April 2018

TEXTILE

VALUE CHAIN

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APRIL 2018

Volume 6

Issue 4

ROCESSING SECTOR Interview : Schoch Reeds India Pvt. Ltd. Market Report : Cotton, Yarn : Domestic/ Export, Surat, Fabric, Cotton Weather Yeild Forecast- May 2018 Sustainable Fibre : Mohair Technical Article : Impact of weave on functional properties of fabric Fashion Focus : Fashion Products Development

By Inspiration Of Indian Folk Art And Craft Designs Product Innovation : Few Fibres/Yarn brands State Policy Comparison : Maharashtra and Andhra Pradesh

Registered with Registrar of Newspapers under | RNI NO: MAHENG/2012/43707 Postal Registration No. MNE/346/2018-20 published on 5th of every month, TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN posted at Mumbai, Patrika Channel Sorting Office,Pantnagar, Ghatkopar-400075, posting date 12/13 of month | Pages 52

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Farm to Fashion, Indian Textile Global Summit is an initiative to provide a platform for the entire textile industry. Farm to Fashion is a threeday event scheduled on 4-5-6 May 2018 encompassing the following:Leading Textile Manufacturers, Traders, Distributors and Suppliers Entire product value chain - Farm to Fashion, viz. Cotton, Spinning, Ginning, Weaving, Knitting, Yarn, Fabric Processing, Digital Printing, Garments & Apparels

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March 2018

CONTENT INTERVIEW 44- Devendra Bamb , Plant Manager & Sales of Schoch Reeds India COVER STORY

APRIL 2018 ISSUE

15- Is Maharashtra Textile Policy Going In Right Direction??? By Avinash Mayekar

EDITORIAL TEAM

17-Processing Sector of India & Industrialist Views

Editor and Publisher Ms. Jigna Shah Chief Editor Mr. Bhavesh Thakar Editorial Assistant Mrs. Namsha Graphic Designer Mr. Anant A. Jogale

40- Vidharbha:The next emeging Textile & Clothing Hub by Dr. Hemant Sonare MARKET REPORT 19- Yarn Report- Basic Textiles Export Recovers In February 20- Yarn Report- Global textile pricing trend in March 21- COTTON SPIN: The China Syndrome: A nuclear meltdown?

22-Cotton Fibre Procurement By India’s CCI Rises Eight-Fold

INDUSTRY

22- Surat Report

Mr. Devchand Chheda City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group) Mr. Manohar Samuel President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries Dr. M. K. Talukdar VP, Kusumgar Corporates Mr. Shailendra Pandey VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon Mr. Ajay Sharma GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group) Mr. Avinash Mayekar Consulting Editor Dr. N.N. Mahapatra President, Colorant Ltd.

23- Cotton Weather (Yield Forecast) May 2018

EDUCATION / RESEARCH

34- VDMA: German Technology meets Indian Textiles and Nonwovens

24- Fabric Market Report By Kirti Shah SUSTAINABLE FIBRE 25- Clothing from Mohair Fibre by N.N. Mahapatra FASHION FOCUS 28- Fashion Products Development by Inspiration of Indian Folk Art And Craft Designs TECHNICAL ARTICLE: 32- Impact Of Weave On Functional Properties Of Fabrics ASSOCIATION NEWS 14- Textile Commissioner Inaugurates SRTEPC Regional Office in Coimbatore

Mr. B.V. Doctor HOD knitting, SASMIRA Dr. Ela Dedhia Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College Dr. Mangesh D. Teli Professor, Dean ICT Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay Principal Scientist and Head MPD Dr. Rajan Nachane Retired Scientist, CIRCOT

27- INNOVATIONS: Few New Innovations In Fibres & Yarn 2018 Exhibition Mumbai SHOW REPORT 35- 9TH ASIAN TEXTILE CONFERENCE (ATEXCON) 35- TAI –Vidarbha 15th International & 73rd All India Textile Conference 38- Comparison of State Textile Policies Between Maharashtra and Andra Pradesh 42 - SHOW CALENDAR

Advertiser Index

Back Page : Raymond

Page7:Sujal Enterprise

Back Inside: DN Associate

Page8:TECHNOTEX

Front Inside: Raysil

Page9: LRT

Page3:FARM TO FASHION

Page10: GENTEX

Page4: Sanjay Plastic

Page 14: Kaisokki

Page5:SGS Innovation

Page 18 : Textest Instrument

Page6: NonWoven Tech Asia 2018

Page 31: Tomsic

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Page44:SITEX Page45:TEXOCAM Page46:SKBS Page47:TECHMECH Page48: VORA Associate & AMITH Garment Page49: N23 TEX MACH INDIA Page50:ITMA ASIA 2018

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EDITORIAL

Increase fibre consumption will accelerate the growth of industry

Indian Textile & Apparel industry aiming for USD 300 Million mark by 2025 considering export and domestic market sales. The increase of the world fibre market consumption was 3.2% up to 104.8 million tons in 2017 end according to preliminary calculation. Oil-based synthetic fibres had the biggest share with 64.2%, Cellulosic and protein-based fibres consist of cotton share around 24.1%, wood-based cellulose fibres share around 6.2%, other natural fibres are around 4.4% and wool is around 1.1%. According to this statistic, Cotton & synthetic fibre dominate the world for around 88%. CAGR for Synthetic fibre is 3-4 %, Cotton is 1-2%, Cellulosic fibre is 5-6 %. Textile consumption in Industrial / Developed countries is 28-31Kg / capita, Developing countries 7.9-12 kg/ capita. Approximate Market consumption by 3 regions are AMEA (Asia, Middle East, Africa) is 37%, Europe & USA: 36% , ROW : 27%

Fibre consumed in apparel, home textile, technical textile, intimate apparel, active wear, etc. trend to high-tech clothing and comfort leading to more use of special polyester and wood based fibres. Fibre brands are now connecting directly with apparel brands, retailers and enthusing consumer by B2C Advertising campaign.

Today Consumers can associate themselves with apparel brands but not fibre brands. New revolution is on the way, where dynamics of textile industry will change soon because today’s consumers are more aware and conscious due to faster connectivity through social media and internet. Today’s youth are also environment / ecology conscious so they demand sustainable products in their all walks of life.

Textile has a great future in south Asian market due to good infrastructure for manufacturing process, expertise human skill, more population more market opportunity and cost advantage over the world due to developing country.

We will start our new financial year with a positive and long term vision. Wish you Happy and Productive 20182019...!

Ms. Jigna Shah

Editor and Publisher

All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate information.

The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith.

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April 2018

ASSOCIATION NEWS

Textile Commissioner Inaugurates SRTEPC Regional Office in Coimbatore Dr. Kavita Gupta, IAS, Textile Commissioner inaugurated the new Regional Office of The Synthetic & Rayon Textiles Export Promotion Council (SRTEPC) in the premises of Southern India Mills’ Association (SIMA) in Coimbatore on 16th March 2018. Speaking at the inauguration, Dr. Kavita Gupta said that when the production of textile and clothing products doubles in 2025 in value terms, the fibrerequirement should also increase tremendously.

Dr. Gupta further stated that the domestic textile and clothing industry market is about US$ 110 billion and exports are about US$ 40 billion.

She informed that the textile Ministry has set a target of US$300 billion by the year 2025.

She remarked that Cotton and Manmade Fibresblends are coming a in a big way and so the scenario is not cotton vs Manmade sectors, but both the sectors are complementary to each other and should go hand in hand.

Speaking on the Rebate of State Levies she said that the Ministry has got further allocation of about Rs. 900 crore and the same will be released soon. She also said that the Ministry

April 2018

is also pursuing with the Government on the additional funds required for the Scheme.

She stated that the office of the Textile Commissioner has given proposals related to Technology Mission on cotton and Technical textiles to the Textile Ministry.

A Seminar on “Emerging Scope for Man-made fibre textiles –Growth & Future Sustainability” was also held on the occasion. Shri Sri Narain Aggarwal, Chairman, SRTEPC; Shri P. Nataraj, Chairman, The Southern India Mills’ Associaiton (SIMA); ShriRonak Rughani, Vice Chairman, SRTEPC; Shri Anil Rajvanshi, Convenor and Immediate past Chairman, SRTEPC; members of the Committee of Administration of the Council, ShriSelvraj, Secretary General, SIMA, Shri S. Balaraju, Executive Director of SRTEPC and media, etc. were present on the occasion.

The Chairman SRTEPC in his address on SRTEPC Activities, Services and Initiatives – its role in Export Promotion and the scope for Indian man-made fibre textiles said that the Indian MMF textile industry has massive capacities and there is scope for growth. The sector has vertically integrated and exports to a

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large number of countries. He further stated that the MMF textiles Export target for the current fiscal year isUS$ 7.5 billion.

Shri P. Natraj, Chairman, The Southern india Mills’ Association said that the joint efforts of Grasim, Reliance and SIMA in value addition of MMF had become a success model as larger number of weavers and leading textile had got into viscose/polyester/cotton blends. He said that at least 5 million spindles in South India and equal value in downstream sectors can be converted into synthetic.

ShriJaigopal, Managing Director of M/s Madura Coats Pvt. Ltd. has given a presentation on ‘Emerging Trends in the Man-Made Fibre Textiles Trade’ and urged the participants to go for innovations and produce Smart and Value-addedtextile items with ManMade Fibres.

Dr. Jayaraman, Assistant Director and Head of the Spinning, SITRA, Coimbatore gave a detailed presentation on ‘Perspective of the increasing significance of Man-Made Fibre Textiles’ and suggested the industry to go for MMF textiles in view of its properties, price fluctuations in cotton fibreetc,. and offered their services in providing technology, training, testing etc,

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April 2018

COVER STORY

Is Maharashtra Textile Policy Going In Right Direction???

Timing of Maharashtra textile policy will be the game changer for the textile industry today.It is going to be the tide shifting event that will further boost the Industrial investments in Maharashtra. It will help overcome all the setbacks faced due to recent financial slow down. The textile industrial stalwarts were on a still mode avoiding any new investments in this sector post GST announcements thus an extra push in the form of policy was needed for the industry. This Maharashtra textile policy therefore kicks in exactly at the right time acting as abooster dosefor the industry to take a chance & expand their business in multifold.

On analyzing the table 1.1 providing details of Maharashtra policy we will notice that the policy has been perfectly laid out to overcome the current shortcomings faced by the textile industry of Maharashtra. The policy ensures providing support in the form of subsidy to the concerned & less developed sectors of textile. The policy has taken care of the entire value chain. It provides 25% capital subsidy to ginning, spinning & weaving due to the fact that these sectors are already well established in the state whereas a capital subsidy of 40% to knitting, processing, yarn dyeing, garmenting & technical textiles to create value added products currently not much developed in the state.

The policy further take care of the least developed textile regions of the state mapped into 3 zones which are Vidarbha, Marathwada & North Maharashtra by providing additional subsidy. So if at all an entrepreneur is putting up a unit in the three zones identified above they will get an additional subsidy of 10% to 20% depending on their segment in addition to the percentage of subsidy that is already mapped for each segment as stated above. So ginning, spinning, weaving will get additional 10% subsidy i.e. total 35% in these three zones whereas knitting, processing, yarn dyeing, garmenting & technical textiles will get additional 20% subsidy i.e. total 60% capital subsidy to the units established in these areas. This policy of government will thus ensureemployment generation to the local public of the region. Moreover the abundant availability of land in these regions will avoid overcrowding of existing textile zones.

An important & unique feature policy is that there is no upper capital limit to the amount of subsidy that will be sanctioned thereby giving the textile entrepreneurs a free hand to invest into larger projects as well. Despite the favorable government policy the other issue for textile investment in Maharashtra is the high power cost of the state compared to other states.This adds to the burden of textile industry specifically as power is the2ndmajor cost factor in textile industry. The policy has addressed this is-

April 2018

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sue by offering powersubsidy of Rs. 2/KWHfor the textile units established in the state that will be using more than 107HP. The benefits offered by the Maharashtra government for the textile industry is a great initiative as the state is a predominately cotton growing region. This policy will thus benefit both the cotton growers giving good value to their yield by means of forward linkage & to the industry by ensuring easy availability of raw materials. Seeing at the overall structure of the policy there is a great opportunity for entrepreneurs to venture into textile sectors.

Bringing textile policy is one step towards boosting the industry but for successful running of the textile units there is a greater need to have supportive infrastructure.

The state government understanding this necessity has moved one step ahead and is working towards developing world class infrastructure. The Maharashtra industrial development corporation has already provided the necessary infrastructure in industrial belts like Kolhapur, Amravati to name a few &many new infrastructure development projects are lined up in coming future. This supportive infrastructure is not in the form of only highway connectivity to major cities & ports but is also designing& setting up common effluenttreatment plants (CETP)along with basic utilities needed for the industry. During recent magnetic Maharashtra they have displayed their model of smart infrastructure development which would take care of the effluent treatment, requirement of water, sanitation & excellent road networking.

For providing readily available CETP, testing facilities, electricity, roads, water etc. MIDC will set up Integrated Textile Hubs / Parks at Amravati, Aurangabad, Beed, Buldhana, Jalna, Jalgaon, Nanded, Parbhani, Yavatmal and Wardha.

At least 100 ha land at each of these mega integrated textile hubs will be developed as per the textile policy 201822. The promising factor from the policy is that the Maharashtra textile policy will also give special incentives to textile projects implementing environment friendly solar and wind energy projects.

The other major challenge for the Maharashtra government while serving to the textile industry will be ensuring & promising the necessity like water, power consistently for a longer duration. The government however has ensured that current MIDC centers are well equipped with technologies to calculate current water capacities & total water load that can be provided by them. The capacities installed in common effluents are also having capability to treat the effluent to a certain predetermined level.

Thus there will not be any overloading leading to shortages & downfall of the industry in future.

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COVER STORY Conclusion: Such solid policy framework & supportive infrastructure has set the platform for world class textile industry to be setup in Maharashtra. Also the digital platforms of government will ensure that the subsidy will reach the industrialist in the stipulated time frames directly in their secured bank account. All though this textile policy has taken some months to be launched after the lapse of policy in March 2017, the policy is been outlined with crisp objectives ensuring the development in entire value chain of textile. Moreover this span has helped the industry to

carry out the research on new untapped opportunities available in textile especially in technical textile making them ready for investments to incash the maximum benefits on policy launch which is quite relevant to me in my recent interactions with textile owners. So the policy is set, the market is ready, its only time now for entrepreneur to involve the best in class team & develop their textile capacities to cater to the world thereby helping the country compete & excel in global markets. With such benefits & support the sky is limit & let us en-cash the maximum to reap higher profits.

Type of Tex le

Subsidy to units in the General category Subsidy to units in the SC /ST/ Minority category Addi onal subsidy for produc on of Yarn, fabric and other products from non-conven onal yarn Addi onal Capital subsidy Addi onal subsidy for units having Forward/Backward Integra on

Processing (yarn, fabric, prin ng), Technical tex le Kni ng, Hosiery and Garmen ng * 40%

Composite Unit**

Spinning , Ginning, Pressing

Moderni za on of powerlo oms

New Powerlooms based on latest technology, Weaving, Preparatory etc

35%

25%

25%

25%

45%

40%

30%

30%

30%

10%

10%

10%

-

-

For tex le projects in the Vidarbha, Marathwada and North Maharashtra region 20% 10% 10% 10% 10% 5%

Addi onal subsidy for units set up in a taluka not having any exis ng Spinning mills

-

Addi onal subsidy for new composite unit set up in a taluka not having any Co- Opera ve or Private spinning mill

-

-

5%

-

-

5%

-

-

-

-

5%

-

5%

All values are % of eligible amount Source: GR Maharashtra textile policy *Construction cost of ETP / CETP / ZLD in the processing projects will be eligible for capital subsidy. ** Composite Unit: If particulars mentioned in Column 2 are not included then 35% for other processes andif particulars mentioned in Column 2 are included then 40% for those specific processes

Avinash Mayekar

MD and CEO Suvin Advisors Pvt. Ltd.

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April 2018

COVER STORY

Processing Sector of India Processing is the last value chain segment before the garment stitched. Grey fabric have been processed with dyes, color, prints, washes, etc to make appealing to garment manufacturer for a final garment piece. Textile Ministry schemes till now focused on Spinning due to abundance of cotton in India which needs to be converted to yarn, series of TUFS planned & offered for the benefits to spinning sector. Weaving being fragmented and most unorganized sector, only organized mills or composite mills have taken advantage of TUFS. Processing being highly water intensive and with lot of environmental compliances, eco / sustainable issues, this sector needs high investment for zero discharge effluent treatment plants.

In recent policy, focus can be seen from different states to sustainable and green technology. A little brief about processing sector scheme is as follows: Integrated Processing Development Scheme (IPDS) (IPDS) which provides assistance to textile processing clusters for setting up Common Effluent Treatment Plants (CETP) with environment compliant effluent treatment technology wherein 7 projects have been sanctioned in the last two years with an assistance of INR 419 crore, covering 3000 SME units.

Amended Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (ATUFS): A total of 182 new projects have been approved under Amended Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (ATUFS) with projected investment of Rs. 468.87 crores and involving a subsidy of Rs. 37.79 crores during the month.

State Textile Policy 2018-23 Government of Maharashtra Projects for which the long term loan has been approved for machinery under the centrally sponsored TUFS scheme from the date of issuance of this Government Resolution or thereafter till 31 March 2023.

Processing (Pre& Post) • The existing State scheme of 25% of project cost or Rs. 37.5 crore whichever is lower for projects, approved under centrally sponsored IPDS scheme (Government Resolution dated 10/02/2015) will be continued.

• Capital subsidy will be given for machinery required for ZLD / ETP / CETP in the processing projects.

• Processing parks including CETP will set in coastal areas

by MIDC. • Land for hard waste disposal will be provided in respective districts.

• Processing parks including ZLD / ETP / CETP will set on priority by the MIDC at Ichalkaranji, Malegaon and Bhiwandi.

• Processing projects having ZLD / ETP / CETP will be provided with electricity at concessional rates, since the costs

April 2018

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of operating the ZLD / ETP / CETP projects and the hard waste disposal are very high.

• Financial assistance will be provided to institutes such as SASMIRA and IIT to set up water free / effluent free dyeing / processing projects.

• Water will be reserved for processing plants, since these plants require large volume of water.

We have taken some views from Industry contributors about the policy and processing sector. Kindly find below views from corporate / Organized as well as SME’s / Un-organized sector: Mr.Rajendra Sidhpuria, Senior Manager in Processing at Birla Century Birla Century is dealing with cotton wet processing. Textile Policy is much beneficial for entrepreneur. Govt. initiated to uplift the processing units by helping and supporting them. Our one of the plants is set with TUFS scheme almost 20 years back. Corporate units take full utilization of the policy. Processing sector has the bright future in India because we are adapting and implementing new technology. Birla Century achieves the gold certification in India as well as internationally. Birla Century is the first company to have Green Tag which was first approved by US. P.E. Eshwar Director, SSM Processing Mills Ltd. Processing Sector is in big dilemma due to GST. Input credits not been accumulated, due to which around 2 crore credit is pending till date from GST Department. This is a very big set-back.

Environment system should be centralized in all parts of India like it’s done in south, especially in Tamil Nadu. In south, we are following Zero Liquid Discharge Policy.

In NCR, pollution policy is far different one to which we follow. Pollution policy differs from state to state. And south produces quality oriented products.

Textile Policy is good but not getting good incentive to exporting fabrics to Bangladesh & Srilanka, While other neighboring countries getting benefits of incentive from their country policy. To earn more foreign exchange in our country, we need to have better incentives of our policy. Importers don’t have much impact after introduction of GST.

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COVER STORY Mr.Jayesh Desai, Proprietor of Raj Industries TUFS plays a vital role in textile industry and but timely refunds is a big issue. Government should make everything online and secure. As summer arrives water becomes a major problem in Gujarat & proper RO System must be implemented by Government. Awareness among consumer is improving for maintaining ecological balance. Manufacturers are adopting branded machines with green tag label. We expect initiative by Ministry to appreciate & uplift new manufacturers to promote their brand.

Mr. Sushil Verma, MD of Kuster Calico After going through the Maharashtra Textile Policy I am of the opinion that this is good step by the government to promote the Textile Industry which is 2nd largest employment generator. The capital equipment subsidy of 20 to 30% is really going to give good boost for setting up new industry in the state and this would be an add-on to the 10% TUFS subsidy which is available from central government.

The 30% subsidy in some geographical areas is going to be the highest subsidy announced by any state government so far. Government should also ensure proper implementation of the scheme and provide good infrastructure for setting up industry as most of the Textile Zones will come in remote areas.

Mr Rajnikant Bachkaniwala, MD Palod Himson Machines Pvt Ltd. Processing sector lack modernisation & decentralised in surat; going through the bad phase after demonetization & GST. Market is weak. Organised processing sector in other parts of the country is doing well.

Government’s TUFS scheme does not have much effect in processing sector because it has many complications like its process and procedure which is time consuming. Government doesn’t put much effort in processing sector.

Mr. Dhaval Gandhi from Bianco Textile said that processing sector requires quality water which is free from hardness. Industry doesn’t required tanker water. Government should support to get finance @ 3% net interest for Zero Discharge Effluent Treatment Plan.

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April 2018

YARN REPORT

Basic Textiles Export Recovers In February Cotton export recovers as domestic prices recede Falling domestic prices in prompted cotton exports to surge in February with shipment of 10.6 lakh bales (170 kg each) as against 7.3 lakh bales exported a year ago.

The increase in February is largely due to fall in prices and higher exports to Bangladesh. Also, some shipment that were held back in January for no explicit reason, were shipped out this month. Thus, during the first five months of 2017-18 cotton marketing year, cotton exports aggregated 44.1 lakh bales as against 43.3 lakh bales in the corresponding months of previous marketing year.

The export (FOB) price realization averaged INR 117 a kg or US cents 84.42 per pound in February as against the Cotlook Index ‘A’ at 88.6 per pound and spot Shankar-6 at US cents 79.4 per pound. Spot prices have declined from an average of US cents 82.7 in January to below US cents 80 per pound mark, large due to higher arrivals and the peak marketing season coming to close.

Over the past 12 months, domestic prices remained above US cents 80 per pound levels, touching a high of US cents 85 per pound in April 2017. They had hovered below US cents 80 in the first three months of the current marketing season, but a crop loss report in Maharashtra and Gujarat pushed them back to above US cents 80 in January.

Spun yarn and Fabric export jumps in February Spun yarn export shipment jumped 30% In February, while values in US$ term surged 39%. Totaled volume shipped was 105 million kg during the month, worth US$ 330 million. Unit value realization averaged US$ 3.13 per kg, up US cents 5 from previous month, and US cents 21 up compared to last year. The surge is largely due to carry over of January volumes into February due to tax anomalies.

Meanwhile, the INR appreciated from INR 67.6 to INR 63 this February. Yarn exports to the largest buyer China,

April 2018

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continued to con-tract both in terms of volume and value (2% and 4% YoY) during February. It still accounted for 20% of all yarn shipped during the month.

Cotton yarn export at 86 million kg worth US$ 275 million (INR 1,735 crore) was up 40% in February as 70 countries imported cotton yarn at an average price of US$ 3.18 a kg, US cents 2 more than previous month and up US cents 19 from last year.

China reduced its import of cotton yarn from India by 1.2% in volume but up 1.5 in value terms and was top importer during the month. It was followed by Bangladesh with volume and value both more than doubling over the year. Portugal and South Korea were the other major importers, also increasing their imports from India. Pakistan was the fifth largest destination but has been reducing its import in recent months. 11 countries did not import any cotton yarn from India as they did last February, but were re-placed by seven other countries which imported yarn worth US$ 0.50 million.

Croatia, Syria, Slovenia, Paraguay, and Mexico were among the fastest importers of cotton yarn in February while Bahrain, Canada and Brazil significantly reduced their import compared to last year.

100% man-made fibre yarns exports fell in volume and value in February. MMF yarn exports comprised 3 million kg of polyester yarn, 1.8 million kg of viscose yarn and 0.9 million kg of acrylic yarn. Polyester yarn exports rose 11 in value while viscose yarn exports value increased 13% during the month. Acrylic yarn exports were down 54%.

Polyester spun yarns were exported to 42 countries at average unit price of US$ 2.44 a kg. Turkey was the largest importer of polyester yarn, followed by Egypt and Brazil.

Viscose yarn worth US$ 6.2 million or INR 39 crore was

exported in February at an average price of US$ 3.44 per kg. Bangladesh sprang as the top importer worth US$ 1.5 million, followed by Belgium and Iran.

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YARN REPORT Blended spun yarns worth US$ 39 million were exported in February, up 55% YoY in value terms. During the month, 6.9 million kg of PC yarns was exported worth US$ 19 million while 4 million kg of PV yarns were ex-ported worth US$ 12 million.

Egypt, Bangladesh and Brazil were the largest importers of PC yarn from India while Turkey was the only major importer of PV yarns from India followed distantly by Iran.

Woven fabric shipment (exports) increased in February as exporters extended some shipment after a sharp fall in January. It was, however, still lower than the levels two years ago. While spun yarn exports were also up during the month, the rise in fabric export implies that the overall textile sector has leveled the previous month’s fall.

Volumes rose 12% to 354 million sq mtrs (YoY) worth US$ 282 million or INR 1,774 crore. Thus, cumulative export in the first 11 months of 2017-18, was 3,938 million sq mtr, down 0.7% com-pared with same period a year ago. In terms of value, woven fabric export was worth US$ 3,086

million or INR 19,585 crore.

During the month, 145 countries imported woven fabrics from India, topped by Bangladesh and followed by Sri Lanka and UAE. The three together accounted for 35% of total woven fabric shipped during the month. During the month only eight countries did not import any fabric as last year. However, they were replaced by 19 other countries which imported fabric worth US$ 0.9 million this February.

Nepal, Paraguay and were the fastest growing large markets for woven fabrics, and accounted for over 1% of total export value in February.

Source: Textile Beacon Global Info Services

Nitin Madkaikar

Textile Beacon

Global textile pricing trend in March Cotton Global cotton markets were largely driven by multiple factors in early March as the commodity captured attention of speculative funds following USDA’s bullish to neutral reports. Prices returned to the previous month’s highs to a new high, signaling higher prices. However, futures were under pressure in the second half of March in the absence of any fundamental news while rumors made rounds with respect to lost markets due to the imposition of US tariffs as the month was closing. US May futures ended up US cents 3.11 averaging US cents 82.67 a pound on the ICE while the new crop December contract edged down US cent 0.20 at US cents 78.10 a pound.

ton planting is forecast to fall 12% in 2018-19 crop year as pink bollworm infestation slashed farmers’ incomes and prompted them to shift to other crops.

Cotton Yarn Cotton yarn markets in China were under upward correction as the close of the month, although participants were cautious overall. Offers for some best-sell products picked up slightly, mainly for high-quality and high-count yarns,

Cotlook A index, the global spot benchmark gained US cents 3.59 on the month at US cents 92.19 per pound, despite moderating in third and fourth week.

In China, reserve auction was active but could not find much demand as compared to previous seasons. Nevertheless, the first two weeks indicated an average sale of about 100,000 bales. Chinese were complaining that goods offered at auction were of poor quality and had petitioned the government to allow more import. The China Cotton Index edged down 37 Yuan to 15,656 per ton (US cents 112 a pound).

In India, cotton prices movement were mixed in March with some specs declining and some gaining. Benchmark, Shankar-6 was traded at an average of INR 40,925 per candy, up INR 750 on the month while V797 was INR 2,200 cheaper at INR 27,400 per candy. Reportedly, cot-

20

while the prices of conventional products remained unchanged. Yarn prices increased with 32s averaging 23.08 Yuan a kg (US$ 3.65 a kg, up US cents 3) and 40s gained at 24.05 Yuan a kg (US$ 3.80 a kg, up US cents 3) in Shengze.

In India, cotton yarn prices moderated in line with the cotton prices in past month. 30s combed cotton yarn for knitting fell to INR 197.50 a kg (US$ 3.04 a kg, down US cents 6) in Ludhiana while export offers were down US cents 4 at US$ 3.30 a kg.

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April 2018

YARN REPORT Polyester PSF prices fell sharply in China while they were hiked in

kg). Polyester spun yarn offers moved down in China, up in Pakistan and India during March. In China, 32s polyester yarn offers were down US cents 2 at US$ 2.17 a kg while 60s were up US cents 5 at US$ 2.53 a kg. 21s were US cents 4 at US$ 2.01 a kg. In India, polyester yarn prices were slightly down with 30s knit yarn prices at INR 132 a kg (US$ $ 2.03 a kg, down US cents 2) in Ludhiana market.

Polyester intermediates

Pakistan seeing the currency weaken sharply which made imports costlier. PSF market in Shandong and Hebei moderated with sidelined stance while in Fujian, prices moved sideways. In India, PSF prices were raised for the month.

In Jiangsu and Zhejiang, offers for 1.4D direct-melt PSF moderated US cents 3 to US$ 1.39-1.42 a kg, while the same in Fujian and Shandong fell to US$ 1.38-1.45 a kg.

In India, PSF prices were raised with 1.2D at INR 96.75 a kg or US$ 1.49 a kg and 1.4-2D at INR 98 a kg (US$ 1.50 a

PTA markets in Asia were in weak fluctuation, with price falling consecutively in all the weeks. Upstream, paraxylene markets changed little upwards but PTA prices showed slight volatility but slightly weak. PTA Asian markers moderated US$ 1.75 on the month with CFR China at US$ 769-771 per ton while offer from Taiwan/Korea were down at US$ 785-801 per ton.

MEG prices, were on a downtrend but the fall was halted in the last week as demand improved with gradual increase in polyester production though an upward drive was limited. Inventories in east China were still 1% up from levels seen in late February decreased at 672 kilo ton. MEG spot prices declined US$ 118 on the month with CFR China at US$ 892-897 per ton and CFR South East Asia at US$ 907-912 per ton.

COTTON SPIN: The China Syndrome: A nuclear meltdown?

Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Economist John Robinson takes a look at cotton and tariff threats.

Back when I was in high school there was a movie called “The China Syndrome,” about a nuclear meltdown. A few days ago, on April 4, the real country of China did something that started off looking like a nuclear meltdown of U.S. stock and agricultural commodity markets.

With a few more days of market reaction under our belts, it may not turn out to be so bad.

What China did was include cotton and soyabeans on a list of 106 U.S. export commodities on which they are threatening to impose 25 percent tariffs. This is in addition to 128 other U.S. export products previously listed by China.

These announcements have been unveiled in apparent tit-for-tat reaction to U.S. government announcements of tariffs on Chinese products imported into the U.S. China’s April 4 announcement that included U.S. cotton was initially met by a 3-cent plunge in the overnight trading of nearby ICE cotton futures contracts, which only recovered a little bit in that session, settling down over 2 cents. The U.S. stock market similarly was poised to open down 500 points, but ended up rallying 700 points to close up 230 points. In subsequent days the old crop ICE futures contracts rose back above 82 cents.

old age that markets hate uncertainty. Waking up to a dramatic announcement about potentially changing fundamentals is a shock, so it wasn’t surprising to see a sharp drop in stock and commodity futures markets.

But, what about the actual risk to fundamentals? On the face of it, a 25 percent Chinese tariff on U.S. cotton imports would make U.S. cotton relatively more expensive than its competitors. I consider our relevant competitors to be suppliers of high quality, machine harvested cotton like Australia and Brazil.

So, the U.S. could lose market share to China. Does that imply an overall reduction in U.S. exports? The answer is — surprise! — a bit complicated.

If it really happens, the imposition of a tariff might result in some short-term disruption of the export market. New export sales of U.S. cotton to China might drop off. Existing sales to China might be cancelled. But, after some adjustment, the overall effects may not be as bad.

RESHUFFLING OF EXPORTS

MARKETS HATE UNCERTAINTY

First, if Australia and Brazil increase their exports to China, that might create a gap that the U.S. could fill in other countries that were expecting to import Australian or Brazilian cotton. This suggests that the effect of bilateral tariffs may simply be a reshuffling of cotton exports, not a reduction.

Why all this volatility? The first explanation involves the

There is a recent precedent for this kind of reshuffling in

April 2018

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COTTON REPORT the world cotton supply chain. After 2011, the Chinese disrupted their own domestic cotton industry with highpriced purchases of subsequently unavailable cotton for their reserve buildup. Chinese textile mills were having difficulty sourcing affordable cotton supplies.

These fund managers, like other traders on Wall Street, may be assuming that all the tit-for-tat announcements are just posturing for the eventual negotiation between the U.S. and China on larger trade issues. Let us hope that is the case.

The result was a shift to increasing cotton imports by Vietnam, Indonesia, Pakistan, and other countries, which then exported duty-free cotton yarn to China. The same kind of pattern shift could keep U.S. exports from ultimately declining in the wake of a bilateral Chinese tariff on U.S. cotton imports.

GEOPOLITICS AND ECONOMICS

Because U.S. cotton futures did not crash, I am assuming that the Chinese announcement of possible tariffs has not spooked the hedge fund longs who still own a lot of ICE cotton futures.

These kinds of risks are something that the U.S. cotton industry has to live with, because it is part of a global market, which includes geopolitics as much as economics.

The unpredictability of such things highlights the fact that nobody ultimately knows which way cotton prices will go. The only thing you can know for sure is whether a forward contract or a hedge on today’s futures price will be a profitable — or at least survivable — price floor.

Cotton Fibre Procurement By India’s CCI Rises Eight-Fold Higher price volatility resulted in state-owned Cotton Corporation of India (CCI) recording an eight-fold rise in fibre procurement fiscal 2017-18. It procured 1.2 million bales (of 170 kg each) of cotton fibre under minimum support price (MSP) and commercial operations in the last fiscal compared to 150,000 bales in 2016-17. A third of the total was MSP buying.

The cotton season is coming to an end and CCI plans to buy another 200,000 bales before that, according to a report in a top Indian business daily.

Private procurers had started matching the post-January price offers by CCI, resulting in the level staying high. The state body then auctions the natural fibre for textile mills at the market price. The price began recovering since January, to trade above the MSP. CCI estimates the output at 36.2 million bales for the coming year, 0.5 million less from its last month’s estimate of 36.7 million. Total output for 2016-17 is estimated at 33.73 million bales. (DS)

SURAT REPORT The Govt. is trying to reduce silk imports: Ajay Tamta Union minister of state for textiles Ajay Tamta said the central government is keen for silk fabrics production at domestic level and increase exports. The opportunities in natural fibre in the form of silk are huge in the north eastern states. The focus is on research and development in sericulture in order to reduce dependence of natural silk imports.

Tamta was in the city to attend a seminar organized by the Southern Gujarat Chamber of Commerce and Industry (SGCCI) and the Global Fabric Resource and Research Centre (GFRRC) on ‘future opportunities in textile sector’.

He said thet he is visiting textile clusters across the country to study the market and to encourage research and development in developing new qualities and products to increase silk fabrics exports.

Tamta said GST is new to this country and thus there would be some difficulties. The government has formed a committee to address issues relating to GST. We are trying to resolve technical issues in the GST portal and filing of returns. To enhance new high speed machinery in the industry, the govt. is trying to reduce Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS) formality.

22

GST impact : Yarn-Fabrics dealers tighten the payment system Post GST(Goods and Service Tax), the payment system in the textile business chain in the city is become better than pre-GST period. Most of the yarn dealers and fabrics traders have set payment terms where those paying within seven days of goods delivery are given one per cent discount on the total bill amount, whereas there are interest penalties of up to 18 per cent on late payments.

Polyester yarn trader Rakesh Shah said, GST has forced a new payment system which is good for a healthy business environment. The new taxation system has helped us to introduce new payment norms as well. Before GST, the payment system across the business chain was irregular.

Generally, we were giving payment credits for 30 and 60 days. We would not dare ask for payment from weavers, even if they fail to pay on the promised date. But now after new tax system, weavers pay us cheque against yarn delivery. For those paying in cash, we pay one per cent discount on total bill. For those not paying on time, we impose 18 per cent interest on late payments. Earlier, anyone was doing business with everyone. There were many case of defaults. Now you can’t do business with those www.textilevaluechain.com

April 2018

SURAT REPORT who are not registered under GST. Now, the business is restricted to those who are GST registered players. Either the trader pays in cash or cheque. There is no space for credit in business now.

Adverse impact on textile exports due to pending GST refunds Several textile, chemical exporters of south Gujarat are eagerly waiting for Integrated Goods and Services Tax (IGST) refunds. The IGST refunds to the tune of Rs 500 crore are pending for processing. Non-processing of refunds has lead to working capital crunch among exporters and in turn, impacting their order books. Textile exporters are losing on business triggering a drop in exports due to higher cost of operations and liquidity crunch. Textile exports from the region have seen a drop of over 5 per cent for the past few months owning to limited cash flow and increased cost of operations.

The Finished Fabrics Exporter Sanjeev Kapoor said, Fund flow is a big challenge for exporters as they have not received refunds under Goods and Services Tax since past ten months. Pending refunds is an issue that continues to have adverse impact on the industry, as it blocks working capital. Small traders are forced to seek bank loans to meet capital needs. Fresh export orders are not being singed up from foreign destinations. Textile export scenario looks bleak and unlikely to bounce back in coming months.

Industry Sources said, there are several issues including discrepancies in invoice and errors in the returns that had

been filed so far which are leading to non-processing of refunds. The government has initiated the refund for exporters but still the process is slow.

Study on MMF to enhance production and consumption The Synthetic and Rayon Export Promotion Council (SRTEPC) will prepare a study reports on Man-Made Fibre (MMF). The study will give a road map to identify gaps and suggest measures. It is going to be a benchmark study in shaping the MMF textile segment in India.

The ministry of textile and the textile commissioner’s office have launched a study to promote growth of manmade fibre (MMF) textile in India and to identify the gaps and suggest measures during the mega event ‘Textile in Karnataka’ last month. The study will be to understand the successful strategies of the countries such as China, Indonesia, Vietnam, Bangladesh and Cambodia in order to enhance production and consumption of MMF textiles.

India is the second largest world producer of polyester and viscose, but when it comes to export in MMF textile, India is ranked 6th in the world. Despite having enormous potential, strong fundamentals and raw material base, the MMF textile exports from india as higher as other Asian countries. The study reports will suggest measures and innovative ideas to cater to the consumer requirements and improve competitiveness of Indian MMF textile both in domestic and export markets and help India emerge as the leading country in MMF textile production and exports.

Cotton Weather (Yield Forecast) May 2018

By Mr. Bhupendra Dholakia Here are the possible effects of weather effects in different states, keeping in mind the dynamic processes of solar systems, elaborate sentences, astronomical matters, and ancient history of seasonality.)

In the first week of May, During the 1st to 3rd, there is a possibility of mild pressure of air in the ocean. Its influence remains special in the states of Maharashtra, South Gujarat, East Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh and South Rajasthan. Its negative effect can be seen in some extent. The effect of which is seen in cotton yield.

There is a possibility of rain on the south-east coast of India between May 4 and 8. Under its influence, there is likely to be a short hail like rain in Gujarat and many part of Maharashtra. Saurashtra and Central Gujarat are experiencing cloud-like conditions. For the maintenance of cotton stock, it is advisable to make special efforts.

During 9 to 13 May, rain-fed weather conditions prevailed in some parts of Gujarat, Maharashtra and Madhya Pradesh.

There is a possibility of rain somewhere. Preservation measures are essential in gaining - pressing units.

April 2018

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During the period between 14th and 15th May (Vaade Chaudas-Amas), there is an increase in the proportion of the heatwave in the middle part of the North Gujarat and the northern parts of Maharashtra. Cotton stock must be taken care of.

The heat rises between 16 and 18 May. Air and wind and thunderstorms will increase. A rainy atmosphere appears in the Andaman Sea and the South Bay. The monsoon activity goes forward. Need to take care in the cotton market.

May 19 to 22 May be seen in the cloud of pumpkin. GujaratSaurashtra- The climate of Kutch and Maharashtra is like a tropical rain. Its adverse effect is seen in agriculture.

May 23 to 26 have more heat in Northen part of India. The Ganga & Jamna River Plateau will be hotter. Gujarat- Saurashtra- Kutch- Madhya Pradesh- Heat increased in Rajasthan and Maharashtra. Vertical breed of Cotton will get push in the market.

From May 25 to June 8, the sun will remain in Rohini constellation. There will be rain sprinkle in many places from 27th to 30th May. Good Monsoon projections. There is likely to be good impact on cotton and other commodities.

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FABRIC MARKET REPORT

By Kirti Shah, Textile World Cotton Yarn Rates fluctuating frequently and powerloom gross rates increased by Rs.1. Sulzer looms produced fabric have no change in rates as supply is more and demand is less. In Bhiwandi, 70% looms have been shut down due to no demand. Hence processing houses are not running in its full capacity.

A South Grey fabric has been processed in Tarapur, Umargaon &Ambernath but no dispatch from the pro-

cessing house due to no truck available for loading the furnish fabric. Trucks were standing by Ahmedabad for more than 10 days due to financial crises.

After GST; NCR, Mumbai, Ahmedabad and Surat affected most, payments from this is still pending. So, business slowed down without money.

Earlier in shirting 40/180/72 yarn dyed checks are in demand, but it’s demand declined due to large production.

Hence manufacturers started selling in stock lot.

SULZER - RUNNING QUALITIES -APRIL 2018 S.NO

QUALITY

HSN CODE

WT L.MTR

WT GSM

YARN TYPE

WEAVE

STD

PRICE EX.MILL

1

07X07/68X38 - 63

5209

625

390

OE X OE

DRILL

DYEING

96.00

2

10X06/76X28 - 63

5209

510

325

OE X OE

DUCK

DYEING

78.00

3

10X10/68X38 - 63

5209

440

275

OE X OE

DRILL

DYEING

70.00

4

10X10/40X36 - 63

5208

310

195

OE X OE

PLAIN

DYEING

51.00

5

16X08/84X28 - 47

5209

265

225

OE X OE

DUCK

DYEING

46.00

6

16X08/84X28 - 63

5209

360

225

OE X OE

DUCK

DYEING

61.00

7

16X12/84X26 - 47

5208

230

193

OE X OE

DUCK

DYEING

41.00

8

16X12/84X26 - 63

5208

310

193

OE X OE

DUCK

DYEING

54.00

9

16X12/96X48 - 63

5209

415

260

OE X OE

DRILL

DYEING

73.00

10

16X12/108X56 - 63

5209

470

295

OE X OE

DRILL

DYEING

82.00

11

16X16/60X56 - 63

5208

300

187

OE X OE

PLAIN

DYEING

55.00

12

2/20X10/40X36 - 48

5208

235

193

OE X OE

PLAIN

DYEING

44.00

13

2/20X10/40X36 - 63

5208

310

193

OE X OE

PLAIN

DYEING

57.00

14

20X20/60X50 - 63

5208

225

140

OE X OE

PLAIN

DYEING

45.00

15

20X20/60X60 - 50

5208

200

155

OE X OE

PLAIN

DYEING

40.00

16

20X20/60X60 - 63

5208

245

155

OE X OE

PLAIN

DYEING

48.00

17

20X20/60X60 - 67

5208

255

155

OE X OE

PLAIN

DYEING

51.00

18

20X20/60X60 - 72

5208

275

155

OE X OE

PLAIN

DYEING

54.00

19

20X20/60X60 - 78

5208

300

155

OE X OE

PLAIN

DYEING

59.00

20

20X20/60X56 - 131

5208

480

150

OE X OE

PLAIN

DYEING

96.00

21

20X16/108X56 - 63

5209

345

216

OE X OE

DRILL

DYEING

67.00

22

20X20/108X56 - 63

5209

327

205

OE X OE

DRILL

DYEING

63.00

23

20X20/108X56 - 67

5209

345

205

OE X OE

DRILL

DYEING

67.00

24

20X20/108X56 - 72

5209

370

205

OE X OE

DRILL

DYEING

72.00

25

30X30/76X68 - 65

5208

195

112

CARDED

PLAIN

DYEING

55.00

26

30X30/68X64 - 63

5208

175

110

CARDED

PLAIN

S.DYEING

47.00

27

30X30/124X64 - 63

5208

260

165

CARDED

2/1 TWILL

DYEING

70.00

28

40X40/92X88 - 67

5208

200

118

COMBED

PLAIN

DYEING

68.00

29

40X40/92X88 - 72

5208

215

118

COMBED

PLAIN

DYEING

72.00

30

40X40/100X96 - 65

5208

205

125

COMBED

PLAIN

DYEING

72.00

31

40X40/100X96 - 72

5208

230

125

COMBED

PLAIN

DYEING

78.00

SLUB Fabrics - (Warp - Normal yarn + Weft Ringspun Carded Slub yarn) 1

10X10/40X36 - 63

5208

315

195

OE X RS

PLAIN

DYEING

64.00

2

16X08/84X28 - 63

5209

370

225

OE X RS

DUCK

DYEING

74.00

3

2/20X10/40X36 - 48

5208

240

195

OE X RS

PLAIN

DYEING

55.00

4

2/20x10/40x36 - 63

5208

315

195

OE X RS

PLAIN

DYEING

72.00

ALL PRICES ARE EX - MILL. (GST 5 % ADDITIONAL)

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April 2018

SUSTAINABLE FIBRE

Clothing From Mohair Fibre We all know that 2009 is named as the YEAR OF NATURAL FIBRES. It may be vegetable fibre or animal fibre. The use of various type of natural fibre in spinning of synthetic or worsted yarn was at the peak from 1980 to 1990. We all know during this decade Jayashree Textiles ( a unit of Aditya Birla group ) situated in Rishra , Dist Hooghly ( West Bengal) was the main manufacturer of Poly/wool blends with Ramie, Flax, Hemp, Silk ,Camel hair, Angora, Mohair , Pineapple etc under the able guidance of Mr Jayant Shroff , Mr Badal Das , Mr R.N.Chatterjee and Mr Govind Rathi . During this period the author had a chance to work with the above pioneer people of fancy worsted yarn production in India.

Almost during the same period the use of various type of natural fibres was used in Poly/viscose synthetic spinning at Gujarat Spinners Ltd situated in Amletha, Rajpipla, Gujarat under the able guidance of Mr Asis Bagrodia, Mr B.K.Ametha, Mr J.S.Anand , Mr S.K.Bhatia and Mr P.K.Choudhury . The fibres used were Flax, Jute, Silk, Mohair, Ramie etc. During this period the author had a chance to work with the above pioneer people of fancy synthetic yarn production in India. All the above fancy yarns were used in making fabrics like suiting, shirting and dress materials like Gwalior Suitings, Raymonds, Digjam, Vimal Suitings, Dinesh etc.

Although wool is by far the most important animal fibre, there are a number of hair fibres which are of considerable commercial value. These come mostly from animals of the goat and camel families. Mohair comes from Angora goat, one of the oldest animals known to man. Mohair is only produced by Angora goats’ .Mohair is considered a luxury fibre because it is a silky material and should not be confused with Angora fibres which come from Angora rabbits. And cashmere, which is a softer fibre obtained from another species of goat. Until early in the nineteenth century, Turkey was almost the sole producer of Mohair .As the manufacture of textiles expanded during the period of the Industrial Revolution, efforts were made to raise the Angora goat in other parts of the world. The Angora goat, which originated in Turkey, has a coat of long, lustrous hair which provides the textile fibre known as Mohair .Much of the world’s production of Mohair is in Turkey, South Africa and the USA. Mohair is the hair of the Angora goat, native to the province of Angora, Turkey.

This species of goat is now raised in South Africa and the United States, principally in Oregon, California, and Texas.

The U.S. is now the chief producing country and also the biggest consumer of Mohair .Some domestic Mohair, particularly the Mohair obtained from Texas, is of excellent quality.

Imported Mohair is long staple, 9 to 12 inches (230-300

April 2018

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mm) long and allowed a full year‘s growth before shearing. Mohair is as warm as wool although it is much lighter in weight making it ideal for traveling. Mohair is also desirable due to its warmth, durability and beauty and has been used to make garments for kings, sultans and as part of the tabernacle in the bible.

Production – The domestic goat is shorn twice a year, yielding a shorter staple, from 8 to 10 inches (200 -250 mm) .They are usually clipped twice a year, providing about 1.8 – 2.3 kg (4-5 lb) of Mohair per animal at each clip. Good quality Mohair goats will produce 10-20 pounds of Mohair per year in two shearing’s yielding staple lengths of 4-6 inches .Imported Mohair can be spun to fineness of Ne 60 in yarn count. The highest count possible for domestic fibre is Ne 40 .The domestic fibre has a great amount of coarse, stiff hair, known as Kemp, which does not process readily or allow thorough penetration of dye. Quality Mohair comes in two basic styles, a ringlet shaped lock with bundles of fibres together and flat wavy locks. Most animals will also have some Kemp or modulated fibres. Kemp fibres have a hollow core ,are coarser and shorter than the Mohair lock and will stick out of the yarn and make a garment feel scratchy .These fibres are the “guard hairs “ that exist to help protect the animal from the weather .Angora goat breeders work hard to breed this out of their stock.

This may be why most Angora goats don’t like being in the rain. With little or no guard hairs they can get wet to the skin and need shelter from the rain especially if it is cold.

Modulated fibres tend to be as long as the Mohair and still have some hollow characteristics but are not considered to be as big of a problem as kemp. Therefore the quality of the fibre varies, depending on its source and the conditions under which the goat has lived.

Fleeces are graded into three types as below: 1.Tight lock - It is characterized by its ringlets and is usually very fine.

2. Flat lock - It is wavy and of medium quality.

3. Fluffy or open fleece - It is the least valuable.

As in the case of wool, Mohair contains the dead, dull fibres that are known as kemps. The fibres vary in length, depending upon the age of the goat. Mohair is typically sold in three grades .These grades are also used as classes in fleece competition judging. a. Kid – Finest of all grades .It can be in the 19-20 micron range .Usually the first and second shearings from the Angora goat are kid grade. At six months ,an Angora kid will provide fibres 10-15 cm (4-6 in ) long

25

SUSTAINABLE FIBRE b.Yearly – Fine to medium .Usually the 3rd and 4th shearings from the goat although some animals will remain fine past this point and is considered fine adult. At twelve months, they will be 23-30 cm (9-12 in) the goat will be less than 2 years old. c. Adult – While the Angora goat is not considered to be a full adult until 4 years old, adult fleece is generally considered to be any fleece from a goat more than 2 years old.

The fibre can be fine, medium or “strong” depending on the quality and age of the animal.

The surface of a Mohair fibre has some resemblance to that of wool .It is covered with epidermal scales which are anchored much more closely to the body of the fibre than are wool scales. There are only about half as many scales as there are on wool. Mohair has some 5-6 scales per 100 microns length of fibre, whereas fine wool will have about Properties of Mohair Fibre – It is two – and – a –half times as strong as wool and outwears it. Unlike sheep’s wool, it is not curly .It is stronger than wool and produces hardwearing fabrics. Mohair resemble wool in being covered with epithelial scales and in consisting of keratin .But the scales are more smoothly arranged and so Mohair do not felt readily as does wool fibre . Mohair has a circular cross-section. It is a smooth, strong and resilient fibre. It does not attract or hold dirt particles. Mohair fibre is more uniform in diameter than wool fibre. It does not shrink or felt as readily as wool.

Mohair is almost non-flammable .When placed under, or near, a naked flame, it tends to shrivel into a bead like ash. Once taken away from the flame, burning stops instantaneously. Early Teddy Bears were made from Mohair because of this property and because there is less allergic reaction to Mohair than wool. Mohair can be twisted or bend without damaging the fibre .This is due to its structure which established it is the most durable of all animal fibres.

Mohair will stretch an average 30 % over its length and then will be able to spring back into shape. Due to this property, Mohair garments resist wrinkling, stretching or sagging during wear. Mohair possesses great strength.

Diameter to diameter, it is stronger than steel. Mohair fabrics are wrinkle –resistant and do not mat readily because of the natural resiliency of the fibre.

Comparison of properties of Mohair fibre: Blending of Mohair fibres – It is very difficult to spin 100 % yarn. So it is mixed with other fibres to make warm, lightweight fabrics. The hair can be used for knitting yarn. Vardhman and Oswal Industries mix Mohair with Acrylic fibre by 10-15 % and make knitting yarn which is used for making sweaters, cardigans etc. Thick, spongy, open fabric, in plain weave, with a very hairy texture .Its composition is usually 70 % Mohair and 30 % wool.

26

properties

Mohair

silk

wool

cotton

Tenacity gm/ den

2-2.5

1-1.5

1.5-2.0

2-5.5

Elongation ,%

30-40

25-45

25-45

6-10

Density ,gm/ cm3

1.32

1.341.38

1.33

1.501.54

Moisture regain ,%

13 .0

11.0

14-16

9

Acid resistance

Excellent

excellent

excellent

Bad

Alkali resistance

Bad

good

bad

Excellent

Resistance to moth/fungus

Resistance to fungus but not to moth

Resistance to fungus but not to moth

Resistance to fungus but not to moth

Resistance to moth but not to fungus

U.V resistance

good

bad

bad

good

Dyeing and finishing of Mohair fibre – Like wool, Mohair is contaminated with natural grease, dirt and vegetable impurities. These may account for as much as one-third of the weight of the raw fibre .The clean, scoured fibre is usually white and silky.

Acid dyes and Metal complex dyes are used for dyeing of Mohair fibres. It absorbs dye evenly and permanently. It dyes well and has an attractive luster .The luster of Mohair is one of the most important characteristics .Luster is the natural sheen of the fibre caused by light being reflected more directly by the larger outer scales of the fibre . This luster or sheen helps dyed Mohair resist fading caused by time and the elements and makes it very hard wearing.

Different types of functional finishes are given to the Mohair fabrics. One of them is it is made mothproof.

Uses of Mohair fibre – Uses include fancy goods, felt hats, linings, plushes and in blended yarn‘s for use in men’s and women‘s suiting fabrics. It is very expensive. Mohair can be combined with worsted yarn, or woven alone, to produce a very lightweight, shiny, attractive suiting fabric. It is used for men’s lightweight suits, dinner jackets etc. The Mohair / wool blended fabric is bulky and can be used for warm ,lightweight lined coats ,but is best for simple wrap-over jackets, sleeveless waistcoats ,etc. which are unlined ,and is excellent for shawls and stoles .It is soft and may ‘seat’.

Mohair is used to a considerable extent for making plush fabrics.

Mohair is characterized by its remarkable resistance to

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April 2018

SUSTAINABLE FIBRE wear .Mohair fabrics are therefore used wherever durability is the first essential. Upholstery in public vehicles, car hoods, etc are often made from Mohair where resistance to wear and tear can be combined with attractiveness.

for giving permission to publish this article.

In combination with wool, Mohair is often used for summer suiting. It is made into all manner of dress materials, plushes and astrakhans.

Dr N.N.Mahapatra

Acknowledgement – The author is thankful to Mr Subhash Bhargava FSDC (UK), MD, Colorant Ltd ,Ahmedabad

COLORANT LTD

President

INNOVATIONS

Few New Innovations In Fibers & Yarn 2018 Exhibition Mumbai PRODUCT INNOVATION Nimbark is known for its innovative product and in this exhibition we introduce the product which contains different types of polyester fibers & yarns. Its gives the feel of wool as well as warm effect, but it is much light in weight.

Our latest Linen innovation, more cotton & less Linen used but it feel and look like 100 % Linen and it’s much more cooler then Linen specially for summer season.

Printed dyed yarns have been introduced in the exhibition, which is different and better than mélange yarns. Advantage can be Quantity , printed yarns can be serve with less quantity as compare to mélange yarn.

Winsome textile believe in Sustainable Fibres and fabrics, innovative collection like Fabrics give unique double shade effect in single structure, Fabrics give unique star like effect in galaxy, Fabrics give unique SNOW ON A GRASS LIKE effect on fabric surface, Injection Slub Yarn, Jaspe Yarn, Sparkle & Shing Yarn, Solid Dyed Yarn

April 2018

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Product development at Kapotex continues to be one of the key corner stones that maintain its reputation as one of the world’s leading carpet yarn solution providers. Manufacturing facility is located in Sarigam Industrial Estate, neighboring Vapi in Gujarat, near the city of Mumbai Production facilities are contemporary with global standards

BRAND INNOVATION

Birla Cotsyn Introduced New Garment Brand as YVB (YASH VARDHAN BIRLA ) Birla Cotsyn first time launched its Garment brand YVB ie Yash Vardhan Birla in this exhibition. Birla Cotsyn is one of the giant yarn manufacturer had integrated forwarded and ventured into garment segment with YVB brand Suiting which have wide range of Men’s Blazers /Suits.

Suits are made up of polyester & Viscose fibers.

27

FASHION FOCUS

Fashion Products Development By Inspiration Of Indian Folk Art And Craft Designs Abstract Product development in fashion segment is very challenging for the designers to innovate trends and styles regularly , since consumer are primarily looking for new look in purchasing of the fashion products. As India is marked by its rich traditional heritage of tribal folk arts and culture generated by the tribal and rural people of India, The folk art and craft is also have continued to show case their creative brilliance in various products. Presently the art and craft in textiles like warli, madhubani, and aari is gaining much popular among the wearer. Keeping the importance of art and craft in this work we have made an attempt to inspire the old crafts and painting and craft like saura, patachithra, gond and mural painting. The inspired designs are incorporated in the selective location in woven and knitted apparels by block, screen and hand paintings. An innovative product is also undergone series of subjective evaluation from the wearer’s perspective and reported. The report shows good rating scale from the subjects, the evaluation of rating scale from the apparel retailer feedback and their perspective shows good value addition from the innovative product developed from the inspired folk art designs.

materials available in the place in which they were executed, these very factors that helps to identify the region.

Folk art may be defined as the art created among groups that exist within the framework of existing society, but, for geographical and cultural reasons, are largely separated from the sophisticated and cultural reasons, and the developments of their time. As a result, they produce distinctive styles and objects for local needs and tastes .The common stylistic characters in folk-art are preference for simple outline and choice of typically representational lines; a simplification of colors and volumes so that shading is eliminated; Stylization of motifs to create decorative elements; and repetition of lines, of entire figures, of dots for intensive or rhythmical purpose .Since innovation plays a critical important in the apparel and fashion product development , an attempt have been made in developing innovative fashion products by inspiring and implementing the Indian folk art designs in the garment in order to bring awareness and importance of Indian folk art by garment designing.. These designs are incorporated in the form of block printing, hand painting and screen printing. The opinion about the new product developed is carried out by subjective evaluation from the wear’s perspective and retailers.

1.Introduction

2. Indian folk arts

Indian paintings are the so-called “folk” paintings dating back to a period that may be referred to as “timeless”.

These are living traditions, intrinsically linked with the regional historic-cultural settings from which they arise. It has an age-old heritage that can be traced back to the beginning of civilization on this subcontinent. It began with cave paintings, with the natural dyes so strong that they can still be seen today on the walls of the caves after centuries. The folk and tribal painting comes from the remote rural and tribal regions; sometimes the artists of these rustic works are not even educated. They lack the basic means to attend schools, and as they are gifted with such beautiful mean of expression by nature. The various painting forms coming from these regions began not just as a painting but also as a religious and social ritual performed daily. It began with painting the walls and floor of mud houses. They hide the belief that this purified the ambience and pleased the deities. Various religious and symbols were therefore seen within the painting. The term ‘folk paintings’ here encompasses pictures made in Indian villages by both men and women, for ornamentation of their abodes, portrayals of their gods and for their various rituals; and, by local professional painters or artisans for use of the local people. All these paintings were produced in a variety of styles and themes. History, sociology and geography infused the painting of each region with local flavor. Their style and quality depended on the

2.1 Saura

28

Saura paintings are from the Saura tribes who live in Orissa. Saura tribe is one of the oldest known communities in India. These paintings are found on the mud walls of their houses. The painting usually depict the daily activities in the life of the saura’s .The Saura’s depiction of the human form is similar to that of the warli’s and hence at times, Saura painting are mistaken as Warli paintings. However the two styles of painting differs distinctly in their use of colors, background, and other details.

2.2 Gond Gond art is characterized by the sense of belonging with the nature; it is popularly practiced much by tribal people of Madhya Pradesh. This painting created in this art is bold, vibrantly colored paintings, depicting mainly flora and fauna. The colors from the char coal, cow dung, leaves, and colored soil. If we look very closely the craft design is made up of dots and lines.

2.3 Patachitra Patachitra painting can be traced back to the 12th century AD it is one of the earliest form of painting practiced by tribal people of Orissa , it is one of the most treasured art in India, Artist followed stylized traditional forms to creates figures of men’s, women’s, fauna in depictions of

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FASHION FOCUS mythological tales.. Although several centuries old, patachitra continues to be a living art form practiced even today.

2.4 Mural The roots of the extant mural tradition of kerala could be traced as far back as the seventh and eighth century A.D. It is not unlikely that the early kerala murals along with its architecture came heavily under the influence of Pallava art. The oldest murals in Kerala were discovered in the rock-cut cave temple of Thirunandikkara, which is now in the Kanyakumari District of Tamil Nadu. The hall of the cave must have once been richly decorated with paintings. However at present only sketchy outlines has survived the passage of years.

3. Fashion Product development methods In this work we have taken a survey in leading apparel retail show rooms to find any value addition has given for the garment by Indian folk art designs. The survey is carried out in five leading apparel retailer showrooms by examine at least ten garments sample and found out any traditional Indian folk art designs is implemented in the garment.

As per our survey the percentage of availability of Indian folk art designs in retail showrooms are very few as the percentage is coming in an average of 17.4%, we have decided to incorporate the Indian folk art designs in garments by machine and hand embroidery, hand painting, screen and block printing . The details of designs used and design development method are mentioned in the table 1. Totally we have constructed eleven garments by using woven and knitted fabrics. In each garment we have applied the folk art designs. Subjective evaluation form the wearers perceptive is also carried by rating scale ask 1- Poor, 2 - Average, 3-Good, 4-Very Good, 5-Excellent) 3.1 Method of applying the design in the fabrics and garments • Block printing: For the block printing rectangular teak wood blocks were taken and the designs are first printed on the paper and stuck on the block on the teakwood piece. With the help of steel chisels of different width, carving of the wood takes place based on the design specification, the fig 1 and 2 shows the wooden block development. After developing the wooden blocks, the designs are implemented in the garment by dipping the block in the acrylic paint for printing.

3.After finishing the development of screens; it is placed above the garment. It is better to place another fabric or paper under the selected location to avoid the dye smudge. After the screen printing, garments were allowed for drying for more than a hour, garment is also pressed in the reverse side.

3.2 Method of implementation of the folk art in garments Table 1 Method of implementation of folk art design Style code

Inspiration of Indian folk art designs

Product description

Method of implementation

Target Group/Segment

Style 1

Saura

Kurta

Hand Painting

Women’s Wear

Style 2

Saura

Stole

Hand Painting

Women’s Wear

Style 3

Gond

T Shirt

Hand Painting

Women’s Wear

Style 4

Mural

T Shirt

Hand Painting

Women’s Wear

Style 5

Mural

Skirt

Hand Painting

Women’s Wear

Style 6

Patachitra

Kurta

Hand Painting

Women’s Wear

Style 7

Gond

Swing Bag

Hand painting

Men’s wear/ Women’s wear

Style 8

Mural

Purse

Hand painting

Women’s wear

Style 9

Gond

Pillow Cover

Hand Painting

Home Textile

Style 10

Mural

Kurta

Screen Painting

Women’s wear

Style 11

Gond

Kurta

Machine Embroidery

Men’s Wear

• Hand painting : For the hand painting acrylic paints are used for painting two to three coats are given, after the completion of painting the garment is allowed to dry for 24 hours and it is pressed in the reverse side, If the pressing is not carried out the paint will drain off within a wash.

• Screen printing: Screen is developed with VINER HAND ITC font style and in the font size of 36 as shown in Fig

April 2018

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29

FASHION FOCUS

Fashion Product development

Figure 3 Screen development

4. Innovative folk art Apparel products and Opinion from the wearer perspective The eleven garments were shown to wearer to express their opinion about the folk art design .The customer are preferred novel design of saura and mural art where the scale rating is very good to excellent, the wearer opinion rating is mentioned in the fig 4. In general for other garment styles rating scale falls under good, the innovative concept of folk art design and changing the elements of design enhance the aesthetic appearance of the garments.

Saura- Kurta (Women’s wear)

Saura- Kurta (Women’s wear)

Gond-T Shirt (Hand painting

Gond- Swing Bag (Hand painting

Mural- Kurta (Women’s wear

The apparel retailer is also critically examine all the products as shown in the fig 5.the retailer expressed positive feedback and overwhelming response in selling of the newly innovated and value added fashion product.

Mural-T Shirt Women’s wear (Hand painting)

Fig 5. Apparel retailer examining the product

Mural-T Shirt Women’s wear (Hand painting)

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Mural- Purse (Hand painting)

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Mural- Wrap over skirt (Hand painting)

April 2018

FASHION FOCUS CONCLUSION We have successfully developed eleven innovative fashion products by inspiring the Indian folk arts. The products developed were taken for opinion from the customer by conducting the subjective assessment. The subjective rating of eleven products falls in the scale rating of good to excellent for all the products. The is a overwhelming and good response from the retailer perspective, the retailer is also suggested that to concentrate more on accuracy of the hand painting. As the cost of developing product is quiet less, designers and new product apparel product developers will have the huge space in the market for the development of folk art inspired product. Presently consumer preference is focusing more on the amalgamation of ethnic and modern design outfit .New innovative folk art products will have good and wider scope in the niche market segment of fashion product development and apparel retail space.

References cited 1. Shailaga D. Naik, “Traditional embroidery of India”, A.P.H Publishing corporate, 2012.

2. Elaine stone, “The dynamic of fashion”, Fairchild published, 2004.

3. S. Saimen John “Traditional knowledge of folk crafts in Tamil Nadu”, Indian Journal of Traditional knowledge. Vol 9(3), July 2010, pp 443-447.

4. Sivapriya Sekar, “A study on selected folk art forms respects to Indian fashion”, International journal of interdisciplinary research and innovations, Vol 2, issue 3, pp (73-78), July 2014.

5. C.P. Patel, “The Saura and the panoramic painting”, Orissa the review, Jan 2005.

6. “Evaluation study of tribal and folk arts and culture in West Bengal”, Orissa, Jharkhand, Chatiskar and Bihar.

7. Hari Chauhan, “Wood carving from Pabbar valley”, Indian journal of traditional knowledge. Vol 4(4), Oct 2005, pp 380-385.

8. Sajnani Manohar, “Encyclopedia of Tourism Resources in India”, Vol 2, (2001).

9.

Jaya Jaitly,” Crafts atlas of India”,Niyogi Books, 2012.

10. www.myindianculture.com 11. www.indianfolkarts.com 12. www.archive.india.gov.in

13. www.ignca.gov.in Acknowledgement The authors acknowledge the support given by the Management, the Principal and Head of the Department of Apparel Technology, PSG Polytechnic College for their encouragement and support in completion of this work.

Also we thank our students of Apparel Technology M. Dharin, S. Karthik and R. Pavithra devi who contributed for this work.

A.N. Sai Krishnan and V. Chandrasekaran

Department of Apparel Technology, PSG Polytechnic College, Coimbatore 641 004, India E-mail: vijayysai@gmail.com

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April 2018

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31

TECHNICAL ARTICLE

Impact Of Weave On Functional Properties Of Fabrics INTRODUCTION There are seven major parameters of a fabric structure which govern the properties of the fabric - type of fibre, linear density of yarn, epi x ppi and fabric weave. The weave of a fabric depends on its end use, which impacts the functional and aesthetic properties of the fabric to a greater extent. Therefore a coherent design of a fabric involves understanding of correlation between fabric structure and its functional as well as aesthetic properties. The properties of a fabric vary with weave due to introduction of parameters like float length and number of cross-over points. The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of weave on different physical properties of fabric.

METHODOLOGY The weaves considered for this study were Plain, 2/1 Twill, 2/2 Twill, 3/1 Twill and 5E Satin. All the fabrics have same fibre, count and construction – 30s Modal having a construction of 72 x 72, along with same machine parameters. The weave designs of the fabrics are shown in the figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5.

Figure 1. Plain

Figure 2. 2/1 Twil

Table 2. Sizing recipe The trials were taken on CCI Automatic Sampling Loom SL8900. Details of the loom are given below: Weving Width

18 inches

Speed / RPM

30 RPM

Shedding

Dobby Shedding. Maximum 20 heald frames driven pneumatically by air cylinders

Weft Insertion

Single Side Flexible Rapier

Weft Selector

Maximum 8 colours electronic weft selection device

Selvedge

Leno

Table 3. Loom parameters of CCI Automatic Sampling Loom SL8900 After being woven, the fabrics were pre-treated with identical processing conditions and parameters.

Process Route

Processing Condition

Machine

1. SINGEING

Speed 70mpm two rounds.

Singeing

2. DESIZING

Desizing Enzyme: 2 gpl

Singeing maching+ rotating station

Figure 3. 2/2 Twill

Wetting agent: 1 gpl 3. WASHING

First a boil wash at 90°C, 2ends.

Jigger

Sample check for desizing

Figure 4.3/1 Twill

Figure 5. 5End Satin

4. CAUSTIC TREATMENT

Caustic Flacks: 45gpl run at RT, 2 ends.

Jigger

5. WASHING

First a boil wash at 90°C, 2 ends.

Jigger

6. SCOURING

Soda Ash: 2gpl

Jigger

S r . Warp No.

Weft

Weave

EPI

PPI

1

30s Modal

30s Modal

Plain

72

72

Soap: 2gpl

2

30s Modal

30s Modal

2/1 Twill

72

72

Run at 80°C, 2 ends.

3

30s Modal

30s Modal

2/2 Twill

72

72

4

30s Modal

30s Modal

3/1 Twill

72

72

5

30s Modal

30s Modal

Satin

72

72

Table 1. Fabric Parameters The yarns were sized prior to weaving. The size box is electrically heated and the temperature is electronically controlled. Roller type electrically-heated drying through contact is achieved. The size recipe that was taken is as follows:

7. WASHING

Hot wash at 80°C 2 ends.

Jigger

Cold wash at 50°C 2 ends.

8. DRYING

At 100°C

9. CHEMICAL Softener as per requirement FINISHING

Lab Mini-Stenter Lab Mini-Stenter

Binder as per requirement Acid- 0.5gpl Dry at 120°C

PVA

2 Kg

Table 4. Wet Process Route and Recipe

Water

30 Kg

Size Box Temperature

90 °C

All tests were carried out under alike testing conditions i.e. 27 ± 2 °C temperature and 65% Relative Humidity.

Drying Temperature

100 °C

32

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TECHNICAL ARTICLE RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS Sr. No.

Weave

Finished RxP

Thickness

Shrinkage

Tearing

CRA

Water Absorbancy

Tensile Strength

Air Permeability

Warp

Weft

Warp

Weft

Warp

Weft

mm

%

%

N

N

°

°

Warp

Weft

Seconds

kg

Kg

l/m2/s

1

Plain

84X80

0.4

-0.62

0

17.56

17.14

83

84

0.244

23.2

21.5

545.4

2

2/1 Twill

88X82

0.51

-2.5

0.62

22.16

16.51

105.5

110

0.33

24.3

15.1

674.2

3

2/2 Twill

86X78

0.53

-1.25

-1.25

22.78

18.18

98.5

100

0.252

26.3

11.1

734.6

4

3/1 Twill

86X78

0.494

-2.5

-2.5

30.73

21.74

103

95

0.272

25.6

16

813.8

5

Satin

86X76

0.512

-3.75

-4.37

42.23

38.46

102

112

0.27

18.8

20.2

1390

Table 5. Test Results 1.Shrinkage Testing the effect of washing and drying on dimensional stability of the fabric gives information about the fabric types and is thus useful for the end consumer. It is observed that type of weave has a significant effect on the dimensional behavior of fabrics. Plain weave is showing the lowest shrinkage because of higher number of interlacement points. On the other hand, satin weave with the lowest number of interlacement points has shown the highest shrinkage.

Figure 7. Effect of weave on tensile strength

3. Tearing Strength The results illustrate highest tearing strength in satin fabric followed by 3/1 twill, 2/2 twill, 2/1 Twill and plain woven fabrics. 2/2 twill and 2/1 Twill fabrics show nearly same strength values. The reason being the loose structure (long floats) of satin fabric which gives chance for grouping of threads to occur, resulting in high tear resistance.

While in plain fabrics, as the binding points are relatively more, the thread movement decreases, hence tearing resistance drops.

Figure 6. Effect of weave on shrinkage

2.Tensile Strength Tensile strength can be defined as maximum load a test specimen can withstand when subjected to uni-axial loading. The strength of fabric depends not only on yarn strength and its constituting fibre’sstrength but also on its fabric structure. Plain woven fabrics tend to show highest tensile strength as the interlacement points are more, providing a higher contact area, hence leading to greater frictional force and resistance to slippage of yarns in the fabric. On the other hand, tensile strength decreases as we go from plain to twill and to satin, reason being increasing floats and lesser binding points

April 2018

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Figure 8. Effect of weave on tearing strength

4. Water Absorbency There are several factors which affect water absorbency like fibre type, GSM, thickness of fabric and weave. It is

33

TECHNICAL ARTICLE seen that as the float decreases, the pore size in the fabric decreases. And as the fabric is wetted, the yarns swell, thus blocking the pores in between them. Therefore, a loosely woven fabric is prone to have higher water absorbency, as depicted in the below graph

Figure 11. Effect of weave on air permeability

CONCLUSION

Figure 10. Effect of weave on water absorbency

5. Air Permeability Air permeability is another property that depends on size of pores and inter-thread channels in a fabric which are reliant on fabric structure. It can be clearly seen from the figure, the air permeability increases with increase in float length as the increment in float length makes the fabric loose to allow air to penetrate through it, and vice-versa.

Mr. Ganesh Jadhav (Manager-TRADC), Ms. Ankita Kaushik (Asst. Manager-TRADC)

The forgoing discussion gives an idea about the relation between fabric structure and its properties which is wrapped up as below: • As the number of interlacement points in the weave increase, the fabric shrinkage lowers after processing, while its tensile strength increases.

• Loose structure of fabric results into high tearing strength because of grouping of threads when the load is applied. On the other hand, an increase in number of binding points in the structure restricts the thread movement, thus reducing the tearing strength of the fabric.

• A fabric with higher floats is likely to absorb more water as compared to that with that is tightly constructed with more binding points, because a fabric with more binding points and tight construction has smaller pore size which decreases further as the fabric gets wet due to swelling of constituting yarns.

• Likewise, air permeability also depends on pore size and is found to be more in fabrics with more number of floats.

VDMA: German Technology meets Indian Textiles and Nonwovens Decision-makers from the Indian textile and nonwoven industry are warmly invited to register under www. germantech-indiantextile.de for the next VDMA Textile Machinery Conference and B2B-Forum from 15 to 16 May 2018 in Mumbai (Hotel The Leela). Registration is mandatory. The VDMA will bear organizational costs (no entrance fee). Deadline for registration: April 30, 2018.

The VDMA organizes the event in close co-operation with the VDMA India Office, important media partners and Indian textile associations such as CITI. More than 30 wellknown VDMA textile machinery and component will hold 36 application-oriented presentations about spinning, knitting, weaving, finishing, dyeing and embroidery. Other important cross topics, such as automation, digitalization (Industry 4.0) and smart production technologies will show all kind of Indian textile manufacturers how to improve their competitiveness.

State-of-the-art-technology will be presented in three sessions:

34

• Textile machinery & components for the fiber & yarn industry (May 15, 2018) • Textile machinery & components for the technical textiles and nonwovens industry (May 15 & 16, 2018) • Textile machinery & components for the apparel, home textile & carpet industry Networking among the participants and experts will be reached also through a B2B meeting area and conference dinner / high tea.

In addition, a training seminar at VeermataJijabai Technological Institute will take place on 17 May 2018 at the premises of VJTI in Mumbai. Mrs. Regina Brückner, chairperson of the VDMA Textile Machinery Association states: “The knowledge needed to keep up in the textile business is changing at a faster rate, which makes lifelong learning a must. The knowledge transfer at the VDMA event will improve the competitiveness of the Indian textile industry not only in the short but also in the medium and longterm. The students of today are the decision-makers and technical managers of tomorrow.”

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April 2018

SHOW REPORT

TEXTILE INDUSTRY: MOVING BEYOND THE CONVENTIONAL PARADIGMS - 9TH ASIAN TEXTILE CONFERENCE (ATEXCON) Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI) organised its 9th Asian Textile Conference on 14th March 2018 in Hotel ITC Maratha, Mumbai. The theme of the Conference was “Textile Industry: Moving Beyond the Conventional Paradigms”. The event was inaugurated by Dr.Kavita Gupta, IAS, Textile Commissioner, Government of India.

Dr. Kavita Gupta acknowledged and congratulated the industry for reaching to a level where they can leapfrog into a different orbit. She highlighted the need to integrate MSMEs to achieve the inclusive growth of the sector. The highlight of her address was the brief history of Indian textile sector which spanned from the age of poet and weaver, Kabir up to the state-of-the-art infrastructure being developed in Indian textile parks these days.

Mr. Sanjay K. Jain, Chairman, CITI delivered the Welcome Address and wherein he highlighted the importance of being disruptive and innovative in order to maintain the vibrancy and energy in this sector. Mr. Jain also requested the government and industry to look for out of box solutions to resolve the long pending issues plaguing the textile and apparel sectors of the industry.

of Thanks in the inaugural session and Mr. D. L. Sharma, Vice Chairman, CITI proposed Vote of Thanks in the concluding session.

The conference featured four Sessions on Sub-themes related to Policy Support, Innovation, Global Value Chain and Retail. The sessions featured who’s who of the Indian textile and apparel sector including private companies, industry associations & councils, machinery suppliers, and other service providers. Each of the session had elaborate discussion and presentations on the current status and the shape of things to come. The panelists’ growth story, remarks and future ideas kept the large audience fully engaged in the conference.

The event saw the overwhelming response from the textile industry and more than 450 delegates, including eminent international speakers and leading textile companies from India and abroad attended the mega event.

Mr. Sanjay Jayavarthanavelu, CMD, Lakshmi Machine Works Ltd. - the Principal Sponsor of the Event - delivered the Special Address in the Inaugural Session. In his special address he highlighted the scope and challenges of the textile machinery industry in India.The theme presentation delivered by Mr. Prashant Agarwal, Joint MD, Wazir Advisors, knowledge partner to ATEXCON, presented the global trends which are changing the shape of industry and focused on initiatives required to be taken up by industry to keep pace.

Mr. T. Rajkumar, Deputy Chairman, CITI proposed Vote

TAI –Vidarbha 15th International & 73rd All India Textile Conference

“Fibre to Fashion – Integrated Growth Roadmap”

After its enormous success in 1979, 2006 & 2015, The Textile Association (India) – Vidarbha has successfully hosted 15th International & 73rdAll India Textile Conference in Nagpur, on “Fibre to Fashion - Integrated Growth Roadmap “on 02nd & 03rd February, 2018 at Dr. Vasantrao Deshpande Auditorium, Nagpur.

Dignitaries lighting the lamp at inaugural function

April 2018

www.textilevaluechain.com

Dignitaries lighting the lamp at inaugural function At the inaugural function Shri. Arvind Sinha, TAI, President, and Central Office: R. K. Dubey, President, TAI, Vidarbha Unit: Dr. Hemant Sonare, Conference Chairman, Hon. Secretary, TAI-Vidarbha & newly elected ChairmanTextile Association of India, T. K. Sengupta, Newly elected President, TAI, Central Office: Dr. U. N. Wagmare, Director, CICR, Guest Of Honor, Hon. Shri. Anil Joshi, Ex Tex-

35

SHOW REPORT tile Commissioner, Govt. of India: Chief Guest Dr. C. D. Mayee, Former Chairman, Agriculture Scientist Recruitment Board: Sanjay Meena, Director Textiles, Govt. of Maharashtra: Shri. D. A. Kulkarni, Dy. Secretary, Textiles, Govt. of Maharashtra: Shri.D. R. Mehta,Imm. Past President, TAI, and Central Office: Shri.V.D.Zope & Haresh B. Parekh from TAI Central office was on the dais.

Inaugural Function started with Invocation dance by Ms. Kalyani Savadkar, Pune, then the lightening of the lamp

by Chief Guest and dignitaries.

Dr. HemantSonare, Conference Chairman & Hon. Secretary, TAI, Vidarbha & newly elected Chairman, Textile Association of India welcomed all the dignitaries and the participants and briefed in his welcome address about the current scenario of Textile Industries and the farmers in the Vidarbha region. The tone was appropriately set by him by presenting the theme of the conference with described main objective to educate, encourage and empower the delegates present from all across India. He mentioned that several new textile units and the Textile Parks are coming up and the Ministry of Textiles have sanctioned such projects to make the Vidarbha as a future Textile Hub of the country. He said, three years before TAI-Vidarbha organized 12th international & 70th All India Textile Conference at Nagpur had created environment for growth in textile & clothing. Our attempt has boosted confidence of cotton growers and local industries to envisage Vidarbha as a future textile and garment hub of the country. He said, Vidarbha is a land where maximum number of suicides happened in last few years and known world as ‘Land of Suicides’ He Said, for survival of cotton farming sectors of Vidarbha collective and collaborative efforts from entire supply chain are required. He said, Textile Association will address various issues of cotton and take corrective steps including educating various people in cotton value chain. He said this is an emotional conference which will design Future Integrated Road Map from Farm to Fashion for progressive growth.

While inauguration celebration Mr. Arvind Sinha, President, TAI Central Office highlighted about the activities and events so far organized and he informed about the events proposed to be organized in current year. He appreciated efforts of Dr. Hemant Sonare to promote & accelerate growth of Textile Sector of Vidarbha .He wished him best luck for his new role as “Chairman” Textile Association of India. He informed that recently, The Textile Association (India) Central Office and TAI Delhi Unit organized 2 days Global Innovators and Researchers Conclave at Sonepat, (Haryana) on 20th & 21st January, 2018. Overall Conclave was excellent and very successful. Almost 1000 people attended the first day function, industry people from nearby areas, bureaucrats and faculty members from all afflicted colleges. After this conclave two other Universities had offered us to conduct the Conclave in next year in their campus.

36

Mr. D. R. Mehta, Immediate Past President, TAI, Central Office highlighted about the current scenario of Textile industry and hoped that there will be rising days for the textile industry. He highly appreciated and shown his pleasure for the conference organized with an excellent arrangement by Dr. Hemant Sonare and his entire team.

During the Conference the Textile Association (India) felicitated the personalities for the recognition of their significant contribution to the Association and the Industry by the hands of Chief Guest Dr. C. D. Mayee and other Guest of Honors.

Dr. Hemant Sonare has launched new social Initiative “ Cotton Vidarbha” to address distress & suicides of Cotton cultivating farmers from Vidarbha region after award function.

Dr. U.K. Gangopadhyay has been awarded Honorary F.T.A. for the significant contribution in the academic field.Mr. R. K. Vij has been awarded with Service Appreciation Award (Instituted in memory of Hon. Maj. R.P. Poddar), for the recognition of his services to the Association and his extra ordinary efforts for promotion of textile industry. Mr. Rajeev Ranjan has been awarded with Service Appreciation Award (Instituted by Shri H.A. Shah) and Mr. H. C. Shah has been awarded with Service Appreciation Award, (Instituted by Shri J.J. Randeri), for their services to the Association at Unit level.

Chief Guest Dr. C.D. Mayee mentioned in his inaugural speech that (Please add here the brief of Chief Guest speech) “Cotton Vidarbha” social Initiative by Dr.Hemant Sonare launched at inaugural function Dr. C.D. Mayee delivering his inaugural address While inaugural function, all the dignitaries on the dais were honored and felicitated with the Mementos by hands of various dignitaries of Textile Industry, one by one. At the end of inaugural session, President, TAI-Vidarbha ,Rajivkumar Dubey proposed the vote of thanks.

Thereafter, Chief Guest Dr. C. D. Mayeee, Guest of Honors and other dignitaries inaugurated the Exhibition, focusing textile industry and visited the various Exhibition stall along with other guests. He dialogued with the exhibitors. About 22 Exhibitors from all over the Country were exhibited their products for the benefits of participants / delegates.

On first day, in first Plenary Session on ‘Innovation & Research Ecosystem in Textile Sector’ Mr. Kaizer Z. Mahuvala ,President ,Indian Textile Accessories & Machinery Manufactures Association chaired the session and Prof.

S. P. Gadge was the moderator. Dr. M. D. Teli, Mr. Bino George, Dr. U. K. Gangopadhyay, Mr. Sanjay Chawla, Mr. Laxmikant Rathi and Mr. Rajiv Ranjan presented their informative and interesting views.

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April 2018

SHOW REPORT Thereafter, in the first Panel Discussion after Lunch on ‘Advantage Vidarbha’ Prof. Deepak Kulkarni and Dr. Hemant Sonare were the Session Chairman and Moderator respectively. Mr. Jayraj Bajaj,Public Relation officer ,MIHAN, Shri.Joshi , Mr.Chandramohan Sharma, Gimatext ,Hinghanghat Textile Park , Dr. Hema Bhure ,Ms. Barkha Shende &, Capt. Dr. L. B. Kalantri were the panelists.

In third Plenary Session on ‘International Scenario of Textile & Clothing’ Mr. D. R. Mehta chaired the session and Mr. R. K. Vij was the Moderator. Mr. Arvind Sinha, Mr. Manish Daga and Mr. Lakoka Subramanian were the speakers. Technical Sessions on various topics related to the conference were deliberated in Plenary Sessions & Panel Discussion by eminent speakers across the country in two days. All the presented papers were informative.

At the end of first day conference, an entertainment program & Fashion Show was presented by students of various fashions Institute’s from all across Vidarbha. They presented their beautiful and attractive new creations.

The fashion show was choreographed by Mrs. Rachana Hemant Sonare, Director, Texcellence institute of Design, Nagpur On second day early morning 6am there was Half Marathon organized by TAI Vidarbha ‘Run for Farmers’. It was well attended & appreciated by Students the delegates participated in the Conference.

After the Half Marathon, in first session Mr. Gajanandada, addressed on ‘Life Changing – Transformative Workshop’, which was a very useful in human lifestyle. His presentation was very much knowledgably and must observe in human life.

In the Panel Discussion on ‘Indian Cotton Industry – Way Ahead’ Mr. Manish Daga was a Moderator and Mr. Badrudeen Khan, Dr. Hemant Sonare & Mr. Vijay Jawandiya were the panelists. Mr. Vijay Jawandiya presented his views strongly for the benefit and the growth of farmers.

He has taken the lead initiative and assured to make unity for Vidarbha Farmers.

During Valedictory Session, Shri .Prashant Mohta, Managing Director, Gimatex Industries Pvt. Ltd. Was honored for his contribution in the Textile sector development of Vidarbha & he spoke about various challenges of Textile Industries in India. A prize distribution to the winners in the Poster Presentationcontest, Innovation contest and Designer contest were given by hands of all the dignitaries on dais.

The Conference ended with Dr.Hemant Sonare’s concluding remark, he expressed thanks to all eminent speakers of the sessions for their incredible inputs, suggestions and proposals for all out efforts to achieve the pinnacle of success through backward & forward value added growth.

He said expectations are high, prospects are bright but capitalizing on the new emerging opportunities in textile value & supply chain will be a challenge. Only the unbridled actions of people, entrepreneurs, dreamers, visionaries, risk takers, job creators and wealth creators can lift India at an altogether new level of prosperity and well being. This conference was enthusiastically attended by luminaries from textile and allied sectors making it truly a conference with a difference. Members of TAI, leading technocrats, industrialists, manufacturers, traders and businessmen, various Government officials turned out in great numbers for the conference with great expectation of being exposed to see of technological advancements and knowledge in multifarious exponents of textiles & garment sector. Galaxy of Speakers from all across India was present to share their experience. Leading fashion Institute of the region, Texcellence Institute of Design, Nagpur was acted as the Knowledge Partner of the successful 15th International & 73rd All India Textile Conference. On the whole, The 15th International & 73rd All India Textile Conference and Exhibition turned out a grand success with over 1000 participants along with Students gained much from the discussions and deliberations held. .Shri.

V.D. Zope proposed vote of thanks & Grand successful conference ended with National Antham.

In the last Panel Discussion on ‘Opportunities and Challenges for Ginning Section’ Mr. Anil Joshi, Mr. R.K. Dubey, Dr. M. K. Sharma, Mr. S. K. Shukla and Dr.M.S.Kairon were the panelists.

Last Plenary Session on ‘Technology Advancement and Innovations’, Prof. D. S. Kulkarni chaired the session Prof.

Mohan Gokhale Prof. M. V. Gokhale moderated the session ,Dr. Swarnima Singh, Ms. Gauri Bhargava, Dr. N. N. Mahapatra and Prof. (Dr.) M. S. Parmar were the speakers.

All the presentation and the discussion in both Plenary Sessions and the Panel Discussion were with most relevant topics and all were much on innovative, informative and research.

April 2018

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TEXTILE POLICIES COMPARISON Comparison of State Textile Policies Between Maharashtra and Andra Pradesh Head

Maharashtra

Policy Period

2018-2023

Andhra Pradesh 2015 - 2020(All textile units/activities commissioned during Industrial Investment Promotion Policy 2010-15 period can opt for the benefits afforded under this policy for the remainder of the five year eligibility period.)

Head

Maharashtra

Andhra Pradesh

Capacity Building/Training Institutes/Centres

A scheme will be formulated for State Government funding to CFCs subsequent to the receipt of Central Government funds, for their utilization for training. This will help maximize the impact of the Central Government‟s Integrated Skill Development Scheme (ISDS)

Enterprises acquiring technology - assistance of up to 50% of the investment in technology / collaboration - max amount of Rs.25 lakh per process/product,only once during operative period of the scheme.Enterprises availing a benefit for the same purpose under any other scheme of the State Govt.will not be eligible to get benefits under this scheme.

Head

Maharashtra

Andhra Pradesh

Apparel Training In- A scheme will be formulated for State Government funding to CFCs subsequent stitutes/ centers to the receipt of Central Government funds, for their utilization for training.

This will help maximize the impact of the Central Government’s Integrated Skill Development Scheme (ISDS). Additional training courses will be designed by the industrial training institutes (ITIs) to cater for the needs of the textile industry.

The government will formulate schemes for integrated three tier development of the workers (hard skills, soft skills and life skills) with the help of experts in this field.Training courses will be developed for the textile industry and co-operative spinning mills in the areas of human resources development, power savings, time management, supplychain management, skill enhancement and ISO certification, etc.

Head Skill Development

Head

Head Interest Subsidy

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Maharashtra

Andhra Pradesh

The State Textile University will be set up in the State with support from the Central Government and in collaboration with Agriculture, Higher Technical Education and Skill Development Departments. This University will offer certificate, diploma, graduate and post graduate degrees related to the textile sector

Training Centres 50% of their investment towards purchase of equipment and machinery, electrification and necessary furniture subject to a max. of Rs.20 lakh per centre Reimbursement of tuition fees to trainees, Assistance for Training of Trainers & Training Support to Powerloom Sector

Maharashtra

Power Assistance

any autonomous institution promoted by govt. /PSU’s or private sector with a substantive background of textile and apparel industries or skilled manpower development will be provided assistance upto 75% subject to a maximum amout of Rs. 4 crore of the project cost.

Andhra Pradesh

A subsidy of Rs 2 per unit will be given to spinning mills (except co-operative spinning mills), processing units and all other textile units which are using more than 107 HP power

Power cost Reimbursement @ Rs.1.00 per unit for Spinning and modern Ginning and @ Rs.1.50 Per unit for other Categories (including Technical textiles) for a Period of 5 years from Date of commencement Of commercial production.

Maharashtra

Andhra Pradesh

The policy of capital subsidy in lieu of Interest subsidy to the new, expansion & diversification / modernization projects undertaken during the Textile Policy 2011-17 will be continued with modifications in the Textile Policy 2018-23.

Additional capital subsidy will be granted to processing plants set up in the cotton growing areas of Vidharbha, Marathwada and North Maharashtra. The details of the Capital subsidy rate and the duration for various textiles units are as follows:

Interest subsidy @ 8% per annum for Weaving(with or without preparatory),Dyeing &Processing, Knitting, Garment/Made-ups, Machine Carpeting, Machine Embroidery,Technical Textiles and any other activities/ process like crimping, texturizing, twisting, winding, sizing, etc.within the Textile Value Chain and up to 7.5% for Spinning & modern Ginning.Interest subsidy will be capped at 12.5% taking into account assistance from all sources (centrally sponsored TUF scheme,industrial policy of the state,etc.).

Interest subsidy will be for 7 years which will include 2 years of moratorium.

Units availing interest subsidy under TUF are only eligible for this benefit.For the purpose of this scheme,either 12.5% or the bank prime lending rate or the rate of interest actually charged,whichever rate is less,will be taken as the applicable rate of interest.

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April 2018

TEXTILE POLICIES COMPARISON Head Textile Parks

Maharashtra

Andhra Pradesh

The scheme of providing Rs. 9 crore or 9% of project cost, whichever is lower, to the projects by the State Government and those which are approved under Central Government SITP scheme (Government Resolution dated 25 May 2012) will be continued.

Integrated Textile Hubs / Parks by the MIDC will be set up at Amravati, Aurangabad,Beed, Buldhana, Jalna, Jalgaon, Nanded, Parbhani, Yavatmal and Wardha. Essential infrastructure such as roads, water, electricity, etc. and facilities of testing labs and CETP will be provided at these Integrated Textile Hubs / Parks. At least 100 Ha land ateach of these Mega Integrated Textile Hubs will be developed. Similar Textile Hubs / Parks will be set up as per requirement in the Vidarbha, Marathwada and North Maharashtra regions through MIDC.

park developer and enterprisesin the park will be eligible for reimbursement of stamp duty on lease of land required for the new park. For establishing common infrastructure facilties - fin asst. up to 50% or max. Rs. 50 crore (Rs. 30 crore for composite/ integrated park) limited to 10% of project cost (excluding cost of land) 50% of project cost for setting up of CETP at industrial clusters/textile parks or Rs. 10 crore, whichever is less. in case of handloom sector, 80% of the project cost for CETP or Rs. 2 crorewhichver is less will be provided as one time grant. assistance upto 50% subject to a max amount of Rs. 50000 each for energy audit/water audit/enviromenta lcompaliance

7.6.4 Textile Parks / Hubs will be established by MIDC at Ichalkaranji (Hatkanangle) and Solapur.

Head

Maharashtra

Andhra Pradesh

Capital Investment Subsidy

capital subsidy in lieu of Interest subsidy to the new, expansion & diversification / modernization projects undertaken during the Textile Policy 2011-17 will be continued with modifications in the Textile Policy 2018-23. Additional capital subsidy will be granted to processing plants set up in the cotton growing areas of Vidharbha, Marathwada and North Maharashtra. Construction cost of ETP / CETP / ZLD in the processing projects will be eligible for capital subsidy. 5% additional capital subsidy for projects with investment of Rs. 500 crore and above. If it is the first project / pioneering project in that taluka then additional 5%, totaling to 10% capital subsidy will be applicable. New / Expansion / Diversification / Modernization self-financed textile projects will be granted capital subsidy as per capital subsidy in lieu of Interest Subsidy Scheme.

capital subsidy up to Rs. 10 crore to stand alone garmenting and apparel units, as per investemet is indicated below.

These units will not be eligible for VAT/CST/SGST incentives.

Self-financed projects in the Vidarbha, Marathwada and North Maharashtra regions will be granted additional capital subsidy. Textile projects of scheduled castes / scheduled tribes / minority communities will be granted capital subsidy as per the above mentioned capital subsidy in lieu of Interest Subsidy Scheme. Capital subsidy will be given for machinery required for ZLD / ETP / CETP in the processing projects. Long term loans for capital subsidy under the centrally sponsored TUFS scheme (including any subsequent modifications by the Central Government to these schemes) or long term loans (excluding taxes) approved by financial institutions or banks for machinery approved by the State Government.

The eligibility for capital subsidy will be decided based on the installed capacity of the project and actual annual production.

Head

Maharashtra

Green Technology / energy and water conservation

Head link of policies

Andhra Pradesh

Special incentives will be given to textile projects implementing environment friendly solar and wind energy projects. If spinning mills, powerlooms and textile projects are ready to set up green energy projects then the State Government, in collaboration with MEDA, will formulate a scheme for providing appropriate subsidy to reduce the overall power subsidy.

Maharashtra https://www.maharashtra.gov.in/Site/Upload/Government%20Resolutions/Marathi/201802171625204302.pdf

Andhra Pradesh http://www.apindustries.gov.in/APIndus/Data/Industry/Textile%20Policy_April_2_2015.pdf

Compilation by Bhavesh Thakar, Secretary General, Spinners Association - Gujarat

April 2018

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39

COVER STORY

Vidarbha: The Next Emerging Textile & Clothing Hub Textiles and apparel demand from India will set to grow exponentially. There has been a progressive trend in textiles in respect of global competitiveness level from 2 % in 2002 to 5.8% in 2017. With the economy of scale this upward trend will continue in future. India has a huge domestic textile and apparel market. India will certainly become the second largest by 2030. Textile Industry is changing very rapidly with global challenges to meet the requirements. The potential growth of Indian textile and clothing industry lies in an effective vertical integrated value chain structure. The textile supply chain is very diverse in terms of the raw material used, technologies deployed and product produced. There is sustainable value addition at each stage of processing from raw material to delivery of finished product, contributing much at every stage. The industry is highly brand driven as well as acutely segmented and extremely competitive. Industry growth is also dependent on operations like branding, marketing, communications, strategic planning, human resource management & logistic management.

Government of Maharashtra recently launched policy for textile sector desires to provide a fresh stimulus to the textile industry in Maharashtra. The new policy aims at generating 10 lakh new jobs in the next five years and doubling farmers’ income by the year 2022. New textile policy is forward looking and investment friendly, Cotton producing area like Vidarbha, Marathwada & North Maharashtra have given required importance in the policy.

New policy will not only fill the gap of policy paralysis but also incorporates some of the very important concerns of textile sector of Vidarbha. Positive bold decisions like creation of Garment Complex at Nagpur & Textile University at Vidarbha will increase importance of Vidarbha in Textile & clothing map of India . This intent is laudable given the fact that although our textile industry is major sector next to agriculture sector ,we do not have a single university dedicated to Textile sector. A big step for filling skill gap for technical operations by creating Textile University at Vidarbha is a welcome move of Maharashtra government. A big void for filling skill gap analysis for technical operations in textiles has also been fulfilled by ideas of creating a complete textile university in Vidarbha.

This initiative will help to make Vidarbha new Knowledge Destination of Textile & clothing sector. The opportunities are now knocking the doors of Vidarbha’s textile & clothing industry. In order to boost confidence of cotton growers and local industries to envisage Vidarbha as a future textile and garment hub importance is given at every level. Forward and backward integration can be the key for success to address farmer’s distress of this region Textile Association of India-Vidarbha through annual All

40

India Textile Conferences advocated aggressively to foresee a desired development in Vidarbha at every stage from fibre to fashion and translate the thought process into action to achieve value added growth in Vidarbha.

The conferences encouraged value added industry and created positive environment to attract industrial growth with forward and backward integration in all the sectors through effective supply chain management for employment generation, economic development and prosperity of Vidarbha region. It is pertinent to note that many of suggestions recommended through White papers of the TAI’s textile conferences have found place in the policy.

Vidarbha’s cotton and textile industry would be back on the road to glory. The policy offers soaps to industries & focuses on Vidarbha, Marathwada and North Maharashtra regions. The new textile policy would attract investment in the region and create jobs in textile & clothing sector. Vidarbha is the largest cotton-growing regions of India & contributes almost one-thirds of the Maharashtra’s cotton production. Vidarbha’s potential in spinning is recognised and with new textile parks & new investments Vidarbha will be next emerging hub for textiles & clothing.

Special emphasis is given in policy document on setting up processing units in the cotton producing sectors, expansion of the textile industry and growth of employment will provide required boost to the industry. Textile development Fund & Plug & Play premises in Vidarbha will boost investment in the garment manufacturing & value added service sector of clothing industries. Incentivisation based on Grading of cotton bales will increase concern for quality in cotton producing community of Vidarbha.

Much required Emphasis given on Value addition, skill development, Capital Subsidy. Textile policy of Maharashtra also mentioned that efforts will be made to increase the production of silk cocoons and silk yarn so as to produce more silk than the traditional silk growing states and they intend to rope in private players in sericulture sector. The reason behind this is to provide second source of income to the farmers so that farming as a profession becomes economically viable .Innovative approach to promote Adhyatmik Reshim, skill development through Silk training Centre at Amaravati and marketing efforts by creation of silk tourism circles at Gadchiroli, Bhandara and Chandrapur , tussar Tourisam Corridor will give new growth life to Sericulture industry of Vidarbha ,Handloom cluster in Vidarbha can create creative apparels output like ‘Navarari Sari’ and able to reach lost glory in handloom sector. Development Non- conventional yarn energy, wool, other fibers like bamboo,Bannana,ghypat,ambadi, maize &Coir etc, is welcome move from Government of Maharashtra. The policy lays a special focus on strength-

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April 2018

COVER STORY ening the knitting, garmenting and hosiery sector, which will create ample employment opportunities for women.

This will prove to be an important step forward towards women empowerment and development of women entrepreneurs.

Vidarbha have a potential to become Spinning Capital of India. New cooperative spinning mills in Vidarbha will be given equity support as per the existing financial pattern will further strengthen corporate sector of Vidarbha. The new policy and clarity on Good and Service tax GST refund under the new policy has come as a shot in the arm for the State textile operations since last six months both these policies are kept in limbo resulting into paucity of new investment in textile sector. The policy has been designed with focus on reducing regional imbalance of the State by giving additional 20 percent for weak areas and 10 % for all remaining textile segments capital subsidy benefit by promoting textile operations like knitting, processing, technical textiles, garments to encourage entrepreneurs to initiate value added development of the region. Decision to reduce the number of instalments from earlier period of 7 equal instalments to 3 years which will help to solve fund related issues for budding entrepreneurs who wish to start new unit. This is very much required step in avoiding many new investments turning into non performing assets as most of the new units need the financial assistance and availability of fund only in their initial period of set up still they stabilize their operation. Decision like open access to textile companies on priority basis with no cross subsidy surcharge, Power cost reduction to all textile segments The subsidized power tariff to power looms and knitting units as well as garmenting units as well as incentives based on Green energy will certainly reduce cost of production in Vidarbha.Bold declaration will certainly create atmosphere for growth & boost investment in the Textile & clothing sector at Vidarbha.

Government’s positive move & support with entrepreneurs approach to adopt innovative products, practices and processes will certainly address farmer’s distress of this region & set growth roadmap for Vidarbha to be emerging textile & clothing hub of the country.

Advantage Vidarbha : • Vidarbha being a central location of India offers logistical advantage and most economically viable location because of connectivity.

• Vidarbha is a strategic location with quality land, irrigation facilities, connectivity and resource availability.

• Strategic place on international aviation routes, MIHAN (Multimodal International Hub Airport) will increase Vidarbha’s importance as a logistic hub on global map.

•Well connected by rail, road and air to all parts of India • India’s fastest growing cosmopolitan city with highest per capita income

April 2018

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• Abundant availability of raw material • Presence of prominent textile players for many years • Availability of skilled labour • Presence of technical institutes & skill development institutions in and around the vicinity • Being cotton rich region there is huge investment potential within the region through appropriate value addition at each level. The region has tremendous potential for all round value added growth.

• Organic cotton & technical textiles are providing new growth area to the region • Apparel manufacturing has huge potential in the region which is still untapped.

The problem faced by Vidarbha cotton and textile industry could be successfully solved the journey from cotton to clothes was seen as an integrated whole. The minimum price of cotton was to be determined at the State level rather than at the Centre, it would lead to more realistic evaluation of the price of production of cotton. Cotton can play an important role to develop Vidarbha, People needed to change their mindset and think of ways to develop cotton industry in VIDARBHA. Farmers needed to fight poverty and unemployment by using new technology. They could start by setting up ginning and pressing units in Villages. With the use of technology value addition to cotton products could generate demand and increase income of farmers also adapting new techniques of farming the yield per acreage and equity of cotton could be increased. The policy announced is a very forward looking step and would bring in large scale investments in textiles in the region of Vidarbha and is expected to create more than 1 lakh jobs. It will also solve problems of low cotton prices in another 5 years there by giving a lot of relief to cotton growing farmers. It is important to note that cotton growing farmers in the region have been reeling under pressure because of low pricing of the commodity which is considered as one of the major reasons for farmer’s suicide in Vidarbha.

The potential growth of Vidarbha’s textile and clothing industry lies in an effective vertical integrated value chain structure. Connectivity between design, research and innovation is required to achieve success in global market. This is the time for Vidarbha’s Textile & Apparel Companies significantly adopt export oriented culture and quality conscious approach to make strong impression in the global market. There is firing of ambitions in terms of globalization & there is quantum change in the scale of ambitions of India’s business leader and entrepreneurs. THINK GLOBALLY & ACT LOCALLY ‘will be the mantra for future of textile & clothing industry.

Dr.Hemant Sonare

Chairman-The Textile Association of India

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SHOW CALENDAR

April 2018 19-21 TPF Digital Printing

Shanghai/ China

2016.cstpf.com 20-22 Screen Print India 2018

Mumbai/ India

screenprintexpo.in.messefrankfurt.com 24-25 Summit on Textiles

Mumbai/ India

www.iaccindia.com 24-26 International Apparel & Textile Fair

Dubai/UAE

nternationalapparelandtextilefair.com

July 2018 9-11 NGF 2018

Mumbai/ India

www.cmai.in August 2018 8-11

Gartex 2018.

Mumbai/ India www.gartexindia.com

29-31

Gentex expo Colombo/ Sri Lanka www.gentexfair.com

September 2018

25- 28 Textyle Expo 2018

Oran, Algeria.

textyle-expo.com

4-6 Cinte-Techtextil

Shanghai/ China

cinte-techtextil-china.hk.messefrankfurt. com

May 2018

October 2018

4-6 Indian Textile Global summit/ Farm To Fashion Ahmedabad/Gujarat in.eregnow.com

15-19

10-12 AISEX 2018

Colombo/ Sri Lanka

www.saexhibitions.com

November 2018

22-24

Texprocess Americas Georgia / USA texprocess-americas.us.messefrankfurt.com

June 2018

ITMA ASIA +CITME 2018 Shanghai, China www.itmaasia.com

12-14 International Apparel & Textile Fair

Dubai/UAE

internationalapparelandtextilefair.com 14-16 Intex South Asia 2017

Colombo/ Sri Lanka www.intexfair.com/

6-8

Non Woven Tech Asia 2018 Mumbai/ India www.nonwoventechasia.com

27-29

27-29

Heimtextil India Delhi/India heimtextil-india.in.messefrankfurt.com

January 2019

28-29

FICCI - TECHNOTEX-2018 Bombay Exhibition Centre, Goregaon, Mumbai www.technotexindia.in

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18-20

ITMACH Africa Nairobi/ Kenya www.itmach.com 2nd GLOBAL TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY & ENGINEERING SHOW (GTTES) Mumbai/India itme@india-time.com.

June 2019 20-26

ITMA 2019 Barcelona, Spain www.itma.com

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April 2018

INTERVIEW

We are equipped with Hi-tech machinery with good quality control Brand Name : Schoch Reeds Tag Line : Your Weaving Partner • As Schoch Reeds begins from Europe comes down to India and also planning for Bangladesh. Is there any other country where you have to expand your channels in future?

In future we are planning to expand in China as well, visualising good scope there especially for fine counts.

Devendra Bamb Plant Manager & Sales of Schoch Reeds India Pvt Ltd

The founder of Schoch Reed is Mr. Alfredo Schoch, son of Swiss reed makers moved to Italy in 1907 for making his ambition come true. Since 1907 quality is our signature.

We follow this tradition since 100 years from now. Today our commitment to customer continues as a modern and dynamic company, able to compete in an evolving global market. Since 2009 our plant in Kolhapur, India, works side by side with the historic headquarters in Italy under guidance of Mr Matteo Schoch CEO INDIA and ITALY • What all Challenges you faced by Schoch Reeds in India?

People in India are primarily interested for low price but when they see the quality and its service especially the after sale services, they are ready to pay cost against all these factors. On very first stage, we faced some trouble in selling for the pricing but now our customers are comfortable with price.

• In Which Market you are focusing next?

Our core focusis on Asian market and Especially Bangladesh market.

• What motivated you to move towards Bangladesh?

Bangladesh has a very good market for denims. So, to cover the market effectively on catering the products in time, we are planning to establish our outlet in Bangladesh.

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• What is your approach towards technological up gradation?

We have our R&D team at headquarters in Italy and we are already equipped with Hi-tech machinery with good quality control. So with theupgraded technology, our product is all setin market for healthy demand with quality therein.

• Have you seen impact of GST in your Business?

We are happy with GST and we are the same as before because we used to pay VAT and Service Tax and now it’s GST. GST is good in terms of exporting - within India it’s beneficial.

• What are the Current Issues & Problem Faced by you?

Many people nowadays using second hand reeds for cost cutting, but the quality which they produce is not up to the mark. This can be easily identified by their product and its revenue.It’s a very crucial problem which we faced due to Chinese reeds and second reeds.

• What is the USP of your Brand?

Our USP is after sales service. In India there is no reed maker who provides after sales service. We do repairing & maintenance in after sales service. We also provide services to minimize the air consumption of the looms.

• Any New Product which your company had introduced recently?

Yes, it’s the ‘ESR Energy Saving Reeds’.It saves around 20% of air consumption, less electricity as well as adds value to monetary concerns and finding complete weaving package in textile industry.

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TEXO CAMS (INDIA) Our Product For Cams Sulzer Projectile Looms; Cam For Filmtax

Staubli Cams Motions; Tsudakoma Airjet Looms; Picanol Airjet Looms; Toyota Airjet Looms; Somet Rapier Looms;

Cams For Sulzer Looms

VamaTex Looms; Circular Looms; Winding & Spinning Machine

Cams For Staubli Motion

Textile Machinery Spares Toyota Airjet Loom Sulzer Loom Spare Parts Tsudakoma & Picanol Air Jet Spares Cam For Za Zax Series

Cam For Picanol Pat A Loom R

TEXO CAMS (INDIA) No. 927/51, B. A. Panchal & Co. Opposite Parvati Estate, Near Punjab National Bank, Tavdipura, Ahmedabad - 380004, Cams for Tsudokoma Airjet ) +91 98250 09901 , +91 98988 55560 * info@example.com, sales@texocamsindia.com, texo36@rediffmail.com 45 ý www.texocamsindia.com www.textilevaluechain.com March 2018

SKBS SHREE BALAJI SYNFABS

MR.SURESH SARAF

MR. NAYAN SARAF

Contact: Suresh Saraf+91 9322 50 4449 / +91 9322 10 4449 | Nayan Saraf - +91 7498 88 1400 Office Landline - 91-22-6002 0119 / 9699 25 8834 Email : sureshsaraf2000@yahoo.co.in | info@shreebalajisynfabs.com sureshsaraf@shreebalajisynfabs.com | Website : www.shreebalajisynfabs.com

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Address: Room No.-17, Ground Floor, 342 Kalbadevi Road, Mumbai- 400002 www.textilevaluechain.com

March 2018

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We are stockiest / Suppliers of Textile Processing, Weaving Spares & Engineering Spares

Vishal Shah Shreeraj Corporation

Processing Spares:Cloth Guider & Guider spares , Pin Bar , Stenter Brushes , Toughened Glass , Silicon Door Channel and gaskets , Mechanical Seals

Weaving Spares:Airjet & Rapier Weaving Machine spares for Picanol Omni Plus 800 , Picanol Optimax , Tsudakoma Zax 9100 , ZAX - E , Sulzer Spares & more 8 “AKIO� Temple Cylinder and Rings for all kinds of weaving looms.

8 All types of Cutters and Electronic Sensors for several weaving looms.

B-2, NIKUMBH Complex, Opp. Tomato Restaurant, Besides Reliance House, Off C.G.Road , Ahmedabad- 380006 Contact: 09913799333, 079-26409933 Email: sales@shreerajcorporation.com

R.D.Shah Group of Company

Others:8 Rubber & Synthetic Fillets , Pressure Roll Felt/ Roll Coverings for all Purpose 8 Inspection Batching Machine & Spares , Sample Cutting Machine & Spares

We have specialization in developing spares from SS, Carbon, Teflon, Synthetic Rubber, PU Material, Silicon material, Woollen Felt etc

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March 2018

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DN Associates represent in India the following Textile Machinery & Accessories manufacturers N.Schlumberger, France : Spinning preparatory machines for Spun and filament LONG fibres (Website:www.nsc-schlumberger.com) ANDRITZ Asselin Thibeau, France : Complete Nonwoven Lines : DrylaidNeedlepunched, Hydroentangled and others, Wetlaid, Spunlaid and special machines for chemical/hydro finishing (Website:www.andritz.com/nonwoven) Laroche SA, France: Opening and Blending Lines, Textile waste recycling Lines and “Airlay” Nonwoven Lines (Website: www.laroche.fr) LACOM GmbH, Germany : Hotmelt Laminating and Coating Systems – Multi Purpose, Multi Roller, Gravure Roller and Slot Die for complete range of Technical Textiles (Website:www.lacom-online.de) Schott & Meissner, Germany : Ovens, Dryers, Heat Recovery Systems, Heating/cooling calenders, Wet/Dry cooling systems, Cutters, accumulators, Winders, Palletisers and Bonding systems (Website: www.schott-meissner.de) Mariplast Spa, Italy : All type of Yarn Carriers for spun and filament yarns including dye tubes for filament/long fibre yarns (Website: www.mariplast.com) MORCHEM S.A.U., Spain : PUR Hotmelt Adhesives for Technical Textiles, Solvent Based, Water Based adhesives, cleaners and primers https://www.morchem.com/markets-and-solutions/textile-lamination/ Valvan Baling Systems, Belgium : Baling and Bump forming machines for spun fibres and textiles waste recycling lines (Website:www.valvan.com) C + L Textilmaschinen GmbH, Germany : Reeling (Yarn Hank Forming) Machines, steaming, Bulking and Banding Machines for yarns (for Western and Southern India) (Website:www.croon-lucke.com) Schmauser Precision GmbH, Germany : Pin Strips, Faller Bars, Disposable Faller Bars for Intersecting Gills and Chain Gills. Top Combs for Combing Machines in long fibre Spinning Preparatory Lines (website: www.schmauser.com) Groz-Beckert Carding Belgium NV, Belgium : Clothing for Cards and Cylinders used in processing of long fibres, nonwovens and waste recycling (website:www.groz-beckert.com) FARE' S.p.A., Italy : Complete Lines for Spunbond / Meltblown nonwoven products /complete line to produce all type of fibers including mono and bicomponent including PET and PET fibers. Machines for producing Tapes and Rafia (website www.farespa.com) Contact : DN Associates E-mail : info@dnassociates.co.in Website: www.dnassociates.co.in H.O.: 406, “Kaveri” Jagannath Mandir Marg, Opp. Holiday Inn, Near Sakinaka Metro Station, Mumbai–400 072 Contact Person : Mr. Hemant Dantkale Mobile : 98201 06018 Phone No.: 022-28516018 E-mail : hdantkale@dnassociates.co.in Regd.Office: B-310, Universal Meadows, Plot No. 27, New Sneh Nagar, Wardha Road, Nagpur – 440 015 Contact Person : Mr. Yogesh Nawandar Mobile : 98901 53766 Phone No. :0712-2289662 E-mail : ynawandar@dnassociates.co.in Branch Office at Coimbatore March 2018

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