TK27 Enchanted Ingredients

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T A S T I N G 27

K I T C H E N

ENCHANTED INGREDIENTS

CENTRAL

Ingredients for Enchantment 奇珍异材

COTAI

Starry Night 璀璨之夜

CHINA

Colossal Cuisine 澎湃美味

STARTER

Half-fried Sicilian red prawns with tamarind sauce is a signature dish at all of Enrico Bartolini’s restaurants, including Spiga. It showcases the three distinct textures of each prawn: crispy deep-fried underbelly, fresh and creamy raw center, and tenderly succulent half-cooked flesh in between.

DAVID HARTUNG

这道创新半炸做法的西西里红虾伴罗望子汁，是意大利名厨Enrico Bartolini旗下餐厅、 包括Spiga的招牌菜色之一。经特别炮制的鲜虾，有着香脆的油炸虾下腹和鲜甜甘香 的虾背刺身，还有恰到好处的半熟虾肉，入口便能感受到丰富的色香味。

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Hong Kong & Macau enquiries: drinks@bomcarma.com

T A S T I N G 27

K I T C H E N

ENCHANTED INGREDIENTS

Tasting Kitchen Limited www.tasting-kitchen.com 2802, Admiralty Centre Tower One 18 Harcourt Road, Hong Kong Tel: +852 3748 3756 Fax: +852 3748 3738

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’s finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food.

Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the region has to offer.

Mark Hammons FOUNDER & PUBLISHER mark@tasting-kitchen.com

David Hartung

Alicia Beebe

Mamie Hsien Chen

DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY

ART DIRECTOR

Chris Dwyer

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Jean Alberti

Catherine Shaw

MANAGING EDITOR

CHEF AT LARGE

Inara Sim

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J. Carl Kerkman, MFA

Irene Sam

EDITOR

IMAGE EDITOR

Kate Nicholson

TRANSLATION SERVICES

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Babel Communications

CHINESE EDITOR

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Victoria Lei Zita Wan

Terrie Lam

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ADMINISTRATION MANAGER

ASSISTANT EDITORS

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VEA’s executive chef Vicky Cheng presents a playful dish of tea-smoked duck breast quick-seared in the style of magret de canard. Duck leg confit is stuffed in a longevity bun and salted duck egg encrusts the gratinéed bitter melon. Read more about Cheng’s “Chinese x French” cuisine, starting on page 32. 快煎茶熏鸭胸配搭鸭腿为馅的小寿包，再以包裹咸鸭 蛋的奶油烤苦瓜为点缀，无懈可击。VEA餐厅的行政总 厨Vicky Cheng端出的这道玩味十足的菜色，完美展现 中法混合的厨艺功架。想了解更多请翻阅第32页。

Photography by David Hartung

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©Tasting Kitchen Limited 2017 All rights reserved

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen.

In this issue, Enchanted Ingredients, we explore the long history of Chinese cuisine and celebrate its ongoing evolution.

We start by learning how two awardwinning Taiwanese designers are introducing new concepts to the culinary world, one through monochromatic tableware that strikes the perfect visual balance between plate and food, and the other with an innovative line of tea ceramics designed for use in a series of events called Tea Party, experiences that enlist all five senses and incorporate eight forms of traditional Chinese art. A third artist, Li Jin, creates modern ink paintings that capture China’s present-day infatuation with food culture in a series of feast-themed paintings portraying ordinary diners engaged in everyday acts of eating, drinking, laughing, and flirting.

The home of Cantonese cuisine may be Guangdong province, but the signature Cantonese restaurant at The Peninsula Paris features a setting inspired by traditional Beijing opera, a theatrical ambience of intrigue and private hidden corners.

In Central, a recently opened noodle establishment ventures to reimagine Hong Kong cuisine, celebrating the past and projecting the future with edgy techniques of preparation and presentation. Renowned culinary couple Kei Lum Chan and Diora Fong Chan also pay tribute to history in their ambitious new cookbook, a 720-page volume with more than six hundred fifty recipes from thirty-four regions across Greater China.

And in our cover story, we share an evening with a visionary young Hong Kong chef who prepares local Chinese ingredients using classic French techniques. Especially for those steeped in the cultural history of these traditional elements, each dish he creates provokes a new insight or moment of revelation. Enjoy.

MARK HAMMONS

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CONTENTS

2 STARTER 10 Dark Matter • 12 Masters of Ceremony • 14 Feast Your Eyes • 18 Dialogue in Design 22 Evolution of the Noodle • 26 Colossal Cuisine • 32 Ingredients for Enchantment 46 Starry Night • 64 Exceptional Cuisine Takes Center Stage at Wynn Palace Cotai

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68 Wonderland of Sweets at Wynn Palace Cotai • 72 Portuguese Comfort 78 Be Contemporary Classic • 80 Food Fight • 86 The Future of Food • 94 Sage Advice 96 Perfect On Its Own • 100 Flying Above the Clouds • 104 The Shape of Things to Come 111 R E S T A U R A N T L I S T I N G S • 112 D E S S E R T

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纯黑品赏记

Dark Matter

A Taiwanese design studio creates award-winning dinnerware with contemporary styling and the timeless chic of basic black.

Large plate (大盘): TWD1,280.00 Small plate (小盘): TWD580.00 www.blachoice.com

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IMAGES COURTESY OF THE TAIWAN DESIGN CENTER

INSPIRED LIVING

HOW DOES A CERAMICS DESIGNER strike the perfect visual balance between the plate and the food displayed on it, so that both receive their due but neither steals the other’s thunder? The two-person design team at Taipei tableware and accessories studio BLACHOICE seem to have resolved this conundrum admirably with their dinnerware line called Geometry Plate.

Finished in matte black, the unique series is embellished with a variety of subdued geometric patterns embossed on the surface of the larger plates and fixed to the smaller ones using ceramic decals. Unlike pieces whose color is applied as a surface glaze, Geometry Plate is made from a rare clay that is itself black, eliminating the need for glazing and ensuring, to the enduring thanks of dinner hosts and restaurateurs, that any future chips remain all but invisible.

The overall design concept was influenced by earlier BLACHOICE products, including a notebook and a textured sticker for use by Taipei commuters in decorating their subway cards, but the use of such an unusual material and the extremely shallow profile of the design elements complicated the manufacturing process. Numerous experiments were required, as were countless conversations between the design team and the craftsmen of Taiwan’s famous ceramics district, Yingge. Then came the tedious process of refining a series of one-of-a-kind molds for the large-size plates before Geometry Plate was finally ready for full-scale production and market launch.

The efforts of the designers were rewarded not only with a line of eminently attractive and practical tableware but also with industry recognition. In 2016, Geometry Plate earned a Design Mark in Taiwan’s international Golden Pin Design Award competition.

Dedication to a strictly monochromatic palette is central to BLACHOICE’s brand identity. All of its own products come in either black or white, and the owners continually scout Taiwan’s burgeoning design scene to find the best in monochromatic stationery, tableware, and home accessories for their online shop at blachoice.com.

如何让餐盘和食物相辅相成，达到最佳的视觉效 果，又不致抢走彼此的风采呢？这是陶瓷设计师 日夜钻研的课题。位于台北「黑色选择有限公司 BLACHOICE」的两人团队似乎对餐具和配件的设计

颇有一套，并用他们创作的「几何黑盘」解决了这 个难题。 几何系列以雾面黑为主要色调，柔和的几何 图形遍布大盘表面，小盘则用不同形状的陶瓷贴纸 妆点。不同于一般以上釉方式调色的瓷盘，这系列 的餐盘是用一种原色为黑色的稀有陶土制成，无须 上釉，因此不用担心掉漆问题，使用者可保有其历 久弥新的风采。 「几何黑盘」的设计理念来自品牌推出的其他 产品 , 如全黑笔记本和一款专为台北通勤族量身设 计、优雅的地下铁卡贴纸。然而不论是产品使用的 稀有材料和其目标实现的极简风格，也使制作过程 难度升高。设计团队做了无数次不同的尝试，也与 台湾陶瓷重镇莺歌的师傅不断讨论。「几何黑盘」 模具经过一连串的修饰，才确定准备大量生产，推 出市场。 设计团队努力的成果，不只是这套雅致而实 用的餐盘组，他们更得到同业的赞赏与肯定。在

2016 年，「几何黑盘」更获得了台湾金点设计奖。 「非黑即白」是 BLACHOICE 自始至终的坚持。 其商品都是黑色或白色系，而公司经营团队仍不断 地搜索灵感，希望能在台湾蓬勃发展的设计界中创 造出各种黑与白的纯色文具、餐盘和配件。 ENCHANTED INGREDIENTS | TK |

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INSPIRED LIVING

茶道新视野

Masters of Ceremony A Taiwanese ceramics studio and a premium brand of tea bring a revolutionary approach to the renewal of an ancient tradition.

IMAGES COURTESY OF THE TAIWAN DESIGN CENTER

THE TEA PART Y SERIES OF EVENTS, founded in 2012 by Taiwanese company Ateliea Tea, has become a pioneer in enlisting all five senses in the appreciation and reinvigoration of the ancient Chinese tea ceremony. The first in the series, Tea Party: Slow & Flow , combined venerable tea rituals with eight different forms of traditional art, including dance, ceramics, and music. The show toured Mainland China, Europe, and America in a total of fifty performances by 2014.

The 2015 iteration, Tea Party II: In the Mix , embodied more of a popular-culture approach. Lin Jung-Kuo, the event’s executive producer and also the founder of Lin’s Ceramics Studio, the company behind both the event series and the Ateliea Tea brand, took the idea of a party literally by assembling a team of ceramics craftsmen, designers, mixologists, motion-graphics specialists, DJs, choreographers, and culinary experts to create a nightclub-like tea-drinking experience.

In the Mix was launched at Creative Expo Taiwan 2015 in an enclosed, specially designed temporary space. As guests entered the dimly lit round room, they were greeted by a mixologist dressed in a contemporary reinterpretation of an ancient Chinese garment and were invited to sit on tall stools at a circular bar.

Before and during the show, a variety of hot and cold tea mixes were paired with local Taiwanese pastries and other delicacies while imagery and videos were projected on the surrounding walls and accompanied by music. The movements of the mixologists were carefully choreographed throughout the forty-minute experience.

In rehearsing the event, the team discovered that mixing tea in the same way as cocktails required specialized equipment. Designers CAM & Vii were commissioned to create an entirely new set of vessels and utensils based on the event’s theme, Taiwan’s seasonal tea-growing phases: planting in spring, cultivating in summer, harvesting in autumn, and storing in winter. This twist on tradition won a 2016 Design Mark from Taiwan’s celebrated Golden Pin Design Award.

台湾品牌「不二堂 (Ateliea Tea)」自 2012 年起举办以茶 为主的「Tea Party」五感体验茶派对系列活动，为品茶 及中国古典茶道带来新的风貌。 「Tea Party」系列首部曲 「慢 • 漫 Slow & Flow」将古老的品茶程序与舞蹈、陶艺 及音乐等八种传统艺术形式相结合，大获好评，至 2014 年为止巡回中国大陆、欧洲及美国共计 50 场。

2015 年二部曲 Tea Party II「混得好 (In the Mix)」则 注入更多大众流行文化元素，幕后推手正是「不二堂」 和「陶作坊 (Lin’s Ceramics Studio)」, 创办人兼总经理林 荣国，他把表演当作真正的派对来办 , 号召了陶瓷工匠、 设计师、调茶师、动态图像设计师、DJ、编舞家及烹调 专家一起打造如夜店般的茶酒派对。

2015 年台湾文博会「混得好 (In The Mix)」处特设 空间区域。进入光线昏暗的圆形会场，客人由身穿经传 统改良的现代服装的调茶师徐徐接待，并引导至圆弧形 吧台边的高脚椅就坐。开场前及表演期间，客人会享用 各种冷热混调茶饮，并搭配台湾道地点心及其他美食， 四周墙上投射著各式图像及影片 , 配合不间断的音乐。在 40 分钟的表演时间内，调茶师的一举一动都经过精心设 计及编导而成。 表演策划及执行不久，团队便发现混茶就和调酒一 样，都需要特殊设备辅助，因而委托「黑生起司」的设 计师杨志伟和陈如薇专为「Tea Party」打造一系列全新 茶具组及混茶器具，更以台湾茶叶在四季的不同阶段为 设计主轴－春耕、夏耘、秋收、冬藏。 这创新的系列荣 。 获 2016 年金点设计奖产品设计类「金点设计标章」 enchanted ingredients

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视觉飨宴

Feast Your Eyes

A contemporary ink artist makes food his subject matter in exploring the conflicts and confluences of modern Chinese society.

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A FEAST, 2001, LI JIN, INK ON XUAN PAPER, 33 X 708 5/8 IN. PARTIAL GIFT OF MEG MAGGIO AND THE COURTYARD GALLERY, BEIJING AND PARTIAL PURCHASE WITH FUNDS FROM REBECCA AND ALEXANDER STEWART, JOHN AND SHARI BEHNKE, AND THE MODERN ART ACQUISITION FUND, 2003.119 © LI JIN

FOOD & ART

从鸡脚到巴伐利亚舞者、从清朝食谱到用完即丢的汽 FROM CHICKEN FEET TO BAVARIAN DANCERS, from Qing dynasty recipes to dis水罐，不按牌理出牌的水墨画家李津，总有办法将中 posable soda cans, unorthodox ink artist Li Jin manages somehow to condense all 国方兴未艾的食物狂热及文化，浓缩在自己一幅幅以 the chaos and wonder that is China’s ongoing cult and culture of food into his prolific 「飨宴」为题的作品中，发挥得淋漓尽致。 output of feast-themed paintings. The people featured in Li’s works, in 画中人与典型中国文人水墨画中优雅超然 marked departure from the elegant transcendence that typifies traditional BY 的意象简直南辕北辙，可用不修边幅来形 Chinese literati ink paintings, are far from refined. They are seen gathered KATE NICHOLSON 容。作品以中国再平凡不过的餐厅或家庭 around tables, scarfing down dishes found in the most ordinary of res为场景，只见一群人聚在餐桌边狼吞虎咽， taurants or homes in China and drinking, laughing, and flirting with one ART BY 边喝东西，边笑着和旁人打情骂俏。 another.

LI JIN 李津 1958 年出生于天津，1983 年自 Li was born in Tianjin in 1958 and graduated from the Tianjin Academy 天津美术学院毕业。曾远赴西藏旅行，之后创作一系 of Fine Arts in 1983. After a trip to Tibet that inspired a series of works focused on

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Tibetan folklore, he turned his attention to the modern everyday life of the Chinese family and the food that lies at its center. Something he calls “cuisine of the heart,”

列和西藏民俗文化有关的画作。之后他转而关注当代 中国人的日常生活，食物自然成为其中不可或缺的一 enchanted ingredients

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FOOD & ART

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The monumental fifty-nine-foot-long hand scroll takes readers on a culinary tour of China through painted imagery of both home-cooked and high-end Chinese dishes.

59 呎的超巨型手卷大作上刻划了满满的家常菜和各式豪华大菜。

based on his fascination with the harmonies and clashes of modern culture as depicted through the medium of food, has dominated his work ever since.

One of the works depicted here is Li’s A Feast , which was most famously exhibited at the Seattle Asian Art Museum in 2003 and is now part of the institution’s permanent collection. The monumental fifty-nine-foot-long hand scroll takes readers on a culinary tour of China through painted imagery of both home-cooked and high-end Chinese dishes, surrounded by regional recipes and commentary expressed in calligraphy. The work begins with an essay, composed with a friend by email, about the importance of food within Chinese politics and culture and continues with a display of increasingly bizarre and humorous dishes, from a hot pot and a steamed crab to a dismembered chicken and a Western-style sub sandwich. Abundance is a clear motif: every space is filled with ecstatic people, an unending variety of foodstuffs, foodthemed poetry, and an array of common Chinese cooking and eating utensils.

Feast , the other set of five works featured here, was sold at Sotheby’s seminal single-owner Origo Collection sale in Hong Kong in 2016. Here, Li explores the nostalgia he feels for his early years growing up in China and for his extensive travels through Europe. In an ode to his personal fascination with hedonism, the artist has painted himself into the work, surrounding his figure with an unending banquet of sensory pleasures, from delectable morsels to delightful dancers portrayed in clothing reminiscent of traditional costumes from home and abroad.

Today, Li is considered a pioneer of contemporary Chinese ink painting, with his works selling for millions of dollars. It seems that what resonates most with audiences is his ability to inject a measure of joviality into the stuffiness of tradition by means of a mundane subject like food. Is his work a commentary on a society paralyzed between tradition and modernity? Or is it a simple expression of the significance of food in societies the world over? Li Jin leaves it to viewers to judge for themselves.

环。自此李津一头栽进当代文化各种冲 突及和谐元素构成的幻想中，以食物为 媒 介 描 绘 他 自 己 所 谓 的「 心 灵 粮 食 」 ， 创作源源不绝。 在此看到的是李津 2003 年于西雅 图亚洲艺术博物馆展出的作品「盛宴」 ， 也已成为博物馆的永久收藏。59 呎的 超巨型手卷大作上刻划了满满的家常菜 和各式豪华大菜，一旁还有书法写成的 各地食谱及评论，引领观者踏上一场中 国美食之旅。作品缘起于李津和朋友透 过电子邮件完成的一篇论文，主要讲述 食物在中国政治及文化中的重要性，过 程逐渐加入各式古怪、看了让人哑然失 笑的菜肴，从火锅、蒸蟹、手撕鸡到西 式潜艇堡，无奇不有。创作主轴「丰盛」 一眼就看得出来 ：周围是一脸兴奋的人 们、各种食物及以食物为题的诗文杂陈， 还有五花八门的中式厨具及餐具。 另 一 件 五 张 一 组 的 作 品「 盛 宴 」 则在 2016 年香港苏富比全球首场当代 水墨艺术单一藏家专拍「墨源新思」场 中 卖 出 好 成 绩。 李 津 在 作 品 中 缅 怀 早 年在中国成长的记忆及遍游欧洲的经 历，实为艺术家对所爱的享乐主义一大 讴歌。他还把自己放进画里，身旁尽是 永不止息的宴席佳肴，各种美食及看似 身着中国及外国传统服装翩翩起舞的舞 者，带来高度感官享受。 李津为当代中国水墨画的先驱，作 品卖价动辄高达数百万元。他透过像食 物般平凡的主题，为古板的传统注入许 多欢乐，或许是许多观者与他的画产生 共鸣的原因。是反思困在传统及现代两 个天平间进退维谷的社会？抑或单纯呈 现食物在普世社会的重要性？答案就留 待各位看倌自行感悟了。 enchanted ingredients

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设计相对论

Dialogue in Design

Catherine Shaw learns how a grand Parisian interior was cunningly transformed into a theatrical setting for Cantonese fine dining.

COURTESY OF THE PENINSULA PARIS (3)

DESIGN

EVEN COSMOPOLITAN PARIS hadn’t seen anything quite like LiLi, the signature Chinese restaurant of The Peninsula Paris that opened in 2015. In the Western world’s epicenter of culinary connoisseurship, great food is considered a basic necessity. But exceptional décor is equally crucial to civilized life, and LiLi brought something delightfully unexpected to the hotel’s century-old classically French interior: an exotic exuberance inspired by traditional Beijing opera.

The ingenious design concept is carried out across a series of distinctive dining spaces with seating for eighty-six, including booths finished in seductive velvet, leather, and lacquer; elegant tables with an enviable view of Avenue Kléber; two exclusive private dining rooms; and a contemporary Chef ’s Table kitchenside space sheathed in shimmering mosaics.

A respectful sensitivity toward the hotel’s architectural heritage was what drove his intriguing theme, according to Hong Kong interior designer Henry Leung: “Every Peninsula restaurant has

巴黎半岛酒店的「莉莉 (LiLi)」中菜厅独 树一帜，即便在巴黎都相当少见。巴黎 作为首屈一指的美食之都，食物品质好、 烹调完美均不容置疑 ；华美的内部装潢 也同等重要。「莉莉」进驻酒店原有百年 历史的餐厅，以传统京剧为灵感，翻修 法式古典风内装，注入浓浓异国风情。 设计概念贯穿多个风格、共可容纳 86 人的用餐空间 ：包括用色调引人入胜 的丝绒、皮革及亮漆妆点的用餐厢房 ； 可将克勒贝尔大道美景尽收眼底的雅致 餐桌 ；两处隐密包厢以及时兴的厨师之 桌，空间以马赛克砖打造，可近距离品 鉴大厨烹调。 香港知名室内设计师梁国辉表示， 设计理念与原酒店建筑相关，餐厅内无 处不见对历史遗产的尊重。他曾多次与 半岛酒店合作，为东京、香港尖沙咀地 标性建筑等多处酒店设计案操刀 ： 「在巴 黎的半岛酒店餐厅，我们以法国及中国 的悠久历史为切入点，让两地博大精深 的艺术及技艺体现于餐厅装潢中。」 原址建于 1908 年，精细的天花板檐 口及装饰线板等需要保留，设计师想到 打造一个极富戏剧张力的中央「舞台」： 金叶边穹顶、桃花心木柱，加上白玉大

Original cornices and architectural details called for a “light touch,” according to interior designer Henry Leung 室内设计师梁国辉表示，原建筑檐口 及设计细节要来点「细部微调」

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DESIGN

Booth seating near the entrance features paper and glass screens by Taiwanese artist Jam Wu

a unique message relating to its location and story. In Paris we focused on the long cultural history shared by the French and Chinese, and LiLi’s interiors express in a very refined way their mutual expertise in arts and crafts.”

The solution to protecting key historical elements, including elaborate cornices and moldings that date from the building’s construction in 1908, lay in integrating a dramatic central “stage.” A gold-leafed dome and mahogany-clad columns with white marble plinths effortlessly weave a contemporary take on Imperial style into the building’s original décor. “These cornices have angels that now look down on a Chinese opera at the center,” says Leung.

“It’s as if they’re watching a performance, and it creates a wonderful dialogue between the two cultures.”

The designer references China’s traditional crafts in his palette of bronze, midnight blue, and ruby red and in details like intricate embroidery and oversize blue and green plush silk tassels inspired by

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opera costumes. Lighting, furnishings, and art throughout were designed in a rich cultural blend both intimate and opulent. His high-back chairs, for example, deliver a historically resonant yet entirely fresh look by incorporating elements of a traditional European wingback with a hint of the distinctive form of a Chinese birdcage.

The restaurant’s entry sign from Design Percept is an immense optical fiber portrait with an innovative flowing effect.

And Taiwanese artist Jam Wu created a modern chinoiserie triptych screen that lends both privacy and an air of intrigue.

“It’s made of pages from seven FrenchChinese dictionaries,” says Leung. “They were hand-cut into a fine lace pattern and installed between architectural glass to give the impression of floating. ”Ultimately, it’s the relationship between the spirit of this building and the chef ’s culinary expertise that transformed the design into a unique cultural collaboration,” he says. “We simply set the stage for dining.”

理石台，融入当代宫廷风格。梁国辉说明： 「檐口角度往下，正对着京剧舞台，俨然 两种文化的优雅对话。」 设计师的金铜、湛夜蓝及红宝石等 配色能联想到中国传统工艺品，而做工 繁复的刺绣及大尺寸蓝绿绒布流苏更是 发想自京剧戏服。餐厅内 1.5 米的巨型 流苏画作则由巴黎百年家族工坊「Declercq Passementiers」制作，是该工坊承 包至今最大的作品。 光线、家饰及艺术品，每个角落都 由梁国辉精心营造。他的高背椅是历史 融合当代全新风格的最佳例证之一，传 统欧式高背稍经改良，犹如中式鸟笼的 形状，可见其巧思。 餐厅入口的庞然大物为光纤画作， 出自法国设计公司「Design Percept」之 手。台湾艺术家吴耿祯则为餐厅创作中 式三连帘幕，隐讳之余又引人探索。梁 国辉说此作品取材自七本法中字典 ： 「剪 纸而成的蕾丝图案，穿插在建筑玻璃间 飘动，赏心悦目。」他强调 ： 「最终还是 要回归建筑精神和厨师料理激荡的火花， 交织成独一无二的文化体验。我们只是 打造用餐的舞台而已。」

COURTESY OF THE PENINSULA PARIS (2)

入口附近的包厢座位看得到台湾艺术家吴耿祯创作的剪纸及玻璃帘幕

The traditional dome ceiling found in Chinese opera houses creates a focal point for showcasing Chinese craftsmanship 京剧院常见的传统穹顶吸引众人聚焦中式工艺之美

面食演进史

Evolution of the Noodle Dragon Noodles Academy puts its distinctive contemporary spin on traditional Hong Kong food.

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TASTING NOTES ← 12 Hours Sous vide U.S. Bone-in Short Ribs 牛高码大骨 ↓ Berry Winter Melon

COURTESY OF DRAGON NOODLES ACADEMY (2)

蓝苺冬瓜

DNA not only takes a refreshingly innovative approach to classic Chinese cuisine, it actually aims

to drive its modern evolution. To that end, Dragon Noodles Academy is continually reimagining authentic Chinese dishes with its edgy techniques of preparation and presentation, striving to simultaneously revive the past and invent the future. At DNA, everything from dim sum to noodles to the most time-honored of Chinese dishes gets the modern makeover treatment. enchanted ingredients

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口水鸡卷(左） , 沙姜鸡卷（右）

“We extract the DNA of traditional Hong Kong food culture and history,” explains head chef Winson Yip, “and present it in a way never seen before – like a classic kung fu film shown for the first time in 3D.” Two DNA signatures are its fantastic hand-pulled noodles in four styles and its showcasing of premium lobster. As the main attraction in the open kitchen, noodles are made from scratch in front of guests, who look on wide-eyed at maneuvers that might be termed culinary kung fu.

“People queue for ramen everywhere,” says Yip, “and we‘ve elevated Chinese noodles to the same star status at our Lobster Noodle Station. We’ve upgraded them by hand-pulling, adding the instant wow factor of lobster, and serving them in fivehour lobster bisque with brandy that we make fresh every day.” The luxury crustacean is offered three ways: claw, tail-meat wontons, and grilled tail, all served in the slow-cooked master broth.

Lobster is also the hero in dim sum.

The sublime Crispy Lobster Puff is a crunchy roll of lobster pastry glazed with carrot juice to resemble a plump tail and filled with lobster meat, coriander, and winter chestnut.

“Our focus,” says Yip, “is on authentic

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taste, but we use modern cooking methods and presentation to enhance each dish.”

DNA’s US Bone-In Short Ribs, for example, are cooked sous vide for hours, with the entire preparation taking over three days. The result: a crispy exterior giving way to tender juiciness inside. Sous vide is also employed in the succulent Ginger Chicken Roll with housemade ginger sauce.

One of DNA’s most popular dishes is their Peking Duck, aged eight weeks and roasted with applewood chips. Presented whole with a savory sauce, its crispy golden skin and tender meat is served with cucumber, Chinese leek, minced garlic, sesame paste, and the traditional rolled pancakes.

Among desserts, one novel interpretation is Berry Winter Melon, in which blueberry sauce whimsically covers winter melon balls to give the appearance of grapes. DNA’s design continues the creative ethos of the cuisine by presenting such cultural elements of old Hong Kong as lion dances and herbal medicine shops in equally fresh ways. A looming dragon – hand-carved, gold-leafed, and five meters long – presides over an interior that evokes a ’70s kung fu academy with a timeless Bruce Lee cool.

COURTESY OF DRAGON NOODLES ACADEMY (2)

Sous Vide Spicy Chix Rolls (left), Sous Vide Ginger Chix Rolls (right)

位于香港的「龙面馆」不仅采用新颖方法 呈现经典的中华料理，更致力推动美食现 代化。龙面馆不断以自家前卫的烹饪技术 以及摆盘方式，钻研正宗的中式餐点。 叶骏文主厨解释了餐厅的作业模式 ： 「我们萃取出传统港式美食文化及其历史的 精华，并以一种前所未见的方式呈现 – 好 比第一次用 3D 技术呈现经典功夫片。」龙 面馆最不容错过的招牌品项就是四种不同 风格的手工拉面以及顶级龙虾。 叶主厨说道 ： 「面一直是华人的主食之 一，而在龙面馆，我们把面食提升到了另 一个境界。」面条的制作过程也是开放式厨 房的重点，在客人面前将面条制作出来， 誉为烹饪功夫表演也不为过。 龙虾自古以来都是珍贵食材，餐厅选 龙虾为汤面的材料也是为了惊艳顾客 ： 「到 处都有人为了日式拉面排队，」叶主厨说道， 「而我们想把中式拉面提升到相同的地位， 这就是在拉面中加入龙虾的原因。我们全 手工制作拉面，搭配耗时五小时熬制、加 有白兰地的龙虾汤底，全部都是当天现做 的。」豪华龙虾面提供三种不同的搭配方式： 龙虾钳、龙虾肉馄饨以及香烤龙虾尾，所 有品项都会搭配精心熬煮的高汤。 龙虾也在点心中扮演重要的角色。龙 面馆对传统萝卜丝酥饼的诠释，造就了高 雅的脆皮龙虾萝卜酥 ：酥脆的龙虾糕点用 胡萝卜汁点缀，使其外观酷似丰满的龙虾 尾，馅料则是满满的龙虾肉、香菜和栗子。 叶主厨说： 「我们的目标是真正的美味， 但依然会使用现代的烹饪方法和摆盘技术 来提升菜肴的品质。」其中一个例子便是龙 面馆的美国短肋牛排，肉排经真空低温烹 煮已需数小时，至少需要三天以达至酥脆 的外皮和鲜嫩多汁的肉质。同样的真空慢 煮手法也用于搭配独家酱料的沙姜鸡卷。 即烧片皮鸭也是龙面馆的招牌菜之一 ： 以苹果木烤制八周龄的全鸭，配搭美味烤 鸭酱汁。为烤得金香的脆皮和嫩滑的鸭肉 增添风味和口感的配料，则有青瓜条，京 葱条，蒜头茸，芝麻酱和传统的薄饼。 至于甜点，代表作非蓝莓冬瓜莫属。 主厨将冬瓜球浸在蓝莓酱汁中，为这道甜 品做出类似葡萄的外观。龙面馆的装潢设 计延续了对香港美食的创意精神，以同样 新颖的方式呈现老香港的文化元素，如舞 龙舞狮和中药行。至于那座威武的龙雕 – 以纯手工雕刻镀金的、身长五米的金龙， 仿佛唤起 70 年代功夫学院的记忆以及李小 龙带来的永不褪去的功夫热潮。

Crispy Lobster Puff 龙虾萝卜酥

BOOK REVIEW

澎湃美味

Colossal Cuisine

FOR RENOWNED CULINARY COUPLE Kei Lum Chan and Diora Fong Chan, writing about food seems to come as naturally as eating it. After authoring more than a dozen best-selling cookbooks in Hong Kong, the team has produced a 720-page magnum opus, China: The Cookbook. Their assignment from esteemed international publishing house Phaidon Press was to compile a comprehensive collection of the best recipes from the Middle Kingdom.

Documenting one of the oldest and most universally loved of the world’s cuisines was an ambitious task, one for which the authors collected more than six hundred fifty recipes from thirty-four regions across Greater China, including outlying Tibet, Xinjiang, and Taiwan. In presentation, China: The Cookbook continues the clean formatting of Phaidon’s other national culinary epics like Mexico and The Silver Spoon (Italy), with clearly detailed recipes organized in a central section and spare and elegant photography.

The beautiful hardback, with a cover of duck-egg blue and edges auspiciously finished in gold, begins with a wide-ranging introduction that outlines the importance of food throughout China’s long history. After explaining the role of food as a symbol of social standing, it goes on to describe the ways in which it has been used as a political tool to govern the masses and shows how Chinese cuisine, even in the hardest of

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对 活 跃 于 料 理 界 的 陈 纪 临、 方 晓 岚 夫 妇 来 说， 写 书 介 绍 食 物 就 跟 吃 东 西 一 样 自 然。 两 人 已 经 在 香 港 出 版 了 十 余 本 畅 销 食谱，这次在享誉国际的出版社 Phaidon Press 的邀请下，完成一项重大任务，他们 广泛搜罗全中国各地的食谱，融汇成一本 厚达 720 页的皇皇巨著《China: The Cookbook》。 搜集全世界最古老也最受喜爱的烹饪 食谱确实很难，但陈氏伉俪办到了，他们 在中国三十四个省份，包括边陲的西藏、 新疆与台湾搜集到 650 种食谱。这本《China: The Cookbook》延续了出版社其他料理大 作，如《Mexico》和《The Silver Spoon（意 大利）》的风格，版面干净，详细的料理步 骤置于版面中央，照片不多，但整体感觉 优雅大方。 这本精装书封面以鸭蛋色为主色，每一 页缀以金边，有祥和美丽的感觉。一开始先 详尽广泛地介绍了美食在中国悠久历史中的 重要性，解释菜肴象征的社会地位，说明当 权者如何巧妙利用菜肴当做统治老百姓的政 治工具。但即使在艰苦的年代，中国菜仍然 不断改进。比方说，毛泽东发动了文化大革 命，食物配给不足，却从而开启了料理革命， 民众不得不想尽办法寻找新食材，在任何情 况下都能够烹煮食物。 两位作者详细阐释了中国民以食为天 的概念，充分展现两人对中华料理的深刻 洞察和热爱。例如即使到了现代，中国人 打招呼的第一句仍然是「吃饭了吗？」。食 物对中国社会来说，不仅只为温饱，也作 为食养保健，以维持身体健康。

DL ACKEN (2)

A remarkable new book captures the authentic essence and vast scope of a venerable tradition.

Fish in Chili Sauce 大千干烧鱼

Mapo Tofu 麻婆豆腐

Soy Sauce Chicken 豉油鸡

Tea Eggs 茶叶蛋

Shanghai Pork Chop Noodle Soup 上海排骨面

DL ACKEN (5)

BOOK REVIEW

times, has continued to evolve. Mao’s Cultural Revolution and its consequences on the food supply, for example, created a culinary revolution that forced people to put their ingenuity to use for survival by seeking out new ingredients and improvised methods of cooking.

The authors’ depth of understanding and love for their subject matter become evident as they enlarge upon the fundamental influence that food has had on every aspect of Chinese life. In a country where people still greet one another by asking whether or not they have eaten, food at every level of society is considered not only fuel, but also medicine, a means of balancing the body and maintaining and correcting the health.

China: The Cookbook has the power to inspire anyone, from professional to beginner, with a reawakened interest in Chinese cookery. It provides readers, before they ever pick up a cleaver, with a solid grounding, including a concise roundup of regional culinary styles, basic cooking techniques and kitchen equipment, and sensible advice on how to create a balanced menu.

In the same spirit of essential education, the book contains a complete glossary that describes each ingredient with precision and explains not only its role in cooking but also its cultural connotations. And an intriguing “Guest Chef” section features some of today’s most famous Chinese chefs from around the world sharing their favorite recipes.

In a country as enormous and diverse as China, the range of dishes is astronomical.

Deciding on which to include and which to leave out is a little like being asked to choose between one’s children. The authors have made a few bold decisions, like excluding the universally popular Peking duck and including some lesser-known entries with interesting backstories. One of these, chicken with Chinese ham, was created for HRH Prince Philip during a royal visit to Hong Kong in 1959 and was carefully designed to avoid the necessity of negotiating bones with chopsticks. There are many old

Noodles with Spicy Brown Sauce 炸酱面

standbys as well, such as drunken chicken and sweet-and-sour fish, and some that use unusual parts of animals or fish or littleknown vegetables or seasonings.

With the sheer culinary distance covered

by Chinese cuisine, some of the more offbeat-sounding dishes are certainly included to demonstrate the expanse of ingredients and flavor combinations employed throughout the regions rather than as serving suggestions for a buffet party. At the opposite end of the ingredient spectrum, proving that not all Chinese cuisine requires a bevy of exotic spices or unfamiliar and challenging cuts of meat, are recipes which could easily be replicated in the West, for instance, a grey mullet dish from Hong Kong seasoned simply with salt and lemon. The more

notorious Chinese ingredients, like shark fin and dog meat, are absent from the book, and the one softshell turtle recipe comes with the caveat that the dish should be made only when the reptiles are available from a sustainable source.

Thoughtfully written and elegantly presented, China: The Cookbook serves as an ideal introduction for the novice cook as well as an invaluable reference work for the accomplished chef, a tour de force in making sure that one of China’s cultural treasures lives on and continues to bring pleasure to the tables of the world.

Phaidon books are available for purchase at www.phaidon.com, Kelly & Walsh and Bookazine. enchanted ingredients

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BOOK REVIEW

Egg Rolls 抓皮春卷

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Phaidon books 可从 www.phaidon.com 购 买。香港地区则于Kelly & Walsh和 Bookazine 有售。

DL ACKEN (2)

不论是专业主厨或入门厨师，都能从 《China: The Cookbook》中获得启迪，重燃 对中国菜的热情。在读者拿起切肉刀实际 演练之前，本书先从基本功开始，阐述各 地的料理风格、基本烹调诀窍和常用的厨 房器具，并针对菜单提供实用的建议。本 书附有对照表，详实列出每一项配料的烹 饪功能，以及其代表的文化意涵。「大厨掌 勺 (Guest Chef)」这部分非常有趣，从世界 各地请来当今最知名的中国大厨，分享他 们最喜爱的食谱。 中国幅员辽阔、民族众多，料理种类 无以计数。哪些食谱该纳入、该舍弃，是 极为艰难的决定，丝毫不亚于割舍亲生骨 肉。作者做了不少大胆的决定，比如书中 未纳入举世闻名的北京烤鸭，改而介绍名 气较小、却有一番有趣故事的菜色 ：金华 玉树鸡。这是专为了菲利普亲王 1959 年到 访香港而做的，而且考虑到他可能拿不惯 筷子，还细心剔去鸡骨。此外还有不少老 式小菜，如醉鸡、糖醋鱼，有些是用鱼或 动物的特殊部位去做，也有些是用市面上 少见的蔬菜或调味料腌制而成。 中国菜来自大江南北，两位作者特别 纳 入 某 些 听 起 来 就 很 异 类 的 菜 名， 以 证 明中国各地有五花八门的原料和混合调 味的方法，不像自助餐派对所提供的菜式 建议。本书搜罗的食材范围极广，证明了 中国菜并非都需要用一大堆异国香料或展 现刀工的肉材，某些菜的做法就连西方人 也能一学就会，像是香港只用盐或柠檬调 味的鲻鱼。有些饱受争议的食材，如鱼翅 或狗肉，则并未纳入本书 ；此外，鳖的做 法也有其限制，只能选用在保育地养殖的 鳖。 本书内容详实、版面设计优雅，既是 新手厨师的最佳入门书，也是优秀厨师不 可多得的参考书。多亏有这本杰作，中国 珍贵的饮食文化得以流传，也大大满足了 全世界饕客的口腹之欲。

Hot and Sour Soup 酸辣汤

Ingredients for Enchantment

INGREDIENTS

MUTED SMATTERINGS of oohs and aahs are to A visionary Hong be expected at any world-class restaurant, but Kong chef unites a sudden outburst of delighted giggles is sometwo great cuisines thing else again. At VEA, one of Hong Kong’s latest in some very Michelin-star recipients, however, all of the above unanticipated ways. are everyday occurrences. Co-owner and executive chef Vicky Cheng considers such expressions of wonderment clear signals that he and his team 在任何一家世界级餐厅，都可能看到 are successfully delivering what he terms “Chinese 有人默默发出惊呼，但能逗得客人发 x French” cuisine – classic French technique applied 出会心一笑，可就不简单了。若你来 to uniquely Chinese ingredients. 到其中一间最新挤进米其林名单的香 Every dish, from snacks to main courses to ，上述情景可说是天天 港餐厅「VEA」 mignardises, presents an unexpected angle or a 上演。在餐厅合伙人暨行政主厨 Vicky moment of revelation, whether or not guests are Cheng 眼中，此一惊喜交织的反应正 familiar with the local ingredients. “Every night, 是对自己及团队所打造的－「中法混 someone will display some sign of surprise,” says 血」料理的一大肯定，意即运用经典 Cheng. “We have an open kitchen so there’s no 奇珍异材 法式料理技巧烹调独特的中式食材。 hiding it.” It may come when his fanciful interpre从餐前点心、主菜到餐后小点等 tation of the classic Cantonese steamed fish, for 每一道菜，无论是以意料之外的角度 instance, teases the eye with a crispy chip in a BY 切入，抑或深具启发性，不管客人是 checkered pattern of green and yellow or astonMAMIE CHEN 否熟悉道地食材均相当受用。主厨表 ishes the palate with the tang of soy, ginger, and 示： 「我们每晚都能观察到客人惊讶的 spring onion.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY 表现，在开放式厨房里看得一清二楚。 」 Cheng recalls the reaction of a party of DAVID HARTUNG 以创意十足的经典广东蒸鱼改良版来 sixty-year-old Chinese guests to a particular pre说，上桌时黄绿相间的格纹脆饼常让 sentation. They’d just been served you zha gui , 客人觉得别开生面，综合大豆、姜及青葱的调味也给 Chinese fried crullers, as authentically light and crispy as those 味蕾带来无穷惊喜。 from a local congee shop like the one in which Cheng had toiled to 主厨忆起一群六十岁高龄中国客人看到「油炸鬼」 master the technique taught by a patient shīfu. “First they giggled,” 的反应。他的炸油条味道正宗，口感清脆，和地方粥 says Cheng, “then they laughed, and I could see that the dish had 品店无异，这是他承蒙老店师傅悉心指导，苦学而来 brought them back to their childhood.” But this cheap street snack 的技巧。此一历史悠久的路边铜板小吃被他重新发扬 of years gone by had been glorified by Cheng with the unmistak光大，改良过的炸油条散发着浓浓的松露气息。他形 able perfume of truffle. 容客人先是不禁喀喀出声，接着笑了起来，好似这道 “If you grew up in Hong Kong, you can immerse yourself in 菜把他们带回孩提时光一般。 the experience and understand the thinking behind many of the 他进一步解释 ： 「在香港出生成长的人可以理解 dishes,” says Cheng. But while guests who are Chinese will be cap很多菜背后的构想，徜徉其中。 」若是中国客人，相信 tivated by his reinventions, Cheng’s hope is that those who aren’t 也会深深臣服于这些新创菜色的魅力。换成外国客人， will be pleasantly surprised by ingredients they may never have 主厨则希望他们能尽情享用从未品尝过的食材，沉浸 tried before. 于惊喜之中。 “I grew up in America,” says Cheng, “but I get it because I’m 「我在美国长大，但我是中国人－海参、 Vicky 说 ： Chinese – sea cucumbers, duck eggs, salted plums – I could go on

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and on. We experiment with these favorites and often change their texture or appearance a bit, and if guests are willing to try them, they’ll be glad they did. What makes me happiest is when people trust me enough to try something they weren’t sure about and realize they like it – then I feel like I’ve done my job.”

鸭蛋及酸梅的味道我都懂，这些地道食材我还可以一 直说下去。把众人喜爱的食材做点变化，调整口感及 外观，敢试试看的客人一定不会后悔。大家愿意信任 我，尝试自己都不太确定的食物，并发现合自己口味时， 我就觉得功德圆满了，那是最开心的时刻。 」

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SEA CUCUMBER 海 参

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“We have to understand the classics – how they taste and how they’re cooked – before we can begin reinventing them,” says Cheng. “Then we can have fun introducing French techniques here and there.” The sea cucumber serves as a prime exemplar in his Chinese x French cuisine: after mastering the Chinese methods of blooming it, Cheng immediately began experimenting with the texture and flavor profile of an ingredient traditionally braised.

In his signature iteration, Cheng roasts it in goose fat for crispy skin and crunchy tips that counterbalance its inherently gelatinous quality. He stuffs it with a mousseline of Japanese scallops and langoustine, then garnishes it with a seasonal vegetable paired with a bisque made from the langoustine heads and shells. “If we had red tablecloths and you saw the dish, you couldn’t help but think it was Chinese.

But if you taste it with eyes closed, you’ll be convinced it’s French.”

主厨强调 ： 「要先掌握经典菜色的味道及做法，才能重 新创作，在料理过程中巧妙融合法式烹调技巧，玩兴十 足。 」海参绝对是他「中法混血」料理的绝佳例证 ：运 用纯熟的中式技巧泡发，古法熬煮后的海参到了主厨手 中立刻成为实验的最佳素材，探索口感及味道的各种可 能。

Vicky 使出拿手绝活，海参浸入鹅油后过烤，增加 外皮脆度，让尖刺酥化，与参肉充满胶质的口感形成鲜 明对比。里面镶入日本扇贝及螯虾制成的慕斯馅，缀上 季节时蔬，搭配虾头及虾壳炖煮的浓汤享用 ： 「假设餐 厅用的是红色桌巾，客人八成会把这道菜当成中式料理， 但闭起眼品尝的话，必然能发现这是法式风味。 」

脆皮海参伴海螯虾及葫芦瓜 CRISPY SEA CUCUMBER WITH LANGOUSTINE AND BUTTERNUT SQUASH

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米

DRIED SHRIMP ROE

DRIED SHRIMP 虾

虾 籽

甘鲷鱼伴白子、 虾米、紫苏 AMADAI WITH SHIRAKO, 〝HAR MI”, AND SHISO

“There are some ingredients, like dried shrimp, that you know are Chinese from the moment you see them, smell them, or even hear their names,” says Cheng. “I like to introduce these into a very French dish or combine them with not-so-Chinese ingredients.”

For the dish pictured here, Cheng prepares Japanese ingredients with French techniques and infuses it all with a touch of Chinese vim.

He first dredges shirako in seasoned flour and then, to protect the creamy and subtly sweet interior, pan-fries it until the surface is just crisp. Next he tosses it with a mixture of sautéed shiso, onions, and garlic that has been deglazed with pickled goji berries and their brine as well as reconstituted dried shrimp and its flavorful soaking liquid.

Atop the shirako base, Cheng gracefully balances a fillet of deepfried amadai. Around it he pours a sauce made from dashi mixed with shiso oil and a generous sprinkling of dried shrimp roe. “The dried shrimp and shrimp roe aren’t the main flavors in the dish, but they enhance it enough that you start to wonder what it reminds you of.”

「有些食材，像虾米，一看、一闻， Vicky 指出 ： 甚或光听名字就知道是属于中菜，我特别喜欢 把它放进纯法式菜色，或和其他非中式食材相 互混和。 」 在此要介绍的菜色融合了日式食材及法式 技巧，再贯注一丝中式色彩于其中。他先用调 味 面 粉 沾 裹 白 子， 放 上 平 底 锅 煎 至 表 面 酥 脆， 白子内部口感依旧绵密、甜度恰到好处。紫苏、 洋葱及大蒜过煎收干，加入腌枸杞及腌汁，再 放进虾米组合成形，混和风味浓郁的汤汁及白 子。 白子及综合食材为底，主厨匠心独具，放 上酥炸软棘鱼排，让味道达到平衡，同时调和高 汤及紫苏油，洒上大量虾籽后便是完美的酱汁 ： 「虾米及虾籽并非这道菜的要角，却能让风味大 幅提升，让人不禁想探索味道到底从何而来。 」

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VIRGIN MUD C RA B

“At VEA, we really try to explore ingredients that are unique to Hong Kong,” says Cheng. “I love that the virgin mud crab only exists here, and we use it whenever it’s in season.”

The roe of the virgin mud crab is more fragrant than that of other more well-known varieties like the hairy crab. Cheng especially prizes it for its soft texture that is retained even after baking. He can emulsify the roe with a crab-shell reduction into an egg-yolk sauce that he knows will stay silky smooth. He whips the sauce with the shredded crabmeat and adds a hint of red vinegar and ginger to complete his reinterpretation of brandade, the Mediterranean salt-cod spread, as a Chinese crab spread. It becomes part of a whimsical jungle scene, complete with “soil” of leek ash and black garlic, “rocks” of powdered caviar and cured sardines, and “trees” of pickled cucumber and asparagus.

「发挥香港在地食材的潜能是 VEA 的一大 宗旨。 」主厨接着强调 ： 「我就爱只在香港 吃得到的奄仔蟹，季节一到绝对少不了奄 仔蟹菜式。 」 奄仔蟹蟹膏味道较毛蟹等其他广为人 知的蟹种来得更加浓厚，肉质柔软，烤过 之后仍然香嫩，让 Vicky 赞赏有加。他可 以放心把蟹膏和入蟹壳熬煮的浓缩汤汁， 乳化成蛋黄酱，质地依然丝般滑顺，接着 加进螃蟹碎肉搅拌，以及少许红醋及姜提 味，正是重新诠释地中海名菜－盐渍鳕鱼 泥的中式版本，同时也成为主厨异想天开 的丛林场景一部分： 韭菜焦粉及黑蒜为「土 壤」 、干粉鱼子酱及腌沙丁鱼为「石头」以 及扮演「树木」的渍小黄瓜及芦笋。

奄仔蟹

森林生活 : 螃蟹、鱼子酱及腌沙甸鱼 “LIFE IN THE JUNGLE” WITH VIRGIN MUD CRAB BRANDADE, CAVIAR, AND CURED SARDINE

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S A LT E D DUC K EGG

咸 鴨 蛋

“When we built this dish,” says Cheng, “we wanted to do things that seemed a little out of the norm to many but use techniques and ingredients that were familiar to me.” His extraordinary duck done three ways sees traditional Chinese techniques applied to typically French ingredients and vice versa.

Cheng bathes a French wild duck with ten ladles of hot Chiuchow braising sauce of sweet soy and spices, then chills the duck to lock in the flavor and repeats the process three times. Next, he double-smokes the duck, chilling it again between rounds. The methods are traditional, but he plays with timing and temperature to infuse flavor without cooking the meat. Finally, he grills the breast to a perfect medium-rare and confits the leg, folding it in with foie gras and steaming it in a savory longevity bun.

The third manifestation of duck references a Taiwanese dish of stir-fried bitter melon with salted duck egg. To tame the gourd’s infamous bitterness, Cheng poaches it in a salt-sugar solution and cooks it au gratin with a crust of grated salted egg, butter, breadcrumbs, and parsley.

主厨谈到这道菜的初衷 ： 「发想这道菜时，团队想用熟悉的技巧及食材创作 式食材，效果奇佳。 首先备好甜酱及香料制成的潮州炖汁，酌十勺的量涂满法国野鸭表面， 接着取出冷却以锁住鸭肉风味，重复此步骤三次后，将鸭肉烟熏兩次，替换 期间再次放冷。处理方式虽然传统，但在不烹煮鸭肉的前提下，主厨仍巧妙 运用时间及温度增加风味，玩出新花样。最后鸭胸烤至恰到好处的三分熟、 鸭腿油封烹调后以鹅肝包覆，放进美味的寿桃包子内蒸煮。 鸭肉的第三式主要发想自台湾菜－咸鸭蛋炒苦瓜。主厨先把苦瓜浸入 盐糖混和液中汆烫，去掉让人敬而远之的苦味，接着扑上一层碎咸鸭蛋、奶 油、面包屑及荷兰芹后焗烤便可上桌。

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苦 瓜

BITTER MELON

出人意表的菜。 」而根据想法所创作的鸭肉三式融合典型传统中菜技巧及法

茶熏野鸭伴苦瓜、咸蛋及蜜桃 TEA SMOKED WILD DUCK WITH BITTER MELON, SALTED DUCK EGG, AND PEACH

羊肉配水牛芝士、鸭蛋面及粱醋 LAMB WITH BURRATA, DUCK EGG NOODLE, AND SORGHUM VINEGAR

“This dish began as a joke,” says Cheng. An off-the-cuff remark during an after-hours meal at a dai pai dong turned into a full-blown research project on crispy sweet-and-sour noodles, complete with a team outing to one of Hong Kong’s best Chiuchow restaurants. They studied the dish before eating it, asked many questions, garnered few answers, and returned to the restaurant to explore the possibilities.

Cheng pairs the crispy noodles with a reduction of sorghum vinegar and Okinawa black sugar and tops it with burrata cheese.

Although they make fresh pasta at VEA every day, Cheng leaves the Chiuchow noodles to the experts and buys them from a shop in Wanchai. He knows that part of the secret lies in the use of duck eggs, which impart a warmer color, springier texture, and richer flavor: “Duck eggs are more fragrant. I don’t know if it makes sense, but a duck egg is more like an egg than a hen egg.”

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「这道菜原本是说笑来着。 」下 Vicky 笑着说 ： 班后到大牌档吃饭时随口一说，竟演变成酥 脆糖醋面的全面调查，最终以团队全体出动 造访香港最佳潮州餐厅做结。开动之前他们 已然做了许多研究、问了一堆问题、收到些 许答覆，再回到餐厅一探不同的可能性。 他选用高梁醋及冲绳黑糖搭配糖醋面， 再把布瑞达​​起司置于其上。「VEA」每天现杆 新鲜的意大利面，但潮州面依然留给专家制 作，选择从湾仔一家专门店购入。主厨强调， 好吃的秘诀就在鸭蛋，可以让颜色温润、口 感弹滑，风味更好 ： 「鸭蛋味道较足，这样讲 不知道说不说得通－有种鸭蛋比起鸡蛋更像 蛋的感觉。 」

DUC K EGG NOO DLE 鸭 蛋 面

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JUJUBE

C HINESE P RESERVED OLIVE

红 枣

中 国 橄 榄

“I’ve always believed that sugar is the biggest enemy of dessert,” says Cheng. “If the dessert is too sweet, all the flavor gets lost and you can’t taste anything at all.”

For this reason, VEA’s menu always ends with a lightly sweet fruit-based dessert followed by a salty-sweet one.

Previous incarnations of the latter have featured salted duck egg, bacon, and even shrimp.

In his Stones and Pebbles dessert, salted and preserved Chinese olives, intensely pungent, are introduced as the savory element to counterbalance the sweet and aromatic dried jujubes. Drawing inspiration from two very different sources, an American parfait and a steamed Chinese cake of layered red dates and coconut, Cheng folds jujube purée into caramel as a base, adds layers of coconut sorbet and soft sponge cake, and tops it with a dollop of Chinese olive whipped cream. Then, as his trademark twist, he covers the entire dessert with “stones” of soft marshmallows and “pebbles” of crunchy burnt milk meringue. “When you take a spoonful through all the layers, you get every one of those flavors and every temperature and texture – frozen, cool, warm, soft, chewy, crunchy.”

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主厨语重心长表示 ： 「我一向认为糖 是甜点最大的敌人，弄得过甜，所 有风味都会跑掉，根本吃不出任何 味道。 」因此「VEA」的菜单均以微 甜水果点心，加以咸甜糕点收尾， 此前曾用过咸鸭蛋、培根，甚或虾 子等不同食材。 这次他端出「石头与石春」点 心，用味道偏呛的盐渍中国橄榄作 为媒介，中和红枣干的香甜气息。 他的灵感来源相当特别，出自美式 芭菲及中式红枣及椰子千层蒸糕两 种截然不同的点心 ：红枣泥掺入焦 糖做底，层层叠上椰子冰糕及柔嫩 的海绵蛋糕，缀上一球鲜奶油及中 国橄榄切片。接着主厨的拿手好戏 登场，以「石头 ( 松软棉花糖 )」及 「石春 ( 酥烤牛奶蛋白霜 )」包住整 个甜点 ： 「一匙舀下，可以尝到每一 层不同的味道、温度及口感－冰冻、 凉爽、温暖、柔软、嚼劲及酥脆一 次满足。 」

「石头与石春」伴白橄榄、枣、椰子及奶黄 “STONES AND PEBBLES” WITH CHINESE OLIVE, JUJUBE, COCONUT, BURNT MILK

SPECIAL EVENT

璀璨之夜

STARRY NIGHT A brilliant array of internationally acclaimed chefs ignite diners’ senses at a glittering event in Macau.

MELCO CROWN ENTERTAINMENT

BY INARA SIM

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANDREW J LOITERTON

MELCO CROWN ENTERTAINMENT

MELCO CROWN ENTERTAINMENT

SPECIAL EVENT

IN NOVEMBER, to celebrate the launch of the Michelin Hong Kong Macau 2017 Dining Series, Studio City Macau hosted the inaugural edition of the Michelin and Robert Parker Wine Advocate Gala Dinner, entitled A Sensorial

为庆祝「2017 年米其林指南香港澳门」

Gourmet Journey.

The exclusive event featured a one-ofa-kind menu by world-renowned chefs from top Michelin-starred restaurants: Alvin Leung of Bo Innovation in Hong Kong (three stars), Hideaki Matsuo of Kashiwaya in Osaka (three stars), Björn Frantzén of Restaurant Frantzén in Stockholm (two stars), Shinji Kanesaka of Sushi Kanesaka in Tokyo (one star), Macau’s Guillaume Galliot of The Tasting Room (two stars), and Tam Kwok Fung of Jade Dragon (two stars). Also featured was the world’s most prominent pastry chef, Pierre Hermé.

Their dishes were paired with a knockout lineup of some of the world’s most soughtafter wines, selected by Robert Parker Wine Advocate.

Throughout the dinner, Spanish designer Manuel Albarran orchestrated a kaleidoscopic visual and aural presentation that took guests on a journey through the senses. Over the course of five acts, Albarran brought each sense to life with his avant-garde costumes and imaginative perceptual effects.

Here are the talents behind the epic evening:

感官之旅」 。

系列餐饮活动开跑，米其林与权威葡萄酒 评论出版商 Robert Parker Wine Advocate 共同主办的星级盛宴在 11 月于澳门新濠 影汇隆重登场，带来豪奢逸乐的「美食 璀璨之夜由全球顶级米其林餐 厅 邀 来 多 位 名 厨， 打 造 独 一 无 二 的 菜 单 ：香 港「 厨 魔 」( 三 星 ) 梁 经 伦、 大 阪「柏屋」( 三星 ) 松尾英明、斯德哥尔 摩「Restaurant Frantzén」( 二星 ) Björn

Frantzén、东京「鮨金坂」( 一星 ) 金坂 真次、澳门「御膳房」( 二星 )Guillaume

Galliot 及「 誉 珑 轩 」( 二 星 ) 谭 国 锋，

甜品更是由世界首屈一指的糕点大师

Pierre Hermé 亲自操刀。Robert Parker Wine Advocate 亦为这几道菜配搭一系 列于全球广受欢迎的美酒，让精致美食 与酒品互相辉映。盛宴期间穿插西班牙 鬼才设计师 Manuel Albarran 精心打造 的 视 听 飨 宴， 邀 请 宾 客 一 同 踏 上 变 化 万千的感官旅程。五段演出中的各式前 卫服装造型及充满想像力的感官效果， 对人类五感诠释得丝丝入扣。 這場星级盛宴的幕后功臣如下 ： ENCHANTED INGREDIENTS | TK |

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SENSES of FALL 秋天的甜酸苦辣 A light, vibrant gazpacho of roasted bell peppers, tomatoes, and cucumbers paired with various combinations of freshly baked crisps 锋味薄脆与西班牙冻汤深秋共舞

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SPECIAL EVENT

Fi r s t C o u r s e

NICHOLAS TSE Well-known Hong Kong actor, foodie, and television celebrity chef Nicholas Tse was recognized as a Friend of Michelin for his contribution to the culinary industry. He was chosen to present the dinner’s amusebouche, Senses of Fall, which was a tribute to his adopted home of Vancouver, Canada.

A light, vibrant gazpacho, it captured the essence of autumn with roasted bell peppers, tomatoes, and cucumbers and was accompanied by crispy tuiles.

“The simplest ingredients are often the hardest to work with,” says Tse. “What I really like to do in my cooking is explore and present different cultures, flavors, and culinary elements. This dish brings together vegetables from around the world – tomatoes from Australia, cucumbers from Spain, red and green peppers from Holland, and banana shallots and garlic from France. I’ve assembled these simple things in a shot glass and presented them in their most refined form. To complement the gazpacho, I’ve reinterpreted some of my cookies into the form of fallen maple leaves that serve as reminders of the colors, smells, and flavors of the season.”

香港著名演员、美食家及影视明星－谢霆锋对 烹饪业界的贡献备受肯定，获选为米其林之 友。他以主理的「秋天的甜酸苦辣 (Senses of Fall)」，向加拿大温哥华家乡景色致敬，并作 为晚宴开胃菜。这道清爽、特色鲜明的西班牙 冻汤囊括多种秋季代表性食材，有烤甜椒、番 茄及小黄瓜搭配锋味薄脆。 他表示 ： 「最简单的食材其实最难处理。 探索并呈现不同的文化、口味及烹饪元素，正 是我的目标。这道菜囊括了世界不同地方的蔬菜－澳洲的番茄、西班 牙的小黄瓜、荷兰的红椒和青椒，以及法国直送的香蕉红葱和大蒜。 我把这些寻常食材放入玻璃杯中， 展现其最完美一面。同时为搭配冻汤， 我将平日烘制的薄脆稍微改良，做成枫叶的形状，不管是颜色、味道 或口味，让人想起秋色美景。 」

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special event

Second Course

SHINJI KANESAKA Showcasing the freshest seasonal ingredients in the best possible light is what first attracted Shinji Kanesaka to cooking, and it’s what makes his local restaurant, Shinji by Kanesaka, Macau’s most exquisite experience in Japanese fine dining. Leading as the first course of the evening, Kanesaka’s creation was a subtle interplay of creamy otoro tuna belly, soft sea urchin, and crisp Hokkaido ikura. “This dish really plays to people’s sense of touch,” he says.

“The different textures of the ingredients on the tongue should be a real delight.”

Kanesaka’s inspiration was the availability of excellent quality tuna ensured by the cold water temperatures surrounding Japan in winter. The chef remained true to his ethos of giving ingredients their greatest visual appeal by plating them in the center of a glass dish and topping the finished product with flakes of gold leaf. “I express my life through my cuisine,” he says, “and this dish is from my heart.”

OT ORO FATTY T U N A B E L LY, SEA URCHIN, and HOKKAIDO IKURA 吞拿鱼大腹 , 海胆及北海道三文鱼籽

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散发光芒，也正是此一精神让他的餐厅「金坂极上寿司」成 为在澳门享用顶级日本料理的首选。他以口感绵密的吞拿鱼 大腹、甜软海胆及爽脆的北海道三文鱼籽交织成晚宴的精致 序曲。他强调 ： 「这道菜诉诸的是客人的触觉，各种食材口 感在舌尖上共舞，确为一大亮点。 」 大厨的灵感来自冬季日本邻近海域，冰冷海水孕育出

A subtle interplay of crisp salmon roe,

的吞拿鱼，品质绝佳无与伦比。他秉持一贯的理念，将食材

soft sea urchin, and creamy tuna belly

置于玻璃盘中间，以金箔妆点其上，创造最佳视觉效果 ： 「我

脆嫩三文鱼籽, 甜软海胆及丰厚吞拿鱼腩的微妙结合

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金坂真次投身烹饪界的初衷，是希望让鲜度一流的季节食材

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以料理帮自己发声，这道菜是我用心创作的成果。 」

special event

Third Course

GUILLAUME GALLIOT

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「御膳房」行政主厨 Guillaume Galliot 接 到此盛宴洽询时正巧在吃喇沙，而这再 普通不过的日常行程却成为创作鳕场蟹 喇沙的契机。他说明： 「我在新加坡待过， 太太也是新加坡人，三不五时就吃喇沙。 我就想，何不把喇沙酱汁汤底和螃蟹沙 拉这种经典法国菜搭搭看看？我认为效 果相当不错。 」 与鳕场蟹喇沙搭配的是 2013 年一 级 园 “Les Genevrières” Rémi Jobard 葡 萄酒。 Guillaume 强调，餐酒搭配的重 要性不言可喻 ： 「再棒的美食搭配不好的 酒都可能是灾难一场，反之亦然，一定 要找到完美平衡。 」

Guillaume 花了几个月不断微调改 善，寻找相互搭配的葡萄酒，冗长的创 作过程在他眼里相当值得 ： 「有机会参 与此一盛事、和这些顶级大厨并肩工作 真的太美妙了－我兴奋得像个小朋友一 样。入行以来心心念念的梦想终于成真， 我现在也是其中的一员了。 」

Executive Chef of The Tasting Room, Galliot happened to be eating laksa when he received the invitation to take part in the gala, and that quotidian event became the inspiration for his Alaskan snow crab salad with laksa foam. “I used to live in Singapore,” he says. “I’m married to a Singaporean and I eat laksa all the time. I thought, why not use this base sauce to complement a classic French dish like a crab salad? I think it works very well together.”

The dish was paired with a 2013 Meursault 1er Cru “Les Genevrières” Rémi Jobard. “The relationship between food and wine is one of the most important things ever,” says Galliot.

“Fantastic food with bad wine can be a disaster, and vice versa. You really have to find the perfect balance.”

Although he spent months creating, perfecting, and pairing his dish, the chef considers it time well spent: “To be part of this event, alongside these amazing chefs, is incredible – I feel like a little kid. You dream your whole career about something like this, and now I’m part of it.”

ALASKAN SNOW CRAB SALAD with LAKSA FOAM 阿拉斯加鳕场蟹沙律 伴喇沙泡沫 A unique combination of Asiainspired spiced foam and the freshness of Alaskan crabmeat 亚洲风味与新鲜阿拉斯加蟹之绝佳演绎

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Fo u r t h C o u r s e

BJÖRN FRANTZÉN 第 四 道 菜 由 名 气 响 亮 的 瑞 典 餐 厅「Restaurant Frantzén」 主 厨 Björn

Frantzén 掌厨，揉合炙烧北海道鲜带子、伴指橘、云杉芽、干带子及 「高汤一般用鲣鱼、花菇及昆 Björn 的招牌之一「北欧高汤」。他说明 ： 布来熬，我则选用干焦糖扇贝、瑞典秋季鸡油菇和冰岛一种名为 söl 的 海藻来做。 」

Björn 形容这道菜融合了斯堪地维尼亚及亚洲元素，新鲜清爽但 风味十足， 「北欧式怀石料理」风格展露无遗。他指出 ： 「北欧料理自 成一格，斯堪地维尼亚半岛四季分明、差异极大，每个季节特色鲜明， 意即地方新鲜食材随着一年时序变化会有各种样貌，所谓的怀石厨房 正正是跟着食材走的。 」 提到曾有客人用餐后感动落泪，Björn 甚感欣慰。至于盛宴的菜色， 他则会以惊喜、宾主尽欢为主要目标。他表示 ： 「希望客人会喜欢，这 道菜蕴含许多有趣的味道，像松木及伴指橘等鲜有人体验过的食材，毕 竟尝新尝鲜总是没有坏处的。 」

SEARED HOKKAIDO SCALLOP 北海道鲜带子 Served with finger lime, spruce shoots, dried scallop roe, and Nordic “dashi” 伴指橘, 云杉芽, 干带子及北欧高汤

For the fourth course, Björn Frantzén, famed Swedish chef of Restaurant Frantzén, presented seared Hokkaido scallop with finger lime, spruce shoots, dried scallop roe, and Nordic “dashi,” the last element being one of Frantzén’s specialties. “Regular dashi is made from bonito, shitake, and kelp,” he explains. “In mine, I use dried and caramelized scallops, Swedish autumn chanterelles, and an Icelandic seaweed known as söl.”

Frantzén describes the dish, a meld of Scandinavian and Asian influences, as light and fresh but packed with flavor, a perfect example of his “Nordic kaiseki” style cuisine. “Nordic food is pretty unique,” he says. “Scandinavia has four strong, well-defined seasons, each of them very distinct. That means that our fresh ingredients are ever-changing and dependent on the time of year, and a kaiseki kitchen is driven by ingredients.”

While he is gratified to report that his dishes on occasion have brought tears to diners’ eyes, Frantzén’s focus at the gala was to elicit surprise and delight. “Hopefully they’ll enjoy it,” he said. “The dish is full of interesting flavors, some of which they may not have experienced before, especially the pine and finger limes. But it’s always good to try something new.”

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Fi f t h C o u r s e

TAM KWOK FUNG

“Smell is obviously an important element in every meal,” says Tam Kwok Fung, chef of Macau’s acclaimed Jade Dragon. “It’s a warm, hopeful invitation to what is to come.” The senses of sight and smell were primary in the development of Tam’s elegant gala dish.

Beautifully presented, his osmanthus-flower-smoked Racan pigeon was suffused with the aroma of charcoal and Chinese herbal tones. “The pigeon is French,” he says. “We first smoked it and then marinated it in osmanthus, soy sauce, mandarin peel, and wine. And finally, we wrapped it up with chestnuts in gleaming gold foil and roasted it.”

Tam, who is inspired most by fresh high-quality ingredients, is never short on original ideas. “When I create a new dish, I always check out the best seasonal ingredients that are available,” he said. “I base every new menu item on classic Cantonese cooking methods and then fine tune the components and techniques.”

Tam’s dish was paired with a 2006 Château La Fleur-Pétrus, from Bordeaux. “I find that more and more people these days have a good knowledge of wines,” he says. “When they come to the restaurant, they’re not only looking for excellent Cantonese food, they also want to enjoy it with an equally fine wine.”

OSMANTHUSSMOKED BAKED RACAN PIGEON 桂花烟烤法国乳鸽 An osmanthus-flower-smoked Racan pigeon, baked on charcoal with Chinese herbal tones 桂花飘香及中式香料碳烧法国乳鸽

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闻名遐迩的「誉珑轩」行政总厨谭国锋表示 ： 「嗅

感，脑中装满原创的概念。他也大方分享 ： 「我

觉在每道菜中都是不可或缺的要素，令人产生好

创作新菜时通常会先看看市面上有什么最好的季

感、内心有所期待。 」视觉及嗅觉也正是他那优

节食材。每道新菜都以最地道的粤菜烹调方式为

雅晚宴菜色的两大创作要角。

本，成分及技巧则再视情况微调。 」

装盘华美的桂花烟烤法国乳鸽散发浓浓的碳 烤及中式香料风味。总厨提到： 「乳鸽是法国来的， 先熏过再浸入以桂花、酱油、橘皮及酒调成的腌 酱，最后裹上栗子及闪闪发光的金箔再烤制。 」 总厨习惯自品质一流的新鲜食材里汲取灵

对于乳鸽搭配的波尔多产 2006 年 Pétrus 之 他指出： 花庄园 (Château La Fleur-Pétrus) 葡萄酒， 「现在懂酒的客人越来越多，来餐厅可能不仅为 了顶级的广东菜，也想享用品质同样无懈可击的 美酒。 」

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Sixth Course

HIDEAKI MATSUO

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五感之中，听觉大概最难和食物联想在一 起，但坐镇大阪「柏屋」厨房的松尾英明可 不这么想，更欣然接下此一任务。他自豪表 示，每个月至少增加一项挑战或一道新菜是 长年奉行不悖的原则，这个课题正好可以驱 动自己继续往前。 眼前只见一个小型藏宝盒， 一旁缀有经慢煮的龙虾及香菇。他解释： 「闭 起眼睛，轻轻左右摇晃小盒的话，可以听到 波浪的声音。里面放着海草干、昆布及鲣鱼 干，代表海洋的鲜味及声响。 」 松尾英明继续说明 ： 「声音之后换味道 上场。宾客打开盒外的塑胶膜，立即就有香 味扑鼻而来，将高汤上的饼干弄碎伴着龙虾 及香菇享用，简直形同徜徉于海底世界一

Sound might be the last sense that people would associate with food, but Hideaki Matsuo of Kashiwaya in Osaka didn’t shy away from the assignment. “My cardinal rule is at least one challenge or new dish to be added to my menu every month,” he said. “This was a great way to push myself.” Tender poached lobster and shiitake mushrooms were served alongside a small gift box of treasures. “If you close your eyes and gently shake it from side to side, you’ll hear the waves of the ocean,” he says. “Inside, there’s dried seaweed, kombu, and bonito. It represents the tastes and sounds of the sea.

“After the sounds come the scents,” said the chef. “The box is wrapped in plastic, and when it is opened, the guests are enveloped by the aromas. When they break the crackers in the broth and eat it with the lobster and mushrooms, they are virtually transported to the sea.”

In this dish, Matsuo, who is a master of the ryotei style of Japanese haute cuisine, struck a delicate balance between tradition and innovation, the twin pillars of his culinary philosophy. “Things are always changing,” he says, “and my innovation never stops.”

般。 」 日式高级「料亭」餐饮大师松尾英明 总能于自己烹饪哲学的两大灵魂要件－传统 及创新之间取得完美平衡。他强调 ： 「世界 不断变化，我也从未停止创新。 」

S O F T- P O A C H E D I S E LOBSTER, SHIITAKE MUSHROOMS, and LAYERED SEAWEED 慢煮日本龙虾 , 香菇及海藻 The sound of the ocean rings true in this signature dish of soft Ise lobster and a box of surprises 龙虾海之韵及开启惊喜的宝盒

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“I was given the honor of doing the grand finale of the mains,” says Alvin Leung of Hong Kong’s famed Bo Innovation. “All five senses in one dish – sight, smell, sound, touch, and taste – it was quite a challenge.” But his slow-cooked beef short ribs and tendon braised in white truffles with Chinese-style consommé definitely ticked all the boxes. “These are all very normal senses that you explore when you’re cooking. For me, some of them are more important than others. Sight has become very important these days – people take photos of their food if it’s beautiful, before they have even tasted it. The smell is also important, but, like I always say, taste is king. Taste for me is the number one sense.”

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The Demon Chef’s dish was paired with two wines from Pomerol in Bordeaux that enhanced the earthy tones of the dish. “Boundaries are being explored beyond red with red and white with white,” says Leung. “New styles are being created, and Robert Parker is at the forefront of that. He has inspired all these winemakers to make wines that are more approachable for everyone. And he’s making wines more approachable for food, which is fantastic.

“It’s an honor to be part of an event like this,” says Leung. “It means a lot to a chef like me to be surrounded by these stars tonight. Hong Kong has a very recognized dining scene, and tonight I’m representing them, so I hope I won’t disgrace them.”

SPECIAL EVENT

Seventh Course

A LV I N LEUNG

THE DEMON X-TREME BEEF 厨魔超凡牛肉 The chef’s keen intuitive sense is expressed through his favorite dish 厨魔之声与他的至爱菜式

近年蜚声餐饮界的香港「厨魔 (Bo Innovation)」主厨梁经伦对于能负责当晚高潮－最 「一道菜要同时呈现五感－视觉、嗅觉、听觉、触觉及味觉， 后一道主餐感到受宠若惊： 着实是一大挑战。 」他用细火慢煮牛小排，以中式清汤搭配白松露炖煮牛腱，出来的成 果可说全然达标，面面俱到。他分析说 ： 「做菜时很自然会去探寻这些感觉，对我来说， 彼此的重要程度各有不同，但最近大家变得很看重视觉－菜够漂亮，客人尚未开动就 不停拍照了。嗅觉也很关键，但我常说，味觉才是王道，在我眼里它的重要性无可取代。 」 厨魔大厨的菜搭配波尔多波美侯产区的两款酒享用，使朴实的土质味道更上一 层楼。他说 ： 「餐酒搭配不再只限于红肉配红酒及白肉配白酒，新的方式不断出现，

Robert Parker 正是箇中翘楚，掌握发展趋势，启发了当代酿酒业者制作大众更容易接 受的葡萄酒。他也打造更适合餐席间饮用的酒，让用餐体验增色许多。 」 参与此次盛宴他难掩兴奋地表示 ： 「我觉得很光荣，今晚能和这些星级名厨共事对 我来说意义重大。香港餐饮界的高水准备受肯定，今晚有幸作为代表，希望没有让大 家失望。 」 enchanted ingredients

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special event

Eighth Course

PIERRE HERMÉ

There was no doubt that pastry demigod Pierre Hermé, the fourth generation of a family of Alsatian bakers and pâtissiers, would come up with the ultimate showstopper for the gala dessert. The sense he chose to focus on was taste: “When I create, the only thing that matters to me is taste. Never-ending curiosity, a thirst for exploring new flavor territories, and continual revisiting of my own recipes are what have determined my style over the years.

“I always envisage what I call the architecture of taste, the sequence as you bite into the macaron, cake, or chocolate – what happens first, what happens second, what may provide a surprise in the middle.” Such must have been the thought processes that Hermé traversed in creating his sensational single-origin Brazilian bitter chocolate-on-chocolate experience. As hot chocolate sauce was poured over the top, a chocolate sphere melted away to reveal a scoop of chocolate ice cream inside, indulgently supplemented by crunchy chocolate bites.

“Following the theme of the five senses, the dish starts with a really strong visual impact,” said Hermé. “The taste, texture, temperature and smell all follow, arousing all your senses with nothing else but chocolate.”

Pierre Hermé 身为法国阿尔萨斯烘焙及糕点世家第四 代传人，技术炉火纯青，于晚宴端出的颠峰之作果真 不负所望，味道之美令人屏息。他选择以味觉为创作 的出发点 ： 「我唯一在乎的就是味道。无穷尽的好奇心， 加上不断探索全新味道的可能性，同时回顾调整作法， 造就了这些年来属于自己独特的风格。 」 「我常想像所谓『构建味道』的过程，一口咬下马 卡龙、蛋糕或巧克力时，第一步会发生什么事、接着 第二步，以及中间如何制造惊喜效果等等。 」Pierre 创 作单一产地巴西纯苦朱古力双层甜点时想必也是循此 模式，效果果然不凡。热朱古力酱一往下浇，朱古力 球体随之融化，露出藏身其中的朱古力冰淇淋，与朱 古力碎片的酥脆口感搭配的天衣无缝。 「这道甜点与五感主轴环环相扣，以强烈的视觉效 果开场，再陆续感受到朱古力的味道、口感、温度及 气味，以此单一素材挑逗五感，完美收尾。 」

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SENSATION INFINIMENT C H O C O L AT, PURE ORIGINE BRÉSIL, P L A N TAT I O N PA I N E I R A S 巴西派内拉斯朱古力的精彩呈现 A sensational single-origin Brazilian bitter chocolate experience 巴西朱古力之杰出体验

PRESENTED BY WYNN PALACE COTAI

永利皇宫路氹：尝世界之最

Exceptional Cuisine Takes Center Stage at Wynn Palace Cotai Fontana Buffet’s sensational water display and stellar food make for a showstopping experience.

The water shimmers outside floor-to-ceiling windows, a calm horizon of blue, before dramatically erupting in skyrocketing jets that dance with perfect timing to lights and music. It’s no surprise that one of Macau’s biggest draws is the breathtaking fountain show on Performance Lake at Wynn Palace Cotai, with arguably the best views from the comfort and elegance of Fontana Buffet, named in honor of the spectacle outside. § 落地窗前粼粼水光闪烁着耀眼光芒，平静的水面随

节奏起伏，与光线及音乐幻化成壮丽水舞，宛若天成。亳无悬念，永利皇宫的表演湖会成 为澳门的热门景点之一，而环境舒适、气氛高雅的「咖啡苑」，便是享受这般怡人体验的 最佳地点。

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USDA Prime roast beef and succulent rack of lamb

DAVID HARTUNG

肉汁丰富的美国顶级烤牛肉及小羊架

TO THE DELIGHT OF DINERS at breakfast, lunch, and dinner, the performances take place at regular intervals, providing a theatrical backdrop for a dining experience without parallel. Buffets are by no means new to Macau, but Wynn Palace Cotai has most definitely raised the bar with Fontana Buffet, delivering genuinely exceptional cuisine to match its flawless service and impressive surroundings.

The interior design was inspired by the architecture, porcelain, textiles, and furnishings of the East in homage to the genius and inventiveness of imperial China.

One aspect remarked on time and again by guests is the stunning Gabriel ­Frédéric Viardot Dragon Mirror collection that overlooks the buffet. The interior has been

designed as a two-tier theater, ensuring that all diners get uninterrupted views of the performances. And while the aquatic show wows guests, so does a cuisine that redefines the buffet experience.

Chef Min Young Kim has recently been appointed chef de cuisine of Fontana Buffet, and his imaginative menus for all-day dining feature both Chinese and Western favorites. While the focus is on the highest quality rather than simply on quantity, the choices seem endless. Diners can feast on a range of specialties at ten distinct food stations, each showcasing the season’s most spectacular ingredients.

Inspiration was drawn from the world’s finest food halls and markets, from London

表演湖的表演每天定时上演，不论在早 午晚用餐的宾客，都能在用餐同时欣赏 张力十足、无可比拟的精彩演出。自助 餐厅在澳门并不稀有，永利皇宫路氹「咖 啡苑」却能把普通的餐点品质提升至全 新境界－不论是引人入胜的美馔、无可 挑剔的服务，或是令人愉悦的用餐环境， 都让莅临的顾客心感满足。 餐厅的室内设计风格深受东方的建 筑、瓷器、布料及各式家品启发，以华 美独特的室内装潢向中国文化艺术致 敬。其中高挂于自助餐区的龙环镜集系 列造工精美，在任何角度都吸引着客人 目光 ；双层剧院的空间设计也确保每个 位置的客人都能将表演湖美景尽收眼 底。在此，不仅水舞表演让人惊叹连连， 其极致美食也重新定义了自助餐体验。 主厨金荣敏于最近接手「咖啡苑」 enchanted ingredients

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PRESENTED BY WYNN PALACE COTAI

Chef de Cuisine Min Young Kim

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

厨师长金荣敏

to Paris, New York to Tokyo, and one common thread was quickly discovered: the greatest food halls feature specialists who hand select the absolute finest seasonal products. Another key difference that sets Wynn Palace Cotai apart is the emphasis on delivering à la carte quality, ensuring that the food on the buffet is constantly at its best. Add Wynn Palace Cotai’s legendary, ceaseless attention to detail and the result is Macau’s most outstanding buffet experience.

At lunch and dinner, the raw bar is the highlight for most guests, and the sheer selection and quality of seafood on offer make it immediately apparent why. Oysters are the beautiful fine de claire variety from France, and there are enormous tiger prawns from Southeast Asia as well as Maine lobsters and crabs.

The Noodle Bar’s chefs freshly prepare steaming bowls of Chinese classics, and The Butcher offers succulent U.S. Prime

rib eye, strip loin, and other premium cuts for committed carnivores. That’s even before guests reach the freshest global salads and decadent jamón ibérico, the raw bar with sushi and sashimi that would make Tokyo’s Tsukiji Market proud. Then there are the jaw-dropping selections from the bakery – and even five varieties of Macanese jerky.

As is to be expected from one of the world’s greatest pastry chefs, the dessert and patisserie station is the finest in Macau, featuring a breathtaking array of picture-perfect treats laid out over eight meters of indulgence. Add ice cream and chocolate made in-house, the freshest seasonal fruit from around the world, and the philosophy of “Silent Service,” by which the customer’s every need is anticipated, and it’s clear that Fontana Buffet’s starring performance takes place not only on the Performance Lake but also at the table of every guest.

厨师长一职 ，把创意全然投放在餐厅的菜 单中，创作出各种中式及西式的人气招牌 菜。主厨重视质量兼具，菜色除了要有足 够的选择，也保留绝佳味道。「咖啡苑」十 个餐区各有特色，以当季一流食材巧手制 作美味餐点。 从东京，伦敦、巴黎、到纽约，「咖啡 苑」的灵感来自世界各地的顶级餐厅和市 集，由专人严选品质上乘的食材。永利皇 宫路 氹 以坚持而严谨、周密处理每个细节 的态度，使「咖啡苑」每样菜式具品质保证， 这正是餐厅独树一格的关键因素，也彰显 出「咖啡苑」在澳门首屈一指的自助餐厅 的地位。 每天的午餐及晚餐时段，供应高品质 海鲜的海鲜吧是众多客人的首选，各式鲜 美的法国芬大奇生蚝、大量来自东南亚的 虎虾、美国缅因州的龙虾和螃蟹，实在令 人难以抉择。 面食吧师傅为客人现点现煮，各式传 统经典面食，应有尽有。另一方则见肉汁 丰富的美国顶级肉眼、腰脊牛排及各款顶 级牛扒 ；还有各式新鲜沙拉及美味非常的 伊比利亚火腿。烘焙面包区种类丰富也令 人称奇，光是能在澳门本地尝到的肉干， 也多达五种可供选择。 这里的甜点及糕点的品质也是首屈一 指的，八米长的餐台上尽是令人屏息的甜 点，每款皆出自世界一流糕点师傅，精致 缤纷像画中取出来一样，满足客人的眼睛 和味蕾 ；加上供应自家制的冰淇淋、朱古 力和汇聚世界各地的新鲜时令水果及细心 的观察，主动满足宾客的需求等细致服务 ； 这些都体现了「咖啡苑」的五星级演出不 仅限于表演湖，而是每分每刻在客人桌边 上演。

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WeChat: 澳门永利渡假村

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PRESENTED BY WYNN PALACE COTAI

永利皇宫路氹：甜点乌托邦

Wonderland of Sweets at Wynn Palace Cotai

Handcrafted confections and classic macarons make even the sweetest dreams come true at Wynn Palace Cotai.

If Willy Wonka were to move to Macau, there’s only one place that would be certain to live up to his highest expectations: Sweets at Wynn Palace Cotai. A dream-come-true of treats at every turn, it’s every kid’s – and every nostalgic grown-up’s – fondest fantasy. § 若电影「朱古力工厂」中的

主人王卡卫 (Willy Wonka) 有天搬到澳门，相信只有一个地方能符合他的要求：永利皇宫路 氹「甜艺廊」。店内无处不让人觉得美梦成真，绝对是所有小孩和拥有童年情怀的大人一 个最美好的梦幻之地。

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Picture-perfect pâtisserie that taste just as good as they look 味道与卖相一样完美无瑕的精致蛋糕

A GLEAMING MARBLE COUNTER unites five different sections, each more enticing than the last. Part creamery and part candy shop, Sweets also features eye-popping displays of pastries, cakes, ice cream, macarons, and waffles. Even the walls look good enough to eat, with beautiful pop-art mosaics portraying all the best things in any childhood reverie of classic desserts: cupcakes, ice cream cones, chocolate-dipped strawberries.

The man behind this paradise of temptation is Christophe Devoille, one of the world’s most renowned pastry chefs and a master of his art. A native of Strasbourg, France, he has a culinary resume unmatched in Asia when it comes to the world of pâtisserie. After training for five years, he moved to New York as pastry chef at La Côte Basque, an Alain Ducasse restaurant in Midtown, now known as Benoit.

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It was the start of Devoille’s long and happy relationship with the French maestro, including stints at some of his Michelinstarred temples like Plaza Athénée in Paris and Le Jules Verne on the Eiffel Tower before becoming the worldwide executive pastry chef for the Ducasse group. It was a remarkable achievement and the perfect background for someone taking on the new and exciting challenge at Wynn Palace Cotai.

Two and a half years on, he heads a team of thirty-five in the best-equipped pastry kitchen in Asia, transforming an immense array of the finest French and global products into creations that seem almost too beautiful to eat. Everything is produced in-house from scratch. Even the marzipan, ganaches, and pralines used in the spectacular display of chocolates are made by dedicated teams.

Devoille also oversees pastry production for the entire resort, including at its fine-dining venues like SW Steakhouse. “It’s a question of consistency,” he explains, “and about keeping up the very highest standards at all times.”

He’s a hands-on chef, not hidden away in an office, always happy to teach advanced techniques to his enthusiastic international team. He and they have worked hard to adapt some of their classic styles and recipes for Asian palates. “We offer eighteen kinds of ice cream at any one time, with thirty-six total on rotation, and all of them reflect local tastes. For instance, we created an almond cookie ice cream based on the classic Macau snack, and we also feature jasmine, green tea, chestnut, and red bean flavors.”

Even the percentage of sugar in cakes has been slightly reduced to reflect Asian

PRESENTED BY WYNN PALACE COTAI

Devoille’s inspired ice cream based on Macau’s famous almond cookies 主厨受澳门著名的杏仁饼启发而创作的冰淇淋

Executive Pastry Chef Christophe Devoille 行政糕点主厨 Christophe Devoille

preferences. Among the top favorites with customers are the lemon and yuzu pound cake and the irresistible gold leaf cake with chocolate and toasted almonds.

But the lusciousness doesn’t stop at Sweets. Adjacent to Fontana Buffet is Wynn Macaron, Devoille’s homage to one of France’s most beloved masterworks of pâtisserie. The elegant jewel-box boutique features a kaleidoscopic display of color, a dazzling array of exquisite meltin-the-mouth confections abounding in thirty-six flavors. Arranged on gold shelves, the dainty treasures of almond and egg white are nestled in gorgeous souvenir boxes, the perfect way for guests to take home with them a sweet little taste of the magic and glamour of Wynn Palace Cotai.

闪亮的大理石柜台贯穿五大区域，一个比 一个引人入胜。柜台分开两部分，一部分 是冰淇淋，另一部分是糖果店，「甜艺廊」 供应各式让人垂涎的蛋糕、雪糕、马卡龙 和窝夫，赏心悦目。纸杯蛋糕、甜筒冰淇 淋及朱古力草莓等多种孩提时代遐想的经 典甜点，以马赛克艺术形式跃然墙壁之上， 甜美可人，好像也可以吃进肚子一般。 而创作这个梦幻之地的正是全球最知 名的糕点师傅之一 Christophe Devoille，技 艺超凡。 他出身自法国史特拉斯堡，经 历丰富，在亚洲享负盛名。接受五年专业 训练后，他搬到纽约，担任法国鬼才大厨 Alain Ducasse 位于市中心的餐厅「La Côte Basque」( 现改名为 Benoit) 的糕点厨师。 两人愉快的长期合作关系也就此展开， Christophe 曾在 Ducasse 旗下多家米其林星 级餐厅短暂待过，像巴黎「Plaza Athénée」 及艾菲尔铁塔上的「Le Jules Verne」 ，之后 更获提拔成为 Ducasse 集团全球行政糕点主 厨。他过往的成就非凡，加上傲人经历，很 适合来到永利皇宫路氹迎接全新挑战。 两年半以来，他坐镇全亚洲设备最精良 的饼房，带领 35 人团队，把大量来自法国 及全球品质一流的产品变成各式原创糕点， 外观精美得让人舍不得品尝。所有东西都在 厨房从头做起，精致朱古力的内馅，包括杏 仁糖、甘纳许 ( 朱古力酱 ) 及夹心都由专业 团队一手包办。除此之外，主厨也负责监督 整个度假村的高级餐厅－包括永利扒房的糕 点生产。Christophe 强调 ： 「品质的一致性 正是关键所在，不管何时何地都要保持最高 标准。 」 他事必躬亲，不会一直坐在办公室里， 而是和充满热忱的国际团队分享所学，指

导技巧。他们花了许多心思改良经典糕点 及作法，以贴近亚洲口味 ： 「店里有 18 种 冰淇淋让客人选择，36 种口味轮流替换， 每一种都代表不同的地方风味。举例来说， 有款杏仁饼冰淇淋就是以澳门道地点心为 原型，另外还有茉莉、绿茶、栗子及红豆 等不同口味。 」 即便是蛋糕含糖比例也稍有减低，以迎 合亚洲客人的偏好。目前店内人气最高的甜 点为柠檬和柚子磅蛋糕，以及让人无法抵挡 的朱古力及烘烤杏仁金箔蛋糕。 美味可不止步于「甜艺廊」 ，邻近「咖 啡苑」入口的「永利马卡龙」也出自 Christophe 的手笔，是专为众人喜爱的法式精致 糕点打造的小天地。有如珠宝盒般的雅致店 面供应 36 种口味的马卡龙，五花八门，让 人看了目眩神迷，更别提那入口即化的甜蜜 口感。华丽的金色饰柜内，一颗颗以杏仁及 蛋白制成的可口珍宝置身于华贵的礼盒中， 让客人带回家后还能细细品评永利皇宫的甜 美魔幻及魅力。

Follow Wynn Palace on social media and discover more exclusive privileges 关注永利皇宮，发现更多独家优惠 永利皇宫 Wynn Palace Wynn Palace 永利皇宫 Wynn Palace

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PRESENTED BY VIC’S RESTAURANT

葡式风情 无边美味

Portuguese Comfort

A celebrated chef suffuses Vic’s Restaurante Português with the warmth and authenticity of his native cuisine.

DAVID HARTUNG

Whole Sea Bass Roasted in Figueira Salt Crust 盐烧新鲜海鲈

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Stuffed Atlantic Crab

Charcoal Grilled Sardines

Portuguese Style Roasted Pears in Red Oporto Wine

酿蟹盖

炭烧沙甸鱼

红酒煮啤梨

THE BREEZY TERRACE at Vic’s Restaurante Português at Rocks Hotel is a particularly gracious spot in Macau for lingering over a meal. The casual, unaffected ambiance is a major reason why Martinho Moniz, one of Asia’s most acclaimed Portuguese chefs, finds it so gratifying to be part of it. He believes the relaxed environment of Vic’s perfectly complements the character of his modern Portuguese cuisine. “To understand our gastronomic culture,” he explains, “you have to know how the Portuguese people eat.

They love to share dishes with each other

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伫立在澳门莱斯酒店「怡景葡国餐厅」 露台，感受徐徐吹来的微风，是在澳门 享 用 美 食 的 绝 佳 选 择。 随 性 氛 围 让 亚 洲 首 屈 一 指 的 葡 式 料 理 厨 师 Martinho Moniz 选择在此落脚，并以身为其中一 员为傲。在他看来，餐厅的惬意环境与 自己的现代葡式料理风格相辅相成。谈 到葡式美食文化，主厨强调 ： 「要知道 葡萄牙人是怎么吃的。他们喜欢在友善 轻松的环境中分享食物，享受家人及朋 友间那种单纯的快乐相当重要。」 Martinho 的家人以前在葡萄牙小村 镇 Barreira 待过很长时间。他回忆道 ： 「父

亲有时会带一条鲜鱼回家，热爱烘焙的母 亲会半哄半骗把我带进厨房，混和盐及面 团沾裹全鱼后放进烤箱。我们不会吃外层 的『面包』 ，由于水气闷在其中，鱼肉出 炉后富有嚼劲，相当多汁。 」孩提时期的 美味秘诀也成为现在餐厅招牌菜「盐烧新 鲜海鲈」的灵感来源。这道菜淋上精选 葡萄牙橄榄油，气味浓郁，令人食指大动， 搭配新鲜田园蔬菜上桌，相当诱人。 另一道菜也源自主厨住在葡萄牙海 边小镇时期的回忆－「香辣蕃茄煮蚬」， 成为海陆美味的完美结合 ： 「像现在较 为 温 和 的 季 节， 选 个 露 天 座 位 享 用 这

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

PRESENTED BY VIC’S RESTAURANT

Lobster Rice in Traditional Cataplana 龙虾饭

PRESENTED BY VIC’S RESTAURANT

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Martinho Moniz

Moniz is on a mission to bring the traditions of Portuguese comfort food to diners in Macau, and he insists that a chef must put heart into his work: “The real pleasures of good food don’t come from cleverly arranging

the most expensive ingredients in the world in small pieces on a plate. They come from beautiful ingredients prepared with devotion and from the joy of sharing the end result with the most important people in your life.”

ANTONY TANG

in surroundings that are friendly and informal. Appreciating the simple pleasures of life among family and friends is very important.”

Moniz fell in love with cooking at a young age when his family spent a lot of time in the little Portuguese village of Barreira. “When I was a kid,” he says, “my father would sometimes bring home a fresh fish, and my mother – who is very fond of baking – would coax me to cook it with her. We’d wrap it in a mixture of salt and dough and pop it in the oven. We didn’t eat the ‘bread’ of course, but as for the fish, the texture was beautifully firm and juicy because all the moisture was retained by the crust.” Today, Vic’s whole sea bass roasted in a crust of Figueira salt is inspired by Moniz’s childhood culinary discoveries. The dish is irresistibly aromatized by select Portuguese olive oil and served with fresh garden vegetables.

Another creation born from Moniz’s memories of living near the coast of Portugal is his Casa da Barreira-style stewed clams in tomato and chili, a satisfying combination of flavors from earth and sea. “During a mild season like right now, it’s wonderful to enjoy this kind of seafood dish al fresco with a glass of a fresh wine like a Vinho Verde. We give the clams a peppery touch with our own piri piri sauce made in-house. Other elements include coriander and lemon, which are really magical when it comes to enhancing the umami notes.”

Many locals are familiar with piri piri sauce; legend traces its origins to Portuguese navigators bringing chilies from Africa to Europe, from where the culture of savoring spicy foods spread to all the Portuguese colonies, including Macau. But another tradition that is truly indigenous to Portugal is the copious consumption of fresh seafood from the Atlantic. “Macanese cuisine,” says Moniz, “is treasured by many in this town, and it favors using the local variety for stuffed crab. But I prefer the softer, richer Atlantic crab with its intense flavor of the ocean.” The creamy flesh, sumptuous on the palate, is served with housemade garlicand-olive-oil croutons for an unforgettable seafood experience.

Chocolate Salami with Dried Fruits and Nuts

DAVID HARTUNG

巧克力沙拉米干果

类海鲜餐点，再搭配一杯新鲜葡萄酒－例 如绿酒，便再适合不过了。蛤蛎佐以餐厅 自制的 piri piri 辣酱，多了一丝辛辣口感， 芫 荽 及 柠 檬 等 食 材 也 各 司 其 职， 提 升 鲜 味。」当地人熟悉的 piri piri 辣酱可追溯至

葡萄牙航海时期，探险家把辣椒从非洲带 至欧洲，嗜辣文化也传遍包括澳门在内的 所有葡萄牙殖民地。 Martinho 以将正宗葡式「疗愈系美食」 呈现给澳门饕客为目标。他坚信身为厨师，

做菜一定要用心 ： 「烹调一流美食的快乐， 并不是把最昂贵的食材做成小份量的菜， 精致放在餐盘上而已 ；而是全神贯注准备 精美的材料，享受与生命中最重要的人分 享成果的喜悦。」 enchanted ingredients

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Linguini with Sicilian Red Prawns and Green Asparagus 西西里红虾配绿 芦笋扁意粉

Parmesan Risotto with Seared Baby Squids and Pesto Sauce 炙烧墨鱼青酱帕玛森炖饭

PRESENTED BY DINING CONCEPTS

当代经典美味绽放

be contemporary classic

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

Hong Kong’s conventional Italian cuisine gets a shake-up from a modern master.

ENRICO BARTOLINI is set for a banner year in 2017. Recently feted with a collective four stars among his restaurants by the latest edition of the Michelin Guide for Italy, the Tuscan-born maestro has now established his first outpost beyond the borders of his home country with the launch of Spiga in the heart of Central, Hong Kong.

To ensure the faithful execution of his “Be Contemporary Classic” philosophy, Bartolini has brought Giuseppe Carlucci to lead the kitchen. Carlucci was one of the original sous chefs on his team at Le Robinie, the restaurant where Bartolini earned his first Michelin star. And as is the case at all of his restaurants, Spiga’s culinary team explores classic Italian flavors and honors traditional recipes while gracing them with Bartolini’s inimitable modern style.

Linguini with prawns, for instance, a dish familiar all across Italy, is lifted to a higher plane under Bartolini’s deft direction. Sicilian red prawns are cooked with a light hand to bring out their natural sweetness and paired with vividly green asparagus for contrast in color, taste, and texture. In place of the typical à la minute sauce, an extra boost of flavor is injected with a reduction made from the heads and shells.

Bartolini is equally confident in putting forth novel creations that audaciously combine flavors and ingredients from every region of Italy and all around the world. In a signature dish newly minted in Hong Kong and soon to be introduced on his other restaurant menus, he brings together rice from Piedmont, basil from Liguria, and squid from Porto Santo Spirito for a fetchingly plated Parmesan risotto with seared cuttlefish and pesto sauce.

“We have great respect for tradition,” says Carlucci, “but we always give dishes our own touch. So many Italian restaurants in Hong Kong are all quite similar, but now people have an alternative and can taste what today’s Italy is eating.”

Crunchy Veal Cheek with Crispy Potatoes and Dijon Mustard Millefuille 爽脆小牛肉面颊配脆皮土豆第戎芥末千层酥 ← Head Chef Giuseppe Carlucci 主厨Giuseppe Carlucci

2017 年将是意大利托斯卡尼明星大厨 Enrico Bartolini 丰收的一年。根据最新 公布的意大利米其林指南，旗下餐厅总 共囊括四颗星星。他也将挥军海外，于 香港中环打造首家海外店「Spiga」。 为 了 贯 彻 自 己「 经 典 现 代 风 」 的 烹 饪 哲 学，Enrico 特 别 派 出 手 下 大 将 Giuseppe Carlucci 坐 镇 香 港 厨 房，Giuseppe 曾在「Le Robinie」团队担任二 厨，这里亦是 Enrico 获得首颗米其林星 星的餐厅。 就像 Enrico 其他餐厅一样， 「Spiga」团队也将以发掘经典意式风味 为宗旨，向传统作法致敬，同时注入 Enrico 独树一帜风格的崭新现代菜式 。 以意大利人再熟悉不过的家常菜鲜 虾意粉来说，在 Enrico 的妙手下美味 也提升至全新境界。西西里红虾经快煮 引出自然甜味，再搭配鲜绿芦笋，营造

颜色、味道及口感的鲜明对比。同时主 厨也别出心裁地以虾头及虾壳精华烹制 出丰郁浓酱，以取代一般上桌前才制作 的酱汁，让菜式层次更添浓郁细致。而 Enrico 另一自信演绎，就是大胆结合意 大利各区及世界各地不同的味道和食材 来创作全新菜色。在香港诞生的新菜「炙 烧墨鱼青酱帕玛森炖饭」有著精致如画 的摆盘，材料用上皮埃蒙特的米饭 、利 古里亚的罗勒以及 Santo Spirito 港直送的 墨鱼等丰富食材，令人食指大动，而菜 式不久后也将在集团其他餐厅推出。 Giuseppe 强 调 ： 「 对 于 传 统， 我 们 心存极大敬意，但每道菜都一定会加上 我们的特色。在香港的意大利餐厅普遍 非常相似，现在我们就带来了新的选择， 食客可有机会品尝意大利今天的崭新美 味。」 enchanted ingredients

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DOCUMENTARY

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美食大对决

food fight Top chefs from six Asian countries clash in all-in-good-fun combat for top honors. 每年，埃科菲国际厨师协会 (Disciples EsEACH YEAR, Disciples Escoffier Asia awards coffier Asia) 都会把代表亚洲至高荣誉的「埃 its esteemed Young Talent Trophy (YTT) to 科菲青年厨师大赛 (Young Talent Trophy)」 the chef who wins its Asia Final competition, 桂冠颁给脱颖而出的优胜者，而 2016 年的 held in 2016 at the Restaurant & Bar Hong 亚洲区决赛于香港餐饮展热烈登场。 Kong 2016 expo. 这次在八月赛程当中，埃科菲国际厨 But this time around, a bizarre new wrin师协会香港厨艺学院导师之一 Mike Lo 提 kle was added to the august proceedings: 了一个绝佳、同时异想天开的 Chef Mike Lo, an instructor at 构想 ：大赛期间对亚洲地区协 BY Hong Kong’s Institut Culinaire 会会长发战帖，邀请这些享誉 MAMIE CHEN Disciples Escoffier, came up 已久的大厨参与首次黑盒厨艺 with the brilliant/demented idea 大赛。厨艺界的巨头们将在满 PHOTOGRAPHY BY of instituting the first-ever Chef 场观众鼓噪声中一决高下，每 DAVID HARTUNG Battle between the presidents of 位大厨配有全功能工作台，包 the various Asian delegations to 括整套德国宝厨具、流理台以及装有神秘 the YTT competition, each one of them a 内容物的黑盒子。另外每人还配发量身打 renowned chef. 造的迷彩厨师袍，营造的无厘头气氛、相 The battleground for the clash of culi互击掌及放肆的笑闹声似乎也预示了所谓 nary titans, to be staged before an audience 的厨艺竞赛，实际是以比赛为名的一场大 goading them on, takes the form of fully 型同乐会。 functioning workstations, each complete 比赛在假号角声中揭开序幕，打开黑 with German Pool kitchen equipment, a 盒子，可见一只鸡、两个扇贝、李锦记蚝油、 sink, and a mysterious black box of unknown 总统牌牛油及奶油、法芙娜巧克力、俄罗 contents. As personalized chef jackets in 斯鱼子酱之家的鱼子酱、鸡蛋、芝麻油、 camo print are handed out to the contenders, 牛奶、草莓、胡萝卜等多种基本食材。主 the resulting hilarity, high fives, and irrever办人 Mike 宣布的比赛规则简单易懂 ：参 ent banter are clues that the ensuing Chef 赛者需在两小时内，利用黑盒内的食材准 Battle will be all-out war in name only. 备好包括前菜、主菜及甜点的三式套餐上 With fake fanfare, the black boxes are 桌，供评审品评。他还加码公布额外的惊 opened to reveal a chicken, two scallops, 喜规定 ：每支双人团队中，仅有一人能用 Lee Kum Kee oyster sauce, Président butter 刀，一人负责锅边烹调，意在极大压力下， and cream, Valrhona chocolate, caviar from 考验参赛厨师的速度、技巧及创意。 Russian Caviar House, eggs, sesame oil, 各家团队急忙讨论策略，需订定好几 milk, strawberries, carrots, potatoes, let个大方向 ：谁做主？谁当副厨？一道菜三 tuce, vinegar, and sundry other basics. The 份两个扇贝要怎么分？澳门队的 Raphael rules laid out by organizer Lo are clear and Kinimo 该做什么？鸡放了在哪？ simple: they will have two hours to prepare Raphael 等不及第二轮就往黑盒子里 and plate three servings each of a starter, a 偷瞄，刚刚才收到形式上的口头申诫 ；另 main, and a dessert for the judges to sample, 一 方 面， 中 国 队 不 翼 而 飞 的 鸡 也 在 菲 律 using only the ingredients supplied in the

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box. In another cruel twist, Lo announces that only one chef of each competing pair may use the knives and only one may cook at the stovetop. The goal is to test the chefs’ speed, skill, and creativity under unrelenting pressure.

The pairs huddle to strategize and answer some fundamental questions: Who will take the lead and who will be the commis? How should we manipulate the two scallops to

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make three servings of a dish? What is Team Macau’s Raphael Kinimo doing here, and where did our chicken go?

Kinimo is dispatched with a mock admonishment against sneaking a peek into the black box before his own second-round turn, and Team China’s missing chicken is restored from Team Philippine’s secret hiding place. With a reminder that the clock is ticking, hijinks subside as the chefs tackle the tasks at hand.

Vincent Leroux wields Team Hong Kong’s knives and begins deboning a chicken, while Team China’s Timothy Goddard improvises a meat tenderizer by covering his fowl in cellophane and pounding it with a saucepan.

South Korea’s Sooyoung Yang pulls out a pair of tweezers to finesse sliced blueberries atop the chicken breast.

Toward the end of the second round, Team Singapore race to get their desserts

DOCUMENTARY

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DOCUMENTARY

to the judges. Sandro Falbo asks Jeremy Yeung, the young Hong Kong chef acting as commis, to hand-whip the cream as if his life depends on it, solemnly vowing to hire him on at his restaurant in Singapore if they manage to beat the clock.

Despite, or perhaps because of, the stress, the competitors continue to entertain the audience and themselves. During a quiet interlude, Team China’s David Jean Marteau crosses into Team Hong Kong’s workspace to dab sweat from Leroux’s

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face. Philip John Golding, the sitting president of the Philippines delegation and acting commis for his team, washes a pot and laughs when the MC asks if he can remember the last time he had to do that in a professional kitchen. On break later, he shares a sip of wine with the still-hustling Kinimo.

As time is called, the teams celebrate with embraces, fist bumps, and more than a few glasses of wine. The final results? Yeung can start packing his bags for Singapore.

宾 队 的 秘 密 藏 匿 处 所 寻 获。 不 过 随 着 大 会 宣 布 时 间 所 剩 无 几， 大 厨 们 也 开 始 停 止 嬉 闹， 专 注 于 眼 前 的 工 作。 只 见 香 港 队持刀的 Vincent Leroux 开始把鸡去骨， 中国队 Timothy Goddard 则发挥想象力， 把鸡用玻璃纸裹住后用平底锅敲打，要把 肉拍软。南韩队 Sooyoung Yang 拿起一对 镊子，直接把蓝莓切片往鸡胸上摆，动作 相当灵巧。 接 近 第 二 轮 尾 声 时， 新 加 坡 队 正 和 时 间 赛 跑， 急 着 把 甜 点 奉 给 评 审 品 尝。 Sandro Falbo 央求副手、年轻的香港厨师 Jeremy Yeung 用尽所有力量打发奶油，并 提出若能赶在时间前完成就要延揽这年轻 人到他的新加坡餐厅工作。 尽管气氛极为高压，参赛者们不断有 好 玩 的 举 动 上 演， 对 彼 此 及 观 众 来 说 都 娱乐性十足。中场休息时，中国队 David Jean Marteau 突然一个箭步往香港队工作 台，擦掉 Vincent 脸上的汗 ；担任副手的 菲 律 宾 协 会 现 任 会 长 Philip John Golding 锅子洗到一半被主持人问及上次在厨房洗 碗是何时不禁失声大笑，之后休息时他还 去找忙到分身乏术的 Raphael，硬要分他一 口酒喝。 时间一到，团队们互相拥抱、击拳、 大口饮酒庆祝。最后结果如何呢？好消息， Jeremy 可以准备收拾行李去新加坡了！

Marinara Risotto, by Alessandro Salvatore Rapisarda, Italy

Marinated and Hay-Smoked Salmon, Garden Vegetables, Rocket, Green Apple, Ginger Sauce, Condiments, and Flowers, by Anne-Sophie Taurines, Switzerland

意式蕃茄炖饭

烟熏三文鱼配田园蔬菜，火箭菜，青苹果，姜酱和鲜花

料理界的未来

the future of food Twenty young talents from around the world are mentored in a challenging competition that fosters the best in modern cuisine.

Quiltamal, by Daniel Nates, Latin America

Whole Turbot, by George Kataras, UK and Ireland

墨西哥菜式「Quiltamal」

多宝鱼

COURTESY OF S.PELLEGRINO (4)

COMPETITION

WISPY CLOUDS catch against the mounconvention hall in stylish Milan, two tain peaks of this lyrically beautiful hours’ distance from San Pellegrino Terme. northern Italian town, a place which for They’ve come to the homeland of the illuscenturies has drawn health-seekers to luxtrious water as sole representatives of their uriate in scenery fragrant with firs, breathe regions to compete in the Grand Final of S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2016. crystalline air, and take the waters of its famous thermal springs. San Pellegrino The finalists are to cook their signature Terme is the proud source of a particudishes before a Grand Jury made up of larly prestigious natural mineral water, the Seven Sages, a panel of internationally S.Pellegrino, once available only to those acclaimed chefs whose backgrounds and who could travel to the spa, but enjoyed current restaurants glitter with a consteltoday by millions of devotees lation of Michelin stars. And BY around the world. in their preparations for the LUCY MORGAN The brand, which began Grand Final, each of the young its life as a health cure, has chefs has been under the guidevolved to assume its place in over a ance of one of twenty mentors, a group of hundred and thirty countries as an essencelebrated and highly experienced chefs tial part of global fine dining. And now from around the world who provide genit extends its influence on gastronomy erous quantities of wisdom, advice, and by recognizing the superstar chefs of moral support. tomorrow. The S.Pellegrino Young Chef “I’m excited to pass on my knowlcompetition, born in 2015, is an interedge,” says Steven Liu, mentor for China national talent-scouting project to find finalist Chang Liu. “This is an excellent the top young chef in the world. Open to stage for leveraging the talents of young qualified participants age thirty or younger, chefs. As mentors, we have to step back a bit because they’re the stars here.” Juror the 2016 competition attracted over three Gaggan Anand admires the close alliance thousand applicants from twenty designated geographic regions. that’s apparent between contestants and Contestants began their journey by mentors: “The chefs’ world is sometimes submitting online applications featuring cruel and can squash you like a melon. their signature dishes, which were then It’s like a jungle where only the strongest judged on five specific criteria known as survive. But here, with their amazing menthe Golden Rules: Ingredients, Skills, tors, these young chefs are being expertly nurtured and will learn so much.”

Genius, Beauty, and Message. Ten candidates were chosen to compete in each Undeniably eager and excited, the of twenty regional finals held around competitors are perhaps also a bit nervous the globe, and the resulting twenty winin the presence of last year’s winner, Mark ners have now assembled in a modern Moriarty from Ireland, with his glamorous

如诗如画的北意小城山峦边傍着缕缕白云， 数百年来吸引着想改善自身健康的旅人前 来徜徉于草木蓊郁、充满冷杉气息的美景， 呼吸清澈空气，并一尝当地著名地热泉制 成的矿泉水。其中以 San Pellegrino Terme 圣培露镇产地命名的「S.Pellegrino ( 圣培 露 )」天然气泡矿泉水最负盛名，一度仅有 亲临该地温泉区的游客得以品尝，如今则 是备受全球数百万爱好者钟爱的饮品。 最早以健康饮品起家的「圣培露」天 然气泡矿泉水，现已销往全球超过 130 个 国家，成为高级餐饮界不可或缺的一部分， 目前更将触角伸及美食界，挖掘未来的超 级明星大厨，自 2015 年起开始举办国际「圣 培露年轻厨师大赛」，邀集世界各地 30 岁 或更年轻的顶尖青年厨师同场竞技。 2016 年大赛盛况空前，收到来自 20 个分区域的 超过 3000 人报名。 参赛者需先在网络报名，附上自己的 招牌菜色介绍，再经食材、厨艺、独特性、 美感及概念传达五大黄金法则予以评选。 全球 20 个分区各选出 10 位厨师进入区域 决赛，各区脱颖而出的 20 位冠军将在离圣 培露镇两小时车程的时尚之都米兰现代大 会堂聚首，作为各区唯一代表参加 2016 年 「圣培露年轻厨师大赛」总决赛，在知名气 泡矿泉水诞生的国度里一决高下。 决赛评审团由大有来历的七大厨艺界 巨子所组成，他们过往的经历及目前坐镇 的餐厅可说是米其林繁星闪耀，参赛者要 在他们面前烹调自己的拿手好菜。决赛之 前，大会还安排参赛者接受二十位来自世 界各地名气响亮、经验丰富的导师个别指 导，分享人生智慧、提供建议、支持打气。 导师之一刘一帆很开心能指导代表中 国的参赛者刘畅 ： 「我迫不及待要分享我的 所知所学。这个平台很棒，可以让年轻厨 师有机会大放异彩，导师也该往后一步， enchanted ingredients

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COMPETITION

“I’ve met all these famous chefs from around the world, and it’s like a dream.

能够见到许多全球大名鼎鼎的厨师真的就像做梦一般。”

Matteo Zonarelli is mentored by Jacques Reymond, Northeast Asia team 东北亚区冠军 Matteo Zonarelli 由 Jacques Reymond 指导

tales of traversing the globe. Moriarty has spent the last twelve months developing his skills and making invaluable connections in the international culinary community.

Beyond the prospect of the ultimate prize – inheriting Moriarty’s crown – the finalists are also taking full advantage of their golden

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opportunity to interact with so many chefs at different stages in their careers, from fellow competitors to accomplished mentors to the stellar Seven Sages. “I’ve met all these famous chefs from around the world,” says Northeast Asia finalist Matteo Zonarelli, “and it’s like a dream.” Will Meyrick, mentor

to Southeast Asia finalist Tarun Bhatia, also recognizes the benefits of mutual exchange: “It’s not really about who wins today, it’s about meeting all the other chefs and forming a network. That wouldn’t happen without S.Pellegrino bringing us together.”

The smallness of the culinary world is apparent from the international character of a number of the teams. Northeast Asia, for example, is represented by an Italian chef who has been working in Macau and is mentored by a Frenchman who lives in Australia.

The finalist for France is originally from Japan, but now works in Paris, and the China finalist, although originally from China, is on staff at a restaurant in Milan. “Seeing the world is incredibly important for developing your palate,” explains Steven Liu. “I spend at least six months a year traveling and tasting, tasting, tasting. The brain is like a sponge that absorbs flavor data as you taste. Later, we can retrieve that information and apply it in our cooking. My advice to all chefs is to travel as much as you can.”

The S.Pellegrino Young Chef competition has become a forum for cultural exchange, one where culinary ideas and gastronomic innovations are investigated, experimented with, and shared. The range of signature dishes presented at the final reveals an astonishing breadth of ingredients, flavor combinations, presentation, vision, and historical context. The young chefs absorb everything, constantly comparing notes, sampling each other’s dishes, and intensely discussing techniques. Finalist for France Shintaro Awa, who was mentored by renowned French chef Yannick Alléno, will be taking home a lot: “It’s magnificent being here and sharing experiences with the other candidates. It’s much more than a rivalry to show whose country is better – it’s a group effort to advance gastronomy.”

It might seem an impossible task to judge between dishes that are so radically different. Matteo Zonarelli’s, for instance, is an elegantly simple plate of veal sweetbreads, celeriac, and hazelnuts presented

COURTESY OF S.PELLEGRINO

MATTEO ZONARELLI, NORTHEAST ASIA FINALIST

Matteo Zonarelli’s Sweetbread, Celeriac, and Hazelnuts (Northeast Asia)

COURTESY OF S.PELLEGRINO

Matteo Zonarelli－小牛胸腺、根芹菜与榛果三重奏(东北亚)

让年轻人有所表现，毕竟他们才是主角。」 评审之一 Gaggan Anand 也乐于看到导师及 参赛者之间的紧密联系 ： 「厨师的世界有时 相当残酷，很容易把人压垮，也像丛林游 戏一样，只有最强的人能活下来。但这个 比赛安排了经历无可挑剔的导师，年轻厨 师们在他们的专业指导下成长，可以学到 很多东西。」 参赛者们毫无疑问相当兴奋，也势在 必得，不过想到要跟随去年总冠军 Mark Moriarty 的步伐想必也会有点紧张。Mark Moriarty 来 自 爱 尔 兰， 过 去 12 个 月 足 迹 踏遍世界各地，持续精益求精，和国际料 理界建立良好的关系，留下许多为人津津 乐 道 的 故 事。 除 了 要 在 总 决 赛 登 顶， 接 下 Mark 的冠冕，参赛者们也把握这个绝 佳机会和各位处于不同生涯阶段的厨师互

动，包括其他参赛者、厨艺炉火纯青的导 师以及登峰造极的七大厨艺界巨子。东北 亚区冠军 Matteo Zonarelli 便兴奋分享 ： 「能 够见到许多全球大名鼎鼎的厨师真的就像 做梦一般。」负责指导东南亚区冠军 Tarun Bhatia 的 Will Meyrick 则 是 强 调 透 过 比 赛 相互交流的重要性。他说 ： 「最后谁赢不是 关键，重点是和其他厨师见面，建立合作 的网络，要是没有圣培露这个平台是不可 能的。」 料理世界其实很小，没什么距离，从 大赛多个分区团队的国际化程度可见一斑。 以东北亚区来说，冠军来自意大利，在澳 门工作，接受住在澳洲的法国名厨指导。 法国区冠军是在巴黎工作的日本厨师 ；中 国区冠军虽然来自中国，但目前是米兰当 地餐厅厨师团队的一员。 刘一帆指出 ： 「想

维持味觉敏锐度就一定要游历世界，我一 年至少花六个月旅行，不断品尝新味道， 一试再试。大脑就像海绵一直吸收与味道 相关的资料，成为味觉记忆。之后可以从 脑中调取资料，运用在做菜上。我给所有 厨师的建议就是去旅行吧，越多越好。」 圣培露年轻厨师大赛已是文化交流的 盛事之一，大家在此探讨、分享烹饪想法 及美味创新发想，共同尝试，付诸实行。 决赛登场的各式招牌菜范围之广，包括食 材运用、味道组合、摆盘呈现、概念想法 和历史脉络的丰富及多元，实在让人惊艳。 年轻的厨师们将眼前所见纳入所学，比对 彼此的笔记，相互试菜，讨论技巧，乐此 不疲。由法国名厨 Yannick Alléno 指导的法 国区代表 Shintaro Awa 收获极大，他兴奋 表示 ： 「能晋升总决赛，和其他参赛者分享 enchanted ingredients

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Carlo Cracco Ristorante Cracco, Milan, Italy

Elena Arzak Arzak, San Sebastián, Spain

Wylie Dufresne WD-50 (now closed), New York, U.S.A

Seven Sages

Gaggan Anand Gaggan, Bangkok, Thailand

An international competition of the caliber of S.Pellegrino Young Chef requires a judging panel of the highest stature, and for SPYC 2016, the difficult task of awarding the title to just one young chef was assigned to seven renowned jurors.

Each one a superstar chef on the global culinary scene, they collectively hold a remarkable number of accolades. The panel was named the Seven Sages to reflect the reserves of wisdom and experience they’ve gained over the course of their highly successful gastronomic careers, assets which perfectly qualified them to decide the fate of the SPYC Grand Finalists.

Tasting their way through twenty exceptional signature dishes, the Seven Sages chose just three of the competitors to cook for them again before deciding on the ultimate champion, Mitch Lienhard of the USA.

Mauro Colagreco Mirazur, Menton, France

「圣培露年轻厨师大赛」参赛者的厨艺需要由 具资格而且高质素的平台来评审。在 2016 年 大赛，七位蜚声国际的名厨担起了这项艰巨 任务，决定这项大赛的桂冠谁属。这七位富 有名气的大厨被称为「七大厨艺界巨子」 。作 为大赛评审，多年来收获的荣耀让他们当之 无愧，而他们的决定也将会影响参赛者的命 Roberta Sudbrack Restaurante Roberta Sudbrack, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

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运。最后七大厨艺界巨子挑选了三位参赛者 继续比赛，最后万中挑一，选出美国区代表

Mitch Lienhard 为总决赛冠军。

David Higgs Restaurant Five Hundred, Saxon Hotel, Johannesburg, South Africa

COMPETITION

“It’s not really about who wins today, it’s about meeting all the other chefs and forming a network.

最后谁赢不是关键，重点是和其他厨师见面，建立合作的网络。”

COURTESY OF S.PELLEGRINO (9)

WILL MEYRICK, MENTOR FOR SOUTHEAST ASIA FINALIST TARUN BHATIA

Shintaro Awa’s Air-Cured Mackerel with Potatoes (France)

Chang Liu’s dish, Union (China)

Shintaro Awa－腌青花鱼佐马铃薯(法国)

刘畅－Union (中国)

with clean geometric lines, neutral colors, and minimal ingredients, while China finalist Chang Liu’s dish, called Union, includes a large number of China’s finest traditional regional ingredients in a colorful presentation with a modern aesthetic. Juror Carlo Cracco, asked how the judging process can work across such a range of cooking styles and ingredients, explains: “It’s simple. Don’t judge the region, judge the taste. If the taste is amazing, then it’s amazing, and it’s not important if it’s Chinese, Indian, or American.” And, according to Gaggan Anand, it’s also essential for the jurors to keep an open mind: “I take it dish by dish, person by person. My advice would be not to try to impress us – let the food be the hero.”

The young chefs prepare their dishes over the course of two days, presenting them one by one to the Seven Sages. The

original twenty finalists are narrowed down to the top three, who are required to cook again on the third day. Shintaro Awa for France creates a beautiful reinterpretation of a rustic French dish of mackerel and potatoes, Mitch Lienhard of the USA prepares a dish of roast duck and spiced yams with flavor notes inspired by nostalgia for autumn in his home state of Michigan, and David Andrés, representing Spain and Portugal, presents a delicate combination of baby lamb meat, sheep’s milk, and artichoke pistils. The Seven Sages retire to deliberate long and hard before announcing the winner: USA finalist Mitch Lienhard, mentored by Dominique Crenn. “I feel like I’ve prepared for this moment,” says Lienhard, “but I don’t feel like I’ve prepared for this moment – I’m ecstatic.”

All twenty finalists have demonstrated

经验真的太棒了。说是彼此对决看谁的国 家厉害，倒不如说是集体合作，让美食及 烹饪更精进。」 比赛中的每道菜色都有极大差异，要 评断孰优孰劣简直是不可能的任务。像是 Matteo Zonarelli 的小牛胸腺、根芹菜与榛 果三重奏带着简单的几何线条、走中性色 调，食材极简 ；对比中国区冠军刘畅的招 牌菜「Union」－中国各区最顶级传统食材 荟萃，综合了多彩摆盘及现代美感。问到 评审如何在这么多运用不同烹饪风格及食 材的创作菜色中做出抉择，Carlo Cracco 说 明： 「简单。不要评地区，评味道。味道很棒， 那就对了，无关乎来自中国、印度或是美 国。」Gaggan Anand 也 强 调， 评 审 要 持 开 放的态度： 「对我来说，菜就是菜，人就是人， 不会混在一起。建议参赛者不要刻意突出 自己来让评审留下印象－食物才是主角。」 年轻厨师们有两天时间准备菜色，一 道一道呈给七大巨子品尝，再从 20 位参 赛者中选出最后三位，于第三天继续比赛。 enchanted ingredients

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Dominique Crenn and Mitch Lienhard, USA 导师 Dominique Crenn 和美国区冠军 Mitch Lienhard

focus, nerve, imagination, and skill in the kitchen, but there are, of course, nineteen who haven’t won the title. They nevertheless all agree that the experience has been something exceptional: “I loved it,” says Matteo Zonarelli. “It has been the most incredible time. I’ve met some amazing people and I’ll stay in touch with them for sure.”

Several of the mentors offer the wisdom of experience: “Life is a competition,” says Steven Liu, “and in our job, if you can create a phenomenal dish and win over a customer, then you’re winning.” Will Meyrick observes, “You’re judged every day in the kitchen.” And Northeast Asia mentor Jacques Reymond agrees: “People are very critical of you as a chef – the guests, the media. You’re constantly judged. And chefs are perfectionists, so you critique both yourself and the people you work with. You need to be very strong, mentally and physically.”

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According to mentor Jacques Reymond, the culinary scene has changed immeasurably over the last three decades, and it has become at once easier and more challenging to be a chef today: “The hours are shorter, the pay is better, the equipment and technology has advanced so much – it’s wonderful to see. But now it’s really difficult to start a restaurant – honestly, you need a vast amount of money. Customers seem less interested in the food and more interested in the design, the music, the style. And it’s difficult to find staff, because young people are not as keen to work with their hands and do this sort of job. We need motivation. We need competitions like this to show young people that being a chef is a great career – you’ll never lack for job offers and you can travel the world.”

Gaggan Anand seems convinced: “Why wasn’t S.Pellegrino Young Chef around when I was younger?”

法国区 Shintaro Awa 重新诠释法国地道乡 村菜青花鱼佐马铃薯 ；美国区 Mitch Lienhard 以家乡密西根州的深秋美食记忆为灵 感，呈上香烤鸭肉及地瓜 ；代表西班牙及 葡萄牙的 David Andrés 则用羔羊肉、羊奶 及朝鲜蓟雌蕊创作出精美的菜色。七大厨 艺界巨子花了许多时间及心力讨论，最终 选出总决赛冠军 ：由 Dominique Crenn 指 导的美国区代表 Mitch Lienhard 夺冠。他 激动表示： 「为了这一刻我已经准备很久了， 但又觉得来的有点措手不及，我开心的要 飞起来了。」 20 位参赛者都展现了专注力、胆量、 想像力及烹饪技巧，虽然有 19 位厨师未能 拿下大奖赛的头衔，但他们一致同意此次 经验相当宝贵。Matteo Zonarelli 强调 ： 「真 的很享受，这是我人生中最不可思议的一 段时光。我认识了一些绝顶厉害的人，也 一定会继续保持联络。」 多位导师也无私分享多年经验累积的 智慧。刘一帆说 ： 「人生就是一场比赛，以 厨师的工作来说，能够端出一道众人叫好 的菜，让客人倾心那就赢了。 」Will Meyrick 分享他的观察心得 ： 「在厨房，无时无 刻都有人在评断你做得好不好。」东北亚导 师 Jacques Reymond 也心有戚戚 ： 「大家都 以非常严格的眼光来看厨师，客人或媒体 都是，每天活在他人评断之中。厨师是完 美主义者，审视自己以及一起合作的团队， 心理以及身体都要非常强健才行。」 导 师 Jacques Reymond 分 析， 料 理 界 过去 30 年经历翻天覆地的变化，现在要 当厨师，一方面更容易，但挑战也更为艰 巨： 「工时较短、薪水比以前好，厨房设备 及科技也进展许多－这些都非常好。不过， 要开餐厅真的很难，说坦白一点，真的要 有很多钱才行。比起食物，客人好像对于 设计、音乐及整体风格更有兴趣。年轻人 对于这种要用自己双手、劳心劳力的工作 有点提不起劲，要找人也不容易。我们需 要动力，需要这种赛事让年轻人看到当厨 师的前景及生涯－工作永远接不完，还可 以环游世界。」Gaggan Anand 似乎很吃这 一套 ： 「为什么年轻的时候没有圣培露年轻 厨师大赛呢？」

COURTESY S. PELLIGRINO (2)

COMPETITION

“I feel like I’ve prepared for this moment, but I don’t feel like I’ve prepared for this moment – I’m ecstatic. 为了这一刻我已经准备很久了，但又觉得来 的有点措手不及，我开心的要飞起来了。” MITCH LIENHARD, U.S.A FINALIST

Mitch Lienhard’s Roasted Duck with Spiced Orange and Yam (USA) Mitch Lienhard－香烤鸭肉佐调味香橙及地瓜(美国)

Carlo Cracco

经验传承

sage advice CULINARY MAESTRO Carlo Cracco believes that travel is one of the best ways to breathe new life into his art form. He recently dazzled guests with his one-of-a-kind culinary approach at a dinner organized by Longino & Cardenal and hosted by chef Pino Lavarra at two-Michelin-star Tosca.

Cracco’s cooking, often described as “contemporary Italian,” is based on raw materials from across Italy’s countryside, frequently enlivened by unexpected ideas or unusual ingredients picked up on his global travels.

“My cuisine is very personal,” he explains. “I try to express my own taste and experiences in a dish, but I also love to see surprise on my guests’ faces.”

In Cracco’s opinion, travel broadens the palate as well as the mind, and he feels the S.Pellegrino Young Chef competition provides a great opportunity for participants

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to experience that firsthand. “Traveling is a major font of inspiration,” he explains, “and nowadays, with so many international food festivals and competitions, meeting other chefs and understanding new cultures has become a very helpful way for chefs to develop new tastes and techniques.”

Although Cracco demands the highest standards from SPYC competitors, he paradoxically advises against perfectionism.

“When you’re young, you seek perfection in technique and also in aesthetics. These are important things, but if you focus on them too much, you risk losing harmony in a dish. The most important thing to remember when cooking is that your dish should be balanced.” When asked how a young chef can find that balance, Cracco laughs loudly before responding, “With experience!”

Establishing perfect equilibrium in culinary

execution is something, he believes, that grows quietly inside a chef with every dish cooked and served, until it becomes an instinctive part of the artist himself.

Above all, Cracco is adamant that the essential ingredient in every chef ’s kitchen should be genuine devotion to the job. But how can the art of cooking be truly rewarding when its achievements, unlike those of painting, literature, or music, disappear so quickly after they are created, even though producing a great dish requires an equal degree of talent, skill, and effort? “Being a chef is such hard work,” he replies. “You can succeed only if you’re in love with your work. Developing a dish can take hours, days, months. It’s our job to create something exceptional, something memorable, precisely because the act of eating is over in just a few moments.”

CHICO DE LUIGI – ALTA

Lucy Morgan meets with one of the illustrious Seven Sages of the S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2016 competition to glean his wise counsel for young chefs.

FEATURE

Milk Chocolate, Lentils and Peas

ROBERTO SAMMARTINI (LEFT ), COURTESY OF CRACCO (RIGHT )

牛奶巧克力配扁豆及豌豆

料理大师 Carlo Cracco 深信旅行最能为厨 艺形式注入新生命，他最近在香港米其林 二星的 Tosca 餐厅大显身手，为由 Longino & Cardenal 举办，主厨 Pino Lavarra 主理的 晚宴客席掌厨，让用餐客人感受到他别出 心裁的烹饪技巧。Carlo 的厨艺素有「当代 意式料理」的美名，善于从意大利乡间广 泛选用新鲜食材及旅经各国发现的特殊配 料，再运用创意巧思，让料理变得活色生香： 「我的料理风格独树一帜，试着将自己对料 理的品味和经验表达出来，也喜欢看到客 人脸上惊喜的表情。」 Carlo 认为，旅行能够拓展味觉和充 实心灵，也觉得「圣培露年轻厨师大赛」 （下

Chocolate Dessert, Capers and Taggiasca Olive 巧克力甜品配刺山柑及意大利橄榄

称大赛）是参赛者获得亲身体验的大好机 会： 「旅行是启迪灵感的泉源，何况现今 经常举办国际大赛和庆典活动，厨师常能 遇到其他厨师、了解异国文化，也能借此 机会培养新的品味和诀窍。」 尽管 Carlo 对这次大赛的参赛者有极 高的要求，他却劝告他们别追求完美 ： 「年 轻人总爱追求技巧和美学上的完美，当然 两者是很重要，但当你过份专注于这两件 事时，便可能让一道料理失去和谐的美感。 应该牢牢记住的是，烹饪的要点在于让每 道菜都达到平衡。」那么年轻厨师该如何找 到平衡？ Carlo 放声大笑后说 ： 「经验最重 要！」他深信达成烹饪的完美平衡绝非易

事，那是厨师经年累月烹调出一道又一道 菜肴，手艺在不知不觉间成熟，无需多想 便能举手间创作出美味料理。 但 Carlo 认为，厨房里最重要的东西 便是厨师对工作的热情。烹饪与绘画、文 学或音乐不同，是稍纵即逝的艺术，烹饪 成果一经创造出来，很快消失不见。然而 端出好料理需要同样的天分、技巧和心血。 被问到如何从烹饪中获得成就感？他答道 ： 「当厨师很不容易，唯有真心爱这份工作才 能成功。设计一道菜需要花几小时、几天、 甚至几个月的时间，但正是因为吃这项动 作，几分钟内就结束了，因此我们的职责 是创造出非比寻常、令人难忘的料理。」 enchanted ingredients

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完美窝夫

perfect on its own A determined couple introduce Macau to Belgium’s tastiest street treat.

WHEN JEREMY AND MAGGIE ARTAN began searching Macau for an authentic Belgian waffle, they came up empty-handed. “We couldn’t find anything that remotely resembled a true Belgian waffle,” says Maggie.

“Nothing was comparable, and with every one

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we tried, we found the focus was on what was put on top of it instead of the waffle itself.”

The only solution, they decided, was to make their own. “We had the crazy idea that we could introduce the best Belgian waffles to Macau,” says Jeremy. “The one that really

reminds me of my childhood is the Liège waffle, something you find on every street corner and at every market in Belgium.”

The Liège waffle was born in the eighteenth century when the city’s prince-bishop challenged his chef to create a pastry that was as tender as it was crunchy. The result was Liège dough – not batter. Denser and sweeter than that of ordinary waffles, it is filled with chunks of pearl sugar that sear into a sweet caramelized crust when baked in a cast iron press.

“I love to cook,” says Jeremy, “and Maggie loves to eat, so we thought we’d try it ourselves. We worked together with professional

TASTING NEWS

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

Jeremy and Maggie Artan

Belgian chefs and worked on the recipe and techniques for five months until we made it perfect.” The dough is handmade every day in their central kitchen, risen and rolled into balls, and delivered raw to each of their stands, where it is cooked fresh to order. “The most important thing for us is that it be traditional and authentic,” says Maggie. “To be true to the original, we have to make sure our ingredients are noble. There are no shortcuts and no substitutes are used – only the best butter, natural yeast, and the very rare pearl sugar imported from Belgium.”

It’s the little nibs of this opaque white

beet sugar that give the Liège waffle its distinct golden-brown coloring. Embedded into the dough during the final rise, the sugary pearls soften under the heat of the iron, creating luscious pockets of sweetness throughout the waffle.

With the perfect recipe in hand, Maggie and Jeremy had only to find the perfect location for their waffles. “It’s a street food,” says Jeremy, “so we want to be in places that have a lot of people passing by. Broadway at Galaxy Macau was a great place for us to start – it’s an authentic recreation of a street-market environment, so it’s perfect for a waffle

Jeremy Artan 及 Maggie Artan 夫妇曾试着在 澳门寻找正宗比利时窝夫，结果一无所获。 Maggie 表示 ： 「我们找不到任何跟真正比 利时窝夫扯得上边的点心，真的完全没有。 目前为止，几乎都以铺在面上的配料为主， 窝夫沦为配角。」 有见于此，夫妻二人决定唯一解决就 是自行开创。 Jeremy 回想当时 ： 「心里萌 生疯狂的想法，想要把最棒的比利时窝夫 引进澳门，即是比利时街角及市场皆可见、 也是儿时的美好回忆－烈日格子窝夫。」 烈日窝夫最早可追溯回 18 世纪，城市 的王子给厨子下了道难题，下令要造出吃 到兼具柔软及酥脆口感的点心，成品促成 烈日面团的诞生，而非常见的面糊。烈日 enchanted ingredients

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TASTING NEWS

stand.” Next, Jeremy and Maggie set up in ParknShop supermarket, just on the other side of the registers, where the smell of the freshly baked waffles wafts into the aisles and stops shoppers in their tracks. “It’s very much a mutually beneficial arrangement,” says Maggie. “The smell of the waffles draws people in, and we’re there for a tasty snack when they’ve finished their shopping.”

Adds Jeremy, “With commonly found

waffles, there’s little regard for the waffle itself – they’re just a base, and it’s all about the toppings, chocolate, or fruit. The Liège waffle is perfect on its own.” While the toppings the Artans offer their customers are exceptional, Jeremy, like most of his fellow countrymen, prefers to savor the treat’s pure flavor and beloved texture by enjoying them plain. “The big difference with the Liège waffle is that the waffle is the star.”

Luscious nibs of pearl sugar are caramelized by the hot press

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

晶莹剔透的比利时珍珠糖在高温下慢慢融化

窝夫比起一般窝夫味道更香甜，质地更稠 密，面团和着珍珠糖，放入铸铁烤盘出炉 后便形成金黄松脆焦糖。 Jeremy 笑着说 ： 「我喜欢下厨，Maggie 爱吃，索性就自己动手。两人找了专业比 利时厨师一起合作，花了五个月的时间钻 研煮法及技术，终于大功告成。」面团每日 在中央厨房手工制作、发酵、捏成小球后 直送到各个摊位，现点现做。 Maggie 强调， 一切都以传统及道地口味为依归 ： 「为了忠 于原味，每种成分都不得马虎。不走任何 捷径，也不用任何替代品－ 这里只采用品 质最好的奶油、天然酵母，以及数量稀少、 比利时直送的珍珠糖。」 此种不透明的白色甜菜糖角色相当重 要，它们让列日窝夫带著独特的金黄色泽。 糖在最后一次发酵时和进面团中 , 在铸铁盘 的热度下溶和，一颗颗糖珠结晶软化 , 成为 窝夫上甜沁的美味点缀。 有了完美的窝夫食谱在手 , 剩下的就

是找到黄金发售地点了。 Jeremy 指出 ： 「毕 竟是街头小吃，我们希望找个熙来攘往的 地方。澳门银河的百老汇美食街充满街边 市集风味，是休闲的好去处，窝夫小摊开 在这里再适合不过。」 另一地点则为百佳超级市场 , 位于收 银台附近的位置绝佳，新鲜现烤的窝夫香 气在走道四散飘去，让客人不禁停下脚步， 闻香而来。 Maggie 兴奋表示 ： 「窝夫香气 可以吸引客人进来，购物后来份美味的点 心尝尝 , 对店家和我们来说是双赢的局面。」 Jeremy 一旁补充说道 ： 「一般常见的窝 夫，对窝夫本身甚少着重，只是当个衬底， 重点是上面的配料、朱古力或水果，烈日 窝夫则是自成一格，单吃就很棒。」夫妻 俩准备的配料滋味也是好得没话说，不过 Jeremy 就像许多比利时同乡一样，还是喜 欢不加料单吃窝夫，享用窝夫纯粹的味道 以及让人着迷的口感 ： 「烈日窝夫的不同之 处在于－窝夫本身就是主角。」 enchanted ingredients

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WINE MASTER

flying above the clouds In 2013, Bordeaux native Maxence Dulou capped a globe-spanning career in viticulture and winemaking by moving with his family to Moët Hennessy’s Shangri-La Estate in the spectacular setting of northwestern Yunnan. Named Winemaker & Estate Manager in 2015, Dulou discusses his work in producing the premium Ao Yun label on one of wine’s newest frontiers. § 2013年，出

身波尔多的酿酒师 Maxence Dulou 举家移居到地球另一端，云南西北的 人间仙境－酩悦轩尼诗香格里拉酒庄，并于 2015 年升任酒庄酿酒师及 经理，让其葡萄栽种及酿酒生涯迈向新的里程碑。Maxence 接受 TK 访 问，分享在最新酿酒产区制作顶级葡萄酒「敖云 (Ao Yun)」的心得。

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What is your favorite part of the process of making wine?

The fascination comes from seeing the rebirth of the vines every year and following them over the season, trying to get the best fruit from each vintage. And then the transformation into wine is something magical that reveals what is in the fruit.

What’s your approach in one sentence?

Discover the finest expression of the place and the vintage.

Who has had the biggest influence on you?

I’ve had the chance to work with winemakers who had differing – and sometimes opposite – philosophies. But Denis Durbourdieu, my professor at Bordeaux University and a famous consultant, has been

COURTESY OF AO YUN VINEYARD

美酒跃云端

Maxence Dulou

the most influential. He was a searcher, a teacher, a winemaker, and his 360-degree vision was really inspiring.

DAVID HARTUNG

Your career has taken you from France to South Africa, Chile, and now China. What advantages and disadvantages are there to making wine here?

The advantage is that there’s no limit to creativity, because we do everything by hand. The disadvantage is that sometimes we don’t have enough farmers to work the vineyards when they’re off in the mountains picking matsutake mushrooms, caterpillar fungus, and other medicinal plants.

I’ve heard that one of the biggest challenges to viticulture in China is the climate.

酿酒过程中最喜欢的部分？ 每年我照看着葡萄藤重新生长，精选 出品质最好的葡萄酿制成酒，展现葡萄蕴 藏的特质，这过程有如魔法般神奇。 能否用一句话形容您的酿酒方法？ 以最好方式表现产区及葡萄的特性。 谈谈对您影响最深远的人？ 我过往曾和理念不同或完全相反的酿 酒师工作，其中以我在波尔多大学的教授， 兼知名酿酒顾问的 Denis Durbourdieu 影 响最大。他从不停止追寻最佳方法，各方 面都能启发到我。 您的酿酒生涯带你从法国去到南非、智利， 现在来到了中国。能否谈谈在此酿酒的优 缺点？ 这里一切靠自己的双手，可以天马行 空，创意不受限是最大的好处，不过当地农

夫有时要到山里采摘松茸、冬虫夏草及其他 草药，导致葡萄园人手短缺，着实让人头痛。

在中国栽种葡萄最大的挑战是气候对吗？ 没错，每个产区都不一样，酿酒过程 也得因地适宜。在香格里拉，挑战更是严 峻，我们在此仅有几年的经验，一切都要 即时调整。好处在于每个季节葡萄酒都会 展现不同面貌，展露该区独一无二的风味。 葡萄藤从何而来？ 最早一批由法国天主教传教士在 1890 年左右引进，到了 2000 年，地方政 府决定开发葡萄园，鼓励在地农夫种植法 国进口的葡萄种。我们一半的葡萄藤是地 方农夫于 2000 年栽种，另一半经过三年 土壤及气候研究后于 2015 年种植。我们 远从中国另一边引进法国葡萄种，在运输 期压短至 7 天之前，便曾在途中折损过不 少葡萄。 enchanted ingredients

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WINE MASTER

Where did your vines come from?

The first ones were planted in this area by French Catholic missionaries around 1890.

In 2000, the local government decided to develop vineyards and encouraged farmers to plant vines imported from France. Half of our vineyards were planted by local farmers in 2000 and the rest were planted in 2015 after three years of soil and climate studies.

We planted French clones that came from the other side of China and so we lost a lot of plants before we optimized the seven-day transportation.

What are the differences between growing grapes in Bordeaux and here?

Everything is done by hand in our Himalayan terroir – the vineyard blocks are the tiniest in the world and the topography is too complicated to mechanize. We work with local farmers who have centuries of horticulture in their blood and are far more precise than any machine.

How would you compare the terroir around Moët Hennessy’s Shangri-La Estate to that of Bordeaux?

We have many types of terroir in our three hundred gardens spread across four villages at altitudes of from 2,200 to 2,600 meters. This brings complexity to our final blends. Our soil has lots of rocks with different percentages of clay that yield different types of wine. The soil allows the root system to go three meters deep for perfect hydric regulation. That has a big impact on maintaining consistent quality, because it helps temper the vagaries of the climate.

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The day-night temperatures and sun exposure are also diverse in our vineyards.

The maximum/minimum/average temperatures are similar to Bordeaux, but our location in the steep Mekong River valley limits the number hours of sunshine in the morning and afternoon. Our ripening period is longer and our dry and sunny end-of-season allows the perfect ripening.

Does the altitude affect the character of the grapes?

It gives us a drier climate that allows us to farm organically, and the stronger UV produces more color and riper tannins.

How do the final wines compare with those of Bordeaux?

Our Cabernets are both fresh and concentrated and have very ripe tannin that gives silkiness at a young age. The result is that our wines can be enjoyed very young without needing the long cellaring that some Bordeaux left bank wines do.

Where should those unfamiliar with Chinese wines start?

China is very big and diverse and has many great terroirs. Ours is completely new and the best word to describe it is “Himalayan.” Other regions are rapidly improving their vineyard management and winemaking skills and the result is the creation of so many good wines all over China.

What surprised you most about life here and what do you like best?

China is very big – here in Yunnan alone there are twenty ethnicities. I’m surprised by the great range of diversity, including in the food. I like the wide-open spaces of untouched nature, the blue skies, the breathtaking landscapes. I especially like the happiness of the local people and their capacity for doing what might seem impossible to the Western mind.

在波尔多及香格里拉种植葡萄有何不 同？ 一切都靠双手－葡萄园面积全球 最小，加上地形过于复杂，要引进机 械几乎不可能。我们和地方农夫合作， 以他们传承数百年来的栽种传统，作 业比任何机器都要精细。 您怎么看酩悦轩尼诗香格里拉酒庄及 波尔多风土的异同？ 我们有三百多座小型庄园，散布 于四个村庄，从海拔 2,200 公尺跨至 2,600 公尺，风土类型众多，也增添 了成品味道的复杂及深度。土壤中的

COURTESY OF AO YUN VINEYARD

Yes, it’s very different from one vintage to another, forcing us to adapt our processes.

And in our location, it’s even more difficult, because we have only a few years of experience and have to adjust in real time. The good thing is that each season gives a wine with an overall sense of the place but also with a distinct sense of the vintage.

岩石泥土比例不尽相同，也造就种类不同 的葡萄酒。葡萄根于此种土壤中可深入地 下三米，水分调节作用极佳，有助因应变 化多端的气候，维持品质稳定不坠。 各庄园日夜温度及日照也都不同，最高 / 最低 / 平均温度和波尔多类似，但湄公河 陡峭山谷的地理位置限制了上午及下午的日 照时数。在此熟成期较长，产季季尾的干燥 气候及阳光普照正是完美熟成所需的要素。

海拔高度是否影响葡萄特性？ 海拔高气候较干，造就施行有机农法 的契机，紫外线强也有助产生多彩及熟成 的单宁。

最终成品和波尔多葡萄酒相比如何？ 我们的卡本内葡萄品种尝起来爽口又 不失浓重味道，单宁熟成度高，即便年份 不长仍有丝般口感，意即出厂不久即可品 尝，不用像部分波尔多左岸所产葡萄酒般 需要长时间窖藏。 不熟悉中国葡萄酒该如何入门？ 中国幅员辽阔，风土条件极佳。我们 全新创作的酒用「喜马拉雅 ( 令人仰之弥 高 )」来形容再适合不过。其他地方产区也 正加速改善葡萄园管理及酿酒技术，各地 可望陆续问世更多好酒。

您怎么看中国葡萄酒未来的发展？ 酿酒人越能接纳和尝试不同的东西， 将会酿造出越来越多一流的葡萄酒。 在此生活最让你惊讶和喜欢是什么？ 中国真的很大，光是云南就有二十个 少数民族。多元的程度实在让我觉得惊奇。 我喜欢广阔无垠的大自然、蓝天及令人屏 息的景致，尤其是当地人知足幸福的神情、 以及做出一堆西方人眼里不可能的事情等 等，更让我深深着迷。

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「混」然天成

the shape of things to come

DAVID HARTUNG

An award-winning Hong Kong bartender reveals the thought processes behind his World Class cocktails.

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So Soy Ingredients: Tanqueray No. TEN Gin, grapefruit juice, orange juice, lime juice, orange blossom, tonka bean, chamomile, soy milk 正是豆 成分： Tanqueray No. TEN琴酒、葡萄柚汁、柳橙汁、莱姆汁、橙花、东加香豆、甘菊、豆浆

DAVID HARTUNG

JAMES BARKER pauses a moment, mentally reviewing the countless drinks he’d mixed and served over the course of the 2016 World Class Bartender of the Year competition. Many of them he’d built directly in chilled glasses, with just a brief stir at the end to combine the elements without overhandling. For others, he’d blended, chilled, and diluted the ingredients in a container before straining into a prepared glass. And some of them he’d thrown from one vessel to another to release aromatics and aerate by texturizing the liquid with tiny bubbles.

But, curiously, he’d shaken only one drink during the entire competition, the one that was specified in the speed round of the Hong Kong and Macau regional finals.

Had Barker actually shunned shaken cocktails in his competition repertoire? Was his seemingly calculated circumvention of such an iconic bartending technique really noteworthy? Well, yes and no. He earnestly professes to admire many shaken cocktails of note, some of which have graced drinks menus at the various restaurants under his purview as Group Bar Specialist of Hong Kong’s JIA Group Limited. It was simply that Barker felt that shaken drinks containing fruit juices might pose a greater risk of muddling up flavors. And in competitions like World Class, where close attention is paid to how well the spirits stand up in mixed drinks, this factor could pose a critical liability. “I found,” Barker says, “that the best way to let a spirit show off and express itself in built drinks was by balancing it with bitter, dry, or sour agents other than fruit juice.”

Sure enough, at the global finals, each of the three cocktails that won him the challenge round known as The Shape of Things to Come, while uniquely innovative in technique and presentation, also set a stage upon which the main spirit could boldly strut its stuff.

“I remember reading the competition brief and feeling daunted by how openended it was,” says Barker. “I had a lot of ideas, and it took a few weeks to zero in on three topics – mindfulness, daytime

drinking, and sustainability. Only after I had the concepts could I go about making the drinks.” The two months that followed involved exhaustive research and preparation for each of the themed cocktails.

To address the theme of mindfulness, Barker conceived So Soy, a vegan-friendly clarified soy-milk punch intended to nourish both body and mind. He highlighted the citrus and chamomile qualities of Tanqueray No. TEN Gin by combining healthy doses of grapefruit, orange, and lime juices with chamomile tea and silky soy milk. Rather than shaking the juiceladen concoction, he heated it up and then poured it through a coffee filter, removing all curds and leaving an elegantly clear liquid. “The beauty,” he says, “is that it’s got the taste and mouthfeel of soy milk and the acidity of the fruit but none of the solids, suspensions, or cloudiness that you’d normally find with juice. It’s a cool and surprising effect.”

In his second cocktail, Slow Grind, Barker paid tribute to daytime drinking by merging elements of the craft-coffee and craft-cocktail movements. “I wanted to create something that was more than just a shot of espresso dumped into a drink and instead bring in all the advancements that baristas are making in their craft – their technical skills, knowledge, and abilities – and give them the recognition they deserve.” Barker spent days and days with the team at Redback Specialty Coffee, experimenting with different coffee blends, roasting methods, brewing techniques, grind types, and water temperatures before settling on an Ethiopian cold-brew coffee.

He further upped the challenge’s difficulty by electing to build the coffee-based drink around Tanqueray No. TEN. The gin’s citrus notes were cleverly enhanced with the bright, citrus-forward flavor profile of the coffee, as well as by the hints of bergamot in the Earl Grey tea and the citrusy elements in the tonic water and syrup.

“It sounds really weird when you read it

out,” he admits. “Coffee, gin, tonic, and tea – it doesn’t sound nice, and it could very easily have gone wrong. But the fact that all the ingredients had that underlying citrus theme made it all work well together.”

Focusing the spotlight on sustainability in his final cocktail, Chai & Rye, Barker chose Bulleit Rye Whiskey in appreciation of the fact that most American oak casks used for aging bourbon and rye are recycled and reused by Scotch and other whisky distillers. He furthermore tried to minimize the carbon footprint of his drink by brewing a homemade chai kombucha.

This was to be the most logistically challenging of Barker’s competition cocktails. The kombucha would take a week to properly brew, but he’d need it on the third day after his arrival in Miami.

Because it was an actively fermenting ingredient, timing and careful preparation were absolutely critical. In the end, he semifermented the kombucha in Hong Kong, removed the scoby from the liquid, and vacuum-packed them separately. “I have no idea how I made it through US customs,” Barker laughs. As soon as he checked in at his hotel, he recombined the elements to complete the fermentation.

A contingency plan was in place well ahead of time. If the packing had failed and he was forced to start a new batch of kombucha, time constraints meant it would probably taste too sweet. So Barker decided he would use rye whiskey, less sweet than bourbon, as a preventative measure to ensure overall balance. Fortunately, his calculations were solid, the kombucha tasted exactly as it should, and no corrections were needed. “At the end of the day, in every taste test I did with the cocktail beforehand, rye whiskey won over bourbon anyway. It’s spicier and drier and has a bit more attitude about it.”

Thinking back once again on the global finals, Barker slowly shakes his head and exhales deeply. “It’s like a full-time job preparing for it – all your weekends and all your free time. But it’s totally worth it.”

James Barker 停顿片刻，回想他在 2016 年「Diageo Reserve World Class」年度调 酒师大赛期间创作的各式调酒，James 大 部分的调酒也直接在冰杯中调制，上桌 前最后一刻才轻轻搅拌，把各种材料混 合，没有多余的处理 ；有的调酒则先把 材料放在容器中混合、冷却及稀释，然 后再倒入预先准备好的酒杯 ；有些他则 把酒于调酒杯之间来回摇动，以释放香 气，过程形成的微小的泡泡可让调酒充 气。然而奇怪的是，在整个比赛中只有 一杯饮料他用上摇杯方式，那就是香港 及澳门站区域决赛「speed round」回合 的作品，原因着实引人好奇。 他是否刻意避免摇杯调酒？而看似 经考量后才避用这标志性的调酒技术 真的值得令人特别注意？ 不论是与否， James 也真诚表示摇杯调酒是自己喜爱 的风格，而在担任香港「JIA Group Limited」餐饮集团酒吧专业督导期间，摇杯 调酒也让旗下餐厅酒单增色不少。James 认为掺入果汁的摇杯饮料，可能会造成 味道混杂的风险 ； 「World Class」比赛重 于检视烈酒的味道如何在混调中表现出 来， 因此这个因素会成为关键。他表示 ： 「我发现要让指定酒在调酒中脱颖而出并 展现特色的方法，就是用偏苦、较干或 酸性的元素来平衡，而非果汁。」 想 当 然 尔， 让 James 在 全 球 总 决 赛 挑 战 称 为「 The Shape of Things to Come」回合中脱颖而出的三款调酒，无 论是技巧及整体呈现​​方式均具独特创意， 让指定酒得以发光发亮，突显风味所长。 他说： 「我还记得当初看比赛简介时， 对形式之开放感到惊讶。我当下有好多 想法，之后花了数周时间构想，最后决 定集中在三个主题，分别是「正念」、 「日 间饮品」及「永续性」来创作。我的脑 海中要先有概念，才能开始著手调酒。」 接下来的两个月 James 几乎废寝忘食， 不断研究、以准备每一款主题调酒。 针对第一个主题「正念」，James 构 想了一款素食者也能享用的净化豆浆调 酒「正是豆（So Soy）」，意在滋养身心灵。 他把对健康有益的葡萄柚、柳橙、加入 甘菊茶和柔滑豆浆的莱姆汁相互混和， 突显了 Tanqueray No. TEN 琴酒独有的 柑橘及甘菊风味。而对此富含果汁的混 调他不循一般摇杯的方式，而是加热后 enchanted ingredients

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Slow Grind Ingredients: Tanqueray No. TEN Gin, Ethiopian cold-brew coffee, Indian tonic Water, Earl Grey tea 慢磨 成分：Tanqueray No. TEN 琴酒、衣索比亚冷泡咖啡、 印度通宁水、伯爵茶

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

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倒在咖啡滤纸上，筛出渣滓，只留下清澈 晶莹的液体。James 进一步说明 ： 「这款调 酒的美妙之处，就是尝得到豆浆的味道及 口感，同时也有水果的酸度，却不见一般 果汁常有的固体物 、悬浮颗粒或混浊度。 整体效果很棒，让人惊喜。」 James 的 第 二 款 鸡 尾 酒「 慢 磨（Slow Grind)」则混合了手工咖啡和调酒的元素， 对日间饮品表示敬意，他说 ： 「我想创造 的，并非把一杯浓缩咖啡倒入调酒就了事 的作品，而是能突显出咖啡师们专业手艺 的先进之处 ：包括其中的技巧、知识及能 耐、从而给予他们应得的肯定。」James 和 Redback Specialty Coffee 团 队 紧 凑 研 究 多 日，试验混和不同咖啡豆、烘焙方法、冲 泡技巧、研磨种类及水温，最后才决定选 用衣索比亚冷泡咖啡。 对于这款以咖啡为基底的调酒，James 还选用了 Tanqueray No. TEN 琴酒，让整体 挑战性进一步提高。咖啡明亮、偏柑橘的 特色风味、伯爵茶的佛手柑香，通宁水和 糖浆的柑橘气味，巧妙衬托琴酒的柑橘味， 相得益彰。他承认这组合听起来似乎很怪， 咖啡、琴酒、通宁及茶，听起来不太凑合， 出错的机率也很高。但其实每个成分多少 都带有柑橘气息，加起来是天衣无缝。 最 后 一 款 调 酒「 茶 及 黑 麦 (Chai & Rye)」的主轴是永续性，由于美国大部分 用于波本及黑麦威士忌熟成的橡木桶均能 回收，由苏格兰及其他威士忌酿酒厂再利 用 ；为此 James 特别选用 Bulleit Rye 美国 波本威士忌致上赞赏之意。同时他也自制 红茶菌，务求将碳足迹降至最低。 照常理推断，不难想像这款酒难度居 三款调酒之冠。红茶菌一般要花上一整周 悉心酿制，但 James 于抵达迈阿密后的第 三天便需使用；而红茶菌为主动发酵物质， 时 间 掌 控 及 准 备 功 夫 绝 对 马 虎 不 得。 最 后，James 选择把红茶菌在香港半发酵完、 把发酵液和菌母除去后，再分别真空包装 携 带。James 笑 着 说 ： 「我都不知道当时 是怎么过美国海关的。」直到入住酒店后， 他才把所有材料重新混和，完成发酵过程。 同时他也提早想好应变备案。如果打 包失败，别无选择要重新制作新一批红茶 菌的话，在有限时间内，成品味道可能太甜， 此时他决定以甜度较低的黑麦威士忌取代 波本作为预防措施，让调酒整体味道依旧 保持平衡。所幸，James 的计算相当精准，

Chai & Rye Ingredients: Bulleit Rye Whiskey, chai kombucha, pandan, charred sugar cane 茶和黑麦 成分：Bulleit 黑麦威士忌、红茶菌茶、班兰、炭烧甘蔗

最终制作的红茶菌味道与预期相符，无须 作额外调整 ： 「现在回头看，事前调酒准备 过程中，每次试味道都是黑麦威士忌胜出。 比起波本，黑麦味道辣、较呛，更有自己 的风味态度。」

回顾全球总决赛，James 缓慢的摇了 摇头，深深吐了一口气表示 ： 「事前备战 简直有如全职工作一般忙碌，可说是周末 及所有空闲时间都投进去了，但绝对是值 得。」 enchanted ingredients

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RESTAURANT LISTINGS FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE

Café Fontana 咖啡苑 Chinese and Western West Esplanade, G/F, Wynn Palace, Avenida da Nave Desportiva, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹体育馆大马路永利皇宮西名店街地 面层 q +853 8889 3663 Daily: Breakfast Buffet: 06:30-11:00; Lunch Buffet: 11:30-15:30; Dinner Buffet: 17:30-23:00; A la Carte Service: 15:30-17:30; 23:00-02:00 A Casual 5

Commissary Southern Californian Level 4, Pacific Place, Admiralty, Hong Kong 香港金钟太古广场4楼 q +852 2602 0707 Mon to Fri: 11:30-00:00; Sat, Sun & Public holidays: 11:00-00:00 5

Dragon Noodles Academy 龙面馆 Modern Chinese Shop no. G04, G/F, Man Yee Arcade, Man Yee Building, No. 68 Des Voeux Road Central, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环德辅道中68号万宜大厦万宜廊地下 G04号铺 q +852 2561 6688 Daily: 11:30-23:00 A Smart Casual 5

Lili 莉莉中菜厅 Cantonese G/F, The Peninsula Paris, 19 Avenue Kléber, 75116 Paris, France q +331 58 12 67 50 Daily: 12:00-14:30; 19:00-22:30 A Smart Casual 5

Sweets 甜艺廊 Patisserie & Gelato North Esplanade, G/F, Wynn Palace, Avenida da Nave Desportiva, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹体育馆大马路永利皇宮北名店街 地面层 q +853 8889 3663 Daily: 09:00-22:30 A Casual 5

Spiga Italian 3/F, LHT Tower, 31 Queen’s Road, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环皇后大道中31号陆海通大厦3楼 q +852 2871 0055 Daily: 12:00-15:00; 18:00-23:00 A Smart Casual

DAVID HARTUNG

5

Tosca 5

Liège 烈日

Italian

Quick Bites The Broadway Food Street, Macau 澳门百老汇美食街 PARKnSHOP, No 199, Rua de Évora, Flower City (Edf. Lei Tou), R/C, Taipa, Macau 澳门氹仔花城埃武拉街199号利图 大厦地下百佳超级市场 q +853 6693 7044 Daily: 10:00-22:30

102/F, The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong, ICC, 1

5

Austin Road West, West Kowloon, Hong Kong 香港柯士甸道西1号环球贸易广场香港丽思卡 尔顿酒店102楼 q +852 2263 2270

Mon to Sat: 12:00-14:30; 18:00-22:30; Sun: 11:30-15:00; 18:00-22:30 A Smart Casual

VEA Restaurant 5

Innovative Chinese-French 29/F-30/F, The Wellington, 198 Wellington Street, Central, Hong Kong

香港中环威灵顿街198号The Wellington 29及 30楼 q +852 2711 8639

29F: Mon to Sat: 17:00-01:00 30F: Mon to Sat: 18:45-00:00 A Smart Casual

Vic’s Restaurante Português 怡景葡国餐厅 5

Portuguese G/F, Rocks Hotel, Macau Fisherman’s Wharf, Avenida Dr. Sun Yat-Sen, Macau

澳门孙逸仙大马路澳门渔人码头莱斯酒店地下 q +853 8295 6583

Daily: 07:00-23:00 A Smart Casual enchanted ingredients

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DESSERT

Christophe Devoille, Executive Pastry Chef at Wynn Palace Cotai, presents his visually arresting study in black and white, Coconut and Black Sesame Condiment. Parallel lines of black sesame paste are drizzled on a plate and topped with a white-glazed molded cake formed from layers of coconut mousse, diced coconut praline, and coconut biscuit. Completing the geometric composition are calculated placements of coconut jelly, dry coconut chips, and coconut meringue.

DAVID HARTUNG

永利皇宫路氹的行政糕点主厨 Christophe Devoille 精心准备了椰子黑芝麻二重奏， 一道以黑白颜色为主调、吸引众人目光的精致甜品。主厨用黑芝麻糊为颜料，在碟上 画出平行线条，并洒在以椰子慕丝、椰子糖和椰子饼组成的层次丰富的白色光面蛋糕上， 更在蛋糕旁摆放椰子啫喱、椰子干和椰子蛋白霜，令这个简洁的几何组合倍添美感。

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TASTE CULTURE

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”Tradition is the passing on of the fire, not the worship of the ashes.“ Gustav Mahler www.austrianwine.com

Are you the next S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2018?

Be part of the most exciting talent search for chefs in the world S.Pellegrino Young Chef is a unique global scouting project to find the best young chef in the world. The 2016 competition saw 3,000 talented Young Chefs from twenty different geographic regions across the globe compete to win the prestigious title, which provides young chefs with an extraordinary chance to gain worldwide visibility in a highly competitive industry, network and learn from prestigious chefs from around the world.

Online applications for S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2018 can be submitted from 1st February - 30th April 2017 on www.sanpellegrino.com.