Tempus 07

MaĂŽtres du Temps Pa r m i g i a n i

Winter coats Supercars

British watches m ag i ca l M a ld i v es

Gaydamak

Men’s fragrances

Swiss ski special b oa r d ro o m a rt

Top turntables 001_Cover.indd 1

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Engraved gold version of the first CORUM automatic baguette-shaped movement.

+44 (0) 1256 862 068

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Linear-winding automatic movement, 18K red gold case with sapphire crystal sides and back.

108 New Bond Street | London W1S 1EF | www.frostoflondon.co.uk

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Explore the Energy of Creation

Limited Edition Raw black diamond, Colombian Emeralds and 18K Rhodium plated white gold

108 New Bond Street | London W1S 1EF | Tel. 020 3372 0108 www.frostoflondon.co.uk

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108 New Bond Street London, W1S 1EF www.frostoflondon.co.uk

CRYSTAL TOURBILLON COLLECTION JACOB & CO. 24.50 ct. Invisible set baguette diamonds 47m m 18k Wh ite Gold Skeleton Movement

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jacobandco.com

+1.212.719.5887 48 East 57th Street New York, NY

05/10/2012 09:36

Foreword

issue

seven Contributors

From the editor Editor

Scott Manson

scott.manson@astongreenlake.com 020 3617 4693 Art Director

Ross Trigg

ross.trigg@astongreenlake.com 020 3006 2122 Writer

Hannah Silver

hannah.silver@astongreenlake.com Business Development Director

Mark Edwards

mark.edwards@astongreenlake.com 020 3617 4688 Senior Account Manager

Tom Pettit

t.pettit@astongreenlake.com Senior Account Manager

Maxime Mendelewitsch

maxime@astongreenlake.com Managing Director

Jay Boisvert

Tempus is published monthly

by Aston Greenlake Ltd, 8th floor, 6 mitre passage, london se10 0er.

TEL: 020 3617 4688

Biscuits, marmalade and moaning. No, it’s the not the title of the latest hit art house movie, but rather the response from an Australian friend when I asked him what we did best in Britain. Leaving aside the standard Aussie dig about ‘whinging poms’, it got me thinking that it was high time we celebrated something else that was currently flying the flag for Britain. This is, of course, our watchmaking industry.

This brave new world of home-grown horology is a true renaissance that has seen brands such as Roger Smith, Christopher Ward, Bremont, Schofield and many more reignite Britain’s centuries-old tradition of fine watchmaking. You can find out more about this exciting movement on page 83.

Elsewhere, we delve into the fascinating world of business and art, revealing why more and more companies are investing in, and displaying, cutting edge artworks.

We also catch up with the sister act team behind celebrated jewellery brand Gaydamak, head to the Maldives to find out why it’s fast becoming known as a surfer’s paradise and highlight the best new winter coats for every dapper chap’s wardrobe.

Watching the new Bond film last month also inspired our ‘As Seen on Screen’ feature on page 58. From 007’s iconic timepieces to Stallone’s penchant for Panerai, we highlight the most famous watches in movie history.

Finally, don’t forget to check out our cover star brand this issue – Maîtres du Temps – a company that has brought the world’s greatest watchmakers together to create something truly special. And yes, one of those ‘masters of time’ was a Brit…

Enjoy the issue.

Alex Doak

One of the UK’s most prolific watch journalists, Alex is the perfect writer to highlight Britain’s home-grown watchmaking industry. He reveals some of the brilliant brands currently wowing the world’s watch aficionados, on page 83.

Timothy Barber

Fine timepieces have played a starring role in many films over the years, so we asked Timothy Barber, editor of 00/24 WatchWorld, to seek out some of his favourites. Discover who made the cut on page 58.

Sophia Koopman

Sophia Koopman is an arts writer. She runs Koopman Contemporary Art, a small arts consultancy offering bespoke art solutions.

Sophia investigates the fascinating world of corporate art on page 64.

Scott Manson Editor

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108 New Bond Street | London W1S 1EF | www.frostoflondon.co.uk

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Contents

Inside issue seven

12 Take Me There

64 Turn Right at the Picasso

Witness the incredible sight of Turkey’s whirling dervishes

The fascinating world of corporate art

15 Luxury Briefing

70 Magical Maldives

Because, it turns out, the best things in life aren’t free, after all

Why the Maldives is much more than a honeymooner’s paradise

21 Auction Watch

Our pick of the best items going under the hammer 23 Food and Drink

38

Where to eat, drink and be merry

Discover the biggest names in British watchmaking

29 The Word

34 Object of Desire

95 Slide and Chic

The joys of skiing in Switzerland 105 Town and Country

Cover: Maîtres du Temps Chapter Three

All eyes are on Roberto Demeglio

We highlight the freshest men’s fragrances around

38 Bundle up

111 Slovak Supercar

48 Maîtres du Temps

A Slovenian ex-racer creates his dream car

The story of a unique master watchmaker collaboration Exclusive adornments

58 As Seen on Screen

We reveal some of the best watches seen on the silver screen

Our favourite places to stay this month 108 Grooming

The winter coats to wear now

54 Fashion and Accessories

Jewellery-designing team Gaydamak reveal the secrets of their success 83 Best of British

27 On the Scene

Tempus joins Parmigiani in Munich Colin Scott on whisky; Hannah Silver on the return of the old school; Scott Manson on the joys of private aviation

76 Think Outside the Jewellery Box

Special thanks: Bruce Anderson bruceanderson.co.uk Charlotte Johnson @ThePressOffice & Simon Berkovitch

112 Decks appeal

The ultra-luxury world of today’s turntables 114 Moments in Time

Barack Obama and his Jorg Gray

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Take me there

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Every December, crowds gather in the Turkish town of Konya to witness the amazing sight of dozens of dervishes whirling in ecstasy to ancient Islamic hymns.

The practice has been passed down through generations of faithful for over 700 years and takes place outside the tomb of the Sufi saint, poet and mystic Rumi. The worship service is in tribute to this 13th-century scholar who loved all religions and whose own religion was one of love. The whirling dervishes, who often lose themselves in a trance as they spin for hours, make Konya an incredible place to be at the end of this year, on the 738th anniversary of Rumi’s death.

Photography - mehmetcan

gototurkey.co.uk

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24/10/2012 11:13

Luxury briefing

Because the best things in life aren’t free

Skeleton crew Richard Mille Skulls are undoubtedly having a moment, with the most complex take on the trend to date being this piece from Richard Mille. Not just a decorative device, the skull is actually an integral part of the movement, with the jaws holding the ruby in the tourbillon case and the back of the skull acting as the movement’s centre

bridge. The four bridges connecting the movement to the case are cleverly disguised as crossbones and are toughened by a carbon and titanium case with a sapphire crystal front, making this one of the most intricate and well-crafted Richard Mille timepieces yet.

richardmille.com

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23/10/2012 17:05

Luxury briefing

Carbon dating Audemars Piguet AP’s Royal Oak is a firm favourite with watch aficionados, and now the Swiss brand’s Millenary collection has excited a similar level of interest among its acolytes.

Inspired by Rome’s Colosseum, the watch’s oval shape gives an unusual three-dimensional depth to the dial. The Carbon One is particularly impressive, featuring a hand-wound tourbillon chronograph encased in forged carbon, and available in a limited edition of 120.

audemarspiguet.com

King of cognac L’Essence de Courvoisier Once favoured by the emperor Napoleon, and the product of 100 precious cognacs from the two most exclusive crus, Grande Champagne and Borderies, this limited edition spirit combines a silky smooth texture with flavours of light cedar, black cherries and a tinge of citrus. It comes bottled in a beautiful handmade Baccarat crystal decanter, featuring a faceted crystal stopper inspired by the 10 signet rings Napoleon gave to his most loyal military commanders. A regal experience.

harrods.com

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The world’s fastest electric car Mercedes-Benz AMG Mercedes-Benz has announced that it’s planning to launch the SLS AMG Electric Drive next year, after the car’s show debut at the Paris Motor Show. Described as the most powerful vehicle in the AMG stable, this 4WD blue chrome gullwing is powered by four compact electric motors, producing a combined 740 horsepower. This enables it to sprint to a limited 155 mph and achieve 0-62 mph in an astonishing 3.9 seconds. Expect to pay around £400,000 when it goes on sale in June 2013.

mercedes-benz.co.uk

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Luxury briefing

Brains and beauty Tonino Lamborghini

Animal magic

Crystal clarity

Mark Coreth

Blancpain

Tonino Lamborghini, the company founded by the son of the famous sports car mogul, has released one of the most exciting new luxury smartphones on the market. A 3.7-inch touch panel, sapphire treatment screen and Android 2.3.5 operating system make it technologically impressive, while a rose gold case and diamond processed metal up the luxury stakes.

Available in a run of 650 pieces.

Celebrated British sculptor Mark Coreth has an impressive following of fans, including J.K. Rowling, the Bamfords, the Sultan of Brunei and Princes William and Harry.

Recognised as a master of capturing animals in motion, his work sees him track wildlife in their natural habitat and quickly ‘sketch’ them using his artist’s backpack of wire, Plasticine and other materials. These are then cast in bronze on return to his studio.

His much-anticipated show at the Sladmore Gallery, which runs until 17 November, promises to be a brilliant example of his craftsmanship.

One of our favourite releases of the year, the Villeret Squellete 8 Jours combines technological achievement with great design to beautiful effect.

The openworked movement is fully visible through sapphire crystals on the front and the back, while its slender shape is the result of painstaking filing and bevelling which creates sleek interior angles and rounded curves. The name, incidentally, references its impressive eight-day power reserve.

lamborghini.it

blancpain.com

sladmore.com

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23/10/2012 17:06

U-BOAT U-51 Chimera

Domed hand-cut sapphire glass, 316L medical-grade stainless steel, thick hand-sewn alligator strap, Top Soignee Valjoux Chronograph, 44-hour power reserve, 3-layer sandwich case and water-proof to 100m.

The U-51 is the latest timepiece to come out of the ateliers in Lucca. This steel behemoth is a 47mm work of engineering genius.

Now you know. kno

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24/10/2012 09:12

Big Date Instantaneous Triple Calendar Grade 5 titanium and 18K white gold

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02/10/2012 09:45

Auction watch Words – Hannah Silver

Bonhams

It’s the first time in 78 years that paintings from Russian realist painters The Wanderers have been offered in the same collection, and interest in these four works will be high. The 19thcentury pieces depict the poverty of the Russian people and the beauty of the country’s landscape.

Estimated £250,000 to £2.5m. The Bonhams Russian sale is on 28 November. bonhams.com

Underthe hammer

From rare watches to opulent jewellery and fine spirits, here’s our pick of the best that auctioneers have to offer

Fellows

Watches of Knightsbridge

Estimated £1,200 to £1,800. The Fellows Antique and Modern Jewellery Auction is on 8 November. fellows.co.uk

Estimated £10,000 to £15,000. The Watches of Knightsbridge sale is on 24 November. watchesofknightsbridge.com

Dating from the early 20th century, this stunning platinum diamond and sapphire fob watch is an early example of today’s jewelled watches. Old cut diamond floral cluster detail and a pave set diamond back casing with sapphire border make it a highlight piece of the jewellery auction.

The extremely rare 1965 Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Dive Alarm watch is one of the most sought-after pieces by collectors, due to its unusually large proportions.

The Memovox Polaris has inspired many of today’s timepieces, from the Master Compressor to the Amvox, and is an important piece of the brand’s history.

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23/10/2012 17:08

M ESURE ET DÉMESURE *

TONDA QUATOR Rose gold Automatic movement Hermès alligator strap Made in Switzerland

* EXACT AND EXULTANT

www.parmigiani.ch

LONDON ARIJE | ASPREY | HARRODS YORK HARPERS CHELTENHAM BEARDS FOR FURTHER STOCKIST INFORMATION CONTACT 020 3355 7702

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PARMIGIANI • Tonda Quator • Format: 240x300 mm • Magazine: Tempus (GB) • Calitho 09-12-78321

Food & Drink

Trends and news from the best bars and kitchens

Tom Aikens

Reviewed by Scott Manson You might be surprised to hear that finding someone to join me for a restaurant review can be a tricky task.

It’s not me, I hasten to add. My skills as a sparkling conversationalist and engaging dining partner are without question. I am, so to speak, a legend in my own lunchtime. However, on a wet, cold Tuesday in London, say, there are precious few who are hardy enough to head out for a meal with a friend.

Unless, of course, that meal comes courtesy of Tom Aikens, arguably one of the most talented chefs currently plying their trade in the capital. His eponymous Chelsea restaurant, which reopened earlier this year, has already

gained a Michelin star for its inventive food served in a relaxed, informal setting. Little wonder, then, that the first potential dining partner I called quickly found a gap in their social diary.

From the start – homemade bread served with three types of butter – this was cooking done with flair, imagination and technical mastery. Our seven course tasting menu included delicate jasminecured salmon with viola flowers, pickled apple and jasmine oil – a sophisticated symphony of pleasure on a plate. We also tried a crispy, crunchy rectangle of piglet belly – braised, roasted and served with squid and pineapple – which exploded with intense porcine flavour across the palate.

A beautifully tender, rose-pink lamb cutlet followed, its savoury depth complemented by a sharp sheep’s cheese, roasted leek and confit potato.

A dessert of frozen chocolate aero, alongside smoked and bitter chocolate, was an indulgent, but not cloying, finale to a meal that demonstrated why Aikens is at the top of his game.

This is a restaurant worth travelling for, whatever the weather.

tomaikens.co.uk

Home House gets a makeover

London members’ club Home House has announced the opening of House 19, its relaunched restaurant and bar with former Ritz chef Jeremy Brown at the helm. His passion for British seafood means the menu features a

feast of scallops, Cornish lobster, John Dory and more.

From its walls covered with specially curated art, the funky illuminated bar and overall spirit of opulence, this is a home worth revisiting. homehouse.co.uk 23

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23/10/2012 17:10

Food & Drink

Expert selection

Among the plus points surrounding buying wine from a decent merchant are the multitudinous tasting invites you receive, with the hope that after sipping 100 or so wines, you may well end up buying a stack of cases.

It works. The first I attended was the legendary 2005 Burgundy. Now I can feel quite smug that I have 20 cases in storage of one of the finest vintages known to man.

A recent tasting, courtesy of Bordeaux Index, showcased a healthy array of wines from Rioja, Priorat, Ribera del Duero, Rueda, Toro and Galicia. The following are some of my discoveries from the evening.

by Peter Dean

The best of Bordeaux Index’s Spain and Portugal tasting

Le Mas Candille The first thing that strikes you upon arriving at Le Mas Candille is the awesome view. Perched on a hilltop in Mougins in the South of France, the French Riviera’s countryside spreads out before you like a sun-dappled patchwork quilt. Lunch, served al fresco on the terrace, is a serious gastronomic experience. Michelin-starred chef, Serge Gouloumès, has worked everywhere from Los Angeles to Montreux but it’s here, in the relaxed, wine-drinking Riviera, that his Italian and Provençal-inspired cooking seems most at home. It certainly worked for us. Over the course of a leisurely, late-summer afternoon we sampled the best the menu had to offer. Foie gras came in a tatin with Armagnac, while lobster was sprinkled with a surprisingly spicy Thai jus and passion fruit chutney.

Meat raised the bar still higher – a fillet

Valbuena – Vega Sicilia, 2004 Reviewed by Scott Manson of Montbéliard beef served rare was meltingly tender, while boneless breast of pheasant with gourmet truffle spread was a brilliantly inventive take on traditional game cookery. A crisp apple tart, shared between two of us, was the perfect end to the sort of meal you dream about, but rarely experience. Just 15 minutes from Cannes, but a world apart from its buzz and glitz, Le Mas Candille is a real find. I shall return.

lemascandille.com

From the stable that brings you Unico, one of Spain’s greatest wines for the past 150 years, this Ribera del Duero is a hedonistic mix of mainly Tempranillo and Merlot. It’s about £100 a bottle, half the price of Unico.

Mas la Mola, 2007

This current vintage is a mix of Carignan and Grenache which has spent 18 months in the barrel.

The red fruit is almost Barolo-like in that it has overtones of tar and rose, but is much more robust.

Priced at £40 a bottle.

Contino Viña del Olivo, 2007

One of the best Riojas in Spain and the flagship from the Contino vineyard, it’s a mix of 88 per cent Tempranillo and Graciano. A full, rich, fruity wine that has a solid backbone of 36 months in oak.

Well worth £50-£60 a bottle.

bordeauxindex.com

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On the scene

Parmigiani party in Munich Tempus popped over to Munich last month to party with Parmigiani, the watch brand whose stunning creations have featured several times in our publication. Officially, we were there to hear more on its Women of Exception award, which recognises the achievements of women in culture, science, lifestyle and finance from around the world.

Happily, Parmigiani knows how to celebrate properly, whisking us off to the famous Oktoberfest for some traditional German entertainment. Platters of roasted meat, men and women in lederhosen and pints of champagne made for one of the best – and most surreal – parties in a long time.

Concord C2 Launch A disused Tube station in the hipster enclave that is London’s Brick Lane isn’t your usual location for a luxury brand launch, but it was entirely in-keeping with Concord’s new graffiti-inspired watch, the C2 GraffitiGrey.

Having previously launched the watch in Paris and Milan, it was London’s time to enjoy Concord’s urban flavour. The brand commissioned graffiti artists in each city to produce a unique piece of street art inspired by the C2. London duo A+B introduced their remarkable piece and guests even got to try a little street art themselves. It was, as a b-boy might say, dope.

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The Piccadilly Princess 327 ideal cut round brilliant diamonds weighing 23.36 carats

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Hannah Silver the new modern

The Word

The natives are getting restless. Londoners, that is. In my home city I sense a growing ennui with its gimmicky nightlife and dining scene – from restaurants offering only one style of dish or drink to those eschewing a booking policy in favour of the tiresome, but apparently cooler, notion that everyone should queue. And don’t get me started on bottles of champagne being carried through clubs with sparklers flaring around them.

While there’s nothing intrinsically wrong with a trend-obsessed nightlife scene – a static city is a dead one, after all – it’s the sheer lack of imagination that grates. The assumption that because something’s shiny, new and modern it must be cool.

No wonder, then, that many of the capital’s hippest types are turning back to glory days long past. It’s a trend that has been growing for a while, with a revival of that bastion of the old school, the gentleman. Events such as the Tweed Cycling Club – where cyclists dress in full tweed regalia and embark on mass cycling expeditions through London, are popular, while The Chap magazine has been celebrating the British gentleman since 1999.

Other British events are gaining in popularity – the car gathering Glorious Goodwood is much-loved and has added to its repertoire with the Goodwood Revival and Vintage at Goodwood, both of which hark back to a sepia-tinted past. Heck, even the Movember moustache-growing charity owes at least some of its popularity to participants wondering what they’d look like with some old-school topiary on their face.

Elsewhere, a new crop of cigar bars are springing up all over London, partly as a last dying gasp against smoking regulations, but also because they roll back to a simpler time when men gathered after dinner to drink brandy and enjoy Cuba’s finest. Fortunately, 21st-century standards apply, and women no longer have to patiently sit outside. There’s the just-opened Cigar Room at The May Fair hotel, which channels cosy country homes with day beds, fireplaces and an extensive cigar menu. Others, including The Edward Sahakian Cigar Shop and Sampling Lounge in the newly opened Bulgari hotel and the heated cigar terrace that will open at The Wellesley Hotel in December, are ultra-civilised and stylish.

Prohibition cocktail bars, always popular – the Experimental Cocktail Club and Bourne & Hollingsworth are particularly good – have now evolved into full-blown drinking dens. Jazz bars and members’ clubs are everywhere, with revamps such as Home House’s beautiful 19 bar suggesting this isn’t a transient trend.

It’s a movement that has spread further than London. Last year’s opening of David Lynch’s Paris nightclub Club Silencio may be as wonderful as you’d expect from the legendary director, but it’s still rooted in the world of gentlemen’s clubs – the well-stocked library and forest-like smoking room showcasing Lynch’s love for a bygone era. Across the pond in New York, a plethora of gin palaces will open by the end of the year. Expect a neo-speakeasy vibe to prevail, with ‘Dorothy Parker’ gin cocktails served in no-frills surroundings.

Fin-de-siecle nightclubs too, are in vogue. For proof, look no further than NYC’s Boudoir, filled with cocktail-sipping hipsters.

Just as fashion is cyclic, then, so is nightlife. So embrace it. Trim your moustache, don your best vintage gear and raise an Old Fashioned to the new modern.

Hannah Silver is a luxury lifestyle journalist

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Colin Scott

T h e wat e r o f l i f e

The Word

If there is such a thing as a ‘whisky appreciation gene’ then the Scott family surely possess it. Both my grandfather and father dedicated their lives to the Scotch whisky business – working in the Orkney distilleries – and I have carried on that honourable tradition. I started working with Chivas in 1973 and, in 1989, achieved the coveted post of master blender. It’s been a thrilling time and one that’s not only seen me create the new Chivas 18 and Chivas 25 blends but also travel the world spreading the word about the magic of whisky. From conducting a tasting in St. Petersburg, as a full symphony orchestra played specially composed pieces to match the taste of each blend, to hosting a gathering of whisky aficionados in minus 40 degree temperatures in Alaska and arriving, via helicopter and clutching a bottle of Chivas Regal 25, onto the helipad of Dubai’s Burj Al Arab hotel.

But what is it about whisky that has captivated so many people the world over for centuries? It has become so important to Scotland’s culture – indeed, the word ‘whisky’ derives from the Gaelic words uisge beathe, which translates simply as the ‘water of life’ – that any bottle displaying the term ‘Scotch whisky’ has to, by law, have been produced in Scotland and aged in oak barrels for at least three years.

The origins of Scotch whisky are shrouded in the mists of time, with the first known reference coming in 1494 when Friar Jon Cor obtained ‘eight balls of malt’ to make ‘aqua vitae’. The following centuries saw families and farmers set up small distilleries, passing skills down from generation to generation.

With the introduction of grain Scotch whisky in the 1830s, the subtle mixture of both malt and grain whiskies to produce blended Scotch whiskies soon became popular. Many of these blended whiskies, such as Chivas Regal, are still household names today.

Part of Scotch whisky’s mystique is down to the singular character and flavour of each individual malt or grain whisky from each distillery. The natural ingredients and processes to produce malt whisky are the same at every distillery, but the characters produced are varied, with no two malt whiskies the same. Similarly, all grain whiskies are unique and this multitude of varieties gives a blender like myself an incredible ‘artist’s palette’ to draw from.

It gets better still. The spectrum of characters increases by taking into account the number of fills, the sizes of casks and the different ages of the whisky in the cask, each adding to and building on the original character of the whisky to produce a truly magnificent spirit of great quality, complexity and intensity of flavour.

The master blender now has the tools of his trade – a selection of mature malt and grain whiskies, each with their own flavours and at the perfect age for blending.

The blender’s skill is to harmonise the characters and flavours to produce a drink that will remain consistent in aroma, flavour and taste from year to year. A great whisky should be like a sunset – breathtaking, glorious and unique.

I have toasted with whisky thousands of times over the years and, in truth, what I am toasting is not just the occasion, or the friends gathered around me, or even the beautiful drink itself. What I am doing is celebrating civilisation, culture and life. And what better drink to do it with than the water of life? Cheers.

Colin Scott is the master blender for Chivas

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Jump the Queue

Fast track to the slopes this winter with Victor and The Oxford Ski Company.

The Oxford Ski Company provides the best luxury ski chalets and hotels in the world and Victor will get you there faster and smarter - get an extra half day at either end of your holiday. Victor is the world’s first marketplace for private jet travel with the largest contracted fleet of aircraft in Europe, reaching destinations that commercial aircraft cannot fly. The Oxford Ski Company provides unrivalled levels of expertise on the world’s most luxurious ski resorts – their tailored concierge service will ensure an exceptional experience. Private flight and accommodation packages available – request a quote today.

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12/09/2012 14:48

Scott Manson

t h e j oy o f p r i vat e av i at i o n

The Word

There are few things more soul-crushing for the frequent traveller than airport delays. Even those who fly in business or first class are at the mercy of slow airport security. But there is a way to avoid busy airports, travel in style and cut your journey time. Private jets have been steadily growing in popularity over the past decade, particularly among second-home owners trying to make the most of their weekends.

Using them can save you up to 50 per cent on your travel time, compared with commercial flying, It’s hassle-free, too: you arrive 15 minutes before your flight takes off, you can eat when you want, take luggage on board the cabin, there’s privacy to work and a limo meets you from the runway. It makes flying pleasurable once more.

I’ll never forget my first trip on a private jet. It was a short flight, between Paris and London, and on entering, I asked a question that had been troubling me.

“Can I smoke on this flight?” I asked.

“Sir,” came the laconic reply, “you can do whatever you want.”

Flying privately immediately transports you to a rarified world.

CNN mogul Ted Turner owns one, Beyoncé bought one for Jay-Z for Father’s Day and Frank Sinatra famously ferried The Rat Pack between Los Angeles, Las Vegas and Palm Springs on his personalized Lear Jet with the tail number N175FS. For those who don’t want the hassle of ownership, chartering is a popular option and is the method used by the majority of company CEOs, plus big names such as Nicole Kidman, Oliver Stone and Kanye West. The latter apparently serves tempura and filet mignon on all his flights. Oh, and Karl Lagerfeld’s cat Choupette, who flies in the cockpit on the way to St. Tropez.

NetJets Europe is the biggest private-jet operator in Europe and includes a host of celebrities and captains of industry as customers.

Their fractional business model allows you to buy a ‘share’ in an aircraft (and gain access to their entire fleet) or simply buy blocks of flying hours to use when you want.

Even better, the price is not as eye-watering as you might expect, with a minimum block of 25 hours costing €141,000 (£115,000).

For that, you get a seven-seat light jet which has a 2-2.5 hour range.

That’s enough to get you from Farnborough, London City or Northolt to the Alps, Spain and some of Italy. A round trip to the Alps can cost €15,000 (£13,000), but when you divide that by seven passengers – and keep in mind the reduced journey time and the fact that a private jet can take you to a small airport much closer to your resort – it starts to feel like a smart deal.

Other operations of note include Manhattan Jet Management, which allows you to buy up to an eighth share of a jet, guaranteeing you access to an aircraft anywhere in Europe at 24 hours notice.

Then there’s new boy Victor, whose unique proposition allows customers to sell their surplus seats on outbound or return flights to other members. The latter is arguably one of the lowest-cost ways to enter the world of private aviation.

Business jets may still be shaking off their decadent luxury tag, but next time you’re shuffling through airport security, clutching your shoes and holding your belt-less trousers up while hearing the Tannoy announce a delay to your flight, keep in mind that there is an alternative.

Scott Manson is the editor of Tempus magazine

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Objects of desire frostoflondon.co.uk

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Italian family-run business Roberto Demeglio has, since 1922, produced a wealth of eclectically creative jewellery designs. Combining rich family traditions with modern techniques, Roberto Demeglio pieces use classic precious stones in exciting and unique new ways. The brand frequently picks up awards for technically excellent pieces, with jewellery often crafted in such a way that

it can spin, twist or bend.

This Cashmere ring, for example, is a combination of beautifully cut black spinels and white diamonds.

The stones are mounted on rows of springs, protected by a patented design which means they can’t be overstretched and damaged.

This unconventional brand is definitely one to watch.

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Roberto Demeglio

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The must-have winter coats to keep your vital organs toasty

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Photography - Bruce Anderson

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Bundle up

23/10/2012 17:46

Fashion

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Previous spread - Camel leather double breasted coat with zip-off bottom panel and detachable shearling collar by Bally; Green/Red/Purple check double breasted London Showroom Wool Coat by Etro This spread - Artichoke cotton and nylon sateen hooded parka with fur trim by Burberry London; Stone tweed Crombie-style coat with three pockets by CK

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Swiss movement, English heart

Swiss made / 250 piece limited edition / ETA Valjoux 7750 self-winding chronograph with ĂŠlaborĂŠ finish / Bi-compax, galvanic, sapphire blue dial / 45 hour power reserve / 316L stainless steel case / 43mm diameter / Transparent case back / Blue alligator deployment strap

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Dark purple calfskin coat with belt by Canali Milan Collection

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Photographer: Bruce Anderson. Photographer’s assistant: Becky Westcott. Art director: Ross Trigg

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08/10/2012 16:07 26/4/12 10:43 AM

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17/09/2012 11:28

MaÎtres du Temps Words – Scott Manson

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Haute horology

When the world’s greatest watchmakers join forces on a Maîtres du Temps, the end result is a masterpiece. Meet the ‘Masters of Time’ and covet their inspired creations

The legendary Chapter One (left) was created by Maîtres du Temps’ ‘dream team’

As any fan of comic books will tell you, by far the most exciting moments came when superheroes teamed up for a special anniversary edition. The film, Avengers Assemble, is a case in point. Sport, too, is vastly improved by gathering the world’s best talent together – from the 1970s basketball ‘show team’ that was the Harlem Globetrotters to the gripping tournament that is the Ryder Cup. Heck, even politics piques the interest a little more when, as with the G8 gatherings, all the world’s big hitters are gathered in one spot.

In horological terms, the Maîtres du Temps brand comprises a superstar team-up like no other. Launched in 2007 by founder Steven Holtzman, its unique concept was to bring together two or three master watchmakers – the ‘Masters of Time’ – to work collaboratively on one timepiece.

The idea was that by mixing together the

ideas of individuals at the top of their craft, the result would be something that had never been seen before.

The first timepiece to be released, the Chapter One, was every bit as impressive as you’d expect from a watch created by the ‘dream team’ of Peter Speake-Marin and Christophe Claret.

“I was the team coach on this one,” says Walter Ribaga, COO of Maîtres du Temps.

“The brief was that we wanted something high-end with several complications and rolling bars. The resulting piece shows a typical Claret tourbillon with Peter acting as a technical advisor.”

When launched, the watch world went into meltdown, with every expert pronouncing it a seminal example of haute horology. For the creators, though, it was both a recognition of their art and a unique opportunity to collaborate with

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Maîtres du Temps frostoflondon.co.uk

“Many high-end watches are delicate and break easily. Not ours. These are robust pieces that can be worn every day.”

The holy trinity of Chapters One (far right), Two (far left) and Three (centre)

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their peers. The follow-up releases – Chapter Two and Chapter Three – have been similarly well-received.

“Some of the watchmakers we contacted had become very frustrated because they’d work for other brands, only for those companies to steal their thunder and ultimately take credit for their innovations and designs,” says Ribaga. “We gave them back the control.”

But when designers at the top of their game come together, surely the ego clashes must be enormous? It’s quite the reverse, says Ribaga.

“There was zero friction. They like to work at their own pace, which was fine with us. What is interesting, though, is that while all the watchmakers knew of each other, most of them had never met before.

A couple of them actually lived in the same village and they never realised. They’re so used to working in private that they enjoyed the collaborative nature of the work,

bouncing ideas back and forth and so on.

It made for a really interesting dynamic and some of them are now very good friends, calling each other from time to time with questions on new projects.”

The next ‘page’ of the Maîtres du Temps book was written with the release of Chapter Two in 2009. While still ultraluxury, the Chapter Two’s price of £65,000, as opposed to Chapter One’s £364,000 tag (with a limited edition run of just 11 pieces), made it a slightly more accessible proposition for collectors. This time master watchmakers Daniel Roth and Peter Speake-Marin came together to create a triple date (day/date/month) watch with a mix of shapes – the roller indicators top and bottom breaking up the long shape of the barrel – giving it the feel of a piece of functional art on your wrist.

“Chapter One was a high complication, with a price that reflected that,” confirms Ribaga. ”Chapters Two and Three are a

little more commercial. What they all share, though, is quality. Many high-end watches are delicate and break easily. Not ours. These are robust pieces that can be worn every day.”

The high price and limited edition nature of Maîtres du Temps watches (production currently runs at around 200-300 pieces a year), also means that buying one will be a genuinely good investment. In a few decades’ time, it’s likely that the brand’s watches will sell for considerably more than their current cost.

The latest piece from the brand is the brilliant Chapter Three. This saw watchmakers Kari Voutilainen and Andreas Strehler develop Maîtres du Temps’ first round-faced piece. Besides boasting the company’s inaugural in-house movement, it has a unique hidden dual-time zone function which is revealed via push-buttonactivated shutters at 12 o’clock and six o’clock. This is in addition to small seconds

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Maîtres du Temps frostoflondon.co.uk

Left: the ‘Masters of Time’ – Peter SpeakeMarin, Daniel Roth and Roger Dubuis.

Below: a side-on view of the Chapter Three

at eight o’clock, date at two o’clock and moon phase at four o’clock, all set on a beautifully decorated main dial. Plenty of complications, then, but set in such an exquisite design that it never feels cluttered.

“What’s interesting is that Kari originally intended the shutter opening mechanism to be part of the movement. This would obviously impact on the power reserve so Andreas proposed that it be driven by a push button instead,” says Ribaga.

The result is that the watch has a power reserve of 36 hours, which is still lower than many similar high-end pieces. The upshot, no doubt, of the power needed to turn the rollers that are the hallmark of all three chapters.

With its place in the pantheon of great watch manufacturers firmly established, Maîtres du Temps can now be found in top jewellers worldwide, including Frost of London. A relatively new arrival for the store, Ribaga explains that it was the passion and dynamism of the Frost directors that convinced him that the Bond Street jeweller was a perfect environment for his brand.

“We were delighted to work with Frost,” says Ribaga. “I want special attention and this is what we get from them. They are young, hungry guys who want to do great things. This is key for us. Ultimately, we hope to become a manufacture, creating

“Frost are young, hungry guys,” says Ribaga. “I want special attention and this is what we get from them” every aspect ourselves in collaboration with master watchmakers. Before then, though, we may create some new versions of Chapter Three. There will be a Chapter Four at some point – we aim to release a new model every two to three years – but we have to be careful not to cannibalise sales of existing models. These watches are big investments, after all.”

They say that time waits for no man.

When it comes a creation by the Masters of Time, however, an extended gestation period seems a small price to pay for such a superlative piece.

maitresdutemps.com

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17/10/2012 15:21 10/17/12 11:21 AM

State of grace

The latest in cutting-edge luxury from Frost of London

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01 Theo Fennell

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This beautiful cocktail ring combines creativity with pure luxury. Crafted from 18-carat yellow and rose gold and featuring a spectacular yellow beryl and diamond floribunda bee, it’s a showcase piece.

£14,500

02 Shamballa

Shamballa is loved for its jewel-clustered string bracelets – like the £20,700 offering here – but its other lines are worth a look. These white gold cufflinks covered with black diamonds will add an edge to a black tie look.

£7,560

03 Vertu

Vertu ups its game with the luxury Constellation Blue smartphone. It’s crafted from ultra-hard blue PVD stainless steel and blue carbon fibre composite and features blue metallic sapphire crystal keys.

Functional, yet glamorous.

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£POA

04 Chrome Hearts

This classic pair of aviators from Chrome Hearts are extra special, thanks to sharp titanium rims and elegant braided Italian leather arms.

From £1,395

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Watch this Words - Timothy Barber

The 10 most timeless timepieces to have co-starred in the movies A matinée idol is one thing; a matinée idol with a serious piece of wristwear is quite another. For decades Hollywood has known that a classy watch can lend a character sophistication, credibility and cool – none more so than James Bond, whose Omega, Seiko and Rolex classics dominate any list (including this one) of the

Film: Iron Man (2008) Watch: Bulgari Diagono Actor: Robert Downey Jr

What timepiece would an international playboy billionaire with a keen interest in weapons tech and building DIY jet-powered, armour-plated body suits wear? The answer, it seems, is a Bulgari – Tony Stark is seen sporting a number of the Roman jewellery house’s pieces in the first Iron Man movie. The most prominent is the Diagono Retrograde Moonphase in rose gold – a chunky, high-luxe piece that looks suitably sturdy-yet-streamlined for a superhero of the high-tech, mega-rich variety.

best cinematic timepieces. In the long-awaited new Bond movie, Skyfall, Daniel Craig’s wrist is adorned with one of Omega’s finest action watches yet, a new iteration of the Seamaster containing the landmark Daniels co-axial escapement. Here are the 10 most important watches ever worn on film…

Film: Blue Hawaii (1961) Watch: Hamilton Ventura Actor: Elvis Presley

The arrow-shaped Ventura must have seemed the very essence of futuristic, science fiction-inspired design when it was first produced in 1957. And not just for its shape, as it happens: the original version was Hamilton’s first electric watch, though it was technically unreliable. Nevertheless, the design was cool enough for Elvis to strap one on for his movie Blue Hawaii.

Continuing the futuristic theme, a modern version of the watch is sported by Will Smith and Tommy Lee Jones in Men in Black II.

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As seen on screen Film: Octopussy (1983) Watch: Seiko G757 Sports 100 Actor: Roger Moore

Roger Moore filled 007’s shoes at a time when quartz and digital technology was turning the watch market on its head. Proving Bond was a man of the times, the producers put his wristwear in the hands of Seiko, the world’s leading electronic watch producer. The company is still crafting tough luxe pieces today, with the below watch a current favourite at Tempus towers.

Film: Batman franchise Watch: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Actor: Val Kilmer / Christian Bale

One of the few good things about 1995’s otherwise patchy Batman Forever was the appearance of a JaegerLeCoultre Reverso on the wrist of the then rubber suit incumbent, Val Kilmer. The watch survived into the modern trilogy, with Christian Bale sporting it as Bruce Wayne, and Jaeger-LeCoultre this year revealed a Dark Knight Rises version with the contemporary ‘Bat’ logo etched in black lacquer on the reverse side.

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Film: Thunderball (1965) Watch: Breitling Top Time diving chronograph Actor: Sean Connery

Something of an anomaly among Bond’s watches, Thunderball featured a piece neither by Rolex, Omega nor Seiko. Looking suitably bomb-proof in its huge steel case and apparently reinforced bezel, it’s kitted out by Q with a meter for reading a Geiger counter – Bond uses it for tracking atomic bombs under the ocean. An oddity, but a very smart oddity. Although the Bond version was a prototype, below is a stunning example of Breitling’s current rugged offering.

Film: Drive (2011) Watch: mock-up Patek Philippe chronometer Actor: Ryan Gosling

In last year’s brutal thrill-ride, Ryan Gosling’s nihilistic stunt driver/getaway man sports a vintage ticker with which he times the five minutes he’ll wait on a heist before speeding off. But what was this smart-looking piece? Well – hmmm. GQ magazine revealed that the props department decided on a custom-made ‘Patek’ that never existed – one imagines punting a vintage Patek would’ve netted the character rather more dough than the heists. An ultra-stylish piece of cinematic horology, nevertheless.

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Film: Skyfall (2012) Watch: Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600m Actor: Daniel Craig

“Is that a Rolex?” Eva Green asked Daniel Craig in Casino Royale, setting up the most barefaced product placement in film history. “No,” purred the new 007, “it’s an Omega, actually.” Omega took on the Bond mantle in the Brosnan era, and there’s no doubting the excellence of the hardware it has provided to 007: its Seamaster diving watches are classics of the toughest kind. The watch Craig sports in new Bond flick Skyfall is arguably the best yet, with 600m water resistance and Omega’s cutting edge co-axial escapement technology. A true credit to any secret agent.

Film: Daylight (1996) Watch: Panerai Luminor Actor: Sylvester Stallone

By the mid-1990s, when Sly Stallone was filming this hoary subterranean disaster movie, Panerai, the former provider of diving watches to the Italian navy, had become a small-scale producer of specialist civilian watches. Discovering them in a shop in Rome in 1995, Stallone bought one and wore it in his latest tough guy role. Daylight was a stinker, but Sly’s patronage of the watch – including commissioning a series of personally branded ‘Slytech’ pieces for friends – helped turn this then niche concern into the defining macho luxury brand of the past decade.

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Film: Le Mans (1971) Watch: Heuer Monaco Actor: Steve McQueen

Steve McQueen is perhaps the only actor whose name has become a reference term for two different watches.

Rolex’s Explorer II 1655 from 1979 is known as the McQueen Rolex, but it’s the square-shaped Heuer from earlier that decade that he made famous on celluloid.

Heuer’s first automatic chronograph seemed utterly in tune with the machismo McQueen embodied in Le Mans. A sales failure at the time, the association ensured that the watch became a collectors’ favourite and led TAG Heuer to revive the Monaco in 1998.

Film: Dr No (1962) Watch: Rolex Submariner Actor: Sean Connery

The original Bond watch – and the best? Well, there’s no doubting the aura that surrounds the Submariner as sported by Sean Connery’s 007 from his first outing as Bond. Ian Fleming stated that Bond wore a Rolex but never defined the model – the Sub that Connery wore actually belonged to Dr No’s producer, Cubby Broccoli. Rolex’s sturdy, blackbezelled diving classic remained on Connery’s wrist throughout his Bond tenure – even now, no diving watch goes as perfectly with a tuxedo.

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05/10/2012 14:19

Boardroom art Words - Sophia Koopman

Yesterday’s stuffy boardrooms are now today’s inspiring galleries. Fashion and finance organisations across Europe are enjoying a contemporary art makeover that’s also good for business 64

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Below and below left: Tyson, Cragg and Riley artworks at Deutsche Bank, London.

Below right: the Montblanc Cutting Edge Art Collection

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Boardroom art

isitors gasp in astonishment when they enter Monsoon’s London headquarters. A 2.5 ton Bottari truck piled high with mounds of colourful silk bottaris (Korean cloths and bedcovers) greets them as they enter the fashion brand’s reception. The truck’s history is as colourful as its contents. It was driven by the artist, Kimsooja, throughout Asia, Canada, the United States and Latin America.

Today, the truck forms the centrepiece of one of the most original and exciting corporate art collections in the UK. Art is not confined to the boardroom at Monsoon. The brand uses its collection to inspire the designers who occupy the headquarters as well as engage visitors.

And while the work of featured artists Francis Alÿs and Alighero Boetti is easily recognised, it helps that art curator, Andrew Bonacina, is on hand for Tempus’s visit to identify the more unexpected pieces sourced from Lebanon and emerging art markets.

This art provides a stimulating environment for the people who create the ethnic-inspired fashions which are now sold in 1,000 stores in 55 countries. Indeed, the collection physically embodies the values of

the company and its founder, Peter Simon, and skills of his art dealer, Thomas Dane.

But it’s not just fashion companies that are investing in art to reflect brand values and inspire staff. Blue chip financial firms are finding that art is more than just decoration: it can also be a canny investment.

Eight miles away, in the City of London, Deutsche Bank is also using art in its business. Clients and employees are encouraged to touch the sculpture by British artist, Tony Cragg, when they enter the company’s London Wall office. At first sight, the piece looks a series of over-sized organs but, on closer inspection, you discover that it is made of thousands of dice glued together.

Tucked around the corner, Ken Kiff ’s Drawing the Curtain is like something from the Book of Genesis. There’s an air of innocence about the piece and a welcoming feel which draws the viewer’s attention.

The Deutsche Bank art collection has become a key part of its corporate social responsibility program, supporting local artists worldwide. It is such an important part of the Deutsche Bank brand that it even features in their annual reports.

Art has become integral to the experience of working for the bank. Its impressive collection consists of almost 60,000 pieces of

art in 928 buildings across the globe. This collection clearly has a defined vision and approach. As Alistair Hicks, senior curator at Deutsche Bank explains, “Deutsche Bank was a real pioneer in the 1970s in recognising the professionalism of the art curator”.

When asked about the style and trends of the collection, Alistair said, “We see ourselves as creating a platform for art, not endorsing it.

The whole thing is about change. Artists are constantly rewriting art history”.

The bank takes care to help people appreciate and enjoy the works on display. Each piece is accompanied by a plaque that provides a short biography of the artist. Leaflets are produced to highlight new acquisitions and special events, like the current installation by Keith Tyson called 12 Harmonics.

The company also produces an online art magazine and, while waiting in the foyers of its head offices, visitors can explore the collection virtually at an iPad station. If they prefer, they can read Deutsche Artbooks, thick coffee table volumes that showcase pieces such as Anish Kapoor’s sculpture, Turning the World Upside Down III, and Damien Hirst’s BiotinMaleimide. Even the most knowledgeable art aficionado will discover new works here.

Luxury brands, too, have embraced the art world. At Montblanc’s Hamburg headquarters,

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“We see ourselves as creating a platform for art, not endorsing it. The whole thing is about change. Artists are constantly rewriting art history”

Left: Montblanc’s artistic reception, Hamburg. Right: Sika by Gillian Ayres at Deutsche Bank. Below Keith Tyson’s 12 Harmonics

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Boardroom art

for example, visitors and staff can enjoy dozens of pieces of contemporary art from up and coming artists, all over the building.

“A company like Montblanc, with a century-old tradition, must keep questioning itself and breaking new ground,” says CEO Lutz Bethge. “This is why we keep our Cutting Edge Art Collection not in a museum-like environment, but integrate it everywhere in our enterprise where it can stimulate creative challenge.”

Other organisations take the business of art even further, inviting artists to talk about their work to clients and staff.

A case in point is the artist Adam Dant, who offered a first-hand introduction to recent history through the lens of The Fine Artist. Back in 2008, Adam Dant applied a biting comic visual language to the financial world. His Hogarthian look at the unfolding debt crisis resulted in a series of meticulously detailed, hand-coloured silk screen prints.

The resulting exhibition, The Triumph of Debt, was sponsored by wealth managers, London and Capital. Its staff still benefit from guided tours of the artist’s subsequent shows and projects such as his current exhibition of cartography, From The Library of Dr London at Hales Gallery, London.

The winning combination of inspired staff and impressed clients has seen many firms employ art consultants to help them choose pieces that will enhance their business and which will also, crucially, hold their value.

Often by focusing on emerging contemporary artists, art consultants can stretch a company’s budget. Alternatively, they may recommend a well-known artist such as photographer Eve Arnold. Her 1960 piece, The cast and crew of The Misfits visit a casino, would make a strong investment – as well as looking fabulous on the office wall.

Ruth Corman, art advisor to a wide range of businesses, including hotels and law firms, says: “We love the challenge of finding just the right works of art to suit each client.

With a selection of 400 artists in every medium, we can source abstract or figurative, minimalist or traditional pieces.”

Once the client has selected the piece that they want for their business, the art

consultant will take care of every detail.

They will arrange the purchase, framing, delivery, installation, cataloguing and security of each piece.

Clearly, the business of art is booming as more and more big companies are realising that bland, generic prints will no longer cut it. Today’s forward-thinking chief executives are aware that office art is not simply decorative affect. Rather, it enriches the environment, educating and entertaining its clients and staff.

The corporate world just got more interesting, and it looks fantastic.

koopmancontemporaryart.com cormanarts.com thomasdane.com

Left: contemporary art, like Suspend

by Alison Watt, is present to encourage fresh ideas in the office

Five questions to ask before you select art for your business 1. Who will see it?

Corporate art needs to have a broad appeal to clients, investors and employees.

2. How do you want it to support your business? Art can

support your brand through use in annual reports and play a valuable role in corporate social responsibility (CSR).

It can even be used for client entertaining, especially if you foster links with the artists.

3. Where will it be displayed? Art needs

to work with its surroundings. It has to physically fit into the space and make an impact. A variety of media, such as pictures, sculpture and ceramics, will make the collection more interesting. That said, collections that only contain paintings are easier to maintain.

4. What financial return do you need?

Large companies often have generous budgets. Smaller businesses usually need to make sure that their art purchases are good investments that will hold (or increase) in value.

5. How will you choose the art for your business?

A good art consultant can help you to find the right pieces. They can take care of the cataloguing, signage, security and insurance for you as well.

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Magical

maldives

Not just for honeymooners, the Maldives are a surfing hotspot as well as a chill-out paradise n terms of daft questions, asking a Maldivian travel expert whether I had to take a taxi from the airport is right up there on the ‘dumb tourist’ scale.

“No sir, it’s all speedboats and sea planes here.” I might be calling from over 1,000 miles away, but I swear I can hear the smile in his voice.

A necessary part of any travel to Asia involves either a slow (Delhi), a polluted (Bangkok) or occasionally dangerous (both of the above) slog from the airport to your hotel. Not in the Maldives. Arriving at Male international airport you’ll be ushered to your resort’s – in this case the Four

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Seasons – own fleet of speedboats, which whisk you across azure blue waters to your resort without even glimpsing a car, let alone riding in one.

Within half an hour Male, the main island of the Maldives, is a smudge on the horizon and you’re faced with a panorama of palm trees, blue skies, and schools of fish shimmering in the morning sunlight.

Kuda Huraa, my first island destination of the trip, is in the Male Atoll, which falls roughly half way up the sprawling country.

A private coral oasis – one of two in the area operated by the Four Seasons hotel group – it is littered with verdant gardens and flanked

24/10/2012 12:00

Travel Words - Matt Hussey

This page: Landaa Giraavaru’s inviting waters. Opposite: al fresco dining doesn’t get any better than on Kuda Haraa

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Travel

on all sides by a shallow lagoon giving the island a turquoise halo. The first thing you notice upon arrival is the absence of any discernible noise, bar the gentle lapping of waves on sandy shores. It took a good two days for my ears stop straining for the low din of traffic or other mechanical noise.

I was whisked to my villa nestled above the turquoise lagoon via golf cart – there are no cars on the island. With such a spectacular backdrop it’s not difficult to make the accommodation feel special, but the dark wood furnishings, outdoor shower, L’Occitane toiletries and complimentary bottle of wine on ice was a nice touch. Each villa has its own mini-jetty onto the lagoon where you can idle away a few hours watching sharks and stingrays glide effortlessly past your room. I was going to have no problems relaxing here.

No sooner had my bags been discretely deposited in my room than I was back at the hotel’s main jetty, boarding a boat

heading out to the bay to witness the local dolphin population’s evening hunt. Going from the arrivals lounge at Male airport to being surrounded by more than 100 dolphins in clear waters in less than an hour was bordering on the surreal.

There are many aspects of the Maldives that will surprise. The first is that its average ground level above sea level is under five feet – and the highest point is just seven feet ten inches – making it the planet’s lowest country. Environmentalists are rightly concerned about rising sea levels.

The second is the island’s growing reputation as one of the finest surfing destinations in the world.

Thanks to its unique geography, sea swells travel thousands of miles across the Indian Ocean, meeting the shallow reefs to create perfect surfing conditions. At the time of my visit, the hotel was hosting the Four Seasons Maldives Surfing Champions Trophy, an invitation-only event for the

Below: a luxury Kuda Haraa villa.

Right: it’s blue as far as the eye can see on Landaa Giraavaru

“Going from arrivals to being surrounded by dolphins in less than an hour borders on the surreal ”

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world’s greatest surfers. The hotel itself has its own surf school, which despite my proven track record of poor balance, I managed to stand up and move in the right direction within an hour.

After a brief crash course in surf lingo, a language I still had difficulty with, I was whisked by speedboat to Sultan’s Point.

I managed to mistake one of the surfers’ anecdotes of “men in grey suits” – sharks to you and me – as a piece of commentary on surfing’s increasingly corporatised outlook by replying with, “why can’t big business leave some things alone?”

After the initial embarrassment, I got to witness five world champions battle it out across three rounds of surfing. As I learned earlier in the day, surfing is a sport that’s difficult to learn, and even more difficult to master – but the display of skill I witnessed would, to the uninitiated, make it look like anyone could do it.

The favourite and last year’s champion, Australian Mark ‘Occy’ Occhilupo wasn’t in contention this year as fellow Australian surfing legend and two-time world champion Damien ‘Dooma’ Hardman narrowly pipped three-time world champion Tom Curren, an American who pulled off a dazzling display in difficult conditions.

“Surfing with Occy and Pottz [Martin Potter], and staying at the Four Seasons Kuda Huraa, it’s like a dream come true,” said Curren.

“One of the best parts about surfing here is that everyone is capable of going home with some good waves to brag about to their friends. Whether you are a beginner or have been surfing since you could walk, the Maldives consistently produces fantastic waves to surf on,” says Chris Prewitt, one of the excellent surfing coaches who helped me overcome my inept sense of balance.

Another big draw is the scuba diving and snorkelling. Borrow a mask and fins from the hotel and you can swim amongst coral straight off the beach. Alternatively, divers can head out to the hotel’s reef to see sea turtles, sharks and hordes of tropical fish – all just a ten-minute speedboat ride away. It was as if the Maldives were built so that everything was at your fingertips.

After three days of soaking up the serenity of Kuda Huraa it was off to the Four Seasons’ bigger, more remote resort, Landaa Giraavaru.

It’s four times bigger than Kuda Huraa, allowing lush forest to grow in the interior and giving the island a dense, green skyline.

Nestling in the rainforest are 102 secluded villas, with private access to the beach.

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Travel

A big part of the Four Seasons’ presence in the Maldives is conservation. In both resorts marine biologists specialise in the rehabilitation of turtles damaged by fishing vessels. The release of a rescued turtle is an emotional event, the footage of which can be found online – and guests are invited to be a part of it. It’s a fantastic way for visitors to learn more about these beguiling creatures.

After a night’s stay at Landaa, it was back to Kuda Haraa, and a visit to its celebrated island spa. To get there you board a dhoni – a traditional Maldivian boat – which transports you across the blue lagoon. It was probably the most blissful three hours I’ve ever had – lying under the stars and being pampered by candle light, with nothing but the gentle lapping of the sea as a backdrop.

By the end of my stay I’d been swimming with sharks, learned more than I could ever know about turtles, caught the surfing bug, ate stunning food and come away from the Maldives realising it wasn’t just a place for

honeymooners looking for some postwedding relaxation. Of course, the islands cater for that, but it would be unfair on this turquoise oasis to be labelled as just a lounging spot.

The Maldives are as close you’ll get to an idea of paradise; but with the global climate threatening its fragile existence, the need to protect this island chain becomes greater than ever.

How to do it

Rates at Four Seasons Resort Maldives at Landaa Giraavaru start from £800, per room per night, on a bed and breakfast basis in a sunset water villa with pool (including tax). For reservations please call 00800 6488 6488 or visit

fourseasons.com/maldiveslg

Rates at Four Seasons Resort Maldives at Kuda Huraa start at £668 per room per night, on a bed and breakfast basis, based on two people sharing, including all taxes. For reservations please call 00800 6488 6488 or visit

fourseasons.com/maldiveskh

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05/10/2012 09:35

Gaydamak Words - Hannah Silver

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Paris-based Gaydamak may be youthful, but this sister act’s fresh ideas mark the brand as an innovator, not a follower

Think outside the jewellery box

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Gaydamak frostoflondon.co.uk

t’s rare for a jewellery brand still in its infancy to break from tradition and rewrite the rule book, but Parisbased Gaydamak has done just that. The three-year-old company, comprising Sonia and Katia Gaydamak, sisters who share a passion for unorthodox design, is taking fine jewellery in a new, thrilling direction Born in Paris to Russian parents, the Gaydamak sisters were brought up to embrace the unexpected. Sonia sees their parents’ heritage as something that had a positive effect on their upbringing: “We always thought differently. We knew Paris was a great chance for us. Being in exile, creating a new home and speaking a different language all helped to take us in a new direction.”

This thirst for different experiences saw the pair travel, seeking out taught inspiration elsewhere.

“We both studied in New York,” says Sonia. “I did a masters in history and Katia interned for a diamond dealer, where she created award-winning designs.

I became interested in jewels and attended gemology lessons, which made me realise I wanted to do something with diamonds.”

Katia’s design skills and Sonia’s gemological knowledge saw them team up back in Paris, creating a company called Privé, which later became Gaydamak.

At first, their collections didn’t stray far from convention, encompassing standard pieces like earrings, rings and bracelets.

“Our mum, whose opinion we hugely respect, was very complimentary of the jewellery and thought it was beautiful, but she did tell us we hadn’t invented anything,” Sonia admits. “She said our challenge was to try and do something different, and that’s exactly what we did.”

And so one of the most innovative new concepts to hit the jewellery market – the hand bracelet – was born. The eureka

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“Mum said our challenge was to try and do something different, and that’s exactly what we did.”

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moment came when Katia was playing around with a bracelet that was too big for her wrist, moving it around so the gem-set design sat on top of her hand, while the bracelet ran across the palm. After wearing the bracelet like this for a while, the intrigue it sparked among friends convinced them that they’d hit on something special.

“Technically, it was a nightmare for us,” Sonia says. “It took us a year and a half to get the right shape and proportions, and it was so frustrating to think you had it right then have to start from scratch again. Now, though, it’s our best seller and it’s what we’re known for.”

These pieces come in a variety of designs, including a snake in white gold with diamonds, an iguana in rose gold with rubies and a beautiful leaf design in black gold, also encrusted in diamonds.

Although sold worldwide, they are particularly popular in Arabic countries where religious dress codes restrict bare wrists. The ability to adorn hands with

beautiful bracelets is an enormous boon for these potential buyers.

Of course, while the hand bracelets are incredibly popular, they’re not the only exceptional Gaydamak pieces. All of their jewellery tends towards the unconventional, whether it’s earrings that can be worn as a necklace, or quirky combinations of jewels and precious metals. For example, the brand’s first collection, 1802, was inspired by an unusual source.

“We named it that because it’s the year Napoleon created the Legion of Honour medal,” Sonia explains. “We saw the medal itself in a fascinating book on ancient history and thought it would make beautiful jewellery. For us, jewellery has to be unconventional because it expresses what you are as a person, whether that’s original, funky, classic. You may not always express that with words, so it has to say things you wouldn’t.”

The sisters admire established jewellers but see Gaydamak as a leader, not a

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Gaydamak frostoflondon.co.uk

follower. “There’s plenty of beautiful jewellery around, but we tread our own path. You can be young, creative and innovative without repeating what others have done. I’m respectful of the past and history, but we’re going forwards.”

Competition doesn’t faze them, although copies irritate. “It’s unfair, and it makes me angry,” Sonia says. “I hear other people claiming that they have also produced hand bracelets. Maybe they have, but we’ve never seen them.”

The most important thing for them both is that their jewellery is worn across the divides, whether that’s age or nationality.

“Our customers range from the wives and daughters of Russian oligarchs, to Brazilian hipsters, to New York business

women,” Sonia reveals. “It’s very international. We design the pieces for us, so to have people from other generations wear it is great.”

Gaydamak is popular with celebrities too, from the Kardashians to Alicia Keys, with the latter wearing two of the brand’s bracelets at the recent MTV Awards.

This increasingly high-profile following points to an exciting future for Gaydamak.

“Something every designer dreams of is having their own stand-alone store, with their name above the door,” Sonia says.

“But I don’t know, maybe it’s too soon.”

Given the Gaydamak brand’s astronomical ascent to date, we would put good money on this dream becoming a reality sooner than she thinks.

Quick questions: Sonia Gaydamak If you weren’t a jewellery designer, what do you think you would do?

I’d be a geek, working in Silicon Valley with Apple or Facebook.

When and where were you happiest?

My proudest and happiest moment was when my sister told me she wanted us to work together.

What watch do you wear?

A Rolex Daytona. It’s a beautiful, classic piece.

What do you do when you are not working?

It never happens – we work all the time.

How would you liked to be remembered?

Katia and Sonia Gaydamak, sisters who share a passion for unorthodox jewellery design

As a brand that has brought something totally new to women. Something thrilling and liberating.

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01/10/2012 11:34

Ah, Britain: fish’n’chips, afternoon tea, red telephone boxes, rain, Mary Poppins, watchmaking, roast beef, warm beer – hang on, watchmaking? This is no wind up, says Alex Doak

Rule Britannia

Best of British Words - Alex Doak

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Rule Britannia

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t was one of the most phenomenal meetings of Roger Smith’s life. Stood on a doorstep in remote Isle of Man shaking with nerves, the pale and awkward 26-year-old Bolton lad rang George Daniels’ doorbell and waited, clutching a small wooden box.

Seconds later, the world’s greatest living watchmaker opened the door and ushered Smith inside gruffly.

“For the first five minutes, he just carried on with his paperwork,” says Smith, “shuffling things around the kitchen table, while I stood in the corner terrified, thinking, ‘This isn’t good’."

“He eventually muttered, ‘Well, have you got a watch?’ So I handed him the box. You could cut the atmosphere with a knife.”

Reluctantly, Daniels took out the pocket watch to which Smith had dedicated the last five and half years of his life, and started

turning it over and over in his hands. “He didn’t say a thing for what seemed like an eternity,” Smith recalls, “then he asked whether he could open the back. And the questions started…”

“Who made your tourbillon carriage?” asked Daniels.

“I did,” replied Smith.

“So who made your detent?”

“I did.”

“And your escape wheel?”

“Me,” came the quivering response.

“So who’s your casemaker?’

“I made the case myself,’ Smith replied.

Suddenly, Daniels snapped the case shut, and his face transformed; it lit up. With a huge grin he looked at Smith and said, “Congratulations, you’re a watchmaker!”

And thus, the future of traditional British watchmaking was secure.

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“every single component save for the glass and hairspring painstakingly crafted from the bare metal ” Smith was immediately recruited as Daniels’ only-ever apprentice and 15 years on, he is still on the Isle of Man running his own workshop of six, making a mere ten examples of his own wristwatch per year – every single component save for the glass and hairspring painstakingly crafted from the bare metal.

Smith has also assumed responsibility for the now-late Dr Daniels’ final legacy: a series of 35 watches marking the 35th anniversary of his greatest invention, the Co-Axial escapement, which many consider to be the biggest leap forward for horology in two centuries. (So much so, it’s now the standard mechanism for Switzerland’s venerable brand, Omega.)

There’s a very good reason Smith can only turn out a handful of his exquisitely crafted £87,000 watches per year: “We work totally differently from anyone else,” he says. “We’re

not churning them out like the Swiss; we’re trying to preserve traditional handcrafted techniques; we’re making wristwatches that are up to the standard of old 18th- and 19th-century English pocket watches.

“Ultimately, I suppose, I want to put some of the ‘making’ back into ‘watchmaking’.”

It’s not as far-fetched as it sounds. Long before ‘Swiss Made’ became the solely recognised badge of horological quality, London rather than Geneva was your first stop for a decent watch. Hans Wilsdorf even established his little-known company there in 1905 – renaming it ‘Rolex’ in 1908, after listening to the noise his watch made when he wound it one day, sat on a London bus.

In fact, by all accounts, British watchmaking was what originally put ‘Great’ in front of ‘Britain’; what once made every schoolboy’s atlas predominantly pink; and what is now

inspiring a fresh upsurge of new and revived watch brands.

Beyond some significant early advances in clockmaking, marine chronometers were what the Brits excelled at. Following John Harrison’s remarkable leaps and strides in answering the pleas of the Board of Longitude [see page 88] a stream of London-based characters with names like Tompion, Graham, Mudge, Earnshaw, Arnold and Dent all turned out increasingly precise and robust timekeepers over the 18th and 19th centuries, which ensured reliable navigation at sea, and meant Britannia ruled the waves – at least for a while.

While Smith ploughs his particular furrow on the Isle of Man (few others in the world, let alone Britain, are capable of making watches his way), we are currently witnessing a surge of activity back on the mainland, with more and more homegrown brands capitalising on the

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In sleepy Stamford a fi rm of extraordinary watchmakers has crafted an entirely English-made, hand-wound, mechanical wristwatch. The 39mm case is hewn from Sheffi eld stainless steel and turned on English lathes. The traditional English movement is engraved with acanthus leaf and fl owers, where the head of each fl ower contains a sparkling jewel. The movement is the same design that Sir Edmund Hillary wore to conquer Everest.

Robin is a limited edition of one hundred signed and numbered watches. Elegance and discretion combine to tell no more than an Englishman’s watch should do – the right time.

www.robertloomes.com Tel: 01780 481319

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Rule Britannia

booming interest in watches and the British reputation for such things.

It kicked off when the Edward John Dent name was bought in 2005 by a London-based consortium. Its Swiss-based workshop now turns out a range of mechanical wristwatches in tribute to the brand’s illustrious past – a past that involves one Charles Darwin, whose Origin of Species wouldn’t have been written without HMS Beagle’s on-board Dent, and the explorer HM Stanley, who was moved to write to Dent: “the Chronometers supplied by you, and which were taken across Africa in my last Expedition, proved a very great service to me and were in every way thoroughly satisfactory and reliable”.

Everyone’s favourite modern Dent is the square-faced Parliament model, echoing the world-famous Neo-Gothic clockface of Big Ben, whose vast mechanism was made

and installed by Dent in 1859. A more recent model, the cushion-cased Denison even boasts an English-style ‘in-house’ movement, but Britain’s horological revival is still far too young for this to be made on these shores. Instead, that is down to Swiss think tank Les Artisans Horlogers (interestingly, just down the road from the Swiss reincarnation of Arnold & Son – a trailblazing London watchmaker who teamed-up with Dent in 1830).

As Dent’s CEO Iain Hutchinson attests, we’re still a long way off homespun, proprietary manufacturing capabilities.

“Dent is making an effort to invest back into the watch industry in Britain by working with British movement designers to create our inhouse calibres,” he says, “but I don’t think the time is right just yet for the funding to be put up to re-establish watchmaking in the UK.”

“Ultimately, I suppose, I want to put some of the ‘making’ back into ‘watchmaking’”

One brand who thinks otherwise is Bremont, the most successful of Britain’s new guard. Since its exuberant founders, brothers Giles and Nick English burst onto the scene in 2006, their rock solid, no-nonsense pilot’s watches have won widespread acclaim – and not just from patriotic Brits. Military airmen the world over have ordered special editions for their squadrons, including the covert U2 spyplane pilots, who wear the shockproof MBII model that Bremont developed with ejector seat boffins Martin-Baker.

Business is good and with a boutique in Mayfair now open, plans are firmly in place to assemble 100% of their output from their new workshop in Henley-on-Thames by the end of the year. The English brothers are in no hurry to switch from the Swiss chronometer movements they currently source from Swatch Group’s ETA – after all, says Nick, “Would you fly over the North Sea during winter with a newfangled ‘in-house’ engine produced by a new aircraft manufacturer?

We wouldn’t…” – but their eyes are definitely on the horizon.

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“When we started out,” says Giles, “our motivation was always to make a Made in England watch. That’s still our aim, and what we’re working hard to do. As a watch company your ultimate aim is always to build your own movement, to be a truly independent and integrated ‘manufacture’.”

Thanks to Bremont’s success, the way has been paved for several other young and thrusting brands who aren’t ashamed of using Swiss movements and outsourcing things like case and dial making. As long as the quality’s there and the price is reasonable, people are eager to invest in British enterprise and, most importantly, a British vision.

Christopher Ward is one such brand, whose crisply designed watches represent remarkable value for money. A far smaller outfit – two men in a Sussex studio, in fact – is newcomer Schofield. Their cool Signalman watches (think science-fiction lighthouse) have been a labour of love for founder Giles Ellis, but one he’s embraced with relish.

“Number one cost me £175,000,” he reveals.

“It was 4,000 hours manpower alone. As a result it became prohibitive to make a single watch and the business expanded accordingly.

I’m now sold out for the foreseeable future.”

Ellis’s background as a graphic designer, plus stints in musical instrument repair and bespoke amplifiers mean he’s obsessed with detail – not only concerning the watch itself and its components’ 30 different suppliers, but every touch point of the business; logos, packaging, straps, websites, photography, even the accompanying toolkit whose screwdrivers Ellis makes himself. It’s totally coherent, very different, but still tangibly ‘English’.

“I wanted the theme of my watches to be tied up in the coastal English thing, as that’s where I grew up. But Englishness is a nightmare to define – it’s a set of ideas more than anything, I think. My business partner and I are English, all the decisions are made

by Englishmen and it’s an English brand. If we could have made the watches in the UK, we would have done!”

One man who does think that’s possible, however, is another lone wolf who has devoted years to developing his own first watch. His name is Robert Loomes and for under £3,000 he will sell you a brand-new, 100% ‘Made in England’ wristwatch.

A watchmaker and dial restorer based in Stamford, Lincolnshire, Loomes has with

dogged determination tracked down English companies who were not only capable of producing the things he needed, but also happy to produce them in industrially irrelevant numbers – his ‘Robin’ watch is limited to just 100 examples. There’s the Sheffield engineering firm who rented out a lathe and operator to make the cases, the Cambridgeshire acid-etching facility who made the hands and a local satellite-lens manufacturer who produced his flawless dial glass. Even the movements are English.

“Yes, we use 1950s Smiths of Cheltenham ‘12-15’ movements,” says Loomes, “which we re-finish, engrave, gild, re-jewel, fit new springs, and so on. They’re from a jeweller who had many hundreds in his store.”

So has Loomes proved that Britain could have a legitimate watchmaking industry once again? Up to a point – specifically the point where we run out of new-old-stock movements. “I could start my own ‘in house’ engineering division to make my own,” he says, “but the cost would be staggering. We would have to sell 20,000 units a year for many years to make it all happen…”

But what all of these new enterprises prove is that Britain undeniably possesses the talent, the ambition and diversity of product for things to start snowballing. Millions of pounds isn’t such a daunting cost for certain savvy capitalists; it’s only a matter of time before the right investment is made and the Swiss are reminded of who once ruled the waves.

“I wanted the theme of my watches to be tied up in the coastal English thing”

took his lifetime to convince the government-funded Board of Longitude otherwise, who had their hearts set on the archaic and convoluted ‘lunar distance’ stargazing method.

After building three prototypes, inventing caged roller bearings and the bimetallic strip in the process, and undergoing his fair share of hairy voyages on the high seas, Harrison’s fourth attempt, the ‘Watch’ or ‘H4’ John Harrison: reaped at least some of the The man who started it all Board’s promised £20,000 bounty in 1773, going on to As many would know from reading Dava Sobel’s bestselling save countless souls and even aiding the discovery of some book Longitude, it took a new colonies. humble Yorkshire carpenter Back then, however, a to revolutionise the existing, good marine chronometer and dangerously inaccurate cost approximately 30% means of maritime charter. of a ship’s total cost and it John Harrison rightly believed was down to the efforts of that chronometry (an accurate Harrison’s descendants to time standard to which the refine the chronometer into local noon is compared) was a mass-producible product. the only way to feasibly gauge It is these descendants who your longitude at sea within inspire Britain’s new flourish half a degree (latitude being of watchmaking talent. a cinch by comparison). But it

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In conversation: Christopher Ward

“If the Swiss watchmaking industry was a stick of rock it would have the word ‘snobbery’, or maybe ‘pretentious’, running right through it.” Christopher Ward, one of the three founders of the eponymous British watchmaker, is as refreshingly honest and direct as his business model.

“Part of the reason for our success,” he continues, “is that we cut away the mystique, the smoke, the mirrors and the hype surrounding the industry.”

What this means is that, from the launch of the company’s first watch in 2005, Christopher Ward has sought to bring ‘affordable luxury’ to everyone.

Swiss-made watches, then, but sold at a price that puts them in reach of the majority, rather than the few. Indeed, one of the biggest challenges the company faced was addressing the perceived wisdom from potential buyers that quality watches had to be reassuringly expensive.

“I came from a retail background, so I know about product mark-up, but I was amazed to find that luxury watches sell for ten times, and sometimes thirty times, what it costs to manufacture them.

It took a while to convince potential buyers that we could deliver top quality for the prices we charged.” But convince them he did. Indeed, so enthusiastic

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are Christopher Ward owners that, in 2005, a group of them set up an online forum devoted to discussing the watch brand.

It now has 5000 members and over 100,000 website threads.

“It’s all organic, Says Ward.

“We’ve never posted on it. The integrity and honesty of the site is amazing. Later this year, for the first time, we’re honouring some of the most active contributors by bringing them to a master class in watchmaking, hosted by Johannes Jahnke, who built our C900 Mono pusher.”

Indeed, it’s this elegant bicompax chronograph that has truly set out the company’s stall as not just a manufacturer of quality watches at competitive prices, but also the creator of unique proprietary in-house complications. Available in a limited run of 250, Ward describes it as his favourite watch to date.

Collectable, affordable and quality – Christopher Ward is truly flying the flag for British watches.

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British watch special

Who’s who in British watchmaking

01

01 Arnold & Son's watchmaking pedigree goes back 250 years 02 Rolling Stone Ronnie Wood rocking a Bremont 03 Christopher Ward's stunning C900 04 One of Big Ben's smaller Dent brothers

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01 Arnold & Son

With watchmaking roots that date back 250 years – John Arnold was one of the watchmakers who tried to tackled the thorny issue of longitude at sea – today’s watches combine legendary English efficiency with a classically elegant appeal. Among the timepieces of note are a tourbillon, a Deck Marine Timekeeper, a GMT, a triple-time-zone watch and a Longitude Timekeeper, all created in the tradition of technical ingenuity and innovation.

arnoldandson.com

02

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02 Bremont

An award-winning brand producing beautifully engineered chronometers, the Bremont founders’ background in aviation is reflected in their highly developed aviationinspired watches. The stunning white SOLO piece has recently been sported by Tempus’s editor.

bremont.com

03 Christopher Ward

Charles Frodsham

Look out for a new wholly English-made watch from this venerable watch and clock maker next year, featuring the legendary Daniels double escapement.

frodsham.com

Amazing watches at a staggeringly low price – Christopher Ward has gone from strength to strength since launch in 2004. Its latest piece, the single pusher chronograph complication is one of the most significant watches to be launched by a British watchmaker this year.

christopherward.co.uk

04 Dent London

Thousands of people every year flock to take as picture of the most famous Dent, London’s Big Ben. Nearly 200 years after the company first launched, the company name remains a mark of horological excellence.

dentlondon.com

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13/09/2012 14:41

British watch special

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05 Graham

With its bold, quirky designs and robust nature, Graham’s watches are built for action but always with a twist of English eccentricity. The beautiful Tourbillongraph and Chronofighter collections are perennial favourites in the Tempus office.

graham-london.com

05 You can spot a Graham watch at 50 paces

06 Robert Loomes

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Entirely English-made watches, all of which are strictly limited edition, and created by a longestablished brand of watchmakers. Each watch proudly bears the ‘Made In Britain’ logo.

06 The painstaking

construction of a Robert Loomes Robin 07 The expert hands of Roger Smith at work 08 Schofield watches are future cult classics

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robertloomes.com

07 Roger Smith

Watchmaking raised to a high art, Smith designs and builds all his own watches, including components, from start to finish. To do so, he has had to master 32 distinct trades – requiring decades of study and application.

rwsmithwatches.com

08 08 Schofield

Great design and incredible attention to detail are the hallmarks of the Schofield brand. The brainchild of watch designer Giles Ellis, it has already picked up something of a cult following among the watch cognoscenti.

schofieldwatchcompany.com

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Ski special Words - Hannah Silver

slide and chic

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24/10/2012 12:23

Ski special

For a more organic approach to skiing, sublime chalets and rejuvenated nightlife, Switzerland is the coolest European destination to hit or many winter sports aficionados, Switzerland offers the best skiing in the Alps. Unlike skiing in France, for example, few resorts are purpose-built but instead have evolved organically, as chocolate-box pretty spots set in valleys or perched among the mountains. Demanding runs appeal to the most advanced skiers, while the famously excellent hospitality means the traditional resorts are a joy to visit. And the nightlife, although once rather staid, is now hugely improved, particularly in spots such as Saas-Fee, Engelberg and Verbier. Here we highlight some of the country’s offerings for those seeking a home from home in the Swiss snow.

Zermatt Chalet Zermatt Peak

From an entrance that’s tunnelled into the rock, Bond-style, to glass-roofed bedrooms and a stunning indoor/outdoor pool, Chalet Zermatt is seriously impressive. Floor to ceiling windows flood the living room with light and offer jaw-dropping views of the Matterhorn, while three cinema rooms and a ski room with surround sound cements the chalet’s technological credentials.

firefly-collection.com

Bernese Highlands Bergwelt Grindelwald

Buried in the heart of the Bernese mountains, the Bergwelt Grindelwald development gives a rare chance to purchase (or rent) a beautiful chalet in this prime ski location. Grindelwald is a long-established village that offers visitors an authentically rustic and rural experience, with easy access to the slopes that surround the valley. The chalets blend beautifully into their surroundings, crafted in the alpine style of traditional wood and featuring bespoke decoration inside.

hartmannsingleton.com

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24/10/2012 12:23

Ski special

Gstaad The Alpina Gstaad

Grimentz Chalet Gentiane

The Alpina Gstaad is the first new luxury hotel built in Gstaad in 100 years. The hotly-anticipated hotel may have a respectfully classic exterior but the luxuries inside are up-to-the-minute, with highlights including a Six Senses spa, cigar room and Japanese restaurant, Megu. Built of stone hand-cut by Swiss craftsmen and with alpine herbs in the gardens, it promises to be a breath of fresh air in traditional Gstaad.

For an authentic old-school skiing experience, Chalet Gentiane is hard to beat. It’s found in the heart of a hamlet of chalets and looks out to the incredible Imperial Crown of 4,000m mountains, with its terrace offering panoramic views from both the lounge and master bedroom. The three additional bedrooms all have separate doors to the garden area, plus an in-resort concierge can take care of everything from lift passes to restaurant reservations.

rentalprestige.com

thealpineagstaad.ch Verbier Aphelie 204

Aphelie 204 has great access to the perfectly groomed slopes of Verbier.

A sauna and large living area make this chalet a great party house, but those seeking a little solitude can find plenty of cosy, quiet corners to curl up with a good book.

agence-eugster.ch

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Verbier Real Estate - A stunning investment +41 27 771 39 71 visits@contact-immobilier.ch

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www.contact-immobilier.ch

19/10/2012 09:39

Ski chalets

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Own a slice of ski paradise If you’re looking to invest in alpine property, here are two of the best Andermatt The Chedi

Eagerly anticipated ahead of its opening in winter next year, The Chedi Andermatt (pictured) promises ultimate luxury throughout its ski hotel and residences.

Potential buyers can expect a fully-serviced hotel residence in a stylish contemporary design, with excellent skiing guaranteed. For the uninitiated, Andermatt boasts the Gemsstock, a 3,000m-high peak much loved by hardcore off-piste skiers.

andermatt.ch

Verbier

Sometimes renting is not enough and there is no more beautiful investment than buying in Verbier. Think of it as a safety deposit box with the bonus of challenging skiing, great nightlife and an awe-inspiring view. In these times of quantitative easing and competitive currency devaluations, buyers enjoy the certainty of owning a little piece of Switzerland. And it’s far more fun than investing in government bonds.

The Swiss, being a sensible bunch, restrict foreigners to owning one property and you may only resell it after five years. They like their investments to be long-term. Sound

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advice is to buy the best that you can afford.

It might feel like you are paying plenty for that perfect view but, when you come to sell, it will be worth it.

Currently you can find a wonderful one-bedroom flat in the centre of town for £500,000 or you could go much bigger and get yourself a six bedroom chalet overlooking Verbier on the side of the piste for a heady £6m. Whatever you choose, Verbier is a canny investment for ski lovers and speculators alike.

If you’re interested in buying in Verbier, go to contact-immobilier.ch

24/10/2012 12:24

SWITZERLAND Quality living

Discreet and bespoke service for the acquisition of property in Switzerland

Tel: +44 (0) 1 845 597 795 info@hartmannsingleton.com www.hartmannsingleton.com Please contact Mr Beat Hartmann

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08/10/2012 09:09

Ski special

Zermatt

switzerland’s 5 best ski resorts St. Moritz

Klosters

Gstaad

Gstaad may not offer the most advanced slopes, but they’re varied enough to keep intermediate skiers happy. It is, however, the most elegant resort to be found in the Saanenland region and rightly famous for its social scene, with music festivals and incredible hotels and restaurants making it a perennial favourite among the jet set. It also offers some of the best boutique fashion shopping in the Alps. gstaad.ch

Swedish and British royal families love this intimate, unspoiled resort that offers easy access to the Gotschna-Parsenn and Madrisa skiing areas.

Its winding woodland trails provide thrills-aplenty for even the most advanced skiers. klosters.ch

Skiing at St. Moritz is suitably impressive, but it’s the extras that really make this resort. There are a host of less orthodox winter sports on offer, including snow golf, snow polo on the lake and the famous Cresta Run (a natural ice run used for tobogganing) which draw the crowds, while the most plentiful collection of four and five star hotels in Switzerland make for world-class restaurants and spas. stmoritz.ch

Verbier

Experienced skiers will love Verbier’s miles of off-piste options and dozens of red and black runs. The ski area, the Four Valleys, is the largest in Switzerland and has a maximum drop of 2,509m, all with stunning views of Mont Blanc to the west and the Matterhorn to the east. The area is just as famous for its apres-ski options, with a deserving reputation for offering some of the most glamorous – and expensive – nightlife around. Foodies, meanwhile, should make tracks for Michelinstarred Chalet d’Adrien. verbier.ch

A location at the base of the Matterhorn means the skiing at Zermatt is high-altitude and plentiful. Three of its four sectors go up over 3,000m, offering a wealth of fabulous skiing opportunities.

This vibrant ski town also boasts some of the world’s best mountain restaurants – Chez Vrony and the Adler being the standouts.

The cable car trip up to the Klein Matterhorn is also a must-do for its panoramic views. zermatt.ch

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24/10/2012 12:25

Luxury chalets rentals in Courchevel 1850 with a five star service that matches attention with discretion

+33(0) 662 998 029 info@courchevelprestigechalets.com www.courchevelprestigechalets.com

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09/10/2012 09:12

Town and country

Stephen Jones checks in to the hottest hotel in London’s financial heartland You think you’ve seen good service. And then you stay at a Four Seasons hotel. The level of guest care here is so good it is staggering.

From the moment I walk in, I’m treated like a high profile guest who’s just alighted from a Bentley, as opposed to a black cab.

Set in a ten-storey building in the heart of Canary Wharf, it runs the risk of assimilating itself into its rather bland surroundings. However, it successfully combats this with slick design – thanks to Philippe Starck – and home comforts.

Attention to detail means rooms are modern and stylish, with plush leather window seats, black-walnut furnishings and stunning riverside views.

Of course, one of the best things about all the Four Seasons hotels are the facilities.

This one features a beautiful heated infinity pool surrounded by floor-toceiling windows overlooking the Thames, a great spa and fitness centre and access to Virgin Active’s floodlit tennis courts next door. The Quadrato Bar is a destination in itself, beautifully decorated and with a great cocktail list that kept every member of our party happy.

While this could easily be just another business hotel in the already-heaving financial district, great extras and a sense of style elevate it above the rest and make it the perfect place to stay, whether for work or play.

Oh, and did I mention the service?

A particularly nice touch was the notice under my door the next morning informing me that the Jubilee line was down. Back to reality then, but with some fabulous memories of a great night in one of the capital’s coolest hotels.

www.fourseasons.com/canarywharf

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24/10/2012 15:24

Town and country

Scott Manson discovers grandeur in the unlikely setting of Luton In terms of enticing prospects, telling your partner that you have planned a romantic weekend getaway to Luton is surely the first nail in the coffin of any relationship. Luton Hoo hotel may be just outside the town, but is a world apart from its urban sprawl.

A Grade I listed mansion with east and south fronts planned by the renowned 18thcentury architect Sir Robert Adam and its 1,000 acre grounds designed by Capability Brown, this is one beautiful hotel. There’s been a house on the site since 1763, when John, third earl of Bute, bought the site of a Tudor manor. Since then, it’s been in the

hands of various minor royals before being bought by Elite Hotels, who subsequently spent millions restoring it to its former glory.

Strolling around the ravishing interiors, it’s easy to imagine yourself a guest of a titled lord or lady, wandering through a stunning parade of public rooms that culminate in an exotic dining room. It’s a popular place, too, with the vast downstairs rooms packed with people taking afternoon tea.

There are plenty of outdoor distractions, from angling to golf. We played a round on the estate’s 18 hole course, which meanders from the shadows of mature trees to sweeping open ground and back again. The last few holes channel us towards the hotel, demanding accuracy off the tee to avoid the beech trees overhanging the fairways.

Heading up the graceful curving staircase, the beautiful Mansion House bedrooms finally dispelled any Luton-based misgivings my partner might have had. With views over the Italianate gardens, a four poster bed, original plasterwork and a beautifully appointed bathroom, it was every inch as opulent as the rest of the house.

A helpful concierge highlighted plenty of nearby places of interest, but when you’re staying somewhere this grand, my advice is to enjoy every gilt-edged second of it.

lutonhoo.co.uk

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24/10/2012 15:23

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11/09/2012 12:16

01 Maison Francis Kurkdjian Cologne Pour le Soir Cologne Pour le Soir has an exotic aroma thanks to its infusion of Bulgarian and Iranian rose honey, making this a suitably seductive choice for after-hours carousing.

£130, franciskurkdjian.com 02 Czech & Speake

Neroli Neroli is one of the lighter winter scents, evocative of bitter orange and zesty fruit, balanced with ylang ylang for a truly heady mix.

£70, czechandspeake.com 03 Creed Fragrances

Spice and Wood A beautifully dark scent, Spice and Wood has a fullbodied base of African iris, cedar, musk and oak moss.

Top notes of lemon and Italian apple keep it fresh.

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£400, creedfragrances.co.uk 04 Penhaligon’s

Eau de Cologne An incredibly fresh scent, Eau de Cologne has a classic citrus aroma, complemented by ripples of orange and rosemary, and is presented in Penhaligon’s signature bottle.

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£110, penhaligons.com

05 Serge Lutens

Ambre Sultan Ambre Sultan was inspired by a piece of amber offered to Serge Lutens on his first trip to Marrakech, which he then kept in a thuya burr wooden box, forcing the two scents to mingle. The end result is deep, rich and highly fragrant.

£69, sergelutens.com

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All the right notes Our pick of the best classic colognes for men

24/10/2012 12:31

Fragrance

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24/10/2012 12:32

99 of a kind

Following on from the success of the GyroDec Odyssey, we are delighted to be introducing the new limited edition Gyro SEduction Finished in the unique ‘blue steel’ and black finish, the Gyro SEduction combines many of the upgrades offered to the standard Gyro SE such as HR Power Supply, matching record clamp and black TechnoArm. With only 99 units available world-wide, be quick to secure your unique opportunity to own this Gyro SE Super Deck.

For further information or to find your nearest stockist, contact

Tel: 020 8953 0771 / E: info@michell-engineering.co.uk www.michell-engineering.co.uk

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23/10/2012 12:13 19/10/2012 18:47

Motoring Words – Kyle Fortune

Forget Lego. This ex-racer has built his own dream car Nobody wants to make a five-door hatchback. Every man – and it’s always a man – who makes their own car makes a supercar. The latest is Alojoša Tušek, a Slovenian ex-racer who found Italian and German supercars somewhat lacking when driven on track. Rather than moan about it, Tušek decided to build his own car instead.

Actually, that’s not entirely true: Tušek used a kit car as a basis, though has done some significant re-engineering to make it his own.

The Renovatio T500 is longer, wider and, importantly here, has a 450hp 4.2-litre V8 engine borrowed from

Audi in the back. A smattering of carbon fibre body panels help keep the weight down to just 1,133kg, meaning that V8’s 450hp isn’t too troubled in its task of making the T500 fast. And it is. Very.

Yet it’s not the raw speed that’s the thing that excites Tušek – it’s the car’s lateral G figure of 1.7G. That means it’s quick in the corners and on the track, where the ex-racer wants you to drive his creation.

He’s realistic: he knows his car isn’t perfect, but admits that those who want a Ferrari or an Aston Martin will have one already. This isn’t a competitor to such cars, it’s an

addition. It’s something to take to the track – the purchase price includes ten track sessions over the first two years – and drive. Hard.

The T500 has been engineered to take slick tyres, has carbon ceramic brakes and little, read nothing, in the way of driver aids. Here’s a supercar that shifts the paradigm back to when it was all about you driving it, not just some clever electronics. It all works too, the T500 feeling spectacularly sorted for a car that its creator still refers to as a prototype. Tušek’s goals are modest and achievable. He wants to build 30 cars for like-minded, wealthy drivers.

He should, as it’s really rather good.

Slovak supercar

Price £242,600 Performance 0-62mph (0-100km/h) IN 3.7 seconds Top speed 192mph+ (300km/h+) Engine 4.2-litre V8 petrol Transmission 6-speed manual, rear-wheel drive Construction Spaceframe chassis, carbon fibre body

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24/10/2012 12:34

Technology Words – Alex Pell

Clearaudio Innovation Wood Turntables are, in many ways, akin to watches in the sense that they represent a triumph of industrial design as much as fulfilling a pragmatic purpose.

When choosing one that both looks and sounds beautiful, there are few better places to begin than with Clearaudio, as this German brand offers an entire range of class-leading models that start from £1,200. The Innovation Wood is, however, its most exotic option without getting into the realms of kit that might require a small crane and a second mortgage. The basic deck costs about £6,000 but more than doubles once partnered with Clearaudio’s top carbon fibre tonearm and its Da Vinci V2 cartridge. For this, you get a wonderful objet d’art that showcases a whole host of world-class engineering ideas. These include a ceramic magnetic main bearing and the inclusion of Panzerholz wood – also employed in the armour plating of tanks – to minimise friction or vibrations. What matters is that this turntable is able to match its stunning looks with jaw-dropping sound quality in a way that actually makes it seem solid value overall. Other decks may cost even more than the Innovation Wood, but none are comprehensively better.

£13,000, clearaudio.de

Decks appeal

The last word in super-cool, high-end wheels of steel

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Onedof Turntable The Onedof turntable (which stands for One Degree of Freedom) is the brainchild of former NASA engineer, Aleks Bakman, who worked on the Phoenix Mars Lander. Unlike other so-called super-turntables, which require extensive structural supports, the Onedof is designed to be freestanding.

What you are paying for here is seriously exotic technology, such as a self-centring platter bearing in liquid suspension and on-thefly motor position adjustment.

Though a prototype has been demonstrated, each model would, apparently, be made to order – which is something of a risk given that this is the price of a sports car. That said, it’s got to be a wax addict’s dream date.

Roksan Xerxes 20 Plus Roksan is content to let the sound quality of its Xerxes model speak for itself. Despite its traditional appearance, this deck features some of the most radical turntable technology ever made – it’s just that Roksan lets these sit beneath a classically styled exterior.

Once partnered with the firm’s own Shiraz cartridge and matching tonearm, the music it produces is startlingly punchy and engaging.

The Xerxes has been sold in one form or another since 1985, and this 20th anniversary edition proves it is still top dog for vinyl lovers.

£6,000, roksan.co.uk

£92,500, onedof.com

Michell GyroDec Say hello to the Michell GyroDec, which features a striking combination of aluminium or bronze support-columns housed on an acrylic chassis. This deck can be upgraded to Michell’s top-end Orbe model, but this would cover up some of the more visually pleasing design elements. A basic version, SE, is available without the fancy acrylic casing for half this price, but it’s wiser to ante up the full £2,000 and partner it with Michell’s own TecnoArm. How does it sound? Immaculately rich and detailed, of course.

£2,000, michell-engineering.co.uk

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24/10/2012 12:42

Moments in time

Friends in high places What better brand ambassador than Barack Obama? Upon receiving the Jorg Gray JG6500 as a birthday gift from his Secret Service detail in 2007, he then wore it at the Democratic nomination in Denver, his victory speech in Chicago, Inauguration Day and the G20 summit in London.

Since ownership of this high precision chronograph movement with its solid steel case and matte black dial instantly puts wearers in the same club as the most powerful man in the world, it’s little wonder that the timepiece has racked up millions of sales since President Obama first sported it in public.

jorggray.com

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19/10/2012 16:28