v Interview: ITEMA Weaving / Alidhara Weavetech v Market Report : Export Yarn / EU Market Study / Marriage Muharat v SUSTAINABLE FIBRE : Himalayan Nettle v Show Report : ITMACH 2017 / HEIMTEXTILE 2018 v TECHNICAL ARTICLE : Electrochemical Processing -an eco friendly Technology in Textile
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India's Leading Manufacturer & Exporter of
RAPIER TAPES Picanol/Dornier/Vamatex/Sulzer/Somet
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ITEMA A Weaving Solution Always A Step Ahead Exclusive Interview with Mr Christian Straubhaar – Itema Group Sales and Marketing Director cessful mergers and acquisitions, namely Vamatex and Sulzer, till to become the biggest weaving machines manufacturer in the world. In 2012, the Itema brand was born to put together the best of know-how and excellence of the three historic companies that today represent the foundations of Itema. Christian Straubhaar started his career in 1998 in the USA as Quality Manager at Altech Corporation. In 2000 he came back to his native Country, Switzerland, to start his career in textile companies with the appointment of Leader Organization Manager at Rhodia Industrial Yarns. Starting from 2002, Mr Straubhaar was promoted to Plant Manager position for the polyamide company branch based in Poland. Rhodia promoted in 2003 Mr Straubhaar as Market Manager with worldwide responsibility for sales and marketing of fibres and monofilaments produced respectively in Germany and Poland. Based in Germany, Mr Straubhaar was in charge of an area sales managers team in AsiaPacific, North America and Europe. In 2007 Rhodia entrusted him as investor manager for the LBO (leveraged buyout) operations for the new entity Nexis Fibres AG. Mr Straubhaar joined Itema Group in 2008 as Head of Profit Center for the Swiss branch of the Company. His career in Itema evolved in 2013 with the appointment as COO for Itema Switzerland and in 2015 with the nomination as Spare Parts Business Unit Director. In 2016 Mr Straubhaar was appointed Group Sales & Marketing Director in charge of weaving machines, spare parts and product management departments.
• What inspired you to Start A Company in Textile Machinery and what is Purpose behind it? Everything started in 1967, when the Company Somet was founded in Italy in one of the main textile cradles of the country to provide weaving machines to the numerous weavers based in the area. Since then, the founder (the Radici family, one of the most renowned Italian entrepreneurs) proceeded over the years with a series of sucJanuary 2018
• In which countries/continents do you focus on for exports? What are the reasons behind this choice? Our machines are exported to about 50 countries every year. We provide looms, original spare parts and best-inclass after-sales service to all the textile markets in the world, from African countries to Japan, South Korea, USA, El Salvador, Guatemala passing through the largest textile markets such as China, India, Pakistan, Bangladesh and Turkey. Wherever there is a weaver, Itema is ready to serve him.
• What motivated you to enter into the Indian market? In India the fabric production is traditionally one of the main business areas. Historically, since Somet, Vamatex and Sulzer times, we are providing looms to the Indian weavers. In 2003 we decided to invest in the country and we set up our own organization, Itema India Pvt. Ltd., which today features more than 50 skilled and trained employees based in 4 different locations (Mumbai, Coimbatore, New Dehli, Kolhapur).
• What do you think sets apart your machineries over that of your competitors? The Itema weaving machines are designed, developed and produced to be a tool in the hands of the weavers. Our machines feature the most user-friendly electronic platform that through a full color touch-screen console provides all the machine parameters at your fingertips. Each device is studied to guarantee ease of use and quick settings. Moreover, I would like to underline two main aspects that our Customers recognize to the Itema weaving machines: first, we have the highest textile versatility and fabric quality compared to competition and second, our looms are the most compact in the market providing a
INTERVIEW on and we are satisfied about the results we obtained.
• Could you tell us more about the Green Label certification that your company has received?
looms are the most compact in the market providing a valuable space saving in the mill layout.
• Do you find any difference between the Indian market and the rest of the global market? The Indian textile market is nowadays at the highest levels and some of the largest textile conglomerates are actually based in India. Ofcourse in India the textile industry is divided into different segments that differ a lot from each other. The organized corporate segment is made by structured companies looking for the best equipment in the market to compete at the highest levels in the international market. Whilst the non-organized segment features medium and small companies (that actually compared to the worldwide textile mills size are not even so small…) with a huge growth potential if ready change the mindset and look for advanced technology instead of investing in old, second-hand machineries.
• What all Challenges / Hardship you faced during the journey? Every day presents a new challenge as we constantly strive towards satisfying our customers not just 100% but 110%. The textile machinery market in which we operate is subject to sudden oscillations provoked by multiple factors such as political instability, raw materials crisis or contingent economic situation that afflicts the market demand. What we do as a Company to face this volatile environment is to build a solid and trusted Customer base in the market and to constantly invest in internal improvements to rely on a flexible and agile organization.
• Did you face any operational challenges? If we look back at the past year focusing on India we can say that yes, we had a few challenges to face. Indian market faced some issues due to demonetization and GST introduction and we experienced a slowdown at the beginning of 2017 due to the introduction of the new regulations. Indian entrepreneurs found in any case the best way to deal with these events and we were close to them to support and find the best business solution. The situation for us is today stable in India, investments are going
We are a part of the Sustainable Technologies Providers programme of ACIMIT which is the Italian textile machinery association. The association was the very first in the world to establish such a programmed to encourage textile machinery makers to promote their most sustainable technology offerings, adhering to very strict standards of certification related to emission of machines. The programme and the Green Label are managed by a thirdparty independent auditor and verifier, DNV, which conducts specific tests and evaluate companies in terms of different parameters, including power consumption. So, the Green Label certification is provided only if a company is able to meet these stringent parameters. The certification is very important for us, as we are working towards sustainable developments.
• So, this certification applies only in Italy or is it globally applicable? The certification, although issued in Italy, is valid for the specific certified products and is applicable worldwide. This way a customer who takes very seriously the environmental footprint of acquired technology can be rest assured that a Green Label certified machine has the exact green credentials he or she is looking for.
• What is your take on the future scenario of your segment in the global market? Today we have positive feelings about the future trend of the textile machinery industry and we expect 2018 to be another quite good year for the sector. We foresee stable investments in all the main textile countries and in India we are involved in big, important investment projects that will be finalized during 2018.
• What is your review towards the ITMACH 2017 We are participating at ITMACH with one of the biggest stands in the hall and our airjet weaving machine A9500p on display to show our huge potential and our technical superiority to the Gujarat textile industry, which is one of the main here in India. Moreover, we expect to meet our Surat Customers, where we have an optimal and strong presence. I think that this exhibition has its main value in offering to companies the possibility to display their products exactly where prospects and Customers are.
• What are your future plans? Itema is working to provide the market with advanced weaving solutions and we will continue on this path to be always a step ahead. With a clear mission in mind: our Customers need looms to weave fabric and, if they are looking to offer to their market the best possible fabric quality, Itema is the right partner and supplier.
CONTENT INTERVIEW 9- Mr. Christian Straubhaar and Ms. Valentina Brignoli, ITEMA Weaving 39- Mr. Chintan Thumar, Alidhara Weatech Group
JANUARY 2018 ISSUE
MARKET REPORT 13- Export Yarn Report 14- Domestic Yarn / Cotton Report 15- Marriage Muharat 2018 16- EU Market Report by Textile Committee 17- Top Importing Products of EU from Extra-EU ($ millions) 18- Top Exporters To EU (EXTRA & INTRA) DURING APR-JULY 2017 ($BN) 18- Performance of China and India in EU’s top imported products from Extra-EU ($ millions) 41- Fashion Tips 34- Export of articles of apparel and clothing accessories major countries 35- Export of textile items to ASEAN countries
EDITORIAL TEAM Editor and Publisher Ms. Jigna Shah Graphic Designer Mr. Anant A. Jogale Sales Manager Mr. Md. Tanweer Chief Editor Mr. Bhavesh Thakar Editorial Assistant Mrs. Namsha
Mr. Devchand Chheda City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group) Mr. Manohar Samuel President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries Dr. M. K. Talukdar VP, Kusumgar Corporates Mr. Shailendra Pandey VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon Mr. Ajay Sharma GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group) Mr. Avinash Mayekar Consulting Editor
EDUCATION / RESEARCH
28- AEPC 29- CITI 30- SRTEPC
Mr. B.V. Doctor HOD knitting, SASMIRA Dr. Ela Dedhia Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College Dr. Mangesh D. Teli Professor, Dean ICT Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay Principal Scientist and Head MPD Dr. Rajan Nachane Retired Scientist, CIRCOT
Advertiser Index Back Page: Raymond Back Inside: Silverline Fashion Front Inside: Raysil Page 3: Pranera Textiles Page 4: Linen Fiesta Page 5: SGS Innovation Page 6: Sanjay Plastic Page 7: Bajaj Fab
Page 8: Parekh Agencies Page 35: Kenny Fabrics Page 42: GTTES 2019 Page 43: Devshree Fabrics Page 44: SKBS Page 45: Vora Associate Nilesh Textiles Page 46: RSWM
19- Clothing from Himalayan Nettle Fibre
POST SHOW REPORT 22- ITMACH 2017 23- HEIMTEXTIL 2018
TECHNICAL ARTICLE 24- Electrochemical Processing -an eco friendly Technology in Textile by Professors of SVVV
32 REVIEW OF TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN NEWS 21- Colorant Ltd., sponsors SDC Technical Seminar held at Bangalore 27- Karl Mayer creates niche in the Ichalkaranji Market 31- Women apparel brand Shree growing in double digits by using Liva fabric 31- Applied DNA Sciences Expands Internationally with New Central DNA Testing Laboratory in India 33- Asian convergence once more at Screen Print India show 34- H&M Apologises After Severe Backlash Over Racist ‘Coolest Monkey In The Jungle’ Ad Campaign 36- Anamika Khanna To Reinvent Nudes At LFW 36- BIBA Launches ‘BIBA Ready-To-Stitch Collection’ Exclusively On Amazon.in
37- SHOW CALENDAR
ASEAN Indian Relationshipâ€Ś
Recently Textiles Minister Smriti Irani observed the fact that India has potential to become the one-stop sourcing destination for brands and retailers from ASEAN countries, as opportunities exist for textile manufacturers from the 10-nation block to invest here and cater to the domestic market as well as exports. ASEAN (Association of Southeast Asian Nations) is a multilateral body whose member countries include Thailand, Indonesia, Singapore, Brunei, Laos, Myanmar, Cambodia, Malaysia, Philippines and Vietnam. India has strength and ability to produce a diverse range of products and export almost all kinds of textiles and apparel including all handloom and handicraft products that demonstrate the unique skill of the countryâ€™s weavers and artisans. In the year 2016, India exported textiles and apparel worth USD 1,203 million to ASEAN and imported textiles and apparel worth USD 546 million from ASEAN. India-ASEAN relations can forge to ensure that we can give better manufacturing opportunities, better wage opportunities and also help strengthening our legacies in textiles. TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN Magazine is celebrating 5th Anniversary with this issue. We would like to thank all our stakeholders like Subscribers, Advertisers, Suppliers, Well wishers, Friends, Authors / Article Contributors and many more. Without their positive support, the journey would never have been such wonderful and pleasant...!!! This Journey will continue with lot of innovation, creativity and meaningful association with everyone in time to come..!!! Wish you a Productive Budgeting Period..!!!
Ms. Jigna Shah
Editor and Publisher
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EXPORT YARN REPORT
Exports of cotton fail to pick, yarn lingers in December Cotton exportsdeclined in December with shipment of 1.4 million bales (170 kg each) as against 1.6 million bales exported a year ago in a situation where marketactivity was disrupted by demonetisation of high currency notes. The slowdown this year appears to have been played by rising prices in domestic market and lower than expected harvest due to pink pest attack in major cotton growing regions. Contracts are cancelled to take advantage of racing domestic prices in a period when prices do not tend to rise generally. Thus, the first three months of 2017-18 cotton marketing year, recorded shipment of 2.11 million bales as against 2.16 million bales in the corresponding months of previous year. It also suggests that the cost of cancellation of contracts is much lower than the returns in selling in domestic market. The price realization averaged INR 106 a kg or US cents 75.54 per pound in December as against the Cotlook Index â€˜Aâ€™ averaging at 88.50 per pound and spot Shankar-6 at US cents 81.02 per pound for the month. November had FOB values average US cents 90.68 per pound US cents 15 higher than local prices. The same reversed in December where FOB values were US cents 5 lower than local numbers.
It still accounted for 32% of all yarn shipped during the month. A year ago, the share was close to 37%. Cotton yarn export at 104 million kg worth US$ 312million (INR 1,990 crore) was down 3.5% in November as 75 countries imported yarn at an average unit price realization of US$ 3.01a kg, US cents 3more than previous month and US cents 16 higher than last year China continued to cut its import of cotton yarn from India by 4% in November and further by 18% in December in value terms, but still accounted for 35% of total shipment during December followed by Bangladesh and Pakistan.16 countries did not import any cotton yarn from India as they did last December. They were replaced by 11other countries which imported yarn worth US$ 1.75million. Kenya, Syria, Czech Republic, Vietnam and Italy were among the fastest growing large markets for cotton yarn in December while Indonesia, USA and Brazil reduced their import significantly compared to last year.
Bangladesh, Vietnam and China were the largest importers of cotton with combined volumes at 1.13 million bales amongst the 21 countries that imported cotton from India in December. Shipment to Pakistan more than halved from 93 thousand bales last December to just 44 thousand bales this month.
100% man-made fibre yarns export also moderated in volume but higher price realisation more than compensated the loss in December.MMF yarnscomprised 4.2million kg of polyester yarn, 1.7 million kg of viscose yarn and 1.6 million kg of acrylic yarn. Polyester yarn exports jumped 23% in value while viscose yarn exports value declined 11% during the month. Acrylic yarn exports inched up 1.5% while volumes jumped 13% at lower price realization.
New importers this December include Italy, Djibouti, Switzerland, Germany and Congo although small quantities were exported. No exports were done to these destinations in December 2016.
Polyester spun yarns were exported to 49 countries at average unit price realization of US$ 2.39 a kg. Turkey remained the largest importer of polyester yarn, followed by Brazil and USA.
Among major cotton buyers, Taiwan, Turkey and Singapore substantially reduced their import this December while a dramatic spurt was seen in shipment to Mauritius.
Source: Fibre to Yarn Export Statistics â€“ India report of December 2017
Cotton yarn exports linger, polyester yarn surges Spun yarn including cotton yarn exports edged down in December, but higher price realization pegged values in US$ term up 4.4%. Export totaled 126 million kg during the month, down 1.4% year on year worth US$ 375 million. Unit value realization averaged US$ 2.96 per kgup US cents 2 from previous month, and US cents 17up compared to last year. Meanwhile the INR appreciated from INR 67 to INR 64 this year. Yarn exports to the largest buyer, China declined 20% both in terms of volume and value during December.
Fibre to yarn pricing trend in December Cotton
Cotton prices in India continued to surge in December despite the usual peak marketing season. Spot prices were up INR 1,490-5,015 per candy during the month, with benchmark Shankar-6 traded at INR 39,925 per candy on an average. Daily arrivals were restricted to around 1.502.00lakh bales in a month where they usually touch 3.00 lakh bales. This was pushing millers into panic buying as framers were holding crop back in anticipation of a price boost later. Also crop production is likely to be smaller than expected due to pest attack in major cotton growing state of Maharashtra.
Cotton yarn markets were active in India and Pakistan where prices jumped on support of firming cotton while in China they were slightly weak in amid moderating transactions. Cotton yarn 16s was offered at 15.25 Yuan a kg (US$ 2.32 a kg) and 32s at 23.11 Yuan a kg (US$ 3.51 a kg) in Shengze. In Pakistan, cotton yarn prices began moving up sharply on the domestic market, due to fresh surge in cotton cost week after week. Cotton import prices also increased sharply due to the surge of international prices and the fall of the PakRe. In Faisalabad, 32s cotton combed yarn rose PakRs 4 to PakRs 143-158 per pound (US$ 2.19-3.15 a kg, down US cents 3-4 due to weak PakRe). In India, 30s combed cotton yarn for knitting were at INR 191.75 a kg (US$ 2.99 a kg, up US cents 3) while export offers jumped US cents 8 to US$ 3.07 a kg.
Outside India, global spot benchmark, Cotlook A index 8% or US cents 6.50 to notch a seven-month high at US cents 87.20 per pound. US Cotton futures on the ICE also hovered close to sevenmonth highs as sustained speculative demand helped March contract gain for nine straight weeks. Cotton contracts for March averaged US cents 76.70 per pound after matching all-time high for the contract at US cents 78.07 per pound in the first half of December. The surge was due to combination of spec and trade buying continued to chase values higher, expert stated also adding that the current bull run had little to do with cotton availability, but was more to the result of mills having accumulated a record amount of unfixed on-call sales. In China, spot cotton market showed some improvement on the back of the surge in imports, but prices remained slightly low. Xinjiang-origin grade-3128 cotton in Henan were quoted at 15.60-15.70 Yuan per metric ton (US cents 108 per pound). Meanwhile, the China Cotton Index moderated 174 Yuan to 15,764 Yuan per metric ton. In Pakistan, buyers sought all grades of cotton during December which kept physical prices firm and forward deals fortified their long positions. The KCA rate gained PakRs 412 at PakRs 7,057 per maund. Meanwhile, cotton imports from India was delayed due to procedural delays and issuance of permits that are valid from 1 January, cotton import will take off then.
Polyester Polyester staple fibre prices edged down in China, rose in Pakistan and India during December. Upstream PTA cost was seen moderating later in the month while MEG remained firm at higher level. In China, PSF offers fell but strong currency negated the moderation. In Jiangsu and Zhejiang, offers for 1.4D direct-melt PSF were at US$ 1.331.36 a kg. PSF market in India moved sideways with sidelinedstance and offers averaged INR 90.25 a kg for 1.2D or US$ 1.41 a kg and 1.4-2D at INR 93.50 a kg (US$ 1.46 a kg). In Pakistan, producers lifted offers while weaker PakRe made imports costlier. 1.4D PSF prices were at PakRs .140-142 a kg (US$ 1.28-1.30 a kg, down US cent 1 due to weak currency), while import prices were up at US$ 1.18 a kg, CNF Karachi. Polyester yarn prices were down across India, Pakistan and China during December, irrespective of change in PSF cost. Offers for polyester yarn in China were down US cents 2-4 in December with 32s at US$ 2.03 a kg while 45s fell to US$ 2.18 a kg. In India, polyester yarn 30 knit yarn fell INR 5to INR 139.75 a kg or US$ $2.02 a kg, down US cents 6 in Ludhiana market.
YARN REPORT Polyester intermediates
prices were at US$ 740 per ton CIF.
Purified terephthalic acid markets after moving higher entering December gradually moved into a weak zone later in the month as prices remained flat to down in the second fortnight and moderated in the week before Christmas Day holiday. Prices could not be swayed away by the recovery in paraxylene markets. In China, spot PTA prices were firm as suppliers kept offers for bonded goods and for nearby-month cargoes unchanged. In US and Europe, demand for PTA was flat pegging prices stable. Asian PTA marker, CFR China were 4% or US$ 26 higher in December, due to earlier rise, to US$ 715-717 per ton. In India,
Mono ethylene glycol prices in Asia were up in December but the hike was moderated by weakening demand from the downstream industry. MEG spot prices inched up US$ 19 on the month with CFR China at US$ 920-925 per ton and CFR South East Asia to US$ 942-947 per ton. European MEG spot truck prices slipped as markets ended on a quiet note ahead of Christmas break. Truck spot prices were assessed at a decrease of Euro 20 at Euro 863 per ton. In US, MEG prices were stable as there was some demand coming from the de-icing and anti-freeze sectors due to winter weather.
MARRAIGE MUHURAT 2018 Auspicious Marriage Dates
24th February (Saturday) 01st March (Thursday) 05th March (Monday) 06th March (Tuesday) 08th March (Thursday) 10th March (Saturday) 12th March (Monday) 18th April (Wednesday) 19th April (Thursday) 20th April (Friday) 24th April (Tuesday) 25th April (Wednesday) 27th April (Friday) 28th April (Saturday) 29th April (Sunday) 30th April (Monday) 01st May (Tuesday) 04th May (Friday) 05th May (Saturday) 06th May (Sunday) 11th May (Friday) 12th May (Saturday) 18th June (Monday) 21st June (Thursday) 23rd June (Saturday) 25th June (Monday) 27th June (Wednesday) 28th June (Thursday) 05th July (Thursday) 10th July (Tuesday) 11th July (Wednesday)
Shubh Vivah Muhurat 06:55 to 30:54+ 19:37 to 23:48 20:18 to 30:45+ 06:45 to 17:46 14:47 to 24:45+ 10:13 to 18:43 11:13 to 20:39 24:28+ to 29:55+ 05:55 to 12:19 23:07 to 29:54+ 05:54 to 11:12 21:46 to 29:49+ 05:49 to 15:06 14:42 to 29:47+ 05:47 to 13:53 18:29 to 29:45+ 05:45 to 10:24 15:57 to 29:43+ 05:42 to 22:33 25:34+ to 29:40+ 05:40 to 15:55 13:47 to 29:36+ 05:36 to 29:35+ 05:27 to 26:47+ 05:28 to 25:27+ 05:28 to 15:32 05:29 to 29:29+ 21:15 to 29:29+ 05:29 to 12:22 12:41 to 29:32+ 20:26 to 29:35+ 05:35 to 15:34
Nakshatra For Marriage Rohini, Mrigashirsha Magha Swati Swati Anuradha Mula Uttara Ashadha Rohini Rohini Mrigashirsha Mrigashirsha Magha Magha Hasta Hasta Swati Swati Anuradha Mula Uttara Ashadha Uttara Ashadha Uttara Bhadrapada Uttara Bhadrapada, Revati Magha Hasta Swati Anuradha Mula Mula Uttara Bhadrapada Rohini, Mrigashirsha Mrigashirsha
Tithi For Marriage Navami, Dashami Purnima Chaturthi, Panchami Panchami Saptami Navami Ekadashi Tritiya, Chaturthi Chaturthi Panchami Panchami Dashami Dashami, Ekadashi Trayodashi Trayodashi, Chaturdashi Purnima Pratipada Dwitiya Chaturthi, Panchami Shashthi Shashthi Ekadashi, Dwadashi Dwadashi, Trayodashi Panchami, Shashthi Navami Ekadashi Trayodashi Purnima Purnima, Pratipada Saptami, Ashtami Trayodashi Trayodashi
Reference : https://www.drikpanchang.com
EU MARKET REPORT
EU MARKET STUDY BY TEXTILE COMMITTEE India’s T&C Export to EU Market (Apr-Jul’ 2017) India exported $ 12.30 Bn of T&C to the World during AprJul’ 2017 out of which the export to EU is about $ 3.18 Bn. The EU contributed about 25.86% to the aggregate export basket of T&C of India and hence played a crucial role for the country. It may be noted here that India’s export has declined to $3.18 Bn from $ 3.20 Bn during the same period of the previous year. Even if, our T&C export to the rest of world has increased slightly, the decline in export to EU indicates that India may be loosing its presence in this important destination to competitors like China, Bangladesh, Vietnam and Pakistan etc. y India’s aggregate export of Textiles to EU (HS Chapter 50 to 60) was $ 0.65 billion during Apr-Jul’ 2017, which is 13.97 percent of India’s total textiles exports to the world. The export of textiles has experienced a growth of 3.97% during the period as compared to previous period. y India’s aggregate export of Clothing to EU (HS Chapter 61 to 63) was $ 2.53 billion during Apr-Jul’ 2017 which is 33.07 percent of India’s total clothing exports to the world. The export of clothing has experienced a negative growth of 1.49% during the period as compared to previous period. y Top 20 Products (whose share is more than 1%) has contributed 50.02 percent to the export basket in EU market during Apr-Jul’ 2017. y The share of these top 20 products was 50.20 percent in the same period of 2016. Table-2 India’s T&C Exports to EU (Mn. $) April-July Month % 2016 2017 Change April 893.59 772.09 -13.60% May 845.53 8.45% 779.62 June 774.19 -1.20% 783.58 July 6.71% 740.63 790.31 Apr-July 3197.43 3182.12 -0.48%
Fig-1 Change in the exports 8.45
Table-3: Top performing products of India (Mn.$) Products
Table-4: Top Products having negative growth (Mn $) Products
61112090 62052000 61046200 62044400
y Some of the policy issues like granting New EU GSP Plus scheme to Pakistan, signing up of FTA by EU with Vietnam and growing intra EU trade may be influencing the T&C export performance of India.
Major 12 products have experienced negative growth during April –July’ 2017 as compared to the same period during 2016
Comments y India’s export to EU has experienced highest negative growth (-13.60%) in April, 2017 as compared to the same period in 2016, but reversed in the subsequent month. y The month wise fluctuation of the export from India is visible in the trend.
Apr-Jul’ % 2017 change 114.01 5.37%
India’s Top Products having negative growth (Apr–Jul’ 2017)
Apr-Jul’ 2016 8.2100
62063000 Women's or girls blouses, shirts of cotton, not knitted Flexible intermediate bulk containers, for packing of 63053219 goods, of polyethylene or polypropylene strips, (excl. knitted or crocheted) 62044200 Women's or girls dresses of cotton, not knitted Women's or girls dresses of synthetic ﬁbres , not 62044300 knitted 61099020 T-shirts, singlets of artiﬁcial ﬁbres, knitted Single cotton yarn, of combed ﬁbres, containing 52052300 >=85% cotton by weight 61071100 Men's or boys underpants and briefs of cotton, knitted Men's or boys nightshirts of cotton, knitted or 61072100 crocheted Total
India’s Top Performing Products in EU market (Apr– Jul’ 2017) The major 8 products have experienced positive growth in India’s export basket during April–July’ 2017 as compared to the same period during 2016 are as follows y The export of products like 63053219, 61099020, 52052300 and 61072100 have increased with a growth of 21.50%, 8.31%, 34.83% and 16.49% respectively; which is quite promising from the export perspective of the country.
63026000 61051000 61083100 62114390 61044200 62034235
T-shirts, singlets and other vests of 279.23 cotton, knitted Women's or girls blouses, shirts of man169.94 made ﬁbres, not knitted Babies' garments accessories, of cotton, 113.89 Men's or boys shirts of cotton, not knitted 99.25 Women's or girls trousers, bib and brace 74.34 overalls of cotton, knitted Women's or girls dresses of artiﬁcial 76.32 ﬁbres, not knitted Toilet linen and kitchen linen, of terry 61.36 towelling of cotton Men's or boys shirts of cotton, knitted or 50.39 crocheted Women's or girls nightdresses of 48.86 cotton, knitted Women’s or girls’ other garments of 49.45 manmade ﬁbres, not knitted Women's or girls' dresses, of cotton, 36.39 knitted Men's or boys' trousers of cotton, woven 32.22 Total 1091.65
EU MARKET REPORT Even if, most of these 12 products have grown positively during last five years prior to 2016 except Men’s or boys shirts of cotton, not knitted (62052000), Toilet linen and kitchen linen, of terry toweling of cotton (63026000) & Men’s or boys shirts of cotton, knitted or crocheted (61051000), these product have experienced negative growth during last five year. Countries like Cambodia, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Vietnam, Spain, Poland & Myanmar have gained market share in the EU during last five years. The surge in the export from these countries may be the key factor for the decline in the India’s export to EU. Further, out of 12 products, 9 are cotton based products, in which India has traditionally been performing well in
most of the export destinations. The negative growth in these cotton based products may be one of the reasons for decline in the export of T&C in EU, and decline in the cotton based products may be a concern for the India’s export basket for achieving desirable growth in future. It may be noted that while China is able to maintain its position as number one exporter of T&C, India has fallen down to 4th position from 2nd position during last few years, which may be matter of concern for the Indian textiles sector & may create difficulties in future in accelerating export growth to these destinations needed for bolstering our T&C exports to the world.
Table-1: Top Importing Products of EU from Extra-EU($ millions) Products 61091000 61099020 61103099 62034231 62064000 62052000 62046231 62034235 62121090 61102099 62046239 61046200 63079098 61112090 61102091 62029300 62019300 61051000 62044300 61159500 62034290
Descriptions T-shirts, singlets and other vests of cotton, knitted or crocheted: Of cotton T-shirts, singlets and other vests of textile materials, knitted or crocheted (excl. cotton): Of artiﬁcial ﬁbres Women's jerseys, pullovers, cardigans, waistcoats and similar articles, of man-made ﬁbres, Men's trousers and breeches of cotton denim Women's blouses, shirts and shirt-blouses of manmade ﬁbres (excl. knitted or crocheted and vests): Of man-made ﬁbres Men's shirts of cotton (excl. knitted or crocheted, nightshirts, singlets and other vests): Of cotton Women's cotton denim trousers and breeches Men's trousers and breeches of cotton Brassieres of all types of textile materials, whether or not elasticated Women's jerseys, pullovers, cardigans, waistcoats and similar articles, of cotton, Women's trousers and breeches, of cotton Women's trousers, bib and brace overalls, breeches and shorts of cotton Made-up articles of textile materials, incl. dress patterns, n.e.s. Babies' garments and clothing accessories, of cotton, Men's jerseys, pullovers, cardigans, waistcoats of cotton, Women's anoraks, windcheaters, wind jackets of man-made ﬁbres Men's anoraks, windcheaters, wind jackets of manmade ﬁbres Men's shirts of cotton, knitted or crocheted Women's dresses of synthetic ﬁbres Full-length or knee-length stockings, socks of cotton Men's or boys' shorts of cotton Total
490.82 516.51 465.47 478.03 443.22 450.67 446.00 442.66 15543.59 15555.37
1.30% 1.21% 1.14% 1.12% 0.08%
EU MARKET REPORT TOP EXPORTERS TO EU (EXTRA & INTRA) DURING APR-JULY 2017 ($BN) EU import from Extra-EU
EU import from Intra-EU
Netherlands Apr-Jul' 2016
Table-2: Performance of China and India in EU’s top imported products from Extra-EU ($ millions) China in EU market Products
India in EU market %Change
CLOTHING FROM HIMALAYAN NETTLE FIBRE One major hazard that the synthetics pose to the environment is that many of them take more than five hundred years to decompose. On the other hand, most natural fibres are biodegradable and sustainable, provided that eco-friendly techniques are adopted at every stage of their production and disposal. Because of recent issues like rising costs of petroleum-based fibres and their impact on environment and sustainable development, natural fibres have once again found a niche in the global textile market. Along with this, growing global population leading to increased demand for textiles is increasing the risk of greater environmental impact. To resolve these issues, many industrialized nations have for long been looking for natural biodegradable alternatives for synthetics, to be applied to a wide variety of uses along with/ apart from textiles. On the other hand, in the natural fibre sector, cotton is an undisputed ruler with its annual global production crossing over 25 million tons in past few years, followed by wool (FAO, 2005). In the foothills of Nepal’s Himalayas, the Himalayan stinging nettle plants grows naturally in the wild. Ellie Skeele, founder of Himalayan Wild Fibers, is in the process of developing the nettle fiber industry with the local community. According to the Center for Sustainable Fashion, Himalayan nettle is the longest fiber currently known to humankind and is considered finer, stronger, and more elastic than linen. The development of this fiber would create work and income for many Nepalis and bring a durable and sustainable textile to market. The Himalayan nettle plants hold soil in place and help prevent landslides and erosion. They are grown without chemical fertilizers but with regular cutting of the stocks, according to Himalayan Wild Fibers. Most recently, Ellie Skeele and her team explored the possibilities of working with Thami villagers, an indigenous group of Nepal, in collecting nettle from their forests. Currently, Himalayan Wild Fibers is seeking a designer to spin different blends of Himalayan nettle with other fabrics. Himalayan Nettle – the Fiber of the Future? Fibre-yielding plant, Himalayan nettle (Girardinia diversifolia), is found to be occurring abundantly in the Garhwal region of Uttarakhand. It was lying unexplored until 7-8 years back, when on realizing its potential in the field of textiles, many organizations in the region initiated Research and Development activity on the possibilities of handloom based product development in nettle. Research and Development in this field, is mostly aimed at generating livelihood opportunities for the rural people of Garhwal. While the Himalayan communities in Uttara-
khand, traditionally associated with extracting fibres from nettle and hemp for rope-making, are no longer practicing the craft, Bhotia weaver community, at Mangroli village, Chamoli (UBFDB cluster) has learnt and mastered the technique of nettle fibre processing. However, lack of design intervention has led to a situation, where nettle products developed here, could not establish a significant market. It was also observed, that a lot of skills possessed by the community at the cluster were not being explored fully for developing nettle based products. This experimental study has explored possibilities of design intervention/product development at different stages of fibre processing, based on the skills available with the Bhotia weaver community. As a result, a wide range of designs – fibre, yarns, woven material and products – have been developed, which can have potential market value and can add effectively to the chain of existing designs in nettle. Based on the results, it can be concluded that nettle is laden with possibilities and opportunities, and nettle based design development has a lot of scope. However, the interests and traditions of the communities involved in the production process should be maintained. With the growing importance and popularity of concepts like green, eco-friendly, sustainability, etc. natural fibres seem to have become an obvious choice for enlightened producers and consumers of textiles. Even though the synthetic alternatives can be obtained easily, in wide varieties and (in most cases) at low prices as compared to natural fibres, the threats related with their extensive production and use cannot be ruled out. However, many researches and arguments led to a conclusion that cotton despite being a natural fiber, is one of the most unsustainable crops owing to the extensive use of fertilizers and pesticides in its production. And the other important fibre, silk, is engulfed in a moral war of being cruel. Even though concepts like organic cotton and ‘ahimsa’ silk have well been established, the costs and labor involved in their production are quite high. In this case, it becomes an urgent need to identify and promote natural fibres other than cotton and silk. Global textile industry has been looking for alternative fibres, which can reduce our heavy reliance on cotton. As a result, minor natural fibres like jute, hemp, linen, etc. have gained popularity in commercial textiles since last two decades. Nettle can be considered as one of the latest to be added in the list of possible commercial fibre, and the biggest advantage it holds is that it can be 100% sustainable. Nettle is a bast fibre obtained from the stem of the wild growing stinging nettle plant, found in the temperate re-
SUSTAINABLE FIBRE gions of the world. Countries like UK and Germany, have been involved in the development of this fibre since 1999, and have made considerable growth in this direction. A number of researches have been conducted not only in developing commercial textiles using nettle, but also in the cultivation and propagation of the crop in the most sustainable manner. Significant development. Has been recorded in the processes of cultivation and fibre extraction by many renowned European organizations, institutes and companies. India, has also realized the importance and potential of this wealth naturally found in abundance in the Himalayas. Especially after looking at landmark developments by the neighboring country Nepal in nettle fibre production and exports at a Small and Medium Enterprise level, Uttarakhand has been recognized as one Indian state, potential for nettle fibre development. Through initial surveys conducted by Uttarakhand Bamboo and Fibre Development Board for resource quantification in three blocks of Chamoli district of Uttarakhand, it was estimated that a total of 770 square kilometer area has naturally growing nettle (Himalayan nettle, Girardinia diversifolia), which can provide 24704.26 tons raw dried fibre annually (Lepcha, Bahti and Kumar, 2009). Apart from Uttarakhand, the plant is found in Jammu and Kashmir, Himachal Pradesh, Sikkim and Arunachal Pradesh as well. Development in nettle fibre can not only make India contribute in sustainable development in the field of textiles, but can also help the rural hill population in terms of income generation, providing sustainable livelihood to many people. Himalayan nettle is a perennial plant found growing in temperate and sub-tropical Himalayas, between 1200 to 2900 meters above sea level. It is largely found growing wild in the broad leaf forests with high leaf litter and moisture as well as in the outskirts of villages of Uttarakhand. Clothing made from nettle is not a new idea, since the past thousands year people have worn fabrics made from the Himalayan nettle. But nettle lost their popularity when synthetic and other fibers arrived in the market. Considering the potential of this fiber, Uttarakhand Bamboo & Fiber Development Board is promoting eco-friendly natural fiber as livelihood option to the hill people specially Bhotia community of Uttarakhand who are crafting variety of products in nettle fiber. PRODUCTION OF NETTLE FIBRE AND YARN The company has started for the development of nettle fiber and yarns. In the beginning time, they collect nettle yarns from villagers where they make the yarns for themselves. There was too much wastage thread in village no any supply and the company collect that thread and started to supply in carpets. But this thread wasn’t exportable so that it was searching for good yarn and fiber and it is success to made good quality yarns from 2009. Also it was
Exporting little and limit fiber and thread before because, that time not a good quality. But 2009 it make good fiber and yarn by organic method and started to Export all over the world. Specially Europe and USA. All the production are totally handmade, 100% Natural and without chemical use so it is called as “ORGANIC PRODUCTION”. Since the plant grows in abundance, there is no need for any chemical fertilizers or other unnatural additives to artificially stimulate the plants growth, making the whole operation sustainable and environment-friendly. PROPERTIES OF NETTLE FIBRE : Special inherent characteristics of nettle fiber make it very different from other fibers and have unique prosperities like: Though common nettle (urtica dioica) and Himalayan nettle (girardinia diversifolia) are biologically similar, their fibers are quite different. Himalayan nettle is the longest fiber currently known to humankind and spinners at a Italian fabric manufacturer have deemed it finer, yet stronger and more elastic, than linen. The fiber is not just sustainable; it actually improves the environment in which it grows by helping to control erosion and preventing deadly landslides. Collection of the giant Himalayan nettle plant creates income for Nepali villagers and we are producing fiber using low tech methods to create income opportunities for yet more Nepalis. The nettle fibre is characterized by its fine sheen. It has high tensile strength and its loft is similar to that of cotton. Nettle fibres are extremely absorbent. The Center of Sustainable Fashion claims that the Himalayan nettle is stronger, finer and more flexible than regular linen, indicating that eco-friendly clothing made from it will be more durable and of better quality. Hollow core useful in creating fabrics with thermal properties, both warm and cool Reputedly antimicrobial, antibacterial and fire retardant Great resistance to wrinkling Benefits of Himalayan nettle yarn 100% organic From a sustainable source More environmentally friendly than cotton Elegant, fine and durable Pure nettle fibre (matt finish) or nettle fibre & silk (for a sheen finish) are perfect choices If you’re looking for something that is highly decorative and detailed and light to touch, ideal for spring and summer. Nettle Fibre with Pashmina or Angora wool mixes are recommended if you’re looking for the beautiful hand crafted detail, but with added warmth. The scarves and shawls are not only attractive to look at, but are also very environmentally friendly.
SUSTAINABLE FIBRE Nettle fibre is a great alternative to cotton and is much kinder on the environment. Cotton production takes a heavy toll on the environment as the cotton plant is greedy for water, and the use of pesticides and herbicides is widespread in its production, in fact almost one quarter of pesticides used in the world are sprayed on to cotton plants! The nettles used to make this scarf are grown 100% organically, with the rich soils in the Himalayan valleys supplying the plant with all the nutrients it needs. Hand-knitted by members of the Kulung Rai hill tribe , the scarves and shawls provide a much needed livelihood for this poverty-stricken community. Blending : The Italian fabric manufacturer spun and wove a 50/50 viscose/Himalayan nettle sample. The manufacturer was interested in reducing the amount of Himalayan nettle, combining with one or more fibers and moving forward. Nettle and Pashmina Scarf ,100% Nettle Scarf,100% Nettle Shawl , Nettle and silk mix scarf , Nettle and Angora mix Scarf are made . How to care for the nettle fibre: 1. Wash by hand in warm soapy water, rinse well and pull into shape. 2. Adding a little oil to the water will help to soften the nettle. 3. It will become softer with each wash.
ven, crocheted and knitting into many different items very thing from clothing, ceremonial accessories, fishing nets, bags etc.. This 100% natural yarn is made without use of chemicals or machines. Nettle is naturally found in the wild. Yarns have texture similar to natural linen like linen will soften with wear. It’s also known as “Allo”. These delicate hand-knitted scarves and shawls are available in four different varieties; pure nettle fibre as well as nettle fibre mixed either with pashmina, angora or silk. They are all available in two different sizes, with the ‘shawls’ being slightly wider and longer than the scarves. The very long, tough bast fibres derived from the giant Himalayan nettle have been used for thousands of years to spin durable yarns from which fishing nets and ropes were traditionally made. It was also mixed with birch pitch to attach arrowheads and feathers to arrow shafts. Besides its obvious suitability for utilitarian purposes, nettle fibre can also be finely worked to produce a muslin that is stronger than linen. A new clothing industry is developing in Nepal by promoting the use of Himalayan nettle fibers as a material for manufacturing garments.
USES OF HIMALAYAN NETTLE FIBRES:
This 100% nettle yarn is hands spun from nettle fibers. Nettle yarn is been used for centuries. the yarn are wo-
COLORANT Ltd ,Ahmedabad sponsors SDC Technical Seminar held at Bangalore It was a half day Seminar based on ‘’ Garment Processing Green Economics ” Mr Pratap ,MD,Wonder Blues,Bangalore was the chief guest Being one of the technical speaker Dr Mahapatra ,President ,Colorant Ltd spoke about the GARMENT DYEING in which he mentioned about the Garment Dyeing using new sustainable fibres like Milk Fibre,Soyabean Fibres,Bamboo Fibres and Pineapple Fibres and he also emphasized on the new ranges of Reactive Dyes launched by COLORANT Ltd since last few years for Garment Dye-
ing which save time,energy ,water etc in dyeing of cotton garments. Dr Mahapatra also spoke about Super Critical Carbon Dye oxide ( SCo2) dyeing of polyester garments known as Waterless Dyeing and Salt free Reactive Dyeing of Cotton Garments .He gave stress on using Colorzen catioinised cotton in garments which will lead to Salt free Reactive Dyeing.He emphasized on using Colron CN and Colron SF dyes for Light/Medium shades and Colron GLX/ Colron CES dyes to be used for Dark/Heavy Dark Shades. All these dyes are giving very good results all over India and abroad . The seminar was arranged by the SDC India officials and attended by Bangalore Garment and textile process house owners,designers ,Brands Retailers and technicians . There was technical interaction between the audience and COLORANT technical team led by Dr Mahapatra,Mr Venkat ,Mr Chetan Mulani & Mr Senthil Kumar .
POST SHOW REPORT
ITMACH India 2017 Connects Machinery Marketers To Investors, Concludes Successfully ITMACH India, the largest textile exhibition in the country for the year 2017 concluded successfully in the capital city Gandhinagar in Gujarat, with participants from over 10 countries worldwide. The four-day exhibition was in place from December 7-10, 2017 that hosted the cream of the textile manufacturing industry and the textile engineering industry. Over 350 exhibitors exhibited at ITMACH India in three halls distinctly covering each specific area of textile manufacturing i.e. Spinning, Weaving and Technical Textiles, Knitting, Dyeing, Printing and Textile Processing with an exhibition area of 30,000 square meters. The exhibition had a visitor footfall of about 38,000. Gujarat being a major textile manufacturing hub, the event attracted sizable number of entrepreneurs, decision making technocrats and industry professionals. Almost all leading textile machinery manufacturers have participated in ITMACH India which helped the second edition of show to grow three fold compared to the premier edition. Among the exhibitors, Saurer, LMW, CHTC, Premier, Amsler, Rotorcraft, Jingwei, Pacific Mechatronic, Picanol, ITEMA, Staubli, Haijia, Rifa, A.T.E., Fongâ€™s, Perfect Engineering, Rimtex, PalodHimson, SPGPrints, Embee, Premier Evolvics, Yamuna Machines, Indian Textile Engineers, Kusters Calico, MAG Solvicsare few leading names that are well known in respective areas of textile machinery and technology.In terms of country, exhibitors were from Germany, Switzerland, Italy, Belgium, Turkey, China, Taiwan, South Korea and Japan along with a strong stringent of Indian exhibitors who showcased their latest ware.
technology. The exhibitors introduced them to the next generation technology that was on their shelves for ready use by the textile industry. The visitors also got to meet technical experts from leading textile machinery and technology suppliers and industry professionals. They also exchanged ideas on latest trends, developments and opportunities. The visitors have expressed satisfaction over product on display and live demonstration, sharing of knowledge and fine-tuning of ideas that was facilitated by the presence of industry leaders. The convergence of visitors from across Indian subcontinent brought vibrancy to the event while trade delegates from the neighboring states like Maharashtra, Madhya Pradesh, Rajasthan, Telangana, Karnataka and Uttar Pradesh outnumbered visitors from other states and countries. Both exhibitors and visitors were happy with the choice of the venue as they strongly felt that it was a well thought out location having adequate modern infrastructures for holding such exhibition and easy access to roads, railways, sea ports and airports made it a convenient place for logistics handling. To sum it up, ITMACH India 2017 was the epitome for showcasing of excellence and innovation in textile technology. It served as an accredited B2B platform for the textile industry. It facilitated business houses to avail opportunities for investing in technology and capacity building for a growing textile industry. Banking on the positive feedback from the exhibitors and visitors, 3rd ITMACH India will be hosted inthe same venue from 5-8 December 2019.
The exhibition encompassed products across the entire value chain of the textile manufacturing right from spinning, knitting, weaving, processing, garmenting to yarn and fiber. The exhibition not only created opportunities both for buyers and sellers in a significant way, it also ensured that global participation brought the markets closer in terms of awareness on technology, partnerships, market opportunities and sourcing. To cap it, the state of Gujarat which holds a lot of promise in terms of successful industrial development in the country, played host to the stellar event. The stream of visitors had a first-hand experience of coming face to face with the latest textile machinery and
POST SHOW REPORT
Heimtextil International Trade Fair for Home and Contract Textiles Frankfurt Heimtextil 2018: Renewed growth in visitors and exhibitors Successful start to the new furnishing season: around 70,000 visitors from 135 countries experienced design innovations by 2,975 international exhibitors at Heimtextil from 9 to 12 January. Urban design in the context of architecture and the hotel industry became the top topic of the international trade fair for home and contract textiles. ‘With growth on both the visitor and exhibitor side, Heimtextil has convinced across the board and underpinned its unique position as a world-leading trade fair’, says Detlef Braun, CEO of Messe Frankfurt. Around 70,000 visitors, including representatives from the retail and wholesale trade, interior decorators, design, architecture and interior design, the hotel industry and industry, benefited from the fair’s unique range of products and inspiration. For the eighth time in a row, the trade fair increased the number of participating companies; these now total 2,975 international exhibitors. In addition to global market leaders and industry leaders, Heimtextil also provided an international platform for more than 50 young designers and start-ups with its newcomer programme “New & Next”. One of the focal points of the trade fair was contract furnishing and the associated focus on the target group of architects and property planners. ‘For us it was a fantastic trade fair première’, says Tom Puukko, owner of the wallpaper manufacturer Feathr from Finland. ‘We were able to generate new and excellent contacts from all parts of the world. A special highlight for us was a group of architects who stopped by our stand, enabling us to present our products to them’. Architecture meets textile design With a first-rate lecture programme, topic-specific guided tours and a prominent presentation area, namely the new Interior Architecture. Hospitality Expo in hall 4.2, Heimtextil expanded its commitment to textile contract furnishings, and with great success. Numerous architects and interior designers, hoteliers and furnishers took advantage of the diverse information and networking opportunities. ‘I considered a visit to Heimtextil as a valuable incentive for my work, i. e. for the interior furnishings and design of shops and restaurants at the airport. I was able to make interesting contacts and discover exciting, very high-quality products’, says Jun-Florian Peine, Project Manager Retail Development Fraport AG. In the immediate vicinity of the new area, carpet suppliers were able to present themselves as part of a joint presentation by the Association of German Home Textiles Manufacturers (Heimtex) entitled “Carpet by Heimtex”. Volker Knieß,
responsible for International Sales at Toucan-T, drew a positive conclusion: ‘We found the new concept of a joint presentation interesting and are very satisfied with how the fair went. With the main focus on acoustics, flexibility and design, we appeal particularly to the architects who we encounter here at Heimtextil. The guided tours for architects in particular bring us into contact with this target group and open up interesting contacts for us’. Urbanisation is becoming a major trend topic With the “Theme Park” trend area, Heimtextil gave an outlook on the design and furnishing trends of the future. Under the title “The Future is urban”, international design experts visualised the megatrend of urbanisation. Based on the statement that more than half of the world’s population already lives in major cities, the area not only showcased the colour and material trends of the coming season, but above all real future prospects in the field of textile interior design. The London-based studio FranklinTill directed the showcase in hall 6.0 and received great acclaim for a trend presentation that was both progressive as well as tangible and clear. Celebrity guests up close And the glamour factor was also once again present at Heimtextil. Barbara Schöneberger for Tapetenfabrik Gebr. Rasch and “die Maus” for P+S International presented their first wallpaper collections. Enie van de Meiklokjes and Alexander Herrmann enriched the DecoTeam’s programme with workshops. And Laura Chaplin, granddaughter of the world-famous comedian, as brand ambassador for the Cotton made in Africa label, drew attention to the use of sustainable cotton in the textile industry. New concept 2019 Based on discussions with exhibitors and visitor surveys, Messe Frankfurt has developed a new Heimtextil concept for 2019. ‘From the perspective of buyers in particular, we are repositioning Heimtextil 2019 and grouping themes and product groups according to target groups. In this way, synergies can be better recognised and exploited’, says Olaf Schmidt, Vice President Textiles & Textile Technologies at Messe Frankfurt. In addition, the demand for stand space on the exhibitor side has grown sharply in some product groups in recent years. The opportunity to optimise the concept is not least due to major construction measures currently being implemented at the Messe Frankfurt exhibition site: the new hall 12 will be erected on the western side of the site and will be available to Heimtextil for the first time in 2019.
Electrochemical Processing -an ecofriendly Technology in Textile ABSTRACT: The textile industry uses the electrochemical techniques both in textile processes (such as decolorizing fabrics and dyeing processes) and also in wastewaters treatments (color removal from waste water).The industry is in the need of New Green Technologies for different Textile processes and waste water treatment. There is growing awareness and readiness to adapt new green technologies for Cleaner Production methods. Such new green technologies help industries to achieve green production and cost reduction at the same time. Therefore there is an urgent need to promote new green technologies in textile processes. Electrochemical reduction reactions are mostly used in sulfur and vat dyeing, but in some cases, they are applied to effluents discoloration. These electrogenerated species are able to bleach indigo-dyed denim fabrics and to degrade dyes in wastewater in order to achieve the effluent color removal. The main objective of this paper is to review the electrochemical techniques applied to textile industry. KEY WORDS: Electrochemical, Textile, dyeing, sulfur dye, vat dye. INTRODUCTION: Electrochemistry refers to the use of electrical energy in initiating chemical reactions, replacing traditional aid agents in direct chemical reactions. Traditionally, the electrochemical techniques have been used for the synthesis of compounds or for metal recovery treatments. But now a days electrochemical techniques are used in the bleaching of textile materials. Their application in sulfurand vat-dyeing processes is also interesting. In this case, dyes are reduced by means of an electrochemical reaction (instead of sodium dithionite). In this way, sulfur and vat dyeing become cleaner processes as the addition of chemical reagents is not required. Although the electrochemical methods play an important role in the different textile processes listed above, their wider range of applications are related to color removal in wastewater treatments in particular, in the degradation of non-biodegradable dyes (such as reactive dyes). This kind of dyes requires additional treatments to obtain uncolored effluents. In general, the electrochemical methods are cleaner than physicochemical and membrane technologies because they use the electron as unique reagent and they do not produce solid residues. THE ELECTROCHEMISTRY IN THE TEXTILE PRODUCTION PROCESSES BLEACHING OF TEXILE MATERIALS
Cotton bleaching takes place after the scouring process with the aim of destroying the natural raw color of this fiber. The most common reactive to provide whiteness to cotton is hydrogen peroxide. Chong and chu reported the use of electrochemical techniques to generate in situ this oxidant required for cotton bleaching by the electrolysis of oxygen in the presence of an alkaline electrolyte. This electrolyte proceeds from the scouring process. They propose the use of the electrolysis process in a combined scouring and bleaching process, and they concluded that the whiteness obtained in the combined method is comparable to that obtained with conventional methods. Although the electrochemical techniques have been applied to bleach raw fibers, their main application in bleaching field is the discoloration of indigo–denim-dyed fabrics. An important step in the processing of indigo-dyed textiles is the finishing of the garment to obtain the required visual effect. The removal or destruction of part of indigo requires a combination of mechanical agitation and chemical attack, mainly with oxidizing agents. The most useful oxidant for bleaching indigo denims is hypochlorite. The conventional method to obtain the decolorized effect of these denims is based on the addition of this chemical reagent to the dye bath, but recently the generation in situ of the hypochlorite by an electrochemical oxidation is becoming a more attractive method, because it offers several advantages with respect to the conventional method: • Improvement in the process control and consistency, • Lower-process costs due to the production of more regular shades, the possibility of bleaching bath regeneration and the lower amount of effluent generated. DYEING PROCESS: DYES REDUCTION Vat dyes, especially indigo, play an important role in textile industry. They are insoluble in water and cannot dye fibers directly. They must be reduced in alkali medium to become soluble in water. When the dyes are absorbed onto the fiber, they return to their original form by a subsequent reoxidation. Sulfur dyes also are water-insoluble dyes, containing sulfur as an integral part of the chromophore group. The alkaline-reduced form is required for the dyeing process and subsequently, when they are added to the fiber, they are oxidized to the insoluble form. In attempt to increase the eco-efficiency of these dyeing processes, electrochemical techniques have been investigated in the reduction of such dyes, which avoids the addition of reducing agents as sodium dithionite. Sodium dithionite (Na2S2O4) is the most used reducing agent in the industrial dyeing process with this kind of dyes, but
TECHNICAL ARTICLE after its reaction, it cannot be recycled. It also produces large amounts of sodium sulfate and toxic sulfite products. For this reason, the treatment of dyeing effluents requires the addition of hydrogen peroxide, which also causes high costs and other additional problems. The most attractive new procedures to reduce vat and sulfur dyes are electrochemical reduction methods, because the addition of reducing agents is not required. This method also avoids the generation of toxic products due to the reaction between the added reagents and the dye molecules. For all these reasons, electrochemical reduction processes are considered more suitable: no reagents addition is required, no byproducts are formed and no tertiary treatments are necessary to treat the final effluents. The energy is the only requirement of electrochemical methods. Electrochemical techniques constitute a promising field for the different steps of textile process, but their application to the dyeing of vat and sulfur dyes is specially interesting to avoid the use of reducing reagents. WASTEWATER COLOR REMOVAL The textile industry produces large volumes of wastewater in its dyeing and finishing processes. These effluents have as common characteristic their high coloration. Colorants, the additive substances that cause a variation in color, can be divided in dyes or pigments. Pigments in general are insoluble substances which have not the chemical affinity to the substrate to be colored; otherwise, dyes are generally soluble (or partially soluble) in organic compounds Several methods are used for the removal of organic dyes from wastewaters. Most of dyes are only partially removed under aerobic conditions in conventional biological treatments. As biological treatment is insufficient to remove color and to accomplish with current regulations, the application of Some electrochemical color removal methods have been applied to industrial effluents. The current physico-chemical methods, based on the separation of dyes from the effluents, produce a residue which requires an additional treatment to be destroyed. Also, the absorbent materials require their regeneration after several treatments, and the filtration and membranes methods need cleaning treatments. Chemical oxidation methods are rather expensive and involve some operational difficulties. Biological treatments are a simple method but supply inefficient results in discoloration because dyes have aromatic rings in their large molecules that provide them chemical stability and resistance to the microbiological attack. Enzymatic decomposition requires further investigation in order to know which enzymatic process takes place; moreover, temperature and pressure have to be controlled to avoid enzymes denaturalization. For these reasons, the electrochemical methods are nowadays the subject of a wide range of investigations at laboratory and pilot-plant scale. The advantage of these
electrochemical techniques is that electron is a clean reagent. They also have good versatility and high-energy efficiency. They are easy for automation and safety because it is possible to operate at smooth conditions. The main types of electrochemical methods applied to wastewater treatment, briefly described below. Electrocoagulation Methods Electrocoagulation systems provide electrochemical aggregation of heavy metals, organic and inorganic pollutants, to produce a coagulated residue to be separated or removed from water. This technique is an indirect electrochemical method which produces coagulant agents (Fe3+ or Al3+) from the electrode material (Fe or Al) in hydroxide medium. These species, that is, Fe(OH)3, can remove dissolved dyes by precipitation or by flotation. These complexed compounds are attached to the bubbles of H2 (gas) evolved at the cathode and transported to the top of solution. The inconvenient of the Electrocoagulation in comparison to the other electrochemical methods is that it produces secondary residues (the complex formed with pollutant and hydroxide) which implies in the usage of tertiary treatments. Indirect Oxidation Methods The indirect electro-oxidation occurs when strong oxidants are generated in situ during the electrolysis and react with the organic pollutants such as dyestuffs, producing its total or partial degradation. Mainly two methods one used: The first one is the electro-oxidation with active chlorine, which is the major oxidizing agent. In this case, free-chlorine gaseous and/or the generated chlorineoxygen species such as hypochlorous acid (HClO) or hypochlorite ions (ClO−) depending on the pH, oxidize the organic matter present in the effluents. The second one is the electro-Fenton process , where organics degradation occurs by hydroxyl radicals (OH• ) formed from Fenton’s reaction between catalytic Fe2+ and H2O2, this hydrogen peroxide is also electrogenerated from O2 reduction. This technique has an important inconvenience: a strong acidic medium is required. As the reactive dyeing process is carried out in basic medium (generally pH > 10), a high amount of acid has to be added before the treatment. Subsequently, the treated effluent must be neutralized to be discharged. Consequently, the whole process produces a high increase of the wastewater salinity.As some industrial wastewaters contain large amounts of chloride, the first approach is more suitable to treat this kind of effluents, because the addition of any chemical product is not required whereas in second case, Fenton reagent is needed. In contrast, the combination of electrochemistry and chloride can produce haloforms such as chloroform, although it is not an inconvenient if the treated water is degraded lately in a biological plant to accomplish its min-
TECHNICAL ARTICLE eralization.
Color Removal from Textile and other Industrial Wastewater using Ozone
The electrochemical techniques have been proved to be efficient in different oxidation or reduction steps of the textile processes such as: bleaching denim fabrics or reduction of sulfur and vat dyes, where their applications are available in both natural and synthetic fibers. They constitute a less harmful alternative than the traditional processes. In addition, the electrochemical treatments have been extensively applied to the decontamination of wastewaters from the textile processes. The possibility of reusing dyeing effluents treated by electrochemical methods is particularly interesting and it implies an important saving of water and salt. This kind of studies is especially important in Mediterranean countries, where the river flow rates are low and their salinity is nowadays an increasing environmental problem.
Ozone has been used for successfully for removal of color from textile wastewater streams in plants around the world as well as in other industrial wastewater processes. In wastewater treatment, ozone is often used in conjunction with biological treatment systems such as activated sludge. Organic dyes are mostly refractory due to their large molecular size and they can be poorly removed by adsorption on activated sludge. In some cases ozone has been used before the biological process, but mainly after biological treatment. If the wastewater is hardly biodegradable or toxic to activated sludge pretreatment is an option. Ozone can be used prior to a biological process since it has a tendency to convert organic molecules into smaller more biodegradable species. This can enhance the efficiency of the biological process. In addition, ozone treatment of wastewater increases the oxygen content of the water (unconverted oxygen and ozone that decomposes back to oxygen that was mixed with the water) which results in improvement in aerobic processes. While this benefit is well known in the literature it is difficult to practically apply since the amount of improvement is difficult to predict and pilot studies involving ozone and biological processes are difficult to carry out. The effect of ozone on improving biodegradability and reducing toxicity is worth noting in terms of the effect of the treated water on the receiving stream. Where the treated water is tested for toxicity, the impact of the treatment process on this parameter must be considered. Destroying one organic molecule, but creating more toxic ones in a treatment process has been observed, for example the ozonation of MTBE without any additional agents or treatment processes can result in a more toxic wastewater. Another consideration is the presence of surfactants and the need to remove these compounds from the water. In some locales surfactant concentrations are tightly controlled and must be kept under 1 ppm. This creates an additional demand for oxidant. Some textile waste waters contain both color and surfactants. Ozone is effective in removing the color from all dyes used in textile processing. The amount of ozone can vary depending on a number of factors: how much color was removed in the biological process, the type of dye used, where ozone is applied in the process, etc. Knowing the proper amount of ozone required to meet the color removal objective for the receiving water body is critical to the economics of the ozone system. In general it is not easy to predict the amount of ozone required, so in virtually all cases where specific previous experience is not available, pilot testing is employed.
REFERENCES 1. C. L. Chong and P. M. Chu, “Bleaching cotton based on electrolytic production of hydrogen peroxide,”American Dyestuff Reporter, vol. 87, no. 4, pp. 13–19, 1998. 2. T. Bechtold, E. Burtscher, and A. Turcanu, “Direct cathodic reduction of Leuco Sulfur Black 1 and Sulfur Black 1,” Journal of Applied Electrochemistry, vol. 28, no. 11, pp. 1243–1250, 1998 3. Dyes Color Removal by Ozone and Hydrogen Peroxide: Some Aspects and Problems, R. Tosik, Ozone: Science and Engineering 27: 265-272 4. Y. Amano and Y. Y. Tanaka, “Treating agent for bleach processing,” Japanese Patent: Application number “JP1988000226387”, 1990. 5. T. Bechtold, P. Maier, and W. Schrott, “Bleaching of indigo-dyed denim fabric by electrochemical formation of hypohalogenites in situ,” Coloration Technology, vol. 121, no. 2, pp. 64–68, 2005. 6. M. D. Teli, P. Rohera, J. Sheikh, and R. Singhal, “Use of Amaranthus (Rajgeera) starch vis-à-vis wheat starch in printing of vat dyes,” Carbohydrate Polymers, vol. 76, no. 3, pp. 460–463, 2009. 7. E. Marte, “Dyeing with sulphur, indigo and vat dyes using the new RD process. Hydroxyacetone makes it possible,” Text Praxis International, vol. 44, p. 737, 1989. 8. A. Roessler and X. Jin, “State of the art technologies and new electrochemical methods for the reduction of vat dyes,” Dyes and Pigments, vol. 59, no. 3, pp. 223–235, 2003. 9. W. G. Kuo, “Decolorizing dye wastewater with Fenton’s reagent,” Water Research, vol. 26, no. 7, pp. 881–886, 1992. 10. N. Meksi, M. Kechida, and F. Mhenni, “Cotton dyeing by indigo with the borohydride process: effect of some experimental conditions on indigo reduction and dyeing
TECHNICAL ARTICLE quality,” Chemical Engineering Journal, vol. 131, no. 1–3, pp. 187–193, 2007. 11. W. Schrott, “Electrochemical dyeing,” Textile Asia, vol. 35, no. 2, pp. 45–47, 2004 12. M. A. Kulandainathan, A. Muthukumaran, K. Patil, and R. B. Chavan, “Potentiostatic studies on indirect electrochemical reduction of vat dyes,” Dyes and Pigments, vol. 73, no. 1, pp. 47–54, 2007. 13. Removal of Dissolved Organic and color from dying Wastewater by Pre-Ozonation and Subsequent Biological Treatment, Takahashi, Nobuyuki; Kumagai, Tomoyo; Ozone: Science and Engineering, 28: 199-205
14. C. Hachem, F. Bocquillon, O. Zahraa, and M. Bouchy, “Decolourization of textile industry wastewater by the photocatalytic degradation process,” Dyes and Pigments, vol. 49, no. 2, pp. 117–125, 2001. 15. S. Figueroa, L. Vazquez, and A. Alvarez-Gallegos, “ecolorizing textile wastewater with Fenton’s reagent electrogenerated with solar photovoltaic cell,” Water Research, vol. 43, no. 2, pp. 283–294, 2009. Department of Textile Technology Shyam Barhanpurkar, Ajay S Joshi, & K Sarkar Shri Vaishanv Institute of Technology and Science, Indore
Karl Mayer creates a niche in the Ichalkaranji market Ichalkaranji and has so far installed 11 Karl Mayer warp preparation machines. The leading airjet weavers in Ichalkaranji turn to the Jathar Group for all their sizing beams, as they find the performance of their weaving machine is much better with warp sized on Karl Mayer machines. Ichalkaranji, popularly known as the ‘Manchester of Maharashtra’, is one of the prominent centres of the decentralised textile sector in India. Recent years have seen a phenomenal growth of the textile industry in Ichalkaranji with major investments in the latest technologies. In the weaving sector, around 9,000 shuttleless weaving machines, mainly high speed airjet and rapier technology, 20,000 auto looms, Ruti-C, Ruti-B and Cimmco, and 120,000 plain power looms are in operation, producing fabrics such as grey apparel, cambric, poplin, dhoti, printed sari, blouse, interlining, shirting, sheeting, canvas, and industrial textiles. To cater to the weaving machines, there are about 160 sizing units with more than 250 sizing machines in all, which include a range of conventional machinesas well as the most modern technology machines. A.T.E. has a strong presence in the Ichalkaranji market with several Karl Mayer installations. As a renowned solution provider, A.T.E. consistently meets increasing customer expectations in terms ofhigh quality warp, and better productivity to achieve the best performance on high speed shuttleless weaving machines. In the last few years, more than 40 Karl Mayer sizing and warping machines have been installed in this market, while many more machines are expected soon. Jathar Group of Textiles is a well-known job sizer from
Mr Sachin Jathar, Managing Director of the Jathar Group of Textiles, and his team believe that as a job sizer one must have adequate process knowledge on sizing technology and also have the best quality warp preparation equipment to retain customers. Expressing his satisfaction with the Karl Mayer machines, Mr Sachin Jathar says “since our first purchase in the year 2010, Karl Mayer machines have been operating to the best of our satisfaction. Due to Karl Mayer machines, the sized beams started performing well on high-speed air jet looms with the highest efficiency and productivity. A.T.E. and Karl Mayer teams have always supported us and gave us the right guidance. We are happy with the overall performance of Karl Mayer machines and today we have 11 Karl Mayer warp preparation machines, which cater to a major market segment in Ichalkaranji”. The increasing preference for the Karl Mayer technology can be gauged from the repeat orders received for warp preparation machines from other leading customers like the Baldev Group, Arvind Texfab and many more from the Ichalkaranji market. Karl Mayer has recently introduced PROSIZE technology, a breakthrough innovation in sizing, designed to provide unmatched advantages and benefits to customers. After the successful installation of the first 2 PROSIZE machines in Ichalkaranji (out of a total of 20 machines supplied so far in India), there are several orders for the PROSIZE machines in the pipeline from this market.
Shri Ajay Tamta, Minister of State (MoS) for Textiles, inaugurates 60th edition of India International Garment Fair Shri Ajay Tamta, Hon’ble Minister of State (MoS) for Textiles inaugurated the 60th edition of India International Garment Fair (IIGF) . The three day international fair is primarily covering the Autumn/Winter season of European Union, USA and other Western markets. Shri Ajay Tamta, Hon’ble Minister of State for Textiles said, “IIGF is a big platform which brings together the overseas garment buyers and garment exporters with almost half of the Indian states participating in the fair. Garment sector is one of the largest employment providers and is helping a large number of people to earn their livelihood. The apparel Industry is going through a challenging phase and to address the concerns of the Industry, a committee has been formed by the Government to look into the issues raised by the Industry. The textile package announced by the Honourable Prime Minister is benefitting the sector, immensely. During the last IIGF, Overall business worth US $200 million and its seence to be increase this year. Mr. HKL Magu, Chairman, of AEPC expresses the note with the huge transformation in the Fair and the industry has witnessed in these years. The Fair has grown in scale & scope and emerged as the one of the largest and most popular platforms in Asia where overseas garment buyers can source and forge the business relationship with India’s finest in Apparel and Fashion Accessories domain. This time the fair is conducting at a time when Industry is facing lot of challenges both domestically and globally. This is high times for the Industry with global head winds blowier The post GST transformation for the industry has been challenging, but I am sure the industry seems the resilience in the past, and emerge stronger.”
Rajasthan, Tamil Nadu, Telangana, Uttar Pradesh and West Bengal are participating at the 60th IIGF. These 294 participants displays women’s wear, accessories, kid’s wear and menswear. International buyers from 95 countries like Brazil, Spain, Japan, Uruguay, UK, Hong Kong, US etc. have also registered to participate in this fair. IIGF is also organizing fashion shows, twice a day on all three days for exhibiting the collections for business development. Besides this, the best displayed stalls would be awarded Gold, Silver and Bronze Trophies in an award function. India International Garment Fair is a B-2-B fair started in 1988 .The fair is being organized in association with International Garment Fair Association and four major Garment Exporters’ Associations Viz. Apparel Exporters & Manufacturers Association (AEMA), Garment Exporters Association (GEA), The Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI) and Garment Exporters of Rajasthan (GEAR).This is only B-2-B fair and is meant for conducting meaningful and quality business.
A total no. of 294 exporters from 11 states namely Gujarat, Haryana, Maharashtra, Madhya Pradesh, New Delhi,
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Steady Rise in Textile Imports – a concern for the domestic industry: CITI On the release of foreign trade data for the month of De- from Bangladesh post GST is illustrated in table below: cember 2017 by the Ministry of Commerce & Industry, Quick Estimates on Imports for the month of DecemShri Sanjay Kumar Jain, Chairman, CITI, expressed conber 2017 cern over the 3% decline in CAGR in textiles and apparel exports compared to the corresponding period of Decem- Value in USD Mn ber 2016. The exports of textiles and apparel stood at US$ 2996 million during December 2017 as % Category Dec’16 Dec’17 % AprilAprilagainst US$ 3075 million in December change Change Dec 2016 Dec 2016. However, the cumulative export 2017 has slightly improved by 2% CAGR as 137.24 165.34 20.48% 1,160 1,388 19.65% the exports stood at US$ 26,136 million Textile Yarn Fabric/Madein April-Dec 2017 in comparison to US$ 25,721 million in April-Dec 2016. Shri Jain ups articles further stated that the share of textiles and apparel exports in the All Commodity Exports (ACE) Imports of Garments from Bangladesh Post GST also declined by 2% in December 2017. A comparative statement showing the sector-wise performance is given Shri Sanjay Jain also stressed that the on-going scenario is negatively affecting the domestic yarn, fabric and garbelow: ment manufacturers. He further stated that there is a India’s Exports of Textiles & Clothing to the World greater need to impose safeguard measures such as Rules Values in USD Mn of Origin, Yarn Forward and Fabric Forward Rules on the countries like Bangladesh Export Category Dec’16 Dec’17 CAGR April April CAGR and Sri Lanka that have FTAs -Dec 16 -Dec 17 with India to prevent cheapCotton Yarn/Fabs./Made- 935 939 0.40% 7,177 7,513 5% er fabrics produced from ups, Handloom Items etc. countries like China routed Man-made Yarn/Fabs./ 390 417 7% 3,326 3,554 7% through these countries. made-ups etc. Garment manufacturers in India have to pay duty on imApparel 1,454 1,337 -8% 12,426 12,386 -0.30% ported fabrics, while BanglaTextile and Apparel (in- 3,075 2,996 -3% 25,721 26,136 2% desh can import fabric from cluding Jute, Carpet and China duty free and convert Handicrafts) them into garments and sell All Commodity 24,057 27,030 12% 199,467 223,513 12% to India duty free. This is put% of T&A in Total Exports 13% 11% 13% 12% ting Indian garment industry at a major disadvantage and this figure is expected to go Source: Ministry of Commerce & Industry up in coming months. Shri Sanjay Jain while appreciating the cumulative inAt the same time, Shri Sanjay Jain pointed out that India crease in the textiles and clothing exports during April- can increase its exports of cotton yarn and fabrics proDecember 2017 also expressed concernsover the consist- vided the sector is restored with export incentives. CITI ent increase in imports of textiles and clothing during the has been strongly representing the case of cotton yarn same period. The imports of textiles during December and fabrics with every government department, including 2017 stood at US$ 165.34 million in comparison to US$ PMO to enhance the competitiveness of the cotton yarn 137.24 million in December 2016, registering an increase and fabric sector. He stated that at present India’s share of 20.48 per cent. of cotton yarn in world trade is 26% and it is declining Shri Jain also pointed out that as per the latest statistics released by Export Promotion Bureau of Bangladesh, India’s imports of garments from Bangladesh has reached US$ 111.3 million during July to December 2017, indicating a sharp rise of 66% from US$ 66.9 million during the same period last year. The data regarding imports of garments
steeply as the incentives given to the cotton yarn sector were withdrawn in 2014 and MEIS which was extended to the entire value chain was not extended to cotton yarn. Moreover, there are various state levies up to the tune of 8% on cotton yarn which are not refunded at any stage. Similarly, Fabric sector is not getting refund of state levies
ASSOCIATION NEWS of around 6%. By including cotton yarn under MEIS and providing ROSL for fabrics, Indian can retain its competitiveness in the global market. Shri Sanjay K. Jain, stated
that he is optimistic that the Government would consider CITI’s representations and resolve the issues of the textile and clothing sector on an urgent basis.
Imports of Garments from Bangladesh Post GST In USD Million
Source: Export Promotion Bureau of Bangladesh
Exports of Man Made Fibre Textiles items up by 7 Percent Exports of Synthetic and Rayon textiles has registered a growth since the start of this financial year and this trend is continuing further showing a growth of 7% in US Dollar term during April – November, 2017. Shri Sri Narain Aggarwal, Chairman of The Synthetic & Nov-16
shown a growth of Rs.2679.28 crores during April-November 2017. The Chairman of SRTEPC extends his sincere thanks to our Hon’ble Union Textile Minister Ms. Smriti Irani for her deep understanding towards the problems faced by
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Rayon Textiles Export Promotion Council said that this year seems to be a successful one unlike the previous year in terms of achievement of growth for this sector. According to Shri Sri Narain Aggarwal; main category of fabrics, yarn and made-ups have shown a growth value at Rs.20239.69 crores and man-made staple fibre has also
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the MMF segment and her kind support. He also thanked the Hon’ble Union Commerce and Industry Minister Shri Suresh Prabhu for his support and encouragement for MMF Textile industry. It was due to their continued support and cooperation exports of manmade textiles could grow and achieve its true potential.
Women apparel brand Shree growing in double digits by using Liva fabric • Shree increases production of Liva tagged garments from 15,000 per month to 250,000 garments per month
Mr. Kapoor further added, “We get immense support from Liva with respect to innovative fabrics and modern trends. With increasing popularity of Liva, we now have almost 98% of our collection made from Liva fabric.”
• Liva supports Shree with innovative fabrics, quality up gradation of vendors, latest trends and cobranded marketing campaigns
Shree gets good consumer insights from 24 EBOs and 1000 MBOs. These insights help to create new innovations on a daily basis. This also indicates that the supply chain has to be robust and fast. Liva Accredited Partner Forum (LAPF) has understood the requirement very well. LAPF has worked in close coordination with its partners and brought down the lead time of supplying the fabrics from 75 days to almost 25 days.
Shree – The Indian Avatar has observed almost 1500% growth in demand for its garments made from Liva fabrics. Owing to the rise in demand of Liva, the new age fluid fabric from the Aditya Birla Group, Shree now boasts a production of 250,000 garments per month made from Liva from just 15,000 garments per month. Talking about the collaboration with LIVA, Sandeep Kapoor, an Expert in Textile and Apparel Industry and Director of Shree – The Indian Avatar, stated, “Our success has a lot to do with the unique way in which we operate our business. We create, innovate and introduce 5 new trend collections everyday, which is unlike any other garment manufacturing company in the country. This is a fast fashion model.”
According to Mr. Manohar Samuel, President – Marketing, Birla Cellulose, “We are looking for partners who can understand consumers well, innovate continuously and also understand fabrics. Shree fits in all requirements very well. They have the ability to connect with every stratum, be it value chain or end consumers”. To fuel growth, Liva supports Shree in co – branding activities, with a focus to spread awareness for both Shree – The Indian Avatar and Liva.
Applied DNA Sciences Expands Internationally with New Central DNA Testing Laboratory in India New Facility to Service Growing Business in Textiles, Global Supply Chains from the Asia Pacific Region Applied DNA Sciences, Inc. (NASDAQ: APDN, “Applied DNA,” “the Company”) today announced the establishment of a Central DNA Testing Laboratory in Ahmedabad, India providing full forensic authentication services. The laboratory supports Applied DNA’s growing global textile business in the Asia-Pacific region with expansion capability for other supply chains present in the region, such as fertilizer and pharmaceuticals. Officially opening on February 15, 2018, the Central Laboratory is strategically located in the state of Gujarat, an economic hub for the development and advancement of cotton, other textiles, fertilizers, petrochemicals and pharmaceuticals.
Dr. Ila Lansky, a forensic scientist with over 11 years of forensic DNA experience, will direct the Central DNA Testing Laboratory. She currently oversees all aspects of forensic analysis, testing, authentication and reporting for all samples submitted, following the standard operating procedures established by Applied DNA’s New York forensic laboratories. The Central DNA Testing Laboratory is a high throughput laboratory, providing customers with accurate reports in a short turnaround time. “This is an important opportunity for Applied DNA to bring our proven technologies to the heart of India’s textile industry, and share our impeccable standards and operational protocols,” said Dr. Lansky. “The laboratory will have the ability to process thousands of samples, serving our textiles customers in the region,”
NEWS The Indian textile industry is currently estimated at approximately $135 billion USD and is expected to reach $230 billion by 2023 (IBEF 2017). It is home to such global textile brands and manufacturers as The Himatsingka Group and GHCL Limited. Additionally, India is home to the sixth largest pharmaceutical market in the world, with an expected value of $550 billion by 2020 (IBEF 2017).
the steady growth and ensured protection of the circular economy. It only makes sense for Applied DNA to have a facility where so many of our current and future partners are based.”
“Opening a lab in Gujarat has both strategic and practical importance for Applied DNA,” said Dr. James A. Hayward, president and chief executive officer of Applied DNA. “Our partnership with Himatsingka, has proven remarkably successful, with uptake in the commercial ecosystem and endorsement by big box retailers. Adoption of our technologies by other textile companies is growing. Working closely with such India-based industry majors as Himatsingka and GHCL, we know Applied DNA’s value in enabling source-verified supplied chains and contributing
Review of Textile Value Chain Magazine
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‘‘ Be Fearless in the pursuit of what sets your soul on fire..’’ 32
Asian convergence once more at Screen Print India show ASGA confirms support for SPI 2018/ ASGA India 2018 to hold its Board Meeting in Mumbai following the event Standing as a credible trade platform for the Screen Printing Industry for over two decades, Screen Print India 2018 (SPI 2018) is back for its 14th edition with new innovations, developments and business prospects and will take place from 20-22 April, 2018 at the Bombay Exhibition Centre, Mumbai. In a continued show of support, (Asia Pacific Screen Printing & Graphics Association) ASGA, has come forward to extend its backing to SPI 2018 for the third consecutive edition and will be hosting the ASGA Board Meeting in Mumbai, following Screen Print India 2018 fair. With SPI 2018 - ASGA India 2018 show becoming a convergence point for country and association delegations from across Asia as they gather for this unique event, the international factor in the forthcoming exhibition has become even stronger. Known to largely support exhibitions only in China, this is the third time that ASGA has joined hands with Screen Print India. Ms Shen Chunyan, Chairwoman, ASGA, shared, “After thesuccess of Screen Print India 2016/ ASGA India 2016, we now look forward to the next edition in 2018. ASGA is dedicated to build cooperation and promote industry growth in Asian countries.” Mr Anil Brahmbhatt, President, SGAI(Screenprinting& Graphics Association of India) says “As the national screen printing association of India, SGAI has always supported the Screen Print India and we continue to extend our support to this prime trade fairwith its new ownership and managementunder Messe Frankfurt India. It has been an honour and a privilege for SGAI to host the ASGA Board meeting in India twice during the Screen Print India exhibition in 2012 and 2016 and we look forward to hosting them again in year 2018. ASGA delegations have always had a significant presence at the Screen Print India and we are excited and confident about the upcoming edition.” In a recent development, Messe Frankfurt India Trade Fair
Pvt Ltd, the Indian subsidiary of one of the world’s leading trade show organisers, Messe Frankfurt Exhibition GmbH, acquired the rights of Screen Print India earlier this year. Having made its debut in 1994, Screen Print India exhibition is held bi-annually in Mumbai since its inception and has grown wider in scope covering not just screen printing but textile printing and digital printing. Previously owned and managed by Aditya Expositions Pvt Ltd, the acquisition not only reinforces its position as a formidable player in the print sector but also broadens its scope in the textile technologies portfolio. The event will be part of the company’s Texpertise Network which is a combination of the world’s most important textile trade fair that highlight innovations and show what is driving the global textile industry. Raj Manek, Executive Director and Board Member of Messe Frankfurt Asia Holding Ltd. said: “We are proud to have found support in AGSA, one of the most trusted industry associationsfor this sector, as the show gears up to make its debut under the Messe Frankfurt umbrella. The continued cooperationunderlines the credibility of the platform and has strengthened our resolve to provide a high-level business & networking arena for the sector’s players while enhancing its internationality.” As a platform dedicated for the screen printing industry since over two decades, Screen Print India focuses on new innovations and application areas in this technology-driven product segment. The latest edition in Mumbai 2016 featured 90 exhibitors covering 1,963 sqm of net exhibition space and drawing around 7,000 professional visitors. While the fair will continue to maintain a strong focus on screen printing machines, textile/garment printing materials, sublimation printing, digital and conventional printing presses, digital textile printers, wide format digital machinery, consumables and inks among others, the organisers aim to expand the exhibit segments to cover embroidery, garment and apparel printing in the coming years which will supplement its textile technologies portfolio.
‘‘Our brains are wired to find things we’re looking for – if you’re always cynical or waiting for things to go wrong, then your life will reflect that. On the other hand, having a positive outlook on life will bring you joy and provide you with inspiration when you least expect it.’’
REPORT TABLE - 125
EXPORT OF ARTICLES OF APPAREL AND CLOTHING ACCESSORIES - MAJOR COUNTRIES 2013-14
COUNTRY Rs. Mn.
U ARAB EMTS
GERMAN F REP
Source : Monthly Statistics of the Foreign Trade of India, DGCIS, Kolkata.
NEWS H&M Apologises After Severe Backlash Over Racist ‘Coolest Monkey In The Jungle’ Ad Campaign After receiving severe backlash on social media for their controversial ‘coolest monkey in the jungle’ advertisement featuring a black child model, clothing brand H&M has issued an apology for the same and taken the picture down from their website. In an apology statement issued on Twitter, H&M wrote that they are “deeply sorry” for the picture and they “understand” and “agree” with why “people have gotten upset” over the ad campaign. “It has been removed from all online channels and the product will not be for sale in the United States. We believe in diversity and inclusion in all
that we do,” said the H&M team Due to the mass outrage over the advertisement, H&M has stated that they would pull the jumper from all of their outlets. The advertisement was branded “racist” and “unacceptable” by many, including several celebrities like The Weeknd, LeBron James and Diddy. Controversy seems to be hot on the heels of the retail giant as a few months ago H&M was embroiled in yet another incident which amounted to public flak. The clothing brand faced major setbacks from animal rights organisation People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) after a hoodie bearing the slogan’ Dogfight in Random Alley’ was put up for purchase. PETA said that the hoodie sent out a “dangerous message” to the society. That time too, H&M retracted the sweatshirt from its stores. www.textilevaluechain.com
REPORT TABLE 136
EXPORT OF TEXTILE ITEMS TO ASEAN COUNTRIES 2012-13
LAO PD RP
VIETNAM SOC REP
Source : Monthly Statistics of the Foreign Trade of India, DGCIS, Kolkata.
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Anamika Khanna To Reinvent Nudes At LFW Anamika Khanna, the famous designer, who is known for here rich craftmanship that blends Indian colours with global contours, has been announced as the grand finale designer of Summer-Resort 2018 edition of Lakmé Fashion Week (LFW). She is going to reinvent nude with her finale collection. The Lakmé Absolute Grand Finale promises to bring together the best of Khanna’s contemporary designs interspersed with the diverse nude palette that Lakmé will be introducing this season. Khanna will also work with the Lakmé makeup experts to create looks that promise to redefine nude trends across the country. “It’s an absolute pleasure to be back at the Lakmé finale- a
platform that gives us the opportunity to push boundaries and reinvent “diversity”. The nude makeup trend has been the talk of the town for a while but to see it through Lakmé’s eyes is very different. “It’s about identifying every Indian woman’s nude palette. Our finale collection is finetuned to be in perfect symmetry with the season’s statement, and we hope to showcase how much variety nudes can bring when done right,” said Khanna Talking about the association Purnima Lamba, Head of Innovation at Lakmé said, “Lakmé has always designed shades that suit the Indian woman. As our consumers played back their struggle with a pale international nude pallete, we felt the time was right to introduce a richer Indian nude shade palette. Building on the diversity across India, we are excited to collaborate with Anamika to represent personal style at its best, as we reinvent the concept of nudes.”
BIBA Launches ‘BIBA Ready-To-Stitch Collection’ Exclusively On Amazon.in India’s leading ethnic apparel brand BIBA, has entered into a partnership with Amazon India for the exclusive launch of ‘BIBA Ready-to-Stitch collection’ on Amazon.in
At BIBA, this is our constant endeavour to make the brand and its offerings more accessible and available to our customers, across platforms.”
BIBA celebrates Indian ethnic fashion capturing the imagination of young girls and women in India. The selection from the brand is available on Amazon.in since 2014. Through their presence on Amazon.in, the brand has become more accessible to millions of customers across the country. BIBA ready-to-stitch line is a collection of handpicked fabrics from all over India which can be stitched as per one’s size and style. Crafted from fine silks, georgettes, premium chanderis and cotton and blended fabrics; this range is a perfect solution for casual wear, work wear and party-wear needs.
Commenting on the launch, Arun Sirdeshmukh, Head, Amazon Fashion said, “We are glad to launch BIBA’s ‘Ready to Stitch’ collection exclusively on Amazon.in. BIBA is a household name in India, known for their premium quality and innovative designs. The range is also an addition to the growing ethnic wear selection available on Amazon Fashion. The launch of their new collection will allow our shoppers to engage with the brand further and also allow the brand to access new geographies following our wide outreach across the country.”
The collection is accentuated with intricate gottapatti work, embellishments, digital & block prints reflecting BIBA’s design aesthetics, which is just a ‘stitch away’ to be the perfect Indian outfit! Commenting on the partnership, Siddharth Bindra, MD, BIBA said, “We are delighted to extend our partnership with Amazon India with this exclusive launch. We feel Amazon India is a great platform to showcase our ready-tostitch line and make it available to BIBA patrons, online.
Tex Novation Mumbai/Maharashtra/ India www.texnovation.com
Knitvision Ludhiana/ Punjab/ India www.knit-vision.com
Millano Unica Milan/ Italy www.milanounica.it
Intertex Milano 2018 Milan/ Italy www.intertex-milano.it
DTG Dhaka/ Bangladesh www.bangla-expo.com/dtg/
Pure London Olympia London https://www.purelondon.com
Premiere Vision Paris / Italy https://www.premierevision.com/en/
Intertextile Shanghai/ China http://intertextile-shanghai-apparel-fabricsspring.hk.messefrankfurt.com/shanghai/en/ visitors/welcome.html
April 2018 5-7
Fibers & Yarns Mumbai / India http://www.fibersnyarns.com/
ITM 2018 / HIGHTEX 2018 Istanbul/ Turkey www.itmexhibition.com www.hightex2018.com
TPF Digital Printing Shanghai/ China http://2016.cstpf.com/en-us/index
May 2018 22-24
Texprocess Americas Georgia / USA http://texprocess-americas.us.messefrankfurt. com/atlanta/en/for_exhibitors/welcome.html
TEXCON 2018(Conference) Indore/ Madhya Pradesh events.svvv.edu.in
FILTECH Cologne/ Germany www.filtech.de
Asian Textile Conference (ATEXCON)(Conference) Mumbai/ Maharashtra citiindia.com
Non Woven Tech Asia 2018 Mumbai/ India www.nonwoventechasia.com NGF 2018 Mumbai/ India www.cmai.in
Puma Collaborates On Suede Gully For Their Suede Sneakers To celebrate the 50th anniversary of their classic suede sneaker Puma India has collaborated on a multimedia project in India, “Suede Gully”. Suede Gully, a music video directed by Sasha Rainbow, features a mix of street art, graffiti, music, and dance, as well as Puma’s signature suede sneakers. The song in the video is sung and rapped in four different languages, namely Hindi, Tamil, Punjabi and Khasi, and was composed by Sneha Khanwalkar. Dancers Mukti Mohan, the Bengaluru-based Black Ice Crew, Shillong’s Unity One Crew, Mumbai’s Beast Mode Crew, and Delhi’s Higher Vision Crew also feature.
Vishnu Srivatsav, the Creative Head of DDB Mudra South says the brand Suede has always been a voice of street culture and Suede Gully looks to bring to life the incredibly unique and diverse culture and expression of our very own gullies. He further added it is art, music, culture, and fashion so many people, folks who live for their art, from different corners of the country, bringing their awesome talents to collaborate on this platform, that’s really special.
Weavetech, a single stop solution for all twisting needs with indigenous technology • Brand name : Weavetech • Tagline : The Best Value Is Here • Segment : Spinning – Yarn Twisting
What Inspired you to Start A Company in Textile Machinery and what is Purpose behind it?
Mr. Chintan Thumar
The company was started in 1984. It was started basically to create import substitution for Japanese machines. During that time in 1980s when Indian companies were struggling, the only dependency they had was on Japanese machines or European machines. The delivery time and the headache of dealing with Europeans were high. To this constraint, we started developing substitute parts of machineries in India and that eventually led to us developing machinery. Director of Alidhara Weavetech
What all Challenges / Hardship you faced during the journey? There were issues related to branding. People did not trust Indian technologies then. However, now 8 out of top 10 companies in filament have our machines. So there has been a change in the past 20 years. What is your Achievement till date? We have become a single stop solution for all twisting needs. If there is any yarn whether it is manmade, natural / technical or anything, we have twisting solution. So, this is probably one of the few companies in the world which has solutions for all types of machines related to yarns, as long as related to twisting.
In which countries/continents do you focus on for exports? We focus mainly on South Asia such as Indonesia, Bangladesh & Pakistan. We also focus on Brazil in Latin America.
In your experience, what kind of customer requirements you have had to cater to, while manufacturing your product? Our products are mainly benchmarked with global suppliers and luckily, with the client list that we have, we are able to prove that our products are matching the global
standards that customers are looking for.
What has been your approach towards product innovation? We spend around 7% of our revenues in R&D. We have a separate R&D centre in Surat with more than 30 Engineers including M.Tech & PhDs along with various skilled workforces. Our special R&D centre is dedicated for development of new twisting technologies for different yarns. With the vision of Make in India, we are focusing on defence applications also where the yarns related to defence like kevlar, carbon fibre are being used. How has the scenario of textile machinery changed over the years in India? The textile machinery industry has not grown as fast as the textile industry as such. The subsidies in imported machineries still discourage the production of high tech machineries. So that is an issue. But with the new government policies coming in, we hope that the textile machinery will grow tremendously as the government is now focusing on subsidizing development work also.
How has your company kept pace with technological up gradation over the years? We tend to attend all the exhibitions in the world. We have tie-ups to various research institutes in India as well as outside India along with being members of many developmental committees & associations.
What is your take on TUFS/ATUFS? Whenever you introduce subsidies, there are chances of generating fake demand for products that leads to oversupply, similar to what is happening in various segments today. Additionally, delay in clarification & renewal of subsidy schemes also lead to fluctuations in demand which acts negatively on the entire machinery industry. Also, India loses a lot of foreign exchange on the imported machineries due to TUFS. Subsidies on imported machines end up generating lakhs of jobs in hi-tech sectors overseas. Our wish is to introduce TUFS subsidy only for Made-In-India equipment & help generate lakhs of hitech jobs within India.
What has been the impact of GST on your business? The impact of GST has been on positive front. The cost of product has decreased and our selling price is coming down now. We are able to get lot of input credits so we are able to pass on lot of benefits. Additionally, many of our customers were unable to take Excise credit earlier but with GST, their investment cost has also come down.
INTERVIEW What are the current issues being faced by your segment? Do you have any suggestions for improvement? The major issues we are facing are lack of clarity & timely decision making by government on subsidy renewals / updates / clarifications. Because of that the project schedules are getting disturbed.
What is your take on the future scenario of your segment in the domestic as well as global market?
flexibility. As of now most of the machines that are made are dedicated to a specific segment or specific type of yarns. We are developing technology that will allow us to be more flexible on different kinds of yarns which will allow our customers to respond to market changes very effectively & efficiently.
Do customers demand certain specific requirements, inspired from European technologies?
We are very positive about it. Demands are increasing and we do believe that soon whatever targets the government has set in terms of exports, are achievable. On this basis, we see a very fast double digit growth rate for textile industry.
Yes, there is a small segment of clients that demand automation that is at a level which is still not affordable to the major Indian segment. We are able to give that technology also as customization. In that case, the costing doesnâ€™t differ much from the European technologies. However, our main focus is to give technology that is acceptable to the larger segment.
What is the USP of your Brand?
Who are your major clients?
We develop indigenous technology which basically offers the best value in terms of operating cost and capital cost. We limit our technology where an Indian unskilled operator is able to use it comfortably and without getting intimidated. So, we develop technology keeping the Indian environment in mind.
Alok Industries, Arvind, Century Rayon, Coats, Dicitex, Donear, Garware, Guetermann, Habasit, Indian Rayon, JCT, Mafatlal, Modern Woollens, RSWM, SIMTA, Siyarams, SRF, Welspun & many more institutes of repute.
What new Technology/Innovation you had introduced in the Exhibition? We have introduced energy saving twisting machines. Also compared to any global technology, our operating cost in terms of energy is almost 30% lower.
In your segment, what technology are you expecting in the future? We are expecting more automation in terms of machine
FASHION TIPS Pastel Pick OPEN UP THE COLOUR BOX Lilac, Mint, Pink, and Blush are surely going to make a come back this New Year. Light, breezy garments in soothing colours will surely add a touch of comfort and a tinge of style to your wardrobe. Steal the show in some pastel layers and then you are set to turn the heads your way!
Zip It both ways TWO SIDED FOR THE FASHIONISTA The two-way zipper style has been steadily gaining the limelight. The versatile style is going to get the men drooling over this New Year. This fashion outtake works both on a hoodie or a trench. The new collections this year will feature many different applications of this trendy style to give the fashion aficionados a better idea of what makes it such a big deal. Gold is Old As the wedding season is about to begin, here are some fashion tips for the brides and their family ladies. Buying of gold during the wedding is very common, but today’s ladies and brides have ditched the gold jewellery. They prefer wearing more of silver plating with diamonds or platinum, which makes them look more elegant and can be worn on regular basis and not just been kept in the safe locker. Now-a-days the brides prefer wearing imitative jewellery or American diamonds with some metals used on it, which looks good on all ages.In rings, they desire to wear a single layered ring, with a prefect diamond or platinum stone. Women are increasingly wearing artificial jewellery or costume jewellery. They prefer going for choker-style necklaces. The Sequin-tial GLITZ AFFAIR As you decide to pick up clothes for the Summer and make your mind on what’s going to work in the upcoming season. Let’s assure you that sequins are going to be under the spotlight this Summer. The extra bit of frills and sparkly sequin dresses and tops are just the right bit of attire you need to hang around your wardrobes, to add that jazz!
Fringe Fringe Baby!
HANG IT THERE Fringe and careless appeal go hand in hand. There is a certain element of sophistication, which you certainly can’t miss in this context. Fringes are fun yet add in that element of sass to your attire. Look for fringey garments and don’t forget to try them and behold them this Summer for every crazy date night and something special night. You can also make a statement wearing one fringe dress to your special office outing too.
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Address:- Plot No:- 4304/13, Road No-8, Cross Road No:43-B, Near Sagar Chokdi, Sachin GIDC, Sachin, Surat_394230. Cont No:- 99250 18033, 9099110300. Email:- email@example.com
SKBS SHREE BALAJI SYNFABS
Contact: Suresh Saraf+91 9322 50 4449 / +91 9322 10 4449 | Nayan Saraf - +91 7498 88 1400 Oï¬ƒce Landline - 91-22-6002 0119 / 9699 25 8834 Email : firstname.lastname@example.org | email@example.com firstname.lastname@example.org | Website : www.shreebalajisynfabs.com Address: Room No.-17, Ground Floor, 342 Kalbadevi Road, Mumbai- 400002
MR. NAYAN SARAF