espritcontents COVERS: To celebrate ten years, the Million story continues with the launch of an intoxicating wave of addiction - 1 Million Lucky and Lady Million Lucky, new fragrances by Paco Rabanne. Featuring Jordan Barrett and Sophia Ahrens in a new campaign, the duo are pushed to the limit of their sensuality, a magnetic dance, more nocturnal, more daring. Seize control of luck and make it your destiny
contents 6 esprit News
A look at what’s making news in your beauty industry, including our regular contribution from author, perfume blogger and multi Jasmine Award-winner, Persolaise. This month, he talks with Christine Nagel, Hermès in-house Perfumer. We also have award-winning beauty Nutritionist, Kathryn Danzey, offering her expert advice for future brides, and how to prepare for the approaching ‘big day’. esprit is also excited to be welcoming our newest contributing columnist, multi award-winning Marc Rosen, one of the world’s leading packaging designers
20 Fragrance Feature - Powerhouse Perfumes Owner & Founder/Editor Lorraine Wilson-Morris Business Communications Manager Maria Tatchley Art Editor/Production Terence Wilson Regular Contributors Darren Scott Jo Sanford Kathryn Danzey Marc Rosen Persolaise Suzy Nightingale Vicci Bentley esprit Sandron Publishing Ltd 87 Roundwood Way, Banstead, Surrey SM7 1EJ T: 01737 373099 E: esprit@esprit-magazine.co.uk W: www.esprit-magazine.co.uk Subscription Rates £95 UK - £105 Overseas (incl. Rep of Ireland) (non-refundable), inc P&P. Back copies: £12 per issue Print Production Partners Colouration 7 - 15 Falcon Court, St Martin’s Way, London SW17 0JH T: 020 8946 4466 E: info@colouration.london W: www.colouration.london Esprit ISSN 1364-9922
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Similar to some of the big and powerful fragrances that were making a statement in the 80s, a trend for bigger, bolder scents is making a welcome return. Suzy Nightingale embraces some of the latest fragrances that are definitely not ‘shrinking violets’
28 Lives in Beauty - Lorraine Wilson-Morris
As esprit celebrates its 30th year in publishing, what better time to get some insight on one of it’s founding members esprit’s editor, Lorraine Wilson-Morris
32 Client Testimonials
In an ever-changing media environment, esprit is still seen as a valued publication...but don’t take our word for it!...read what a selection of our clients think about us
34 Beauty Related
A selection of new products making their way into the marketplace include: Bentley Momentum Unlimited, the latest addition to the Momentum fragrance range; Philosophy introduce two new members into the Grace family of fragrances with Pure Grace Nude Rose and Amazing Grace Ballet Rose; Guerlain add Passiflora to their popular Aqua Allegoria fragrance collection; Paco Rabanne celebrates 10 years of the Million fragrance portfolio with the introduction of 1 Million Lucky and Lady Million Lucky editions; Acqua di Parma launch Chinotto di Liguria, the newest member of the Blu Mediterraneo fragrance collection; Elemis continue to combat the signs of anti-ageing and stressed skin with the introduction of Pro-Collagen Overnight Matrix and Dynamic Resurfacing Facial Pads, and the luminous gourmand addictive sweet flavours of the fair are captured in the latest Mugler fragrance, Angel Fruity Fair esprit do not provide PDF copies for editorial included in the magazine. PDF’s are only supplied to advertisers for colour approval. All rights reserved. Articles published in this magazine may not be reproduced in any form without the written permission of the publisher. Sandron Publishing accepts no responsibility for advertising claims made in this magazine, nor for statements made in editorial contributions from external sources, or in those reproduced from any other source. All material submitted for publication in esprit is at the owners risk. esprit contains photographs that may be provided and paid for by its suppliers.
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editor’s welcome Welcome to esprit’s 30th Anniversary edition
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Firstly, thank you to all of you who sent in fabulous testimonials for esprit’s 30th Anniversary (page 32). I couldn’t have written them better myself! Also, I was pleased to see that Kenneth Green hasn’t lost his great sense of humour! As we received so many testimonials, we will be including them throughout forthcoming editions of esprit. Secondly, I’m quite in awe that esprit has made the 30th year mark in print format. With all the technology that has been gracing our lives and working environment, it appears some magazines are now only available digitally. I’m going to continue printing esprit, but it’s inevitable that esprit should be available in a digital format as well. I believe it’s called ‘keeping up with technology’!! However, I intend to make 2018 esprit’s year, and your help in doing this will be very much appreciated.
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As many of you may know, esprit was approached by Copra to produce and design this year’s Copra Awards Lunch Programme, with proceeds going to Look Good Feel Better. So, another ‘thank you’ to those who have kindly supported this with sponsorship packages, advertising and product donations. Meanwhile, in this month’s issue, we have a seven-page fragrance feature reporting on how bigger and bolder scents from the 80s/90s are making their way back on to perfumery counters. Also, we have included a number of industry people who have divulged what scents they discovered and dabbed behind the ears, or on their pulse points, during this era! And as usual, we have all our regular features, including News, Spa & Salon News and Beauty Retated. Please enjoy the read!
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Soccer star joins fragrance team World-class England football player, Harry Kane, (pictured below) has agreed to a new signing with BOSS Parfums, part of the Coty Luxury portfolio, as its new fragrance Ambassador. He will join an exclusive circle of inspiring men to front the BOSS Parfums soccer campaign
He added: “You must be professional and work harder than the rest to make it to the top. I used to go to the park with my dad and brother to practice when I was a child and my dad instilled the mentality in me to keep going and never give up, even when things don’t go your way.” Harry Kane currently plays as a striker for Premier League club Tottenham Hotspur and the English national team and will be seen in his new fragrant position in May 2018.
The 24 year-old striker has been awarded Premier League Player of the Month six times and won the coveted Golden Boot award twice. “I have become the player I am today through dedication,” expressed Harry.
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Vogue has announced its first ever Vogue Beauty Awards, in partnership with FeelUnique and Pinterest The Vogue beauty team has chosen a shortlist of nominees across twenty-two different categories, and Vogue readers had have their say on the winners by voting, too. “After the success of the Vogue 100 Beauty Hall of Fame last year, we have decided to make our Beauty Awards an annual event celebrating the very best the beauty industry has to offer,” said Jessica Diner, Beauty and Lifestyle Director at British Vogue.
The categories for Vogue’s inaugural Beauty Awards are:
Lifetime Achievement Award Services To Diversity l Best Influencer Brand l Beauty Game-Changer Of The Year l The Skintellectual Highlight l New Kid On The Block l Textured Hair Hero l Champion For Sustainability l Most Memorable Ad Campaign l Most Instagrammable Packaging l Best Beauty Gadget l Skin Enhancer Of The Year l The Make-Up Transformer l The Multitasker l The Eye Definers l The Natural Phenomenon In Skincare l The Ultimate Skin Solution l Hair Industry Innovator l The Body Transformer l The Best In Alternative Beauty l Best Niche Fragrance l Best Blockbuster Scent All the winners will be announced at a morning event to take place on Friday, 8th June. The July issue of Vogue will also be available on the same date. For further information, email Richard Pickard in the Vogue press office at: richard.pickard@condenast.co.uk l
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Three Million milestone
The Perfume Shop celebrated after its Rewards Club hit three million members. Launched in 2011, the Rewards Club offers its members exclusive rewards and benefits when they shop online and in its stores
Vogue’s first Beauty Awards
“We’re really excited to reach this milestone of 3 million members for our Rewards Club,” said Cathy Newman, The Perfume Shop’s Marketing and Customer Experience Director. “We work hard to ensure our members receive exclusive benefits that excite them, including exclusive previews of new launches and discounts, and we believe this has been a driving force behind the club’s success.” The Perfume Shop is the UK’s largest specialist fragrance retailer with over Gill Smith, Managing Director, 260 shops The Perfume nationwide, Shop, with the selling all three millionth major designer Rewards Club fragrance member, and Thea Wilson, Head of brands at Loyalty, The value for Perfume Shop money prices.
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Lorraine Wilson founder & associated beauty editor, esprit magazine b y
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When esprit burst onto the beauty scene, Lorraine and her camera fast became welcome fixtures at breakfast, lunches, balls and suppers, recording the people, products and launches that make our industry a global success. Now, celebrating 30 years of her own success story, Lorraine shares her insights and vision for the UK’s leading magazine for premium perfumery, cosmetics and skincare How did you get involved in the beauty business?
Beauty has fascinated me since childhood, when I’d watch my mother putting on her makeup. She’d let me play with the various tubes and palettes - and I was hooked. When I came to leave school, a career in beauty wasn’t an option. So like many young women, I became a Secretary/PA, which led me to working for a publishing company called Reed International in Sutton, Surrey. From there, I worked my way up and joined Hairdresser’s Journal,
Award-winning beauty writer, Vicki Bentely, with Lorraine
Big hair...and big personality, Lorraine during the eighties when esprit was launched 28
then Health & Beauty Salon, followed by Hair magazine as the Editorial Assistant. Seven years later, I joined Beauty Counter magazine as Deputy Editor and it was here that my then business partner and I realised the lack of premium professional magazines out there. It was all about pharmaceutical and toiletriesbased publications - and no prestige company such as Dior, YSL and Estée Lauder would
be seen next to ads for sanitary products. That’s where the idea for esprit came from.
What kind of impact did it make?
esprit was fresh and new and there was nothing quite like it on the market. We didn’t use the term back then, but I like to think that we were the first beauty retail media influencer in print. Initially, it was hard to get companies
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n -Morris to invest in us without actually seeing anything, but because they knew who we were from the Beauty Counter and Hair Magazine days, they trusted us to come up with a slick, professional product. Nevertheless, starting a new, premium magazine was no walk in the park. We were totally self-funding and I’ll admit it was scary giving up a regular income knowing that the mortgage had to be paid. It took about five months, seven days a week and literally hundreds of phone calls to build up a distribution list. Thankfully, we had lots of support from companies who had faith in us and esprit was finally born.
And of course it helped that people got their faces in the magazine. You played it very much like Tatler’s society pages
A lot of people got excited if they saw themselves in the magazine. In its heyday it was so wonderful to know that people supported you and loved what we did. It was the beginning for us. I thought ‘this is it.’ You don’t think about it ever changing.
What do you consider has been your greatest success, both with esprit and in your life?
given them a launch platform where they can let everyone know how proud they are of their brand’s performances. And of course, people enjoyed being featured in the magazine in our Hot Off The Press pages. It goes without saying that I’m immensely honoured to have received a FiFi Commendation Award for Innovative Marketing and Promotion of the Industry in 2013. (FiFi is now known as The Fragrance Foundation). However, my greatest success story is my fire-fighter son, Miles, who is 22 in May. I thought I couldn’t have children, so when he came along, esprit took my ‘second baby’ place. That’s life and it’s a blessing.
The beauty industry is a far tougher place than it was 30 years ago. How have you faced the challenges?
There have been some tough times, I can’t deny it. But something inside has always told me to keep going. I’ve come too far to just walk away. To keep succeeding, you have to grow and progress with what happens around you. The 90s recession did have an impact on esprit, but key
I like to think that esprit has given the beauty industry more of a sense of community. Companies have liked having a magazine they could genuinely be part of - and that’s something unique to retail. We’ve provided them with a tool to get their message across by covering whatever they’ve wanted us to cover, reporting everything they’ve wished to be known. Whether it’s been a new product, a training initiative or an exclusive in Harrods or Selfridges, we’ve
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Receiving the FiFi Commendation Award in June 2012, for Innovative Marketing and Promotion of the Industry
companies continued to believe in us. Now, more then ever, it’s important to have the right support and mutual trust is crucial. Over the years, I’ve had tremendous support and encouragement from a number of companies who have contributed to esprit’s ongoing success. Also, I have a great team - small, but dedicated - and fabulous freelance writers. At the end of the day, the real secret of success is loving what you do because you spend so much energy working with it. After 30 years, esprit is still my love story.
You often work long hours, so how do you take a break?
One of Lorraine’s proudest and greatest successes - her Fire-fighter son, Miles, who will be 22 next month
I do work long hours, but owning and managing your own company is part of it. A very small team produces esprit and a lot of work is involved in getting it right. However, I try not to work at weekends unless I have to. I tend to go to the US for the month of September, but my work comes with me. The difference is a change of scenery and weekends off to play. I’m fortunate I can do 29
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Lorraine Wilson -Morris founder & associated beauty editor, esprit magazine
this due to having a great little team and computing technology! I make it work.
Lorraine with Actor and BOSS brand Ambassador, Gerard Butler
What do you like most about the industry?
Everything! Although I’ve seen many changes over the years it still has been a very exciting industry to work in…and hopefully will remain so! Working in the beauty industry I have met and befriended many people over the years. You spend so much time in the work place, it’s important to build on a good working relationship. Also, it’s nice to support each other when necessary. As many of you may know, we work closely with Copra by offering a complimentary service for producing and designing the Copra Ball Programme, as well as this year’s Copra Lunch Beauty Awards Programme. I like to help out where we can. We are all in the same industry and one of the best to be in. I still love everything about beauty. However, I’m not sure if it’s going to love me in further years to come!!!
Skincare, haircare, makeup, fragrance - which is your favourite topic?
Definitely fragrance. There isn’t a day I don’t wear it, because I firmly believe scent has the power to change the way you feel about yourself. Maybe it’s a cliché, but scents help me to feel like me and I choose them to reflect my
Lorraine with Kenneth Green, Kenneth Green Associates and Sir Paul Smith
(Right): Lorraine with esprit’s Marie Tatchley during a London store launch event with her infectious sense of fun, it’s obvious how much Lorraine enjoys her job! Lorraine with Colouration’s Tony Dennington and Dawn Evident
mood: for example, on quiet days I’ll wear something light and soft. I used to like rather sweet, floral fragrances such as Ghost original, but my scent preferences have shifted over the years. Thirty years ago, the one that stood out was Giorgio Beverly Hills, which my American friend gave me as a bridesmaid’s gift. It was still a year before it launched in the UK and
so many people asked me what I was wearing. Others I’ve loved are Paloma Picasso and Coco Mademoiselle and these days I wear Ormonde Jayne Nawab of Oudh and Sisley Noir Orient spicy scents with patchouli and vetyver, which leave a distinct trail. Fragrance is like wine: the older you get, the more you drink red they say. I haven’t quite got to that stage yet - it’s still strictly bubbles for me!
After years of writing about numerous products and industry people, where do you get new ideas from?
esprit has definitely featured a number of products and very inspirational people, but believe me I have not written about all of them within the beauty industry, as there are so many. I do have an ongoing list of individuals who I feel are motivational and inspiring, and at some stage I 30
hope to include them on esprit pages, or on our website. As for deciding on forthcoming features, we aim to remain relevant by reporting from a differnt angle. However, being a professional magazine, I like to think that we are a source of information and keep our readers up to date with industry movements, who’s doing what, where and when. What’s more, the beauty world will continue to evolve with new technology, research and development and product launches, and at esprit, we do our best to keep news as up-to-date as possible. So, please keep sending us the information!
Looking ahead, what’s in the future for esprit?
When you’re 30, you start to refine your style and there are exciting times ahead for esprit. One of the great changes our industry has faced is the virtual blanket influence of the Internet and its impact on print magazines. The instant access to information it represents provides challenges, as well as new opportunities. Our website esprit-magazine.co.uk has been up and running for 18 months now and we’re continually
evolving it. We also aim to take the magazine online during the second half of 2018 and are looking to make our print version handbag-sized as an on-the-go glossy resource. You can also follow our social media channels: @espritmagazine on Twitter, @espritmagazine_uk on Instagram and espritmagazine on Facebook.
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Co nt eur d e Pa r f um s
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a look at what’s new in the marketplace 1 Million gets lucky To celebrate 10 years of the 1 Million and Lady Million collection of fragrances, Paco Rabanne introduces a new intoxicating wave of addiction 1 Million Lucky and Lady Million Lucky. Redefining luck, these bold unexpected scents capture the feeling of empowerment and the euphoric high of liberation.
Infinite momentum International luxury brand Bentley, have introduced a new bold addition to the Momentum line of fragrances: Bentley Momentum Unlimited. A fresher interpretation, Momentum Unlimited, created by Perfumer, Michel Almairac, is a thrilling contrast of crisp fruit and smooth leather. The scent opens with a burst of bracing grapefruit and tart green apples, boosted by the citrus brightness of cardamom. Taking on a new direction, the heart notes reveal Bentley Fragrances signature accord of wood and leather, notes inspired by the luxurious interior of Bentley motorcars. Sensual sandalwood, cedarwood and vetiver enhance the rich yielding texture of the leather note that ends on a masculine base of musk and ambroxan. Bentley Momentum Unlimited EdT, 100ml, £59.00 is now available.
Pure and amazing duo An exhilarating rush that grips the senses, 1 Million Lucky bites with zesty green plum, and captivating masculine woody accords, jolting desire with luscious hazelnut. A rose revolution, Lady Million Lucky collapses the boundaries to make room for pure sensation. Bursting with raspberry, it teases and flirts while a voluptuous base of sandalwood pushes the limits even further. The iconic gold packaging has been upgraded to platinum, the rarest of metals, intensifying the energy that embodies the Million Lucky editions. Now available, 1 Million Lucky EdT is offered as 50ml, £48.50; 100ml, £66.50 and 200ml, £96.00. Lady Million Lucky EdP is offered as 30ml, £46.50; 50ml, £62.50 and 80ml, £80.00.
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Mindful beauty brand, Philosophy, have launched two new members into the Grace family of fragrances: Pure Grace Nude Rose and Amazing Grace Ballet Rose. Embracing effortless simplicity, Pure Grace Nude Rose is expressed by a composition of delicate blush rose balanced by clean dewy greens, neroli and bright orange flower,
cocooned in the warmth and sensuality of cedarwood and sun-kissed musk. Inspired by the strength of the ballerina, Amazing Grace Ballet Rose, capturers the soft graceful beauty in notes of delicate rose enveloped in sparkling lychee and peony, layered with sheer pink musk. Offered in a 60ml size, Philosophy Pure Grace Nude Rose and Amazing Grace Ballet Rose are now available at £33.00 each.
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Passion fruit garden Guerlain introduce Passiflora, the latest addition to the Aqua Allegoria collection of fragrances. Designed by Guerlain Master Perfumer, Thierry Wasser, the new arrival takes its inspiration from the desire of a faraway, exotic garden - a light breeze laced with the energising scent of lemon, grapefruit and mandarin, combine with Passiflora’s key ingredient of sun-ripened passion fruit. The sunshine tones of Ylang ylang and the addition of an aquatic accord add to the impression of being very far from home.
Mediterranean treasure The Italian Mediterranean offers a treasure trove for the senses and a place where nature expresses herself with an abundance of aromas and delicious fruits. Complementing their rich heritage and inspired by its timeless ingredients and the golden moments
crispness of mandarin. At its heart, jasmine and geranium blend with the dynamic and refreshing accords of cardamom and rosemary, rounded off with a base of musk and patchouli. Offered as an Eau de Toilette, Chinotto di Liguria is available in 150ml, 75ml and 30ml, as well as a Shower Gel, Body Lotion, Hand Cream and Lip Balm.
Stressed skin boost Elemis introduce Pro-Collagen Overnight Matrix, an anti-ageing skincare that uses ground-breaking, new Drone Peptide Technology to target areas of the face where stress shows most. Clinically proven, this overnight treatment brings stressed skin a much-needed boost of hydration and anti-ageing actives, working to help restore the natural balance to stressed skin throughout the night. Elemis Pro-Collagen Overnight Matrix (50ml/£145) is now available. Elemis also introduce new Dynamic Resurfacing Facial Pads - a shortcut to radiant looking skin in one sweep. Innovative and effective, they act as a gentle skin perfecting exfoliator, cleansing the skin of dead skin cells and evens out the complexion to help promote skin radiance. Elemis Dynamic Resurfacing Facial Pads £39.00 - (60 pads) are now available.
All the fun of the fair that meld the sun and the sea along this rich sun-soaked coast, Acqua di Parma introduce, Chinotto di Liguria, the latest addition to the Blu Mediterraneo collection of fragrances. Chinotto di Liguria opens with a charge of energy enhanced by the featured bittersweet notes of the chinotto fruit and the sparkling
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A new chapter in the Angel fragrance story, Angel Fruity Fair expresses the sensation of luminous gourmand indulgence, addictive sweet flavours reminiscence of a carnival. Perfumer, Louise Turner, re-imagines Angel with three new signature notes. Delicious mouth-watering fruity accords swirl around an abundance of blackcurrant, lychee and pomerose. A rose thorn note, sparkling like a spicy summer breeze, ends on the seductive warmth of whipped cream, highlighted by vanilla, softening the patchouli accord of the signature Angel scent. Angel Fruity Fair EdT is now available and offered in a 50ml, £48.00.
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