Tempus issue 17

17

REVELATION / LeBron James / Scatola del Tempo / COOL CONVERTIBLES / Pilot watches / Superyachts / ONLINE REPUTATION MANAGEMENT / New York nightlife / Essential women’s watches Untitled-1 1

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Explore the Energy of Creation

Pyramid Bracelet Colombian emeralds, black diamonds, 18K rhodium plated white gold and onyx.

108 New Bond Street | London W1S 1EF | Tel. 020 3372 0108 | www.frostoflondon.co.uk www.shamballajewels.com

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NEW WEBSITE FROM

TEMPUS

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M o b i l e Ta b l e t P r i n t We b

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108 New Bond Street, London, W1S 1EF Tel: 020 3372 0108 - www.frostoflondon.co.uk

W W W . G A Y D A M A K J E W E L L E R Y. C O M A V A I L A B L E A T F R O S T O F L O N D O N , 1 0 8 N E W B O N D S T R E E T, L O N D O N , 0 2 0 3 3 7 2 0 1 0 8

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ISSUE

SEVENTEEN Contributors

From the editor Editor

Scott Manson

scott.manson@astongreenlake.com 020 3617 4693 Art Director

Jonny Hughes

tempusartwork@astongreenlake.com 020 3006 2122 Writer

Hannah Silver

hannah.silver@astongreenlake.com Web Development Manager

Mitchell Finlay

mitchell.finlay@astongreenlake.com Business Development Director

Mark Edwards

mark.edwards@astongreenlake.com 020 3617 4688 Senior Account Manager

Tom Pettit

t.pettit@astongreenlake.com Managing Director

Jay Boisvert

Last year’s SalonQP event was a feast for the watch connoisseur.

A host of luxury timepiece brands showcased their finest pieces in the beautiful surroundings of London’s Saatchi Gallery. Among the better-known companies, though, there were a few new faces on the block, including this month’s cover star, Revelation.

I recall the moment I first set eyes on the brand’s watches.

Lovely looking pieces, of course, but it wasn’t until Revelation’s co-founder Anouk Danthe showed me the unique properties of the watch face that I realised this was something truly special.

You can find out more about this forward-thinking brand on page 52.

When it comes to pushing the envelope, renowned British watchmaker Peter Roberts is similarly inspiring. A former technical director for Bremont, he’s spent years working on his debut eponymous model, and we are one of the first to take a closer look. Check out the Peter Roberts Grand Complication, and an interview with the man himself, on page 89.

Elsewhere, we embark on a whistlestop tour of New York’s best bars, reveal why the disco craze has returned to London once more and talk timepieces with basketball legend LeBron James. Oh, and for those whose watch collecting has moved from a mere hobby to something bordering on obsession, then it could be time to invest in a watch winder or a watch safe.

You’ll find some of the best on the planet showcased on page 65.

Ken Kessler

When it comes to pilot’s watches, there are few writers who know more on the subject than Ken Kessler. The man himself reveals his personal favourites from page 70.

James Kirkham

As the global head of social and mobile at Leo Burnett advertising agency, James is well placed to comment on the growing trend for online reputation management.

Read all about it from page 59.

Enjoy the issue.

Kyle Fortune

TEMPUS IS PUBLISHED MONTHLY

BY ASTON GREENLAKE PUBLISHING LTD, 8TH FLOOR, 6 MITRE PASSAGE, LONDON SE10 0ER. TEL: 020 3617 4688

The founder of carenthusiast.com and an automotive writer for the likes of Top Gear magazine, Kyle regularly takes to the hotseat of some of the world’s finest cars. On page 78 he highlights this summer’s crop of hot convertibles.

Scott Manson Editor - 11 -

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Snake collection, gold and diamonds - www.messika-paris.com

108 New Bond Street, London W1S 1EF Tel : 020 3372 0108

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- c o n t en ts -

- 14 Take Me There Why

Inside ISSUE SEVENTEEN

not islandhop through the Azores to the verdant paradise of São Miguel during August’s Tide Festival?

keeps you wound up, in a good way - 70 High Life Six of the

best flying machines for your wrist

- 17 Luxury Briefing Because, it turns

- 78 Drop Top Heaven When the sun’s

out, the best things in life aren’t for free, after all

out and the road beckons, you need the roof down

- 27 Food and Drink Two hot places

-89 A Question of Time Peter

you need to be at, to be seen at

Roberts, once a shy and retiring master watchmaker, is finally filling his boots

- 31 The Word Business guru

David C.M. Charter on seizing the moment; Hannah Silver on the Seventies revival

- 92 Cherchez La Femme Watchwise,

women are enjoying greater choice than ever

- 35 The Watch Snob AskMen’s

columnist pulls no punches when solving your horological conundrums - 36 Auction Watch Our pick of the best

42

director, Joseph Banin reveals what’s hot right now

- 120 Shooting Stars Bertone’s

- 40 Right to the Point Controversial

shooting-brake take on Aston Martin’s Rapide

jewellery with a sting in its tail

- 123 Your Imperial Majesty A

- 42 Object of Desire A masterpiece in

blissful spa resort deep in the heart of Italy’s Puglia countryside

pavé from Florentine jeweller, Pippo Perez - 45 -

Cover: Revelation

play in the flourishing business sector of ‘online reputation management’

- 126 Small Room, Big Sound

Compact soundsystems that pack a surprising punch - 131 Cocktails with Altitude

- 52 Face/Off New to Frost of London

- 59 The Erasable Era The dark arts at

pick of the smartest client wheel-greasers on the market spectacular new superyachts weighing anchor on the Med this summer

- 38 Trendwatching Frost of London's

is niche brand, Revelation – a truly revolutionary concept in watchmaking

- 104 The Art of Giving Our

- 117 Making Waves Four

pieces going under the hammer

Net Gains Audemars Piguet’s ambassador and star baller for Miami Heat, LeBron James on his hoop dreams

- 65 Turning Point Scatola del Tempo

Manhattan’s bar scene has never been hotter, or more sleepless Special thanks: Charlotte Johnson @ThePressOffice Ben Smith Simon Berkovitch Alex Doak

- 138 Moments in Time An

unlikely cinematic outing for Breitling

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Sao Miguel

- AZO R ES

The nine volcanic islands that make up the Azores, scattered like stepping stones in the North Atlantic, are a feast of natural beauty. One of the highlights on São Miguel, the largest island, is the tranquil Lagoa das Sete Cidades. This freshwater lake is set in a crater created from a dormant volcano, resulting in the largest body of water in the region. Bubbling sulphur mud pools and hot springs attest that this is a place where volcanic activity is still very much alive. Island-hop your way round in August to ensure you don’t miss Festival Maré de Agosto (August Tide Festival) where national and international musicians join locals for a heady week of music in the sun.

sunvil.co.uk

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Easy Connection.

Exceptional Sound.

Loewe Speaker 2go.

Portable Bluetooth speaker with hands-free speaker phone.

RSP ÂŁ269. Available in silver or black. www.loewe.tv

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B ecau s e t h e b est t h i n g s i n li fe a r en't fr ee

Ultimate autos

-C O N C O U RS O F ELEGA N C E It’s a hen’s-teeth rarity to spot a 1928 Bugatti Type 35B, Ferrari 340 MM Vignale Spyder and 1969 Porsche 917-023 parked alongside each other, but visitors to this year’s Concours of Elegance will see that and much more.

The event gathers together 60 of the world’s most spectacular cars from around the world and displays them on the Royal lawns of St James’s, London, in September. As well as raising money for charity, the event also showcases a selection of cars owned by members of some of the UK’s most exclusive car clubs.

concoursofelegance.co.uk

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A regal affair

- ZO N E C R EAT I O N S

Originally created for the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee, the original version of this stunning architectural floor clock may now reside in Buckingham Palace, but there are still 120 pieces available worldwide. British clockmaker Comitti of London has crafted a precision English regulator movement, available in a rhodium or goldplated finish, which can be admired through the clock’s crystal clear cast polymer casing.

comitti.com, zone-creations.co.uk

Great design for a great cause

- N O M O S G LAS H u TT E

The celebrated German watchmaker has teamed up with Médicins Sans Frontières (MSF), the independent emergency aid organisation that supplies medical assistance to the world’s trouble spots. Together, they have created an impressive limited-edition version of the brand’s popular Tangente model. With a red twelve, white silver-plated dial and an MSF engraving on the back, it’s a brilliant piece in its own right. Even better is the fact that £100 from the sale of every piece will directly benefit relief operations.

nomos-watches.com

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Reex action

-C H A P LI N S

For the past 20 years, Chaplins has showcased the best in stylish, quality homeware. The modern furniture specialist continues to drive design forward by locating premium products to create a timeless but contemporary interior. The Scrigno Cabinet, designed by the Campana Brothers, is a standalone cupboard whose panels open out like wings. Every visible surface is clad in shiny splinters of laser-cut Reflex, a reflective acrylic material available in a host of eye-catching colours.

chaplins.co.uk

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Back to the future

- RUA R K AU D I O

The new R7 from Ruark Audio, the result of three years’ development, is a stylish piece that combines retro 1960s design with ultra-modern technology. Crafted from walnut, aluminium and glass, it features a highperformance player for CDs and MP3s and has Bluetooth with lossless aptX music replay and DLNA wi-fi capabilities if you want to stream from other devices.

The expertly tuned and chambered cabinet has new dual concentric drivers and a long-throw subwoofer unit to guarantee flawless sound quality.

ruarkaudio.com

Dial art

- U LYSS E N A R D I N Ulysse Nardin’s latest model, the Pride of Baltimore, is inspired by the use of Baltimore Clipper ships during the War of 1812, referencing President James Madison’s decision to enable private ship owners to legally become pirates in order to swell the size of his navy, with the only provision being their ability to successfully sail a Baltimore Clipper. The ship itself is beautifully depicted on the dial in enamel. Over 500mm of gold wire has been used in the 50-hour manufacturing process.

ulysse-nardin.ch

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Classic nouveau

- JAQU ET D ROZ

Jaquet Droz timepieces are universally admired for their pared-down aesthetic and while the latest release – the Éclipse – is a goodlooking piece, it embodies more of a classic look. With a 39mm case, it’s smaller than its predecessors but still has the traditional watch complications, such as a gold moon phase visible at six o’clock.

jaquet-droz.com

Smarter phones

- SAV ELLI

For those weary of standard mobile phone offerings, the launch of Savelli Genève handsets could be just what you’re looking for. These luxury smartphones for women have been designed by a team who have worked with Hermès, Patek Philippe and Boucheron. A variety of precious metals and stones are used to create phones that share the best qualities of exquisite pieces of jewellery. There are 11 models in the debut collection, all powered by Google Android OS and equipped with smartphone technology.

savelli-geneve.com

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108 New Bond Street, London, W1S 1EF Tel: 020 3372 0108 - www.frostoflondon.co.uk

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The Regent Diamond Knight 4452 141 ideal cut round brilliant diamonds weighing 5.62 carats

113A Jermyn Street, Mayfair, London, SW1Y 6HJ For details of our worldwide retailers, please visit

www.backesandstrauss.com

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Island paradise

- CAST ELL S O N C LA R ET

With Mallorca’s dramatic Tramuntana mountains as a backdrop, this former castle turned hotel – just opened this summer – offers guests the last word in luxury. It comprises 38 rooms or suites, a world-class spa, beautiful landscaped gardens and a Michelin-starred restaurant, Zaranda, headed up by chef Fernando Pérez Arellano. Balearic bliss is guaranteed.

castellsonclaret.com

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TRENDS AND NEWS FROM THE BEST BARS AND KITCHENS RADIO BAR, ME LONDON

Reviewed by Scott Manson

If you’re looking for a little slice of Ibiza in London’s West End, then this place is it. From the beautiful people sprawled on huge white day beds to the tapas on the table and the ‘beach house’ playing in the background, it feels like I’m back at the legendary Blue Marlin bar on the White Isle’s Cala Jondal beach.

In some ways, it actually has the edge on that Balearic bar, because this south-facing, tenth-floor space has some of the best views in the capital. Looking across the Strand, we can see Oxo Tower and Big Ben, the London Eye, St Paul’s, the Gherkin, One Canada Square and, of course, the Shard.

“This is the perfect date location,” says my friend, and he’s spot on. Only the most stony-hearted could fail to be seduced by this sophisticated terrace in the clouds.

The journey starts in the lobby of ME London, a new Foster & Partners-designed hotel at the junction of Strand and Aldwych.

An express lift whisks you up from the glam lobby to the bar – a rooftop glass pyramid that takes its name from the fact that the first BBC programming was broadcast from here in 1922.

This art deco edifice has bags of style, then, but what of the culinary offering? One thing it’s certainly not is fussy. Instead, a solid range of global tapas is on offer, from wagyu beef sliders to crab linguine. Our huge burgers were served correctly mediumrare (if a restaurant refuses to cook burgers at this temperature, you need to ask some hard questions about the meat quality) while an octopus salad starter was a delicate affair with none of the rubbery texture that comes from a few seconds’ overcooking.

In terms of drinks, any wine list that includes a dozen rosés is a winner in my book, and perfect for long, lazy summer nights.

If you’re looking for penthouse perfection in the heart of the capital, Radio Bar is surely it.

WHITE ISLE DINING

Ibiza is no slouch when it comes to fine dining, and the launch of Montauk, a world-class steakhouse, has been heralded as one of the season’s best new openings. Executive chef Richard Turner (Hawksmoor, Pitt Cue) will be dishing up fabulous 35-day dry aged beef from the restaurant’s own salt chamber, in the luxe setting of Playa d’en Bossa’s Ushuaia Tower, one of the island’s best hotels.

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- fo o d & d r i n k -

INVESTING IN HUET

PLAYBOY CLUB, LONDON

Aged vouvray by Huet has been hitting all the right notes in the auction houses recently. Huet is a Loire producer who became legendary for one of the most delicious portfolios of white wines you can imagine. Because of a recent change of ownership at the winery, an enormous stock of back vintages has surfaced; most have gone up ten times in value and, in the case of some of the sweet wines that are almost 100 years old, they still have many more years drinking ahead of them. Here are three to note...

Reviewed by Scott Manson

by Peter Dean HUET’S GREATEST HITS

Vouvray ‘Le Haut Lieu’, Moelleux 1919, Domaine Huet.

When it opened a couple of years back, London’s Playboy Club immediately became a magnet for those looking for a quality casino experience. Its bar, too, presided over by celebrated mixologist Salvatore Calabrese, was a major draw.

With its dark wood, low-slung leather couches, Rat Pack-era aesthetic and, of course, the famous bunny girls, this was a place for late-night trysts and a quality gentleman’s night out.

For those less inclined to entertain the vagaries of lady luck at the tables, though, there is a restaurant that, on the strength of my visit, deserves to be your first choice for visiting the house of Hef. Better still, while you need to be a member (at £1,000 per year) to gamble, the restaurant is open to the public for lunch.

Heading up the dining room is Judy Joo, of Iron Chef UK fame, and she has created the perfect menu for a wealthy, mostly male clientele, comprising modernAmerican, crowd-pleasing dishes, with

one or two genuine surprises. The result is familiar dishes such as a mammoth shrimp cocktail or baked oysters Rockefeller, sitting alongside creations that showcase Judy’s Korean roots, like the fabulous bo ssam buns. I could eat these all day long – thinly sliced pork belly with a ginger and garlic marinade, served inside a pillowy soft steamed bun with cucumber and spring onions.

A debate raged at our table over the relative merits of grass-fed versus cornfed beef, while trying to decide on a steak option. Luckily, the steak tasting plate (Aberdeen Angus fillet, wagyu rump and USDA ribeye), allowed us to compare and contrast, with the grass-fed Scottish option being the standout. A Hef burger, crafted from wagyu, dressed with truffle ketchup and served with a Playboy chip on the side – which can be exchanged for a glass of champagne at the bar – was a wonderfully indulgent take on a potentially everyday meal.

The oldest of the vintages still available. This is for serious collectors only and is probably best not drunk given its rarity. Amazingly it would still be drinking – probably dark brown, unctuous honey in a glass. When you consider the same wine in the 2012 vintage costs £180 for 12 bottles (in bond) you can see why investors are getting involved.

£705 (1 x 75cl bottle), robersonwine.com Vouvray ‘Le Haut Lieu’, Demi-Sec 1957, Domaine Huet

This semi-dry is from a good vintage, but nowhere as good as 1921, 1947 or 1989 which are near perfect. It’s a fine wine with a light gold hue, smooth honeyed texture and is drinking perfectly now, or could be left for another 50 years.

£3,041 (1 x 12 bottle case), frw.co.uk Vouvray ‘Le Haut Lieu’, Moelleux 1er Tri 1989, Domaine Huet

‘Premiere tri’ is the first pick of the grapes and could be left for the grandchildren to cash in at least 10+ times the outlay, or something nice for the guests to drink at your funeral!

£1,431 (1 x 12 bottle case), frw.co.uk

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- t h e wo r d -

Your time is now David C.M. Carter

David C.M. Carter is one of the world’s leading business mentors and author of Breakthrough davidcmcarter.com

Andy Warhol once noted, “They always say time changes things, but you actually have to change them for yourself.” I agree. Time can make you forget and be a soothing balm, but to change and become who you want to be, you need to do it yourself – and it’s never too late to start. Time is not the great healer; experience is.

As a mentor to CEOs and entrepreneurs worldwide – and someone who has helped to create over 50 multimillionaires – I help my clients break through barriers to becoming the best version of themselves. One of my methods is to use a time-based method that sees my clients colour-code their diary into the following sections: Do, Delete, Delegate, Develop. Most clients are shocked when they realise how much time they spend on nonproductive activities, with many of us confusing activity with action. Indeed, I once had a client who ran a global company making data systems who realised he could delegate or delete nearly 50% of his diary, freeing up to focus on what he was best at, which was vision. Showing people where they are wasting their time and using it fruitfully helps them to increase their happiness, productivity and success.

Time plays tricks with us. Time passes slowly for those who wait and too fast for those who fear. Days last too long for those who grieve and fade too fast for those who find joy. So many of us live in the past when the now is all there is. What might have been and what has been point to one end, which is always present,

to borrow from T.S. Eliot. We can learn from the past, but we can’t relive it. Equally, we can plan for a future, but who really knows what will happen? Today is yesterday’s tomorrow.

The only certainty is the present.

“I haven’t got time,” is a common refrain that masks an unhappy inability to seize the day and take action. In fact, the one thing we all have is time, so to say you don’t have time is the equivalent of not choosing to do what needs doing. We might delay, but time’s progress is inexorable. What is certain is that the past increases and the future recedes and thus regrets can mount and possibilities can decrease.

We all have 365 days per year, 24 hours per day and 60 minutes per hour. Time treats everyone the same. We can’t save time today to spend it tomorrow. To ensure that your future doesn’t keep drifting out of reach, the only thing to do is to be present. The more focused we are on the past or the future, the less we are focused on the only thing we can influence – the now.

We all think we have so much time left and then wonder where it’s gone. We all search for ways to live longer, yet most of us dread getting old. My aim as a mentor is to teach my clients to live now. Only if they embrace the present can they become the best version of themselves.

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greenwich

TB88

EDITION HAND-CRAFTED IN SWITZERLAND Arnold & Son Manual movement AS5003 Two barrels, 100-hour power reserve True Beat Seconds, Breguet Spring See-through caseback. 100 feet (30 meters) water resistant Available in rose gold or stainless steel

108 New Bond Street London, W1S 1EF www.frostoflondon.co.uk

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The

Got a question about timepieces?

Put it to AskMen.com’s Watch Snob. Be warned: you may not like what he has to say…

Liquid assets

Classy indie

Question from a Watch Knob

Dear Snob, I’m wondering if you could discuss the various watch options for swimming – pool or ocean? In other words, not actual deep-sea diving, but something probably around 150200m water-resistant.

Dear Snob, What is your considered opinion of Laurent Ferrier watches?

Dear Snob I have two Nixon 51-30s, which I absolutely love, but they are not dressy at all. Now that I’ve become so used to them, I simply cannot go back to smaller ones – they just look weird.

So, I’ve been looking for a very elegant yet large-faced watch as a wedding present, since my fiancée and I are exchanging wedding day gifts. Any new Nixons I should be aware of that are a little dressier?

Fine watches do not like water. Nor do they like sand, hot sun, sweaty skin, concrete pool decks, bratty children or spilled sticky soft drinks, all of which are typically found near water.

My suggestion, contrary to your wishes, is to leave your timepiece in your hotel suite before making your way to the beach or pool. If you find yourself in a situation where spontaneous water entry is possible – a choppy afternoon sail, perhaps – a steel sports watch is what I recommend. And when we talk about steel sports watches, there are really only two that matter: the Patek Nautilus and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Suitably highend, thankfully not dive watches and easily resistant to your leisurely backstroking, either will meet your criteria.

I’m glad you asked. Laurent Ferrier builds some of the most elegant and well-finished timepieces available today. Full stop. Quite the Renaissance man, the brand’s namesake founder was once a world-class racing driver and nothing less than the head of the prototyping department at Patek Philippe.

That last bit should be enough to go on, but if you need further evidence of Ferrier’s prowess, just gaze upon any of his Galet timepieces – I daresay they might even be of a finer quality than some of his former employer’s watches.

In short, I put Laurent Ferrier with the best of the small independents like Journe and Dufour. If you haven’t paid attention to him before, you should now.

First of all, do you really think I pay attention to the newest releases from what is easily the saddest excuse for a watch company to hit the mainstream in the last 10 years? I don’t.

Secondly, even if I did happen to know what this cheap, chintzy and summarily craptastic brand did have in store, I would never recommend it to you or anyone – although, clearly, you deserve nothing more than to own a third Nixon. So, my advice to you? Buy whatever you want, because you are evidently incapable of appreciating anything above this faux-surfer brand of plastic timepieces.

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- au ct i o n watc h -

Underthe hammer Vintage wristwatches, classic cars and antique weapons are the highlights of this month’s auctions

Antiques & Fine Art Fair

Bringing together the best pieces from Britain’s heritage is the Mall Galleries’ Antiques & Fine Art Fair, where prestigious pieces of art, silver and jewellery are all available. One of the highlights is this fabulous vintage Van Cleef and Arpels ladies’ wristwatch from the 1950s, set in 18-carat gold and dotted delicately with diamonds.

Priced at £16,000, the Antiques & Fine Art Fair is from 28 to 31 August penman-fairs.co.uk

Bonhams

Racing fans should keep an eye on the auction sale at September’s Goodwood Revival Meeting, where one of the more impressive of the pre-war Grand Prix racing cars is going under the hammer. The 1935 Alfa Romeo 8C-35 was reportedly driven by the legendary Tazio Nuvolari, described by Ferdinand Porsche as, “the greatest driver of the past, the present and the future.”

Estimated at £5.5m £6.5m, the Goodwood Revival Meeting is on 14 September bonhams.com

Bonhams

The Antique Arms and Armour sale is a great place to pick up significant pieces from military history. This extremely rare naval sword was presented by William IV, ‘The Sailor King’, to Admiral William Carnegie, 7th Earl Of Northesk – the third most senior officer at Trafalgar, buried in St Paul’s Cathedral alongside Nelson.

Estimated at £5,000 £8,000, the Antiques Arms and Armour sale is on 31 July bonhams.com

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Domino collection

www.robertodemeglio.it www.fattoamanoinitalia.it

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- t h e h ot li st -

Trendwatching Frost of London director Joseph Banin

M a i t r es d u T em ps I’m so pleased to finally have the Maîtres du Temps Chapter 3 in the store. I absolutely love this timepiece, it’s amazing and full of surprises – there are two hidden panels in the dial which reveal a second time zone and day/night indicator, making it not just elegant but also technologically very impressive.

Ga m e o f H o p e It’s great to see people giving back and helping.

Michael Essien’s Game of Hope benefits four worthy charities, providing for children with disabilities and needy mothers and children, as well as other great causes. He called on his footballer friends to play a game in Ghana for the charities, part of a five-year plan to transform the lives of the children there. www.michaelessiengh. com/foundation/projectundertaken.html

reveals what’s on his radar this month

P i p po P er ez The newest addition to our portfolio is Florencebased jewellery brand Pippo Perez. It’s still fairly young and produces beautifully quirky pieces, using a lot of brightly coloured stones. The designs are bold and vibrant, and fit in with Frost’s ethos perfectly.

Gay da m a k The popularity of Gaydamak is soaring.

Everyone loves the brand’s hand bracelets but the new bangles will be just as in-demand.

They’re delicate, incredibly intricate, and perfect for summer.

Bag li o n i H ot el One of London’s grandest hotels, just a stone’s throw from Hyde Park, the Baglioni represents Italian hospitality at its best.

From the five-star fitness centre to the worldclass dining room and, frankly, jaw-droppingly beautiful suites, we always recommend this as a place to stay for any friends of Frost who are visiting the capital.

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TURBINE XL, A1050/1 TECHNOLOGY OF THE DOUBLE ROTOR.

Made by movement

WWW.PERRELET.COM

108 New Bond Street, London, W1S 1EF Tel: 020 3372 0108 www.frostoflondon.co.uk

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26/07/2013 27/04/2012 11:37 10:33

- fas h i o n & ac c ess o r i es -

frostoflondon.co.uk

01

Right to the point Luxury doesn’t come sharper than the newest accessories from Frost of London 01 Jason of Beverly Hills Known for his outrageous diamond pieces, Jason Arasheben has surpassed himself with this dramatic diamond and sapphire syringe ring.

02 Jacob & Co.

03 Messika

04 Pippo Perez

05 Theo Fennell

Get some cuff love, courtesy of Jacob & Co.’s hourglass floating diamond cufflinks.

Femmes fatale can tame their tresses with this glamorous Messika Eden hair accessory, available in 18ct white, yellow or rose gold.

Sharpen your style with Pippo Perez’s nautical string bracelet, and its white gold and diamond razor blade.

Limited to just 100 pieces, this intriguing sterling-silver Jack the Ripper paper knife is not for the faint-hearted.

Presented in a box imprinted with a bloodstained 19th-century murder site map, it’s a truly dark affair.

From £10,900

From £5,620

£POA

£POA

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- o bj ects o f d es i r e -

Pippo Perez Florence-born brand Pippo Perez has everyday fine jewellery at the heart of its philosophy, with designs inspired by a variety of international cultures. Distinctive colourful pavĂŠ elements take a playful cue from both the animal world and ancient symbols, showcased on a stunning range of bracelets, pendants, rings and brooches.

frostoflondon.co.uk

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Swiss movement, English heart

Bespoke Unitas 6497 hand-wound movement (Calibre JJ02) from master watchmaker, Johannes Jahnke / Each piece, of only 250, personally assembled by Johannes in our Swiss atelier / Supremely engineered, 43mm, 316L stainless steel case with full diameter transparent case-back / Unique serial number engraved on case and movement / Premium Louisiana alligator deployment strap / 5 year movement guarantee

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26/07/2013 11:38 16/07/2013 15:24

- g o o d t i m es -

Words – Scott Manson

LeBron James - 45 -

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- g o o d t i m es -

n et

Gains - 46 -

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23/07/2013 15:56

Miami Heat basketball star LeBron James is a man-mountain in more than just his stature. He’s not only a true icon of a generation, enjoying incredible success on the basketball court, and a role model and supporter of youth sport, he’s also an all-round nice guy with excellent taste in watches, as Tempus discovered…

Q: Tell us about being a global brand ambassador for Audemars Piguet.

It’s a proud thing for me to be associated with such a unique and respected brand. I’ve always said that there are nice similarities between Audemars Piguet and a number of the ambassadors they welcome in. By that I mean it’s about striving for excellence, recognising the need for precision and wanting to come across in a way that is measured and exact.

I think as competitors we all have to be like that. Of course, we’re human so we all fall short from time to time, but when you have a quality wristwatch, that’s something that never lets you down.

There’s not yet been a watch created by the Audemars Piguet brand that could be worn on a basketball court though?

True. I don’t think that would quite work! A quality wristwatch is for

045-048_QA Good times_SB.indd 47

a special occasion or a special way of dressing. I must admit, when I first got into the pro’ game I was all about tracksuits and sweatshirts and trainers. I would dress like that all of the time.

Nowadays I like to wear suits, smart wear, and a good wristwatch works really well with that.

And you need to dress up for your multiple business projects, too?

Well, yes, I have some good business interests away from the basketball court. Of course I have my ambassador work with a number of brands, but I’ve always been interested in the business world and I’ve always enjoyed the thrill of business. As a person, I want to always be more than what I am at any point in time, and one day when I can’t play basketball I want another angle.

an exclusive timepiece that will mark our partnership – it will be the ultimate symbol of it. But working with the manufacturer is also very important for what it offers the LeBron James Family Foundation, which is all about philanthropic concerns and empowering children and singleparent households.

It’s about hope and beating adversity and Audemars Piguet is a great vehicle for that.

You’re considered one of the greatest athletes of your generation.

How does it feel to have that sort of praise layered on you?

Well, I have a big heart and if someone thinks that of me I’m very touched by it. I’m just a normal person from Akron, Ohio, living a crazy dream. I always think this should be someone else’s dream, but it’s actually mine and I’m absolutely blessed and very grateful for

that. This is why I have to give something back.

Miami Heat won the NBA Championship again this year. That must have been an incredible feeling.

It was. We were celebrating hard and this year I just wanted to take it all in. It was a blur last time and almost over before I’d had time to really appreciate what we’d done, but this year was an even bigger achievement and an even Opposite: the Audemars Piguet global ambassador shoots (and most likely) scores. Here: James deep in thought on the court

So you can learn from the people at Audemars Piguet?

Well, I am excited to collaborate with them on

23/07/2013 15:57

- g o o d t i m es -

bigger celebration! I still love the feeling of winning and everyone is driven to make it three in a row next year.

How do you keep yourself focused through what is a long season?

Well, we have to keep ourselves mentally and physically tuned in at all times. Even on the off-season I’m always working on my game – new things I should do, new ways I might look to rise to the pressure. But listen, you need luck to win NBA Championships – rebounds, lucky shots, unlucky events for the opposition. Sometimes

you get a second chance; sometimes you think the moment has gone. This is life. At the end, as long as you give everything you’ve got – in life just as in sport – you have a chance of doing something. If you don’t believe and you don’t give it your all, then you often don’t deserve to win. There’s someone who wants it as much as you and the margins are so small, so why should it not be them?

You’ve had criticism in the past, both on and off the basketball court. How do you take that?

It doesn’t bother me anymore. Social media

makes everything challenging because news is in your face 24/7, but I tune out from a lot of outside noise. And we all make mistakes – we all have ups and downs. You go through things and learn from them, get better, and when the same thing comes around again

Basketball legend James believes that “a quality wristwatch is for a special occasion”

you respond differently.

When I’m on the court it’s about blocking out everything and having belief. If I’ve done it before I have to tell myself I can do it again.

From top: ‘King James’ in full flight at London’s Olympics last year, and sharing a golden moment with Kevin Durant.

What gives you the most satisfaction in your life?

Outside of my family, actually I get most satisfaction operating as a team member rather than an individual. I would rather I feed my team-mates and work as a team to win, rather than taking the shots and the plaudits myself.

LeBron James wears the AP Royal Oak Offshore Volcano Watch, the Legacy and the Grand Prix watches. audemarspiguet.com

Anything to do with watches that gives you ultimate satisfaction?

I’ve got a watch winder – that’s pretty cool!

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E P I C

X

Titanium Mechanical Hour Minute Skeleton

N e w Yo r k + 1 . 2 1 2 . 7 1 9 . 5 8 8 7 Geneva +41.22.310.6962 jacobandco.com

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- s ly d e -

Words – Scott Manson

FACE / FF New independent brand Revelation’s designs are living up to their name. Look on their works, ye mighty, and rejoice!

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- R EV ELAT I O N -

W

hen it comes to innovation in the timepiece world, it’s the independent watchmakers who are really pushing the envelope – think of the wild styling of Stepan Sarpaneva or Konstantin Chaykin’s haute horology or the brilliance of Richard Mille. To that illustrious band of free spirits, we can now add the name Revelation.

Although the Swiss brand launched in 2007 with the high-end R01 model, which resembled a waterproof pocket watch, the brand has since launched several more models – including a coveted chronograph – before showcasing its latest, fabulously inventive piece, the R04.

This is a high complication model, featuring a tourbillon and in-house movement, but one that, unlike some complex models, never sacrifices bells and whistles for legibility.

Anouk Danthe, who co-founded the company with partner (in life and business) Olivier Leu, explains that the problem with highly intricate

watches is that they can sometimes lose sight of the key element of their purpose, which is to tell the time.

“Putting so many complications on a watch can affect legibility,” she says. “When you have open-worked or translucent dials on top of numerous features, it can be hard to tell the time. Our solution was to find a system that showed the beauty of the movement, and that was also instantly legible.”

This required the duo to come up with a stateof-the-art case – a horological breakthrough, no less – which they have dubbed the ‘magical dial’. In short, it allows the wearer to sport a watch that, on one setting, shows the dial clearly, and with a twist of a disc, reveals the entire movement below.

“It’s made of a special optical system – the case alone comprises 71 parts – which was built in conjunction with the Centre Suisse d’Electronique et de Microtechnique – who created two polarising discs with opposing nanometric structures. No glass exists like this on the market and it was a highly technical challenge,” says Anouk.

The result is nothing short of spectacular: a system that allows wearers to admire the

OPEN CHAMPION: The Revelation R01, resembling a waterproof pocket watch, uses a secret spring to open the case and reveal the movement

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“When you have open-worked or translucent dials it can be hard to tell the time. Our solution was a system that showed the beauty of the movement and that was also instantly legible”

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-R EV ELAT I O N -

FOLLOW THAT: Anouk Danthe (below, with partner Olivier Leu) says only one watchmaker in the world is capable of making the R04

“I’d had experience with high-complication models so I knew we could pull this off. But only one man knows how to produce this watch”

In brief

Which other brands do you admire? workmanship of the movement without sacrificing useability.

Anouk and Olivier are no strangers to quality timepieces. Before launching Revelation, Anouk worked for the likes of Jaeger-LeCoultre, Omega and Audemars Piguet, while Olivier plied his trade with over 80 watch brands, including Piaget, Hermes and TAG Heuer.

“I’ve been privileged enough to work on some fantastic watches,” says Anouk. “I was part of the team that relaunched the Reverso at JLC [ Jaeger-LeCoultre], worked during the George Daniels Co-Axial era at Omega and was involved in the design of the Royal Oak Concept watch at AP [Audemars Piguet].

“In terms of watch industry heroes, Günter Blümlein, an entrepreneurial genius who relaunched A. Lange & Söhne and defined a vision for IWC and JLC is the most impressive person I worked with. To have the drive to relaunch a brand, and an East German brand at that, at the same price point as Patek was a daring move that paid off.”

Working at this high level meant that Anouk was comfortable with the idea of launching a tourbillon model, with the movement mounted in an incredibly tricky fashion, at a super-luxe retail cost.

“I’d had lots of experience working with highcomplication models so I knew we could pull it off,” she says. “We use a freelance watchmaker to make the plate, the spring for the barrel, and so on. However, he desperately needs an apprentice. He is the only one who knows how to produce this watch and that knowledge needs to be passed down. There are many challenges – the escapement is in an unusual place for example, it’s very difficult to mount. We have over 40 different suppliers, and 300 components, for this piece – we need that new watchmaking talent to come through!”

An emotional product, made with passion and precision, Revelation is a genuine eyeopener, and a watch brand that will surely strike a chord with collectors worldwide. We await its next ‘big reveal’ with interest.

I think JLC’s novelties are awesome, and I am also a total AP freak. Richard Mille is also brilliant – I love his work.

It’s fair to say that he is the father of all the independent watch brands.

And what do you dislike in watch design?

I hate the extreme side of it. Big numbers, giant faces, wild and crazy designs. Watches should be elegant.

What’s the best piece of advice you were ever given in your career?

Never take no for an answer.

What would you love to be able to do in watch design, if the technology was available?

I’d like to use lights in watches, putting a glow on the dial somehow.

It’s a limited-power issue though.

Hopefully, that will be addressed in years to come.

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26/07/2013 11:52

- o n li n e r ep u tat i o n s -

Words – James Kirkham

the

erasable era Shady past? Career cock-up? Howard Hughes complex?

Keep it between you and your online reputation manager

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- o n li n e r ep u tat i o n -

EVERYONE, from a low-life street gangster to a captain of industry, has a rep’ to protect.

Without it, you have nothing. It’s a concept that been part of society for thousands of years, and protecting your good name is an essential part of doing business.

But we live in an era where everything has been logged. There is no escape from mistakes with every transgression, however slight, noted and reported. Every photograph is documented. Every comment is recorded.

Almost all of us have some form of digital shadow, easily accessible to anyone with even a passing knowledge of search engines. Which raises the question, just how spotless is your virtual reputation?

For those with a less-than-clean record, there is a growing army of people taking your reputation very seriously indeed, and fighting back on your behalf. In fact, their livelihood is dependent on ensuring your name remains solid. This mysterious dark art has been dubbed online reputation management, and it’s one of the digital world’s fastest-growing businesses.

Think of it as adding some virtual Tipp-Ex to your life. We’re already familiar with the carefully cultivated LinkedIn page that makes you appear more professional and connected than you really are. Or the meticulously stagemanaged Facebook profile, full of fun times and incredible experiences and which make you seem like you’ve travelled more than Michael Palin on a particularly aggressive air miles drive.

Online rep’ management takes it a step further, to that most important of search moments, Google’s page one, altering it so that only positive things about you appear there.

In some ways, this rewriting of the past so we can no longer discern what is and isn’t true feels like the dystopian science fiction of William

Gibson or George Orwell, but it’s happening right here, right now.

I met up with an expert to tell me more.

Simon Wadsworth, founder of online reputation management business Igniyte has been in the digital and online business since the late 1990s.

One of the few successful internet entrepreneurs to make it past those heady days, in 10 months Wadsworth’s latest venture has quadrupled its turnover.

“If you’re in the spotlight,” he says, “then you should be investigating your online reputation.”

More than 70% of his client base comprises high-net-worth individuals, from company CEOs to TV presenters, politicians and government officials. This isn’t just about cleaning house, though. Wadsworth’s team will often look to cut off the offending material at the source, contacting the blog or site that might be housing the offending material and looking to influence them through copyright or libel law.

Says Wadsworth: “We can quickly ensure your social presence is intact and up to date, as the influence of the right kind of material on the likes of LinkedIn will go a long way to blasting away unwanted attention from other, lesser platforms.”

This is particularly relevant to those clients who have had career-shattering incidents – something that ends up defining them for the rest of their working life, often accusations that may have been misplaced. Being identified in a court case or being wrongly accused almost never comes with a full public apology, and age does not wither its digital influence. Indeed, the link-building nature of Google means the story could gain strength over time.

Alternatively, some clients are looking for the service to help them achieve complete

DON’T QUOTE ME: is your past giving you unwanted backchat?

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“If you’re in the spotlight, then you should be investigating your online reputation”

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“The right kind of material on major social media will go a long way to blasting away unwanted attention from other platforms”

How to clean up your digital presence The problem Someone searches Google for your name, brand or company. As well as finding your site, they also see negative listings and comments from other blogs, forums, media and other sources. They may also see negative Google search suggestions.

The solution ■ Online reputation specialists approach the offending sites and challenge them to remove the content where appropriate.

■ They then manage and promote your current online assets (such as social media profiles) to boost them up through the rankings.

■ They find relevant powerful sites to list you or your company (for example industry organisation websites) that will rank high in Google for your name.

■ They release positive content and news related to you and spread this across the internet to counter anything negative.

■ They promote neutral content that is already ranking where appropriate.

■ The result is that negative sites drop down out of sight. Additionally, companies such as Igniyte can set up new sites or social media related to you or your brand, helping to further push positive content.

igniyte.co.uk

anonymity. This is often the case with billionaire businessmen who may not want online pointers to them or their lives, or for those looking to safeguard themselves against identity fraud.

This, then, is not some geeky internet tool but a very real crisis management service.

Forget the old-school PR guru who can keep a celebrity client’s stories out of the tabloids, Wadsworth’s team has a much more holistic, all-encompassing approach He talks of a TV presenter who wanted Igniyte to go through every image of him currently residing online and clean up those where he was “not looking cool enough” – like a sort of vanity vacuuming session – and the female star who wanted naked photos from herr past removed. In the latter’s case, Wadsworth pushed the images way down the search listings, giving her renewed confidence when pursuing career opportunities.

Although I’m unaware of any full-frontal shots of myself existing online, I took the opportunity to examine my own digital footprint. On Googling my name, the first thing I noticed is another James Kirkham right at the top of the search results. Some American motor racing author who has the .com domain.

What a cheek.

Next up was my Twitter profile, confirming the Igniyte advice that attending to your social ecosystem is a crucial component, as it ranks so highly on the vital first page. The following five links were all covered by LinkedIn and with a couple of press articles in between, there was nothing that caused me to break sweat.

A few pages down, though, and the first questionable post appeared. Someone who I’d never met decided to tell people on a blog just

how rude I was, given his multiple calls and emails attempting to meet me. Crikey. Although not exactly defamatory and in all likelihood completely true, it’s the kind of response to a search engine query which no one likes to see.

This is where reputation management is such an attractive proposition. For me, this would be just a light airbrushing – like going for a spray tan before a holiday – nothing too serious, but ensuring you’re looking the best you possibly can in the eyes of the world.

We’re a world of global reviewers and we appraise everything. Our life is woven indelibly into a neverending feedback loop. As soon as we partake in anything, we react, broadcast, review, then indulge in the comment and feed back to our own feedback. Little wonder that we need to devise increasingly smart ways to ensure that feedback is nothing but positive.

There is a darker side to this too. If I’ve committed a crime then this ability to wipe the slate clean is a godsend. Wadsworth says he has had calls from drug dealers, paedophiles, and people who are on parole, all desperate to clear their Google footprint. This is where he draws the line, a moral code on which he’s built his business.

For less principled online rep companies though, there are plenty of clients willing to pay big money to brush up their credentials, erasing all trace of past wrongs and, in many cases no doubt, allowing them to continue on the same unsavoury path.

Whatever your opinion of its ethical position, online reputation management is key for anyone in the spotlight. For that reason we all need to take note. Your good name might be at risk if you don’t.

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- s cato la d el t em po-

Words - Hannah Silver

g n i n Tu r t n i o p

tola del a c S w o h l We revea uickly become the sq ers Tempo ha d for watch wind n go-to bra and safes

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- s cato la d el t em po-

“ We’ll a l h a n d c ra w a y s p r o d u c e l o v i n g l f te d p r o d u c t s , y m o s t m i h e w n to t h e n u te d e ta i l s ”

In terms of horological tipping points – the moment that you turn from watch owner to full on collector – the acquisition of a watch winder is surely key. For those looking to take the step into true timepiece aficionado mode, it’s time to get acquainted with Italian company Scatola del Tempo. Since the company launched in 1990, it’s been the go-to brand for watch winders and safes.

The founder of the company, Sandro Colarieti, came up with the concept. Looking for a way to wind his quantièmes perpétuels (perpetual calendars) effortlessly, he spent several sleepless nights designing a revolutionary new way in which automatic watches are powered up. He then presented his idea to Patek Philippe’s technical engineers, who helped to make his dream a reality.

Colarieti’s daughter, Cristiana Colarieti, who has been working for the company since 1991, became CEO in 2004 upon the death of her father.

“Taking over my father’s business makes me feel proud,” she says.

She’s kept the original company philosophy alive, while not being afraid to bring in changes. Scatola del Tempo still produces high quality pieces, with all goods handmade in Italy and the winder’s engines produced in Switzerland, but Cristiana has introduced

technical and aesthetic changes, restyling all models and bringing them bang up to date.

“The biggest problem has been convincing people I didn’t want to sell the company, as many detractors spread the rumour I did, most likely for their own personal interest. It’s something I won’t forget.”

Although, the recession wasn’t an easy time, as has been the case worldwide, any major problems have been avoided thanks to the introduction of new products that were more affordable.

Winders may not be a mass-market product, but every watch connoisseur is keen to own one and new watch collectors contact Cristiana every day. It’s simple economics, she explains: “When you have a collection of perpetual calendars you need a watch winder and you need to make the right choice or your collection could be damaged.”

It’s this dedication that’s enabled the company to stay ahead of the game in a market now rife with competition. “We were alone in the market for many years, but once the patent expired in 2000, hundreds of companies producing watch winders and cases made their appearance, most of which are Chinese. We have to say that, in general terms, the competition doesn’t frighten us, although obviously we pay attention to the new pieces being released.”

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Previous page: The beautiful 1RT Gucci Time Box. This spread: Attention to detail is a hallmark of Scatola del Tempo

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The popular Timesafe is fit for royalty… and actors… and sportsmen… all Scatola del Tempo clients

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- s cato la d el t em po-

rmly i f e r ’ e “W lity a u q t a ed th convinc liability are and re estment ” an inv

Right: the very reasonably priced Rotor One HDG watch winder

Scatola del Tempo has been producing its winders for all the big names in the watch industry, including Breguet, Breitling, Cartier, IWC and Jaeger-LeCoultre. The work that goes into each piece is incredibly meticulous.

“To produce a 7RT OS, one of our best sellers, takes more than 100 manual steps and we usually have at least three craftsmen working on the model,” Cristiana explains.

There’s a wide range of different models and thus a large price bracket – anything from £450 for an entry level model up to £200,000 for the 1RTM Diamonds, which at nearly 90 carats is a very special piece indeed.

It’s still the classic creations that Cristiana is most proud of and the Timesafe, launched in 2007, remains one of the best products on the market. Scatola del Tempo’s decision to collaborate with one of the oldest and most important producers of safes continues to pay off, with results including beautiful hand-crafted pieces with independent rotating compartments that can rewind automatic watches or quantièmes perpétuels.

Every safe produced is custom built and fully personalised, from the number of winders fitted to the shade of leather. The brand is currently working on a piece for an important – and anonymous – client, who has requested alligator skin lining and solid gold details.

“We do get many special requests and we do a lot for royal families,

famous actors and sports champions, although we don’t reveal who. Probably our most extravagant request was for a safe covered in pink crocodile leather with pink drawers made from butterfly shapes.”

For a standard model, though, the choice is still huge – overall, there are 29 different models in the collection, made from anything from leather to wood and all offering different specifications, keeping even those with the most intricate watch collections happy. The company is constantly pushing the boundaries, with the safes presented at Basel this year being entirely leather-lined and, in a world first, able to hold any size of watches, from the most delicate ladies’ models to oversized pilots’ watches.

For Cristiana, it’s very much a labour of love. “We’re firmly convinced that quality and reliability are an investment,” she says.

“We’ll always produce handcrafted products, lovingly hewn to the most minute details.”

Advanced technology combined with old-fashioned considered craftsmanship means its products are not only useful but also works of art in themselves, while a host of fresh ideas and a new focus on avant-garde techniques should keep business ticking along nicely for a long while to come. scatoladeltempo.com

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26/07/2013 10:34

The Art of Bespoke Tailoring

There is no substitute for experience

RAJ MIRPURI BESPOKE CLOTHIERS since 1976 Geneva

London 110 New Bond Street, Entrance on Brook Street T: 020 7907 9110

1er Etage, 12 Rue du Marche T: 022 816 3780

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27/06/2013 13:36

- p i lots' watc h es -

Words - Ken Kessler

high life hands on

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- p i lots' watc h es -

6

classics If you want to be pedantic about it, all modern wristwatches are pilots’ watches.

It was pioneering aviator Albert SantosDumont who asked his friend Louis Cartier – as in the legendary jewellery house – to find a way for him to be able to check his watch while in flight. He produced a watch that Santos-Dumont could wear on his wrist – and it’s still in production.

While this wasn’t the invention of the wristwatch – as history reveals other isolated examples, including a model in the 1880s for the German Navy – it did kickstart the style that would all but kill off the pocket watch.

When war came in 1914, early wristwatches proved a boon for the infantry, removing the need to pull a watch out of one’s pocket while in combat conditions. >

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Here are six true classic pilots’ watches that you can actually buy, models with roots going back 60 years or more. And even if you don’t fly, they’re about as cool as watches get

23/07/2013 16:43

2

BREGUET T YPE XX (from £5,700)

Designed in the early 1950s for the French military, the Type XX was based on chronographs developed in WWII. Its legibility was superlative and its stopwatch capabilities made it a must-have for navigators needing to mark time in specific intervals.

Reborn in the 1990s, the Type XX has grown into a complete family of models available to civilians, including those who prefer a hit of bling. Unlike the original, the new Types XX and XXI are automatics, but they retain the flyback function needed for flying search patterns.

This provides instant restarting of the chronograph hand after it returns to zero. Available as the Aéronavale and as the Transatlantique with date indication – and in gold, if you insist.

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BREITLING NAVITIMER 01 (from £5,760)

First appearing in 1952, the Breitling Navitimer is known to all as having a built-in slide-rule around the circumference of its dial. A three-dial chronograph, the Navitimer was devised with the input of real pilots, including the early involvement of the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA), for whom special models were issued with their logo in place of Breitling’s own. A true classic in every sense of the word, it has been one of Breitling’s most popular models for over 60 years, spawning dozens of variants, including the 24-hour Cosmonaute, models with white dials, gold or steel and gold versions and many others. Purists will opt for black dial, steel case and a black leather strap.

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Although the First World War was also the debut for fighting aircraft, aviators operating between the two world wars were the ones who defined the requirements for what we now recognise as a proper pilot’s watch. They included – most obviously – superior legibility, for literal ‘on the fly’ time-telling.

Absolute timekeeping precision was also required in the days before GSM and the other devices that made navigation an automatic function. As with errors in longitude at sea, flying by time-versusdistance (as when Lindbergh flew across the Atlantic) could prove risky and pilots could miss their destinations by many miles.

Lindbergh actually worked with Longines to create a pilot’s navigational watch that – to this day – bears his name and remains in the company’s catalogue. >

GLYCINE AIRMAN 1953 (£1,760)

Damn, the early 1950s were good years for pilot watches.

Glycine grabbed the concept of commercial travel with both fists – or wrists – to create a fabulous multi-time zone watch called the Airman, appropriately enough.

It featured a 24-hour dial, augmented by clues so the observer didn’t mistake it for a 12-hour read-out: with this timepiece, force of habit might find you digesting 12 noon as six o’clock. In conjunction with a rotating outer bezel, the Airman could provide the owner with the time in two zones on a 24-hour clock. Like the Navitimer, it has sired many versions, including ones with three time zones, 12-hour main dials and other functions, but seen here is the limited edition reissue of the original, with super-cool cream dial.

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IWC PILOT’S WATCH MARK XVII (£3,700 strap; £4,600 bracelet)

Military requirements did more for pilot watch design than just about any other criteria, and IWC – one of the brands most closely linked to pilots’ watches – has been producing dedicated models since 1936. Along with the big Fliegeruhr models made for the Nazis, IWC created a family designated by ‘marks’, the antimagnetic Mk 11 of 1948-1980s being regarded as the definitive pilot’s watch by many collectors. Now up to Mk XVII, the model features the iconic triangle at 12 o’clock, so you always know which way is right-side up, plus two features denied the Mk 11 – automatic winding and the date in a window at 3 o’clock.

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ROLEX GMT-MASTER II (£5,950)

A masterpiece from the Class of ’54, the Rolex GMT-Master was designed in conjunction with pilots from Pan-Am Airways. Rolex was already known as a watch for professionals, thanks to the robustness of the Oyster case. Less chunky than the Submariner it resembles, the GMT-Master added a fourth hand to the hours-minutes-seconds read-out of normal timekeepers, the extra hand providing a second time zone on a 24-hour scale. Because the second zone was referenced to a rotating bezel, Rolex cleverly produced the bezel in two colours for easy understanding of AM versus PM. Previously in red-and-blue (known to collectors as the ‘Pepsi-Cola’), the latest model’s bezel is black-and-blue. And, yes, it’s already referred to as ‘The Bruiser’.

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ZENITH MONTRE D’AÉRONEF T YPE 20 ANNUAL CALENDAR (£7,300)

With the advent of radio communication, the need for precise calculations when dropping bombs, crossing time zones and other military influences, other criteria became important, including immunity to magnetism and shock. When civilian air travel became a viable means of transportation in the 1950s, the display of two or more time zones proved useful.

Long after electronics have taken over, new manufacturers of mechanical pilots’ watches continue to appear, including Bell & Ross and Bremont, a testimony to the genre’s appeal. While no contemporary pilot needs a mechanical wristwatch, given the fly-by-wire nature of modern aircraft, aviators think like divers, who often wear mechanical wristwatches as a back-up to their diving computers: when the batteries or electrics fail, a mechanical wristwatch will see you through. And if you’re a real pilot, you’ll even know how to use your watch’s hands as a compass.

Try that with a dead iPhone.

Most enthusiasts know that Zenith – whose history with aviation watches is as genuine as it gets, thanks to its presence on the wrist of pioneering aviator Louis Blériot in 1909 – is the only brand that can legally put the words ‘pilot’s watch’ on its dials, thanks to some wise copyrighting.

Regardless of this gambit, Zenith has been issuing models that recall the oversized watches from aviation’s early days – when nearly all wristwatches were converted from pocket watches. Zenith’s retro-styled 48mm calendar watch features the ‘onion’ winding crown of the period, massive ‘cathedral’ hands and numerals for maximum legibility, and power from the El Primero, probably the finest automatic chronograph movement ever devised. Even the brown alligator leather strap oozes period authenticity.

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R O P T O P H E A V E N

The thrill of the open road: best served in the open air It might only make all too brief appearances above our heads in the UK, but when the sun is out, drivers’ thoughts turn to open-topped cars. There has never been more choice either, with virtually every top marque offering a convertible, roadster, cabriolet, spider or, in the case of Aston Martin, a Volante.

Whatever you call it, opening a car up to the sky immediately makes it more glamorous,

whether it’s a mundane hatchback or the hottest supercar. Here is our pick if you’re in the market for the newest open-topped cars out there, some more sensible than others and a couple more than a little bit unhinged.

That seven of our 10 choices are British isn’t by design, though it does underline a refreshing optimism about the car climate, at least

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Words – Kyle Fortune

Jaguar F-Type V8S

Sound and vision with the F-Type V8S, as not only is the new roadster an absolute joy to look at, but it’s got a boisterous exhaust and engine note that’s as overt as any Italian exotic, and performance not far off. If that £79,950 asking price is a touch too steep there are V6 models, which are nearly as easy on the ear, but for the full fizzing, crackling and rumbling overture only this V8S will do.

£79,950

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Lamborghini Aventador Roadster

If you want every head to turn as you pass the Aventador Roadster will achieve exactly that. Yet there’s substance behind the eye-grabbing looks: Lamborghini’s flagship entering the sphere of the hypercar, yet retaining a supercar-sized price tag.

It’ll do 217mph, thanks to a 700bhp V12. That’s all you need to know.

£288,840

Lotus Exige S Roadster

It isn’t practical, but then it isn’t supposed to be.

Neither is it very easy to get in and out of, but removing the roof does make it more accessible than its coupé relation. The roof is pretty rubbish, so leave it at home. The Lotus, as ever, is all about the driving. It doesn’t disappoint either, the steering among the crispest and most tactile you can have on any car. You either get it or you don’t and those that do absolutely love this car.

£52,900

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Rolls-Royce Phantom Drophead Coupé

Not particularly new – unless you count a mild facelift at the start of the year – but the Phantom Drophead Coupé represents the absolute pinnacle of luxury open-topped motoring. Nothing matches it for indulgence, the machine seating four in glorious comfort and providing effortless performance. Until Bentley arrives with its Mulsanne-based rival, the Rolls has the rarefied ultra-luxury open-topped market to itself. Oh, and that tiny pricetag is just a starting point, of course: factor in at least 10% on top for options.

£292,600

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BAC Mono

The what? Exactly, the BAC Mono is different, fabulously so, and if you’re going to indulge in an open-topped car why not make it the most exciting, pure driving car that’s available today. Taking elements from racing cars – the paddle-shifted gearbox comes from an F3 car – a 2.3-litre Cosworth engine and fully adjustable pushrod suspension – and mate it to a carbon-fibre and steel safety cell, then add some wheels, numberplates and lights.

You sit in the middle, with a helmet on. Nothing, at any price, will give a bigger thrill.

£74,950

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Outermost beauty meets intrinsic value!

What is it that makes safes by DÜttling so unique? For one thing, it’s their unparalleled quality, which is the result of the refined locksmith craftsmanship now in its fourth generation. Another thing is their incomparable beauty of which you are the source: your wishes combined with an almost unlimited selection of materials and fitments make each piece a one-of-a-kind eye-catcher.

Doettling.com

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Bentley Continental GT Speed Convertible

Need to do 200mph in your open-topped car? Want to bring three friends along for the ride?

Then this is the only car you can currently travel at with four-up at the double-ton. It’ll do it with impunity too, Bentley’s appetite for gaining speed only matched by its consumption of fine wood and leather hides in its gloriously hand-finished interior.

Power comes from a 625bhp twin-turbo W12, which drives all four wheels. It’ll do 200-plus all day long, but those rear-seat passengers won’t thank you for it as it’d be a bit blustery back there.

£168,985

McLaren 12C Spider

Even the clinical precision and brilliance of McLaren can be cut through with a removed roof, the 12C Spider adding so much to the driving experience of McLaren’s Ferrari 458 fighter that it’s arguably the only one to have. The 3.8-litre twin-turbocharged V8 pushes out 625bhp, which is enough to allow it to reach 204mph and 62mph in 3.1 seconds. Quick enough then, and really quite brilliant, too.

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Aston Martin Vanquish Volante

Does any car name sound more seductive than the Aston Martin Vanquish Volante? Arguably not, and the Aston has the looks to live up to the name. As if the coupé wasn’t gorgeous enough, the Volante removes its roof, adds a subtly double-humped rear deck and turns up the desirability even further. Power comes from the same 6-litre V12 as its coupé relation, the 573bhp Vanquish Volante able to match its top speed too, though adding a few pounds to the asking price.

£199,995

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Chevrolet Corvette Stingray Convertible

The convertible has been part Corvette DNA since its early incarnations helped to write the legends of the American open road, and is still designed simultaneously with the hardtop so there is no performance shortfall to spoil your open-air experience. The 2014 edition is Chevy’s big push to let the Old World in on Stingray lore; European models get bigger wheels and brakes, as well as sport-tuned suspension and steering. Plugged into a mighty 6.2litre V8 generating 450bhp, it’s not going to be short of admirers this side of the pond.

Maserati GranCabrio Sport

The GranCab was not only the fabled Italian marque’s first four-seater drop-top when it was unveiled in 2009, it was one of the most drop-dead gorgeous cars on the road. With an engine note as worthy of La Scala as the Modena test track, the only drawback was it was almost too elegant to push hard. Well, with literally the flick of a switch, the Sport solves that problem: one press and the power of the (souped-up) 4.7-litre V8 is fed through stiffer springs, better anti-roll bars and a new version of the Skyhook electronic damping system into one of the finest rides on the road.

From £61,495

£102,615

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28/05/2013 12:24 14:03 27/06/2013

- Q&A-

Words – Angus Davies

A question of time Step forward Peter Roberts, a horological legend who is as talented as he is publicity-shy

IN OUR BRAVE new digital world, self-promotion is all-encompassing.

Seemingly every aspect of our lives is documented across social media channels and, in many instances, the substance simply does not justify the rhetoric.

Refreshingly, renowned watchmaker Peter Roberts is the antithesis of this trend.

His modesty and reluctance to court the press belies an enormous talent, honed from years of working at the highest levels of the watch industry.

His former employers include Rolex, Garrard the Crown Jewellers and, most recently, Bremont, where he was technical director. Indeed, many with a passionate interest in haute horology will know of Mr Roberts. In his role as a watchmaking lecturer, he has schooled some of the industry’s brightest talents, including Stephen Forsey and Peter Speake-Marin.

A Fellow of the British Horological Institute, Peter recently embarked on

making the first watch to bear his own name: the Peter Roberts Concentrique Grand Complication 5.

It’s time – finally – for this English gentleman’s moment in the spotlight…

When did you first become interested in wristwatches?

My father was a collector of clocks and I would dabble with them. He also had a nice collection of watches. On the book shelves at home there were books on horology including a book by Donald De Carle called Practical Watch Repairing.

This was the book that brought me into watchmaking. I remember seeing the author had the letters FBHI after his name and my father explaining what the initials meant.

From an early age, I wanted to be a Fellow of the British Horological Institute.

I went on to study horology in Hackney Technical College [London] for two and a half years. During my time there, I made a

carriage clock – it was a great course with some fantastic lecturers. My first class passes here allowed me to travel to Switzerland to attend the respected WOSTEP (Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Educational Program) course.

You were the first British student to attend this course. How did you fare?

I remember working on my project, making a watch to their specification. The hand finishing was very onerous and I spent two and half days working on a fly back lever on a chronograph. It was skeletonised to the nth degree, beautifully burnished and polished. It worked perfectly.

I took it to my lecturer, Monsieur André Farine, feeling very proud of it. He looked at it for a long time. He operated it, checked it, everything worked fine. Then he looked up at me and said “it is very pretty, but not strong”. Then he took his tweezers, bent it back, curled it up and

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-q&A-

“I earned the rare title of Off icial Rolex Watchmaker. There is only one other in the UK”

said, “not strong enough, do it again”. At the time I was very upset, but when I look back, he was quite right. They were very tough teachers.

You worked for Rolex after studying WOSTEP, didn’t you?

Yes, I nearly went to work for IWC. I was always a huge fan of the Mark X after I bought one on Tottenham Court Road.

I can even remember what I paid for it: £17 10s 6d. It was all the money I had, but I knew I had to have the watch. I still have it to this day. The calibre 83 is such a beautiful movement.

Instead, I went to Rolex and earned the rare title of Official Rolex Watchmaker.

I know there are very few of us. I think there is only one other in the UK. While there, I also worked on my five hand project watch. I had seen a five hand watch in a book, but it was a generic rendering and not a watch that actually existed. It was this that provided the basis

for the current Peter Roberts Concentrique watch – the Grand Complication 5.

Returning to Hackney Technical College, this time as a lecturer, you taught some students who would go on to achieve critical acclaim – including Peter Speake-Marin and Stephen Forsey. Does this make you swell with pride?

I am very proud of what Peter and Stephen have achieved but I also remember some of my other students who have worked quietly in the background of the industry. They are not as famous, but are equally as impressive.

What are your favourite watches?

I have always liked chronographs, particularly the classic El Primero, 1969 Omega Speedmaster and Longines Calibre 30CH. The IWC Mk11 is also a firm favourite. They are elegant, functional, and beautifully designed.

Which timepiece trends have you identified of late?

I feel that watches might be returning to a more sensible size. There is also a trend towards using more and more new materials in watch movement manufacture – silicone, ceramics and so on.

While these materials may have their technical advantages, their main future use will be to cut costs. For the best quality watches, classic materials such as steel, brass and nickel should be used. These remain the best.

Which watchmaker do you hold in the highest esteem?

No question, it has to be the late George Daniels. He was the [most] individual watchmaker of the 20th century. When he started in the 1960s he did not have CNC machines and so on – he handmade all the parts himself and mastered all the skills.

He is sadly missed, but his legacy lives on. peterrobertswatches.com

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I N N O V A T I V E

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Words – Hannah Silver

la fem m e We present the most beautiful women’s watches known to mankind. You find the lady to wear them Women’s watches, although never neglected, have long had an unfair reputation as men’s watches’ more delicate cousins. Recently though, horologists have seen more potential for this thriving market, and many brands are beginning to release ranges designed exclusively for women for the first time. Boundaries are being pushed, whether in terms of jawdropping design or technical achievement, while many brands are simply keen to redefine the classic. From feather-adorned dials to a tourbillion that acts as a resting place for a jewel-encrusted parrot, we’ve selected the most exciting new timepieces on the market.

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Chanel Chanel’s beautiful new Mademoiselle Privé watches are a tribute to Coco Chanel’s favourite things, with the new Coromandel model referencing the black Chinese lacquer screens – or ‘coromandels’ – she kept in her Paris apartment. The decoration on the glossy black dial was engraved by hand, with the enamel miniature produced using the ‘grand feu’ technique by the queen of enamelling herself, Anita Porchet (see page 99 also). Luxury touches like the foliage crafted in 24-carat gold pillions and the white-gold hands make it perfect for the most glamorous nights. chanel.com

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Graff BabyGraff, the first jewelled women’s watch from Graff, has just launched the BabyGraff Trilogy. It’s inspired by three classic diamond cuts (emerald, heart and brilliant) which make for beautifully simple pieces, letting the flawless, precisely cut and invisibly set diamonds speak for themselves. graffdiamonds.com

Bulgari The Giardino Tropicale not only looks amazing, it has impressive technical credentials too. Beating at the heart of a beautifully decorated tropical garden is the first complication created expressly by Bulgari for women: a tourbillion no less, supported by a sapphire crystal bridge on which a parrot is perched.

The hand-painted dial is set with gemstones and dotted with 61 diamonds. bulgari.com

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Hermès In an uncharacteristically cheeky move, Hermès has released its classic Arceau model on a new bubblegum-pink, or ‘Lipstick’ strap.

The equestrian-style case is the same as the original ‘Arceau’ designed in 1978 by Henri d’Origny, its asymmetric strap attachments inspired by stirrups and the strap retaining a saddle stitch. hermes.com

I n sta n t c lass i cs

Blancpain With a mother-of-pearl dial and waves of diamonds, the Blancpain Grande Date avoids being too delicate thanks to its substantial size and impressive mechanical self-winding movement that’s composed of 495 parts, while an off-centre time display adds a quirky touch. blancpain.com

Breguet Breguet has such an illustrious history in the watchmaking world that you’d be hard pushed to find a piece from the brand that doesn’t endure. The latest Marine Chronograph Ladies is a case in point – now available without precious stones, its movement is still the Breguet Calibre 8827, the world’s smallest self-winding chronograph movement. It’s one of the most wearable, well-made ladies’ pieces out there. breguet.com

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Harry Winston After the unprecedented success of its Feathers watches last year, Harry Winston’s new Premier Feathers collection is sure to be an instant hit. Nelly Saunier, a supremely gifted feather artist, has once again turned her hand to these beautifully decorated (and ethically sourced) dials. harrywinston.com

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Vacheron Constantin Vacheron Constantin’s Métiers d’Art collections have become hugely anticipated. The latest in the series was revealed at SIHH to be Florilège, the first range designed exclusively for women. Three different dials pay tribute to delicate English botanical illustrations, with the plants featured taken from Robert John Thornton’s The Temple of Flora. The guilloché engravings and grand-feu cloisonné enamels are depicted in brilliant colours that are the result of several painstaking coats applied by master enamelleuse Anita Porchet. vacheron-constantin.com

Cartier Cartier’s Les Heures Fabuleuses collection, consisting of 41 extravagant pieces, was undoubtedly one of the highlights of the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in Geneva this year. Each watch has a secret touch, from a diamond serpent that can be removed to be worn as a brooch, to a parrot that is turned to reveal a dial. They all feature an eccentric assortment of animals, from panthers, snakes and birds to turtles and frogs depicted in bright, colourful gemstones. cartier.com

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Fi rst a n d fo r em o st Bulgari The line between watches and jewellery is increasingly blurred, and nowhere is this more evident than in Bulgari’s latest piece, the elegant Catene. Bulgari, of course, mastered chain bracelets long ago with the Serpenti, but this latest piece is markedly different. Made to circle the wrist twice, it looks simple but actually has a complex construction to ensure a smooth and comfortable fit. The semi-pavé version – with the pink-gold bracelet interspersed with 60 brilliant-cut diamonds – is compulsively tactile and addictively wearable. Wear it once, wear it forever. bulgari.com

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collage studio - photo tommaso sartori

DESIGN PORTRAIT.

Bend-Sofa is music to Kate and Davide. Bend-Sofa is designed by Patricia Urquiola. www.bebitalia.com

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Piaget Piaget is used to producing world-firsts, with the Altiplano Skeleton reputedly the world’s thinnest openworked automatic at just 5.34mm. Now, the brand’s quest for innovation has resulted in the first ever automatic gem-set skeleton movement. Adorning it are 259 diamonds and 11 black sapphire cabochons, with the process of setting the gems taking four days for just one movement. piaget.com

U-Boat Loved for its tough, unisex collections, U-Boat has branched into the women’s market for the first time with a selection of models launched at Basel this year. There’s nothing girly about these pieces, from an all-black watch with diamond-set hour markers, to a piece fitted with the world’s thickest bombée sapphire glass and a solid carbon GMT complication. They’re solid, resilient and exciting watches made for the woman who has no time for a mother-of-pearl dial or frivolous diamonds. uboatwatch.com

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f o t r the a I V I G

N

G

All present and correct: ten perfect corporate gifts, compliments of the world’s finest brands Corporate gifting is a tricky business, which is why so many companies resort to the wearily familiar default options of ties, cufflinks and the like. Luxury trips, stylish accessories and classic gadgets can all help to make the right impression. Here we’ve selected the perfect gifts for customers and colleagues alike.

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- g i ft I N G -

Words – Hannah Silver

iVIP BlackBOX The iVIP BlackBox is an ingenious concept - an exclusive subscription service, it contains a collection of the latest, most desirable products, hand-picked by experts, for the recipient to receive on a regular basis. The box could contain anything from wine to watches, high-tech gadgets to original artworks.

It’s a great business opportunity too, as subscribers receive shares with the first subscription, entitling them to become full shareholders after completing the first year’s membership. ivipworld.com

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Aston Martin Hampers are a classic gift, but for something seriously cool, consider this stylish summery picnic hamper from Aston Martin. It contains everything you need for an al fresco lunch, including bone china with platinum detailing, crystal champagne flutes and a lambswool rug. grantmacdonald.com/astonmartin

Christopher Ward Christopher Ward watches are beautifully made pieces without the luxury price tag.

This limited-edition Jumping Hour Mark II is one of the most precise jumping hour movements around, while a beautifully clean, crisp aesthetic keeps it looking classic. christopherward.co.uk

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A REFLECTION OF YOUR STYLE INTRODUCING THE STERLING COLLECTION Luxury Leather Goods and Accessories Hand Crafted in the United Kingdom

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26/07/2013 11:49 20/11/2012 11:23 19/11/12 4:26 PM

Nira Caledonia For a work trip with a difference, Nira Caledonia’s Heli-Golf package is ideal. It’s a luxury Scottish golfing break that starts with Bentley transfers from the airport and a helicopter ride to famous championship golf courses. The experience concludes with a gourmet dinner in Edinburgh and three nights of fun in the heart of the Scottish capital’s beautiful Georgian New Town. niracaledonia.com

David Linley Cigar-lovers will appreciate this classic rosewood humidor box, which has an engravable sterling silver plaque for personalisation purposes. It has space for 30 to 40 cigars and comes with a ‘cigar spa’ humidification system that keeps cigars in an ideal atmosphere, ensuring they don’t become too dry or too moist. davidlinley.com

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Johnnie Walker If in doubt, a good bottle of whisky is a surefire winner. This limited-edition bottle from Johnnie Walker, Odyssey, is a blend from just three distilleries and comes in a stylish, nautically inspired decanter. selfridges.com

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23/07/2013 14:35

Longthorne Gunmakers 100% English made shotguns

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26/07/2013 11:50

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Monster These new Monster Diesel Noise Division VEKTR headphones are one for the cooler client, combining high technology and fashion in a sharp, distinctive design. monsterproducts.com

Arsenal For a high-end football hospitality experience, a Superbox at Arsenal is hard to beat. It’s over three times bigger than the Executive Box and caters for up to 24 guests, who can enjoy a champagne reception and three course pre-match meal, as well as the chance to watch the match from luxurious leather armchairs. arsenal.com

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Montblanc Your pen says a lot about you, and this beautiful Montblanc special edition is ideal for signing that big deal in the boardroom. Designed as a tribute to Honoré de Balzac, it’s a sophisticated piece topped with a beautiful lid, embellished with turquoise lacquering and platinum and gold-plated rings. montblanc.com

Ettinger Ettinger’s hip flasks are perfect for that corporate shooting day, or to add a dash of devil-may-care to a late night in the office. Choose from a variety of cool coloured leathers and sizes. ettinger.co.uk

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Time_arc_ad_a_Layout 1 19/03/2013 17:32 Page 1

Rapport Watch Winders The Ultimate Winder for Prestige Automatic Watches

www.rapportlondon.com

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Prantl Prantl, Europe’s oldest luxury stationery brand, produces exquisite business and personal stationery using the highest-quality print techniques and materials. They’re happy to come to your office to discuss exact requirements, resulting in smart, bespoke business cards or headed notepaper. prantl.com

Aspinal of London Carry-on luggage should be stylish, hardwearing and versatile, and the Weekender from Aspinal is all of those and more.

Handmade from Italian calf leather by master craftsmen, it’s a highly elegant choice for frequent travellers. aspinaloflondon.com

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23/07/2013 14:37

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26/07/2013 20/08/2012 11:54 14:35

- s u p eryac h ts -

Words – Ellie Brade

Waves Three of the world’s finest vessels available for charter

There are four new jewels in the Mediterranean. Feast your eyes on the launches making the biggest splash this summer With the Mediterranean summer season reaching its peak, there has been a string of superyacht launches and many of these new boats on the block are drawing glances for all the right reasons.

Launched by Dutch yard Amels in May, the 55-metre Engelberg, with its sleek charcoal-coloured hull and superstructure of touched grey, has pared-back elegance.

The interior, by Enzo Enea and Focus Yacht Design,is a finely judged blend of sand and earth hues, with dashes of blues to pique interest. “Our vision for Engelberg evolved logically and naturally with the sea as our muse,” said Enea,

the Swiss head of Enea Landscape Architecture. Features such as an outdoor office and fold-out balcony in the main stateroom mean the yacht will be a fitting home from home for its family owners.

At 65 metres, Heesen’s newly launched Galactica Star is the first ‘fast displacement hull form’ for the Dutch yard and has been eagerly awaited since the concept was launched - and promptly snapped up - at the 2010 Monaco yacht show. The pioneering all-aluminium hull design meant the yacht was expected to deliver top speeds of 27 knots and a range of 4,200nm at 14 knots, all the while displaying

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Top: Lady M, the biggest superyacht yet from Palmer Johnson.

Above: Lady Candy, with a 180-degree panorama from the aft deck.

Previous page: Galactica Star’s pioneering hydrodynamic hull

good fuel efficiency. In sea trials, the yacht went even better the opulence Lady Candy will offer her owners. Due for and reached 28.8 knots, delivering a smooth ride while final delivery in July, Lady Candy will also be making an under way. The speed is complemented by elegant exterior appearance at the Monaco Yacht Show. lines by Omega Architects and a sophisticated interior by Palmer Johnson’s biggest yacht to date, the 64-metre Bannenberg & Rowell.

Lady M, was successfully launched in May. Showing off Benetti’s 55-metre Lady Candy was developed with the distinctively sleek Palmer Johnson lines, layered with extensive owner input, with the result being a yacht that the design nous of Italian creative house Nuvolari Lenard, lends itself to graceful summer entertaining. A beach club Lady M is not just a pretty face, with the ability to reach and open transom provide easy access to the sea, while the 28 knots and an all-aluminium semi-displacement hull. The sundeck has been designed to provide seating for large groups design balances and blends airy indoor areas with generous of people at a dining table and bar, without impeding service. outdoor deck spaces and standout features include a glassThe owner’s suite stretches full-beam on the sided swimming pool on the stern. upper deck aft, meaning there’s room to Fast, innovative and tailored for pleasure Ellie Brade is the take advantage of an 180-degree panoramic are the watchwords of the day, as these four editor of Superyacht view of the private aft deck. A glass-sided new yachts set the tone for a scorching Intelligence thesuperyachtgroup.com jacuzzi tops off the effect, and demonstrates summer season.

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29/04/2013 10:31

- M oto r i n g -

shooting

s ta rs

Words – Kyle Fortune

Bertone’s bespoke vision is the last word in auto exclusivity

Price

£1.5M (EST)

Performance

0-62MPH (0-100KM/H) 5.2 SECONDS

Top speed

190MPH (TBC)

Engine

6.0-LITRE V12, 476HP

Transmission

6-SPEED AUTOMATIC, REAR-WHEEL DRIVE

Construction ALUMINIUM

Barry Weir knew what he wanted and Italian styling house Bertone – famous for creating some beautiful production, concept and one-off cars for exacting clients – was the company to produce it.

Weir wanted an Aston Martin Rapide for his Aston collection, specifically an Aston Martin Rapide Shooting Brake – or estate car, in less rarefied parlance.

As Aston Martin itself doesn’t build one, Weir turned to Bertone to create his dream car.

Usefully, Bertone has form here, having created the Jet 2 back in 2004.

Then, Bertone’s vision of an Aston Martin Shooting Brake was based on the Vanquish two-door coupe, though with Aston Martin now having a fourdoor model in its line up, the Rapide makes a more obvious starting point.

It’s a beautiful one, too. The Rapide is an elegant car in standard guise, but as the Jet 2+2 – as this model has been named – looks even more striking in shooting brake guise. The chief designer

– fittingly, a Brit, Adrian Griffiths – undertook the work, stripping the Rapide back to its elements to create this one-off machine. The result is stunning: the raised rear haunches, lengthened roofline and unique rear end are so beautifully achieved it looks like Aston Martin has created it.

The benefit inside is tangible, too – that +2 a bit of a misnomer – as the Rapide Jet 2+2 is actually a far more able four-seater, thanks to its greater rear headroom. Add the gains in luggage space and Bertone has created a car that might be the embodiment of Mr Weir’s dream, but could well appeal to other Aston customers wanting a more usable Rapide in their garage.

Aston Martin and Bertone aren’t admitting as much, but the rumour is if you’d like one, they might make you one – but at a rumoured build cost of around £1.5m. At that price, though, it’s less about the additional space it brings and more about the exclusivity.

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23/07/2013 14:13

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26/07/2013 11:59

- h ot els -

Words – Sian Staton

Your imperial majesty Let a little Roman decadence rub off on you in Puglia’s spa heaven Honestly, I’m not the type to get hot under the collar about the world of celebrities. Granted, I may have glanced at a copy of Hello! from time to time – for the recipes, you understand – but the appeal of following showbiz types’ every move has always struck me as an odd way to spend your leisure time.

That said, on hearing that I was booked in for a few days’ pampering at Borgo Egnazia, a spa resort in Puglia, Italy, I became quite ridiculously excited. On the face of it, this was because this magnificent hotel had become known as one of the country’s leading spa destinations. However, there was another, slightly more embarrassing, reason for my enthusiasm – it was in this glorious space that

Justin Timberlake and Jessica Biel tied the knot last year, in a ceremony rumoured to cost around £5m.

It is, indeed, a location fit for a king (or king of pop). At first sight of the white Roman stone façade, you could easily believe you were entering an ancient fort in Morocco. Once inside, you’re enveloped in a warm glow of cream marble with the aroma of vanilla candles inviting you deeper into this palace of pleasure.

From the central hall, with its breathtaking sculpture of hanging bird cages and oversized glass lanterns suspended from the ceiling, to the beautiful outdoor swimming pool and the walls draped in bougainvillea and framed by cacti, it

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feels like I’ve walked on to a pristine film set, made ready for some lavish Hollywood epic.

It’s the spa facilities, though, that really make for a memorable stay. The hotel’s Vair spa is designed to heal both mind and body, and does so in fine style. Using Puglian traditions in dance, music and colour therapies as well as the treatments, the 15 therapists (or ‘magicians’, as they like to be called) lead guests through a fascinating and luxurious journey.

Starting in the Roman bath, I moved on a cloud of bliss through different rooms and glowing pools – one warm, the other icy cold to invigorate my circulation and strengthen the immune system – until arriving at some leather

beds where I was swaddled in towels and given a foot massage. Interestingly, no water was used for the latter – just lemon juice to cleanse, olive oil to moisturise and salt to scrub.

Also unusual was a treatment that saw me covered head to toe, scrubbed with salt, wafted with aromatherapy oils and then – and this is the odd bit – smothered in the squeezed juice of dozens of half-oranges. I did feel a little like a basted joint ready for the oven but it was an incredibly energising experience.

Puglian dance therapy and a flotation tank (not at the same time, obviously) completed my spa experience, before I was handed over to the hotel’s expert nutritionist. She took me for a stroll through the grounds, pointing out the extensive garden with its lush herbs and some of the most fragrant, ripe cherry tomatoes I’ve ever tasted.

Dinner was a suitably healthy affair, with all dishes packed with vegetables and feeling clean and light, rather than rich and creamy.

A deboned salt-crusted sea bream was a standout, although I’m not sure how the gelati ice cream – a creamy pistachio and hazelnut swirl – fitted into the healthy aesthetic. Organic milk, perhaps?

In truth, the ice cream served as a gateway to an evening of mild hedonism, with several ice-cold proseccos accompanying the fading glow of a magical sunset. Thankfully, Borgo Egnazia’s magicians were on hand the next day to clear away any cobwebs. Find your own inner harmony here, in one of Europe’s finest spa hotels.

Rooms from £415 a night, book online at borgoegnazia.com; vairspa.com

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23/07/2013 13:57

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30/07/2013 16:15

- T EC H N O LO GY -

Words – Alex Pell

small room,

big sound Cool, compact kit to transform every room of your home into a sonic temple

D-Premier

Should you wish to bring classy audio to a spare room or a kitchen, perhaps, you will be on the hunt for a system as compact as it is sonically refined. These days, many people opt for a wireless speaker or one that’s part of a broader multi-room system – and each of the models shown here fulfil both remits, albeit in diverse ways. This sumptuous Devialet package contains innovative amplification technology that enables it to deliver power and refinement in a chassis so slim that it can even be wall-mounted. All you need to do is add some speakers. This combo of refinement, power and industrial design is an immense technological feat. The D-Premier can be compared with rivals that cost far more, yet it looks just as svelte as stylish systems that are vastly inferior in sonic terms. You pay a premium for this heady combination, but for those seeking the ideal kit for a specific spot in their home, this could well be the answer.

£12,000 devialet.com

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Meridian Audio Core 200 & DSP 3200

Owners of awkwardly shaped rooms, rejoice, because this swish Meridian system can bring the sweetest of stereo sounds to the oddest of spaces. It does so by employing digital trickery to take account of wherever the two speakers are placed within the room. This package offers no disc-based playback options, but that isn’t a big loss these days. Regular Tempus readers will know that Meridian makes some of the finest audio kit on the planet and this midpriced system is no exception. It’s beautifully finished, too, and an excellent option for anyone struggling to unleash musical magic into, say, a converted oast house or windmill.

£5,250 meridian-audio.com

NaimUniti 2

Not entirely sure how you intend to listen to music? This is a truly one-box solution that makes few compromises on sound quality. The NaimUniti 2 can stream audio from just about any source yet also contains a CD player (remember them?), Apple dock-connector and a radio. Don’t be put off by the prosaic styling: Naim is one of the most respected brands in audio and has pioneered the concept of all-in-one systems that play audio from external devices. Again, you need to add speakers and Naim models are too big for a spare room. Get this decision right – the Neat IOTA is a good choice – and you’ll love the versatility and quality on offer here.

Linn Kiko

Those seeking to squeeze the hottest performance from the tiniest and most stylish of boxes should take a peek at the Linn Kiko. This wee beast is actually comprised of a tiny control unit plus a pair of matching speakers that can adorn even a nook or cranny in a pantry. The Kiko offers slightly fewer playback options than its Naim rival, but it does enable you to connect up to three HDMI devices to give your TV a significant sonic boost. For smaller rooms, this is probably the ideal compromise between style and audio substance.

£2,795 naimaudio.com

£2,495 linn.co.uk

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23/07/2013 14:00

Advertising feature

To melt like snow in the sun A healthy lifestyle is the prerequisite for a slim figure.

Unfortunately, this is not always sufficient to remove fat in difficult areas.

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26/07/2013 11:57

How does Clinic Lémanic’s approach ensure a slim and attractive figure?

“Modifying one’s figure requires medical support in order to determine the patient’s goal.

Diagnosis and the origin of the problems in various zones to be treated are performed by the specialist during his clinical exam.

The choice of treatments is based on these diagnoses,” says Dr Cyrille Blum, Medical Aesthetics specialist at Clinic Lémanic.

Using a rigorous, structured, medical and personalised aesthetic approach, Clinic Lémanic has developed successful, non-invasive methods. Always researching for safe and innovative techniques, the Clinic Lémanic has broadened its medical platform this year with a new slimming treatment by laser.

“Clinic Lémanic has broadened its medical platform with a new slimming treatment by laser.”

A new slimming technique at Clinic Lémanic. What happens during a session?

This completely painless and safe laser treatment is suitable for most areas of the body. This procedure provides immediate loss of centimetres which increases over

the next few weeks. The number of sessions depends upon the desired results. This new technique can also be associated with cryolipolysis.

For whom is this treatment intended?

This treatment is intended for people who would like to eradicate certain fat deposits. Buttocks, thighs and waist are especially well suited to this laser.

What is this new slimming laser treatment?

“This technique stimulates local fat metabolism, which is directly drained and removed. On the following day, one simply increases water consumption in order to ensure optimal body drainage,” explains Dr Blum. For even faster results, treatment can be directly combined with a Huber Motion Lab session. “After reduction of the fatty zone by the laser, the body, thanks to the Huber Motion Lab, enters into a maximum fat-burning zone, and transforms it directly into energy used by the muscles. Thus, elimination is also ensured, and one’s figure is refined and toned,” says Dr Blum.

Clinic Lémanic is celebrating its 15th anniversary …

“With Darrell Jacobs, Managing Director, we created a unique concept, both discreetly elegant and intimate. A clinic which has risen to international fame, uniting under one roof on more than 2,000 square metres a department of dermatology, aesthetic and reconstructive surgery, a laser centre and clinical research centre as well as a medical aesthetics

department dedicated to beauty, prevention of ageing and slimming.

Our absolute priority remains to achieve excellence in our medical and aesthetic treatments, which have made our reputation in Switzerland and abroad,” summarises the Medical Director and co-founder of Clinic Lémanic, Véronique Emmenegger.

In an era where beauty is no longer a luxury reserved for those with time on their hands, Clinic Lémanic specialises in efficient, fast and durable aesthetic procedures without visible consequences, performed in the utmost discretion.

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26/07/2013 11:58

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30/07/2013 16:36 14:56 29/07/2013

- t r av el -

Words – Jay Boisvert

c o c k ta i l s w i t h a lt i t u d e First-class drinks, expertly mixed with a slice of NYC nightlife

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I

t’s 10am on a Monday and I find myself on the dreaded commute into London. For once though, there was a spring in my step as this promised to be a Monday quite like any other.

The reason? I was whizzing past my usual tube station and heading to Heathrow Terminal 5 to head off to New York City as a guest of Diageo, the world’s biggest drinks brand. Given the number of sublime spirits that sit under their corporate umbrella, I knew I was in for a treat.

First stop was BA’s swish first-class lounge at Heathrow. We were here to watch the UK finals of the Diageo Reserve world-class bartender of the year competition. This round would see 10 of the UK’s best mixmasters whittled down to four, who would then join us on the flight to New York and compete in their next challenge – creating a new in-flight cocktail for BA passengers, all while flying at 36,000ft. Sound easy? Throw in a little turbulence, a camera crew and a galley smaller than my wardrobe into the equation and the guys certainly had their work cut out.

For me, however, the flight in business class was a little more relaxing and after two films, five glasses of champagne, some great food and a little siesta, we finally arrived in NYC and headed straight to the fantastic W hotel. We barely had time enough to drop off our bags off before heading to the nearest bar to continue the cocktail odyssey. It didn’t take Nostradamus to predict how this trip might turn out – some

THE GOOD MIXER: turbulence, camera crews and a tiny galley fail to put off Britain’s finest mixologists.Above: W hotel, New York

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THIRST CLASS: A new BA inflight cocktail, created and then served at 36,000ft

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“We were ushered into the club’s private dining area for a stunning meal before heading to one of the best cocktail bars in New York” amazing experiences, and a very sore head. I’m not a huge drinker, and given the way some of my fellow travellers were knocking them back at ‘mahogany ridge’ – the battlezone-themed name I’d started applying to every bartop we arrived at – I could see that this was a trip that called for true grit. And hollow legs.

By mid-afternoon, I was already lagging a little. This was no time for weakness though, as a gourmet dinner in the sophisticated environs of Soho House beckoned. We were ushered into the members’ club’s private dining area for a stunning meal before heading off to one of the best cocktail bars in New York, if not the world.

Dubbed PDT (Please Don’t Tell), the entrance to this exclusive bar was an amusing mix of the glam and the desperate. So hot is this place, that the doorway was packed with people begging the bouncer to let them in.

“Hey, hey, Marvin, you know me, you know me,” shouted one poor soul, while jostling to the front. You can always debate with a bouncer.

You can always debate with a gorilla, too, for all

the good it will do you. I didn’t have the heart to tell ‘friend of Marvin’ that the Hawaiian shirt he was sporting, even post-ironically, meant he would never see the inner sanctum of this place.

Indeed, even though our names were down on the list, trying to gain entry to the place was like trying to blag your way into Buckingham

BAR MAN: Jay secures a coveted spot at PDT (Please Don’t Tell); other queue members were not so lucky

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26/07/2013 10:37

LIFE IS LESS TAXING OFFSHORE. The extraordinary islands of the Bahamas offer all the amenities, making every option available, then stands ready to help you enjoy it. Beaches, marinas, golf courses, tennis courts, fitness centres, spas, security and privacy in a tax neutral environment.

The combination of all this with the opportunity to live in one of the world’s most naturally beautiful settings is unparalleled. Living by your rules, the way you want.

This is life in The Bahamas.

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30/07/2013 15:41

- t r av el -

“I’d suggest you don’t order a mojito, as I did. This is like going to a three-Michelin star restaurant and asking for egg and chips”

Palace dressed as a caricature of Prince Charles.

It’s well worth a visit, although I’d suggest you don’t order a mojito, as I did. For info, this is like going to a three-star Michelin restaurant and asking for egg and chips. I imagine, had I ordered a strawberry daiquiri, Marvin would have been opening the door with my head. As it was, the snorting derision of the bar staff provided the soundtrack to my embarassment I ended up back in my room around 6am, sweating whiskey and wishing I had more than six hours before I had to check out.

Before you could say ‘screaming hangover’, we were back at JFK to catch what I thought was going to be a regular flight. Happily, there was one more surprise in store from our friends at Diageo and BA – a private jet home to London City airport. During this flight the four bartending finalists competed in their final challenge – creating the ultimate nightcap.

We sipped and sampled, hummed and hawed but, frankly, at 6.30am, four hours into a transatlantic flight after three days of drinking, and with a full day in the office to look forward to, drinking cocktails required my last reserves of true grit. Based on Johnnie Walker Blue Label Reserve, they were, of course, utterly delicious, and it’s testament to the mixologists’ skills that all of us seemed to get a post-sampling second wind.

Prior to landing, the captain announced that bartender Gareth Evans of London’s Social Eating House – where top chef Jason Atherton currently resides – had topped the lot, beating over 1,000 entrants to win his place as the UK’s representative at the global final.

Despite the throbbing at my temples at touchdown, I know that is a party I would definitely like to attend. Diageo, you know where to find me.

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Sky diva

In 1967, fresh from the success of her best-known film, One Million Years B.C., Raquel Welch had the world at her feet when she starred in spy comedy Fathom. Although, not entirely unfathomably, it wasn’t destined to be a classic – Welch starred as a dental assistant moonlighting as a skydiver – it cemented her reputation as one of the most beautiful actresses in the world. The styling wasn’t all bad either, as Welch got to sport the classic Breitling Co-Pilot chronograph. While it’s the obvious choice for a skydiving dental assistant, it’s still just as popular today with the less adventurous amongst us.

breitling.com

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CHRONOFIGHTER OVERSIZE REF. 2CCAU.B02A Automatic chronograph Carbon trigger Scratch-proof ceramic bezel Telemeter based on 25째C Water resistant 100m WWW.GRAHAM1695.COM

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