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BRINGS AN OLD TOWN VIBE TO SERIOUSLY GOOD PIZZA. BY BARRY KAUFMAN • PHOTOS BY ROB KAUFMAN
According to its official “food philosophy,” Mellow Mushroom Pizza Bakers “is a state of mind, a culture, a way of being” and always focuses on fresh ingredients and a devotion to creating an artistic sense of place. Nowhere is this “state of mind” more beautifully realized than inside John and Kim Boyce’s locally owned and operated Mellow Mushroom Pizza Bakers Bluffton. The décor is authentically Bluffton, bursting with color and rife with the folksy irreverence that has long defined our funky little river town. “It’s a great place and we’re proud to be part of the community,” said Kim Boyce. She and John first opened their Bluffton location seven years ago alongside a Hilton Head location that first opened in 2001. “Bluffton just has a different vibe and an energy to it that we love. Our employees feel that, too and they take ownership in our business.” The vibe and energy of Bluffton is on brilliant display throughout the main dining space, with J. Banks-designed décor that lets you feel like you’ve stepped into a quaint riverhouse on the 66
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banks of the May and walls adorned with the kind of freewheeling folk art that has defined Old Town Bluffton for decades. You want to talk about a “state of mind?” Bluffton practically defined the concept, and Mellow Mushroom captured it with an admirable devotion to authenticity. “A lot of the art was bought right on Calhoun Street,” said Kim. “We bought a lot at Eggs n Tricities and there were quite a few pieces made by a local artist (R.A. Miller) to give it that Old Town feel.” And while the décor perfectly captures Old Town’s quirky artistry, the real works of art are made in the stone ovens lining the semi-open kitchen along one side the restaurant. Here, we see Mellow Mushroom’s dedication to fresh ingredients as performance art, with pizza bakers rolling and tossing dough to the delight of diners young and old. And as much fun as it is to watch, it’s even more enjoyable to taste. There’s the array of specialty pies from the sophistication of truffle oil and Montamoré cheese on the Holy Shiitake to the unapologetic gutbomb that is the Mighty Meaty. There’s the range of
hoagies, burgers and salads built with an eye on fresh unique ingredients. And then there are the calzones, taking that famed Mellow Mushroom dough and stuffing it to the bursting point with mouth-watering ingredients. “It’s all about offering the most natural ingredients. There is never a corner cut. It’s always about taking a step forward in making the best product we can make,” said Kim. The endless options get even more customizable when it comes to the ingredients – any pie can be made using gluten-free dough or dairy-free cheese and they’ve even begun offering thin crust. Don’t see something you like on the menu? Missing an old standby? Have a wild hair to try a dozen different ingredients on the same pizza? Just ask! “We’ll take things off of the menu, we leave some things on, but for the most part if you have a favorite from the past we can always make it,” said Kim, who takes her pizzas with feta and black olives. But what is great food without a delicious beverage to wash it down?