Tempus issue 31

31

/ Wearable technology / K I T ES U R FI N G I N C U BA / French ski special F1 track day / RO G ER S M I T H / High end audio / Watch snob / Diving watches Max B端sser

NOT O N LY MINE BUT A PART OF ME www.francvila.com FV EVOS 18 “Cobra” Suspended Skeleton & FVq80 Tribute to Ladies FRANC VILA HEADQUARTERS & SHOWROOM Grand Rue 6 - Geneva +41 22 317 07 27

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ADMIRAL’S CUP AC-ONE 45 TIDES

With a deep sea diver’s license and a patent for the high seas: Ahoi Atlantik Datum

Find out more about this and other models at nomos-glashuette.com and nomos-store.com

Swiss movement, English heart

C9 H A RRI SON BI G DAY- DATE AU TOM ATI C

Made in Switzerland / Modified ETA 2836-2 automatic movement with Big Day-Date complication by Johannes Jahnke / 38 hour power reserve / 43mm, Hand-polished, 316L stainless steel case / Anti-reflective sapphire crystal / Exhibition case-back / Italian leather strap with Bader deployment

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ISSUE

THIRTY ONE From the editor Editor

Scott Manson

scott@curvecontent.com 020 3617 4693 Designer

Marcus Leitch Commercial Director

Jay Boisvert

jay@curvecontent.com 020 3617 4697 Business Development Manager

Ashley Collin

ashley@curvecontent.com 020 3617 4687 Head of Sales & Partnerships

Ray Fieldhouse

ray@curvecontent.com 0203 617 4684

CURVE CONTENT TEMPUS IS PUBLISHED MONTHLY

BY CURVE CONTENT LTD, 3-7 HERBAL HILL, LONDON EC1R 5EJ

When it comes to over-engineered timepieces, dive watches are the undisputed heavyweight champions.

Like a supercar capable of doing in excess of 200mph, few owners would ever consider pushing it to that limit, and the same holds true of the best diving watches. Take Hublot’s Oceanographic 4000 for example, a watch that, in theory, can still function at depths of up to 4,000m. No diver can ever test this (and live), but the wearer can take comfort in knowing that his prestige timepiece has the potential to outdive a giant squid. With that in mind, why not discover your next diving watch on page 55.

Still on a horological tip, on page 100 we meet three masters of time who have each produced some groundbreaking pieces. These include the inimitable Maximilian Büsser, of MB&F fame, the highly regarded Roger Smith and newcomer Fiona Kruger, whose envelope-pushing skull watch has proved a big hit at Tempus towers.

Elsewhere, we take a trip to a racetrack to test our potential as grand prix drivers in a 1990s F1 car, while another thrill-seeking writer ventures to Cuba in search of the perfect winds and waves to feed her kitesurfing addiction.

All this plus two seriously opinionated industry experts crossing swords regarding the potential of the new Apple Watch, and the lowdown on the hottest hotels and chalets in the French Alps, adds up to another fabulous issue of Tempus – your passport to prestige timepieces and the best in luxury living.

Enjoy the issue.

Scott Manson Editor

PRINTED BY

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Contributors

Tempus is proud to work with some of the UK’s finest timepiece and luxury writers, including:

Ken Kessler

The Apple Watch?

Timepiece expert Ken Kessler remains thoroughly underwhelmed. Turn to page 88 to find out why.

Adam Hay-Nicholls

Alex Doak

Prolific watch writer Alex Doak turns his attention to some treasures of the deep sea in this issue, as he reveals his favourite diving watches on page 55.

As the F1 correspondent for the Metro newspaper, as well as a host of luxury magazines, Adam is well placed to report on an innovative track day that sees participants drive genuine 1990s F1 cars. Read his high-octane feature on page 73.

KINGS ROAD

JERMYN STREET

ELDON STREET

www.emmettlondon.com

CANARY WHARF

L I F E

I S

A B O U T

M O M E N T S

C E L E B R AT I N G E L E G A N C E S I N C E 1 8 3 0

CLIFTON STEEL, 41 MM SELF-WINDING

www.baume-et-mercier.com

INSTORE. ONLINE. MOBILE WWW.THEWATCHGALLERY.COM

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Inside ISSUE THIRTY ONE

22 Take Me There

55 What Lies Beneath

With a host of new airlines increasing their flights to Indonesia, there’s never been a better time to visit this beguiling archipelago

We reveal the dive watches that are currently rocking our boat

25 Luxury Briefing

Realise all your F1 driving dreams at a Racing School track day

67 Go! Go! Go!

Find the finer things in life right here

77 Bon Ski

37 Food and Drink

In the second of our ski specials, we showcase the best chalets and ski operators in the French Alps

Where to eat, drink and be merry 41 The Word

86 Wearable Technology

High-end audio expert Ricardo Franassovici reveals the power and glory of a prestige sound system

Two tech experts go head to head to discuss the ramifications of Apple’s new smartwatch

44 The Watch Snob

95 World of Wine

AskMen’s columnist pulls no punches when solving your horological conundrums

Top tipples worthy of your attention 100 Take 3

46 Fashion and Accessories

The latest in luxe

A trio of groundbreaking horologists reveal the secrets of their success

48 Objects of Desire

115 Chasing Waves

Parmigiani and Bugatti team up to create a truly stunning timepiece

On the hunt for Cuba’s perfect kitesurfing spots

3 1

51 Style Advice

122 Moments in Time

Two top tailors discuss trends in men’s shirts

31

Max Büsser / Wearable technology / K I T ES U R FI N G I N C U BA / French ski special F1 track day / RO G ER S M I T H / High end audio / Watch snob / Diving watches

Special thanks: Steve McC ubbin, Christina Ryder and Graeme Allen

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Cate Blanchett and her beautiful IWC Portofino Midsize Automatic Day & Night watch

I “ finally found all of the privacy and relaxation I had been craving for months on an island as beautiful as it is welcoming.�

www.baros.com

“T he Essence of Maldives” Baros Maldives is a small coral island in the Indian Ocean, just 25 minutes by speedboat from the Maldives International Airport. Set in a translucent lagoon surrounded by a sun-drenched, golden sand beach, ringed with a colorful living coral reef, Baros Maldives is perfect for a holiday to remember forever.

45 thatched Beach Villas are nestled among swaying palms while 30 Water Villas including 15 Water Pool Villas are poised over a shallow, shimmering lagoon. Each villa is stylishly created with sandstone and timber, with fine furnishings and large windows to let in natural light and with contemporary linen blinds for privacy.

The resort’s Deluxe Villas, Baros Villas, Water Villas, Baros Pool Villas, Pool Water Villas and Baros Premium Pool Villas are all equally desirable for a vacation of pure bliss. They each have a king size bed, a daybed to relax, veranda, satellite television, air-conditioning, mini-safe and mini-bar, espresso machine and a wine chiller with sommelier selected bottles.

Water Villas have individual sun decks and stunning views of the sea with steps down to the lagoon for leisurely swimming. All villas have bathrooms en-suite, some open to the sky, others with panoramic views of the ocean. Some beach villas feature indoor and outdoor rainfall showers in a walled wgarden.

A member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World, the award-winning Baros Maldives excels in caring personal attention to meet every guest’s desire. For guests who crave complete seclusion with in-villa dining, an intimate dinner for two on an isolated sandbank, or pleasure and indulgence in one of three gourmet-class restaurants and in the resort’s elegant cocktail lounge or Palm Garden, Baros Maldives is the answer.

Baros Maldives is dedicated to couples, whether on a secret interlude together, a honeymoon in the sun, a special anniversary, or for those who just want to enjoy each other’s company away from stress and hassle.

No small children or groups are allowed to disturb the serenity of this tropical idyll, and staff members are discreet and understanding.

The Spa features especially created revitalizing treatments and exclusive yoga sessions. A resident marine biologist and PADI dive center educate guests as they explore the reefs, and a luxury yacht and traditional sailing dhoni are available for guests to venture further through dolphin-filled waters to other islands on day excursions or sunset cruises.

For relaxation, there are comfortable loungers and hammocks in the Palm Garden, an over-water infinity swimming pool open to all guests, a library of films and books, and culture aplenty in the Maldivian Lounge with The ultimate in secluded privacy is the Baros Residence with its antique maps and artefacts. a large linen-canopied bed and an extravagant bathroom en suite. A day bed on the sun deck and sun loungers Guests return again and again to Baros Maldives, charmed overlook the Residence’s swimming pool in a secret, walled by the warm hospitality and memorable moments that are garden; a butler is on call to assure warm and willing service. the essence of the Maldives.

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Take me there Indonesia

From beautiful Bintan Island and the coral-reef surrounded outpost of Kanawa to Komodo, home of the giant Komodo dragon and some of the best diving in the world, the Indonesian archipelago is a feast for the senses. With 17,000 islands to visit and more than 500 languages spoken, its diversity provides a host of unforgettable experiences for the intrepid visitor. While internal travel and island hopping is traditionally done in tiny fragile planes, rusty ferries and structurally questionable buses, you can at least arrive there in style as three carriers – Garuda Indonesia Airlines, Royal Brunei Airlines and Oman Air – have increased their flights to the area. With winter looming, there’s never been a better time to explore this beguiling destination.

tourism-indonesia.co.uk

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R

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Best of British

B R EM O N T A N D C H I VAS

Ah, fine watches and great whisky – two staples of the Tempus office.

What better way to combine the two than with the new limited edition Bremont Chivalry timepiece, produced in association with Chivas, and to be sold at auction later this month with proceeds being donated to The Prince’s Trust. Parts of a Chivas oak cask have been used for the rotor and, for those who don’t manage to snag one of the ten watches available, there is also a handsome whisky tin, complete with timepiece movement images, available to buy at selected retail outlets. bremont.com, chivas.com

Best foot forward

THE SHOE SNOB

Born from The Shoe Snob blog, required reading for fashionistas and shoe designers alike, founder Justin FitzPatrick has now launched this great looking collection of Goodyear-welted, high-quality footwear. Available on The Shoe Snob website, the J.FitzPatrick line comprises loafers, boots, oxfords and monkstraps. The latter, as every dapper gent knows, is the shoe style of choice for this season. It’s time to treat your feet, courtesy of this great British brand. theshoesnob.com

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In a spin

Every watch collector needs a winder and RDI, a Swiss family business, make some of the finest, and quietest, on the market. The pinnacle of the collection is the Safe-Lift (right), which uses more than 1,200 components in its construction and is a fitting tribute to watch complications. It’s produced strictly to order and includes a remarkable rotating gears feature and room for four watches. A finely crafted piece that provides a fitting home for prestige timepieces. rdi-remontoirs.ch

Face-off

H A LDA

Swedish watch brand Halda has released a fabulous convertible watch that will appeal to F1 fans, as well as anyone who appreciates robust, beautifully engineered sport luxe timepieces. Clad in black titanium and powered by a Zenith movement, it comprises two interchangeable ‘modules’ – one mechanical and one electronic – with the latter offering a chronometer for racing lap times and a g-force meter. It’s also preloaded with full maps of the world’s top 150 racetracks and has a super-loud alarm function – useful if you need to hear it over the revving of your supercar’s engine.

haldasweden.com

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Water of life

T H E G LEN LI V ET W I N C H EST ER C O LLECT I O N The Glenlivet has just released some of its finest whisky to date – a collection of rare and precious 50-year-old single malt Scotch whiskies from the single malt that started it all. The Speyside whisky was first put into casks for maturation in 1964

by Captain Bill Smith-Grant, the last remaining distilling descendent of founder, George Smith. There are just 100 bottles available globally, priced at £18,000 per bottle, with the first now on sale at London’s Harrods. A truly exceptional spirit. theglenlivet.com

Contemporary classic

V ERT U AST ER

When it comes to luxury smartphones, Vertu is the only game in town and, with the recent release of the Aster model, the brand has introduced a more glamorous, unisex aesthetic to its product range. Handmade in the finest materials and available in a striking palette of colours, the Aster offers Dolby digital sound, Hasselblad imaging, encrypted communication and Vertu’s renowned 24/7 concierge service. British engineering at its best. vertu.com

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the astron gps solar chronograph. the watch that adjusts to your time zone*.

By connecting to the GPS net work, the new Astron adjusts at the touch of a but ton to your time zone* and, by taking all the energy it needs from light alone, never needs a battery change. *Time zone data as of January 2014. Time zone can be also manually adjusted as required.

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Game-changer

SWATC H S I ST EM 51

The world’s first mechanical movement with entirely automated assembly could only have come from Swatch, a company that first shook up the watch world with its stylish, well priced quartz timepieces more than 30 years ago. The movement is hermetically sealed, with its escapement regulated by a laser during production, and will never need servicing. It offers a 90-hour power reserve and comes in four colourways at the moment, although you can expect this to increase considerably in time. The future of affordable mechanical watches has arrived. swatch.com

From Glashütte, with love

NOMOS

The tonneau form of Nomos’s Lux collection has long been a favourite with the Tempus team and now the German watch brand has updated the range with three fabulous new ladies watches, available with dials in grey, lemon yellow and aubergine. Elegant, modern and underpinned by a fine in-house movement, all three watches are available from selected retailers from November. A great Christmas gift for a woman with taste – it’s guaranteed to be love at first tick. nomos-glashuette.com

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BULANGANDSONS.COM

Image: Rob Truijen

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London calling

SA LO N Q P

London’s Saatchi Gallery will once again play host to Salon QP, the UK’s premier event for watch enthusiasts, from 6-8 November.

Among the highlights is Gems Of Time, a specially curated exhibition that celebrates the heritage, glamour, and craftsmanship of high jewellery watches. Visitors can also see the latest pieces from brands such as TAG Heuer, Jaeger LeCoultre and Montblanc, plus first-time exhibitors that include Bonhoff, SevenFriday and Struthers. A mustcheck event for every horophile. salonqp.com

Mechanical masterpiece

B OV ET

Pascal Raffy, the owner of Bovet, has a true passion for watchmaking that shines through in every one of his pieces. The new Recital 12 Monsieur Dimier is a case in point, with its in-house single barrel movement reverse fitted to reveal the gear train and oscillating weight on the dial side. A seven-day power reserve, off-centre dial and triple seconds hand only add to this superb, and super slim, dress watch. bovet.com

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Since 1920

Paris - Saint Barth - New-Yor

www.cuveecarbon.com

k - Moscou - London - monaco

L’ A B U S D ’ A L C O O L E S T D A N G E R E U X P O U R L A S A N T É , À C O N S O M M E R A V E C M O D É R A T I O N

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TRENDS AND NEWS FROM THE BEST BARS AND KITCHENS BOB BOB RICARD

Reviewed by Scott Manson

There are few restaurants in London that can match the buzz of Bob Bob Ricard when it’s full. We’ve popped in on a wet Wednesday at 7pm and it’s already packed with fashionable types chatting and reveling against the fabulous backdrop of David Collins’s ornate restaurant design. I’m with a friend from Manchester and, while that city has many fine restaurants, he’s the first to admit that it offers nothing quite like this place. London, you may be a tough place to live sometimes, but you do give good restaurant.

Designed to look like an art deco dining car, complete with leather banquettes (very comfy), lamp lights, lots of brass and wallpaper so ironic it should be wearing a beard and sporting a sleeve tattoo, this could easily have been a triumph of style over substance.Thankfully, a well-judged high-end comfort food menu, combined with friendly and efficient waiting staff, meant that the eating experience more than lived up to the front-of-house theatre.

After pressing the ‘press for champagne’ button in our booth – a brilliant idea – we investigated the Anglo-Russian menu. My starter of smoked borsch was as good as a version I’d enjoyed in Moscow, with meltingly tender smoked Orkney beef fillet providing the backbone of this hearty soup. The lobster burger, a signature dish, was a quirky looking thing, complete with its tail poking out of from the bun. It was delicious, although I did experience serious food envy when a neighbouring table received a beautifully rare beef wellington for two. I briefly considered jumping across to join them (it’s that kind of restaurant) but instead helped my dining

partner with his superb crispy suckling pork belly, served on a red cabbage and apple puree, with a truffle gravy.

Classy, but not stuffy; fun, but not tacky, Bob Bob Ricard is a must-check for anyone looking for a memorable dining experience. bobbobricard.com

GET ON THE LIST Cognac brand Rémy Martin has announced the launch of its first members club, La Maison Rémy Martin, which will open from 25 November to 6 December across four floors at 19 Greek Street in London’s Soho. Sample and buy special editions of cognac, plus some fabulous cocktails courtesy of the capital’s best mixologists, in this exclusive space. It’s invite-only but there are 100 memberships available to those who enter a competition by visiting the website below. lamaison.remymartin.com

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CHAPTER ONE Now this is a treat. Not the restaurant, although that is pretty special, of which more later. No, I’m talking about the fact it has a car park. An unusual thing to praise, you might think, but it’s a genuine novelty to visit a London restaurant that you can drive to without worrying about traffic, the congestion charge and negotiating the streets for an age in search of a parking place.

Granted, we’re on London’ s borders – the delightfully named Locksbottom in Kent to be exact – but it’s a suitably relaxing start to what proved to be a seriously good dining experience.

Our friendly waiter tells us that there’s been a restaurant here for decades – first it was the Fantail, then the New Fantail, before acquiring its present name around 20 years ago. The head chef, Andrew McLeish, has been with the restaurant for over a decade and trained with Nico Ladenis at Chez Nico before moving to The Ritz and then The Landmark, so he has the technical skills and sophisticated style you’d expect from that classic apprenticeship.

After relaxing in a comfortable bar area with a glass of bubbles, we were taken through into the restaurant, a large space

The wild bunch

By Peter Dean Drinking wine has altered immeasurably over the years, but one of the biggest changes has been knowledge about grape varieties. Not so long ago most of us drunk by brand alone, but today’s wine drinkers recognise the difference between, say, a chardonnay and a sauvignon blanc or a merlot and a shiraz and order accordingly.

There has never been a better time to be more adventurous in your worldwide drinking as there are a whole spate of grape varieties that are just itching to be more widely drunk, and all are relatively easy to find. Look out for the following – a real wild bunch – alvarinho from Portugal,

Reviewed by Scott Manson with well-spaced tables and a smattering of tasteful art on the walls.The most impressive artistry, though, was reserved for the dishes themselves. We passed on the tasting menu, well-priced at just £75 with wine flight, and instead investigated the impressive à la carte offering. My ballotine of foie gras starter was as decadent and moreish as you might expect – it’s rare that I eat it so, when I do, I always hope for the very best, and this did not disappoint. Between courses, a complimentary taster came from the kitchen in the form of an escabeche of red mullet – a fish favoured by the Romans and, on the strength of this serving, by my dining partner and myself too.

Main courses were similarly strong, from my partner’s moist and sweet pan-roasted hake with Jerusalem artichokes, caramelised shallots and pickled trompettes to my grouse, a special of the day, which avoided all that awkward bone picking by being served as a couple of hefty rare chunks. Artfully arranged and totally delicious – this should become a menu staple when in season.

The waiter recommended the peanut and chocolate tart for dessert and I’m glad he did – it’s easy to see why AA and Michelin

inspectors rate this place so highly. We left at around 10pm on a Friday night and the place was still buzzing, packed with wellto-do-locals all sporting the sort of satisfied grin that comes from having a fine restaurant like this on your doorstep. chapteronerestaurant.co.uk

assyrtiko from Greece and aglianico from Italy. You’ll be glad you did.

out of Portugal’s Minho province. It can refer to all colours but is most associated with the crisp whites that are made from the alvarinho grape. Alvarinho, linked to Spain’s albarino of course, was one of the first Portuguese single varietals to be bottled. It is fresh, perfect with shellfish, yet subtly fragrant and has a rich texture.

The best can cellar for up to ten years.

Try Soalheiro Vinho Verde ‘Primeiras Vinhas’ Alvarinho. £22.75 a bottle, nywines.co.uk

AGLIANICO First grown by the Greeks, this black varietal now clings on to only the hardiest, craggiest parts of southern Italy. It makes tannic brutes of wines in unskilled hands, but balanced, fruit bombs by the best.There are two main wines that are made from this grape in Italy, Taurasi and Aglianico del Vulture, but try Serpico 2001, Feudi di San Gregorio which was hugely fashionable about 20 years ago, reaching £90 a bottle.

Prices have come down and you can get some aged beauties at half the price. £46.99 a bottle, twrightwine.co.uk ALVARINHO Vinho verde literally means green wine and is collectively used to refer to the nine regions of young wine that comes

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ASSYRTIKO Still grown in Greece, or Santorini and Paros to be exact, this white variety relishes arid, volcanic soil and makes heady, rich wines on account of the wine never really losing its acidity, much in the same way that riesling rarely does. Try Hatzidakis Santorini 2003, and if you like that go on and try his vino santo dessert wine. £11.50 a bottle, thewinesociety.com

swiss watch winder K10

• black

• choice of 16 programs body made of laquered glass and leather- finely chiseled columns • available in four versions • can also overlap together

swiss made

www.rdi-watchwinders.ch info@rdi-watchwinders.ch

Swiss Watch Winder I LES AMBASSADEURS – Genève – Rue du Rhône 62 I MAVERICK – Watch & Jewellery – Genève – Grand Hôtel Kempinski – Quai du Mont-Blanc 19 I I ANTIQUORUM – Arcade du Cercle de L’Horlogerie – Genève – rue du Mont-Blanc 3 I I LES AMBASSADEURS – Lugano – Via Nassa 5 I AIRBIJOUX – Bijouterie-Horlogerie – Zürich – Bahnhofstrasse 1 I I JUNOD – Horlogers-Joailliers – Lausanne – Plce St.-François 8 I MILLIAUD – Joaillier-Horloger – Paris 8ème – r. Royale 8 I

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Sound investments

Ricardo Franassovici

Music is my driving force. I can’t live a day without it; that’s why I built a career in the music industry in the 1970s, and that’s why I developed a passion for hi-fi.

In 1979, I turned this passion into a business.

At the time, the UK hi-fi press was dominated by no-frills British brands. I realised there was a new, international industry building audio equipment with the same no-compromise approach that Porsche applied to cars or Patek Philippe to watches. These new companies were combining the best component parts, innovative design and exemplary engineering to deliver sound that was closer to live music than anything that existed before.

I wanted to give UK-based music lovers access to the wealth of exotic sonic talent from beyond these shores, so I formed Absolute Sounds – a company that to this day remains dedicated to importing the finest audio equipment from the world’s most prestigious brands. Building bespoke, impeccably tailored systems is our passion, and the way we work is a little like a team of chefs: we sample the best audio ingredients from around the globe and bring them to a customer’s table in perfect combination, for a uniquely satisfying musical experience.

The appeal of high-end hi-fi is akin to any other upscale product group, like watches, cars or haute couture. There is pleasure and pride in owning an exclusive brand, revelling in the craftsmanship and supreme, unerring quality apparent in every finely honed detail.

If you own, let’s say, a Krell amplifier, you become part of an exclusive club, a select group defined by its love of music and appreciation

for audio engineering pushed to extremes in the pursuit of excellence – design without compromise, no less.

Fine timepieces are admired for their precision, innovation, quality and craftsmanship. High-end audio is similar; you’re buying something that’s not made in extravagant quantities, built with painstaking attention to detail to deliver uncompromised performance. The care that goes into these products is immense, with no more relationship to the mass-market brands than Breguet has to a Chinese-made quartz watch sold in a petrol station. It is the same motivation that drives the fine watch industry, raising standards and pushing boundaries.

Like mechanical watches, high-end audio is not necessarily about the latest digital technologies, although they do play a part.

Hi-res audio formats enable digital files to deliver better sound quality, and new proprietary technologies like Devialet’s ‘Analogue Digital Hybrid’ amplification set new performance benchmarks. And yet, it is often more about technologies devised decades ago, honed and perfected through boundarypushing design and exemplary engineering.

Physical media collections – vinyl records and CDs – offer a tactile, ritualistic pleasure that music stored on a computer can’t match, and while valve amplification predates solidstate amps by several decades, its elemental, analogue appeal endures. You can throw money at designer tech brands, but they don’t deliver the all-consuming sonic majesty of the finest performance-driven hi-fi – it’s a matter of heart and soul.

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Ricardo Franassovici is the founder and chairman of Absolute Sounds, the UK’s leading importer and distributor of high-performance audio equipment.

Most people accept that while a Ford and a Ferrari will both get you from A to B, the experience delivered by the two cars is incomparable. It’s the same with high-end hi-fi; the experience of buying, owning and using an elite audio system – the sheer exhilaration it delivers – is in an entirely different league to that of mass-market products. The clarity, the dynamic range, the extraordinary depth and scale; a sound so thrillingly realistic you’ll swear your favourite musicians have dropped by for a private performance. If you’re in love with music, trust me – nothing (that money can buy) beats the experience. absolutesounds.com

The

Got a question about timepieces?

Put it to AskMen.com’s Watch Snob. Be warned: you may not like what he has to say…

Do you rate Rado?

I’ve been reading your articles for a while now. I’m planning on buying my wife a Rado Centrix S Quartz. Primarily because we like the clean lines and simplicity of the watch and also it’s in my price range. I haven’t been able to find any articles of yours on Rado watches so far. I would like your opinion as a horological aficionado on both this particular watch and on the Rado company. Though I know very little about watches I have always been very interested in them and would sincerely appreciate your opinion.

Rado is one of those companies that makes perfectly nice watches — and if that sounds like damning with faint praise, then congratulations, you win the gold medal for insight. If the watch you mention floats your boat and/or that of your good lady wife, then go in peace, but the company is almost totally uninteresting to anyone who’s serious about watches.

The one reason to get a Rado is if you happen to find what they’ve done with extra-hard scratchresistant case alloys over the last few decades interesting. There is something very weird about running across a vintage Dia-Star for the first time — the watch Rado advertised as “scratchproof ” many, many years ago.

You still see these occasionally if you look through the trays at an antique watch seller’s — they’re a strange, pale gold colour and they can be distinguished from everything else in the tray by their peculiarly immaculate exteriors. Rado still makes several versions of this watch in the original “hardmetal”tungsten carbide alloy. Why don’t you get the wife one of those? You can tell

her that it’s as enduring as your love, or as hard as her faithless heart, depending on whether or not she’s been having a roll in the hay with the riding instructor, or the postman or whomever.

Should I buy in a boutique?

Dear Snob, I have a question regarding the actual purchasing process of watches. Is there any benefit to purchasing watches directly through watch boutiques? I believe that authorised retailers are only allowed to give a maximum of 15% discount. Is this correct? I would appreciate any advice in which cities tend to sell watches at the cheapest rate (considering tax back) and any advice in the actual bartering process for purchasing watches. I understand these watches are not cheap, but I do value a good deal and ensuring I can obtain my products at the best value possible.

First of all, I won’t reply to your questions of discounts and best cities in which to buy watches. Don’t waste my time with petty money questions, you cheapskate. You’re probably the kind of guy who drives across town to save a few pennies on a gallon of petrol.

The advantage of purchasing a watch through a brand’s boutique is that they might have a lovely assistant serve you a glass of champagne or, if you’re lucky, a single-malt Scotch, while they take your money. Or, if it’s an Omega boutique, you have the opportunity to spritz on some of their Omega aftershave and add a set of Omega cufflinks to your overpriced order. The fact of the matter is, it doesn’t matter where you

buy your watch, as long as the dealer is reputable and the watches authentic. I’ve had an excellent relationship with a small independent dealer in Gstaad for years. He doesn’t treat me like an idiot when I come in, gives me fair pricing and, most importantly, he knows his watches, which is more than I can say for the minimum-wage eye candy most brands have working in their department stores/franchises.

Citizen Blame I’ve been reading the Watch Snob for a long time and I don’t think I’ve ever seen Citizen mentioned even once. Now before you laugh at me and tell me it’s all cheap junk, it’s actually one of the most successful watch companies in the world, so it must be doing something right and its Chronomaster watches are very nice timepieces. Surely, you can’t write them off completely?

Would you care to wager? Or perhaps it’s better asked in your own common citizen’s parlance, “wanna bet?” Citizen is an aptly named company — bland, anonymous and ubiquitous, all traits that will ensure that I continue to write them off. Sure, it must be doing something right — making money. But it chose to take a path strewn with batteries and solar panels to success and, while I can’t begrudge the company for going where the money is, I don’t have to like it. And don’t bother pointing to its mechanical movements because there is nothing there worth even a glance. One thing I can say with almost certainty: This is the first and last time Citizen will be mentioned by me.

To read more from the Watch Snob, head to askmen.com - 44 -

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Hermès With a design based on a vintage Hermès dog collar (no, really) and featuring iconic ‘Clous de Paris’ pyramid-shaped studs, this iconic ‘secret’ watch sees the dial either concealed under a domed cover or discreetly revealed on opening. Available in two sizes with gold or steel pyramid studs – plus diamonds if you wish – it’s a timeless, elegant and highly covetable piece.

From £7, 500, uk.hermes.com

Lush luxe We spotlight new products from some of the world’s leading brands, showcasing the very latest fashion and lifestyle trends

Penelope Chilvers The menswear mainstay that is the Chelsea boot has been making a comeback on fashion show runways recently and for those looking to get involved, British designer Penelope Chilvers has a great range to choose from. From traditional Goodyear-welted leather Chelsea boots to the striking safari boots, complete with neon colours, this cult shoe designer’s collection of hand-made pieces are worth seeking out.

From £239, penelopechilvers.com

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Klaus Haapaniemi Finnish designer Klaus Haapaniemi has launched a new store in London, selling a dreamy, natureinfluenced collection of furniture, lighting, ceramics and fabrics, including this beautiful Trees Rug. Crafted from pure wool with a cotton underlining, it will make a striking addition to any home. £4,000, klaush.com

Nicola Pulvertaft British fine jeweller Nicola Pulvertaft, who designs exclusive collections for both Harvey Nichols and Holland & Holland, has launched a range inspired by the woodland creatures that roam an enchanted forest. Quirky, playful and quintessentially English, it also channels the key ‘animal’ trends of this season’s fashion collections.

Stallion-head bracelet with black and white diamonds from £4,600, powderhill.com

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T

his handsome piece is the result of a collaboration between two mighty manufacturers – Swiss luxur y watchmaker Parmigiani and French supercar brand Bugatti. Named the Aerolithe, in tribute to the groundbreaking 1930’s car of the same name, its fluid, streamlined look and characteristic lugs also take their design cues from the iconic motor. The buckle, too, has been designed to symbolise a Bugatti car grille

The watch features a flyback chronograph, which allows the wearer to stop, reset and restart the chronograph with a single push of the button. The elegant, slender titanium and white gold case is perfectly balanced by the deep blue dial and blue calfskin Hermes leather strap, while the Bugatti logo is subtle enough not to interfere with the overall aesthetic.

A unique watch that could well become a collector’s item. parmigiani.ch

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-- sty style le aadv dviiccee --

Getting shirty It’s all about the cloth, the cut and the silhouette for the finest shirts you can buy Eton Shirts Sebastian Dollinger, creative director, on current shirt trends “This season is all about the devil in the detail, allowing the wearer to dress for a more traditional business look but with a modern twist. One of my favourite styles is using small prints and micro patterns to add interest and individualism to conventional tailoring. The thinking here is to subtly mix patterns by taking a paisley print tie and a sophisticated floral-shaped dot pattern in a rich blue poplin shirt which, combined with a sharp business suit, instantly identifies the wearer as a sophisticated dresser.

My cloth choice is a poplin fabric which, to a great extent, has shaped the modern shirt.

The fabric’s even surface and tight binding gives peerlessly sharp patterns with a timeless feel. The great thing about our shirts is that we maintain control of every stage in production – from the selection of cotton and spinning to weaving and finishing. The result is an exclusive, high-performance fabric that stays smooth all day. And, by wielding best-in-class design and innovative sewing techniques, our Red Ribbon collection constantly refines and reinvents the modern business shirt.

I believe that those gentlemen who take time and pride in what they wear will appreciate the intricate details in our fabrics, such as fil coupé and micro dobby, and also the precision in our styles, including contrasting button thread or passpoal fabrics running down the length of the placket in a selection of different fabrics.

I think it’s important to have a choice of fabrics, patterns and construction of the garments in order to be able to create a strong masculine silhouette, whether that’s with softly tailored shirts or crisp business shirts. Lastly, everyone investing in a new shirt should look for one with a fit and a precise collar that frames and emphasises the face, while enhancing the silhouette of the wearer.” etonshirts.com

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Hilditch & Key Chris Sedgwick, buyer, on investing in quality “The financial advantages of investing in quality rather than quantity when it comes to purchasing your shirts are pretty straightforward. Shirts by the traditional manufacturers that still exist on Jermyn Street, where it all began, focus on the key components, which are the highest quality fabrics and the perfect shape and structure that will reward the wearer with many years of style, comfort and durability.

On the flipside, shirts on the high street are poorly made in extremely cheap fabrics to satisfy consumer demand for ‘throwaway fashion’ and usually, as would be expected, are only fit for the bin in a matter of months.

Despite being cheaper, you will end up paying more money in the long run for the high turnover of bargain buys. Hilditch & Key use all the traditional skills of Jermyn Street shirtmaking and pay very careful attention to every detail.

Only the finest fabrics and patterns are used in its manufacture, including a number of designs exclusive to the Hilditch & Key collection.

To achieve the maximum comfort, durability and elegant appearance, the make-up includes a split yoke cut on the bias, single needle

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stitching with the maximum number of stitches per centimetre, a two-piece collar with removable bones, real shell buttons, stripes matched on the yoke, shoulder, gauntlet, front and back collar, and on the pocket. It’s a long shirt and is reinforced at the base of the side seam with a neat gusset. This is why Hilditch & Key is so desirable among those in the know, who ultimately want to receive the best quality shirts that will stand the test of time.” hilditchandkey.co.uk

etonshirts.com – facebook.com/etonofsweden

E TO N B R A N D S TO R E 5 3 s o u t h m o lt o n s t r e e t | l o n d o n

- D i v i n g watc h es -

Going A diving watch is hugely over-engineered for its typical wearer’s needs, but that’s exactly the appeal, says Alex Doak

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For experimental dives without experiments.

DNV GL (formerly Germanischer Lloyd, Hamburg) confirms and certifies the pressure resistance of the EZM 6 up to a diving depth of 1,000 m, along with its temperature resistance and functioning in accordance with the European diving equipment standards EN250 and EN14143.

Diving chronograph U1000 B (EZM 6), ø 44 mm. Exclusive special limited edition for professional underwater use, available only until 31.12.14. Case, crown and push-pieces made of high-strength, seawater-resistant German submarine steel. Sinn calibre SZ 02 with a 60-second scale for the stopwatch minute. Ar-dehumidifying technology, ensuring greater functional reliability and condensation protection. Functionally reliable from - 45°C to + 80°C and to a nominal pressure of 100 bar (= 1,000 m diving depth). Captive diver’s bezel with patented guard to prevent accidental misadjustment. Matt-blue electroplated dial with luminous indices and hands.

Case with TEGIMENT technology. Diving weight of 135 g. Comes with blue silicone and grey textile strap. True depth for professionals.

Im Füldchen 5 - 7 · 60489 Frankfurt /Main · Telefon +49 (0) 69 97 84 14 200 · www.sinn.de · vertrieb@sinn.de

- D i v i n g watc h es -

“Dive watches came into prominence at the height of wristwatch development in the 1960s,” says Heaton, “so the style, which marries craftsmanship and mechanical prowess with rugged purposefulness, really appeals from an aesthetic point of view.”

But while the legends live on, we are currently living in the age of the luxurious diving watch. It’s clearly in response to the boom in mechanical watches over the past ten years and every brand’s resultant need to expand their offering, but nevertheless it does seem odd seeing utilitarian diving watches like Girard-Perregaux’s Sea Hawk bearing a price tag of £7,950, or Audemars Piguet’s £17,400 Royal Oak Offshore Diver Ceramic, or even IWC’s Aquatimer perpetual calendar, going for a cool £42,000.

We are living in the age of the luxurious diving watch

IWC Aquatimer

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Hublot Oceanographic 4000

While it still costs £6,150, Cartier is one of the few dapper brands taking the plunge in as straightforward a manner as it can muster.

A ‘true divers’ watch’, this year’s new Calibre Diver even bears the ISO standard, 6425, which demands at least 100m water resistance, the ability to time dives and legibility in the dark from a distance of 25cm.

“A big priority this year at Cartier has been a push towards more masculine watchmaking,” reveals Cartier UK’s MD Laurent Feniou.

“We’re extremely proud of the Diver because of its combination of manly lifestyles – with this watch we can accompany the man on the beach, wearing jeans, in the office…”

Which brings us back to Heaton’s alpha-, or even beta-male justification for a watch that barely sees the beach, let alone a regulator.

“Let’s face it, dive watches are simple creatures and the specs of the original ones from the 1950s would still do fine today,” he says. “But watchmakers are tinkerers, hence the absurd depth ratings of Hublot’s Oceanographic 4000 for example – 100m would suffice for 99% of recreational divers (if they even wore a watch).

“But again, it’s a differentiator and a talking point at the water cooler on Monday morning.”

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Cartier has been pushing towards more masculine watchmaking

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- D i v i n g watc h es -

Squale Master

New(ish) e-tailer, Page & Cooper has opened up a plethora of niche collector brands to the UK market recently – most significantly Glycine, Autodromo and this, the cult ItaloSwiss diving brand Squale, founded in the 1960s. These fantastically priced water babies still have that retro vibe going on – especially the Master, which features a bespoke Soprod-modified ETA 2892 calibre, with power reserve and perlage decoration visible through the reinforced sapphire caseback. £1,505, pageandcooper.com

Take the plunge Five key diving watches rocking our boat right now

Rolex DeepSea Sea-Dweller D-Blue

Commemorating James Cameron’s record-breaking 10,908m descent to the deepest part of the Mariana Trench in 2012 is this new blue-dial is a version of Rolex’s DeepSea – a hardcore version of the Sea-Dweller, in turn a hardcore version of the Submariner developed in the 1960s that invented the helium escape valve in the process, for industrial divers who spend days on end in helium-saturated bathyscaphes. While its wearer would expire far sooner, this wrist-born bathyscaphe is good all the way down to 3,900m. £6,900, rolex.com

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- M oto r i n g-

Words – Adam Hay-Nicholls

Ever wished you’d been a Formula 1 driver? You still can, today, by lunchtime

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T

he road to becoming a grand prix driver is lined with potholes big enough to swallow those lightweight, thunderous racing cars. There are 22 seats available on the Formula One grid and to earn one you need huge amounts of talent, money, luck, and quite often a blood relative who’s already been there before you. You also need to be a teenager. If you’re over 25 you’ve had it.

I fail to tick any of those boxes but the dream is still attainable, if only for a day.

I first got into F1 in 1993, the year Damon Hill started winning races, and here I am strapped tightly into a car from that same championship season. It’s a Footwork that had originally been raced by Japanese hero and certified madman Aguri Suzuki. Behind me is a 600bhp donor engine, which kicks into life as I’m bump-started by a quad bike and roll onto the Three Sisters race track. I slowly release the clutch and sink the throttle as the Footwork’s splutter turns into a roar and my brain desperately clings to everything I’d been taught that morning.

Three Sisters, near Wigan, is more used to hosting national go-kart races than F1 cars.

It’s very short and only has eight turns, which is good because you can’t get lost. It’s also narrow, but with few run-off areas and threatening barriers. Not ideal when you have an insanely fast, valuable and tricky car to tame, plus a queue of other enthusiasts waiting for you to bring the car home in perfect working order.

However, one is eased from the shallow end into the deep by The Racing School.

By starting the training at the wheel of an Alfa Romeo Giulietta hatchback, one learns the circuit’s racing lines in a car that’s pretty normal and undaunting. Then you get to sample some powerful thoroughbreds, an Aston Martin V8 Vantage and a Ferrari 360 Modena, which pack 380 and 400bhp respectively. Both are capable of over 180mph, not that I ever keep my eyes off the road to look at the speedo during my ten laps in each. Each time you’re sat alongside an instructor, talking you through the lines and where to brake, and giving you lots of encouragement.

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An instructor talks you through the lines - where to brake and giving encouragement

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From here you go down in power but dramatically down in weight too, to experience the rather alien sensation of being in a singleseater – and thus on your own. The junior car weighs in at 600kg, and with a 115bhp Zetec engine reaches 60 in 4.8 seconds. Sat less than an inch off the ground, legs fully outstretched, and with suspension as stiff as rigor mortis it feels much faster. It looks like a pussycat compared to what’s coming next, though. The Racing School has two Formula 3 cars from the 1980s here that look more aggressive than their modern counterparts, more like IndyCars.

There’s a step up in power; 170bhp. On slick tyres, we’re warned, this could be more of a handful than the F1 car. However, it wasn’t as scary as it first looked, even if the ride meant my eyeballs were rolling around like the dials on a fruit machine. At the end of the straights I was hitting the rev limiter, indicating I was getting the power down nice and early.

And so to the main course: driving ten laps in a car that once shared the track with Michael Schumacher’s Benetton, Alain Prost’s Williams and Ayrton Senna’s McLaren. If the progression of power and speed had been gentle till now the graph suddenly takes a sharp upward spike.

A power-to-weight ratio unlike anything this side of a Bugatti Veyron.

My eyeballs were rolling like the dials on a fruit machine

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Choice. Unlimited.

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Timepieces and accessories including phone and tablet* covers, computer mice, cufflinks and calendars.

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Not that I’m scared. I’m excited and impatient to get going. Being the first out means I’ll be on cold tyres, which require a couple of cautious laps to warm up. I’ve been outfitted with treaded tyres, rather than slicks, to speed up the process. I’m instructed to start in second gear, work up to fourth and leave it there, the Judd-engine’s torque pulling away even at low revs and the danger of wheel-spin neutered.

The throttle is sensitive, with each inch worth about 200bhp. The noise is part opera, part punk rock – beautiful yet angry. Around lowspeed corners the car feels cumbersome and heavy, but once the back-straight at this circuit opens up and you can confidently nail the gas, the sensation is like that of a missile and your

brain pops and whizzes as it tries to calibrate just how quickly the next turn is arriving. After this I will never watch a grand prix again in the same way. How they get their braking points exactly right, lap after lap, under these forces is superhuman.

Those ten laps go quickly. I’m always playing the last lap over in my mind, and need to snap the attention back to the present so as not to miss a critical braking point. It’s like an out of body experience. The GoPro mounted to the roll hoop means you can play that angle over and over again when you get home.

Ten laps over, but it’s a lifetime’s worth of longing that’s complete; finally experiencing what it’s like to be a Formula 1 driver, if only

To book the ultimate driving experience call 01942 270230 or visit racing-school.co.uk

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for a day. The rush of adrenalin and the thrill of control feel like nothing this side of piloting a fighter jet. Another strange satisfaction is that, in returning the car with all the wheels still attached, I managed to do what Aguri Suzuki rarely did.

The Formula 1 Experience, from suburban hatch to F1 beast, costs £1,599. Although I and all the other drivers on our day at The Racing School were clearly there to live out our childhood dreams, kids can actually light the spark here to become F1 drivers of the future. The Racing School, which also operates at former grand prix tracks Donington and Brands Hatch, can offer wannabe racers as young as 11 the chance to drive a supercar from £89. You might have missed your chance to be a world champion, but you can still play a part in bringing through the next generation.

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Porsche power Take Germany’s finest supercar for a spin around Silverstone Those looking for thrills (but definitely not spills) in a Porsche driving experience should check out the motoring marque’s Silverstone offering.

This brilliant gift experience entitles the recipient to a choice of 90-minute track drives behind the wheel of either the Boxster, Cayman, 911, Panamera, Cayenne or Macan.

Alternatively, try the Taste of Porsche Experience, a new, limitededition experience which is available from January to March 2015 and gives you the following tasters: 20 minutes driving the latest 911 Carrera (with one-to-one instruction) 20 minutes driving the new Cayman GTS A passenger ride in a Panamera GTS (for you and your guest) An off-road demonstration in the Cayenne (for you and your guest) A three-course lunch for two in the Porsche restaurant.

Prices for these experiences start at a very reasonable £150, and early booking is recommended. Call 01327 855911. porsche.co.uk/experience

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Get a feeling for the Porsche experience out on the race track

Master a classic, rally-prepared Porsche 911 on an ice-covered lake in northern Sweden. With meticulously prepared lake circuits, lined by cushioned snow banks and world-class instruction, we deliver the ultimate ice driving experience for all abilities.

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WWW.SUMMITRETREATS.COM | INFO@SUMMITRETREATS.COM | +44(0)117 985 6966

© Marc Berenguer

Unrivalled alpine luxury, tailored to you.

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Words – Scott Manson and Alex Doak

bon ski!

Chamonix, Val d’Isère and Courchevel – three of France’s most glamorous ski resorts – offer the discerning skier fabulous pistes, luxury accommodation and fine dining

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F

rance is a skier’s paradise.

With more than 8,000km of pistes, it is one of the largest winter destinations in the world, and one of the most popular thanks to its crisp mountain air, glorious sunny scenery, perfect powder and, yes, a long-established high-end scene.

It is on the French-Italian border that the French Alps region offers the broadest range of skiing opportunities anywhere in Europe beyond the Vosges, the Jura, the Massif Central and the Pyrenees. Here, you have a vast choice of resorts and, on account of the 4,000m-plus altitude, the most reliable snow conditions.

Every powder-hound should consider a trip to Les Trois Vallées, whose Courchevel, Val Thorens and Les Menuires resorts comprise the world’s largest ski area accessible with a single pass. With 183 ski lifts and 335 pistes, the area gives skiers access to more than 600 km of slopes – more than enough for even the most demanding of skiers. With almost 2,000 snow cannons, the area is also able to guarantee that a fair number of pistes will be open, even if the snow does not fall in abundance.

Further north, towards Geneva, the charming duo of mountain towns – Megève and Chamonix – are worthy of your attention, both complemented by winter-white vistas of the Haute-Savoie department of the Rhône-Alpes and dominated by the jewel in the Alps’ crown, Mont-Blanc.

Chamonix Nestled beneath Mont Blanc’s looming 4,810m bulk in the Haute-Savoie, Chamonix has long been popular with accomplished skiers and snowboarders – its extensive, steep terrain offering a wide range of challenges. For less confident intermediates, quieter pistes and enjoyable cruising can be found at the Balme area above Le Tour.

Considered France’s ‘original ski destination’, Cham’ fosters an old-school feel of exclusivity, but also a tangible bonhomie, with some sublime dining destinations to visit, such as Le Sarpe, Hotel Eden and La Cabane.

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Courchevel This fabulous resort offers 150km of alpine ski runs served by 58 lifts, enabling you to make the most of your days on the slopes. If you are a beginner, fun ‘ZEN’ areas have been specially created for you to ski in complete safety, while the 19 green and 35 blue runs will help you get to grips with the slope. For more experienced skiers, 34 red and eight black runs enable you to put your technique and skills to the test in some of the challenging conditions in the Three Valleys, with the black runs towards Le Praz being particularly recommended. Dining options are similarly strong, including the mountain-based Soucoupe, which offers hearty food served in a cosy space with a roaring log fire. In the resort itself, the Michelin-starred Chabichou is a true gastronomic treat.

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Val d’Isère Val’s slopes have always been the setting for great sporting achievements, such as the Winter Olympics, Criterium de la Première Neige and the World Alpine Ski Championships.

Its 300km of slopes (best suited to intermediate and advanced skiers), fabulous freeriding possibilities, snowpark, high altitude and outstanding selection of accommodation, bars and restaurants have made it a firm favourite with winter sports enthusiasts. For on-slope partying, don’t miss the DJ-led knees-up at the Folie Douce, handily located next to La Fruitière, a great, traditional restaurant serving Savoyard specialities. In the resort itself, get your reservation in early for La Grande Ourse – regarded by many as Val’s finest restaurant, which offers a menu that includes the likes of lobster ravioli, duck foie gras and grilled Dover sole.

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Alpine properties so good, you’ll find it hard to hit the slopes

Summit Retreats One of the UK’s leading luxury boutique ski agencies, Summit Retreats offer truly out-of-this world accommodation options, with some of its most quirky chalets offering everything from golf courses to ice rinks, learning the art of wood chopping to indoor archery ranges, and even fully equipped casinos and nightclubs. Chalet Husky in Val d’Isère, for example, includes an indoor climbing wall, atrium garden, swimming pool, sauna and hammam, all set in a beautiful contemporary property that sleeps 14 people. Alternatively, head to nearby Tignes to stay in Chalet Quezac, owned by renowned French free skier and rally driver Guerlain Chicherit. Sleeping 12, it offers unique art throughout, a helipad, 3D TV in every room and a sleek billiard table that converts to a table tennis table. Over in Courchevel, luxury seekers should check out Chalet Le Petit Palais, a ski-in ski-out property sleeping 14 that includes a cinema, nightclub and 14m swimming pool. summitretreats.com

WWW.SUMMITRETREATS.COM | INFO@SUMMITRETREATS.COM | +44(0)117 985 6966

Summit_retreats_advert_v2_300x240mm.indd 1

© Marc Berenguer

Unrivalled alpine luxury, tailored to you.

05/09/2014 15:05

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Canada

I

alaska

I

T h e h i m a l aya s

I

Russia

I

GReenland

I

iCeland

“Skiing crowded pistes will never seem good enough again.”

Tom RobbinS

I

The obSeRveR

E L E VAT E YOUR EXPERIENCE +44 (0)20 3059 8787 www.EAheliskiing.com james@eaheli.com l Call or email to order our 55 page broChure

Hotel La Sivolière Long regarded as one of Courchevel’s premier hotels, this remained a well-kept secret among in-the-know ski fans for many years. A wholesale revamp in 2010, though, took this stunning destination to a new level and caught the imagination of those guests who value chic design as much as they do luxury comfort and piste accessibility. Early booking is advised for this hotel, with visitors rewarded by a place that combines a typical Savoy build, where cosy, rustic touches sit harmoniously next to bold contemporary lines and custom-made designer furniture.

The 24 rooms, 11 suites and two duplex apartments offer a view of the village, the slopes or the forest, plus there’s a swimming pool, jacuzzi and gym on hand to help ease yourself into the evening after a thrilling day spent in the world’s largest ski area. hotel-la-sivoliere.com

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Dynamic Lives A luxury travel specialist offering tailor-made trips to Chamonix and Verbier, Dynamic Lives can arrange everything the thrill-seeker could want – from premium helicopter charters around Mont Blanc to high octane glacier skiing, spa experiences and fine dining at the best restaurants. An exceptional concierge service, coupled with an experienced in-resort ground team, ensures that your stay will be sophisticated, seamless and truly relaxing.

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Of particular note this year is Chamonix’s Les Sommets D’Argentiere, a unique hamlet of purpose-built luxury accommodation comprising four chalets that can sleep between eight and 38 guests.

Each enjoys spectacular views, particularly from the panoramic hot tubs set on private terraces, plus underground parking, games room, wine cellar and gym. It’s close to the centre of Argentiere, next to the famous Grands Montets ski area, and is also well located for Chamonix’s many other iconic ski zones. dynamiclives.com

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Words – Bob Lefsetz and Ken Kessler

changing times Hadrian / Shutterstock.com

Does the Apple Watch sound the death knell for traditional timepieces? Two experts go head to head to debate the impact of wearable technology

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yes

Bob Lefsetz, a renowned music industry analyst and critic, and author of the popular email newsletter and blog, the Lefsetz Letter, says the watch world is about to change forever

It’s overpriced.

It doesn’t do anything.

It’s a me-too product.

I don’t need it.

I don’t want it.

Sound familiar?

That’s exactly what we heard about the iPod back in 2001. And that went on to change music forever. You overpaid, the price came down, you replaced your original, you owned multiple iterations and you never played your CDs again.

I find the Apple Watch backlash hysterical.

It’s as if we’ve got to repeat the movie endlessly, and unlike in Groundhog Day, never learning our lesson. Meanwhile, the press echoes our concerns and the truth doesn’t out.

Bottom line: wearables are here to stay. I go nowhere without my Fitbit. Soon, I’ll replace it with an Apple Watch.

There goes my Rolex! Yup, the concept of wristwatch as jewellery is about to go out the window, that is if the only thing the watch does is tell the time. Switzerland should be very afraid. Because youngsters have rejected it, high-priced timepieces cater to the elder classes and young people find them unnecessary.

But young people need to know the time.

And for this they remove their mobile devices from their pockets in excess of 100 times a day. You mean you don’t want to eliminate this behaviour?

And they’re not only looking for the time.

They want to read their messages, whether they be e-mail, texts, iMessages or... How convenient would it be to have all that information just a glance away?

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Furthermore, applications unknown are on the horizon. What made the iPhone so great were the apps. As will be the case with the Apple Watch. It’s gonna do stuff you can’t contemplate.

Because you’re not a techie, you can’t see the future. But you do want to be a member of the group.

So am I guaranteeing the Apple Watch will be a success? No, although I think it will be. I find it especially interesting that it only works with the iPhone for now; this is what boosted Apple to begin with – the ecosystem. Sure, you could eventually buy your MP3s from Amazon, but why would you when iTunes featured seamless integration? Once again, Apple is going for a monopoly, and if that word scares you, you haven’t read Peter Thiel’s recent screed; you probably have no idea who Peter Thiel even is.

So it comes with the ability to monitor your health, and to read and respond to your messages. The Apple Watch will do so much more, just wait and see.

So ignore the blowback. Ignore the press ginning up an uneducated story. Wearable devices are the next front in computing.

Oh, that’s right, you didn’t need a computer either. Until everybody was on AOL and you wanted to play.

It’s always about the killer app. Hardware is just a gateway to software. And it’s the integration of the two that ends up winning.

Which is how Apple got to its vaunted position to begin with.

Sure, Samsung and Motorola can make watches. But they’re ugly and hard to use. The Apple Watch improves upon them the same way the iPod improved upon the Rio and the NOMAD. You don’t always have to create to break the model, sometimes redefining is just fine.

So who cares if Android ultimately competes?

Who cares if Luddites don’t see a need? Who cares if you can buy a digital wristwatch for much less?

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You should care that you live in an era where educated people are harnessing technology to make your life easier. Sure, they’re getting rich along the way, but you’re the one who’s paying them.

Because you need to have it. The same way you needed that Beatles album. You don’t want to be left out, you want to be a member of the club. And before long, you can’t live without it.

As for battery life... Let me see, my old Nokia lasted weeks and my smartphones just make it through the day. Am I really that worried that I’ve got to plug my watch in every night?

Pull back the lens. We’re at the advent of a whole new paradigm. One in which all our information is just a glance away and we’re monitoring our systems 24/7. Yup, your car’s computer will tell you not only your mileage, but how far you can go until empty. Don’t you want to know the same thing about your body?

Lasting values crafted by masters.

The name “Meister” has stood for classic watchmaking at Junghans since 1936. The Meister watches of today follow in this tradition, for they are a result of both passion for precision and close attention to quality. Choosing a Junghans Meister demonstrates appreciation for these values and for beautiful watchmaking – like our classic Meister, the Meister Calendar.

www.junghans.co.uk · info@thebluecompanylondon.co.uk

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no

Watch expert Ken Kessler believes the smart watch is a toy that won’t trouble the prestige watch industry

There he was, larger than life: self-appointed gadget guru Stephen Fry – who seems to have an unholy lust for all things Apple – telling viewers of BBC’s Click! that anyone still using a conventional watch is some sort of loser. Few, perhaps, are aware of Fry’s totally non-critical view of the Apple world, which borders on the perverse, so he would say that. A pity he doesn’t understand the breadth and depth of watch culture.

There’s no reason, of course, for either Fry or any other champion of smartwatches to know that wristwatches have become the jewellery of choice for men, a social statement that happens to serve a function. They, too, are portable wealth, so if you ever find some toe-rag picked your pocket while you’re on holiday, a decent watch can be pawned for a ticket home. So what’s the resale value of a piece of plastic crap?

Apple’s phone is only a threat to the conventional watch in a sector of society that doesn’t even wear watches: Generation Z, or whatever you call semi-literate slackers who think Coldplay are better than the Beatles and equate Twitter with literature. I can’t imagine Hublot or Rolex or Omega – or even humble Swatch – losing a sale to Apple. If anything the smart money (no pun intended) is on many customers wearing both.

A watch only tells the time (or date and other functions if you’re a complications buyer) and probably not as well as one’s iPhone or even microwave oven. But sometimes, that’s enough when the item happens to be a work of art, or a treasure, or even a fashion statement.

Smartwatches look like what they are: toys that will soon elicit boredom.

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Fry probably doesn’t care that the mechanical watch not only survived the juggernaut that was quartz, but it has been – since the 1970s – elevated to a level of prestige and pride of ownership that never existed before. Fry and the like dismissing the wristwatch is about as insightful and arrogant as some Kindle-fetishist writing off books and newspapers. The latter may happen one day, but I’ve yet to get on the tube and not see half the occupants reading a physical newspaper.

Smartwatches are certainly this year’s thing.

As much as gadget junkies like to remind us that we didn’t even know we needed the iPad or the computer – both of which do serve practical purposes – the smartwatch is not in the same league. It recalls an old joke, a politically incorrect barb from the era where comedians used to joke about the Japanese miniaturising, well, everything.

Sayeth the stand-up comic: “The Japanese corporation realised it had gone too far when one of its geniuses miniaturised a vibrator.”

Apple, like Sony before it, has form when it comes to cooking up new toys that we didn’t know we needed, but its earlier devices had justifiable purpose and usability. The iPod, though its sound is near-execrable, is an ergonomic masterpiece. The Mac Air is portable computing with panache (as well as an enabler for all of those hipsters in Shoreditch who sit around cafés with their skinny lattes, pretending to be writers).

Yes, even an iPhone is big enough to be perfectly usable for texting or – and this is not something I would do in preference to a 60-inch LCD – watching TV shows. But that’s the entire point. The size reduction necessary to make a smartwatch wearable robs it of most of its functionality. And voice activation? Gimme a break. You want to stand around enunciating to your wrist?

You want bullet points to shut up the Apple Watch evangelists?

Battery life: if you think the iPhone sucks, imagine what it will be like with Bluetooth on at all times, while driving headphones.

Sound: any speaker in a package that size has to be minuscule and thus unlistenable.

Enter headphones, the cable running up your sleeve. No, thanks.

Screen size: really? You’re going to watch Game of Thrones on that?

Texting: lucky you – you have fingers the diameter of a cocktail stick.

Portability: you still need to carry a phone.

Sheesh.

Reliability: everything seems to be accessed through the crown, acting as a push-button.

Can’t wait to see how long that lasts.

I have no doubt that every technology hack is currently in need of hourly changes of underwear, so excited are they about this new toy. But ‘smart’ watch? An ironic name for a pretty dumb idea.

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Words – Peter Dean

World of wine

With Christmas fast approaching, thoughts turn to the fine wines that you should be laying down for the festive period. Here, we highlight some of the best, and more unusual, options that should form the backbone of every cellar during the holiday period

Expert selection

One of the best things about buying wine from a decent wine merchant is the many and varied tasting invites you receive, with the hope that after sipping 100 or so wines – and spitting out one or two – you may well end up buying a stack of cases.

It works.The first I attended was the legendary 2005 Burgundy. Now I can feel quite smug that I have 20 cases in storage of one of the finest vintages known to man. Even if I were to sell, I would have made a small fortune. But of that there’s no chance. My corkscrew will have the pleasure of deflowering every beautiful bottle.

A recent tasting, courtesy of Bordeaux Index, showcased a healthy array of wines from Rioja, Priorat, Ribera del Duero, Rueda, Toro and Galicia, all accompanied by a Spaniard who hastily sliced an entire leg of jamon until he hit bone. The following are some of my discoveries from the evening.

The best of Bordeaux Index’s Spain and Portugal tasting Valbuena – Vega Sicilia, 2004 From the stable that brings you Unico, one of Spain’s greatest wines of the past 150 years, this Ribera del Duero is a mix of mainly tempranillo and merlot and is really hedonistic. A mediumbodied, spicy wine that smacks of cherry, coffee and earth. At eight years old it’s just a baby, but will go for another 20 years and chalks in at about half the price of Unico.

Approx £100 a bottle Mas la Mola, 2007 This current vintage is a mix of carignan and grenache that has spent 18 months in the barrel.

A Priorat, it has tannic structure but is less overpowering and oaky than the riojas. The red fruit is almost Barolo-like in that it has overtones of tar and rose, but is much more robust. £40 a bottle Contino Vina del Olivo, 2007 One of the best riojas in Spain and the flagship from the Contino vineyard, it’s a mix of 88% tempranillo and graciano. A full, rich, fruity wine that has a solid backbone of 36 months in oak. £50-60 a bottle All available from bordeauxindex.com

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Investment potential

Wine investments hit a bit of a rock in 2012 as the market underwent a 30% correction. With investment portfolios rising, however, there are enough encouraging signs that 2012 was a cork in a storm.Wine expert Robert Parker’s re-scoring of the Bordeaux 2010 vintage – an adjustment that takes place two years after the wines were first tasted – provides a more accurate picture of what the wines are actually like.Ten wines received Parker’s elusive perfect score of 100 and prices shot up, with some doubling their money overnight.

Pape Clement 2010 One of my wine suppliers sold 40 cases of this sublime Graves 30 minutes after the scores came out and the prices have been rising steadily since.

Because 2010 is an ‘historic’ vintage (one of the best ever recorded) that will keep for 40 years and is a diminishing commodity, this is a solid banker. £125 a bottle, frw.co.uk Chateau Latour 2010 Some may argue that there is nowhere for the wine to go, price-wise. Wrong. This is arguably one of the best wines ever made – every wine critic in the world gave it maximum points and Latour’s president apparently challenged Parker that the 100 points didn’t accurately reflect how good it was. With the 1961 100-pointer now fetching £2,500 for a damaged bottle, this is one for inheritance purposes, but leave it in a bonded warehouse of some repute. Do not store this one in the garage. Remember, wine doesn’t attract capital gains tax. If you can afford to drink it, however, then I salute you. £1,000+ a bottle, farrvintners.com

Celebrity wines

Five years after buying the 150-acre Chateau Miraval estate in Provence for $60m plus some loose change, Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie are officially winemakers, and good ones at that. The release of their 2012 Miraval Rosé – toppy price tag notwithstanding – has been well received. Clearly, once you have your own perfume label, human rights cause and string of mansions, getting into the wine business is a natural step for many stars. Gerard Depardieu has gone so far as to change the work status in his passport from actor to winemaker and, of course, the evergreen Cliff Richard produces award-winning wine from his Portuguese estate. Here, then, is a selection of my favourite celebrity tipples…

Chateau Miraval, Cotes de Provence Rosé, 2012 The first 6,000-bottle release of Brangelina’s rosé sold out in six hours, making it the must-have label on your table in Malibu. It’s a serious rosé that has plenty of wild strawberry and raspberry confectionery on the palate, plus a hearty acidic undertow that comes from the grenache grape. A match made in heaven with sushi or a salad niçoise. £17.29 a bottle, thedrinkshop.com Rubicon, Niebaum-Coppola, 2005 Having reunited the lands of the famed Inglenook winery, Francis Ford Coppola has recently re-named his Rubicon winery to Inglenook. This is his top wine, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon from vines first planted on the estate in 1882.

If you can find any of the 2001 at auction snap it up, but there are still a few bottles of this delicious 2005 fruit bomb on the open market. £100 a bottle, frw.co.uk Lumiere, Gerard Depardieu, 2003 One wouldn’t expect fine wine to flow from a brusque man who downs a minimum of three bottles a day and infamously relieved himself on the floor of an aircraft. But Depardieu does make very good international wines (this from Morocco) in the style you would expect – quirky, hearty wines that are interesting and highly individual. £23.50 a bottle, eminentwines.com

Chateau Beausejour (Duffau Lagarrosse) 2010 The winemaking team of Nicolas Thienpont and Stephane Derenoncourt have been making waves in Saint-Emilion. The 1990 and the 2009 both scored 100 Parker points and the prices have risen steadily, just as surely as connoisseurs have been enjoying this sumptuous cab sauvignon/merlot blend. The 1990 will now set you back £650 a bottle so this, like the Pape Clement, represents value with real potential. £233 a bottle, bordeauxindex.com

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A cellar of note

While most retailers are caving in to the pressures of online, it ‘s refreshing to see the Perfect Cellar move from online wine sales to retail. Set in London’s fashionable Farringdon, Perfect Cellar is signing up exclusive deals with boutique wine producers so that clients can build up an interesting collection of garage labels from the world’s top regions. At the launch tasting, Eric Boissenot (consultant to 90% of the top Bordeaux chateaux) was showing his own label, Les Vimieres (Haut Medoc and Margaux), alongside other wine legends Jose Sanfins and Pascal Amoreau. Here are three of the stand-out wines from the tasting.

Helga Esteb / Shutterstock.com

Mas Amiel Vintage 1969 Maury’s reputation is for making sweet wines from the grenache grape and Mas Amiel’s flagship aged fortified wine will do that region no end of good.

It starts life off, unbelievably, in glass demijohns in the open sunshine, and is then transferred to oak barrels. I love all of Amiel’s range but this is otherworldly nectar – traditionally served with chocolate, but equally delicious on its own. £139 a bottle Nicolas Joly, Clos de la Coulee de Serrant, 2008 Savennieres was the wine choice of kings in Louis XI’s era and Joly sits in the throne of modern producers. One of the first biodynamic producers in the world, Joly’s expression of chenin blanc is a complex, dry wine that will age for decades, getting more golden and richer with each passing year. One of the reasons Coulee de Serrant is so famed is that it apparently can last a week after opening – giving off different characteristics day by day. Once opened it would be very hard to get to Friday. Enjoy with grilled lobster. £94.99 a bottle Chateau Chantelune, Margaux, 2005 Jose Sanfins, the general manager of Cantenac Brown, is behind this micro-label which, in the three vintages tasted – 05, 08, 09 – showed how superbly made they are and, crucially, what great value for money they offer. Try and get the 05 which, despite a firm grip was fruit-driven and surprisingly rounded, and a chance to taste what great things we have in store when this classic vintage really gets into its drinking window. £39.99 a bottle All available from theperfectcellar.com

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The perfect glass Georg Riedel, 10th generation glassmaker, on the right glass for the right drink ‘’The development of all Riedel grape varietalspecific wine glasses is shaped in tasting workshops by the world’s greatest palates. Wine lovers often judge a wine by the taste, colour and bouquet, but rarely do they consider the glass, the instrument to convey the wine’s message. Riedel was the first to recognise that one wine displayed completely different characteristics when served in different glasses. There was such a stark difference that even experienced connoisseurs were led to believe that they were tasting different wines.

Grape variety is a key factor in determining the style of wine and the relationship between the tannins, fruit, alcohol and acidity. Using this knowledge, we started to investigate further the complex role that the size and shape of a glass can play.

Riedel understands that every grape varietalspecific glass is built for a purpose and performs at its best with a specific type of wine, unlocking its most elusive characteristics. Our multi-awarded ‘O’ range collection - pioneered by my son Maximilian – encompasses a series of stemless wine tumblers, which are both beautiful and work as wine glasses for everyday use.

We also believe that appreciating and enjoying wine should not be dependent on how much you are able to afford. We aspire to create the best quality items at various price points and this can be seen with our newest range, the Veritas Series. What makes Veritas unique is the technique Riedel developed to produce the series – as a result they are the thinnest and lightest grape-specific machine-blown glasses ever produced.The series also combines old and new world styles for the first time, as well as a new shape for champagne – the Champagne Wine Glass – which was designed with a larger diameter rim to showcase the scent of the wine, taking champagne drinking away from the conventional flute style.’’ riedel.co.uk

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Words – Scott Manson

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Take

T

he world of watches is filled with mechanical masters, those watchmakers and designers who set the agenda and operate at the very limits of what is possible.

We highlight three such individuals and get the lowdown on their life and work.

Maximilian Büsser, MB&F

The startling pieces that emerge from the MB&F stable are a masterpiece of design, with a sticker price to match that of a top of the range Ferrari.

The company produces around 250 watches a year and sells every one of them. Indeed, so popular are they that collectors of certain models have to register on a waiting list to be in with a chance of owning a piece of history.

It’s telling that company founder Büsser doesn’t call them watches – they are ‘horological machines’ – with each release seeing him gather together experts in their field, hence the ‘& Friends’ tag, to collaborate on both the design and the movement that drives the watch. In the secretive world of watchmaking, this acknowledgement of artisans is both unusual and refreshing.

The results are boundary-pushing pieces such as the Horological Machine No 3, with its frog-eyed aesthetic, or the No 5, which channels the design style of sports cars of the 1970s. More recently, MB&F has even produced pieces that more closely resemble traditional watches – although still offering the highest levels of build spec – such as the Legacy machines, while also neatly nodding to high-end pocket watches of a century ago. With the latter, the finishing is overseen by Kari Voutilainen, who is considered one of the greatest movement artists in the world.

For Büsser, his brand’s success, and the worldwide acclaim for his machines, represents the realisation of a childhood dream.

“When I was young I was very lonely and dreamed of having friends. In fact, the ‘& Friends’ name came from this situation,” he explains.

“I loved to sketch and doodled cars my whole childhood. If you look at my HM5 model you can see that influence – it’s a holistic tribute to car manufacturing.”

Büsser completed a degree in microtechnology – “I was terrible at it, though”– and was set to join Procter & Gamble before a chance meeting with someone from watch brand Jaeger-LeCoultre.

He was convinced to join a company that was close to bankruptcy – a hangover from the 1970s ‘quartz crisis’that saw premium mechanical watch brands’sales slump as cheap quartz-driven watches became more popular.

“What I found at JLC was a sort of surrogate father and family. I adored the job and worked hard to make it a success,” he says.

Today, Jaeger-LeCoultre is regarded as one of the finest and most successful watch brands on the planet, thanks in part to the efforts of Max and his team He was then head-hunted by Harry Winston Rare Timepieces and appointed MD at the unprecedented age of 31. The company was also in the doldrums but, seven years after Büsser joined, the company had grown from $8m in annual sales to $80m, thanks to his innovative designs and limited editions, such as the groundbreaking Opus series of watches.

“I thought they were insane to appoint me at that age,” he says. “But I worked night and day to save the company with an eight-person team and picked up a stress-related ulcer along the way.”

The problem though, was that despite a big salary and industry acclaim, Busser felt strangely unfulfilled.

“I just wasn’t enjoying it. I felt bad about complaining as I was making a lot of money, and I came from a family of modest means,” he says. “My dad passed away in 2001 and I realised, a year later, that I didn’t really know who he was or whether he had any regrets.That got me thinking about whether I would have any regrets if I passed away now.”

The damascene moment came when Büsser figured out that his role had become that of a marketer, rather than a creator. He was someone who sold products – albeit luxury ones – based on focus group findings, rather than following his muse.

“My idea of great design is something that comes from being totally selfish – a rage against the machine, or a rebel yell, if you will.That just wasn’t possible in the Harry Winston environment.

My parents were honest people and it felt like the life I led was just trampling on their values. In

business you have to smile while someone is screwing you and I just started thinking ‘what am I doing?’ So I got out while I was still number one.”

His next move was to set up MB&F, although he had less than half the money required to get the project off the ground. Despite investing his entire savings of £500,000 in the operation it was soon eaten up with operating costs and the company was effectively bust by May 2007.

“It was totally insane. I would never take those risks today,” he says. “Luckily, in June 2007 we sold two pieces, which was just enough to keep us going. The thing is, though, that I come from a family with no money so it was relatively easy to live like a penniless student again, eating the cheapest meals. I was used to five-star restaurants from my Harry Winston days but this lifestyle change helped me regain my taste. That once a month pizza treat with my girlfriend tasted better than any Michelin-starred meal. Today, I’m still trying to hold on to that feeling.”

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With each piece requiring three years R&D, 18 months machining and two months’assembly, virtually all of MB&F’s profits are ploughed back into the company. A new watch is released every year and Busser also experiments with more esoteric offerings, such as mechanical music boxes and clocks.

“I still live on the edge. I’m an adrenaline junkie, always trying to do something different. Creativity is a muscle that you can work and tone, and selfish creativity is art. MB&F is both my autobiography and my psychotherapy. It’s a constant evolution imagined by a group of free thinkers,” he says.

It’s taken a long time for this horological genius to realise his potential and face down his childhood fears and, despite his near obsession to continually create, he regards himself as finally fulfilled.

“I was not a happy youngster but I am now a happy man. I’m happy because I’m free. I considered myself a loser at the age of 18, but now I like what I have become.” mbandf.com

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Roger Smith

There can be few things more nerve-wracking for a fledgling watchmaker than meeting a genuinely legendary horologist. This, though, was precisely what happened when a 26-year-old Roger Smith first visited the late George Daniels, inventor of the seminal co-axial escapement, a design that re-wrote the mechanical watchmaking industry standards and is now regarded as the most significant advancement in mechanical timekeeping since the invention by Thomas Mudge of the lever escapement, which he first used in a watch in 1769.

Smith had brought the first watch he had ever built to show to Daniels who, after taking it apart and examining it detail, turned to Smith and said, “Congratulations, you’re a watchmaker.”

Smith was immediately recruited as Daniels’ only-ever apprentice and 17 years on, he is still on the Isle of Man running his own workshop, making a mere 10 examples of his own wristwatch per year – every single component save for the glass and hairspring painstakingly crafted from the bare metal.

More recently, he was honoured to be selected as a participant in the government’s GREAT Britain initiative, designing a one-off watch (right) – featuring one of the most complex dials ever to have been made by hand – to highlight the creative potential of Britain’s watchmaking industry. Here, Smith reveals how Daniels legacy remains a cornerstone of his creativity.

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Given the success of your brand, do you have any advice for aspiring watchmakers?

Read George Daniels’book, Watchmaking. It’s the whole industry in one book and is always open on my desk. I first saw him give a speech when I was a student in Manchester in 1987 and he had a great presence. I got to hold his Space Traveller’s pocket watch – an iconic piece – and a cold shiver went down my spine.

How would you describe your watches?

Very English. I developed my ideas by working on my first pocket watches and, very quickly, I realised that there had never been a luxury watch made in Britain. I decided to apply the same high standards you see in classic English pocket watches to my wristwatches.

You’re known for your painstaking detail and correspondingly low output. How many watches have you produced in your career?

Sixty pieces under our brand name – around 10-12 a year. It might take two weeks to make a dial, but I know that in 100 years, or even 500 years, it will still be okay.”

Who buys your watches?

Mostly collectors, as you’d expect. Successful people, usually self-made, in their 30s to mid60s. Many of them visit at pre-order stage and I know pretty much all of them personally.

What do you like about living and working on the Isle of Man? Well, it’s very picturesque and beautiful. In terms of business, there are good tax breaks and the fact that it’s self-governing makes it a great place for small businesses.

What’s your view of British watchmaking right now?

Well, there’s lots going on with British brands, but none of them are creating their movements here. We need to get to that stage – it can be done – but I don’t think it does anyone any favours when British brands describe their movements as in-house when they are clearly not.

What brands do you admire?

A. Lange & Söhne make great watches and do some excellent work. You can see their designers have a deep horological knowledge. Also, I think Rolex create sensational watches for the money.

Lastly, what are you working on today and what does 2015 hold?

I’m busy on Series 3, which is long overdue. I’ve spent two years working on it so far – the Series 2 came out in 2006 – and I’m starting to feel some pressure. It’s like the difficult second album syndrome. The design is almost finished though, and a prototype is under way, so watch this space… rwsmithwatches.com

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C

M

Y

CM

MY

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CMY

K

Fiona Kruger

From the moment we set our eyes on the striking Memento Mori Skull Watch, the brainchild of independent Scottish designer Fiona Kruger, we knew we had to find out more. Intricately designed, with a unique dial in the shape of a human skull, it’s the result of a masters degree project at Switzerland’s highly respected ECAL college. Her background in fine art, combined with a passion for product design and craftsmanship, has proved the perfect mix to create a watch that has already been showered with praise in the style press and horology circles alike.

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SWISS ARTIST

Presents The Golden Iconic Sportscar Sculptures (Limited Edition)

Ferrari 250 GTO 1:4 Scale

Design by Dante GmbH | Murtenstr. 34 | CH-3202 Frauenkappelen | Switzerland | info@dantedesign.ch | www.danteart.ch

What are you up to right now?

I’m flying around the world at the moment, visiting potential retailers for my watch. Mexico City, Miami, Switzerland and LA – all in the space of two weeks. I’m also teaching at ECAL, my old college, on a luxury design course.

This is how I fell into watchmaking – a complete fluke really – as the course saw me doing some work experience with Audemars Piguet, which was one of the sponsors. It’s was a real ‘wow’ moment when I first visited its manufacture, particularly the skeletonisation department. Between that and a visit to the Patek Museum in Geneva, I was moved by the poetry and emotion that could be put into a watch. I’d done my BA in sculpture and these high-end watches really appealed to my artistic sensibilities. For a designer, there is no industry quite like the watch industry.

How would you describe your design style?

I design for myself, from a more artistic point of view. I realise the skull style is challenging – my movement suppliers nearly had kittens when they saw it, particularly coming from a Scottish chick who’s under 30 – but they saw that I’d done my homework and spent two years on the prototype.

You decided to go with Technotime, rather than ETA, for the movement.What was the thinking behind that?

Peter Speake-Marin (renowned British watchmaker) had a hand in that. He’s been invaluable with his time and good advice so far and I knew he used Technotime, so if it was good enough for him it was good enough for me.

How big is the collection?

There are two styles, steel and black, with 12 watches available in each. This low production is more from financial constraint than anything else. It was either buy a house or launch a watch collection.

Who’s buying them?

My first client was Mexican. I think he appreciated the style because of the Day of the Dead association – the Mexican festival that involves lots of skeletons. There was also a young lady from Beijing, who is tiny, yet what appears on first sight to be a big watch actually fits very well on her wrist. It also appeals to people who have never bought a watch in their life, simply because it is so different to most of what is out there at the moment.

What’s your view of British watchmaking right now?

It’s hard to say as all my experiences have been based in Switzerland, where my watches are made.

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The UK is a real creative hub though and, in time, I’d love to do something truly British.

Who else in the watch world do you admire?

Well, Peter Speake-Marin for sure. Also Max Büsser at MB&F, who has been generous with his time with me too, plus he makes some fascinating watches – pieces that look like they’ve been created in outer space. It’s the independent watchmakers who really excite me – the Palace at Baselworld, for example, is always my favourite part of the show.

When can we expect to see your next designs?

I have a few ideas sketched out already and I plan to release something new every year. I’m looking to do something with the caseback, like a semi-circular skull opening, and also to really pump up the colours. Potentially a smaller size too, and some more layering. Lastly, and this could be a big challenge, I’m working on a skull-shaped movement where the eyes or mouth form a part of the complication. fionakrugertimepieces.com

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Words – Ruben Tabares

Rural retreat Old-world charm meets new-world luxury in a country hotel that’s just a short hop from London

F

or those looking to escape the hustle of the capital, West Sussex has long been regarded as the perfect spot for a relaxing weekend.

Just a short hop from London, the county offers a host of delights, such as the well-preserved Georgian market town of Chichester, awardwinning pubs and inns and the scenic wooded ripple that is the South Downs.

I mention these because, as I gaze from the comfort of my sumptuous hotel suite, I can see these majestic chalk hills in all their glory. The view is just one of many highlights of a stay at South Lodge, a vast, handsome luxury hotel situated in 93 acres of countryside just south of Horsham. From the outside, it has a regal, imposing feel – with a helipad for those looking to arrive in style – and that aesthetic continues as you enter the large lobby, which is filled with charming features and an open fire.

The whole hotel blends the best of the old and the new, with the rooms offering modern amenities such as Bose sound docks and, in our suite at least, a bubbling Jacuzzi bath, alongside more traditional touches such as antique furniture and thick drape curtains. The whole room had a sense of well-judged design about it, with everything perfectly placed to ensure a memorable stay and, crucially, a great night’s sleep.

We were booked in for dinner later that evening, at the hotel’s Camellia restaurant, and decided to work up an appetite by taking a stroll around the property’s expansive grounds.

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Way-marked by wooden posts, a short walk rewards us with a trail through an incredible display of rhododendrons, camellias and azaleas.

Every inch of the walk is magical – like a reallife Narnia – with huge mature trees next to babbling brooks, a Victorian rockery and, of course, beautifully manicured, tiered lawns. We also spied the kitchen garden, which was filled with vegetables and herbs ready to be picked for the evening service.There were even six clucking Sussex chickens, whose eggs we’d be sampling the next morning, no doubt.

As a qualified nutritionist, I can be a fairly critical about the lack of healthy options on most hotel and restaurant menus but South Lodge’s organic, seasonal approach was both refreshing and delicious. Overseen by head chef Steven Edwards, winner of 2013’s MasterChef: The Professionals TV series, this was contemporary British food at its best. From the pigeon breast with roast baby beetroot, caramelised feta, apple compote and watercress, to Edwards’ signature pan-fried stone bass on a bed of tomato and parmesan orzo, it’s easy to see why Michel Roux et al crowned him champion.

And after such a magnificent meal, there are few better feelings in life than knowing you only have a short journey upstairs where a sumptuous suite awaits you. If you’re looking for the definition of sheer bliss, then a day spent dining and relaxing at South Lodge is surely it. southlodgehotel.co.uk

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Words – Tim Heyes

T

here’s something thrilling about spotting a beautiful house and then slowly crunching down its long driveway, getting more excited every step of the way.

We’re at Llangoed Hall, a luxury country house hotel in Wales’s Wye Valley which was once the home of designer Laura Ashley and her family.

Brian, the hotel’s operations manager, greets us on the gravel and he’s the perfect host. Warm and welcoming and with a wry sense of humour, he has the ability to make every guest feel as if they’ve been given a personal invitation to the hall.

We’re given an extensive overview of the property before being shown to our suite – a journey that takes in wide sweeping staircases and beautifully decorated hallways adorned with a fascinating array of original artwork.

Our suite, Paultons, is arguably the best in the house.Understated,graceful and picked out in light blues and dove greys with an immense four-poster bed that we immediately leap on, it’s everything that an elegant country couple could wish for.The handsome writing desk and roll-top bath only add to the feeling of old-world sophistication.

The evening begins in the cosy drawing room with drinks and a selection of amuse-bouche.

These are served by the chef and offer a taste of what’s to come from the kitchen, which serves home-grown vegetables from its Victorian walled garden, meat and fish from the on-site smoker and other produce that is sourced from no further than seven miles from the hotel.

These mini morsels of delight included pickled garden vegetables wrapped in smoked eel, home

Suite dreams The former home of Laura Ashley offers stellar service in an idyllic country-house setting cured bresaola with turnip remoulade and beef skewers with yuzu served on a hot stone.

Dinner was taken in one of the main dining rooms, with the food no less impressive than our pre-dinner tasters.The seared and marinated scallops with mussels, leek and shiso, and the roast cod fillet with palourde clams, vegetables and butter sauce were the stand-out dishes in what was a truly memorable meal.

Morning comes gently to Llangoed Hall, and after opening our eyes in the same bed as Johnny Depp (albeit with a certain amount of time having lapsed between our respective stays) we open the curtains to a view of immaculate lawns stretching out past the river to the rolling hills of the Wye Valley, dotted with ancient oaks.

Breakfast is another opportunity to sample further hyperlocal produce ranging from a full Welsh breakfast to homemade granola or

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mouthwatering Llangoed smoked haddock.

Post-breakfast, we stride off along the river Wye to a 19th-century suspension bridge, and on our return take the opportunity to explore the grounds of the hotel. If you go past the outdoor chess set and croquet lawn, round a small wildflower meadow and across the circular driveway you come to a ‘secret’ Victorian walled garden. Everything here, from the delicate pear trees heavy with fruit to the flock of snowy ducks is tended with love and the taste clearly reveals itself in the dishes served at Llangoed Hall.

Parting ways with Llangoed Hall was a particular sadness for my wife, who had imagined herself roaming the elegant rooms and gardens forever, dressed in an array of vintage 1970s Laura Ashley maxidresses. But reality won, and we left knowing that we wouldn’t hesitate for a moment to return to this exquisite hotel. llangoedhall.co.uk

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Words – Claudia Avila-Batchelor

Chasing

Unexplored, idyllic beaches throughout Cuba are catnip to thrill-seekers who are looking for an adrenalin-filled break to enjoy kitesurfing and surfing, or to just lap up the sights and sounds of the Caribbean’s largest island - 115 -

Photograph by Hege Holt

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W

e are looking for an old man with a missing thumb who lives in the next village. He sells petrol at 20 cents a litre instead of $1.20 and everyone knows he is the person to go to when the pumps run dry. There is a man like him in every city, village and town in Cuba because that is the way it is – there is a black market for almost anything you could possible need.

“We make the most of the little we have,” he says when we meet him, although he’s keen to stress that his name shouldn’t appear in print, for fear of upsetting the authorities. His huge smile and warm manner, though, are typical of the Cubans as a nation. The less these people seem to have, the more they want to give.

A couple of days earlier we had embarked on a kitesurfing trip across the relatively virgin waters of Cuba. There are fewer than 30 kiters in the capital, La Habana, around 20 in Varadero, and likely single numbers in the other spots on the whole island – a country that’s almost twice the size of Ireland. This makes for unexplored beaches that are exceptional for everyone, but for kiters in particular, this is a paradise.

Fidel Castro’s tough regime has provided a confusing but workable structure for the island’s citizens. Great healthcare and education, combined with plenty of housing stock, has created a fascinating, clean, safe and easily accessible destination for tourists. That said, guidebooks and maps are essential if you are travelling around, as the internet can be intermittent. The better hotels do have limited Wi-Fi but patience is key.

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raiding galleons approaching. White powder beaches give way to lush dramatic hills, and the hotel provided its signature Royal Service that is second to none.

Even if you’re not a kiteboarder or surfer, there are ample activities to make a road trip in Cuba a rewarding holiday, mixing travel with culture, sports with pampering relaxation, and singular experiences made all the more special because mass tourism has yet to engulf this paradise.

Enjoy it while it you can…

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Photograph by Hege Holt

In truth, though, there is an indulgent exquisiteness in immersing yourself in a country that lives in a bygone era. With no ‘always on’ digital culture and a backdrop of classic cars and faded colonial architecture, the very essence of Cuba will seep directly into your veins once your digital senses are stilled.

After spending a few days losing ourselves in the cultural colossus of La Habana, we drive southeast towards Holguin, taking the coastal route to find wind spots and waves.

This rewarded us with our one-thumb-Juan adventure, and visits to several handsome villages. Cuba is a photographer’s dream and even those whose snapping skills are suspect will be able to capture the vivid pulse of the country on camera.

After a few hours’ travel along picturesque roads, our first night was spent at the glorious Buena Vista in Santa Marta, a luxury allinclusive resort in one of the most Eden-like keys of the region. Postcard-perfect lagoons surround the property, alongside coral reefs abundant in marine life. Flat waters and waves make this a perfect destination for honeymooners, small groups and explorers.

The personal butler is a great touch, and the service was outstanding.

Our next stop took us to the Paradisus Rio de Oro in Guardalavaca near Holguin, on the southern part of the island. Once a pirate town (guardalavaca means “hide the cow” in Spanish) – the name derives from the phrase that villagers would shout when they saw the

Photograph by Hege Holt

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Sleep

Photograph by Hege Holt

Travelling around Cuba is safe but can be a little frustrating if you don’t speak Spanish, especially in the more rural areas. For bespoke tours, including excursions such as cultural city highlights, classic car and mafia tours, art, photography and culinary expeditions, sports and leftfield experiences and off the beaten track adventures, look no further than ZeZee Travel for tailor-made itineraries. zezeetravel.com info@zezeetravel.com

Photograph by Hege Holt

How to do it

The Meliá Hotel group provides some of the best accommodation on the island from the Cohiba hotel in La Habana, to the Buena Vista Santa Marta and the wonderful Paradisus Rio de Oro in Holguín. meliacuba.com

EAT

La Bodeguita del Medio, Hemingway’s favourite watering hole is very touristy but worth it for a lively night of salsa and signature mojitos.

Calle Empedrado No. 206, Old Havana, (+53 7) 8671374

Photograph by Hege Holt

La Casa in Nuevo Vedado is a former private home that has been granted a rare licence to operate as a non estate-owned restaurant serving delicious homemade Cuban food. restaurantelacasacuba.com

DRINK

Photographs by Hege Holt

KITE/SURF

The Havana Kiteboarding Club, run by Matteo Gattis, an Italian living on the island, has all the information you need for kiting and surfing throughout the country. facebook.com/havanakiteboarding.club

Culture

Fuste is one of Cuba’s leading contemporary artists and you can visit his home in the barrio of Jaimanita.

The nearby Art University and Callejón de Hamel in central Habana are also great places to explore.

SHOWTIME

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Catch the legendary Buena Vista Social Club at their nightly residency at the Habana Café in the Meliá Cohiba hotel.

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La DOLCE VITA With her timeless style and natural elegance, actress Cate Blanchett is a perfect ambassador for luxury Swiss watch brand IWC. She’s captured on camera by renowned photographer Peter Lindbergh, who also shot actors Christoph Waltz, Ewan McGregor, Emily Blunt and Zhou Xun to showcase the launch of the brand’s beautiful new Portofino Midsize collection.

Cate is seen here wearing the Portofino Midsize Automatic Day & Night watch featuring a red gold case set with 66 diamonds.The new collection combines three new 37-millimetre models in 17 different versions: the Portofino Midsize Automatic Moon Phase, the Portofino Midsize Automatic Day & Night and the Portofino Midsize Automatic.

And the location? Where else but the stunning Italian harbour town of Portofino, a picturesque place that proved to be the perfect backdrop to launch this impressive new collection.

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