that the nations of the world had ever come together in one place, other than on a battlefield”. Even in its inception, ’The Great Exhibition’ influenced the development of several aspects of society, including art-and-design education, international trade and relations, and tourism. There were some 100,000 objects, displayed along more than 10 miles, by over 15,000 contributors. The biggest of all was the massive hydraulic press that had lifted the metal tubes of a bridge at Bangor invented by Stevenson. Next in size was a steamhammer that could with equal accuracy forge the main bearing of a steamship or gently crack an egg. There were adding machines a ‘sportsman’s knife’ with eighty blades from Sheffield. Canada sent a fire-engine with painted panels showing Canadian scenes, and a trophy of furs. India contributed an elaborate throne of carved ivory, a coat embroidered with pearls, emeralds and rubies, and a magnificent howdah and trappings for a rajah’s elephant. Amid all these wonders, there was the famous Koh-i-Noor diamond which drew

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public attention and excitement. More than six million people came through the Exhibition and the profit and many of the exhibition items were used to create what is now known as the Victoria and Albert Museum. Since its first official appearance in 1851, three distinctive phases can be distinguished in the history of exhibitions that of industrialization, of cultural exchange, and nation branding. Role of Exhibition in Industrialization: How exhibitions played important role in industrialization is visible from the world expositions, especially focused on trade held from 1851 to 1938 encouraging technological inventions and advancements. World expositions were the platforms where the state-of-the-art in science and technology from around the world were brought together. The world expositions of 1851 London, 1853 New York, 1862 London, Philadelphia (1876), 1889 Paris, 1893 Chicago, 1900 Paris, 1901 Buffalo, 1904 St. Louis, 1915 San Francisco, and 1933–34 Chicago were landmarks in this respect. This lead role in stimulating economics by exhibitions continues till date. Today in number of countries, events are accorded top priority by governments because they act as a catalyst for overall growth and employment generation. The most outstanding example and proof of key role of exhibition as a catalyst for industry, employment and economic growth are Germany and China. Post World War II - the German trade fair industry grew in direct proportion to its GDP growth. Exhibitions boost German economic output by over EUR 20 billion every year. They also ensure 226,000 people have full time jobs.

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Furthermore, exhibitions generate EUR 3.8 billion in taxes at the federal, state and municipal level. Various European studies have shown that trade fairs bring into play a powerful multiplier effect contributing to the extent of 10 to 12 times their turnover to the geographical area served. Estimating the worldwide turnover of the industry at EUR 25 to 30 billion, the economic impact of this activity, even by conservative estimates, would be around 250 billion. China’s GDP growth during last decade or so is directly proportional to growth in its exhibition industry. According to industry estimates, India’s exhibition industry already contributes to the extent of 94,000 crore rupees in terms of business generated at shows currently held in the country. Cultural & Social function of Exhibition: 1939 to 1987 saw a focus on cultural exchange and social function Trade fairs and congresses have always been platforms for the exchanging knowledge. In today’s knowledge-based society information has become a decisive resource & these events are major knowledge dissemination platform. Brand Promotion: From Expo ‘88 in Brisbane onwards, countries started to use world expositions more widely and more strongly as a platform to improve their national images through their pavilions. In a world where a strong national image is a key asset, pavilions became advertising campaigns, and the Expo a vehicle for ‘nation branding’. Improving national image was the primary participation goal for countries. Today’s world expositions embody elements of all three eras. They present new inventions, facilitate cultural exchange based on a theme, and are used for city, region and nation branding. How exhibition stimulate individual companies & products?

The key to winning a customer is to be able to connect, present, and capture interest. And the power of human senses; touch, feel, hear and see is infinite in an exhibition, making it the best marketing tool. The intend of visitors are focused on doing business and keen willingness to strike a bargain ensuring attention and interest of the key decision makers. Presence of Competition under same roof also facilitates understanding market hurdles, trends, sales pitch of competitor, price and technology comparison etc. All these are key factors influencing decisions on future market expansions, allocation of research budget, pricing policy, customer service etc. As an example I would like to cite India ITME Society creating excitement for Textile Industry & Textile Engineering Industry for India and its neighbouring region, single handled promoting Indian brand globally. This mega event has succeeded in promoting India as a key nation for Textile engineering industry, sourcing and manufacturing hub, attracting many foreign machinery manufacturers to invest and set up their manufacturing facility in the Country generating employment and business for ancillary industries. Decision maker’s, technocrat, Scientist, Consultants, Government officials, Students and Press Media from 97 Countries converge for a six day Tech fest and business every 4 year. Thus creating huge foreign exchange & revenue for the State Government, Hotel industry, Airline industry, Transport industry, Catering industry and other related services. This mega event generates permanent & temporary employment of 30,000 through 57 vendors during the event. The power of exhibitions and events to drive business and economic development is proven since its inception and its importance and role will continue to grow especially in this era of globalization. q

Case for enhancement in support not reduction In the last few days newspapers are carrying long reports about the likely reduction in number of centrally-sponsored schemes. It is a quiet coincidence that at the same time ,some adverse news is circulating about the proposed changes in the Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme [TUFS] which might weaken the support to the textile industry. TUFS was launched by the Central Government in April 1999 to reduce the interest burden on term loans so as to stimulate large investments in the entire textile value chain. Till date, investments amounting to bout 3 lakh crore of rupees have been made. Canvas of the industry Impact of TUFS between 1998-99 and 2014-15, during the operation of TUFS till date, spun yarn production recorded the longest jump of nearly 100%, the respective figures being 2808M kg and 5485 M kg. the growth in cloth production fell short of the record made by yarn, cloth production increased from 35543 million kg meters in 1998-99 to 64221 million kg meters in 2014-15. Ie.Growth of 80%. The sad part of the cloth segment is the slow growth of the mill sector, after the decade of the composite mills towards the late 1990s & early 2000s. In the present world of discerning buyers, it is the composite mills which a better chance to score international made textiles. A net worthy development is the specular increase of more than 170% in the production of the hosiery cloth. This is as it should be with the increased purchases of casuals the world over, as a sequel be the augmented purchasing power. It seems the handloom sector has reached the climax of its capacity and the core seems to be likelihood of furthure growth in handloom fabrics.

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Shri V.Y.Tamhane By 2014-2015, what Indian has achieved a name for a self in the segment of spun yarn, home textiles and knitted garments. For ready reference check table 1, 2, 3 given alongside. Export The investment in benchmarked machinery in TUFS has opened the international market in a significant way. From a level of USD 8730 in 2001-2002 exports were climbed at USD 30747 IN 2014-2015. Surely textile industry deserves full throated praise for its excellent performance in earning foreign exchange. Table 4 compares export performance in 2001-2002 and 20142015. Employment The textile industry has allied more than 7 million workers as will be seen from table 5. The increase has taken place despite installation of high technology machines which require less number of workers.

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The serious concern of the industry originates from the inadequate allocation of funds. In the Central Budget for the current year, Rs.1520 crore has been provided which would take care of the backlog of interest subsidy payable in the preceding financial year. To meet fresh investments, the industry has projected the fund requirement of Rs.3,000crore. The industry’s calculation further estimates that another Rs.2500 crore would be needed to take care of left-out and blackout cases. Thus the total fund requirement is about Rs.5500 crore. Level of technology All types of spun yarns whether common or man-made, home textiles and garments are its prize products which are the most sought after in the international market. The present TUFS has covered a long distance in the upgradation of technology. However, modernization is a never-ending process. It will not be out of tune to refer to a misconception that the spinning sector is over modernized. The truth is that only 57% of spindles are modern and the balance is in the crying need of modernization. The International Textile Manufacturer’s Federation has estimated that at the rate at which technology was progressing, the entire machinery in a textile mill was required to be changed every 7/10 years to remain in alignment with the most modern technology. Naturally, the captains of the Indian Textile industry are worried if TUFS is abruptly discontinued, it will hurt the pace of modernization of a technology –driven industry. However, the present indications are that TUFS will not be altogether stopped, but it will be revamped. Revamping of TUFS Revamping does not mean mere readjustment of figures in the benefit matrix. Revamping has a wiser connotation and sweep. Revamping should start with the objective of the scheme. Any Government Scheme is meant for welfare of the society at large. TUFS is no exception. The country should be able to draw tangible benefits like improvement in foreign exchange earnings, increase in productivity, reduction in wastages, reduction in the requirement of utilities, stability in the income of cotton growers ( cotton prices fetched by them less input costs and other expenses) proportionate increase in direct employment of workers, uplift of rural economy etc. Dr. S.K.Panda, Secretary [Textiles] Government of India, while inaugurating the 61st National Garment Fair stated that certain changes were likely to be made in the TUFS scheme. However, he did not reveal the shape of things to come. Four ministries overseeing textile chain The textile value chain is too long, perhaps the largest in the manufacturing sector. The chain starts with the production of fibres, mainly cotton is in the administrative control of the Ministry of Agriculture, while natural fibres fall in the domain of the Ministry of Chemicals. Textile Machinery Manufacturing is administratively controlled by the Ministry of Heavy Industries and activities like spinning, weaving, processing and garmenting are the turf of the Ministry of Textiles. Being under the control of four ministries, the industry has become a pawn of the chessboard of philosophies of different ministries.

of the textile industry. It may be noted here that one shortcoming of the Indian economy is the underdevelopment of the rural sector. Nearly 56% of the population in the country derive its subsistence from agriculture. The average per capita income is Rs. Thirty thousand which is abysmally low. The recently published socio-economic and caste census 2011 is an eye opener in regard to pathetic condition of rural households. Merely half the rural households were under deprivation in 2011. A way-out is to take industries to the rural sector. The best industry for this purpose is the cotton textile industry. The Ministry of Agriculture should be responsible for making available infrastructure at cotton belts where cotton textile mills are going to spring up. It is also necessary to give special subsidy to allure investors to start mills in rural areas. Entrepreneurs committed to themselves to village uplift and are willing to identify themselves with the problems of local people and help them in all respects should be eligible for special subsidy. There are excellent examples although a few of how an industry set up in village can transform nearby sleepy villages having no perennial supply of water in area flushed with greenery with residents having regular jobs in a factory. Youth groups to school and colleges and women adding to family kitty through side occupation like handicrafts, animal husbandry, supply of milk etc. This will bring prosperity to rural areas. The responsibility of the Ministry of Chemicals will be to make available man-made fibres and filament yarns at international prices to the domestic industry. The Ministry of Heavy Industry should propose a subsidy scheme for the Textile Machinery Manufacturers which will encourage them to raise standards of machines to international levels. India is a thriving market for textile machinery particularly in weaving & processing segments, apart from south Asia, south east Asia, far east as African countries willing to lay foundation for the manufacture of textiles. Since the profitability of the textile industry is wafer-thin, it should be the agenda of the Ministry of Textiles to address the funding problem of the textile industry. A recent international development is the likely slowdown in china and crash in the chinese stock market. This development is likely to cause a turmoil of gigantic magnitude in the international market for textile and clothing and brighten the chances of india to capture major textile importing countries in a big way. All this points out to one conclusion tha is there should be proper revamping of TUFS which will improve the rural economy and capture major international markets. The role of the four ministries is thus cut-out. A harmonious approach would certainly benefit the national economy and large sections of the rural population. TABLE 1 PRODUCTION OF YARNs

(Qty. in Mil. KG)

Description

1998-99 2005-06 2014-15

Cotton Yarn

2022

2521

4057

Blended Yarn

595

588

1428

100% Non Cotton Yarn.

191

349

1428

Total

2808 3458 5485

If the development of the Textile industry is recognized as the prime driver for the growth of the national economy which is the case, a high-level co-ordinating committee of the four ministries should be formed for the stated purpose of overseeing the growth

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TABLE 2 Production Of cloth (Million. Sq. Meters) Description

1998-99 2005-06 2014-15

Mill sector.

1785

1561

2492

Handloom

6792

6203

7203

Powerlooms.

20689

30254

37566

Hosiery.

6277

10,297

16960

Total.

35,543

48314

64221

TABLE 3 Production of Ready Made Garments. Year

Production

1

2006

5343.

2

2007

5590

3

2008

6180

4

2009

6263

5

2010

6561

6

2011

6989

TABLE 4 Export of Textile Products from India.

(Value in US$ Million)

2001-2002

2014-2015

1

Woollen Yarn

19.03

79.47

2

3

Cotton Yarn

1130.69

3961.40

100% Non Cotton Yarn.

200.31

700.58

4

Woollen Fabrics

19.81

42.96

5

Cotton fabrics.

861.17

1860.72

6

Man-Made Woven Fabrics.

617.75

2112.20

7

Pile and knitted Fabrics.

28.83

256.84

8

Special Woven Fabrics

191.31

404.86

9

Cotton RMG

3678.06 8744.78

10

Man-Made RMG

784.05

4182.50

11

Wool

237.69

397.90

12 Others.

---

3363.57

893.16

3045.23

13

Cotton Made-ups.

14

Wool Made-ups

10.12

20.68

15

Man-Made Made-ups.

56.59

711.68

16

Others

----

Total

862.16

8728.77 30747.53

TABLE 5 Employment in the segments mentioned below [Figures in Millions]

Mr. Shiv Kanodia

By Bharat Merchant Chambers

(In Million meters)

Sr. No.

Sr. No. Products

On the eve of New Textile Policy of India, in the backdrop of present world economic scenario.

1998-99

2014-2015

Spun yarn

1.00

1.49

Power looms including Mill sector

4.86

6.00

Handlooms

6.50

7.55

Knitting

0.43

0.71

Processing

0.29

0.38

Woollen

1.50

2.25

RMG

5.57

8.85

Total

20.15 27.23

July 2015 www.textilevaluechain.com

The recent Greece referendum and its suspicious & suppressed effect on China and USA, has left several questions unanswered. The recent ‘1930’ remark of RBI Governor Raghuram Rajan, although modified later, has put economist to work, overtime. The outcome of Greece is uncertain and can have a cascading effect, if EU and other developing countries do not quickly devise a viable solution. The EU ought to have had checks and balances in place so as not to allow such edgy situation. In the backdrop of current International socio-economic situation, your present Central Government is, for the first time coming out with full fledged Textile Policy. The entire Textile value chain is very optimistic of pragmatic, practical and growth oriented textile policy, as our Prime Minister is from the Textile city of Ahmadabad, and has in-depth knowledge of the entire textile value chain. Germany strengthens and hard bargains for its engineering & automotive sector at all bi-lateral, multilateral and WTO negotiations. Similarly other countries bargains for their respective inherent advantageous industry. But over the past we have seen that interest of Indian Textile sector has always been compromised for known & unknown tradeoffs with other countries, resulting in suicides of hundreds of farmer, weavers and textile workers. The most recent compromise being the GSP Plus status for Pakistan by EU. (Report published in previous issue also attached herewith). This policy became applicable from 1/1/2015 and its effect is visible now with negative growth of Indian textile exports in last 3 to 4 months. Indian textile value chain is the most unorganised sector and hence does not a united, constructive & powerful lobby. Even a few associations which are active are more dominated in the interest of spinning sector. It is in the interest of Indian economy to have more and more value added exports rather than exports of raw materials. A strong cartel/lobby of raw cotton exporters’ has exploited lopsided Indian textile policy at the cost of cotton farmers and the downstream textile value chain. We frittered away the advantageous cotton production with short term speculative policies, for the benefit of handful few speculators. Linen fibre growing countries are classic example how these countries have safeguarded the interest of their farmers and maintained regular price increase despite the sluggish international commodity prices. It is pertinent to note that prices of all commodities viz crude, metal, grains, cotton & polyester fibres have declined, except prices of linen fibre. Bharat Merchants’ Chamber is a premier chamber of trade, commerce & Industry, primarily representing the Textile and allied sector, since 1960 from the heart of Asia’s biggest Textile market. We are one of the biggest textile associations with thousands of primary and associate members, fuelling livelihood of crores of people, directly & indirectly. It is pertinent to note that our association is non-governmental organisation, representing MSME’s and voices of the masses in Textile value chain, but the lopsided bureaucracy has distanced us without any representation to Textile Ministry, Textile Commissioner, Texprocil, MSME Ministry and other policy making think-tank of Central & State government. We once again impress upon all governmental functionaries to kindly take untainted and direct view of the masses and devise policies which fuel inclusive & sustainable growth and do not fritter away our advantageous position.

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COVER STORY Textile Machinery Industry A Big Opportunity for India Shri Avinash Mayekar

MD, Suvin Advisor Pvt. Ltd. Global Textile Machinery Industry Global Textile machinery market is witnessing tremendous growth buoyed by growing demand of textile & apparel market. It is forecasted to grow at a CAGR of 14.02%till 2018. It isexpected to reach to US $ 207.5 billion in 2015. The major manufacturers of textile machinery are Italy, Germany, Switzerland, France and now China. China is leading in the field of textile exports today because they installed a large set-up of spindles, open end rotors and shuttleless weaving machines. China is manufacturing the entire range of machineries for the textile industry, not only spinning, weaving and processing but also knitting, embroidery and plants for the non-woven industry. One of the major trends in the Global Textile Machinery market is the growing number of technological innovations. The global market divided into two parts i.e. Low cost manufacturing places like developing countries (Labor concentrated market) where cheap labor is available & high cost manufacturing places like developed countries where labor is expensive & more automation is needed to reduce operation cost. Indian Textile Machinery Industry

This industry is nearly sixty years old and has about 1000 machinery and component manufacturing units. Nearly 300 units produce complete machinery and the remaining produces various textile machinery components.However, not all the units work to full capacity or even the optimum capacity level. Except for the units in the spinning sector where the machineries are of international standards; in the other sectors, machinery manufacturing for weaving, knitting and wet-processing lack standard of quality and performance (in most of the cases) to compete with the European manufacturers. Indian Machinery Production FY 2012-13 ( InCrores) Production Export

Production

Total

less

Domestic met by in-house

% Demand

Export

Demand Production

2009-10 4245

582

3663

7383

50%

2010-11 6150

915

5235

9312

56%

2011-12 5280

800

4480

11188

40%

2012-13 5650

1462

4188

11898

35% Source: TMMA

In the weaving sector, shuttleless weaving machinery (rapier

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Around 87 per cent of the total production, i.e., textile machinery is coming from the six clusters namely Ahmedabad, Bangalore, Coimbatore, Ludhiana, Mumbai and Surat. These clusters are strategically located to serve the textile industry and have the affiliation to produce the kind of machinery required by the industry. Ahmedabad is a cluster of weaving. Currently most of textile machinery produced consumed inhouse, so there is very less scope for the export.

The industry witnessed a growth of 8-10 per cent to Rs 22,000 crore in 2014 from Rs 20,000 crore in 2013.The size of India's textile machinery industry is poised to double to Rs 45,000 crore in the next 7 years from the present Rs 22,000 crore on the back of new projects and emphasis on setting up textile parks. The textile machinery manufacturing section is one of the largest segments of the machinery manufacturing industry in India. Domestic demand has increased with CAGR of 17% between FY 2009-2013. Our in-house production is insufficient to meet domestic demand.

Year

or jet) and in the knitting sector (circular knitting and flat knitting) machineries hardly have any presence in the industry.The machinery manufacturing operation takes place both in the organised and the unorganised sectors. In the organised sector, in addition to the public limited companies, machinery manufacturing is done in independent units, which have collaborative joint ventures with the foreign entities. In the decentralized sector, there are small-scale industrial units as well as tiny units engaged in the production of accessories pertaining to the textile machinery.Majority of the production comes from the States of Tamil Nadu and Gujarat; collectively contributing around 84 per cent of the production.

Year

Production Export

% Export of

total production

2009-10

4245

582

14%

2010-11

6150

915

15%

2011-12

5280

800

15%

2012-13

5650

1462

26%

Problems faced by Indian Textile Industry The major problem in the textile machinery manufacturing industry is the lack of investment in Research and Development, except for the manufacturing units who have technical collaboration with reputed foreign companies; no progress has been made in the quality of the machinery produced. This dependence on borrowed technology and want of research has kept most of the sectors except spinning machinery sector far behind in the standard and performance of the machinery produced. This has resulted in the import of second hand machinery especially in the area of weaving thus discouraging the advancement of technology in the manufacturing of similar machinery in India. Lack of systematic fiscal support to the industry by the Government has also added to the problems. Growth Drivers in India for Machinery Market Purchase of new machinery is the key growth driver of the market. One of the major growth drivers for global machinery market is the strong economic recovery; post-recession, increasing demand for textile products, and environmentally friendly fibers, and a growing demand for the developing nations. Today machinery manufacturers produce textile machineries at competitive prices, and sophisticated machines of higher speed, and production capac-

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July 2015


Source: Office of Textile Commissioners ity. Presence of numerous small scale players also makes the machinery sector more competitive. Along with them, MNCs have also entered the global arena, taking the competition to the next level, driving companies to work on their productivity and innovation.

facture high standard Textile Machinery which is required for our own consumption first so that we can reduce imports and may think of exporting appropriate technology to other developing countries.

The global demand of textile machinery is rising due to growing demand of textile industry. Today, Textile machinery sourcing is majorly done from European countries, which is relatively costly. India is strategically located from most of major textile & apparel producing countries and India has good potential to explore global opportunities & tap global market. India has to first focus on exports to the neighboring countries which are emerging as significant textile producers.

The Indian Government has already declared “Make in India” drive to boost manufacturing sector. It should also support the R&D activities& allocate special funds for development of R&D centers of each of the Indian manufacturer. Our education pattern should develop research and innovation based concepts for Textile Engineering students so that the real growth happens within our country.

Summary Indian Textile Machinery Industry has tremendous growth potential in coming future buoyed by growing domestic & global demand; the only need is to identify the untapped opportunities. We need to focus more on Research & Development (R&D) to manu-

Low material costs and operating costs along with our own huge market will give India an edge over other countries. Let’s come together & create India as NEXT TEXTILE MACHINERY HUB .

Production of Textile Machinery in 2009-10 Vs2012-13

CATEGORY

2008-09

2009-10 2010-11 2011-12 2012-13

Spinning & Allied Machinery

2417.44

2105

3500

2570

2310

Systematic filament yarn machinery

412.79

830

900

925

965

Weaving & allied Machinery

410.35

495

600

480

445

Processing machinery

419.29

460

700

750

960

Misc. Spinning, weaving, processing machinery

122

120

150

100

120

Textile testing/ controlling/measuring instruments

80.43

30

50

65

80

Hosiery machinery ( including machine & needle)

33.31

35

50

20

45

TOTAL

3895.61 4075 5950 4910 4925

Spares & Accessories

167.39

170

200

370

725

TOTAL

4063.00

4245

6150

5260

5650

A.T.E. ties up withColor Service, Italy – a global leader in the design and manufacturing of dispensing systems for dyes and chemicals. A.T.E..has tied-up with Color Service Srl, Italy, a global leader in dispensing systems for dyes and chemicals. A.T.E. will exclusively handle the marketing, sales and service of Color Service’s products and solutions in India and Bangladesh. Color Service was founded by Mr FabrizioToschiin 1987.Its portfolio includes fully automatic systems for dyes, liquid chemicals, powder chemicals, print paste dispensing systems and print paste thickener preparation systems along with automated lab dyeing systems and complete laboratory solutions for bulk reproducibility in dyeing printing textile houses. Apart from textiles, it also provides solutions for the food,rubber,cosmetics &tannery industries. Color Service is already a well-established player in India, with an impressive reference list includingVardhman, Abishek,Alok,Welspun,

July 2015 www.textilevaluechain.com

BRFL, Bombay Dyeing, Arvind,Trident,Himatsingka,Sharadha Terry –toname only a few. The most critical factor influencing dye houseproductivity is to get dyeing “right the first time and every time”. With its domain expertise in dyes and chemicals for 28 years, Color Service provides exclusive and tailor made solutions (both semi and fully automatic systems) for perfect dyeing. These solutions improve the production cycle time,avoid wastages of dyes &chemicals,reduce labor,provide safe working environment, and most importantly they help to achieve consistency in processing. A.T.E. is known in the Indian textile industry as a solution provider for all machinery and accessory needs – from spinning to garmenting. With this latest tie-up of A.T.E., customers have an added advantage of dealing with just a single source for all their textile processing machinery and automation requirements.

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GOVERNMENT NEWS

Foundation stone laid for Apparel & Garment Making Centre in Mizoram The foundation stone for Apparel and Garment Making Centre in Mizoram was laid by Shri Santosh Kumar Gangwar, Hon’ble Minister of State for Textiles (I/C), Government of India on the 3rd of July 2015 in Aizawl, the capital of Mizoram. Addressing the gathering, Union Textiles Minister Shri Santosh Kumar Gangwar said that the Hon’ble Prime Minister Shri Narendra Modi has given special attention to the Ministry of Textiles with special focus on the North Eastern Region. The Apparel and Garment Making Centres are being opened in every state of the North Eastern region as part of the landmark initiative announced by the Prime Minister on 1st December 2014. The Minister said that the centre will be the beginning of setting up an organized industry in Mizoram. He also said that this is in line with the Prime Minister’s vision of “Sabke Saath Sab ka Vikas”. Before Mizoram, Apparel and Garment Manufacturing Centres have been set up in all other seven states of the North Eastern Region. This initiative comes under the North East Region Textile Promotion Scheme (NERTPS) of the Ministry of Textiles. NERTPS is an umbrella scheme for the development of various segments of textiles, i.e. silk, handlooms, handicrafts and garments. Of the total outlay of Rs 1038.10 crore, Rs 18.9 crore has been given to Mizoram for setting up of this centre where the State government provides 1.5 acre of land free of cost. The centre will be managed by the Ministry of Textiles for 5 years and will be handed over to the state government thereafter. Secretary, Ministry of Textiles, Dr. S. K. Panda said that the garment making centre will provide employment to the youths of Mizoram. It will also lead a way for developing technical textile and skilled personnel which will in turn contribute to the economy of Mizoram. Upon his arrival in Mizoram on the 3rd of July 2015, the Hon’ble Minister inaugurated the Weavers’ Service Centre, which

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will benefit many handloom weavers in the state. Weavers’ Service Centre established under the funds of the Ministry of Textiles, Government of Mizoram aims to provide technical assistance, advice, designs and marketing opportunity to all weavers and concerns in the handloom sector. Revamped website of Handloom Export Promotion Council launched Shri Alok Kumar IAS, Development Commissioner for Handlooms, O/o Development Commissioner for Handlooms,Ministry of Textiles, Government of India launched the revamped website of Handloom Export Promotion Council, www.hepcindia.com, on 3rd June, 2015, at Udyog Bhawan, New Delhi. The website has been redesigned with special focus on promoting Brand India Handloom products to buyers across the world. From design to content, the entire website has been revamped to make it more user-friendly, and interactive with rich features. This would enable buyers across the world to better understand and appreciate the unique value proposition of Indian handloom products. The website seeks to address the gap between handloom exporters and buyers comprehensively. In the long run, these measures will facilitate enhancement of export of handloom products. The website will facilitate prompt delivery of the Council’s services to its member exporters. As on date, about 1,500 exporters of handloom products are members of the Council. Export of handloom products during 2013-14 was Rs. 2,233 crore (US$ 372 million). The revamp of website has been done in consultation with India Brand Equity Foundation under the Department of Commerce, Ministry of Commerce and Industry, Government of India; in order to make the website more dynamic and responsive. A Brief on HEPC HEPC under the Ministry of Textiles, Government of India was set up in 1965

to promote export of handloom products. The main objective of HEPC is to support, protect, maintain, increase and promote export of Indian handloom fabrics. Apparel and Garment Making Centre to come up in Tripura An Apparel and Garment Making Centre is all set to come up at Agartala; the foundation stone for the same was laid by Shri Santosh Kumar Gangwar, Hon’ble Minister of State for Textiles (I/C), Government of India and the Chief Minister of Tripura, Shri Manik Sarkar, on 20th May, 2015. A Silk Processing and Printing Unit was also inaugurated on the occasion, by the Union Textiles Minister and the Tripura CM. The project cost is Rs. 3.41 crore. These units are expected to provide employment to a large number of people in Tripura and would lead the large scale production and processing of garments in the region. The project contributes to the “Make In India” programme in textile sector, with particular emphasis to the North Eastern States.

FEEDBACK Letter received from Ministry of Textiles, Udyoug Bhavan, New Delhi. “ Secretary, textiles, has seen the May 15 issue of “ TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN” magazine sent & has requested for sending a full report on the experience of social welfare work done by the Welspun foundation for health and knowledge under its CSR (Corporate Social Responsibility) initiative as given in the issue on page 11 of May issue”

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July 2015


ASSOCIATION NEWS

SIMA urges sale of CCI cotton in smaller lots - appeals Hon’ble Textile Minister The spinning sector particularly spinning mills in South India especially the mills in Tamil Nadu (accounts for 46% of the spinning capacity) are currently facing crisis due to continuous fall in yarn exports during the last 13 months, glut in the domestic market due to over supply, announcement of attractive industrial polices by various States enabling them to have cost advantage to the tune of Rs.20/- per kg of yarn when compared to mills in Tamil Nadu and also undue delay in disbursing the TUF subsidies. Several hundreds of mills have been denied TUF subsidy which are under blackout period cases, left out cases and committed liability issue cases, etc. Almost Rs.70,000 crores of investments are under severe stress. Therefore, all the textile mills, particularly spinning mills maintain only one week to four weeks cotton stock as against the normal practice of three to six months stock due to financial crisis. In this scenario, the e-auction cotton policy of CCI is affecting the small and medium spinning mills very seriously. In a press release issued here today, Mr.T.Rajkumar, Chairman, The Southern India Mills’ Association (SIMA) appreciated the efforts taken by the Hon’ble State Textile Minister and Ministry of Textiles in protecting the interests of cotton farmers by way of MSP operations through Cotton Corporation of India (CCI), as the international and domestic prices ruled below the minimum support price. The major MSP operations were carried out by CCI in the States of Telangana, Andhra Pradesh and Maharashtra. This season, CCI has covered all the good quality cotton grown in Telangana, Andhra Pradesh and Maharashtra and today several hundreds of mills badly need this cotton to meet their customer requirements. Under this scenario, SIMA Chairman has stated that complaints are pouring to the Association from spinning mills particularly small and medium size stating that they are finding extremely difficult to procure cotton from CCI as very limited number of lots

of each category in each cotton centre is offered on a daily basis. He has stated that during the period 24th June, 2015 to 1st July 2015, 10.21 lakh bales were offered by CCI out of which only around 20,000 bales of 62 smaller lots ( lot size 500 and below) were offered amounting to less than 2% of the total quantity offered. He pointed out that in many varieties and centres only bulk volumes have been offered preventing the small and medium mills from participating in the e-auction. Mr.Rajkumar has mentioned that out of 3,100 spinning mills in the country, 1,325 spinning mills are under SSI category and even in the non-SSI category, the average number of spindles per mill is only 25,000. A 25,000 spindle mill would normally need less than 75 bales per day. Therefore, it is essential for CCI to offer more number of lots in smaller size, give priority for the SMEs, who are starving for funds and badly need cotton. He has further stated that there are reports that mills had to pay higher premium (upto Rs.1000 per candy) to the traders to purchase CCI cotton in smaller lots. It may also be noted that as only limited number of lots are offered, even in the CCI e-auction procurement, the SMEs compete with each other and pay more. The price is higher upto Rs.500 per candy for smaller lots when compared to the bigger lots. Therefore, SIMA chief has stated that the Association has sent a representation on 6.7.2015 appealing to the Hon’ble State Textile Minister, Mr.Santhosh Kumar Gangwar to look into the e-auction policy of CCI and instruct them to offer at least 50,000 bales (keep the lot size flexible and multiples of 100 bales) in each centre and in each variety of cotton, give priority to the SMEs and ensure the least difference in the cost of cotton procured by SMEs and the larger players. SIMA Chairman further has requested the Hon’ble Minister to instruct CCI to keep adequate stocks till the beginning of the new season to maintain price stability and also enable the SMEs to get continuous supply of cotton as they do not have access for imported cotton.

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Mr.Rajkumar has pointed out that during the cotton season 2008-09, a similar situation occurred and CCI fully sold out its MSP cotton to the traders who increased the price by over Rs.3,000 per candy even after getting substantial bulk discount and free credit period up to six months. He has requested the government to ensure that such a situation is not repeated again and protect the interests of small and medium spinning mills and thereby the livelihoods of several lakhs of employees working in the spinning mills. POLITICAL NEUTRALITY, - Bharat Merchant Chambers Political compulsions is injurious for country’s health. Politically affiliated people on executive body of organisations like trade commerce & industry bodies, students union, sports bodies, labour unions, NGO’s, semi govt bodies have neglected the cause of trade commerce & industry, students, sports, labour, NGO’S etc. These executives, (viz President, Secretary etc.) have always nurtured their own interest and the interest of their political party, while seriously compromising the cause of his members and the non-political body, which he is representing. As a Hon. Gen. Secretary of a trade and industrial body, I propose to the Hon’ble Prime Minister to make it mandatory for the managing committee of such bodies to be apolitical and each member to relinquish the membership of any political party, in case he is holding, before assuming office. Ever imagined wonders a labour union leader can do without any political affiliation, for his fellow labourers. Imagine the depth of our trade if the leaders of its trade association is apolitical and only interested in competing with countries like China. Who will be able to stop India from becoming a Super Power. The above idea will require lot of brainstorming and may not be easily implementable, across the board. But an earnest beginning with future roadmap of POLITICAL NEUTRALITY will strengthen our country and lead us to unprecedented era.

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TECHNICAL ARTICAL WEARABLE COMPUTERS

Yogita Agarwal, S Barhanpurkar, R Kapoor, Harshit Porwal ShriVaishnav Institute of Technology And Science, Indore

Abstract Wearable computers can now merge seamlessly into ordinary clothing. Using various conductive textiles,data and power distribution as well assensing circuitry can be incorporated directly into wash-and-wear clothing. This paper describes some of the techniques used to build circuits from commercially available fabrics,yarns, fasteners,andcomponents. This paper describes wearable computing technology which is an active topic of research. “Wearable computing” in this paper covers the areas of study including the vision of the wearable computing, its background ,materials used in this technology, issues related to the wearable computing and their solutions, applications of wearable computers, their advantages and disadvantages, the future of wearable computers including some examples of wearable computers and the point of discussion in this field. This paper aims to provide an overview of projects combining smart textiles and clothing as a basis for further discussions on how smart textiles could be introduced in fashion. The overview covers different projects, research as well as commercial projects, within smart textiles and clothing Keywords:- augmented reality , behavioural modelling Introduction Textiles of today are materials with applications in almost all our activities, we wear clothes all the timeand we are surrounded with textiles in almost all our environments. The integration of multifunctionalvalues in such a common material has become a special area of interest in recent years. Fibres yarns,fabric and other structures with added value functionality have been developed for a range of applications. Textile materials and techniques have become an importantplatform for hightech innovations. Imagine if your shirt could track your heart rate as you run, or if it could charge your cellphone on the go. Innovative fashion designers and engineers, who are pushing the envelope with “smart textiles,” dream of designing garments that are not just embedded with devices, but actually are the devices. Welcome to the world of wearable computing. Wearable computers can now mergeseamlesslyintoordinary clothing. Using various conductive textiles,data and power distribution as well as sensing circuitry can be incorporated directly into wash-and-wear clothing. The development of smart textiles is a true fusion of fashion and technology. From manipulating nanoparticles in cotton, to incorporating knit antennas and transistors into garments, the computational fashion industry is reimagining how we use clothing in our everyday lives. Wearable computing is the study or practice of inventing, designing, building, or using miniature body-borne computational and sensory devices. Wearable computers may be worn under, over, or in clothing, or may also be themselves clothes (i.e. “Smart

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Clothing”) The field of wearable computing, however, extends beyond “Smart Clothing”. The term “Body-Borne Computing” or “Bearable Computing” is often used as a substitute for “Wearable Computing” so as to include all manner of technology that is on or in the body, e.g. implantable devices as well as portable devices like smartphones. In fact the word “portable” comes from the French word “porter” which means “to wear”. Vision Wearable Computers represents the next generation of textiles anticipated for use in several fashion, furnishingand technical textile applications. The vision of Wearable Computers is to create textile products that interact bycombiningsmart materials and integrated computing power into textile applications. The introduction ofsmart materials and computing technology in textile structures offers an opportunity to develop textileswith a new type of behaviour and functionality. Besides behaviour like sense, react on and conductingelectricity, the textile will be able to perform computational operations . Smart Textile andcomputing technology are introducing a shift in textile, from a passive to a dynamic behaviour, fromtextileswith static functionalities to products that exhibit dynamic functionalities Background Wearable Computers(Smart textiles) arebased on research,which has its foundation in different research disciplines; textiledesign and technology, chemistry, physics, material science and computer science and technology.Significant for this research is the interdisciplinary approach and the interaction between basicresearchand design activities. Wearable Computers arepossible thanks to the three following developments. l The first is the introduction of new type of textile fibres and structures for example conductive materials. l The second is the miniaturization of electronics,which makes it possible to integrate electronics into textile structures and products. l The third is different kind of wireless technologies enabling the technology to be wearable and at the same time communicating with other devices such as computers or mobile phones. Wearable Computers were introduced in early 1990s, strongly influenced by military research and wearable technology in general. One of the pioneering projects was the “Wearable Motherboard” ,which isa garment with integrated sensors and communication capabilities. The garment aimstorescue soldiers by monitoring their health status in real time. Another pioneering researcher is Maggie Orth from MIT who explored the different sensing and actuatingcapabilities of textilestructures. Orth created a set ofworking prototypeswhere conductive structures,colour changing materials and electronics were combined into soft interfaces.

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In 2000 Phililps presentedtheir exploration of wearable technology and smart textiles through the project “NewNomads”, which is a visionary show collectionrather than working prototypes. Theproject was carried out in a design studio by an interdisciplinary team and presented by a set of visionary concepts.The basic concept of Wearable Computers consists of a textile structure that senses and reacts to differentstimuli from its environment. In its simplest form the textile sense and reacts automaticallywithout a controlling unit, and in a more complex form, smart textiles sense, react and activate a specificfunction througha processing unit. The main parts included in a Wearable Computer system arethe sensor, theactuator and the controlling unit. Functioning This technology involves the use of conductive yarns and fibers for power delivery, communication, and networking, as well as new materials for display that use electronic ink, nitinol, and thermochromic pigments. The textiles are created using traditional textile manufacturing techniques: spinning conductive yarns, weaving, knitting, embroidering, sewing, and printing with inks. Related Issues and their Solutions The vision behind wearable computing is to provide access to information anytime and anyplace. But a person wearing a computer should still be able to do what they normally do without the computer slowing them down, making them look funny, or annoying them all the time. It is ironic that although they are powerful, these wearable computers are not very wearable. Their various components are made of hard plastic, metal, and silicon. They are heavy and angular. Their weight is uncomfortable for extended use and the advantages of wearing such devices are not clear to a majority of people. The transition of the computing device from the desktop to the body is a physical leap that also requires a conceptual leap. Materials need to change, functionality needs to evolve past the point where wires hang along the user’s body, and the computer housing (the clothing) needs to be more attractive. Most importantly, the wearable computer needs to be less fragile. Users who wear such a thing should be able to do so without the fear of hurting their wearable. They should be able to run, jump, dance, and push their way into a crowded subway. They need to wear the computereasily and effortlessly, without the fear of dropping or breaking the components. Furthermore, it should not be awkward, or dangerous, to get caught in the rain. In order to become wearable in the same way that a sweater or a pair of pants are wearable, wearable computing needs to integrate and assimilate ideas and methods from another wearable technology, one that is thousands of years old and much more appropriate for housing the body. In order for the wearable computer to be more wearable, it needs to be knit onto the body and conductive yarns need to replace wires. Textiles, whether knit or woven, are tougher, more flexible, more durable, and much more wearable than a printed circuit board . Textiles have mechanical, aesthetic, and material advantages that make them ubiquitous in both society and industry. The woven structure of textiles and spun fibers makes them durable, washable, and conformal, while their composite nature affords tremendous variety in their texture for both visual and tactile senses . Electronic textile research aims to combine wearable computing with textiles and move towards the vision of a seamless integration of computation on the body. There have been many technological innovations in the field of electronic textiles in the past twenty years, These innovations are starting to trickle down into consumer

APPLICATIONS OF WEARABLE COMPUTERS Wearable computers can be used in many applications. Inwearable computer user’s skin, hands, voice, eyes, arms aswell as motion or attention are actively engaged as thephysical environment. Various application areas of wearablecomputers are asfollows: (1) Augmented Reality (2) Behavioral Modeling (3) Health Care Monitoring Systems (4) Service Management (5) Smart phones (6) Electronic Textiles (7) MusicPlayer through Eyeglasses (8) Fashion Designing (9) Military Services Health monitoring for medical assistance Health monitoring is a general concerns for patient requiring continuous medical assistance andtreatment. In order to increase mobility for such patients a huge effort has been pursued for thedevelopment of wearable systems for the monitoring of physiological parameters such as respiration,cardiac activity or temperature of the body. Smart textiles play a growing role in these developmentssince they are well suited for wearability and washability that ensures the comfort for the user. Health monitoring integrated in work wear Continuous monitoring of physiological parameters is not only a target for medicalapplications;it couldalso be used by different professionals to protect from dangerous situations and injuries.The projectsdirected towards professional make use of earlier developed technologies such as conductive sensors forthe measurement of heart and breathing rate and implements these possibilities into a context,forexample the firefighter situations. Several of these projectscombines the research onsmart textiles andresearch in more traditional areas, for example new type of protective coatings ADVANTAGES OF WEARABLE COMPUTING l It helps in enhancingcommunication. l Wearable Computers can be used to recognize a person in a high alerted area such as an airport. l A personal Wearable will facilitate the wearer’s needs. l Unlikely to be dropped or lost as there are embedded to the clothesas opposed to the handheld devices. l Able to usewearablecomputers to complete daily tasks such as a computer which tracks the movementsand habits of a person. l FlexibleGivesFreedom l Work fromanywhere l Convenience l Makes tasks morecomfortablesuch as Wearable Computers can be used by Surgeons (a WearableComputer attached to their arms),which can allow data to be transferred to their computers, this cansavetime where the surgeons can look at the wearable for information, this will help improve the efficiency ofan operation. l Time saving DISADVANTAGES OF WEARABLE COMPUTING l Heavy equipment l Higher cost l Wiring problem l User can be irritated in heat.

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l Side-Effects such as Headaches,body ache l Wearable Computers can invade privacy l Can be used to gain an unfair advantage over others such as Casinos l Easilytracked wherever you go l It may become easier to get data on an individual if the item is lost/stolen l Not seriously taken by some people. FUTURE OF WEARABLE COMPUTERS In future Wearable computers will have a very much bigmarket because now a day’s people want much smallcomponents in computing devices. In future many wearablecomputers are used to cure so many medicaldiseases. Inmilitary also wearable computers are useful to search hiddenthings from enemies. In entertainment world wearable computers will give us improvement in music players,Computer Games etc.There may be wearable gloves or shoeswhich will handle gameobjects. In future wearable computers can be used in following forms: (1) Smart Fabric work as Wearable Computers (2) Garments need not to be washed (3) Shapes and colors of clothes can be changed as per ourwishes (4) People can create clothes that can sense and react to environmental conditions. (5) Fitness trackers, like the Amiigo, are available withsensors which helps us take control of our health. (6) It will show the results on ourhand held devices and with that we can respond to the health system wheneverneeded. (7) For example a wearable computer likeThe Zeoheadband,will help us know how well we have taken oursleep. (8) Light up the neck tie. (9) With the help of neck tie, a music player can also be connected which shows LED lights to be up – down according to music. (10) GPS unit can be attached with clothes to find way when you are new in the city. (11) Even whengoogle glass was not in the market, there wereno. of applications that are already developed for it. It shows the future of Wearable computers Some examples of wearable computers 1. HUG SIMULATION JACKET LETS PARENTS CALM KIDS VIA MOBILE DEVICES T Jacket is a tablet-controlled jacket that uses embedded airpockets to simulate hugs and calm children without human contact. The jacket is based on ‘deep pressure theory’, whichsuggests that pressure has a soothing effect on children withautism or attention deficit disorders who don’t process sensoryinformation in the same way as those without the condition. Pockets of air are lined around the waist and shoulders of thejacket and – when instructed to do so via an app – inflate toproduce the effect of a hug. For autistic children, the jacketprovides the sensations involved with a hug without thepotentially distressing human interaction. Although initially developed with autistic children in mind, the TJacket may havea wider application for parents with jobs that require them tospend time away from home 2. GAZE-ACTIVATED DRESSES COME TO LIFE WHEN PEOPLE STARE AT THEM Fashion designer Ying Gao has concepted two dresses that use eyetrackingtechnology to light up when someone stares at them. Thedresses, named No(where) and Now(here) are made

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of photoluminescentthread and use embedded eye tracking technology to become activatedby a spectator’s gaze. The concept technology causes the dress tolight up in novel, impromptu ways by activating in accordance with thepeople looking at it. 3. WORKOUT GEAR VISUALIZES ACTIVITY LEVELS OF WEARER IN REAL-TIME Radiate Athletics has developed interactive compression wear thatvisually informs wearers of the intensity of their athletic performanceby changing colors in accordance with their body’s thermal-output. Tochange colors in real-time, special atoms within the fabric gain a carbonelectron when valence electrons are accelerated through the applicationof heat, affecting the way that the atoms reflect light-waves. The colorof the garment changes to correspond with the muscle groups beingtargeted by specific exercise, giving wearers a visual reference for theirworkouts. 4. CLOTHING MONITORS BODY AND RESPONDS WITH AN EXTERNAL DISPLAY The Ger Mood Sweater by Sensoree interprets emotions anddisplays the wearer’s mood instantly as an interactive lightdisplay. Sensors in the dress detect bodily rhythms along withexcitement levels and translate that data into a palette of colors.For instance, the sweater will turn blue if the wearer is feelingcalm, or pink if they are excited. The bowl shaped, high collaris embedded with LEDs that reflect onto the wearer for instantbio-feedback, acting as a visual display for onlookers. 5. SENSOR EMBEDDED SOCKS HELP PREVENT INJURIES BEFORE THEY HAPPEN Sensoria has developed a pair of sensor-embedded socks thatnot only tracks traditional fitness data such as the number ofsteps, speed and total distance a user has traveled, but alsoprovides data about running form and technique. The sockskeep tabs on a person’s weight distribution and the form oftheir feet while standing, walking and running. Using this data,it’s possible to identify poor running styles and prevent injuriesbefore they happen. An accompanying app delivers simpleadvice about how to unlearn poor running tendencies. It canalso benchmark and analyze performance to give sock wearersa clearer picture of how their performance improves in tandemwith their technique. Discussion Smart textilerepresents the next generation of textiles affiliated in both research and commercialactivities. The aim with thisreportis to givean overview of different research and commercial activitiesfor further discussions on how smart textiles could beintroduced in fashion. As this report tells,therehas already been an introduction of smart textiles infashion, however the efforts of introducing smarttextiles in other clothing areas are still dominatingthe research activities.The difference in theclothingarea between health care and work wear application and fashion is thetype of application. In health careand work wear the applications are focused on monitoring the wearer’s health or to facilitatecommunication. In fashion the applications aremore focused on visual or tactile feedback from thewearer. Most of the market analyses and roadmaps on smart textilespoints outpotentialof other areasthan fashion and the funding of research projects also proofs that there is a focus on technical aspects ofclothingrather than fashion.The main issues to further discuss in order to proceed in the area of smarttextiles and fashion are; the gap between research and commercial activities, the technological barriersand theneed for new applications.Despite the lack of measurable data such as economical turnovers in the companies involved. Authors of different market overviews both ignore and reject the actualcommercial efforts in fashion as too small andalsodismiss the applications as “just LEDs integrated inclothing”.Whether they are too small or their business is directed

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towards some kind of uselessapplications these companies are veritable. They are producing, selling and marketing their business. These companies are not H&M or Zara and it does not seem to be their goal, but still it is a runningbusiness. Some of them are also successful in individual solutions such as artist and event clothing,which also points out that the end product of smart textiles does notnecessarily have to deal withmassconsumption. The failure in the commercialisation of smart textiles could maybe be caused by wrongexpectations of smart textiles as part of the mass production industry rather than smaller andmorespecialised companies.Another explanation for the delayed introduction of smart textiles in commercial activities isthetechnological barriers. What isalsoquite obvious in this overview as well as other reports is that thetechnology isverywell developed. There are soft and flexible electronics and new productiontechnologies that should reduce the technical and production barriers.Another stated barrier is the power consumption, whichis actuallysomething we deal with everydayusing our mobile phone so thatis a barrier thathas alreadybeenovercome. If there is a true need anda27strong consumer interestthe technology andproduction costsarenot an issue. It is also obvious that industrial and scientific experts foreseethat smart textile and clothing applications are more functional oriented while a majority of those who actually take a risk and starts a company are more into fashion and applications like LED attached in clothing.Two design students initiated the investigationin order to find out whypeopledo notuse a bicycle helmet though it could savetheir life. The answers from the usersexposed the fact thatmany people feel ugly and uncomfortable withthe helmet,which gave the idea of an invisible helmet.This invisible helmet is an example of how advanced wearable technology including sensor and airbagtechnologies and textiletransformsour view of wearing a helmet.Compared toother applicationswherethe technology is moretransferredinto textile, for example jackets integrated with mp3 player orconventional electrodes integrated in shirts. In these cases there might be too hard to compete withexisting solutions since it is the wearable technology itself rather than the integration into textile thatmakes sensefor the user. In order to really merge smart textiles and fashion it is necessary to includeinvestigations from different areas toidentify a use instead of speculating about use.Researchers from social science and anthropologistscould support with the analyses of societal issues. These analyses could be further developed intoconcepts using artistic and design processes where artists, designers, scientists and engineerscollaborates in the synthesis of ideas.In order to successfully introduce smart textiles in fashion there isa need for a multitude of methodologies enabling the transformationoftechnology into a meaningfulform of use CONCLUSION In this research paper we describe a very new and interesting topic of Wearable computer and wearablecomputing and also its existence in real world, Provides easiness to be communicating with not to self but otherusers too. Easy to wear so that’s why anyhow anywhere you can easily access the system without anyone’spermission. Due to few of the disadvantages sometimes it’s better to go for much better techniques for example laptop, desktop etc. In upcoming future it may be possible that wearable computer will replace the conventionalcomputers just because they are light and easy to transport, they’re generally useless unless held stationary.Wearable computers, PCs designed to be carried around as they’re being used, might eventually causeus, or ourchildren, to view as unbearably primitive those computers that now demand our seated attention. Finally we cansay that the future of wearable computers is very bright and shining. In this paper we have tried to give some idea about the past,present and future of Wearable computers. We are dam

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surethat if in any area wearable computer technology isappliedthen it will definitely improve the quality of life and makedaytoday life easier. It is only our imagination which willlimit the number of applications for this new emergingtechnology. Wearable computer is a platform for the rapidapplication development. On the other hand, as we know thatthere are two sides of a coin, here as the benefits are there ofwearable computers we do have to take care about varioushazards discussed in the paper. We have shown the combination of conventionalsewing and electronics techniques with a novel classof materials to create interactive digital devices. Allof the input devices can be made by seamstresses orclothing factories, entirely from fabric. These textile based sensors, buttons, and switches are easy to scalein size. They also can conform to any desired shape,which is a great advantage over most existing, delicate touch sensors that must remain flat to work atall. Subsystems can be connected together using ordinary textile snaps and fasteners. q

The Dark spots of Indian Villages. 1) Out of 24.39 crore households in the country, 17.91 crore are in rural areas. 2) 30.10% of the rural households depend on cultivation. 3) 51.14% of rural households get their income from manual/ casual labour. 4) 23.5% of the families have no literate adult member above the age of 25 years.. 5) 86.90 Million households are suffered deprivation. 6) 1.65 Million households belonging to manual scavenging/tribal/bonded labour category, did not have shelter, were living on Alms. 7) 74.49 % households’ monthly income is less than Rs.5000/ 8) 56% of the households do not own land. 9) 23.70 Million households live in houses with kuccha walls & roof. 10) 65.15 lakh households do not have adult member in the age group of 18-59. 11) 29.70 % of the land is not irrigated. 12) 7.16 lakh households are with differently- abled members with no other able- bodied adult member. 13) 4.08 lakh households rely on rag-picking. 14) 18.46% households belong to Scheduled Caste, 10.97% scheduled tribes while 68.5% belong to other categories. 15) 2.04% in the above category has no caste & tribe.

BRIGHT SPOTS- SILVERLINING. 16) 68.25% of rural households in India own a mobile phone. 17) 17.43% of the house holds own two wheelers. 18) 11.04% house holds have refrigerators. 19) 4.56% pay income tax. 20) 25.63% of the land is irrigated.

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DEFENSE TEXTILES

DEFENSE TEXTILE & CAMOUFLAGE FABRICS

Shri Arvind Sinha

National President , TAI

As per the recent study it is observed that Defense Forces worldwide are spending more than 1600 billion USD every year for their procurement programmes, maintenance and various other requirements. This is a very huge sum which makes Defense Forces worldwide prime buyers of wide range of products.

l

Communication lines (optical fiberglass)

l

Extreme weather protective fabrics

l

Interfacing and lining in apparel and shoes

l

Parachutes and parachute harnesses

Textile for Defense Forces is a very small part of overall budget of above mentioned figures of 1600 billion USD. Estimates are textile for defense forces may have approx. 2% to 3% share of above mentioned figures which makes it more than 30 billion USD. It is very difficult to ascertain exact figures as information is not freely available and various defense forces are very secretive about parting their figures. Similarly manufactures are also not providing exact figures because of their non-disclosure agreements.

l

Personal flotation devices

l

Pontoon bridges

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Ropes and cables

l

Ship composites

l

Stealth fighter plane graphite fibers

l

Wet suites

l

Densely woven cotton webbings and tapes

Defense Forces requires very vast varieties of fabrics for various applications widely purchased by Air Force, Army, Navy, Coastal Guards, and Marines etc. However the fundamental requirement for all the fabrics required by Defense Forces includes personal protective equipments for military personnel’s required during non-combat, combat and emergency operations, critical survival situations, military uniforms such as Camouflage fabrics and specific performance requirements related to use in better field, tanks, aircrafts, underwater including high hazards and extreme temperature. US Navy Forces used very special uniforms made out of specific camouflage fabrics during the operations to kill Osama in Pakistan. The United States Armed Forces Defense Supply Center-Philadelphia purchasing division for the Department of Defense estimates that over 8,000 different textile items are purchased annually for us by the U.S. military, and this figure actually rises to over 30,000 line items when individual sizes are factored into the item mix. Some of the main item required by the armed forces are as under : l

Combat and flight uniforms also in camouflage

l Helmets l

Flak jackets

l Parachutes l

Aircraft fuel cells

l Sandbags l

Tents and shelters

l Sheets

l Transportation l Upholstery l

Thermal acoustical blankets

l

Soft-sided cases

l Bags l Tarpaulins l Covers l

Safety harnesses

l Straps l

Web assemblies

l

Cotton covered elastic shock cord

The Primary area for Protection The primary area for protection for all conditions main includes ballerstics, chemicals, biological, reductions through noises and visual devices, flame fire, thermal insects and micro organism. In addition to this the gear must have properties for high resistance to sun water replants’ durability, high abrasion, and resistance, tear resistance and should have good air permeability. Certain fabrics are developed as per the operation requirements, certain fabrics are developed which are resistive to petroleum products and lubricants. Development of these fabrics will required very high research and capabilities and very high level of challenges, professional ability and completing the task in time to meet the challenge and operation requirements. This requires different mine set and highly capable professional skills. One has to take into consideration, types of fibers, technical design and it finesses etc into consideration.

l

Blankets and hospital supplies

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Airplane panels

Main Fibers’ used for Defense Textiles :

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Ammunition bags/pouches

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Teflon Fiber

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Fabric for bullet-proof vests/helmets

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Polyester Fiber

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Chemical protective suits

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Nylon 6,6

l Rafts

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l Kevlar Major protections can be classified in following categories : Biological, Chemical, Thermal, Ballistics, environmental, flame, fire, insects and micro organism. Secondary area of protection: resistance to sun, water repellent, air permeability, resistance to infections, resistance to injuries, radiations etc. Camouflage Fabrics Introduction of Camouflage Fabrics The color Red was the uniform color adopted by the first permanent regiment of the British Army, the Yeoman of the Guard, the Beefeaters, during the ruling of Henry VIII. In 1645 this color was adopted when the first permanent army was raised. Red was used in order to hide blood stains. Rather, every army adopted certain colors as their national colors. French soldiers tended to wear blue; Russians wore green; British wore red. It was not until the late 1800s that a Khaki uniform was issued, the British Army finally realizing that drab colored uniforms provided better camouflage. Once again, tactics continued to lag behind during First World War convinced authorities that there was a requirement to seek cover and remain hidden as opposed to standing up in battle formations. Camouflage Fabrics have been existed for more than 75 years and has become very popular since 1990, after the operations desert storm in Middle East by US Forces with NATO Alliances. Today most the armed forces including army, navy, air force and Para military forces are using camouflage fabrics. As the fabric increased the safety factor of individual, solider and nature of the fabric improve the comfort level and also the roughness. It is anticipated that total worldwide requirement of camouflage fabrics is more than 350 million meters annually. Approximately 35 million soldiers worldwide are using camouflage fabrics which includes army, air force, navy, Marines, Coastal Guards, para military forces etc. What is Camouflage and Camouflage Fabric? l Camouflage Fabric is utilized for concealing personnel or equipment from enemies. l Camouflage Fabric gives a unique effect to the personnel or equipment by making them appear as a part of the natural surroundings. l It can also be used for concealing arms and ammunition by disguise or protective coloring. l The Fabric or the garment is dyed in patches of multiple colors, so as to make the user undetectable from the surrounding environment. l Camouflage Fabrics were introduced during the Second World War.

l l etc.).

Protective and Chemically treated (such as Anti Fungal, Anti Bacterial

Advantages - Camouflage Fabrics Apparel Use l Soldiers feel safe with Camouflage fabrics as detection become difficult. l safety.

Since chemically treated for various purposes it provides

l

Low Maintenance cost

l

Long life

l Disposable Camouflage fabrics are also being introduced, particularly in the Middle East where the washing cost is very high. Demand of Camouflage Fabrics l A survey was conducted by an International agency during 2007-2008. l 165 countries including all major consumers such as USA, Russia, China, and Saudi Arabia were included. l Based on the survey it is concluded that annual consumption of Camouflage Fabrics is approximately 350 million meters and is growing @ 10% per year. Major manufacturers of Camouflage Fabrics are: l

South Korea,

l China, l Brazil, l Mexico, l Indonesia, l

Turkey etc.

l Camouflage Fabrics is very sensitive products and armed forces are very concern and sensitive while deciding their suppliers and its location like many of them do not prefer to buy countries like Mexico. Marketing l Camouflage Fabric marketing takes time as all the defense forces have their own methods of establishing compliances & due diligence on suppliers and their locations which cannot be compromised. l Appointments are also not walk through and it requires contact building using all possible channels. l However, once accepted they do not change suppliers unless and until they have strong reasons such as political situation etc. Advantages 窶的ndia l Domestic availability of raw materials such as Polyester, Cotton etc. l

Availability of skilled, technical manpower

l However, they its used has increased after 1991 Iraq War.

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Reliable delivery commitment

l It has uses as under:

l

Technical training and education facility locally available.

1. Uniforms for officers and soldiers in defense forces.

l

High standards of technical education

2. Making armored vehicles and other equipments untraceable. 3. Covering airplanes, guns and boats. 4. Creating deceptions. 5. Tents for living and storage purposes. Various types of Camouflage Fabrics: l

Apparel Grade,

l

Canvas Grade,

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l Availability of large businesses with resources to create huge capacity plants. l Thorough and in-depth understanding of International Business requirements l

Sense of Commitments extremely strong.

l Since India is not manufacturing Camouflage fabrics in large numbers. There is a big opportunities for Indian Companies.

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l However, Camouflage is in short supply but if larger capacities are created or available, the business will grow conclusively. l There is a process which felicitates confidence trust and relationship building. l Mistakes are unacceptable and cannot be compromised due to the nature, importance and utility of this kind of product. Technical Requirements l One of the most important requirements of rics is that they should be variation free.

these fab-

l Variation cannot be tolerated therefore most of the manufacturers are buying large Single lots of polyester, buying cotton from one field. l Certain number of spindles is allocated for spinning and accordingly the looms are allocated. Finally processing takes place which gives great results. Prices Current prices of Camouflage fabrics are ranging from 4.50 USD to 7.50 USD per meter depending upon the construction and delivery time of the fabrics. Price will also depend on following factors: 1.

Weight of the fabrics,

2. Design 3.

Complexity of utility

4.

End use

5.

Finish – Anti Fungal, Anti Bacterial, etc.

Value Addition

l Since these products involve big contracts, payments are ensured. l Various risks such as currency variation etc are very well covered. l Any abnormal increase in the price of raw materials is also covered. Specifications Apparel Use l

Blends are polyester 65% and cotton 35%.

l

Middle East the polyester is 35% and cotton 65%.

l Count ranges can be 2/20s, 2/32s, 2/40s and sometimes 2/60s also. l Camouflage fabrics used in Middle East also has specifications 2/80s, 100% polyester in warp and 20s carded and 20s combed in weft. This particular fabric used in borders and deserts where dust is very high. l Defense Forces such as the Navy also use Camouflage Fabrics. l These fabrics have warp as textured yarns and weft construction is spun yarns etc. Armored Vehicles coverage and heavy use l Wrap is textures polyester heavy denier and the weft is spun yarn. l Aircraft coverage Camouflage fabrics armored of 100% textures polyester yarn fabrics. l Camouflage fabric is used for covering guns etc are made of very heavy cotton yarn such as 2/10 and heavily treated. q

l Camouflage fabrics provide very good value addition. SUCCESSFULSECOND SEASON FOR EXHIBITORS AT INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE FAIR The highly successful second season of the International Textile Fair (ITF)took place this week on the 26th and 27th April 2015 at DWTC Hall 1. The fair opened to an overwhelming response, following an inauguration ceremony by H. E. ButtiSaeed Al Ghandi, Second Vice-Chairman of the Dubai World Trade Centre (DWTC). His Excellency visited a number of the exhibitor stall and expressed appreciation for the organizers and the scale of the event. Apparel brands, local and international buyers, and textile traders to fashion designers, design studios and institutions are visitors. The bi-annual event, which is organized by Nihalani Events Management, is an integral asset to the regional fabric and fashion industry. This season, the two-day fair hosted close to 150 exhibitors from 20 countries and has already received confirmations from eager exhibitors who have booked stalls for Season Three that will be held on 11th and 12th of October 2015. The fair has seen a marked increase in European exhibitors since its first season withmany of the best Italian textile manufacturers participating in the fair. Mr. Mirko from Tessiles.r.l. is a first time exhibitor but says he’s extremely pleased by the response he’s received at the fair and has confirmed his return for the next season. The International Textile Fair is the region’s premiere event focusing on textiles and clothing. This unique event attracts some of the world’s largest manufacturers of fabrics and leading print design studios, offerings buyers, distributors and designers the opportunity to view a large range of textiles from the most prestigious global mills. The fair saw over 10,000 visitors this season with a concentration of buyers and traders based in the Middle East. Designers find the fair particularly beneficial as they have the opportunity to source smaller quantities of unique fabric directly from the source. Celebrated regional designer, Aiisha Ramadan,spent

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considerable time at the fair, sourcing fabrics, speaking with manufacturers and attending talks. Having attended other globally renowned fabric fairs, she was pleased at the presence of a regional platform and said, “I am very happy with the number of exhibitors at the International Textile Fair. As a designer it gives me a lot of choice in fabrics that are not necessarily available in the local market.” The Fashion Talks that took place at the fair this season have received an enthusiastic response from both buyers and designers, eager to get additional insight on international trends. Experts from the prestigiousinternational agencies Pantone, Peclers Paris, Promostyl, and Nelly Rodi along withlocal institutions likeKhawarizmi International College and the Islamic Fashion and Design Council discussed color and trend forecasts for 2016 with the regional audience. ITFhas also created a dedicated Modest Fashion Area in collaboration with the Islamic Fashion and Design Council to showcase the designs of some of the renowned modest fashion designers in the region. Regional designers Stephanie Jaye, Hafsa Lodi, Hema Kaul, Meher & Riddhima, and Abaya Addict among othersgave visitors a sneak peek at the beautiful collections they have lined up for the next season. Today U.A.E.is the world’s fourth largest trading centre of fashion and apparel, raking in an estimated $17.5 billion annuallywith the presence of about 150 apparel manufacturing companies that account for about 5.5% of the world’s annual textile and clothing sales. By 2016, the countryis set to become the world’s leading high-end textile and garment re-export centre with a current annual cumulative growth rate of 4%.International Textile Fair is a much-needed platform in the region to continue to propel this growth and provide regional textile and associated business with a distinctive edge. q

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POST EVENT REPORT Secretary, Ministry of Youth Affairs Sri Rajeev Gupta, Applauds the Skill Development Initiative of ATDC at National Principal’s Meet Gurgaon: Adhiveshan 2015, Annual ATDC’s Principals’ Meet was hosted by Apparel Training & Design Centre, India’s Largest Quality Vocational Training Provider for the Apparel Industry at Manesar, Gurgaon. The 3 day Meet was primarily focused on understanding the emerging skill framework in the country and how ATDC plays a key role by contributing to large scale quality skilling of Indian youth specially women in rural/ mofussils and semi urban areas for meeting the rapidly changing skill requirements of Apparel Sector with real time Industry relevant skill modules & new learning solutions, thus providing wage employment for youth specially women. Guests of Honor Sri Rajeev Gupta, Secretary, Ministry of Youth Affairs, GoI and Dr. Latha Pillai, Director, RGNIYD. Dr. Hari Kapoor, VC, ATDC, Dr. Darlie Koshy, DG & CEO, ATDC also graced the meet. ATDC today has dedicated verticals to work with Ministry of Textiles, GOI (for ISDS Project), DGE&T, Ministry of Skill Development & Entrepreneurship, GOI (for Longer Duration Vocational Courses) and AICTE, Ministry of HRD, GOI & RGNIYD, Ministry of Youth Affairs & Sports, GOI (for B. Voc. Courses) and is committed to bring in qualitative change by providing industry ready trained professionals to improve efficiency and productivity across all tiers of the domestic, export and e-retail apparel value chain. ATDC has recently announced B. Voc Programmes in ‘Apparel Manufacturing & Entrepreneurship’ and ‘Fashion Design & Retail’ as AICTE, under the aegis of HRD has approved 30 of ATDC PanIndia Centres across as Skill Knowledge Providers (SKPs) under NSQF for implementing various long-term vocational programmes. ATDC has also entered into MOU with the Rajiv Gandhi National Institute of Youth Development (RGNIYD) under the Ministry of Youth Affairs and Sports, Govt. of India which is an “Institute of National Importance” as declared by Parliament (Act of Parliament No. : 35/2012) to provide 1000 hours of general education from the RGNIYD while ATDC would offer 2000 hours of Professional Skill development focused on Apparel Sector leading to a B.Voc Degree on successful competition of both general and domain courses to the Candidates and to celebrate this big leap the day 1 of the Meet

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concentrated on the new B.Voc programmes being launched. Sri Rajeev Gupta, Secretary, Ministry of Youth Affairs, GoI enthused the gathering to make blue collar jobs aspirational and convert the Demographic Dividend to the country’s advantage by offering Degree like B.Voc courses which will definitely lead to ‘employability’ at a higher level with better salary packages. Dr. Darlie Koshy, DG&CEO-ATDC speaking at the session shared while exporters require cycle & through put time to be cut down, the domestic sector wants “Product Lifecycle Management” ‘fast turnaround of store merchandising’, captivating visuals etc. The e-commerce/m-commerce wants fashion to meet instant gratification standard. ATDC is the largest vocational training provider for the textile-apparel chain offering a comprehensive bouquet of courses for ‘career’ progression in an integrated manner by creating a “step ladder-training eco-system” with clear focus on “Skilling of aspirational Indian youth”. Dr. Latha Pillai Director, RGNIYD shared, “The ATDC-RGNIYD collaboration is a unique collaborative arrangement which will benefit the youth of India by imparting ‘skills & knowledge’ with help of multimedia digital contents and alternate pedagogy and making class rooms exciting.” The sessions on Day 2 & 3 consisted of deep-dive deliberations & strategy discussions for each tier of the ‘Step-ladder’ model of ATDC & total quality management of courses along with sessions on improving the quality & enrolment in the long-term programmes, contents standardization, promotion and quality enhancement of teaching pedagogy through Digital Contents, streamlining of finance & account processes, strengthening the management of Centres’ and new approaches for industry interface, placement, certification and assessment of trained candidates. Based on the clear agenda of ‘Mobilisation | Training| Employment | Placement’ using both short term- long term courses, the Meet ended on a high note with the team motivated for a stronger growth trajectory for the apparel industry and to strengthen ATDC as a desirable quality brand for vocational education.

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FASHION FOCUS FASHION RETAILING – THE HUMAN TOUCH

Shri Vishnu Govind

Independent Brand Consutant Business Director - Thinkkloud The apparel market in India is not as evolved as it is in some of the leading fashion capitals of the world. Talking of menswear, the Indian male, till not so long back, was used to buying a piece of fabric, or receiving the same as a festival gift, and taking it to the neighborhood tailor to get it stitched as per his measurements. The tailor fulfilled not just his obvious role, but also that of an acquaintance, a stylist and a fashion advisor, all rolled into one. There was strong loyalty towards a particular tailor, much like the comfort levels we have with a specific retailer or a clothing brand these days. His inputs influenced your wardrobe mix a lot- at a time when there was no internet and the information superhighway to turn to whenever we had a doubt, on just about anything. The tailor and the salesman at the shop from where you regularly bought your clothes represented a strong human touch in the purchase process- after all, who would not like a validation from an expert on your sartorial selections. Human touch in fashion retailing, if we take it literally, had also a lot to do with how we experienced the tactile feel of the fabric or garment when we purchased them. Before the advent of colors and styling details in the office-goers’ wardrobe, fabric quality stood out even stronger as the mark of a discerning man. There were only a few readymade menswear brands in India in the 1980s- they were either seen as luxury or as the choice of the youth or the fashion-conscious. The 90s saw many readymade brands coming up in the Indian market. The economy opened up and the business climate changed; this coincided with the media boom and rising international exposure- the lifestyle revolution was taking shape. With India becoming a focus market for many international business houses, the apparel market saw the entry of many wellknown foreign brands in the last decade. This coincided with rising levels of disposable incomes for a burgeoning middle class as well as increasing levels of fashion consciousness in India. Since we are taking the evolution of menswear as a reference point here, it is important to consider that the cultural context has influenced the changing personality of the Indian man too. The ramifications of the same can be found in fashion preferences and even more so in how fashion brands advertised their products. Traditionally fashion brands showed the protagonist as a ‘successful’ man in the conventional sense of the word, often hinting at the inherited power that he wields. Many formal brands showcased the successful executive too- formal clothing was driving the category those days. With time, the dominant value systems in our country changed; fashion brands started showcasing different facets of the Indian male-the need to be yourself, the desire to follow your heart, and to define success in your own terms. With increased fashion-consciousness and higher income levels, the Indian male has learnt to dress up differently for different occasions- today most brands have collections for different usage occasions like business, party, leisure and such aspects of life. Of

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late, brands have been reporting better sales growths in casualwear- like denims and T Shirts, more than formal shirts and trousers. This is quite understandable given the way offices are increasingly accepting smart casuals as work wear. The plastic money boom and improved retailing avenues have triggered impulse purchases significantly in the clothing space. Today’s consumer is busy- he works hard and plays hard; he needs instant gratification and seeks convenience. Brands who are in OTC fabric businesses have been facing sales pressures and have ventured into readymade business too- often as extensions for the same brand or by launching news brands. Online selling in India has witnessed tremendous growth in the past few years. Improved connectivity, huge investor confidence in e-commerce business models, a favorable shift in consumer disposition towards transacting online- all have combined to bring about a big change in the e-retailing space in India. Apparel as a category has been very much a part of this trend. If we look at readymade garments as an e-commerce opportunity- a couple of challenges seem quite logical for the reason that they seemingly come up as huge barriers. The first issue concerns the fit of the garments. Brands have their own patterns and many of them have collections in multiple fits. For instance a Size 42 shirt of Brand A could drape differently from a shirt of same size in Brand B; in fact, it is possible that Brand A might have two shirts in two different fits because they could be from two different labels or subbrands. The second challenge is, of course, the hand feel, which in some ways is a measure of the quality of the garment. With the readymade segment evolving, many brands have attained a critical mass and have large number of consumers who are aware of how their products fit, or how the quality of the fabric will be. This enables well-known brands to be picked by consumers when they look to buy clothes online. Liberal exchange and return policies by the portals have further lowered the barriers to the e– commerce boom in the fashion sector. One big challenge for fashion brands in India is in being able to get necessary throughput per unit area in terms of sales. On rent to revenue ratio for retail space, we are way behind other prominent Asian markets, let alone the fashion capitals of Europe and America. Many brands have experienced a decline in profitability as they expanded their retail footprint to lower tier towns. Internet selling allows brands to spread their wings and be accessible to a much wider audience. The major e-commerce players in India in the fashion space offer a wide range of products from a wide variety of brands in varying price points to the ‘click-happy’ consumer. This variety coupled with the value proposition in terms of price and the convenience factor acts as a driving force for the category. Clothing and accessories continue to be one of the fastest moving categories in the lifestyle space, as far as e commerce is concerned.

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July 2015


The online space is seeing technological developments at a fast pace by the key players aimed at improving the shopping experience and improving their share of wallet. With smartphone sales booming in the country, mobile Internet connectivity too is on the rise and has crossed a penetration of 200 Mn. This would be more than half the Internet reach in India. In fact, the online market places are seeing proportionate consumer outreach through their hand phones. From being a device used to talk to people over distances, and to send them short messages, the hand phone has indeed come a long way- it fulfills many roles in our lives- FM radio, the watch that tells the time, camera, computer with internet connectivity- it has now become your inseparable companion. Mobile apps of retailers help you carry your favorite stores with you wherever you go, and they have turned the battle for the share of the wallet into a battle for the share of the phone memory. They help retailers stay connected with you through push notifications and literally bring the store to your fingertips. We recently saw one of the major ecommerce players closing down their website and becoming a exclusively mobile app-based retailer. From the point of view of major branded players, the brick and mortar formats continue to bring in the lion’s share of the business. In this context, it is important to look at the importance of Exclusive Branded Outlets (EBOs) in building retail brands. EBOs play a big role in making a brand salient and strengthening it to a point

where it can attract consumers by the weight of its name. They showcase the collections the way the brand owners want it to be and are vital for building stature and image for the brand. While this controlled retailing environment does justice to the values of the brand, it also comes with huge capital and operating expenses, and is often not the most profitable of channels. Brands, therefore, try to get a mix of EBOs and other multi-branded retail channels where they bill the products to the retailers. As of now, e-commerce, as a channel, is still a long way from being a big contributor to the channel mix of brands. However, the point to be noted is that they are indeed on a steep growth trajectory. What we are speaking of here is a trend, of the emergence of a channel that is a recent entrant in the market. If we go by reports, the e-commerce market for apparel in India has crossed INR 3000 Cr in 2014. This is still a very small part of our clothing market, but has grown to this scale in such a short time. E commerce will continue to grow disproportionately and become a bigger channel for brands in the coming times. When the QWERTY phones came a few years back, we thought they were here to stay. For those of us who are lamenting the absence of the ‘human touch’ in a shopping experience, they can take solace in the fact that we are in the era of the touch screen, and that the human touch continues to play its part, albeit in a very different way! q

COTTON USA announces its first joint retail activity with Shoppers Stop New Delhi, July 2015: COTTON USA, thetrademark ingredient brand of Cotton Council International (CCI), announces its first retail partnership withIndia’s leading fashion retailer - Shoppers Stop. COTTON USA and Shoppers Stop willconduct a monthlongin-store promotion aimed atincreasing consumer awareness of U.S. cottonrich apparel, and gradually move toward creating anexclusiveline of labeled merchandise. The promotion will take place in five stores across Delhi/NCR (Rajouri and Noida), Mumbai (Malad and Vashi) and Bangalore (Malleshwaram). “This is an exciting time for COTTON USA, as we are looking at its expansion in the retail space in India,” Renu Aggarwal, India Representative for CCI, said.“Shoppers Stop’s unique positioning as a ‘bridge to luxury’ retailer and its customer basegive us a platform for more sales and increased visibility, while conveying the messaging of trust and purity. We are looking forward to a mutually beneficial relationship.” Shoppers Stop is among the first of many brands that COTTON USA has partnered with for joint consumer promotion activities in India. COTTON USA, a mark of purity, quality and responsibility, places itself in the affordable luxury category and targets both the youth as well as the older age group. The partnership assists COTTON USA indrivingmarket penetration and increasingconsumerawareness about the label in the domestic market. “We are delighted to give our customers the opportunity to indulge in the signature COTTON USA experience,” Vinay Bhatia, Customer Care Associate &Executive Vice President – Marketing, Loyalty, & Analytics, Shoppers Stop Limited, said.“COTTON USA is the leading custodian of cotton quality standards, and its mark enhances the value of the product. We are happy to associate with COTTON USA in this effort to promote and reinforce the use of U.S. cotton and cotton fabrics in India.”

July 2015 www.textilevaluechain.com

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COTTON REPORT

Mr. Manish Daga Textile Technologiest

INDIA Arrivals: (as on date: 30-06-2015)

State wise

Arrival

the yield at the end of the season.

2013-14

2014-15

(Lac bales)

(Lac bales)

Punjab

22.35

11.71

Haryana

22.00

20.72

Rajasthan

14.00

16.64

Gujarat

114.85

96.51

Maharashtra

78.77

70.47

19.00

M. P.

Telangana

A. P.

Karnataka

2.70

16.97 56.43

78.22

26.53

23.51

30.40

Orissa

4.10

3.50

Other

1.85

6.17

Total

383.37 356.05

Weather and Sowing: Rainfall in India during the weekend was poor with many areas failing to get enough rain. The western region in India (including Gujarat, Maharashtra, Madhya Pradesh and Andhra Pradesh) experienced a net loss in soil moisture and warmer temperatures. Portions of Punjab, Haryana and northern Uttar Pradesh have received sufficient rain to bolster topsoil moisture for long term crop development. A serious boost in soil moisture will be needed soon in cotton areas of west India to avoid a serious threat to production. IMD forecasts less than normal rainfall in July and August. Sowing: (as on date 02.07.2015)

State wise

2014-15

2015-16

Sowing

(Lac hectares)

(Lac hectares)

Punjab

05.00

4.50

Haryana

06.38

5.81

Rajasthan

02.83

1.83

Gujarat

07.22

07.63

Maharashtra

03.56

19.87

01.27

05.30

M. P.

Telangana

A. P.

Karnataka Orissa

Tamil Nadu

Total

05.08

11.25

0.69

0.73

02.50

02.82

0.33

0.18

0.30 35.42

0.03 60.163

Cotton cultivation will remain attractive for the Indian farmers, which will prevent any large shift towards alternate crops and hence negate concerns of lower production. A lot will depend on

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Domestic Market Summary: It is nearing the end of the cotton season but actual crop size remains a mystery. While the Cotton Association of India has cut its crop forecast for cotton season 2014-15 to 6.5 million tons (38.2 million bales) from last year’s 6.9 million tons, ICAC forecasts India’s crop in 2015-16 to further fall to 6.4 million tons. Even if cotton production declines by up to 15 % next season, the adequate domestic stock position is likely to keep the prices stable during cotton year 2015-16, according to rating agency ICRA. The consistent rise in domestic cotton production without adequate domestic spinning and processing capacities and declining export demand remains a challenge. The textile industry is passing through a critical period. Many small mills are closed in Tamil Nadu and some are on the verge of closing. These mills have to pay a huge amount to cotton suppliers since over 2- 3 months leading to a major financial crisis in the textile market. Demand in yarn and fabric is very less. The powerloom cloth manufacturers are having huge stock of grey cloth. Approximately 50 to 60 % looms are closed in Bhiwandi, the powerloom hub of India. The technical picture looks bullish at the moment, but the fundamentals remain weak. Physical prices have so far not followed the futures market, as mills are in no hurry to chase these prices in view of a dull yarn market and cheaper polyester prices. However, international merchants have been very active this week establishing sizeable basis-long positions, buying physical cotton in various origins such as India, East and West Africa, Brazil and the US, and then hedging it with bearish futures and/or options strategies. Therefore, unless there is a major crop reduction or a revival of demand, analysts consider the futures market as being overvalued. Cotton Corporation of India (CCI) Mr. B.K. Mishra, the Chairman and Managing Director of CCI stated that of the total procurement of 8.7 million bales, CCI has sold 3 million bales to domestic traders and mills and around 0.1 million bales to Bangladesh. CCI has registered a record sale of over 1 million bales in the last 10 days. A large volume of CCI cotton has been purchased by international traders. Indian traders claim that although there were some export enquiries, there is not much margin in export. Also there is very limited demand of domestic spinners. As a result of these sales, the rates in current market have increased but there is a practical problem of payment in the market. Most mills do not have capital to build inventories. CCI still has over 5.5 million bales of unsold cotton stock. Yarn Cotton yarn exports from India have been dwindling month after month, posting 13 months of fall in year on year comparison. This fall is a matter of deep concern. The withdrawal of Focus Mar-

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July 2015


ket Scheme for cotton yarns was also the cause of steep decline in exports to non-conventional markets like African countries like Peru, Morocco etc. India is exporting cotton spun yarn to over 77 countries. China and Bangladesh were the top two importers of cotton yarn in the recent months while Australia, South Africa and Cote D’Ivoire were the fastest growing markets for Indian cotton yarn. China’s imports of cotton yarns from Vietnam have increased substantially in the last year, with shipments from India and Pakistan being therefore negatively affected by this surging competition. China’s cotton yarn demand will remain crucial to the fortunes of global cotton spinning industries. Forthcoming Events 1. China Cotton Forum 2015 in Aug 6-7, 2015 Hangzhou, China 2. Asia Cotton Outlook, Vietnam, Aug 25-27, 2015 International Market: With global cotton demand largely being range-bound (negligible demand growth during last 5 years), the supply remains the key driver of prices. According to an ICAC report, cotton planting in 2015-16 is expected be much lower and the global crop could be 8.5 % lower at 23.9 million tons. The global consumption is expected to increase 2.33 % to 24.93 million tons. In a recent analysis, Rabo Bank said world consumption would exceed production by 6 million bales (of 170 kg each) and expects new crop price through December quarter to be 72 US cents/ pound. . The fall in Chinese demand has been so sharp that it will result in less planting of the crop in FY16. However, there will still be enough cotton in the market, as world stocks of 106.3 million bales would still be the second highest on record. Pakistan: According to the market sources, no significant change was seen on the cotton market in the absence of guiding factor. Spinning Mills continue to buy as per requirement amid steady arrivals. Favourable weather in Sindh and Punjab may help to achieve the desired crop target for the new season. Australia: National Australia Bank has forecast a rise in Australian cotton prices in 2015-16, by 9.3%, seeing a limited recovery in production from the previous season’s 44% slump in output on significantly lower plantings due to reduced irrigation water availability. China: The world’s top cotton consumer, will auction an initial volume of 1 million tons of cotton from state reserves during from 10th July. It will offer 330,000 tons of domestic 328 quality cotton from the 2011 crop with a floor price of 13,200 yuan per ton, 470,000 tons of domestic cotton from 2012 at 14,200 yuan per ton, and 200,000 tons of imported cotton from the 2012 crop at 15,500 yuan per ton. China was expected to offer its old crop cotton at a discount to attract buyers. China’s stocks seem set to reduce only gradually. A Government official said that maintaining price stability remains a priority and they do not wish to pressure market prices. It would take several years for the market to digest the state-held cotton reserves, which are currently estimated at around 10 million tons, accounting for more than 40 % of world stocks. Heavy rains in South China in June may damage cotton and rice crops in that area. China Cotton Association projects cotton output at 5.86 million tons in the 2015-16 marketing year, a decline of 9.8 % compared with 2014-15. Latest updates show that China ZCE futures are down about 4%. There is a 45% fall in Chinese markets and trading has been halted. Global markets will also suffer following the crash of Chinese markets, China being the largest commodity buyer worldwide. U.S.: Cotton farmers in the U.S. have dedicated under 9 million

July 2015 www.textilevaluechain.com

acres this year which is down 20 % and lowest since 1983. Important Reports: USDA: The much-anticipated USDA Planted Acreage report provided the catalyst for New York’s rally. This season’s weather pattern in West Texas and the eleventh-hour rush to plant in time to meet insurance deadlines in that major producing region has created an uncertainty about the acreage. USDA placed total acreage just shy of nine million acres. That area would be the lowest planted to cotton in the US since 1983. Reports suggest that USDA intends to do a re-survey of some parts of Texas sometime this month. It will be reflected in the August supply and demand report. Reports from other major producing and exporting countries are also better. In its latest monthly report, the China Cotton Association notes that yield prospects are slightly better than last year but its estimate of the area sown remains some 25 percent below last year’s figure. In Pakistan, sowing is approaching a conclusion and area is expected to be modestly higher than that last year. In Central Asia, Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan, the two largest producers, anticipate production in line with last season, whereas waning government support appears to have placed cotton on a downward trajectory in Tajikistan and Kazakhstan. The Brazilian harvest is poised to expand and, despite some mixed early reports, the impression conveyed to last week’s gathering of ANEA was broadly reassuring in respect of both yields and quality. At current prices around 67.40 ICE cotton faces a strong resistance. Chinese auctions are also likely to take place in the month of July-Aug. The National Development and Reform Commission, following approval from the State Council, have announced that auctions of state reserve cotton will take place on the China National Cotton Exchange during July and August. As rumoured previously, the total quantity to be made available will be one million tonnes. The composition will be 330,000 tonnes from the domestic 2011 crop, 470,000 from 2012 and 200,000 (rather less than some observers predicted) of imported lots. But the fact remains that the biggest importer of cotton is not shopping in the world market. ICAC: 2015/16: Another Season of Uncertainty In 2014/15, the Secretariat predicts a midpoint of 71 cents/lb for the Cotlook A Index with a narrow range of 70 to 73 cents/lb. In 2015/16, international cotton prices may remain stable, though this will depend in part on changes in world cotton stocks. In 2014/15, world ending stocks are forecast up 9% to 21.9 million tons, reflecting a stock-to-use ratio of 90%. Starting in 2010/11, the world has accumulated 13.4 million tons of stock due to production volumes exceeding consumption volumes. In 2015/16, stocks are projected to decrease 5% to 20.9 million tons, reducing the excess volume by 1 million tons. Stocks held outside of China are expected to decrease by 3%, to just under 9 million tons, by the end of 2015/16. However, much of this will depend on how the Chinese government handles its reserves. Last month the Chinese government announced that it planned to start selling its stockpiles, estimated at around 11.3 million tons, at a price close to the current market price in the hopes of keeping the market stable. However, no further details have been announced so far, and it’s uncertain how successfully China will be able to sell off its excess cotton stock without destabilizing the market. World cotton area in 2015/16 is projected down 6% to 31.3 million hectares, due largely to lower prices in 2014/15. Assuming a world average yield of 764 kg/ha, production could reach 23.9 million tons, down 9% from 2014/15. China’s cotton area is forecast to decrease by 12% to 3.8 million hectares, and production down by 16% to 5.4 million tons in 2015/16. While low cotton prices during 2014/15 in India are expected to cause cotton area to decrease by 5% to 11.6

31


million hectares in 2015/16, falling prices for competing crops and a modest increase in the minimum support price may forestall a greater decline. The Indian monsoon arrived earlier this year compared to 2014/15, and yields may improve 3% to 547 kg/ha, limiting the decrease in production to 6.4 million tons. Low international cotton prices have limited farmer enthusiasm to plant cotton, and area in the United States may contract 15% to 3.3 million hectares. Production is forecast to decline by 12% to 3.1 million tons. Area in Pakistan is projected to contract 6% to 2.7 million hectares due to low domestic prices in 2014/15, and production is expected to decrease 11% to 2.1 million tons. In 2015/16, world cotton consumption is forecast up 2% to 24.9 million tons. China’s consumption is expected to remain stable at 7.7 million tons, though its share of total world consumption will likely decline to 31%, which is the sixth consecutive season of reduction since 2009/10 when it accounted for 40% of world consumption. India’s mill use is projected up 3% to 5.4 million tons in 2015/16, accounting for 22% of world consumption. Strong demand from countries that rely on imports to support their spinning sector is expected to boost world trade in 2015/1 to 7.7 million tons. Imports outside of China are projected up 4% to 6.1 million tons, partially offsetting the 9% decline in Chinese imports to 1.6 million tons. Southern India Mills’ Association (SIMA) The Southern India Mills’ Association (SIMA) has called upon Tamil Nadu chief minister to announce a comprehensive textile policy to ensure financial viability and competitiveness of existing manufacturing facilities in the state and encourage value addition. SIMA had been closely working with the government to draft the policy for the entire textile value chain, and had already submitted its proposal. It suggested that the government should consider issues like VAT reduction on cotton textiles to 2 % from 5 % and removal of 1 % market committee cess on cotton and cotton waste. The government should also set a separate power tariff for the textile industry based on load factor and cost-to-serve basis. Government Reports: • Interest subvention scheme: Continuing its declining trend, India’s exports shrank by about 20.19 per cent in May to USD 22.34 billion, marking a fall for the sixth straight month. Worried over continuous decline in exports, the Commerce Ministry is considering interest subsidy benefits for textile sector including garments. • The interest subvention scheme of 3 % ended on March 31,

32

last year. Under the interest subvention scheme exporters get loans at subsidized rates which would help exporters to boost shipments as the country’s overall exports. The proposal would also go to the Union cabinet for its approval. • In a bid to remove persistent bottlenecks in Indian agriculture and revive growth, the government has approved an INR.500 billion irrigation package and took the first step to create a national market for agricultural produce. The Pradhan Mantri Krishi Sinchai Yojana (PMKSY), Prime Minister Mr. Narendra Modi’s flagship irrigation scheme, will ensure that all farm lands get water for cultivation, promoting conservation and efficient management (of water resources). • To address the problem of a sudden slump in prices of agri commodities, the cabinet has approved the creation of a national agricultural market through an electronic platform to provide farmers and traders with access to opportunities for purchase and sale of agri-commodities in a transparent manner. The goal of the e-marketing platform is to reform agricultural marketing, improve access to markets and transparent price discovery for farmers. • Maharashtra government has asked seed companies to reduce seed prices by INR 100/packet in view of drought conditions in the state. Seed companies are unhappy with the decision and want the government to at least maintain prices at INR 930/packet (450gm each). Maharashtra is the biggest seller of BT cotton seeds in the country. Technical Reports: 1. ICE COTTON Cotton remains in short term uptrend, still remains accumulate in dips market. But rally yet to pick up steam. Ice Cotton can test 7274 areas, which would be key hurdle. Below 62 areas, weakness can creep in again in short term. 57 now remains a key medium to long term bottom. Traders advised to buy for short to medium term above 62 for targets of 74, shorts only advisable below 62 levels. Key Supports 62.20-59.83-57.30, Key Resistances 70.30-71.50-73.80. 2. MCX COTTON MCX Cotton also in short term uptrend, inline with international markets; remains buy in dips above 15400. Strong upside momentum expected if able to cross 16900. All significant dips can be used to accumulate for targets of 18000 levels in medium term, stop loss below 15170 advisable. 13970 remains a key medium to long term bottom. Key Supports 15710-15430-15280-15170, Key Resistances 16900-17250-18300-18700.

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July 2015


POST SHOW REPORT MUMBAI TO HOST INDIA’S LARGEST EVER GARMENT FAIR

l CMAI’S 61ST NATIONAL GARMENT FAIR FROM 29TH JUNE TO 1ST JULY 2015 l OVER 780 BRANDS TO SHOWCASE THEIR LATEST FESTIVE COLLECTIONS l CMAI TO SET UP 50 TRAINING CENTERS TO IMPART TRAINING TO 35,000 TRAINEES BY 31ST MARCH 2017 The Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI) is organizing “India’s largest Ever Apparel Trade Show – The 61ST National Garment Fair” from 29TH June to 1ST July 2015 at Bombay Exhibition Centre, NSE Complex, Goregaon (East), Mumbai. The Association has Invited Shri Santosh Kumar Gangwar, Hon’ble Minister of State for Textiles ( I/C), Govt of India to be the Chief Guest and Inaugurate the Fair on 29th June 2015 at 10.30 AM. and Dr. S.K. Panda, IAS, Secretary (Textiles) to be the Guest of Honour at the Inauguration. Mr. Rahul Mehta, President- The Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (who is also the Chairman of International Apparel Federation), stated that this B2B Fair will be spread over approx. 5.00 Lakh square feet, covering all the Halls at the Bombay Exhibition Centre. There will be more than 700 Stalls Displaying over 780 Brands. This will be the India’s Largest Ever Garment Fair held so far. Approx. 40,000 Retailers from all over India are expected to visit this 3 Day B2B Fair. Over One lakh Invitation Cards displaying the Participating Brands in Men’s wear, Women’s wear & Kid’s wear have been sent by the Exhibitors to their Retailers, Wholesalers, Agents & Distributors Inviting them to visit their Stalls at the Fair. CMAI has introduced for the first time, Online Registration for Visitors to save his time and have quick entry to the fair. The Business Networking Sessions will continue this year as well. CMAI has for the first time Invited E-Commerce Companies to participate in this Session. CMAI’S APPAREL TRAINING CENTRES CMAI was last year appointed as one of the Lead Implementing Agencies under Component II of the Integrated Skill Development Scheme (ISDS) of the Ministry of Textiles, Govt of India to Impart Training to 35,000 Trainees in the 12th Five Year Plan. CMAI plans to set up 50 Apparel Training Centers across India. CMAI has already set up 35 Training Centers across Six States.

dex” to Gauge the Health of the Domestic Apparel Retail Market and provide concrete and credible information for assessing the performance of the Industry which can facilitate all the Stakeholders in taking informed business decisions. Based on the Data collected from 100 Brands from 4 Distinct Turnover Segments, CMAI’s Domestic Apparel Retail Index is compiled and released to the Industry once every Quarter. Annual Apparel Index at 7.28, indicates positive fiscal for 201415. In all four quarters from April 2014 to March 2015, the industry has managed to grow by 7.28 points. DELAY & DEFAULT IN PAYMENTS Readymade Garment Manufacturers were very much disturbed with Payment Delays & Defaults from the Trade. CMAI has appointed a Conciliation & Arbitration Sub Committee under the Chairmanship of Mr Rajesh Masand, Vice President of the Association. Now, in case of any payment complaint, CMAI calls both the Parties and try to amicably settle the matter. If the settlement does not take place, the message of Default circulated within the Industry to caution the Manufacturers about a particular Buyer and his Default. This would, on one hand create a deterrent amongst wrong –doers and on the other hand, Garment Manufacturers would be constrained in supplying goods to the Defaulter. SIZE OF THE APPAREL INDUSTRY The Total Size of the Domestic Indian Apparel Industry is estimated to be around Rs. 2,00,000 Crores for domestic market. Out of this, un-stitched Garments like Dhotis and Sarees constitute Rs. 50,000 Crores. The Size of the Organized Retail Sector is around Rs. 40,000 Crores. The remaining Rs. 1,10,000 Crores is the size of Un-organized Sector. The Indian Domestic Apparel Industry’s size is estimated to Double within next 5 years, stated Mr. Rahul Mehta. In view of the Infrastructure Issues and rising Labour Costs in our competitive Countries such as Bangladesh and China, the growth in the Export Sector looks brighter for India. In the previous Financial Year 2014-15, Garment Exports increased by 12.2% to US$ 16.8 Billion. In Rupee terms, the Export was Rs. 1,03,000 Crores, as against the Export of Rs. 90,790 Crores in the previous year. Thus, the Total Size of Indian Apparel Industry (Domestic plus Export) is roughly Rs. 3,00,000 Crores.

STANDARDISATION OF INDIAN SIZES CMAI is working on a new Initiative “Size India “ to carry out a Scientific, Systematic Anthropometric Study of the Indian Population for the purpose of Developing a Sizing System for the Indian Domestic Apparel Industry . Under the “Size India” Project, CMAI plans to Measure more than 50,000 Indians to establish a Standard Indian Sizing for Apparel . CMAI’s DOMESTIC APPAREL RETAIL INDEX CMAI last year launched “CMAI’s Domestic Apparel Retail In-

July 2015 www.textilevaluechain.com

33


SHOW CALENDAR

July 2015 22

Natural Fibre Conclave Place : Coimbatore, info: www.citiindia.com

30- 1st

Screen Print Vietnam 2015 Place : Vietnam, info : www.screenprintvietnam.com August 2015

6-7

China Cotton Forum 2015 , Place : Hangzhou, China,

9-11

Knit Show Place : Tirupur/ Tamilnadu, info: www.knitshow.in

25-27

Asia Cotton Outlook, Place: Vietnam September 2015

2-5

Dhaka International Yarn & Fabric Show Place : Dhaka, Bangladesh, info: www.cems-yarnandfabric.com/difs/

10-12

Yarnex / Texindia Place : Tirupur/ Tamilnadu, info: www.yarnex.in , www.texindiafair.com

15-17

Premier Vision Show Place : Paris, info: www.premiervision.com

23-25

OUTLOOK 2015 Place : Athens, Greece, info : www.edana.org

24-26

TECHTEXIL, INDIA Place : Mumbai, India; info : http://techtextil-india.in.messefrankfurt. com/ October 2015

11-12

International Textile Fair Place : Dubai/ UAE, info: www.internationaltextilefair.com

November 2015 5-6

Nonwovens Innovation Academy Place : Leeds, UK ; info: www.edana.org

10-11

Turkish Nonwovens Symposium Place : Istanbul, info: www.edana.org

12-19

ITMA 2015 Place : Milan/ Italy, info: www.itma.com December 2015

17-19

Feb 2016 7-9

TEMTECH Place: Bhilwara/ Rajasthan, info: www.temtech.in March 2016

10-12

Colombo International Yarn & Fabric Show Place : Colombo/ Sri Lanka, info: http://www.cems-yarnandfabric.com/cifs/

16-18

INDIATEX Place : Mumbai/ India, info: www.textileassociationindia.com June 2016

2-4

NONWOVEN TECH ASIA Place : Mumbai/India, i nfo: www.nonwoventechasia.com October 2016

21-25

ITMA ASIA + CITME 2016 Place : Shanghai/ China, info : www.itmaasia.com December 2016

3-8

34

ITMACH 2015 Place : Bhiwandi / Thane, info : www.itmach.com

INDIA ITME 2016 Place: Mumbai/ India, info: www.india-itme.com

www.textilevaluechain.com

July 2015


BRAND FOCUS

Birla Cellulose leverages the “Liva” proposition at 61st National Garment Fair

Birla Cellulose, Flagship Company of the Aditya Birla Group recently launched Liva, a new age fabric brand in line with consumer needs. Leading Bollywood diva, Kangana Ranaut is the brand ambassador of Liva and had been part of the Liva launch in Mumbai. Made from natural cellulosic fibres using wood pulp, a natural resource, Liva lends fluidity, comfort and fashion quotient in clothing. Birla Cellulose being the world leader in manmade cellulose fibre industry is increasingly engaging with the end consumer directly as well as through leading garment brands in India like Global Desi, Allen Solly Women, Chemistry, Pantaloons, Van Heusen, Fusion Beats, 109F, Lifestyle etc. In the past 4 months, consumers have looked for the Liva tag in garments and experienced the Liva fabrics designed in numerous styles by these brands. In the 61st National Garment Fair organised by CMAI in Mumbai, Birla Cellulose promoted Liva fabrics in line with their SS16 collection. These fabrics had a high ting of innovation in line with consumer trends forecasted by international design consultants. The innovations had unique blends like Modal Wool, Amicor Modal, Cuprammonium Modal, as much as a play of Dobby and Jacquard structures. Birla Cellulose had also launched a unique concept called “Liva Accredited Partner Forum” - (LAPF), of aggregated partners in March 2015. LAPF is a community of Spinners, Fabricators, & Processors who work closely with Birla Cellulose on innovation, quality & technology to deliver Liva fabrics to consumers. Top leaders from the textile industry like Mr. Rahul Mehta, Director-Creative Garments and President-CMAI, Ms. Anita Dongre, Creative Director-AND Designs, Mr. Prashant Agrawal MD – BRFL and many others shared their experiences.

July 2015 www.textilevaluechain.com

In the 61st CMAI exhibition, LAPF was represented by 6 members1. Gokultex Prints, Surat – An innovation leader in natural fabrics, shared its exquisite collection in pure Modal, CuproModal in manifold weaves, designs and prints. 2. Mercury Fabrics, Delhi – Showcased Viscose & Modal knitted prints unique with flora and fauna in brilliant colours as an innovation of Liva for the premium and mass markets. 3. Winsome Yarns, Chandigarh – A premium speciality Spinner and Knitter, they had shared their Spring Summer & Autumn Winter collection of Viscose and Modal knits in 100% and unique blends with super fine cotton, wool, silk, etc. 4. Ujjwal Textiles, Surat – They had pioneered Spun Viscose yarn warp structured fabrics in Surat, uniquely styled through single yarn sized with high end technology. 5. SVG Knits, Mumbai – Ponte De Roma Knits hitherto imported was a major innovation in Liva, in addition to Viscose and Modal blended knit wear. The LAPF is a 250 member’s strong and growing group to be the best in class in the textile industry with support on Design development, Technical innovation, Vendor management, Marketing and Consumer insights offered through a systematic program by Birla Cellulose. Liva fabrics would be made available to quality focused brands across the country. Co-promotion will also be rolled out in a phased manner through Tagging for which a qualification matrix has already been worked out. Liva Fabric has been a vital ingredient in the entire gamut of fashion - Western wear, Skirts, Kurtis, Palazzos etc.

35


BRAND FOCUS

Batliboi and InspirOn join hands to market Motex Stenter and allied products

M/s InspirOn Engineering Pvt. Ltd., manufacturer of MotexR model of Stenters at Ahmedabad and M/s Batliboi Ltd, a multifaceted Engineering organization with offices all over India, have entered into a strategic marketing alliance with effect from 1st of May, 2015. Batliboi will market MotexR and other recently developed ‘InspirOn’ stenters. The alliance is conceived and created to market Motex Stenter, KaPrecR heat recovery unit and later on the SprintonR stenter, the recently developed and more energy efficient version, which will be presented at ITMA 2015. Visitors can look forward to a strong presence of both InspirOn and Batliboi Teams at the ITMA 2015 in Milan. To serve the Corporate Customer with greater intensity and focus, Batliboi was the most logical and perhaps most likely choice for InspirOn as an established textile machinery agency house. On the other hand from Batliboi’s point of view, a well-engineered and energy efficient STENTER was what Batliboi was looking for, to complete their finishing machine product offering. Therefore the idea of a marketing tie-up was initiated between these two respected Business Houses earlier this year which eventually fructified on 1st May, 2015. This also goes very well in line with the Batliboi belief and commitment to promote well-made Indian ‘Products’. The growing demand for stenters in the corporate sector will be serviced by Batliboi with its strong marketing network all over the country and this will be strongly complemented by InspirOn through product quality, precision engineering and efficient country wide spares and service network. The strength of InspirOn’s design and engineering capabilities and the market reach, enthusiasm & reputation for reliability of Batliboi Textile Machinery Group, is a potent combination to ensure success of the alliance.

July 2015 www.textilevaluechain.com

37


er st gi ! Re Now

International Trade Fair for Technical Textiles and Nonwovens

Your Centre of Innovation 24  – 26 September 2015 Hall 6, Bombay Convention & Exhibition Centre, Mumbai

India’s leading trade platform that enables you to Interact and Network with Industry heads from Global Markets For more information please contact: Anisha Britto +91 22 6757 5969 | anisha.britto@india.messefrankfurt.com www. techtextil-india.co.in


MANUFACTURING FOCUS

RESILIENT SUPPLY CHAIN Enhancing Manufacturing Competitiveness.

The Competitiveness of Manufacturing Operations is dependent on many support functions. A company might have a brilliant business strategy but at the same time its operations functions should meet the mark. It’s important to integrate the business strategy to Manufacturing strategy keeping in view the Supply Chain Initiatives to gain operational Excellence. For Manufacturers, along with product development, inventory strategies it’s also important to have a broad view of sourcing and commodity management, Supplier distribution networks and logistics. Therefore, it’s very important for manufacturing to establish a good integration with the Supply Chain for better productivity and market share leadership. As per the research by a BOSTON based Firm, it says companies that excel in supply chain operations perform better in almost every financial measure of success. When supply chain excellence improves demand forecast accuracy, companies have 5% higher profit margin, 15% less inventory, 35% shorter cash to cash cycle times than their peers. Thus, they have better earning per share and better return on assets. A perfect supply chain is something which delivers on time and without errors while documenting and invoicing. The supply chain can be disrupted by both external and internal disruptors. External disruptors can be natural calamities,sudden demand shocks, terrorism,and political unrest and import/export restrictions. Internal disruptors can be manufacturing risk, business risk and planning risk. But few organizations cope far better than others with minimal risk. These companies share a critical train called RESILIENCE. It is the ability of an organization to successfully confront unforeseen situations. In order to control internal disruptors, we have to recognise the sources of internal risks. These can be: • Demand risk: loss of major account, volatility of demand, short life cycles, smaller customer base or innovative competitor. • Supply risk: dependency on key supplier, consolidation in supply market, potential disruption at 2nd tier level. • Process risk: manufacturing yield variability, inflexible process, limited capacity, equipment reliability or lengthy set up time.

July 2015 www.textilevaluechain.com

Mr. Harish Chatterjee VP- Manufacturing

• Network / control risk: poor visibility along pipe line, lack of collaborative planning, proper forecast etc. The reasons behind the risks are: •

Wide spread adoption of lean practises.

Move to off shore manufacturing and sourcing.

Outsourcing in supplier base.

Fragmentation of supply chain ownership.

• Conflicting objectives like Sales want more SKU while manufacturing want bigger batch size etc. Therefore, Supply Chain resilience not only means managing these risks but also being well prepared and positioned than competitors to deal and gain advantage during disruptions. A Resilient Supply chain is characterised by four pillars: Visibility, Flexibility, Collaboration and Control.They are supported by governance structure and key enablers: People, Process and Technology. Resilience Supply Chain is built by a) Policy: Trying to get resilient international standards b) Strategy: Deep Communication and relationship at ground level. c) IT: Building a common data sharing platform. d) Collaboration: Encourage Collaboration of manufacturing with vendors/ job work. Therefore, the key Success factor is the CULTURAL Switch in Corporate and Manufacturing Supply Chains. Distribution of power and empowering employees for better decision making at multiple levels in the hierarchy and the passion to work harder and smarter and quickly come over to normal conditions are two important factors for a cultural shift. “A Resilient Supply Chain is a boost to manufacturing strategy by keeping it prepared during unforeseen disruptions and be ahead of competitors”. q

39


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July 2015


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JULY 2015 ISSUE  

COVER STORY : TUFS REVAMPING WITH RURAL BIAS

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