espritcontents COVERS: Versace introduces Dylan Blue Femme, the new fragrance for women. Unique, strong, sensual and elegant, Dylan Blue Femme is an alchemy of irresistible notes such as green apple and blackcurrent sorbet, combined with a contemporary floral bouquet of petalia, jasmine and eglantine rose and a woody base of white woods and musk. The juice is encased in a bottle inspired by an amphora, as intense and as blue as the Mediterranean Sea
contents 4 esprit News
A look at what’s making news in your beauty industry, including our regular contribution from author, perfume blogger and multi Jasmine Award-winner, Persolaise. This month, he talks with Perfumer, Rodrigo Flores-Roux - responsible for creating the John Varvatos collection of fragrances. We also have award-winning beauty Nutritionist, Kathryn Danzey, offering her expert advice on how to embrace wellness without the detox
18 The Perfume Boom
Suzy Nightingale looks back over the last three decades at the evolving and changing trends in the world of fragrance
Owner & Founder/Editor Lorraine Wilson-Morris Business Communications Manager Maria Tatchley Art Editor/Production Terence Wilson Regular Contributors Darren Scott Jo Sanford Kathryn Danzey Persolaise Suzy Nightingale Vicci Bentley esprit Sandron Publishing Ltd 87 Roundwood Way, Banstead, Surrey SM7 1EJ T: 01737 373099 E: esprit@esprit-magazine.co.uk W: www.esprit-magazine.co.uk Subscription Rates £95 UK - £105 Overseas (incl. Rep of Ireland) (non-refundable), inc P&P. Back copies: £12 per issue Print Production Partners Colouration 7 - 15 Falcon Court, St Martin’s Way, London SW17 0JH T: 020 8946 4466 E: info@colouration.london W: www.colouration.london Esprit ISSN 1364-9922
20 The Interview - Marc Rosen
Working with some of the most prestigious cosmetic companies, fashion designers and top celebrities, Marc Rosen, one of the world’s leading packaging designers, talks exclusively to esprit
22 New Year, New You - Male Grooming
After the excesses of the festive season, now is probably a good time to give the body a bit of a pampering overhaul...Darren Scott looks at some of the products on offer to make male grooming that bit more enjoyable!
24 Training Special
With over thirty years experience in the beauty industry, Tracy May-Harriott of Tracy May Beauty, shares her strategy on how to get re-motivated for the year ahead
26 Beauty Related
A selection of new products making their way into the marketplace include: Invictus Aqua and Olympéa Aqua - two new sensual editions from Paco Rabanne; Guerlain pays tribute to its Founder with Royal Extract - a fragrance created exclusively for Harrods; Versace introduce Dylan Blue pour femme, a fragrance for a woman who knows her own power; Sisley launch new make up products as part of their spring/summer look; Clinique collaborate with Finnish Design House, Marimekko, for a collection of lip products, and leading UK depilatory brand Veet, introduce Sensitive Precision Expert esprit do not provide PDF copies for editorial included in the magazine. PDF’s are only supplied to advertisers for colour approval. All rights reserved. Articles published in this magazine may not be reproduced in any form without the written permission of the publisher. Sandron Publishing accepts no responsibility for advertising claims made in this magazine, nor for statements made in editorial contributions from external sources, or in those reproduced from any other source. All material submitted for publication in esprit is at the owners risk. esprit contains photographs that may be provided and paid for by its suppliers.
2
esprit january / february 2018 - celebrating
30
years
4
editor’s welcome Welcome!
6
This year, 2018, is a special year for me as esprit magazine turns 30. The first issue was published in April 1988, and I still remember quite vividly how, all at the same time, I felt excited, nervous and proud when it arrived to our small rented office in Fulham. Numerous months of hard work and late nights was truly worth it. The new baby had made its debut! I can’t quite believe 30 years has passed and I still feel very fortunate that I have worked in one of the best industries a woman can work in. Even with all the numerous changes I’ve encountered over the years - good and bad - I still enjoy what I do. You spend a long time working, so to me, it was important that it had to be enjoyable...I’ve been lucky! Additionally, I would like to take this opportunity of saying a big THANK YOU to all of those who have believed in and supported esprit over the years, as I couldn’t have continued without you.
7
Meanwhile, to celebrate this great 30-year milestone, we will be offering some great celebratory deals on advertising and promotional pages in the hope that companies will consider taking up this great opportunity during our Anniversary year. Esprit still needs your support! Furthermore, I would like to welcome a new contributor - (commencing April 2018) - to esprit, Marc Rosen, one of the world’s leading package designers, who will be sharing his expertise on the importance of significant packaging. Get to know a little about Marc by turning to his exclusive interview with esprit on pages 20 & 21. Also, in this month’s issue you can read about the perfume boom over three decades, plus a men’s grooming special to start the New Year, and a training feature on getting motivated starting 2018. Finally, we continue to bring you our regular columns from Kathryn Danzey and Persolaise, as well as our News, Spa News and Beauty Related pages.
20
Enjoy the read! Lorraine Wilson-Morris Editor
e 18
follow esprit magazine
twitter.com/espritmagazine
facebook.com/espritmagazine
instagram.com/espritmagazine_uk
3
espritnews
David Beckham makes his own House rules
Softer Touch Beard Oil, part of the House 99 by David Beckham range
David Beckham has launched his first global grooming brand, HOUSE 99. The highly anticipated launch was created by David Beckham in partnership with L’Oréal to provide all the styling tools men need House 99 takes a holistic approach to grooming, merging British barbershop culture and style with hair, skin, beard and tattoo creativity. The brand will launch in
David Beckham
the UK, exclusively at Harvey Nichols, on February 1st, and will roll out to other British retailers, and in 19 countries, from March 1st. As one of the world’s most famous style icons, David Beckham continues to
challenge the notion of what it means to be “masculine”. Famously experimenting and reinventing his own image, the London-born footballer, historically made caring about your style and changing your look acceptable amongst men. House 99 is designed to offer exceptional innovative formulas to men who are not afraid to explore their own unique style and express their identity. “For me, grooming is not only about how you look, but how you feel. It’s about being comfortable, trying new things and shaping your next look. I created House 99 to give people the inspiration as well as the right products to experiment and feel completely at home doing so,” says David. Merging David Beckham’s legacy of
new looks with British barbershop culture and applying the technical expertise of L’Oréal labs, the House 99 product line has been carefully engineered over the last two years, to create an all-new grooming brand. The brand is both masculine and stylish, with a product assortment inspired by his legendry evolving look. For David, it’s all about a holistic approach to his daily style regime, focusing on hair, beard, skin and body. From the 21-sku line his current House 99 must-haves include: Going Big Thickening & Purifying Shampoo; Get Groomed Purifying Beard Scrub; Seriously Groomed Beard & Hair Balm; Smooth Back Pomade, and Bold Statement Tattoo Body Moisturizer SPF30. House 99 members can register for exclusive content and membership privileges, and share their own looks with the brand via their Instagram account @house99 to be featured on the site www.house99davidbeckham.com
Coty teams with Amazon Coty has teamed with Amazon to launch ‘Let’s Get Ready’, a new visual skill designed specifically for Echo Show, Amazon’s first Echo device with a screen The strategic choice of Echo Show and the Alexa voice service combines Coty’s focus on voice-driven beauty services with visuals, which are critical in beauty. Let’s Get Ready brings on demand, occasion-based look planning fine-tuned by personal attributes, such as hair, eye, and skin colour. The skill is now available in the UK on the Echo Show as well as all other Echo devices. Jason Forbes, Coty Chief Digital and Media Officer, said: “Digital innovation
4
with a focus on voice and virtual assistants is a key part of our digital strategy as we aim to bring consumers frictionless beauty experiences. We’re thrilled to be leading the market with the introduction of a visual beauty skill in the UK, inspiring consumers to both hear and see new beauty looks, as well as step-by-step tutorials.” Let’s Get Ready is a personalised beauty offering that can deliver to over 2,000 unique combinations of hair, eye, and skin colour, as well as event type. Based on a person’s unique attributes, the skill will serve up curated looks, visual ‘how to’s’ and quick tips, along with recommended
Let’s Get Ready, Amazon’s first Echo device with a screen
hero products from Coty’s Consumer Beauty portfolio: Clairol, Rimmel, Max Factor, Bourjois and Sally Hansen. Users have the ability to add products from each look directly to their Alexa shopping list. Let’s Get Ready can also sync with a person’s Facebook calendar to proactively suggest looks for upcoming events and enhance the ‘personal beauty assistant’ experience.
esprit january / february 2018 - celebrating
30
years
espritnews
Giving back to LGFB Look Good Feel Better are delighted to be the benefitting charity of Katie’s Heart - a company that offers biodegradable glitter, rhinestones and handmade customisable accessories. Ethically sourced, their biodegradable cosmetic grade glitter uses local suppliers wherever possible Launched less than a year ago, Katie’s Heart is run by four strong and caring individuals, each playing a vital role in running the business, which has gone from strength to strength. The company was set up after co-owner and LGFB Beneficiary, Katie, finished treatment for cervical cancer and then breast cancer. Having gone through chemotherapy, a hysterectomy and having a breast removed, Katie still managed to remain positive and happy. Emma, another of the owners and best
friends with Katie, believed it was her good heart that kept her strong, which is where the name comes from. Katie’s Heart have supported LGFB from the start, donating £1 from every single sale and to date they have raised over £870. When asked why they chose to support LGFB Katie commented: “It’s lovely to be able to
Supporting LGFB from the start, Katie’s Heart have donated £1 from every single sale
give back. It is also great to support a charity that doesn’t just focus on the care but rather the mental wellbeing of the women going through cancer treatment. When you lose your hair, your eyebrows and parts of your body you lose all your confidence, Look Good Feel Better help to restore it.”
How you can get involved in 2018 There are many ways to get involved this year to help raise money for LGFB so that they can continue to support even more women living with cancer. Whether its going ‘all out’ and become involved in a Marathon, or an exhilarating Tough Run, or even holding a bake sale during LGFB’s fundraising week: (Feel Better Week - June 4th - June 10th 2018) - with such a varied calendar of events, there’s bound to be something that will appeal to everyone. All monies raised are always gratefully received, no matter how big or small. For a full list of ways you can get involved visit: www.lookgoodfeelbetter.co.uk/get-involved
Facelift for makeup brand Look Fabulous Forever, the e-commerce makeup brand for older women, collaborated with London-based design agency, Six:Thirty and now boasts a major rebrand and new website
The new look builds on LFF’s position as a makeup brand, which celebrates a generation of vibrant, engaged and empowered women, who are redefining what it means to grow older. Furthermore, LFF use real women in all its photos and videos and encourages women to feel good about themselves despite the changes that come with ageing. “After four years of successfully building the business both here and abroad, we decided Tricia Cusden it was time for an (photo credit: Tom Stockill) overhaul of our brand and website,” said Tricia Cusden, LFF Founder. “Our new branding encapsulates the joy I feel about being an older women in the world today - we are living much longer than previous generations and I wanted to acknowledge that difference and celebrate it,” she added. “From the use of bright, upbeat colours to the photography of real women in their own environments, I hope we have continued to build on our fresh and unique approach to beauty and older women.” Tricia’s first book, Living the Life More Fabulous, is being published by Orion Spring on 8th February 2018.
follow esprit magazine facebook.com/espritmagazine twitter.com/espritmagazine instagram.com/espritmagazine_uk
6
esprit january / february 2018 - celebrating
30
years
valentine beauty A selection of beauty products ideal for that special someone this Valentine’s Day! Tiffany & Co.
Capturing the essence of the brand in all its purity, Tiffany & Co. is built around the iris, a flower that has been long associated with Tiffany. The signature ingredient adds strength and sophistication to this provocatively bold, feminine fragrance. Tiffany & Co. 30ml, £52.
Lipstick Queen Dating Game Take a chance with Lipstick Queen’s Dating Game lipstick collection. Choose between Good Catch!, Mr. Right!, Mr. Right Now! and Bad Boy! - four rich, beautifully flirtatious shades. Dating Game lipsticks, £22 each.
Obsessed Intense Calvin Klein
A deeper exploration of a past love story. For him a masculine interpretation of vanilla intensified with black amber. For her - an oriental lavender intensified with liquid amber. Obsessed Intsense for Men 30ml, £33. Obsessed Intsense for Women 30ml, £35.
L’Amour Lalique A radiant, emotional celebration of femininity, L’Amour Lalique offers an olfactory declaration of love. This sensual floral scent includes notes of bergamot, rose, neroli, tuberose, gardenia, jasmine, cedar, sandalwood and musk. L’Amour Lalique 30ml, £46. celebrating
30
years - esprit january / february 2018
Issey Miyake L’Eau D’Issey This sensual aquatic floral scent captures the spray of a waterfall, combined with the fragrance of flowers. Available in a Valentine Gift Set containing a 50ml L’Eau D’Issey EdT and 100ml New Body Lotion. Gift Set £53.
Jo Malone London Valentine’s Day Floral Box The familiar cream and black box opens to reveal a fragrance bottle, nestled among freshly cut blooms. A scent Inspired by the world’s finest roses, with crushed violet leaves and a hint of lemon. Valentine’s Day Floral Box, £140.
Chloé Love Story
The essence of seduction, Chloé Love Story expresses the freedom of a liberated woman. Fresh, feminine and sexy, the fragrance includes notes of neroli, orange blossom, jasmine and cedar. Chloé Love Story EdP 50ml, £65.
Bronnley Iris & Wild Cassis A contemporary twist on a classic flower, The collection has a rich floral fragrance with a refined, lightly powdered scent of iris, twists of blackcurrant and sensual chocolate, coffee and liquorice tones. Bath & Shower Gel, £12.
7
The
Perfume Boom: Three Decadent Decades by Suzy Nightingale The men were uniformly chiseled of jaw, the women immaculate and moving from shoulder pads to au (or should that be eau?) naturel – thirty years ago the scent scene was a very different place indeed. Looking back, it’s fascinating to track the progress of how the perfume world has evolved, and this celebratory issue of esprit is the perfect place for a moment of fragrant reflection. Let’s begin by looking back a little further still, to 1983 – the year Michael Edwards first published his Fragrances of The World guide, now regarded as the ‘industry bible’. When he began listing launches there were a mere 323 fragrances. Now that number is in the several thousand, with the total still growing exponentially, year-on-year. But what shaped this perfume boom, and how have trends changed the way we shop for scent…? Cue the time-travelling music and wavy lines, because we’re whisking back to 1988 (remember to pack your hairspray). Amidst a backdrop of the Soviet Union beginning its major restructuring through Gorbachev’s Perestroika, the formation of the Liberal Democrat party in the UK and The Phantom of the Opera opening on Broadway, things were somewhat less dramatic in the fragrance advertising world, with men standing on yachts looking, um, manly in ‘budgie-smuggler’ briefs and women looking wistful while wearing humungous jewellery. Davidoff Cool Water launched that year, an easy-breezy aquatic that’s more than stood the test of time, with Estée Lauder’s Knowing providing a mysterious floral Chypre sophistication that’s also aged with grace. It’s intriguing to note just how many hugehitters we think of as icons were born in that transition of the decades – Calvin Klein Eternity and Dior Fahrenheit, quickly followed by Guerlain Samsara and Elizabeth Arden Red Door in 1989, Lancôme Trésor, Chanel Égoïste in 1990 and then Kenzo Pour Homme and Dior’s Dune as ’91 dawned. Although we continue to treasure these fragrances, all of which wear their age supremely well, there’s still a definite sense of them defining their era and a longing to escape to a place where everything’s as dreamy as
18
the scents themselves. Indeed, Calvin Klein Escape was another ’91 launch, and it heralded an era of tousle-haired beach-babes of both sexes, taking that Cool Water theme and diving in to the deep end as L’Eau de Bulgari, L’eau d’Issey, CK One and Acqua di Giò swam in similar – now unisex – streams. Men and women were sharing scents, actively encouraged to do so with uber-cool black and white ads hankering for the simple life. Though tempting to think of the entire 90s as salt-drenched and simplistic, juxtaposing this minimal chic Mugler’s Angel and Shiseido’s Fémininité du Bois launched in quick succession in ’92 – swaggeringly fruity and unashamedly feminine they elbowed their way in and remain on the pillar of many a perfumista to this day. And of course Angel, with its daring overdose of cotton candy-like Ethyl Maltol, is the perfume to thank (or otherwise, depending on your perfume peccadillos) for countless fruity/patchouli… well, let’s call them ‘homages’ – the trend for which is really only just about dying down. Buxomly bottled in a female mannequin style flacon that bore more than a passing resemblance to 1937’s Shocking by Schiaparelli, ’93 saw the birth of Jean Paul Gaultier’s Classique – a goddess who still wields great powers and changes her outfit on a seasonal basis (along with Le Male, who followed in her wake in ’95 and was the very first fragrance composed by then fledgling Perfumer, now one of the busiest noses in the business, Francis Kurkdjian). The pendulum of perfume continued to swing wildly from the girlish glee of Hilfiger’s Tommy Girl and Creed’s Spring Flower to Chanel’s Allure and Lolita Lempicka’s eponymous and lavishly licorice-y scent in ’96, gathering steam to the powdery decadence of Dior’s Hypnotic Poison and the wonderful weirdness of Bulgari Black (burning rubber and vanilla, anyone?) which has become a go-to for even the most cynical of niche-only fragrance lovers. As the Naughties loomed, with mass panic about the ‘Millennium Bug’ and a real sense of change in the air, we can truly say the era of niche perfumes launched. Yes, we can argue about who was the ‘first’ House to take that title, and many do, the majority supposing
esprit january / february 2018 - celebrating
30
years
the title belongs to L’Artisan Parfumeur, which was already established in 1976. But few can doubt that self-styled Editeur de Parfums, Frédéric Malle, was the first to properly put niche, or independent/artisanal perfumes, on the map. ‘I work as an editor works with writers,’ he’s quoted as saying, ‘I give these “fragrance authors” complete freedom to explore and express their ideas.’ Malle was also the first House to put the Perfumer’s name proudly on the bottle – the artist claiming their work. Now we can expect not only to know the Perfumer's name, but a full-disclosure report on their inspiration, and possibly some insight into what they had for breakfast that morning and how it made them feel. A slight exaggeration, but there's no doubt the dawning of the Internet-savvy generation gave rise to serious perfume consumers being ready to research their purchases, exploring the entire fragrance world at the touch of button. And how have the designer fragrances fared in this glare of social media’s publicity? Well, Marc Jacob’s Daisy first bloomed in 2007 and shows no signs of stopping, delighting the young and the young-at-heart still with grassy violet leaf and strawberry notes evoking a freshfaced charm (and an ever-changing face at that, with countless collectible flacons that have become icons in their own right). Meanwhile, Chloe’s namesake scent first launched way back in ’75, keeping the name but changing the bottle and utterly transforming in 2008 to a luminously sparkling floral now celebrating two decades of happy-making gamine chic. Similarly, a huge hit of the 90s, Hugo Boss’ BOSS Bottled, has celebrated the Anniversary by variously metamorphosing from Night and Intense versions to Sport and Tonic and through to Oud and collector’s editions – a rollercoaster ride through all the trends of the decades, you might say. But where are we now and what does the future hold? Thanks to the Google-powered perfume generations eagerly lapping up every bit of information they can gain about a fragrance, along with a note-by-note examination of the composition, these days we may be greeted with top-level information about where the ingredients are from, how they are sustainably harvested and why they were chosen. The best Houses balance telling us a story with those facts, I think, a harmonisation of romance and science. Because we still want to fall in love with a fragrance, don't we? We still want an insight into how this might make us feel at the touch of the spray. Along with our hunger for forthrightness and 'clean labeling', a wish to smell unique and unlike anyone else; to buy a bottle of perfume is to hope for a hit of happiness, confidence, sex appeal and exuberance, or sophistication, quietude and calm. Whatever pleasure centres, we hope it will light up, we still need to dare to dream. celebrating
30
years - esprit january / february 2018
19