Tempus Magazine: Issue 51

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WEALTH

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FEMME

OCEAN

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SPORT

EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW

GAIA WEISS Behind the scenes with cinema’s secret ballerina

ISSUE

51

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FROM THE EDITOR Welcome to the Femme issue of Tempus our quarterly treat for our female readers. From fashion and beauty to art and travel, Femme brings together all the finer things in life, with a feminine twist. Our cover star is Gaia Weiss, an actress, model and ballerina who has much more to her than her beauty. We join her behind-the-scenes as she shoots a stunning video alongside award-winning composer Fabio D’Andrea. We also speak to some of the most powerful women in the world, from equestrian legend Zara Tindall (page 22) to leading female artists making waves in contemporary art (page 122). Join us as we travel to Italy with Salvatore Ferragamo and uncover a beautiful artisan village in the hills of Tuscany (page 36). Continuing the bespoke theme, we delve into the art of perfume making with one of France’s greatest master perfumers (page 30). In the Style section, we look ahead to September for an exclusive preview of Fashion Week (page 50). In Indulge, we examine the rising popularity of rosé (page 66) and discover what it takes to be a Michelin Guide critic. While in Escape, we travel from Zanzibar (page 82) to Barbados (page 86) in search of the most luxurious destinations on the planet. Finally, don’t miss Move, where we explore the latest in yachting, motoring and flying vehicles, and Culture, where we open your mind to the most inspiring artworks and intelligent reads for summer.

Enjoy the issue.

Rachel Ingram

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Editorial Director Scott Manson scott@tempusmagazine.co.uk

Creative Director Ross Forbes ross@tempusmagazine.co.uk

Publisher Jay Boisvert jay@tempusmagazine.co.uk

Editor Rachel Ingram rachel@tempusmagazine.co.uk

Design Jake Farrugia jake@tempusmagazine.co.uk

Business Development Director Ashley Collin ashley@tempusmagazine.co.uk

Digital Editor Michelle Johnson michelle@tempusmagazine.co.uk

Video Editor Paul Canaan paul@tempusmagazine.co.uk

Events Director Georgia Peck georgia@tempusmagazine.co.uk

Chief Executive Officer Shaun Prince shaun@tempusmagazine.co.uk

Contributors

Dominique Afacan

Antonia Windsor

Adam Hay-Nicholls

Dominique’s myriad travel assignments have taken her on a series of exclusive adventures across the globe. For this issue, she speaks to the high-flying women who are making waves in the superyacht industry. Read her article on page 96.

A travel writer for 15 years, Antonia has flown helicopters, stayed in mud huts and eaten locusts all in the name of journalism. In this edition, she travels to Tuscany to discover the Ferragamo family’s beautiful Italian artisan village (page 36).

F1 columnist and luxury car correspondent Adam Hay-Nicholls has travelled the globe with the likes of Ferrari and McLaren. In this issue, he stands on the sidelines to watch gentlemen racers in France’s Tour Auto classic car rally (page 102).

Office Address: Tempus Media Ltd 3-5 Wardour Street London, W1D 6PB

tempusmagazine.co.uk @tempusmagazine tempus magazine @tempus_media_

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Cover image Gaia Weiss starring in Statues Credit: Rikki Chandler

+44(0)20 7993 4183

© 2017 Tempus Media Limited Articles and other contributions published in this journal may be reproduced only with special permission from the Publishers. The Publishers Tempus Media Limited, accept no responsibility for any views or statements made in the articles and other contributions reproduced from any other source. No responsibility is accepted for the claims in advertisements appearing in this journal and the Publishers reserve the right to accept or refuse advertisements at their discretion.

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CONTENTS

Femme 18 The luxe list The things we can’t live without this summer 22 Girls on fire Three women breaking glass ceilings in the sports world 30 Heaven scent Bespoke fragrance making at its best 36 A Tuscan jewel Exploring the Ferragamo family’s artisan village in Italy 42 The barre essentials Behind the scenes with actress and dancer Gaia Weiss

Style 50 The changing face of fashion week What to look forward to from the shows in September 56 Diamonds are forever A sneak peek of de Grisogono’s sparkling new jewellery collections 60 Tailor your best shot An essential guide to dressing for The Glorious Twelfth

Indulge 66 Rosé on the rise Discover why we’re all drinking pink 70 In the stars What it takes to be a Michelin Guide critic 76 A classic, revisited Why J Sheekey’s terrace is the place to be this summer

Escape 82 Singing the blues An unforgettable adventure in Zanzibar 86 Island dreaming A Caribbean paradise awaits at Grenada’s Spice Island Beach Resort 88 A wellness revolution Fitness meets relaxation at Healthouse Las Dunas 92 Return to the Riviera Inside our stay at Devon’s Orestone Manor

Move 96 Reshuffling the deck The women making waves in the yachting industry 102 A certain vintage Priceless cars and fast rides at Le Mans 108 Taking flight The future of travel is above us

Culture 116 10 books you should read this summer A hand-picked selection of quality reads 122 A woman’s touch Female artists are dominating the Royal Academy’s Summer Exhibition

Smart living 130 On the edge This month’s hottest tech releases 134 Cool pools A glorious pool is a summer essential 144 Save the date The essential luxury event calendar

ISSUE 51


Girls on fire 22

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The LUXE LIST Seasonal essentials with a feminine touch

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Bulgari Secret-Watch Monete Necklace

Inspired by Alexander the Great, Bulgari’s statement timepiece is the perfect combination of timeless jewels and expert timekeeping. The bold octagonal pendant features the emperor’s profile in silver, surrounded by pink gold, diamonds and rubies. But the watch’s true secret is in the workings beneath, with the pendant opening to reveal the delicate inner components of its tourbillon calibre BVL 208 mechanism. bulgari.com

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MOSS Candles

Parham Ramezani Maestro

Like the best artisan luxury goods, those created by MOSS (Moments of Sense and Style) have a fascinating story behind them. Created by a couple who were respectively fashion and design experts, until one of them was struck ill. As part of his recuperation, he began to sketch and design again, and together they formed a fledgling company selling small-batch products to a discerning clientele who recognise quality when they see it. From beautiful hand-bound notebooks, with paper milled in England’s Lake District, to elegant scented candles made from natural wax, this is the definition of stealth luxe. momentsofsenseandstyle.com

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Blancpain Quantième Rétrograde

For its latest women’s timepiece, Blancpain takes its famous moonphase design and gives it an ultra-feminine twist. The new Quantième Rétrograde features a stunning mother-of-pearl dial set with diamonds and a retrograde calendar with a female ‘moon’ – a first for the brand. blancplain.com

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Combining 95g of highest grade platinum, exotic python leather and more than 100 glittering diamonds, this limited-edition bracelet exudes the confidence of a true thrill seeker. And with Formula 1’s Jenson Button as the new face of the brand, it’s no surprise Remezani took inspiration from the sleek shapes and intricate structures of motorsport to innovate his jewellery line yet again. parhamramezani.com

Taylor Morris RollRight Limited Edition Never mind rose-tinted glasses, Taylor Morris have done one better with their limited-edition lenses made of 18 carat gold lenses and offering 100% UV protection. Featuring a solid gold brow bar and signature Ivory Horn acetate rim, your world will be washed in gold as the late summer approaches. We can’t imagine a better view. taylormorriseyewear.com

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Moser Anniversary Collection Glass company Moser tells us that art knows no boundaries as it celebrates 160 years of creating fine statement pieces. Founded in 1857, it has become synonymous with handcrafted work from generation to generation, and chosen a handful of glass vases, flutes and bohemian originals from its history that are sure to be a conversation starter. We love this hand cut Melody vase. moser-glass.com

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Louis Vuitton Tressage Tote The iconic LV monogram print is 120 years young and making history with a slew of collaborations in the bag – quite literally. The instantly identifiable print has graced everything from bags to belts with its popularity never waning, perhaps due to its loving origins by Georges Vuitton in honour of his brilliant father Louis. It was Georges who took the flowers from the tiles of his family kitchen and added his father’s initials, ensuring the family would always remember its roots even as it continues to branch into new fabrics, shapes and materials; like this year’s stunning structural Tressage Tote. uk.louisvuitton.com

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Poptastic by Jo Malone Jo Malone is redefining the scent of summer with her new collaboration with model (and the brand’s original ambassador) Poppy Delevingne. Playful Poppy has redesigned the bottles of her two favourite scents – Orange Blossom and Tuberose Angelica – with a burst of confetti style to match her personality. Poppy even recommends wearing the two together for a muskier night time cologne saying that, as with the collaboration, the two scents are “a match made in floral heaven”. jomalone.co.uk

Audemars Piguet Diamond Outrage

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FEMME

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Dermalogica Phyto Replenish Oil We can’t get enough of Dermalogica’s triple-layered Phyto Replenish Oil, which works in three phases to strengthen, hydrate and shield skin. An essential cosmetic for the summer, this feather-light treatment oil rapidly absorbs to reinforce the skin’s protective barrier. Perfect for achieving that all-day dewy skin glow, dab it onto bare skin or layer it under your foundation for maximum impact. dermalogica.co.uk

Launer Ostrich Traviata Handbag Why buy off the shelf when you can buy bespoke? New from Launer, a specialist in British hand-crafted, made-to-order leather accessories, is this bold Ostrich Traviata Handbag. With a distinctive shade of ostrich leather adding a contemporary touch to a classic design, it’s guaranteed to make a striking style statement for summer. launer.com

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Girls on fire

These talented female sports stars are turning up the heat on their male sporting counterparts

Words: Rachel Ingram

Zara Tindall

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hen Hilary Clinton said, “the light is shining through like never before, filling us all with the hope and the sure knowledge that the path will be a little easier next time,” she wasn’t just referring to women in American politics, but women in all industries around the world. While a female almost made it to the most powerful seat in the Western world – a surefire sign that times are changing – one field where women are still struggling to compete with their male counterparts is sport. While there

are exceptions to every rule, sport, in general, remains a male-dominated world. In almost every sphere from football to athletics, men are paid more and given more exposure. However, there are females whose talent and ambition is changing views for the better. We spoke to three women who are smashing glass ceilings and inspiring new generations of sports stars who, thanks to their work, are growing up with better opportunities to dominate the industry. From British monarchy to Czech tennis ‘royalty’, these ladies are the epitome of girl power. »

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Zara Z Tindall

ara Tindall MBE is the face of British equestrianism. As the grandchild of Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh; and daughter of Anne, Princess Royal and Mark Phillips, an Olympic gold-medalwinning horseman; success for Zara was always in her blood. For years she has dominated the British eventing circuit, winning accolades such as BBC Sports Personality of the Year and a silver medal at the London 2012 Olympics – she’s even been awarded an MBE for her services to equestrianism, further solidifying her great legacy. As the Rolex Grand Slam of Eventing enters its final phase with the Burghley Horse Trials in September – following the Kentucky Three-Day Event in April and the Badminton Horse Trials in May – Zara opens up about sporting achievements, her passion for equestrian and female ambition.

Britain’s ‘first lady’ of equestrianism

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Tempus: What do you feel has been your greatest sporting accomplishment to date? Zara Tindall: Defining just one moment as my greatest sporting accomplishment is difficult, because I’ve been lucky enough to have had a lot of really incredible moments during my career. Winning the Europeans and the Worlds was a huge moment, that is for sure. But, winning silver at the Olympics was unreal. Winning an Olympic medal on home soil, overlooking your country’s capital is like nothing else I’ve experienced. Every time a British rider was on the course you could just hear the roar of the crowd. And, to have my mother presenting my silver medal [as President of the British Olympic Association] rounded off a truly amazing experience. T: How long have you and your stables been based at Gatcombe Park? Z: I have had my stables based at Gatcombe Park for nearly all of my competitive career, as I lived at Gatcombe – it made the early mornings to get up to do the horses a bit easier! However, I have recently moved to Aston Farm and the horses and yard are here too now. T: What are the necessary sporting, physical and psychological qualities needed to succeed in world-class eventing? Z: The most essential quality needed to succeed in world-class eventing is physical and psychological dedication. You must be whole-heartedly committed to achieving excellence. This of course incorporates a devoted physical regime – I ride up to eight horses a day and I also work hard on my own fitness. So, I work out a detailed plan to make sure I am in shape. My choice is predominantly swimming and cycling as it’s good for fitness, strength and endurance which are essential to eventing. T: On average, how many hours do you spend riding every day? Z: Virtually every day focuses on the horses in some way or another but no day is ever the same. I ride eight eventing horses; most days I ride out on all of them in the morning. Although exercising the horses is an essential part of my career, it is also definitely for pleasure. I am very lucky that I love what I do and that we have such a fantastic setting for keeping horses. T: Can you explain how you cultivate such a successful partnership with all your horses? Z: Equestrianism is such a unique sport due to the relationship between horse and rider. So much of what we do is about the relationship between you and the horse and getting all the elements right on the day.

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Precision and preparation are key parts to being able to do what I do – with the partnership between a horse and rider it is very important that both are in top form for the key moments and events. T: What sporting ambitions do you have in the long and short term? Z: I am hoping to have High Kingdom back to full fitness for this season. In the longer term, I am also trying to bring up a few of my younger eventers to that standard too, which is a big commitment. I want to continue to compete to the best of my, and my horse’s ability. There is a lot of work to do but I am certainly looking to Tokyo and competing at another Olympics too. T: How do you feel the Rolex Grand Slam of Eventing prize has helped promote and elevate the sport of eventing? Z: The Rolex Grand Slam of Eventing has established another level to the top-tier of professional eventing. Winning any of the four FEI events is an enormous achievement, but the prospect of winning the Rolex Grand Slam of Eventing – Kentucky, Badminton & Burghley – in succession just takes it to the next level. The thing is at each event in itself the competition is absolutely fierce – the events are iconic in their own right so everyone competing wants to win. So, to put horse and rider through the whole season and win all three of those pinnacle events is something very special. T: What impact do you think Rolex has had on the sport of equestrianism? Z: Rolex, both as a brand and as a sponsor, has been a mark of success in so many sports over the years, particularly equestrianism. The brand really is the pinnacle of the sport and has done so much through its support of both top-level riders and iconic events. We are very lucky that they continue to do so much for our sport. T: What does it mean to you personally to be working with Rolex? Z: It is extremely important to me to be linked to a brand that has such deeply rooted values like Rolex. Rolex is also synonymous with equestrianism, so it has always been a very natural fit for me to be associated with them. I am very proud to be a part of the Rolex Family – it gives me confidence knowing that they believe in what I can do and that they stand behind me whatever the outcome. I feel really honoured that they wanted me to be one of their Testimonees and that I have such a long-term relationship with them. » rolex.com


Martina Navratilova The queen of international tennis

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egarded by many as the greatest female tennis player of all time, Martina Navratilova’s reputation precedes her. Having held the world number one position in women’s singles for a total of 332 weeks, plus a record 237 weeks at the top of the leaderboard in women’s doubles, she’s the only player in history to occupy the top spot in both singles and doubles for over 200 weeks. She’s also won the Wimbledon Singles title a consecutive record of nine times. It comes as no surprise then that when luxury watchmaker Avantist went looking for an ambassador, Navratilova was the obvious choice. More than just a face, she’s worked with the brand to create an innovative limited-edition collection of watches, each of which features a string from the racquet Navratilova used to win the Wimbledon singles in 1987. The timepieces were unveiled during the Wimbledon championships in July, where Tempus caught up with the sporting legend as she returned to the scene of some of her greatest victories.

Avantist Legend Series Wimbledon 1987

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Tempus: It was 30-years ago that you won your 8th Wimbledon title. Can you recall how you felt on that day? Martina Navratilova: You say it’s 30 but it feels like 20 maximum! I was 30 years old at the time, I played Steffi Graf in the final, I had just lost the French Open just two weeks before, and two weeks later I redeemed myself at Wimbledon. I had a very specific game plan against her and I won the match 7-5, 6-3. I actually remember the set point in the first set. Normally at the net, she’s on the base line, but somehow this time she ended up at the net and I had a really great backhand passing shot on set point, and then I went on to win. So, I remember that match very well because I really wasn’t meant to win. Even though I hadn’t lost, I’d won six in a row at that point, but I just found that inspiration on the day. T: How did you first get into tennis? M: My parents played and my grandparents played, in fact my parents actually met on the tennis court when I was five. Back when I was a child, we had a court across the street but it was decrepit, so we went to the club to play. In the spring we would fix the courts. You’d either pay the fee to be a member or you could work, so we worked. I started playing against the wall for a couple of years, but I could only hold the racquet with two hands. I had my grandmother’s racquet, a heavy wooden racquet with a wooden handle, so I couldn’t hold it with one hand. My father was a player and he said when I could hit a forehand he’s take me to play on the tennis court’. So for two years I just played against the wall. When I was seven, I could finally hold it with one hand so my father coached me for a couple of years but he didn’t really know how to teach tennis, so I got a coach when I was nine years old, and that was that. So that was my start – hitting it on the wall and pretending I was Rod Laver. T: In a career that spanned over 30 years, what motivated you and kept you going? M: I think all the champions have the same motivation, which is to be better. We love the sport. If you don’t love tennis you can’t play it well because it’s just too intense. You have to have a passion for it. I always loved it. Through the years I always thought I could play better tennis, that I hadn’t yet hit my peak. I was still learning about better techniques and tactics, and how to play better under pressure… I always felt like I was evolving so I never stopped growing, never stopped being curious. As Billie Jean King said, she’s never seen the ball come over the net same way twice, there is always something different about each shot.

don’t quit until they get it right. And then when you get it right, you wanted to get it right, and then you want to get it right a little bit better. I was burnt out, I played tennis for about six years where I didn’t really take a day off, I think I over-trained a little bit, but nevertheless I stayed at the top for six years and then I was just burnt out and I didn’t know it. For about three years I was where Novak Djokovic is now I think, at the end of ’86, ’87, ’88, but by ’89 I just needed to step away. I had a psychologist and who said take a week and don’t do anything at all. She said if you can get the feeling back when you were hitting the ball against the wall when you were six years old, then keep playing, if you can’t, then quit. It was having the permission to quit that made me realise I didn’t want to. So I came back. T: Would you say winning your 9th Wimbledon title was your important? M: It was the most satisfying because I really had to work at it. I changed my footwork completely. In the old days, you did a cross step to the forehand and backhand, now, it’s all open steps. I started playing when I was five, this is now ’89 and I’m 33, and I realised I’m doing it wrong. If I really wanted to complete I had to do an open stance and start with an open foot. It’s because of doing that that I realised I could compete against Steffi Graf, etc, then I won that Wimbledon in ’90 and that was the most satisfying. I had won eight Wimbledons and I had to start over essentially, but that’s what kept me going – the ability to evolve and get better. T: Do you reckon your record will be broken? M: Well if anybody can break it, it’s obviously Serena Williams. Or Roger Federer, actually. The way that Serena is playing at the moment, she could. She’s about to give birth and she’s already said she’s coming back. If anyone can do it, it’s her. T: Strings from some of your winning racquet have been incorporated into Avantist’s striking Legend Series timepieces. Please tell us about this collaboration.

T: Was there ever a moment during your tennis career that you felt like giving up?

M: I wish I had more racquets to make more watches! This was Keeran Janin’s [ founder of Avantist] idea, obviously, and I was thrilled with it. I thought it was so original. I love new ideas, I like doing new things, experimenting and evolving… and I love watches. I have about 15 watches at home. I’m also into mechanics, I like how things work, so I was intrigued by having the idea of putting strings that mean something into a watch. I also thought engineering wise this would be quite a challenge for a watchmaker. It just was intriguing to me to think you could have a piece of your history on your wrist. How cool is that! Watches usually record history but this has a little bit of history inside. »

M: Giving up? That’s not in my vocabulary. Champions

avantist.ch

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Nina Clarkin The world’s leading female polo player

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ina Clarkin has spent her entire life on horseback. At age two, when most toddlers are playing with toy horses, Nina was already riding. Her passion grew with her age and as she progressed from ponies to horses she followed in the footsteps of her polo player father Mark Vestey to become one of the most promising young players England has ever seen. She has played professionally ever since graduating from university – a relatively unknown feat at the time, especially for a woman. Polo is so engrained in her life that she’s even married to a leading polo player, John Paul Clarkin. As the world’s foremost female polo player, Nina holds the highest Hurlingham Women’s Handicap of 10, and has inspired a generation of young female equestrian enthusiasts. We caught up with the polo legend at the British Polo Day, where she played against the world’s best polo star (and her good friend) Adolfo Cambiaso.

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Tempus: Did you find you were treated differently as a woman when starting out in polo with largely male teams? Nina Clarkin: It was quite tough at the beginning but I never felt any real prejudice, I just felt a bigger need to prove myself on the field. But once that happened I felt I didn’t have any problems, but I know that it has definitely changed in the last few years. T: What has changed it? N: I think a greater awareness and more women playing. At one point in England, polo was the fastest growing sport among young people, predominantly among girls. We have more girls playing and more coming through at the grass roots level, which has produced a virtuous effect whereby we’ve been able to introduce female handicaps in England. This happened about three years ago. It had already happened in Argentina, America, France, so we were quite late onto the bandwagon. T: How do women’s handicaps differ from male handicaps? N: There is a physical limitation for women so previously the highest female in record was five goals. In England, there are about 726 females playing, of which only about 20 who are rated one goal and above. You can imagine how many people are squashed into a very small bracket... By introducing the female handicap and allowing us all to have more space to move across, everybody is more accurately handicapped over a wider range. T: Just explain, as a novice, how is that helpful?

Nina with Adolfo Cambiaso

N: That is helpful because when you’re putting together teams, all your handicaps add up together. This means that now you won’t have a naught goal patron who has a job and only plays at the weekend, rated on the same level as Mia Cambiaso. Previously, they’d both be on nought. Now, I think Mia’s on four or five on the female handicap, while naught goal patron will be on one, so therefore you have a much easier and more representative and accurate handicap. To compare, I’m four goals in the mixed handicap and 10 goals in the female. T: I see you’re close with the Cambiaso family... N: I’m actually going out in December to play with Mia Cambiaso – Adolfo’s giving me horses and I’m going to go and play their female version of The Open out there, which should be great as that’s really introducing ladies’ polo internationally. Polo has really taken off here and in Argentina it has too, but it hasn’t got the right stage to be played on an international level. However, with The Open and Adolfo Cambiaso and

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Milo Fernandez Araujo being really involved, we’ve got people who are passionate about it and want to promote it. That’s going to be fantastic for the people coming through. T: How have you seen the world of polo change for women since you’ve been playing? N: From when I’ve been playing, and I’ve been playing a long time, the growth in female polo and the exposure we’ve been getting has completely changed. And it’s all happening for the better. It’s not going to benefit me particularly because I’m at the top end and I’m going to drop off the other side soon, but for all the people that are coming through, it’s going to revolutionise the way they play. They’re going to get paid to play and there’s going to be more women who will be able to make a career out of it. It’s a virtuous circle that’s now really taking off. It’s really exciting for me to see. T: Are the any rising stars in the British polo scene you recommend looking out for? N: There are. We’ve got an international tomorrow against America and I’m playing with a young girl, Izzy McGreggor, who I think is very talented. And then we’ve got another international in about a month’s time and another girl, Hazel Jackson, is coming who has an eight goal handicap. She’s very, very talented. Hopefully she’s going to come and take over from me. When I was pregnant last year, she was the captain of England. I’m excited to play with her. It’s a really exciting time, there is a lot of talent. It’s a bit scary for me because they’re all coming for me. But I’m too old to be the best player so there should be someone coming through. It’s a good thing. T: How important is the standard and training of the horse, in comparison to the rider? N: Our horses do a lot of the work for us – they are 80% of our game in many ways. If you’re on a bad horse, you can’t get to the ball, and if you can’t beat the other guys to get to the ball, it doesn’t matter how good you are, you can’t win. Today I played on three horses we brought over from New Zealand, where we make our horses. We brought them straight off the race track so they’re pure thoroughbred. They were very well bred but they weren’t particularly fast race horses, surprisingly, so we took them on and made them into polo ponies. It’s nice because it’s like a second career for them. John, my husband, who’s a Kiwi, always says that the New Zealand thoroughbred is a very adaptable animal and if it doesn’t make it as a race horse, it can go into dressage, show jumping or eventing. They adapt, they change and they’re amazing. A good polo pony loves it. I used to have one that got hiccups she was so excited before a game. britishpoloday.com


Heavenscent Bespoke fragrances take tailoring from your wardrobe to your cosmetics cupboard Words: Rachel Ingram

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FEMME SMART LIVING

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discerning gentleman wouldn’t buy a suit off the shelf, so why should a modern women settle for a ready-made fragrance? Perfume is the finishing touch to any lady’s outfit and should be considered just as important as her accessories, if not more so. Just as a tailor sculpts an outfit to the natural curves of a patron’s body, leading perfumeries in London are working with clients to select notes that work with their skin and blend a bespoke and highly personal scent just for them. One such boutique is Penhaligon’s, located in Harrods’ recentlyextended Salon de Perfumes. Here, the luxury perfumery offers two excellent fragrance-making experiences: semi-bespoke and bespoke. The nose behind the semi-bespoke concept is Fabrice Pellegrin, one of France’s greatest master perfumers. To Pellegrin, the intricate art of perfume making runs in his blood. “My father was a perfumer; my grandmother a beloved jasmine picker and my grandfather a supplier of naturals for perfumery. My craft is a true family story. Naturals hold no secrets from me as I grew up surrounded by their precious scents. It is no surprise that my sense of smell is particularly developed as I never stopped training it from my earliest age.” Pellegrin has a way of capturing emotion in scent that is unrivalled. “Most women need to feel self-confident in the fragrance they wear; it involves a lot of emotions to find the scent that brings inner pleasure,” he says. “When I design a feminine

fragrance I always imagine a woman and which attributes I am about to highlight. My main objective is to focus on enhancing her natural beauty so she feels more seductive.” Penhaligon’s semi-bespoke service starts with a private consultation at Salon de Parfums during which Pellegrin works with clients to define their olfactive personality, based on their tastes and expectations. Customers then chosoe one of the four exclusive bases – Chypre, Wood, Amber and Oriental – and one Essences Signature – options include Iris, Oud, Rose and Santal – which are blended to craft the final customised blend. Pellegrin says: “As they first chose the base, we have a discussion that will enable me to best define their olfactive personality. This is all is about the fragrances they used to wear, the ingredients they prefer, what they expect from the fragrance…. Then I will suggest which Essence should best customise the fragrance. Each one can be combined with any one of the four natural ingredients selected to beautifully complete the composition and be the perfect fragrance for each client to showcase her personality and build her own unique fragrance.” The fragrance is then presented in a customised100ml bottle, featuring personalised engraving and a choice of bows. It’s perfect for those who are accustomed to a bespoke way of life but are also short on time, because customers are able to take it away with them that day. For those who have the luxury of time, Penhaligon’s also offers a ‘bespoke’ option. Created by world-renowned master perfumer »

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Alberto Morillas


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Fabrice Pellegrin

Alberto Morillas, the made-to-measure programme is a six-month-long process which includes four meetings and myriad tests to make sure the final scent is the perfect fit for the client. Pellegrin explained: “At the beginning of the creative process, master perfumer Alberto Morillas’s first encounter with the client will help unveiling her personality. That becomes the key to unlocking the olfactive universe. The initial request includes a detailed profile featuring her character and lifestyle, her specific expectations as well as her likes and dislikes in terms of olfactive drivers.” Morillas then designs an initial proposal, which he presents to the client. Depending on their reaction, he continues to shape the idea and craft, over the course of several meetings, a refined recipe for their perfect scent. The final formula will then be exclusively copyrighted for the client and presented in crystal bottles with a luxury atomiser. If that’s not enough to make you convert from ready-made to tailored fragrances, we don’t know what will. penhaligons.com

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London’s niche perfume houses Ormonde Jayne Founded by Linda Pilkington, London-based fragrance house Ormonde Jayne specialises in personalised perfumes made from rare materials. As well as luxury fragrances, which are beautifully presented in mandarin and ebony boxes, the company also crafts premium scented candles, bath oils and body lotions. ormondejayne.com

Clive Christian Clive Christian scents are crafted from the rarest, most precious ingredients avaiable. The luxury British perfumer, which blends unique fragrances for men and women, is widely recognised for its crown caps – an instant sign of the prestige of the product enclosed inside the distinctive bottles. clivechristian.com

Floris

Floris Lalique

The appointed perfumer to HM the Queen, Floris is the oldest independent family perfumer in the world. Its talented artisans have been crafting powerful fragrances for British high society since 1730. Visit the boutique to discover Floris’s collection of classic and modern scents. florislondon.com

Creed Creed is the world’s only dynastic, privately held luxury fragrance company. Visit the boutique in Mayfair to discover why the historic familyrun perfume house, which was founded in 1760, is a firm favourite of British and European royal families. creedfragrances.co.uk

Lalique Founded by French glassware designer René Lalique, Lalique is more than your standard perfume house. The historic brand crafts exclusive, iconic fragrances that blend scent with design, resulting in olfactory works of art. lalique.com

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99 mount st, mayfair london, w1k 2tf

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Tuscan jewel

A restored medieval village in the hills of Tuscany, Il Borro is owned by the Ferragamo family and is the place to go for bespoke artisan products

Words: Antonia Windsor

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We now need to heat the silver to make it pliable,” says Massimo Sacchetti, carefully holding a ring of silver over a flame before hammering it flat to make a setting for a pendant. We are in a chaotic jeweller’s workshop called Oro Del Borro in a medieval Tuscan townhouse where Massimo and his business partner David Lazzerini make bespoke jewellery for high-profile clients. “People Whats App me their design ideas,” says Massimo. “We have a bit of to and fro, then they come and we work out the final details.” He shows me the picture of a men’s diamond ring worked in an intricate gold setting rendered in black and another of a copy of medieval marriage rings that he recreated for a client who was coming to get married. This isn’t just an isolated jewellery workshop. This is part of an artisan craftsman community in the beautifully restored hilltop village Il Borro, which is also a Relais & Châteaux resort. Along the cobbled lanes you’ll also find a shoemaker, a milliner, a potter and a painter. Each of them is making and selling work on site and you can join them in a two-hour workshop to make your own bespoke item as part of your stay here. Although the village is nearly 1,000 years old, the presence of the artisans is a recent phenomenon. The pretty pink-stoned village and surrounding villas and farmland was purchased in 1993 by Ferruccio Ferragamo, son of the famous Florentine

shoemaker Salvatore Ferragamo who made shoes for the likes of Judy Garland and Marilyn Monroe. Although it had been previously owned by some of the Europe’s grandest families, including the Medicis in 18th century, the HohenloheWaldenburgs in the 19th century and the house of Savoy-Aosta in 20th century, when it passed to the Ferragamo family it was in a sorry state. “This has been an amazing experience because we started from scratch,” explains Salvatore Ferragamo, Ferruccio’s son and his grandfather’s namesake. “The medieval village was completely abandoned, the villa was destroyed, the farming needed to be completely redone.” They embarked on a painstaking and expensive restoration of all areas of the estate, restoring the village one property at a time and transforming the interiors of several of the houses into luxurious suites so that guests can now stay in the heart of the old hamlet. The introduction of skilled artisans to the area was an attempt to retain the authenticity. “My father and I said let’s not turn it into Disney World, let’s give it an element of authenticity,” says Salvatore, who is passionate about getting every aspect of the estate just right. “Tuscany is so rich in artisans so we made an agreement; we offered the stores for free in return for a commitment that they open all the time, because we are in the business of hospitality and we need to be open. They agreed, they liked the concept.” »

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THIS ISN’T JUST AN ISOLATED JEWELLERY WORKSHOP. THIS IS PART OF AN ARTISAN

CRAFTSMAN COMMUNITY


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behind the impressive infinity pool with views over the valley, is run by Salvatore’s sister Vivia and includes some of her own clothes alongside carefully selected items that she loves, including a selection of Santa Maria Novella fragrances, Ferragamo baby shoes and Siyu swimsuits. Viva’s clothes are loved by Gwyneth Paltrow and Kylie Minogue and I couldn’t resist a reasonably priced cotton shift dress, which was perfect for the Tuscan summer weather. If you want a wider selection of Italian fashion, then the resort will arrange a shopping trip for you to the nearby luxury brand outlets. Back at the jewellers, Massimo is adding the final touches to the pendant I have helped him create. “Do you want me to add an inscription?” he asks before carefully engraving my daughter’s name in serif script. As he finishes, I remember there is a tiny diamond missing from my engagement ring. I show him. “Do you think you could replace this with a coloured stone?” I ask. “How about a sapphire?” he suggests, pulling out a tray of precious stones at about the right diameter for my ring. Within minutes he has set the stone and restored the somewhat bent gold to a perfectly round ring. I take a card. I now know where to come if another item of my jewellery collection needs fixing. It’ll be a good excuse to return to this unique resort.

Il Borro, which is high in the Tuscan hills 12 miles from Arezzo and 30 miles from Florence, has its own private airstrip and you can land here in a small aircraft or helicopter. It is not just a luxurious place to stay, but a working wine estate which also produces olive oil and organic vegetables to serve at the tables of its Tuscan Bistro and fine-dining Osteria del Borro. The wine production is completely organic and Salvatore is experimenting with biodynamic production, which involves ploughing the vineyard with horse-drawn carts and picking and pruning according to the lunar cycles. The art and wine tour is one of the most popular activities for guests staying here. It involves a view of Ferruccio’s private collection of wine-themed paintings and etchings – among which are works by Rubens, Rembrandt, Goya, Manet, Picasso and Warhol – followed by a walk through the cellars and a tasting of the different wines produced from the 45 hectares of vineyard. The aromatic Chardonnay Lamelle is perfect for drinking on the terrace on a sunny afternoon, while the classic Il Borro, which is 50% merlot, 35% cabernet, 10% syrah and 5% petit verdot, is ideal paired with steak or tomato pasta. The wine is for sale in a little shop called La Bottega along with some choice items from the Ferragamo fashion label. Another shop, situated

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The

barre essentials From Viking swords to ballet shoes, Gaia Weiss’s versatility knows no boundaries Words: Rachel Ingram

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s a talented actress with natural good looks it could be easy to make assumptions of Gaia Weiss, but there’s a lot more to the Parisian beauty than her blonde locks and feminine physique. She’s smart, she’s cultured and, most intriguingly, she harbours a secret talent that defines her very essence. Long before she started acting, Gaia was a trained ballerina. While the lure of silver screen eventually drew her away from the dance stage, mastering such an emotionally and physically testing skill at a young age has provided Gaia with a tenacious edge that’s seen her snap up roles on shows and movies such as Vikings, The Legend of Hercules and Overdrive. Her graceful mannerisms and inner grit are delightfully obvious in the 25-year-old’s every move, and it’s clear why her nuanced tough girl characters have transfixed co-stars and viewers alike. Now, ten years after leaving the ballet world, Gaia has dusted off her ballet shoes for a special film collaboration with award-winning composer and classical musician Fabio D’Andrea. The conceptual music video, Statues, created for Fabio’s ‘Piece in D Minor’, sees Gaia take on the role of a beautiful ballerina who dances with ‘statues’ as they come to life. The mesmerising short film could be a metaphor for Gaia reuniting with her long-lost art, as the dancers tell the story of a young girl dreaming of becoming a ballerina, while clever cinematography creates a surreal juxtaposition between the beauty of the melody and choreography and the ominous, dark tunnel setting. Fresh off the set, Gaia tells Tempus all about her artistic ambitions, love of dance and reuniting with her ballet shoes. »

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© Solenne Jakovsky

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Gaia in Statues

Tempus: When did you first become passionate about dance? Gaia Weiss: I started dancing at the age of four. I dreamed of becoming a professional ballerina but unfortunately when the time came to audition for the big schools I was told I didn't have the right body for it, and that I could never dream of becoming a prima ballerina. I stopped at 15-years-old and decided to continue performing, but this time as an actor. T: What do you love most about ballet, both as a spectator and as a trained dancer? G: To me, the ultimate beauty of ballet is the grace that emanates from a discipline that requires so much pain and suffering. The most talented dancers make it seem absolutely effortless, but so much emotion comes out of their performances. I experience a sense of freedom when I dance. Like other forms of art, it's very cathartic. T: Was there a famous ballerina you aspired to be like when you were growing up? G: I've always really admired Sylvie Guillem. Growing up I would watch the film Center Stage sometimes 15 times a day – I would learn the choreographies by heart. T: How has your experience as a ballerina influenced you as actor? G: Theatre and ballet are both platforms through which you can really express yourself. All my years of ballet taught me the discipline you should have in your life as a performer. In ballet, if I didn't stretch every morning my body wouldn't be able to follow. Actors also use their bodies to express emotions on screen or on stage to embody a character, so my experience as a ballerina definitely helps. It's easy to get lazy as an actor so I'm glad that previous experience made me a rigorous person. T: Tell us about the idea behind Statues’s choreography? G: This video isn't just music and dance put together to look pretty. It has a real storyline that we thought about together at the beginning of the process. When we submitted the idea to our wonderful choreographer Christopher Marney of this dreamlike world where a sort of ‘Alice in Wonderland’ character would encounter statues coming alive, he came up with loads of ideas. »

© Solenne Jakovsky

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TO ME, THE ULTIMATE BEAUTY OF BALLET IS THE GRACE THAT

Behind the scenes Fabio D’Andrea is one of Britain’s brightest young composers and pianists. His music brings classical music to a contemporary audience and has been highly acclaimed by critics – his last album, Reflection, made it into the top 10 of classical hits in the UK. Statues is part of a wider project for his upcoming record, a solo piano album of 24 original pieces. Tempus speaks with him about the making of the film and working with Gaia Weiss.

EMANATES FROM A DISCIPLINE THAT REQUIRES SO MUCH PAIN AND SUFFERING

Tempus: Please tell us a little about your upcoming album.

Fabio D’Andrea: In the past, many composers wrote 24 pieces, one in each key. I thought it would be nice to do that myself and put my stamp on the musical world. It’s not been done for a long time, so I wanted to revive this tradition. To go with some of the pieces, I am creating a series of videos which combine the mediums of dance, video, acting and music. I also wanted to invite some famous actors to be part of the videos. I’m working with people who have a love of the arts but are not known for their dance skills, so it really showcases their talents in a different light. T: Why did you choose to work with Gaia Weiss on this film? F: Gaia is very well known for being in Vikings and she’s got some amazing projects coming up, but most people don’t know that Gaia is a trained ballerina. Gaia is clearly very beautiful but she’s got an edginess to her as well, so I hope that I can bring that out somehow within the video. T: What is the concept behind the video? F: Gaia and I were chatting about concepts and we really liked the idea of having her in quite a gritty environment. I came up with the concept of having our dancers as statues and as she touched them they would turn to life and dance with her. And then at the end, she would see them still again and wonder if it was a dream. As a lot of my music is very relaxing, you tend to find it puts you in this kind of trance, a daydreaming state, so the connotations with the music go hand in hand. We wanted to juxtapose something that’s very beautiful with an environment that’s very raw and gritty. We were very fortunate in that we filmed in the Brunel Tunnel in London. It’s the first underground tunnel that was built in the world so it’s an interesting location. It looks quite surreal inside. T: Who choreographed the dance? F: I was very fortunate to have one of my close friends, Christopher Marney, choreograph it. He’s the artistic director at the Central School of Ballet and is one of the UK’s top choreographers at the moment. Chris had recently choreographed a ballet about Alexander McQueen, which is doing very well in London, and the four main dancers from the show are the ones that we chose to use for this video. It’s lovely. It has come out very well. It’s a nice start to the series of videos. T: What’s next? F: I’ve been working on a few other videos. The next one, that’s being completed at the moment, is quite a different concept. It tells the story of a young girl who’s with father and her mother has passed away, and she dreams of becoming a ballerina. But I won’t say anything more about that just yet. fabiodandrea.com

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Scan the code for a sneak preview of Statues, starring Gaia Weiss

Š Solenne Jakovsky

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T: Is classical music, like Fabio’s, a passion of yours? G: I love music and couldn't live without it. Not just classical, I love jazz and voices from the ’50s like Ella Fitzgerald and Dinah Washington. My biggest regret is not learning to play any instruments. T: What did growing up in France teach you about culture and the finer things in life? G: Like other European countries France has a beautiful, long history and a very rich culture. I feel extremely privileged to have been raised in Europe and to have been able to travel and discover other countries and cultures from a very young age. It's so easy and quick to go from one country to another. I'm very grateful to my parents, who have encouraged me to be curious and appreciate beautiful things. T: As a former model and a Fashion Week regular, how important is fashion to you? G: To be perfectly honest I find fashion nowadays to be utterly ridiculous most of the time. I will always prefer the classics. My everyday outfit is a nice pair of jeans in black or dark denim, an old band t shirt, a dark cashmere sweater when it gets cold, and a tweed or black tailored jacket. I'm a strong believer in 'less is more'. T: You’re fast becoming a recognised face in the public eye. How has your life changed as you’ve become more famous? G: My life hasn't changed much other than I'm travelling 10 times more often, but I've adapted to this lifestyle and I've got my habits in four different cities now. I try to stay discreet in regards to my personal life as people and magazines love to invent crazy relationships for you, so the less you feed them the better you'll be. T: What’s next for you? G: I am currently writing my own film, which will be my next big project. I’m really hoping to make it happen by the end of 2018. As an actress, I would love to play more politically engaged parts as that's always been the kind of cinema I've preferred – as well as, of course, artsy French films.

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S T Y L E THE CHANGING FACE OF FASHION WEEK ALL THAT GLITTERS TAILOR YOUR BEST SHOT

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IN OUR SUMMER STYLE GUIDE, WE PRESENT THE INSIDE SCOOP ON FASHION WEEK AND LOOK AT THE MOST STUNNING JEWELLERY COLLECTIONS OF THE MOMENT



The changing face of

fashion week From show cancellations, blurred gender lines and the new see now, buy now set-up of shows, the spring/summer 2018 fashion month is shaking up the industry Words: Naomi Chadderton

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Tom Ford

Calvin Klein at NYFW Calvin Klein at NYFW

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s this coming September welcomes the spring/ summer 2018 fashion weeks in New York, London, Milan and Paris, it’s the time of year again when top editors start prepping their wardrobes, booking in blow-dries and scheduling plane tickets to all corners of the globe. Yet this season there’s a change in the air, with the entire fashion week landscape going through a tremendous evolution. Over the past several years, the relevance of fashion week as currently conceived has been questioned on many levels – mainly due to digital access changing the game – which has led to show cancellations, labels changing fashion capitals and a growing number of mixed collections. Yet while the likes of Opening Ceremony, Tommy Hilfiger and Tom Ford hop-scotch from city to city to present their collections, designers shun fashion month all together in favour of Couture Week and schedules get shorter, there’s still much to look forward to in the world’s top fashion cities. Here’s what to look out for this season…

Rihanna

New York Au revoir Proenza Schouler, adieu Rodarte and good-bye Monique Lhuillier – New York Fashion Week has found itself in a state of flux as of late, with a number of its key shows defecting to Paris Couture Week. Even Tommy Hilfiger – one of the event’s most loyal devotees – is off to London this year. Strategic moves designed to make a bigger splash among more intimate audiences, enhance sales and increase their international visibility, the schedule has also been cut from eight days to seven due to various changes shaking up the readyto-wear world. Yet it isn’t all doom and gloom, as Tom Ford is back on the official NYFW calendar come September, and he’s ditching the see-nowbuy-now model he debuted last season in favour of a traditional S/ S18 show. Presenting on the opening day, he’ll also be joined by Raf Simons, who will be one of the main attractions when he shows his latest collection for Calvin Klein. Another major international name bringing her show back to town is Rihanna. Having shown her last two seasons of Fenty Puma by Rihanna in Paris, the hit maker is heading back to the US capital and if her previous shows are anything to go by, this will be quite the spectacle. Poised to close the event, dedicated fashion followers will also look forward to the Marc Jacobs S/S18 collection, who, always the industry’s great showman, can be relied on to see out the week in style.

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STYLE Givenchy FW17

Versace FW16

Versace FW16, Milan Fashion Week

Givenchy FW17

Paris

Milan

Still the darling of fashion month, Paris is perhaps the one city designers see the most value being tied to. Already setting the tone for romantic, ready-to-wear collections next season, Rodarte, Proenza Schouler and Monique Lhuillier have already showed their S/S 18 collections during Haute Couture Week earlier this year, yet there’s still much more to come from some of the industry’s biggest names. All eyes will be on Givenchy this season, as Clare Waight Keller – the brand’s first ever female artistic director – prepares to show her debut collection. Appointed in March to head up the house that Hubert de Givenchy built, Weller has teased us with a new direction for the brand with a black and white campaign shot by Steven Meisel. Her first full collection during PFW will include both men’s and womenswear, making Givenchy the first brand owned by LVMH to join the trend of combining the sexes. But more on that a bit later… Also debuting this PFW, we’ve got the first collection by Olivier Lapidus for Lanvin to look forward to. The 59-year-old Frenchman, who previously held roles at Balmain Homme and his father’s brand Maison Lapidus, succeeded Bouchra Jarrar earlier this year, who managed just a 16-month stint at the fashion house. Among rumours of slumping sales, The Business of Fashion reported that the brand is changing direction amid plans to revamp as a French Michael Kors.

When it comes to the Italian capital of fashion, there’s one trend that has taken hold over the last couple of seasons – and the trend of combining women’s and men’s shows looks set to continue well into S/S18. Tomas Maier jumpstarted this trend in September last year at his 15th anniversary show from Bottega Veneta, with Gucci’s Alessandro Michele quickly following suit with one 119-look extravaganza showcase. This year, Italian label Etro has already announced that its designers Veronica and Kean Etro will be combining the two sexes, and is touted to be one of the ones to watch when the fashion set hit Milan in September. »


Gigi Hadid and Tommy Hilfiger

Backstage at LFW

London Starting a full day after New York Fashion Week closes – a conscious move made by the CFDA so editors no longer have to take the red eye from New York to make London Fashion Week’s first show – this season’s event promises to be stronger than ever. Adding international flavour to LFW, and of course one of the biggest shows to watch, Emporio Armani will be staging its S/S18 show in London, followed by an uber-glam party to celebrate the unveiling of his newly-renovated Bond Street store. This is a big move by the Giorgio Armani, who hasn’t shown in London since 2006 when the Italian Stallion hosted his One Night Only event. Another designer crossing the pond, all eyes are on Tommy Hilfiger who will be closing London with his see-now-buy-now runway event. One that hit headlines last year when Gigi Hadid fronted his showcase in New York, this year Hilfiger will stage his TommyNow experiential runway on the Tuesday of LFW, picking the city’s Roundhouse concert venue as his stage. As always, Burberry is touted as a big show to watch on the Saturday night, with Christopher Bailey sticking to his new triedand-tested method of showing both men’s and women’s collections at the same time, while Roland Mouret will also be marking his 20th anniversary with a show in the British capital.


THE BROGUE COLLECTION

a l i f e t i m e o f r e f i n e m e n t . The discreet brogue motif epitomises a peerless marriage of modern design and timeless panache. The exquisite detail made possible by new craft, piercing the deep, rich tones of our Bridle Hide leather to reveal the brilliant London Tan calf beneath. To us, excellence is an endeavour without end. e t ti n g e r . to e ach th ei r own .

ETTINGER.CO.UK

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All that glitters The ultimate expression of love and luxury, Tempus explores why diamonds will never go out of style for jewellery house de Grisogono Words: Michelle Johnson

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STYLE

1,706 rare black diamonds adorn this statement piece

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arat, cut, colour and clarity. These four words sound like the ingredients to an easy recipe for perfection and yet for an expert jeweller, finding a flawless diamond is anything but simple. With so much variety inherent in these rare stones it would be natural to think that, as with so many jewels, fashion and trends play a part in the ideal. And while it’s true that colour variants come in and out of style the exacting standards of a paragon diamond are always exact. Why then, are we still so in love with diamonds? The gem’s emotional and social significance has remained true in the west ever since 1477 when the future Emperor Maximilian I secured his betrothal to Mary of Burgundy with a diamond ring. The priceless 69.42 carat diamond Richard Burton gave to Elizabeth Taylor on their engagement raised enough for the actress to build a hospital in Africa when she auctioned it following the couple’s divorce. Diamonds are also symbols of legacy; the Cullinan, once the largest in the world, was cut into both the Great and Lesser Stars of Africa which are now set in the British Crown. For Swiss luxury jeweller de Grisogono, diamonds

have remained at the very heart of the company since it was were founded by Fawaz Gruosi in 1993. “I love diamonds,” says Fawaz, who is also the creative director of the house. “I love their translucent crystalline silhouette. I love their purity, their perfection and the way in which billions of carbon atoms join in, giving rise to the most fascinating stones. I love their mineral beauty.” Fawaz’s latest ode to that beauty is the World of Diamonds collection that he debuted at this year’s Cannes Film Festival. The collections of necklaces, rings and earrings sets sparkling white and black diamonds against coloured gemstones such as emeralds and sapphires, but what really makes this collection stand out is the sculptural form that each piece takes. From art-deco style emerald earrings dropping down to each support a 5.17 carat emerald-cut white diamond to the delicate chandelier-shaped white diamond drop earrings that combine 1436 diamonds supporting 26 pear-cut white diamonds that never lose their elegance, there is a hint of nature to the floral forms that each piece takes on. It is most obviously seen in the High Jewellery ring, with its 12.18 carat pink diamond set between »

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Fawaz Gruosi


two pear-cut emeralds, seeming to bloom on a ring of 209 white diamonds. The collections necklaces are more dramatic still. Coiling seductively round the neck, the serpent-like Melody of Diamonds necklace combines 245.22 grams of white gold set with 1112 white diamonds and 1570 blue sapphires in an elegant gradient of colour that leads to a 42.53 carat pear-cut white diamond. It is a statement piece in the collection that pushes the boundaries of the trendiest catwalk shapes while bringing to mind the history of Cleopatra in its bold texture and regal shape. And of course, more necklaces replicate that scale-like texture with Fawaz’s beloved black diamonds, decorated with a contrasting blossom-like pattern of 43 navettecut white diamonds. For while a clear crystal never goes out of style, Fawaz is equally enamoured with the colour variants caused by impurities – such as nitrogen, which creates deep yellow or amber colours, or boron, responsible for the deep blue of the renowned Hope Diamond once owned by King Louis XIV in 1668 and infamously stolen and recut in 1791. Black diamonds, which are coloured by a number of trace impurities in the stone, have been in and out of fashion, and yet remain a favourite of Fawaz. “It is the history, the power and the vibrant strength of the Earth it embodies emotions, authenticity and radiance,” he says. “Diamonds are the rarest and most precious gem. Its mineral beauty is timeless.” Fawaz’s love of elegance and creativity has seen him continue to partner with silver screen stars and models, such as Nicole Kidman and Naomi Campbell, and hosting a number of annual parties from a glittering showcase at Cannes to his birthday celebrations near his family home in Sardinia. “When I put on my events I never think ‘commercial’ or that we have to sell. It’s a moment for me to invite my friends and my clients and say, ‘thank you’ – to make sure they’re happy and having fun,” he previously told Tempus. “I put a lot of love into [de Grisogono].” “I constantly took risks when I launched de Grisogono,” he says of first hitting the world stage with a range of black diamonds at a time when they were thought to be permanently out of fashion. “When I created pieces I basically did the opposite of what was accepted in the market at the time.” So, while diamonds remain an everlasting fixture in the world of fine jewellery – and, as the song goes, a girl’s best friend – Fawaz’s trailblazing designs will continue to break all the rules in the pursuit of perfection.

Femininity is epitomised in this 12.18 carat pink diamond ring

degrisogono.com

Pear and asscher-cut diamonds contrast beautifully in the Melody of Diamonds ring

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40 carats of emeralds embellish these sparkling art deco earrings

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TAILOR YOUR BEST SHOT The Glorious Twelfth offers the perfect opportunity to combine style with sportsmanship Words: Claire Zambuni 61


Armed with a William Evans gun, shooting never looked so stylish

William Skinner

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he start of the grouse season is heralded as the Glorious Twelfth, a key date in the British countryside calendar, when some of UK’s most affluent, experienced and wellconnected shots head to the moorlands for a day of shooting with family and friends. This wild bird is considered one of the toughest to shoot – reaching speeds of up to 70 miles per hour it’s flight is fast and unpredictable – and so the grouse hunt starts the British game season off with a real bang. Pun fully intended. Attending such a highly anticipated sporting event is, naturally, as much a social event as it is a display of skill, and so demands the appropriate attire. And what could ruffle a few better feathers among your style-savvy comrades than a handmade suit from Savile Row tailor Dege & Skinner? Established in 1865, family-owned Dege & Skinner is one of the most respected tailors on Savile Row, earning a Royal Warrant from The Queen. The house is headed up by managing director William Skinner. A shooting man himself, Skinner understands first-hand what a gun travelling to the grouse moor needs. “Our shooting suits have our trademarked ‘Phitwell Back’, designed in the 1930s by my grandfather,” Skinner tells Tempus. “He created it

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after his clients commented that they wanted a bit more comfort when shooting. By integrating a pleat on either side of the back of the suit jacket, and then integrating an elasticated thread connecting the pleats and lining, he allowed for expansion in the fabric when you take position to shoot. Then, when you bring the gun back down again, the elastic pulls the pleats back in together, thus maintaining the original shape of the jacket – and our customer’s sartorial elegance all round.” Not only does the bespoke tailoring allow for this ingenious feature, but means that suits can be made to last – an important consideration for Dege & Skinner’s clientele, many of whom will shoot for more than 30 days a year throughout the season. While various combinations are available for shooting suits, the most common by far is a jacket, waistcoat and breeks (plus twos or plus fours). Fully bespoke suits also offer more subtle advantages to the style-conscious shooter, allowing subtle tweaks in shape and design to make a suit one’s own. For these suits, it takes up to 60 hours over 12 weeks for tailors to hand-make in its entirety, and a Dege & Skinner suit can be expected to last for up to 20 years. For women shooters joining the hunt, bespoke suits offer an ease of tailoring that many stores can’t copy in


STYLE the traditionally male-dominated sport. One such master tailor is Brita Hirsch of Hirsch Tailoring, who says a formal shooting suit for women is a perfect challenge of material, fit and style. “Bespoke tailoring is all about the perfect fit, and the right materials,” she tells us, “Nowhere is the combination of both more relevant – and challenging - than when it comes to field wear.” However, it takes more than fit to create the perfect shooting outfit as using the right materials is also key. The cloth should match the occasion by nature, it needs to be hard-wearing and weather resistant. For this reason tweed is the material of choice when it comes to outdoor pursuits. Most of the cloth used is from the UK, much of it from Lovat Mill in Scotland, which designed their 150th anniversary tweed. If you don’t have the luxury of time, William Evans in St James’s is the place to go. This season, they launch their new St James’s tweed for men and for women which are available off the peg. British made, they are desirable for outwear due to the material being moisture-resistant and durable. The idea behind the new St James’s tweed is it’s young looking but with a traditional British tweed and fit. William Evans also launched the new St James’s shotgun this season, a collaboration with Italian gun making giants Perazzi, known for their strength and reliability and the gun of choice of Olympic champions Peter Wilson (GB) and Jessica Rossi (Italy), who were Gold medalists in the male and female Double Trap events respectively at London 2012. This collaboration marks yet another stamp of sartorial elegance to the gaming season, a time to celebrate the wild harvest in impeccable, and timeless, style. A well-tailored shooting jacket is a style essential

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I N D U L G E ROSÉ ON THE RISE IN THE STARS

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A CLASSIC, REVISITED

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FROM THE MUST-HAVE SUMMER DRINKS TO THE FINEST MICHELIN-STARRED RESTAURANTS, ‘INDULGE’ IS OUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO WINING AND DINING IN STYLE


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Rosé on the rise Here’s why we’re all drinking pink Words: Peter Dean

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t used to be a perennial problem come the Grand Prix. You’d secured your usual berth in the superyacht marina at Monaco, with a perfect eye-line of the new chicane. All your guests had made it, the sun was out, the fruits de mer piled high, and the wine? That was the problem. The wine was rosé, obviously, but until Brangelina took charge of Miraval, there was only one rosé that you could allow on board and that was Domaine Ott. For a while, it seemed to be the only house to take the pink stuff seriously. Now, however, rosé has been ‘premiumised’, which means that the winemaking has become more sophisticated. More interesting things are happening with the wines, there are more players in the market and the packaging has taken on a cooler edge. The price is also moving on up which is never a bad thing. I mean, who wants a tatty bottle of Tavel at sunset in legendary Californian beach bar Duke’s Malibu, no matter how delicious, when Miraval looks and tastes the part? Do you want to look like you’re scrimping? It used to be that rosé was simply a light, fresh summer wine made from the first pressing of grapes that would go on to make serious red wine; grapes such as syrah and grenache that could afford to lose a little flavour, give the winery some quick cash flow and go well with salads and light, summery food. Winemakers now, however, are experimenting much more – using wood to structure and age the wine, using reduction, concentration and so on to give us a wider range of styles. Houses like Château d’Esclans have raised the bar so that rosé is being treated as seriously as reds and whites. »

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ISN’T IT TIME YOU HAD A TASTE OF ST TROPEZ IN YOUR LIFE? The best rosé for your yacht The first wine to order from your importer is Garrus 2013 (£95, Handford Wines) the world’s most expensive and arguably the best from Château d’Esclans who also make the sublime Whispering Angel. Stow away some cases of Miraval 2016 (£19.95, Harvey Nichols) – ask for the magnums, naturally – and spare some time for Domaine Ott Clos Mireille Rosé 2016 (£34.80, Hedonism Wines). It’s worth noting that with rosé you do get what you pay for, so it’s always better to spend more than you think you should.

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INDULGE

From girls-only to #brosé Rosé sales have exploded worldwide with exports from Provence going through the roof. While the new-found boom in rosé was fuelled by millennial women and its image as ‘lady petrol’, this is all changing as many more men or #brosé take to the drink. The reasons are varied. First, millennials’ interest generally in prosecco and moscato has been on the wane. Second, the major Champagne houses such as Bollinger have been launching into the sparkling rosé market. Möet’s popular Ice brand, that has gone from zero to hero overnight, has just launched a rosé and is quite the bottle to be carrying in Miami or Dubai. Third, sommeliers have helped make it an allyear drink – particularly paired with molecular cuisine and dessert. Take the ‘premiumisation’ detailed previously, and it’s clear that this is making rosé that used to be a one-time sub-standard, low price generic category into a wine to be taken seriously – and that means by both sexes.

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In the

STARS Want to know what makes a restaurant truly amazing? The Michelin Guide’s Editor has all the answers

Words: Kashmira Gander

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he words “Michelin star” can conjure up very different emotions depending on the person you are speaking to. To chefs who have recently been awarded the highlysought after accolade, it fills them with indescribable pride – the foodie equivalent of winning an Oscar. For those who have had theirs stripped away, it’s a bitter sign of failure. For customers, it’s a marker that a joint is offering world-class fare. The woman in control of it all – in the UK and Ireland, at least – is Rebecca Burr. As the editor of the Michelin Guide Great Britain and Ireland she has the power to make or break restaurants across the British Isles. Since taking the position in the Nineties, she – like other reviewers – has eaten in about 250 restaurants each year. So she knows a thing or two about what makes a restaurant exceptional. Tempus spoke to her to find out her criteria for judging a chef and whether her friends are brave enough to have her over for dinner. »

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Michelin-starred fare at The Hand and Flowers


Tempus: What’s it like to have what sounds like the best job in the world? How many restaurants do you visit a year on average? Rebecca Burr: On average, inspectors are out on the road three weeks of a month, including weekends. We are advised to eat three meals a day at top class places, as well as more simple places in between – so it’s not all foie gras. We have lunch and dinner every day and note down other places to visit. Over the year we average at 250 to 300 places. We’re very fortunate! It must be one of the best jobs in the world. But we don’t get special rates unlike critics and don’t go in the first month of a restaurant opening unless we’re close to a guide deadline and we know the chef and we want to include them. We want to be undetected and book anonymously for a true experience. T: How does a person end up becoming a Michelin inspector? R: It was 1998 when I joined the company so I have a similar background to all inspectors. We all have some formal training at a hotel or restaurant or in the wine business, or on the ground experience as a chef. These people have an inherent understanding of what goes into a business and that some places get an off day and the trials and tribulations you have to undergo to work in this business. T: What is your criteria when assessing a restaurant? R: It’s very fluid as every place is different. We have a few guidelines, including consistency across the menu. We’ll visit a candidate many times to make make sure the chef cooks all of his or her dishes the same every time. That’s really important. Value for money is a criteria that sometimes shocks people. We check that they are charging the correct amount. That’s important. We also look for the flair and technical skill involved and the quality of the food. T: How hard is it to conceal your identity? Is it hard not being able to have a presence on social media? R: If I meet a new group of friends and I say I’m not on Facebook and people sometimes say “come on, you need to get with it!”. But I manage the Michelin social media account so I’m actually very on it! But I can’t say why I’m not online. In a social situation, I hope that the conversation changes when we speak about jobs. I’m not a good fibber. We try to be discreet. We are making a guide that we want to be reliable for our readers and we don’t want preferential treatment at all. Some of my colleagues make up lots of names and disguises, but I don’t myself. But it’s becoming less unusual for a person to travel and dine alone now so it’s harder to spot us. »

WE ALSO LOOK FOR THE FLAIR AND

TECHNICAL SKILL INVOLVED

AND THE QUALITY OF THE FOOD

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INDULGE

Tom Kerridge

Michelin-starred dining in London There are two restaurants in London that currently hold the coveted three Michelin stars. Here’s why.

Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester Set in one of London’s most iconic hotels, this restaurant has become a benchmark for fine dining in the capital. Ducasse is the world’s most decorated living chef and, rightly so, given the brilliance of the dishes that emerge from his kitchen. The seven-course tasting menu is the one to order, as it showcases the ultimate in contemporary French cuisine. alainducasse-dorchester.com

Restaurant Gordon Ramsay The original and still the best. Forget about some of the sweary chef ’s more questionable brand extensions and instead revel in the luxurious and intimate surrounds of this Chelsea institution. The signature poached ravioli of lobster, salmon and langoustine is a must-order but, frankly, everything on the menu is created with such technical brilliance that you can see why every chef in the land would love to have this place on their CV. Ramsay is still making magic happen. gordonramsayrestaurants.com

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T: What has been your favourite experience as a Michelin inspector so far? R: I’m very fortunate to go to the top restaurants all over the world. It’s hard to name names because I think it depends on who you’re with and the occasion and what you want to spend. There are super little places in the UK with husband and wife teams who give 100 per cent to the business and some cracking pubs. When I first started it first started no one detected the talent of Tom Kerridge and The Hand and Flowers. It was a highlight when we saw him settle in at a ramshackle pub. We thought this guy will go places and I was delighted we were the first to acknowledge him. That’s still the only pub still with two stars. That was a highlight. I hadn’t taken over too long as editor and I spoke to some French colleagues and they were very suspicious of what this new girl was proposing and they were taken aback. T: Tell us about your worst experiences. R: I think I entered the company in the good years. My predecessor who did it for 30 years, some of the stories from the Seventies were just horrendous. The menus were pages long. Back in the day when you didn’t have a phone to distract you you’d take a newspaper to a restaurant. On one occasion an inspector was offered a newspaper at lunch and set it on fire. He never lived it down. Now, sometimes there can be a lot of hype around a new opening and we’ll go two months after it opened and can’t see what all the fuss is about. I know a few high-profile restaurants charging a lot of money and they didn’t make it into our guide because the food just wasn’t star-level. We’ve got a lot of very good standard restaurants in the UK, and London is looked at as top destination in the world. It’s a real melting pot of different cuisines. T: What should diners in the UK be excited about? R: We have another guide, which is the Bib Gourmand that lists meals that are three courses for under £28. That’s the stamp of really good value modem cooking. Some chefs aren’t bothered about a star but they want a Bib Gourmand. So there are some really fantastic gems in the collection. I think we continue to find reasonably priced places in London that put pressure on rest of country. There are a lot of really nice lunch deals in starred restaurants with set menus and we know that a lot of diners like those. They’re a really good deal and that seems quite hidden around the country. Bristol is really on the up – we have a massive selection of really talented chefs there. T: Do any of your friends ever invite you over for dinner? R: Friends do invite me out. Friends know I’m happy if anyone offers to cook for me and were not that precious. T: What do you cook at home? R: That’s a dreaded question! Not as much as I used to. We all need downtime so I tend to go to the gym more than I cook at home! I couldn’t possibly master some of the dishes that I have out. But if I’m in Devon or Cornwall or the west coast of Scotland I will always buy good fish and grill it. I know a lot of inspectors who enjoy doing that.

Credit Kashmira Gander, The Independent

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A classic, revisited J Sheekey’s summer terrace is a haven of calm in London’s bustling West End Words: Scott Manson

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t may not be London’ s oldest restaurant (that prize goes to Rules on Maiden Lane) but, since launching in 1896, it’s become one of the capital’s most venerable dining spots. It began when Lord Salisbury gave Josef Sheekey permission to sell fish and shellfish in St Martin’s Court on the proviso that he also served dinner to the Lord’s friends, who were visiting the area’s nearby theatres. It’s fitting, then, that Sheekey’s is still seen as something of a hotspot for visiting actors, with its handy location to most of London’s playhouses seeing many stars of stage and screen visit over the years. In fact, it’s said that Nicole Kidman ate there most nights when she was treading the boards in London a few years back. For a summer daytime visit, though, nothing beats the people-watching possibilities of lunch on its newly refurbished 50-seater terrace – now called the Atlantic Bar and Terrace. It’s disconcerting at first – you’re in the busy heart of the West End after all – but the comfy seats, box hedging and seasonal flowers help to separate you from the flow of human traffic and, in truth, make you feel rather smug. As shoppers hustle about, you are comfortably plotted up for the afternoon with a bottle of rosé and a pile of shellfish. It’s the perfect lazy lunch. We ate with gusto, starting with a glass of Champagne and some quiveringly fresh native oysters, while also tearing through some beautiful bread slathered in salty butter. A half pint of fresh, pink Atlantic prawns was also peeled and wolfed down (thank goodness for the regular arrivals of finger bowls). Top choice, though, goes to the whole Devon cock crab, a giant crustacean that drew admiring glances from other tables and whose shell was full of beautiful white crab meat and punchy brown meat, the latter being spread on more of that superb bread. The little touches helped here too – quality china crockery, heavy cutlery, lobster crackers and cute forks, plus lemon halves wrapped in muslin. Everything was just so, including the service. It seemed I only had to think of something – “perhaps we should get some more water?” – and the diligent waiter was there by our side. The day had turned to early evening by the time we finally left our table and, as the outdoor heaters fired up, I was almost tempted to linger longer. But no, someone else deserved their turn in this permanently popular slice of alfresco loveliness. jsheekeyatlanticbar.co.uk

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A winning formula Tottenham Hotspur and Levy Restaurants UK partner with the Roux family to provide world-class dining experience at the club’s new stadium

Tottenham Hotspur and its official catering partner, Levy Restaurants UK, have announced the Roux family will be bringing its world-renowned fine dining experience to the club’s new stadium. Set to open next year, the 61,559-capacity venue will become London’s most unique sports and entertainment destination. Furthermore, the club aims to revolutionise the match day experience and set a new benchmark for its premium offerings with a wide range of lounges and suites. The Roux family will further enhance the premium experience by designing selected menus and overseeing every aspect of the service delivery within the stadium’s prestigious On Four lounges and suites – located on level four of the venue. The On Four concept aims to redefine the premium experience within sports and entertainment, with Michelin-calibre dining and exclusive Chef ’s Table and Player’s Table dining experiences. Guests will also enjoy exceptional surroundings, attentive service and great seats and views to enjoy the match. On Four will boast a UK first hospitality concept, Loge On Four, a series of semi-private booths boasting extraordinary dining experiences, a complimentary bar, behind the scenes access and almost unrivalled views of the pitch.

Designed to deliver the privacy and quality of an executive box with the atmosphere of a vibrant club lounge, the Loge Suites give you the perfect chance for face-to face time with guests and clients. Suites are accessible three hours before and two hours after each match, and there’s valet parking and private drop off and pick up through the club-managed limousine service, so there’s no chance an invitation will go unanswered. Also on offer is access to The H Club, potentially the best experience in world football. Only 180 seats are available directly on the halfway line, and as membership grants access to two of these seats, with only 90 founding members, The H Club is on course to become the most exclusive ‘Club within a Club’ in the world. The hospitality will rival some of London’s most renowned private members clubs, and the level of flexibility promises to outstrip any other Premier League experience of a similar calibre. In short, first-class, redefined. If you would like to receive more information about the On Four experiences, register your interest by emailing: onfour@tottenhamhotspur.com. new-stadium.tottenhamhotspur.com

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ADVERTORIAL

Super Suite

H club

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E S C A P E SINGING THE BLUES

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ISLAND DREAMING

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A WELLNESS REVOLUTION RETURN TO THE RIVIERA

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WE TRAVEL FROM THE ISLANDS OF THE CARIBBEAN TO THE COAST OF AFRICA IN SEARCH OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL HOLIDAY DESTINATIONS ON THE PLANET

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SINGING the

BLUES Essque Zalu Zanzibar offers a kaleidoscopic sight we’ll never forget Words: Mark Southern

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ou know that blue? That special kind you don’t see all that often. Mainly because it only emerges on occasion across rare British summer skies, around 5:30am, offering the kind of filter to life that Instagram never will match. It’s got a verve to it that enlivens the soul. OK, well you know that blue? Now imagine there was an island where that colour wouldn’t even get to the judges’ houses stage of ‘Colour Factor’. Essque Zalu Zanzibar is that place. Nestled into a natural cove on the North-east coast of the Tanzanian archipelago of Zanzibar, the hotel has the most wonderful spectrum of colours. It doesn’t stop surprising you from the moment you arrive to the moment they reluctantly drag you away from the place. The hotel is built around a 40-metre high and 50-metre long thatched canopy that’s been hand-crafted from local wood. Visible from five miles away, it rises majestically above the resort, draping a cool shade over the terracotta tiles that lie below. It takes something to knock that stunning entrance down the billing, and what emerges when we walk through the canopy is our first exposure to the explosion of primary colour by Mother Nature herself. The blue starts with an inviting pool that opens narrowly and works its way out to sea like an outstretched arm saying, “go on, take a look at that”. Quite an arrogant swimming pool, but it’s got a point. It’s breath-taking. The ocean opens up with an other-worldly

turquoise, blending into a royal blue and then into a kind of luminescent midnight, and everything in between. When it hits the horizon, it chemically contorts itself to an almost mirror image of itself, as it merges its delicate colour palette into the heavens above. Frankly, Farrow and Ball needs to up their game. The only thing that breaks up the stunning view is the private 100-metre wooden jetty that juts out through the rocky sand and into the distance. Like an ancient mariner, the ocean drags you forward towards the pier, where you’ll find a super cool lounge bar at the end, with the relaxed vibe of a Roger Moore Bond movie. Funnily enough, we try out a cocktail making class on our trip and end up making vodka martinis in honour of the dearly departed (and, in this writer’s opinion, definitive) 007. There are only a couple of dozen villas dotted around the resort, with smart use of garden landscaping providing complete privacy for every single one. The spacious villas offer respite from the tropical heat, although there’s no getting away from ‘The Blue’, which shines through and throws up cool colours against the whitewashed walls. Food is served in three restaurants – a poolside bar for snacks, a fine dining experience, which does very well with the sometimes limited local produce and the obscenely good seafood, and a more relaxed BBQ-style dining outlet at the end of the jetty. The Swedish culinary director Jussi Hussa brings European sensibilities to an African menu, and creates genuinely unique and interesting flavours. He also personally runs a cookery class, which is recommended.

The dazzling infinity pool overlooking the Indian Ocean

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QUITE AN ARROGANT SWIMMING POOL, BUT IT’S GOT A POINT.

IT’S BREATH-TAKING

African pampering at its best awaits at the spa And then just when you think you’ve got the whole blue thing down, the resort then shows its creative core. One of the great joys of life is surprise, and it is here that general manager Duarte Correia shows his own flair in taking this astonishing setting and turning it into something truly remarkable. One highly recommended experience is the alfresco movie screening. Set in a private glade, overlooking the ocean and nothing else, candle lights guide you to a table for two, where a tasting menu, cooked to your personal choices, is brought out course after course. When you’re nearly ready to tap out, you’re invited to move to the day beds for coffee, where your favourite movie plays on a projector and giant screen. It’s hard to look forward to a regular cinema ever again. Another must-try activity is the Maasai Ritual, which takes place in an authentic small village situated inside the hotel. Here, you are guided through a spa experience unlike anything you’ll have seen before, soundtracked not by a panpipes CD, but by the rhythmic chanting of four Maasai warriors. As you move from treatment to treatment and tent to tent, their intensity rises and falls with the ambience. It’s quite something. There is something about any African trip that delights, even when it is imperfect. This lacks those kind of imperfections, and is instead a perfect oasis of relaxation against the most beautiful backdrop you will ever see. Seriously, those colours… Culinary hotspot Market Kitchen

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Island dreaming Sugar, spice and all things nice await at this Caribbean paradise in Grenada Words: Shaun Prince

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ovingly known as the “spice isle”, Grenada is famous for its nutmeg and cocoa plantations, but there’s more to the island than spice and chocolate. The island is bursting with flavour, in terms of aesthetic, fare and attitude. One night here and the stresses of city life will melt away faster than you can say “another rum please”. Of all of Grenada’s 45 beaches, Grand Anse Beach is arguably the most picturesque. Along this world-famous sandy shoreline lies the Spice Island Beach Resort. An ideal retreat for those seeking an authentic yet luxurious Caribbean escape, the resort is set among nature, surrounded by a luscious tropical landscape of lemon, almond and sea-grape trees. A strong “spice” theme wafts through the hotel, flavouring everything from the personalities of the suites to the products in the spa. Choose to stay in one of the Royal Collection Suites – Ginger, Mace, Clove or Sage – or select from a beautiful portfolio of luxury pool, beach and garden suites. From palatial mini-villas with exclusive pools and marble

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bathrooms to beachside properties where you can step from your private patio onto the sand, there’s something for everybody. Facilities are also second to none. A trip to the luxurious Janissa’s Spa should be one of the first things on every guest’s itinerary. Here, therapists perform treatments using local herbs and spices, which are excellent for beating jet lag. When the sun goes down, head straight to the hotel’s gourmet restaurant and indulge in delicious Creole cuisine while enjoying live music by Grenada’s best calypso, reggae and steel bands – an experience to remember. As people in the Caribbean don’t believe in creating unnecessary headaches, the resort is fully inclusive. From gourmet meals on the beachfront and sunset drinks by the sea, to ocean kayaking and everything in between, everything is included in the rate. So leave your cash, and your worries, in the safe and relax into island life the way it should be – stress free. spiceislandresort.com


ESCAPE

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A wellness

revolution

Tempus discovers what you get when you cross highly personalised health and nutrition with the glorious south coast of Spain at Healthouse Las Dunas Words: Mark Southern

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hat’s the least sexy phrase in travel? “Time share”? Nope. “Shared towels”? Gross, but wrong again. “Brand extensions”, on the other hand – four syllables of cynical cash-ins to a captive audience, guaranteeing certain disappointment. But, as it turns out, not always. Healthy eating readers may be familiar with Naturhouse, the innovative nutritionalists, responsible for revolutionising the way four million people around the world eat. The brand made its name for its highly personalised diet plans and herbal supplements, but have now launched a travel version of its concept in the form of Healthouse Las Dunas. The fitness resort is located just outside of Estepona, a short drive from Marbella in southern Spain. Tucked away down a winding private driveway in a secluded cove, the imposing building has something of a grand Spanish villa about it, with the relaxed sprawl of a hotel more concerned with calming spaces than maxing out the bedroom count. The 54 deluxe suites offer understated quality and outrageous sea views, with the long roaming white corridors giving a sense of purpose, without ever really needing to get anywhere. Rather than a shameless lending of its name, Naturhouse has crafted a travel experience from the ground up, with their successful concept at its core. Once settled in, guests are essentially floated along for a consultation, which takes every measurement you can possibly think of, before a highly individualised plan is created.

After the consultation, the experienced nutritionalist talks us through our unique body composition, and how altering diet can make a life-changing difference to our health and fitness, and general energy levels. This is explained while we are given a handful of supplements to take throughout the trip, to aid results. And that’s pretty much all the science we had to worry about for the remainder of the entire experience, as the hotel then seamlessly shifts into gear around us without us even realising. Never have we had as much time and space to ourselves in a luxury hotel, as for vast amounts

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of time the only sign of life comes from the reassuring Mediterranean waves, as they lap the resort’s private beach. However, at regular intervals the subtle tones of a friendly team member remind us it’s time to eat, and we head to the stunning courtyard, to find multiple courses of uber healthy meals, each to our individual specification ready for us. It’s worth pointing out that at this stage that while the food couldn’t be healthier, it also ranks highly for taste. This should be of no surprise when you discover that the head chef is twoMichelin-starred chef Andoni Luis Aduriz, »


Find peace and tranquility at the spa whose restaurant Mugaritz in San Sebastian has been named as the sixth-best restaurant in the world. Cuisine is smart and clever, and often amusingly presented, with the kitchen making full use of a variety of gizmos to take food we would have once recognised as one thing into something else entirely, with a bubble machine a particularly cool way of presenting humble soup. Throughout the experience we wear FitBit bracelets, which are linked up to our phones to provide an accurate reading of sleep and exercise during the trip, with regular prompts to keep on plan. They add to the experience rather than detract, and it’s a nice touch that all guests keep these £150 gadgets afterwards as a helpful aid in keeping the gains. At the end of an almost impossibly relaxing trip we revisit the consultant who takes final readings. We are surprised to find out we have lost 2kg in just five days of doing mostly very little, and even more noticeable is the five years that seem to have fallen off our faces. While it hasn’t changed this writer’s opinion about the majority of product tie-ins, Healthouse by Naturhouse is a real game-changer for anyone seeking expert help to make a difference to their life, and have a super chilled time doing it. healthouse-naturhouse.com

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Add Spice to Your Grenada Getaway

With well-appointed suites directly on the beach & Luxurious Private Pool suites Contact your travel agent for details.

Toll free from the United Kingdom: 0808-189-0088 | Toll free from the USA & Canada: 1-800-501-8603 or email reservations@spicebeachresort.com | SpiceIslandBeachResort.com 91


Return to the

RIVIERA

Orestone Manor is a jewel in the heart of picturesque south Devon Words: Scott Manson

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here was a time when British seaside resorts such as Eastbourne and Torquay were the Ibiza of their day. Granted, glitter cannons, all-night parties and lithe, gym-cut young things swigging magnums of rosé were in short supply, but these trad towns used to be seriously fashionable. Now, things have come full circle, led by the early adopter that is cosmopolitan Brighton and, more recently, the unlikely hipster enclave of Margate. On the strength of a recent visit to Torbay’s Orestone Manor, only four miles from Torquay, it’s clear that the ‘English Riviera’ could be in vogue sooner than you might imagine. On first glance, the hotel is solidly traditional. A Georgian pile built by an acclaimed painter, who was also brother-in-law of Isambard Kingdom Brunel, whose portrait, now in the National Portrait Gallery, he painted in this house. Independently owned by a husband and wife who are former chefs, it offers beautiful views of Lyme Bay and the tranquil, verdant surrounding countryside, plus the delights of nearby Maidencombe Beach. A word to the wise – there’s a steepish hike back up from the beach so take a load off half way at the lovely local pub, The Thatched Tavern. Grab a table in the sunny garden for Sunday lunch if you can. In truth, though, you’d be forgiven for spending most of your time at the hotel, such is its loveliness. Our room was one of the new split level cottages with modern fittings, a king size bed, a flat screen TV and funky mood lighting

in the downstairs section. Upstairs offered a kitchenette (with a smart coffee machine), a freestanding bath and a sun terrace. The winning aspect? This accolade goes to the hot tub on the bigger balcony below, which also featured mood lighting and varying jet speeds, providing a perfect massage for my legs following that big hike up from the beach below. Dinner that evening in the double AA Rosetteawarded restaurant was similarly impressive, and reasonably priced given the quality of food on offer. No less than you’d expect, however, from a hotel run by two chefs. South Devon is also known as a great centre for quality produce, and the menu reflected this with a ‘source local’ approach. From the splendidly named (and delicious) Brixham crab Martini, which combined avocado, mango ice, crab meat and poppy seed straw to brilliant effect, to the pan roasted sirloin of Fluder Farm Dexter beef, everything was spot on. The latter, for the uninitiated (as I was) is a hardy, miniature native breed that travels just three miles from field to plate. This, I concluded, was a happy cow. Happiness is in abundance at this place. From the person who checked us in, to the cheery landlord eager to explain the site’s history, there is a delightful energy and spirit about Orestone Manor. One that’s entirely fitting with the phoenix-like rise of the English Riviera. orestonemanor.com

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M O V E RESHUFFLING THE DECK A CERTAIN VINTAGE TAKING FLIGHT

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FROM PRICELESS CLASSIC CARS TO ULTRA-MODERN SUPERYACHTS, HERE’S WHAT YOU SHOULD BE DRIVING (OR FLYING) THIS SUMMER


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Reshuffling the

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With female wealth on the rise, might the male-dominated world of superyachting be ripe for a shake up? Words: Dominique Afacan

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here are now almost 300 female billionaires in the world, compared to a paltry 11 back in the year 2000. More still sit in the ultra-high-net-worth bracket, making them totally capable of buying or chartering a yacht. And yet, superyachting can still feel like a man’s world. Flick through the glossy marketing brochures, where girls exist only to model on deck in skimpy bikinis, or listen to the sales patter, which invariably speaks of the ‘owner and his wife’ – and this whole industry appears to revolve around the boys and their toys. »

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Happily, there is evidence out there to suggest that times are changing. For starters, more and more women are opting to charter superyachts, among them many well-known faces. Victoria Swarovski, heiress to the famed crystal brand, spent her honeymoon cruising around Sardinia in a 26m San Lorenzo. Cindy Crawford, meanwhile, recently chartered Aria Amazon for an exotic family holiday and fellow supermodel Naomi Campbell is frequently spotted on board charter yachts all over the world, with the 56m yacht Galaxy a personal favourite. In a world where anonymity is highly prized, many more fly under the radar. Rose Damen, commercial director at leading yacht builder AMELS, agrees that the future looks bright. “Even though it’s still a male-dominated market, things are changing – from owners down to crews and management firms,” she says. The family-owned shipyard, which recently launched the 83m Here Comes the Sun to great fanfare, claims that many of their yachts are owned by women already. “I’m sure we will see more and more,” adds Damen. “Partly just as the result of more of us becoming successful entrepreneurs.” Damen herself knows a thing or two about being a female in a man’s world, thanks to her background in finance. “Before joining the family business I worked as a fund manager in London which is pretty male dominated. At any work event there was never any queuing for the ladies’ toilets,” she jokes. Now, with mainly men reporting in to her at AMELS, she is unphased, although she does offer some sage advice for the wider industry. “I do feel it could do more to make sure that top women entrepreneurs feel welcome on the yachting scene,” she says. The question is, where to begin? Tammy Darby, whose family owns and operates St Kitts’ exclusive Christophe Harbour and is herself a superyacht owner, thinks the answer begins with marketing. “Pick up any yachting publication or advertisement, and it’s clear who the target market is,” she says. “More family-focused stories are being written, which is a plus, but it would be a welcome change to see more articles about women owners specifically and how they’ve risen to the challenges of ownership. The perception can change, but not without a focused effort by yachting media and industry leaders.” Yacht brokerage Edmiston are one such industry leader, with the recent €47.5m (£42.5m) sale of 75m Enigma to show for it. Carl Richardson, the company’s head of communications, thinks there’s a yacht ownership issue that goes beyond gender. “Women have always played a central role in yachting. It might be portrayed as a male pursuit in certain quarters, but the truth is different. One of our most recent and high-profile new build projects was undertaken by a woman. The industry needs to reach people who are less experienced in yachting, full stop,” he says. “It’s not about gender; it is about people, family, and friends.” »

Rose Damen

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Tammy Darby

EVEN THOUGH IT’S STILL A MALE-DOMINATED MARKET,

THINGS ARE CHANGING

– FROM OWNERS DOWN TO CREWS AND MANAGEMENT FIRMS

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Emmeline Payne

Sherron Hemsley, owns both a motoryacht and a sailing yacht with her husband, and is a perfect example of the family-style ownership Richardson is talking about. “Owning a boat has always been something that Stephen and I have done together and as a family,” she explains. “A boat to me is a sanctuary and my happy place to spend time with our family and good friends. I have always found the superyacht industry really supportive of females.” A recent girlsonly charter trip to Mallorca, however, did raise some eyebrows. “I do think that some people were trying to work out who we were and where the men were!” she jokes. Emmeline Payne, a captain at British yacht builders Sunseeker, is further evidence of an industry that is beginning to be more inclusive. When she trained at the Warsash Maritime Academy 12 years ago, she was the only girl in a class of 25, but on a recent trip back, she was surprised to see a big jump in the number of female students. “Even though I grew up in a seafaring town, the possibilities of a career at sea were never highlighted to me,” she recalls. “Instead, we were told about nursing and secretarial roles. Seeing more girls there gives me hope that things are changing.” Now fully established in a senior position at Sunseeker, she encounters no discrimination at all, but she recognizes that barriers do definitely exist for women trying to climb the ladder in the industry. “Many of the more senior jobs advertised are for males only due to cabin arrangements,” she explains, “so there is always the stigma that when someone sees a young female on a yacht, they assume she is a stewardess.” These assumptions may be relatively short-lived; the number of females enrolling on flagship courses is higher than ever, which in turn will affect cabin allocations. Similar assumptions, of course, apply to female superyacht owners. But with women predicted to control $72.1 trillion globally by 2020, perhaps the tides are turning.

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A certain

vintage Pounding priceless cars around the Le Mans circuit was an opportunity too good for Tempus to miss, so we went along for the ride Words: Adam Hay-Nicholls

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here’s an almighty racket in the distance, and it’s thanks to Coldplay. Specifically, the band’s bassist Guy Berryman. The instrument he’s tuning up, though, is his silver Ferrari Dino 246 GT and he’s about to head onto the Circuit de la Sarthe, better known as Le Mans. Guy and scores of other classic car enthusiasts are spending the week roaring around France and early this morning, under battleship grey and foreboding skies, they left Paris’s Grand Palais at an ungodly hour to arrive at this cathedral to motorsport and endurance. I’m still brushing the sleep from eyes when a mk1 Porsche 911 rounds a corner and nearly runs me over. You can’t come to Le Mans and not think about Steve McQueen. His movie, of the same title, was the ultimate Hollywood vanity project but it also established the archetypal image of the macho gentleman racer. The Zenith Tour Auto Optic 2000 attracts exactly that, young and old, from around the globe, all linked by a passion for fast classic cars and, one assumes, the bank balance to fund it. This was the 26th running of the 2,500km five-day marathon, and each of the 242 cars entered has a story to tell. Berryman’s Dino, for example, ran out of fuel a couple of days earlier, and while his co-driver marched off with a jerry can Guy was surrounded by French ladies in traditional dress cheerfully offering him oysters. The best road trip stories are the ones you can’t make up. »

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“There’s a real gang spirit,” confirms Guy, “and everyone’s here to help each other through and have a good time.” The musician (who owns a barn full of classic Ferraris) was far from the biggest draw of the drivers, though. Fivetime Le Mans 24 Hours winner Derek Bell and 1981 World Rally Champion and multi Paris-Dakar winner Ari Vatanen took the brunt of the autographing duties. Under the barrel-vaulted iron, steel and glass roof of the Grand Palais, home to Chanel’s most spectacular shows, the cars looked like supermodels. Among them, the most valuable hand-crafted bodies ever created, like the Ferrari 250 GT Tour de France, built for the legendary rally this tour follows the tyre tracks of. All the cars here fit into a 1951 to 1973 timeframe. The twisting country roads of the route sweep through Brittany and Saint-Malo, Limousin, Limoges, Toulouse and Biarritz. During the day, the cars

defy their age and look like the sprightly teenage dreams they were built to be, and at night they sit in the parc ferme on jacks and undergo open-heart surgery. Sponsors Zenith have capitalised on the evocative nature of this gathering to release the handsome Chronomaster El Primero Open Tour Auto, with the French Tricolore flowing from the matte slate-grey dial to its slate-grey bracelet. It’s a proud souvenir for the competitors, and helps them track their lap times around La Sarthe. Around Le Mans pound a group of priceless GT40s, legendary Fords built specifically for this track to destroy Ferrari 50 years ago. In 2016, Ford returned with an all-new state-of-the-art GT to recapture the crown. For the guys on the Tour Auto, though, the oldies are the best and Steve McQueen remains their patron saint. It’s all about living out those childhood fantasies, or those of their fathers.

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PAL-V Liberty Liberty – freedom from control, restriction and, now, gravity. Created by Dutch flying car developer PAL-V, this three-wheel gyrocopter has been in development for more than 15 years. Interchanging effortlessly between a car and a plane, the Liberty can reach 100 mph on the ground, and fly up to 11,480 feet in the air. It requires just 590 feet of space for a takeoff roll (compared to the thousands required by a plane). Powering it inside is an unique Rotex engine-based dual-propulsion drivetrain, while its moving parts are carefully tucked away for when needed – the rotors fold above the vehicle and propeller is compacted into the rear. But don’t think it’s as simple as driving along, pressing fly mode and you’re up, up and away. Firstly, it takes some time to switch between drive and fly modes – five to 10 minutes, engineers say. Secondly, operators are required to have a gyroplane pilot’s license to fly the vehicle, which makes full use of the latest developments in artificial intelligence. However, training sessions are included in the purchase package – which starts at $399,000 (£306,000) for the standard Liberty Sport and $599,000 (£460,000) for the Pioneer Edition. Test flights have been carried out since 2012 and now the PAL-V (which stands for Personal Air and Land Vehicle) are ready to start taking orders for the final product. Deliveries are due to roll out before the end of 2018 so place your order soon to be first in line. pal-v.com

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Taking

flight

Inspired by nature and engineered by mankind, the future of travel lies in hybrids Words: Rachel Ingram

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os Angeles. The City of Angels. Or for many, a more accurate synonym would be The City of Traffic. While not as sexy, this is a more realistic view of one of the most famously congested cities in the world. Unfortunately for urbanites, it’s not only sunny California that suffers. Mexico City, Bangkok, Beijing, Moscow, London... cities across the globe are facing a major pandemic as roads struggle to handle increasing numbers of drivers. To tackle the problem, we’ve gone underground and dug out thousands of miles of tunnels, but with many subway systems at maximum capacity, there’s one place left to explore, the sky. Airborne vehicles have been the stuff of science fiction stories for many decades, but ‘flying cars’ are set to become a reality, and sooner than you’d think. Battling issues such as congestion and emissions, driving-flying vehicles are the ultimate hybrid. Following the Goodwood Festival of Speed, we look at three revolutionary vehicle concepts set to take everyday travel to great heights.

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Italdesign-Airbus Pop.Up

THE CONCEPTUAL TWOPASSENGER POD BLURS THE LINES BETWEEN

CARS AND DRONES

The ‘pop up’ is a phrase usually reserved to describe a short-term dining or shopping outlet. Taking the phrase to a more literal extent is this futuristic hybrid driving-flying machine from Italdesign and Airbus, Pop.Up. The opposite of short-term, this vehicle is a solid example of the future of travel. Designed as a proposed solution to the urban traffic that slows down the world’s fastest cities, the conceptual two-passenger pod blurs the lines between cars and drones. Operators sit in a pod, from which they control a battery-powered ground module. Say they hit traffic or an emergency? They simply press a button to call the air module (powered by eight counter-rotating rotors) from a nearby charging station, which then, literally picks the passenger pod up by its roof and carries it to the final destination. What’s more, the modular concept vehicle is fully electric with zero emissions, making it good for the environment as well as for traffic-dodging. Pop.Up was unveiled at the Geneva Motor Show and while neither Airbus nor Italdesign have committed to a timeline to make their concept a reality, we’re just happy knowing it’s in the pipeline and that flying above the gridlock could, one, day, be the norm. It’s expected to be in the skies by 2030. italdesign.it

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VRCO Neo X-Craft Another major VTOL (vertical take-off and landing) machine is being made a little close to home, here in the UK. The Neo X-Craft, being developed by Nottingham-based company VRCO, is an innovative British designed and built “quadcopter”. While similar in concept to the Pop.Up, the key difference with the Neo X-Craft falls when it lands. Instead of having a separate driving and flying module, this vehicle’s propellers turn into wheels, meaning that it’s all in one piece. Utilising the power of a drone and the technology of a helicopter, this concept car is a true example of engineering genius. There’s also a host of smart features, such as an aerodynamic design to give it lift and even an emergency parachute. Techies were treated to a hologram presentation at the Goodwood Festival of Speed’s Future Lab last month. While there is no physical model yet, CEO and co-founder Daniel Hayes says the real thing could be on the road by 2020 if development goes smoothly and testing is successful. Hayes adds: “The VRCO NeoXCraft has the potential to transform our dependency on road infrastructure. Imagine in five years’ time seeing 10 air traffic lanes over Nottingham with vehicles flying in controlled corridors, safely interacting with each other. The concept will ease congestion on a massive scale, and as the vehicle is electric, we will see a significant reduction in Co2.” vrco.co.uk

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or over 20 years, Stanford Coachworks has dominated the field of British-made passenger vehicles. Specialising in premium custom-designed minibuses that are handcrafted right here in Britain, the company offers the perfect solution for long journeys. Spotting a gap in the market for high-end passenger vehicles in the UK, Stanford Coachworks has developed a new line of elite mini coaches, Monaco by Stanford. The ultra-luxurious vehicles are bespoke, with a limited number built each year. Engineers and designers work with clients to create a vehicle to suit their needs, desires and preferences. No single design is the same, so whether you’re after a vehicle for city living, travel and adventure, Stanford Coachworks will build what’s right for you and your lifestyle. Vehicles can be kitted out with the latest in technology and entertainment, including, but not limited to, TVs, iPads, state of the art sound systems and, of course, built in Wi-Fi. Premium quality leather seating is also available, with reclining, massage and heating options. Get thirsty while on the go? This is where a custom fridge, a coffee machine or even a built-in Champagne drawer would come in handy. Contact Stanford Coachworks to customise your own vehicle and live the private jet lifestyle on the ground – no runway needed.

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LEGENDS ARE FOREVER

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C U L T U R E 10 BOOKS YOU SHOULD READ THIS SUMMER A WOMAN’S TOUCH

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OUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO THE ARTISTS TO WATCH AND THE BOOKS TO READ THIS SUMMER


Barbara Rae, Red Sea © The artist

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10 books you should read this summer Make your holiday downtime count with some quality reading, hand-picked by us Words: Scott Manson

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et’s face it, there’s only so much social media you want to consume when you’re on holiday. If anything, it feels a little wasteful of your precious time to be checking out friends’ feeds when you’re supposed to be recharging the batteries. Far better, then, to use that time to catch up on the best that the world of books has to offer. With fewer distractions, it’s the perfect opportunity to enjoy some of these summer reads. From page-turners to conversation starters, these are guaranteed to keep you hooked from start to finish.

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Quiet: The Power of Introverts in a World That Can’t Stop Talking by Susan Cain Apparently one-third of the world are introverts yet it’s extroverts who have become prized, taking over both in business and socially. In this brilliant examination of why we should be listening to introverts, we discover how this personality trait is behind some of the world’s most talented people. Without them, we wouldn’t have the Apple computer, the theory of relativity or Van Gogh’s sunflowers. This passionately argued book should convince everyone of the value of the small, quiet voices that sit within our booming culture.

The Silk Roads by Peter Frankopan Written by an Oxford University historian, this ambitious book charts the many forces that have shaped the global economy, with a focus on the east. Exquisitely detailed and full of quirky nuggets of information – for example, The Huns spent so much time on horseback that it affected the way they walked – this history of the world, via the transcontinental silk road trading, is a fascinating and illuminating in equal measure. History at its most accessible.

The Happiness Advantage by Shawn Achor Those looking to build their success in business should look no further than this book. Authored by a Harvard professor, it puts paid to the received wisdom that success breeds happiness. Rather, it shows that happiness breeds success and outlines seven useful and practical principles that can help improve our performance and maximise our potential. It’s based on Achor’s work with thousands of Fortune 500 executives and offers a useful fast-track to a positive mind-set.

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Another Great Day at Sea: Life Aboard the USS George H.W. Bush by Geoff Dyer A brilliant, eye-opening tour at sea on an American aircraft carrier, this is an insider’s tour of the people and hardware that make up the floating behemoth that is a modern naval ship. We meet the F-18 pilots, chefs, and the Captain and discover what it takes to live a life spent mostly at sea. The writer, then aged 54, is the oldest man among the crew of 5,000 (with the exception of the ship’s dentist), making for some amusing and memorable observations of the minutiae on onboard life.

A Full Life by Jimmy Carter Former US president Jimmy Carter’s autobiography charts his rise from humble beginnings in rural Georgia to becoming the 39th President of the US. It’s a book full of humour and insight, and is surprisingly forthright about the presidents who’ve succeeded him and other world leaders. A wise and moving look back at one of the US’s most underrated Presidents.

Flashboys: Cracking the Money Code by Michael Lewis Another brilliant inside look at a group of individuals that few of us know but all of should be aware of. Lewis’s investigation into the way in which high frequency traders, or HFTs, rigged the American financial system by secretely shaving nanoseconds off trades (and then gaining hundreds of millions of dollars in the process) is a brilliant investigation of how financial instiutions are moving right now.

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IT’S A BOOK FULL OF HUMOUR AND INSIGHT, AND IS SURPRISINGLY FORTHRIGHT ABOUT THE PRESIDENTS WHO’VE SUCCEEDED HIM AND OTHER WORLD LEADERS

” Irresistible by Adam Atler Here’s a hard truth. We are addicted to social media. According to this brilliant book though, it’s really not our fault. The fiendishly clever algorithms and behavioural trigger points that are built in to social platforms are scientifically designed to keep us clicking and scrolling for up to three hours a day. In fact, millennial kids spend so much time in front of screens that they struggle to interact with real, live humans. An important book to read in the light of what might affect the health and happiness of future generations

To Be A Machine by Mark O’ Connell

The Nowhere Men by Michael Calvin

In this captivating look into mankind’s future, the author investigates ‘transhumanism’ – a trend that describes the rise of cryonics (where individuals freeze their bodies so they can be revived at some point in the future after their death), cyborgs and the ultimate pursuit of immortality. If you can live until 120, claims one interviewee, then the chances are – due to medical advances – that you will live forever. Radical optimism at its most acute.

Winner of the Times Sports Book of the Year, this is a poignant look at the unsung heroes of the beautiful game. We meet the little-known but crucially important talent scouts who spend years searching for those undiscovered footballing prodigies who just might become tomorrow’s global gods of the beautiful game. Perfect for those who can’t wait for the start of the new season.

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Fierce Kingdom by Gin Phillips The definition of a page turner, this adrenaline-soaked, edge-of-theseat story sees a mother and her four-year-old son locked in a zoo with gunmen on the prowl. Massively tense and beautifully written, it’s both a pacey thriller and a smart evaluation of the power of motherhood. One hell of a nail-biting ride.

Homo Deus by Yuval Noah Harari Bill Gates chose this for his 2017 summer reading list, saying: “I don’t agree with everything Harari has to say, but he has written a smart look at what may be ahead for humanity.” The author’s previous book, Sapiens, was a brilliant examination of the history of humankind and, in Homo Deus, he looks at how we will undergo a radical shift in how we organise our societies in coming decades. If you’ve ever asked yourself ‘where do we go from here?’, then this is the book for you.

Hillbilly Elegy by J.D. Vance Is J.D Vance the next leader of the Republican party and possibly the next President of the US? It’s a question that many are asking as he’s currently the darling of the right in America, following the publication of this brilliant examination of growing up in the disadvantaged world of poor white Appalachia. Despite a drugaddicted mother and a chaotic home life he made it to Yale Law School and has since been hailed as a new, authentic voice in the US, and someone who could help unite the country’s working class voters.

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A woman’s touch

Curated mostly by women, the Royal Academy’s Summer Exhibition is a powerful showcase of emerging female talent Words: Rachel Ingram

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ne of the most important art shows of the season, the Summer Exhibition at the Royal Academy of Arts is a breeding ground for emerging artistic talent. The open submission event offers a stage to hundreds of artists from around the world – many of whom this year are women. As well as being an excellent place to discover fresh talents, the popular show is an important event for collectors – 70% of all sales made go to the artists, while 30% goes to the Royal Academy to help fund activities such as the Royal Academy School, a fee-less three-year post graduate programme for aspiring artists. Heading up the exhibition is Eileen Cooper who, along with her predominently female committee, has spent months sorting through 12,000 entries to curate a magnificent collection of 1,200 pieces. Tempus speaks to her about the show and the works you should look out for this year. Tempus: Congratulations on putting on another a stunning Summer Exhibition. How’s this year’s show going so far? Eileen Cooper: The Royal Academicians seem to be delighted with it. There’s a lot of proof on the walls that this is the most diverse summer show we’ve ever had. Diversity and inclusion was a real aim of mine and the committee – and also for the first time the majority selection panel were female, which is quite unusual. T: Would you say there are more women than usual exhibiting this year? E: Yes, definitely. I’m confident that because we had a lot of women on the panel that the breadth of work being selected included a lot of women. I’ve just been looking through the list of works and there are a lot of women sculptors, printmakers and painters – not just the big stars, but there are a wide range of women of all ages working with all different materials and media. T: Do you have any particular favourites this year? E: In terms of mixed media we’ve got a young artist called Scarlett Bowman. We’ve also got two women involved in film: Julie Born Schwartz, a Royal Academy Schools graduate, and a mid-career woman called Sarah Purcell. Their films have a lot of film and drama in them. They’re very beautiful. For performance, we’ve got a young woman, Alana Francis, who does spoken word. Hers is a very intimate performance about female identity, experience and sexual awakening. It’s quite something. We’ve also got beautiful embroidery from Miranda Argyle, some beautiful portraits from Annie Kevins, and some amazing portraits on

the staircase by Lynette Yiadom-Boakye. I think the whole feeling of the exhibition is that it’s very fresh. It’s setting the stage for the summer show for the next two decades. It’s our 250th anniversary next year so I thought in preparation for that I’d try to shake things up and prove to the artists that the academy is a great place to show their work. T: How do you select your committee team? E: It’s usually on rotation and then it’s up to me to fill the holes. Ann Christopher is a really experienced Royal Academician who did the sculpture room and did it beautifully. Although it was her first time, Rebecca Salter did the most amazing print room. Both artists are showing their own work in their rooms as well. Fiona Rae did the painting room – it is more of an ‘invited room’ exhibiting some of our honouraries. Farshid Moussavi worked on ‘architecture’ and I think she’s brought something really different to that room. She had a clear idea that she wanted architects’ drawings and she did her best to get them to agree to that. I think the room looks very fresh and exciting. I can’t ignore the men who helped, too. Gus Cummins and Bill Jacklin were fantastic to work with, so we weren’t an all-female committee. T: Would you say women having are moment in the London art scene at the moment? E: I would say that women have always been part of the art scene, it’s just that to some extent they were overlooked, particularly in previous generations, and often they’ve been marginalised because of the boy’s club attitude of the art world, which I think we can say goodbye to, to some extent, now. T: What part do you think the Royal Academy of Arts has played in changing perceptions? E: To be honest, we’ve probably been quite slow. We’ve been discussing a gender imbalance in the Academy for at least 15 years, and trying to positively do something about it by electing successful, strong women Royal Academicians. We’re still not 50-50 so we know we’ve got a lot to do. I can’t claim that we’re trailblazers but in the Royal Academy Schools, which I run, we’ve always been aware of working with an equal amount of men and women as students for a very long time. royalacademy.org.uk

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Fiona Rae RA Many-Coloured Messenger Seeks Her Fortune Courtesy of the artist


Cornelia Parker OBE RA Coffee Pot Hit with a Monkey Wrench Photo courtesy of the artist and Alan Cristea Gallery

THE WORKS ON DISPLAY AT THE SUMMER EXHIBITION SHOWCASE THE DIVERSITY OF FEMALE CREATIVITY

Marina Abramovic Hon RA The Cleaner © Marina Abramovic. Courtesy Lisson Gallery. Photography: Dawn Blackman

Carole Robb Showers with Heroes – Byron Courtesy Acme Artist Studios

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CULTURE Yinka Shonibare MBE RA Ballet Africa Courtesy of the artist

Eileen Cooper OBE RA Till the Morning Comes © Eileen Cooper. Photography: Justin Piperger

Tracey Emin CBE RA And I Said I Love You! © The artist. Courtesy Lehmann Maupin

Naomi Wanjiku Gakunga Mugogo – The Crossing © Jonathan Greet. Courtesy October Gallery

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Award winners FEMALE ARTISTS SWEPT THE BOARD AT THE SUMMER EXHIBITION ANNUAL PRIZE GIVING

Cristina Banban Winner: The Arts Club Award The Arts Club Award’s £2,500 award, gifted to an artist aged 35 or under for a work in any medium except architecture, was presented to Cristina Banban for her piece titled ‘Pepperoni’. Cat no. 300, Gallery I

Selma Parlour Winner: The Sunny Dupree Family Award for a Woman Artist Selma Parlour faced steep competition to scoop £4,000 for a painting titled ‘Sideline’. Cat no. 729, Gallery VI

Laura Niculescu Winner: The British Institution Awards for Students Two prizes of £5,000 and £3,000 awarded to student exhibitors for paintings, works on paper, sculpture and architecture. The first prize was given to Laura Niculescu for her work ‘Uncontrollable Clearance Delay #2’. Cat no. 176, Gallery I

Eva Rothschild RA Winner: The Jack Goldhill Award for Sculpture The most anticipated award in the field of sculpture, The Jack Goldhill Award was granted to Eva Rothschild RA for her piece ‘What We Know’. Cat no. 534, Gallery IV

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CREATE YOUR PERFECT HOME AND LIFESTYLE With inspiration from our beautiful subscription box delivered to your door each month. Lovingly curated by Anthea Turner & Sarah Jones. www.theathomeboxcompany.com 127


S M A R T

L I V I N G

ON THE EDGE COOL POOLS

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FROM STUNNING SEASIDE PROPERTIES TO INNOVATIVE HIGH-TECH GADGETS, HERE’S WHAT (AND WHERE) YOU SHOULD BE BUYING RIGHT NOW

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ON THE EDGE Looking for the latest in home tech? Here are this month’s hottest releases

Words: Scott Manson

Arteplano

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FROM BLEEDING EDGE AUDIO INNOVATION TO SMART HOMEWARE AND – PERHAPS MOST UNLIKELY – THE WORLD’S HIPPEST RADIATOR, THERE ARE A HOST OF BRILLIANT NEW PRODUCTS THAT HAVE POPPED UP THIS MONTH. WE GAVE THEM A TEST RUN AND HERE WE HIGHLIGHT THE BEST IN SHOW.

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Exquisite design The Marantz 10 series (CD and amp) combines slick, minimalist design with an expansive soundscape, giving vocals uncanny precision, a big bass boom and a crisp mid-range. This is the ultimate in home sound reproduction from a surprisingly small set of equipment – prices start at £13,000. marantz.co.uk

Wicked sounds What do you get when you team up one of East London’s hottest graffiti artists with a top flight audio brand? The result is this Ruark R7 radio that’s been hand-painted by Pure Evil, a celebrated artist who’s also had his work displayed at the Saatchi Gallery. High-end audio engineering meets street cool. From £5,000, and there’s only three available. ruarkaudio.com

Picture this This could just be the most beautiful TV we’ve ever seen. Created by Loewe, the German TV manufacturer known for its striking, gorgeous designs – the Bild 9 can be standing, wallmounted or table-mounted. In any position, though, it looks like it’s floating – thanks in part to all the cables being hidden inside the frame. Visually, there’s either a 55-inch or 65-inch 4K HDR OLED panel, a built-in 1tb hard drive and a 120 Watt integrated soundbar that only appears when you turn the TV on and moves out of sight when you turn it off. From £6,990. loewe.tv

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SMART LIVING High-res audio The Astall & Kern A&ultima SP1000 comes along at a prescient time, just as Apple has announced it’s discontinuing with iPods. However, for true audiophiles who want perfectly reproduced music in their pocket, this is the player of choice. It has independent digital to analog converters (DACs) for left and right channels to provide greater audio depth, an octa-core processor and a high-def touchscreen. Hearing is believing. Prices from £3,299. astellnkern.com

Hot thing This Arteplano radiator by Bisque is the ideal option for the discerning homeowner, as each is individually etched from brass or copper, meaning each and every one is 100% unique. You’ll also find it on the walls of several A-listers, although those discreet folk at Bisque won’t reveal exactly who has gone for some wall art that is truly hot stuff. Prices from £1,818. bisque.co.uk

Awesome earbuds Audeze are already known as being one of the world’s finest manufacturers of headphones and now, with the LCDi4, they have produced arguably the best in-ear headphones on the planet. With a price tag to match. £2,399 will get you overall distortion (THD) that’s less than 0.2 percent, even when you have music cranked all the way up, plus a smooth midrange and huge bass.

Just chilling

astellnkern.com

It might seem an odd fit, but it definitely works. Two top Italian brands – Smeg and Dolce & Gabbana – have teamed up collaborate on a bespoke collection of limited-edition, individually hand-painted ‘FAB28’ refrigerators, each one forming a canvas on which artists have drawn fabulous scenes. These are pieces of art in their own right and, unsurprisingly, the price for these is strictly on application. smeguk.com

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Cool POOLS A glorious pool and outdoor party space is a summer essential Words: Cheryl Markosky

A

t the upper echelons, an incredible pool absolutely makes a villa more saleable, declares home finder Barbara Wood (thepropertyfinders.com). “If you were thinking of doing up the kitchen, pay attention to the pool area instead. Purchasers won’t notice the inside – they’ll be homing in on the outdoor pool zone.” Expert in Andalucian hideaways, she explains that a bog standard, eight-by-four foot pool with Roman steps and handrail simply won’t cut it. Today’s pool has to be generous enough for keep-fit lane swimming, somewhere to splash about on a lilo and a separate, shallow kiddies’ area. And don’t forget the swim-up bar, ‘chiringuito’ (beach bar-style outside kitchen to us gringos) and cutting-edge fashion for grey or black stone (it’s adios to Hockney blue). Safety’s become an issue, too, but not at the cost of ruining the architectural lines, Barbara adds. “People are losing lumpy, Spanish balustrades and ugly wire fences cordoning off pools, in favour of view-friendly, toughened glass panels inserted when children are around – and lifted out for adult-only sojourns.” Jamie Robinson, director of sales at Quinta do Lago (quintadolago. com), notes the latest Algarve trend: an interior underwater room, as well as eye-catching outdoor pools. A specialist firm is busy fitting pool windows in basements, “reflecting textured light from the water to illuminate interiors – like a giant aquarium”. One villa on the resort has gone further with a “Thai-style channel of water running through the house and out into the pool”. Along with designer-led advances in pools, villa-owners are fussy about taking a dip in the right sort of liquid. Jamie says chlorine and salt are so yester-year – “now, pools are solar and ultra-violet treated, with one big system for both house and pool”. »

135 Jaw-dropping views at Four Seasons Residences Seychelles


Quinta do Lago Follow the wave with an ultra-groovy underwater room and two striking outdoor pools in a €6.995 million (£6.17 million), five-suite villa, overlooking one of Europe’s top-rated golf courses. When guests tire of aqueous activities they can top up their tans on sun terraces, and visit the gym and games room (with bar). quintadolago.com

Nueva Andalucia Modern golf resort villa priced at €3.75 million (£3.33 million), with four bedroom suites and all the perks: 24/7 security, communal tennis courts, wine cellar, games room, short drive to Marbella – and a minifiesta barbecue/lounging area with glistening saltwater pool. dallimoremarbella.com

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SMART LIVING

Four Seasons Residences Seychelles Rugged local granite meets European polished marble in a $12.5 million (£9.656 million), six-bedroom villa overlooking Anse Bay on Mahe. You can take advantage of the hotel’s hilltop spa and restaurants – or you can stay put on your teak sundeck and improve your backstroke in the infinity pool. sphereestates.com

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Atelier House We expect you’ll spend less time in the study of this four-bedroom, $4.75 million (£3.671 million) villa on a half-acre plot in St James, Barbados, and more on the extensive outdoor terraces and in your 32 by 27 foot pool. And if you fancy extra space to grow more bougainvilleas, you can buy the adjacent, 20,000-square foot plot. aylesford.com

Villa Mostaccini Monet painted from its 15th century watchtower. And now you can revel in the grand reception rooms, professional kitchen (that caters for 200 guests) and, of course, natural stone pool of this classic, sixbed, Ligurian villa on the Riviera. Price €19.5 million (£17.4 million). knightfrank.co.uk

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Horsing around Inside the Tempus-sponsored Asia Cup Polo at the Royal County of Berkshire Polo Club On 1 July, Tempus Media sponsored the Asia Cup Polo for its landmark 10-year anniversary game. Hosted at the prestigious Royal County of Berkshire Polo Club, the high-profile event was attended by VIPs and high net worth guests who enjoyed a day of sporting entertainment and fine hospitality. Guests were greeted with canapés and cocktails as they arrived to the sound of jazz music from a live band. Lunch was served in the Royal Marquee, accompanied by Indian wines – a particularly excellent choice considering the theme of the event. As guests waited for the action to start, they were treated to a glamorous fashion show by Patricia Gomez-Gracia and a performance of operatic classics by Tre Amici wowed. There was also a charity auction during which guests bid for opulent prizes such as a superyacht charter in Mallorca. On to the polo and Tempus magazine joined up with players from the Moor Farm Polo Club in Shropshire, supported by Major Terry Warburton, to create a ‘wild card’ team. Our talented line-up, consisting of Ian Grimes, Major Will Mawby, Jason McCreight and Mark Hayden-Kellard, went head-tohead with a team put together by TJB Super Yachts. The day was a great way to celebrate 10 years of the Asia Cup and reinforce Tempus’s commitment to British sport and polo. asiacuppolo.com

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Moor Farm polo club The Home of Shropshire Polo Moor Farm Polo club brings polo to Shropshire for the first time, with safe polo for beginners and challenging polo for those who want more.

Visit

www.moorfarmpoloclub.co.uk for more information on how to get involved.

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Long Drive World Series A sneak peek inside the tournament set to revolutionise the competitive world of golf

T

he UK leg of the Long Drive World Series, sponsored by Tempus Media Ltd, took place at the Royal County of Berkshire Polo Club on 8 July. The second date of the international tournament, which followed the launch in Dubai in March, was the first of its kind in the UK. Long Drive is a sport that needs to be seen to be believed. A game of strength and precision, the competition saw a group of the biggest hitters in the world go head-tohead to see who could smash the ball the furthest. Unlike traditional golfing events, the contest was coupled with VIP entertainment – think DJs, pyrotechnics and a Champagne-stocked bar. The Long Drive World Series UK was won by Swedish player Emil Rosberg, who clocked up a drive of 395 yards, stealing the winning podium from two-time world champion Joe Miller, who came in a close second. The next leg of the tour travels to Portugal and teams up with the European tour at the Portuguese Masters on 23 September. See you there!

longdriveworldseries.com

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EVENTS

Joe Miller and Emil Rosberg

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SAVE the DATE Your luxury event calendar starts here

Longines Global Champions Tour 4 – 6 August A prestigious show jumping series featuring the world’s top-ranked riders, the Longines Global Champions Tour is an unmissable affair for participants and spectators alike. For your chance to see talents like Scott Brash and Ben Maher compete at a unique and iconic London venue, make your way to the Royal Hospital Chelsea.

globalchampionstour.com

Qatar Goodwood Festival

Cowes Week

1 – 5 August

27 July – 5 August

A highlight of the Goodwood Festival (taking place June through September), the Qatar Goodwood Festival offers five-days of races, hospitality and style in the beautiful Sussex countryside. A prime society spectacle for equestrian enthusiasts, the event attracts high-flying riders and spectators from across the country.

One of the longest-running regattas in the UK, Cowes Week is the sailing event of the summer. Attracting over 8,000 competitors and thousands of spectators on land and out at sea, the event on the Isle of Wight, which has been running since 1826, is a whirlwind of captivating races and star-studded parties.

goodwood.com

lendycowesweek.co.uk

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EVENTS

Glorious Twelfth

Tempus Summer Evening Shoot

12 August – 10 December

23 August

The Glorious Twelfth marks the start of the grouse season – the smartest season in shooting. On 12 August, polish your finest British-made guns and make your way to prime grouse moors in North Yorkshire or Scotland to start the season in style.

Following the roaring success of our last luxury shooting day in June, Tempus is hosting another exclusive event. On Wednesday 23 August, we’ll be taking over the world-renowned Holland & Holland Shooting Grounds for an evening of good sportsmanship and fine hospitality with our VIP guests.

gunsonpegs.com

tempusmagazine.co.uk For ticket enquiries email georgia@tempusmagazine.co.uk

Salon Privé 31 August – 2 September Set against the backdrop of the regal Blenheim Palace, the Oxfordshire residence of the Duke of Marlborough, Salon Privé is arguably the most glamorous garden party of the season. An unmissable soiree for luxury aficionados, the event showcases a collection of fine supercars and classic cars and presents a luxurious shopping, dining and socialising experience for its guests.

Pirelli Belgian Grand Prix 25 – 27 August

salonpriveconcours.com

The Pirelli Belgian Grand Prix at the historic Spa-Francorchamps circuit is one of the most important dates on the annual racing calendar. Tempus-sponsored driver Oliver Rowland will be driving for DAMS Racing in the F2, right before the world’s fastest drivers take to the challenging track for the F1.

For more exciting events, visit our website:

formula1.com

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ASTON MARTIN MAYFAIR

BEAUTY, POWER & LUXURY PCP

£1,299

Per month

£41,000 Customer deposit

REPRESENTATIVE EXAMPLE 23 Monthly Payments of

Customer Deposit

Dealer Deposit Contribution

Total Deposit

Term of Agreement

On The Road Cash Price

£1,299.00

£41,000.00

£17,591.00

£58,591.00

24 Months

£152,995.00

Total Amount of Credit

Option to Purchase Fee**

Option to Purchase Payment - GMFV**

Total Amount Payable

Rate of Interest (Fixed)

Representative APR

£94,404.00

£10.00

£74,224.56

£162,702.56

3.05%

5.9% APR

ASTON MARTIN MAYFAIR 113 Park Lane, Mayfair, London W1K 7AJ TELEPHONE: 020 7235 8888 www.astonmartinmayfair.co.uk

Stratstone.com

OFFICIAL FUEL CONSUMPTION FIGURES FOR THE ASTON MARTIN RAPIDE S IN MPG (L/100KM): URBAN 13.2 (21.4), EXTRA URBAN 28.0 (10.1), COMBINED 19.9 (14.3). OFFICIAL CO2 EMISSIONS 332 G/KM. Victoria (Bavaria) Limited is a credit broker/intermediary that can introduce you to a limited number of lenders to provide funding for your vehicle. They may incentivise us for introducing you to them. Finance provided by Aston Martin Financial Services and Alphera Financial Services, both trading names of BMW Financial Services (GB) Limited Summit ONE, Summit Avenue, Farnborough, Hampshire, GU14 0FB. Finance available for Aston Martin Rapide S registered from 01/04/17. PCP (Personal Contract Plan): **Payable at the end of the agreement if you decide to purchase the vehicle (GMFV - Guaranteed Minimum Future Value). Contract mileage of 12,000 miles, excess mileage charge of 36.21p per mile. Finance is subject to status and available to over 18s in the UK (not the Channel Islands or Isle of Man). This offer may be varied or withdrawn at any time. Finance subject to status. Guarantees may be required. Not to be used in conjunction with any other offer. Subject to availability. Terms and conditions apply. Images shown for illustration purposes only. Test drive subject to applicant status and availability. Victoria (Bavaria) Limited, Loxley House, 2 Oakwood Court, Little Oak Drive, Annesley, Nottingham, NG15 0DR. All information related to fuel economy data shown was obtained from official manufacturer’s testing carried out in accordance with Directive 80/1268/EEC as amended by Regulation (EC) 692/2008. Such test data is helpful for comparative purposes but is not necessarily representative of what may be achieved when driving the vehicle in non-test conditions. Offers end 30/06/17.

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