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(',725,$/ Textile is Low Grade or Luxury Industry???

Textile Industry got again new Textile Minister, Mrs. Smirti Zubin Irani ...!!! We welcome her warm heartedly in our Industry. As a Female, I proud of Mrs. Smriti Irani & personally respect her for achieve              " " 

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      * <try comes from ? From where Garments / clothing Comes from ?? Are you all wearing Plastic or Paper Clothes??? Without Textile Raw material how Fashion Industry will exist ???? We individual as a Textile industry contributors, isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t it our responsibility to make our industry proud and not take all this non sense from other daily media. Media is a strong pillar of society.. This is not media fault..! We as a textile industry contributors taking it very light, accepting whatever given to us, we always beg for subsidies, duty drawback, import subsidies etc. This industry actually lying on government money, government money lying on taxes, other industry, corporate etc. Anyways, to boil down; in this issue, Fashion and retail given the priority. Fashion is dependent on nature, climate which runs on streets, malls, ramps, Bollywood, Hollywood, etc. Lifestyle industry is depending on Fashion category. Fashion is an Attitude, Art & Science with research. Fashion Dynamics are changing so fast by retail trends, market dynamics , art of display and many more. Fashion and Retail is Front end of industry , Consumer see only art of each garment / fashion piece but making behind one style is lot of hard work of researcher, stylist, quality controller, designer, merchandiser, visual merchandiser , sales person, many more. So itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not only Art its pure Science behind it...!!! Respect each style of garment as new innovation..!!! Copy cat is not part of this industry, they are just followers...!! Wish you Happy Business & Live towards your purpose of life..!!!

Ms. Jigna Shah Editor & Publisher

All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the           

and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith.

4

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July 2016


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CONTENT NEWS 11- Government News 12- Association News 37- IIM Heat Stress Study

July 2016 ISSUE EDITORIAL TEAM

COVER STORY : FASHION & RETAIL IS AN ART & SCIENCE 13- Sell More And Sell To More by Mr. Vishnu Govind

Editor & Publisher Ms. Jigna Shah Editorial Advisor Shri V.Y. Tamhane Consulting Editor Mr. Avinash Mayekar Graphic Designer Mr. Anant A. Jogale

19- Innovative Apparel Products Development from Khadi Fabrics by PSG College Professors

INDUSTRY      City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group) Mr. Manohar Samuel President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries Dr. M. K. Talukdar VP, Kusumgar Corporates Mr. Shailendra Pandey VP (Head â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon Mr. Ajay Sharma GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group)

15- Weaving Culture of Mishing Tribe of Assam by Dr. Anshu Sharma

21- Talent Acquisition of Trendy Textiles by Mr. Saurabh Agarwal 23- Retail Management in Textiles by Vishnavi College Professors 26- Interview with Ms. Harpreet Kaur, Young Fashion Designer

ARTICLES 32- Brand Strategy by Mr. Rushin Vadhani 34- Skilled HR, the need of India Textile Industry by Mr. Avinash Mayekar 36- Innovation in Islamic Finance by Mr. Arvind Sinha

SHOW REPORT 31- HGH INDIA 2016 in Mumbai 42- ITTA Seminar in Delhi 44- Non Woven Tech Asia 2016 in Mumbai 48- Show Calendar

COMPANY/ BRAND FOCUS

EDUCATION / RESEARCH

38- Resil : Won National Award

    HOD knitting, SASMIRA Dr. Ela Dedhia Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College Dr. Mangesh D. Teli Professor, Dean ICT Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay Principal Scientist & Head MPD     Retired Scientist, CIRCOT

39- ATE : Savio Customer Day

CONSULTANT / ASSOCIATION Mr. Shivram Krishnan Senior Textile Advisor Mr. G. Benerjee Management & Industrial Consultant Mr. Uttam Jain Director PDEXCIL; VP of Hindustan Chamber of Commerce Mr. Shiv Kanodia Sec General, Bharat Merchant Chamber Mr. N.D. Mhatre Dy. Director, ITAMMA

8

39- Textest AG : New Product Launch 40- Boalamo Textiles 41- Cadini / Siy  #=  $  >  Q   <

MARKET REPORT 27- Trend Forecast by Premier Vision 31- Fashion Blogger Information 46- Fashion Retail Scenario in India : Trends & Market Dynamics by TECHNOPAK

Advertiser Index Back Page: Raymond Back Inside: Boalamo Front Inside: Raysil Page 3: Empitex Page 5: SGS Innovation Page 6& 49: Klassic Fabrics Page 7: Parekh Agencies " U[

\] ^

Page 10: Premier Fabrics

Page 50: Sanjay Plastic Page 51: Vora Associate & Amith Garments Page 52: India ITME 2016 Page 53: Shreeram Textiles Page 54: Tech Textile Symposium Page 55: RSWM

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July 2016


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*2971(:6    ! "   # $%'  Smt. Smriti Zubin Irani took over as the new Union Textiles Minister today. Smt. Irani was serving as the Union Minister for Human Resource Development before taking over as the Union Textiles Minister. Speaking to media persons on the occasion, the new Minister thanked the Honourable Prime Minister Shri Narendra Modi for placing her in charge of a sector that employs the largest number of people, next only to agriculture. She said that the sector has a lot of unrealized potential in terms of skilling and employment, and that it can play a very important role in scaling up the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Make In Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; vision of the Prime Minister. She noted that the textiles sector provides employment to a large number of women,     =     ing taken under the leadership of the Prime Minister to engage with the industry and help increase the exports of the sector. Citing that the weavers are the foundation of the sector, Smt. Irani assured that the Government would strive to help them to the maximum possible extent. Speaking of the

huge opportunity for skilling, the Minister said that besides improving the skills of the people already engaged in the sector, she would also take steps to bring more young    $  \ = " ' 

the Honâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ble Prime Minister for allocating her a portfolio which is of great importance to the rural economy of the nation. She added that she has extended her best wishes to the new HRD Minister Shri Prakash Javadekar, who she said has assured her that he will take forward the initiatives taken by the HRD Ministry in the past two years. She said that she has congratulated her predecessor Shri Santosh Kumar Gangwar for his

contribution to the Ministry of Textiles, and has thanked him for assuring his support for her new assignment. The Minister of State (Textiles), Shri Ajay Tamta too, who took charge as Minister earlier today, greeted the Cabinet Minister in her chamber, on the occasion.

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Shri Ajay Tamta, the new Minister of State, Textiles is a Lok Sabha MP from Almora constituency, Uttarakhand, and a member of the Bharatiya Janata Party. Prior to his election to the 16th Lok Sabha, Shri Tamta has served as a member of the Uttarakhand Legislative Assembly, from 2007 to 2012 and again from 2012 to 2014. He has also served as a Minister in the Government of Uttarakhand, as Cabinet Minister during 2008 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 2009 and as MoS during 2007 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 2008. As a parliamentarian, Shri Tamta has been a member of the Committee on Welfare of Scheduled Castes and Scheduled Tribes since August 2014, and a member of Standing Committee on Human Resource Development and of Consultative Committee, Ministry of Water Resources, River De-

July 2016

velopment and Ganga Rejuvenation since September 2014. The new Minister holds an Intermedi `$=  \= = {    

interest in the rich variety of geographical landscapes, with a particular fascination for the mountainous region, which he believes has tremendous potential for mining, growing medicinal plants and promoting tourism. As such, he has been rendering his contribution through social service for the development of the region. Shri Tamta will be turning 44 years of age this month. He is married to Smt. Sonal Tamta and has one daughter. He resides in Dr. B.D. Marg, New Delhi, and can be reached at the email address ajay.tamta@ sansad.nic.in. Shri Ajay Tamta took charge

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as Minister of State, Ministry of Textiles today. Shri Tamta is a Lok Sabha MP from Almora constituency, Uttarakhand, and a member of the Bharatiya Janata Party. Prior to his election to the 16th Lok Sabha, Shri Tamta has served as a member of the Uttarakhand Legislative Assembly, from 2007 to 2012 and again from 2012 to 2014. He has also served as a Minister in the Government of Uttarakhand, as Cabinet Minister during 2008 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 2009 and as MoS during 2007 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 2008. Later in the day, Smriti Zubin Irani took charge as the Union Textiles Minister. The two Ministers greeted each other in the Cabinet Ministerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s chamber, and also interacted with members of the media fraternity.

11


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$%' @ (;;'   The special package for textile and apparel sector was approved today by the Union Cabinet under the Chairmanship of Prime Minister Shri Narendra Modi. The package is a strategic decision that would strengthen and empower the Indian textile and apparel sector by improving its cost competitiveness in the global market.       "$== 

to its potential for social transformation through women empowerment; since 70% of the workforce in the garment industry are women, majority of the new jobs created are likely to go to women. An elated Ashok G Rajani, Chairman, AEPC said, â&#x20AC;&#x153;The apparel industry thanks the Honâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ble Prime Minister and the textile minister, Shri Santosh Gangwar for a very comprehensive package that has not only

addressed the industryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s needs, but also the employment generation needs of the country, that this industry can address.The =    <   }~}

our competing countries has been duly addressed. The refund of employers contribution of EPF, Additional incentives under ATUFS , enhanced duty drawback coverage with drawback for domestic duty paid inputs even when fabrics are imported under Advance Authorization Scheme, etc, are support that will help the industry gain cost competitivenessâ&#x20AC;?. He further added that, â&#x20AC;&#x153;the labor reforms will not only help the industry, but also the workmen as it encourages new employment, ensures better take home salaries for lower income workers and puts contractual workers at par with permanent

workman in terms of working hours, wages, allowed and other statutory dues. The industry is gearing up the US$ 20 bn target set for this year. With a decline in exports for   $   

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markets still recording negative growth and the Brexit uncertainty looming large, the package is timely and gives the industry hope for revival.â&#x20AC;? Mr. Lalit Thukral, M/s Twenty Second Miles expressed gratitude towards the government for coming up with these changes, he said, â&#x20AC;&#x153;I believe this is an excellent policy overhaul by the government. The sector is in dire need of such changes and would appreciate if the government brings about such changes on a regular basis. Trade will grow unabated with such policies.â&#x20AC;?

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   ;;   * < $%'  =  ) In a statement issued by Mr R K Dalmia, Chairman of The Cotton Textiles Export PromotionCouncil (TEXPROCIL) has welcomed the cabinet approval for a special package for labour intensive Apparel sector envisaging higher growth in Export of Apparel products and job creation over the next three years. However, he expressed deep concern for ignoring to consider Home Textile sector in the special package, which is equally labour intensive industry at par with Apparel sector. In particular, manufacturing of bed-linen requires more number of workers in making each piece of the product.

He emphasized that Home Textiles sector is also equally labour intensive as Apparel manufacturing. The process is the same i.e. adding value after cutting the fabric and "   =   =  $ished products. Extending the present spe= ='"   $  {  ^  =

will not only lead to substantial increase in employment in rural India but will also augment export of Home Textile products. This in turn will bring about higher fabric consumption and capacity building in the downstream industry resulting in inclusive growth in the entire Textile and Apparel val-

ue chain. Mr Dalmia, while appreciating the governmentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s decision in acknowledging the need to support Apparel sector, stated that the Fabric and Home Textile industry are ignored in the special package in spite of several representations and justifying presentations made by TEXPROCIL. Considering these facts, Mr Dalmia has appealed to the government to kindly consider treating all the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;cut and sewâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; products (including Home Textiles and Made-ups) for granting ben $ 

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ment generation and promotion of export, at par with Apparel products.

$ - 3 " # "' 4 ! )5 (! The Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI), the Apex Chamber of the Garment Industry of the Country, has whole-heartedly Welcomed the Package announced by the Central Government today for the Industry. In a Statement issued here , Rahul Mehta, President of CMAI thanked the Honorable Prime Minister and Shri Santosh Kumar Gangwar, the Honorable Minister of State for Textiles ( Independent Charge ) for removing some of the serious irritants that had been pulling back the Countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Garment Industry for a long time. â&#x20AC;&#x153; The Announcements made today have Unshackled our Garment Industry and the Results will be evident not only by way of Additional Employment Generation but also Additional Exportsâ&#x20AC;?, he said.

12

Shri Mehta said that the Inclusion of State Level Taxes in the Computation of Duty Drawback will address a long standing Demand of the Industry, and will provide a Major Relief to the Exporting Segment. The EPF Reforms - Government bearing the whole PF burden of the Industry and making PF Optional for Employees earning less than Rs.15000 per month - will help the Industry as well as the Workers, he added. Increasing the Overtime Cap is another       $   

and Employees. Referring to the Provision introduced for Fixed Time Employment, Shri Mehta pointed out that this is another Suggestion that the Industry has been making for a long time, and the Provision will help in Seasonal

Adjustments in the Workforce required by the Units. Shri Mehta also Welcomed the Increase in the TUFS Subsidy by 10% and the provision for Drawback on Garment Exports from Fabrics Imported Duty-free, to the extent of Duty paid inputs used in such Exports. Shri Mehta stated that in overall terms, what the Government has Announced today is a very Helpful Policy Package for the Garment Industry, and the targets for Employment Generation and Investments envisaged in the Announcement are Achievable. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Prime Minister and Textiles Minister deserve our Genuine Thanks and Compliments for these New Initiativesâ&#x20AC;? Mr. Mehta Concluded.

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July 2016


COVER STORY

SELL MORE AND SELL TO MORE Mr. Vishnu Govind

Brand Consultant & Startup Mentor Founder- Add Valorem Consulting LOYALTY AND FASHION RETAILING What’s your favorite brand? This is a question many of us have been asked multiple times in the past. Whether we are talking about the clothing store we shop frequently from, or the car we own or the one we would like to upgrade to, or the mobile phone that you feel is just right for you, we all have some brands we love more than others. Love for brands could manifest as aspiration or ownership. Luxury brands, for instance, are desired by many and owned by only a few. The prime intention of brand building initiatives from businesses would involve driving awareness, or changing perceptions, or increase usage or influencing other such parameters or a combination of some of these aspects. Whichever way we look at it, they all correlate positively to the need to get more sales. For fashion brands, such initiatives are around influencing how you are positioned in the consumer’s mind, getting more walk-ins to your stores and thereby increasing sales. I have seen a tendency in many retail-oriented businesses to delink their ‘brand’ initiatives from their ‘product’ initiatives. This is a strategy that is fraught with danger since the coherence in the brand offering will be compromised. In categories like FMCG, where Brand Management practices are very evolved, there are processes that control this. There is a product innovation pipeline that is aligned with the brand objectives and it is the specific SKUs that need to be sold in large quantities. In the business of fashion, the situation is different. Here, the business runs by launching collections what have a high number of garment styles in different categories like shirts, trousers and others.Therefore it is a challenge to ensure that product development plans are in sync with the brand identity. While there are products and looks that are typical to a brand, it is challenging to carry a brand signature across large number of designs. Also, there are some designs that are so much in trend that you might find similar products in different brand collections. Brands cannot escape from this reality since these styles are in demand and they need to be catered to, else your customer can go to other stores. So there are significant design management challenges around balancing the typical looks of the brand and the looks that are in trend. This, to me, is a major Brand Identity challenge in the fashion space and this is where the best of brands excel by getting the perfect mix for their customers. Loyalty- A Misnomer? Strong fashion brands stand for some values and they build their business around them. As customers, when do we say that we are loyal to a brand? When we go again and again to that brand’s store? If we ask the people in key management positions in these businesses, this is the answer we will get- this is how we use the word ‘loyalty’ in retail-oriented businesses. With organized retail booming in India, we also witnessed increasing efforts on the part of retailers to get maximum mileage out of their customers, through organized as well as not-so-organized initiatives to reward frequent customers. Loyalty Management is today, an important part of fashion retail. Literally, the word loyalty indicates a strong allegiance to a certain thing; the way many retailers treat their loyalty programs, they are built around reward points that can be redeemed which can be considered as an indirect form of discount-

July 2016

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ing. So when we lure a customer with rewards and freebies, can we say that were are driving genuine loyalty? In this modern era of online shopping where mobile apps bring high streets to your finger tips, a lot of stores are within reach and we can search different stores for the same product and easily find out which one of them offers the best deal. I am not judging whether this trend is right or wrong, the consumer can decide what is best for him or her, the point being made here is the fact that the term loyalty, can be seen as a misnomer, maybe ‘Rewards’ or ‘Membership’ can be better ways of describing such initiatives. While I thought it is interesting to say this, let us not get lost in semantics and focus on what fashion brands try to achieve through these programs. The Changing Landscape Let us take a look at how loyalty or rewards programs have evolved. It is generally agreed that one of the earliest such organized initiatives was the S&H Green Stamp Program that originated around a century ago. As per this program, customers received stamps as they made purchases from participating merchants; they are then glued to pages in booklets and can be redeemed from stores when they reach a certain value, just like alternate currency. Another well-known initiative in the early days of loyalty programs was General Mills’ Betty Crocker Points Program in which customers collected points and redeemed them against kitchenware from a catalogue. In the early 1980s American Airlines made use of computerized databases and created their Frequent Flyer Program. Another program that is considered iconic is the one from Tesco that uses data analysis very effectively to drive transactions, long before such a practice became a hygiene factor. The membership card used to be the signature element of rewards programs till a few years back. With the impact of technology, such programs started taking a paperless route and this phase saw a huge jump in the practice of tracking the details of customers and their shopping patterns, among retail brands. The mobile number is now your unique identifier, from a retail-shopping context. Key Success Factors There are some aspects which I feel are golden rules as far as rewards programs are concerned. i) Loyalty program should be about data capture; the retailer need to capture as many customers in the system as possible, higher the percentage of transactions that come from customers who have enrolled for the program, the better it is. ii) However, rewards need not be as spread out as information capture is, there has to be certain threshold of business before a customer avails rewards from the retailer. iii) The higher the business from a customer, the more his rewards should be. For instance, if a customer who makes an annual purchase of Rs 30000 can get 3% of it as rewards, it is only fair that a customer who buys Rs 100000 in the same period gets 5% as rewards. iv) It is always easier to increase reward commitments to customers, but it is tough to reduce the same. Therefore a cautious start is advisable. Even in terms of number of tiers in the structure, it is a good idea to start simple and increase as you get

13


&29(56725< structure, it is a good idea to start simple and increase as you get more idea on frequencies and transaction sizes. v) The use of data for driving business growth is most important. From the purchase patterns that the program throws up, we can develop schemes that drive frequency of purchase, complimentary product sales, average transaction value etc. vi) Be cautious in not making wrong conclusions on the impact of schemes as part of the program, For instance, if customers    =  =       =  =   

some purchases from them, we also need to keep a control sample  =      =        

=    '      = Possibilities for Apparel Apparel brands in India have leveraged rewards programs to gratify customers, drive incremental sales and get customer insights in a meaningful manner in recent years. Take for instance a menswear brand, for illustrative purposes. If we track purchases for a certain period of time, like a year, we can get information on customers who purchase only shirts or only trousers, or only cotton chinos, or only denims, for example. If there is a category that logically seems to suit a customerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s needs but he is not purchasing from you, it means that he is possibly buying them from another re \= =  =  "       = "   

we could track the success rate of such schemes. It is also a good idea to know why they go to your competing stores, letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not forget that youhave his contact details with you!Think of another possibility - if x% of customer shop thrice a year, and y% shop only twice   ^    " "$=    =    

that trigger a third visit for those customers who shop only twice. A customer who buys only linen clothing can be sent personalized mailers whenever a new premium range of linen clothing hits the stores. One genuine test of loyalty towards a brand is in whether

you are willing to use its products across categories including accessories like footwear, belts, wallets etc. As the category matures in a market, there are the strong brands that should lead this way and become truly iconic names that people like to associate them    <   =   "

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core categories that should be positively predisposed to trying out   = "   "    Â&#x2030;    "  = 

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=  Mobile Platforms Today the world of mobile apps is bringing in a lot of new possibilities for consumers and retailers alike. The new buzzword today is â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;platformâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;! If we look at the startup eco- system in the Asian markets, there are very exciting initiatives in their early stages, many of which are retail platforms which bring customers and retailers together. In terms of their USPs they vary from one another- some are unique payment solutions, some facilitate easy checkout, while  

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spent in the store, there are loyalty aggregators who help you manage all your membership programs in a single app- a far cry from the days when it was a matter of prestige to carry aspirational membership cards that make your wallet bulky. The common thing here is the information that is getting captured at the back end, including the behavior of your customers outside your retail net '     = = "        Â&#x20AC;

 

big data oriented business models. The true strength of a retail membership program today is data. It always was, just that its application has moved to an altogether       %  '   "    ics tools at our disposal now, brands are raising the bar in terms or customer engagement. Today when you say you know your customers, the expectations are much higher that it used to be a few years back.

= '    ! 5 $   " ) 

14

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July 2016


&29(56725<

Weaving Culture of Mishing Tribe of Assam Z ([\]^ ]_Z`_ Head and Associate Professor Department of Textile Science and Apparel Design SNDT Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s University, Mumbai

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Assam is a land of various tribes and communities located over the entire span of the state. These tribes bear huge cultural and lin"=  =           Q  

prominent tribes in the upper Assam is the Mising tribe. Mising (or formerly Miris) tribe comprises of ethnic people inhabiting mainly the Dhemaji, North Lakhimpur, Tinsukhia, Dibrugarh, Sibsagar, Jorhat and Golaghat districts of Assam. Also many of the tribe are settled in various districts of Arunachal Pradesh. One of the biggest river islands in the world â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Majuliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; is mainly inhabited by the Mishing people.

Mishing tribe of Assam

The Mishings is one of the major sections of the plain tribes of Assam. Originally the Mishings were hill tribe like Akkas, Dapha Â&#x160;   Â&#x2039;"Â&#x2C6; Â&#x2021;=

=    Â&#x2039; Â&#x2C6;  "  

them evidently by the plain people. The mishing, extract form and  =     "    

 

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applicable word to the community. Mishing itself explain Mi = Yasvng or Mi + Ansvng = Misvng. Mi represents human being. Yasvng represent good, white and Ansvng represent good, calm and peace loving. Therefore, peace loving people on the other hand the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Miriâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; which is an Assamese word signifying a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;go betweenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; from circumstances. The colourful ethnic group is now plain tribe of Assam.

< '  c ' Weaving is the exclusive preserve of the Mising women who start their training in this craft before they reach their teens. They also have a good knowledge of natural dyes. They weave cotton jackets, towels, endi (shawls), thick loincloths and sometimes

July 2016

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shirts for their men folk. They also weave ege (skirt-like garments), ri:bi(rectangular cloth with narrow stripes wrapped over the lower garment from bodice to knees), seleng gasor (fabric occasionally worn instead of a ri:bi), riya (a long scarf) and nĂ­seg (a cloth tied over the shoulder for carrying babies). They also weave the gamocha, the traditional cotton scarf and Assamese cultural symbol that are bestowed on honoured guests visiting the village. Cotton thread was readily available the Mising used to grow their own cotton and spun the yarn themselves. They also use some silk yarns, but sparingly. They used to use endi yarn obtained from silk worms fed on the leaves of castor-oil plants however they later learned the use of the golden muga (silk obtained from worms fed on the som tree) and the white paat (from worms fed on mulberry leaves) from neighbouring communities.  "    Â&#x20AC;   =$=

  

 

exquisite handlooms, especially their mirizen shawls and blankets, and they reinvent their traditional diamond pattern in countless weaves using their favourite colours orange, yellow, green, black and red. The Mishing also make a very special textile called gadu, a blan'    ]             <

is extremely intricate and time-consuming work. The warp is cotton spun into thick and strong yarn and the weft is spun into soft yarn, =      =   =     ] \   =lar form of weaving is fast disappearing due to the ready availability of inexpensive blankets in the market. Handloom is the most popular traditional industry of Mishing tribe. Handloom, an ancient art is a constant source of mental peace, equilibrium and revelation to both one who perceives it. The handlooms in our country were in a manner reverenced as an important part of our rich cultural heritage. In India almost all handloom have a history which relates them to certain religious rituals and social customs, making them an inherent part of its culture. There are clear indications of cultural awareness about handloom products. The North East of India is like a Variegated patch work quilt. A multiplicity of tribes and tribal groups each with its own distinct culture in habitat this region. Every tribe has three or more distinctive clothes of its own. An important aspect of the weaving is that the designers are a result of a process of evolution. They are not just something created individualistically by the weavers but have  =  "$==  ^  "        otal role in social and economic life of the Indian people through out the age. The art of weaving made the village society a self contained one, which is characteristic of Assam society too. The social functioning of Mishing is based on the code of personnel relation and duties handed down from generation to generation. The people of this land do not take execution of this craft as a compulsion but a sacred duty. The Mishing loves weaving of textiles appears as

15


&29(56725< a replica of the cosmic process. The art of weaving has much more developed in Assam as compared to other parts of India. In Assam weaving is a entirely the work of women. Weaving is a part of their domestic duties. In fact          Â&#x2020;$=   "  

handloom weaving is practically monopolized by women not from the idea of economic necessity but also from the sense of social customs. Weaving is an indispensable part of Mishing women. Most of the Mishing of the rural area are expert in spinning and weaving is practiced by both unmarried and married women. Costumes whatever might be its origin serve as a symbol of role and status of the individuals in society and it obtain for the wearer a reward 

="   $= Â       

in humanity are a marked characteristic of any culture. Culture is an important adjunct of ones personality. Costumes of a community or a nation are inherent aspect of its cultural heritage, a mirror of the time and the people of that community. The tribal costumes bring up a picture of life of the community. The Mishing tribe of Assam plains has a very colourful textile tradition. The textiles are produced mainly to meet the requirement of the household. The mishing girls produced almost all the clothes required by them after marriage before they get married and continue to do so.

Traditional Costumes The Mishing costumes are very beautiful and embellished with intricate motifs and designs as well as very colourful too. The dress of the Mishing can be divided into two distinct types: (i) general dress and (ii) special dress for festivals and ceremonial functions. The costumes used by Mishing for daily use are simple. The dresses of the men are similar to non tribal Assamese. A simple white dhoti (ugon) or sometimes a long colored dumer (towel) and a shirt (galuk) are the costumes of the men for daily use. The costumes of the women are also simple but divided into two pieces of garment. They generally wear a skirt (mesanam age) covering the part from waist to the knee. The upper piece (gasong or gero) fastened above the breast falling along with the skirt. Occasionally, a blouse is seen to cover the upper part of the body.

The costumes for particular occasion are the special product of their loom. In this dresses, they are the mixture of various colours, e.g. Red, black, green, yellow are common. On the special occasion, a man wear a shirt (Mibu galuk) over his usual dress and a dumer (towel) is a must along with a turban (paguri). The dresses on special occasion are used in such a way, so that, it looks like a Gam or leader. The dress of women is same as they used daily but the dresses for festival and function are more coloured and decorated. The plain dress without colour and decoration are generally not used in festivals and rituals. Women are fond of various types of ornaments. Ear and neck ornaments (kentumaduli), chains (tadok),      =   Â&#x2018;'" Â&#x2019; " Â&#x2018; ='= Â&#x2019;  

(necklace ), kardoni (bangles ), sondrong (locket ), lv:tog (necklace ) turiang (ear ring) etc.

Fibres and yarns used

 $    =       "

tribes of Assam are cotton and silk. Cotton is also grown in rural areas of Mishingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s villages. However, the amount of cotton produc   Â&#x2021;=  

 ="  "    =  fore they used to purchase cotton yarns from markets. The silk produced in Assam, generally Muga silk (Antheracea assama ww), mulberry (Bombyx linnacus) and eri (Philosamia recini B) are commonly produced. Sericulture has been practiced for a long time. Assam enjoys the world monopoly over production of muga silk and eri silk. The eri culture is mostly practiced among Mishing tribe of Assam. Silk weaving is a special feature of Assam. It plays an important part in the socio-economic life of the people in specialized weaverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s villages of Assam.

3  * q  )

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and silk. To ptoduced good quality yarns for weaving they follow the following processes.

I. Cotton   =  =     =    $  Â&#x201D; 1. Ginning- it is the process of removing the seeds from cotton pods. This is carried out by using a craft which is made up of wood. Â&#x2022; Â  " Â&#x2013;  = "   = "  =  ]='"  od where a bow is used which is made up of bamboo tied with a strong rope. 3. Spinning- Spinning means giving twist to the yarn by using a spinning craft which is also made up of wood and bamboo.

II. Silk To produced silk yarn the following process are involved â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 1. Cooking: - It is process of removing sericin from eri cocoon by boiling in water along with alkali for a period of 5- 10 minutes. 2. Spinning- Spinning means giving twist to the yarns by using primitive spinning craft. Spinning and weaving are also undertaken by the rearers generally for their own use. Spinning of eri is done in spindles-Whorl (letai), which is made up of wooden or bamboo stick below which a circular disc is inserted by making a hole in middle of the wooden circular disc. Spinning is only done by women folk, including young girls, even while they are in walk around and "$   

  

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unique feature in Assam. Eri silk is used mainly to weave shawls, used in winter. It is also used to weave a few other items for day to day dressing.

Traditional Mishing costumes

Front view of Mibu Galuk

16

|

Back view of Mibu Galuk

Dyeing The use of wealth of colours in handloom products

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July 2016


&29(56725< is a unique feature of the textile tradition of Assam. The dyeing is    "        '   

roots etc. The common types of natural mordants like common salt, silica (Terminalina citrine) were used The natural dyes like Lac (Cocus lacca), Achugach (Morinda augustifolia), Halodhi (Cucurma longa), tepor (Garcinia Xanthocymus) etc are also used. But now, the Mishing women also use vat or synthetic dyes for dyeing. Prior   " $     Â&#x201C;     

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boiling them in water or by immersing them in for water whole night and then dry sunlight. The dyed yarns then undergoes for the other process like winding and bobbining i.e, preparation for warping in loom. This is done with the help of a winding machine called Cheriki and ugha by using jotor (Charkha).

The indigenous design of the Mishings is called Ghai- yamik designs. These depict the excellent capability of Mishing weavers  

"   "   =    

=     " 

Tapum Ege (Eri Shawl) and Pe-Charpi-pekok are good example of traditional items which is very intricate designs are used. These are highly cherished item in the respective tribal communities. Ege is another costume worn by women to cover the lower part of the body from waist to the ankle. The most common colour used is black. On the black base ornamentation are done yellow, red, and white. The traditional designs is named as Ghai yamik small buties   Â&#x20AC;

Â&#x201C;"        ] =   ranged in geometrical order above the main border design. This d

Types of Loom used The Mishing community uses two types of looms. The Loin loom and Throw shuttle loom. Now they use Fly Shuttle loom, Jaccquard loom, Dobby loom and in some industries among Mishing community the power loom is also found to be in used. Gadoos a type of blanket are woven in loin loom. Loin loom is also mused to weave bags pillow covers etc. This looms is very simple, portable and convenient to erect and dismantle. The compact texture of the cloth woven and its intricate design are the most important factors for which the loin loom has still not lost its popularity. It is a part and parcel of the tribal textile tradition. The loom has no frame or upper structure, but it consists of two vertical bamboo poles kept horizontally. A few pieces of stout bamboo and wooden rods of varying thickness with a wooden beating sword is used as accessories of the loom. The throw shuttle loom is the most common and traditional loom used by all communities in Assam. A crude type throw shuttle loom has been found among Mishing tribe, four wooden posts

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   $^  $    "     

wrap are set to the frame just above the ground level. The weaver sits on the bench attached towards the wrap-beam to operate the treadles, but no weaving belt is used as in case of loin loom. This loom is found comfortable compared to contemporary loin loom. However, being a traditional loom, it is highly valued by the Mish"Â&#x2C6;         =  "$==  =  

this loom and its inheritance passes to her daughter. The accessories required for the existing throw shuttle loom are very simple and can easily be made out of indigenous materials, mostly bamboo and wood. As such, it is easily accessible to the rural folk of Assam. The other parts of the loom are the wrap and cloth beams, reed, treadles, temple, shuttle, etc. Adoption of new technology and use of improved looms in household weaving is still rare in Assam especially among Mishing tribe. The archaic type of loom cannot be the basis for commercial production.

Motifs and designs

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Ege Gasor with ghai yamik design

Yapapacha traditional motif designed on a particular costume known as Ribi Gacheng. It is an indispensable part of unmarried girl. It is always woven out of cotton yarns and designed with stripes of red, black, and white. The stripes are widely distributed though out the body at regular interval. A cross border design with zig-zag lines and diamond is woven in the pallau and is spread all over of the cloth.

Gasor of Mishing

Nature played a vital role in inspiring the folk and tribal artisans to reproduce its many beauties in their crafts. The handloom fabrics of Assam are noted for their various indigenous artistic designs. The ornamentation is done on the loom itself. The designs are brought out by means of employing an additional layer of dyed yarns based on the ground materials. These extra yarns for design   ] 

   ='"       

traditional technique is called the extra weft technique. Not only the motifs and designs, colours too play a vital role in the textile tradition of Mishing tribe of Assam.

July 2016

epicts the excellent capability of Mishings         forms in a rich border design. Mishing Ege and Gasor

|

tribe Ribi Gacheng

Another important costume of Mishings is â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;geroâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, which is used ony by married women only. Based on design used it is named as kem- nam gero or ki- nam gero. It is woven in white with bold design of about 40 to 50 cm width is red, black and redin centre of the cloth. Another gero named Charuchamang gero is also a continuing example of traditional textile of Mishing. It is woven specially to carry baby, tied at back by women while working or traveling.

17


&29(56725<

kem- nam gero

|

Charuchamang gero

These gero were woven with care and kept ready by a girl before her marriage. But this rich and traditional textile item is being gradually getting replaced by plain cloths. The plain version is called nichek. Another highly priced textile items woven out of eri silk is Tapum gachor ( eri shawl), used in winter. The border of the shawl   "    ' ]  

"    

lines are woven in side borders and cross borders in brown and maroon colours in the shawl. The designs used are worked by weavers from the old scraps of designs or from a separate design catalogue. In olden days designs were worked on banana leaves. Since banana leaf is not durable the design was subsequently worked on the thick sheath of areca plam tree. The designs are woven on a warp  =     $  =' 

=" "   

pick of the designs.

Geometrical design | Floral motif arranged on geometrical order

     

Geometrical design used only in Shawl | Geometrical design used only in Gero

Changes in the motifs and designs from traditional geometric to recently adopted innovative and vivid patterns is noted in some cases since the innovative category of motifs does not contain symbolic meaning as in the case with traditional motifs, the motifs combination also become non symbolic in nature. It is of interest to note that, among the study communities only the Mishing have retained the traditional motifs and designs. A harmonious blending of traditional designs and colours are still being maintained and       "  ^    % 

 

and large switch over to the contemporary designs of more vivid and symbolic nature, the Mishing have been more conservative and they still use their traditional geometric designs having symbolic meaning. %  ] =    =       

     

  "      = porary textile items which include the Mekhela-chaddar, shirt, wrapper, shawl, sari, pillow cover, napkin, table cloth, salwar-kameez, jacket ,rug, bed cover, drapery materials etc. The instinct in human being since earliest time is to study his surroundings and as such has consciously and unconsciously absorbed a great deal in   =     =     "    $ 

his inner yearning to express it in visual form. A gradual disappearance of handloom weaving as a household craft has been marked in recent years. But the craft of weaving in Assam still continues, albeit with the changes incorporated in it, as a living craft and as an integral part of tribal and non tribal cultures. Moreover, it provides an important prop to the rural economy. The practice of producing oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s future post marital requirements in cloths is still in existence as an element of Mishing culture. This helped keeping textile tradition alive. The growing cultural aware   =  =$= "   ^     portant role for symbolic elements in the projection of respective cultural identities. Use of certain textile item called Ribi Gacheng as =  ]" 

 Â&#x20AC; =" =} =       thy. Thus the handloom textiles have played an important role in the upliftment of socio-economic scenario of rural Assam in great extent.

                for creating designs colour combination

18

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July 2016


&29(56725<

! (;;' 3   ';

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}Â&#x2014;Â&#x2DC;Â&#x2122;Â&#x161;[ Â&#x203A;Â&#x2122;Â&#x153;Â&#x2DC;Â?Â?Â&#x17E;Â&#x2DC;Â&#x2122;Â&#x; Â&#x2014;Â&#x2DC;Â&#x2122;Â&#x161; ¥¢Â&#x2014; £¤Â&#x2DC;ÂĽÂŚÂ&#x2014;£§Œ ¢¨ Â&#x160;¤¤Â&#x2DC;ÂĽÂŁÂ&#x161; £¥Š§¢Â&#x161;¢ Â? \Â&#x201A;

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(  Innovations in apparel and fashion product play a vital role in $"  ^ =   =      

apparel and fashion products are happening in many ways such as changes of styles, value addition by using with new textile materials  $ 

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         el products by using khadi cotton fabric. Since khadi is having a rich tradition and unique texture due to hand spun yarn. The value added apparel product were developed by analyzing the existing styles of menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ,womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wear and new styles is developed based on current trends. Value addition is given by hand painting, printing, and surface ornamentation techniques. Fusion kind of design is also developed by placing khadi fabric in selective panels in '  "   Â       $    



is investigated and reported. The results of comfort properties shows better from khadi fabric due to low fabric yield and inherent nature of hand spun cotton yarn . The results of subjective evalu

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retailer perspective show good potential by developing innovation in khadi fabrics. Keywords : Khadi ,casuals, Warli, Madhubani Printing and Embroidery

found on the garment was only 34%.. in our study conducted . Totally we have developed 10 garments styles each garment we have = 

     "      ' broidery and kantha embroidery, application of this method is carried out by using screen printing, block printing, hand embroidery, machine embroidery and painting, the details of apparel styles developed were mentioned in the table 1.Important fabric test like " ='"  

   

  

and water vapour permeability were tested based on international standard testing procedure. These garments were constructed by using single needle, over ='  ] ='  " =  = "

=

  

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putting the garment in the standardized dress forms. The subjective evaluation is also carried out by taking the opinion from the wearerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s perspective. The rating scale is also developed by choosing the ranking (Ranking: 1- Poor, 2 - Average, 3-Good, 4-Very Good, 5-Excellent).The opinion is taken by considering aesthetic look of  "  

 

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taken photo prints by displaying in the dress forms and mannequinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s.

Table 1 Garment Style details

~ !   Khadi or khaddar is the term conventionally used in North and Central India to refer the varieties of coarse cotton cloth hand woven using hand spun yarn. This was the cloth commonly worn by peasant and artisan groups in pre-industrial India. It was made from locally grown cotton which would be harvested by peasants and laborers, spun by local women and woven into cloth by men from various specialist weavers. The precise technology involved in the production of khadi would vary from region to region, as would the techniques used for its decoration (dyeing, embroidery, printing etc.) Although hand spun hand woven cotton cloth of this kind was common throughout India, khadi entered nationalist vocabulary and the cloth became a key visual symbol of indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s struggle from colonial rule. Characteristics of khadi fabric are cool in summer and warm in winter due to soft feel and tactile property of the fabric. It is the only fabric where the texture is so unique that no two fabrics will be absolutely identical. Khadi is also an eco- friendly fabric as such the process involves no environmental pollution.. Since Innovation plays critical important in the apparel and fashion industry  $  =  '  <   '       

developing innovative fashion products by using khadi fabric. The $   = 

    

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investigated and reported 2. Materials and Methodology To verify the prevalence of innovation in khadi garments a survey has been carried out by visiting in leading apparel retail show rooms. The percentage of value addition given for khadi fabric

July 2016

www.textilevaluechain.com

Style code

Garment style

A B C D

Mandarin collar top Slim fit shirt Over coat with ruffles A-line frock with panels

Target group

E

Slim fit shirt with Mahatma Gandhi images - screen printing

Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wear

F

Slim fit with khadi mixed

Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wear

G H

Polo collar t-shirt Slim fit with Kasuti Embroidery

Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wear Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wear

I

Knife Pleated long top with Warli reen and hand block printing

Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wear

J

Kurtha with pleats with Kantha Embroidery

Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wear

Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wear

Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wear Childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wear Childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wear

' (  

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;; ') The khadi fabric were tested for various fabric properties the results were mentioned in the table 2. The comfort property test results shows that wetability time takes longer due to the presence of starch content in the fabric , however the water   " ='       gitudinal wicking height is increased gradually form 3min to 5 min  

        =  



  ability results calculated for one day shows better for all the fabric

19


&29(56725< and there is good correlation in wicking height and water vapour permeability rate.

 '

S.no 1 2

Properties Fabric yield, g/m2 Warp count, NE

Brown 130 20

White 57 60

Pink 130 20

3

Weft count, NE

20

50

20

We have successfully completed our work by developing innovative apparel and fashion products by using khadi fabric. The Sandal conclusion of our work is summarized below. 135 â&#x20AC;˘ In our initial market survey carried out in the leading apparel 20 show room, the value addition given to the khadi fabric is very    

$" 20

4 5

EPI(ends per inch) PPI(picks per inch)

48 46

86 78

48 42

54 48

6

Thickness(mm)

0.37

0.19

0.31

0.44

7

Water absorption(sinking time)sec Water absorbancy(wetability)sec Water absorbancy (static immersion)% Longitudinal wickability,cm

11.6

15.14

18.32

31.46

11.2

22.76

24.32

92.14

233.33

86.32

89.49

3 min 5min 8.42 8.88 3.125

3 min 5 min 4.1 5.1 7.5

3 min 5 min 7.25 7.75

10.35

3 min 5 min 8.42 8.88 5.32

725.05

735.44

699.06

719.85

$' Â&#x20AC; "  = 3;  '

8

9 10

11

Diffusion,c m2

12

Water vapour permeability,g/m2

19.46

Â&#x20AC; X   q ')

Âą   =   '       = Â&#x2021;=      ] ^ 

"  "

    = 

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=    =  = $ Âą Â&#x160;"  

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sults. The comfort properties like longitudinal and water vapor permeability shows good results due to presence of cotton material and the feel of fabric is gritty it could be improved by sur= $  â&#x20AC;˘ Fit of the khadi apparel is phenomenally improve by slight modi$=  = =     Â&#x201C;  ' =   =' 

and armhole. â&#x20AC;˘ Overall subjective rating scale for all the 10 garments developed shows Very good to Excellent rating scale from the wearerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s perspective. â&#x20AC;˘ The opinion from retailers and customers perspective about khadi innovative apparel and fashion product we developed gives overwhelming positive feedback.

 ' "   $    ="  

="   urement in critical measurement zones. Overall the measurements were reduced by 2cm , the yoke width is reduced by 1 cm. From the      =

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=   "$=

improved by modifying the measurement.

â&#x20AC;˘ The total cost of developing the design for the ten garments is > ­²ŽŽ      =    "    

machine embroidery cost is little higher due to investment cost of the machine. When we produce in the mass production the rate could be reduced.

$' 

=  q  * 

Âą    " "   $      '   $"   '  =    "   

   = 

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  '  

in khadi allied industries .

S.NO Description 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Full length Chest Waist Pocket height Pocket width Shoulder point to point Arm hole

Existing style measurements 82 55 52 12 12 48

Modified style measurements 80 52 50 12 12 49

Difference ,cm -2 -2 -2 nil nil -1

46

44

-2

( "-' 

 ''   7' 

The overall subjective evaluation rating scale for all the 10 garments shows very good excellent rating scale from the customers perspective.

Fig 5.3.11 Over''   7' * ~Â&#x192; 4

20

The authors acknowledge the support given by the Management, the Principal and Head of the Department of Apparel Technology, PSG Polytechnic College for their encouragement and support in completion of this work. Also we thank our students of Apparel Technology S. Nivetha S.Sowmiya ,D.J.Sri Aishwarya,and S.Varatha Alwar who contributed for this work.

*  1.Marian L Davis, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Visual Design in Dressâ&#x20AC;?, Third edition Prentice hall, 1996. 2. Elaine Stone, â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Dynamics of fashionâ&#x20AC;?, Fairchild publication, 2001. 3. Jay Diamond and Ellen Diamond, â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Word of Fashion â&#x20AC;&#x153;,Second edition, Fairchild publication,1999. 4.www.Khadi And Village Industries 5. Prakash,â&#x20AC;?Inspirational Textile Designâ&#x20AC;?, Textra Design Book, January,1997, p.42 6. Dr.Shailaja D.Naik,â&#x20AC;?Traditional Embroideries Of Indiaâ&#x20AC;?, A.P.H Publishing Corporation, 1996, pp 15-142 7. Terry Brackenbury, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Knitted Clothing Technologyâ&#x20AC;?, Blackwell Science Ltd, 1992, pp 1-63 8. Dr.Shailaja D.Naik and Jyothi V.Vastrad ,â&#x20AC;&#x153; Protection and revival of traditional hand embroidery kasuti by automationâ&#x20AC;?, Indian Journal of Traditional Knowledge, Vol 7(1), January 2008, pp197-203. 9 .Amita D Pandya and Kruthi L Dholakia â&#x20AC;&#x153;, Historical Overview of Kutch Embroideriesâ&#x20AC;?, Indian Journal of Traditional Knowledge, Vol 12(3), July 2013, pp 524-529. 10. Namrata M and Shailaja D Naikâ&#x20AC;?, Contemporized traditional textile made-ups- A mode for rural and urban linkageâ&#x20AC;?, Indian Journal of Tradi-

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July 2016


&29(56725< tional Knowledge, Vol 7(1), January 2008, pp 208-211. 11. Marian L Davis,â&#x20AC;?Visual Design in Dressâ&#x20AC;?, Third edition Prentice Hall, 1996. 12. Elaine Stone,â&#x20AC;? The Dynamics of fashionâ&#x20AC;?, Fairchild publication, 2001. 13. Jay Diamond and Ellen Diamond,â&#x20AC;? The World of Fashionâ&#x20AC;?, Second edition, Fairchild publication, 1999.

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The India Retail Industry is the largest among all the industries, accounting for over 10 per cent of the country GDP and around 8 per cent of the employment. The Retail Industry in India has come forth as one of the most dynamic and fast paced industries with several players entering the market. But all of them have not yet tasted success because of the heavy initial investments that are required to break even with other companies and compete with them. The India Retail Industry is gradually inching its way towards becoming the next boom industry. With respect to retail in textile in India it is growing at more rapid pace as compared to other industry products though the margins are lesser than the other industry products in textile. The Indian retail market is expected to demonstrate a promising year-on-year growth of 6% to reach USD 865 billion, by 2023, from the current USD 490 billion. The share of apparel in Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s retail market is 8%, corresponding to a value of USD 40 billion. In addition to fashion apparel, the growing demand for fashion accessories makes the Indian fashion market both interesting and lucrative. The Indian fashion retail market has witnessed several fascinating changes and challenges in recent years, which are indicators of the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s evolving fashion retail market. The challenges associ     ="            Â&#x2021;= 

    

  

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Human Resource Management is the most important aspect in any Industry. To provide best quality and providing the best  =   =    "  Â&#x2020; Â&#x2021;=  

Organised Retail Textile Industry have upper hand in acquiring the right talent. Whereas unorganised sector face issues in acquisition 

"     $= =  

  "Â&#x201C;  =ture followed by them. Aligning organizational structures to consumer needs, designing employee compensation policies keeping in mind their roles,   "  =  "       "  cruiting and retaining talent, etc. are some of the key challenges that fashion retail players have to address. One of the critical aspects of human resource management will be the development of an organizational culture as this will have a direct impact on employee morale and their attitude towards customers.

The Challenges

July 2016

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Forgotten Four Pillars Integrity: Interiority is a state of being where the person is committed to its word what has been given. If you complete your commitment with integrity then people around will pay respect which lead to raising your value in the community. Relationship: People around you are the real resource of the life. It is very important to build strong relationship and keep that relationship intact with integrity. The relationship makes any person powerful. Without power in life none of tasks can be completed with integrity.

21


&29(56725< 7% 5 By existence it does not mean that we exist but it really means that we are in this world where there are many opportunities are there and we need to explore them and move forward. Any entity is there because people are there. Enrolment: Enrolment is creating new possibilities to be present for another such that they are touched and inspired. On can have right result once you have done enrolment with integrity. Evolving Customer Needs Evolving customer needs are a challenge for Indian retailer as these require rediscovering the customer within a short time span and then rearrange the organizationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s structure, retail formats, and product portfolios accordingly. Unlike a mature retail market, the retail market in India has to continuously focus on the process of learning, unlearning, and relearning. Again, this alone is not suf$= Â&#x2030;  " "     =       

actionable business decisions. Rising Real Estate Rentals Though overall there is slump in Real Estate but when it comes to setting up retail outlet it constitute the major cost to the busi  Q   Â&#x2021;= =     ^     

   $ 

"  '         

product but also they have look for players who are into trading other accessories in the particular market before setting up outlet in that market. If textile retailer identify the right market then due to high demand in that area the rentals in that area so high it becomes very competitive to sustain itself. Online Aggregators In recent years many online and other start-ups have established themselves in the textile retail and fashion providing customer larger choices at high discounted rates. They are able to provide at high discounted rates as they do not have to maintain inventory themselves. But the down side for them is the Indian customer like to feel and touch the product before making any decision for purchase. But new generation of Indian market are moving towards the online stores as they behaviour is lazy and want the products at their doorsteps. Few of online aggregators provide services like easy returns and trial at home services which makes lucrative for business for online aggregators. There are many other challenges faced by Textile Retail and Fashion Industry which is endless and one can list end number of challenges but most importantly is how the entrepreneur is able to deal with the challenges. $' ( Â&#x201E;

As retail and Fashion Industry is fast pace growing Industry it is important to create right talent pool and that also keeping with the "  =     ="

  Â&#x20AC;  $  

not really help as stated earlier Human Resource is the key factor in any industry. Unlike the traditional textile industry the process of recruitment need to be quicker as the retail market most completive market. If you not quick in the providing right services then it may happen you will miss out on the right opportunity. There are few important factors one must look into while acquiring right talent in Textile Retail & Fashion Industry. 3   X-'  Every Textile Retail or Fashion House before they acquire talent they must draft down what kind of talent they want. It is really important that the entrepreneur should have good product knowledge about his product and what itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s USP. Hence while enrolling

22

any talent in his retail outlet the entrepreneur should make sure the candidate has full product knowledge what he or she is merchandizing. A garment merchandiser has to analyse customers and consumers as well as to follow their behaviour to sell the garments merchandise. ! ) 7%;  As the Retail Textile & Fashion deals with B2B and B2C kind of customers where customers can be end user or trader or business user hence a candidates need to have variable experience which should be mix of technical operations etc. Apart from the mix pro$    "   ^     =Â&#x201C;   $  

also required. Which are listed as follows:=- > 3q'  < â&#x20AC;˘ Associate Designer â&#x20AC;˘ Designer â&#x20AC;˘ Design Director â&#x20AC;˘ Technical Designer â&#x20AC;˘ CAD Designer â&#x20AC;˘ Production Manager â&#x20AC;˘ Textile Buyer â&#x20AC;˘ Fashion Forecaster â&#x20AC;˘ Assistant Merchandiser â&#x20AC;˘ Associate Merchandiser â&#x20AC;˘ Product Specialist â&#x20AC;˘ Visual Merchandiser/ Display Director There are scarcity of specialized professional in Retail Textile industry this is due there are only very few textile institutes which = 

  =Â&#x201C;  =   "   =     

but very few candidate prefer to take up as their career as it is not very rewarding but in Industry demand for these candidates are quite high. Due to scarce specialized manpower the cost of manpower is quite high which adds up to the cost of manufacturer and making the end product quite expensive for end user. Personal Behaviour This is the most important aspect while selecting right talent for the Fashion and Retail Textile Industry. Personal Behaviour plays a very important role more than the product knowledge and Industry Experience. As the candidate has to not only have to deal within the organization but also external entities outside the organization. For example: If a trader want 100 Slim Fit Blue jeans the merchandiser or the marketing personnel should have good patience in listening and understanding the trader needs. He should able explain politely and educate the trader about trends and demand and supply of market. If the merchandiser fails to do so no matter he   Â&#x2020;$    

  "  " Hence from the above example we understand the importance of personal Behaviour. A candidate has to remember four pillar of life which mentioned earlier in this article. Which help the candi  ]   



=

     ' We can conclude that Retail Textile & Fashion industry is growing at a rapid pace this is due to increase in per capita income among the young generation and people are more & more conscious about fashion and brand. Most of Indian population specially the rural India are more brand conscious and spend more than the urban area people. But recruitment in this industry is not a childâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s play. As there are very few specialist available in this Industry. A specialized consultant in this Industry can be wise option for acquiring these kind of talent.

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July 2016


&29(56725<

RETAIL MANAGEMENT IN TEXTILES Z $_[Â&#x160;||Z _Â&#x2C6;z}+ \ _Â&#x2C6;Â&#x2039;[z ]_Z`_ Email ID- Saloni.1990jan@gmail.com Department of Textile Technology Shri Vaishnav Institute of Technology and Science , Indore(M.P)

Retail management is most important in the business. Dynamic young people as well as blue-chip companies are suddenly taking pride in calling themselves shopkeepers. This profession is able to attract the cream of talent from management institutes. The amaz"    

      ^  = ]  

in spite of an industrial slump. As far as the western world is concerned the retailing market operates virtually at saturation point. In retail management, it is extremely important to keep a track  =

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buying behavior. Success in retailing comes from how the value chain is linked to each retail function aiming at the watchword while attempting to orchestrate the value driving forces to accomplish success in retailing. Innovations & constant value additions to the key enables in entire value chain will give a clear competitive advantage &help the retail store emerge as a winner. In this paper we are going to discuss, retail management in the business that has the most rapid, most visible & deepest impact on economic development & growth. Developments & changes in retail management are bound to get noticed because they intimately & directly touch each one of us, regardless of our age, class or profession.

Textile whole sale and retail are terms closely associated with the commercial aspect of textile industry. The practice of selling of textile goods or merchandise to retailers, commercial, institutional, or other professional business users or to other textile wholesalers is known as textile wholesaling. Wholesaler often physically assemble, sort and grade products in huge quantities, then break the bulk and repack and redistribute them in smaller quantities. Without a doubt, the most important factor which makes a retailer successful is the appeal & quality of the range of products that it stocks. Certainly there are other factors that contribute to the success; the design of the store, the attentiveness & knowl "             ' " Âş motions &appeal of the visual merchandising. These are the things which although enhance the shopping experience for the customers & perhaps ensure that they visit your store more than others, they do not directly lead to a sale. The only thing that will make a customer part with his cash is, in the end, the product. The process which supports the planning & buying of a range is therefore central to any retailers operations. This process involves  Â&#x20AC;  ==    =       $=

  =     ] = Âş =   == Âş  =tors to consider ensuring that we do get it right.

INTRODUCTION

ADDING VALUE IN-STORE

The sale of textile goods or merchandise usually for personal or   " 

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subordinated services is known as textile retailing. Textile retailers usually refer to those groups of who purchases huge quantities of textile products from manufacturers or importers either directly or through a wholesaler and ultimately sells individual product item or small quantities to the general customers in shops or stores.

The moment one things of value in retailing, what comes to mind are some dominant success indicators like the location of the    '   Âş =

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ABSTRACT

LOCATION Successful retailing depends on the three most important factors: Location, location & location. And hence perhaps many retail organizations think that having got the right location, they would start churning out sales. It is right that location is important but if one does not look at the robustness of the other value drivers too besides location factors or any dominant factors that the organizations may think is right for achieving the desired results, sales would not happen. We see large crowds of people visiting retail stores & shopping malls. We even know that an up-market shopping mall had huge =  "   Âş

   = =  "  

they introduced especially on weekends certain entry enablers for customers like the mobile phones, credit cards, identity cards, an entry fee, etc! So, these are all factors that evince the successful establishment of a store or mall. On the other hand, there are other retailers, primarily in the life style retail sector, whose merchandise is targeted towards psyche of rich mega cities. Driving on this perception of a higher willingness to spend on life style & luxury products, this segment is expected to maintain focus on the large base of the richest consuming class in the larger cities. PLANNING AND BUYING A SUCCESSFUL RANGE Success in retailing is when any one who walks into your store $   =   

         Â&#x201C; \=-

Figure No.01

July 2016

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23


&29(56725< cess is when nearly everything you buy sells at full price. Success is when the customer keeps coming back to your store because you     



  \==  $   $

Figure- 02 INFLUENCES AND CONSTRAINTS  =  Âş Â&#x201C;  

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Who is your customer & what does he or she want? What space do you have available? %      "  $    Ÿ What is happening in the market? THE CUSTOMER The potential consumer is anyone who walks into your store  ½ = ] =  '  

  "  ing, through store environment & through garment product that    Âş   =       =   $=' Â&#x2030;   

they walk into your store with a particular purchase in mind, they will often walk out with something else. At the same time, research for apparels can only be accurate. Asking Will you wear this garment doesnt always reveal what will really happen when the customer is actually presented with that garment. Even customer feedback can be misleading. If one very loud customer asks regularly for a product it doesnt mean that every customer wants or needs it. That one customer will be remembered & can lead to false demand. SPACE Walls are not elastic. You will need to decide how to allocate the space you have available to the garment products the customer expects you to stock, in a way that delivers the best returns. This macro level planning of the product mix is critical to achieving prof {""´ =' ´= }     == 

º   "  º "  ½      =

what stock density you want to achieve. The more options/units you can hold for a given amount of space, the higher the potential returns. However, the customer may not approve. He/she may wish to shop in a store that is less cluttered. The range size for any product area is not constant. It is no use giving space to a product if there are not enough options to display. PROFITABILITY     "   =     = >   $    '  }   "       =

between the sales at actual selling price & the cost of textile product sold, is the number one deliverable for buying & merchandising team. This will impact on the cost price you need to negotiate,   =       Âş   '}  =   %

should remember that, stock is money-every product you have  

]

      =

     =

as soon as you pay for it. Keeping up with fashion- Styles change every week. So catching fashion while it is hot is a clear recipe for better margins with more sales happening at full prices & fewer

24

discounts. Three winning formulae to get fresh fashionsâ&#x20AC;˘ Short lead time =More fashionable clothes â&#x20AC;˘ Lower quantities=Scarce supply â&#x20AC;˘ More styles=More choice & more chances of hitting it right We should also consider market factors such asâ&#x20AC;˘ New product developments â&#x20AC;˘ New lifestyles â&#x20AC;˘ Fashion trends â&#x20AC;˘ Economic factors â&#x20AC;˘ Competition â&#x20AC;˘ Supply base

&28175< 86$ 8. )5$1&( ,7$/<  *(50$1< -$3$1 &+,1$ ,1',$

0$5.(76,=( (676,=(,1  86ELOOLRQ  86%LOOLRQ               !  !

&+$1*( 86%LOOLRQ        ! !

RIGHT PRODUCT Make sure the customer is given the best possible choice of product at all times with respect to the following: PRICE  $ 

 =  = = 

 =  

   

& Premium price points. Be customer-led, not cost-driven.Set the price according to what the customer wants to pay, & so that you =  = 

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rate. Dont set the selling price according to the cost price for the "     $^   "

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the same item. At the time, clear pricing delivers a stronger message. Colour, style, fabric & innovation of a garment are the most important binding elements in a range. Dont let one colour dominate but, at the same time dont become a rainbow. Also, aim to keep the range fresh at all times. TEXTILE COMPANIES TO INTEGRATE AND COLLABORATE TO COMPETE IN A GLOBAL INDUSTRY Textile companies face increasing globalization in many areas of the textile industries- competition, markets & sources of material & production. That increasing globalization demands new approaches. To succeed today, you need access to work forces, raw materials & other resources from around the globe. You need to deliver products to customers worldwide & to purchase preliminary & intermediate textile products on a global basis. You need to manage complex products with various product, dimension, and quality process attributes; deal with asset- and energy- intensive production; and cope with complex, ever- changing environmental regulations. And you need to build stronger relationships with customers to keep competitors from luring them away. All of those requirements make the textile industry a place where simply having the best product is no longer enough. You also have to excel at logistics & provide quality service. To respond to

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July 2016


&29(56725< customer needs & to successfully compete you have to constantly =  Â&#x2021;= = =    "   '     Âş

reach beyond your corporate boundaries.

Finally he chooses the establishments model, on whom the collection will be presented to the public.

RETAILERS RUSH TO TEMPERATE ZONE

It is clear that the Indian market is going through a phase that is unprecedented in its recent history, and the opportunity exists for existing producers of garments (including exporters), Indian companies from other sectors, international brands, as well as individual entrepreneurs, to create a brand presence from scratch or grow their existing business. The qualifying factors for entry into the contest are the desire to create new brands, and deep pockets to sustain investment in branding and market-building. However, the success factors to win in the contest are higher drive and enthusiasm to take the hits that will invariably come, an ability to tap  = Â&#x2C6;           

      =} = 

  =     

common sense to minimize the losses during the initial period of investment, which may be months or years. With all the challenges 

        = "      Â&#x2C6;

say, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Happy Retailing!â&#x20AC;?

If temping pass, weekend temping is a new passport for retailers to tide over footfall pressure during weekends. As families make a beeline for high streets &malls during the weekends the normal looks helpless. So retailers are increasingly training their eyes on droves of under grades who are willing to work for money, recognition or just the fun of hanging out. Heavy weight retailers see spike in footfalls over the weekends, are roping in agencies for out sourcing man power for that one to two day duration. The retailers face real manpower issues during the weekends & this is bound to go up. For people shopping is more of an entertainment than just a plain utilitarian activity & that explains the chaos    "  '  \

    

 =   

basic functions such as attending to customers, restocking, etc. E-SHOPES E-commerce shopping is one important factor in retailing and gaining immense popularity in metros. Changing & shopping habits turning for convenience & large number of people &merchants becoming internet savvy are primary reasons for pushing up e= =  =      =  =   ==  Âş  $   =   Â   Âş

retailers both desire simple & comprehensive online shopping that will truly realize the range of power of internet. The online system is advantageous to vendors because rapid solicitations can be viewed 24 hours/day using a one-stop shop"            =   Â&#x2021;= 

Many local entities also use the system to describe their minority = ="  =  Âş ' =  "  = $=

process. Home delivery saves the time & 24*7 hours shopping with ease & availability factors for product comparisons. E-shopping taking place in electronic gadgets, apparel & design purchases, railways, air tickets, accessories & jewellery, online book sale. FASHION INDUSTRY Boutique & its importance:- The role of a designer in a boutique is crucial to its success. The task is one of the interpreting societyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s current & anticipated mood into desirable, wearable garments for    Âş      '      =   "  

be in tuned with wider social, cultural, economic & political environment within which people conduct their daily lives. Only their ideas   ] = =

  " = Âş  =   

likely to have on future consumer needs. It is better for a designer who works for a boutique to understand a sequence of events in       

"   ] =      =     Âş   Âş   = 

$  ' '') 5 â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘

The color meeting. The biannual yarn & fabric fairs. The biannual international fashion fairs in Paris. Reportage in the trade & commercial press.

THE PRESENT STRUCTURE OF FASHION INDUSTRY The manufacture & sale of cloths today is one of the worlds most important industries. The fashion industry has changed as   ^  Âş  $  #  ="  " 

regards to the creative aspects of fashion design. The head of a collection is surrounded by the team of designers & dress makers .He is responsible for choosing the seasons line & fabrics & selecting which models will be made on the premises in his workroom.

July 2016

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WHO DARES, WINS!

FUTURE SENTIMENTS

Over all retailing will see a combination of large format retail outlets, representing a combination of malls and high street retailing. This trend will spread beyond the metropolitan cities to the large towns. A super retailer can actually, drive expectations by developing need based retail formats. Many new formats will emerge, as there will be rapid roll-outs. In the coming years Store size and scale will increase and niche players will co-exist. There will be integration of retailing and wholesaling. The only way in which the big retail formats can hope to com    =     = "  Â&#x2021;=  

chain. The hyper marts will play a large part in this :Any organized retail chain requires a critical mass before it can integrate & automate the supply chain. However, the success of hyper marts once a month & stock up on groceries & the like. The main retail formats Âą \    = ^  Â&#x2021;=   = â&#x20AC;˘ Small supermarkets running on brand variety & tight inventory control. â&#x20AC;˘ Mix of food & general merchandise stores. â&#x20AC;˘ Out of-town/on the outskirts of the city shopper tainment complexes. â&#x20AC;˘ Mid sized retail propositions within town limits. â&#x20AC;˘ Small corner outlets with integrated home delivery for telephonic orders. â&#x20AC;˘ Awareness of factors such as trade mix & positioning for successful retailing has increased.

25


&29(56725< Interview with Ms. Harpreet Kaur Young Designer S

 

= $=      = 

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thority

one thing that pictures give a very Big impact, therefore let your Pictures Speak about your blog.

I stands for passionate impulse that brings out charm

TVC : What is your Favourite Fashion magazine?

K stands for being the knight who served his master as an ar mour mounted soldier

HK : Vogue, Cosmopolitian

H stands for being helpful and humble, it brings out a unique altruism

HK : Sonam Kapoor , Beyonce

N stands for strong negotiable skills and communication

HK : Heels

I

 

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$ 5 c      -' ) '"  ''Â&#x2018;

This all brings out a true SIHKNI! Without futher adue lets talk with that young designer and the  * Â&#x17D;!X<!$Â?97Â?

'* +  <; X  TVC : When did you have interest in Fashion? HK : I was 13 when i decided to be a designer, since then i started dreaming and reading about Fashion Designers, Stylists, Illustrators, Fashion Choreographers etc. According to my Parents i had already chosen my Career at the age of 2, as since then i have been choosing my own clothes to wear. TVC : What does fashion mean to you? HK : Fashion to me is Everywhere, its in Nature, Streets, Cities, Villages, its everywhere. TVC : Who would you say is your fashion inspiration? HK : My Parents TVC : What inspired you to start up with SIKHNISTYLES? HK : was in College when i saw Singh Street Style, i loved it and thought why isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t there anything for Turbaned Women, so thought of starting it myself. And not necessarily one has to wear short clothes, wear a lot of makeup, colour your hair to look Fashionable, one can look absolutely beautiful by having your body covered up and look Fashionable at the same time, as its said â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;SIMPLICITY IS BEAUTYâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;.

TVC : Favourite Celebrity style? TVC : Heels? or Flats?

HK : Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Arpita Mehta, Wendell Rodricks and many more. $ 5 c -' ) )     ''  *ion blogging? HK : Fashion Blogging is something that excites me the most, and that is something i enjoy doing it, the challenging part that i think about Fashion Blogging is reaching it to the right audience. $ 5

<- -' )   ) ;' )'

HK : I love printed turbans, pop colour blazer, a white shirt, black   $         =' =  =  =

 

and you are good to go. TVC : Any style tips for Sikh Turbaned Women? HK : Fashion is endless and one can do a lot with it, play with colours go colourful, colour contrast with turban and garments or turban and dupattas, go with prints and prints , printed turbans with printed garments. Go simple wear heels , they make you look glamorous. Accessories too enhance and pop a look. Not necessary to follow Trends all the time, just be comfortable and carry yourself =$  Profession- Fashion Designer, Stylist and Sikhni Fashion Blogger at SIKHNISTYLES

$ 5 c -    *     *  ) ;   ) = "  ! 'Â&#x2018; HK : Well, some liked it some did not, it was 50-50, our goal is to be Fashionable while staying grounded. $ 5<-  ) ' -  Â&#x2018; HK : In my opinion criticism is important in life it helps you to grow and most importantly understand peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s perspective and choice. $ 5 <-  ) =   =')    -  

you the most? HK : My Family and Friends Appreciated the SIKHNI look and my siblings were the ones to encourage me the most, in fact i never wanted myself to get photographed i wanted to style up for Tur  %   "     =  =Â&#x2C6; $ one, my brother suggested me to start with myself, and both my siblings love photography. $ 5 c   )      'Â&#x2018;

HK : As i said there was nothing for Turbaned Women, this idea and Curiosity made me to start up with SIKHNISTYLES and i Love Turbans, since childhood i have been seeing people in my family with Turbans. $ 5 <- -' )   ) ' )'Â&#x2018; HK : I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t really know much about Fashion Blogging, but i know

26

www.textilevaluechain.com

July 2016


Fashion Forecast

PAINTING ONE'S OWN REALITIES

//SEEING THE BIG PICTURE//

BEING IN THE CLOUDS

GREAT ESCAPE


Fashion Forecast BLURRING READING

DELICATELY INVENTING

ESCAPING INTO EXTRAVAGANCE


Fashion Forecast

Autumn Winter 2016 Forecast by Premier Vision COLOUR

PROVOKING UNSTEADY BALANCES Focusing on a â&#x20AC;&#x153;cubistâ&#x20AC;? skirt, prettily disordered, on contrasting and mixed stripes, asymmetric folds and irregular pleats, elaborated pre- or post-garment manufacturing. Yarn-dyed or printed shirting-style cottons or everyday silkies. Playing on improbable blends right through to ribbons, accessories and trims, zips and jewellery.


Fashion Forecast BOOSTING THE SIMPLICITY OF THE DRESS Paring down shape to the extreme simplicity of a rectangle, then gracefully puckering, gathering, tying. Favouring featherweight linens and shirting cottons, delicate rustics and decoration with light stippling. Contrasting the look with accessories and trimmings, playing with plastics and metals in dynamic colours.

SUBVERTING SUITS Boldly designing a non-conformist suit. Brazenly doing without the jacket, replacing it with a woven top, while hewing to the elegance of fine combed wools, discreet end-on-ends and rigorous mohairs. Pushing the boundaries of ‘no gender’ with almost feminine embellishments, not refraining from carefully engineered embroideries, or flowers in hidden or tiny details.

POETIC OVERALLS

ASSEMBLING IN CONTRADICTION

Taking overalls out of workwear and jeanswear and transposing them into chic and light versions for the city. Selecting only refined linens, plainly lighter-weight denims, elegant and relaxed vegetal suitings. Borrowing details directly from suits and shirts, tailored collars and pockets, buttoned cuffs, discreet zips.

Enjoying exploding garment proportions, emphasising a bermuda in a baggy street version and contrasting it with a narrow jacket, freely mixing fits and lengths. Setting slightly rustic blurry woollens and suitings against technical canvases and gabardines or luggage-like pure polyamide. Contrasting ultra chic trimmings and finishings or a sartorial detail with worn looks and aged metal in a jeanswear vein.

JOYFULLY UNCOORDINATED

ENERGIZING THE UTILITARIAN

Relaxing and rejuvenating the dress to wear like a tee-shirt. Sketching out a relaxed and fanciful femininity composed of spontaneous assemblies, stitched or even glued with adhesive tapes, zips and decorated snaps. Fluid crepons, light knits, Pop-like decorations or graphic embroidery and openwork worked in friendly and cheerful combinations.

Giving a fresh take to the workwear and utilitarian trend, and cultivating anti-camouflage with sturdy, colourful cottons or synthetics, lush decoration on sportswear and jeanswear bases, jungles and flowers to grow patinated with time. Bringing large volumes, the oversized, comfortable ease and an all-terrain approach together with sparkling and clearly visible decoration. Using colourful braids, broadly belting, playing with deliberately fun finishings to stride through the city like in search of new fashion territories to conquer.

FRESHENING-UP TECH

SPORTS NIGHT OUT

Cutting it short, traveling light, adopting the positive attitude of sports in “almost” everyday fashions. Small volumes, shorts in suiting fabrics with naive checks. Windstops that fit in the hand, techno-poetic iridescence, functional fabrics equally goodlooking and effective. Deliberately sporty accessories and trims, signage piping, playful snaps and stoppers, luminescent accents.

Diverting swimwear and sport fabrics and codes for evening and dressy looks. Re-evoking the jumpsuit in an ultraglamorous way, revelling in stretch fluidity, swimsuit-style locknits or sophisticated crêpes with a silky and elastic thicknesses. Borrowing details and trims from lingerie, swimsuits and sports. To be worn with evening jewellery and accessories.


32676+2:5(3257 $%'  )+    inaugurated HGH India 2016

With its 5th edition, HGH India the annual trade show for Home Textiles, Home DĂŠcor, Gifts & Houseware in India. More than 450 brands, manufacturers and importers are presenting their range and innovations this year. The function opened with the lamp lighting ceremony at 10:30 am with Mrs. Rashmi Verma, Textile Secretary and Guest of Honour Dr. Kavita Gupta, Textiles Commissioner, was also present there with many other prominent industry leaders and dignitaries. The function also witnessed the unveiling of the Trend Book 2016-2017. On this occasion, Mrs. Rashmi Verma, Textile Secretary said, Âż{Â&#x201A;{ <  =  "     $      = ated a forum to both intensively and extensively expand as well as penetrate the ever growing domestic market. Infact the world is eyeing the Indian markets with its phenomenal market potential. HGH is serving precisely that purpose for the Indian manufacturers to reach out to this market with an impact.â&#x20AC;? HGH India aims to give retailers new ideas and new concepts to facilitate business. The trade show has provided business opportunities and development of new channel partners to exhibiting brands in order to improve the trade. The strict B2B concept of HGH India has proven to be an inspiring and productive platform to push the home product retail market. About HGH India HGH India, the annual trade show for Home Textiles, Home DĂŠcor, Gifts & Houseware is specially designed to connect Indian market for home products and gifts. High quality trade visitors at

HGH India comprise of all categories of retailers. They include department stores, hyper markets, specialty stores, high-end luxury stores and boutiques, traditional store owners, and online and electronic medium retailers. Institutional buyers, corporate gift buyers, interior designers, prospective agents and franchisees too come in large numbers. Besides these, leading Indian importers, distributors, buying agents and brand representatives attend HGH India to explore new business opportunities and partnerships.

FASHION BLOGGING â&#x20AC;&#x153;â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Bloggingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; - a contraction of the term â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;web loggingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; â&#x20AC;&#x201C; could be described as a form of micro-publishing. Easy to use, from any Internet connection point, blogging has become, these days, a web based communications tool.â&#x20AC;? (Williams and Jacobs 2004). A fashion blog is a place where issues such as fashion shows, new trends, fashion brands, designersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; work, celebrities, or personal style are presented for those passionate about the fashion industry. Personal fashion blogs are, usually, focused on the style of the writer, but this is not a rule. Popular fashion ideas move more quickly now that we have richer communication links and because of globalization fashion area is more accessible, nowadays, to everyone. Fashion blogs often contain daily updates on new trends, shops, notes and photos from fashion shows, magazines. Also, â&#x20AC;&#x153;they can contain photos of the bloggers themselves or ordinary people on the street they $  "            ' }

   =      $      

information existing on the web. They share their knowledge and passion on the subject, and the trends and styles spread and evolve with the network of links and with the people reading the blog. Thus, the internet has increased the number of inspiration sourcesâ&#x20AC;? (Hauge 2010).

July 2016

www.textilevaluechain.com

TOP FASHION BLOGGER : 1Shalini Chopra : http://www.stylishbynature.com/ 2Rasshi Gaur : http://blahandmore.com/ 3Gia Kashyap : http://www.giasaysthat.com/ 4Magali Vaz : http://magalic.com/ 5Jasleen & Sonu : http://www.fashion-bombay.com/ 6Manvi Gandotra : http://styleinked.com/ ¾}  º  ' [ [´´ " =$  =´

8Shaily Khera : http://confessionzofacloset.blogspot.in/ 9Mehak : http://www.peachesandblush.com/ 10- Saily : http://www.thestylecocktail.in/ 11- Purushu Arie: http://purushu.com/ 12- Riaan George : http://www.urbaneye.in/ 13- Tanya : http://www.letsexpresso.com/ 14- Akansha REdhu http://www.letsexpresso.com/ ­²}   [ [´´  " $   =´

http://www.manrepeller.com/ http://www.theblondesalad.com/ http://fuss.co.in/ http://republicofchic.in/ http://razzledazzlepickle.com/

31


%5$1'675$7(*<

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Industry Shri ^\]z[ <_{]_[z AGM â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Market Research & Product Development Â&#x160;½ \Â?§Œ£Ă&#x20AC; #Â&#x2122;Â&#x2014;Â&#x2122;ÂŚÂŁÂŻ Â&#x2018;*¢¼Â&#x2014;ÂŁÂ&#x161;Â? %ÂŁÂ&#x161;Â&#x17E;¤¸§ \Â?§Œ£Ă&#x20AC; #ÂŚÂŻÂ&#x2019; What if your business could be in a league of its own? Instead of competing with others in your industry, what if you were setting  =  = " Â&#x2020;  =   $"   =   

markets? Generating that kind of environment is the goal of blue ocean strategy, a business theory that suggests companies are bet

   =" 

  " Â&#x201C;  " ; Â&#x201D; than engaging in traditional competition. The term is derived from the book Â&#x201C;'  )Â&#x201D; by W. Chan Kim and Renee Mauborgne. It describes how companies traditionally work in Â&#x201C;  Â&#x201D; =     = $" " = 



a share of the marketplace. Instead, according to the blue ocean   "  "Â&#x201C;  $     '    ' =

that is free of competitors. Leading companies will succeed not by battling competitors, but by systematically creating Â&#x201C;'  Â&#x201D; of uncontested market space ripe for growth. The strategy represents the simultane    "  =     =  

making competition irrelevant. The question arises how many industries that are unknown today will exist in the future? Considering history as any predictor ... the answer is many. Companies have a huge capacity to create new industries and re-create existing    =   ] =      ="     

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is successful because it simultaneously attracts large numbers of customers while raising the cost of competition. '  )    ) 5 The traditional competition-based strategies (red ocean strate" Â&#x2019;   =       Â&#x2021;=    "   mance. Companies need to go beyond competing. To seize new  $  "           =  

oceans. Competition based strategies assume that an industryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s  =  =  "    $    =   =pete within them, an assumption based on what academics call the structuralism view, or environmental determinism. To sustain themselves in the marketplace, practitioners of red ocean strategy focus on building advantages over the competition, usually by assessing what competitors do and striving to do it better. Here, grabbing a bigger share of the market is seen as a zero-sum game in which one companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s gain is achieved at another companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s loss. Hence, =       Â&#x2020;  =    $"

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    stead of creating wealth. They focus on dividing up the red ocean, where growth is increasingly limited. Blue ocean strategy, on the other hand, is based on the view that market boundaries and industry structure are not given and can be reconstructed by the actions and beliefs of industry players. This is what the author calls the reconstructionist view. Assuming that structure and market boundaries exist only in managersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; minds, practitioners who hold this view do not let existing market structures limit their thinking. To them, extra demand is out there,

32

largely untapped. The crux of the problem is how to create it. This, in turn, requires a shift of attention from supply to demand, from a focus on competing to a focus on value innovation â&#x20AC;&#x201C; that is, the creation of innovative value to unlock new demand. This is achieved           }= Â&#x160;  '   =  ="    '"   ´=     

the rules of the game. Competition in the old game is therefore rendered irrelevant. By expanding the demand side of the economy, new wealth  =   \=    "    $    "   

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=  '     )Â? ;    5 To discover an elusive blue ocean, the author suggests the â&#x20AC;&#x153;Four Actions Framework.â&#x20AC;? This is used to reconstruct buyer value     = "     =    '    }        =   =      =  

the framework poses four key questions:

The analysis based on above 4 points pushes leaders to simul        =   

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are focused only on raising and creating, in the process lifting the cost structure and often over-engineering products and services.

www.textilevaluechain.com

July 2016


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Industry:

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Blue ocean strategy is based on the simultaneous pursuit of     =

<   â&#x20AC;&#x153;and-and,â&#x20AC;? not an â&#x20AC;&#x153;either-orâ&#x20AC;? strategy. Conventional wisdom holds that companies can either create greater value for customers at a higher cost or create reasonable value at a lower cost. Here strategy is seen as making a ==        = < =  

=    "  '   '   }=     ing and reducing factors an industry competes on and raising and = " =       

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value innovation.    =       = 

strategic approach that takes an industry structure as given and seeks to build a defensible position within the existing industry order. The strategic logic of value innovation guides companies to identify what buyers commonly value across the conventional boundaries of competition and reconstruct key factors across mar'       = "     

cost and creating a leap in value for both buyers and the company. Recently Van Heusen has introduced shirts called Easy Wash & Zero detergent. The brand is creating features that industry or =   

   =""  =  =    "    =  A revolutionary innovation from Van Heusen that allows you to remove everyday stains with just a dab   Q "  Â&#x2020;

blend of fashion & technology, every Easy Wash shirt combines the best of liquid repellence & stain release =   $  rics .Perfect for those who know a change of shirt is quite a compromise.

Â&#x20AC;Â&#x2022;

try boundaries. Whereas conventional strategic approaches drive =    $  

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best within it, blue ocean strategy prompts them to break out of  ==        $    =  < 

of looking within these boundaries, managers need to look systematically across them to create blue oceans â&#x20AC;&#x201C; new and uncontested  '  =       "  $ " 

!    " ;  5

Blue ocean strategy doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t aim to out-perform the competition. It aims to make the competition irrelevant by reconstructing indus-

July 2016

www.textilevaluechain.com

Raymonds introduced Technosmart fabric is perfect example of Value Innovation & creating blue ocean strategy of creating new  '   "    "       ' Â&#x201E;   =tion ,wrinkle free , smooth touch & breathable fabrics. The brand is making competition irrelevant , creating & captur"       }=    Âş = " "  $

growth. Â&#x2022;

! ;   ;Â&#x2014;)Â&#x2014;; ;  5

From assessing the current state of play in an industry, to exploring the strategic paths to new market space, to understanding how to convert noncustomers into customers, blue ocean strategy provides a clear four-step process to break away from the competition  =    =    "  $ " 

  } 

process is designed around the concepts and analytic tools of blue ocean strategy and fair process. It allows managers and their teams to develop rigorous and concrete strategies while capturing the big picture. In this way, it presents an alternative to the existing strategic planning process, which is often criticized as a number-crunching exercise that keeps companies locked into making incremental improvements. 4)

It maximizes opportunity while minimizing risk :

Blue ocean strategy is an opportunity-maximizing risk-minimizing strategy. Of course any strategy will always involve risks â&#x20AC;&#x201C; be it red or blue. However, blue ocean strategy provides a robust mechanism to mitigate risks and increase the odds of success. A key framework here is the Blue Ocean Idea Index. The Blue Ocean Idea Index lets you test the commercial viability of your blue ocean        $ 

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upside while minimising downside risks. It allows you to answer four key questions: First, is there a compelling reason for people   

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mass of target buyers so they have a compelling ability to pay for it?   =   = 

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model. They ensure that you create a leap in net buyer value. The   Â&#x2020;      $   

   

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33


+5)2&86 the last question ensures that you have given good thought and addressed externalities that could trip up even the best new idea. Â&#x161;Â&#x2022;

! '  %   ) 5 The process and tools of blue ocean strategy are inclusive, easy to understand and communicate, and visual â&#x20AC;&#x201C; all of which makes the  =  }"    =   " ^ =tion into strategy and the collective wisdom of a company. Equally as important, blue ocean strategy is a strategy that expressly joins analytics with the human dimension of organisations. It recognises and pays respect to the importance of aligning peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s minds and hearts with a new strategy so that at the level of the individual, people embrace it of their own accord and willingly go beyond compulsory execution to voluntary cooperation in carrying it out. To achieve this, blue ocean strategy does not separate strategy formulation from execution. Instead, blue ocean strategy builds execution into strategy from the start through the practice of fair process in the making and rolling out of strategy.. They allow companies to stand apart in the speed, quality, and consistency of their execution and to implement strategic shifts fast at low cost.

execution is based largely on a motivating people proposition. The alignment of the three propositions proposed by blue ocean strategy ensures that an organisation is taking a holistic approach to the formulation and execution of strategy. Together the three propositions provide an organising framework for creating a winning strat "     $    =       

external stakeholders. To conclude author strongly believes creating blue oceans will build brands. The competitive business scenario & ever increasing    =  

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for value innovations & change of business models .The strategies will have to be realigned from traditional focus of beating the competition , exploring consumer demands to creating & capturing new demands & making competition irrelevant. The next generation of business will be creating new market boundaries with new segment of customers & thats where blue ocean strategy is so powerful that timely strategic move can create brand equity that lasts for decades.

Â&#x203A;Â&#x2022; ! - ) -    -Â&#x2014;-   5

â&#x20AC;˘ The Blue Ocean Strategy Book by W. Chan Kim and Renee Mauborgne â&#x20AC;˘ www.corporatestretgy.com â&#x20AC;˘ www.knowledge.instead.edu â&#x20AC;˘ www.hbr.org â&#x20AC;˘ www.raymondsindia.com â&#x20AC;˘Times of India advertisements of Technosmart Fabric & Van Heusen Easy Wash Shirt Â&#x153; '5 The views and opinions expressed in this article are those of the author in his personal capacity of knowledge & perspectives on the mentioned subject .

With its integrated approach, blue ocean strategy shows how to align the three strategy propositions - '+ ;q+  ;;' - to ensure your organisation is aligned around your new strategy and that it creates a win for buyers, the company, and for employees and stakeholders. For any strategy to be successful and sustainable   "       "   =  Â&#x2030; 

must create a business model that enables the company to make    $Â&#x2030;         '" 





the company to execute the strategy. While good strategy content hinges upon a compelling value proposition for buyers and a ro  $   

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Indian Textile Industry Shri Avinash Mayekar $()! *  & + + !  5 India is growing economy today on worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s map. With abundant raw material availability& stable government, strong industrial growth is forecasted in near future. Textile is one the most ancient industries. Today, textile sector is one of the largest contributors to Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s exports with approximately 11 per cent of total exports.The industry realised export earnings worth US$ 41.4 billion in 2014-15, a growth of 5.4 per cent, as per The Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council (Texprocil). The Indian Textile Industry contributes approximately 5 per cent to Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s gross domestic product (GDP), and 14 per cent to overall Index of Industrial Production (IIP).The Indian textiles industry, currently estimated at around US$ 108 billion, is expected to reach US$ 223 billion by 2021. The industry is the second largest employer after agriculture, providing employment to over 45 million people directly and 60 million people indirectly. As per the NSDC report, the overall employment in the textile and

34

clothing sector is expected to increase from about 33 to 35 million in 2008 to about 60 to 62 million by 2022.This would translate to an incremental humanresource requirement of about 25 million persons by 2022.Of this, the mainstream textile and clothing sector has the potential to employ about 17 million persons incrementally till 2022. As textile is highly labour intensive industry, the growth will be highly supported by skilled workforce.High skilled workforce trained with international technology will help to achieve higher productivities & good operational management. There will be tre     Â&#x2021;=  

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But todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s scenario is completely contrast,we are facing huge scarcity of skilled workforce.  *   )  "'' -"*   $%'  5 Â? =-  Â&#x2013; $%'  There is huge demand of technical manpower from the indus-

www.textilevaluechain.com

July 2016


+5)2&86 try but unfortunately due to shortage of skilled manpower, we are facing huge demand supply gap in the industry. The prime reason of this shortage is number of institutes having technical courses in  ^      Âş=  =   $" 

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designed their course content as per existing industry requirement. In fact many of the institutes have not revised their portion as per new technology & current techniques. They are still teaching the old technologies to the students. Many of the students are not even aware of latest technology in the industry. So, when they enter into industry after completing their courses, they face huge challenges in understanding the industry. Â? 9 " *  ) "-'  After completing the course, students have very less or no industry knowledge. Most of the students are thorough with the theoretical knowledge only from examination point of view, but they face challenge in industrial application. The main reason is due to improper in-plant training during the course. As in-plant training is the only industrial exposure to the students during course, it is very       " 

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knowledge. The in-plant training should be extended to minimum 1 year of period. Â? -    q'     ^ "   = 

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=pletion of their course to some other sector. Some of the reasons for switch over are unhygienic & unhealthy working conditions at plant, low pay at entry stage etc. Â? c"*  -  %'  "       '"   ]

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technical knowledge. They do not have formal textile education,    $    Â&#x2021;=      ==  \  

important to provide them with proper trainings. Current Government Initiatives: Recently, The Union Cabinet under the Chairmanship of Prime Minister Mr. Narendra Modi announced a special package of Rs. 6000 crores towards employment generation and promotion of exports in Textile and Apparel sector. The move comes in the backdrop of the package of reforms announced by the Government for generation of one crore jobs in the textile and apparel industry over next 3 years. The majority of new jobs are likely to go to women since the garment industry employs nearly 70% women workforce. Thus, the package would help in social transformation through women empowerment. In past, with a view to address the manpower requirement of

the diverse textile and related segments, the Ministry of Textiles introduced pilot phase of Integrated Skilled Development Scheme (ISDS) in the last two years of the 11th Five Year Plan Year 2010-11. Subsequently, the scheme has been scaled up during the 12th plan with the targets of skilling 15 lakhs persons by the end of March 2017 (;; @ = 3'5 It is important to address the issue of current scarcity of work = 

"        $      derstand entire textile value chain thoroughly & study the current demand supply gap of workforce in each segment starting from "   "   = " %    $"   

the skill sets required for each sector. The course content should be designed accordingly. In fact, while designing the course content, focus should be more on practical knowledge rather than theoretical knowledge. Though Textile is one of the most ancient industries in India, it is not perceived as a profession in the same way as it is perceived 30 years back. Many youngsters are seemed to be turn" ='    ^ \ = \      $   ^

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put on changing mindset of youngsters towards Textile Industry. In fact, Technical Textiles is the major growing sector having estimated growth rate of 20% CAGR in India, so we should focus more on Technical Textiles now. It should be included as a mandatory subject as a part of curriculum. This will help in creating awareness amongst youngster. Apart from technical knowledge, there should be emphasis on soft skills as well as leadership skills development. First step in carving the future action plan is we need to project the future requirement of workforce in India & analyze whether the 

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up total industryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s future manpower demand. If demand-supply is considerable, then we need to increase number of seats. In fact, we also need to analyse future growth segments in textile sector & accordingly redesign the course content. About SUVIN Today, Suvin is one the major consultancies in India working towards the growth of the IndianTextile Industry addressing industryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s issues timely. Suvin has understood the need of the hour for Â&#x2021;=  

  == ' < Â&#x2C6; = tive world, skilled manpower plays very crucial role in the success   = \  "       = Âş  $= =

Suvin can assist the industry to identify suitable workforce& conduct training programs for various levels. Suvin has associated with Werner International, USA for training workforce & increasing ef$= = Âş   = \ =   "  = [ â&#x20AC;˘ HR Solutions â&#x20AC;˘ Soft Skills development â&#x20AC;˘ Training Programs

â&#x20AC;&#x153;I= Â? # 9 7 ( =9 c7+  Â?$ 3!X !$ #3 7(#7 != Â? #

PICK IT UP IT DIES AND IT CEASES TO BE WHAT YOU LOVE. SO IF YOU LOVE A FLOWER, LET IT BE. LOVE IS NOT ABOUT POSSESSION. LOVE IS ABOUT APPRECIATION.

Â&#x201D;

July 2016

www.textilevaluechain.com

35


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!  !' =  =  !  4- Mr. Arvind Sinha  Q Ă&#x2026;  ŠÂ&#x2122;£¨ Â&#x160;ÂŻÂ&#x203A;Â&#x2122;Â&#x17E;¢¼ ¸Â&#x17E;Â&#x2122;§£Â&#x17E;Â&#x17E; Â&#x160;ÂŻÂ&#x203A;Â&#x2122;Â&#x17E;¢¼Â&#x17E; Â&#x201A;¼¢¸¤ [Â&#x161;Â&#x2122;¢§Â&#x2DC;Â&#x17E;Â&#x2122;§ŠÂ&#x2DC;Â&#x; Â&#x2014;Â&#x2DC;Â&#x2122;Â&#x161; ¥¢Â&#x2014;

New structures and issuers and greater standardization are pushing issuance in the global sukuk market. Sukuk issuance in 2014 is estimated at $130 billion, with outstanding issuance continuing to grow. The sukuk market remains largely sovereign and quasi-sovereign issuers, but private-sector =   

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tap local and regional funds. This move is facilitating more intrare" ]   Â&#x201A; =     Â&#x160; == "  \ 

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this type of issue in late 2012, and others have followed, including Dubai Islamic Bankâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s perpetual $1 billion Tier 1 sukuk in March 2013. Perpetual tenor debt has no maturity date, but generally is callable Â&#x2018;= 

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($844 million) structured covered sukuk commodity murabaha pro"   

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= bles. Perpetual sukuk, pioneered by Abu Dhabi Islamic Bank, are increasingly being issued by corporates. Saudi premium food group Â&#x160;     $ } 

\      '' 

late 2013. Corporates in Malaysia and the Middle East are increasingly using intangible assets in innovative sukuk structures. This includes airtime vouchers, broadband units and intellectual property. Banks in the Middle East are seeing increased interest from non-Islamic corporates for sukuk issuance, and it is an area that they want to

36

grow. #  

  

 

$  

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The UK government, aiming to become a Western center for Is= $=   =  $  =    <=   

issue a sovereign sukuk. The ÂŁ200 million ($302 million) issue was well-received by investors from the Middle East, Asia and the UK.  ''    }<Â&#x20AC;  Â&#x2018; }=' Â&#x2019;  = Â&#x201D; 

payments on property providing the income for investors. {" Â&#x192;"     ''  '   Â&#x2022;Ž­Â&#x201D; " Ă&#x192;­    " ''   $ } 

    =   Q

Asian countries that issued sovereign sukuk in 2014 included Malaysia, Indonesia and Pakistan. The Indonesian transaction represented an important innovation in the way that sovereigns can issue sukuk to fund public infrastructure development projects, notes UAE-based partner of White Âş Â   \

Â&#x160;  <  Â&#x2022;Ž­ \ Â&#x160; = =   $ 

sovereign sukuk, a $500 million issue. Part of its aim is to diversify its funding sources and tap into the wealth of the GCC. Morocco, Tunisia and Kenya are likely to issue sukuk going forward. Gambia has already issued a short term, local currency sukuk, as have Nige   \  \  "

    Ă&#x192;Â&#x2022;ÂŽÂŽ    $ 

local currency Islamic bond in early 2014. In late 2014, Luxembourg issued a â&#x201A;Ź200 million ($254 million) sukuk. There remains a strong pipeline of sukuk issuance, particularly on the sovereign side. Demand should remain solid in 2015, although the current weak oil price may delay issuance. Both the UK and Hong Kong sovereign issues have been important, according   Â&#x201A;}  '           $ 

recognition of sukuk. HARIAH-COMPLIANT? +  ( ) ') Â&#x;(Â&#x2022;5 As foreign issuers tap = 

"    ="    " ] Â&#x160;" <= $=" =   ^ 



      ==   <= $="

products. Baiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; al â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;inah, where there is a transaction of buying and  "     =

  $=   

such product. In Malaysia the shariah scholars allowed it despite the fact that they agree that the majority of scholars and Islamic $=      =  =  

 blance to a loan. Shariah-compliant credit cards and mortgages have grown strongly over the past few years in the Middle East. Banks, including Dubai Islamic Bank (DIB), have seen Islamic credit card issu= =  "$= <  ' =  \ 

    

  "  <= $="  = =

of the bankâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s shariah products is reviewed and approved by worldrenowned shariah scholars. Islamic banks, including Abu Dhabi Islamic Bank, Emirates Islamic Bank, Noor Bank and Al Hilal Bank, are all keen to gain market share from conventional banks, particularly on the consumer bank-

www.textilevaluechain.com

July 2016


*/2%$/)2&86 ing side. Islamic banking has received a considerable boost, with  }= $=  =   =   ""  $

greater acceptance and recognition in the general market, according to Faisal Aqil, the deputy chief executive of consumer wealth management at Emirates Islamic Bank. \= =      <= $="  = 

observers have called for a global central religious authority to ensure IFIs comply with shariah on a uniform, global basis. This sug"    Â&#x2021;=     =   

    =    ==   $=  

such as those promulgated by the Basel Committee, there is room 

     Nonetheless, the sukuk market is becoming more harmonized with common standards, which is a comfort to investors and issuers worried about the risks associated with such products, and should spur further sukuk issuance. The increase in cross-border transactions should lead to greater convergence between sukuk markets and a more consistent approach to the shariah compliance of sukuk structures. REAL ESTATE FINANCING >           = 

<= $=ing transactions. Islamic mortgages for house purchases are common, but more-sophisticated commercial transactions are becoming increasingly prevalent. <= $=     

       "   =  =    $=  =   =

          Â&#x201D;

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buildings. However, over the past few years, Islamic banks have = "      Â&#x201C;Â&#x201C; $= < =  = 

a conventional bank lends the majority of the debt on an interest payment basis, the investors inject their equity, and the mezzanine $=  =      =   <=}=

way. In the UAE real estate sector, DIB has one of the largest market    = =

  $="    "  dustry by providing credit facilities to major local and international contracting and engineering companies. DIB plays a major role in supporting real estate developments. Its work includes acting for a =    Ă&#x2020;ÂŹÂŽÂŽ   =  $="   tersea Power Station in London. ` Â&#x2C6;   '

=    = 

 $="

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for 3.65 billion Qatari riyals (over $1 billion), and the facilities include "     '" = $=" Â&#x160;

  

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on this deal was Qatar International Islamic Bank.  <= $=    ^ =   = Ă&#x192;Â&#x2022; ­  lion at year-end 2014, with banking assets of $1.6 trillion. An annual growth rate of between 15% and 20% is likely to be maintained in the next few years, with growth being driven by an increasing range   =  $="  =Â&#x2020;   

== =  

type of funding.

1(:6 c" ;  )     ;  ~Â&#x20AC;Â )    '' *

' *  -";' + )  ) ) !!Â&#x2014;( ;* A study conducted by Prof Dheeraj Sharma and Prof Rajesh Chandwani of IIM Â&#x160;   Âż{  \     =

on Psychological Aspects of Workers in Indiaâ&#x20AC;? suggests that there is a direct correlation of thermal comfort at work place    =   =    'ers. The research also highlights the urgent need for the policymakers and concerned organisations to extend the scope of climate change and ambient temperature discourse to include workersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; concerns. Concerns about heat stress have become especially relevant with deteriorating climatic conditions. Tropical countries ' <  '   

   

health hazards and productivity losses due to rising temperatures. Studies have shown that heat stress can not only cause physical health hazards but can also have negative impact on the mental and psychological health of the workers and hence it calls for immediate attention by state and central government, policy makers, employee welfare bodies and organizations to address this issue. The insights of the study holds "$=  =   < "ernment is attempting to emphasize the growth of manufacturing sector through

July 2016

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Make in Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; initiative for sustainable growth in the economy. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Little attention has been devoted to   =  = "     

worker productivity and health. Our study attempts to quantify the improvement in productivity that can be gained through establishment of cooling solutions at indoor workplaces. Indeed, according to our study, worker productivity can be enhanced up to 12% by increasing the level of thermal comfort at the workplace,â&#x20AC;? said Prof Dheeraj Sharma, IIMâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Ahmedabad. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Though there is substantial evidence that extreme temperatures in the work= =     =   = 

there is little consensus regarding an ideal temperature at workplace. The optimal temperature for worker performance may vary. However, in the tropical countries, most of the studies have found that the optimal range of ambient temperature for enhanced worker productivity is about 2530 degree Celsius,â&#x20AC;? said Prof Rajesh Chandwani, IIM-Ahmedabad. Key insights from the study The rising environmental and the workplace temperatures due to climate change has been a major concern for a decade

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now. The recent UNDP report (UNDP 2016) reiterates the fact that higher workplace         "$= 

of productivity- If the global temperature change continues at 4 degrees Celsius (business as usual), India will lose about 13.60% of daylight work hours by 2085 for work at 300 W. Our study attempts to quantify the improvement in productivity that can be gained through establishment of cooling solutions at indoor workplaces. The "  "$=   Â&#x201A;  

is attempting to emphasize the growth of manufacturing sector through â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Make in Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; initiative for sustainable growth in the economy. Following are the key insights from the study 1. Worker productivity can be enhanced by up to 12 per cent by increasing the level of thermal comfort at the workplace. 2. The study emphasizes the regulatory support for preventive measures such as use of Information and communication technologies and other technologies for encouraging modernized agricultural practices.

37


&203$1<)2&86

Resil Chemicals won a prestigious National Award from the Technology Development Board, Department of Science and Technology, Government of India, for the successful commercialization of an indigenous technology, N9 Pure Silver TM. The Honourable President of India, Shri, Pranab Mukherjee presented this award, which includes a cash prize of Rs.10 lakhs and a trophy to Mr. M S Vijayan, Joint Managing Director, Resil Chemicals on Technology Day, 11 May 2016, at Vigyan Bhawan, New Delhi. Mr. M S Mohan, Managing Director and Mr. Ganesh Srinivasan, Executive Director â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Innovation were part of the felicitation ceremony. Dr.Harsh Vardhan, Honourable Union Minister for Science and Technology and Dr. Ashutosh Sharma, Secretary, Department of Science and Technology were also present at the event.  ="   =         Â&#x2020;  

= $=

inquiry, technological creativity and the translation of that quest in the integration of Science, Society and Industry. This day is also celebrated to honour technological innovations and their successful commercialization, which makes fruits of research reach people at large. This award recognizes excellence in collaboration, indigenous technology development and commercialization. N9 Pure SilverTM was featured on the BBC: Ă&#x2C6;U  \       Â { Â&#x201C;  ]"

science and technology program airing on BBC World News. It was also featured on allied channels across the world. (   ')  ;   ¢ 3 '$5 ¢ 3

SilverTM   =   "  $     = 

garments. It is a revolutionary particulate Silver-based technology that, on contact, neutralizes odour-causing bacteria, keeping textiles fresher for longer. This breakthrough technology delivers outstanding odour control performance, combined with impeccable environmental credentials and safety pro$ N9 Pure SilverTM, a globally patented technology, consists of pure metallic silver in ultra-pure deionized water. The actual silver loading in each gram of N9 Pure \   =   {    =$"     Ă&#x2C6;U  \   =  '    "  = 

neutralizing bacteria and other microbes even with this low silver loading.

blends Safe: o Safe on skin o Does not leach as it is strongly bound o Bacteriostatic o Gently defensive o OEKO-TEX listed. Gentle on the environment: o Non-leaching chemistry (It remains intact on the treated textile and works to protect it from bacteria and other microbes this means that there is minimal loss of silver in to the environment or onto the skin.) o Minimal silver loading o Low release through wash o Zero VOC N9 Pure SilverTM not only keeps the treated surface hygienic,            '   ^   }

      $ = [ y Users of treated garments do not need to rely on strong deodorants or perfumes to create an aura of all-day freshness even in a tropical country â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the garment does it for you. y

Garments remain fresh for longer, over multiple uses by providing odour control.

y

Treated garments may be washed less often, conserving water, energy and preserving the quality and appearance of the garment. More wears with less washing.

¢ 3 '£    ' *  ') * %' 

  ;;'Â? ') '5 The potential presented by N9 Pure Silverâ&#x201E;˘ is immense. From articles of daily use, such as clothing, and bed linen, to inner wear, jeans wear, work wear, Military wear, hospital textiles, uniforms and active wear, formals, socks, knits and towels - the opportunities are vast, making it an ideal solution for several industries.

q * ¢ 3 '$5 Easy to apply: o Can be applied by padding, spray, coating and exhaust o Stable in application conditions o Negligible yellowing on whites        =  

 ^ $  < ;* 5  {"  = "}"   [ ¡Ž œ   o Tested against a wide range of bacteria following internationally recognized test protocols o Compatible with multiple substrates: cotton, synthetics and

38

www.textilevaluechain.com

July 2016


&203$1<)2&86

A.T.E. â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Savio Customer Days A.T.E. and SavioMacchineTessili, Italy, recently organized a series of â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Customer Daysâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; across India, to announce the tie-up between the two companies. A.T.E. has become the sole selling agent for Savioâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s automatic winders and TFOs in India from 1 April 2016.  Â&#x2039;Â 

Â&#x2C6;      =    $  

- Ahmedabad on 26 April, Rajkot on 27 April, and Coimbatore on 30 April 2016. These events were a huge success with an overwhelming response from customers at all locations. Mr G V Aras, Director, A.T.E., welcomed the guests on behalf of   =              $

< =      "

Â&#x2020;    }]" 

from A.T.E. Mr Franco Bonello, Managing Director, Savio India Ltd explained about the activities at Savioâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Coimbatore factory and

the latest developments in Savio Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bestseller TFOs: Sirius and Cosmos. A key highlight of the events was an interesting presentation made by MrValter DeCarli, Vice President-Sales, Savio, on the recently launched automatic winder Eco-Pulsar S. The Eco-Pulsar S by far is the best automatic winder available in the market today, packed with a number of novel features. Set to revolutionizethe concept of winding, Savioâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Eco-Pulsar S is designed for optimum productivity, unprecedented power savings, high quality packages   ] ^

     ""   

of the art TFO Model Sirius with EDS technology (Electronic Drive system) and new energy saving Spindle ARA. The question and answer session at the end of each event showed the keen interest of the participants in the Savio range of products. The next round of customer days will be held later in the year.

<)  < $ <) $ ! * $% (4+

Switzerland TEXTEST AG, a Switzerland based manufacturer of testing instruments for technical textiles, is proud to introduce the forth generation Hydrostatic Head Tester, the FX 3000 HydroTester IV. With over 1000 delivered units of the previous generations, the FX 3000 series has become the standard instrument for water resistance testing worldwide. The new FX 3000-IV is available        ^

test pressures, ranging from 500 mbar up to 5 bar (50 m water column). All models can be operated with the optional Automatic Drop Detector, which eliminates the need for an operator to watch the sample during the test. This device automatically terminates the test when  $  

          

the sample. An Automatic Level Control is available  $  

 

   $ 

   

$  '      

July 2016

Both options greatly increase the testing ef$= =

The manual clamping mechanism, depending on the model supported by a pneumatic cylinder, provides a constant clamp"  =  =  =      

leakage of water through the sample. Another interesting feature is the completely new user interface (touch-screen)       

evaluate and document the results: The FX 3000 HydroTester IV can be integrated into a network, if desired via Wi-Fi. Using the internal local web server of the instrument and any web browser in the PC, the memory of the instrument can then be accessed from any PC within the network, and a comprehensive test report can be generated. Furthermore, all style informa-

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tion, test parameters, and results can be centrally managed from the network. The FX 3000 HydroTester IV complies to many national and international Standard Test Methods.

39


%5$1')2&86

About Us Boâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;alamo textile India Pvt. Ltd is a manufacturer of Luxury Fabrics for Men under the brand name â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Boâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;alamo â&#x20AC;&#x201C; The Italian Uomoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. Boâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;alamo has been successful in having a pan India presence with more than 2000 retailers, promoting our brand for its quality as well as contemporary designs, which are at par with leading brands. Boâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;alamo â&#x20AC;&#x201C; The ItalianUomo is the brain child of NikeshLodha andYaseerReshamwala, who came together with the intention to provide high quality luxury products for the contemporary Indian professional. The objective was to make available the best of what   =   = 

     "      =

irrespective of the material they choose to complement their style. Towards this end, leading designers from across the globe are engaged to design the exquisitely crafted fabric in line with global as well as local fashion trends. The fabrics are manufactured from premium yarns in our state of the art facility. Boâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;alamo also has tie ups with leading manufacturers of TR and Polywool fabrics in China& Italy. To ensure that our customers get quality fabrics in the agreed time frame, we have invested in an of$=  Â  Q

Â&#x2021;= '   = ='    = = 

with the manufacturers and ensures that the product is delivered on time. Once the product is ready, it goes through a series of quality checks before it is shipped to India, ensuring that we maintain our commitment of superior product and service. Q

    Â&#x2C6;  "      $

design and craftsmanship. We have, and continue to, invest extensively in state of the art facilities for Production and Human resources, to stay on top of the global trends. It is our endeavor to provide the best product and service to our customers and become the most preferred option in the luxury fabric segment at the same time putting into practice our core values of social sustainability and environmentally friendly development. Our Products: Â&#x2C6;   Â&#x2020;  = =        ^=sive designs. Linen, Giza Cotton, TR fabrics and Polywool are the products available. Fabrics are available in yarn dyed, Plain and Prints and are in line with the latest fashion trends across the globe.   "    \   Â   Â  ='  gineering designs, Prints etc. # [  $   

 = ­ŽŽà  #   =  

fabrics are manufactured using high qualityyarns from Belgium, which is known as the best in the world and the fabric is designed by designers from Italy which is known as the fashion capital of the world. Boâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;alamo Linen is available in 40 lea, 60 Lea, 70 Lea, 80 Lea, 100 Lea etc. Giza Cotton: The most premium of cottonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, Giza Cottonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s are   " "   = $

  " = < 

the longest, thinnest, strongest and most has the best uniformity index. Meaning the irregularities are minimal, therefore producing a very smooth and silky look and feel when woven into fabric. Yarns, imported from Egypt are treated, dyed and then weaved

40

into quality fabrics in our manufacturing facility. Boâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;alamo Giza Cotton is available in 50s, 60s, 70s, 100s, 120s, 140s, 2/80s, 2/100s, 2/120s etc. TR :To cater to our customers who live in extreme climates, Â&#x2C6;   > \" * = Â&#x160;    

 >

is another trendsetter for menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s suiting fabrics.TR fabrics retain the properties of breathability and smoothness of Rayon and crease resistant and strength of polyester. Tr Suiting Fabrics are imported from China where we have tie-ups with leading manufacturers. Polywool : Blends of polyester and wool, Polywool Suiting fabric retains the beautiful drape and feel of wool, while the polyester adds durability and resistance to wrinkles. Boalamo imports fabrics from Italy and China and are available in counts starting from 130â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, 140â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, 160â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s etcâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Vision: y To be the most loved and trusted luxury fabric brand. y

Mission To manufacture Fabrics that is of impeccable quality.

y

Ensure that Fabric designs are in tune with the latest global and local fashion.

y

On time delivery of products.

y

Quick resolution of grievances to the satisfaction of all.

y

To attain highest level of work ethics.

Â&#x2021;= = {  < "  Âş   =   

dealings with all stakeholders including employees, distributors, retailers and consumers.

MR. YASEER RESHAMWALA FOUNDER

MR. NIKESH LODHA FOUNDER

www.textilevaluechain.com

July 2016


%5$1')2&86

!  !' =  (!!' 

First Store in India Â&#x17D;Â&#x17D; ; =';   +  q  ~Â&#x161;   

") Â?Â?

CADINI, a fashion brand synonymous with premium Italian  " 

   =   $  ]"   <  Â laba, Mumbai. CADINI has embarked upon an investment of Rs. 15 crore for its retail foray and is poised to open 10-15 stores during this year in the high streets and destination shopping malls of metro cities including Mumbai, Delhi, Pune, Bangalore, Chennai and Kolkata. Founded in 1970 and celebrated for its high quality and timeless â&#x20AC;&#x153;Made in Italyâ&#x20AC;? style, CADINI has shown, since the beginning, great promise as a renowned manufacturer in the menswear sector. CADINI impeccably crafts the â&#x20AC;&#x153;total lookâ&#x20AC;? for the quintessential man and is an internationally sought-after menswear fashion brand with presence across 40 countries. In pursuit of expanding its global footprint, CADINI is establishing its presence in India as part of the Global Venture of Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest and most preferred menswear brand â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Siyaramâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s. \ "      =   $  ]"  

Mumbai,   3 +    +

Siyaram Silk Mills Ltdsaid, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s menswear segment registered a retail value growth of 15% in 2015 with sales touching Rs. 1.3 trillion. Today, Indian male consumers are concerned about their looks and appearance and are willing to spend more on apparel and accessories. To tap this market opportunity, CADINI is bringing the best of Italian menswear dressing accessible across 15,000 sq. ft of retail footprint across metros in India within the course of this year.â&#x20AC;?  ''  '' =''+   + (!! ]    = 

 \ =   Âż%  =   $ 

]"   < Â Â&#x160;<Ă&#x2C6;<   " "  "   =

 "     <  \

] =  = =teristics of CADINI in its interiors and merchandise as part of bringing the globally admired CADINI experience to the Indian consum   

"    <   

 =  "

Our joy is doubled with the presence of the Consul General of Italy -Mr. Ugo Ciarlatani and Ms. Simonetta Bartolomei, Commercial Attacheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; - ' 4' Â?!'Â&#x201D; Inaugurating the Store Launch, honourable Consul General of Italy -Mr. Ugo Ciarlatani said, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Italy and India are known to be =     $  ^     "

    

=

=   "    Â Â&#x160;<Ă&#x2C6;<      =  

of trendsand traditionand todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s store launch amongst many to come is a positive step towards bringing the best of Italian dressing that is recognized world-over to Indian consumers. I congratulate Ms. Daniella Nicolle Faralli and Mr. Ramesh Poddar and wish CADINI all the best and look forward to it creating its unique space in the burgeoning fashion industry in India.â&#x20AC;?    !)+ (  Â&#x2014;; + (!! Â&#x;4Â&#x2022;

added, â&#x20AC;&#x153;CADINI is targeting SEC A+ audience across the leading metro cities with an estimated revenue potential of Rs. 125 crore with the retail foray with each store having on an average an area of 1000-1200 sq. ft. Initially, CADINI stores will be company owned     \ Â&#x2020;  Â Â&#x160;<Ă&#x2C6;< 

     chise model as well.â&#x20AC;?

July 2016

www.textilevaluechain.com

CADINI is positioned to gratify the luxury needs of the Indian man who is rooted to his rich cultural heritage and values. Its edge     " "}Â&#x2020; Â&#x2020;   

   spired from the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Made in Italyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; concept and to a substantial extent is Made in India leading to the best of Italian innovation and Indian manufacturing excellence. About CADINI: Incepted in 1970 in the pristine region of Florence, Italy, CADINI has continuously sustained a great passion for style, quality and research and has evolved as one of the most sought after brands from Italy with its presence in 40 countries worldwide. CADINIâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bespoke collection of menswear exude ĂŠlan, as quality craftsmanship   =  =           = Ă&#x160;" ~

trios. The word â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;CADINIâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; stands for the name of mountains â&#x20AC;&#x153;ilGruppodeiCADINI di Misurinaâ&#x20AC;?, close to the lake of Misurina in Cortina (Northern Italy). It is a group of dolomites, which have exclusive variety of rocks, types of hills and valley. The name is coherent with =Â&#x2C6; ^Â&#x2020;  =  " Â Â&#x160;<Ă&#x2C6;<Â&#x2C6; #"  



picture of a styled etruscan bronze horse, a strong symbol in the Etruscan Culture representing strength and power, much similar        =$  =     Â Â&#x160;<Ă&#x2C6;<  

an exclusive range of fabrics in 100% long staple cotton, 100% Giza cotton, 100% linen, wool cashmere, wool-silk-linen, 100% Silk, wool blends, jacketing fabrics in 100% Linen & TR etc. With its foray in India as part of Siyaramâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Global Ventures, CADINI is trying to touch upon the expectations of the discerning Indian, who is closely identical to an Italian in terms of giving importance to their respective heritage, values and beliefs. Eventually, CADINI is planning to create a distinctive positioning for itself in the Indian market with its quality products.

41


32676+2:5(3257 2nd DEFENCE-ITTA JOINT EXHIBITION CUM SEMINAR ON TECHNICAL TEXTILE held on 15th and 16th JUNE 2016 in DELHI. The Indian Technical Textile Association (ITTA) in association with Indian Defence, organized a two day Exhibition cum Seminar on Technical Textile on 15th and 16th JUNE 2016 at Ashoka Convention Hall at Manekshaw Center, Delhi. This is the second edition of the Defence-ITTA joint Exhibition cum Seminar on Technical Textile was attended by more than 250 delegates from both the Indian Army and the Technical Textiles and footwear Industry. The exhibition showcased the entire technical textile and Footwear products developed by various manufacturers showing the           =     <

Army. Some of the prominent exhibitors are- Shiva Texyarn, Raymond, Garware, Kusumgar, Euro safety, Ardmel Group-UK, NTC, NITRA, CTM, Strata Geosystem, Prosafe, RSWM, Renfro India, Ferreterro, etc. In addition, Indian Army, DRDO, BRO, OEF, OPF and other Departments displayed their entire range of products currently used by them.

Session 1 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; INAUGURAL SESSION The two day seminar cum exhibition was inaugurated by Lt Gen Ravi Thodge, PVSM, AVSM, SM, VSM, Master General of Ordinance.     $     *  Â&#x2022;Ž­²     = "

with the Indian Technical Textile Association (ITTA), which resulted into more Transparency, entry of new vendors with latest technology into defence supply. He expressed his happiness on the achievements of the earlier interaction and wanting the scope to be widened with inclusion of Buildtech, Collective Protection, Meditech & footwear this year. Smt. Anu Garg (IAS), Joint Secretary, Ministry of Textile, was the â&#x20AC;&#x153;Guest of Honourâ&#x20AC;? She congratulated Lt. Gen. Thodge and the entire Defence Team for seizing this opportunity and to ITTA for organising the event. She informed that â&#x20AC;&#x153;Technical Textiles is a huge priority for the Govt. as on emerging sunrise sector, we want Technical textiles to get their rightful place in the overall basket. At present India represents only 3% of the global Technical Textiles Industry, less than 5% of the global technical textiles production, 4% of the exports of technical textiles world over, Imports $1.4bn worth of Technical Textiles, our per capita consumption of technical textiles is 1.7 kg viz-a-viz 10-12 kg in developed countries and Technical Textiles comprises only 11% of Indian textile industry as compared to 27% globally and 50% in some developed countries. Having said that, One can see possibilities for Make in India, for import substitution, for export promotion & for increased consumption.â&#x20AC;? Govt. of India has taken several initiatives to harness this potential, such as in the recently launched Amended TUFs, Technical Textile has    $      

    "  º ­²à =

subsidy is being provided, schemes for promoting Agro-textiles & Geotextiles in the North East, recently duty rationalization for se =  = $   =  Mr. Pramod Khosla, Chairman, ITTA, welcomed the delegates and highlighted that the 1st Defence ITTA Seminar had been highly successful resulting in close cooperation and indignation of large number if products. He also narrated the ITTAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s contributions during the last couple of years to the growth of various segments of Indian Technical Textile Industry and the objective of this seminar. Dr. S. K. Sundararaman, Vice Chairman, ITTA, spoke about Defence-ITTA relationship. He also talked about ITTA being a group of more than 300 Technical Textile Companies has the capability to provide the required solutions to the Defence Sector, the Joint

42

Seminar cum Exhibition provided the necessary for a successful partnership between the Defence forces and the Technical Textile Industry. Dr. Anup Rakshit, Executive Director, ITTA, said that with the support of the Ministry of Textiles and its members, ITTA has attained a new height. ITTA created a platform to connect the technical textile industry with defence sector by organising three seminars- cum- exhibitions during the last one year with Indian Army and Navy. He also extended a vote of thanks to all dignitaries, speakers, exhibitors and delegates who have participated the 2nd Defence-ITTA Joint Exhibition cum Seminar. Session 2 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; â&#x20AC;&#x153;ARMY REQUIREMENTS OF CLOTHING SCME & FOOTc7(Â&#x201D; The Second technical session was chaired by Maj Gen BV Rao, Additional Director General, Equipment Management. The following presentations were made during this session. â&#x20AC;˘ Budget Outlay by Col JS Sidhu, Director Budget Cell spoke about the army budget for the FY 2016-17. He informed that the budget for GS&C is Rs.2857 Cr out of which the DGOF got Rs.2100 Cr and EX-Trade got Rs. 757 Cr budget. But a large proportion of the cloth and accessories are purchased by DGOF from the industry. â&#x20AC;˘ *  ;  ;   by Brig GS Shan, Deputy Director General OS (GS&C) briefed about the objective of type of procurement, procurement setup, sources of supply, DGQA, revenue procurement and payment terms for sellers. â&#x20AC;˘ ; ' ' @  7Â&#x201E;;  7% ' 'mate Clothing Items by Col AS Chonker, VSM. He highlighted that the requirement of special clothing and mountaineering equipments will increase to 38,229 sets for Indian army. He spoke on the procurement procedure for SCME EX Import and also added the some products improvement, introduction of new products i.e. Avalanche airbag, Tugger shoes, etc. â&#x20AC;˘   * 3  + 3   !;+ 3  *

- '+ 7)     *   7%; 

from Industry by Mr. Prakash Agrawal, Jt GM, OFB emphasized about the OFB and its operations. He also explained about the Q * {` Â&#x192;Â&#x160;Ă&#x2C6;Â&#x201E;>    =  $      

they will achieve a projected growth of 18.39% in FY. 2016-17. â&#x20AC;˘ 9 $   =- ;;' ' * *  =  by Mr. Jeetesh Gidwani, GM, Euro Safety Footwear spoke on the global trends in footwear construction and also explained about the        

     =" Â&#x201E; 

& formal shoes and all weather shoes. Session 3 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; â&#x20AC;&#x153;COLLECTIVE PROTECTION, TENTAGE, LOAD CARRY!4 =(! @ !#$!  = 3 #$ !$ Â&#x201D; The third session was chaired by Brig SC Tandi, Commandant C O D, Kanpur and four papers were presented. â&#x20AC;˘ Â&#x201E; * ''  3  @ 9 ) = 

by Col Sanjay Sinha, Director OS (GS&C) highlighted about the inventory management, types of stores which maintains an inventory of 4.5 lakh items. He also spoke of Life cycle clothing (LCC), Trade items and product improvement.

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July 2016


32676+2:5(3257 â&#x20AC;˘    * ''  3  & Load Carrying Fabrics by Mr. S. J. Rao, Sr. VP, Garware Wall Ropes highlighted   $  = =   =     =   erties and criteria for selection, types of material used and its   = 

< Â&#x160; 

â&#x20AC;˘ !; ) ÂŚ  by Mr. Naresh Ummat, 

= Â ]" Â&#x2018;Â&#x2019; # { '      

    = '

\ = Â ]" Ă&#x2C6;  \ =

 ]" Ă&#x2C6;   <>   =   }UÂŽ  }  = 

= =]"    < Â&#x160;  â&#x20AC;˘ (  * ! )   §')  § " '  by Mr. Arunabh Chawdhury, Jt. Controller, DGQA. He explained that Quality Assurance for Defence Textiles involves Womb to Tomb responsibility. He also spoke on Technological advancements, indigenization of specialty products, Industry assistance and DGQA services. â&#x20AC;˘ 3   *    3      by CSD Adelphi, Mumbai briefed about the CSD (Canteen Services Directorate). {   Â&#x160;  "  UÂŽĂ     $   ""  

process of introduction, eligibility for registration as vendor, documents required and its quality control in CSD.  ¨ Š Â&#x201C;7!(9 $78$!97 ( 3 $7$!7 9 $<!4Â&#x201D; The fourth session was chaired by Brig Subodh Mulgund, Dy Â&#x201A;Â&#x160;*\ Â&#x2018;\ Â&#x2019;  $        â&#x20AC;˘   ' $%' by Lt Col Rishi Raj, Jt. Director, Armed Forces Medical Services Directorate highlighted about the First Tri Service Organisation of the Armed Forces i.e. Armed Forces Medical Services. He talked about the Medical Textile- its challenges, future requirements like smart textiles and its market estimated to be USD 289.5 million in 2012 and expected to exceed USD 1,500 million by 2020. â&#x20AC;˘      ' $%' * *  =  by Mr. Alan Â&#x2C6;Â&#x160;  Â&#x192;Q  = ^       =

textiles products which can be used for defence such as compression bandage for trauma, absorbent wound dressing pads, Foam dressings, Hydrogel dressings, Silver dressings, etc and its   $ â&#x20AC;˘ 3  $%' by Dr. Arindam Basu, Director General, NITRA briefed about the need for Protective textiles, detailed description about the extreme cold weather clothing, Electrically heated garments, Flame retardant garments, Interactive Cam]"  \ 

  "} " * = \  Â&#x201E; 

and Ballistic Protection used for Defence.

hipal Meena CFEES, Delhi highlighted the importance of CFEES (Centre for Fire, Explosive & Environment Safety) (DIFR). He talked about the textile products developed by CFEES such as > ] = Â&#x160;   Ă&#x2C6;} ] = $   = 

etc. and added the highlights of current ongoing projects at CFEES and latest trends in Protective clothing.  Â&#x161; Š Â&#x201C;47 $78$!97 ( #!9!4 $78$!97Â&#x201D;  $  ==    =   Â&#x20AC; Â&#x201A;  \  \ Â&#x192;

ADGW (Army). The following presentations were made during this session. â&#x20AC;˘ 4%' Â&#x201E; by Col Aditya Sharma, Engineers (BRO). He talked that BRO has grown with 18 projects till now. He also spoke about the importance, its role and tasks, achievements and deployment of BRO projects and its recent initiatives. He highlighted some of the Geotextiles projects such as Deepak, Vartak, Swastik, etc. â&#x20AC;˘ 4%'    *  by Mr. Shahrokh Bagli, Â    =" QÂ&#x2021;=  \  Â&#x201A;   { ""  

importance of Geosynthetics i.e. Geotextiles, Geogrids, Geocells, Geonets, etc. and its applications. He also presented the whole range of products produced by Strata and added their clients names such as Indian Army Rajasthan, Defence, Gujarat, etc. â&#x20AC;˘ '   Â&#x201E; by Mr. M. A. Ruperee, Director Arch, E in C Branch presented the buildtech products currently being             =  Â&#x2021;=  =  

them in this sector and invited solutions of these problems from the industry. â&#x20AC;˘ '      * *  by Mr. Sheelam Seth, Sr. VP, SRF Ltd. He explained about the Buildtech products used for Defence. He highlighted that globally Technical textiles is 140 B Â&#x201E;\       =   = =   paulins, disaster tents, Auto canopies, etc. and the recent developments in India.  Â&#x203A; Š Â&#x201C; 9#!4 7! Â&#x201D; The seminar ended with summing up the proceedings by Lt Gen Ravi Thodge, PVSM, AVSM, SM, VSM, Master General of Ordinance. Mr. Amit Agarwal, Hon Secretary, ITTA, extend a vote of thanks to    =  =

Â&#x2021;=   =    <  =cal industry, Speakers of the seminar and all exhibitors displaying their innovative products in the exhibition.

â&#x20AC;˘ 9  3  ' by Dr. T. H. Goswami, DMSRDE (DRDO), Kanpur. He emphasized about the products developed by DMSRDE i.e. NBC Protective Textile Items, Tent glacier (10-12  Ă&#x2C6;Â&#x2019; \ = =]"   *= \  ´   

Army, Synthetic Life Jacket, Blast protection suit, Boot antimine infantry and Anti riot helmet with visor. â&#x20AC;˘ = *    ' 3*  ' )  9  ; by Ms. Arlene Kidd, Group Director, ARDMEL GROUP, UK. He explained about the Breathability concept and Double Glazing concept for Clothing system. He spoke on the future of smart clothing in the Defence like printed textiles, development of nano-technology, Printed batteries, Combatants, etc. â&#x20AC;˘ Initiatives and Latest Trends in Fire Protective Clothing by Ma-

July 2016

www.textilevaluechain.com

43


32676+2:5(3257  c $  ( Â&#x20AC;Â&#x192;~Â&#x203A; Š  !' - 7% @ * 

2-4 June 2016 at Bombay Exhibition Centre, Mumbai, INDIA

As the Nonwoven Industry in India grew at a very rapid pace, it started dying at an equally fast pace.It was Gujnon Manufacturer Â&#x160;=  Ă&#x2C6;  

$        

a need for an event to spread and raise awareness about Nonwoven products & educate people of its uses through exhibitions and conferences, which in turn would increase consumption , and would help the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;ailingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; industry, and act as a platform, where all   '     Ă&#x2C6;  <  Â&#x2013; Â&#x201E;  \ 

& Manufacturers â&#x20AC;&#x201C; could learn from each other.Thus, the idea of NON WOVEN TECH ASIA was initiated. Gujnon Manufacturer Association of Nonwovens joined hand with Radeecal Communication â&#x20AC;&#x201C; who helped in giving shape to this event. Non Woven Tech Asia 2016, the 3RD International Nonwoven Exhibition, was organized during 02-04 June, 2016 at Bombay Exhibition Centre, Goregaon (E), Mumbai, INDIA. Non Woven Tech Asia 2016 was organized by Radeecal Communications and Gujnon Manufacturer Association of Nonwovens Manufacturer Association of Nonwoven. Non Woven Tech Asia 2016 witnessed more than 6375 visitors from entire India and abroad. This dynamic event on Nonwoven designed for Printing Industry, Bag Industry, Agriculture Industry, Hospitality Industry, Automobile Industry, Filtration Industry, Packaging Industry, Government Departments and for everyone who are willing to take The Next Giant Leap in Nonwovens.

Lightning of Lamp by Dr. Chandan Chatterjeee, General Manager (Project & Technology) at iNDEXTb, Government of followed by Mr. Pramod Khosla, Chairman, Indian Technical Textile Association, Mr. Suresh Patel, President at Gujnon Manufacturer Association of Nonwovens Manufacturer Association of Nonwovens, Mr. Hemil Patel, Secretary at Gujnon Manufacturer Association of Nonwovens Manufacturer Association of Nonwovens, Mr. Aniket Sheth, Vice President at Gujnon Manufacturer Association of Nonwovens Manufacturer Association of Nonwovens and Mr. Sanyal Desai, CEO at Radeecal Communications, Had inaugurated Non Woven Tech Asia 2016 was kept open for the visitors for next three days. Visitors from entire country had visited the exhibition for the empowerment of the Nonwoven Industry.

44

Radeecal Communications, the organizers of Non Woven Tech Asia have announced the dates for the 4th edition â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Non Woven Tech Asia 2017 and is scheduled to be held during 8-9-10 June 2017 at Bombay Exhibition Centre, Mumbai, INDIA State Partner was Government of Gujarat and supported by Industrial Extension Bureau (iNDEXTb), Indian Technical Textile Association (ITTA), Ahmedabad Textile Industryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Research Association (ATIRA), Bombay Textile Research Association (BTRA), DKTE CoE for Nonwoven, Man Made Textile Research Association (MANTRA), The South India Textile Research Association (SITRA), The Synthetic & Art Silk Millsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Research Association !; *  @ =5 â&#x20AC;˘ Participating companies: 73 â&#x20AC;˘ Participation Countries: India, Japan, Switzerland, Belgium, China & Italy â&#x20AC;˘ Visitorsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Countries: India, Japan, China, Malaysia, Taiwan, Nepal, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, U.A.E. & Saudi Arabia â&#x20AC;˘ Total No. of Visitors: More than 6375 About Industry: INDIAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Nonwoven sector, as estimated,is expected to grow at a rate of 25% in the following years. Driving this growth is the rising Standard of Living, owing to the constant improvement in the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Industrialisation Index. In spite of strong growth in recent years, the Nonwoven industry of India is still in its infancy. One such measure to gauge the growth of the Nonwoven Industry is the Nonwoven consumption and its relationship to Per Capita Income. The Consumption/PPP Income (Purchase Power Parity Income) shows a seemingly linear pattern, indicating an increase in the consumption of disposable and durable Nonwoven with rise in the Per Capita Incomes. Once the per capita income reaches a critical level, the consumer spending on disposables will start to show "$= "  

  [      ing to work, and with the rise in incomes, disposable products like baby diapers and wipes come within the reach of more consum       =          

standard of living. With the Indian economy poised for substantial growth in the coming decade, the Nonwoven Industry may see good times ahead. Although, the Government has taken several initiatives to drive the growth of NON WOVEN (Technical Textiles) in India, there are still certain issues that hamper its growth and penetration levels, leading to a market that has not been exploited to its full potential, till date. The worldwide Nonwoven Industry has grown steadily at about 8 % per annum (in tonnage) in the last decade. While the growth for the Nonwoven Industries in North America, Europe and Japan has relatively slowed down with maturity, these countries are still " "    ²à 

 Â&#x160; "$=     wide Nonwoven expansion is due to the rising demand for these materials, owing to the expansion of emerging economies like Asia. India and China, clearly, are the key players contributing to

www.textilevaluechain.com

July 2016


32676+2:5(3257 this growth. As Nonwoven and Technical Textiles have been considered to be the most promising and dynamic segment of the Textile Industry, the demand and consumption of Nonwovens and Technical Textiles will grow enormously in the near future.The current Indian production levels in Nonwovens are miniscule, compared to the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Developed Nationsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; standards. The production level is expected to touch 1.0 Million Tons in 10 years, which would mean a very high growth rate for the industry.

PRODUCT LAUNCH AT NON WOVEN TECH ASIA

Â&#x160;QÂ&#x201A; =  

"  $ "

 =    

"

House Filtration for the Indian Market, at Non Woven Tech Asia 2016, Mumbai. These brands are â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Fiberlox, Duotech, Checkstatic, Glasstech and Mircofelt. Team AOG informed at the launch that the technology and processes required to manufacture these brands were an integral part of acquisition of Andrew Industries. With the launch of these brands AOG has the largest portfolio of world class products manufactured in India to exacting global standards

Mamata Launches Worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Fastest Non Woven Bag Making Machine @ 210 Cycles per Minute Mamata Machinery Pvt. Ltd. is Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest manufacturer and exporter of plastic bag and pouch making machines. Mamata has an installed base of over 3700 machines working in 75 countries and is a winner of many awards for export excellence

July 2016

www.textilevaluechain.com

from the Government of India. PP non woven bag manufacturing in India has faced multiple challenges due to non availability of reliable and high output bag making machines. Mamata is pleased to announce launch of its bag making machine for converting PP non woven fabric into bags. Mamata has used all its experience and the latest servo technology to design worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fastest bag making machine capable of running up to 210 cycles per minute. This machine is on display and running live production at Booth No. P 28, Hall 5 at Non Woven Tech Asia 2016 Exhibition, June 2 - 4, 2016.  3 ;   c $  ( Â&#x20AC;Â&#x192;~Â&#x203A;5 Â&#x160; = Ă&#x2039;=    Ă&#x152;  $  ^ Â&#x2018;Â&#x2019;   " 

  $  =  #   = ´    

(p) limited, ambica jute mills ltd., arvind og nonwoven pvt ltd, atira [ahmedabad textile industryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s research association], atlas chemi= =   ] ^='  #    =  = ers pvt. Ltd., autotech nonwovens pvt ltd, btra [the bombay textile research association], centre of excellence for medical textile (coe- medical textiles) the south india textile research association, custage marketing solutions llp, dakota chemical india pvt. Ltd., dkteâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s textile & engineering institute (dkte coe in nonwovens), dn associates, elpie engineers pvt ltd, fair deal engineers, feather      $      ] ^" 

india press, four square media pvt. Ltd., gold packaging, gujnon manufacturer association of nonwovens, igmatex magazine, indextb (industrial extension bureau), innovative media and information company-textil value chain media, itta [indian technical textile association], kamtronics technology pvt. Ltd., khosla pro$   '   tion private limited, kp tech machine (india) pvt.ltd. Litel infrared       "   =  ´ Â&#x20AC; =   =   vate limited., m/s. Sahil graphics, mamata machinery pvt. Ltd, mani technitex, mantra [man-made textiles research association], mdc  ^     =  =  = $

=   Âş poligof-micro hygiene india pvt ltd, miyota uv print & pack pvt ltd, om vir print o pack pvt.ltd. Oripol industries limited, patel printing, plast show 2016, polylink polymers ( i ) ltd, pradeep nonwovens, prosper choice import export, pryag polytech pvt ltd, r s polymer india, ruian huabo plastic packaging machinery co., ltd, s c j plastics ltd, sanskar industries pvt ltd, sasmira [the synthetic & art silk millsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; research association ], scap technofab pvt. Ltd., shree radha lifstyles, srivari industries, sun poly bag pvt. Ltd, texon fabrics pvt ltd. , thymas electronics pvt. Ltd. - textest ag, times international, trade4india.com, tradeindia.com, troika packaging solutions llp, ultra nonwoven, vidhi enterprise, vrunda enterprise, world impex =  $  = For more information on Non Woven Tech Asia 2016, please contact Mr. Jigar Chotalia, Head Projects, Radeecal Communications on (079) 26401001/ 2/3 Mobile - +91 9173440725 or visit http://www. nonwoventechasia.com/

45


6+2:&$/(1'$5 July 2016 13-15

National Garment Fair Place:Mumbai/ India, info : www.cmai.in

18-20

IIGF - GARMENT Place : New Delhi/ India, info: http://indiaapparelfair.com/

21-23

F&A - FABRIC Place : New Delhi/ India, info : http://delhi.fnashow.in/

26-28 Fashion Connect Place : Banglore/ India, info: www.fashionconnect.co.in

21-23

Place : Madrid/ Spain, info : www.edana.org 30th

KNIT SHOW 2016 Place : Tirupur/ India, info: www.knitshow.in

13-14

Source India 2016 Place: Surat / India, info: http://www.srtepc.org/gallery/view/13564

17-19

Homtex â&#x20AC;&#x201C;IRAN Place : Tehran/ Iran, info: www.pineex.com

19-20

FESPA MEXICO 2016 Place : MEXICO / North America, info: http://mexico.fespa.com/en/

27-29

Textile Asia International Trade Fair 2016 Place : Lahor/ Pakistan, info: http://textileasia.com.pk/

31-03/09 Textech Bangladesh 2016 International Expo Place : Dhaka/Bangladesh, info: http://textechonline.org/textechbd/

11-13

11-13

Tech Textile India Symposium Place : Mumbai/ India, info : Anshu.Varshney@India.MesseFrankfurt.com

7-9

CAITME Place : Uzbekistan, info: http://www.caitme.uz/

7-9

14-15

 16-18

16-17

FESPA AFRICA Place : Johannesburg, info: www.fespaafrica.com Filtrex India 2016 Place : Delhi/ India, info: http://www.edana.org/education-events/    % 0   0" 2  YARNEX Place : Tirupur/ India, info: www.yarnex.in World Textile Conference

FILTECH 2016 Place: Cologne/ Germany,   7+" +  Inter textile â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Autum Edition Place : Shanghai/ China, info: https://intertextile-shanghai-apparel-fabricsautumn.hk.messefrankfurt.com

12-14

CINTE TECHTEXIL Place: Shanghai/ China, info: www.techtextilchina.com

18-21

IFAI EXPO 2016 Place : CHARLOTTE, NC, info : http://ifaiexpo.com/

21-25

ITMA ASIA + CITME 2016 Place: Shanghai/ China, info : www.itmaasia.com

November 2016 10-12

ICTN 2016 Place : Delhi, India, info : www.textileconferenceiitd.com

15-17

Non Wovens Intermediate Course Place : France, info: www.edana.org

23-26

YFA Place: New Delhi/ India, info: www.yfatradeshow.com

23-25

Textech Indonesia 2016 Place : Jakarta/ Indonesia, info: http://textechonline.org/textechindo/

September 2016 8-9

Digital Textile Conference Place : Milan/ Italy, info: http://dtc.fespa.com/en/

 Â&#x20AC;Â&#x192;~Â&#x203A;

August 2016 7-9

Outlook 2016

  Â&#x20AC;Â&#x192;~Â&#x203A; 1-2

Make in India Conference Place: Mumbai/ India, info: www.textileassociationindia.com

3-8

10th INDIA ITME 2016 Place: Mumbai/ India, info: www.india-itme.com

6-7

Spunbond Advance courses Place : France, info: www.edana.org

8-11

FESPA Eurasia 2016 Place : Istanbul/ Turkey, info: http://eurasia.fespa.com/en/

Place : Mumbai/ India, info: www.textileassociationindia.org

46

www.textilevaluechain.com

July 2016


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JULY 2016 ISSUE  

FASHION & RETAIL...

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