APRIL 2017 Volume 5 Issue 4
Registered with Registrar of Newspapers under | RNI NO: MAHENG/2012/43707 Postal Registration No. MNE/346/2015-17 published on 5th of every month,TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN posted at Mumbai Patrika Channel Sorting Office,Pantnagar- 75, posting date 29/30 of month
Printing & Painting Decoration Technique on Fabric è POWERTEX India Scheme Views è Egypt: Blessings for Textiles è Interview : Taiwan Textile Federation è Cotton / Surat Cluster Report
igital Printing is booming in Textile Industry, it has huge demand in market as today’s young generation needs. Digital Printing brings a revolution in Textile Industry. Digital Printing is inkjet printing first introduce in early 1990’s it’s took long way to become everyone choice. It’s a com-
puterized inkjet painting which includes graphics in it. From production of fibers and weaving them into fabric, there are several processes and elements involved in textile industry. Digital printing is one of the processes that directly prints designs on the fabric. The current global output of digitally printed textile is growing at a steady annual rate of 25 per cent, according to Textiles Intelligence. While the worldwide share of digitally printed textile is mere 2 per cent currently, the mounting pressure of shipping products in short duration is expected to boost the share in global textile printing to 5 per cent by 2017. Currently, polyester printing is the largest segment in the global digital textile printing market with around 25% share of the global market. Digital printing is not only a higher creative form of textile printing; it also provides greater design flexibility, compared to screen printing. Its became a fantasy on every generation of the society from kids to youngster and youngster to Adolescent. The future growth of digital textile printing widely depends on deeper penetration of digital printing into commercial print production and its need in market. In Future, one hopes to see a large number of manufacturers and suppliers focusing on digital textile printing. India will see an abundance of digital textile print kit and applications from experts in this mar-
Mrs. Namsha T. Editorial Assistant All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith.
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CONTENT 9- POWERTEX INDIA VIEWS by Mr. Aleem Faizee, MIMA Association 10- POWERTEX INDIA VIEWS by SIMA Association 11- RBI Caution List, concern for Exporter by TEXPROCIL
April 2017 ISSUE EDITORIAL TEAM
11- TECHTEXIL: Young Engineers present high-tech solutions 18- Covestro provide boost to STEM learning in India, set up 4 new mini science centre in G- Noida
Editor & Publisher Ms. Jigna Shah Consulting Editor Mr. Avinash Mayekar Graphic Designer Mr. Anant A. Jogale Sales Manager Mr. Md. Tanweer Editorial Assistant Mrs. Namsha T.
24- Environmental Friendly enzymatic desizing & scouring process : RESIL
15- Digital Printing: the next big thing in the textile industry
Mr. Devchand Chheda City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group) Mr. Manohar Samuel President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries Dr. M. K. Talukdar VP, Kusumgar Corporates Mr. Shailendra Pandey VP (Head â€“ Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon Mr. Ajay Sharma GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group)
EDUCATION / RESEARCH
Mr. B.V. Doctor HOD knitting, SASMIRA Dr. Ela Dedhia Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College Dr. Mangesh D. Teli Professor, Dean ICT Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay Principal Scientist & Head MPD Dr. Rajan Nachane Retired Scientist, CIRCOT
Delhi Representative office : Mr. Sudhir Verma Knit Experts 242, Pocket 3, Sector 23, Near Max Fort School, Rohini, New Delhi- 110085 Email : firstname.lastname@example.org Tel : +91-9818026572
GLOBAL FOCUS 12- Egypt : Blessings for Textiles by Mr. Avinash Mayekar, Suvin Advisors
COVER SOTRY 13- Electrochemical techniques applied to textile industry and waste water management by Faculty of Vaishnav College by Ms. Krupa Shah, Editorial Assistant, TVC
16- Phad Painting: A folk art of Rajasthan ; by faculty of SNDT university
INTERVIEW 19- Taiwan Textile Federation
POST EVENT REPORT 20- International Apparel & Textile Fair, 6th edition proves a stronger industry 21- Fashion N Kids Conclave 22- International Summit on Textile Coloration 2017 by SDC
MARKET REPORT 25- Surat Market 26- Cotton Report
31- SHOW CALENDAR 32- BRAND FOCUS: LIVA
Advertiser Index Back Page: Raymond
Page 33: Techtextil Frankfurt
Back Inside: RSWM
Page 34: SBKS
Front Inside: Raysil
Page 35: Sanjay Plastic
Page 3 : Non Woven Tech
Page 36: Texfair
Page 5 : SGS Innovation
Page 37: Deep Textiles
Page 7: ITSE
Page 38: ITMACH India
Page 8: Shreeram Textiles
TEXTILE SOURCING SHOW IN SOUTH ASIA
9 10 December 2017
Venue: The Exhibition Centre, Helipad Ground, Sector-17, Gandhinagar, Gujarat, India
With New Partners
In The Global Marketplace
PRODUCT CATEGORIES Fiber Yarn Suiting & Shirting Fabrics Ladies Wear & Dress Materials Knits Denim Home Textiles & Sheeting Fashion Fabrics Khadi & Handlooms Sustainable & Eco Textiles SPACE BOOKING: Arvind Semlani : +91 9833977743 Email: info@ITMACH.com Radhika Boddu : +91 9867127598 Email: email@example.com Bhavesh Thakar : +91 9375322449 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org ORGANIZERS
K AND D ITMACH EXPOSITIONS LLP Spinners Association (Gujarat)
VALUE CHAIN April 2017
POWERTEX INDIA - VIEWS
Smriti Irani’s PowerTex India launched with pomp and show, but stakeholders unimpressed
pril 01 was the promised day Smriti Irani had kept the industry waiting for ever since she assumed the charge asUnion Textile Minister in July 2016. Hence to calm down the euphoria building up around,and satisfy the ever expecting zealots of the industry, an event of class and a matching pomp and show was needed. Smriti Irani did exactly the same when she, with Maharashtra Chief Minister Devendra Fadnavis in toe, chose Bhiwandi to unveil, through video link and live streaming to more than 40 Powerloom Service Centers (PSCs) across India, the much publicized “Power Tex India, the Comprehensive Scheme for Powerloom Sector Development”. After the launch Smriti Irani claimed that the scheme fulfilled demands put forth by powerloom stakeholders and parliamentarians during consultation meetings held in the last six months and asserted that “Bhiwandi will be henceforth known for resurgence in powerloom sector”.
Power Tex India A quick glance at Power Tex India reveals that it is a kind of “old wine in new bottle” and appears to be mere tweaking of existing schemes. But, the importance of changes Irani has made and the impact they can have on the industry in coming days cannot be downplayed. The most important change Irani has made in her Power Tex India is increasing of per square feet amount under Group Workshed Scheme from existing Rs.300/to Rs.400/- and the subsidy amount given under In-Situ Upgradation Scheme from existing 15,000 to 20,000 rupees. The two schemes have recently played pivotal role in pushing modernization of the textile sector. The other major change Smriti Irani has brought is scaling down of the stakeholder’s share under Yarn Bank Scheme from existing 50% to 25%. Besides these schemes, Irani also encour-
aged afresh the stakeholders to take benefits of Tex Venture Capital Fund through SIDBI. This scheme was introduced by the erstwhile government but has so far seen marginal success because of what industry insiders said “too many conditions imposed by SIDBI”. The highlight of the day however was the introduction of “Solar Energy Scheme for Powerlooms”. Under this scheme, the Ministry of Textiles promised to bear 50% cost of the Solar In-House Plant. The scheme is aimed at providing uninterrupted power supply to textile units and to counter the differences in electricity tariffs in different states. Smriti Irani believed that uninterrupted power supply will increase production and neutralize the difference in manufacturing cost because of varying electricity tariffs in different clusters.
Stakeholders Unimpressed The claims and beliefs by Srmiti Irani notwithstanding, the weavers and stakeholders however think otherwise and are feeling let down by the minister. “The way she had assured us help, we expected that the “New Textile Policy” announced by Smriti Irani will infuse fresh blood into the ailing textile sector. But the entire event, despite the pomp and show associated with it, was a mere drama”, Rasheed Tahir Momin, Chairman of Bhiwandi Powerloom Federation and former MLA, said while talking to Textile Value Chain. Rashid Tahir Momin was part of the delegation led by Sharad Pawar which met Smriti Irani in New Delhi and also accompanied her when she visited Bhiwandi. “Moreover, what she unveiled on April 01 was not a textile policy as was claimed and highlighted in the press. It was a mere tweaking of the existing schemes, the schemes which are already running without much of the result”, he added. “We are feeling like we all got pranked”, he said in a clear reference to Smriti
Irani’s program coinciding with April 1 considered world over as Fools’ Day. Rahisd Momin also raised doubts over Smriti Irani’s claimthat she had fulfilled all the promises she had made during her visit to Bhiwandi and during the meeting of stakeholders in New Delhi. “The fact is that none of our demands got a mention. These were the demands needed a consideration to bring back to the track the ailing textile industry”, he said. He said the weavers were making impassionate appeals to the government since last two years to abolish anti-dumping duty on synthetic yarn or to impose similar duty on Chinese fabrics being dumped into the Indian market via Malyasia and other SAARC countries, but the government chose not to take any note of this. “We demanded the capital subsidy under Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS) to be increased from the existing 30% to 40%. Perhaps to rub salt on our wounds, the government slashed it down to 10%”, he said. Talking to Textile Value Chain Sajid Jalal Seth, a weaver, said they were all disappointed and feeling let down. “The government has made some amendment in the existing Yarn Bank Scheme. But the scheme in itself is not sufficient to check fluctuation. We expected that the government will announce measures to control yarn prices which currently fluctuate every few hours”, he said. “Demands for uniform electricity tariff are being continuously made with erstwhile as well as this government. When we learnt that the government is announcing “New Textile Policy” we hopedthat it will also include this point. But the catalog which we were given during the launch did not even mention it”, he said. Echoing similar concerns, Zahid Ansari Haroon BA said there was nothing new in the scheme which could send positive message in the market.
POWERTEX INDIA - VIEWS “Along with fluctuating yarn prices, costing and pricing of our finished goods we get remain a big issue for us. We had expected from the government to come out with some measures like it does in case of agriculture sector to tackle this”, he said.
“Smriti Irani was talking about Tex Venture Capital Fund through SIDBI. We had held a series of meetings with SIDBI officials in Mumbai as well as in Malegaon for this scheme. But the conditions they are imposing for the sanction of the fund is difficult to fulfill”, they said.
In their response on the scheme launched by Smriti Irani, office bearers of Malegaon Industries & Manufacturers Association (MIMA) said though amendments made in the existing schemes would be useful for the new and upcoming textile units, the Textile Minister offered nothing to the existing powerloom units which are in trouble since last two years.
While welcoming the amendments made in the Group Workshed Scheme and In-Situ Scheme, they said that in the absence of some mechanism to check smooth implementation of the schemes, theywould not yield the desired results. “We took lot of efforts to implement InSitu Sheme in Malegaon and upgraded
about 106 powerlooms. But after the Maharashtra government refused to release the subsidy amount it promised we could do nothing but stop installation of the upgradation kits”, they said.
Mr. AleeM FAizee
Power Tex India, a unique powerloom scheme, says SIMA
ndian powerloom sector accounts for 80% of the woven fabric production, 60% of the total fabric production and provides direct jobs to 63 lakh people especially the people below the poverty line, rural masses and women folk. The powerloom sector has around 25.2 lakh looms. This sector predominantly meets the clothing needs of the entire population in the country apart from fetching sizable forex earning directly and indirectly. Hence the competitiveness of the textile industry across the value chain greatly depends upon the performance of the powerloom sector. Therefore, both the Central and State governments have been giving importance for the growth and the sustenance of this sector.
During the last seven years, the powerloom sector has been facing numerous challenges on account of sluggish global and domestic market conditions. Though the capacity has increased by 12% during the last seven years, the fabric production has increased only by 2.4%. The GST Plus agreement entered by Pakistan with EU during 2013-14 had huge impact on the powerloom fabric exports from India due to 9.6% duty advantage given for Pakistan. In addition, the high production cost, labour shortage, transport cost, 5% State VAT, mass closure of dyeing units, exorbitant cost of modern technology machines, high cost of man-
made fibre, hank yarn obligation, Handloom Reservation Act, etc., continue to be major challenges faced by the powerloom sector. Though the Central Government has already extended numerous schemes including TUF subsidy, subsidy for conversion of non-automatic looms, semi-automatic looms, yarn bank facility, etc., the powerloom sector continuous to struggle. Against this background, the powerloom sector and The Southern India Mills’ Association (SIMA) have been demanding the Central Government to announce a special scheme for the powerloom sector. Now the unique scheme has been announced through Power Tex India. In a Press Release issued here today, Mr.M.Senthilkumar, Chairman, SIMA and also the former Chairman of PDEXCIL who has been making concerted efforts for strengthening powerloom sector’s competitiveness during the last three decades, has thanked the Hon’ble Union Textile Minister, Smt Smriti Zubin Irani for considering most of the proposals of the powerloom sector and SIMA and launching Power Tex India Scheme at Bhiwandi, Maharashtra and also in all powerloom centres across the Nation including Erode through Video Conference. He said that the components of the Power Tex India Scheme include In-situ Upgradation of plain powerlooms, group work shed
scheme, yarn bank scheme, common facility centre, Pradhan Manthri Credit Scheme for powerloom weavers, Solar Energy Scheme for Powerloom, Facilitation, IT, awareness, market development and publicity / powerloom scheme, Tex Venture Capital Fund and Grant-in-Aid and modernization and Upgradation of powerloom service centre. He has added that other schmes for powerlooms are Amended Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme, Modified Comprehensive Powerloom Cluster Development Scheme, Universal Insurance Coverage Scheme and Integrated Skill Development Scheme. Mr.Senthilkumar immediately after attending the launch function at Erode, which was inaugurated by Smt Pushpa Subrahmanyam, IAS., Additional Secretary, Ministry of Textiles has stated that the Scheme would greatly benefit the powerloom sector to improve its competitiveness in the global market and also enable the sector to supply quality fabrics at a competitive rate to the garmenting and made-up sector. He has stated that the Central Government has been continuously announcing special schemes for garment exports, made-ups exports and now for the powerloom sector. He has highly appreciated the solar power plant scheme for powerlooms by giving 50 to 90% subsidy with the lower cap for the powerlooms connected to the grid and higher benefit for the pow-
POWERTEX INDIA - VIEWS erlooms that go off the grid. He has stated that this would give a great relief to the State governments especially Maharashtra and Tamil Nadu that account over 75% of the powerlooms in the country to reduce their power subsidy commitment and also enable the powerloom sector to be self-reliant. Mr.Senthilkumar has stated that the benefits under Mudra Yarn Banking Scheme shall provide interest free corpus fund of maximum Rs.200 lakhs per Yarn Bank. He has also appreciated the Pradhan Manthri Credit Scheme for powerloom weavers that provide 20% margin
money with a ceiling of Rs.1.00 lakh, interest subvention at the rate of 6% both for working capital and term loan upto Rs.10 lakhs for a maximum period of five years. He has further appreciated the assistance given for women entrepreneurs under Stand Up India Scheme by providing 25% margin money subsidy with a ceiling of Rs.25.00 lakhs. He has also appreciated the Texventure Capital Fund Scheme where financial assistance is provided up to Rs.3.00 crores invested under SIDBI Venture Capital Fund Scheme. He has thanked the Government for enhancing the benefit for conversion of non-automatic looms to semi-automatic looms,
shuttleless looms, increasing the subsidy for group work shed scheme etc. He has stated that announcement of Rs.2 crore subsidy for developing common infrastructure facilities such as dormitory, training, processing, etc., would enable the powerloom clusters to produce value added products. Mr.Senthilkumar has appealed to all the powerloom weavers to fully utilize the various benefits announced under Power Tex India Scheme and meet the fabric demands of the downstream sectors and remain globally competitive.
RBI Caution List – a matter of concern for textiles exporters – Chairman, TEXPROCIL
he EDPMS ( Export Data Processing and Monitoring system ) which has been introduced by RBI to monitor payments against Export Bills requires all banks to report in this system details of the export proceeds realization pertaining to the shipping bills filed after February 28, 2014.
and whose outstanding shipping bills ( in value terms ) was less than 30% of the total value of shipping bills for the period from March 1, 2014 to March 1, 2016. After April 20, 2017 , based on the latest position of outstanding export receivables , exporter’s name may appear in the caution list on EDPMS.
A large number of textiles exporters have pointed out that that many of the banks have not completed the EDPMS updation of the shipping bills , said Shri Ujwal Lahoti, Chairman of The Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council ( TEXPROCIL) .
Shri Ujwal Lahoti pointed out that since there are many shipping bills against which payments have already been realized and the E-BRCs have been issued by the concerned banks , but the EDPMS are yet to be updated by the banks , it is likely that many of the textiles exporters will find their names appearing in the caution list after deadline of April 20, 2017 for no fault on their part. TEXPRO-
As an interim relief , RBI has granted temporary exemption upto April 20, 2017 to exporters whose IEC were appearing in the caution list in the EDPMS
CIL has taken up this matter with RBI and we hope some decision will be taken in the matter at the earliest as other wise , it may have an adverse impact on textiles exports, said Shri Lahoti. RBI should advise all the banks to update the Shipping bills on the EDPMS and take a confirmation from them to this effect before putting the exporters in the caution list , according to the Chairman, TEXPROCIL . Shri Ujwal Lahoti urged RBI to extend the last date of April 20, 2017 by another three months so that the banks can complete the updation process on the EDPMS and exporters are not put into unnecessary inconvenience .
Techtextil: Young Engineers Present High-Tech Solutions
ith 62 exhibiting VDMA member companies, German Technology will be strongly represented at Techtextil Frankfurt at the beginning of May. The VDMA uses the trade fair for technical textiles once again as an opportunity to honour successful young engineers. At the trade fair, five students will be awarded prizes of the Walter ReinersStiftung (Foundation) in the categories dissertation, master and seminar paper for their outstanding and creative
achievements. With their works, which deal with lightweight construction applications among other things, the young ladies and gentlemen demonstrate that textile machinery is a real high-tech industry with a future. The award ceremony of the Walter Reiners-Stiftung (Foundation) will take place on 11 May, from 5 to 6 pm at the VDMA booth (3.0/D25). Trade fair visitors and
exhibitors are very welcome to participate. The VDMA booth is also the first contact point for visitors who would like to get an overview of the exhibiting VDMA member companies. For example, the list of exhibitors VDMA members @ Techtextil 2017 as well as Buyer’s Guide Textile Machinery are available at the information booth.
“Egypt –Blessings for Textiles”
y recent visit to Cairo to visit a textile exhibition “Egy Stitch Tex” has given me some eye-openers & changed my perspective of Egy pt textile industry. First and foremost solid ‘mind block’ was that Egyptians only process cotton whereas found that synthetic blended material is also having bigger pie than cotton base textiles in Egypt. Egyptknown as cradle of civilization is one of the most developed & diversified economy in the Middle East. Apart from being famous for its ancient monuments & preferred as an archeological tourist destination it is also known for having a niche textile industry encompassing around 4500 companies, of which 4301 companies are operating inland and 199 companies operating in free zones with total investment of USD 6 billion. The country is blessed with rich variety of soil & natural conditions that helps in producing the finestvariety of cotton famously known as king of cotton. Egypt has become one of the largest producers of long (LS) and extra-long staple (ELS) cotton, which accounted for 50% of world production in 2008. Thevarieties of king of Cotton produced in Egypt are Ginza 70, Ginza 86 & Giza 83 having average length of about 32mm, 29mm & 26.4mm respectively with uniformity ratio ranging between 48-50%. Over the decades I had always assumed Egypt to be a country producing cotton &only cotton. In fact throughout my textile engineering days I was fascinated by the term ‘Egyptian cotton’. However my recent visit to Egypt for the 7th international edition of Egy Stitch & Tex in Februarywas an eye openeras the Egyptian textile Industry reliesmajorly on other textile fibers with cotton contribution less than 50%. Although the country is producing cotton recognized globally for its unmatched quality the overall production sawdecline in 2016 falling to only 320,000 bales as against 525,000 bales in 2015. The major reason for this decline is change
in government reforms forcing farmers to shift cultivation towards other crops like sugarcane which faces comparatively less marketing challenges. However with recent anticipation of increase in total planted area it is estimated that total cotton production will increase by 23% accounting to 395,000 bales. Having capability of producing fine quality of raw material the country has a vertically integrated textile & Apparel Industry with 90% of spinning & weaving companies being publicly owned whereas the private sector dominates the downstream industry with over 70 per-
cent of garment production. The Egyptian Textile Industry is contributing 3% to national GDP generating an employment of around 1.2 million workers& engineers, which is about 30% of industrial work force & accountable for 16% of Egypt’s non-oil & gas exports accounting to US$ 2.6 Billion. The exports of textile & apparel industry in Egypt is around 2.75 Billion US$ in 2016 with USA, Turkey & Italy being major export partners. As the demands for textiles is everlasting &with global shift of textile industry from European to Asian & Middle East countries there is an huge market demand for producing fine textiles. Egypt can easily en-cash on this opportunity &become one of the leading textile industry in the world. It has an added advantage of competitive labour cost compared to regional countries of North Africa & Central and Eastern Europe, Also its strategic location makes it an ideal trading hub having easy access to Europe, Asia & other Africa countries thereby reducing
transportation cost thus opening doors to major markets. Moreover the easy
availability of raw materials reduces the overall costing of finished products. This boost to textile industry will shift the burden of Egypt’s economy generation from majorly contributing sectors like Tourism & Agriculture. In view of above & to further improve the socio-economic condition of Egypt by utilizing the core strength of the country’s natural resources & manpower,Government has come up with national textile strategy called Vision 2025. It is aimedto develop & establish state of art Textile city boosting the forward integration in textile & producing more & more value added end products rather than just yarns &fibers, ultimately create one million Jobs &target export of 10 billion US$. Egypt, is all set to take bigger challenges in textile industry & show its remarkable presence in global textile market not only as a supplier of superfine raw cotton but, also as a producer of niche quality textiles. I am sure like Egyptian pyramids, textile industry will produce “wonders” in global economy.
Mr. AvinAsh MAyekAr, MD & CeO suvin ADvisOrs Pvt LtD +91- 9322906199 www.suvininDiA.COM
ELECTROCHEMICAL TECHNIQUES APPLIED TO TEXTILE INDUSTRY AND WASTE WATER TREATMENT ABSTRACT:
he textile industry uses the electrochemical techniques both in textile processes (such as decolorizing fabrics and dyeing processes) and also in wastewaters treatments (color removal from waste water).The industry is in the need of New Green Technologies for different Textile processes and waste water treatment. There is growing awareness and readiness to adapt new green technologies for Cleaner Production methods. Such new green technologies help industries to achieve green production and cost reduction at the same time. Therefore there is an urgent need to promote new green technologies in textile processes. Electrochemical reduction reactions are mostly used in sulfur and vat dyeing, but in some cases, they are applied to effluents discoloration. These electrogenerated species are able to bleach indigo-dyed denim fabrics and to degrade dyes in wastewater in order to achieve the effluent color removal. The main objective of this paper is to review the electrochemical techniques applied to textile industry. KEY WORDS: Electrochemical, Textile, dyeing, sulfur dye, vat dye.
INTRODUCTION: Electrochemistry refers to the use of electrical energy in initiating chemical reactions, replacing traditional aid agents in direct chemical reactions. Traditionally, the electrochemical techniques have been used for the synthesis of compounds or for metal recovery treatments. But now dayâ€™s electrochemical techniques are used in the bleaching of textile materials. Their application in sulfur- and vat-dyeing processes is also interesting. In this case, dyes are reduced by means of an electrochemical reaction (instead of sodium dithionite). In this way, sulfur and vat dyeing become cleaner processes as the addition of chemical reagents is not required. Although the electrochemical methods
play an important role in the different textile processes listed above, their wider range of applications are related to color removal in wastewater treatments in particular, in the degradation of nonbiodegradable dyes (such as reactive dyes). This kind of dyes requires additional treatments to obtain uncolored effluents. In general, the electrochemical methods are cleaner than physicochemical and membrane technologies because they use the electron as unique reagent and they do not produce solid residues.
THE ELECTROCHEMISTRY IN THE TEXTILE PRODUCTION PROCESSES BLEACHING OF TEXILE MATERIALS Cotton bleaching takes place after the scouring process with the aim of destroying the natural raw color of this fiber. The most common reactive to provide whiteness to cotton is hydrogen peroxide. Chong and chu reported the use of electrochemical techniques to generate in situ this oxidant required for cotton bleaching by the electrolysis of oxygen in the presence of an alkaline electrolyte. This electrolyte proceeds from the scouring process. They propose the use of the electrolysis process in a combined scouring and bleaching process, and they concluded that the whiteness obtained in the combined method is comparable to that obtained with conventional methods. Although the electrochemical techniques have been applied to bleach raw fibers, their main application in bleaching field is the discoloration of indigoâ€“ denim-dyed fabrics. An important step in the processing of indigo-dyed textiles is the finishing of the garment to obtain the required visual effect. The removal or destruction of part of indigo requires a combination of mechanical agitation and chemical attack, mainly with oxidizing agents.
DYEING PROCESS: REDUCTION OF DYES Sulfur dyes are water-insoluble dyes, containing sulfur as an integral part of
the chromospheres group. Vat dyes, especially indigo, play an important role in textile industry. They are also insoluble in water and cannot dye fibers directly. They must be reduced in alkali medium to become soluble in water. When the dyes are absorbed onto the fiber, they return to their original form by a subsequent reoxidation. The alkaline-reduced form is required for the dyeing process and subsequently, when they are added to the fiber, they are oxidized to the insoluble form.Sodium dithionite (Na2S2O4) is the most used reducing agent in the industrial dyeing process with this kind of dyes, but after its reaction, it cannot be recycled. It also produces large amounts of sodium sulfate and toxic sulfite products. For this reason, the treatment of dyeing effluents requires the addition of hydrogen peroxide, which also causes high costs and other additional problems. The most attractive new procedures to reduce vat and sulfur dyes are electrochemical reduction methods, because the addition of reducing agents is not required. This method also avoids the generation of toxic products due to the reaction between the added reagents and the dye molecules. For all these reasons, electrochemical reduction processes are considered more suitable: no reagents addition is required, no byproducts are formed and no tertiary treatments are necessary to treat the final effluents. The energy is the only requirement of electrochemical methods. Electrochemical techniques constitute a promising field for the different steps of textile process, but their application to the dyeing of vat and sulfur dyes is specially interesting to avoid the use of reducing reagents.
WASTE WATER COLOR REMOVAL Several methods are used for the removal of organic dyes from wastewaters. Most of dyes are only partially removed under aerobic conditions in conventional biological treatments. As biological treatment is insufficient to remove color and to accomplish with current regulations,
COVER STORY the application of Some electrochemical color removal methods have been applied to industrial effluents. The current physico-chemical methods, based on the separation of dyes from the effluents, produce a residue which requires an additional treatment to be destroyed. Also, the absorbent materials require their regeneration after several treatments, and the filtration and membranes methods need cleaning treatments. Chemical oxidation methods are rather expensive and involve some operational difficulties. Biological treatments are a simple method but supply inefficient results in discoloration because dyes have aromatic rings in their large molecules that provide them chemical stability and resistance to the microbiological attack. Enzymatic decomposition requires further investigation in order to know which enzymatic process takes place; moreover, temperature and pressure have to be controlled to avoid enzymes denaturalization. For these reasons, the electrochemical methods are nowadays the subject of a wide range of investigations at laboratory and pilot-plant scale. The advantage of these electrochemical techniques is that electron is a clean reagent. They also have good versatility and high-energy efficiency. They are easy for automation and safety because it is possible to operate at smooth conditions.
Color Removal from Textile and other Industrial Wastewater using Ozone Ozone has been used for successfully for removal of color from textile wastewater streams in plants around the world as well as in other industrial wastewater processes. In wastewater treatment, ozone is often used in conjunction with biological treatment systems such as activated sludge. Organic dyes are mostly refractory due to their large molecular size and they can be poorly removed by adsorption on activated sludge. In some cases ozone has been used before the biological process, but mainly after biological treatment. If the wastewater is hardly biodegradable or toxic to activated sludge pretreatment is an option. Ozone can be used prior to a biological process since it has a tendency to convert organic molecules into smaller more bio-
degradable species. This can enhance the efficiency of the biological process. In addition, ozone treatment of wastewater increases the oxygen content of the water (unconverted oxygen and ozone that decomposes back to oxygen that was mixed with the water) which results in improvement in aerobic processes. While this benefit is well known in the literature it is difficult to practically apply since the amount of improvement is difficult to predict and pilot studies involving ozone and biological processes are difficult to carry out. The effect of ozone on improving biodegradability and reducing toxicity is worth noting in terms of the effect of the treated water on the receiving stream. Where the treated water is tested for toxicity, the impact of the treatment process on this parameter must be considered. Destroying one organic molecule, but creating more toxic ones in a treatment process has been observed, for example the ozonation of MTBE without any additional agents or treatment processes can result in a more toxic wastewater. Another consideration is the presence of surfactants and the need to remove these compounds from the water. In some locales surfactant concentrations are tightly controlled and must be kept under 1 ppm. This creates an additional demand for oxidant. Some textile waste waters contain both color and surfactants. Ozone is effective in removing the color from all dyes used in textile processing. The amount of ozone can vary depending on a number of factors: how much color was removed in the biological process, the type of dye used, where ozone is applied in the process, etc. Knowing the proper amount of ozone required to meet the color removal objective for the receiving water body is critical to the economics of the ozone system. In general it is not easy to predict the amount of ozone required, so in virtually all cases where specific previous experience is not available, pilot testing is employed.
CONCLUSIONS For different oxidation or reduction steps of the textile processes such as: bleaching denim fabrics or reduction of sulfur and vat dyes, where their applications are
available in both natural and synthetic fibers The electrochemical techniques is very much environment friendly and efficient too. They constitute a less harmful alternative than the traditional processes. In addition, the electrochemical treatments have been extensively applied to the decontamination of wastewaters from the textile processes. The possibility of reusing dyeing effluents treated by electrochemical methods is particularly interesting and it implies an important saving of water and salt.
C. L. Chong and P. M. Chu, “Bleaching cotton based on electrolytic production of hydrogen peroxide,”American Dyestuff Reporter, vol. 87, no. 4, pp. 13–19, 1998.
T. Bechtold, E. Burtscher, and A. Turcanu, “Direct cathodic reduction of Leuco Sulfur Black 1 and Sulfur Black 1,” Journal of Applied Electrochemistry, vol. 28, no. 11, pp. 1243–1250, 1998
Dyes Color Removal by Ozone and Hydrogen Peroxide: Some Aspects and Problems, R. Tosik, Ozone: Science and Engineering 27: 265-272
Y. Amano and Y. Y. Tanaka, “Treating agent for bleach processing,” Japanese Patent: Application number “JP1988000226387”, 1990.
T. Bechtold, P. Maier, and W. Schrott, “Bleaching of indigo-dyed denim fabric by electrochemical formation of hypohalogenites in situ,” Coloration Technology, vol. 121, no. 2, pp. 64–68, 2005.
M. D. Teli, P. Rohera, J. Sheikh, and R. Singhal, “Use of Amaranthus (Rajgeera) starch vis-à-vis wheat starch in printing of vat dyes,” Carbohydrate Polymers, vol. 76, no. 3, pp. 460–463, 2009.
E. Marte, “Dyeing with sulphur, indigo and vat dyes using the new RD process. Hydroxyacetone makes it possible,” Text Praxis International, vol. 44, p. 737, 1989.
A. Roessler and X. Jin, “State of the art technologies and new electrochemical methods for the reduction of vat dyes,” Dyes and Pigments, vol. 59, no. 3, pp. 223–235, 2003.
W. G. Kuo, “Decolorizing dye wastewater with Fenton’s reagent,” Water Research, vol. 26, no. 7, pp. 881–886, 1992.
10. N. Meksi, M. Kechida, and F. Mhenni, “Cotton dyeing by indigo with the borohydride process: effect of some experimental conditions on indigo reduction and dyeing quality,” Chemical Engineering Journal, vol. 131, no. 1–3, pp. 187–193, 2007. 11. W. Schrott, “Electrochemical dyeing,” Textile Asia, vol. 35, no. 2, pp. 45–47, 2004 12. M. A. Kulandainathan, A. Muthukumaran, K. Patil, and R. B. Chavan, “Potentiostatic
COVER STORY studies on indirect electrochemical reduction of vat dyes,” Dyes and Pigments, vol. 73, no. 1, pp. 47–54, 2007. 13. Removal of Dissolved Organic and color from dying Wastewater by Pre-Ozonation and Subsequent Biological Treatment, Takahashi, Nobuyuki; Kumagai, Tomoyo; Ozone: Science and Engineering, 28: 199-205
14. C. Hachem, F. Bocquillon, O. Zahraa, and M. Bouchy, “Decolourization of textile industry wastewater by the photocatalytic degradation process,” Dyes and Pigments, vol. 49, no. 2, pp. 117–125, 2001. 15.
S. Figueroa, L. Vazquez, and A. AlvarezGallegos, “ecolorizing textile wastewater with Fenton’s reagent electrogenerated
with solar photovoltaic cell,” Water Research, vol. 43, no. 2, pp. 283–294, 2009.
ProF. TAnveer MAlik , ProF. AjAy joshi FAculTy, DePArtMent Of textiLe teChnOLOgy shri vAishnAv institute Of textiLe teChnOLOgy, svvv inDOre
Digital Printing: The next big thing in the textile industry
fying either printing smaller designs onto garments (t-shirts, dresses, promotional wear; abbreviated as DTG, which stands for Direct to Garment) and printing larger designs onto large format rolls of textile. The latter is a growing trend in visual communication, where advertisement and corporate branding is printed onto polyester media, for example: flags, banners, signs, and retail graphics. It started in the late 1980s as a possible replacement for analog screen printing. With the development of a dye-sublimation printer in the early 1990s, it became possible to print with low energy sublimation inks and high energy disperse direct inks directly onto textile media, as opposed to print dye-sublimation inks on a transfer paper and, in a separate process using a heat press, transfer it to the fabric.
hey say that the looks are the first thing that attracts you to a thing or a person. Most of us enter a shop when we see something that pleases our eyes and makes us feel happy or wow. Isn’t this rule applicable to the thing we shop the most for, clothes? We all want to look our best and buy the best clothes. What is it that attracts you to clothes?
The patterns of the lines, the colors of the flowers, the colors, etc. are the things that attract me to a piece of cloth or outfit. In the past, people used to stitch these designs for days on an outfit. Even today, handmade designs are very well known and appreciated. However with advanced in technology, we along with hand weaving, digital prints have extensively entered the textile industry. Digital printing directly prints designs on the fabric. Per Textile Intelligence report, the current global output of digitally printed textile is growing at a steady annual rate of 25 per cent. Thoughdigitally printed textile’s worldwide share is mere 2 per cent currently, the rising pressure of shipping products in short duration is expected to increase the share in global textile printing to 5 per cent by 2017. Many designers and manufacturers have started using digital textile printing over the other form printings due to its practical approach.Before we study the market and growth of digital textile printing, let’s try and understand what is digital textile printing.
Digital textile printing is described as any ink jet based method of printing colors onto fabric. Most notably, digital textile printing is referred to when identi-
Within the digital textile printing for visual communication a division has to be made in: • low-volume dye-sub printers (e.g. ATPColor,Roland, D-Gen, Mimaki, Mutoh) • mid-volume wide format printers (e.g. Atexco, ATPColor,Roland, Durst, Hollanders Printing Systems, Vutek) •
high-volume industrial printers (e.g. Atexco, Reggiani, MS, Osiris, Stork, Konica-Minolta, Zimmer) With changing time and fashion, the application and requirement of the ‘textile market’ keep changing. The future use of the fabric is the starting point to identify exactly what is needed to produce a specific end-product. A ‘textile’ product may vary from natural yarns for garments,
through to synthetic fibres for flags and banners. As well as material concerns and application issues, economics come into play. Where the traditional textile print industry is accustomed to mass production with long-runs, the digital inkjet business mostly produces short-run nontextile products. This approach to digital textile printing is very different, and so is the expectation. Where sign-makers are familiar with a single process system, traditional textile printing is accustomed to several production steps. In the balance of the economics behind production needs, it is important to understand the entire production flow. An example lies with the choice of fixation equipment and the subsequent implication of energy and resource cost; for example, a steamer needs water and energy, and a calender needs to heat up and uses lots of energy plus considerable amounts of paper. Additionally, the impact on business by legislation and requests from customers with regard to environmentally friendly products, are increasingly becoming a factor. The reasons for a steady growth of digital textile printing are numerous. Digital printing is not only a higher creative form of textile printing; it also provides greater design flexibility, compared to screen printing. Designers prefer digital printing for small prints, as it is more cost efficient. The ask for the green and eco-friendly printing is also met by digital printing. Its eco-friendly form with lesser physical inventory levels leaving smaller
COVER STORY amount of carbon footprints. Digital printing includes direct printing on fabrics with printers, which saves almost 95 per cent of water and energy usage is reduced by 75 per cent, leading to minimum textile waste. Moreover, manufacturers that rely on digital textile printing easily adapt to swift changes in global trends in comparison to people involved in other forms of printing. The most complicated designs, which might take a long time if done by traditional printing or hand stitching, can be done easily using digital printing. The low cost of printing and fast-paced work, helps in the quick bulk production. One of the very fine examples of quick and dynamic digital printing is IPL tournament. With every season, we see change in each team’s uniform. The colors change, the prints change, the designs change, and
even teams are added. Digital printing helps in fulfilling this dynamic and quick demands.
nozzles, modern digital textile printing machines are advanced and offer great printing speed.
These factors support the rising graph of digital printing in global textile sector. Nevertheless, the future growth of digital textile printing widely depends on deeper penetration of digital printing into commercial print production. The machine manufacturers also need to develop technologically advanced production printers in order to survive competition from conventional forms of textile printing machinery.
Digital printing is next big thing in the textile industry, which is already capturing a lot of attention. It is only going to grow in coming years and become more and more advanced.
It’s not only about the competition from traditional printing methods but also technical hitch was the print speed of digital printing, something which has been taken care of. From adding more heads in a row to increase the firing frequency or increasing the number of
Ms. kruPA shAh eDitOriAL AssistAnt
Phad Painting: A folk art of Rajasthan
ndia is known as land of culture and traditional vibrancy through its conventional arts and crafts. India has 35 states with their own style and pattern of art, which is known as folk art. Folk art in India has a great potential in the international market because of its traditional aesthetic sensibility and authenticity.1 A variety of art forms have evolved over the years; some untouched by modernization, some adapting to new paint colours and materials.2 Indian folk art painting includes a brilliant battery of calendar and wall paintings, oilpaintings, canvas paintings, cloth paintings, cave paintings, miniatures and so on. The most famous types of Indian folk art paintings hence include various ancient Indian art forms such as Madhubani, Phad, Kalamkari, Orissa Paata, Warli paintings, etc. Indian folk art paintings usually deal with pictorial depictions of popular Hindu deities.3
of popular hindu gods, human portraits, common customs and rituals, and the elements of nature. Some of the popular folk paintings of Rajasthan includeSanjhya painting, phadpainting, pichwai painting and miniature painting.4
Folk paintings of Rajasthan
Folk paintings in Rajasthan are as diverse as its culture. All the paintings are completely handmade. Rajasthan has the numerous talented painters;they bring art to the forefront. The folk paintings of Rajasthan deal with pictorial depictions
Phad painting is originated in Bhilwara district of Rajasthan, India. It is a large painting on khadi or canvass.Small version of phad painting is known as ‘phadhye’.5 It is also spelled as par.6Phad or par
is story telling tradition of the Rajasthan which is 400 years old.7Phad is possibly derived from Sanskrit word ‘Patt’. These paintings have a very specific styles of representation filled with figures and pictorial incidents and form a kind of dramatic backdrop to epic story telling performances.8 The theme of these paintings is the depiction of local deities and their stories.9 History of Phad
Sanjhiya Painting Phad Painting
Two popular epic traditions are mostly illustrated in phad. Phads are made of other deities also but that are rare. Phad founds illustration ofRamdev Ji, a Rajput hero and saint from Marwar who opposed caste discrimination.Ramdevijilives in the 15th century. PabujiRathoreisone of the most popularRajput chieftains, whose story illustrates popularly on phads.Pabujilived in 14th century. His elder brother rules at Kolu. He is venerated as an incarnation of Lord Rama’s brother Lakshman by Rabari camel-herders. Another famous story is about the twenty four brothers (Bagrawat) & Lord Devnarayan. They are popular among cattle-keeper, farmers and rural craftsman who generally lives in the eastern part of Rajathan. Devnarayan
COVER STORY is an incarnation of Lord Vishnu and his story parallels Krishna’s story many way. Devnarayan lived in the 10th century A.D. They all are “Cattle Heroes” collectively known as “Bhomiyo”. Who rescued the community’s cattle and died as a result. Only some heroes become powerful gods and their devotees develop epic poems & network of shrines.10
shipped by the Rabaritribal’s of the Rajasthan. He is also known as the Ascetic Diety of sand-dessert. The epic, a courtly religious poem invoking Pabuji, has 4,000 lines.12The Pabujiphad is made on rectangular cloth normally about 15 feet in length and 5 feet wide.1
Colours and brush used in Phad Traditionally phads are painted with vegetable colours and waterproof mineral colours.1These colous remained fast and fresh for a long duration.5 Squirrel hairs used as brush.11 Artists innovation evolved in the form of waterproof earthen colours. They poundthe natural earthen colours with gum, water and indigo to produce the desired colours. They use colours in a fixed order starting from orange-yellow to brown, green, red and finally black.5 The artists use orange color for limbs and torso, yellow for ornaments, clothing and designs, gray for structure, blue for water and curtains, green for trees and vegetation and red for dresses, black is used for outlining.9 All these are outlined with bold black strokes, which give definition to these colours.5
For Devnarayan phad traditionally they use rectangular cloths may be 35 feet long by 5 feet wide.6 The Devnarayanphad is about 24 brothers (Bagrawat) and lord Devnarayan.8 In phad womens, horses, peacocks, carts, archers, battles, washer-men, fishermen, kings, queens, huge elephants, herds of white cows, buff camels, many-armed demos, fish-tailed wonder-creatures and blue skinned gods, all arranged around the central outsized figure of Pabuji. His magnificent black mare, KesarKalami, and his four great companions and brothers in arms are illustrated along with Pabuji.12The scale of figures in painting depends on the social status of the character they represent and the roles they play in the story. All figures in painting don’t face the audience; rather, they face each other.8
Methods of making phad painting Preparation of natural colors
Themes and motifs used in Phad Earlier phad contains illustrations of stories from life of heroes Pabuji, Devnarayan, Krishna, Ramdal (Ramayana), Ramdevji, Goga Chauhan, Prithviraj Chauhan, Aamar Singh Rathore, Tetaji and many others. It also displays the stories of Ramkrishnadala, Bhainsasura and Ramdev. But in todays the stories from the life of Pabuji and Narayandevji are primarily depicted.6 Pabuji is worshipped as a folk-deity lived in the 14th century, who is extolled as an incarnation of Hindu god and wor-
1. Preparation of fabric The process of making the cloth ready for painting is an important aspect ofphad painting. The cotton cloth is first stiffened with starch made of boiled flour and gum and then burnished with a special stone device called mohra. Mohrais a heavy stone which makes the fabric surface smooth.13 2. Actual Painting The commencement of painting is an occasion of great celebration for painter’s community.5 Then the fabric is divided by three painted lines vertically and then outlines of the figures are drawn out in
pale yellow color.14 The rough draft of the sketch is then made on prepared fabric by the main artist. All figures are coloured yellow initially it is called as kachcha. The first stroke of painting is drawn by a youngest virgin girl of the artists’ family.5In one painting at least seventeen to eighteen painters are involved. All the members of family involve to fill color in painting.After completing colouring all the painting is bordered in black. At last of the painting artist open the eyes of the main deity and only after opening eyes of main deityit becomes the Pabuji-Ki-Phad.12Painting takes much hard work. Sometimes it can take almost two months to finish one painting.11After continuous uses for many years the phad was immersed in Pushkar lake, but now this practice has been virtually abandoned.9 The phads are painted by professional painters called citero, known by the clan name Joshi of the Chipa caste.12Shree Lal Ji Joshi is a wellknown artist of phad painting.15
Preparing fabric Mohra Phadpainting in process
Performance of Phad Bhopa and Bhopi carry phad as portable temples and perform thatall over the desert lands of the Thar in Rajasthan through a combination of folk singing and dancing. At a time of travelling phads are rolled and kept, when they want to perform they erect the phad between two poles under a shamiana (an open tent). Bhopa is from Nayak community of Rajasthan to be priest singers of Pabuji from the village of Pabusar.12 His wife called a Bhopi.7Its recitation, from start to the end, takes five full night of eight hours duration from dusk to dawn.12 They perform all the year round, expect rainy season. Bhopas use ravanahanthaa musical instrument which crafts by himself, accompanied by dancing, continuous throughout the night.9,12
COVER STORY regarded as one of the most sought after folk paintings in the world of art and culture.5
2. Bhopa and bhopi performing phad
Phad painting is the most ancient Rajasthani art form. Phad paintings, essentially a scroll painting done on cloth, are beautiful specimen of the Rajasthani cloth paintings. The unique beauty of phadpaintings has fascinated art connoisseurs around the world. No wonder that today Phad Painting has come to be
Sharma E.(2015) Tribal Folk Arts of India. Journal of International Academic Research for Multidisciplinary, 3(5). http://www.thebetterindia.com/53993/10indian-folk-art-forms-survived-paintings/
Rajvanshi R., Srivastava M.(2013). Phad painting of Bhilwara, Rajasthan. Asian Journal of Home Science, 8(2), 746-749
The East-West center Gallery, tion(2014-2015) Honolulu, Hawai
13. Kalyan Joshi.(2016) Workshop of Phad painting, ParamparikKarigar, World Trade Centre Mumbai 14. Gillow J., Barnard N.(1993) Pabuji Par, Traditional Indian Textiles. London, Thames and Hudson Ltd. 15. http://www.indianetzone.com/photos_gallery/92/1_Sanjhya_Painting_Phad_Painting. jpg 16. http://www.indianetzone.com/photos_gallery/92/2_Pichhwai_Painting_Miniature_ Painting.jpg 17. http://phadchitra.com/makingphad.htm 18. https://d1drtiiz13sc9k.cloudfront.net/storyltd/2014/april/phad_14stor_14623_tbig. jpg 19. http://www.ignca.nic.in/coilnet/images/ devn/bphad001.jpg 20. http://phadchitra.com/makingphad.htm 21. http://blogimages.indianroots.com/wpcontent/uploads/2014/07/blog2.jpg
Ms. shruTi nAndkuMAr GurAv,
10. http://phadchitra.com/history.htm 11. http://www.thebetterindia.com/1943/chitrashala-keeping-phad-art-alive/ 12. http://www.thebetterindia.com/1943/chitrashala-keeping-phad-art-alive/
stuDent, M.sC. (textiLe sCienCe AnD APPAreL Design) Dr. Anshu shArMA, hOD AnD AssOCiAte PrOfessOr DePArtMent Of textiLe sCienCe AnD APPAreL Design s.n.D.t. wOMen’s university, MuMbAi.
Covestro provides boost to STEM Learning in India; sets-up four new mini science centres in G-Noida Covestro, the global manufacturer of highperformance polymer materials, in collaboration with STEM Learning Pvt Ltd, today inaugurated one of the four mini science centres at Jesus & Mary Convent School, Greater Noida. The other three science centers are installed at Ft. Agnal School, Subhash ChandraBose Inter College and Dayavati Inter College in Greater Noida. In continuance with its efforts to promote science education in India, the mini science centres established by Covestro and STEM Learning aim to enhance awareness among teachers and students about the value of learning, with a special focus on science and mathematics. The initiative also encompasses a unique teachers’ training program and facility maintenance for two years. With a mission ‘To make the world a brighter place’, Covestro aspires to provide innovative solutions, which change the lives of people for better. Science education in India is facing several challenges today. The basic problem that has persisted since inde-
pendence is our inability to provide schools with labs and equipment to be used while teaching science. The mini science centresare a powerful and innovative tool to revolutionise science education and make it increasingly accessible. These centres are an extension of a workshop conducted by Covestro India in New Delhi in October 2016,which was intended to drive STEM Learning among children; especially girls. Speaking at the inauguration of the centre, Richard Northcote, Chief Sustainability Officer, Covestro AG said, “Covestro aligns its CSR activities to the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals in order to contribute to improving the lives of those less fortunate in the the societies in which we operate. We believe these centres will benefit the youth of this area and contribute significantly to better enable these schools to build our children’s future, enabling them to make the world a brighter place tomorrow.”
Ajay Durrani, Managing Director, Covestro (India) Private Limited,“A robust culture of science and technology needs to be supplemented by sufficient infrastructure. After the success of Covestro’s STEM workshops we have been taking active measures to lend infrastructure support to our mission of promoting science education in India. Through such initiatives we will continue to push boundaries and enable a knowledge and research driven economy.” Ashutosh Pandit, Founder, STEM Learning, stated that he valued the growing partnership with Covestro to create a science revolution in India. He added, “STEM’s working science models are devised by experts with a close eye on the young, less-privileged children. Every school’s progress is mapped on regular intervals by us. We are bringing quality education to the rural regions, which will truly transform India.STEM has given a platform to thousands of students to create their own projects and their growth has been phenomenal.”
Interview with Taiwan Textile Federation (TTF)
n an exclusive interview with TTF Top Management: Mr. Sean Tsai is Overseas Marketing Development head. The TTF is an important institution for promoting Taiwan’s textile industry. In the future, it will exert the core competencies, marketing and design, to build up the synergy of vertical integration among the sectors by employing the advantages of Taiwan’s chemical fibers into excellent functional fabrics and the linkage with Taiwan’s apparel production overseas. The aim is to increase the irreplaceability of Taiwan’s textile products in the marketplace.
TVC: from last 5 years you are exhibiting the TECHNOTEX Exhibition, what is your feedback and what’s the Indian response to Taiwanese Product? Mr. Sean Tsai: We started participating the exhibition from 2013; when Indian government offered us to visit and we find its very potential market. During these 5 years we are going through out the market of textile & found tremendous growth in several sector & found fashion sector buyers most promising.
TVC: According to you in which sector of
technical textile is growing? Mr. Sean Tsai: Protected (safety) textile is in high demand, also in sports, outdoor fabrics, shoe material, luggage & bag materials and non woven products (for hygiene, wipe, medical and etc.)
TVC: What will be your Market share for each segment of technical texiles?
Mr. Sean Tsai: I don’t have much idea about technical textile market share. Taiwanese chemical fabrics have different application but packing and shoe material is majorly targeted and our market share is 40%.
TVC: India has options for import from Asian countries like China, Korea, Taiwan & Japan. Why do Indian prefer Taiwanese product than others? Mr. Sean Tsai: There are a major difference among these countries in terms of products and market segmentations. China makes basic fabrics and apparels while Japanese makes advance textile materials. In fact, instead of competing, China and Japan are Taiwan’s very important trade partners. Taiwan is seeking for the same with India. Taiwan textiles are highly focusing on creating values and innovations. As a result of substantial investment in research and development, Taiwan has demonstrated
its advancement in functional textile by bringing to the global market innovative products year after year. Taiwan is the prime fabric supplier for international leading brands for outdoor and sports sector. Furthermore, the advanced materials are also being used in many other industrial applications.
TVC: How is the textile industry in Taiwan? Mr. Sean Tsai: Industry in Taiwan Divided into 2 parts 1-Domestic manufacturers who are focusing on high technical fabrics and advanced materials, especially for sports and outdoor brands and industrial use. Their strengths are its R&D and being able to keep up with world latest standards. 2-International manufacturers who keep its design team / a coordinate office in Taiwan and manufacture at overseas. These companies are focusing on mass market traditional textiles. Their strengths are its design power and fast response to the market trend.
TVC: What was the ratio of manufacturer of conventional and functional textile in Taiwan? Mr. Sean Tsai: I don’t have actual data; but approximately 70% is functional textile while 30% is conventional textile. Functional textile is not technical textile; it includes sports, outdoor apparel, fashion active wear. In Taiwan Technical textile means non apparel use of textiles.
POST EVENT REPORT
INTERNATIONAL APPAREL AND TEXTILE FAIR 6TH EDITION PROVES A STRONGER INDUSTRY
he 6th edition of International Apparel and Textile Fair (IATF) hadreceived tremendous support from apparel and textile manufacturers in the country and worldwide. The three-day event that took place from 8th to 10th April 2017 was inaugurated by H.E Butti Saeed Al Ghandi, Second Vice-Chairman of the Dubai World Trade Centre on 8th April at 10:30 am at Zabeel Hall 1, Dubai World Trade Centre. With more than 100 exhibitors from various countries around the world who participated in the fair, IATF has once again proven its status as UAE’s exclusive sourcing fair for textiles and clothing. IATF attracts some of the world’s largest manufacturers of fabrics and leading print design studios. Exhibitors were mainly from Turkey, China, Italy, Spain, India, UK and many more.
The fair provides manufacturers and their agents the opportunity to showcase their products to the most influential buyers and designers in the UAE fashion sphere. The event further offers buyers, distributors and designers the opportunity to view a wide range of textiles from the most prestigious global mills. The 6th edition of International Apparel and Textile Fair had attracted 2980 buyers who were mainly from the UAE and GCC region. A number of visitors came
all the way from Oman, Saudi Arabia, Lebanon, Kuwait and Qatar. Other buyers came from all across Asia, African countries, Europe, the USA and Australia.
world’s 11th biggest clothing importer with $4 billion import value. Next to London, Dubai is the second global city having the highest percentage (55%) of international retailers.
International industry professionals from prestigious organizations and companies namely Wrap Compliance, Right Source, Sin – Style Innovation and HeliozidOce Emirateshad spoken in a series of talks during these three days. Relevant information on future trends, designs and innovations were provided to visitors by the speakers, in addition to being introduced to Worldwide Accredited Responsible Production (WRAP). Speakers from local institutions of Manipal University, Esmod Fashion Institute, Amity University and American University in the Emirates had also provided the audience further information on various topics about the fashion industry.
IATF’s Show Director, Mr. Dilip Nihalani continuously focuses in making the show bigger and diversified by attracting more exhibitors with different product lines every edition to cope with the growing demands of the apparel and textile market in the region. Mr. Nihalani was quoted saying “We are proud to continuously bring in and introduce prominent manufacturers from all across the globe to the clothing and textile buyers and retailers not only here in Dubai or the UAE or the GCC, but the whole of the MENA region. We are glad with the support that we are getting ever since we had started this show in 2014. “
A show such as International Apparel and Textile Fair is much needed in the region as the UAE continues to see robust growth in the clothing and textile industry. The last few years had shown remarkable increase in retail sales on apparel, making it as one of the most attractive sectors in the UAE. The apparel industry in the region provides opportunity for international retailers to expand in the UAE. The country is also the
Meanwhile, International Apparel and Textile Fair 7th edition is set to take place on 1st, 2nd and 3rdNovember 2017 for its Autumn/Winter edition. ### About International Apparel & Textile Fair International Apparel and Textile Fair – Dubai is UAE’s exclusive and premiere platform for sourcing apparels, fashion, fabrics, prints, clothing accessories, machineries and home textiles. IATF is a bi-annual event being organized by Nihalani Events Management.IATF 6th edition had showcasedSpring/Summer 2018 pre-collections and Autumn/Winter 2018 highlights. Principally a “Trade Only” event, IATF provides a professional and conducive atmosphere to business and networking in response to the need of a dedicated trade exhibition in Dubai, UAE. The show has been designed for a quality event for the fabrics and apparel business in the MENA region.
POST EVENT REPORT
Fashion N Kids Conclave
he Children & Baby Maternity Expo 2017 witnessed some great new initiatesthis year like the “Fashion N Kids Conclave”. This conclave wasconceptualized & cumulated by Suvin Advisors on 12th April 2017 from 10.00am to 1.00pm. The conclave provided platform to entire value chain in kidswear segment for knowledge sharing on latest developments & provided expert opinions on safety & quality control issues in Textiles used for kidswear& Baby products. TheSession began with a welcome note by Mr. Pankaj Shende – Project head of CBME followed by Mr. Avinash Mayekar , Managing Director & CEO, Suvin Advisors key note address on “Overview of Kids wear & specialized textiles for babies & kids.” The Conclave then addressed the various segments in kids wear value chain starting with Mr. Ritesh Khandelwal, Vice President Global Business Development, Birla Cellulose presentation on “Role of Viscose in Kids wear” providing great insights about the specialized characteristics of Viscose & how Birla cellulose viscose Fibre “Liva” is preferred by moms for its gentle feel & comfort. He also
announced that Aditya Birla group will soon be venturing into kids wear sector & launching their own kids wear brand. Later, Mr. Sundarmurthy Krishnan, National Head-Intertek provided an informative talk on “Quality control issues in Kids wear” & how care needs to be adopted while selecting accessories for kids & babies apparels. He also highlighted thevarious do’s &don’ts that needs to be taken care of whileusing garment accessories such as zippers and fastners. Mr. Kamal Johari Managing Director, Nobel Hygiene enlightened the delegates on “Innovation in diaper technology” presenting evolution of diapers & highlighted various difficulties faced by Indian manufacturers for producing good quality & cost effective product. Later on Mr. NitinMathur –Product Manager, IIGM presented on “Innovation in Garmenting techniques” showcasing latest stitching machineries & advanced technologies available to avoid sharpened accessories & fasteners from causing injuries to the kids. The conclave was then addressed by Ms. Manjiri Paranjape-Sr. General Manager- Rossari Biotech on “Role of Dyes & Chemicals in Kids wear” She explained
how chemicals can be used to provide specialized properties like fragrance, Anti-odour, Antimicrobial, Mosquito repellant etc in kidswear & various alternatives to hazardous chemicals. The conclave then witnessed Panel discussion on “Environmental Evolution of Fashion on Kidswear” Moderated by Mr. Avinash Mayekar &the panelist were Dr. Ullhas Nimkar – Managing Director – Nimkartek Technical Services, Mr. Vikas Sharan- Vice President- ATE Enterprises Pvt. Ltd. , Manish Daga- Managing director -Cotton Guru, Mr. Kamal Johari – Nobel Hygiene & Mr. Sundarmurthy Krishnan- Intertek. The Panel discussed on the future growth prospect in kidswear industry & provided expert opinion on international norms, Future of cotton based products, treatments to be adopted to reduce impact of effluents caused by dyes & chemicals& many other issues. The conclave concluded with thanking note & an urge to textile Industry to come forward & create many more such events to help India become a global leader in kids wear segments.
POST EVENT REPORT
International Summit on Textile Colouration-2017 By SDC
nternational Summit on Textile Colouration-2017 - Colouring the Emperor’s clothes, held Wednesday 08th March 2017 was the first International conference organised by the SDC International Limited a subsidiary of the Society of Dyers and Colourists.
When I rewind my memories of the conference it is difficult to summarise the fresh ideas and suggestions that were not ‘traditional’. I would attempt to bring forward some important learning and outcomes from the conference. The intension is to highlight the general agreements that should help professionals around the world to create a better understanding about sustainable innovations and ideas. Being a woman’s day the conference did have respectable contribution from the woman’s present.
Key points discussed by speakers and panellists: Inaugural session Being woman’s day the event was started by Ms Sadhana Kanekar who welcome all and wished happy woman’s day to all present. The traditional lightning of the lamp was done by Mr Anjani Prasad, Dr Graham Clayton, Mr Tharaka De Silva and Mr Shakir Hafeez. Mr Yogesh Gaikwad informed the audience about SDC and its activities and informed about the benefits of SDC membership. Mr Shakir Hafeez, the chief guest for the event represented the SLABA (Sri Lanka Brands Association) a body which brings together the apparel manufactures and brands together on one platform. He urgent the government to take steps to encourage the local brands Mr Anjani prasad in his key note expressed: Awareness about safely handling of hazardous chemicals is needed not only in manufacturing but also during farming of cotton and other fibres grown on
land. y Collaborations needed between brands, dyehouses, dye manufacturers and retailers. The challenges for executing sustainable initiatives needs agreement throughout the supply chain. y Among the major challenges, human rights remain a priority
values to realistic levels is needed Universities and college should create curriculum that allows graduates / post graduates to be recruited as experts in the industry. On job training should be provided to students before they are awarded relevant qualifications y Technical challenges need to be understood at design stage so that realistic strategies can be planned for products to be developed y Training of professionals across the supply chain to update their understanding about latest innovation and the best practice guidelines. SDC trainings can provide expert and unbiased advice. y
Session1: -Compliance in Colour Panel Discussion: The panel discussion was moderated by Mr Yogesh Gaikwad, SDC International and has the following panellists: Mr Pranav Gayatri-Vice President (Archroma), Ms Isuru Punchihewa Senior Merchandiser (Limited Brands), Mr Vikas Gangrade Service and Support Manager – Indian Sub-Continent (Datacolor Solutions Private limited) The ideas and agreements during the session were: y Colour is the most important criteria for brands and manufacturers. It dominates strategies form by various stake holders throughout the supply chain. Consistency in colour y Standardisation of resources used for colouration of textiles like dyes and auxiliaries. Tolerance limits should set by specifiers from brands and retailers y Tolerance set for colour difference variations should be in sync with the right first time achievability with structured fabrics. Challenge to get same colour on differently structured fabrics needs to be addressed by brands and dyehouses and tolerance limits to be set accordingly. y Complete digitisation of the colour management process throughout the supply chain is need of the hour. It will help brands to reduce lead time and errors in communicating colour. Co-operation from major stake holders can help this to happen. y Awareness about assessment criteria for fluorescent colours need to be popularised among the stake holders and standardisation of tolerance
Speaker Mr Vikas Gangrade spoke on ‘Virtual Formulation Process’ Match textile fro Datacolor MATCH TEXTILE a smart color matching software helps its users to: y Define dyestuff combinations which are considered compatible and help to generate recipe with them y Minimise reprocessing/corrections due to shade drift caused by finishing treatment y Optimise dH values for the first or for multiple illuminates for recipe predication as well as recipe correction y Judge appearance of single colour on multiple substrates under multiple illuminates y Faster creation of digital shade cards
Speaker Mr Yogesh Gaikwad spoke on ‘A Review of how we view colour’ The highlights of his presentations were: y Variations in visual perception of colour due to mood, anxiety and diabetes y Importance of colour in various cultures and its importance in design and fashion y Best practices for visual and instrumental assessment provided by the SDC y Colour Blindness and its impact in colour perception
POST EVENT REPORT Speaker Mr Navneet Krishnan, Archroma India Pvt Limited spoke on ‘Balancing the cost of compliance with more sustainable production’ Mr Krishnan stressed that sustainability was no more a ‘buzz word’ and is now being perceived as ‘imperative action’. Brands which are demonstrating sustainability have seen increase in sales. Consumers demand for sustainable fashion and pressure from NGO will be the ‘game changer’ in future. Designing process and defining products that meet compliance norms is very much needed. This can be achieved with ONE WAY systematic approach. The first step is: Product Selection, the selection of products. The second step is: Process Short Listing .The third step is: Solution Selection. Possible measurements with the ONE WAY Calculator include: – The cost and performance of a given product process based on relevant parameters such as dyes and chemicals, water, energy or time; – Their environmental profile based on actual measurements of chemical oxygen demand (COD), biological oxygen demand (BOD), CO2 emissions, energy consumption and water usage. Speaker 1, DIMITRI ARJUN DE ALWIS, Prototyping Company (Pvt) Ltd spoke on ‘Innovations in 3 D Digital printing, Personal Manufacturing’ Mr Arjun, provided information about the 3 D digital printing and innovation that have taken place. He gave a realistic review of what can be done and at what cost. 3D printing is an additive manufacturing technique i.e. joining of material layer by layer to create an object. It can be used to manufacture custom-made clothing, customised machine parts, engineering spare parts and many more. The technology is under evolution and is taking shape to create customised products in minimum time and better accuracy with little or no wastage. Speaker 2 and 3, Mr Pranav Gayatri(Archroma India Pvt Limited) & Mr Sachin Nigam Archroma India Pvt Limited spoke on ‘Challenges & solutions for ecological sustainability in textile processing’
Mr Sachin started with challenges being faced by the dyers and colourists due to changing ‘eco-norms’. How changes bring in challenges and challenges bring opportunities. The focus was previously on fabric (RSL) and has now shifted to chemicals (MRSL). Number of chemicals need to be reduced and ‘Blue Magic’ from Archroma offers a solution. ‘Blue magic’ is an All-in-one discontinuous pre-treatment process. Mr Pranav addedOne single product delivers an efficient, economic and short discontinuous pretreatment. Whether you need a readyfor-dyeing grade or the brighter optical white, the Blue Magic process will deliver it. Without a separate rinsing, with less water, shorter time and reduced energy. It is so simple that it seems like Magic! Speaker 4, Dr Graham Clayton, ‘SDC spoke on SDC and its Sri Lanka Region formation’ A briefly talked about SDC looking for International collaborations. He provided information on opportunities for educational development available with SDC for Textile professionals in Sri Lanka through the ‘Virtual learning environment’. The ASDC course of SDC which were talked about being equivalent to Honours Degree in UK are now being independently assessed by NARIC(UK NARIC is the designated United Kingdom national agency for the recognition and comparison of international qualifications and skills). This provides textile professional an opportunity to get access to SDC qualification from their resident country. Speaker 5, Mr Yogesh Gaikwad, SDC International, ‘Designing for Circular economy’ Mr Yogesh mentioned his concerns fast fashion being sustainable business model. Fashion, though accepted by some designers as a polluting industry still remains ignorant about its effect on the delicate balance of ecology. Products are being developed from recycled plastic on beaches to recycled pet bottles. Recycling reduces the pressure on land based crops like cotton, viscose and linen. In recent trends the investor are also been questions about their investment being ecofriendly/sustainable. Panel Discussion: Challenges in Com-
pliance for Colouration Industry The panel discussion was moderated by Mr Anjani Prasad, Archroma and has the following panellists: Ms Nipunika Wijedeera, -Intertek Lanka (Pvt) Ltd, Mr DIMITRI ARJUN DE ALWIS , Prototyping Company (Pvt) Ltd, Mr Anuradha Jayasinghe Brandix Apparel Solutions Limited – Essentials, Eng. S. Ilangovan Sri Lanka Institute of Textile & Apparel
The points discussed and deliberated were as follows: y Dyes which can be recycled by stripping them from fabric completely can be very helpful in reuse of these dyestuff. Pigments use less water but have limitations with the binder system. Dyes like reactive are difficult to strip completely and pose a major challenge. y Digital printing is gaining importance however the water use for purification of inks remains a major concern y Test results of banned products due to ‘false detection’ needs to be understood by brands and laboratories and considered on merits. y Variation in test results from laboratory to laboratory is a major concern as this causes delays in shipments and confusion. The cause may be the fabric itself and may be test conditions and use of authentic consumables. Laboratories at dye houses or 3rd party testing need to use authentic materials for testing and follow agreed norms. y 3D printing has a good scope in textile as it can eliminate narrow down all stages of manufacturing to a single process. It finds use from spare parts manufacturing to tissue printing (which does sound scary if integrated with artificial intelligence). y Proximity to air pollution during storage of textiles can also lead failed test results. Packing material also has its threats for containing banned products which can get transferred to textile during storage. y Certification of natural dyes is difficult as many contain huge amounts of heavy metals which are used as mordant. y Lignosulphate based dispersing agent are a better option than naphtha-
POST EVENT REPORT lene based products and should be encouraged. Speaker 6, Mr Navneet Krishnan, Brand Marketing-Asia, Archroma India Pvt Limited, My ‘Green’ Story. Mr Navneet Krishnan stressed on need for innovative and unique approaches to manufacturing of dyes for textile colouration. Archroma offers Bio Synthetic dyes. Earth colours are bio synthetic alternative that utilizes natural waste from the agricultural or herbal industry. The patented technology addresses two key concerns of the textile industry: sustainability and traceability. These sulfur-based dyes are designed for use on cellulosic fibers, such as cotton. While most dyes in the textile industry are synthetic, using petrochemicals (oil) as a base. Speaker 7, Dr Graham Clayton Spoke on ‘SDC’s International Design Competition 2017’ The International Design Competition is a key part of SDC’s engagement with universities, helping to deliver colour science education to fashion and design students. Dr Graham provided an insight of how the SDC’s International design competition has helped the winners, finalists to excel in their professional careers. Sri Lanka will be the venue for the Finale of the design competition for 2017. Colour is the important criteria for this competitions and students have come up with unique ideas that can be
turned in real products. Speaker 8, Lonali, House of Lonali spoke on ‘Making fashion ‘Green’ together’ Lonali put forward a perspective of a designer and entrepreneur. She stressed on need for designers to design and promote ‘green’ products. Customers are feeling the impact of pollution on themselves and the environment and will demand sustainability initiatives from brands. As a producer of upcycled products she face challenges to deliver bulk quantities as the raw material is not available at right time in needed quantities. Transparency in information about how products are produced in the key to identification of authentic suppliers of ‘green’ products. Panel Discussion: Challenges in Compliance in Fashion The panel was moderated by Mr Yogesh Gaikwad and included panellist Ms Lonali Rodrigo Brand ‘Lonali’ Founder, Ms Udara Wickramarathna Freelance Designer, Ms Isuru Punchihewa Senior Merchandiser (Limited Brands), The points discussed and deliberated were: y The textile chemistry and fashion design students and professionals need to collaborate together as this would lead to better understanding about
each other’s initiative and how these can be used for creating sustainable approaches to ‘green’ products. Fast fashion’ has been widely viewed as a successful business model. However it has its areas of concern, is it making customers buy products that they don’t ‘really’ need? Is it putting pressure on manufacturers to produce more at cheaper cost at the cost of human rights? It was deliberated that ‘fast fashion’ can be taken as an opportunity for organisations who want to differentiate with sustainability story, unique customise manufacturing and providing these products online to global customers. Business income and sustainability targets should carefully balanced by organisations in future to create a market for ‘green’ products Products accredited as safe by accrediting bodies are helping end users to purchase safer products
Summary The International Summit achieved a significant impact on its audience. Most significantly it highlighted the need for aggressively promoting ‘green’ initiatives, innovations, and suggestions that can either eliminate or reduce hazardous chemical and create cleaner textile colouration. From design to the customer’s washing machine, customer preference and sustainability will remain the emperor for the new clothing world.
Environment friendly enzymatic desizing and scouring process
Pad batch and continuous with single product
n today’s time when the environmental responsibility is becoming a challenge for textile processers, more and more people are looking towards chemical suppliers for a solution. Buyers also prefer textile processors who employ green chemistry and in turn reduce the overall environmental impact viz. carbon footprint etc. In a broad way the textile processing includes Pretreatment – Desizing, Scouring, Bleaching & Mercerization, Dyeing and washing, Printing and Fin-
ishing in which maximum ETP load and utility consumption happens during pretreatment particularly if done in continuous process. So, the need of the hour is to develop process or product which can substantially reduce the ETP load. Another aspect which really impacts the processors is the high probability of catalytic damage when the fabric is processed through continuous bleaching range. Normally it is taken care by using sequestering or chelating agents dur-
ing continuous bleaching. The pH which comes out during the bleaching is highly alkaline which in turn makes the bleaching harsh. The real challenge is to reduce the bath pH (by using min. amount of caustic) so as to make the process gentler while continuous processing. One of the processof doing it is to carry out an enzymatic scouring along with desizing during pad-batch process or pad-steam process, which was not so effective as Alpha amylase and pectinase produces op-
NEWS timum performance at different pH.The making of a stable product with combination of alpha amylase and pectinase and need of special detergent or wetting agent which will not affect the performance of amylase and pectinase. It was not possible to meet all the above parameters and getting a consistent result was always an issue, but with the use of Ezyscour SPE results can be achieved without compromising the quality of processing. It is the combination of detergent, pectinase and alpha-amylase which is stable for long time, doesn’t compromise with either pectinase or amylase performance and gives excellent result either in Pad-Batch or in Continuous process. The advantage of the product is that, in case of Pad batch process only an hour’s time is required for batching
contrary to existing norms of 6-8 hrs, were as in continuous process, it requires no steam and dwelling time of 15-20 min at 60 OC is sufficient to complete the desizing and enzymatic scouring process. The quick acting enzymes present in the formulation ensures that the desizing and scouring action are over very quickly and no need of steam required during continuous desizing.Once this process is complete the caustic concentration in the bulk can be drastically reduced and the caustic required will be only to achieve the bleaching pH and not for scouring. The product and process are robust in nature and user friendly and the robustness of the product makes it stand out from the rest. It has robust performance through pH 5.5 to 8.5 though the optimum performance is at 5.5. This
actually takes out the very practical problem of pH dependency of the process where slight variation in standard condition drastically affects the final result. The product Ezyscour SPE is the answer to the environmental concerns of textile processing industry without compromising the quality of processing.
month, the spinners have increase the prices of various deniers upto Rs. 5-6/ kg. The weavers were closely watching the yarn price movements since february end. They were waiting for price reduction to purchase yarn. But there expectation remain failed and now they are finding it difficult to stock yarn.
the powerloom clusters of Ved Road and Pandesara. The Ved Road Art Silk Small Scale Co-operative Federation and Pandesara Weavers Co-operative Society are operating yarn banks, which provide an opportunity to the weavers to get rid off yarn price fluctuations. These yarn banks procure yarn from frontline spinners in bulk quantity. The banks allow the weavers to procure yarn on credit and repay the amount in instalments.
Mr. GAnesh srinivAsAn, exeCutive DireCtOr- innOvAtiOn resiL CheMiCALs PrivAte LiMiteD
SURAT REPORT Heavy demand of Lycra fabrics for value addition The light weigth Lycra fabrics is glitterig in Surat based synthetic textile market. This fabrics is being used more widely for value addition in designer synthetic saree and dress. The popularity for saree, dress materials, dupatta made with lycra fabric has increased over the past few months. Local market sources said, because of its stretch, soft and brighness, Lycra fabrics has attrected large number of Customers. Embroidery and hand worked galaxy, football and other attactive design of lycra fabrics has given a new look to finished textile fabrics. Lycra fabrics is manufactured on circular knitting machine. The retailors from all across the country are now demanding value added fabrics, particularly those produced with lycra fabrics. In marraige season and comming Ramzan festival, the bright and value added fabrics demand will rise and hence the local weavers and raw grey fabrics manufacturers has raise the production of lycra fabrics by 20 to 30 percent.
FDY, Roto, Crimp yarn prices serged upto Rs.5/Kg Once again, the polyester synthetic-texurised yarn prices are incresing in Surat local market. In the two sale of April
After rise in crude oil price, yarn manufacturers have increased the prices of yarn by Rs 4 per kilogram. But now, spinners are operating a price cartel to pressurise the weavers. The increase in the prices of yarn is playing havoc with the weaving industries. Yarn prices are unjustified and they are loosing margin. In the past few days, the polyroto, FDY and crimp deniers prices are increased by 5% to 10% and it has raise the production cost of raw grey fabrics.
Yarn banks corpus fund increased to Rs 2 crore The textile ministry has increased the corpus fund for Surat’s two yarn banks from Rs 1 crore to Rs 2 crore. By this decision more powerloom weavers of Pandesara and Ved Road indusrial areas will be able to get various kind of yarn at concessional rates. In the year 2015, the central government had sanctioned two yarn banks in
Last year, the yarn bank society has made a representation to the textile ministry to increase the fund alocation. There are around one lakh weavers in Ved Road and Pandesara clusters and the yarn bank is able to cater to only 100 units. On 1st April, the central government has announced a package scheme for powerloom sector, ‘Power Tex India’. With this scheme, the textile ministry increased the corpus fund for the Surat yarn bank to Rs 2 crore each and bank guarantee reduced from 50 per cent to 25 per cent. Now, with the increased fund, more powerloom weavers will get yarn price benefit. These yarn bank also gets yarn from around the world and store them. The domestic industry can get access to yarn samples of global standards and do further research and come out with innovative products.
COTTON REPORT India New Season Arrivals (18.4.2017): Exporters are not very active in the market as the depreciation of the US dollar has made Indian cotton less competitive in the international market. Spinning mills are keener to cover limited quantity of quality cotton for their immediate requirements. Many mills shave booked imported cotton for consumption from May to July.Recent reports show that imports from USA are getting delayed. It is advisable for the mills to have some buffer stock to mitigate the risk of delayed shipments and forthcoming Indian monsoon season.
ince mid-March, cotton arrivals in 2016-17 have overtaken arrivals in 2015-16. As per CCI, total arrivals as on 18.4.2017 were 28.63 million bales compared to 28.22 million bales during the same period last year. Similarly as per private agency Just Agri, total arrivals as on 18.4.2017 were 28.20 million bales. Gujarat remains the main concern with a shortfall of 2 to 2.5 million bales to achieve the target crop of 9.1 to 9.5 million bales. Most traders are expressing serious doubts whether the target will be achieved considering the quantity and quality of current arrivals. Since last few days, daily arrivals have been in the range of 77000-85000 bales. Major arrivals are in Gujarat, Maharashtra and Telangana.
Domestic Market Summary: Gujarat S6 price chart 15th Mar to 19th Apr 2017
The increase in domestic market in yarns has been more than in exports. The January rally has been more due to the domestic pipeline being empty as most customers did not buy in NovDec due to the demonetisation. So when demand started and price started moving upwards suddenly everyone came back to cover and fill their pipeline to keep enough stock. The euphoria has subsided as of now, but most of the mills already have a steady demand for quality yarn. Exports markets have not responded as much as domestic. Decrease in USD rate against the INR, has made exports very difficult. China bought good quantities in Nov-Dec 2016, but in last 3 months it has hardly bought anything. In fact, reasonable pricing of their cotton auction price has made Chinese spinners more competitive. Indian spinners have average sales of one month and there are no ready stocks. Yarn prices have decreased during last month but there may not be a huge reversal in yarn prices on an immediate basis. Simultaneously, price rise also seems to be very difficult.
Yarn Bank: Prices of Indian Shankar-6 variety moved in a narrow range of Spot INR 43500 to 44300 during the last fortnight. In fact, the prices have seen a steady decrease following the recent USDA and ICAC reports showing high planting intentions in cotton growing countries, especially USA. The correction and control in prices is also due to the arrivals of sub-standard cotton in the market. Both farmers and ginners are keen to off-load this low quality cotton and prefer to hold on to high quality stocks.
Textile Ministry has increased the corpus fund for Indiaâ€™s first yarn banks in Surat, Gujarat from INR 10 million to INR 20 million.The two yarn banks: Ved Road Art Silk Small Scale Cooperative Federation and Pandesara Weavers Co-operative Society were able to cater to only 100 weavers. Now around 200 weavers will be able to get assistance.Bank guarantee to procure yarn has also been reduced from 50 to 25 %.
COTTON REPORT Focus Sector: Spinning:
mills and higher borrowings.
INDIAN Production v/s Mill-Use (In Lakh Bales)
Further, ICRA said, the growth in spun-yarn production declined to a 5-year low in FY17. The improved competitiveness of PSF (polyester staple fibre) compared to cotton resulted in a 5 % Y-o-Y growth in noncotton yarn production in FY17. The yarn output is estimated to have decreased by 2 %. The domestic spinning industry remains highly dependent on exports, with over 32% of India’s cotton yarn having been shipped during the past 5 years. High dependence on exports to China and China’s policy on sale of reserve cotton stock warrant a cautious outlook on yarn exports.
It is obvious from the above chart that although cotton production is decreasing in India, domestic consumption has been rising over the years and it may well reach 32 million Bales. COTTONGURU ™ strongly feels that the Government and Textile industry must ensure that cotton production does not decrease substantially otherwise the Indian Spinning sector will have a major setback. Also there needs to be a conscious and focussed effort to improve the quality of Indian cotton.
International Market Summary: As per USDA, the world cotton production rose from 105.72 million bales to 106.30 million bales up by 1% from the previous month while the consumption is pegged marginally higher from the last month and stood at 112.59 million bales. In the meanwhile, world ending stocks have increased slightly to 90. 91 million bales basically because of higher Chinese stocks.
With 47 million Spindles and 0.75 million Open-End Rotors, India has the world’s second largest spinning capacity, commanding a share of the global Cotton Yarn market – currently producing over 4700 million Kgs of spun yarn of which over 3,400 million Kgs is cotton yarn. Cotton Yarn accounts for nearly 73% of total spun yarn production. Indian Spinning Industry is the most modern and efficient in the world. India produces a comprehensive range of yarns for every conveyable end use – non-spun or open-end; combed or carded, basic, compact, mélange or fancy. India’s 1943 spinning mills produce them all for requirements ranging from a fine 200 count to a coarse 2 count. Today, Indian yarn is widely accepted in International markets as the exporters here regularly meet the needs of importers with unmatched efficiency and economy in countries like USA, Italy, Spain, Japan, China, South Korea, Taiwan, Bangladesh, Vietnam etc. ICRA sure
report: Spinners’ profitability may remain under pres-
China: Chinese cotton imports will remain suppressed next season, as the government continues to reduce cotton stocks, while production recovers, US. This drawdown in stocks will keep pressure on imports. The USDA reports estimates from industry sources that government cotton sales could reach 3.79million tons in 2017, up from 2.66million tons. The gap between China’s domestic cotton prices and international cotton prices has decreased, making yarn imports less attractive than in recent seasons. In addition, mill use in Xinjiang has expanded, and the proximity to the higher quality cotton grown in this region offers cost advantages over yarn imports.
In ICRA’s view, as overall yarn demand is expected to remain moderate, spinners may have to sacrifice capacity utilisation or contribution. Hence, their profitability is likely to remain under pressure. Moreover, the spinners continue to face challenges on account of the high cotton prices as well. ICRA said in spite of the expected improvement in cotton sowing in the upcoming kharif season, continued high cotton fibre exports and the uncertain monsoons are expected to keep the prices firm. Besides profitability pressures, high cotton prices are likely to translate into higher working capital requirements of domestic
COTTON REPORT Reserve stocks Chinese auctionsales may well bring down reserve stocks from 12.67 million tons to 8.90 million tons by the end of 2017 and 5 million tons by the end of 2018.This would be considered a manageable level compared to the 13.9 million tons in 201415.
Cotton imports Imports were forecast at 1million ton, compared to a 13-year low of 0.96million tons seen in 2015-16, and 0.98million tons expected in the current 2016-17 season. Chinese cotton consumption is seen robust thanks to steady economic growth, reaching 8 million tons, in 2017-18.
China’s 2017-18 cotton production is forecast to recover moderately, to 5.15 million tons, up 100,000 tons year-on-year, thanks to rising plantings, seen up 100,000 hectares to 3.1million hectares.
Bangladesh’s foreign exchange reserves hit a record $32.56 billion at the end of February, up nearly $840 million on the previous month.The reserves are sufficient to cover about 9 months’ worth of imports and are $4.5 billion higher than a year ago. Steady garment exports and remittances from Bangladeshis working overseas, the key drivers of the country’s more than $200 billion economy, have helped build reserves in recent years.
Pakistan: In order to fulfil the domestic requirements as well as exports, the Pak Govt. has decided to cultivate cotton crop over 3.118 million hectares of land during the current sowing season. The cotton crop production targets for 2017-18 were fixed at 14.4 million bales as against the production targets of 14.1 million bales of last year.
China Lowers VAT for Cotton State Council announced on April 19 to introduce further tax cut for real economy. The 13% value-added tax is removed from the four levels of VAT, which now only includes 17%, 11% and 9%. Effective on July 1, cotton VAT will be reduced from 13% to 11%. This will bring further tax cuts for domestic cotton processors, additional reduction to cotton cost for spinning mills and a lower import cost. Industry now expects potential rise in cotton import in the near future.
The Pakistan Cotton Ginners Association (PCGA) chairman also informed that the cotton sector is facing a number of challenges including low yields, high price of agriculture inputs, higher intensity of pest attacks, irrigation water deficiency, etc.Farmers feel that the next cotton crop size is uncertain as of now, owing to shortage of irrigation water in lower Sindh. Sowing of cotton has begun in Sindh and is expected to start in Punjab from April 15 for avoiding possible pest attacks.
US: The USDA pegged the US April cotton exports at 14 million bales, higher by 800,000 bales from the previous month’s figure. The export is forecasted to be higher amid recent higher export sales figure being noticed for the past 2 months from the US which accounts 40% of world trade. The US ending stock is projected to be slightly lower at 3.70 million bales down by 18% from the previous month.
Data of Pak as on 01.04.2017 (in lakh bales)
COTTON REPORT Year
Turkey: The Turkish textile industry continues to be the one of the leading sectors in the Turkish economy.In 2017-18, cotton sowing area and production are forecast to increase about 15% as a result of good returns and government support. The consumption of cotton in Turkey is expected to be lower than normal this year due to high cotton prices and an increased volume of imported cotton yarn.
Australia: Australian cotton production is now forecast at the second highest level on record, representing a huge increase from the crop of just 2.3 million bales seen in 2014-15 crop year. The USDA has forecast 2017-18 cotton production at 5 million bales, up from 4.6million bales in the previous season, thanks to attractive cotton prices, cheap water and strong overseas demand. Attractive returns on cotton will prompt farmers to continue increasing sowing.
Expert Views: O. A. Cleveland: New crop prices, as discussed the past months, continue to be well supported by old crop prices. The July contract will continue to keep the December 2017 contract in the 73-75 cent area for another month, despite the solid planting progress being made across the northern hemisphere. The market is trying to push lower, but export interest and the fixations continue to allow for potential upward movement in the July. Mr. I. J. Dhuria (Vardhman Mill, India): This year India is expected to import cotton from 3-4 million bales. Indian importers have already 1.3 million bales from USA, 0.7-0.8 million bales from Australia and 0.7-0.8 bales from West Africa.
The 2016/17 world cotton forecasts include higher production and ending stocks. Higher production estimates for China and Brazil are only partly offset by a slightly smaller crop in Australia. Lower expected exports for India, Australia, and Uzbekistan largely offset increases for the United States, Brazil, and Greece. World ending stocks are now projected at 90.9 million bales, about 400,000 bales higher than forecast a month earlier.
ICAC: 1. The ICACâ€™s first forecasts for the season-average Cotlook A Index in 2017-18 will be 73 cents/lb, 5 cents lower than the 78 cents/lb expected for 2016-17, on an August-to-July basis. 2. World cotton production in 2017-18 is projected to rise will rise by 1% to 23.1 million tons, as high prices in 2016-17 encourage farmers to plant cotton.
3. PRODUCTION ESTIMATES (2017-18): INDIA: To rise by 2% to 5.9 million tons CHINA: To rise to 4.8 million tons USA: Unchanged to 3.8 million tons
4. CONSUMPTION ESTIMATES: World Consumption (2016-17): 24.1 million tons World Consumption (2017-18): 24.4 million tons INDIA: To rise by 1% to 5.2 million tons CHINA: To rise by 1% to 7.7 million tons
5. IMPORTS (2016-17): CHINA: To rise by 2% to 0.983 million tons BANGLADESH: To rise by 6% to 1.4 million tons VIETNAM: To rise by 17% to 1.17 million tons
Mr Louis Rose (Rose Commodities): The data released continued to illuminate the tightness of US old crop stocks. The jump in the May contract to a premium over July in the last session suggests that there are takers of ICE certified stock against the May contract.
Reports: World Agricultural Supply and and Estimates (WASDE): The 2016/17 U.S. cotton supply and demand forecasts show higher exports and lower ending stocks relative to last month. Production and domestic mill use are unchanged. The export forecast is raised 800,000 bales to 14 million, based on strong export sales during March. This would be the fourth-largest volume ever for U.S. exports, accounting for nearly 40 % of world trade. Ending stocks are now forecast at 3.7 million bales. The marketing year price received by producers is projected to average between 67 and 69 cents per pound, a reduction of 1 cent at the upper end of the range.
* The price projection for 2016/17 is based on the ending stocks/consumption ratio in the world-less-China in 2014/15 (estimate), 2015/16 (estimate) and in 2016/17 (projection); on the ratio of Chinese net imports to world imports in 2015/16 (estimate) and 2016/17 (projection). The price projection is the mid-point of the 95% confidence interval: 73 cts/lb to 83 cts/lb.
COTTON REPORT ** The price projection for 2016/17 is based on the ending stocks to mill use ratio in the world-less-China in 2015/16 (estimate), 2016/17 (projection) and 2017/18 (projection); on the ratio of Chinese net imports to world imports in 2016/17 (projection) and 2017/18 (projection); and on the price projection of 2016/17. The price projection is the mid-point of the 95% confidence interval: 55 cts/lb to 84 cts/lb.
CAI: COTTON ASSOCIATION OF INDIA
INDIAN COTTON CROP ESTIMATE FOR THE SEASON 2015-16 AND 2016-17
Estimated as on 31st March 2017
1) ICE Cotton: Noted in last update “Short term targets of 79-80 maintained. Above 80 there could be sharp rally to 93 areas in medium term” Short term targets of 79-80 achieved. Sideways action expected, sharp momentum expected only above 80 for 93 areas. Bears can hammer prices lower only if 73 levels breaks. Traders should remain biased to buy dips for short to medium term with stop below 73 weekly closing basis. Key Supports 73 71.81 - 69.32 - 67.70 - 66.47 - 65.22, Key Resistances 79.00 - 80.00 - 83.86 - 88.58 – 91.43 – 93.00.
Mr. MAnish dAGA MD, COttOn guru COttOngurutM@gMAiL.COM
FORM IV 1. Place of publication : 2.
1) ICE Cotton: Noted in last update “Short term targets of 79-80 maintained. Above 80 there could be sharp rally to 93 areas in medium term”
Periodicity of its publication : Monthly
3. Printer’s Name: Nationality: Address:
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Ms. Jigna Shah Indian 189/5263, Sanmati, Pantnagar, Ghatkopar(East), Mumbai- 400075. Maharashtra, INDIA.
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LIVA CRÈME Launched
luxuriously soft fabric from Birla Cellulose
Brand Ambassador Kangana Ranuat walks the ramp LIVA Crème, the new age fabric from the Aditya Birla Group, was launched today by Mr. Kumar Mangalam Birla, Chairman, Aditya Birla Group. Speaking on the occasion Mr. Birla stated, “I recount that when we set out on this journey, our vision was to create value for the entire value chain of viscose based fabrics. I am so pleased to say that the ecosystem of our LAPF partners has resulted in also placing India on the global map. We are now a preferred sourcing destination of viscose based products. This is truly in the spirit of the ‘Make in India’ initiative of our honourable Prime Minister”. “One of the finest examples of customer centricity within the Group has been our VSF business. From being just product focused, the business has moved superbly to “providing solutions” to customers by working seamlessly with the value chain. LIVA’s end-to-end ecosystem of a high quality product, continuous innovation, the LAPF network and aspiration created by communication and brand engagement is a great case study in consumer focus.” added Mr. Birla. Mr. Birla introduced the next innovation - Liva Crème fabric. Embedded in it is the core promise of Liva. Coupled with it are the enhanced features of luxurious fineness and softness. In spawning Liva Crème, he, complimented the LAPF partners who he said have embellished the product with their experience and expertise. The event was launched amidst a lot of fanfare and glitterati with Bollywood actress and Liva Crème brand ambassador Kangana Ranaut walking the ramp. Liva Crème fabric – a new variant of Liva fabric – offers consumers the luxurious soft feel which is fluid and natural. The fashion show had modeled exclusive Spring Summer ’17 collections of Allen Solly, Van Heusen Shoppers Stop, Biba and Pantaloons made in Liva Crème fab-
by Mr. Kumar Mangalam Birla
ric. The Liva tagged garments will be available across premium brands like Allen Solly, Van Heusen, Shoppers Stop, Biba, Pantaloons and Lifestyle among others. Renowned designers namely Nikhil Thampi, Shivan-Naresh and Ka-Sha have created collections for Allen Solly, Van Heusen and Shoppers Stop respectively. Focus markets for Liva Crème will be Delhi, Mumbai and Bangalore. Garments made of LIVA Crème can be identified with the gold and cream coloured tag at the stores. “It is always our endeavor to offer something new to our customer. Liva Crème fabric has all the attributes of Liva fabric while offering the added benefit of luxurious soft feel. The fabric has found tremendous response from women consumers, as per a research conducted in Mumbai and Delhi. The proposition of luxurious softness has been crafted basis their feedback”, said Mr. Dilip Gaur, Business Director -Pulp & Fibre “Overall, the designer associations with leading brands to create exquisite Liva Crème collections, a stunning campaign with Kangana Ranaut and premium point of sale communication will all work towards positioning Liva Crème as a premium brand in the minds of consumers,” added Mr. Rajeev Gopal, CMO – Birla Cellulose. While designers have loved the fabric, each designer has interpreted Liva Crème fabric in their own creative way. “Liva Crème fabric is very light, very airy and breathable. It has a fluid nature with a luxurious soft feel. With Liva Crème it’s very easy to be comfortable and we believe in making clothes which are comfortable. It was really interesting collaboration and was fun to work with the team”, said Karishma Shahani Khan (KaSha) who has used Liva Crème for her exclusive collection at Shoppers Stop. “It was a great experience designing the collection with Liva Crème fabric. It is a nature based fabric that is exquisite. It has an effortless drape and has a unique luxurious feel. We let the fabric give a design direction to us. Liva Crème was a
great starting point to the collection. The fabric blend very effortlessly with the design”, said the designer duo - Shivan and Naresh with respect to their exclusive Liva Crème collection for Van Heusen. “Liva Crème is a nature based fabric which has a great balance of fluidity and luxurious softness. The fabric is fluid and premium. Liva Crème fabric was a complete dream to work with. The whole collaboration came together really well. I got to create some great designs for Allen Solly with Liva Crème. The mirage of all three brands coming together is a dream come true and I hope you all like the collection”, said the enthusiastic Nikhil Thampi for his collection for Allen Solly with Liva Crème. Brands who have partnered with Liva Crème are equally excited about this association. “Our association with Liva Crème team has been very encouraging for our brands Haute Curry and Kashish . The entire Liva Crème team has been an integral part of our product development journey. Our association from R&D to designer collaboration have been very encouraging. A wide range of products has been showcased with detail adaptation. Support and training for our front end Customer Care Associates has been facilitated making this an end-to-end successful project. Garments made with Liva Crème fabrics are also showing good sales conversion. Liva Crème is a promising fabric and we look forward to a long term partnership and innovation from the Liva team”, said Shilpa Gulatee R. (Head Private Brands at ShoppersStop).
About Birla Cellulose Birla Cellulose represents the Pulp and Fiber business of the Aditya Birla Group. Birla Cellulose pioneered the Viscose Staple Fibre (VSF) in India. Birla Cellulose fibers are of 100% natural origin, highly absorbent, have an good fall and feel, and are completely biodegradable. As an extremely versatile and easily bendable fibre, VSF is widely used in apparels, home textiles, dress material, knitted wear and non-woven applications. Birla Celluose commands a major world market share in the Manmade Cellulose fiber domain.
CONNECTING THE FUTURE 9 – 12. 5. 2017, Frankfurt am Main Experience the textile industry of the future. Which innovations are changing this sector? Techtextil combines today’s fascinating textile opportunities with a vision of tomorrow. Come and discover exciting prospects for sales and revenue in the packaging, covering and transportation of goods.
Leading International Trade Fair for Technical Textiles and Nonwovens
LIVA CRÈME Launched
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