Tempus 11

Arnold & Son / Claude Bosi / H i sto ry o f Sw i ss watc h m a k i n g / Men’s accessories City bonus special / Jac o b & C o / Maserati Quattroporte / Angelo Galasso / H i g h-en d au d i o

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Watch with tourbillon escapement, 18K red gold case water-resistant to 30 meters. Sapphire crystal back.

CORUM automatic movement with micro-rotor.

108 New Bond Street | London W1S 1EF | www.frostoflondon.co.uk

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Swiss movement, English heart

Swiss made / Worldwide limited edition of 500 pieces / ETA 2824-1 self-winding certified chronometer / 38 hour power reserve / Satin finish titanium case / Water resistant to 500 metres / Internal countdown bezel / Helium release valve by FIMM / AR08 anti-reflective, museum grade sapphire crystal / Deep-etched back plate engraving / SuperLuminova hands and indexes / High-density rubber dive strap TM

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108 New Bond Street, London, W1S 1EF Tel: 020 3372 0108 - www.frostoflondon.co.uk

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- fo r ewo r d -

issue

eleven Contributors

From the editor Editor

Scott Manson

scott.manson@astongreenlake.com 020 3617 4693 Art Director

Ross Trigg

ross.trigg@astongreenlake.com 020 3006 2122 Writer

Hannah Silver

hannah.silver@astongreenlake.com Business Development Director

Mark Edwards

mark.edwards@astongreenlake.com 020 3617 4688 Senior Account Manager

Tom Pettit

t.pettit@astongreenlake.com Senior Account Manager

Maxime Mendelewitsch

maxime@astongreenlake.com Managing Director

Jay Boisvert

A long time ago, in a previous editor’s role, I had to spend a few days with some British farmers. They were fine, upstanding fellows and, given that they had to get up at 5am, surprisingly keen to party late into the night. At no point, though, did I ever look at these horny-handed sons of toil and think, ‘You know what, I’ll bet they would make great watchmakers.’

And yet, as we reveal in this issue, that’s exactly how the Swiss watchmaking industry began. Through the depths of winter, 18th-century farmers would swap tending cattle for turning metal through lathes to produce mechanical movements for the country’s burgeoning watchmaking industry. You’ll find this fascinating look back in time on page 57.

We also investigate the world of high-end audio and highlight the links between premium hi-fi and luxury timepieces. Plus, if you’ve been lucky enough to receive a sizeable payday during bonus season, we showcase some of the best investment products – from classic cars to modern art – for your consideration.

Elsewhere, I head to Italy for the launch of one of the world’s biggest superyachts, we catch up with Jacob Arabo – founder of the Jacob & Co watch and jewellery brand – and get the story of Arnold & Son, the watchmaker responsible for the beautiful timepiece on this month’s cover. And its movement? Swiss, of course. Those farmers left us one heck of a legacy.

Ariel Adams Ariel is one of the world’s most frequently cited and best respected bloggers on the watch industry. His ablogtowatch.com site is one of the most popular watch blogs on the internet.

On page 29 he reveals his personal highlights of the recent SIHH luxury watch show.

Alex Doak A contributor to Tempus since issue one, Alex writes about timepieces for Men’s Health, among others. In this edition he reveals the fascinating story behind the origins of the Swiss watchmaking industry, on page 57.

Enjoy the issue.

Tempus is published monthly

by Aston Greenlake publishing Ltd, 8th floor, 6 mitre passage, london se10 0er.

TEL: 020 3617 4688

Ken Kessler Although best known in Tempus as a watch expert, Ken has also been writing for Hi-Fi News magazine for over 20 years.

Regarded as one of the subject’s most respected commentators, he highlights the best in current audio equipment on page 80.

Scott Manson Editor - 11 -

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M ESURE ET DÉMESURE *

TONDA QUATOR Rose gold Automatic movement Hermès alligator strap Made in Switzerland

* EXACT AND EXULTANT

www.parmigiani.ch

LONDON ARIJE | ASPREY | HARRODS YORK HARPERS CHELTENHAM BEARDS FOR FURTHER STOCKIST INFORMATION CONTACT 020 3355 7702

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PARMIGIANI • Tonda Quator • Format: 240x300 mm • Magazine: Tempus (GB) • Calitho 09-12-78321

- c o n t en ts -

Inside issue eleven

14 - Take Me There

80 - Clarity, Purity, Beauty

Head to the stunning Lake Taupo in New Zealand

A guide to the world’s best high-end hi-fi

17 - Luxury Briefing

87 - Your Bonus and How

25 - Food and Drink

Invest in classic cars, art, watches and much more

Because, it turns out, the best things in life aren’t free, after all

To Spend It

Where to eat, drink and be merry

99 - Me, myself & I

A conversation with fashion designer Angelo Galasso reveals the important things in life

29 - On the Scene

Ariel Adams reports from SIHH 31 - The Word

Guy Woodward on fine wine investment; Scott Manson on dining trends 36 - Object of Desire

102 - Desk Jockeys

74

All eyes are on Slyde

Exclusive adornments

106 - Build It and They

Will Come

41 - Meet the Bosi

CRN Yachts unveils its largest superyacht to date

Outspoken superchef Claude Bosi reveals all

108 - Temple of Va-Va-Voom

45 - Which Watch Suits You?

Cover: Arnold & Son, TE8 tourbillon

Fitness trainer Jon Denoris puts us through our paces

The story of Arnold & Son, one of Britain’s most historic watch brands

115 - Fringe Benefits

Our resident grooming expert reveals this year’s hippest haircuts

57 - Birth of a Legend

The fascinating genesis of the Swiss watchmaking industry

116 - Exclusive Inclusive

68 - New York’sFinest 74 - Gran Turismo

This season’s hottest travel accessories

An impressive stay at London’s Andaz hotel

111 - Mind Over Matter

50 - History Repeating

The rise and rise of Jacob & Co

105 - Quattro forte

The spotlight’s on the all-new Maserati four-door classic

38 - Through the Keyhole

Having trouble choosing your timepiece? Go with the flowchart

Our pick of the ultimate computer speakers

Special thanks: Charlotte Johnson @ThePressOffice Ben Smith

How all-inclusive resorts got their luxe on 122 - Live Fast

F1 legend Jo Siffert and his historic Heuer

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- ta k e m e t h er e -

Lake Taupo, the largest freshwater lake in Australasia, is one of the most beautiful places in New Zealand - not a country short on geographical eye candy. (Film fans may be familiar with the mountains, as they represented Mount Doom in The Lord of the Rings.)

The area’s stillness is set to be disturbed on 2 March, however, when competitors descend for the annual Ironman New Zealand triathlon. The athletes swim 2.4 miles across the warm, clean waters of the lake and bike 112 miles through the countryside before finishing ith a 26.2-mile marathon run. If this level of athletic insanity scares you rigid - it’s probably a little late to start training now why not join the thousands of spectators for the pre-, post- and mid-race parties in one of the world’s most spectacular settings.

tourismnewzealand.com

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108 New Bond Street, London, W1S 1EF Tel: 020 3372 0108 - www.frostoflondon.co.uk

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- lu x u ry b r i efi n g -

B ecau s e t h e b est t h i n g s i n li fe a r en't fr ee

Safe journey

- D ott li n g

Its bespoke safes being worthy of a far wider audience, Döttling has decided to take its skills outside with the world’s first range of high-security luxury luggage.

The Guardian provides protection for jewellery, cash and up to six watches in a multi-walled cylinder that defeats almost any attempt to crack it. Built into your choice of fabric or leather, it’s almost too beautiful to take your hands off - but just in case you get careless, there’s a GPS tracking device inside too.

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- lu x u ry b r i efi n g -

Shine here

- Ed elb erg

Crafted in Geneva, Edelberg writing instruments are beautifully designed, using materials such as carbon fibre, precious resin and photoluminescent components that shine in the dark. The brand’s Sloop pens, inspired by sailing boat hulls, are ergonomically designed to ensure perfectly fluid writing. Choose from a variety of finishes including PVD, pink gold or fine lacquers.

edelberg.ch

Golden threads

- Brioni

- Pat ek P h i li pp e

Brioni always produces beautifully highquality pieces, but its latest suit is just that extra cut above. Created from an exclusive fabric, the collection of limitededition three-piece suits feature 24-karat gold thread woven into the pinstripes, giving a subtle metallic sheen. Available in the Brunico silhouette, the suit looks sharp thanks to a high-notched, narrow lapel and higher-positioned buttons.

Patek Philippe is celebrating its long association with Tiffany & Co with a strictly limited new timepiece. The Annual Calendar – marking the fifth anniversary of the opening of the Patek Philippe boutique in Tiffany’s flagship New York store and the 161st year of their business relationship – is a wonderfully simple piece that is set to become an instant classic.

brioni.com

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Calendar event

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- lu x u ry b r i efi n g -

Take it to the bridge

- C o ru m

Corum’s Golden Bridge model has been a classic since it launched in 1980, and its latest limited edition, the Golden Bridge Panoramique, still has the characteristic open bridgework. An unfettered flying tourbillon, rose gold case and a limited edition of just ten pieces add to its exclusivity.

corum.ch

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- lu x u ry b r i efi n g -

Dial hard

- Li n d e W er d eli n The Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed Black Diamond is the perfect embodiment of this groundbreaking company’s work.

There simply isn’t anything like this watch on the market. This chronograph is constructed from a complex, fully skeletonised case with weight reduction technology, all of which has undergone diamond-like carbon (DLC) treatment for ultimate hardness. The appearance is softened by brilliant-cut black diamonds, while a mother of pearl dial ensures each piece has a shimmeringly different colour gradient.

lindewerdelin.com

Altitude slickness

- A lb i n at i A ero n au t i cs

Once you’ve flown private, you’ll never go back. Albinati Aeronautics operates a fleet of jets around the world and focuses on first-class service, guaranteeing total discretion and cutting up to 50% off the time of commercial air travel. Its fleet includes the Global 5000ER, with its intercontinental range and space for up to 14 passengers, plus smaller jets such as the Cessna Citation Jet2+

albinati.aero

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Domino collection • • • • •••• • • • ••• • • • ••• •• • • • • ••• ••• • • •• • • •••• •••• •• •• • ••• • • ••• • • •• •

www.robertodemeglio.it www.fattoamanoinitalia.it

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- fo o d & d r i n k -

Trends and news from the best bars and kitchens lutyens

It’s hard to imagine that, when faced with a sit down with a careers advisor who asks – “So, what do you want to be when you grow up?” – there are many teenagers who reply: “I want to be a sommelier, sir”. But I’m starting to think I’ve missed a trick there.

After careful analysis, I’ve concluded that it is the perfect profession. What a way to spend your time – searching the globe, learning about up and coming tastes and possible investments – all the while compiling a range of bottles to suit the most complex of menus. And few do this noble calling more justice than Romain Audrerie, head sommelier of Lutyens restaurant on London’s historic Fleet Street. The name, for the less architecturally–inclined among you, derives from the designer of the

Reviewed by Ross Trigg

handsome building itself, Sir Edward Lutyens, who built it in 1935.

The restaurant’s interior is similarly striking, with clean and minimalist lines given a classic French twist. It was a bitterly cold winter’s evening when we arrived so we headed straight for the cosy, welcoming environs of the bar.

The bar menu is, as you would expect, a little less expansive than that of the restaurant but by no means less impressive. We started with a charcuterie and cheese selection to accompany our journey into Romain’s world of wine. The passion and knowledge he brought to the subject transported us to those south facing slopes before we’d even taken a first sip.

An oenophile, then, but also a brilliant storyteller. A fabulous combination.

Alongside our delicious small plates of chicken liver and foie gras pate, ham hock and parsley and some smoky chorizo, we sampled numerous wines from around the globe. A heavenly Barbaresco from Italy and a very indulgent Xinomavro from Greece kicked off, before we made a quick pit stop in France and Portugal along the way. My favourite was a stunningly crisp Verdejo, Finca La Colina from Spain, which was the perfect foil for my main dish of slow roast middle white pork, lentils and salsa verde.

As you’d expect from an award-winning Terence Conran restaurant, this is a highly polished operation on every level and an absolute must-do for every wine connoisseur.

lutyens-restaurant.com

the restoration era

London’s famous Café Royal, a place where Oscar Wilde fell in love with Lord Alfred Douglas and where the Beatles, Elizabeth Taylor and Mick Jagger danced the night away, has reopened as a luxury hotel, member’s bar, champagne lounge, spa and restaurant. Located on Regent Street, the venue has seen its Louis XVI interior painstakingly restored, resulting in what are arguably some of the most ornate rooms in the capital. hotelcaferoyal.com - 25 -

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- fo o d & d r i n k -

Made in Britain

the goring Just a two-minute carriage ride from Buckingham Palace lies what is arguably the quintessential British hotel. The 103-year-old Goring has an illustrious history of hosting royalty, with Kate Middleton spending the night before her wedding here and various foreign kings and queens using it as their base when attending the current Queen’s coronation.

The hotel’s spacious dining room has much to admire, from its plush, Viscount Linley-designed interior to its stunning Swarovski chandeliers, luxurious table decor and Arthur Price cutlery. This is a place that virtually demands you cancel all plans and plot up for the evening.

With my father away on business, the lucky lady I invited to dine with me was my mother. Frankly, I couldn’t have picked a better place. The service from the army of waiters was perfectly judged, making us feel pampered without being overly-attentive, while the food was deceptively simple, relying on superb ingredients, rather than fussy cheffery.

We kicked off with oysters – plump, perfect things that sat proudly on a pile of ice shards, plus a beautiful lobster omelette. The latter was a revelation: tender, fresh and unlike any omelette I’d ever tasted. The main dishes were similarly sublime, including a steamed

Reviewed by Mark Jackson

There is something masochistic about being a red Burgundy lover. It’s not the paler, more feminine and intoxicating allure of pinot noir, but more when the Burgundians choose to ‘show’ the new vintage – the first week of January. Yes, before the head and gut can recover from December, along come the vignerons of the Cote de Nuits and Musigny with tempting new bottles. This year was the turn of the 2011 vintage, a year blighted by a small harvest. The good news, however, is that it is delicious.

by Peter Dean Three 2011s worthy of your attention

Richebourg, Domaine Gros Frere & Soeur

fillet of sea bass with carrot and rosemary purée in a watercress sauce.

My mother opted for the braised shoulder of venison with bacon, button onions and mushrooms. I was allowed a taste – a small one, mind you – and it was an umami-rich masterpiece fit for a queen.

The shared dessert kept things on the traditional tip, with apple tart and ice cream being the order of the day. Light flaky pastry formed a backdrop for sweet, glazed apples and an ice cream that, frankly, I would have kept for myself had I not been treating my mother.

The Goring recently received a royal warrant, which means that it is a ‘preferred choice’ for the Queen.

On the strength of this visit, it also receives our, admittedly less regal, seal of approval too.

thegoring.com

The wood may be much in evidence, particularly on the long finish, but that will disappear in time. There is lots of fresh fruit, but also a good depth of flavour and a backbone of minerality that will keep it young for 20 years or more.

£1,019, 6x75cl - frw.co.uk

Vosne Romanée, Les Suchots 1er Cru, Sylvain Cathiard

Showing the richness and silkiness that one comes to expect of Vosne Romanée, this is seduction on the tongue with swirls of red fruit and hints of fresh-cut flower.

A sophisticated Burgundy by one of its finest exponents.

£616, 6x75cl - flintwines.com

Echezeaux, Grand Cru, Jean Grivot

Grivot has a good track record in the investment market and the only way is up value-wise for this blockbuster, provided you can lay your hands on some. It’s as complex as you would expect with a full, long hit of rich fruit, nicely balanced by a creamy minerality. Grivot picks early to retain a freshness that will allow this to show graceful age for at least two decades.

£750, 6x75cl - howardripley.com

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108 New Bond Street, London, W1S 1EF - Tel: 020 3372 0108 - www.frostoflondon.co.uk

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- sihh -

The best of the best Renowned watch blogger Ariel Adams reports from SIHH, one of the industry’s most exclusive shows SIHH is no mere trade show. Rather, it is a coming together of the world’s top dogs of luxury, and a place to be seen as much as it is to do business.

2013 marks my fourth pilgrimage in the depths of Geneva’s winter to see the novelties and meet privately with the heads of some of my favorite brands for a hands-on look at what watch lovers will lust for this year.

The best and brightest watches debuting this year at the show are remarkably exclusive and high-priced in their nature. Some of the top pieces on show were the A Lange & Söhne Grand Complication, the IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar Digital

Date-Month, and the Roger Dubuis Excaliber Quatuor.

With the A Lange & Söhne Grand Complication, it was nice to see the portfolio of this venerable manufacture finally completed with the inclusion of a minute repeater in a watch that is truly a masterpiece.

For IWC, 2013 marks the ‘Year of the Ingenieur’ and for that, the new Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month updates the classic lines of the Ingenieur, putting fresh energy into this top-end model.

With a more fantasy-based execution, the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Quatuor is an excellent showcase of how the

brand understands what collectors want – something crafted by an extreme imagination. The watch is about excitement and wonder – as exemplified by the brand’s booth, which featured a giant eagle with the new watch encased in a glass ball held by its talons. The permanent huddle of picture-snapping visitors around it was testament to its magnificence.

The Baume and Mercier Clifton Complete Calendar with moonphase also caught my eye. This model is certain to become popular with its good looks and fantastic features, and all for a sub-£4,000 price tag.

L eaving SIHH 2013, I am tremendously excited about 2014. We’re promised a heap of fresh watches over the next few years that, encouragingly for European collectors, will be designed very much for western, as opposed to eastern, tastes.

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108 New Bond Street London, W1S 1EF www.frostoflondon.co.uk

E P I C C OL L E CT I ON Five Time Zones Black PVD 48 Baguette Cut Blue Topaz Automatic Movement

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- t h e wo r d -

Guy Woodward

T h e r i s e a n d fa l l of wine investment Guy Woodward is the editor of Food and Travel magazine, and a former editor of Decanter magazine.

That fine wine has become the preserve of trophy hunters and investors is a source of much regret to wine purists. After spending ten years editing Decanter magazine, I count myself among the latter’s number, for I too have become disillusioned by the tawdry profiteering that pervades wine’s upper echelons.

There has always been a chance to make money from investing in wine – and there’s no harm in that. Wine-loving doctors, lawyers or accountants would buy two cases of classed growth claret, and, over the course of a decade, drink one and later sell the other, hoping to recoup as much of their original outlay as possible. The ‘investment’ was a bit of fun, allied to some serious pleasure. Now, though, instead of being viewed as a sophisticated, civilised arena, the fine wine marketplace has become a vulgar, unedifying place peopled by charlatans and cowboys.

The reason? Greed. If we focus on Bordeaux, the epicentre of investment-grade wine, the transformation can be traced back to 2005.

A fine vintage saw the top chateaux take the opportunity to raise (in some cases by 100%) their prices. In a bull market (remember those days?) consumers swallowed the hikes, and prices rose further on the secondary market. The top producers, irked by seeing middlemen rake in profits they thought should be theirs, upped their prices again in subsequent, lesser-quality vintages. And while the traditional European and US customer base baulked as the recession bit, the world’s megarich, along with the emerging, status-symbol-obsessed middle-class of Asia, lapped up the big names.

Top wines, already beyond the reach of their traditional buyers, were seeing 100% price rises just two or three years after their release.

And with new, often uninitiated customers drawn into the market, so new companies – often with few or no credentials in the sector – emerged from the shadows to cater for them. In-depth knowledge wasn’t necessary, for buyer or seller. Merchants didn’t talk about wines’ qualities or nuances, they just touted them on the back of a high score from the hugely influential Robert Parker, the US critic courted by the top chateaux, several of whom made wines to suit his palate. A score of 98, 99 or 100 Parker points was seen as a guarantee of a wine’s future performance. Because the wines were sold – purely as investment tools – en primeur (while they are still in barrel, and two years before bottling and shipping) – unscrupulous merchants had plenty of time to up sticks and disappear before customers smelled a rat.

The hallowed environs of wine’s bluechip aristocrats have also been hit. After the resale value of certain wines rocketed, so counterfeiting became a concern. UK and US auction houses were exposed as having (knowingly or otherwise) sold fakes for huge sums – as prices went through the roof, their reputation went through the floor.

The last few years have finally seen prices fall. As consumer confidence has plummeted, the prices of top wines from both the 2009 and 2010 vintages – both exceptional years – have followed suit, leaving buyers of much-trumpeted wines with negative vinous equity.

The counterfeit-plagued auction market suffered too – in 2012, total revenue from auction sales fell nearly 20%.

It was the greed of the top producers that allowed this to happen.

By opening themselves up to a new clientele, and pandering to a new customer base (the Bordelais, in particular, made an unseemly beeline for China), high-end producers left themselves at the mercy of fly-by-nights. Now, the chickens are coming home to roost.

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- t h e wo r d -

Scott Manson

t h e ta s t e m a k e r s o f 2 0 1 3 To paraphrase Ferris Bueller, dining trends move pretty fast, and sometimes you need to stop and look around a while. In 2012, hip gastronomic happenings seemed to evolve faster than ever. One minute, pop-up burger joints are selling sliders (mini burgers to the uninitiated) and the next you see them on sale at Waitrose. So, for those epicureans keen to keep ahead of the curve, I thought I’d share my predictions for what will be hot among hip foodie types this year.

Look out for kimchi, Korean fermented cabbage, which is fast becoming a favourite topping at high-end burger and meat restaurants, such as Hawksmoor in London. Similarly, the delicious dish that is French dip is also proving popular, comprising roast beef sandwich with melted Swiss cheese and pot of gravy for dunking. Think gourmet comfort food at its best.

On a more exotic tip, we can expect to see last year’s trend for Peruvian cuisine continue. The South American dish of ceviche – a sort of fish carpaccio – uses raw seafood cooked in a marinade of ‘tiger’s milk’ (a mix of chili, lime and salt), providing a clean and delicious protein hit to health-conscious diners. Arguably less healthy, but no less delicious, is baozi, a steamed Chinese savoury donut packed with spicy fillings such as barbecue char siu pork. Look out for these at some of London’s better Oriental diners soon.

We can also expect to see coconut oil, with its many health benefits, being dubbed the new extra virgin olive oil. Indeed, there could well be a bit of a backlash against unhealthy, fat-saturated foods, as chefs embrace the use of seeds and grains such as quinoa, millet, buckwheat and barley.

Vegetarians are also in for a treat in 2013, as vegetables take pride of place, rather than playing second fiddle, on lots of menus. Bruno Loubet is planning a vegetarian restaurant in the capital, and more and more chefs are doing vegetarian tasting menus – from Phil Howard to Simon Rogan to Brett Graham.

Londoners can finally return to the former tourist haunt that is Covent Garden, as the area is slowly regaining its fashionable edge. It started with the opening of the Apple store there a few years back, and the ousting of several of the second-rate street entertainers. Now two New York imports, restaurant king Keith McNally with his Balthazar restaurant and Danny Meyer with his Shake Shack diner, look set to cement the area’s revival as a truly hip location.

And finally, what of the fine dining scene? With reports of quiet rooms at some of London’s most famous temples of gastronomy, it’s clear that some of the shine has come off previously untouchable institutions. Expect a more casual vibe at many of the capital’s most famous restaurants, as those in charge look to attract a younger clientele.

Whatever happens this year, Londoners can remain confident that they live in one of the world’s greatest cities for dining. Bon appetit!

Scott Manson is the editor of Tempus magazine

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- o bj ects o f d es i r e -

Slyde The Slyde is the brainchild of Jorg Hysek, a timepiece pioneer who honed his craft at Rolex in the 70s, before launching signature watches for the likes of Cartier, Vacheron Constantin and Breguet. Inside, the Slyde has all the mechanical intricacies of traditional Swiss watchmaking but the exterior is sharply futuristic. Thanks to an incredible variety of virtual dials, the wearer can completely customise the touchscreen to their own preference, whether that’s a digital movement or animated virtual 3D mechanism. Impressive complications, including a tourbillion, world time zones and a beautiful moon phase tracker, explain why this ‘virtual mechanical’ watch has rapidly garnered worldwide acclaim.

frostoflondon.co.uk

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- fas h i o n & ac c ess o r i es -

frostoflondon.co.uk

01

Through the keyhole A glimpse at the latest alluring luxuries from Frost of London - 38 -

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04/02/2013 10:43

02

03

01 Theo Fennell

At first glance, these luxurious 18-carat white gold and diamond keyhole swivel cufflinks are serious jewellery. Look closer though, and you’ll spot the cheeky twist.

A classic Theo Fennell piece.

£11,500

02 Jacob & Co

This is a great piece from the Jacob & Co vintage collection. The magnificent rose-cut pear shape diamond, complemented by the rose-cut round diamonds, makes for a wonderfully simple silhouette.

POA

03 Borgioni

Men’s jewellery is definitely having a moment. To work the trend successfully, pieces need to be bold and worn with confidence. This striking Borgioni 14-carat black agate brushed green gold men’s ring fits the bill perfectly and will make a powerful statement.

£1,200

04 Bedat & Co

04

Bedat & Co always produces elegant timepieces. The diamond border on this No 3 ladies’ watch gives a shimmering touch of luxe.

£14,500

05 Jason of Beverly Hills

These beautiful diamond chandelier earrings may not be subtle, but they are truly exquisite pieces and a perfect Valentine’s Day gift.

POA

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05

04/02/2013 10:44

108 New Bond Street, London, W1S 1EF - Tel: 020 3372 0108 - www.frostoflondon.co.uk

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31/01/2013 17:09

- g o o d t i m es -

Words – Hannah Silver

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- g o o d t i m es -

m ee t t h e b o s i Controversial chef Claude Bosi holds two Michelin stars at his restaurant Hibiscus in Mayfair. He spent much of his extensive restaurant career in France before moving to England in 1997, where alongside his brother Cedric he now runs Hibiscus and Wimbledon gastropub Fox and Grapes. He is an ambassador for watch brand Blancpain

How long have you been in the restaurant business?

I’ve been doing this for 25 years. Once I decided to be a chef I never turned back – well, I tried once, but my dad didn’t let me. He said you choose it, you do it.

Where did you learn your trade?

I worked at a few restaurants in France but I learned the most at L’Arpège in Paris, and then from Alain Ducasse. He taught me discipline. He was a very interesting person.

What drives you?

The need to have a busy restaurant. To keep it busy you need consistency, and you need to make sure you have the right market. We need to be the best we can be.

How important are Michelin stars to you?

They’re a massive part of it. They keep the restaurant busy. I don’t find it stressful holding on to them. When the inspectors come, they come; you just have to keep doing what you do. Like any job, you have to make sure you put in the same Monday to Saturday. One of the hardest things for my staff to understand is that even if you’re tired, you’ve got a headache or a personal problem, the customers don’t care. They pay the same price every time. We don’t take any prisoners in our kitchen – if you don’t like it, go somewhere else.

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Who do you see as your competition?

The other Michelin-star places are all of a very good standard, and all different. Maybe it’s French arrogance, but I really don’t see anyone as competition. I believe in what I do and I stick to it.

How has the financial crisis affected you?

It’s been tough. Another bank in New York has just gone bust so if we manage to get through this, we’ll be fine. While you’ll always have people with money, what we have lost a bit is the lunch trade. Increasingly, for the business lunch, people now have to put their hand in their own pocket.

What’s the worst thing you’ve read about yourself ?

Where do I start? The last time I got in trouble was because I said French people are lazy and they don’t work. Sometimes I’ll be sarcastic and then when you see it in print, the original tone doesn’t come across.

Okay, I could have said some things in a better way but I never regret what I say or do.

You’re working with Blancpain this year.

How did that come about?

There is a natural link between watches and cooking, especially around the incredible amount of detail that goes into each piece. It’s all in the craftsmanship and quest for perfection. My 500 Fathoms watch is robust enough to wear every day in the kitchen, which is what you want from your timepiece.

Do you prefer London to your home town, Lyon?

I love London: the traffic jams, the feeling you can do anything any time. I’ve got a fantastic flat in Clapham Common which I love. I lived in the country for 10 years, where everyone knows your life and everything you’re doing – ‘Oh, you’ve got loads of shopping - where have you been?’ F*** off ! I don’t know my neighbours here.

What’s your weakness?

I’m too nice. No, really, I’ve got a list – you don’t have time to hear it.

My girlfriends used to dump me and just give me the list.

What’s your greatest achievement?

My daughter. She’s seven – she kicks my arse every time I see her. There are plenty of great chefs in this world, but I’d rather be remembered as a great dad.

blancpain.com hibiscusrestaurant.co.uk

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Turbine XS, A2044/1 Double Rotor Technology

Made by movement

www.perrelet.com

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108 New Bond Street, London, W1S 1EF Tel: 020 3372 0108 www.frostoflondon.co.uk

20/12/2012 15:01

- wo r d s -

Pete Cashmore

Which

- wat c h suits

yo u?

Then why are you even reading this feature?

G o o n , b e o f f w i t h yo u e l s e w h e r e . Pa g e 8 0 i s w o rt h a l o o k - i t ' s a l l about high-end audio equipment.

A vital question, we think you’ll agree.

High-pressure. Allow our flowchart to take the decision-making strain

D o y o u a c t u a l ly w a n t t o b u y a n e w w a t c h ?

no yo u a r e r ea d i n g t h e w ro n g m agaz i n e

2

yes this way p leas e sir

JUST SOMETHING THAT TELLS THE TIME

D o yo u bas i ca lly j u st wa n t s o m e t h i n g t h at yo u ca n lo o k at a n d i t w i l l t ell yo u t h e t i m e, o r d o yo u r e q u i r e s o m e t h i n g a li t t le m o r e s p ec i a l ?

I have very specific timepiece needs

3

G i v en t h at a ll o f t h e wat c h e s i n t h i s f e at u r e a r e h i g h ly i m p r es s i v e, w h i c h g en d e r a r e yo u m o r e i n t e r e st e d i n i m p r e ss i n g ?

I would like to impress my male friends and ensure that I have a better watch with more bells and whistles than they do – go to 5

045_Watch Flow Chart.indd 45

I would like to impress a female or females with my taste and fondness for fancy things – go to 4

04/02/2013 10:52

4

5

W h at k i n d o f la d i es d o yo u n o r m a lly as s o c i at e w i t h?

Very, very fancy ladies who are bewitched by shiny things such as diamonds and the like

w h at a r e yo u r f r i e n d s i n t o ?

T H E TY P I CA L A LP H A M A LE ST U FF - S PO RT A N D CA RS A N D S KY D I V I N G A N D SW I M M I N G W I T H S H A R Ks

Down-to-earth ladies who value understatement over glitz and flash

T H E TY P I CA L T EC H Y M A LE ST U FF - GA D G ETS AND GIZMOS AND TOAST ERS T H AT YO U CA N O P ER AT E V I A W I FI

I s m o n e y a fa c t o r ?

- y es -

Well, in that case, you may as well push the boat out.

Way out. Which means something from Jacob & Co, unofficial timepiece providers to some of the hip-hop community’s most moneyed members.

How about a piece from the brand’s Royal range, like this diamondstudded number?

We are sensing that your chums are sporty in nature, and also partial to a fast car or two. Mainly because you just told us.

So it’s likely that they, and indeed you, would be somewhat enamoured with the JaegerLecoultre Amvox5 World Chronograph Racing. The collection is inspired by the contours and colours of Aston Martin’s Le Mans prototypes, offering you the cachet of one of the world’s greatest motor marques for a fraction of the cost of a car.

So basically you hang out with a bunch of nerds?

Only kidding, we’re sure they’re lovely.

And they will geek out big time when you whip up your sleeve to reveal a Christophe Claret Baccara, which in addition to being a watch, is also home to a miniature casino. Yes, you read that correctly.

You can play baccarat, roulette and dice, and even shuffle the cards via the pusher located at 9 o’ clock.

Congratulations, you have excellent taste and so we are happy to recommend to you the Patek Philippe Chronometro Gondolo, coming straight out of Geneva with a blast of understated Swiss cool.

It’s a classic with its origins dating back to the early 20th century, which means that if you run out of conversation with this young lady we’ve been talking about, you can just tell her the story of your watch and its curious popularity in Brazil.

- no -

What you need is a slice of utilitarian chic, courtesy of Nomos Glashutte. Renowned worldwide for its elegantly stark and unaffected aesthetic, and offering its own in-house calibers, the iconic Tangente model is an excellent choice at just £1,200.

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04/02/2013 10:52

www.frostoflondon.co.uk - 108 New Bond Street, London, W1S 1EF - Tel: 020 3372 0108

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31/01/2013 10:59

History

050-054_Arnold&Son.indd 50

repeating

04/02/2013 10:57

- a r n o ld & s o n -

Words – Scott Manson

A brand steeped in Britain's maritime glories has quietly sailed into the world's watchmaking elite. As Arnold & Son's current custodian attests, it's about respecting your origins

Everyone who wears a watch owes a debt of thanks to John Arnold, the founder of Arnold & Son. Born in Cornwall in 1736, this English watchmaker was a true ‘father of time’ and one of the first inventors to design a watch that was both practical and accurate.

His story starts as a young apprentice, working in his father’s clock-making business.

However, like many strong-willed young men, he had an argument with his father and left home. His travels took him to The Hague where he worked as a watchmaker for two years before returning to Britain, eventually setting himself up in business in London’s Strand.

As news of his technical prowess spread, commissions from notable Londoners poured in and Arnold soon became one of the watchmakers of choice for King George III. This cemented his reputation as an ingenious and original craftsman and led to Arnold being approached by the astronomer royal, Neville Maskelyne, with a view to making a lowercost replica of John Harrison’s revolutionary marine timekeeper that solved the problem of calculating the longitude of ships at sea.

Arnold then went on to invent a number of timepieces that were used on many Royal Navy ships, and his pieces sailed to every corner of the world, including on vessels helmed by Captain James Cook, George Vancouver and Constantine Phipps.

Arnold was also a good friend of the leading watchmaker of his day, Abraham-Louis Breguet, allowing Breguet to incorporate

many of Arnold’s designs into his own work.

Between them, it’s fair to say that they can claim to have largely invented the modern mechanical watch.

Flash forward to the present day and the Arnold & Son brand, over 200 years on, still represents some of the best in British watchmaking. Granted, it’s been Swiss-owned since 1995 – manufactured in the Neuchâtel region, the heart of Swiss watchmaking – but it remains true to Arnold’s original aesthetic of high-quality, classic timepieces.

Company CEO Philippe Boven, whose CV includes senior roles at Vacheron Constantin and DeWitt, says the design brief is to always

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Previous page: an 18th-century portrait of company founder John Arnold and his family. Below left: CEO Philippe Boven

produce something definitively British. “John Arnold was a genius, and we owe it to him to produce elegant, high-end pieces,” he says.

For proof, look no further than the brand’s beautifully understated HMS1, a 40mm piece with an 80-hour power reserve which recently picked up the best classical watch title at the Arabian Watch and Jewellery magazine’s awards.

“That was a very nice surprise,” says Boven.

“We were up against some stiff competition.

It’s rewarding to know that we are slowly being spoken of in the same breath as hugely impressive brands such as Breguet, Vacheron Constantin and Patek.”

The John Arnold connection continues with the brand’s True Beat 88, a £40,000 piece whose name references a complication that measures out time in complete seconds, rather than fractions, with a jerking motion that’s in homage to original marine chronometers. It is, frankly, an openworked masterpiece.

“The TB88 Tourbillon is finished in what we term the English style,” says Boven, “And shows many of its technical aspects on the dial side, unlike other brands which often hide them on the reverse. It’s a wonderful piece.”

The TE8 Tourbillon, the brand’s most expensive watch, is a similarly nautically inspired piece, with its distinctive three-quarter wave form cut out on the barrel bridge. Other fine pieces include a GMT model – the DBG – and a TBR with a True Beat Second and a date retrograde.

And while he won’t be drawn on production numbers or celebrity buyers – “we consider all

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- a r n o ld & s o n -

frostoflondon.co.uk

“A pocket watch makes you see time in a different way. You take it out, hold it, put it back. It's French cuisine as opposed to fast food �

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- a r n o ld & s o n -

frostoflondon.co.uk

“It's ironic, but I think the watch industry moves too fast. Perhaps we should all slow down and admire what we have from time to time”

of our customers brand ambassadors” – Boven points to London, Hong Kong, Dubai and the US as being particularly fertile territory for watch sales.

The upcoming Baselworld event in April will also see Arnold & Son unveil the world’s thinnest tourbillon watch, along with a new selection of classic and traditionally styled luxury timepieces.

“It’s ironic, but I think the watch industry actually moves too fast,” Boven says. “It should be a philosophy, not a business. I still have a Vacheron pocket watch which I use on occasion. It makes you see time in a different way, if that makes sense. You take it out, you hold it, you put it back – it’s a much more leisurely way of telling the time than simply glancing at a watch. It’s French cuisine, as opposed to fast food. Perhaps we should all slow down and admire what we have from time to time.”

John Arnold – your legacy is in safe hands.

arnoldandson.com

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12/12/2012 11:43

108 New Bond Street | London W1S 1EF | www.frostoflondon.co.uk 000_Ad.indd 1

10/12/2012 10:28

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7 p5

W or ds :A le xD oa k

Bi a rt le h ge of nd

- sw i ss m a d e -

04/02/2013 11:09

- sw i ss m a d e -

Illustration – Kate Evans

That ‘Swiss Made’ dial marking might be reassuring, but haven’t you ever wondered where exactly your watch hails from? Usually perched on a rolling hillside, set to a soundtrack of clanking cow bells (no, really), the factories dotted along the Jura mountain range form a unique geography of cottage industries, quite unlike anywhere else in the world.

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– Who lives where

057-066_SwissIndustry.indd 59

Geneva FP Journe Chopard Roger Dubuis Cartier Haute Horlogerie

Vallee de Joux Audemars Piguet JaegerLeCoultre Blancpain Breguet

Plans les Ouates Vacheron Constantin Rolex Frederique Constant Piaget Patek Philippe

Fleurier Bovet Chopard LUC Parmigiani Fleurier

Neuchatel Jura GirardPerregaux Richard Mille Longines Ulysse Nardin Montblanc Tissot Zenith Cartier TAG Heuer Breitling Panerai Corum Maurice Lacroix Arnold & Son Graham

Biel Omega Rolex Perrelet other Piaget Hublot IWC

04/02/2013 11:09

PLAN-LES-WATCHES

– The world’s most luxurious industrial estate

Just southwest of Geneva’s city centre, a high-end industrial park near the sleepy suburb of Plans-les-Ouates has become gradually populated by high-tech, purpose-built überfactories belonging to some of Switzerland’s top brands.

Most significantly, Plan-les-Ouates is home to Patek Philippe’s principal factory on Chemin du Pont-du-Centenaire, fronted by their famous spiral sculpture. Next door, there’s Rolex’s mammoth 11-storey building, which covers the area of five football pitches yet solely focuses on manufacture of cases and bracelets, operating its own on-site gold foundry (movement making is now fully integrated at another new, state-of-the-art site in Bienne). On the western edge of the park you’ll find, within walking distance of each other, Vacheron Constantin’s incredible ‘folded steel’ building, Piaget’s jewellery, haute horlogerie and casemaking facility and Frédérique Constant’s manufacture.

TICKING A LO N G 1541

Fiery preacher and French exile John Calvin makes Geneva the base for shaping the Reformation. He bans the wearing and making of crucifixes and jewellery, forcing local goldsmiths and other jewellers to turn into a new, independent craft: watchmaking.

057-066_SwissIndustry.indd 60

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- sw i ss m a d e -

ith a creak and a clatter, the dairy farmer from Le Brassus slams shut his barn door and pauses to catch his breath. It’s only October, but there’s already a sharp chill in the air, with the smudged grey clouds over the Jura peaks threatening snow earlier than he can remember. It’s been a rush to bring his cattle down in time.

But despite the brutally early mornings, the Joux valley’s punishing slopes and the duty he must pay to his family’s proud trade, this particular cattle farmer is relieved that summer has been short. Tomorrow, he turns his hands to a very different occupation – one that could prove to be his making after all. Beginning the trudge back from the barn in the half-light, he fixes his eyes on the orange glow that flickers from his chalet window. Inside, silhouetted in crisp relief, is the ornate outline of his precision lathe, ready for another winter’s painstaking but lucrative toil. Tomorrow, as the first flakes fall, the cattle farmer will sit at his workbench and become a watchmaker once again.

It may seem unlikely that a hardy agricultural worker could turn his hands to such delicate craftsmanship, but back then, in the middle

of the 18th century, it was the only way to survive. Radiating north-east from Geneva, the rolling topography beneath the Jura mountain range makes for ideal pastures, but come the winter snow, every village and hamlet is cut off, leaving farmers with few means of supplementing their income. For many years,

In the winter, every village and hamlet was cut off, leaving farmers with few means of income metalwork and carpentry were the solution for the inhabitants of the Vallée de Joux, until 1705’s blessing in disguise: a forest fire that decimated the local supply of wood. A few enterprising sorts therefore turned to producing parts for the nascent watchmaking industry of nearby Geneva.

That there was an industry at all down in Switzerland’s second city was a blessing in itself;

T h e r i s e a n d r i s e o f t h e S w i s s wat c h i n d u s t ry 1601

The Watchmakers’ Guild of Geneva, the first to be established anywhere, is formed.

1681

A young goldsmith called Daniel JeanRichard (16651741) creates his first watch and introduces the division of labour to Jura watchmaking.

1685

Henry IV’s Edict of Nantes of 1598, which granted French Protestants rights in Catholic France, revoked

by Louis XIV. Exodus of 400,000 Huguenots, including many skilled watchmakers, to Britain and Switzerland.

France’s decline as a clock- and watchmaker commences.

1705

A forest fire in the Vallée de Joux destroys farmers’ carpentry resources.

To survive during the winter they turn to watchmaking, using French technology.

1705

Pupils of JeanRichard, the Brandt brothers introduce watchmaking to La Chaux-de-Fonds.

Local iron and brass workers diversify immediately and the city booms with jobseeking immigrants.

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- sw i ss m a d e -

a chance collision of factors chiefly driven – as history so often shows – by religious fervour.

John Calvin had made Geneva the base for his fiery, puritanical preaching during the Protestant Reformation, and banned the local jewellers from making their decadent wares in 1541. Clock- and watchmaking was the obvious alternative. By the end of the 16th century, Genevoise watches were already reputable for their high quality, and the craftsmen created in 1601 the Watchmakers’ Guild of Geneva, the first to be established anywhere.

For the majority of the 16th and 17th centuries, it was France that led the world in horology, but 1685 saw the tables turn completely. Louis XIV revoked the Edict of Nantes, which Henry IV had granted to ease the fortunes of Calvinist Protestants in Catholic France, which had hugely damaging results. An exodus of over 400,000 Huguenots deprived France of many skilled workers, with most of the clock and watchmakers disappearing over the border into Switzerland, where the burgeoning industry was ripe for French knowhow and new technology.

The Swiss workers also benefitted. “From the 1740s to the early 1800s,” explains Michel

1770

Abraham-Louis Perrelet creates the perpetual watch, the forerunner of the modern selfwinding watch.

Golay, who runs the Audemars Piguet Museum in Le Brassus, “the watchmakers in the Joux region walked to Geneva every spring to sell the movements they’d made over the winter to the cabinottiers and établisseurs, who finished the movements and cased them up as complete, branded watches.

‘The hill farmers realised that more money could be made if they put their own names on the dials’ “But soon enough,” he continues, “the hill farmers realised that more money could be made if they put their own names on the dials.

So many of them stopped farming altogether and began making watches all year. Families throughout the valley co-operated, and gradually the quality of the craftsmanship increased, as did their reputation.”

As Lucien Trueb attests in his book The

1790

Geneva is already exporting more than

1842

Pendant-winding watches invented

by Adrien Philippe, one of the founders of Patek Philippe. At the same time began the production of complicated watches and the introduction of special features such as the perpetual calendar, the fly-back hand and chronographs.

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Tel : +49 30 33935505

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04/02/2013 10:26

- sw i ss m a d e -

1865

Georges Favre-Jaquot (1843-1917) begins manufacturing watches in Le Locle, using pioneering American industrial methods, buying precision machinery for autonomous large-scale production of interchangeable parts. His company would later be known as Zenith.

World of Watches, “There is no question that Geneva was the cradle of the Swiss watch industry… [but it] was so successful that parts production and movement assembly had in large measure to be outsourced; by doing so.

Geneva helped set up the watch industry in the Vallée de Joux and in neighbouring France, the region of Savoy. And inevitably, the vendors soon turned into competitors.”

It was thus that Switzerland’s famed cottage industry – or should that be chalet industry? – arose. A clear, horizontal division of labour (blank movement making, finishing, assembly, casing up) soon made quality control more manageable and brought prices down. Meanwhile, the French persisted in manufacturing everything beneath one roof, to their detriment. Only one Frenchman, Paris’s forefather of modern horology, Abraham-Louis Breguet, had the forethought to adapt his way of working to the Swiss model. If he hadn’t, we wouldn’t have such innovations as the tourbillon or minute repeater today.

The Vallée de Joux became a hotspot for complicated movement making. And in the best of Swiss tradition, it still is. As well as Audemars and Jaeger-LeCoultre down the road on the

shores of Lac Joux, Breguet and Blancpain have now established themselves in the valley since their revival by Swatch Group, taking over the Lémania and Frédéric Piguet factories respectively. “Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin have even established technical facilities in the valley too,” says Golay, “to take

1900

1931

watch es expo rted

1910

watch es expo rted

‘Geneva’s success meant production was outsourced, helping to set up the industry in the Vallée de Joux’ advantage of the local, skilled workforce.”

But take the winding road north-east through Vallorbe and you’ll soon find yourself in the ticking heart of Swiss watchmaking.

Colloquially known as Watch Valley, the rolling, verdant foothills of the Neuchâtel canton are home to La Chaux-de-Fonds and Le Locle.

Here, high-end watchmaking has been we truly industrialised, thanks to the early efforts of

The Great Depression leads to the loss of 20,000 jobs. The ASUAG holding cartel is formed to save principal companies, including the huge movement-maker Ebauches SA.

1932

Newly formed SSIH group merges Blancpain, Omega and Tissot.

1938

ASUAG turns its first profit.

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- sw i ss m a d e -

Daniel JeanRichard – the Jura’s 18th-century forward-thinking pioneer.

“Boom times arrived when watchmaking was introduced in 1705 by Jacob and Isaac Brandt,” says Trueb, “who had learned the trade as pupils of JeanRichard in nearby La Sagne.

The iron and brass workers in La Chaux-deFonds immediately realised that watches were an ideal product for them to diversify into.”

Their town grew fast because of a constant influx of job-seeking French immigrants and young Genevoise entrepreneurs, who had no choice but to establish their new companies in the mountains thanks to the restrictive rules of the Geneva guilds. By the end of the 18th century, the population of La Chaux-de-Fonds had reached 3,000.

Another devastating fire in 1794 proved to be another blessing in disguise for the Jura industry.

“The ramshackle and insanitary congregation of mostly wooden buildings was replaced by rows of stone houses along arrow-straight streets intersecting each other at right angles,” Trueb writes. “The phenomenal development of the watch industry led to a mushrooming of production facilities: by 1900, the town’s population had reached 37,000.”

Thanks to the chocolate-box-pretty but ultimately unforgiving geography of their surroundings, the resourcefulness and ingenuity of Switzerland’s mountain dwellers means they’ve weathered all manner of setbacks, from the Great Depression to the quartz crisis of the 1970s when the number of employees fell from

1967

1983

The Centre Electronique Horloger (CEH) in Neuchâtel develops the world’s first quartz wristwatch – the famous Beta 21.

Their ingenuity has enabled them to weather setbacks from the Great Depression to the quartz crisis some 90,000 in 1970 to a little over 30,000 in 1984.

Despite – or thanks to – everything it has had to go through, the Swiss watchmaking industry has always been in a position to answer the many technological, economical and structural challenges it has been confronted with. And that’s why they’ve remained at the top – in terms of sales as well as altitude.

Quartz crisis reaches its peak, with cheap Japanese technology bringing the Swiss industry to its knees. ASUAG and SSIH merged to form SMH, launching a cheap, plastic watch that would save the industry: the Swatch. Ebauches SA become ETA, which now makes 80% of Swiss movements.

1998

SMH renamed Swatch Group.

2011

a r eco r d

watch es expo rted

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N ew Yo r k's

A classic Big Apple fairytale, Jacob Arabo arrived in the US as a teenager with a glittering dream. Quarter of a century later, Jacob & Co is one of the towering presences in jewellery design

04/02/2013 12:17

- jac o b & c o -

fi n est

Words – Hannah Silver

Jacob Arabo is a truly legendary figure in jewellery. A celebrated craftsman and creator of exquisite pieces, it’s no exaggeration to say his level of renown is now close to that of the A-list stars who wear his creations for their red carpet moments.

With the respect he commands, it's easy to forget he was once a wide-eyed teenager who had just moved to the US from Uzbekistan.

A daunting prospect for some but, for Arabo, it was an easy transition.

"The incredibly fast pace of life in the US is somewhat overwhelming, but as a teenager you are swept up quickly and adapt," he says.

"It made me want to strive for future success and realise all the possibilities around me."

This teenager was already burning with

ambition, but Arabo's future was sealed when he saw his mother put on a beautiful necklace.

"I was captivated," he remembers. "I studied it, I wanted to know how it was made. It was like art to me."

From there, a jewellery design course was followed by a job at a small jeweller's shop before Jacob left to set up his own business.

His glittering designs soon caught the eye of New York’s musicians, with an increasing number of cutting-edge hip-hop artists seeking him out, and sharing his number among friends. ‘Jacob the Jeweller’ was born.

"It was so many years ago - almost a lifetime ago," Arabo says. "They started to say, 'If you need anything just call our friend Jacob the Jeweller and you'll get the best.'"

Jacob & Co is now a quarter of a century old and still producing edgy pieces that split

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- jac o b & c o -

“Men now have the conf idence to wear big and bold pieces and know it looks good ”

opinion but could never be described as dull.

One of his favourite pieces, and one of the most recognisable, is the Five Time Zone watch.

"I travel and hit different time zones so often that I thought it would be really cool to have a watch with different time zones in one," he says. "I wanted something that celebrated such a full lifestyle so I came up with the coloured dial and diamonds."

This bright, exuberant approach is also showcased in the Jacob & Co jewellery range.

The men's line is given an edge with black diamonds and skulls, cufflinks are set with flawless bright stones such as fancy yellow diamonds and green agate, while his favourite piece is an internally flawless and extremely rare fancy blue diamond ring flanked by two natural purple-pink diamonds.

"I just really enjoy working with colours,"

Arabo says. "It makes a statement, you can't help but notice it and it makes you feel good."

Over the years, he's noticed a change in men's attitudes towards his style of ostentatious jewellery. "It's become much more acceptable.

Men have the confidence to wear big and bold pieces and know it will look good."

Of course, devising eye-catching new creations for the rich and famous isn't all hard graft. Memorable moments stud Jacob’s career like diamonds on a luxury watch. "Probably my most glamorous night was in 2004 when I started to grow the brand in Europe," Arabo says. "I turned up at the enormous launch party and was whisked to the VIP area with Bono and Flavio Briatore - it was surreal."

From then, his star burned brighter still.

Madonna, David Beckham and Tom Cruise all wear his watches, while Jacob now considers

Jacob's remarkable creations have found favour with the most glamorous stars in music, sport and film – such as Carrie Underwood, David Beckham and Milla Jovovich

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- jac o b & c o -

“Jewellery at this level is special.

It requires a personal relationship” many Hollywood actors and stadium-filling musicians as friends.

While the glamour has been welldocumented, he has not forgotten his roots.

"Being the new kid in the industry without a family history or pedigree was a challenge at first," he recalls. "It's always tough at the beginning but jewellery at this level is special in that it also requires a personal relationship. It's never standard or mass-produced so ensuring originality and high quality takes time."

Even when established, things didn’t always run smoothly. "The recession that hit a few years ago was a low point, making all businesses suffer a bit, but I'm staying positive.

"People don't want to see the same designs they see everywhere else. I'm proud of my company today. I admire companies

Tell us about the design process

I’m involved from beginning to end because I’m a perfectionist and it’s very important to me for my clients to be satisfied. The process can take as little as a few weeks but if it’s a more intricate piece, or watch, it can take months – or even years in some cases – to bring a design to market. For my jewels, I need to source the stones and get them from all the diamond manufacturing countries, including Israel, Belgium, US, Australia and different parts of Africa.

Do you have a worldwide presence?

At the moment we're enjoying great success in the US and building the brand there out of our New York store. Right now, however, my strongest market is in Russia, the Middle East and Asia. We are continuing to expand into eastern and western Europe and other regions as we find the right partners. We do have great retail partners like Frost of London, who are a good fit as they have the same drive to expand the business - but that isn't to say that we might not open additional stores around the world.

Why is Baselworld this year set to be bigger than ever for you?

It is a special year for us. Jacob & Co will be celebrating the tenth anniversary of the launch of the Five Time Zone watch collection and of our exhibiting at Baselworld. It's a great milestone and something I'm very proud of personally, so we want to showcase a retrospective of those pieces. I'll also be launching a spectacular range of my new jewellery designs as well as unveiling all-new timepieces for 2013.

like Verdura and Mauboussin who have adorned beautiful women for centuries. It's something I aspire to."

And as to the future, could there come a time when Jacob & Co becomes Jacob & Sons?

"In business as in life, it is a popularity contest. There's no competition as my pieces are unique. After 25 years, I've done everything on the bucket list and I'm concentrating on the future and the legacy now. And yes, I hope as we grow the brand, my sons will come to join me and represent the next 25 years."

With Jacob's kind of legacy, they'd have to be crazy not to.

frostoflondon.co.uk

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Leather tote bag by Ettinger; Squires holdall by Cherchbi; gym holdall by Viktor & Rolf

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Opposite page: metallic leather digital case by Burberry. Below: leather monk shoe by Otto; leather credit card case by Ettinger; 8oz hunter's flask by Ettinger; Gentleman's Lab socks by Falke; scented candle by Cire Trudon.

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Left to right: sunglasses (0261 Sand) by Cutler & Gross; sunglasses (Union, Horn Sun) by Han Kjøbenhavn; sunglasses (Paul Senior, Transparent Brown) by Han Kjøbenhavn.

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- U lt i m at e au d i o -

Words – Ken Kessler

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Left: B&W’s flagship Nautilus speaker.

Below: KEF’s Blade speakers

In a world where an iPod can hold with ease over 3,000 albums, when wireless technology means never needing a physical music library, how does high-end audio survive? What is it that keeps a hardy band of genuine music lovers from succumbing to the lure of the compact, plastic tat that mass-market manufacturers would have you buy instead of proper hi-fi?

To appreciate the mere existence of the finest audio equipment, one has to have a love for music that goes beyond regular consumption.

This is not the world of background music, of shuffle mode. Loving music may sound an obvious requirement, but hi-fi also has a geek element similar to the Leica fetishists who never use their cameras because they don’t want to open the sealed box. For the rest, it’s about getting closer to the music.

With all of the talentless performers who increasingly dominate the world of music –

for every amazing Adele, there are 10 terrible boybands – and with the lack of respect for sound quality in a world of streaming and downloads, investing in serious sound systems might seem futile. “Serious” means prices like those of fine watches. If a typical iPod dock costs less than a Casio G-Shock, then a superlative sound system – a turntable or CD player plus an amplifier and speakers – will have a total cost close to that of a Breguet tourbillon.

CDs now cost around £5, so the price of the media is no longer prohibitive. But purists still prefer physical media to sounds from cyberspace, and favour the analogue vinyl record over all digital sources, whether CD, its harddrive-based derivatives, or music downloaded via the internet.

It is not a conceit to suggest that high-end audio components are inspired by the same motives as the finest wristwatches: the entire

T­ he virtues of Swiss watchmaking are not confined to timepieces.

The country is also home to some of the finest sounds around

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- U lt i m at e au d i o -

raison d’être of cost-no-object components, designed without size or material limitations, is to deliver sound quality simply not offered by the mass-market junk produced by giant multinationals. Designers of high-end audio equipment think like the great watch designers, who live to extract ever more accuracy and dependability from timepieces developed without constraint.

High-end audio numbers among its finest minds a number of watch enthusiasts and, fittingly, Switzerland has played a significant part in the high-end audio industry, dating back to the birth of speciality audio equipment in the late 1940s and early 1950s, and the invention of the stereo LP. Early milestones included fabled turntables by Thorens and EMT, while Revox and Stellavox are remembered for sublime open-reel tape decks. But the most important audio brand of Swiss origin is Nagra.

Celebrating its 60th anniversary in 2012, Nagra, more than any other, has an affinity with watchmaking due to the miniaturisation present in its most famous product, the SN

“spy” tape recorder beloved of the CIA. It is a marvel of engineering, an open-reel tape recorder that fits in the palm of one’s hand.

Its role in recording everything from loquacious mafiosi to indiscreet politicians is the stuff of legend. Its tape recorders are so distinctive that they often appear in films where there’s a need to show a recording device capable of serious eavesdropping.

Swiss to the core, one of Nagra’s factories actually faces Cartier’s atelier in La Chauxde-Fonds; others are in Cheseaux, Geneva, and Nyon. For 15 years, Nagra has produced equipment for domestic hi-fi users, including amplifiers, CD players, and digital converters.

Naturally, the sound quality is superlative.

But for Nagra – like most other high-end manufacturers – that is not enough. What completes their worth as objects for connoisseurs is their astonishing build quality, as would be familiar to anyone who ever handled a fine wristwatch.

Much younger, but operating in the same tradition, is Geneva-based darTZeel, which

It’s not all Swiss While the handful of high-end audio manufacturers in Switzerland rank consistently among the finest, and although the country has a strong historic presence in audio thanks to Revox, Thorens and others, the world leaders in high-end audio can mainly be found elsewhere. Without dispute, the US has the greatest number of high-end brands, followed by the UK, Germany, Italy and Japan.

Interestingly, while the newest in the fold has been inspired by Swiss watchmaking, the company is 100% American. Dan D’Agostino, who founded Krell and now heads a company bearing his name, has been a watch collector for decades, having owned Blancpains,

Opposite page, top: the Nagra 300i amp.

Left: the TechDAS Air Force One turntable. Following page, clockwise from top left: Wilson Audio’s Alexia speakers; Chord’s SPM 1400MkII amp; SME’s Model 30-12 turntable

Franck Mullers, Glashüttes, IWCs and others. His appreciation for watches is reflected in the first D’Agostino products.

The Connecticut-based company’s first offering, the Momentum amplifier (pictured above), sports a power meter inspired by classic Breguet aesthetics, including a Breguet-style hand.

The chassis is machined from solid aluminium, with heat sinks made from solid copper billets. The metalwork matches the precise fit of a watch case. The difference is in scale: the Momentum measures 5x12.5x21in (HWD) and weighs in at an appropriately heavyweight 90lbs.

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is so utterly Swiss that its amplifiers feature custom-made screws to hold the panels together. Other Swiss audio maisons include Soulution, Da Vinci Audio, the recently revived EMT, Thorens and Daniel Hertz. In every instance, the resemblance to Swiss watchmaking standards is unmistakable.

What they all have in common is the ability to reproduce recordings with unerring authenticity.

That sound, once experienced, will force you to treat plastic iPod docks the way you regard plastic watches. You will wonder why you sully your ears with ear-buds. If you savour your finest wines in Zalto glasses, sign your cheques with a Montegrappa, and watch Ascot through Swarovski binoculars, perhaps you ought to show your ears the same respect?

The brands to buy What do you buy if you want the very best?

Ask 10 audiophiles and you get 11 different answers, because – just as with watch preferences – the choice is utterly personal. But just as the watch industry has a permanent A-list of Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet and Rolex – so certain audio brands have transcended trends and, most importantly, hi-fi critics.

English manufacturer SME produces of some of the world’s finest tonearms and turntables, and has done so for over half a century. It was founded by Alastair Robertson-Aikman, an engineer who always wore a Rolex Datejust, and used it as a yardstick for his

products. One watchmaker-cumaudiophile of my acquaintance believes SME’s build quality equals the best that Switzerland can produce.

There’s a vast array of brands producing the audio equivalent of triple calendars and minute repeaters: Wilson Audio’s $200,000 XLF speakers with custom automotive paint finishes; valve amplification by Audio Research or McIntosh; CD players and digital electronics from Esoteric; Koetsu phono cartridges; cables from Transparent. The secret, of course, is knowing which pieces work best together.

And for that, it comes down to one thing: finding a superlative retailer.

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- b o n u s s p ec i a l -

Words – Hannah Silver

All right, wasting it is half the fun. But spend at least some of it on the right things and they can make that windfall feeling last a lot longer

Your bonus a

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- b o n u s s p ec i a l -

legion centurions Aston Martin

In 1913, no one could have predicted that the just-launched car manufacturer Bamford & Martin Ltd would become one of the world’s greatest motor marques.

But the company, now known as Aston Martin, has evolved into a truly iconic luxury brand. Its centenary this year has not only given Aston Martin a chance to look back, but also to power forwards.

To celebrate, the brand is releasing exclusive

centenary editions of its best-loved models: the V8 Vantage, DB9, Rapide and Vanquish, with only 100 of each model being built.

The special editions will be ultra-luxurious, with an inside covered in soft black leather - previously only found in the One-77 hypercar - with contrasting silver stitching, special silver thread embroidery and solid sterling silver sill plaques individually numbered with the Aston Martin hallmark.

The exterior also features solid silver Aston Martin badges with tailored enamel inlay and a special hallmark.

Even the paintwork, which takes more than 60 hours to complete, has been given a unique graduated finish with special tints applied to each panel by hand.

A worthy way to blow the bonus, then, and also a solid investment. The exclusive nature of these motors means they should, at the very least, hold their value.

POA, astonmartin.com

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theatre impresario Meridian Audio

Meridian has a great collection of audio and video essentials, from premium speakers to in-car surround systems. Our favourite, though, is this digital home theatre, which can be completely customised to your own design. The surround sound system will put your local cinema to shame, while a visual set-up offers an impressive 10-megapixel video resolution - four times sharper than high def.

POA, meridian-audio.com

beautiful inside your head forever Damien Hirst

Arguably the best way to create a talking point in your home is to own a piece from a controversial artist. Love him or hate him, Hirst fits the bill.

While acquiring one of his bigger works can prove a trifle tricky, unless you boast oligarch levels of wealth, a limited-edition print is within reach. This kaleidoscopic colour burst is on a silkscreen print with glazes and pearlised colours, and was printed for Hirst’s Superstition exhibition at London’s Gagosian Gallery in 2007. It comes in an edition of 50, all individually signed and numbered.

£20,950, quintessentiallygifts.com

1966 and all that Girard-Perregaux

The Girard-Perregaux 1966 houses an impressive three complications, boasting a minute repeater, annual calendar and an equation of time function that shows the difference between civil and solar time. It retains a beautiful classic and timely appearance thanks to a warm rose-gold case and sapphire crystal case back.

£215,000, girard-perregaux.com

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- b o n u s s p ec i a l -

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01 cigar heaven DeART

For quality cigars, the right storage is essential. DeART’s bespoke humidor cabinets and walk-in rooms have been given the nod of approval from London hotels including the Ritz, the Bulgari and the Mayfair, all of which use them in their smoking lounges. DeART's Total Climate systems have humidity and temperature levels which can be set and monitored on an electronic display. Design-wise, why not take a tip from the Wellesley hotel, which opted for a beautiful ebony and Spanish cedar walk-in. Or, for a more old-world feel, the pure untreated cedar wood humidor, as used at members' club 5 Hertford Street, is a smart choice.

POA, cigarstime.com

02 scotch must Bowmore

While we’d never advocate investing in whisky – much more fun to drink it, after all – this is one spirit you might want to save for a special occasion. The Bowmore 1957 is the distillery's oldest whisky and the oldest Islay single malt ever released.

Distilled in 1957, it’s been slowly maturing in casks and promises a sensory journey like no other spirit. With only 12 bottles available, this will become a serious collector’s item.

£100,000 per bottle, bowmore.com

03 script genius Jack Row

While there is no shortage of luxury pens, there are few high-end writing instruments that have been fully crafted in Britain. Jack Row painstakingly produces each piece using traditional techniques – such as diamond machining and precious stone setting –

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usually reserved for precious jewellery. The results are architecturally-inspired objets d’art.

Especially impressive is the Jaali collection, which sees each piece covered in fine India-inspired filigree lattice and studded with petrol blue diamonds.

POA, jackrow.com

04 perfectly to scale Magnanni

Shoes are something you should never skimp on. And these beautifully designed contemporary classics from Spain should, if properly cared for, last for decades.

Constructed from alligator skin and hand-dyed one piece at a time, the timeless Derby design ensures they look as good with a suit as they do with jeans.

£2,050, magnanni.com

05 sound barrio KJ West One

KJ West One's London store has been a favoured destination for audiophiles since the 1970s, thanks to its knowledgeable staff and range of brands. Clear Audio is arguably the most coveted: its range of slick-looking turntables includes the Master Reference, cited by critics as the must-have vinyl playback system. Impressive engineering design features make sound quality note-perfect.

£7,280, kjwestone.co.uk 06 A good turn Noblekey

It’s curious that, no matter how high end a car is, very often its key is a cheap, plastic affair. Now you can put your keys on the bar top with pride, thanks to Noblekey.

This company will create a copy from your key and marry it with exotic materials such as carbon, precious woods, diamonds and even mammoth ivory. A little piece of art – for your car, boat, plane or house – in your pocket.

POA, noblekey.de

04/02/2013 12:31

INVEST IN PLEASURE The ex-Works 1953 340/375MM Berlinetta Competizione, chassis no. 0320AM, during the 1953 Le Mans 24 Hour race where it was driven by Hawthorn and Farina. 0320AM will be offered at auction on 25 May at the Villa d’Este auction in Como, Italy.

OFFERING THE WORLD’S FINEST RM Auctions is the global leader in offering investment-grade collector cars. We will return to Villa Erba, Lake Como on 25 May for our biennial sale offering forty of the world’s elite motor cars for auction. Join us to celebrate the grace, power, and mystique of the historic automobile and find your next investment pleasure.

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- b o n u s s p ec i a l -

Classic cars used to be to investors as they were to drivers: expensive and dangerous. Not any more Although once regarded as a glamorous, if financially questionable, investment, classic cars are now coveted by canny investors. Celebrity collectors such as Chris Evans and Jay Leno - who both own a fleet of rare models and Jerry Seinfeld, who owns one of the largest Porsche collections in the world, have seen their cars’ worth shoot into the stratosphere.

One of the reasons that the classic car market is increasingly seen as a financially safe bet is because many motors now have their own index, the Hagi, that tracks the market, in the same way that the FTSE does with UK companies.

This reveals, rather surprisingly, that since the onset of recession in Europe and the US, a select band of classic cars has proved a

A certain vintage better investment than gold, fine art and wine, with a 12% annual growth rate comparing extremely favourably with 2% for gold in the same period. Rare Bugattis, Jaguars and Ferraris performed best, while Mercedes-Benz models from 1955 and Porsche 911s from 1972 have also recently sold well at auction.

With plenty of dross out there, and just the odd automotive gem, it’s worth taking advice from specialist dealers on the right investment.

Check out some of the best below.

Speedmaster Cars

Speedmaster specialises in historic, racing and Formula One cars. The company says several factors affect value, but one of the most dramatic is definitely production numbers.

“There were 72,000 E-type Jaguars made, which have an average estimated value of £30,000,” explains owner James Hanson.

“Only 36 of the Ferrari 250 GTO were made, and they have an average value of £17m.”

Being identified with the right kind of owner can always help too.

“The fact James Bond drove an Aston Martin DB5 doesn’t just uplift the value of one car, but the whole brand,” says Hanson.

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RM Auctions

Always worth keeping an eye on, RM holds annual auctions throughout Europe and North America, as well as offering a handy concierge service that can arrange everything from your travel to your bidder registration. The next European auction is in May during the famed Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este weekend on Lake Como, Italy – the company’s last event there brought in a jaw-lowering £20m worth of sales in two hours. Unmissable. rmauctions.com

Photography - Darin Schnabel © 2009 courtesy RM Auctions; Shooterz.biz © 2011 courtesy RM Auctions 091-100_Bonus Special.indd 98

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TL04 FD ARR Owners club America 10/12/2012 20:38 Page 1

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- b o n u s s p ec i a l -

Frank Dale & Stepsons

Established in 1946, Frank Dale & Stepsons is the world’s oldest independent Rolls-Royce and Bentley specialist. Director Giles Crickmay has recently seen the market prosper. “The rarer the car, the better, in terms of market interest,” he advises. “When purchasing a classic car take into account three aspects: rarity, style and condition, which largely dictate the car’s desirability and market value.”

Annual costs shouldn’t be a problem either, with older cars free to tax and cheap to insure, if using the right broker. “No more than £1,000 should be taken up every Duncan Hamilton year on servicing and general The late Duncan Hamilton drove maintenance,” Crickmay says.

Formula One and grand prix cars frankdale.com in the 1950s before setting up his own business selling competition motors. The business is still in the family and sells a vast range of makes, including Porsche 917s, Ferrari 250 GTOs, numerous Jaguar C and D types and a Mercedes Benz 196 grand prix car.

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03/01/2013 16:41

- A n g elo Ga lass o -

Words – Hannah Silver

Me, myself &I Angelo Galasso says he has no influences, no interest in legacy and is concerned only with ‘self, self, self’. No wonder he’s the world’s most singular fashion designer You opened your first store in London in 2000.

Do Italian and London style differ wildly?

Angelo Galasso knows a thing or two about style. The charismatic Italian is not only a fashion designer to the stars, but also the eighteenth best dressed man in the world according to GQ. Here he discusses the importance of shoes, why he won’t work with Flavio Briatore and why Prince Charles is the best-dressed man in Britain.

Very much so. When I came to London, everybody was wearing cufflinks. I started off designing shirts to fit these, in the English style, but nobody wanted them. They wanted Italian flair, so I embraced my roots and gave them what they wanted.

When did you become interested in fashion?

How did you find working with Flavio Briatore on the Billionaire clothing line?

I was born in a small village in south Italy, one of those places where everyone knows everyone. My father was chief of police and didn’t want me hanging round the streets getting into trouble, so they sent me places where they could check up on me. I went to the shoemaker, the shirtmaker, I helped to produce leather and cut trousers. I enjoyed it so much, but being a male fashion designer wasn’t really a solid career choice in Italy at the time. Until my father died I did nothing; the day after I did everything.

There were problems. In the fashion business you need three things: the product, the ambassador and the money.

When you have these you can do what you want. Flavio was very popular then. All the newspapers until then had talked about me, but when I was with him no one wanted to talk about me at all. It became a problem, and people turned away when they found out Flavio was involved.

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- A n g elO Ga lass o -

I pushed a lot of my connections to build up the brand.

Meanwhile, his team wanted to downgrade the material we used because Flavio’s background was in Benetton, which is very high-street. They wanted to bring the price down and do fake luxury. I didn’t like it. So, we had a bit of a fight and split up and I launched my own brand in 2009 so I could do what I liked.

What trends do you like?

Tell us about the Unico service you are launching this month

If you want to change your look, you have to do it completely, you can’t just change one piece. Never wear more than one flashy item at a time. The shoes are the most important part of a man’s wardrobe. If I want to know who you are, I’ll look at your shoes.

None: I ignore trends. I don’t want any influence, ever. I want to start with nothing. A classic look is the best. For me, the best-dressed man in the UK is Prince Charles. He must have a great tailor, you can see from the shoulder of his jackets and the stitching.

What are your fashion tips?

It’s the first official Angelo Galasso bespoke line. In truth, I was one of the first to push for bespoke for men, perhaps 20 years ago, as a lot of the factories in Italy were against it. Now every big fashion brand – Armani, Prada – offers a bespoke service. You know, men are much more vain than women. They’ll spend on spa treatments, a Ferrari, or other expensive boys’ toys. With that in mind, our Unico service offers individually designed jeans, pyjamas and even underwear so men can look different in every way. And they are willing to pay well for the privilege.

What’s next?

We’re continuing to open stores worldwide, but other than that I don’t have a plan. It’s the Italian attitude - we live by the day. We’re very relaxed. My father always said that the last suit you wear should have no pocket because we don’t need it. We can’t bring the money with us, so why do you want to work, work, work?

Who wears your clothes?

How would you like to be remembered?

Rod Stewart, Frank Lampard, Hugh Jackman, Al Pacino.

I organised something in Venice for Al Pacino; he wanted a tuxedo that was a bit different. I was shown a picture of him wearing it the morning after an event to go to Starbucks in LA, so it’s fair to say it definitely looked different then!

He liked that jacket a lot.

I don’t want to be remembered. We should just enjoy the life we have. When we die, we die. There are only three important things: myself, myself, myself.

angelogalasso.com

“If you want to change your look, you have to do it completely, you can’t just change one piece”

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04/02/2013 12:35

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04/02/2013 13:21

- T EC H N O LO GY -

Words – Alex Pell

Desk jockeys Speakers so good you might not want to leave the office Wireless music may have slightly diminished the love for stereo computer speakers, but those who sit in front of a PC or Mac for long periods appreciate a dedicated setup, optimised for close quarters. All the speakers here contain their own power supply and amplification, making them an ideal way to deliver an instant sonic boon to anything from a laptop to a kitchen TV.

Audio Pro Addon Six £350, audiopro.com Scandinavian outfit Audio Pro specialises in speakers containing seriously clever components. The Addon Six package may look like conventional bookshelf monitors but they can be connected to the optical audio output of a computer as well as a standard line-in. So, if you hanker for wireless action, you can feed them the digital output from an Apple AirPort Express or buy Audio Pro’s own USB dongle for £150. The sound is extremely impressive and, should you wish to beef up the bass, Audio Pro offers a matching sub-woofer for £450 more. Available in three swish colours, this represents a seriously compelling option for a simple yet highly versatile music system.

Focal XS Book £300, focal.com

Focal is known for serious hi-fi speakers and the French firm’s savvy is apparent in the XS Book package. These swish-looking speakers deliver an extraordinary sense of scale and weight, helped by their stature: at 11in tall, they are large for a set of PC speakers.

Focal offers an optional adaptor for connecting the XS Book to most amplifiers wirelessly and this uses a high-quality variant of Bluetooth known as apt-X. However, they do lack a digital input, which means you will need to invest in a digital-to-analogue convertor (DAC) to make them truly sing with a computer.

Monitor Audio WS100 £250, monitoraudio.co.uk

Bowers & Wilkins MM-1 Monitor also specialises in home £400, bowers-wilkins.co.uk cinema setups and so these new dinky cube-shaped desktop monitors are a welcome foray into a smaller-screen world.

The WS100 is a revelation compared with standard computer speakers. Firstly, they produce wonderful stereo image and tremendous power despite their modest size. Better still, Monitor bundles a USB dongle for wireless connection to a computer and because the WS100s have their own onboard DAC, this setup works extremely well. A result.

Since its launch three years ago, the MM-1 package has been the class-leading option for computer speakers as, despite being less than 7in tall, it creates an immense soundstage close up.

The presence of a USB socket as well as a conventional line-input enables a digital or analogue connection to computer. There is, however, no wireless option (unless you invest in third-party kit) thereby making the MM-1 expensive compared with newer rivals. Nevertheless, it remains a genuinely class act.

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28/01/2013 10:31

- M oto r i n g -

Words – Kyle Fortune

Quattro forte Fifty thousand sales by 2015. That might sound fairly conservative in the global car market, but it’s ambitious for Maserati given its relatively meagre 6,000 sales last year. The allnew Quattroporte is important then, with Maserati CEO Harald Wester describing it as a cornerstone for the ‘industrial revolution’ that Maserati is undertaking, which will see the foordoor classic joined by a smaller saloon and an SUV in 2013/14.

Like those anticipated sales figures, the Quattroporte has swelled in size.

The Quattroporte can now be seriously considered as a car to be driven in, as well as to be enjoyed behind the wheel. The added size does mean the Quattroporte isn’t as immediately arresting to look at as its predecessor, though it remains the undisputed supermodel in a class defined by restraint rather than flair.

The interior quality is in a different league to the preceding car, too. It feels genuinely luxurious, with a tangible increase in material quality, fit and finish throughout.

Powering it is a choice of two Ferrari-developed, turbocharged petrol engines. A twin-turbo V6 with 410bhp is the entry point, while a twin-turbo V8 with 530bhp heads the range.

Turbocharging means the V8 delivers it prodigious thrust from low revs, the eight-speed automatic transmission working smoothly and swiftly in unison – 62mph arriving in just 4.7 seconds.

Fast, yet less demanding, easieraccessed performance is married to a chassis that, while retaining the sporting spirit of its predecessor, does so with the edges smoothed out and refinement dialled up. It’s a different Quattroporte, then: more neutral, accessible and sensible, but retaining just enough of its Italian flair to appeal.

Given those ambitious targets, it’s the car it needs to be, and signals a new direction for the brand – and one that’s entirely necessary if those sales figures are to be achieved.

Maserati is fronting up to the downturn and playing to its strengths with a beefed-up version of its classic saloon

Price £110,000 (estimated) Performance 0-62mph (0-100KPH) 4.7 seconds Top speed 190mph (307KPH) Engine 3.8-litre twin-turbo V8 petrol Transmission Eight-speed automatic, rear-wheel drive Construction steel body with aluminium panels - 111 -

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- s u p eryac h ts -

Words – Scott Manson

build itnn they will come 112-113_Yachts.indd 112

CRN’s greatest superyacht yet has just launched, but is already drawing stares from all over the Mediterranean Marching bands, half a dozen speeches, a gala lunch and a crowd of thousands.

For the launch of its biggest boat yet, CRN Yachts pulled out all the stops. The vessel in question, dubbed Chopi Chopi, is a 262ft (80-metre) superyacht that was bought by an unnamed Lebanese billionaire for approximately $110m.

Tempus was in attendance at CRN’s shipyard in Ancona, Italy, for this milestone event, which saw the vessel join the pantheon of the world’s largest yachts, ranking number 71 in the Top 100. The yacht broke the previous record of 72 metres set by Azteca, which was launched in 2009 and, until now, was the largest yacht built by CRN.

Designed by Italian architecture company Studio Zuccon International Project, Chopi Chopi is the 129th pleasure vessel produced by the company and took 660,000 working hours to build. The interior will be completed in the coming months, based on a design

by Studio Laura Sessa Romboli. The finished yacht will be presented at the Monaco yacht show in September, along with CRN’s 197ft J’Ade. Attending the launch was CRN’s chairman and CEO, Lamberto Tacoli, along with the chairman of the Ferretti Group and the Weichai Group, Tan Xuguang, the Ferretti Group CEO, Ferruccio Rossi, and the Chinese ambassador to Italy, Ding Wei.

04/02/2013 13:33

The launch of Chopi Chopi was attended by hundreds. On board is rather more exclusive, with six plush suites and the owner’s ‘nest’

Tacoli said, “The launch of Chopi Chopi should not only make our company and employees proud, but the whole Italian boating sector and Italian industry in its entirety. It’s products like these that will preserve Italy’s position as the world leader in this sector.”

A five-decked vessel, served by two lifts, Chopi Chopi can host up to 12 guests in six suites, as well as a crew of 23 and ten staff members. It has a cruising range of 6,000 nautical miles, which means it can travel from Italy to the Caribbean and back without filling up. When the time comes to pump some gas in, though, the fuel tariff will come in at a cool £450,000 for a full tank.

It’s the features, though, that really make this yacht stand out. They include an indoor fitness area, a spa with sauna, Turkish bath and massage area, and the ‘beach club’ – a collapsible door folding on to the water surface that converts into a 1,000sq ft swimming platform.

Elsewhere, the owner’s exclusive ‘nest’ provides privacy and easy access to the helicopter pad.

For those thinking of taking a break around the Adriatic in May, keep an eye out for Chopi Chopi, as this is where she’ll be enjoying her maiden voyage.

You’ll spot her easily enough. It’ll be the biggest yacht in the sea, whose owner is sporting the world’s widest grin.

crn-yacht.com

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- h ot els -

Words – Jay Boisvert

Temple of va-va-voom Andaz’s modern cool is built around an intriguing history

Every high-end hotel has its secrets. From haunted rooms to clandestine meetings to celebrity bad behaviour, mystery can be found at every turn. London’s Andaz is no different.

Situated right in the City, this handsome building houses not just one of the capital’s most impressive hotels but also, buried deep in its interior and walled off for decades, a genuine Masonic temple. Crafted by Charles Barry Jr, son of the architect of the Houses of Parliament, at a cost of £500,000 (£4 million by today’s reckoning), the temple contains 12 types of marble, as well as mahogany furniture and a golden pipe organ.

Generally, only those who book the temple for an event get to see it but ask nicely and the hotel staff will often oblige a guest’s curiosity.

It’s that kind of place – a welcoming oasis of calm amid the bustle of London’s financial centre, and somewhere that you instantly feel at home. From the slick check-in, done via iPad

of course, to the elegant marrying of traditional surroundings and cutting-edge modernity, this is one truly beautiful hotel.

Our guest room was tastefully decorated in cool, muted greys, black, white and red – plus, a nice touch this, a minibar stacked with free goodies. There were also fantastic views of the City although, in the brief minute or so I took to admire it, my partner had taken it upon herself to eat the chocolates left on the pillow.

Right, that means the minibar contents are definitely mine …

In truth, neither of us needed any in-room indulgence as we were booked in at 1901, the hotel’s gastronomic restaurant. Beneath a stained-glass domed ceiling, next to a marble cocktail bar, we enjoyed a beautiful beef tenderloin with braised cheeks, pumpkin puree and pan-fried salmon with a horseradish crust and caper-balsamic sauce. Both were sublime and, we’re told, comprised ingredients that were the result of the head chef travelling the length and breadth of Britain to locate them. As I slice through the beef ’s tender flesh, I give silent thanks to his diligence. This is a meal that’s all highlights and no misfires.

Classy, elegant and friendly – the Andaz might just be my new favourite London hotel.

andaz.hyatt.com

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04/02/2013 13:35

HÔTEL DES VENTES DE MONTE-CARLO Auction House www.hvmc.com Hôtel des Ventes de Monte-Carlo

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CONTACTS BUREAU DES EXPERTS: MONACO - Émilie Belmonte ebelmonte@hv-montecarlo.com Tél. : +377 97 70 83 36 PARIS - Arnaud Beauvois arnaud.beauvois@gmail.com Tél. : +33 1 53 04 90 74

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- w ellb ei n g -

Words – Scott Manson

Mind over matter Well, this is awkward. I’m in the changing rooms of Club 51, a personal training gym in London’s Marylebone and I have just come face to face with one of my musical idols. The fact that he is strolling about in his boxer shorts only makes the scene more surreal.

The club prides itself on discretion so sadly I’m sworn to secrecy on his identity and, indeed, the identities of the half dozen or so similarly starry types I see working out during my sixweek training programme. Suffice to say, while the gym also has plenty of ‘civilian’ clients, it’s clearly struck a chord with some of the capital’s most famous residents.

This is down to gym founder Jon Denoris, celebrity exercise guru, international fitness educator and Nike master trainer. Indeed, his club website is filled with testimonials from notable types – those he is allowed to reveal, presumably – including singers Natasha Bedingfield, Estelle and Rachel Stevens. The latter’s quote simply says “To the best trainer in the world. Thanks for kicking my butt!”

In my experience, butt-kicking is most definitely the order of the day at Club 51, although Jon is keen to stress that a bespoke training programme is crafted according to each individual’s needs and ability. Before I get started,

he conducts an in-depth assessment, along with body mass measurement, and then decides on my fitness goals, along with a sensible eating plan.

“It’s important to have a strategy, rather than just hitting the weights or doing a ton of cardio,” he says. “We take a helicopter view of your body, assessing all of its biomechanical, physical and medical needs.”

The sedentary nature of my job – typing for hours at a desk – meant that Jon enlisted Seb, a member of his team who specialised in posture and sports rehab, to give me my first lesson.

I’d prepared myself for a beasting, so it was a pleasant surprise to spend an hour being taken through some gentle stretching and callisthenics exercises. These were designed to loosen me up for forthcoming sessions, and thus reduce the risk of injury.

The following sessions, however, were quite a different animal. With the exception of the delightful yoga teacher, Sally Parkes, who gave me an hour of quiet contemplation, interspersed with some slow, careful movements, my twice-weekly training was tough.

“I know exactly how hard to push people,” said Jon. “Anyone who has a personal

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trainer should always remember that you have a choice, and if it doesn’t feel right it probably isn’t. Allow yourself to assess how it’s going and how you feel after the sessions. A little muscle soreness is fine from time to time, but if you can barely slide out of bed sideways, it might be a little too intense.”

The sessions constantly changed, which meant I never got bored. One minute we’d be hitting pads, the next I’d be hammering away on an exercise bike and then I’d be on the floor doing ‘planks’ – press-up style moves that strengthen the core, and hurt like hell.

One of the other big differences was the lack of weight training employed. Jon is a believer

in exercises that rely on moving bodyweight, rather than pushing bars. It’s a more natural approach and one that can also, handily, be employed when you are outside the gym.

And the toughest move in those six weeks?

That honour would have to go to the ‘battle ropes’ – one minute bursts of intensely whipping a thick ship’s mooring rope so it snakes across the floor. It sounds simple, but the screaming muscles and tendons in my arms say otherwise.

The results speak for themselves. A half-stone weight reduction, muscles that I haven’t seen in 20 years popping up and a feeling of wellbeing like no other. To paraphrase a famous advert, Jon is reassuringly expensive, and worth every penny.

clubfiftyone.co.uk

Essential supplements

You can’t out-train a poor diet, and Jon recommends the following ‘nutrient timing’ plan – using the highly respected Kinetica sports nutrition products – for optimum results.

T h e En ergy P h as e This phase lasts from 10 minutes prior to working out and finishes at the end of your workout. The objective is to release sufficient energy to your muscles by consuming a prepared drink rich in both carbohydrates and protein, as well as containing vitamins and minerals.

T h e A n a b o li c P h as e This is the 45-minute period following training. Your muscles have little gates (called glut 4 receptors) that open and allow increased uptake of nutrients. The aim here is to switch the body’s metabolic machinery from a catabolic to an anabolic state. A liquid supplement at this time is important and should ideally combine whey protein (13-15g), high-GI carbohydrate (such as glucose, sucrose or maltodextrin) and 1-2g of glutamine.

T h e G rowt h P h as e This extends from the end of the anabolic phase to the beginning of the next workout.

During this time there is an increase in contractile protein, and muscle fibres, as well as replenishing muscle glycogen depleted during your workout (energy phase). Basically, you are rebuilding.

Do this with a high-protein diet, plus high-protein/ low-GI carbohydrate snacks to achieve optimal results.

A wholewheat bagel with a hard-boiled egg, for example, or an orange and half a cup of low -at cottage cheese.

kineticasports.com - 118 -

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- g ro o m i n g -

Fringe benefits

When it comes to their hairstyle, men are notoriously resistant to change. If yours has hardly altered since you were a teenager, this is your tonsorial rallying call – it’s time to do something different. It needn’t be drastic as even subtle changes can dramatically improve your appearance. This year’s top hair trends, below, should provide food for thought…

Our grooming expert Carmelo Guastella says it’s time to redo your ’do Si d e pa rti n g I predict that the side parting - which was a key feature of 2012 - will continue to dominate, especially with the release in May of The Great Gatsby, in which Leonardo diCaprio sports a classic side parting. I do feel, though, that the whole look - also popularised by Dan Stevens as the dashing Matthew Crawley in Downton Abbey - will progress into a trend for a longer and rather foppish side parting. Another big name working the side parting is David Beckham, whose hairstyle of late seems to be influenced by both the 1920s and the 1960s.

Sh o rt cro p A short crop will also be popular, and is the best option for those with thinning hair.

A short masculine style with sleek, clean outlines, as seen in the Dolce and Gabbana spring/summer 2013 fashion show, looks very smart. Armani and Calvin Klein also kept the sides short on their models, giving a better illusion of thickness then length would. Be careful though, as a successful hairstyle is dependent on many factors, and following the latest trends means men often adopt a style that simply doesn’t take into consideration their face shape, hair type, age or profession. To ensure you receive the best possible advice, it’s vital that you visit a respected barber who will guide you through the process towards great hair.

M ed i u m a n d m essy If you have hair, get it styled professionally and grow it for a more laidback look. Try the medium-length, messy styles seen at recent Paul Smith shows. For a more fun take on the trend, try a quirky quiff.

Styling products are key here, as they'll enhance the overall image considerably and keep things under control. If you want a longer style but don't have the follicles for it, don't be afraid to follow in the footsteps of Wayne Rooney and opt for a hair transplant. Many of my clients have done so and now have a full head of hair, and a plethora of new styling options.

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- t r av el -

Words – Scott Manson

Finding time to savour it all is the problem at Club Med Opio, where decadence comes on tap

Almost 60 years old and still going strong, Club Med, the original all-inclusive resort group, now has more than 80 ‘villages’ as far afield as Bora Bora to choose from. Some readers may recall that it was once regarded as something of a fruity affair, filled with amorous couples canoodling on sun loungers in between energetic bouts of trampolining and watersports.

The rise of independent travel, though, and the subsequent move away from package holidays, saw the brand disappear off the coolhunter’s radar. Now it has risen again, and is once more enjoying its time in the sun. This is, in part, due to the global financial crisis and the subsequent belt-tightening by holidaymakers.

Suddenly, a high-end, all-inclusive hotel that offered great food in desirable locations was on the menu again for travellers.

It helped, too, that Club Med upped its game by closing almost half its resorts and spending €1bn seriously upgrading the 80 that remained. Today its most luxurious resorts offer butler service, champagne on tap and,

naturally, the legendary buffets still groan with gastronomic delights.

A case in point is the beautiful Club Med resort in Opio, close to Cannes on southern France’s Valbonne plateau. Provençal in style, and boasting great green credentials – the hotel is the only French holiday resort to have been awarded the EU’s Ecolabel for holiday accommodation – its architecture is laid out in a handsome setting of narrow streets and shady squares, all set in eight hectares of olive groves and palm tree-filled gardens. It also offers a surprisingly tricky nine-hole golf course, tennis courts and three swimming pools.

First impressions were good. Our taxi whisked us from Nice airport to the resort in around 40 minutes and we were shown to a cute double room, decorated in warm earthy tones and boasting a balcony with views of the golf course. A quick tour of the resort revealed that, frankly, even a two-week stay here would never be enough to enjoy everything that Club Med has to offer. From expert tennis coaching to aqua aerobics to hourly gym classes and

The lush surroundings of Provence’s Valbonne plateau make everything from breakfast to a round of golf a pleasure at Club Med Opio

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- t r av el -

more – all part of the package price, of course – there is something for everyone here.

My partner, never one to shy away from a challenge, decided to sign up for the circus skills classes. I opted to be the official photographer for this momentous occasion, reasoning that none of our friends would ever believe that my wife had voluntarily got on a trapeze unless

to the advanced class. Despite this, I regularly saw myself comprehensively thrashed by elderly ladies in the social tennis sessions that ran between classes. In a face-saving effort at self-deception, I reasoned that this was purely down to the fact that I would regularly eat my own bodyweight at the resort’s incredible lunchtime buffets.

chic fellow French guests stay so slim is a mystery worthy of Arthur C Clarke.

Post-dinner, we’d take a nightcap on the quiet terrace of Bar du Loup, with its panoramic view of the surrounding countryside. There are also nightly shows that run in the resort’s main auditorium which, although highly professional, surfed

there was hard photographic evidence.

Meanwhile, I chose the more traditional option of the resort’s tennis academy. Open six days a week, it offered morning and afternoon classes with an excellent instructor who, by the end of the week, had completely reinvented my game. Indeed, its testament to his tuition that day three saw me move up from intermediate

As I said, these are pretty special. The French, and it is predominantly a resort frequented by the French, will not suffer bad food. While a similar resort run by a British tour operator might be able to fob off guests with low-quality offerings, Club Med’s tables are filled with justshucked oysters, juicy onglet steaks, wood-fired pizzas and seared foie gras. How our fabulously

dangerously close to the cheesy package holiday shows of old for this reviewer.

Far better, then, to get an early night and prepare for another day of activity and luxury in one of the friendliest and most welcoming resorts in the South of France.

If you thought you knew Club Med, it’s time to think again.

Tables are f illed with just-shucked oysters, onglet steaks and foie gras

How to do it

Depart 9 March or 23 March for a seven-night all inclusive holiday at Club Med Opio en Provence from just £1,559 per adult.

This includes: • Return flights from London and transfers between the airport and resort.

• Accommodation in a Club room.

• All meals with wine, beer and soft drinks, bar drinks and snacks.

• A wide range of group classes and sports activities.

• Children’s clubs from ages four to 17 inclusive.

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- t r av el -

Ro o m for

ro m a n c e Looking for somewhere special to treat your significant other? Try our cherrypicked selection of secluded, intimate destinations made for two

Gran Hotel Atlantis Bahia Real

With its seafront location in Fuerteventura in the Canaries, the Grand Hotel Atlantis Bahia Real is a tempting choice for a romantic long weekend. To really impress, opt for the Royal suite, which has sweeping sea views and a private jacuzzi.

There are also five gourmet restaurants and an excellent spa, with the couples’ massage coming highly recommended.

bahiarealresort.com/granhotel

Anahita

For pure decadence, head to Anahita in Mauritius. Set among tropical gardens, it‘s almost a village in itself with a wealth of boutiques, gyms, golf courses and tennis courts on offer. If love is in the air, give the golf a miss and instead try the Robinson Crusoe picnic. This bespoke experience sees a boat speed a couple to a secluded white sandy creek with a picnic basket and champagne. What happens next is up to you…

Jetwing Blue

Jetwing Blue in Negombo, Sri Lanka, is picture-postcard perfect. White sands, azure sea and Sri Lankan hospitality make it an indulgent choice for couples in need of unwinding. Its spacious suites have rain showers, outdoor jacuzzis and personal butler service, while the restaurants have views of the dramatic sunsets over the Indian Ocean.

jetwinghotels.com/jetwingblue

anahitamauritius.com

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- m o m en ts i n t i m e -

In 1962, Swiss racing driver Jo Siffert had it all. He achieved his dream of racing in Formula One and - seen here sporting his Heuer Autavia - was as admired for his sense of style and fair play as he was for his track skills, dicing with the likes of Jim Clark and Jackie Stewart. Equally renowned for his sportscar driving, Siffert won the Daytona 24 hours and 12 Hours of Sebring in 1968. His F1 peak came in 1971, when victory in Austria helped him to fifth in the world championship. Sadly in this, his most successful season, he died in a fiery crash at Brands Hatch. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Jo was a chivalrous driver,â&#x20AC;? said Stewart, remembering one of the last of the gentleman racers.

Live fast

tagheuer.com

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BAROS MALDIVES THE ESSENCE OF THE MALDIVES Pure, hassle-free luxury in lush, natural surroundings, that’s the essence of Baros Maldives. It’s a small tropical island ringed by a reef vibrant with marine life and encircled by a golden beach, with 45 thatched villas nestled among swaying palms and 25 water villas poised over a translucent lagoon. Five Water Villas have been converted to premium accommodation & named Pool water villa each with a private swimming pool set into an expanded timber veranda deck above the lagoon, with loungers for sunbathing and enjoying the view.

Created from timber and sandstone, each villa has a king size bed and décor of elegance, with en-suite bathroom in a garden courtyard or with a panoramic lagoon view. Eleven have their own beachside plunge pool.

This idyllic island retreat is blessed with an eco-friendly dive centre, blissful spa, three gourmet restaurants, a palm grove bar and a cocktail lounge, and discreet staff on hand to meet every demand.

Baros Maldives is an award-winning resort exclusive to resident guests, just 25 minutes by speedboat from Male’ International Airport. No small children, no motorised vehicles, no annoying noises disrupt the serene tranquillity of this pure tropical paradise.

Email: info@baros.com Call: +960 664 26 72 Visit: www.baros.com

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Silk Collection, gold and diamonds -足 www.messika-足paris.com

108 New Bond Street, London W1S 1EF Tel : 020 3372 0108

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