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espritcontents COVERS: The Noir Premier Collection highlights the milestones of LALIQUE’s history with contemporary fragrances inspired by a legacy full of boldness and modernity. As diaphanous as the wings of a dragonfly, as sensual as the curves of a woman’s body, ILLUSION CAPTIVE offers a shimmering olfactory translation of Lalique’s iconic ‘Libellule’ brooch. An exquisite golden chypre that takes flight with fig leaves, jasmine, labdanum and myrrh.
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contents 6 esprit News
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A look at what’s making news in your beauty industry, including our regular contribution from author, perfume blogger and multi Jasmine Award-winner, Persolaise. This month, he looks back at some of the best fragrance releases of 2017, which caused a stir in scented cyberspace. We also have award-winning beauty Nutritionist, Kathryn Danzey, offering her expert advice on how to give your skincare routine a spring clean!
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Owner & Founder/Editor Lorraine Wilson-Morris Business Communications Manager Maria Tatchley Art Editor/Production Terence Wilson Regular Contributors Darren Scott Jo Sanford Kathryn Danzey Persolaise Suzy Nightingale Vicci Bentley esprit Sandron Publishing Ltd 87 Roundwood Way, Banstead, Surrey SM7 1EJ T: 01737 373099 E: esprit@esprit-magazine.co.uk W: www.esprit-magazine.co.uk Subscription Rates £95 UK - £105 Overseas (incl. Rep of Ireland) (non-refundable), inc P&P. Back copies: £12 per issue Print Production Partners Colouration 7 - 15 Falcon Court, St Martin’s Way, London SW17 0JH T: 020 8946 4466 E: info@colouration.london W: www.colouration.london Esprit ISSN 1364-9922
16 The Interview - Antoine Maisondieu
Perfumer, Antoine Maisondieu, has created fragrances for many prestigious brands, including his latest release: Montblanc Legend Night. But it was not always his intention to persue a career in perfumery, despite being born in Grasse, the world’s fragrance capital
18 Skincare - Multi-step vs Multi-tasking
With a multitude of skincare options on offer, finding the correct one to suit a customer’s needs becomes increasingly difficult - Suzy Nightingale looks at some of the latest innovative formulas on offer
20 Did Christmas Figure Out for You ?
esprit’s annual Christmas Review where we ask a selection of beauty companies and retailers to share their views on Christmas sales
26 Beauty Related
A selection of new products making their way into the marketplace include: Le Parfum in White, a dazzling white floral bouquet from Elie Saab; Givenchy launch Live Irrésistible Blossom Crush, the latest addition to the Irrésistible collection of fragrances; Floris collaborate with whisky producer, Kilchoman, to produce Islay Eau de Parfum; Nina Ricci introduce Les Monstres de Nina Ricci, two fun interpretations of Nina and Luna; Acqua di Parma launch Le Nobile Roll on Collection, a trio of fragrances offered in a 15ml roll on; Smashbox Cosmetics introduce the Cali Contour Palette, six blendable California-inspired shades; Nivea launch new Shower Silk Mousses and newly imporved Q10 Firming Body Lotion and Decléor introduce Aroma Cleanse Bi-Phase Caring Cleanser & Makeup Remover esprit do not provide PDF copies for editorial included in the magazine. PDF’s are only supplied to advertisers for colour approval. All rights reserved. Articles published in this magazine may not be reproduced in any form without the written permission of the publisher. Sandron Publishing accepts no responsibility for advertising claims made in this magazine, nor for statements made in editorial contributions from external sources, or in those reproduced from any other source. All material submitted for publication in esprit is at the owners risk. esprit contains photographs that may be provided and paid for by its suppliers.
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esprit march 2018 - celebrating
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editor’s welcome Welcome! Many of us ‘sprang’ too early for ‘spring’ this month....me included! There were so many ‘spring is here’ references on social media channels that we all peaked far too soon and got caught out by the ‘Beast from the East’!
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However, official spring is almost upon us and I welcome this lovely time of the year with open arms. As you may know, esprit is celebrating its 30th Anniversary year during 2018, with the April issue being the big one for me, as the very first issue was published back in April 1988. I still remember the excitement I felt when the issue arrived from the printers....the first premium business beauty magazine had arrived. So, to help celebrate this great milestone and achievement, I would like to take this opportunity of asking for your support in making the April issue one to remember! However, I couldn’t have produced or still produce esprit without having the support and dedication from a small, but great team; a huge thank you to Terry and Maria, as well as esprit’s regular and talented contributors. Meanwhile, in this month’s issue, we have an exclusive interview with Antoine Maisondiieu (page 16), a Perfumer who has created many prestigious fragrances, as well as an informative skincare feature on the latest multi-tasking products (page 18). Furthermore, we have our popular annual Christmas Review 2017 where companies share their views on how their brands fared over the festive season (page 20). And finally, we have our regular columns from Kathryn Danzey on Beauty Within and Persolaise’s Net Scent page. Enjoy the read!
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Lorraine Wilson-Morris Editor
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espritnews
CEW kick-start the 2018 Beauty Awards CEW recently held its Product Demonstration Evening where over 700 CEW members, guests and press descended on Olympia London to witness a showcase of outstanding innovation and creativity across 27 categories kick starting this year’s CEW Beauty Awards During this three-hour event, attendees had the opportunity of visiting brand experts at their beauty stations where they were shown demonstrations on the latest and iconic beauty products. Furthermore, there was a Relaxtion Area where attendees enjoyed a glass of Prosecco, as well as indulge in a variety of treatments including manicures from Amazon, makeup looks from M&S, Dyson hairstyling from QVC, and appointments with NARS catwalk Makeup Artists. With over 300 products being submitted, the Awards this year have seen a growth in the skincare, premium and wellbeing categories as well as
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Revlon to bottle fashion scents
Multinational cosmetics company, Revlon, has signed an exclusive global license agreement with fashion company, AllSaints Retail Limited, for the development, marketing, and distribution of fragrances
AllSaints is a global, digital, contempary brand, which made its debut in 1994, and is known for creating ready-to-wear continued growth in the success of the ‘Eco Beauty Award’. The CEW Beauty Awards are the only Beauty Awards that are voted for by professionals working within the industry. At the end of the event attendees were presented The CEW Product Demonstration evening - guests also had the opportunity to indulge in a variety of beauty treatments on offer
with a CEW bag which housed a selection of products from exhibitors to be tested before casting their vote in each product category. The Winners Announcement Lunch will be taking place on Friday 20th April 2018 at the London Hilton, Park Lane.
Contemporary fashion and accessories brand: AllSaints
attire, as well as accessories for men and women. Headquartered in East London, the core values of AllSaints are individuality with an East London attitude. “We are proud to partner with an industry leader, Revlon, to launch the AllSaints fragrance collection,” said William Kim, CEO of AllSaints. “Revlon’s strategic approach is perfectly aligned with our brand vision and global growth focus and we look forward to creating a fragrance collection with Revlon which embodies these attributes.” Serge Jureidini, President, Revlon, Elizabeth Arden and Fragrances at Revlon, added: “AllSaints’ impressive footprint and customer-centric mindset is perfectly aligned with Revlon’s strategy and our focus to accelerate our global business”.
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esprit march 2018 - celebrating
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christmasreview2017
christmas figureout for you ?
did
by lorraine wilson-morris
It appeared that more retailers participated in some form of promotional activity and were more organised in welcoming Black Friday and Cyber Monday this year, by carefully planning more targeted promotions and extending these activities for a week rather than just over a weekend. Some, now even stretching the promotional period over two weeks! Could the UK be heading for a ‘Black Fortnight’?
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urthermore, with the weakness of the pound during the past year this did make the UK a more desirable and definitely affordable country for many foreign visitors, especially for the capital, where many tourists like to browse our prestige department stores. It was reported by The Office for National Statistics that visitors to the UK reached 4 million for the first time ever in July 2017, with a particular surge in US tourists, increasing over 20%. And the popularity of the UK seems set to continue with the Lonely Planet guide book naming the country one of its top 10 best value destinations to visit in 2018. With Christmas Eve falling on a Sunday this provided the ideal opportunity for very late shoppers to finish buying last-minute gifts. Also, with the restricted opening hours due to Sunday trading regulations, it was the last day for stores to deal with the influx of shoppers rushing to buy gifts in time to present on Christmas Day! Finally, Market Research company, Ipsos, reported that the number of shoppers hitting the High Street on Boxing Day was also 5% down on 2016’s level. Whereas 28th December was the busiest day of the year for shoppers, but footfall on that day was also 8.6% lower than it was on the same day in 2016. So, were Christmas sales ringing up a storm or was the festive period as mild as the weather for this time of the year? According to NPD, 54% of fragrance sales happened at Christmas 2017 with 34% of sales occurring in December, which is an almost identical pattern to Christmas 2016.
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In esprit’s annual review we asked a selection of companies to share their overview on ‘How did Christmas sales fare for your brand(s)?’
the suppliers and brands Acqua di Parma Marion Paupert - Head of Commercial
“Christmas sales remained strong for Acqua di Parma. However we have indeed noted a shift in our sales phasing, with November weight getting heavier and December’s reducing a little bit. We do think that more and more customers are seeing Black Friday as an opportunity to not only kick start their Christmas shopping but also to stock up on their favourite items. “Furthermore, we have definitely noticed that over the last few years, retailers have developed together with brands more and more exciting experiences in stores. This includes not only personalisation
did you know? The top 10 most mentioned fragrances at Christmas represented 20% of all Christmas fragrance editorial content (PR) across all the media types combined (print, online, social media and blogs) (Source: My Market Insight)
esprit march 2018 - celebrating
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did you know? 50% of retailers selling luxury fragrance through Amazon UK at Christmas were non-UK based (Source: My Market Insight)
options but also opportunities to meet and greet experts and have truly personalised consultations. As convenient as online shopping can be, there are many experiences to be had in stores, which cannot be fully translated online. We feel there is still more that could be done to entice customers in store, and would love to be able to express our Art of Gifting in even more doors. This, together with our personalisation options, does contribute to making each Acqua di Parma gift really unique and is worth going into stores for!”
Best Sellers - “Our Christmas coffrets always do really well as they are so festive and luxurious. Within our permanent portfolio, our top three best sellers were our classic Colonia fragrance, our new Colonia Pura launched last summer, and our Colonia Oud from our Ingredient Collection.” Aspects Beauty Company Jon Dunn - Commercial Director
“It was a challenging December for the whole industry. We had strong retail over the Black Friday period though the two weeks afterwards seemed to be unusually quiet in the High Street, which had not been the case the previous year. For Aspects Beauty, December retail finished only +3%, our weakest month’s growth for the whole year. Up until then, we’d been growing with double-digit increases throughout 2017. Our Chains business was -1% in December with Department Stores +2%. The biggest growth for us came from e-tailers, with a staggering growth of +249% over the month. We finished the year +23%, which was above our budget, so we were very satisfied to achieve that in a market that is so lacklustre. “The biggest challenge was again with coffrets. We reduced our volume level of sell-in and reduced our % markdown. However, the % sell through pre-Christmas was again below 50% and so we will continue to reduce our dependence on Christmas sets this year. The consumer only wants to buy them when they are in the January Sale as they are now seen as a value offering and no longer value-added. We heard that the best-selling sets were those that included full sized make-up products, which we were unable to offer. “We provided more and better support in our Department Stores with gift wrap and ribbon, Christmas Limited Editions and coffret towers, to create stand out, improve visibility, and to stimulate impulse buy. “We noted the lack of any real blockbuster launches in the second half of last year and indeed, Aspects had very little NPD throughout the whole of 2017. This year we have the hotly-anticipated launch of Versace Dylan Blue pour Femme,
celebrating
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as well as strong launches from Ferragamo, Trussardi and our other brands too. So, this year should be more of a feast than a famine from an NPD point of view. “The ‘jewel in the crown’ for Aspects has been the continued success of our niche fragrance collection, doubling our retail sales last year. We now have more than 15 niche fragrance brands targeted at Harrods, Harvey Nichols and Selfridges. We’re also seeing more retailers keen to develop a niche offering to provide a point of difference and to reduce their dependency on the more global fashion fragrance brands that are so dominant in the Chains, and of course, subject to discounting and price promotion. The niche fragrances are far less reliant on Christmas sales and sell throughout the year, but are still predominantly London focussed and aimed at the International visitors to the capital, who are now happy to shop since the drop in the value of the pound against the Euro and the US Dollar. In these uncertain times, we remain positive and hope that the outcome of the Brexit negotiations at the end of March 2019 maintains London as a destination city for the world.”
Best Sellers - “Our best sellers were in Versace with Eros,
Dylan Blue and Crystal Noir very strong at that time of the year. With Moschino, we had excellent sales on the new Fresh Gold that launched in December just in time to benefit from Christmas gifting. A relatively new brand to us, Eight & Bob also had strong sales over the festive period as it is a very giftable brand.”
Coty Luxury UK & IRELAND Alexis Vaganay - General Manager
“Our sales were up versus last year mainly due to the great innovation across our portfolio including Gucci Bloom and the Tiffany&Co fragrance with its signature Blue Box. Coty Luxury’s solid performance has also been driven by classic icons like BOSS Bottled and Marc Jacobs Daisy. “The category remained healthy in December and ahead of many other beauty categories showing that the retailers continue to support Fragrances. Department Stores performed especially well providing a selective experience.”
Best Sellers - “Our top sellers were Gucci Bloom, Tiffany,
BOSS Bottled and Marc Jacobs Daisy. These results were enabled by continued investment in our classic fragrances on top of supporting the new blockbuster launches.”
Elemis Oriele Frank - Chief Marketing Officer
“This year was one of the most successful Christmas trading periods for the brand. The collections performed outstandingly with a strong buy-in from retailers and sell-through was the best the brand has ever seen. Black Friday was much stronger
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