grown here. enjoyed here. sold here. tastes of Atlantic Canada Compliments Honeycrisp apples
CHOOSE ATLANTIC
Compliments Honeycrisp Apples This local variety is a firm, sweet, aromatic, juicy apple with tremendous crispness. Try yours with PEI’s own Avonlea Clothbound Cheddar
available exclusively at
Fall | 2013
CONTENTS occasions
Occasions is a premier food and drink magazine published by TC • Media for the NSLC and is intended for the enjoyment of Nova Scotian consumers. Publication Director: Tim Pellerin, VP, Customer Marketing, NSLC Publisher: Fred Fiander Food & Drink Editor: Mark DeWolf Editorial Board: Laura MacLachlan, Marketing Manager, NSLC; Meg Stewart, Marketing Coordinator, NSLC; Jillian Major, Manager Wholesale, NSLC; Peter Rockwell, Category Manager, Old World/Local Wine, NSLC; Fred Fiander, Group Publisher, TC • Media
Mixology
Themed Celebration
Food Stylist: Mark DeWolf Props: Mark DeWolf Photography: Dennis Evans, Peter Rockwell Contributing Writers: Mark DeWolf, Michelle Hooten, Peter Rockwell, Rayell Swan, Doug Watling Group Publisher, TC • Media: Fred Fiander Sales Manager: Sue Kosloski Account Executives: Mark DeWolf, John Eagles Production: Angela Jørgensen Copy Editor: Lori Covington Advertising Coordination: Bonnie Marchand Copyright 2013 by TC • Media All rights reserved. Reproduction of any article, photograph or artwork without expressed written permission from the publisher is strictly prohibited. Materials submitted for consideration should be accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. The publisher cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited materials. 211 Horseshoe Lake Drive, Halifax, Nova Scotia, B3S 0B9 Tel: 902-421-5888 Fax: 902-422-5400 occasions@holidaymedia.ca www.tc.tc
Tasting Menu
Inside Welcome Cheers! Themed Celebration Simply Inspired Mixology 4 Fabulous Pairings Restaurant Spotlight Grape Expectations Tasting Menu Online Aisle Beer Basics Did you Know?
4 6 9 16 19 22 27 32 36 44 46 50
On the Cover On the Cover In this edition, we’re featuring a food lover’s guide to Italian wine. We have a number of Italian inspired recipes showcasing the regional diversity of this food centric country. On the cover is our version of Sicilian Caponata. Find this recipe in our Themed Celebration feature on page 9.
Disclaimer Occasions Magazine makes no warranties of any kind, written or implied, regarding the contents of this magazine and expressly disclaims any warranty regarding the accuracy or reliability of information contained herein. Occasions Magazine further disclaims any responsibility for injuries or death incurred by any person or persons engaging in these activities. The views contained in this magazine are those of the writers and advertisers; they do not necessarily reflect the views of Occasions Magazine and its publisher, TC • Media. Please note all products listed within this publication are available in most NSLC stores throughout Nova Scotia. Prices and availability subject to change without notice. In cases where there is a difference in prices listed within Occasions and NSLC stores, the prices in the NSLC stores shall prevail. Printed CTP (computer-to-plate), eliminating the need for film, and the plates are processed using water soluble developer. Inks used are vegetable oil based. Paper used is Somerset Gloss, manufactured by SAPPI in Somerset, Maine. This paper is acid free, the pulp is cultivated from sustainable forests. It is SFI (Sustainable Forestry Initiative) certified as well as ISO 14001 certified. The Somerset Mill, where this paper is manufactured, has won the Maine Governor General Award for Environmental Stewardship. Cited in particular with regard to this award, was the use of recycled water during the manufacturing process. It was also noted that this Mill generates its own power from waste products on site. Not only that, but the excess power generated is sent back to the Maine Power Grid.
Nova Scotia Liquor Corporation 93 Chain Lake Drive, Halifax NS, B3S 1A3 Tel: 902-450-6752
Now at the NSLC.
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WELCOME | The Fall Issue
WELCOME
Viva Italia Viva Italia
Spread the (Local) Love
This edition has a special meaning for me. Between writing articles and working on photography for Occasions, I can usually be found leading epicurean adventure tours in Italy. This edition’s theme gives us the opportunity to share some insight into the food and wine of Italy, which is based on simple preparations capturing the essence and flavours of the ingredients. Discover recipes for Italian cuisine in our Themed Celebration feature on page 9 and a food lover’s guide to the wines of Italy in Grape Expectations, on page 31.
Whisk Me Up a Cocktail As the warm days of summer fade into cool autumn evenings, we’re replacing the blender with a cocktail shaker to mix up warming cocktails featuring whiskies from around the world. The rich flavours of classic whiskies lend spicy flavours to cocktails. One of our favourites is the Smoky Martini, featuring a Single Malt Scotch Whisky from Islay. Find this recipe and more in Mixology, on page 19.
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Occasions Fall 2013
Occasions’ feature writer Whitney Moran set out to discover Nova Scotia restaurants that are spreading the love for local ingredients. In her research, Whitney discovered Chef David Smart’s Front & Central in Wolfville. The restaurant brings renewed energy to the Wolfville dining scene with dishes featuring local ingredients. In Halifax, the team behind Chives has opened 2 Doors Down which is a vibrant new restaurant focused on delivering local flavours in a casual dining atmosphere, while further afield in Antigonish, Chef Mark Gabrieau and wife Karen showcase their own twist on celebrating local with dishes that fuse global culinary styles with regional products. Find our Restaurant Spotlight feature on page 27, then make a reservation at one of our featured restaurants.
Spirited Pairings While wine has long been a go-to for food and drink pairings, many dishes simply overwhelm the delicate flavours of the grape. We’ve discovered that whisky and beer have a natural affinity to foods featuring full-flavoured local ingredients. Enjoy our autumn-inspired recipes and pairings as selected by NSLC Product Advisor Rayell Swan in our Tasting Menu, featured on page 36.
473ML CANS ONLY
12 CAN PACKS ONLY
*Must be legal drinking age. †Price is subject to change. Please Drink Responsibly.
Cheers!
BEVERAGES | Peter Rockwell
French wines are making a comeback. Fans of vins français may wonder what I’m on about. Fact is, most 21st century Nova Scotian wine lovers all but abandoned French wines when New World juice from Australia, California and South America started to hit our shores in the late 1980s. It’s always been a conundrum for winemakers in France. In staying true to themselves (and the rules and regulations of their individual regional appellations) they’ve become their own worst enemy. A large part of “being true,” is the baggage French wines can’t seem to check. There’s the snob factor. France makes some of the planet’s most amazing liquid, its winemakers know it and, more often than not, they can’t help themselves from embracing a superiority complex. There’s the perception of price. Though it’s far from true, French wines are perceived as being very expensive and not offering good value.
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Occasions Fall 2013
There’s also the label issue. The French rarely add the names of grapes to their front panels. It’s a major deficit in a market where consumers now consider grapes their primary guide to buying wine. Ah, but it’s the grapes that have built the bridge back to France for younger, more knowledgeable aficionados. They’ve figured out that those New World upstart countries owe a debt to France since most of their favourite grapes originated there. The Bordeaux region in particular gave birth to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and, with all apologies to The Loire Valley, Sauvignon Blanc. I’ve always thought of Bordeaux as the doorway to French wines. Its opulent chateaus, elegant cuisine and classic wines, while each famous in their own right, come together to create a singular personality that, to even casual imbibers, is the ultimate image of wine world sophistication.
BEVERAGES | Peter Rockwell
Unfortunately, Bordeaux packs the most of my earlier mentioned baggage. There have been texts as big as the Toronto phonebook that have tried to explain the region. Let me attempt it in a few paragraphs. The Gironde estuary divides the region into the Left Bank (where Cabernet is king) and the Right Bank (where Merlot rules). Though these noble grapes get the spotlight, Bordeaux wines are almost always blends of more than one grape. Comprehending its complicated classification system is no mean feat. Red wines labeled “Bordeaux” and “Bordeaux Supérieur” are produced across the region and tend to be lighter, easier drinking and much cheaper than their counterparts identified as coming from very specific appellations like the Haut-Médoc and Saint-Émilion.
refreshing; the nectar-like, sweeter wines from the Sauternes appellation get all the attention. Of course, you can drink a Bordeaux red on its own, but they really shine with food. Lighter styles love simple dishes like chicken, grilled meats and beef carpaccio. Fuller figured wines prefer richer dishes such as quail, duck breast and roast lamb. Drier whites are perfect with oysters and white fish; sweeter versions pair best with blue cheeses. The secret to enjoying Bordeaux, and French wine in general, is getting over the fear factor. Forget the posh mansions and tuxedoed wine waiters. Pick your price range and style, then get in on the rich history and flavour of the region.
Fill your glass with red: Réserve de Louis Eschenauer 'Bordeaux' (1016330, $15.99) Ripe, balanced, mellow. Château Timberlay ‘Bordeaux Supérieur’ (1001186, $17.99) Rich, dark-fruited, aromatic. Château Cantenac ‘Saint-Émilion Grand Cru’ (1000185, $36.79) Smooth, complex, persistent. Château de Malleret ‘Haut- Médoc’ (1001247, $39.99) Deep, textured, full-flavoured. Fill your glass with white: Mouton Cadet Blanc 'Bordeaux' (1000124, $15.99) Fresh, modern, flavourful. Château Lamothe de Haux 'Cotes de Bordeaux' (1008209, $16.99) Clean, lemony, thirst-quenching. Château Grand Renom 'Bordeaux' (1013849, $22.99) Tropical, citrus, full-bodied.
White wines make up only 10 per cent of total production in Bordeaux. While dry whites are characteristically crisp and Now at the NSLC.
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Thank you to our 2013 Port of Wines Festival sponsor partners
FOOD | Themed Celebration
The Assaggini Menu: Discover Italy, South to North Despite the globalization of food and the popularity of fast food, Italians have largely stayed true to their dining traditions. Few cuisines show as much respect for the raw ingredients as Italian food. The village that grows the best tomatoes or the farmer in the neighbouring town who raises the best cattle is common knowledge for most Italians. There is simply no need to champion a 100 kilometre diet in Italy, as most Italians feast on ingredients from a much smaller radius. The integrity of ingredients is critical to Italian cuisine. While the French are admired for their perfection of technique, Italians can be praised for their care in regard to ingredients. Great wine can’t be made from anything but great grapes: similarly, great food can only be made from fresh, flavourful ingredients. Our menu is inspired by the diverse regions that make up Italians’ rich culinary tapestry. Our menu features the earthy, rustic Sicilian cuisine, the vibrant flavours of Campania, a classic Tuscan pasta, the bold richness of Piedmontese cuisine and the unique character of Northern Italian cuisine. As for the best wine pairings for each course, we recommend serving wines from the region of the dish. This is one food and wine pairing rule that will never go out of style!
Read on for a selection of classic regional wines that are great partners for a South to North Italian dining experience. They also make a great collection for a wine tasting with friends.
South: Donnafugata Anthilia DOP (Italy, $18.99, 1003011)
Central: Exclamation Point Montepulciano (Italy, $12.99, 1011846)
North: Tommasi Valpolicella Classico (Italy, $16.99, 1001356)
Now at the NSLC.
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FOOD | Themed Celebration
Sicilian Style Caponata (Southern Italy) Ingredients: 2 pounds eggplant, chopped 1 ⁄3 cup extra virgin olive oil 1 large onion, peeled, chopped 1 clove garlic, minced 1 bunch celery, chopped 4 plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, diced ¾ cup green olives, pitted, sliced ¾ cup capers 2 tbsp red wine vinegar ½ cup pine nuts, toasted 1 loaf rustic Italian bread, sliced, toasted 1 lb white fish such as cod, cooked, cubed
Directions: 1. Slice the eggplant and place in a colander. Liberally salt the eggplant and set aside for an hour. 2. Rinse the eggplant with cold water and pat dry with paper towels. 3. Place a sauté pan over medium heat and add 21⁄2 tablespoons of the olive oil. 4. Sauté the eggplant until soft; reserve. 5. Place a large sauté pan over medium-low heat; add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and the onion. Sauté until onion is soft. 6. Add the garlic and continue to sauté until the garlic is fragrant; about 30 seconds.
Sicilian Style Caponata 7. Add the celery and sauté for a further 5-7 minutes. 8. Add the reserved eggplant and tomatoes and sauté for another 4-5 minutes. 9. Add the green olives, capers and red wine vinegar; stir. 10. Transfer Caponata to a bowl. Let stand for an hour before serving to enrich the flavours.
Sensations by Compliments Mozzarella Pesto Thin Crust Brick Oven Pizza Sensations by Compliments Thin Crust Pizzas are baked in an authentic Italian brick oven with gourmet toppings. Try Italian inspired Mozzarella Pesto, add a salad and your meal is complete in 11 minutes. It’s almost too good to be this simple!
Editor’s Tip: We’ve opted to serve our version of Caponata as an appetizer, but it could also be served as a topping for a firm white fish, such as halibut, or with chicken. Be sure to set out plenty of good, extra virgin olive oil to accompany this dish.
Masi Campofiorin (Italy, $19.99, 1000203)
+
Sensations by Compliments Mozzarella Pesto Thin Crust Brick Oven Pizza $5.59 Available at most Sobeys Stores.
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11. When ready to serve, top with toasted pine nuts. 12. Serve with slices of toasted bread and cubes of white fish.
Occasions Fall 2013
Campofiorin is the original “Supervenetian”, made with Masi’s double fermentation technique. A specialty wine with rich cherry and berry fruit flavours that stand out on the palate. Good acidity, balance and velvety tannins. Very approachable and exceptionally versatile with food.
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Great Italian Pairings
FOOD | Themed Celebration
Caprese Salad Top quality olive oil can be as complex as a great wine. Some of the best Sicilian olive oils have a pronounced peppery finish. Be sure to buy extra virgin olive oil; lesser quality ones are often blends of olive oil and other oils.
Editor’s Tip: This classic salad is named after the island of Capri, off the coast of Naples in Campania. We’ve topped ours with red onion to give it extra colour and crunch. If you want to serve a more classic variation, you can omit it.
Caprese Salad (Southern Italy)
Pappardelle al Ragu (Central Italy)
Serves 6 Ingredients:
Ingredients:
6 plum tomatoes, sliced 1 340 g mozzarella ball, torn 1 ½ cups basil, torn ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil 3 tbsp balsamic vinegar 1 small red onion, sliced Sea salt & cracked pepper to taste
Directions: 1. Divide the sliced tomatoes among six dishes. 2. Top each plate with equal amounts of mozzarella and basil. 3. Drizzle the tomatoes with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. 4. Top with slices of red onion. 5. Season with sea salt and cracked pepper.
4 tbsp olive oil 1 onion, chopped 1 celery stalk, sliced 1 carrot, peeled, chopped 3 tbsp milk ¼ lb lean ground beef ¼ lb ground pork ¼ lb ground lamb 2 tbsp tomato paste 2 tbsp water 1 cup strained tomatoes Grated Pecorino or Parmesan (Parmigiano Reggiano preferred) 12 oz pappardelle
Directions: 1. Place a pan over low heat; add the olive oil.
Now at the NSLC.
Pappardelle al Ragu 2. Add the onions, celery and carrot and sauté until soft. 3. Add the milk and let simmer for 2-3 minutes. 4. Add the ground meat and brown. Stir with a wooden spoon to break up the meat. 5. Add the tomato paste, water and strained tomatoes; simmer over low heat for 2 hours. 6. Remove the sauce from the heat and let cool. 7. Cook pasta according to the directions on the package. 8. Toss the pasta with the sauce. Editor’s Note: Pappardelle is a wide, ribbon-like pasta which is popular in Tuscany. It is often served with a thick, ragu style sauce. Italians utilize different pasta depending on the sauce. Pappardelle, with its rough texture and wide noodle, is well-suited to rich meat sauces, while more delicate, thinner pasta such as spaghettini, are better suited to lighter sauces.
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FOOD | Themed Celebration
Brasato al Valpolicella (Northern Italy) Serves 6-8 Ingredients: 2 lbs beef top round roast 1 bottle Tommasi Ripasso Valpolicella Classico 2 celery stalks, chopped 2 carrots, chopped 2 onions, chopped 2 sprigs rosemary 2 bay leaves Sea salt & cracked pepper 3 tbsp olive oil 3 tbsp butter
Directions: 1. Tie the meat and place in a large container. 2. Add the Valpolicella, celery, carrots, onion, rosemary and bay leaves. Let the beef marinate overnight. 3. Drain the marinade and reserve. 4. Pat the beef dry with paper towels. 5. Add the butter and olive oil to a large deep pot. Place over high heat. 6. When the butter is melted and begins to brown, add the beef. Brown the beef on all sides.
Brasato al Valpolicella
7. Add the reserved marinade to the pot. Bring the liquid to a quick boil, then reduce the temperature to medium-low heat. 8. Let the beef simmer for 1 ½ to 2 hours. 9. Remove the beef from the pot. Let rest for 15-20 minutes before slicing. 10. While the beef is resting, bring the liquid up to a boil. When the beef is ready to serve, pass the liquid through a strainer to remove any solids. You may opt to add butter to the liquid to lend additional richness to the sauce.
Pairing: Tommasi Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore (Italy, $23.99, 1017857) Tommasi Lugana Le Fornaci (Italy, $18.99, 1017738) The Tommasi family have been crafting wines in Northern Italy for more than 100 years. They are dedicated to tradition but ever receptive to innovation. Their wines
tell a story of a family that believes in honest labour and love of the land. Their Ripasso is clear evidence of this commitment to quality, as it delivers a rich and silky texture with lots of cherry, dark berry, chocolate and savoury flavours. This modern classic makes a great partner to Brasato al Valpolicella. Another great wine to serve at a dinner party is their Lugana Le Fornaci. This remarkably fragrant and fresh white wine boasts light tropical fruit notes with a crisp finish.
FOOD | Themed Celebration
Ricotta Cake with Roasted Apricots (Northern Italy) Serves 6-8 Ingredients: 7 tbsp unsalted butter 10 apricots, pits removed, quartered ¾ cup Amaretto 4 eggs ½ cup + 2 tbsp sugar 1 ½ cups ricotta 2 tsp lemon zest ½ cup sunflower oil ¾ cup milk 2 ½ cups flour, sifted 1 tbsp baking powder, sifted Icing sugar for garnish Mint for garnish
Directions: 1. Preheat oven to 350 ˚ F. 2. Combine the apricots and Amaretto in a deep sauté pan. Bring to a boil and then turn off the heat. Let the apricots simmer in the alcohol. 3. Grease a bundt pan with 2 tablespoons of the butter. 4. Make the filling by whisking together the eggs and sugar until smooth.
Ricotta Cake with Roasted Apricots 5. Add the ricotta, lemon zest, oil and milk; mix thoroughly. 6. Add the flour and baking powder; mix thoroughly. 7. Remove the apricots from the Amaretto and place in the bundt pan. 8. Fill the bundt pan with the batter. 9. Place the pan in the oven and bake for 40 minutes.
10. Remove the cake from the oven and let cool. 11. Place a serving dish over the pan and flip. 12. Sprinkle icing sugar over top and garnish with fresh mint. Editor’s Tip: This dessert can be topped with any number of fruits. Use whatever is in season.
LUNENBURG COUNTY WINERY
Celeb 20 yerating ars
Real & Reasonable Nova Scotia Grown Wines In all NSLC stores Hwy 103, Exit 11, 24 km inland to Newburne www.canada-wine.com
902-644-2415
Now at the NSLC.
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FOOD | Themed Celebration
Super Italian Side Dishes
Roasted Peppers
Fennel & Lemon
Creamy Polenta
Roasted Peppers
Fennel & Lemon
Creamy Polenta
Serves 6-8 Ingredients:
Serves 6-8 Ingredients:
Serves 6-8 Ingredients:
1 red pepper, whole 1 green bell pepper, whole 1 yellow bell pepper, whole 2 cloves garlic 4 tbsp olive oil Salt & pepper to taste
1 bulb fennel, rough end removed, cored, fronds removed 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil Juice of 1 lemon Salt & pepper to taste
7 cups salted water or vegetable stock 3 cups polenta flour ½ cup Parmesan, grated (Parmigiano Reggiano preferred)
Directions: 1. Preheat oven to 400 Ëš F. 2. Place whole peppers and garlic in a roasting pan; drizzle with half of the olive oil. 3. Roast for 20-25 minutes or until peppers begin to char. 4. Remove the peppers from the oven and discard the garlic. 5. Let the peppers cool and then remove the skins. 6. Slice the peppers and drizzle with remaining olive oil. 7. Season to taste with salt and pepper. 14
Directions: 1. Remove the rough end of the fennel and the fronds. Remove any dark outer leaves and discard. 2. Next, slice the fennel in half lengthwise and remove the core. 3. Cut the fennel into small strips, lengthwise. 4. Place the fennel into a bowl and then add the olive oil and lemon juice; toss. 5. Season with salt and pepper.
Occasions Fall 2013
Directions: 1. Bring six cups of salted water to a boil. Place the other cup of salted water in another pot and bring to a simmer. 2. Very slowly whisk in the polenta flour. Add only a few tablespoons at a time. This process will take up to 45 minutes to complete. 3. Add reserved salted water if the polenta becomes too thick. 4. Add the grated Parmesan and stir. 5. Serve warm as a side dish to braised meats instead of potatoes.
Simply Inspired | Charcuterie Platter
How to Create the Ultimate
Charcuterie Platter Our Expert: Frederic Tandy is the owner of Ratinaud French Cuisine, located at 2082 Gottingen Street in Halifax. The French born and raised chef has developed a loyal following for his expertly prepared charcuterie and is the host of the immensely popular “The Kitchen Table” – a series of dinners held at his Gottingen Street storefront. Ratinaud charcuterie can also be found at many of the region’s best restaurants. www.ratinaud.ca
About Charcuterie Charcuterie is, generally speaking, a reference to a style of cooking originally used to preserve meat without the need of refrigeration. Cured meats, pâtés, rillettes, terrines and dried sausages are just some of the charcuterie expert’s repertoire. Pairing complementary meats and cheeses is another part of that expertise, so we asked Frederic to recommend some of the best. Photo by Dennis Evans
Dry Cured Meat
Dry Cured Meat and a Hard Sheep’s Milk Cheese Look for an artisanal, dry- cured meat. Options available in grocery stores include: Jamón Serrano and Manchego cheese. Shown here is Ratinaud’s own Duck Prosciutto (duck breast cured and dried) paired with Tomme de Brebis from Charlevoix, Québec. Pairing: Fruity rosé; bright, fruity red wine such as a Chianti or Barbera D’Asti; or a spicy, lightly malty style of beer such as Propeller Pilsner.
Albola Chianti (750 ml, $16.99, 1016364) ’s eep h S rd heese Ha kC Mil 16
Occasions Fall 2013
Simply Inspired | Charcuterie Platter
Dry Cured Pork Sausage and a Strong Flavoured, Semi-Soft, Creamy Cheese
Semi-Soft, Creamy Cheese
This is Frederic’s favourite pairing. Look for a good quality salami (available at some specialty grocery stores). Featured here is Ratinaud’s Saucisson Sec with Garlic and Peppercorns, paired with Morbier from France’s Franche-Comté region. Morbier is a semi-soft and slightly elastic cheese with a strong flavour, a rich and creamy texture and a slightly bitter aftertaste. If you can’t find Morbier try Fontina or Havarti.
d ure sage C Dry k Sau r Po
Pairing: Amontillado Sherry, a bold Burgundy-style Chardonnay, or a rich, Trappist style beer.
Chimay Reserve Trappist Ale (750 ml, $11.60, 1001447) Rich, Creamy, Goat Cheese
Coppa and a Rich, Creamy, Goat Cheese Coppa is a style of cured meat made from a pig’s neck or shoulder. If you can’t find Coppa, look for Capocollo at your grocery store. Featured here is Ratinaud’s Coppa, cured with juniper berries and nutmeg and matched with Barbizon; a rich, soft and creamy goat cheese from New Brunswick. Boursin, widely available at most grocery stores, makes a reasonable substitute. Pairing: Off-dry Riesling, Cru Beaujolais or Hefeweizen (German wheat beer).
Coppa
Erdinger Wheat Ale (500 ml, $3.88, 1001420)
Now at the NSLC.
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DĂŠcor Debut Add a little style
Geddes Furniture Custom and Original Since 1982 A local company featuring custom made solid wood furniture. 2� thick Cherry solid dining tables available in any size to fit your room and multiple finishes to suit your style. Seen right, is our Barn Floor look with deep tobacco base. We have more than just pieces for your dining room. Come in Friday evening for our 5pm showing to see bedroom, living room and office furniture too. Geddes Furniture | 2739 Agricola St., Halifax (902) 454-7171 | www.geddesfurniture.com geddesfurniture@eastlink.ca
Canadian Made Solid Wood
600 Bedford Highway, Halifax Phone: (902) 445-3250 Toll Free: 1-877-445-3250 www.manorhousefurniture.ca Open: Mon-Tues-Wed 9am-6pm Thurs-Fri 9am-9pm Saturday 9am-5:30pm Closed Sunday
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Occasions Fall 2013
Beverages | Mixology
Whisky Me Up a Cocktail: Fall Drinks
Maple Manhattan Serves 1 Ingredients: Cinnamon stick 2 oz Canadian Club Classic (750 ml, $29.99, 1001035) 他 oz maple syrup 2 dashes cherry bitters (optional)
Directions: 1. Rub the cinnamon stick around the inside rim of a rocks glass; fill the glass with ice. 2. Fill a mixing glass (or cocktail shaker) with ice. 3. Add the Canadian Club Classic and maple syrup; stir for 1 minute. 4. Strain into the rocks glass. 5. Garnish with the cinnamon stick. Now at the NSLC.
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Beverages | Mixology
Storm Devil Serves 1 Ingredients: 1 ½ oz Jim Beam Devil’s Cut Bourbon Whiskey (750 ml, $34.99, 1014834) Dash Angostura bitters 4 oz ginger beer
Directions: 1. Fill a rocks glass with ice. 2. Add Jim Beam Devil’s Cut, bitters and then top with ginger beer.
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Occasions Fall 2013
Beverages | Mixology
Fiery Irishman
Apple Ginger Grouse
Serves 1
Serves 1
Ingredients: 1 oz Kilbeggan Irish Whiskey (750 ml, $33.99, 1017030) 2 dashes Angostura bitters 4 oz ginger ale
Ingredients: 1 oz The Famous Black Grouse Scotch Whisky (750 ml, $34.99, 1010295) 1 oz apple cider 4 oz ginger ale Apple slice
Directions: 1. Fill a rocks glass with ice. 2. Add Kilbeggan and bitters, then fill with ginger ale. 3. Garnish with a lime wedge.
Directions: 1. Fill a rocks glass with ice. 2. Add The Black Grouse and apple cider, then fill with ginger ale. 3. Garnish with an apple slice.
Now at the NSLC.
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FOOD & DRINK | Pairings
4
FABULOUS PAIRINGS Pasta ... Perfecto
This autumn, add a taste of Italy to your midweek dining routine.
Cacio E Pepe
Spaghetti with Marinara Sauce
Serves 4 Ingredients: 8 oz dry tagliatelle pasta 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper 1 1⁄2 cups Parmigiano Reggiano, freshly grated 3 tbsp butter
Directions: 1. Prepare the pasta according to the directions on the package. 2. As the pasta is cooking, melt the butter in a large heavy bottomed skillet over medium heat. 3. Strain the pasta, reserving a quarter cup of pasta water. 4. Add the ground pepper, pasta and reserved pasta water to the skillet.
Serves 4 Ingredients: ¼ cup olive oil 4 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped ¼ cup fresh basil, sliced ¼ cup chopped flat leaf parsley ½ teaspoon sea salt Cracked pepper to taste 28 oz can diced plum tomatoes 8 oz dry spaghetti
Directions: 1. Heat oil over low to medium heat.
Cacio E Pepe
2. Gently sauté garlic but do not brown. 3. Add the herbs, salt and pepper and continue to sauté for another 30 seconds. 4. Add the tomatoes and bring to a boil.
5. Add the cheese and toss well. Pairing: Ruffino Chianti (Italy, $17.99, 1000823)
5. Reduce the heat and simmer until thick. Set sauce aside. 7. Cook spaghetti according to the directions on the package. 8. Strain and toss with the marinara sauce. Pairing: Asio Otus (Italy, $17.99, 1017188)
NEW Spaghetti with Marinara Sauce
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Occasions Fall 2013
FOOD & DRINK | Pairings
Butternut Squash and Digby Scallops Arrabiatta Serves 4 Ingredients: 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped 1 dry red chili, crushed 2 tsp fennel seeds, slightly crushed 1 small butternut squash, peeled and cut into 1 inch pieces 1 lb large Digby scallops, side-muscle removed 1 28 oz can diced plum tomatoes with purée Sea salt & freshly ground black pepper to taste 8 oz farfalle pasta
Butternut Squash and Digby Scallops Arrabiatta
Pesto Linguine Serves 4 Ingredients: 2 cloves garlic, peeled 2 tbsp pine nuts, toasted 2 tsp coarse sea salt 2 cups fresh basil, loosely packed ½ cup flat parsley, loosely packed ½ cup extra virgin olive oil ⅓ cup Parmesan, freshly grated (Parmigiano Reggiano preferred) 8 oz linguine
Directions: 1. Place garlic, pine nuts and salt in a food processor and pulse until coarse.
Directions: 1. In a large skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat.
2. Add the basil and parsley leaves and pulse until finely chopped.
2. Add garlic, chili, fennel seeds and butternut squash cubes.
3. With the motor running, pour the olive oil through the feed tube into the food processor. Process until the pesto is thick and creamy in consistency.
3. Sauté until the squash is fork tender. 4. Remove squash and set aside. 5. Increase the heat slightly and add scallops. Sear on one side only. 6. When the scallops are nicely browned on bottom, return the squash to the pan and add the diced tomatoes.
4. Transfer the pesto to a medium-sized bowl and stir in the grated Parmesan cheese. 5. Cook the linguine according to the directions on the package. 6. Toss the pesto sauce with the pasta.
7. Heat until just starting to boil. 8. Meanwhile, cook the farfalle according to the directions on the package. 9. Toss the sauce with the pasta.
Pairing: Masi Levarie Soave Classico (Italy, $15.99, 1000146)
Pairing: Bolla Pinot Grigio (Italy, $15.50, 1001282)
Pesto Linguine
Now at the NSLC.
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What’s
New
Forty Creek Cream (750 ml, $28.98, 1016953) This unique blend of Forty Creek whisky and fresh cream makes a great after-dinner drink.
Here’s a selection of the great new tastes in store for you this season!
Asio Otus Vino Rosso Italia (Italy, $17.99, 1017188)
Whiz Bang Shiraz (Australia, $19.99, 1015938)
This is a crowd pleasing Italian red with light plum, vanilla and chocolate aromas and flavours. It has a succulent palate with a soft finish. A great wine to pair with pizza.
This spicy medium-bodied Shiraz is sure to wow your taste buds with its juicy plum and red fruit flavours. Kissing Booth Sauvignon Blanc Semillon (Australia, $19.99, 1017328) A bright, fresh and lively white wine with a mix of tropical and citrus fruit aromas and flavours.
NEW
Budweiser Crown (6x341ml, $12.99, 1018268) This handsomely packaged amber lager delivers some light roasted caramel malt notes with a little more hop character than its namesake.
Leonardo Chianti DOCG (Italy, $17.99, 1016826)
Adult Chocolate Milk (750 ml, $29.99, 1018123)
This super fresh style of Chianti, packaged in a traditional fiasco, is loaded with ripe cherry flavours. The perfect match to spaghetti with tomato sauce.
This rich, creamy and very satisfying liqueur boasts milk chocolate aromas and flavours without being overly sweet. 24
Occasions Fall 2013
Coors Banquet Lager (12x355 ml, $24.98, 1018102) This refreshingly crisp beer has a long history but has only recently been released in Canada.
Absolut Elyx (750 ml, $48.99, 1017980) This handcrafted single estate vodka is made from a special plot of wheat and by using meticulous care in the distillery. The result is a super-premium vodka.
Propeller Pumpkin Ale (6x341 ml, $12.99, 1014446)
Kilbeggan Irish Whiskey (750 ml, $33.99, 1017030)
Propeller Pumpkin Ale is brewed using Howard Dill's world famous Atlantic Giant Pumpkins and a special blend of spices. It’s the next best thing to pumpkin pie.
A distinctively smooth whiskey with sweet malt and vanilla aromas and flavours.
Pump House Octoberfest Beer (6x341 ml , $13.99, 1016682) This seasonal specialty, modelled after the classic German beer style, boasts a malty flavour profile and refreshingly crisp finish.
Buffalo Trace Kentucky Straight (750 ml, $39.99, 1002062) Forty Creek Copper Pot (750 ml, $31.49, 1016954) A contemplative and complex whisky that has a rich body from being distilled in copper pot stills. It has also been aged in oak barrels, which add toasty and spicy notes.
Black Velvet Toasted Caramel (750 ml, $28.98, 1017116) This flavoured whisky, with its sweet caramel flavours and warming finish, is great for making cocktails or a good starter for those just beginning their journey into whisky tasting.
Now at the NSLC.
This sweet and spicy Bourbon delivers concentrated aromas and flavours along with a pleasantly smoky finish. A great way to warm up on a cool autumn evening.
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INTRODUCING THE MACALLAN 1824 SERIES 100% SHERRY OAK CASKS, 100% NATURAL COLOUR, A 100% MACALLAN
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SPOTLIGHT | Restaurants
Spread the (Local) Love by Whitney Moran
2 Doors Down Every Saturday, Chefs Andrew Farrell and Craig Flinn of 2 Doors Down gather two carloads of local ingredients from over ten vendors at the Seaport and Historic Farmers’ Markets in Halifax. As a fan of Chives, I was practically chomping at the bit to try Flinn’s new restaurant, located—as the name suggests— an heirloom tomato’s throw away. And I wasn’t disappointed. Before entering, the painted windows entice you with whimsical images of canned and fresh vegetables. Step into the casual dining space and experience a relaxed, communal atmosphere. Every little detail says “local foodie fare,” but with a vibe that tempts you to savour your surroundings and, of course, your meal. The seasonally rotating menu is based around farmers’ market items. “We work
with vendors that can provide the items and quantities that we need,” explains Farrell. “Here [compared to Chives] we had to do a lot more planning in how we use them.” The result is a simple menu divided into Meat, Seafood and Vegetable, with a range of daily specials like “Pie in the Sky”— a weekly, baked-to-order Getaway Farm meats and fishmonger creation that may send the traditional pot pie packing. Daily soups reflect market availability and run the gamut from sweet pea-coconut to wintered parsnip. Fall’s menu features heirloom tomatoes and sweet potatoes. But don’t worry if you show up outside strawberry or fiddlehead season—pickling and preserving is the name of the game. Top off a fresh and creative meal with local wine, a microbrew, or an experimental cocktail. Your experience may change with the seasons, but you’ll always leave satisfied.
Now at the NSLC.
Most Popular Menu Items: “A lot of people are doing burgers right now,” says Farrell, “so we just stuck with the Old School Cheeseburger: pickles, cheese, ketchup, tomato and burger sauce” in a scrumptious bun from Mahone Bay’s Boulangerie La Vendéenne. Insider’s Tip: Chef Farrell suggests using “superfood” kale instead of traditional salad greens. Simply marinate in lemon, olive oil and salt. Try their popular “Kale, Caesar” Salad to see for yourself. Drinks Tip: Bartender Andru Branch recommends their Baker’s Blueberry Smash. 2 Doors Down 1533 Barrington Street, Halifax (902) 422-4224 / go2doorsdown.com
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SPOTLIGHT | Restaurants
Smart’s philosophy is simple: “I try to buy the most I can locally as it’s coming out of the ground … I’m just cooking stuff that’s locally available.” Stewart’s Organic Farm grows Smart’s vegetables, while he also incorporates Holmestead feta cheese, Acadiana Soy Products and Hutchinson’s Maple Syrup, to name a few. And the thought that’s always on his mind: “How can I make this the best I possibly can?” If you’re looking for a chance to sample multiple menu items made with ingredients you can see growing from your window, this foodie’s paradise—tucked between the adorable town of Wolfville and the rolling fields of the bountiful belly of the province—is a sure bet. Most Popular Menu Items: Chive Gnocchi, Grilled Strip Loin, which is “fairly straightforward but really delicious,” Pan Roasted Char and a spin on Nova Scotia Hodge Podge.
Front & Central Front & Central Chef Dave Smart of Wolfville’s newest fine dining experience, Front & Central, views cooking with an experimental eye. “I love the game of taking something simple and making it fantastic … I love the science behind cooking,” he admits. As soon as you taste his culinary creations, you’ll be glad to be part of the experiment. The modern, minimalist dining room is a montage to dark wood and elegant lighting. Service is convivial and meals are served with a sense of humour. With a menu that changes seasonally, I feel like a tease mentioning the Chive Gnocchi, Mushroom and Asparagus Pizza with Shaved Smoked Duck Prosciutto we indulged in, but some foundations were meant to be shaken. The fall will see Pumpkin Gnocchi, “more braised items,” squash soups and unique takes on root vegetables.
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Insider’s Tip: In a past life, Smart was both a vegetarian and an engineer. He’s not afraid to play with his food, and the wheels are always turning. During our interview, he came up with the idea of taking the classic Bloody Caesar and using all the same ingredients to create a “Caesar” salad. A true scientist, he views it simply: you’re just turning a liquid into a salad! Drinks tip: Recently crowned Canada’s Best Bartender at a national competition organized by Diageo, Jenner Cormier of Halifax’s Noble recently overhauled Front & Central’s cocktail menu. During the process, Smart was introduced to a fabulous cocktail base called a “shrub”—fruit soaked with sugar, cut with vinegar. According to Smart, “it’s the most intense thing you can put in your mouth.” Try one of his berry cocktails to see for yourself! Front & Central 177 Front Street, Wolfville (902) 542-0588 / www.frontandcentral.com
Occasions Fall 2013
SPOTLIGHT | Restaurants apple trees, which bear fruit for their famous apple-onion chutney. and Gabrieau sees the challenge as an incentive: “‘local’ is what’s available at the time [so] you’ve got to be a little more creative.” To experience the creativity for yourself, try Gabrieau’s for a uniquely exotic take on local. Most Popular Menu Items: Crab Cakes, made with Cape Breton crab; Nova Scotian Lamb and Seafood Vindaloo. Insider’s Tip: Gabrieau’s smokes all their own salmon as well as producing a line of spices, salad dressings, curry sauce, tapenade and more. Drinks Tip: Try the popular Chef’s Garden Cocktail, made from fresh basil and Pomquet strawberries. Gabrieau’s Bistro 350 Main Street, Antigonish (902) 863-1925 / www.gabrieaus.com Gabrieau’s Bistro Gabrieau’s Bistro
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Gabrieau admits the difficulty in focusing on local from his location: “We’re not the breadbasket of the province like the Valley … we don’t have nearly as many producers … that’s why we started growing.” On top of veggie gardens, the couple has seven
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Although Chef Gabrieau and his wife Karen grow all of their own edible flowers, green and yellow beans, summer squash, tomato and lettuces, some of their favourite local products include berries from Venedem Berry Farm, That Dutchman’s Peppercorn Gouda and Dragon’s Breath Blue Cheese and Havacourt maple syrup, which is used in their Maple Balsamic and Roasted Garlic dressing (available for purchase at the restaurant in 375 ml bottles).
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Recently renovated, Gabrieau’s Bistro showcases its love of local right down to its wine-crate bar, wine-glass chandeliers, and inverted barrel ceiling. A bar top made by Margaree’s Larch Wood Enterprises is the perfect setting for a meal devoted to local ingredients. But for Chef Mark Gabrieau, “local” doesn’t mean regionally restricted recipes: “We try to use as many local ingredients as possible with international flavours … Italian, Mediterranean, Thai and other Asian cuisines.” That’s why you’ll find dishes like gourmet sushi and duck confit poutine side by side.
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For all of your authentic Italian culinary needs and more... www.italianmarket.ca • info@italianmarket.ca 6061 Young Street, Halifax • (902) 455-6124
Now at the NSLC.
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SPOTLIGHT | Restaurants
Piatto: An Italian Wine Experience Brian Vallis and his two daughters, Jay and Kate, owners of Piatto Pizzeria + Enoteca (wine emporium), were traveling around Tuscany checking out vineyards and olive groves when they discovered a new type of wine tasting experience in the hilltop town of Montepulciano. Based on a recommendation from Jennifer Criswell, author of “At Least You Are in Tuscany,” they discovered a new enoteca that housed thousands of bottles of wine scattered throughout many different little caves. Each cave represented a different region of Italy and housed an Enomatic wine dispensing machine with 6 to 8 bottles of wine. After a few hours sampling wines from the various machines and dinner featuring a different wine with every course, they decided they wanted to bring the experience home.
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The concept for their wine program is pretty simple. According to Brian, it’s “to have good wines and reasonable prices … always less than double the retail price … which is lower than the industry standard.” They also want to give people “the opportunity to sample wines by the ounce, by the glass or by the bottle. We think of it as wine the way you want it.” We think it is a great way to enjoy an authentic Italian experience in Halifax. Most Popular Menu Item: According to owner, Brian Vallis “our best-selling pizza is the Siciliani. It’s a real traditional Italian favourite made using Italian and local ingredients. We start with a base of hand crushed San Marzano tomatoes. We top it with a spicy Italian sausage made fresh for us every week by Getaway Farms, fresh mozzarella, roasted red peppers and
Occasions Fall 2013
chopped basil supplied to us by River View Herbs. It’s a hearty, meaty pizza that brings out the flavour in some of our most full-bodied red wines.” Drinks Tip: Anything from their Enomatic wine dispensing machine. It’s a guarantee each wine will be served fresh and at the proper temperature. Insider’s Tip: Piatto holds monthly Wine and Pizza Tastings, which include samples of three wines, a selection of appetizers, authentic Neopolitan style pizza and desserts. Contact Piatto to find out when the next tasting is being held. Piatto Pizzeria + Enoteca 5144 Morris Street, Halifax (902) 406-0909/ www.piattopizzeria.com
GRAPE EXPECTATIONS | Italy
I Italia
A Food Lover’s Guide to the Wines of Italy
The notion of drinking wine without food is a concept that's lost on many Italians. Wine is simply part of the dining experience and, not surprisingly, the wines of Italy have been designed to partner with
Two Great Italian Wines
food. While it’s been said that Italy is made up of a thousand different wine regions, each with its own myriad grape varieties and styles, there is one truth to understanding the wines of ‘the boot’ that
Tre Saggi Montepulciano D’Abruzzo (750 ml, $16.99, 1016403)
A bright, fruity red with lifted cherry, oaky spice and savoury leather aromas and flavours. Utterly drinkable, immensely satisfying and totally sumptuous. A great match to roast pork, hearty tomato based pasta dishes and pizza. Wine Enthusiast: 90 PTS
Now at the NSLC.
goes beyond the pages of any textbook. The wines of a region reflect the food of that region. Let’s take a south to north approach to understanding Italy’s wines through the dining experience.
Monte Nobile Grillo (750 ml, $15.99, 1016375)
Enjoy a taste of the Sicilian sun with this fresh and fragrant white wine made from the local Grillo grape. It’s a great match to fresh seafood, simple pasta dishes and even has enough aromatic character to partner well with Asian cuisine.
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GRAPE EXPECTATIONS | Italy
South Southern Italy, including the island of Sicily, is by most accounts poorer than its central and northern neighbours, although those who have ventured only to Campania’s popular Amalfi Coast and the small island off its shores, Capri, might disagree. In general, the cuisine of the south is based on fresh, simply prepared dishes with varying amounts of seafood, vegetables or meat, depending on the particular region the dish originates from.
Puglia
Campania
Sicily
Cuisine Style
Rustic and comforting, with simple but flavourful dishes.
Fresh and elegant, with fresh seafood, salads and olive oil-based pasta featuring prominently. Also home to classic, thin-crust, Napoli-style pizza.
Diverse and exotic, thanks to its rich cultural history which includes Arabic and Greek influences.
A Few Classic Ingredients
Tomatoes, fennel, eggplant, peppers, lamb.
Marzano tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, basil, oregano, lemons, olive oil, seafood such as squid and octopus to name just a few.
Extra virgin olive oil, tomatoes, capers, eggplant, a wealth of seafood including swordfish.
Wines to Pair the Cuisine with
Montepulciano D’Abruzzo – medium to full-bodied reds with ample fruit flavours and soft, easy-to-drink textures. Top wines can be quite dry and powerful.
Aglianico – One of Italy’s best grapes. It produces hearty, complex, very full-bodied red wines with spice, dark fruit and gamey flavours. Usually boasts very dry finishes. A must with lamb or game.
Nero D’Avola – Italy’s equivalent to Shiraz. Medium to full-bodied red wines with rich fruit flavours and a pleasant spiciness. A good match to meat dishes seasoned with exotic spices.
Tre Saggi Montepulciano D’Abruzzo (Italy, $16.99, 1016403)
Villa Matilde Aglianico (Italy, $21.99, 1016369)
Monte Nobile Nero D’Avola (Italy, $15.99, 1016374)
Our Recommended Regional Tasting
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Occasions Fall 2013
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Evan Williams Kentucky Straight Bourbon
Boundary Ale Expertly crafted by Moosehead
Jost Coastal Vineyards White
(750 ml, $27.99, 1002798)
(6 x 341 ml, $13.99, 1018267)
Add bold flavour to your fall cocktail routine with this incredible whiskey which boasts vanilla, caramel and toasty oak aromas, sweet toffee flavours and a distinctively spicy finish. If you want an authentic Bourbon experience this is the whiskey for you.
Boundary Ale is brewed with four uniquely blended new and old world hops and seven malt varieties which gives it a balanced, slightly sweet, roasted caramel complexity. It’s flavourful and aromatic with medium body and smooth finish.
The coast is where the land meets the ocean, friends meet strangers, and food meets wine. Vibrant and lively with a brisk touch of green apple and peach, enjoy at home with seafood, salads or solo. This zippy, refreshing wine was created with good times in mind. The L’Acadie base brings with it delightful round aromatics, while Ortega contributes a clean minerality and a racy acidity that give this wine structure and length.
Now at the NSLC.
(750 ml, $15.99, 1017893)
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GRAPE EXPECTATIONS | Italy
Central Central Italy covers Lazio (home to Rome), Umbria, Tuscany and Marche. The most famous of these provinces, at least in wine terms, is Tuscany. While Tuscany is known as one of the world’s most esteemed wine regions, its cuisine is relatively simple. Umbria’s cuisine shares similar flavours to Tuscany's, while in Marche, the cuisine style is divided between the rich, rustic and heavily meat-based cuisine of the inland mountainous region and seafood-rich cuisine on the coast. Lazio is better known for its food than wine, although this is changing.
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Tuscany
Marche & Abruzzi
Lazio & Umbria
Cuisine Style
Simple and Honest – Tuscan cuisine has its origins in peasant cuisine. Hearty vegetables play an important role, as in its most famous soup, Ribollita. Pasta is also important, and ragu sauces feature prominently. Game dishes become increasingly important here, as does the local beef.
Rich and Meaty – On the coast of Marche and Abruzzi, fresh seafood is the order of the day, while the inland region’s cuisine is rich and rustic. Chicken and pork dishes, including a number of cured meats, feature prominently.
Rustic and Bold – Umbrian cuisine shares many similarities to Tuscany and relies heavily on seasonal vegetables which includes truffles in the fall. Lazio cuisine is rich, especially chicken and beef dishes (many made from lesser-used cuts). Pasta is also important – Lazio is home to Carbonata and Arrabiata.
A Few Classic Ingredients
Tomatoes, Pecorino cheese, pasta such as Pici and Pappardelle, fresh vegetables, beef (Chianinna cattle), rosemary, rabbit, duck, pheasant, deer and wild boar.
Chicken, pork, cured pork, seafood, mushrooms.
Beef, pork (especially Umbria’s famous roast suckling pig), chicken, pepperoncini (for Lazio’s arrabiata sauce).
Wines to Pair the Cuisine with
Chianti Classico – Medium to full-bodied reds with floral, cherry, leather and herb aromas and flavours. Defined by their vibrant, food friendly acidity and ample but fine tannins. Perfect with pasta and ragu sauce.
Verdicchio – Very fresh styles of white wine with subtle aromas and flavours. A great match to simple seafood.
Orvieto – The wines made from the local Grechetto grape are known for their fresh floral and dried fruit aromas and mineral edged palates. Some are dry but others pleasantly semi-sweet (labeled as Abbocatto).
Our Recommended Regional Tasting
Ruffino Riserva Ducale Chianti (Italy, $34.99, 1000199)
Exclamation Point Verdicchio (Italy, $12.99, 1011845)
Antinori Cristina Casasole Orvieto (Italy, $15.50, 1000144)
Occasions Fall 2013
GRAPE EXPECTATIONS | Italy
North It’s hard to define Northern Italian cuisine as a singular style, as variation exists within this broad area. Piedmontese cuisine is distinctly different than its neighbours. Recipes from further south that would call for olive oil often substitute butter or a combination of the two. Flour-based pasta plays a less important role here as well, as the traditional accompaniment to a Piedmontese dinner is polenta (finely ground cornmeal cooked with water or stock).
Piedmont
Veneto
Alto-Adige
Cuisine Style
Bold and Earthy – The cuisine of Piedmont is rich and varied. Its home to a wonderful aperitivo culture and offers some great antipasti dishes such as Bagna Caude (vegetables with garlic and anchovy sauce). It is also home to bold, braised meat dishes, creamy polenta and hearty pastas made from gnocchi.
Complex and Varied – The cuisine of Veneto varies based on geography and cultural influence. Seafood plays an important role along the coast, while grilled meats are more common inland. Like its northern neighbours, polenta and gnocchi are increasingly important. Of course, the region is also home to Tiramisu—arguably Italy’s most famous dessert.
German Italian Fusion – The German and Austrian influences are evident in this cuisine, which features (among other regional specialities) spätzli, sausages, goulash and sauerkraut. Cornmeal, like Veneto and Piedmont, plays an increasingly important role and can even be found on the local pizzas. Desserts featuring local fruits are among Italy’s best.
A Few Classic Ingredients
Truffles, game meat, tajarin (pasta), Canaroli rice (risotto), gnocchi, polenta, butter, cream
Cornmeal (polenta), Canaroli rice, stuffed pastas
Orchard fruits, Speck, sauerkraut, cheeses including Asiago
Wines to Pair the Cuisine with
Barbera – Medium to full-bodied reds with berry and often spicy, oak-influenced aromas. Barbera is characterized by its rich blackberry fruit flavours and tangy foodfriendly acidity. A very versatile food wine.
Valpolicella – Wines simply labelled as Valpolicella are quite light, with cherry fruit flavours, light tannins and moderate acidity. Pair with simple pastas. Fullest versions, known as Amarone, boast dried fruit, spice and mocha notes. Serve with bold game dishes or hard cheeses.
Pinot Grigio – Many of Italy’s best Pinot Grigio come from the foothills of the Alps. Light to medium-bodied with apple and pear aromas and palates that boast citrus fruit flavours and crisp, mineral-edged acidity. A good match to spätzli.
Our Recommended Regional Tasting
Bersano Barbera D’Asti (Italy, $14.99, 1001139)
Masi Bonacosta Valpolicella Classico (Italy, $16.99, 1000202)
Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio (Italy, $21.49, 1000797)
Now at the NSLC.
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FOOD & DRINK | Pairings
MALT MATCHMAKER A Whisky and Beer Inspired Menu Roasted Parsnip and Pear Cappuccino
FOOD & DRINK | Pairings
Rayell Swan, Retail Product Specialist at the Larry Uteck NSLC, offers recommendations for beers and whiskies to match our autumn menu. A sommelier wouldn’t necessarily present a bottle of beer in lieu of wine any time soon; but whisky and beer are gaining favour with fashionable restauranteurs. They are now being promoted as more than just the bookends of a meal. In many cases, malt based beverages simply outclass wine on the dinner table; especially as pairings to intensely flavoured dishes.
9. Place whipping cream in a bowl. Whip until stiff peaks form. 10. Add the orange juice; combine. 11. Pour warm soup into espresso cups and top with whipped orange cream. 12. Garnish with orange zest. Editor’s Note: These little warm me ups make a great prelude to an autumn feast. Serve them in espresso or cappuccino cups as an amuse bouche or in larger bowls as a first course. If you don’t enjoy parsnip, try substituting celery root for a milder flavour.
Dalwhinnie 15 Year Old (Scotland, 750 ml, $89.99, 1000814)
Roasted Parsnip and Pear Cappuccino Makes 16 small portions Ingredients: 2 lb. parsnips, peeled, roughly chopped ¼ cup olive oil 8 pearl onions, peeled 6 cloves garlic, not peeled 1 tsp cumin Pinch salt & pepper 3 pears, peeled, cored, chopped 6 cups chicken stock ½ cup whipping cream ½ orange, juiced and zested
Directions: 1. Preheat oven to 375 F˚ . 2. Place the parsnips, oil, pearl onions, garlic, cumin, salt and pepper in a bowl; toss. 3. Transfer to an oven-proof baking dish and roast for 35 minutes. 4. Remove the garlic and set aside. When cool, remove the skin from the roasted garlic and discard. Reserve the garlic for step 7. 5. Transfer ingredients to a large pot and add the pears and stock. 6. Bring to a boil; then, reduce to a simmer for 30 minutes. 7. Let the soup cool. Add the reserved roasted garlic and purée in batches until smooth. 8. When ready to serve, warm the soup and prepare the whipped cream.
Boddingtons Pub Ale (England, 440 ml, $3.58, 1000044)
Rayell: For this soup, I suggest serving Dalwhinnie 15YO to enhance the sweet character of the roasted parsnips. This single malt reflects lingering notes of citrus and fruit that match perfectly with the pear and orange flavours found in the recipe. Diluting the Scotch with pure water will open up the flavours even more, softening its presence on the palate. The Dalwhinnie is an approachable option with delicate notes of hay, honey, fruit and spice. My beer of choice is Boddington’s Pub Ale based on the flavours and weight of the soup. This ale has a notable creaminess, fruit character and a decent mouthfeel, all of which combined provide it with a refreshing palate cleansing experience.
Now at the NSLC.
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FOOD & DRINK | Pairings
Malt Encrusted Mini Smoked Fish Cakes
Malt Encrusted Mini Smoked Fish Cakes Makes 16 fish cakes Ingredients: 1 tbsp butter 1 onion, chopped ½ lb smoked mackerel or haddock, chopped ½ lb cod, steamed, chopped 2 tbsp parsley, chopped 1 cup mashed potatoes 1 cup flour 1 egg, beaten ¼ cup caramel malt, ground ¼ cup roasted or chocolate malt, ground ½ cup breadcrumbs 4 tbsp olive oil
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Directions: 1. Sauté the onions in the butter over low heat until soft and translucent. 2. Combine the sautéed onions, mackerel, cod, parsley and mashed potatoes in a bowl. 3. Gently mix the ingredients. Form into 16 small cakes. 4. Combine the ground malts and breadcrumbs in a shallow bowl; mix. 5. Dip the fish cakes in the flour and shake off any excess. 6. Next, gently lower the fish cakes into the beaten egg and then roll in the ground malt mixture.
Occasions Fall 2013
7. Refrigerate the fish cakes for 30 minutes. 8. Heat oil over medium heat in a large frying pan. 9. Working in batches, fry the fish cakes until golden brown; approximately 3 minutes per side. 10. Place fish cakes on paper towel to remove excess oil. Editor’s Tip: If you want a bolder, smokier flavour, add more smoked mackerel relative to cod, or consider topping the fish cakes with a slice of smoked salmon or prosciutto. To keep a little texture to your
FOOD & DRINK | Pairings
malt, grind by hand with a pestle and mortar. Our recipe calls for a mixture of caramel and chocolate malt, but mix up the type of malt to suit your own taste. If you can’t find malt replace with a more classic crusting ingredient such as breadcrumbs, panko (Japanese breadcrumbs) or polenta (ground cornmeal).
Oban 14 Year Old (750 ml, $119.98, 1001066)
Garrison Tall Ship Amber (6x341 ml, $12.69, 1001550)
Rayell: I suggest Garrison Tall Ship Amber Ale. This beer boasts sufficient malt flavour, thanks to the combination of different malts used in its production to meet the standout ingredient, the malt crust, of this dish without overwhelming the delicacy of the fishcakes. This ale is smooth with a touch of caramel sweetness, finishing clean and fresh. My favourite Scotch is Oban 14 Year Old, an extremely well-balanced, mature product. It expresses the quintessential smokiness revered by many Scotch lovers, followed by a subtle sweetness and zesty fruit character that will complement the fish.
This Scotch reflects its coastal influence, showing a touch of the sea with a subtle saltiness - making it a beautiful match with seafood.
FOOD & DRINK | Pairings
Pastry Shells with Smoked Chicken, Cabbage and Pancetta
Pastry Shells with Smoked Chicken, Cabbage and Pancetta Makes 24 portions Ingredients: 3 sheets phyllo pastry 4 tbsp butter 8 oz pancetta, cubed ¼ Savoy cabbage, finely shredded 1 ½ cups cooked chicken breasts, chopped ¼ cup Applewood Smoked Cheddar, grated
Directions: 1. Preheat oven to 400 °F. 2. Lightly grease a 24 mini muffin tin. Set aside. 3. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter.
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4. Place a sheet of phyllo on a work surface, while keeping the remaining phyllo covered with plastic wrap and a damp towel. 5. Brush the phyllo sheet with melted butter. 6. Top with a second sheet of phyllo and brush with butter. 7. Repeat with the third and final sheet of phyllo. 8. Cut the phyllo pastry lengthwise into 4 strips, then crosswise into 6 strips. This will make 24 squares. Press the squares into the prepared muffin tin. 9. Bake for 5 minutes. 10. Let cool. Gently remove from the pan.
Occasions Fall 2013
11. Place a sauté pan over medium heat; add the remaining butter and the pancetta. 12. Sauté the pancetta until golden brown on all sides; add the cabbage and sauté for another 4-5 minutes. 13. Add the chicken and sauté for another 1-2 minutes. 14. Place the phyllo cups on a greased baking sheet. Fill the cups with cabbage mixture. 15. Top each with equal amounts of cheese. 16. Place in an oven set to broil for 30 to 60 seconds. You want the cheese to melt but not burn.
wolfville
NOV EM B E R 13
nova scotia
canada
17, 2013
,
celebrate cinema
food and wine
Join us for five packed days of film, food and wine in Nova Scotia where we will serve up the latest from the world of culinary cinema. Participate in wine tours, tastings, pop-ups, industry sessions and gala dinners featuring renowned chefs celebrating the very best of local and international food and wine. DevourFest. Eat it up!
FOOD & DRINK | Pairings
Spice Cake, Whisky Caramel Sauce Editor’s Tip: For an alternative, try filling the cups with crispy pancetta, asparagus tips and Parmesan or a wild mushroom purée topped with goat cheese or grated Manchego, for example.
Teacher’s Highland Cream (750 ml, $28.98, 1000435)
Creemore Springs Premium Lager (473 ml, $3.39, 1014790)
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Rayell: I would consider a relatively less intense Blended Scotch Whisky for this dish, based on the light and flaky nature of the pastry shells. Teacher’s Highland Cream would be a fitting choice. It features a creamy texture and a smoky flavour that would highlight the Applewood Smoked Cheddar and chicken. One of my favourite Canadian beers is Creemore Springs Premium Lager. The refreshing quality of this selection would balance the saltiness of the pancetta and cheese, encouraging another bite.
Spice Cake, Whisky Caramel Sauce Serves 8-10 Ingredients (cake) 1 tbsp baking soda 1 tbsp allspice 1 tbsp cinnamon 11⁄3 cups flour 2 ⁄3 cup sugar 2 eggs ¾ cup Guinness Stout (4x440 ml, $12.75, 1006541) ½ cup butter, room temperature ½ cup molasses
Ingredients (sauce) ½ cup butter 1 cup brown sugar ½ cup whipping cream 1 oz whisky
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FOOD & DRINK | Pairings
Directions (cake): 1. Preheat oven to 350 ºF. 2. Sift the baking soda, allspice, cinnamon and flour in a bowl. 3. In another bowl, combine the sugar, eggs, Stout, butter and molasses. 4. Combine the dry and wet ingredients and mix until a smooth batter is formed. 5. Pour the batter into a greased loaf pan. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes. Directions (sauce): 1. Place the butter in a saucepan over medium-heat. 2. When the butter is melted, add the brown sugar. 3. When the brown sugar has dissolved, add the cream and whisky and continue to cook until the sauce is rich and thick. 4. Cut the cake into slices. Top with the whisky caramel sauce.
Editor’s Note: Any rich, dark spirit, especially those that have been aged in oak such as brandy or premium aged rums, can be used in place of the whisky.
Bowmore Darkest Sherry 15 Year Old (750 ml, $72.98, 1005798)
Innis & Gunn Rum Finish Ale (330 ml, $3.99, 1008823)
Rayell: Recently, I revisited the Innis & Gunn Rum Finish Ale and was promptly reminded of its quality. It is incredibly smooth and lighter on the palate than one
would assume based on the depth of colour in its appearance. It features the influence of aging in rum barrels, which imparts a faint hint of molasses, spice and fruit. A real treat would be to pair the decadent Bowmore Darkest Sherry Cask 15 Year Old with this dish. After spending 12 years resting in Bourbon casks, it sees its last 3 years of aging in Oloroso Sherry casks. There are deep aromas of dried dark fruit, raisins and smoke on the nose, while on palate there is a pleasant sweet toffee flavour. These qualities create a harmonious combination with the spice and rich molasses flavours of the cake.
An
occasion on the
town
The Bistro on Prince
Your Father's Moustache
Rockbottom Brewpub
Located off the lobby of the Holiday Inn Truro – serves breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. Come in, relax and dine with style from one of our full service menus or enjoy a beverage in our quiet and intimate lounge. You'll find options to please every palate.
Your Father’s Moustache is the place to be for great food, fun and live entertainment in downtown Halifax. Our scrumptious menu includes fish and chips, lobster, pasta, steaks, seafood and weekend brunch, all carefully prepared and reasonably priced.
437 Prince Street, Truro, NS (902) 897-8008 | www.bistroonprince.com www.facebook.com/bistroonprince
We offer great daily specials, plus the Moustache is hopping with live entertainment like Joe Murphy and the Water Street Blues Band, a Saturday afternoon tradition.
At the Rockbottom Brewpub there's nothing quite like our truly unique brewpub experience—the type of brewpub experience you can only have at one place. At the Rockbottom Brewpub, award winning brewmaster Greg Nash creates some of Canada's best craft beer right on site. If you're looking for great food, fantastic entertainment and incredible craft beer, make your way to the bottom.
Photo by Babineau Photography
5686 Spring Garden Rd, Halifax, NS (902) 423-2938 | www.rockbottombrewpub.ca
5686 Spring Garden Road, Halifax, NS (902) 423-6766 | www.yourfathersmoustache.ca
Now at the NSLC.
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OCCASIONS | Online Aisle
Mt. Etna (Sicily)
Discover Italy’s Great Red Grapes This autumn, we invite you to discover these great wines from Italy, available from our Online Aisle. In this edition, we sample three of Italy’s finest red grapes, each among a select group of Italian red grape varietal nobility.
Discover Nerello Mascalese Online Although Sicily has produced a number of great wines from international varieties, the newest trend is fine wines produced from native varieties, notably Nero d'Avola, Perricone, and the most exalted of the native red varieties, Nerello Mascalese, grown in vineyards around Mt. Etna. Nerello Mascalese produces exceptionally aromatic red wines, often showcasing red berry, smoke and floral notes. It can be quite tannic, especially when created from a single varietal.
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Online Aisle Selection: Ottoventi Nerello Mascalese Sicilia IGT (Online Aisle, myNSLC.com, $43.79, 1013872)
tones. Natural evolution has led to some slight genetic differences between varietals identified as Sangiovese that are grown in the different parts of Italy — one explanation for some of the variability in style of wines produced from it.
Online Aisle Selection: Badia a Passignano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG (Online Aisle, myNSLC.com, $47.29, 1007326) This 100 per cent Nerello Mascalese delivers a fragrant mix of spice, rose petal and liquorice aromas. The palate is full-bodied and highly focused, boasting firm tannins and pronounced acidity. This wine has good aging potential.
Discover Sangiovese Online No grape is more synonymous with Italian red wine than Sangiovese. Although its former reputation was "watered down" by wineries blending it with less prestigious grapes (often white grapes), it has now fully reclaimed its title as the best red grape from Central Italy. Regardless of origin, good Sangiovese-based wines offer impeccable acid and fruit balance, along with earthy, leathery, cherry and floral Occasions Fall 2013
This is one of Tuscany’s best Chiantis. It is full-bodied, delivering all the savoury richness you’d hope for from a great Sangiovese. Look for lots of leather, herb, cherry and violet aromas and flavours. The palate is quite velvety, but still finishes with ample drying tannins and lifted, food-friendly acidity.
Discover Nebbiolo Online Nebbiolo is the great red grape of Piedmont. Its name pays homage to the foggy mists (nebbia) that shroud the hills in
OCCASIONS | Online Aisle
Tuscany
that region. This late-ripening variety makes many of the most tannic and long-lived red wines of Italy. The names and reputations of wines like Barolo, Barbaresco and Gatinarra rest solely on this one variety. The best Nebbiolo wines boast rich aromas with floral, earthy and varying levels of fruit: expect darker, fresh fruit flavours in modern styles and more dried fruit flavours in the most traditional styles. While rarely very heavy, Nebbiolo produces surprisingly full-bodied wines.
Piedmont
Rich tannic structures and pronounced acidity make wines made from Nebbiolo capable of extended cellaring.
Online Aisle Selection: Pio Cesare Barbaresco (Online Aisle, myNSLC.com. $67.49, 1002492)
Chicken Salad with Sauvignon Blanc Vinaigrette
Ingredients: 1 lb 1 1/2 cups 8 inch 1 Tbsp + 1/4 cup 4 cloves 2 Tbsp 3 Tbsp 1 tsp 1 Tbsp 1/4 tsp 1/2 tsp 1/2 tsp 12 cups 1/2 cup 1/4 cup
bone-in, skinless chicken breasts sauvignon blanc white wine whole grain baguette olive oil garlic, minced shallots, minced lemon juice lemon zest white wine vinegar salt black pepper sugar Romaine lettuce flat leaf parsley, chopped Romano cheese, grated
This flavourful salad is a delicious, healthy alternative to a chicken Caesar salad. The delicately tart-sweet flavour of the Sauvignon Blanc vinaigrette brings together the wine-poached chicken, robust Romaine, and savoury Romano cheese beautifully. Chicken Farmers of Nova Scotia
Chicken Farmers of Nova Scotia For information and recipes call (902) 681-7400 Visit us on Facebook for MORE RECIPES
Serves 4 / Cook time : 25 min / Preparation time : 15 min
Now at the NSLC.
Pio Cesare has crafted a remarkably fragrant wine with aromatic appeal. Berry, spice and rose petal aromas precede a palate with a solid core of sweet fruit, complemented by fine acidity and firm tannins.
Directions: Add white wine to a shallow skillet, slowly bring to a boil on medium low heat. Add chicken breasts, cover and poach approximately 20 minutes until chicken is cooked through and reaches an internal temperature of 165°F (74°C). Turn off and allow chicken to cool in juices. Reserve the pan juices. Remove meat from bone and shred. Set aside. Turn heat to medium high and boil wine broth until reduced to ¼ cup. Meanwhile make croutons using half of a wholegrain baguette. Slice baguette in half down the centre. Brush both sides with olive oil. Cut into 1 inch (2.5 cm) square cubes. Toss with finely minced garlic. Place on baking sheet and bake at 350°F (180°C) for 10-15 minutes or until golden. Make the vinaigrette by combining shallots, lemon juice, lemon zest, white wine vinegar, salt, pepper and sugar. Stir in hot wine and allow it to cool then whisk in olive oil. Tear romaine lettuce into bite size pieces and divide among the 4 dinner plates. Sprinkle with parsley. Top with garlic croutons, shredded chicken and vinaigrette. Garnish each plate with Romano cheese.
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Beer Basics | Trends
Beer & Food Pairing 101 by Steve Riley Steve Riley is a Certified Cicerone, the beer equivalent of a sommelier and President of BetterBeer.com. He is one of only a handful of Certified Cicerones in Canada, and is a recognized beer judge. It’s that time of year again. The kids are back to school, the leaves are falling from the trees, the temperature is dropping, and it’s back to the old autumn routine for most of us. It’s also usually the time that dinner parties start to happen more frequently. With that in mind, I thought it would be a great idea to share some guidelines and tips you can use to host your own beer dinner.
example. The perceived sweetness of the malt balances the sweetness of the barbeque sauce and meat: the weight and texture of this beer syncs nicely with the dense, rich food.
Example: Garrison Irish Red Ale (6x341ml, $12.79, 1000803)
warming, autumnal combination. Bitterness accentuates spiciness, whereas malt character masks it. If you try the IPA and soup pairing I’ve suggested, keep in mind that the soup will taste spicier than it would with a Northern English Ale, which is more malty.
Example: Propeller India Pale Ale (6x341ml, $12.99, 1006639)
Beer & Food Pairing 101 When pairing beer and food, the essence is to match the flavour intensities of each. Neither should overpower the other; they should be in balance. This is called a complementary approach to pairing beer and food. A malty ale with notes of caramel and a rack of barbequed ribs are a good
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You can also use the carbonation and hop character in beer to cut through fatty, rich components of food. By cutting through the fats, the beer cleanses your palate, so every bite of food tastes as good as the first. Try a dry IPA (India Pale Ale) that boasts a lot of hop character with a sharp cheddar chipotle-cream soup for a
Occasions Fall 2013
Finally, look for flavour similarities. A spinach salad with Mandarin orange pieces makes a superlative pairing to a Belgian Wit brewed with dried orange peel. Hungry yet?
Example: Rickard’s White (12x341ml, $24.99, 1006841)
Beer Basics | Trends
Lightest to Heaviest Most meals are planned to move from light foods to heavier ones. We usually start with something small and light in texture such as a salad, then have a protein with vegetables and starch sides, and finally, dessert. Plan to serve beers the same way. Don't pair a heavy Stout with an appetizer and then a Pilsner with your main course. Open with a light-bodied, mildly flavoured beer before moving to fuller, heavier styles.
Examples: Czechvar Pilsner (light) (500ml, $3.19, 1012868)
Erdinger Dunkel Weissbier (medium) (500ml, $3.99, 1007211)
Fuller’s London Porter (full-bodied) (500ml, $3.45, 1011137)
Seasonality
Granville Island Kitsilano Maple Cream Ale (new) (6x341ml, $12.79, 1018365)
Pick the Beer First
Menus are typically connected to the time of year. A light salad, grilled salmon with asparagus and rice and sorbet for dessert would typically be served in the summer, not the fall. In the cooler autumn months, we hunger for heartier styles. Forego light lagers and wheat beers for the darkest and heaviest of lagers, robust ales and even the occasional Stout or Porter.
Wells Banana Bread Ale (medium) (500ml, $3.99, 1017913)
Now at the NSLC.
While there are hundreds of beer choices at your local NSLC store, there are millions of food recipes to choose from! A good practice is to decide which beers you want at your dinner, then select your dishes, rather than vice versa. Get to know the flavour profiles of your chosen beers, which (if the beer is new to you) are on the back label of the bottle, on mynslc.com or the brewery’s own website. Be sure your beer selection shows a range of styles: four light lagers are just different shades of gray—not the desired outcome for a memorable meal!
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Beer Basics |Trends Know Your Guests
The Confidence Course
While you may be well versed in which model of machine was used to cultivate the hops in a particular beer, most people are not. If your guests' beer experience is confined mostly to light North American lagers, serving them a high-alcohol, barrel-aged Imperial Coffee Stout, for example, probably won’t go over well. For less adventurous guests, experiment with transition-style beers. That is, something more flavourful than what they are used to, but still approachable.
Everybody has one dish that they knock out of the park every time they serve it. Make sure that your go-to dish is on the menu! You know the flavour profiles of this dish better than anyone, so finding a beer should be easy, even if other pairings don’t work perfectly, this one will. To be absolutely sure, try the dish out a couple weeks before your dinner party, with a few different selections from the NSLC. Now you'll know you have a guaranteed winner. Consider it your confidence course!
Example: Innis & Gunn Original Ale (330 ml, $3.85, 1001464)
If you are looking for a good book about beer and food pairing, order a copy of “The Brewmaster’s Table” by Garret Oliver from your favourite book retailer.
Centre for Craft and Design Whet your “palette” for fine, handmade craft created by more than 70 Cape Breton Artisans
Gifts for all occasions:
Cape Breton CRAFTS
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Metal • Pottery • Textiles • Jewellery Wood • Visual Art and more Visit the Gallery Shop at 322 Charlotte Street in Downtown Sydney www.capebretoncraft.com holley@capebretoncraft.com Phone: (902) 270-7491 Photo Credit: Sociable Board by Bob Evans, Wine Stopper by Norm Smith, Wine Goblets by Jitka Zgola
Occasions Fall 2013
It’s considered the go-to book for beer and food pairing by most in the industry, including myself. Cheers!
DID YOU KNOW? | Occasions
Italian Wine By Doug Watling
Valpolicella
Chianti
Barolo
Italy is the world’s second-largest producer of wine, topped only by France. Thanks to climate, geography and a deeply rooted wine culture, Italy produces 100 times more wine than Canada, despite being only 3 per cent Canada’s size. Meanwhile Canada, 31st in world wine production, is no slouch! Two of the most influential wine trends of the past decade originated in Italy. Pinot Grigio and Moscato have exploded in popularity and are now grown around the globe, but the models are Italian — light, dry Pinot Grigio from Friuli and Trentino-Alto Adige, and the sweeter Moscato d’Asti, from Piedmont. Moscato, by the way, is the sole grape in Asti Spumante, the best-selling sparkler worldwide. Chianti is in many ways the quintessential red wine, but the Italian DOC regulations of 1967 mandated a 10 per cent minimum (30 per cent maximum) of white grapes in the blend. In 1971, Antinori defiantly changed its single-vineyard Tignanello from a Chianti Classico to a simple red table wine “made without white grapes.” Ironically, Tignanello kick-started a quality revolution that put Italian wine on the world map.
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Valpolicella, like Chianti, Barolo and many other familiar Italian wines, is a wine region, not a style of wine or a grape. Valpolicella is actually made from a number of grape varieties and comes in a variety of styles. One of the current favourite styles is Ripasso, created by pumping regular Valpolicella onto the lees (residue left over from fermentation) of top-of-the-line Amarone. The result is a more supercharged (and expensive) Valpolicella. Italian whites like Orvieto and Soave continue to be as popular as ever but their styles are changing. Orvieto and Soave reached their peak of popularity in the 70s and 80s but have since been eclipsed by Pinot Grigio. In an effort to reclaim their market share they are now being made in a more complex, balanced and less neutral style. Orvieto was originally sweet (labelled as amabile). These days, only 5 percent of Orvieto is made in the original style. While Soave producers are now relying less on the neutral tasting Trebbiano grape in favour of the aromatically rich Garganega grape. The south of Italy and Sicily are becoming wine lovers’ regions of choice for quality and value. Italy’s southern provinces have undergone a quality renaissance in the past few years. Grapes like Negroamaro, Primitivo and Sicily’s Nero d’Avola are widely available and on the verge of becoming household names.
Occasions Fall 2013
E RVEZA. ERVE ZA.
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