Tempus issue 19

19

FRANC VILA / Ultimate collectibles / Track cars / AVANT-GARDE JEWELLERY / French ski special / Retro audio / HENRY CAVILL / BMW i8 / De Grisogono / SUPERYACHTS

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- fo r ewo r d -

ISSUE

NINETEEN Editor

Scott Manson

scott.manson@astongreenlake.com 020 3617 4693 Art Director

Jonny Hughes

tempusartwork@astongreenlake.com 020 3006 2122 Writer

Alex Doak

alex.doak@astongreenlake.com Web development Manager

Mitchell Finlay

mitchell.finlay@astongreenlake.com Business Development Director

Mark Edwards

mark.edwards@astongreenlake.com 020 3617 4688 Senior Account Manager

Tom Pettit

t.pettit@astongreenlake.com Account Manager

Ashley Collin

ashley.collin@astongreenlake.com

Contributors

From the editor At the highest level of horology, precision and accuracy almost cease to matter. Watches that sit in this rarefied group are already expected to achieve supreme standards of precision so what sets them apart is something much more subjective – their inherent beauty.

It’s a concept touched upon by watch expert Alex Doak, in his feature on page 43, where he reveals the rigorous certification required by the world’s premier timepiece manufacturers.

Renowned watch designer Franc Vila also contributes to the debate. His interview on page 64 outlines his passion for perfection, and the Franc Vila brand’s constant quest to produce ‘a few rare things’.

Elsewhere in the magazine, we continue our luxury ski coverage with a snapshot of the hippest places to stay in France, plus an in-depth look at one of Gstaad’s most glamorous new hotels.

We also investigate the market for collectables – many offering a high return on investment for those with armed with some knowledge and a keen eye – and get a first look at BMW’s revolutionary new hybrid sports car, the i8.

All this, plus the best in high-end retro-themed audio kit and an interview with Superman himself, Henry Cavill. No wonder it’s our biggest edition to date.

Enjoy the issue.

Alex Doak

Alex is a leading name in the UK’s new guard of watch writers, but he also harbours petrolhead tendencies as editor of HR Owen’s customer magazine, ‘Drive’. On page 90 he rounds up the most hair-raising, white-knuckle track-day cars on the market.

Laura McCreddie

Editor of the jewellery trade’s finest title, Retail Jeweller, and freelance watch writer for the Telegraph and Times, Laura makes the case for thinking outside the duck-egg-blue Tiffany box on page 45.

Managing Director

Jay Boisvert

Simon de Burton TEMPUS IS PUBLISHED MONTHLY

BY ASTON GREENLAKE PUBLISHING LTD, 8TH FLOOR, 6 MITRE PASSAGE, LONDON SE10 0ER. TEL: 020 3617 4688 PRINTED BY

With an auctioneer father and an antiques dealer mother, Simon had little chance of avoiding the collecting bug – a fascination that turned to addiction in the Nineties when he worked at Sotheby’s. On page 70, the FT and Telegraph writer picks his ultimate collectables.

Scott Manson Editor - 15 -

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CONTEMPORARY SWISS WATCHMAKING

R E V E A L

Y O U R S E L F

OCULUS V.01 CHRONO Red Gold

108 New Bond Street - LONDON Tel: 020 3372 0108 www.frostoflondon.co.uk

Transformable timepiece in limited edition

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- c o n t en ts -

Inside ISSUE NINETEEN - 81Retro Audio We don

- 20 Take Me There Go

our rosetinted specs and revel in the new wave of high-end hi-fi equipment that’s taking its design cues from a bygone era

see Patrick Lichfield’s ‘Caribbean’ exhibition and become inspired to visit the small private island of Mustique - 25 Luxury Briefing Because,

- 90 One-Track Mind Fulfill your

it turns out, the best things in life aren’t free, after all

unfulfilled teenage dreams of being a racing driver with these strippedback, high-octane track cars

- 39 Food and Drink From

Earl’s Court to Mayfair, two more hot restaurants you need to try

- 101 All Hail the Avant-Garde Women

have never been so confident to look beyond the mainstream, when it comes to ‘haute joaillerie’

- 43 The Word Alex

Doak makes the case for precision in mechanical watches, while Laura McCreddie argues that, nowadays, men have no excuse for plumping for that fourclaw solitaire

- 113 Labour of Love De Grisogono’s

Fawaz Gruosi is the jewellery world’s favourite boundary-pushing designer - 119 Ski La France! The

- 47 The Watch Snob AskMen’s

second of our luxury-chalet round-ups hops the border to the French Alps

columnist pulls no punches when solving your horological conundrums

- 130 Best in Show This year’s

- 48 Auction Watch Our

Monaco Yacht Show saw some incredible new vessels taking to the water

pick of the best pieces going under the hammer this month -50 Trendwatching The

Frost of London director, Joseph Banin reveals what’s hot right now

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reveal the hidden gem that is London’s Myhotel Bloomsbury

latest in ghoulish jewellery from Frost of London, just in time for Halloween

- 140 A-List Exercise Checking

- 46 Object of Desire A

out the Bodyism exercise programme at London’s Bulgari hotel

handsome beast of a watch, from avant-garde Swiss brand, Cvstos

- 142 Super Amps Forget

- 57 Man of Steel Henry

- 64 True Original Swiss

Cover: Franc Vila No 8 DLC Tourbillon

share prices still in the doldrums, more and more are turning to the auction houses to invest

surround sound – these stereo amps will fill the room with sumptuous sound perfectly well - 147Alpine Excess Is

watchmaking is a much more exciting place to be, thanks to the trailblazing efforts of Franc Vila

- 70 Ultimate Collectables With

planet just got a little bit healthier, thanks to BMW’s sensational new i8 - 135 Blooming Marvellous We

- 52 Spooky Swagger The

Cavill reveals to Tempus his ballistic rise to fame, and what's on his wrist right now

- 132 Racing Green The

the Swiss town of Gstaad the world’s most sophisticated ski resort?

Special thanks: Charlotte Johnson @ThePressOffice Johnny Sharp

- 154 Moments in Time Think

Breitling or Omega were the first Swiss watches in space? Think again…

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Calibre JJ03 modification (Patent pending) of ETA 2893 self-winding movement / Personally assembled by Master Watchmaker, Johannes Jahnke and team at CW’s Swiss atelier / 2 x 24 hour time-zone display / 24 airport code identification and simultaneous world map indicator / 43mm, marine-grade, 316L polished steel case with sapphire crystal and transparent case-back / Ethically sourced, midnight blue, Louisiana alligator strap with Bader deployment

Showroom at NO.1 PARK STREET, Maidenhead. To arrange a personal appointment, call +44 (0)1628 763040

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Mustique, St Vincent and the Grenadines

- CA R I B B EA N

The small Caribbean private island of Mustique has been the discreet destination of choice for celebrities and other high profile types for decades. Mick Jagger owns a villa there and various royals have visited it over the years, thanks in part to its remote nature keeping it free from the long lens of the paparazzi. It’s fitting, then, that former Royal photographer Patrick Lichfield, who also has a home on the island, has made it the subject of his latest photography exhibition. Representing all genres of Lichfield’s photography: landscape, portraiture, fashion and nudes, many of which are previously unpublished, it’s the perfect snapshot of the rich at play.

Patrick Lichfield’s Caribbean is at The Little Black Gallery, 13A Park Walk, London SW10 0AJ from 29 October - 7 December. thelittleblackgallery.com - 21 -

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A very contemporary return to old traditional high-end standards FV EVOS 18 “Cobra” Suspended Skeleton FRANC VILA exclusive calibre FV18 Limited edition 88 pieces

“Not only mine, but a part of me” ABU DHABI: Style Gallery, +9712 68 111 88 • AUSTRALIA: Luxury Goods, +61 2 9007 5330 • CARIBBEAN & CENTRAL/SOUTH AMERICA: BAY Distributors, 001 246 437 7509 CHINA & HONG KONG: L’Vantage Ltd, Tel : +852 2869 7278 • DUBAI: Bin Hendi, Tel : +9714 43 41 448 • FRANCE: Guilhem Joaillers, +33 4 50 21 66 80. Khallita Joailler, +33 493 68 03 91 GERMANY: Hülse-reutter GmbH, +49 405 388-8213 • ITALY: I. Boncompagni & C., +39 041 522 45 63. Tarascio, +39 06 420 20 73 37. Verga SrL, +39 02 720 93 3799 JAPAN, MALAYSIA, SINGAPORE & THAILAND: Luxury Concepts, +603 2142 6328, +603 2141 2881 • KUWAIT: Kallista Holding, +965 2232 0313 NIGERIA: Extra Time, 0805 557 1166. Vintage Watches, 09 461 4592 • PORTUGAL: Espaço Joias, +351 226 168 861 QATAR: Amiri Gems, +974 4442 5972/975 • RUSSIA: SWM Distribution, +7 (495) 203-08-05 • SAUDI ARABIA: Al Kooheji & Partners, +966 389 342 222 SPAIN: Rabat, +34 93 384 4111, +34 96 352 7678. Santi Pàmies Joiers, +34 977 330 697 • SWITZERLAND: Ouranos Espace Temps & Joaillerie, +41 21 311 1188. Sheffield SA, +41 22 311 32 04 SYRIA: Mario Retail, +963113312221 • TURKEY: Greenwich Istanbul, +90 212 241 7510 • U.K.: Frost of London, +44 20 3372 0108 UKRAINE: Noblesse, 380 44 528 33 85 • USA & CANADA: WLG - W Luxury Group, +1 305 674 967 • EUROPE: FRANC VILA S.A., +41 22 317 07 27 • WWW.FRANCVILA.COM / INFO@FRANCVILA.COM

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Because the best things in life aren't free

Beautiful Bungalows

- D ELA N O S O U T H B EAC H

Located in the heart of Florida’s Art Deco South Beach zone and directly on the ocean, Delano is the ultimate world-class urban resort hotel and self-contained destination, adorned decadently by Philippe Starck with works by Man Ray, Charles and Ray Eames, Salvador Dali and Mark Newson. And the decadence steps up a notch this year, with the introduction of the Bungalow Bliss Package. For $50,000 per night, with a minimum two-night stay, guests are treated to a lavish poolside bungalow with a suite of experiences fit for royalty; from an in-room sushi-making masterclass with a sushi master chef to a cocktail-making class with the Delano’s Master Mixologist, Bernie. Plus, of course, the essential private poolside cabana – perfect for entertaining your visiting rock star friends.

delano-hotel.com

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High Octane Hi-Fi

- B OW ERS & W I LK I N S

The special relationship between a British audio institution and an Italian automotive legend deepens even further come January, with a special edition high-performance loudspeaker. Created

by Bowers & Wilkins, who make the Maserati Ghibli and Quattroporte’s in-car surround-sound system, it’s a variant on their ‘805’ stand-mounted model from the flagship 800 Series Diamond speaker range – the speakers used in Abbey Road’s mastering suites, no less. Bedecked in black Maserati leather, birdseye maple real wood veneer and featuring Maserati’s Trident on the integrated stand, it’s almost as good as listening to the roar of a V8.

bowers-wilkins.co.uk

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Table the issue

- DAV I D S O N

Former antiques dealer Richard Davidson’s quintessentially British, bespoke furniture company celebrates 25 years in 2013, and goes from strength to strength. It was 1988 when Davidson and his wife Deirdre started designing and manufacturing bespoke Regency-style pieces for clients, often to complement in situ antiques, and their Chelsea Design Centre showroom now bursts with beauties such as this Barthelemy console table – made of tinted sycamore with silver leaf with black line inlay.

davidsonlondon.com

Dark and Handsome

- S P EA K E-M A R I N

The much-admired Spirit Pioneer, from legendary British watchmaker Peter Speake-Marin, has received an update that pushes it to new levels of refinement. Clad in a slick DLC matt black coating with white Super-LumiNova hour markers, and powered by the impressive TT738 Caliber, this military-inspired masterpiece – dubbed the Spirit Mark 2 DLC – is a brilliant addition to this brand’s stellar range.

speake-marin.com

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The Secret’s Out

- C H EA PS I D E H OA R D

It’s one of jewellery’s most alluringly mythical stories, and this October you’ll be able to immerse yourself thoroughly, thanks to the Museum of London’s major new exhibition investigating the secrets of the Cheapside Hoard. This extraordinary and priceless cache of nearly 500 late-16th and early-17th century jewels and gemstones – displayed in its entirety for the first time in over a century – was discovered in 1912, buried in a cellar on Cheapside in the City of London. It is the single most important source for our knowledge of early modern jewellery worldwide, and despite being designed at the crossroads of the old and new worlds, looks thoroughly modern itself.

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Not Too Hot to Handle

- ELV I S & K R ESS EE

New British brand Elvis & Kressee are literally bringing rubbish back to life, and in a luxurious manner to boot.

Emulating ‘kintsugi’, the Japanese art of repairing broken pottery with gold, the artistic duo are reclaiming and repurposing beautiful materials to make anything from a billfold wallet to this, their signature piece: an overnight bag made from old London Fire Brigade fire hose. Once scrubbed of 25 years’ worth of soot and grime, firehose makes for a particularly vivid, lush and hardwearing alternative to leather. What’s more, not only do these pieces reduce landfill, but Elvis & Kressee are also donating up to 50% of their profits to the Fire Fighters Charity.

elvisandkresse.com

Attendance Mandatory - SA LO N Q P

Diaries out, watch fans. The UK’s premier fine watch exhibition returns to the Saatchi Gallery from 7th to 9th November 2013. Now in its fifth year, and organised by its eponymous watch magazine, SalonQP brings together the industry’s leading brands – plus several new and independent names – with high-profile speakers and workshops to create a truly essential date on London’s luxury calendar. Confirmed exhibitors for this year include A. Lange & Söhne, MB&F and TAG Heuer, who are launching their MikroPendulumS in the UK. Tickets are priced from £20 and available through the website.

salonqp.com

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ROBERTOCOIN.COM

POIS MOI COLLECTION

108 New Bond Street, London, W1S 1EF - UK Tel: 020 3372 0108

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greenwich

TB88

EDITION HAND-CRAFTED IN SWITZERLAND Arnold & Son Manual movement AS5003 Two barrels, 100-hour power reserve True Beat Seconds, Breguet Spring See-through caseback. 100 feet (30 meters) water resistant Available in rose gold or stainless steel

108 New Bond Street, London, W1S 1EF - UK Tel: 020 3372 0108

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108 New Bond Street

London, W1S 1EF www.frostoflondon.co.uk www.frostoflondon.co.uk

Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh District 10000 - HANOI VIETNAM Tel: (+84)4 23 234567

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High Concept Hybrid

- LEX U S

September’s IAA Frankfurt Motor Show is an annual bellwether of all things automotive – but also a showcase for the year’s edgiest concepts. Lexus did not disappoint this year, unveiling a concept that does what every good concept should: divide opinion. While the LF-NX reinforces the Japanese giant’s lead in the premium market hybrid race, with a beefed-up version of its full hybrid powertrain, the powerfully sculpted SUV styling evoked something of a Marmite reaction in Germany. What do you think? All we know is that Mayfair’s car scene is about to get even more steroidal and mean-looking.

lexus.co.uk - 33 -

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108 New Bond Street, London, W1S 1EF Tel: 020 3372 0108 - www.frostoflondon.co.uk

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MagniďŹ cent Flying Machine

- LO N G I N ES

Goggles on and chocks away! This handsome pilot watch is based on a Longines flying instrument from the 1920s that could have been designed for Biggles himself. Not only that, but the Longines Avigation Oversize Crown still proves itself adept in the cockpit, despite the rheumy-eyed nostalgia. The bezel is marked with a single index and can be turned in both directions, enabling the pilot to set his reference points. Thanks to the fluted decoration around the bezel, it can be manipulated with great precision, and the oversize knurled crown stands away from the case, making it easily manipulated wearing gloves.

longines.com

Display Team

- M A N U FACT U R E C O N T EM PO R A I N ES D U T EM PS Existing somewhere between Urwerk, Hautlence and Devon, the unabashedly 21st-century mechanics and aesthetics of MCT are utterly captivating.

Designed by Fabrice Gonet, the new S-110 completely removes the dial to reveal the depth of the movement and to highlight the perspectives offered by the hour-index prism blocks, the crossshaped bridge or the minute hands.

mctwatches.com

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A Paradise That Pays

- ED EN I S LA N D, S EYC H ELLES

A beautiful waterfront property, in one of the world’s most idyllic destinations, at your complete disposal, which makes you money as well? It sounds too good to be true, but it’s a proven reality on Eden Island, right in the heart of the Seychelles archipelago. A residential marina development located just a few hundred metres from the Seychelles’ capital Mahé, Eden hosts impressive freehold title homes that can be accessed via more than 16 hectares of private waterways.

Exclusive properties for sale include one-to-three-bedroom apartments, duplex maisons, and luxury villas, all offering great rental potential. Your own piece of paradise awaits.

edenisland.sc

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108 New Bond Street, London, W1S 1EF - UK Tel: 020 3372 0108

Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh District 10000 - HANOI VIETNAM Tel: (+84)4 23 234567

108 New Bond Street, London, W1S 1EF Tel: 020 3372 0108 - www.frostoflondon.co.uk

03/09/2013 09:23

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The UK’s premier fine watch exhibition returns for its fifth edition to the

SAATCHI GALLERY London

7–9 NOVEMBER 2013 To receive an exclusive offer of 10% off your tickets, please visit www.salonqp.com and enter the code “TEMPUSQP13” or call 020 7428 2916.

Confirmed brands A. Lange & Söhne AkriviA Andreas Strehler Armin Strom Badollet Ballouard Bell & Ross Bremont Watch Company Breva Genève Christophe Claret De Bethune Fondation de la Haute Horologerie Frédérique Constant H. Moser & Cie Hermès Hoptroff HYT Watches Jordi Konstantin Chaykin Laurent Ferrier Matthias Naeschke MB&F

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MCT Watches MeisterSinger Meridian Watches Mühle Glashütte Nomos Glashütte Peter Roberts Ressence Robert Loomes Stamford Romain Gauthier Sarpaneva Schofield Speake-Marin TAG Heuer Thomas Mercer U-Boat Urwerk Timekeeper Technik Voutilainen Watches of Knightsbridge Zenith Zeitwinkel

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TRENDS AND NEWS FROM THE BEST BARS AND KITCHENS CORRIGANS MAYFAIR

Reviewed by Scott Manson

Before I’d even eaten his food, Richard Corrigan was already one of my favourite chefs. A three-time winner of Great British Menu and a regular on Saturday Kitchen – essential lazy weekend viewing in our house – he always struck me as a chef who didn’t only cook solid, pretension-free food, but whose general air of bonhomie would make him a great late-night drinking partner.

Sadly, there was no sign of the big man during my visit so I was unable to test the latter theory, but fittingly, what he has crafted is an immediately welcoming restaurant – a gently lit, clubby place where proper food is served by staff who seem genuinely pleased to see you. It feels like you’ve touched down in the dining room of a luxurious 1930s cruise liner.

We started lightly, knowing the meat feast that lay ahead, with some smoked salmon, served with sauerkraut and horseradish – smoked on the restaurant’s roof, no less – and a beautifully

fresh shellfish cocktail. As it turned out, one of these could feed two people – so much for our good intentions.

As any foodie knows, Corrigan’s speciality is game, and both grouse and game pie featuring as seasonal dishes. However, I opted for a navarin of lamb pie – a generously-portioned beast packed with juicy chunks of stunningly good lamb and entirely encased in pastry, as every proper pie should be. A slow cooked short rib served with marrow toast was similarly special, the meat falling off the bone and shot through with umami-rich flavours.

This isn’t the place for an express lunch, and it’s all the better for that. Tucked away down a Mayfair side street, it offers great food imaginatively cooked, in a room that virtually begs you to cancel your afternoon meetings, Corrigans Mayfair is another feather in the cap for one of the capital’s best chefs. corrigansmayfair.co.uk

HAS RAMSAY STILL GOT IT?

Union Street Café, Gordon Ramsay’s latest venture – based close to London’s Borough Market – hit the headlines recently with news that it had taken 10,000 bookings before it had even opened. The question, though, is whether Britain’s best-known chef is spreading himself too thin with this mid-market Italian café operation. Look out for a full report soon. gordonramsay.com - 39 -

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A CELLAR OF NOTE

While most retailers are caving in to the pressures of online, it’s refreshing to see the Perfect Cellar move into retail. Set in London’s Farringdon, Perfect Cellar is signing up exclusive deals with boutique wine producers from the world’s top regions. At the launch tasting, Eric Boissenot (consultant to 90% of the top Bordeaux chateaux) was showing his own label, Les Vimieres, alongside other wine legends Jose Sanfins and Pascal Amoreau. Here are three of the stand-out wines from the tasting.

GARNIER Despite one’s age, there are always things in life that suddenly inspire the inner child. Tax returns, mortgages, the leader of today’s Times. Things against which we must square ourselves under the pretence of being an ‘adult’. What makes it even harder is living in east London – an area that infantilises everything; the east London that revels in its cutesy, itsy-bitsy, aren’t-we-clever ironicalism (and we know that isn’t a word, but that’s the irony, yeah?)

The region, for all its Keep Calm and Stuff Your Face postmodernism, is actually harbouring London’s frontier food movement, into which proper chefs are fast moving. In between the street vans and pop-up gourmet dumpsters you can now find genuine talent at work in establishments such as Hackney’s Clove Club and La Bouchon Fourchette. But despite this encroachment of responsible local adults, nothing could prepare this ersatz hipster for such a refreshingly sensible – ie, shockingly grown-up – meal at West London’s Garnier. Which, evidently, has positioned itself as far from Hackney as it gets.

Opened just last year next door to Earl’s Court tube, Garnier gets instant Brownie points for pre-empting the West End’s current French bistro trend – Balthazar, Boulestin et al – without trying too hard.

Reviewed by Alex Doak It is so sublimely, unpretentiously good that even the curmudgeonly critic AA Gill sang the praises of this temple of Gallic gastronomy.

Without intrusive piped music, and with enough space around our red-velvet banquettes to feel immediately relaxed, we perused the menu, safe in the knowledge that whatever we ordered would be good, and that we wouldn’t be missing out on that week’s flash-in-the-pan foodie trend, like the arriviste try-hards we always are.

The steak tartare was spicy, salty, still practically kicking, with a mealy, almost grainy texture. Exactly as it should be, in fact. As for mains, the glorious 12th had just come to pass, so I gleefully pounced upon the roasted grouse with bread sauce, and sucked every bone dry, much to the vocal approval of the waiter as he replaced my finger bowl. The polite grown-ups on the next table didn’t bat an eyelid.

The dessert? Crèpes suzette – mais oui, for I could hardly have chosen anything else. As it turned out it, my pile of delicately fluffy pancakes was liberally spiked with slugs of Courvoisier, making for a beautifully boozy finale to an evening of fine French dining. A proper restaurant doing proper food, and one well worth crossing the capital to enjoy. garnier-restaurant-london.co.uk

by Peter Dean BOUTIQUE BOUQUETS

Mas Amiel Vintage, 1969

Maury’s reputation is for making sweet wines from the grenache grape, and Mas Amiel’s flagship aged fortified wine will do that region no end of good. I love all of Amiel’s range but this is otherworldly nectar – traditionally served with chocolate, but equally delicious on its own.

£139 a bottle

Nicolas Joly, Clos de la Coulee de Serrant, 2008

One of the first biodynamic producers in the world, Joly’s expression of chenin blanc is a complex, dry wine that will get more golden and richer with each passing year. One of the reasons Coulee de Serrant is so famed is that it apparently can last a week after opening. Once opened it would be very hard to get to Friday!

£94.99 a bottle

Chateau Chantelune, Margaux, 2005

Jose Sanfins, the general manager of Cantenac Brown, is behind this microlabel which, in the three vintages tasted – 05, 08, 09 – showed how superbly made they are. Try and get the 05 which, despite a firm grip, was fruit-driven and surprisingly rounded.

£39.99 a bottle All available from theperfectcellar.com

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The precision decision Alex Doak

Alex Doak is a luxury lifestyle journalist and edits theprodigalguide.com

This issue’s cover star Franc Vila makes a rather controversial statement to Scott Manson on page 64: in his opinion, a mechanical watch’s precision as a timekeeper is immaterial compared to the wonder and majesty of the movement itself.

What do you think? Certainly, a glance at one of Vila’s architectural wonders will always distract you from what the big hand and little hand are pointing at, and simply gaze in awe at the design and craftsmanship. After all, if you really need the ‘proper’ time, there’s always a GPS-regulated iPhone clock within easy reach.

And if your automatic really does lose or gain a few minutes a week? Well, that’s hardly the end of the world, is it?

But if that’s the case, and we really don’t care about the precision of our mechanical watches, why do three of the world’s biggest brands go to all the trouble of finely regulating the escapements of their automatic movements, then spend a fair whack getting them certified as ‘chronometers’? In fact, the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC) facility in Biel, Switzerland certifies over one and a half million mechanical watches per year – some 750,000 of them Rolexes, the rest Omegas (over 350,000), Breitlings (almost 250,000), then some Panerais, Omegas, TAGs, a few thousand Bremonts… All of them proudly bear the word ‘chronometer’ on the dial, because their movements gained no more than six and lost no more than four seconds per day over 16 days, propped in five different positions, chilled to 8ºC and warmed to 38ºC. Three big brands from the sleepy village of Fleurier – Chopard, Parmigiani and Bovet –

have even gone to all the trouble of creating their own standard that takes COSC’s ISO 3159 and ramps things up to 11, even using a robot that replicates an average 24 hours on the wrist – including brushing your teeth. This is quality control bordering on obsession.

Yet this preoccupation with making an obsolete technology not quite as good as that inside a plastic ten-dollar Casio doesn’t stop there. The traditional observatory competition of yore was revived four years ago, for the first time since the Sixties when the aforementioned Casio et al threatened to wipe out the Swiss industry entirely. Held biannually at Besançon’s observatory, just over the border in France, 30 brands have entered 38 watches this year, and as I write they are being subjected to all manner of brutal shocks, magnetism and vibration, bookended by no less than three ISO 3159 tests.

It’s a real nailbiter, last year’s winner Stephen Forsey told me recently. And not just because someone’s ‘beating up’ one of his £450,000 quadruple tourbillons (Greubel Forsey’s Invention Piece No.2) – it’s because he genuinely cares that his watches keep good time.

It’s a matter of both prestige as a watchmaker and a duty to his customers, who are spending more than a detached four-bed in the Midlands on something equipped with a gadget conceived

by Breguet over 200 years ago to ensure a pocket watch keeps better time. Besides, we surely owe it to those trailblazing, pre-quartz-era watchmakers to keep improving on their craft.

Plus it’s a watch, stupid. It’s supposed to tell the time. If you can’t get that right, no amount of mechanical fireworks or snazzy dials will save your face.

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AUTUMN / WINTER 2013 READY TO WEAR COLLECTION www.richardandersonltd.com

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- t h e wo r d -

Thinking outside the little blue box Laura McCreddie

Laura McCreddie is the editor of Retail Jeweller magazine.

It used to be the case that when a chap decided to propose all he had to do was head to the nearest jewellery store, pick up a Tiffany-esque four-claw solitaire and part with two months’ salary, safe in the knowledge that this was just the sort of ring every woman dreamed of.

While there are some women out there who want nothing more than a diamond protruding from a metal band, there is a new generation of brides-to-be who won’t be wearing white to their wedding, won’t be promising to “love, honour and obey” and certainly wouldn’t say yes to a bog-standard ring.

After all, as the thinking goes, if you’re going to wear a piece of jewellery every day for the rest of your life (hopefully) why would you want to be wearing the same thing as everyone else?

So where does this so-called tradition actually come from?

Just like many ‘traditions’ surrounding the circus that is marriage, it’s a new thing. Buying a diamond engagement ring actually wasn’t commonly done until the 1930s. And the only reason it became commonplace was thanks to an extensive US nationwide marketing campaign by the diamond industry, which was spearheaded by De Beers. How romantic.

Choosing something out of the ordinary, rather than something sold to you by a diamond company, is so much more romantic and actually shows that you’ve thought about what the personality of the person to whom you’re proposing.

If you want an example of how picking a bogstandard ring – for a woman who is anything but – is a recipe for disaster, all you have to do

is look at the two engagement rings given to Sex and the City’s fashionista Carrie Bradshaw.

Aidan proposed with a Harry Winston whopper of a diamond – a ring that was lovely but not exactly setting the world alight in terms of design – and that didn’t work out. Mr Big gave her a black diamond, and her “happily ever after”, because, as he tells her: “You’re not like anyone else”.

Although this new trend for unusual engagement rings may seem like a headache, it actually places the entire jewellery store at your disposal rather than limiting you to the engagement section.

If you’re still thinking of heading down the diamond route then Messika’s Move rings, with jewels that slide up and down its centre, are a beautifully quirky option. But you’re not just limited to diamonds or even the other three of the big four – rubies, emeralds and sapphires.

Theo Fennell, meanwhile, has a breathtaking Bee and Blossom Tryst ring, which has a peridot as its central stone, with leaves and bees surrounding it.

And this is before you venture into the realms of cocktail rings, pieces featuring unorthodox motifs such as feathers, skulls or, in the case of someone I know, even a bull.

There is one word of warning when it comes to eschewing the traditional engagement ring.

Although going for something out of the ordinary is liberating and makes an emotional statement, make sure you are absolutely certain of what your other half ’s style is, because nothing transforms a “yes” into a “no way” faster than the wrong ring.

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Cristiano Ronaldo

108 New Bond Street London, W1S 1EF - UK www.frostoflondon.co.uk

G H O S T

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26/09/2013 16:47 26/09/2013 09:53:42

The

Got a question about timepieces?

Put it to AskMen.com’s Watch Snob. Be warned: you may not like what he has to say…

SECONDS OUT?

CHRONO LOGIC

WILL SKELETON STAND THE TEST OF TIME?

Dear Watch Snob, I own a TAG Heuer Monaco automatic and want a second watch.After researching for my price range, I’m thinking about the TAG Monaco LS. Would it be a bit sad to own two TAG Monacos? I am justifying it because my current automatic has a rubber band and the LS is metal.

Hi Snob Do you sometimes wear chronographs?

If you do, which ones would you recommend? Some of them, like the A. Lange & Söhne 1815, I find really beautiful, although useless in everyday situations.

Hello Snob, I was thinking about buying a skeleton Artelier from Oris, and was wondering if you think skeleton watches have some lasting power in terms of style?

There is a particular gene present in some men – often those men who define daring as pairing a patterned shirt with a striped tie – that causes them to go bonkers over one (often mediocre) brand and one brand alone..

The TAG Heuer Monaco is a good watch – one of the best the brand has ever made. And the Monaco LS isn’t a bad watch either. But why do you need both? Unless you want to be the next Arno Haslinger (look him up), go for something outside the TAG family.

Even if your next purchase is an Omega, at least you’ll know what else is out there. Also, you do realise that a strap can be changed in a matter of seconds, right? That means that the rubber strap on the automatic and the LS’s bracelet should have no weight in your decision.

What I’m trying to say is, there are dozens of mono-brand collectors in the world, be they dedicated to TAG Chronographs, Rolex dive watches or Patek’s complications. All are narrow-minded and foolish. A collection needs to include a dive watch, a vintage watch, a dress watch, and a piece of true haute horlogerie.

What sort of a question is that? I couldn’t rightfully wear the title “Watch Snob” if I didn’t sometimes wear chronographs, now could I? And judging by your assessment of the Lange 1815, I seriously doubt that any chronograph I would suggest would be useful for your “everyday situations” – whatever those may be. So let’s just stop right here before things get ugly, shall we?

First of all, let’s get something straight: You’re referring to a skeletonised face, not an actual skeletonised watch. Yes, I do think a watch such as this will have lasting power as I predict an increased awareness of, and attention to the mechanics of high-grade watches in the near future. That said, if you are looking for a true skeletonised watch, consider saving a bit more for a Linde Werdelin SpidoLite or Armin Strom – both truly represent the best in skeletonisation.

To read more from the Watch Snob, head to askmen.com - 47 -

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- au ct i o n watc h -

Underthe hammer Vintage cars, modern-classic wristwatches and even an Enigma machine comprise the auction scene over the next couple of months

Fellows

Founded in 1876 and situated in Birmingham’s historic Jewellery Quarter, Fellows is one of the UK’s leading auction houses. Keen watch collectors should be sure to explore their latest catalogue for a host of desirable pieces to suit every budget, including this modern reworking of the classic auto-alarm Memovox from Jaeger LeCoultre.

Estimated between £2,400 and £3,400. The next Fellows Vintage & Modern Wrist Watches auction takes place on 14 October. fellows.co.uk

Bonhams

Bonhams’ departments are far-ranging to say the least, but it doesn’t get much more esoteric than the Londonbased house’s Science and Mechanical Music sales. At the next one, the ultra-rare, three-rotor German Enigma enciphering machine from 1944 is up for grabs, complete with original I, III and V rotors with Bakelite thumbwheels and matching serial numbers; one of the trickiest models tackled by Alan Turing and his band of boffins at Bletchley Park.

Estimated between £30,000 and £50,000. Bonhams’ Science and Mechanical Music sale takes place on 29 October at the Knightsbridge saleroom. bonhams.com

Motostalgia

The luxury automobile auctioneer from Texas has announced the most valuable auction event ever staged by the company: the Motostalgia Auction d’Elegance, to be held during the 2013 Formula 1 United States Grand Prix weekend in Austin. It’s limited to 75 fine examples of the most sought-after vehicles from around the globe, including the ‘barn find’ pictured above – an ultra-rare, all-aluminum, ridged-body French Grand Prix Rolland Palain racer from 1930.

Estimate on application.

The Motostalgia Auction d’Elegance will take place on 16 November, 4pm CST, at the Austin Convention Center. motostalgia.com

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Rolex A fine and rare stainless steel automatic bracelet watch Milgauss, Ref:1019, made in 1968 ÂŁ8,000 - 12,000

contact +44 (0) 20 7447 7412 watches@bonhams.com

Fine Watches and WRistWatches New Bond Street Wednesday 4 December

www.bonhams.com/watches

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- t h e h ot li st -

Trendwatching Frost of London director Joseph Banin

H i g h s p i r i ts The Jacob & Co Ghost has been true to its name as it arrived in the boutique and sold out in no time. For those fortunate enough to have got one on their wrist, we now have the interchangeable bezels in black PVD, rose gold with diamonds, or carbon fibre. For anyone who said that a digital watch couldn’t be a luxury item, I’d advise them to hunt down the Ghost.

C u ff lov e We have a stunning new bracelet in from the phenomenal Shamballa Jewels. This is a perennially popular brand with our customers which, although much imitated, has never been been beaten. The Royal Bracelet is simple, elegant and available in rose and white gold, from £7,870.

reveals what’s on his radar this month

G o i n g n at i v e For autumn/winter, Florence-based jewellery house Pippo Perez’s Navajo collection presents bold and bright necklaces and bracelets that tick all the right fashionista boxes. What I love about this brand is that they make jewellery that’s meant to be worn, rather than stuck in a safety box and brought out only on grand occasions.

H er e c o m e t h e m o d s Whether lending their modification skills to modern or vintage watches, MAD & Design’s unique adaption of iconic timepieces never ceases to delight. In store now is this Racing Dial Daytona in titanium-grey DLC coating. A totally unique piece.

st r a p yo u rs elf i n We have added to our luxury offering with world famous brand Roland Iten, producer of mechanical luxury for gentlemen. Every budding Bond will love the way that the brand has taken everyday products such as belts, walking sticks and credit card holders and given them a complex twist. This finely engineered belt buckle is a case in point – it’s nothing less than the last word in trouser-tightening technology!

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- fas h i o n & ac c ess o r i es -

frostoflondon.co.uk

01

Spooky swagger A look at the latest alluring luxuries from Frost of London 01 Roberto Coin

02 Theo Fennell

Unlike Miss Muffett, we’d be quite happy for this little fellow to jump on our wrist. It’s a bracelet from the Spider Collection in peach and burnished finish gold and steel, with colourless and black diamonds and rubies.

Ghoulish glamour from the London jeweller in the shape of these 18 carat white gold pear-shaped and pave diamond skull chandelier earrings. perfect for that Halloween shindig.

£13,260

£15,950

03 Maxim Voznesensky

04 Shamballa Jewels

Frightfully fabulous stuff from our favourite Russian jewellery designer, the Maxim Voznesensky Jewellery Theatre – an Eden Collection ring in amethyst with diamonds set in 18 carat white gold.

Ward off evil spirits (and look fabulous in the process) with this funky Ultimate Protection necklace in 18 carat rhodiumplated gold with black diamonds.

From £12,200

05 Theo Fennell The avant-garde jeweller weaves his web once more with these beautifully crafted Silver enamelled heart cufflinks finished with black rhodium from the Alias Silver Arts collection.

£275

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Cvstos This handsome beast comes courtesy of Cvstos, a Swiss brand renowned for timepieces that combine sporty looks with cutting edge tech. A limited edition model, designed in partnership with brand ambassador and Moto GP star Dani Pedrosa (above), there are just 26 pieces available in either dove-grey titanium or ‘Honda Repsol’ orange aluminium. The design takes its cues from the racing world, featuring motorbike-inspired side vents and grip-style push buttons echoing the bike throttle and brake, plus a power reserve that resembles a fuel gauge. A true statement piece for the bolder gentleman. frostoflondon.co.uk

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ADV Santi+Santi

Luxury, Security, Elegance.

Location: Four Seasons Hotel Firenze

I Saloni WorldWide Moscow October, 16-19 - 2013 HALL 11- B01 www.agresti.com

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- g o o d t i m es -

Words – Frank Grice

Henry Cavill

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Is it a bird?Is it a plane?

No, It ’s…

HENRY C AVILL - 58 -

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- g o o d t i m es -

Henry Cavill has the world at his feet, and a rather large pair they are too. The slick and immaculately tailored actor excelled as the lead of this year’s Superman remake Man of Steel, ensuring that an already ascending star was catapulted yet faster into the stratosphere above Los Angeles. Tempus caught up with the British actor – a fan of Omega and Breitling – to recount his take on Clark Kent, as well as delving deeper into the 30-year-old’s ultimate style guide.

Q: What did you do when you knew you’d landed the part of Superman?

It’s kind of surreal when you get a part like that.

You don’t really believe it. Yes, someone can say, ‘You’ve got the part!’ and you sit there thinking, “Okay, great, I’ve got the part.” But the scope of what it is to get a role of this magnitude with such a great team attached, and the opportunity to tell such a wonderful story, is kind of difficult to realise. That’s not to say I didn’t get very excited. I ran up and down the stairs of my house sort of roaring and shouting for a good 15 minutes while I was trying to call my family, because no-one was picking up their phone!

Q: How tough was the workout regime to get you in shape for the role?

I had about two hours a day of really crushing

myself; really pushing myself to the limits.

Mark, my trainer, helped me push past those points. It materialised that my limits were actually far further than I initially realised.

up to 1,500 calories at one stage. So that’s, you know, two thirds of some people’s diet in one shake. I loved it. I loved the eating side of it.

Q: What about the dietary requirements?

I’ve always enjoyed physical activity, but I haven’t necessarily been athletic. I was definitely chubbier in school and haven’t always been in great shape.

There was a special meal plan set up and we were in different places all the time. And initially it was just trying to get it right. Because we didn’t know how many calories I should be taking in to achieve what we wanted to achieve. And then once we got that right, the calories went up or down depending on what we were doing training-wise. At one stage, I was on 5,000 calories a day, which people say is a lot but, actually, is really fantastic and pretty damn easy. I mean, it’s not junk food.

But after training I think we managed to get the post-training shake

Q: Have you always been athletic?

Q: Tell us about your relationship with Omega.

I love Omega watches.

I think a wristwatch needs to match who you are, how you feel and how you dress. If I was a pop star I might have chosen a different watch, but Omega produce beautifully crafted watches that are exactly right for what I wear and how I carry myself.

Q: You wore the Omega De Ville Hour Vision wristwatch for the London premiere of Man of Steel in London recently.

Yes it has that beautiful solidity and style, yet it’s a delicate thing as well.

Q: A bit like Superman, then?

I guess! It seems customary now that film stars sport a leading wristwatch brand. I think it’s the glamour of the industry. It’s a credit to the film industry that its stars are seen as global ambassadors for all manner of things, and I think these days it’s all part of the machine. But I’d never want to overdo that side of things. Yes it’s nice to be offered endorsements and all that, but to me the most important thing will always be what happens

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- g o o d t i m es -

when the cameras roll.

All that promo stuff is just about completing the picture, I guess.

Q: Would you ever wear an expensive watch on set?

It depends on the role.

I like the versatility of a number of wristwatches – they can adapt to what you’re wearing and the situation you find yourself in. It’s very clever. But whether I’d want to risk one on set is something else.

Q: How would you describe your clothing style?

I like suits and like dark shades, smart jeans, that sort of thing – the classic smart casual

look. I think that ‘smart casual’ term is a bit worn out actually, but no-one seems to have come up with a better one!

Q: You’ve never given too much away when it comes to cars.

I’ve taken a while to discover the real beauty of motors, but I’m getting there. Last year I did get the chance to drive the McLaren 12C Spider, and that was just an incredible experience. You realise the workmanship that goes into these machines and it’s quite astounding.

I also found it very difficult to drive slowly in it – the temptation to really put the pedal down was almost too much.

I wouldn’t want to have an accident in one.

Q: Speaking of accidents, are you aware of the Superman curse [the bad luck that has seemed to land on those who’ve take the role in the past]?

I am, yes.

Q: Are you superstitious?

No, I don’t think so. No. I’m not superstitious. I mean, I won’t walk under a ladder just for sense’s sake. But if a black cat crossed my path, it’s not going to be a problem for me. But as far as the curse of Superman goes - I mean, Tom Welling, Brandon Ruth and Dean

Cain, they all seem fine.

So I’m not worried about anything.

Q: How do you like to relax away from the film set?

Well I love computer games. I love watching rugby, hanging out with my friends - the most important thing is friends and family. I like reading, too. It’s nice to escape into a good book every now and then.

Q: Do you read actual books, or view them on the iPad or Kindle?

and it being there... physical and real, and you’re looking at a page as opposed to a light. But the iPad is really handy.

I mean, travelling with any kind of reader like an iPad, whatever it is, any kind of tablet, it’s just easier than carrying five scripts and a book, along with your hand luggage and a laptop perhaps, or whatever it may be.

Tablets do become very convenient... but I do like a good book!

Both – books and the iPad. It’s tough to beat a book; a book is just great. There’s something about holding a book

“Omega watches are right for what I wear and how I carry myself,” says Cavill, who wore the De Ville Hour Vision at Superman’s London premiere recently

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SPIRIT MK II DLC ÂŤFight, Love & PersevereÂť A British and vintage military design watch | A complex three dimensional dial | Matt black DLC coated case Automatic-winding TT738 Calibre | 5-day power reserve | All the indications on the dial are filled in white Super-LumiNova

www.speake-marin.com

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A TRUE ORIGINAL High-end watch designer Franc Vila believes in exclusivity allied to innovation – and his inimitable timepieces reflect those values

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- fr a n c v i la -

Words – Scott Manson

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I

n the rarified world of luxury watches, tradition and precision are paramount.

Passion, however, can often be overlooked. With more and more people able to afford a ‘luxury’ lifestyle, it’s the truly innovative watch brands that are looking to create products of rarity and beauty, borne of singleminded passion.

For proof, look no further than the irresistible force that is Franc Vila, founder of the eponymous high-end timepiece brand. Since its launch at 2005’s Baselworld expo – where it premiered with a minute repeating wristwatch featuring perpetual calendar and moon-phases – Franc Vila has become a respected member of the haute horology community. And the founder has done it on his terms.

“There are three things that underpin our success – our philosophy, if you like,” says the charismatic Valencia-born watch designer.

“The first is that we represent modern luxury – ours is a contemporary aesthetic. Swiss watch brands are generally conservative. It’s a step-bystep industry, and very cautious. Don’t get me wrong, there is no industry in the world that can compare with it for consistency of quality,

but I don’t want to wear a watch that my father wore. That’s why, while we respect tradition, we use new technology to create a defiantly modernist watch.”

Exclusivity and innovation are the other qualities that Vila cites as the hallmarks of his brand, railing against the “mass-produced luxury” of certain well-known watch manufacturers.

“Owning a luxury watch used to make you part of an exclusive club. Those days have faded.

Today’s watch aficionados, and I count myself among them, get more excited about brands that use cutting edge materials and who make full use of new technology,” he says.

The results are watches that truly break the mould. High-complication sport luxe pieces with a signature cobra head face, all of which are suitable for elegant occasions, as well as casual active situations. With his background as the former director of a chemistry laboratory and a science lecturer, Vila is also perfectly placed to work with the latest materials.

“We have a long history of developing avantgarde materials to build the movements or watch cases,” he says. “The FV Nº 6 SuperLigero Skeleton Tourbillon movement was created in an aluminium-lithium alloy with amazing

TRANSPARENT GENIUS: The FVi N°8 Tourbillon Intrepido SuperLigero Skeleton (top) and the FV EVOS 18 “Cobra” Suspended Skeleton (right)

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“I don’t want to wear a watch that my father wore. That’s why, while we respect tradition, we use new technology to create a def iantly modernist watch”

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TRADEMARK PIECE: The super-durable DLC coating on this FV 19 piece is a typically bang ontrend feature from the ever-stylish Vila

In brief What can’t you live without?

Watches, of course. It’s the first thing I choose every morning – an essential part of my day. Sometimes I even wear two!

“I keep pushing for perfection. But perfection is like a horse and carrot – you will never reach it, but you are compelled to keep trying.” mechanical attributes – it’s highly antimagnetic, for example – and I have been using nanotechnological materials based in carbon which allowed me to create a full tourbillon movement in a carbon-graphene composite.”

Although a watch designer, and not a watchmaker by trade, Vila claims he is sufficiently tech-savvy to challenge his production team when they question the feasibility of his initial sketches and designs.

“They say ‘no, no, no’, but I push them, and they make it work,” he smiles.

And his favourite watch in the Franc Vila collection? Always the latest piece, he says.

“I keep pushing for perfection, with every watch better than the last. But perfection is like a horse and carrot – you will never reach it, but you are compelled to keep trying.”

While Vila namechecks the new skeletonised models as his current models of choice, it’s the carbon fibre Cobra timepieces that have proved perennially popular. But is there a typical Franc Vila wearer?

“Not at all,” he insists. “It is right across the board, young and old, the famous and the not-so-famous. One thing they share is a love for special things. They know the difference

between the good and the best, whether that’s in contemporary art, cars or watches.”

Although a resolute trendsetter rather than follower, Vila still keeps tabs on what the competition is up to, and often doesn’t like what he sees.

“This trend for small men’s watches, for example,” he says. “It is not for me. I believe watches should be big enough to express plenty of emotion and play around with form and function.”

Franc Vila fans don’t have much longer to wait before they see the latest expression from his horological highness. Next year’s Baselworld show will see Vila launch several new novelties, including the collection’s first minute repeater tourbillon, a chronograph tourbillon and a beautiful new ladies’ piece peppered with colourful stones.

“My interest in watches came from the first time I saw the second hand on my father’s automatic watch spring to life when he asked me to pick it up,” he says. “It was like a miracle, and I realised that to give watches life, we too need to be alive. This is the deep emotional relation that every mechanical watch owner shares, and I feel it every day.” francvila.com

If you could change a part of your past, what would you change and why?

Nothing. I have no regrets. Everything I have done has lead me to where I am now, and I love my life.

If you were put in charge of the watch industry for the day, what rules would you impose?

I’d make it a condition that everyone has to design with passion, energy and emotion. The watch industry is so hung up on accuracy – one thousandth of a second is neither here nor there.

What’s important is how an object enriches your life.

Do you have any watch design heroes?

Gerald Genta, the legendary figure who designed the Patek Philippe Nautilus. It’s a watch that really captured the spirit of the time.

You’re known as a stylish man. What are your fashion designers of choice?

Well, I have my own tailor, so most of my clothes are bespoke. I do like the sport luxe lines from designers though – it’s similar to the style of my watches – from the likes of Yohji Yamamoto, for Adidas, and Hussein Chalayan for Puma.

Having achieved so much already, what’s next for Franc Vila?

It’s been nearly 10 years since we launched and I’d be happy to remain in a similar position in 10 years time.

I don’t want to produce thousands of watches a year – we will always be a boutique brand producing a few rare things.

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26/09/2013 16:41

Ultimate C O LLE C TA B LE S

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Words – Simon de Burton

Where once it was considered little more than a geeky hobby, collecting is now big business, as rare, iconic items from a range of different areas now achieve huge returns at auction

C

ollecting was once considered the domain of scholarly connoisseurs with an eye for the arcane, but it’s now an activity pursued by enthusiasts across an endless range of fields.

Nowadays, it seems, virtually anything can be considered a collectable, from cars and motorcycles to watches and wine.

The explosion of interest in buying and accumulating for fun, pleasure and profit can, in part, be attributed to the internet, which has made it infinitely easier to gain knowledge and to locate rare objects.

But, with interest rates at an all-time low and the value of money diminishing, many people have simply decided to invest in tangible assets that promise to provide years of enjoyment and also rise in value.

Here we look at six potentially lucrative collecting areas.Â

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Classic cars

A recent survey concluded that the investment value of classic cars has outperformed virtually everything else, including gold. If that sounds too good to be true, it is – because the fact is that only those cars at the very top end of the market have provided such excellent returns – notably models such as the Ferrari 250 GTO (up from £5 million a decade ago to a staggering £20 million-plus today) and some rare competition cars with impressive racing histories. In July of this year, a Mercedes-Benz W196 (pictured above), which racing legend Juan Manuel Fangio drove to his second world Formula One title, became the most expensive

car in the world ever to sell at auction when it fetched £19.6 million at Bonhams.

But it’s not necessary to spend such an outlandish sum to indulge a passion for classics.

As little as £10,000 will buy an entry-level car, such as an MG ‘B’, Triumph TR6 or AustinHealey Sprite, while £30,000-£100,000 will get you into the more exotic territory occupied

by Jaguar’s legendary E-Type, Aston Martin’s original V8 cars and classic Ferraris from the 1980s and ‘90s.

Auction houses: Bonhams.com; Goodingco.com; Historics.co.uk; RMauctions.com

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WATCHES

Our favourite subject here at Tempus also happens to be one of the hottest collecting areas of the moment, with some of the most sought-after vintage pieces from blue chip brand Patek Philippe routinely making sevenfigure sums at auction.

Recently, for example, Eric Clapton sold a platinum-cased Reference 2499 perpetual calendar watch from 1989 (pictured below) for a remarkable $3.6 million, while $1.7 million was paid for a 1981 model with a rare leap year indication feature.

Although Patek leads the field by a long way, Rolex watches continue to attract impressive sums, with examples of the Cosmograph Daytona chronograph with so-called ‘Paul

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Newman’ exotic dial regularly changing hands for up to £70,000 – although a prototype with a unique, lemon-coloured dial holds the record for a Cosmograph after fetching $850,000 at Antiquorum in May. Other brands to look out for at the high end include Cartier, Vacheron Constantin, A. Lange & SÖhne and Audemars Piguet, while Omega, IWC and Longines are also on the up. When buying, however, settle for nothing less than excellent condition and complete originality.

Auction houses: Antiquorum.com, Bonhams. com, Christies.com, Fellows.co.uk, Sothebys.com, Watchesofknightsbridge.com

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Gun auction specialists Gavin Gardiner trade vintage sporting guns from 1860 onwards, like this Watson Bros 12bore pigeon gun

Sporting guns The term ‘sporting gun’ generally refers to any classic English or European shotgun designed for shooting game, and encompasses the early hammer guns of the 1860s to the hammerless, sidelock ejector design, introduced during the 1890s and still favoured today.

The best sporting guns are bespoke, made using the finest materials and invariably finished with elaborate engraving – the most sought-after being English models such as Purdey, E.J. Churchill, Holland and Holland and Boss and Co, although Italian names such as Fabbri and Luciano Bosis are also highly regarded.

With any sporting gun, barrel condition is all important. The barrel must be ‘in proof ’ (ie. must not have been honed beyond the correct

tolerance) and pitting, dents or other marks should be avoided. The value of a matched pair of guns is generally exactly double that of a similar single gun, although when the market is depressed single guns tend to make relatively more. Prices range from as little as £500 for a good quality but well-used English shotgun to £30,000-40,000 for one in fine condition by a leading maker. The Watson Bros 12-bore pigeon gun pictured above, for example, will go up for auction through Gavin Gardiner on 11 December, with an estimated sale price of £30,000-£40,000.

Auction house: GavinGardiner.com (in association with Sotheby’s) Dealer: elderkinguns.co.uk

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PICASSO EDITIONS This ceramic plate, Picador et Taureau designed

by PIcasso in 1959, is an example of one of the less expensive of his pieces

If you’ve always considered the artwork of Pablo Picasso to be unattainable, the chances are you haven’t discovered Picasso Editions. In July 1946, the then 64-year-old artist visited the annual potters’ exhibition in Vallauris, south of France, and became enamoured of the rustic work from the tiny Madoura Pottery. The proprietors, Suzanne and Georges Ramie, invited him to their workshops and soon Picasso found himself grappling with chunks of clay and rekindling a fascination for pottery that he had first discovered while in his 20s.

A year later he returned to the pottery and asked for part of the workshop to be put at

his disposal. Between 1947 and 1971 Picasso produced 633 ceramic designs and made an agreement allowing the Madoura potters to produce limited editions of his works, all of which are recorded, photographed and numbered. Although originally inexpensive, the editions have now become highly collectable – the rarest pieces, such as a double-sided plate called Prof ile de Jacqueline, can fetch more than £100,000, with more basic examples starting from as little as £5,000.

Auction houses: Bonhams.com Dealer: JaneKahan.com

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Gavin Gardiner Limited In association with Auctioneers of Modern and Vintage Sporting Guns, Rifles and Accessories

Forthcoming Auctions: 11th December 2013 Sotheby's London 16th April 2014 Sotheby's London 25th August 2014 Gleneagles Hotel Forthcoming free valuation days: Geneva Paris Harrogate London Edinburgh Glasgow Billingshurst Tiverton

16th September 2013 18th September 2013 9th October 2013 11th October 2013 15th October 2013 16th October 2013 17th October 2013 18th October 2013

Tel 01798 875300 or 07831 645551 www. gavingardiner.com

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Film & entertainment memorabilia The Lotus Esprit from The Spy Who Loved Me (above) was originally built for the movie by a former Navy SEAL, at a cost of around $100,000

Until the BBC Antiques Roadshow expert Hilary Kay organised the first high-end auction of rock and pop memorabilia at Sotheby’s during the 1980s, memorabilia from the performers who had influenced the zeitgeist of the previous couple of decades was not considered worthy of the world’s most prestigious salerooms – but things changed when Sotheby’s began to achieve stellar prices for items relating to seminal names such as Jimi Hendrix and The Beatles.

Other auctioneers soon jumped on the bandwagon and the remit of the sales quickly grew to include all forms of film and entertainment memorabilia – most notably props from landmark 1970s and ‘80s productions such as Star Wars, Alien, 2001:

A Space Odyssey and, of course, the James Bond movies.

While many of the most coveted pieces are now held in private or corporate collections, iconic objects occasionally appear and attract high bids from 40 and 50-somethings who have both the desire and the means to own objects that they first saw on the big screen as youngsters. A classic example was seen at auction house RM in September when what was surely the ultimate example of Bond memorabilia came up for sale, in the form of the famous Lotus Esprit ‘Submarine’ car driven by Roger Moore in the 1977 movie The Spy Who Loved Me. It sold for £616,000.

Auction house: Bonhams.com

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This Baulé Mask from the Ivory Coast in Africa sold for €781,500 at Sotheby's in June of this year

TRIBAL ART

The tribal art market can be divided into two categories – decorative pieces that were first made towards the end of the 19th century purely to sell to outsiders (missionaries were the first buyers) and the true collectors' pieces made by tribespeople specifically for their own use in ceremonies and as totems.

The former can be bought for as little as £80, while the best examples of the latter can fetch £1 million plus - at the height of the market in 2006, a Gabonese ‘Fang’ mask from the Pierre Verite collection sold for a record €5.9 million. The principal sources of tribal art are Africa; Oceania (notably Australia, New Guinea and Polynesia) and the Americas (pre-Columbian pieces and those made by the Inuits and north American Indians).

After the 1930s, most tribes ceased to produce items for their own use, so serious collectors tend to be interested only in earlier pieces. The most sought-after works include those of the African Fang, Baule and Senufo tribes – all Polynesian pieces – those from the Sepik River area of New Guinea and artefacts of pre-Columbian America’s Olmec and Mayan peoples.

Watch out, though – it’s easy to buy a fake, so be sure to source only from reputable dealers and auction houses, and insist on a dating certificate.

Auction house: Sothebys.com Dealer: JBBacquart.com

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With over 300, Original Vintage Film Posters available to purchase from our online gallery, Defy convention and find a stunningly different original vintage film poster. Film Poster Art are passionate about collecting stunning, original, vintage film posters from around the world. Through our own personal collection we hope to be able to provide you with a uniquely beautiful framed and mounted original vintage film poster, from the world to your wall. We are proud to present for sale for the first time our selection of stunning original vintage, domestic and international film posters from US, UK, Poland, Belgium, Japan, France, Czech Republic, Thailand and beyond; we have always celebrated the fact that many countries use different artwork and styling which gives a unique version of films that people hold dear or are discovering for the first time.

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27/09/2013 09:53

THE WORLD’S BEST HI-FI

COME FIND UTOPIA AT KJ WEST ONE K J W E S T O N E | 2 6 N E W C AV E N D I S H S T R E E T | L O N D O N | U K | W 1 G 8 T Y T: 0 2 0 7 4 8 6 8 2 6 2 | I N F O @ K J W E S T O N E . C O . U K | W W W. K J W E S T O N E . C O . U K

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27/09/2013 18/03/2013 10:03 16:46

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Words – Alex Pell Additional reporting – Pete Booth

RETR AUDI

Despite the huge advances in audio technology down the years, connoisseurs and manufacturers alike are increasingly looking back to classic styles and sound quality for inspiration

THERE IS an expectation that audio products must continuously evolve in terms of how they function and how they look. The digital revolution has undoubtedly caused profound leaps in convenience to the point where it now seems ludicrous that albums were once recorded as 17-minute bursts of music because this was the maximum amount of music you could fit on each side of a vinyl LP without losing sound quality. Nevertheless, some of the most desirable kit has retained its original style for many years. For instance, the Klipsch Klipschorn loudspeaker has been in continuous production, largely unchanged, since 1946. More curious, though, is the number of new audio products conspicuously

designed to evoke memories of a previous era.

It’s a trend that’s not only limited to audio.

After all, people routinely invest in a classic timepiece or sports car because the heritage or design is more desirable than the modern equivalent. If not, we’d all have a bland chunk of quartz-powered horology ticking away on our wrists. We are not talking about the relative merits of, say, an amp made in the Seventies compared to one built today, but rather why so much premium hi-fi has channelled a retro vibe today.

It is, in fairness, something of a loose concept. The past is a big place, so to describe something as ‘retro’ tells us less than we think it does. And despite common perception,

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classic riginals

many of the greatest technological advances in how things sound were devised decades ago, and have mostly just been enhanced and fine-tuned since then.

“Several firms have consciously stuck with, say, analogue peak-meters or a traditional chassis as it’s part of their brand, even if the innards have moved on,” says Ricardo Franassovici, founder and managing director of Absolute Sounds, the UK’s leading distributor of high-performance audio equipment.

“There is a definite trend in the ‘quality’ audio sector for customers being prepared to spend more on high-quality engineering and a premium level of finish. The use of materials like solid aluminium, copper, wood and leather may be perceived as ‘retro’ but it

Audio Research VSi75 amplifier Valves in an amplifier provide far more than retro chic. Many insist that the warmth of their sound cannot be matched.

Audio Research makes some of the finest ones – at ten times this price – but the exposed tubes and top electronics of the VSi75 gives the best of both worlds.

£7,499, audioresearch.com

is merely a desire to make audio components and speakers more timeless and desirable to own. People want to invest in products that will last for many years, rather than cheaper, throwaway stopgaps.”

Even so, many new hi-fi products are plainly designed to appear more traditional than they are. So Tempus put this point to some of the leading lights in audio.

“It’s a distraction to ask if a product is supposed to look retro”, says Alan Rourke, founder of Ruark Audio, which makes digital radios and other hi-fi housed in elegant wooden cabinets. “Great design is timeless, so the real issue here is the calibre of the design itself. Look at the Barcelona chair.

This could have been designed today rather than fifty-or-so years ago. Consider a classic

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McIntosh MA7000 amplifier Do things your own way long enough and you will eventually come right back into fashion.

McIntosh amps have always had physical peakmeters and gorgeous knobs to twiddle with.

Some models now offer digital inputs, others even have valves, but they are all seriously cool.

ÂŁ8,999, mcintoshlabs.com

Many of the greatest technological advances in how things sound were devised decades ago, and have mostly just been enhanced and f ine-tuned since then

Roksan Xerxes 20 Plus The Xerxes has been sold since 1985 with ostensibly the same demure styling, and yet is still king of the hill in terms of sound. Pretty much any previous Xerxes can be updated to the latest spec, which is an astonishing testimony to how ahead of its time the original model was.

ÂŁ6,000, roksan.co.uk

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Quad ESL-2812 electrostatic speakers Forget pretty much everything you know about speakers. The original Quad ESL electrostatic model genuinely redefined audio back in the 1950s, and though it has undergone many improvements since then, this latest incarnation remains faithful to all of its merits.

ÂŁ6,499 per pair, quad-hifi.co.uk

While sound quality will always be the key factor for buyers, product design is more important than ever Bang & Olufsen Beosound 4 system Nobody has proven a more consistent source of elegant designer kitsch than B&O and in particular, its all-inone systems could hail from almost any point within the last few decades.

The underlying technology in them has moved on (gradually), but the look is utterly distinctive.

ÂŁ2,499, bang-olufsen.com

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Naim Supernait 2 amplifier Naim is a British brand that has steadfastly stuck to its guns in terms of product design. While it has released many innovative streaming products, this new version of the firm’s classic stereo Nait amplifier has ditched all of its digital inputs and focuses firmly on sound instead.

£2,749, naimaudio.com

chronograph watch, such as my favourite, the IWC Portuguese. This has an understated elegance and a quality of craftsmanship that means it simply won’t date.”

Rourke also argues the adoption of natural materials or curved surfaces is more about adding quality than to trying to recreate the past. This view is supported by Bert Kiggen, vice-president of D&M Holdings, parent company of Denon and Marantz. “If you look at trends in interior design, as we do closely, there is a clear increase in the use of leather and wood. Let’s call it old-fashioned luxury.

However, when you employ these materials within audio equipment they tend to make people feel nostalgic, even if that is not what you had in mind.”

It’s true that a little more leather or wood does add a certain old school feel, yet the decision to add switches, dials, or older display technologies into contemporary kit

also adds a good-looking nod to nostalgia.

“While the trend is partly about luxury, perhaps people hanker for a time when things were simpler – or at least easier to use”, says Kiggen.

It seems there is something of a backlash against technology for its own sake, with many buyers seeking out products that complement the aesthetics of their living space, rather than opting for a pile of oblong metal boxes that are stacked in the living room.

“We also find that customers like to look at a product and know what it actually does – for instance, a radio – as opposed an anonymous cloth-covered box of tricks," says Rourke.

While some audiophiles look to hide their kit, others hunt down pieces that blend with their décor. Sound quality will always be the key factor for buyers, but product design is more important than ever before. And, right now, those in the know are going retro.

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brand new retr Marantz Consolette Created to celebrate the 60th anniversary of the Marantz brand, this unique Airplay dock showcases many classic design elements of previous decades – not least the curved rear casing made of walnut.

It’s a sumptuous piece of kit despite a curious omission of Bluetooth.

£799 marantz.co.uk

Ruark R7 radiogram From the lush walnut veneer to the (optional) spindle legs, this Ruark bears all the hallmarks of a vintage radiogram.

However, this is a cuttingedge music system with a sophisticated array of built-in speakers, audiophile-grade aptX Bluetooth, and digital inputs for connecting extra kit.

The R7 is expected to cause quite a storm when it is finally released in November.

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Luxman D38u CD player Again, Luxman has a pedigree for vintage electronics. However, with its wooden case and levers, this new model curiously evokes an era prior to the launch of CD itself, back in 1982. There is even a valve showing through the fascia, although it seems largely superfluous.

Bel canto C7R DAC receiver

£2,395, luxman.co.jp

Don’t be fooled by the LED display and old-school rotary dial. This cunning Bel Canto is a top-class amp that boasts a classy digital-to-analogue convertor, inputs for hooking up everything from a turntable to a slew of digital sources, and even has a radio. It’s a tiny modern miracle.

£2,799, belcantodesign.com

Euro Audio Team E-Glo Phono stage What could be more ironic than one classic piece of technology dressed to look like another? It may look like a reel-to-reel tape machine, but this is a valvebased preamplifier to be used in tandem with a turntable.

Reel-to-reel is now largely defunct, yet its design lives on.

£3,999, euroaudioteam.com

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TURBINE XL, A1050/1 TECHNOLOGY OF THE DOUBLE ROTOR.

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26/09/2013 10:33 16:53 27/04/2012

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Still harbouring that schoolboy dream of becoming a racing driver? Here are the track-day cars that can take you one step closer to podium glory

BLAME better safety measures. Blame crumbling racetracks’ need to spin more profit. Blame Top Gear – whatever it is, track days are bigger than ever. And who wouldn’t want to emulate Clarkson et al, sideways, hugging a kerb, V6 howling at top chat, with absolutely no need to check one’s mirrors for flashing blue lights?

Truth is, you’re more than likely to be caught in a spin, or too meek to even make that a concern – but just as we buy ridiculously over-specced luxury cars that we’ll never bring anywhere close to 200mph, it’s the very idea of indulging that reckless, petrolhead side of our nature that appeals among similarly car-nutty contemporaries.

But therein lies the problem; who in their right mind would dream of putting something as refined – and, needless to say, expensive – as an Aston Martin Vanquish or

Bentley Continental GTC around a track, on the limit? More to the point, who in their right mind would dream of putting their pride and joy in the way of those reckless boy racers in their scuffed-up Imprezas?

Which is where you need something far better suited to the track environment.

Not only something you’re more willing to abuse, but also a car that will deliver that allimportant visceral racing experience – noise, vibrations, irrational fear – the lot. After all, a Bentley may well be perfectly at home weaving through a chicane at 100mph, but as well as blinding performance, the engineers of Crewe also worked in smoothness, quietness, predictability and precision.

Where’s the fun in that?

Here are the slightly unhinged track-day cars du jour, which will keep you on your toes and out of your mind with excitement.

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Words – Alex Doak Ariel Atom 3.5

Before KTM, there was Ariel – the original stripped-back, white-knuckle pocket rocket, requiring little more than a helmet and a helluva lot of guts, famous for making Jeremy Clarkson’s face billow and ripple weirdly (still a YouTube phenomenon). Based in Crewkerne, Somerset, Ariel’s current models are the Ariel Atom 3,5 and the limited production Ariel Atom 500 V8 with a 500 bhp V8 made from two – yes, two – Suzuki Hayabusa engines. It is, quite simply, the fastestaccelerating production car on the market right now, reaching 60mph in less than 2.5 seconds.

Fancy a go?

arielmotor.co.uk

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KTM X-Bow R

It’s difficult not to like a brand that’s based the original designs for its ‘X-Bow’ not on classic racers, a jet fighter or any other typical resident of a brand’s moodboard, but rather the crisp white panels of Bjork’s robot in her All Is Full of Love video.

KTM are Austrian and motorcycle manufacturers by trade, so things were never going to be conventional. Together with the specialists at Italian sports car manufacturer Dallara, the composites experts Wethje, the think-tank KTM Technologies and engine partner Audi, what is probably the most exciting super sports car of our times was produced in only 18 months, ‘ready to race’, as per KTM’s motto. Dispensing with a roof and the windscreen, as well as the omission of air-conditioning and entertainment systems, all takes a little getting used to.

But it allows concentration on the most important aspect: the driving experience.

ktm.com

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W H ER E TO U S E T H EM The Home of British GP

Yes, believe it or not, you really can drive the spiritual home of British motor racing in your own car, at speed, without having to make friends with Bernie Ecclestone. Official Silverstone Track Days run regularly and include food, in-car instruction, shared garages – the whole package.

silverstone.co.uk The Next Level

Caterham SP/300.R

Lotus’s Colin Chapman practically invented the notion of a lightweight, fast, inexpensive sports car for enjoying round the track back in the 1950s, and the poster boy for that philosophy was his ‘7’ car, the rights to which Caterham Cars bought in 1973. The Caterham 7 has barely changed in design ever since, and regularly tops driver polls as the best track-day car – hell, sports car period – of all time. This year, however, Caterham have collaborated with legendary engineering firm Lola on this, their first-ever track-only car. Driven by a supercharged 2.0-litre Ford Duratec engine and capable of 180mph (as well as 60mph in 2.8 seconds), the SP/300.R is the perfect alchemy of British engineering superiority and rich motor sport heritage.

Importantly, it’s a true driver’s car, and probably the closest you’ll get to a genuine Le Mans prototype racer of all our featured models.

uk.caterhamcars.com

With the Nürburgring crumbling and struggling to find a new owner, it’s down to other European tracks to bring the track day into the 21st century.

Bilster Berg is one of them: owned by Count von Oeynhausen-Sierstorpff and configured by circuit-designer extraordinaire, Herman Tilke, it’s a remarkable place to drive your car. What’s more, the facilities are cutting-edge (several garages, to avoid team-swap-over lag between sessions) with the Count’s luxurious Gräflicher Park spa hotel nearby.

bilster-berg.de The Ultimate

Belgium’s Spa Francorchamps is the racetrack all other tracks are compared to. This temple of racing, with its notorious, sweeping Eau Rouge corner, is worshipped by Formula 1 drivers and amateurs alike. And, yes, you can drive it, on one of Spa’s ‘Thrill Packages’, public driving days or test days. The ‘Public Driving Experience’ gives you four 25-minute runs at an incredible-value €235.

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Lotus V6 Cup

The spirit of Colin Chapman lives on at Norfolk’s legendary Lotus plant – chiefly in the Racing department, where this track-happy beast comes to fruition. Based upon the road-going Exige S, the lightweight V6 Cup is powered by a 3.5-litre supercharged V6 engine driving through a 6-speed gearbox and for the first time an optional race-specification, 6-speed, paddle-operated sequential gearbox, all ultimately providing keen amateurs with a level of handling and acceleration capable of taming Europe’s most demanding racetracks.

lotuscars.com

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26/09/2013 13:55

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Ocalendar I Nunderway, C LofUevents, Bwhy Wincluding EM B LEngland’s E A of Nthree D year’s an the unrivalled upcoming FIFA With newJseason not watch theYrest the trophies * Brazildecided World Cup qualifi tous games M at E EClub T A ers, F Oaccess OJoin TB Atickets L L Lfor30 Eworld-class GOctober E N D2013 being Wembley? before andincluding meet the NFLlegend International Series a guaranteed at all the *biggest events . football Sir Geoff Hurstand before your first place England game † until 2017 With. the new season underway, why not watch the rest of the year’s trophies Membership ofdecided Club Wembley, oneJoin of us the world’s most2013 exclusive clubs, provides being at Club Wembley? before 30 October and meet * . football legend Sir Geoff Hurstpriceless before youroffers first England game You will also enjoy many other from behind the scenes, including an unrivalled calendar of events, including England’s three upcoming FIFA

breakfast with England manager, post-match press conferences and the Membership of Club Wembley, one ofto thetickets world’s most clubs, provides Brazil World Cup the qualifi ers, access forexclusive world-class games including an unrivalled calendar of events, including England’s three upcoming FIFA chance to see the England the NFL International Series team and atrain. guaranteed place at all the biggest events Brazil World Cup qualifiers, access to tickets for world-class games including

. NFL International Series and a guaranteed place at all the biggest events until 2017†the Prices from per person, per event^. Find out more by calling Huw Graham † . untiljust 2017£167 onwill 020also 8795 9527 or email You enjoy many otherhuw.graham@wembleystadium.com priceless offers from behind the scenes, including You will also enjoy many other priceless offers from behind the scenes, including withEngland the England manager, post-match press conferences and the breakfast breakfast with the manager, post-match press conferences and the to see the England team train. chance to chance see the England team train.

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*Offer is subject to availability and terms and conditions. If Sir Geoff Hurst is not available, an alternate date will be agreed. †Matches that form part of a bid event where The FA is not the owner such as The UEFA Champions League Final and the Rugby World Cup Finals are not included. ^£167 per *Offer is subject to availability and terms and conditions. If Sir Geoff Hurst is not available, an alternate date will be agreed. †Matches that form part person price is based on a Club Category membership for an average of twelve event per season. of a bid event where The FA is not the owner such as The UEFA Champions League Final and the Rugby World Cup Finals are not included. ^£167 per person price is based on a Club Category membership for an average of twelve event per season.

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26/09/2013 16:59 210x297_CW_Tempus_02.indd 1

12/09/2013 17:30

- m oto r i n g -

Radical SR3 SL

When Phil Abbott and Mick Hyde launched Radical in 1997, they knew they were creating something truly unique. Their aim was to produce a high-performance sports car, utilising superbike technology for the track and road. The result was a lightweight, road-legal sports car occupying a niche of its own, whose 380bhp SR8 ended up smashing the Nürburgring Nordschleife production car lap record. The SR3 SL takes Radical’s racing DNA to the streets: combining knowledge from competing across Europe and the USA, including at the world-famous 24 Hours of Le Mans, this 300bhp road-legal car, powered by a turbocharged Ford EcoBoost four-cylinder engine, is the perfect track-to-road machine.

Morgan Three-Wheeler

Track cars are all supposed to be a bit crazy, and Morgan’s Three-Wheeler certainly looks it, but this iconic, fiercely independent British car manufacturer actually started off life on three wheels, when founder Henry Frederick Stanley Morgan penned his lightweight design way back in 1910. The principal of fitting a powerful motorcycle engine and transmission to a simple chassis created the first ‘cyclecar’ and Morgan’s ‘Runabout’ introduced open-road motoring to the masses.

Fast forward a century, and the ThreeWheeler certainly has retro appeal, just like all of Morgan’s handmade, part-wooden four-wheeler coupés, but that’s where it ends.

Simply because this is all about unbridled, begoggled jollies around racetracks, the tail flailing like a fish.

radicalsportscars.com

morgan-motor.co.uk

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- m oto r i n g -

Ginetta G60

Midlands garage brand Ginetta was founded in 1958 by the four Walklett brothers, whose G4 of ’61 was aimed squarely at the club racer who wanted a cost-effective weekday road car and a weekend racer. New Ford engines gave it the necessary performance to firstly beat the MGBs and TRs before taking on and winning against such exotica as the Jaguar 3.8. Entrpreneur and keen raceboy Lawrence Tomlinson bought the company in 2005, and not only is he perpetuating Ginetta’s lineage of rock solid sports cars, but he has introduced a tiered Drivers’ Club of single-make race series for have-a-go amateur racers, as well as this – his first proper supercar.

Luxuriously appointed, yet blindingly quick for the price, it’s as much a track car as a GT posemobile.

ginetta.com

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26/09/2013 11:25

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16.09.13 14:43 26/09/2013 17:01

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27/09/2013 10:01

- J ew ellery -

Words – Hannah Silver

ALL HAIL THE

avant garde A new breed of designers are reinventing the art of jewellery, and redefining our conceptions of beauty

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- J ew ellery -

IT’S AN EXCITING time for jewellery aficionados as a host of designers, both established and new, are transforming the industry. While you can still look to London’s Bond Street stalwarts for your tasteful, beautifully-cut white diamonds, more forward-thinking buyers are following the new wave of jewellery makers who are pushing the boundaries of possibility, creating a fresh definition of what’s beautiful.

Theo Fennell, one of the best-known producers of quirky pieces, says this new movement reflects a desire for works that are genuinely original.

“The people buying this jewellery have some self-confidence and style and are fed up with the branded pap being sold as ‘haute’ jewellery,” says Fennell. “It shows they have the wit to own something no-one else has. Why wouldn’t you have something beautifully crafted and full of interest, rather than something overpriced and weakly conceived that you can buy in any city or airport in the world?”

He draws on a wide range of influences and inspiration to create his pieces. The result is a rich mix that includes a gold cuff bangle that resembles the railings on London’s Kings Road, dragonfly necklaces crafted in yellow gold and diamonds, and gold rings featuring Ghandi, Churchill or Shakespeare. His Masterworks collection is particularly special, with the highlight being a ring that opens to reveal kissing frogs under a flawless emerald – the perfect marriage of luxury and left-field thinking.

Joseph Banin, director of Frost of London, is also a jeweller who embraces the extraordinary.

As well as stocking Theo Fennell and Jason of Beverly Hills – another brand that has been wowing customers with its original, controversial pieces – his New Bond Street store also offers its own range that celebrates unconventionality.

It features show-stopping pieces such as rings that resemble a spiderweb picked out in black diamonds and onyx, or a white diamond

BOLD STATEMENTS: Theo Fennell’s Gandhi ring (above) and King’s Road Railings Bracelet (right) epitomise his quirky style

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- J ew ellery -

elephant sporting a pink sapphire hat. Banin believes the clients buying these are looking for something different.

“We have a huge diversity of clients with a taste for more unique and trendy pieces,” he says. “They’ve either already bought the usual classic pieces and are now looking for something different, or the traditional styles that their parents wore just do not interest them.”

This is something that’s struck a chord with a plethora of other companies who are making their mark in the jewellery business, with their new projects providing a shot in the arm to this sometimes staid industry. Tresor Paris, for example, has been working with British brands to produce pieces for London Fashion Week, from huge shoulder pieces to exquisite

BOLD: Jason of Beverly Hills’ Revolver Ring and Skull necklace, two typically startling, uncompromising pieces

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byMG/FI

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26/09/2013 17:12

- J ew ellery -

diamond sphere necklaces and matching earrings. From next year, the brand will focus on sourcing rare and unusual diamond creations, as well as introducing an entirely new diamond cut with more facets, allowing for a greater sparkle than any established cut.

Salim Hasbani, owner of Tresor Paris, says: “There is a real mix of buyers for our more unusual pieces. The more outlandish the design or the rarer the gem, the more affluent the pool of buyers become – they want to own incredible pieces that stand out from the crowd.”

He attributes the change in buying habits to an ongoing aesthetic evolution and agrees that when spending a large amount of money, buyers now want something distinctive with incredible craftsmanship.

As well as using unexpected stones in unusual juxtapositions, smaller designers are experimenting with what actually constitutes jewellery. Matt Tremblay of new brand, RogueDZN, is celebrating jewellery by redefining it. Instead of using gold and precious

CHAIN OF COOL: One of the superbly stylish diamond sphere necklaces created by Tresor Paris for London Fashion Week

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A REFLECTION OF YOUR STYLE INTRODUCING THE STERLING COLLECTION Luxury Leather Goods and Accessories Hand Crafted in the United Kingdom

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26/09/20134:26 17:13 20/11/2012 11:23 19/11/12 PM

- J ew ellery -

HARD-EDGED BEAUTY: RogueDZN’s C6-Darkhorse (above) and DC Leather pendant (left) combine aggression and style

stones, his pieces are harder and defiantly masculine, all machined from billet block and using G5 aerospace grade titanium to create strong statement products.

Tremblay refuses to compromise on his jewellery, shying away from traditionally pretty designs and unapologetically presenting what are essentially slick mechanical sculptures.

“It’s always difficult for people to comprehend the value of something they have never seen before, but I hope to challenge people to open their minds to new ways of defining value outside the usual and comfortable,” he says.

“I remove the distraction of noble metals and precious gems in order to allow an individual to focus on the unique industrial design, stateof-the-art materials and machining processes used to create our works of art.”

Catherine Best’s jewellery also challenges traditional definitions by giving more old-

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OLD MEETS NEW: Three of Catherine Best’s pieces, unique jewellery that gives old-fashioned designs an original, contemporary twist

fashioned pieces a contemporary twist. She uses cameos (the word was originally used to describe the relief carving of an image) to create beautifully unique pieces, including cameos carved in agate, a naturally hard material first used by the Romans. For Best, as with most jewellery designers, the creativity that goes into producing such unique pieces is reward in itself.

“Balancing creative beauty with the practical needs of the client and all the time working towards producing a unique item is a poignant reminder of how important my role as a jewellery designer is,” she says.

It’s this passion and genuine desire to create something new that makes seeking out these smaller, offbeat brands so worthwhile. While Bond Street will always be the home of beautiful, traditional jewellery – and those styles will surely always be with us – next time you’re in the market for something a bit special, why not take the road less travelled?

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THE

PRIMITIVE COLLECTION

Inspired by the Bedouin tribes of the Arabian deserts - all to create the genuine mystique of the desert tales. This collection includes the Black Tahiti, Black Onyx and the Snowflake Obsidian.

✯ CUTTING-EDGE DESIGN

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26/09/2013 17:29

EST 1990

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22/05/2013 10:18

- De grisogono -

Words – Andre Gayle

fr i en d s W I T H

A

L I T T L E

H E L P

F R O M

M Y

His jewellery is seen on A-list celebrities everywhere. But the path to the top has not always been smooth for de Grisogono founder Fawaz Gruosi

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- De grisogono -

If you’re a female celebrity then there are three things that are pre-requisite for your arrival on the red carpet – the killer hairstyle designed weeks in advance, the haute couture gown you were sewn into an hour before you arrived and, of course, the stunning jewellery that brings the whole look together. Get any of those things wrong and you’re staring down the barrel of an E! Channel blow-by-blow, bare-knuckle description of exactly how badly you got it wrong It’s probably why the jewellery maker of choice on all the best red carpets is de Grisogono. Not convinced? Then just ask Salma Hayek, Paris Hilton, Sophia Loren, Alessandra Ambrosio, Demi Moore or Heidi Klum, all of whom have been spotted wearing the brand’s show-stopping creations.

That’s not bad PR for an empire that struggled badly at first. Confounding expectations with innovative and unusual combinations was always going to be a hard sell for any new jewellery maker, but that never stopped the man at the heart of that empire, Fawaz Gruosi, founder of de Grisogono. His name reflects his Lebanese and Italian heritage and this exotic mix is carried through to the brand beloved by so many of the world’s glitterati.

It’s no coincidence then that luxury events and concierge service The Anonymous should be working with Fawaz at his spectacular, starstudded 20th anniversary de Grisogono party at this year’s Cannes Film Festival.

“This all began 20 years ago,” he tells us proudly as he looks around. “Before that time

I worked for other ‘brains’ out there but there came a moment when I wanted to change my life and do what I liked instead.”

It’s probably only a giant in the industry like Gruosi who could comfortably group names such as Harry Winston and Bulgari under the innocuous collective heading ‘brains’. And it’s probably his unorthodox upbringing – first in Lebanon and then in the Tuscan city of Florence where he found his first job at a local jeweller’s boutique – that impressed upon him the desire to always follow his own tune, even if others couldn’t hear it.

“I constantly took risks when I launched de Grisogono,” he says. “When I created pieces I basically did the opposite of what was accepted in the market at the time.”

This included re-introducing the black diamond to the world of high jewellery in 1996. Prior to that they were seen as the ugly stepsisters of a gemstone that was defined globally by its clarity. But Gruosi saw its beauty.

Black was the colour of choice in most fashionable women’s wardrobes, so why not in their jewellery boxes too?

“In a way it was a bit shocking [for the industry and the consumers]. For a couple of years we were selling very little, if anything, because nobody was used to our style.”

The strain of the faltering new business took its toll on his business partners, ultimately leaving Gruosi as the sole architect of his and the brand’s fortunes. It’s hard not to wonder what those former partners think of their decisions now, 18 years and 17 stores later.

“We’re now at the top of the luxury market,”

DAZZLING:A ring (left) and bracelet (right) from the de Grisogono collection FAMOUS FRIENDS: Below, from left: De Grisogono founder Fawaz Gruosi attends a photocall at Cannes; Fawaz with Sharon Stone at the 20th anniversary de Grisogono party; Jean-Claude van Damme and guest at the party; LMFAO and Paris Hilton join Fawaz on stage in Cannes; Flavio Briatore and wife Elisabetta Gregoraci on the red carpet

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"I constantly took risks when I launched de Grisogono. When I created pieces I did the opposite of what was accepted in the market"

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- De grisogono -

"I tell you what, when I put on events I never think ‘commercial ’ or that we have to sell. It’s a moment for me to invite my friends and my clients and say, ‘thank you’"

he says. “It seems like a miracle to me because when we started we were a new name, hard to pronounce, with not enough capital to invest – we were not selling ties, after all.

“Now we’re in Cannes celebrating 20 years at our annual event. A miracle. For this anniversary, I designed 20 iconic haute couture pieces to be shown here, never to be repeated, each one signed with my name, Fawaz,” he says with a smile. “Some women will be rewarded with some real investments tonight.”

Throughout those two decades Gruosi fought to ensure his brand became a design leader in the market and never a follower. Most experts in the jewellery industry agree that everyone recognises a de Grisogono piece, whether that’s a black diamond piece or, more recently, the ‘ice’ diamond – stones with so many apparent imperfections they look like frozen water.

Even behind the sparkle, his insistence on trying to find his own unique aesthetic is evident. He collects Chinese, modern and ancient art in equal measure and, befitting of a man in search of his own perfect blend, he has a wine cellar at his Geneva home stocked with the very best that vineyards around the world can offer. It’s easy to see why he considers himself ‘more an artist than a businessman.’

IN DEMAND: Jimena Navrez shows off a de Grisogono ring (top left); Fawaz with Veronica Veronina and Dita Anata (top right)

He’s still enough of a businessman, though, to have recently overseen de Grisogono’s best first-half-year results since the company began.

“It’s been a crazy and unexpected year so far. We still feel the [financial] crisis with the lower-priced items but with the medium to high it’s been amazing. We’ve never had a year like this. Insane sales.”

And what better place to celebrate that at the de Grisogono party at the Cannes Film Festival – one of the toughest tickets in town to come by.

“I tell you what, when I put on my events I never think ‘commercial’ or that we have to sell. It’s a moment for me to invite my friends and my clients and say, ‘thank you’ – to make sure they’re happy and having fun. It’s only because of who my friends are that we have 35 TV channels from around the world filming it. I put a lot of love into it, and I always love partying myself, so why not?”

It’s a fitting surrounding for a man of creativity and style. Fawaz stands centre stage, suave and debonair with his glamorous co-host, Sharon Stone. As one of the guests, Hollywood super producer Harvey Weinstein, eloquently puts it, “It’s a shame Cary Grant isn’t alive to play him in the movie.” degrisogono.com, the-anonymous.com the-anonymous.com

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27/09/2013 10:05

More than a luxury Ski Holiday......

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27/09/2013 10:06

25/9/13 17:39:26

- fr en c h s k i s p ec i a l -

Words – Alex Doak

SKI LA FRANCE!

The second instalment in our luxury skiing series hops over the border from Switzerland to France: home to some amazing slopes, vibrant après ski and, as we discover, beautiful places to stay

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FRANCE is a skier’s paradise. With over 8,000km of pistes, it is one of the largest winter destinations in the world, and one of the most popular, thanks to its crisp mountain air, glorious sunny scenery, perfect powder and, yes, a longestablished high-end scene.

It is on the French-Italian border that the French Alps region offers the broadest range of skiing opportunities anywhere in Europe, beyond the Vosges, the Jura, the Massif Central and the Pyrenees. Here you have a vast choice of resorts and, on account of the high 4,000m-plus altitude, the most reliable snow conditions.

Here, we focus firstly on Les Trois Vallées, whose Courchevel, Val Thorens and Les

Menuires resorts comprise the world’s largest ski area, accessible with a single pass. With 183 ski lifts and 335 downhill pistes, the area gives skiers access to over 600km of slopes – more than enough for even the most demanding of skiers. With almost 2000 snow cannons, the area is also able to guarantee that a fair number of pistes will be open even if the snow does not come in abundance.

Further north, towards Geneva, we then visit the charming duo of mountain towns, Megève and Chamonix, both complemented by winterwhite vistas of the Haute-Savoie department of the Rhône-Alpes, and dominated by the jewel in the Alps’ crown, Mont Blanc.

CHIC CHAMONIX: A stunning view over arguably the longestestablished and bestknown French winter resort from one of its many ski lifts

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- fr en c h s k i s p ec i a l -

CHA M O N IX Nestled beneath Mont Blanc’s looming 4,810m bulk in the Haute-Savoie, Chamonix has long been popular with accomplished skiers and snowboarders, its extensive steep terrain offering a wide spectrum of challenges. For less confident intermediates, quieter pistes and enjoyable cruising can be found at the Balme area above Le Tour.

Considered France’s ‘original ski destination’, ‘Cham’ fosters an old-school feel of exclusivity, but also a tangible bonhomie, with some sublime dining destinations to visit such as Le Sarpe, Hotel Eden and La Cabane.

Chalet Baloo, Chamonix

La Ferme Du Bois, Chamonix

Photography - Jeremy M Wilson

A favoured location for fashion and film shoots, this recently refurbed five-bedroom property mixes rustic styles with modern details and comes complete with an outdoor hot-tub, home cinema room, antique furnishings and a dining room with space for 20 guests. The result is a five-star chalet with lots of charm, history and authenticity, plus a brilliant view of the Mont Blanc massif. hipchalets.com

Combining rustic farmhouse chic with complete luxury, Baloo provides up to 14 guests with an outdoor heated plunge pool, hammam, sauna and outdoor hot tub all set amidst beautiful woodland. As an added treat, there is a state-of-the-art cinema room on the basement floor, well stocked with DVDs, while the decorative balcony outside provides a wonderful spot to absorb the breathtaking views of the Chamonix valley. amazoncreek.co.uk

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- fr en c h s k i s p ec i a l -

Chalet Des Drus, Chamonix

Photography – Erland Haugen

Probably the most fabulous and well equipped chalet in the valley, it boasts seven luxurious en-suites (two master suites with fireplaces and chaise lounges) and a spectacular living area with terrific views.

Huge French windows lead to a beautiful terrace with BBQ and a wonderful garden beyond, while a spa below includes a heated indoor swimming pool, gym, steam room, treatment room and outdoor hot tub. Heck, even the dining room’s slate table uses iron legs from the workshop of the Eiffel’s Tower’s Mr Eiffel himself. hipchalets.com

M EG eVE Long a fashionable choice of the beau monde, Megève exudes old-town charm. There is a relaxed feel to the skiing, which encompasses the areas of Mont d’Arbois, Rochbrune and Le Jaillet – a total of over 300km of piste including some enchanting woodland runs, with simply breathtaking views up to Mont Blanc. Lying between 1113m and 2350m altitude, in the heart of a wide variety of landscapes, Megève, along with Combloux, la Giettaz, SaintGervais, Saint Nicolas de Véroce and Les Contamines, boast 445km of equipped pistes, 107 ski lifts and 219 pistes as well as 647 snow cannons.

HIGH LIFE: Megève lies in the valleys below Mont Blanc, with a population of just 4,000 people – a small town with a big reputation

Chalet One Oak, Megève Ultra-hip and maybe even a touch too cool for school, no expense has been spared in creating this high altar of modern style. Not only does One Oak have amazing open fireplaces, original artworks and a Harley-Davidson in the hallway, but it also offers a beyond-five-star level of service. There are housekeepers to tidy up, chefs to prepare gourmet meals, a concierge service and other staff to attend to your every need while you gawp at the jaw-dropping views from the master suite’s balcony jacuzzi. firefly-collection.com

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Ultimate luxury Holidays Villas · Chalets · Yachts · Lifestyle

Your enchanted winter wonderland...

Our Chamonix chalets are located in private woodlands, with spectacular views of Mont Blanc. Enjoy ultimate luxury during the winter season with private chefs, hosts and chauffeur driven vehicles. After an invigorating day on the slopes, enjoy freshly made afternoon tea, cosy the children into the cinema room with their favourite movie, then pamper yourself in the chalet spa facilities and prepare for dinner!

Tempus magazine readers will benefit from a 10% discount, if you book before 31st November 2013.

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CHA L E T T RO I S CO URO NNE S , V E R B I E R , S L E E P S 15

PHOTOGRAPHY by Y VES GA RNE AU

The finest collection of chalets in the world

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27/09/2013 10:09

- fr en c h s k i s p ec i a l -

L’Alpaga Hotel, Megève Five-star L’Alpaga has 27 rooms and suites, renowned restaurant La Table de l’Alpaga, lounge restaurant l’Onyx and a fantastic spa La Colline with a new al fresco Scandinavian bath. But it’s the hotel’s five neighbouring chalets that garner the headlines.

Covering 250 square metres, they have been designed in the purest Megève tradition and cater for up to 12 people on three floors (nothing is over three floors at Alpaga, preserving the chocolate box landscape) with six bedrooms and four bathrooms ensconced within traditional shingle rooftops, wooden eaves and wooden balconies. alpaga.com

The indoor pool offers variable depth and can also be converted into a conference room, should you need to get some work done on your holidays

Chalet Indigo, Megève Situated on the Baron de Rothschild’s land, this is a five-bedroom chalet of unmitigated luxury features including, on the ground floor, an indoor pool in real stone, alongside the jacuzzi and hammam. The pool offers variable depth and can also be converted into a conference room, should you need to get some work done on your holidays. The home cinema with bar is equipped with deep sofas and can be transformed into a private nightclub, should that work be getting too much, with equipment for a DJ and a karaoke machine. oxfordski.com

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CO U RCH EVEL

SWISH ALPS: Courchevel (above) is one of France’s perennial high-end destinations, nestled in the Tarentaise Valley

Studded with Michelin-starred restaurants, Courchevel is reputed to be the most upmarket ski resort in the French Alps, on a par with Switzerland’s Zermatt and St. Moritz. Its wide, perfectly groomed pistes are ideal for beginners, while intermediates and advanced skiers will find endless challenges.

Courchevel 1850 is highest of the resorts four swish villages and the epitome of ski chic, its jet-set crowd returning each year for the unrivalled combination of glamorous lifestyle, glittering nightlife and, of course, thrilling skiing.

Edelweiss, Courchevel Sleeping 16 over two master-bedroom and six double rooms, the incredible Chalet Edelweiss in Courchevel 1850 is an absolute masterpiece. This epic development brings a whole new level of luxury to Courchevel, covering over 3,000 square metres over seven floors, no less. With an exclusive location in the sought-after Bellecote Hamlet, on the Bellecote piste, this property has it all – including an enormous indoor pool, state-of-the-art gym and nightclub – with a slick, contemporary twist on the oak-beamed Alpine interiors style. luxurychaletcollection.com

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THE FINEST SELECTION OF AWARD WINNING CHALETS IN MERIBEL AND COURCHEVEL AT THE HEART OF THE 3 VALLEYS IN THE FRENCH ALPS, THE LARGEST SKIING AREA IN THE WORLD.

Reservations: Tel. +44 (0) 1844 344955 Email. info@alpineinfusion.com Website. www.alpineinfusion.com 000_Ad.indd 1 alpine_Ad.indd 1

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- fr en c h s k i s p ec i a l -

Chalet St Christophe, Courchevel Nestled in the exclusive Nogentil sector of Courchevel 1850, the centrepiece of St Christophe is a magnificent southfacing sitting room and dining room with panoramic views across the slopes. The chalet is surrounded by an extensive sun terrace featuring a games area with table football and air hockey, outdoor heaters and a fully stocked bar. Run by no less than five dedicated members of staff, your professional, bilingual French chef will craft everything from traditional French cuisine to à la carte breakfasts and four-course dinners with paired wines. alpineinfusion.com

Le Chabichou Hotel, Courchevel Something of a local institution, entering this unique Relais & Châteaux four-star is to experience a veritable hug of luxury, with warm wooden décor, a family spirit, cosy comforts and well-being, perched right on a mountain peak. It’s the gourmet restaurant at Le Chabichou that is best known however, boasting two Michelin stars and honours in the Gault Millau and Bottin Gourmand guides. Michel Rochedy and Stéphane Buron’s classic haute cuisine brings out the best of local products and flavours from Les Trois Vallées and beyond. chabichou-courcheval.com

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COZY MOUNTAIN PERFECT

CERVO Mountain Boutique Resort Riedweg 156 CH-3920 Zermatt +41 27 968 12 12 www.cervo.ch

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27/09/2013 10:13

- s u p eryac h ts -

Words – Ellie Brade

Show

MONTE CARLO OR BUST: The famous Port Hercule bay plays host every year to some of the world’s finest superyachts

b est i n

For superyacht owners from across the globe, the Monaco Yacht Show has become the place to be seen, and to see some of the world’s most unique vessels unveiled NOW in it’s 23rd year, the 2013 edition of the Monaco Yacht Show was another spectacular showcase of the world’s pre-eminent yachts, with more than 100 vessels on display in the harbour of Port Hercule. With MYS one of the most eagerly anticipated events in the yachting calendar, visitors were lining up for a first glance at the groundbreaking yachts newly-launched this year.

With the social side of the show as much of a draw as the yachts themselves, the event calendar also did not disappoint and was crammed full of exclusive events. Thursday saw an awe-inspiring Red Arrow flyover courtesy of Superyacht UK. 200 VIP guests watched from the broadwater as the iconic jets tore above Port Hercule, celebrating Superyacht

UK’s 10th anniversary. Parties and events continued into the evening and, for those lucky enough to secure an invite to the on-board evening yacht parties, watching the sun set over the harbour with a glass of champagne in hand was the perfect way to end a day of walking the docks.

As the biggest yacht at the show, Quattroelle was making her world debut and was one not to be missed. She didn’t disappoint her many admirers. The 88-metre yacht was delivered by German yard Lürssen earlier this year, and designed by Nuvolari Lenard – the first collaboration between the highly respected yard and design house. And what a collaboration. Quattroelle presents as sleek and elegantlyprofiled, despite her immense volume, fitted throughout

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SAILS OF THE CENTURY: (Clockwise from top): Quatroelle; J’Ade; Event; Chopi Chopi

in a way which is inherently luxurious while retaining the sense of relaxation so important to her owners. She amply lives up to her name, which in Italian means four ‘L’s: love, life, liberty and luxury.

Not far behind Quatroelle in length was the elegant 80-metre Chopi Chopi, the biggest yacht ever built by Italian yard CRN. From the same yard, the 60-metre J’Ade was setting the tone for innovation, with a floodable tender garage allowing guests to hop aboard tenders easily from a side-opening hatch, ready to explore.

Another stand-out yacht that was one of the ‘must sees’ of the show was the 60-metre Event, also making her worlddebut. Designed by British designer Tim Heywood, the

motoryacht’s vertical bow and pared-back lines give her a distinctive look, while her scimitar bow gives her a longer waterline and low fuel consumption even at her top speed of 16.5 knots.

With a yacht for every person and style, this year’s event firmly cemented MYS as the leading global gathering of luxury yachts. Organisers are already looking to 2014, which will see 15 new berths added, including two able to house yachts of up to a whopping 120 metres in length. With more yachts than ever, the 2014 event will surely be the biggest and best show yet.

Ellie Brade is the Pacific Editor of Superyacht magazine.

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- M oto r i n g -

Words – Kyle Fortune

racing green A hybrid capable of 0-62 in 4.4 seconds? Welcome to the BMW i8

Price

CIRCA £100,000

Performance

0-62MPH (0-100KM/H) 4.4 SECONDS

Top speed

155MPH OR 75MPH FULLY ELECTRIC

Engine

1.5-LITRE TWINPOWER TURBO THREE-CYLINDER PETROL WITH HYBRID SYNCHRONOUS MOTOR. 362HP COMBINED OUTPUT, 570NM OF TORQUE

Transmission

6-SPEED AUTOMATIC, HYBRIDSPECIFIC ALL-WHEEL DRIVE

Construction

ALUMINIUM AND CARBON-FIBREREINFORCED PLASTIC

Sports cars are indulgent, selfish and wasteful, right? Not the new BMW i8, finally revealed in its production guise at Germany’s home motor show in Frankfurt. As landmarks go it’s significant, BMW dovetailing its environmentally friendly offerings by heading the range with the i8, the supermini-sized i3 being its bigger volume option, the i8 for those not wanting to sacrifice a sporty drive for a clean, green conscience.

It looks radical, deliberately so, as it has to stand out from the busy sports car crowd. It’s constructed with a mix of aluminium and carbon-fibre reinforced plastics – standard issue for top level sports cars these days.

Where it differs is its drivetrain, which mates a 3-cylinder BMW TwinPower turbocharged petrol engine of 1.5 litres to a plug-in hybrid synchronous motor with an integrated charging and generator module. The combined output of the electric and combustion engine

cocktail delivers a heady 326hp hit, enough in this 1,490kg machine to reach 62mph in 4.4 seconds and a 155mph maximum - with both powertrains working in unison.

Five different driving modes are offered, allowing anything from up to 22 miles of driving on pure electricity - with a top speed of 75mph to a combined range of 310 miles. The lithium-ion battery pack can be charged via a socket, or managed by coasting, regenerative braking or the combustion engine itself.

That allows a combined consumption figure of 113mpg and CO2 emissions of 59g/km and running costs - in electriconly mode - in pence rather than pounds.

A zeitgeist sports car that redefines the genre. No longer a selfish, wasteful machine, the i8 is a sports car you can buy and enjoy with the knowledge that it’s creating less environmental impact than a Toyota Prius. It’ll be immeasurably more enjoyable, too. Expect there to be a waiting list.

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RACING GREEN CARS

1968/F Jaguar E-Type S1 4.2L FHC Extensively Refurbished, RR Velvet Green. £84,995

2003/53 TVR T350 3.6L Targa, Shackelton Green Pearl, RGC ENGINE REFURBISH. £27,995

1971/K Jaguar Beacham E-Type 4.2 V8 SC, 6 Speed Automatic, Ice Pearl White, 3,880 Miles. £145,000

1970, Jaguar D-Type 4.2 Revival 1 OF 12 MADE, British Racing Green, £46,995

2005/55 TVR Sagaris 4.0L Speed Six, Two owners, Mystic Black Pearlescent, ONLY 13,000 Miles. £55,995

2002/52 TVR Tuscan S 4.0L Speed Six, Estoril Blue, 24,500 Miles. £22,995

website: www.racinggreencars.com email: kenm@racinggreencars.com tel: 01252 894790 mob: 07817270931 racing green_Ad.indd 1

27/09/2013 10:50

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27/09/2013 10:16

- h ot els -

Words – Mike Hill

Blooming marvellous Join the Bloomsbury set, courtesy of Myhotel AH, BLOOMSBURY, home of literary gatherings, museums and, as it turns out, a rather fine hotel. Tucked away just off London’s Tottenham Court Road, Myhotel Bloomsbury is that curious thing – a first rate hotel that’s within walking distance of Soho, Covent Garden and Oxford Street, yet has remained curiously under the radar.

This unobtrusive feel is, in part, down to it occupying a discreet four-storey Georgian townhouse beside leafy Bedford Square.

Inside, the sense of calm continues with a feng shui-designed interior resulting in contemporary minimalist rooms with splashes of retro touches. Down below is Gail’s Kitchen, a bakery serving breakfast,

lunch and dinner, plus a rib-sticking selection of cakes and pastries.

On check in, I heard the magic words: “Sir, welcome, you will be staying in our top suite”.

And what a place it was. Dubbed Myspace1, it felt like I’d walked into a luxury apartment.

From the high spec kitchenette to the separate living area kitted out with a huge plasma screen TV, some funky wall art and a stereo that looked like it could power the VIP room at the Ministry of Sound, this place would be

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- h ot els -

perfect for a late-night party. Not sure how well that would go down with the staff and owners – perhaps it’s one to test another day.

As I walk through the living area and open its huge sliding doors, I am greeted by the bedroom – a vast space with yet another plasma screen, plus a gorgeous en-suite bathroom and, best of all, a roof terrace where I enjoy a nice bottle of sauvignon blanc while surveying the capital from 100ft above the busy streets. Oh, and for those of you who

still smoke, it saves a long journey back to terra firma. Heaven for every weed fiend.

As with the best hotels, it ‘s the little touches that make a stay truly special and here they came in abundance. My favourite was the ‘music pillow’, which comes with an iPod connection so you can drift off listening to your favourite tracks. I loved it, although my wife didn’t share my enthusiasm. Apparently Eminem didn’t quite get her in the mood to drift off.

This suite would make the ideal weekend getaway, being a stone’s through from theatreland and the retail heaven of the West End. Helpful staff, perfect location and excellently designed rooms – plus that hefty sound system – makes this as perfect for a romantic break, as it is for a post-party late night session. Just keep it down if I’m next door, yeah? myhotels.com

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Baird-Tempus-ad:Layout 1

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27/09/2013 10:22

- g ro o m i n g -

Words – Scott Manson

A-list exercise If you were looking for another reason to visit London’s fabulous Bulgari hotel, then its Bodyism course is surely it In terms of intimidating moments, being asked to take your top off by an attractive lady who’s clutching a set of scary looking body fat measuring calipers is right up there.

I’m at London’s opulent Bulgari hotel, home to Britain’s only Bodyism clinic, to get the cold, hard truth about my health and fitness, and receive some sage advice from its trainers in residence.

For the uninitiated, the Bodyism wellness programme is the brainchild of celebrity personal trainer James Duigan, whose clients include the model Rosie Huntington-Whitely, Holly Valance, the cast of the X-Men movie and ‘the body’ herself, Elle Macpherson. The ultimate goal is to achieve optimum health, through a combination of exercise, improved sleep, better nutrition and, of course, the motivation that comes from having some of the UK’s most in-demand personal trainers pushing you on.

“We give you the blueprint for a long, lean, healthy body,” says trainer Tegan Haining, as she puts away the calipers and I scramble to regain some semblance of cool. “It’s a formula for long-term results, rather than just putting you a diet for a few weeks. Also, we don’t believe in the ‘no pain, no gain’ philosophy. We’ll work you hard, for sure, but you won’t be in agony the next day.”

Besides the body fat measurement, Tegan also quizzed me on my diet (not great), drinking (ditto) and sleep (I need more). We then headed downstairs to the hotel’s well-equipped gym, complete with wallmounted – and very expensive –Technogym Kinesis machine, where she put me through a variety of exercises designed to measure both my strength and movement range. My pressups and core strength were passable, for example, but my toe touching and balance was laughable.

To Tegan’s credit, she kept a straight face throughout until, finally, I was dispatched from her session armed with a Body Oracle printout,

documenting a full eating program and exercise plan.

I decided to start my fitness campaign straight away. In truth, this entailed sitting in the healing water jets of the Bulgari’s vitality pool while munching an apple. I watched a couple of keen-as-mustard types ploughing up and down the adjacent lap pool and thought: ‘no sense in rushing things, Rome wasn’t built in a day.’

My advice? By all means investigate the Bodyism sessions – they clearly get great results. You’ll find me lounging in one of the spa’s poolside cabana reading the papers. Like I said, baby steps. bodyism.com bulgarihotels.com

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HATTERS SINCE 1898

73 JERMYN STREET LONDON

252 RUE DE RIVOLI PARIS

+44 (0) 207 930 2329

+33 (0) 2142603609

www.bates-hats.com bates_Ad.indd 1

27/09/2013 10:53

- T EC H N O LO GY -

Words – Alex Pell

super

amps

Forget exotic multi-room systems or surround sound. These stereo amps are ideal for those who want to fill the room with sumptuous music rather than a rack full of metal boxes Dan D’Agostino Momentum stereo preamplifier

Those seeking to savour the finest sound money can buy will find there comes a point when audiophile kit tends to transmogrify into multiple pieces of product. With amplifiers, in particular, the pursuit of excellence does often involve having separate devices for each aspect of the performance – for instance, the left and right channels.

However, a great amp need not necessarily be ugly, as proven by this elegant piece of industrial engineering. The Momentum’s front-mounted display is said to be inspired by the styling of fine Swiss watches, particularly Breguet, the favourite brand of the designer, Dan D’Agostino. As the co-founder of Krell, perhaps the world’s best-known maker of audiophile amps, he knows a thing or two about sound, so you will struggle to find anything to monster this copper-clad beast sonically. The snag is that to make it sing you also need a power amp to provide the musical muscle and the matching stereo model will cost £22,000 on top. Who ever said the best was cheap?

£32,900, dagostinoinc.com

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The Lars Type 1

Many people insist the only path to audiophile heaven is a stereo amp made with vacuum valves (see retro audio on page 81) as opposed to the more conventional solid-state electronics that have largely superseded these. There is surely no finer – or more unusual – example of a valve amplifier than the Lars Type 1. Despite appearances, this a single amp, albeit one priced more akin to a supercar. The design is truly quirky yet this audio curio has a liquidity to its sound that has led many to describe it as among the best amps ever made.

£75,000, thelars.se

Classe CP-800

If you are unsure what equipment you want to connect to your system then this Classe model gives you a vast array of options. Even though this is a stereo model there are a plethora of digital inputs and the option to connect sub-woofers too or up to four power amplifiers and, like the Dan D’Agostino, you’ll also need at least one of these latter to make it fly. However, once partnered with something suitable, the CP-800 is truly as formidable as it is flexible.

£4,450, classeaudio.com BMC CS2

If you are less likely to hang upon every breath of a classical flautist than enjoy the sensation of your spine being mildly re-arranged by the sheer power of sound, this innovative BMC amp will do the job and then some. This isn’t to say the CS2 lacks sonic sophistication but rather that the emphasis here is on delivering powerful thrills that match the striking case-design. For the money, this single-lump monster of an amp will certainly give you one hell of a ride.

£6,000, bmc-audio.com

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000_Ad.indd 2 TEMPUS-2013-10-Interview DJ-EXE 08 OK-VEC.indd 1-2

27/09/2013 10:23

Lately Clinic Lémanic was honored to receive at UNESCO - Paris IIPP merit for the Development in Medical & Aesthetic Technologies.

INFORMATION Tél: +41 21 321 20 82 info@cliniclemanic.ch

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27/09/2013 06.09.13 10:23 09:38

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27/09/2013 20/08/2012 10:25 14:35

- T R AV EL -

Words – Scott Manson

G L A M O R O U S G S TA A D

PHOTOGRAPHY: YVES GARNEAU

The jewel in Switzerland’s skiing crown boasts a spectacular new five-star hotel

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- T R AV EL -

IN THE BILLIONAIRE’S ski enclave that is Gstaad, it takes something special to create a stir. With 2012’s opening of the 56-room Hotel Alpina, the town has just that.

Granted, it may be a little gauche to talk money when we’re discussing a sophisticated resort which sits, naturally, in the most exclusive part of Gstaad but, really, the figures are astonishing.

It cost £210 million to build and, I’m told by the hotel’s spokesperson, it has already covered its costs.

This is down to a canny move that saw the hotel’s owners build three chalets on the grounds and incorporate 11 private apartments in the hotel. Two of the chalets were sold outright to a Russian oligarch and the third one as apartments.

Chalets in the Oberbort neighbourhood, the hotel’s location, Gstaad, go for roughly £4,500 per square foot. In other words, the chalets, plus the hotel apartment sales paid for the hotel.

Although not a glitzy place – the aesthetic is more one of quiet elegance – a closer look reveals where the money has been spent. My arrival,

for example, was via a vast, heated private road tunnel which deposits guests at reception – an essential when it’s snowing hard outside. Don’t want to get slush on the wheels of your gleaming new Rolls-Royce Wraith now, do you?

The reception itself is the perfect antidote to the early morning start – from the spiritsapping Stansted airport – that this trip entailed.

It’s peppered with hip contemporary furniture, including a B&B Italia piece, sidetables by Linley, lighting fixtures by Pinto Paris, handwoven Tibetan carpets and an in-house Graff jewellery store. Even the reception desk is a work of art, with its polished wood cut from a single fir tree. An elegant staircase leads to the first floor bar and restaurants and, on both floors, a crackling fire burns in stone fireplaces.

“Quite frankly,” says my wife, while gazing around in wonder. “I’d sleep in the lobby.”

My daughter, meanwhile, flops into an enormous armchair and, in the time it takes us to sign a couple of check-in forms, does just that.

We carry her upstairs and plonk her into her bed, with a Hotel Alpina cuddly toy goat thoughtfully placed on the pillow, while we explore our new home for the weekend.

Constructed with antique barn wood, sourced and installed by Chaletbau Matti, the go-to brand for chalet architecture in Switzerland, it includes genuine antique painted dressers and cupboards, plus a selection of more contemporary pieces. A large bathroom, packed with highend unguents just demanding to be liberated, completes the interior. Outside, a balcony looks across the snow-covered valley and the pictureperfect village of Gstaad.

Elsewhere in the hotel, for those in the enviable position of being able to spend £13,000 per night on a room, the Panorama Suite is the place to stay. This three-bedroom duplex space is essentially a magnificent apartment, with a showstopping second floor that boasts

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CHALET CHIC: Hotel Alpina is kitted out top-to-toe in B&B Italia, Linley and lighting fixtures by Pinto Paris, while the Penthouse Suite’s offers a cathedral-ceiling spa room with a central fireplace, steam room, sauna, massage room and terrace jacuzzi.

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- T R AV EL -

MEGU serves meltingly tender kobe beef carpaccio, and some of the most exquisite sushi this side of Tokyo a cathedral ceiling spa room, complete with a central fireplace, steam room, sauna, massage room and terrace jacuzzi. It also comes with a kitchen, private chef and butler. Sadly it was booked when we arrived – as it is for 50%-60% of the time during peak season – otherwise I’m sure we would have been ushered up there.

The hotel has also invested heavily in quality staff. Arguably top of the tree when it comes to big hitters is the executive chef, Zurich’s best, the double-Michelin-starred Marcus Lindner.

He oversees the cuisine of the property’s three restaurants: the first European outlet of MEGU, a Japanese restaurant; a traditional Swiss stübli; and an all-day dining restaurant that features an international menu. Over the course of our stay we sampled all of them, with the Japanese dining room serving some of the most exquisite sushi this side of Tokyo, plus meltingly tender kobe beef carpaccio.The relaxed and informal stübli was no slouch either, with my daughter delighting in her first fondue experience which concluded with a dessert comprising some ‘plate art’in the shape of

Clockwise from left: all-day fine dining at Restaurant Sommet; the first European brand of the Japanese MEGU chain; a suite at the Alpina, bedecked in Tibetan carpets.

a Hello Kitty cartoon character, carefully drawn on her dish with various sweet sauces.

And the skiing? Oh my, the skiing. Acres of perfectly groomed slopes, populated by skiers who wouldn’t look out of place on a Vogue fashion shoot. Thankfully, although our ski clothing was more H&M than D&G, the hotel’s superb ski shop had kitted us out with the latest equipment so we almost looked the part. My snowboard was so new that I saw them remove it from the factory wrapper.

At the end of a day on the slopes, the Alpina’s 21,000 sq ft Six Senses spa, with its 85-footlong lap pool, really came into its own. If there’s a better way to soothe the pain of snow-based tumbles than relaxing in a eucalyptus-scented steam room after a few gentle laps of a pool, then I’ve yet to find it.

Gstaad is a beautiful, charming place.

Somewhere that, despite its glitziness, still has an authentic old-world appeal. With the opening of Hotel Alpina, it has a new jewel in its crown. thealpinagstaad.ch

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Master a classic, rally-prepared Porsche 911 on an ice-covered lake in northern Sweden. With meticulously prepared lake circuits, lined by cushioned snow banks and world-class instruction, we deliver the ultimate ice driving experience for all abilities.

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27/09/2013 10:40

- T R AV EL -

Words – Nicola Venning

MORE SWISS ALPINE ACTION Momentum Ski Festival, Crans Montana

Best known as the setting for the alpine ski race during the 1987 World Ski Championships, and for the annual Omega European Masters golf tournament, this southwestern Swiss resort also hosts a yearly business networking shindig, the Momentum Ski Festival. Organised in conjunction with the Financial Times, it brings together business leaders with a host of celebrity guests which, in previous years, has included Damon Hill, Colin Jackson and Heston Blumenthal, plus a number of former and current ski champions.

A full nightly programme of après ski – from music to comedy – is also included. momentumskifestival.com

Cervo, Zermatt

In the shadow of the snow-capped Matterhorn sits Cervo, one of the hipper enclaves in the Swiss Alps. Book into one of its modern, minimal deluxe rooms or the antler-adorned suites and enjoy a panoramic mountain view from their sun terraces. Alternatively, take the plunge and book the Presidential Suite, which has a long dining table, huge lounge and its own high-spec kitchen. A fabulous restaurant, superb spa and, when the sun’s shining, a vast outdoor bar area completes this picture of Alpine idyll. cervo.ch

AL FRESCO: Cervo’s sweeping bar terrace has clear views to the Matterhorn’s famous pyramidal magnificence.

Tschuggen Grand Hotel, Arosa

In what is surely an Alpine first, this incredible hotel boasts its own ski-in skiout miniature railway – the Tschuggen Express – which whisks guests directly to the Arosa skiing and hiking area. The 130-room hotel itself offers guests the choice of five restaurants, a 5,000 sq m wellness complex and a Michelin-starred restaurant. Better still, visit on 28 November and you can enjoy a day’s private skiing on the Grisons mountains, before they open to the public on 30 November. The hotel will also organise its very own special giant slalom for guests to tackle. tschuggen.ch

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info@ecuriebertelli.com www.ecuriebertelli.com

Tel: +44 (0)1234 240024 Fax: +44 (0)1234 240054

Only 600 Aston Martins were produced before 1940. Only 450 survive, which makes all pre-1940 Astons rare and highly sought after. No more than fifty of each of the four main models were built by the works. Some of the rarest and most valuable were made in single figure numbers. Ecurie Bertelli Ltd. exists to supply expertise for all pre-1940 Aston Martins, including a huge inventory of new spare parts made from original works drawings, service, race and rally preparation and car sales. Andy Bell has worked in the business since 1976 when it was started by Nick Mason. Andy has raced and rallied pre-1940 Astons all over the world and is recognised as the leading authority on these cars.

A FEW OF THE BEST ASTON MARTINS AVAILABLE IN THE WORLD

1935 1 ½ litre Ulster 2/4 seater One of four, only two survive in original condition. Brooklands racing history. Ready to race and rally. Mille Miglia and Le Mans eligible.

Price £850,000

1935 1 ½ litre MKII short chassis 2 seater One of two built with coachwork by E. Bertelli Ltd. Recent engine rebuild to racing specification. Very correct and original.

Price £245,000

1934 1 ½ litre MKII short chassis 2/4 seater 50 miles since total rebuild to concours standard. 50 years in storage, 3 years in restoration The best example in the world.

Price £225,000.

1936 15/98 2 litre short chassis Complete rebuild 2009-10. Dry sump 105bhp Speed Model engine. Completed the last two Flying Scotsman rallies with ease.

Price £185,000.

Contact Andy Bell for further details on these four cars and others in our current inventory info@ecuriebertelli.com ecurie bertelli_Ad.indd 1

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Heuer wins the space race Until two years ago, TAG Heuer had no idea that it had made the first Swiss timepiece in space; that accolade had traditionally gone to Omega’s legendary ‘Moonwatch’ Speedmaster or (less well known) Scott Carpenter’s Breitling Cosmonaute of 1962. Then, someone decided to take a closer look at a grainy photograph from 1962 of NASA astronaut John Glenn boarding the Friendship 7 spacecraft, on his way to orbiting Earth three times – a matter of months prior to Carpenter. To provide a back-up to the timing equipment in the spacecraft, John Glenn had a Heuer 2915A stopwatch strapped to his arm, with a makeshift band made by NASA. It was the first Swiss watch to break from Earthly bonds and worthy cause for celebration at TAG Heuer HQ, albeit 50 years late. In combination with the Swiss brand’s new association with ‘SpaceX’, a commercial company set up by PayPal entrepreneur Elon Musk that aims to land a man on Mars in 15 years, a retro-futuristic chronograph was ‘launched’... But we still prefer Glenn’s makeshift timepiece, now safely ensconced in Washington DC’s National Air & Space Museum.

tagheuer.com

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