Tempus 05

Chronoswiss / Secret London / German watch special / Jason of Beverly Hills / Superyachts / Michelin-starred Madrid / Space tourism / Aston Martin Vanquish / Brad Friedel ISSUE

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Engraved gold version of the first CORUM automatic baguette-shaped movement.

+44 (0) 1256 862 068

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info@corumwatches.co.uk

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www.corum.ch

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Linear-winding automatic movement, 18K red gold case with sapphire crystal sides and back.

108 New Bond Street | London W1S 1EF | www.frostoflondon.co.uk

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www.shamballajewels.com

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Explore the Energy of Creation

Limited Edition Raw black diamond, Colombian Emeralds and 18K Rhodium plated white gold

108 New Bond Street | London W1S 1EF | Tel. 020 3372 0108 www.frostoflondon.co.uk

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Frost of London 108 New Bond Street, London, W1S 1EF TEL: 020 3372 0108 www.frostoflondon.co.uk

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25/04/2012 11:32

Foreword

issue

five Contributors

From the editor Editor

Scott Manson

scott.manson@astongreenlake.com 020 3617 4693 Art Director

Ross Trigg

ross.trigg@astongreenlake.com 020 3006 2122 Writer

Hannah Silver

hannah.silver@astongreenlake.com Business Development Director

Mark Edwards

mark.edwards@astongreenlake.com 020 3617 4688 Senior Account Manager

Tom Pettit

t.pettit@astongreenlake.com 020 3617 4689 Financial Director

Stephen Jones

Managing Director

Jay Boisvert

Tempus is published monthly

by Aston Greenlake Ltd, 8th floor, 6 mitre passage, london se10 0er.

TEL: 020 3617 4688

When I first started out in journalism, an old editor of mine gave me a piece of advice that has stayed with me forever. “The best writing,” he said, while puffing on his 30th cigarette of the day (editorial offices were something of a health hazard in those days), “is defined by clarity, simplicity and purity.”

In other words, journalists should strive to write copy that succinctly puts across ideas and sums up debates without being long-winded or unnecessarily complicated.

I mention this stripped-down aesthetic as it’s also the hallmark of many of the watches manufactured in Germany, which we feature this issue. Companies such as Nomos, based in the sleepy town of Glashütte, that eschew trends in favour of timeless classic designs where form is driven by function. It’s about as far as you can get from the ‘iced-out’ bling championed by some watch brands and is a style that should be represented in any serious timepiece collection.

On the flipside, though, this issue also sees watch expert Ken Kessler reveal the best pieces to wear after dark.

When the lights are low and the champagne is in full flow, we select the watches that will make a suitably bold statement in the best clubs.

Elsewhere, we catch up with controversial jewellery designer Jason Arasheben, get the story behind seminal watch brand Chronoswiss and investigate the various companies currently offering space tourism trips. We are, sadly, still waiting for our invite from Branson to review Virgin Galactic’s inaugural spaceflight…

Enjoy the issue.

Scott Manson Editor

Ken Kessler Renowned watch journalist Ken Kessler turns his considerable expertise to the world of evening wear watches, on page 36.

Jonathan Young Jonathan Young has edited The Field, the world’s oldest country magazine, for 21 years. He has shot all over the world and, on page 83, celebrates the start of the British shooting season.

Hannah Silver While specialising in luxury for the likes of the Daily Telegraph, journalist Hannah Silver enjoys writing across a wealth of topics. This month, she looks into space as the next highend travel destination, on page 82, and soaks up Michelin-starred Madrid on page 108.

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Turbine Xl, A1050/1 Technology of the Double Rotor.

Made by movement

www.perrelet.com

108 New Bond Street, London, W1S 1EF Tel: 020 3372 0108 www.frostoflondon.co.uk

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Contents

Inside issue five

12 Take Me There

56 Bling of the Hills

All eyes are on Monaco as the millionaires’ playground hosts the Yacht Show

Jewellery designer to the stars, Jason of Beverly Hills, reveals his fascinating journey 62 A Capital Affair

15 Luxury Briefing

Style on the streets of London

Because, it turns out, the best things in life aren’t free, after all

70 The Chronoswiss Chronicles

A look behind the Swiss brand that’s wowing the aficionados

21 Food and Drink

Where to eat, drink and be merry

76 Form and function

24 On the scene

Tempus joins Jacob & Co for a gala dinner

Our German watch special starts here

The men behind the brand

25 Frost of London

Why space is the next luxury break destination

28 The Word

88 The Glorious 12th

Ken Kessler on the mystique of Rolex; James Lohan on boutique hotels

82 The Final Frontier

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Where to shoot this season 95 Great Expectations

32 Call of the Wild

The spotlight is on Aston Martin’s new super grand tourer

36 Coming Correct

Our resident expert helps with hair loss

43 The Hide You Seek

The best speaker systems out now

Turning the spotlight on Frost of London’s incredible jewellery

96 Grooming

The right watch to wear at night A celebration of the most luxurious leather accessories

98 What’s Up Dock?

Cover: Chronoswiss skeletonised DLC Zeitzeichen

46 White Heat

In conversation with Chris King, head chef of London’s Roux at the Landau

105 Secret London

Lifestyle concierge The Anonymous picks the best under-the-radar places to go

50 Fashion and Accessories

Exclusive adornments 53 Good Times

Tottenham Hotspur goalkeeper Brad Friedel on life in the Premier League

101 Free Thinkers

We look at the yacht interiors that are breaking the rules

Special thanks: Charlotte Johnson @ThePressOffice Eamonn McCabe www.ejmccabe.com

108 Michelin-starred Madrid

Gastronomic delights in Spain’s capital city 114 Moments in Time

Yohan Blake and his Richard Mille

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14/08/2012 16:29

Take me there

The millionaires’ playground of Monaco, on the French Riviera, plays host to the upcoming superyacht event of the year, the Monaco Yacht Show With its azure waters, stunning coastline and fabulously luxurious hotels, this picturesque area is already a firm favourite for some late-summer sun with international jetsetters.

The annual celebration of super and megayachts, though, also makes September the perfect time to check out the cream of the world’s nautical innovators.

With around 28 000 professional and private visitors

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per show, and companies such as Hunton, Sunseeker, and CRN showcasing their latest concept ships, it’s also a fantastic opportunity to check out virtually every luxury brand on the planet, all of whom set up camp here for the week. Quite simply, it doesn’t get much more glamorous than this.

The show runs from 19-22 September monacoyachtshow.com

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TM

For Information please contact: GBA Pen Company LTD Tel: 01245.225758

www.montegrappa.com

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13/08/2012 11:20

Luxury briefing

Because the best things in life aren’t free

Shine on Breguet One of only two timepieces released

by Breguet this year, the Crazy Flower is perfectly suited to the summer months. Entirely paved in diamonds, the bracelet is set with 120 baguette diamonds, while the dial at the heart of the flower contains another 206

brilliant-cut diamonds, with an additional 66 around the edge. The signature hands have been manually shaped so they are parallel to the dial’s curve, making this dazzling watch a technical masterpiece.

breguet.com

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Luxury briefing

Paint it black Mercedes-Benz C63 AMG Black Series How much is too much? It’s a question that obviously never bothers the boffins at AMG, who periodically drop a Black Series model to test exactly that. This one - based on the C63 AMG Coupe, previous models having been based on the CLK, SL and SLK - takes the already heady 457hp of the standard car and increases

it to 510, reducing the 0-62mph time to 4.2 seconds and upping the lunacy.

Harder, faster, more focused, it’s what the Black Series models are all about.

The performance is incredible, turning an already amazing car into something very special indeed.

mercedes-amg.com

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Imperial unit Arnold & Son Begun by John Arnold in the 18th century, Arnold & Son has an impressive history: the accuracy of the company’s No. 36 model was such that it was the first timepiece in history to be called a chronometer. Napoleon Bonaparte was a fan and owned an Arnold clock. The company’s HMS1 range preserves its commanding reputation by focusing on elegant design combined with traditional craftsmanship. The 18-carat rose gold watch comes in a limited edition of 250 pieces, while 100 gold models are also available.

frostoflondon.co.uk

Script genius Montblanc In tribute to the greatest of Spanish painters, Montblanc has released the Artisan Edition Pablo Picasso Limited Edition. Made in a restricted run of 39, in honour of Picasso’s 39 paintings and drawings of his muse Sylvette David, they are a slice of pure desktop inspiration. Available in either solid gold or solid white gold, with special touches including a Montblanc diamond on the cap and a rhodiumplated nib decorated with an engraving of a Picasso drawing.

montblanc.com

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Luxury briefing

Finest flowering Dayekh Dayekh has unveiled what might be the world’s most dazzling diamond, its innovative D Brilliant Cut. This special cut sees a master polisher transform the rough stone into a 16-sided, 105-faceted gem. The stunning diamond has a flower pattern on the pavilion, rather than the usual arrows, which splinters the light into more frequencies, creating the most radiant sparkling effect yet.

dayekh.com

Sport luxe Audemars Piguet Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak has been a benchmark for sporting elegance since its birth 40 years ago.

To celebrate its anniversary, the company is releasing a special edition chronograph dedicated to Lionel Messi, arguably the world’s greatest footballer. Sidestepping tradition, an alligator strap replaces the usual steel bracelet, while the watch is available in steel, pink gold or platinum mixed with glinting blue-grey tantalum, a rare, super-strong metal. The chronograph houses a self-winding movement with 304 components, making it as technically impressive as AP’s permanent pieces.

audemarspiguet.com

At the double Apsley Tailors A bespoke suit is worth waiting for, but sometimes the usual three-month turnaround at Savile Row is just not convenient. Since 1889, Apsley has been the tailor of choice for the army and Royal Navy, as well as, more recently, Fulham and West Ham United football clubs. With a perfectly fitted suit delivered to you in a matter of weeks, this is sharp tailoring for the man in a hurry. apsleytailors.com

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108 New Bond Street | London W1S 1EF | www.frostoflondon.co.uk

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Food & Drink

Trends and news from the best bars and kitchens epicuriosity

Robbie Pepin, head chef at Il Ristorante at the Bulgari Hotel & Residences in London What’s your background?

I worked with Alain Ducasse in Monte Carlo and opened his restaurant in Tuscany, L’Andana.

I learned a lot from him – he’s one of the best chefs in the world.

What is your signature dish?

Something Mediterranean – I’m half Italian and was brought up over there. My seafood salad with fresh almonds is beautiful.

What sort of boss are you?

I’m strict sometimes during service, but very professional. We have 16 chefs in the kitchen, so it’s quite hard to control them all at the same time – you have to put your foot down a wee bit.

What is your greatest achievement?

South Sands Hotel This is getting ridiculous. We’ve only been sitting in the restaurant of the South Sands hotel in Salcombe for five minutes and we’ve already spotted two advertising agency creative directors, the publishing director of Marie Claire magazine and a top City lawyer. I don’t know what is more tragic – the fact that we have all gathered in the same restaurant in the same picturesque corner of south Devon, or the fact that I have spent the first ten minutes of a romantic meal gladhanding a bunch of business contacts while my wife is forced to make nice with their respective partners.

If Brighton is Soho-by-the-sea then Salcombe is surely Britain’s answer to the south of France. Impossibly cute, and filled with wealthy second-home owners, this waterside haven is the perfect

Reviewed by Scott Manson place for a boutique hotel that is the last word on Cape Cod-style coastal chic. Sitting flush on the blue-flagged South Sands beach, the eponymous hotel’s restaurant offers signature dishes created by chef Mitch Tonks (who is to Devon what Rick Stein is to Cornwall) including crayfish crostini and a wonderful lobster served with garlic butter and fat chips. A crisp sancerre proves a well-judged accompaniment, while a generous plate of west country cheeses, taken on the outdoor sun terrace, is the perfect end to an unforgettable meal. If you’re looking for excellent local cuisine, without unnecessary cheffy stylings, served in one of England’s most exquisite seaside locations, the South Sands is hard to beat.

Working with Alain Ducasse and then moving to London again after 15 years to work with Bulgari – the restaurant and bar are truly spectacular.

What advice would you give to a young chef ?

Get all the hard work done while you’re young. Sixteen-hour days are too much when you get to 50.

Get on with it now!

bulgarihotels.com/london

southsands.com

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14/08/2012 15:49

Food & Drink

RosÉ reconsidered

Roast

by Peter Dean

Rosé is one of the great wine enigmas. On holiday it tastes like the essence of life itself, washing down chargrilled sardine, onion, feta and salad. Take a bottle home, though, and it is imbued with notes of flatness and disappointment. It is as if the wine’s composition – young, unpretentious, easy-going – mixed with its fruity, refreshing, low-tannic flavours sums up the spirit of holiday.

But there are signs that rosé’s status is changing.

France, incredibly, now sells more rosé than white, and there some exponents who bring the same care and attention to it that you would a serious red or white. Producers such as Sacha Lichine have pickers with sticks of dry ice in their baskets, rigorous temperature control throughout manufacture, much longer maceration and bottles priced at £100 a pop.

This summer, rosé is where it’s at.

Reviewed by Ross Trigg

When it comes to fine dining, the provenance and quality of ingredients is the mantra of every chef.

Fortunately it’s something that Roast restaurant doesn’t have to worry too much about. Based above the artisan foodie heaven that is Borough Market, the Roast chefs have the pick of London’s larder to choose from. The food market itself – one of Britain’s oldest – is a truly magical place.

Housed under the crisscrossing railway lines heading in and out of London Bridge station, the market echoes with a buzz of city life. Yet strolling around the stalls, you feel like you are cocooned within a warm, comforting, countryside bubble.

It is a feast for both the senses and the palate.

High above this inspiring space sits the elegant iron and glass structure of the restaurant, providing a fitting location to enjoy the view. This includes a new addition: London’s latest landmark, the Shard, towers over the market to the east, with St Paul’s dome to the west.

This is resolutely not Le Gavroche-style fine dining, but it is beautifully simple food, cooked perfectly, and served in an iconic setting. Hand–dived, corn-fed, anchovy-rubbed, hay-baked – the menu stresses the produce sourcing and painstaking processes involved, while avoiding any unnecessary frills that might frighten off the casual diner.

Before visiting, I’d been eyeing up the menu online and had spent the day dreaming of the daily special – roast rare breed suckling pig with mashed potatoes and bramley apple sauce. Its clean, explosive flavours blew me away, each distinct in their own right and tasting exactly as I’d imagined in my desk-side reverie. My companion’s dish, the herb-roasted Launceston lamb neck fillet, served with organic spelt, lemon and herb salad and cucumber yoghurt was similarly impressive, combining punchy, beautifully tender meat with light, summery accompaniments. Roast is, quite simply, the best of Borough Market on a plate.

A bunch of rosés

Chateau D’Esclans, Garrus, 2008 Seriously good at any temperature and with any food. Made from 80-year-old grenache vines, it’s the brainchild of Sacha Lichine, who left his inherited Bordeaux chateau to focus on rosé. It’s dry, mineral, creamy and fruity. £92.29. bibendumfinewine.com Domaine Ott, Clos Mireille, Cote de Provence, 2011 Made from a blend of grenache, cinsault and syrah, this has a complex mouthfeel with strong flavours of apricot and grapefruit.

A perfect accompaniment to shellfish or salmon in dill. £28.50. davy.co.uk Tavel Cuvée Prima Donna Rosé, Domaine Maby, 2011 Richard Maby took the reins of the family estate in Tavel seven years ago, making wines that burst with red fruit, and offer a crisp, dry finish within a balanced palate. £9.50.

Thewinesociety.com.

roast-restaurant.com

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Gold and diamonds, from 570ÂŁ - www.messika-paris.com

Tempus_MESSIKA 11/05/12 11:56 Page1

Move Collection

108 New Bond Street, London W1S 1EF Tel : 020 3372 0108

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11/05/2012 15:01

Out there

On the scene The Tempus team hit Monaco to celebrate thirty years of Jacob & Co’s jaw-dropping jewellery and timepieces, at a dazzling gala dinner. Diane Kruger, Adrien Brody and Joshua Jackson were just some of the notable guests who admired the New York-based jewellers’ collection in the Hotel de Paris.

Back in Britain, Tempus did a spot of entertaining of its own. The likes of John Carew popped into the summer party we threw at London hotspot Jalouse, where the drinks flowed long into the night.

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Frost of London

Dino D’Auria, director

From left: Dino D’Auria, Joseph Banin and Ariel Banin

Joseph Banin, director

London’s most forward thinking watch and jewellery retailer, and a partner of Tempus, owes its success to three founders. Here we reveal more about the men behind the brand

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“I started at in the jewellery business when I was 18, while still at university.

My dad worked in the business but he made me begin at the bottom. I spent valuable time casting, mounting, manufacturing, polishing and so on.

“After a few years, more and more clients were requesting high-end pieces.

It was time to make a change, so we came up with a name – Frost of London – around the notion of diamonds being ‘frosting’ – and then opened our store on April Fools’ Day 2009, in the middle of the worst recession in living memory, on one of London’s most expensive streets!

“Our instincts were good though, and we captured the imagination of a new, younger breed of watch and jewellery lover. They come to us for limited edition pieces, like the Corum watch we recently customised with black diamonds, and brands that no one else stocks.

We keep ahead of the game by finding the watches we think will be big in four or five years’ time, the ones that could become the new AP or Richard Mille.

Trend-wise, we’ll see watch sizes decrease to 44mm or 45mm. There will also be a continued hunger from the far east for coloured stones, always in the top clarities and cuts. They’re increasingly hard to find, but we have our contacts …”

“I came from a sales background and got to know Joseph and Ariel when we met in Vegas. Ariel whizzed us past a queue at a club called Rain, before setting up a neverending stream of vodka, Red Bull and cranberry for our VIP table. It was at this point that I thought, ‘I like the way these guys roll.’

“Our connection to customers is key.

It’s never a hard sell with us. People pop in, play a bit of PlayStation, have a drink.

If, say, the footballer Michael Essien beats us on a videogame, we give him a free Jacob belt or whatever. If we beat him, though, we get four tickets to a game.

It’s a very relaxed way to do business.

Show me another Bond Street jeweller where the owner deals with you personally and, crucially, where you can kick his butt on a PlayStation.

“Our customers are seriously clued-up about watches. They have such a passion and this inspires us to find them the latest, greatest timepieces. There’s an element of risk-taking, in that many of our brands are non-traditional, but our customers know that we are bang on it when it comes to sharp trendspotting.”

Ariel Banin, director

“I almost became an economist in the City, but the lure of watches and, of course, working with my brother, proved too great. Our turning point was definitely meeting Jacob Arabo [of Jacob & Co] at a jewellery exhibition in Vegas, around 2002. He had a tiny stand with one prototype watch on it, which cost £11,000. We bought one from him and, a year later, David Beckham wore it and everyone wanted one.

“Being on Bond Street means we get quite a few celebrities popping in. Don’t get me wrong, we’re not sitting around all day sipping champagne with A-listers – we all work long hours six days a week – but over time we’ve got to know a few of them pretty well. These guys are strong early adopters of up-and-coming watch brands, and we have a great eye when it comes to spotting timepieces that we know will go down a storm with them.

“Right now, subtlety seems to be coming back. Like the black-dipped Corum watch that Joseph mentioned or the black-on-black DLC-coated, modified Rolexes that we stock. Black is back, for sure. On the flipside, look out for a brand called Devon. Their watches are insane.

Not subtle, but truly stunning.”

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Illustration - Ross Trigg Ken Kessler is a journalist and watch expert

There’s no escaping Rolex’s status as the most famous watch brand in the world – upscale watches, that is. Casio’s G-Shock and the omnipresent Swatch probably register more highly with under-25s, but for sheer status, Rolex remains the brand of choice for golfers, car dealers and gangbangers/crack addicts out to steal your watch.

Oh, and collectors.

Why so disparate a fan base? It’s not as if Rolex has promoted its wares with the hustler ethic of most high-visibility brands, who’ll shower their watches on any Z-lister snapped by a paparazzo for some tabloid. When Rolex runs an advert, you can bet the individual is someone classy, an achiever worthy of the brand, such as Roger Federer or Sir Jackie Stewart or Kiri Te Kanawa. No perma-tanned Wags for this lot. Rolex has never had to court the social detritus.

Instead, it has spent a century making superb watches with a refreshing resistance to the complication du jour: Rolex has, as far as I can tell, never bothered with minute repeaters or tourbillons or other features that serve mainly to excite watch journalists with attention deficit disorder. Instead, it makes watches that serve a purpose, like showing pilots a second time-zone, ensuring divers do not run out of air, or enabling mountaineers to keep time in extreme cold.

That’s not to say Rolex has eschewed bling. This company is not stupid: if its clientele insist on a leopard skin dial, Rolex will oblige. Square-cut emeralds on the bezel? Yes, sir. But inside even the most eye-wateringly vulgar Rolex beats the same superb movement as found in the watches worn by Comex divers, the Royal Marines or Red Adair. Compare that with a £50,000, gem-encrusted watch that contains a £3 quartz movement, and you’ll understand the Rolex mindset.

Connoisseurs and burglars alike adore Rolexes because the company has never wavered from its philosophy, so its watches seem not to depreciate. Any firsts it claims are worthwhile, like the GMT. Its latest complication enables rapid time-zone setting via the bezel.

Rolex prices are high, but not obscene. If anything, it is one of the most honest watches money can buy. An Air-King remains my default suggested purchase for anyone after a fine watch. Beautifully free of frills, it is a watch for life.

Long before product placement and paid ambassadors were the marketing norm, Rolex attracted cultural icons, who bought their own: Marlon Brando, Fidel Castro and Che Guevara owned GMTs. Martin Luther King. The Byrds, BB King, Elvis Presley, Bill Wyman and Bryan Ferry. Style guru Stephen Bayley. Hunter S Thompson.

And far too many others to name-check them all.

Paul Newman and Steve McQueen were so closely associated with the Daytona and the early Explorer II that they are now known, respectively, by the actors’ names. And although Seiko, Omega, Breitling and other watches have appeared in the films, Ian Fleming put a Rolex on James Bond’s wrist – probably because he was wearing one when he wrote Casino Royale.

Buy a Rolex, and you’ll have it forever. You will meet people who consider it ugly, déclassé or common, probably because it is the most recognisable high-end watch on the planet. Which is why it’s also the most faked, and coveted by social climbers who have yet to learn of or appreciate Vacheron Constantin or Patek Philippe. But while anyone has the right to disrespect a Rolex for subjective reasons such as styling, or their sheer ubiquity on golf courses and car forecourts, only a moron would question the quality. After all, when’s the last time you heard of a mugger stalking someone to steal their Gucci watch?

Ken Kessler The bulletproof mystique of Rolex

The Word

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Illustration - Ross Trigg

It looked easy when we started. In 2002, boutique hotels stuck out like well-manicured thumbs; in a sea of bland chains, corporate obelisks and chintzy B&Bs, stylish, one-of-a-kind hotels were few and far between, and a cinch to identify. You could tell the moment you set foot in the lobby: coherent, comfortable and innovative design; staff who treat you like a friend; inspiring settings, intimate atmospheres – authentic, card-carrying boutique.

It’s a heck of a lot harder now. Today, every hotel and its “luxury self-catering annex” calls itself boutique. The big chains have grown boutique arms, 100-room giants have cultivated the style and sensibility of much smaller properties, and every wannabe hotelier is bulk-buying Farrow & Ball. In my more cynical moments, I wonder whether the word boutique is an excuse to type an extra zero in when drawing up room tariffs.

But, when the cynicism subsides, I realise that for every proprietor piggybacking on a ten-year-old trend, there’s someone channelling their inspiration into something genuinely new and exciting.

A couple of months ago, Mrs Smith and I were in Budapest, and were blown away by Brody House, a six-room hotel and members’ club that complements its impressive 19th-century architecture with eye-opening works by up-and-coming Hungarian artists (take a shine to anything and you can buy it). It’s a creative, heartfelt place, true to its location, and most importantly brilliant value.

Things are hotting up closer to home too. We’re London-based, so have been bed-ridden with Olympic fever. It’s thrilling to see the renaissance of East End neighbourhoods such as Hackney and Bethnal Green, once-gritty areas that are now hotbeds of creativity in everything from art to food. Bethnal Green’s old town hall is a beautiful building, and, like Brody House, it’s had a striking interior makeover to turn it into Town Hall hotel (also home to Nuno Mendes’ groundbreaking and Michelin-starred restaurant Viajante, where I learned that duck tongue is not, as I’d thought, a Victorian mouth disease).

Down the road on Redchurch Street, Soho House group’s eastern outpost Shoreditch Rooms is still well ahead of the game and is totally tapped in to the ever-evolving local scene. This is what characterises innovation in the hotel world: not big chain hotels acting small, but small hotels thinking big, and drawing on their locale for ideas.

As much as it pains me to admit it, though, I don’t spend nearly as much time as I used to in search of the next hotel trend. If ten years of sending couples away on romantic weekends has achieved anything, it’s hundreds of little Smiths. As we’ve all got older and acquired families of our own, we’ve become interested in – dare I say it? – family travel. For some, stylish hotels and kids go together like antique wallpaper and Crayola, but there are plenty of hotels out there that prove it’s possible to have a great time as grown-ups and know the little ones are enjoying themselves too. Which is why my next big thing is stylish family-friendly stays, and why I’ve spent the last few months of my life hotel-hunting with my children in tow. Look out for the Smith & Family collection later this year – hotels that combine two of my favourite things in life: style and babysitters.

James Lohan is the founder and CEO of Mr and Mrs Smith, the award-winning boutique hotel guide and website

James Lohan The real meaning of boutique

The Word

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Objects of desire

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Call of the wild Exquisite jewellery with a dangerous streak. Handle with care

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Frost of London Frost of London is a jeweller like no other, and it was inevitable that the company’s eponymous jewellery range would reflect their spirit of youthful swagger and vigour. This captivating mix of intricate rings, earrings and gloriously off-the-wall pendants are not for the faint-hearted and a world away from the floralstyle pieces currently so popular with other jewellery makers.

“These are real statement pieces,” says Frost director Joseph Banin.

“We’ve created something that instantly grabs the attention and, with only one or two pieces of each style available, they are truly unique.”

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01 18k white gold large diamond cross skull £27,300 02 18k white/rose gold

diamond pig cufflinks

£7,550 03 18k white gold

diamond tiger ring

£30,800 04 18k yellow gold,

diamond panther ring

£9,500 05 18k white gold

diamond skull drop earrings

£5,350

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108 New Bond Street, London, W1S 1EF Tel: 020 3372 0108 www.frostoflondon.co.uk

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04/07/2012 09:31 02/07/2012 16.11.17

Coming correct

The midnight hour In the latest in our series, Ken Kessler finds the perfect watches for modern city nightlife, where taste and exhibitionism are no longer mutually exclusive, but true star quality is as rare as ever

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Coming correct

Disco diva Alicia Bridges’ sentiments could serve as the guiding motive for choosing the right accessories when the sun goes down: “Ooh I, I love the nightlife/ I got to boogie/ On the disco.” Forget the formality of black-tie affairs and embrace your inner lounge lizard – it’s time to break out the bling.

Attitudes have changed over the decades, with urban nightlife no longer tending towards one of two extremes, like Soho and Mayfair. The former – back in the day – was not a wise environment for wearing coveted watches, while an exclusive club (pre-Stringfellows) would have a clientele accustomed to donning slim Piagets, engraved Jaeger-

LeCoultre Reversos or a hand-medown treasures from Patek, Audemars or Vacheron. In the 21st century, it’s more Blade Runner than The Thin Man, flaming sambucas and mojitos rather than gimlets and old fashioneds.

Thanks to a number of influences, not least the contradictory yuppie values of the 1980s, showing off and exhibiting taste now go hand-inhand. Or hand-to-wrist, when we’re thinking of watches. Rappers, Chelsea-ites and Wags, even with their magpie-like lust for all things that glitter, aren’t happy with rhinestones, paste or diamante. They want the real thing.

It’s opened the door for a wave of watches from brands better known for jewellery, not that the jewellers haven’t been involved with timepieces since the very beginning: Cartier, the grande dame of jewellery houses, is credited with inventing the modern wristwatch, with the Santos of 1904, while Van Cleef & Arpels, Piaget, Tiffany and other celebrated maisons have long traditions in watchmaking. Graff, Harry Winston, De Beers, De Grisogono – every one of them will serve up gem-encrusted timepieces, with the added peace of mind in knowing that their collections consist of genuinely fine watches, irrespective of the bling.

Whether you prefer to engage in Madonna-esque voguing, high-fiving your buddies just so your sleeve drops down to expose your 18k Corum Golden Bridge, or simply engaging in good old one-upmanship, it’s

“If you have doubts about the peacock element in your gene pool, go Italian with an automotive flavour” Above: Meccaniche Veloci’s Luxury Quattro Valvole 48 Four Strokes.

Left: Corum’s beautiful Golden Bridge

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09/08/2012 13:54

Coming correct

possible to ensure that the exhibitionism doesn’t preclude quality. Think of Versace clothing – hardly subtle but certainly not shmatte. You can do the same with watches. Your only limitations are your budget and your ego, because these trinkets will certainly start conversations.

If you have doubts about the peacock element in your gene pool, go Italian with an automotive flavour, and let the size do the talking.

Meccaniche Veloci’s massive timepieces, like the Quattro Valvole Black Nite Lite, shows four time

“Artya’s Son of a Gun packs real bullets. This may be an issue at airport security”

zones, indicating the wearer’s nature as a world traveller – private jet, of course – but the paving of 2.20ct of diamonds add the glamour. Too much for your taste buds? Buy one without the gems.

Giuliano Mazzuoli’s impressive Manometro watches are styled after gas pressure gauges; check out the gilded Lingotto for a whiff of glitz.

If you’ve parked an Alfa Romeo in front of the club, consider the Contagiri, with Alfa cloverleaf logo: it looks like a rev counter.

Should you be partial to gangsta chic, there’s nothing as wild as Artya’s Son of a Gun collection. The timepieces contain genuine bullets, which raises the question: how do you get through airport security

wearing one of these? Less risky but no less adventurous are the company’s one-offs – no two alike, so you’ll be spared the embarrassment of wearing the same as someone at your table.

But think twice about explaining that Artya’s Coprolite dial is made from petrified dinosaur poo. Seriously.

If you find the notion of spending huge sums on showy watches a little unsettling, remember what nighttime is all about. The dark just begs for one of the new wave of all-black timepieces, stealthwear for the wrist.

Choose the watch and let a company like MAD make it totally sinister.

Just remember one thing: too black, a la Spinal Tap, and you won’t be able to read the time … until the sun starts to rise.

Above: Artya’s sixshootin’ Son of a Gun Original Steel. Top: Giuliano Mazzuoli’s Manometro Lingotto

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Original, limited-edition fine art posters by leading artists ‘HISTORIC FERRARI 1949 – 1974’ Our stylish Ferrari poster collection comprises original posters depicting classic road Ferraris of the period, as well as some of their most impressive moments on the track, including Le Mans, Monaco Grand Prix, Tour de France and the Targa Florio, amongst others.

View all 24 posters in this collection at www.pullmaneditions.com

‘ART DECO À LA PLAGE’ Our latest collection of Travel posters depicts a number of glamorous resorts along France’s legendary Côte d’Azur, including Beaulieu, St. Tropez, Monte Carlo, and Juan-les-Pins, amongst others.

View all 12 posters in this collection at www.pullmaneditions.com

‘ART DECO IN THE ALPS’ Our chic Winter Sports poster collection showcases a diverse selection of favourite Swiss and French Alpine resorts including Val d’Isère, Courchevel, Zermatt, St. Moritz, Gstaad, Chamonix, Verbier and several others.

View all 30 posters in this collection at www.pullmaneditions.com

Limited to editions of 280, our posters have been printed on 100% cotton fine art paper using traditional techniques.

They are signed, hand-numbered and bear our stamp of authenticity. Each poster is approximately 97 x 65 cms (38 x 26 inches).

Price: £395 each inc. VAT, unframed We ship worldwide.

Pullman Editions Ltd 94 Pimlico Road Chelsea London SW1W 8PL Tel: +44 (0)20 7730 0547 Email: georgina@pullmaneditions.com Web: www.pullmaneditions.com

To view all our posters, scan this QR code with your camera phone. Free QR code readers are available for download from your camera phone’s App Store.

All images and text copyright © Pullman Editions Ltd. 2012

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Hand crafted in England - like no other bags in the world

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10/08/2012 12:28

Leather special

The enduring appeal of leather stems from a primal instinct. Since man learned to hunt, animal skin has been used for protection and warmth. Leather goods tap into this primitive need, giving the owner deep, emotional satisfaction. No longer just the preserve of wallets, jackets and belts, a great range of accessories can now be crafted in high-quality, butter-soft skin.

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15/08/2012 09:04

Leather special 01 Ettinger

Renowned for its extensive collection of well-crafted leather products, Ettinger excels in producing debonair pieces for the modern gentleman. The company’s craftsmen use a variety of leathers, including bridle hide, fine calf and pig suede to give a luxe feel to practical products. This leather clutch, made especially for Blackberry’s Playbook, is a great example of Ettinger’s take on an everyday items with a luxurious touch.

01

£168 ettinger.co.uk

02 Sandqvist

Founded in 2004, Swedish brand Sandqvist is one of Europe’s coolest leather companies. Inspired by its Nordic environment, Sandqvist bags are made from full-grain, vegetabletanned leathers, which give them a natural feel. This Otto model will only get better with time, developing a beautiful patina as the leather ages.

Otto bag £270 sandqvist.net

03 Bespoke & Bound

Specialising in handcrafted luxury albums, Bespoke & Bound uses Italian bridle leathers and suedes to create beautiful pieces of craftsmanship.

The company combines artisan bookbinding skills with contemporary design, to produce classic albums.

They’ve even received a royal seal of approval, after making an album for the Queen. If they’re good enough for her, they’re good enough for us.

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From £350 bespokeandbound.com

04 Daines and Hathaway

British brand Daines and Hathaway uses both classic and contemporary leathers in its vast selection of accessories. The watch rolls (below right) are made from a variety of material, including printed lizard and earth black, and come fully lined, to ensure your timepieces are transported in a safe, stylish manner.

From £135 dainesandhathaway.com 05 Marlborough World

This well-crafted, brown croc-effect leather weekend bag from Marlborough World is built to last. Totally rainproof, it’s finished in smooth papaya leather, leaving the holdall velvety soft to the touch. Additions like a woven silk lining give a wonderfully indulgent finish.

£1,195 marlboroughworld.com

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09/08/2012 13:49 8/8/12 12:12:36

Food & Drink

White heat Words – Scott Manson

As a teenager, he wrote to Michel Roux asking for career advice.

Now Chris King, 29, heads up one of the most exciting kitchens in London – Roux at the Landau – based at the Langham hotel 046-047_Chef QA.indd 46

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Yours was something of an untraditional route to cheffing…

Yes, I did a degree in English, whereas most chefs’ further education consists of catering college. In my final year at uni, though, I knew I didn’t want to work in an office.

I only wanted to cook. My big break came when I wrote an email to Michel Roux, asking his advice on how to become a chef.

The Gavroche cookbook had just been released and I read it thinking: “This is a place where I’d love to work.” He emailed back immediately asking if I wanted to come in for a two-day work experience trial.

How much of a culture shock was that for you, after the relaxed world of university? I was absolutely petrified.

I hadn’t told Michel how little experience I had. I’d worked in kitchens before, good kitchens, but nothing approaching fine dining. The first thing that hit me was the smell, an unmistakable perfume of truffles, foie gras and other quality ingredients. Then I looked around and saw the size of the brigade, all looking very traditional in their tall chef ’s hats and old school floppy hats.

For the first few years, quite honestly, I felt like I was faking it.

How was Michel as a boss? Very demanding. He worked me hard. French classical cooking is very regimented – every cutting technique has a name, every vegetable should be chopped to a specific size. One of the many things he taught me was the value of precision.

Then you worked with legendary US chef Thomas Keller at Per Se in New York. How did his style differ from Roux? Totally different. Le Gavroche

is run very hierarchically, like an army. You do things without questioning why they have to be done in a certain way. You just do as you’re told and, eventually, you’ll work out why these tried and tested methods are the best.

Per Se, though, had an inclusive culture.

Every day we sat down and wrote the menu together. It’s one of the best restaurants in America and they have the pick of millions of chefs, which means everyone there is a mature chef at the top of their game. The guy who was a sous chef on the line with me became the head chef at Noma [voted the world’s best restaurant for the last two years], that’s the level we’re talking about.

What drew you back to England, and the Langham hotel? Heading up a

kitchen serving a beautiful, 150-year-old dining room at one of London’s best hotels was the clincher. My philosophy? I guess it would be take the best ingredients we can, and cook them simply and honestly.

This means food like our amazing lamb from Windermere which we do on the rotisserie and serve with homemade merguez sausage and roast aubergine.

Or seared squid with salt cod brandade – that’s a perennial favourite.

What sort of a boss are you? My crew probably hate me [laughs]. I’m quite

demanding. But I do try and explain why we do things in a certain way, like Keller did with me. I do my share of shouting, but it’s a demanding job and sometimes you need to give the guys a push. Looking back on it, the bollockings I’ve had over the years were all deserved.

Where do you eat when off-duty? Well, the last thing I want to eat is fine French food, after six days of cooking it. We go for spicy food – Asian, Vietnamese, Turkish.

I love Italian too. London’s Bocca di Lupo is superb. Zuma is also a great restaurant, and about as far removed from what we do as you can get. I love their attention to detail and the way they try and tell a story on a plate. Yes, it’s pricey, but you get what you pay for. There’s a reason that there’s no such thing as discount sushi!

Peruvian cuisine has become popular this year. Is there a particular form of regional cookery that you think is underrated and due for more exposure? East coast American. Lobster

roll, chowders, Maryland crab cakes, green goddess salads. I’d love to see more of that Barefoot Contessa-style cuisine.

Finally, is there a dish you’ve tried which made you think, ‘I wish I came up with that’? That’s easy. Vanilla crème

brûlée. Whoever invented that should have retired afterwards. Done properly, in a wide shallow brûlée dish with crunchy topping, it’s the perfect dessert.

“My crew probably hate me. I do my share of shouting, but it’s a demanding job and sometimes you need to give the guys a push”

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Fashion & Accessories frostof london.co.uk

01 Roberto Demeglio

04 Stefan Hafner

£9,250

£POA

18ct white gold ring, containing 5.3ct diamonds

White gold ring with diamonds and pink sapphires; part of the Bolero collection

02 Theo Fennell

05 Shamballa

18ct yellow gold and white diamonds ultimate protection necklace

18ct rose gold, hand carved and engraved grouse scene with black enamel cufflinks

£POA

£4,950

03 Corum

Admirals Cup Challenge 44 Rubber Chronograph.

Limited Edition of just 70 pieces worldwide

£6,150

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15/08/2012 10:19

M ESURE ET DÉMESURE *

TONDA HEMISPHERES Rose gold Automatic movement Dual time zone indication Hermès alligator strap Made in Switzerland

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PARMIGIANI • Tonda Hémisphères • Format: 240x300 mm • Magazine: Tempus (GB) • Calitho 05-12-74775 • Edition: 06.12

Good times Words – Scott Manson

Keeping time 53

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14/08/2012 17:21

Good times frostoflondon.co.uk

Tottenham Hotspur goalkeeper Brad Friedel on watches, inspiration and the thrill of the new season

Q The USA has a rich history of

producing great goalkeepers for the Premiership, from you to Tim Howard, Marcus Hannemann and Kasey Keller.

Why do you think that is?

In the States, I think we grow up playing a lot more sport that involve hand/eye co-ordination and good footwork. Baseball, basketball and American football all help you develop skills essential for goalkeeping.

Our school sports system also instills a mental toughness and a thick skin, which is important when you’re playing in such an exposed position, where every mistake you make is likely to be match-changing.

Q

How do you feel now your new manager, Andre Villas-Boas, is in charge?

Things are good. He’s very intense and very ambitious and keen for us to play attractive football. Every manager has a different style, of course, and it’s impossible for me to pick favourites. I’m in my 21st season of professional football and there aren’t too many I haven’t enjoyed playing under. There are a few, of course, but I’m not going to start naming names!

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Q

What about players? Who have you really enjoyed playing with?

Again, there are so many. Tugay Kerimoglu is an exceptionally gifted player and a great passer of the ball and Modric is an incredible player too. Michael Owen, James Milner, Steve McManaman, Gheorghe Haji, Dwight Yorke, Andy Cole – I have been lucky enough to play alongside some thrilling football players.

Q

And who is the most intimidating player to see bearing down on you?

I never see attacking players as intimidating; it’s more of a challenge. In their prime, Henri, Ginola and Cantona were always players that every goalkeeper had to be wary of.

Q

What’s been your most tense moment in the locker room?

Definitely during my time at Galatasary, during the local derbies, I felt some major pressure. I’m glad I got those games under my belt at a relatively early age, because the intensity of those games was immense. The crowd, too, is like no other – emotions run high and violence is commonplace.

Q

Do you have any regrets?

None. Everything happens for a reason – that’s my take on life.

Q

You’re 41 years old – do you have any plans for retirement? What about joining Becks in the MLS?

I’m just taking it one season at a time. I feel very good but I know at some stage I won’t, so I do need to plan for retirement.

I think time is against me for the MLS. The athleticism of the players in the US is very high, plus they play in the summer in some very hot locations, and there’s a lot of travelling. I don’t know if that would work for me. I never want to be a position where I’m not sure if I can cut it at the very highest level in my sport – I’ll bow out before that happens.

Q

What’s the secret behind your longevity?

No big secret. Steer clear of major injuries – shoulder, hip, knee – keep my weight down and train hard. Look at David James – he’s older than me and still playing.

14/08/2012 17:21

Q

How do you think Spurs will do in the Europa league this season?

We’re taking it very seriously, and obviously we want to win it. Andre wants to win everything. That’s our aim.

Q

You’ve had an incredible career.

What have been your highs so far?

On a club level, being part of teams that win trophies. Internationally, it would have to be the 2002 World Cup. We lost 1-0 to Germany in the semis, but we were the better team on the day and I know we could have made it to the final. It was our best showing in 72 years and there was such an amazing team spirit throughout.

Q The football commentator Alan

Hansen once described all goalkeepers as ‘a little bit crazy’. What’s your take on that?

Personally, I’m one of the most sane, mellow chaps you’ll ever meet. Remember, Hansen played alongside Bruce Grobbelaar, who was a very charismatic and eccentric individual.

Q

What inspires you?

It doesn’t matter at what level you compete, I admire anyone who works hard and reaches or exceeds their potential. I watch my eight

year old daughter playing sport, for example, and I am filled with admiration for the commitment and passion shown by her and her team. On the bigger stage, although I’m not British, I thought Mo Farah’s Olympic wins were truly inspirational.

Q

And what annoys you?

watches. I also own a Perellet, because I love the quirky design, and a Bulgari Sport. I used to have a Patek Philippe but I sold it. It’s just a bit old-fashioned and not really my style.

Oh, and a G-Shock, of course.

Q

Football players are well known for their love of fine cars. What sort of fleet do you have?

People who only watch a team play once a month but still have a very firm opinion about where they are going wrong and how to fix it. Armchair experts, basically.

I’m not much of a car guy. I’ve tried many over the years but have settled on the BMW X6, and Audi Q7 and an S Class Mercedes

Q

Q

In the US there is a ‘pay to play’ system that’s been introduced, the upshot of which is that only the kids with the richest parents can afford to be trained at elite soccer academies.

This just won’t work. We need top coaches brought in at a grassroots level.

I am the antithesis of the standard footballer player. I don’t really do fashion and I don’t do nightlife. I like playing golf, watching sport and spending time with my family.

If you were put in charge of football for a day, what would you change and why?

Q

As a watch magazine, we’re obviously interested in your timepiece collection…

Ah, well, I have a Rolex Daytona, with a black face and stainless steel strap and a Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph, with a white face. Both absolutely beautiful

Unlike some football players, you don’t seem to be one for glitz, glamour and nightlife. How do you relax?

Q

Finally, if you could be anywhere in the world right now, where would that be and why?

That’s easy. The One & Only Palmilla hotel in Los Cabos, Mexico. Azure waters, mountain backdrop, swaying palms, sailing and, crucially, great golf! If you need someone to write a review, look no further!

“It doesn’t matter at what level you compete, I admire anyone who works hard and reaches or exceeds their potential ”

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14/08/2012 17:21

Jason of Beverly Hills Words –Hannah Silver

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Bling of the hills

His only rule is that his creations don’t look like ‘other jewellery’. Is it any wonder Jason Arasheben is the most exciting name in town?

Jason of Beverly Hills

raditional, classic, understated - all qualities most would attribute to the finest jewellery.

There is one notable exception, though, courtesy of one of the industry’s most fascinating and divisive individuals: Jason Arasheben, who has rocked the jewellery scene to its core.

His eponymous brand, Jason of Beverly Hills, is unashamedly over-the-top, bold and jaw-droppingly daring. Arasheben is unrepentant about pushing the boundaries, saying, “My philosophy is to create new and exciting pieces. If any kind of piece reminds me of my grandmother’s jewellery I don’t want to be part of it. I have to have something eye-catching, something that if I tell my mum about it she’s mad at me for having made it. For me, that means I’ve made something really good.”

It was a passion for diamonds that led Arasheben to jewellery design. A true entrepreneur, he was studying to be a lawyer in 2003 at UCLA when he began a business selling plastic and silver trinkets on campus.

“I knew I had to do something myself,” he explains. “I slowly grew a huge fascination for diamonds and the mystery that surrounds

them - no two diamonds are the same and I love that. I just became enamoured with jewellery and design, then one thing led to another and I was in the diamond business.”

Of course, Arasheben is being modest. His early love of diamonds meant he studied them in every spare hour at college, educating himself in their many intricacies and subtleties. Late nights were spent hunched over a desk, hand-drawing original jewellery designs, with a burning desire to see these projects realised and, ultimately, worn by the world’s most forward-thinking collectors. His first break came from American basketball player Anthony Mason, who asked Jason to design a bracelet. Commercial success and an army of high-profile fans quickly followed.

“We have a store in Las Vegas, and we’ve just opened in the Beverly Wilshire hotel – actually on the same site as the jewellery store in Pretty Woman,” says Arasheben. “There’s a lot of heritage on Rodeo Drive, so we’re bringing new life to the hotel.”

Arasheben’s style, with its freedom from convention, has hit the sweet spot with dozens of A-listers and, crucially, their stylists. Mariah Carey, Tom Cruise, Rihanna and Kim Kardashian are all loyal fans of his ability to go further than any other designer would dare.

His standing in the international hip-hop community is legendary, and Arasheben, for better or worse, is indelibly associated with

“I have to have something eye-catching, something that if I tell my mum about it she’s mad at me for having made it” 58

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greenwich

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Jason of Beverly Hills

bling culture and over-the-top accessorising.

He is best known for a diamond-encrusted pendant weighing more than 5lbs and featuring in large letters the message “Crunk ain’t dead” - commissioned by rapper Lil Jon in 2007.

Arasheben is candid when asked if there’s anything he would refuse to design if a client asked. “Honestly, I have very few limits.

We’ve done some over-the-top crazy stuff; there’s nothing that’s completely hands-off.

If it’s something people haven’t seen before and it’s shocking, but it’s designed well with good taste then it needs to be made.”

His Addiction collection is one that teeters on the borders of acceptability. Depicting different substance addictions, one silver necklace features a razor and cocaine (represented by diamond ‘rocks’), another a syringe, while a ring spells out the word sex in gold and diamonds. Elsewhere, his Art of War collection features an AK-47 pendant in white diamonds and yellow gold.

“For that, I was inspired by the film Lord of War,” Arasheben says. “I wanted to come up with something gritty and shocking.”

He is inspired by the everyday, too.

Architecture, art, fashion and cars are just some of the sources of his creative drive. “My team of in-house designers and I all work together, but I make sure our creative room doesn’t contain any other jewellery books.

I don’t want to look at any other jewellery, I want everything to be an original thought.”

But are there signs that the selfproclaimed king of controversy is maturing?

“My jewellery’s changed as I get older,” he admits. “I used to do everything over-thetop, and while I still consider myself to be extreme, it’s to a lesser degree. Lately, I like to put in more detail and work on smaller pieces. If you look at our brand in its entirety you realise you have a collection of smaller pieces that are actually incredibly intricate, creative and difficult to do.”

Arasheben, too, is not what you might

expect, freely confessing that until people get to know him they tend to assume he is loud, arrogant and in-your-face.

This points to an exciting future for the still-young brand. As well as his precious diamonds, Arasheben is looking to incorporate jade and garnet. And while continuing to be the go-to jewellery designer for the rich and famous of la-la land, he also wants to find a new, more artistic crowd.

“We’ve done custom pieces for the likes of Marc Jacobs, and it would be great to work with people like Stefano Gabbana and Karl Lagerfeld,” he says. “Their business is based on design and creativity, so to have a client like that would be an honour.”

With sales not only surviving the recession, but growing, Arasheben clearly still has the Midas touch.

Although, naturally, his streets won’t be paved with gold, but with the finest flawless diamonds.

“our creative room doesn’t contain any other jewellery books. I don’t want to look at any other jewellery, I want everything to be an original thought”

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14/08/2012 17:27

Fashion

A capital affair Stepping out on the streets of Mayfair in this season’s most elegant fashion

062-068_Bond Street shoot.indd 62

Photography - Eamonn McCabe

14/08/2012 16:21

Ollie - jacket, shirt, trousers and shoes all by Burberry Prorsum; watch by Arnold & Son Gabriela - dress by James Lakeland; shoes by Gianmarco Lorenzi; clutch bag by Givenchy for Harrods.com; watch by Bedat & Co; gold earrings by Frost of London

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Fashion

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Opposite page - Gabriela - dress by Love Moschino for Harrods.com; earrings by Messika. Ollie - jacket and shirt both by Burberry Prorsum This page - Gabriela - dress by Jexika; shoes by Mechante of London; watch by Bedat & Co. Ollie - jacket, shirt, trousers, shoes and belt all by Billionaire; watch by Chronoswiss

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Gabriela - dress by Jexika; shoes by Mechante of London; necklace and ring both by Stefan Hafner Ollie - jacket, shirt, trousers, shoes and belt all by Billionaire; watch by Chronoswiss Location: Embassy Mayfair: Bar, Brasserie & Salon

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Gabriela - dress by M Missoni for Harrods.com; shoes by PPQ; clutch bag by Givenchy for Harrods.com; watch by Bedat & Co Ollie - jacket, shirt, trousers and shoes all Burberry Prorsum; watch by Arnold & Son Photographer: Eamonn McCabe. Art director: Ross Trigg. Stylist: Jessica Steuart. Models: Gabriela Hersham; Ollie Loudon- Oxygen Model Management.

Hair stylist: Rosario Serio - Stage Salon. Makeup artist: Sofia Bermudez. Production manager: Eddie Clark - The Anonymous

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Apsley Tailors 13-13a Pall Mall, London, SW1Y 5LU 0207 925 2238 info@apsleytailors.com

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Changing times Words –Scott Manson

The

Chronoswiss

chronicles

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In just 30 years Chronoswiss has become a major player in the luxury watch market. We reveal why watch afionados have been wowed by this forward thinking brand

cientists call it the ‘Goldilocks’ effect. Something that’s not too much, and not too little, but just right. For cosmologists, this relates to the perfect balance it takes to create an Earth-like planet, but it could equally be applied to Chronoswiss, a mechanical watch company that’s found the magical sweet spot of creating high-end timepieces at a remarkably reasonable price.

And the ‘just right’ analogy doesn’t end there. These are distinctive watches, for sure, but not overly showy. They have a low production run, of around 7,000 pieces a

year, but it’s not a brand that releases lots of limited editions, keeping the majority of its range eminently available for watch collecting completists.

And it’s this lively and dedicated fanbase that has, in just 30 years, helped to grow Chronoswiss into a hugely respected Swiss watch brand. It has, frankly, a reputation that other brands spend small fortunes on marketing to achieve.

“We produce a genuine product, with a true value,” confirms Chronoswiss owner and CEO Oliver Ebstein. “I am Swiss, so a love of quality watches is in my DNA, and our

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Changing times frostoflondon.co.uk

watches will never be sold though huge marketing campaigns or celebrity endorsement. Excellent craftsmanship allied to timeless design is our hallmark.”

A Chronoswiss watch is definitely one for the cognoscenti. For most, it’s a third or fourth watch purchase, usually following the holy trinity of Tag Heuer, Breitling and, for the more well-heeled, Rolex. Whichever model you choose from the brand’s large range, every one remains true to the artisan values of Chronoswiss founder and master watchmaker Gerd-Rüdiger Lang. Well known for his love of detail, the oversized ‘onion’ crowns, bezels, and casebands are some of Chronoswiss’s elegantly conceived distinguishing features.

Lang founded the company in 1983, following a 13 year watchmaking role at Tag Heuer. During this time he also worked with actor Steve McQueen on the iconic Le Mans movie, and was the official timekeeper at various Formula 1 races. His real curtainraiser, though, and the innovation that

announced his arrival as a serious watchmaker, was the creation of the world’s first mechanical chronograph with a moon phase display and mineral crystal. And so the Munich-based Chronoswiss watch factory was born, and watch collectors were instantly taken with Lang’s beautifully proportioned timepieces adorned with traditional details.

Among those who truly knew their watches, a glimpse of a Chronoswiss on a wrist would earn the wearer an approving nod and appreciative comments.

Flash forward to the present day and Lang, although still involved in the company at an advisory level, has handed over the keys to his kingdom. New CEO Oliver Ebstein, however, is keen to stress that the pioneering work of Lang will continue to set a benchmark for mechanical watches.

“We will never be a mass market brand,” he says. “Great watches cannot be rushed, and at the moment, demand exceeds supply.

So, even if we wanted to produce more watches, it would be very difficult to do so.

CEO Oliver Ebstein (left) and the Pacific Chronograph (below)

“Great watches cannot be rushed, and at the moment, demand exceeds supply”

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Changing times frostoflondon.co.uk

Yes, in a way it’s a nice problem to have, although the long lead times can sometimes be frustrating.”

Ebstein’s enthusiasm for watches is clear, with him talking fondly of watches he’s owned over the years, such as the classic IWC Porsche Design, an Omega Speedmaster – “one of the big ones” – and a second generation skeletonised Swatch, which he received as a fifteenth birthday present.

“These days, though, I only wear Chronoswiss,” he laughs. “What else does a watch lover need?”

With a huge range to choose from, it’s hard to select favourites, but Ebstein highlights the classic simplicity of the Sirius as perennially popular with Chronoswiss fans.

“The Grand Regulateur is also a fine watch,” he says. “It’s hugely popular in the Asian market, particularly the gold models.”

Elsewhere, the sportier Timemaster range is a hit in the UK and USA and it’s watches like this, with their cool DLC coating and rugged appeal, that Ebstein sees as key to the success of Chronoswiss going forward.

The Balance Chronograph with its distinctive blue hands

“We are an established brand among the watch connoisseurs, of that there is no question,” he says. “But what we need to do now is to spread our message of award-winning Swiss craftsmanship to a younger audience.”

Traditionalists need not fear, though, because the company will continue to champion classic design and technically advanced movements, as is the case with the fabulous Chronoswiss Zeitzeichen DLC, which can be seen on the cover of this magazine.

“Every timepiece company needs talking points,” says Ebstein. “Whether its complications that express our technical capability, or design that delights and surprises – our brand will remain one of the world’s most charismatic watchmakers.”

Although it only celebrates its 30 year anniversary next year, clearly Chronoswiss has already staked its place in the horological history books.

chronoswiss.com

“But what we need to do now is to spread our message of award-winning Swiss craftsmanship to a younger audience”

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20/08/2012 16:35

Form

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function

15/08/2012 10:24

German watches Words - Scott Manson

How did a sleepy town, set high in the mountains near the Czech border, become the centre of the German watchmaking industry? Tempus visits Nomos Glashütte to find out more

It’s 3am and I’m discussing the principles of Germany’s seminal Bauhaus design school.

On the face of it, this is the sort of cerebral chat that would normally be reserved for long nights spent in a smoke-filled bohemian bar. In reality, I’m whizzing along a German autobahn towards the sleepy town of Glashütte, following a much-delayed flight from the UK, for a two-day tour of its Nomos watch manufacturing facility.

My driver, Ute, is part of the Nomos team and, it turns out, an expert on everything from current affairs to design movements and, of course, the mechanical watch industry. It’s a truly fascinating conversation and one that sets the tone for the trip. Everywhere I turn, I meet dedicated, intelligent people who are passionate, to the point of obsession, about great watches.

To explain, the Bauhaus conversation came up as Ute outlined how the design philosophy of their brand was similar to that of the iconic design school. For the uninitiated, the Bauhaus school of arts and crafts was founded in 1919, in Weimar, Germany. Despite a short-lived existence – it was closed down by the Nazis in 1933 – Bauhaus was hugely influential in disciplines as diverse as architecture, design, fashion, painting and photography.

Bauhaus artists worked on the principle that the aesthetic must exist alongside technique, fine arts alongside industry, man working with machine. Their mantra was that: ‘The nature of an object is determined by what it does’ – subsequently abbreviated to the more familiar phrase ‘form follows function’.

Nomos, established by CEO Roland Schwertner in 1990 in Glashütte, the cradle

of German watchmaking, embraces that philosophy. Theirs is an elegantly stark, noble and unaffected aesthetic. In its early days, Nomos worked with calibres that were based on the ETA Peseux 7001 with a 45-hour power reserve. Since 2005, however, the company has developed its own movements and now boasts seven in-house calibres. It’s fitting that they are be named after letters of the Greek alphabet - Alpha, Beta, Gamma, Delta, Epsilon, Zeta and Xi – as Nomos is Greek for regularity and order.

“It was very important for us to be independent,” says Schwertner. “This means we can control the quality. Otherwise you just have to buy what everyone else has, which means you have fixed quality with little or no scope for improvement.

If you do the same thing all the time, it will get better. That is our philosophy. We don’t keep adding unnecessary complications to our models. We improve what we already have.

That way the relationship between the price of the watch and the quality remains very fair.”

Beauty and craftsmanship aside, the price of Nomos watches is also a big draw for watch collectors. Models start at just under £1,000 and go up to around £3,500 – an incredible price for a highly regarded timepiece with an in-house movement.

This is, in part, due to the singular nature of those who live and work in Glashütte.

The town has been the centre of German watchmaking since the legendary watchmaker Ferdinand Adolph Lange set up his first atelier there in 1845. Since then, a staggering eleven watch manufacturers have made it their manufacturing base, including A. Lange & Sohne, the operation that has sprung up from the ’godfather’s’ first manufactory.

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German watches Left: Zurich Weltzeit world timer Below: Zurich Blaugold

Above: The classic Tangente model

“Lange started the tradition of quality here,” acknowledges Schwertner. “It took one person to do a special thing which all others can follow. Now everyone must measure themselves against the benchmark he set.”

In a town where virtually everyone works in the watch industry, it’s unsurprising to learn that Nomos contains several fourth and fifth generation watchmakers. And the quiet solitude of Glashütte, says Schwertner, makes it the perfect breeding ground for expert craftsmen whose work requires deep and lasting concentration.

“You need patience and stubbornness to craft wristwatches,” he says. “Imagine if we tried to set up a manufactory in Berlin, where everyone wants to be a star. It wouldn’t work.

We need somewhere that people are happy to work hard, doing the same thing, day in day out, for years. That way quality is maintained.

This is how we keep our prices reasonable.

We work hard and we don’t spend lots of money on advertising or branding. Glashütters. are a very special breed.”

The result are watches, like the popular and award-winning Nomos Tangente which, as Schwertner says, “have no gimmicks or ornaments”; just clarity, simplicity and beauty.

Inspired by an old Glashütte design from the 1930s, its shell cordovan band comes from Horween Leather Company in Chicago and, made from horsehide taken from a specific section of the horse, is more durable than similar bands made from cowhide or crocodile.

Every watch Nomos produces is designed to be worn forever and, naturally, every design the

company has ever produced is still being sold as part of its range.

“Our watches are not for everyone,” says Schwertner with a grin. “Showy people will not appreciate them. They are for people with taste. However, if a showy type wanted to, say, rebrand themselves. Then wearing a Nomos would be a great first step.”

If purity and clarity of style appeals, in a watch where form follows function, then a Nomos watch could be one of the best investments you ever make.

nomos-glashuette.com

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Six of the best German watch brands

MeisterSinger Designed in Münster, Germany and made in Switzerland Founded in 2001

Head designer and founder of MeisterSinger, Manfred Brassler, places great emphasis on the German traits of quality and service.

Watches are incredibly well-produced with an emphasis on simplicity; when they have additional functions the standard movement is usually stripped down. The single-hand Ur-Uhr watch embodies this perfectly, with its name referencing the first days of timekeeping, taking sundials as its inspiration. The minimalist look of the watch makes it truly unique.

meistersinger.net

A. Lange & Söhne Glashütte, Germany Founded in 1845

Offering superb craftsmanship – the company’s very finest products are generally given the coveted ‘1A’ designation – A. Lange & Söhne’s Lange 1 Tourbillion Perpetual Calendar illustrates the skill the company is known for by reinterpreting the classic complication of the perpetual calendar. The watch has two complications, and timekeeping is now more precise then it has ever been before. The company prides itself on ensuring even the small details are perfect, with every part of their movements, visible or not, decorated with its own finissage technique.

alange-soehne.com

Sinn Frankfurt, Germany Founded in 1961

In its early days, Sinn focused on navigation clocks and pilot chronographs, winning acclaim in the eighties and nineties for its space chronographs that were worn on space shuttle missions. Today, the chronographs are better known for their endurance and can often be seen on the wrists of racing drivers and extreme divers. Most recently, Sinn developed its own movement for a special chronograph celebrating the company’s 50th anniversary. Beautiful, overengineered and highly functional.

sinn.de

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German watches

Hanhart Gütenbach, Germany Founded in 1882

Hanhart has a long history in the watchmaking world, celebrating many technical landmarks over the last century. The company set the bar in the thirties with its first chronograph model which soon became its signature design and, determined to stay ahead of the curve, Hanhart debuted its stopwatches in the fifties, quickly became market leaders. Now, it is focusing on design and quality, basing current models on the chronographs that made the brand famous.

Thomas Morf, CEO, says; “We are still conforming to the standards set when the company was established - maximum precision and reliability, perfect readability, simple and secure operation, and the greatest possible robustness.”

We are breaking new ground with innovative products which stand at the heart of the brand and whose aesthetics and technology distinguish them from the mundane.”

hanhart.com

Junghans Schramberg, Germany Founded in 1861

For over 100 years, Junghans has consistently produced innovative, well-crafted timepieces. It was the first company to introduce quartz wristwatches to Germany in 1970 and unveiled the world’s first radiocontrolled watch, the Mega 1, in 1990. The company is now looking to bring its most popular ranges to the UK: the Aerious Chronoscope, Tempus and Creater lines, all of which feature in-house movements.

Junghans’ focus on technological distinctiveness continues to result in original and desirable timepieces, as shown by its latest partnership with Bogner, a German ski wear brand. The result is a range of highly technical sports watches, which are renowned for their robust qualities.

junghans.de

Tutima Ganderkesee, Lower Saxony Founded in 1927

One of 11 watchmakers operating in the small German town of Glasshütte, Tutima’s notable early achievement was the Flieger Chronograph in the forties, which housed the manually wound movement in a nickel-plated brass case to ensure protection against damage. The company’s focus now majors in classic-style military watches, all boasting cuttingedge technology.

tutima.net

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MASTERING

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T E

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06/08/2012 15:22 03.08.12KW31 16:10

Space travel Words - Hannah Silver

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The lure of space has fired our imagination since Galileo first turned his telescope to the skies. No longer a science-fiction dream, the final frontier can be your next luxury break. While the idea of private space travel has been mooted since the mid1960s, it’s now a commercial reality, and not necessarily just for the ultra-rich. Priced not far above the luxury adventure break market, a quick trip into space can be only fractionally more expensive then climbing Mount Everest. Companies across the world

have been competing to be the first in the new space race, with Richard Branson’s Virgin Galactic looking like it will deliver before the end of next year. Trips will be short - usually no more then an hour - and will take up to seven passengers 60 miles above the Earth at three times the speed of sound. There you will float weightlessly, admiring the view, before swooping back down. With tickets for all flights still available, the chance to be part of history is tantalisingly close.

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The final

Half-hour flights to get a little closer to the sun? Meet the companies aiming to make space flight the new short-haul

frontier

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Virgin Galactic Virgin Galactic is on course to be the first company to provide commercial space travel, with voyages scheduled for the end of 2013 from their specially built £130m spaceport in New Mexico.

Prices begin from £130,000 and include astronaut forums at Richard Branson’s Caribbean island and South African game reserve, as well as the chance to tour scaled composites to see the spacecraft under development.

Virgin has been specially selected by Nasa to provide commercial flights into space. This is the first time the space agency has contracted a commercial partner.

SpaceShipTwo (SS2) successfully completed the first glide flight test in June after receiving an experimental launch permit from the Federal Aviation Administration.

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The craft climbs (relatively) slowly to 50,000ft before a massive acceleration to almost 2,500mph, more than three times the speed of sound, takes you into space. The ensuing weightlessness has been successfully trialled. George Whitesides, CEO and president of Virgin Galactic, enthuses: “We’ve had seven successful test flights and three full-scale rocket motor tests. We are on track for powered flight by the end of 2012.”

virgingalactic.com

14/08/2012 16:28

Space tourism

Armadillo Aerospace

Orbital Technologies

XCOR

From its base in Texas, Armadillo believes wings add too much weight to a rocket and so is perfecting the art of VTVL - vertical takeoff, vertical landing - with the eventual aim to orbital passenger flights.

Since 2000 the company has conducted over 200 flight tests on more than two dozen different vehicles. It successfully launched the first flight to take place after the new Federal Aviation Administration regulations were put into place.

The company hopes to have test flights reaching an altitude of 100,000ft this year. It expects to eventually charge aroud £65,000 for a flight into space.

By aiming for an orbiting hotel, Russian company Orbital Technologies has unveiled the most ambitious plans yet. It hopes the Commercial Space Station (CSS) will be in orbit by 2016 and will hold up to seven passengers for several days.

The CSS will occupy an orbit only 60 miles away from the International Space Station, making transfers between them a possibility. Passengers would reach the hotel on Russian Soyuz and Progress aircraft.

Although not confirmed, it is understood to cost £500,000 for a trip in the Soyuz aircraft to take you to the hotel, plus a further £100,000 to stay for five nights.

Designed to take off and land horizontally like a plane, XCOR's Lynx spacecraft has room for one pilot and one passenger and will allow up to four flights a day with a fast turnaround between flights.

After powering to 190,000ft in three minutes, the engines shut down and the aircraft will coast to 330,000ft, where it will continue for 4.6 minutes before beginning its descent back to Earth.

The half-hour flights cost £60,000, with a £13,000 deposit entitling you to an orientation, medical screening, altitude chamber training and G-force experience.

Although a smaller company, Armadillo has a large amount of experience. It focuses on reusable rocket-powered vehicles and builds its own engines, rather than using commercially available ones. This means it is focused on finding lower-cost solutions resulting, in the long term, in more flights for more people.

armadilloaerospace.com

Orbital Technologies hopes the CSS will mark the beginning of a new era that will eventually help both businesses and governments. Orbital CEO Sergey Kostenko says: “It is our intention to provide the global marketplace with a commercially available orbital outpost.

Once launched and operational, the CSS will provide a unique destination for commercial, state and private spaceflight exploration missions.”

orbitaltechnologies.ru

Hoping to complete its first test flight before the end of the year, California-based XCOR is aiming to start commercial launches in 2014.

The journey, although short, will be exhilarating. Jeff Greason, the president of XCOR Aerospace, says of the experience: “It’s about a minute until you go supersonic. At 70,000ft the sky starts turning dark and at 100,000ft it’s dark black. You’ll have several minutes to enjoy the view and the sensation of being airborne.”

xcor.com

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The glorious

13th ver since the Normans bagged Harold at the Battle of Hastings, Britain has been subject to game laws, determining who can kill what and when. Most have been relaxed, so poachers no longer fret over being taken out by an irate farmer. Yet the original game seasons, based on beasts’ and birds’ natural breeding cycles, remain. The most celebrated of all of these is the start of the grouse season in August.

Usually it’s on the twelfth, but since shooting’s verboten on Sundays, this season opened on Monday the 13th.

At around 8am on the hallowed day, teams of beaters controlled by gamekeepers began sweeping thousands of acres of heather moorland, driving the grouse towards the waiting lines of shooters

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concealed in lines of stone butts. The red grouse, unique to Britain and totally wild, then rocketed towards the butts, each a feathered Exocet hugging the contours of the ground.

Evolved over centuries to outpace a peregrine, their arch foe, they can cruise at 60mph and touch 90mph with a following wind. They’re perfectly camouflaged, hard to see against the heather. If they spot you, they’ll jink with a dexterity to shame a stunt pilot. At 50 yards, they’re in shotgun range, giving you less than two seconds to shoot before they hurtle past. Yet the real artists will routinely kill five out of a pack.

To pull this off, you need a pair of guns and a loader, a wingman who can both warn you of approaching birds and shovel fresh cartridges into your waiting 12-bore rifles.

Most of these have been built specifically for their owners by firms such as Purdey (purdey.com) and Holland & Holland (hollandandholland.com), and command prices anywhere from £140k to £170k upwards, excluding VAT, depending on specifications.

Why so expensive? Daryl Greatrex, managing director of Holland’s, explains: “Manufacturing time varies with specification and can be anything from a year to 30 months.

Each gun will be worked on by up to 20 specialist craftsmen, such as stock makers, barrel makers, actioners and finishers. Every gun will then will be individually shot and regulated to ensure optimum performance with the specified ammunition.”

The expense does not end with the gun. Red grouse are not only the

14/08/2012 16:44

Shooting Words – Jonathan Young

From heli-pad drop-offs through to haute-cuisine hunting lodges, Jonathan Young surveys the shooting opportunities on offer this season

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Shooting

“Each gun will be worked on by up to 20 specialist craftsmen, such as stock makers, barrel makers, actioners and f inishers�

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Shooting Purdey’s hand-crafted guns can cost more than a supercar

world’s most challenging gamebird but they’re also found only in a few parts of northern England and Scotland. So while the ubiquitous pheasant costs £35 to bag, a brace of grouse is £150. That leaves a team of eight shooters, shooting an average day of 200 brace, with a bill of £30,000. And that excludes the gamekeeper’s tip at the end of the day.

“If you’ve got the money, it’s worth it,” says Jeremy Shaw of renowned British outfitters Carters Countrywear, in Helmsley, North Yorkshire, (carterscountrywear.co.uk).

Shaw organises complete packages, from buying the shooting on the clients’ behalf to kitting them out in his own bespoke shooting suits. Most of his clients are regulars. “I have a team of Americans who come across every year, and they wouldn’t miss it.

Top of everyone’s list is Wemmergill in County Durham, one of the most famous moors in the world. The owner has restored the shooting lodge to the highest standard, and

dinner is as good as any Michelinstar restaurant.”

For those that want to shoot early in the season, Rob Fenwick, managing director of EJ Churchill sporting agents (ejchurchill.com), can line up “three 150-brace days back to back on August 20-22, staying at one of the most stunning shoot lodges in the country, with an outstanding cellar. Everything is included in the package, so for £90,000 plus VAT for the whole shooting team, you get the accommodation, fabulous food and great wines and three days’ driven grouse. Helicopters can also fly you directly to the lodge and land on the private heli-pad.”

At this level, many top gameshots charter aircraft to minimise inconvenience and maximise their sporting opportunities throughout Europe. The Czech Republic is the favoured destination for high numbers of less-expensive pheasants (try John Duncan at roxtons.com),

“At this level, many top gameshots charter aircraft to minimise inconvenience and maximise their sporting opportunities” with Spain retaining its reputation for big days at glorious partridges.

No one does this better than Javier Medem at La Nava, in the CastillaLa Mancha region (lanava.net). The birds are challenging and lunch is served outside in the oak groves on white linen by loden-uniformed maids. Price depends on the bag, but figures tend to clock in at around £50,000 per day, per team.

As the Spanish partridge season runs from October through to March, many top shots will travel there after the pheasant season closes in the UK on February 1. However, others choose to just concentrate on another bird, one that experienced shots rate alongside grouse and partridges: the wood pigeon. As an arable pest, they can be hunted year round. All you need is the farmer’s word, and the ability to shoot.

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Motoring Words – Kyle Fortune

Aston Martin’s new super grand tourer is beautifully versatile Any new Aston Martin is significant, but when the firm revives as evocative a name as Vanquish for its centenary, expectations are raised even further. The beautiful new coupe will be available in either 2+2 or 2+0 seating formats, with customers getting their cars later this year.

The Vanquish is also significant, as it debuts Aston Martin’s new generation of VH design treatment.

Wrapped in a carbon-fibre body, its 6.0-litre, 573hp V12 engine can accelerate it to 62 mph in just 4.1 seconds, and help it reach a top speed of 183 mph. Fast then, but not quite in the lunatic league of the quickest

supercars. Aston Martin describe the new Vanquish as a ‘super grand tourer’, rather than mere supercar.

This tag brings with it the promise of genuine day-to-day versatility, meaning the car is as adept at coping with idling inner-city traffic as it is to opening up when given free reign on a mountain pass. It’ll sound spectacular too, with Aston’s V12 engine and exhaust note just as enticing as the car’s looks.

Aston has been accused of sticking too rigidly to its established design tropes with the rest of its range. Yet it is impossible not to be seduced by the Vanquish’s aesthetics. There’s a

bolder aspect to this car’s lines, a more chiselled assertiveness that pays homage to the marque’s history, but also borrows from Aston Martin’s super-rare, hugely expensive One-77 model.

Inside, Aston has stuck to what it’s good at, with the Vanquish’s interior expensively and expansively covered in hand-finished leather, mixing exquisitely with highly polished metal and wood. Few rivals can match Aston Martin’s interiors for making the driver feel special, and the Vanquish’s cockpit does exactly that. Those customers holding early build slots will soon find out that they’ve spent their £189,995 very wisely indeed.

Price £189,995 Performance 0 to 62 mph (100 km/h) in 4.1 seconds Top speed 183 mph (294 km/h) Engine 6.0-litre V12 petrol Transmission 6-speed paddle-shifted automatic, rear-wheel drive Construction Extruded aluminium tub with carbon fibre skin

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14/08/2012 16:47

Grooming

Receding types rejoice, because premature balding can now easily be dealt with. Whether it’s a Rooney-style hair transplant, or the simpler method of knowing the right styling and products to use – like Jude Law – a solution is out there. Our resident grooming expert, Carmelo Guastella, managing director of Melogy salon in London’s St Pancras Hotel, reveals the methods every man who’s stared at the plughole in disbelief should know.

Disappearing act Styling “We don’t do combovers. If there’s a lot of hair missing, it’s best to shave your head completely. If you’ve still got a bit up top, cut your hair so that it’s the same length all over, which will give the illusion of thickness. If the hair’s thinning at the front, it might be tempting to grow a longer fringe to cover it, but don’t. A short fringe actually takes the emphasis away from a receding hairline. Simple.”

Fibres “Nanogen Fibres are a great temporary solution to mask thinning hair. First style your hair, then sprinkle some of the fibres on your hair and some on the bald patch where you can see your skull. It only needs a lock-in spray, after which it looks so natural and won’t stain the pillow or come off in the rain or at the gym. There are plenty of colours so it can be easily matched to your specific hair colour. nanogen.co.uk Gels and shampoos “Product-wise, avoid gels which actually open up the hair and expose the skull.

Dry powders and clay-based products are best. Redken’s Full Body Shampoo, Conditioner and Powder Grip are good, and American Crew Fiber and Mop C-System Texture Spray give high hold, low shine, strong texture and seriously enhanced thickness.” redken.com americancrewshop.com

Transplant “Hair transplants have come such a long way. Rooney has helped guys be more open about it, and start to talk about it more. It’s not a thing we push on our customers - it’s a personal choice - but it’s very successful. For the most effective results, most men have it done twice. The latest technique sees a specialist take hairs from the back of the head one by one and implant them in the balding area. That way the hair grows naturally, and should never fall out again.” dhiglobal.com

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Technology Words – Alex Pell

What’s up dock?

Marantz Consolette

The true allure of a music dock is not that it combines an amplifier and speakers into a single gizmo, but that you can get a big sound from a surprisingly small body. Typically, the speakers are set up to spread the sound around a room more effectively than a traditional stereo does. In a process akin to evolution, many docks have recently shed their Apple audio socket in favour of wireless technologies. The elegant new Marantz Consolette provides the best of both worlds, boasting a slide-out docking cradle, as well as various wi-fi options, including Apple’s new AirPlay standard.

It is constructed from aluminium, with a sculpted wooden speaker-housing and a delightful rotary volume control on the fascia. The sound is at least as good, if not superior, to that of any rival, making this the ultimate choice for anyone who seeks form and function.

Integrated speaker systems so svelte, they’ll shame your iPhone

£900, marantz.eu

NAD VISO 1 Wireless Digital Music System Those hankering for digital convenience with few sonic compromises will love this powerful NAD. The firm is known for its audiophile amps and this digital music player sounds sensational – for a dock – not least in terms of how mind-meltingly loud it can go. It’s also ready to use as soon as you’ve got it out of the box, with little or no set-up required. The Achilles heel of the Viso 1 is that it lacks AirPlay; however, this cutting-edge wireless feature often fails to work, and so its absence shouldn’t be mourned. The dock does offer top-notch Bluetooth playback as well as an optical audio socket, which is perhaps more helpful than AirPlay. This is because the Viso 1 can simply connect to the digital output of an AirPort Express, instantly creating a simple patch for the AirPlay problem.

£500, nadelectronics.com

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Denon Cocoon Home

Denon pioneered the idea of a small hi-fi that plays nicely with an external hard drive, unleashing thousands of internet radio stations into your home. The only surprise here is that it has taken the firm so long to make its own dock. Like the Marantz model, the sumptuously contoured new Cocoon Home (the ‘home’ suffix distinguishes it from a more portable model) features a retractable Apple connector as well as more wireless options than you will ever need. It works with Android and Windows devices, and, better still, Denon has invested serious effort into making it easy to set up, no matter which gizmos you own. The Cocoon also has internet radio presets, a display with a clock function, a sleep timer, and a lock. If its sound proves to be as good as its looks, the Cocoon Home could be your ideal kitchen, living room or bedroom companion.

£500 denon.eu/cocoon

Loewe Air Speaker

If you care as much about the way your home looks as the sound of the kit within it then this swish Loewe will float your boat. The high-end home entertainment firm is marketing this dock as a bachelor-pad player, offering great sound and neat colour coordination. The top of its black or aluminium speaker chassis can be customised with a choice of inserts, available to order in almost any colour in the spectrum. As the name suggests, this dock includes AirPlay but it also has a USB socket to plug in your other musical gizmos, which is just as well given that AirPlay is unreliable. Despite the Loewe’s modest dimensions, it manages to pack in two subwoofers and certainly won’t disappoint any guests who pop over ready to party. Great looks, good sound, and an instant match with the sofa. Aside from cost, its lack of controls is our only major gripe.

£650, loewe.tv/uk

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Superyachts Words – Ellie Brade

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When it comes to planning your superyacht’s interior, don’t let tradition hold you back

thinkers 101

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Superyachts

is a word rarely heard in the superyacht industry. Anything goes, and if something seems like it can’t be done, a way to make the impossible possible is invariably found. This is particularly true when it comes to the interior design of these magnificent vessels. Combining good looks and functionality, superyachts are a unique platform for design, with the interior providing a perfect blank canvas for creativity. It’s also an area of yacht design where owners are encouraged to contribute their ideas. Some will hire the big names, such as Terence Disdale, Donald Starkey, Bannenberg & Rowell and Redman Whiteley Dixon, to create a look for

“Superyacht interior design has become very ‘spaceship’ of late which is f ine…

them, while those who have a very distinct vision take a more hands-on approach to the process.

The job of an interior designer goes beyond just making things look pretty, and a good one will make sure the interior and exterior of a yacht blend together as harmoniously as possible. The yacht’s interior will be determined by the owner’s passions and interests: a lavish entertainer might place focus on communal areas, whereas others may prefer to place more attention on the master bedroom or formal dining room. Designers will often spend time in a client’s home to get an idea of their personal tastes. They can then create a

variety of styling options, covering everything from hardware details to carpets, textiles, furniture and finishes. 3D technology means that the design can be previewed by the owner before the first shipyard worker has even touched their tools.

As with all design markets, trends come and go.

Once yacht design was formal and traditional, while in recent years designs have pushed the boundaries of convention. In 2008, M/Y Sea Force One, designed by Luca Dini Design and the brainchild of her owner, the self-styled ‘Captain Magic’, set a new benchmark for quirky design with its extravagant and colourful interior. For every Captain Magic, however, there will be a more reserved owner, and the fleet contains a great deal of variety, from the crazy to the minimal, through to the traditional.

“Superyacht interior design has become very ‘spaceship’ of late which is fine… but at the same time, there are some extraordinarily glamorous and exciting modern interiors,” says Gabriel Bernardi, director of London based Coote and Bernardi, whose most recent project was the striking 47m Perle Noire, built by Dutch yard Heesen.

From the sperm whale foreskin-covered stools on Aristotle Onassis’ M/Y Christina O to the giant rotating master bed on M/Y A, there are few requests that will faze yacht interior designers.

Short of the obvious restrictions of the yacht’s shape and size, the design possibilities are thrillingly limitless. As the late Jon Bannenberg, considered the father of superyacht design, said, “It starts with one person’s imagination.”

Photography - Maurizio Paradisi & Heesen Yachts

Extravagant and colourful stylings, courtesy of Luca Dini Design

Ellie Brade is the editor of Superyacht Intelligence, part of The Superyacht Group

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10/08/2012 12:30

Hidden gems Words – Ken Scrudato

01 Little House Mayfair

Secret London

This Little House is a long way from the prairie, of course. Indeed, Mayfair’s Queen Street is the antithesis of roughing it. However, the charms of this Soho House spin-off are nevertheless legion, with lots of antiques, fireplaces and the eponymous “Little Menu”.

Central to any Nick Jones venture, it also sports a nifty art collection.

littlehousemayfair.com

01

Lifestyle concierge service The Anonymous provides its pick of the best underthe-radar options for cool hunters in the capital Unlike Beijing, London, of course, didn’t need to use The Olympics as a wildly transformative moment. Indeed, the capital carried on pretty much as it had before, with its chic new hotels buzzing with glamorous clientele, its culinary offerings now giving even Paris a run for the money, and its clubs and bars still forming the core of the most exciting nightlife to be found anywhere.

02 The South Place Hotel

02

The first hotel from high-profile London restaurant group D&D, the sleek new Conran-designed South Place Hotel’s East End location sets it up as one of the surefire magnets for the creative classes this season and beyond. To wit, its eighty rooms are complemented by two restaurants and three bars— the most anticipated being the Angler rooftop eatery. For culture vultures, the hotel will also offer an annual South Place Art Prize, and there will be a Sunday Cinema Sessions series. The, um, “Place” to be seen.

southplacehotel.com

03 Me By Melia Hotel

The ME Madrid Reina Victoria electrified both the Spanish capital’s hotel scene and the glamorous end of its nightlife when it opened in 2006. Now coming quickly after a Rome opening, Melia brings its style-disposed offshoot brand to London with this spectacular Foster + Partners designed outpost. Sleeping chambers have names like Vibe Rooms and Aura Rooms — there’s even a Passion Suite, which we needn’t explain. Yet with a New York style STK steak house and a rooftop lounge, guests probably won’t want to spend too much time in bed. It’s also a member of the Preferred Hotels group, so expect high service standards.

me-by-melia.com

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Hidden gems

04

06 Zero Aldwych – Cellardoor

Zero, of course, denotes how much information about this secret hideaway has been voluntarily made public. Should you scale the barriers, you will find this rock ‘n’ roll basement bar has live music acts and a general air of decadence. Look out for cocktails with names like Dita Von Teese and Starbucks Must Die.

cellardoor.biz

07 Cigar Room At The May Fair Hotel

04 The Scotch

05 Mari Vanna

After conquering NYC, Ginza Project has brought provincial aristo style and trad Russian cuisine to ‘Moscow-on-theThames’. The same kitschy-chic décor found in the New York location here complements the substantial old-school, prerevolutionary cuisine. But it’s really all about the house speciality: infused vodkas. A few shots of the horseradish version confers instant insider status.

The Scotch has British rock ‘n’ roll history in its booze-tinged blood. Back in the 60s, when rock was just a baby, musicians like The Beatles, The Stones and Jimi Hendrix all took to the stage. Now revivified for a new generation of rock royalty (there’s even a Purple Haze cocktail), its demented tartan interior theme was conceived by Rebecca James, and, appropriately, the groovy uniforms are by none other than rock ‘n’ roll’s favourite seamstress, Pam Hogg.

Pish posh on the smoking ban!

The celebrity fave May Fair Hotel (sometime home to Lady Gaga) goes old-school here with this classy new place to puff the night away. Recalling the gentlemen’s clubs of yore, it encourages the timeless savouring of a good Cuban, while sipping a vintage cognac or Armagnac beside a real fire. Jolly good, Carruthers!

themayfairhotel.co.uk

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09/08/2012 13:50

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Travel

Michelin-starred Madrid

Words - Hannah Silver

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Travel

adrid’s majesty is often forgotten, with cool-hunting visitors to mainland Spain swept up in the bars, beaches and bohemia of Barcelona instead.

It would be a shame to pass by one of Europe’s oldest and finest cities though, as this stylish capital offers a wealth of cultural delights. The truly hip holidaymaker, however, heads here for the food. With very few exceptions, the world’s most interesting cities are those with a fabulous gastronomic culture. This is especially true of Spanish conurbations, where locals eat well, long into the night.

A short city break demands an excellent hotel, and the five-star Hesperia Madrid, like the city itself, is elegant, sophisticated and handsome. Thoughtful touches like an in-room espresso machine and a choice of bath essences available from the ‘Hotel Doctor‘ are particularly welcome after a long day’s sightseeing. A SkyGym with breathtaking views over Madrid and a

speciality whisky bar are also great additions, although I definitely neglected one in favour of the other. The selling point for me though, and what elevates this hotel to must-stay status, is the Santceloni restaurant downstairs, overseen by double Michelin-starred chef Oscar Velasco.

The restaurant first set Madrid’s dining scene alight thanks to the late Santi

“With very few exceptions, the world ’s most interesting cities are those with a fabulous gastronomic culture” Santamaria, whose clutch of seven Michelin stars made him arguably Spain’s best chef.

Within a few bites of my first course – one of ten, no less – it was clear that Velasco hasn’t let those standards slip.

Standout delicacies included veal terrine with foie gras and pistachio nuts and sea bass with red pepper oil, plus a beautifully delicate ricotta ravioli with caviar and anchovy. The signature dish (and a local speciality), white veal knuckle with creamed potatoes, was meltingly soft and indulgently

rich. Finally, a groaning cheese trolley drew gasps from our table and resulted in a flurry of photo-taking. Shamefully, the soft cheese ice-cream with brandy and coffee cream with baked chocolate mousse proved to be a step beyond for this reviewer, although the beautifully-crafted petits fours saw even the most replete among us give them a try.

Special mention must also go to the sommelier David Robledo who matched every course to perfection - with sherry, white wine, red wine, sweet wines and even north Spanish cider (to cleanse the palate before dessert) - all providing hit after hit.

David worked his magic on me and convinced me that sherry, that famous preserve of old ladies, is an essential part of any Spanish dining experience.

This orgy of food demanded an attempt to burn off some calories. During my visit in July, temperatures hovered around 40 degrees, and the sun-bleached streets were calling. Like many cities, the social hub in Madrid is spread over several areas, all

The Michelin-starred Santceloni restaurant, complete with groaning cheese table

Above: La Terraza’s gorgonzola shell with apple and celery salt nut praline Below: Nest of egg carbonara

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Travel The Madrilenian’s Way

If you’ve just got one day to spend in Madrid, take a tip from the locals, know fondly as ‘cats’ (gatos). The nickname, incidentally, is owed to a Christian soldier who stealthily climbed the Moorish wall and replaced the flag. Our local guide gave us the following advice…

“After a light breakfast, take a stroll through Old Madrid and then pop into the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum, a great alternative to The Prado. An Edward Hopper exhibit is on until mid-September, but the permanent collection, featuring Caravaggio, Goya, Francis Bacon and Munch, among many others, is worth the visit alone. Lunch on tapas and some good wine before a siesta in the Madrid Rio, a large urban park running along the banks of the Manzanares River. Soak up more culture over a lazy afternoon – guided tours are available at both the Madrid Royal Palace and Santiago Bernabeu football stadium, depending on preference – followed by dinner. Try cocktails at Melia Fenix and dance to jazz and flamenco at Joy Eslava, found in an old theatre, before grabbing some chocolate and churros (Spanish doughnuts) for a sleepy wander home to bed just as dawn breaks over this beautiful city.”

Hotel Hesperia Madrid – home to all manner of epicurean delights

Left: The alfresco appeal of La Terraza del Casino Below: Restaurante La Terraza

within walking distance. The huge Plaza Mayor is a busy square surrounded by beautiful columned walkways and filled with bars, restaurants and markets. The premier food market, though, is undoubtedly San Miguel Market, one of the oldest covered markets in Madrid.

Perusing the fresh fruit, vegetables, Spanish delicacies and over 100 varieties of cheese is a great way to spend a hazy morning, while its oyster bar makes for a refreshing pit stop. A visit to Madrid, though, wouldn’t be complete without a spot of tapas. Estado Puro offers tradition with a twist, and can handily be found near the Prado, one of Madrid’s best museums.

One of the most interesting ‘reinterpreted’ tapas dishes they offer is a Spanish tortilla transformed into a creamy, foamy cocktail of potato and custardy egg served in a glass.

More traditional options are the chorizo sandwich - spiced pork fat in crisp flatbreads - and patatas bravas topped with hot sauce.

By this point in the weekend most people would be groaning under the weight of several indulgent meals. The genuine gourmet, however, is duty-bound to enjoy a last hurrah at La Terraza del Casino, a Michelin-starred restaurant in one of the

city’s most architecturally impressive buildings. A seat on the terrace, cool in the evening and offering panoramic views, is perfect way to spend your last night in the city. Food is cutting-edge: a frozen strawberry that dissolves into parmesan in your mouth, a chocolate filled with foie gras, frozen gazpacho rock, spherical mozzarella and oyster tartar - and the elegant, graceful setting is a soothing balm after the flurry of activity below. If the vibrancy and health of a city is defined by its food, then Madrid is alive and kicking.

hesperia.es, restaurantesantceloni.com, tapasenestadopuro.com, casinodemadrid.es

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20/08/2012 14:15

Moments in time

Beauty and the beast With the Olympics now just a happy memory for sports fans, it’s time to reflect on some of the details that you may have missed in all the excitement.

Team Jamaica, of course, had the world’s eyes on them for arguably the most thrilling event, the 100m finals.

And while Usain Bolt took the gold medal, it was Yohan Blake – dubbed ‘The Beast’ – who made us draw a collective intake of breath thanks to the beautiful Richard Mille watch he was sporting. The brand is loved by watch aficionados and sporting stars alike for its sophisticated tourbillions that come encased in the world’s lightest watches. Blake’s model is a prototype whose details are still being kept under wraps, but we can confirm it comes with a Velcro strap and in a fabulous Jamaican flag colourway.

Limited edition, of course, so move fast if you want one…

richardmille.com

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