Glittering Great Taste wins for Wales
Wales’ top foodie experts appointed
Our pick of Welsh whiskies
YULE LOVE THIS
Plan your Xmas, meal by meal SEA FOR MILES
The hidden gem that’s Swansea
It’s been another great year for award winning Welsh food and drink. As our main feature (p16) shows, with seven 3-star Great Taste winners, dozens of 2-star winners and a plethora of 1-star winners, it’s clear that Wales continues to punch way above its weight. And we all know why – a bountiful, pristine environment, great pastoral traditions and passionate, talented producers all prospering within the supportive framework of a closeknit food and drink community.
It’s a community of many parts - the producers themselves, retail and hospitality professionals determined to stock local produce, Welsh Government’s Food and Drink Division, research, science and technical agencies such as BIC Innovation and Zero2Five, cluster groups that share expertise and support bodies such as Cywain. It’s a long list. Also on the list is the Food and Drink Wales Board, a panel of industry gures that represent the interest of Welsh producers to the government, to the media and beyond whilst also oiling the cogs. You can read about their purpose and new appointments on p22. If you, as a producer, need their help or wisdom, they’d love you to get in touch.
And, of course, the other key element of this community is the people that buy Welsh produce –
whether you’re a foodie or the trade (or both), you’ve been vital to the growth of Welsh food and drink. With Christmas looming and planning for 2025 around the corner, there’s yet more scope to show your support for your local community and to enjoy amazing food and drink by buying even more Welsh produce. As our feature on p9 shows, you can celebrate every element of Christmas exclusively using Welsh produce.
And Welsh food and drink is getting noticed beyond our shores. Food and Drink Wales board member James Wright has, as CEO of Wrexham Lager, recently secured investment from Hollywood’s most famous Wales fanboys, Ryan Gosling and Rob McElhenney, in this most iconic of Welsh brewers. e trade show Blas Cymru Taste Wales goes from strength to strength, having just announced its return in October 25. And exports are booming.
So, a er an, at times, challenging and unpredictable 2024, we can look forward to Christmas and an exciting year ahead.
Paul Mulligan Publisher
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e season for giving lasts all year at Fareshare Wisgi a Go
If it glitters, it probably is gold for Wales, at the Great Taste
Word salad dressing?
Jon Gower gets downright silly with food expressions
Caroline’s Veggie Carol
12 Days of Christmas gets a workover
Hold the Front Page
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14
36 e latest news hot o the press
Restaurant Reviews
Head west this Winter and get away from it all
Recipes
Cwtch up and enjoy some warming winter fare
Finger Lickin’ Treats
Let our food and drink reviews tickle your taste buds
Myfanwy loves a good rolling pin, especially at Christmas
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e recent Welsh Seafood Week got me thinking. Not necessarily about cockles and mussels and so on but perversely about playing with words. Inventing slogans. Sea food and eat it. I then got properly hooked. No plaice like home. e sole occupation. Cod almighty. Don’t be so shell sh. Like shing itself, such word play is o en catching. Take a perch. Speak up because I’m hard of herring. For heaven’s hake.
Some years ago I heard a presentation by a professional brander whose skills lay in nding just the precise word to attract attention to a food product. One of the examples he used was placing the adjective “luscious” before Marks and Spencer black cherries to make them a juicier proposition. Simply saying “luscious” black cherries is enough to get the taste buds working, all those “s” sounds sloshing around. Try it. Let the words wash around the mouth. Try two bites of the cherry. Even better.
at single example of e ective branding was enough to get me a whole summer’s worth of free cocktails in Oakland, California, where I would start discussing the adjectives on the list with the metrosexual mixologist. Without exception we would nd better or just very interesting ways to discuss the various concoctions and their ingredients, a pleasant word game that nine times out of ten saw the bill being waived.
Some local names seemed really appropriate such as San Francisco’s Fog Cutter, which is a tiki cocktail combining rum, gin, brandy, orange and lemon juice, orgeat, and sherry… a name so very appropriate for a city that o en has misty mornings. A bit like the morning a er a Fog Cutter or four. Someone should have warned me.
You will by now be in no doubt that I enjoy some playful paronomasia, that perhaps unfamiliar term being the fancy word for word punning. (My mother, bless her, always said I was educated beyond my intelligence.)
Welsh merchandisers Ta ywood happily mess around with lm and book titles in their products. eir o en zany Cardi references always make me smile. You could call them capital jokes. ere’s e Grapes of Roath, for instance, a suitably juicy example. Some
Like It Splott. e Blair Whitchurch Project. To give you just a taste of Ta ywood apples, as it were.
You can apply the same principle to food, with various degrees of success. ere’s the chippy in the valleys called A Fish Called Rhondda, frying tonight in Ton Pentre. My wife didn’t think e Silence of the Welsh Lambs was in good taste, but she laughed nevertheless, just before heading o to catch the Great Spaghetti Western train to Swindon.
Swindon, of course means pig hill or place where pigs are reared and might have some connection with Sweyn, much as does Sweyn’s eye or Swansea. Now Swansea is where you might go to look for Love’s Laverbread Lost, as it’s a local speciality. You see how it rolls? Such lexical gymnastics can make you egg-static or egg-cited as long as you don’t get too egg-stravagant. Gymnastics as in a forward roll, or a forward egg roll. I really mustard apologise for that one!
I could imagine that having a few of these up your waiter’s sleeve might give you the making of an eggceptional a er dinner speech, but then again it might go down badly, like a dud sou e...
‘I really don’t carrot all about your speech’ might be the lukewarm response but lettuce not focus on olive this negativity.
at said, nothing, and I mean nothing beets a good food pun. at said, we shouldn’t get curried whey. ere’s too much at steak. e steaks are high. Mind you a good sirloin joke is rare. Bloody, even. ere are even vegetarian variants on the theme. A huge missed steak. If you don’t get the humour straight away let it marinate for a while.
Food puns, however weak or even a tri e infantile, o en lead to da jokes such as ‘How do you handle a very dangerous cheese? Answer: ‘Very Caerphilly.’ Or the one about an explosion at a cheese factory in France… all that was le was de brie.
It’s all a bit silly but also a celebration of the joys of language. Which has so many champagne moments. Cheers! Iechyd da!
A
meal by meal guide to making the most of the festive season using nothing but deliciously Welsh food and drink
e tree is glowing, the presents are wrapped, and anticipation lls the air. It’s time to mingle festivities with our culinary traditions and some great Welsh produce.
Start the evening with a few nibbles. In Wales, we’re spoilt for choice for wonderful cheeses. e Welsh Cheese Company have a huge selection from renowned producers such as Caws Cenarth, Caws Tei , Hafod, Trefaldwyn and Blaenafon Cheddar And most supermarkets will have Dragon Cheese’s Cheddar and their excellent range of artisan cheeses as well as Colliers’ robust cheddar. A tangy Perl Las blue cheese, paired with Cradoc’s Crackers, or for the sweeter of tooth, a slice of Hafod Cheddar with Shepherd’s cheese biscuits, for example, make for an excellent snack platter. Accompany this with slices of PGI Carmarthen Ham, which is as good as any air cured ham you’ll ever buy, or opt for seafood nibbles like Selwyn’s cockles or Pembrokeshire Beach Food’s laverbread
No Christmas Eve would be complete without a mulled drink of some sort, and you can’t get much more Christmassy than mead. So, combine the two and pour a glass of Hivemind’s Mulled Mead. Made from sweet Welsh honey and cra ed with an array of warming spices it’s the perfect companion for carol singing, cosy res and mince pies. Talking of which, you have plenty of choice in Wales but for something a bit di erent try Burts Viennese mince pies, renowned for their sweet base tart shell or perhaps Wilfred’s Pies’ range of enticing mincemeat avours such as Welsh honey and rum or Cointreau and orange. Add a dollop of Shirgar’s extra thick brandy cream for extra magic.
Nobody wants to spend Christmas Eve tied to a stove so keep the main meal simple. A warming bowl of cockle and laverbread soup, or a quick and easy grilled Welsh Sewin (sea trout) accompanied by seasonal roasted vegetables are both great dishes, that allow plenty of time for a wee dram. To minimise the risk of hangovers on Christmas morning perhaps stick to clear spirits, such as In e Welsh Wind’s Signature Gin or Aber Falls’ Welsh Dry and a liberal splash of Brecon Carreg’s tonic water.
Christmas morning is magical so kick o festivities with a lavish breakfast. Start with a platter of smoked salmon, ideally from one of Wales’ nest suppliers like the Black Mountains Smokery. is delicacy pairs beautifully with creamy scrambled eggs, made from free-range Welsh eggs. Add a healthy dash of Castle Dairies butter to make the eggs luxuriously rich. And you can’t beat a few Welsh cakes – you could go traditional with Popty Bakery and Tan Y Castell, quirky sweet with Blasus or savoury with Mamgu or Rogue. Or have fun making your own with a kit from Blasus. And many swear by Tregroes unique, mouthwatering, wa es – available in both sweet and savoury varieties.
For drinks, a Christmas morning wouldn’t be complete without a celebratory tipple. As an alternative to Bucks Fizz, try Gasm’s Sloeberry Gin and Sparkling Wine cocktail. If you’d rather stay traditional, Wales is great for sparkling wines with Velfrey, Ancre and White Castle vineyards and more all delivering ne examples.
e focus of Christmas Day is, of course, lunch or dinner, where the nest Welsh produce can truly shine.
Commence with a simple yet elegant starter. You could go for a classic prawn cocktail, elevated with a twist of Welsh Laverbread. Sticking to the sea theme, and for major wow factor try some delicious Pembrokeshire oysters from Atlantic Edge, Alternatively, a creamy leek and potato soup, made with Blas y Tir’s locally grown Welsh leeks, can provide a comforting start to the meal.
For the main course, a traditional roast turkey is hard to beat but you could push the boat out with a roast sirloin of PGI Welsh beef, locally sourced leg of PGI Welsh Lamb or even Goose from a Welsh farm – all will serve brilliantly as the star of the table, bringing a sense of occasion, not to mention a taste extravaganza. If a meat free option is needed, the Parsnipship’s selection of hand-made nut-roasts are delicious and easy. Accompany the roast with organic seasonal vegetables from Blas Y Tir, or a local Welsh producer (theorganiccooperative.com is a great place to nd one). And don’t forget the gravy – made from the lamb, beef or goose drippings, Krunchie gravy browning and enhanced with a splash of Welsh mead or cider for added richness.
Pairing the right wine for your Christmas meal is a must. With so many excellent Welsh vineyards now, there’s no shortage of local options. Take your pick from Montgomery’s so Rondo, Ancre Hill’s bold biodynamic Pinot Noir, White Castle’s elegant Siegerrebe, or Dell Vineyard’s aromatic Yr Afanc to name a few.
Dessert is o en a highlight of the big day. A traditional Christmas pudding, rich with dried fruits and spices, from Siwgr a Sbeis is very hard to beat, especially when served with Blas ar Fwyd’s brandy sauce. For something lighter, a pavlova, topped with local winter berries, is a great choice, or a spiced ginger cake infused with Welsh whisky or Glyndwr Welsh brandy
As Christmas Day winds down, the pace slows and the focus shi s from grand feasting to lighter, more casual, grazing, allowing everyone to nibble at their leisure.
A charcuterie board featuring Welsh cured meats from the likes of Baker’s Pig or Trealy Farm, aforementioned local cheeses, and bread from one of Wales many artisan bakers such as Cardigan’s Crwst or Alex Gooch, makes for a perfect evening spread. Pair the cheese and charcuterie with chutneys and preserves from Dragon, Celtic Preserves or Welsh Lady, adding sweetness and depth to the platter. None of which would be complete without a forti ed wine. 1581, White Castle’s take on late bottled vintage port, is sublime, while Celteg’s Elderport is a delightful, fruitier, alternative.
For a cheeky late evening treat, how about some chocolate? Chocolatier Sarah Bunton’s beautiful handmade chocolates are a work of art and Wickedly Welsh do some amazing Christmas selections. And there’s always Christmas cake. Burts’ and Sigwr a Sbeis’ o erings are both excellent, being rich and dense with fruits and nuts, and topped with marzipan. Perfect alongside a pot of strong Welsh tea from Welsh Brew or a speciality tea from Morgan’s Brew.
A er the indulgence of Christmas Day, Boxing Day usually has a more relaxed approach to food. It’s a day to make the most of le overs, transforming them into casual, comforting dishes.
Le over roast meats can be piled into sandwiches with local chutneys or cranberry sauce. For something heartier, how about a Boxing Day pie or a stew, using up the le over meat and vegetables? If you’re all out of le overs, you could still enjoy a great pie, courtesy of Wilfred’s or the Celtic Pie Company – keep a few in the freezer ready to be called into action just in case. Or you could try the cold salmon recipe later in this issue. It’s wonderfully easy, can be prepared in advance and is delicious.
Boxing Day is also the perfect time to enjoy a second wave of festive drinks. With a ne array of gin liqueurs and an exceptional, brand new, Whisky cream liqueur, Aber Falls is a great place to start. If you prefer rum to whisky then Barti Ddu’s equally stunning rum cream liqueur should do the trick while Celtic Spirits, alongside sister company Condessa Liqueurs, o er a plethora of wonderful variations on the theme. For whisky a cionados, a ne PGI Welsh Whisky from one of the distillers in this issue’s whisky feature is a great way to wrap up the evening.
As Boxing Day draws to a close, re ect with pride on the fact that the nest Welsh products have taken you on a culinary journey from Christmas Eve to Boxing Day bringing unforgettable avours, and memories, to your festive celebrations.
Each year in Wales, around 400,000 tonnes of food is wasted, much of it still good to eat.
This surplus food could be provided to charities and turned into meals, instead of going to waste.
FareShare Cymru is keen to work with Welsh food businesses, to get good-to-eat food to people, rather than throwing this surplus food away.
With rising costs over the last few years, food businesses might have had to cut back on donating their surplus food, as it is often cheaper to send food to animal feed, anaerobic digestion, or landfill.
The launch of the Surplus with Purpose Cymru fund has allowed Welsh food businesses to provide their surplus food completely free of charge, as the fund covers the cost of getting this food to FareShare Cymru’s network of charities. Not only does this fund mean businesses avoid the costs associated with donating their surplus but it also reduces the environmental impact of waste disposal.
Since April 2024, the Surplus with Purpose Cymru fund has seen an impressive 268 tonnes of fresh produce including cucumbers, potatoes, cauliflower and milk through the doors of the FareShare warehouse, at no cost to the contributing businesses. This has prevented 777 tonnes of CO2 emissions had the food ended up in landfill. As FareShare distributes this surplus food to charities and organisations, it has helped create an estimated 638,095 meals for people who need it most.
One food partner who accessed the Surplus with Purpose Cymru fund this year is Bremenda Isaf Farm in Carmarthenshire. Bremenda Isaf Farm is a forwardthinking farm, currently trialing an initiative to grow high-quality produce locally, for locals; reducing reliance on sourcing food from further afield and subsequently, reducing the carbon emissions that come with the transport. Piers, from Bremenda Isaf Farm, commented on his experience of accessing the fund:
‘At Bremenda Isaf Farm we have a mission to grow great quality, nutritious food for the public plate. But as with any food producer, there is always surplus that needs to find a home. It’s brilliant that we can provide some of our surplus to FareShare Cymru, in the
knowledge that it will reach people across Wales who need it most.’
Piers explains how access to the fund meant they could prevent an over-production of cucumbers from going to waste:
‘This fund has been absolutely instrumental in diverting surplus from waste. We had a situation in which cucumbers destined for school meals were producing significant quantities during the summer holidays. Our other markets were unable to take those quantities, so it was a lifeline for us to have a third sector route that had no limit on the number of cucumbers it could handle. In today’s economic climate, in which people struggle to afford the high cost of living, it was so good to know that our produce was going where it was really needed.’
Not only does the Surplus with Purpose Cymru fund take the cost of donating surplus out of the equation, it is also hassle free. Piers explained the fund was easy to use: ‘All we had to do was stay in communication with FareShare [Cymru] officers around pick up times, and ensure stock was packed and ready to go.’
When asked if he would recommend the Surplus with Purpose Cymru fund to others in the industry, Piers said:
‘We would definitely recommend other growers to access this fund. As growers, we will always have surplus produce that won’t make the grade for our regular markets, but is still perfectly good to eat. It makes sense to provide that surplus to a third sector that can use it support some of the most vulnerable in our society, at minimal time and logistics input from us.’
The Surplus with Purpose Cymru fund has had an immeasurable impact on communities across Wales in the last few years. It has allowed FareShare Cymru to access local, high-quality surplus, like that of Bremenda Isaf Farm’s, that would’ve otherwise gone to waste. If you would like to do good with your surplus and access the fund before the end of the year, get in touch at SWP@fareshare.cymru
Welsh whisky has surged in popularity in recent years, as distilleries across the country produce high-quality spirits that are earning global recognition. Once overlooked in the world of whisky, Wales is now home to several distilleries crafting unique and flavourful whiskies that celebrate the country’s rich history and landscapes. Here are some of the standout distilleries, exploring their origins, their range, and highlighting special editions that truly capture the essence of Welsh whisky.
Founded in 2018, In The Welsh Wind is an independent distillery based on the Cardigan Bay coastline. The distillery prides itself on its artisanal approach, producing small-batch spirits with a strong focus on innovation and sustainability. Although In The Welsh Wind initially gained recognition for their gins, whisky production was always the ambition, using locally sourced barley to create unique expressions that push the boundaries of traditional whisky-making.
Their whisky range is still in its infancy, with several exciting projects in development. The distillery is experimenting with different cask finishes and grain types, ensuring that each release is distinct and reflective of the distillery’s creative ethos. The Limited Edition Whisky sold out instantly in April 2024, with another release anticipated for November 2024 – keep those eyes peeled and those ears to the ground!
Located near the stunning Aber Falls waterfall in Abergwyngregyn, Aber Falls Distillery is one of the newer players in the Welsh whisky scene, having opened in 2017. The distillery was established with a focus on producing premium spirits that draw inspiration from the local environment, using Welsh barley and water sourced from the nearby mountains.
Aber Falls offers a variety of spirits, including gins and liqueurs, but their whiskies are rapidly gaining attention. Their core range includes single malt whiskies that are aged in a mix of different casks, including bourbon, sherry, and virgin oak, resulting in complex flavours that are rich in character.
Aber Falls Rye Distillery Exclusive is particularly noteworthy. Made from a combination of 51% malted rye and 49% Welsh malted barley, this 52% Rye Whisky has been matured in a Virgin Oak cask for just over 3 years. Natural in colour & non-chill filtered –this whisky produces notes of Christmas cake candied fruits, marzipan, chocolate, and vanilla, whilst the palate delivers a taste of rye bread with hints of apple and malt. After you’ve sipped, there’s a long-lasting, delicately spiced finish reminiscent of spiced, ginger biscuits. (RRP: £85)
Penderyn Distillery is the flagship of Welsh whisky, having reintroduced the spirit to Wales in 2000 after more than a century of absence. Nestled in the foothills of the Brecon Beacons, Penderyn quickly established itself as a key player in the global whisky market. The distillery is renowned for its use of a unique Faraday still, which allows for a higher degree of purity in their spirit.
Penderyn’s range is extensive, covering various styles from their core Madeira-finished single malt to more experimental expressions like those finished in port, sherry, and peated casks. Their Gold Range and Icons of Wales series have become particularly popular, showcasing the diversity of flavours that Penderyn can produce.
Penderyn Rich Oak is a standout whisky that showcases the distillery’s ability to produce a full-bodied and complex spirit. This single malt is matured in exbourbon barrels and then finished in rejuvenated European oak casks, offering rich flavours of dark chocolate, dried fruit, and a touch of spice. It’s a whisky that truly reflects the skill and innovation at Penderyn. (RRP: £45)
Da Mhile (pronounced Da-Vee-Lay) was established in 1992 by organic farming pioneer John SavageOnstwedder. Originally focused on producing organic spirits, Da Mhile has since expanded its offerings to include whisky, making it one of the few distilleries in the world to produce certified organic whisky. The distillery is located on a farm in Ceredigion, where they produce a range of spirits that reflect their commitment to sustainability and quality.
Da Mhile’s whisky range is small but distinctive, with a focus on organic production. Their whiskies are aged in a variety of casks, including sherry and port, to create complex and nuanced flavours. The distillery also produces a range of gins and liqueurs, all certified organic.
The 2024 Da Mhile Single Grain Welsh Whisky is their latest release, part-aged in an Islay Quarter Cask and carrying a lightly peated flavour. Sweet, floral, and fruity on the nose, an initial taste of sweetness quickly transforms into warm spice with hints of oak and liquorice. Expect a warm, smooth, and comforting finish – with salt and smoke to leave an impression that lasts! (RRP: £95)
Coles Distillery is a family-owned operation located in the small village of Llanddarog, Carmarthenshire. The distillery was founded in 2014 and is part of a larger operation that includes a traditional Welsh pub and brewery. Coles prides itself on producing handcrafted spirits using traditional methods, with a strong emphasis on quality and authenticity.
Coles offers a variety of whiskies, all distilled onsite using traditional pot stills. Their range includes single malt and blended whiskies, with a focus on using locally sourced ingredients. The distillery is also known for its rum and gin, adding to its reputation as a versatile producer of spirits.
Coles Apple Jack Whisky is a happy accident from an attempt to make apple vodka, a classic American winter spirit made by freezing cider and concentrating the alcohol in a process called jacking. After tasting the result, Coles decided to mature it in ex-bourbon barrels for over three years – creating a unique whisky with flavours of sherry, smoked vanilla, caramel, and dried fruit. (RRP: £45)
Anglesey Môn Distillery is one of the newer distilleries on the Welsh whisky scene, located on the picturesque island of Anglesey. The distillery has a strong focus on craftsmanship and local ingredients, aiming to create a truly Welsh whisky experience. Their production is still in the early stages, but they have already generated excitement with their innovative approach.
Currently, Anglesey Môn offers a limited range of spirits, with their Anglesey Whisky Project promising to be a fascinating addition to the Welsh whisky landscape. This project involves maturing whisky in casks that previously held Welsh wine and honey, aiming to create a spirit that reflects the heritage of Anglesey.
Anglesey Môn Whisky has been distilled and bottled by hand on the family farm using water drawn from the Anglesey Spring. This natural filtering by an ancient layer of glacial gravel complements a maturing process in oak casks, to give the whisky a unique quality and flavour. (RRP: £32)
An incorrigible eccentric, I’ve o suspected I may have a screw loose. But recently, I discovered I actually had four. Post January tibial fracture, my metalwork somehow went walkies and, under local anaesthetic (applause, please), I had two of the o ending vagrants removed. Whilst the consultants debated in earshot which screwdrivers to use (hexagonal, FYI), I survived the ordeal by devising this column, melodically moaning my own veggie version of the Twelve Days of Christmas. I’ll give the First Day in full, then beg your collaboration in lling in the initialism, MTLGTM. So, lubricate your larynx with some “superbly sippable”, seaweed-infused Barti Spiced Rum and wassail wantonly as you read.
On the 1st Day of Christmas, My True Love Gave To Me, a Blas Fridge (ouch!) Of Want-Some Welsh Cheese: Drool unashamedly over e Welsh Cheese Company’s encyclopaedic website, where my top truckles are Snowdonia’s Bouncing Berry and Harlech’s Horseradish and Parsley. Utterly moreish. Cut generous wedges of Cosyn Cymru, a thistle-rennet (tick!), a ewe’s-milk-cra ed coup, each creamy, bardic bite conjuring local Lleyn sheep grazing on sundappled grasslands. Brooke’s Brie-inspired Angiddy evokes barefoot, basketed suppers in wheat-swaying meadows.
On the 2nd DOC, MTLGTM, 2 Tarts I Love (tee hee!): try a cheesy cauli ower tatin and a parsnip and goats’ cheese an. Combine Anglesey’s Heidi-hollering Y Cwt Caws cheese and locally grown, vitamin-vibrant veg from legume-lover’s paradise, the Blue Lias Farm shop, Llantwit Major.
On the 3rd DOC, bla bla bla, (lazy one coming) 3 Welsh Hens: I’m clearly not counselling eating them, but rather what pops out of the pullets’ posteriors. e Shervington family in Wentlooge has produced their Tŷ Mawr Free Range for over a century. Feather-fresh, with Belisha Beacon yolks that yell felicity, they make a cracking (soz) and winter-warming Wyau Ynys Môn or a Welsh Amber pudding with Calon Lân’s richlyrindy Tangerine Marmalade. With every mouthful, feel cwtched under a Welsh wool blankie, by a spitting log re, reading R.S. omas.
On the 4th Day, insert blas here (ha ha) - 4 Dairy Herds: let’s go milk-made-mad! From the rst Welsh dairy with a vending machine (fun!), kick o with Gelli Farm’s Raw Milk from Cefn Cribwr. From cow-
to-cup in under 48 hours and super-nutritious. Blend with a saporous salted caramel or spiced pumpkin, no-powder Pendragon hot choccy (sublime melt-inthe-milk, tiny chocolate chunks) and round o with generous slugs of Penderyn’s mouthwatering Merlyn Welsh Cream. Per aith.
On the 5th Day, 5 Leeky Rings: crunchy cennin in a beckoning batter, using Y Felin’s gorgeously grainy Stoneground Wholemeal our, sauteed in buttercupbright Blodyn Aur Rapeseed Oil. Our OG vegetarian, leek-lauding Dewi Sant, will wa triumphantly before your eyes, promise.
On the 6th Day, 6 Quiches Praying (that they won’t be humdrum cheese ‘n’ onion): try blending Blue Lias’s purple sprouting broccoli - so buddleia-beautiful and moss-springy, it Tigger-bounced on my tongue – with their crispiest corn on the cob. On the 7th Day, 7 ‘Chons a-Brimming, as in cornichons and other pickles (Okay, okay…). Calon Lan’s inspired Purple Moose chutney, with ale from their Bragdy Mŵs Piws brewery is exquisitely palate-arousing: think Treorchy Male Voice Choir singing “Myfanwy”.
On the 8th Day, (love this one) 8 Trays with Guilt In. Fill ya boots with Jones O Gymru’s choose-me chocolate or Fat Bottom Welsh Cakes’ Lavender and Honey, the latter a magni cent synaesthetic discombobulation, tasting redolently like bath salts smell. Novel and naughty, but oh..neis iawn!
On the 9th Day, 9 Ladies Fingers (I know, I know), the 10th,10 Gourds and Neep things (leave me be now). Again, just lap up what’s local and get creative. Patronise your Pumpkin Patch and roast your haul, adding fresh ginger, peanut butter and tangy Caerfai Caer li cheese for a lunchtime lyte (Lasts You Til Evening) soup. On the 11th Day, 11 Poptai Pinging: Welsh bread-spread time! Savour Village Bakeries’ scones, with the only Welsh-produced clotted cream from Da odil Foods. Spoon-standing decadence in a dollop. Or embrace convenience, a mug-made bara brith perhaps, in your microwave (ta, Nigella).
On the 12th Day, 12 Chums-a-Crumbing: all things crumbled, confected with friends, be they fruit, veg or pulses (the ingredients, not the pals). And the ideal, go-to tipple for the climactic, carolling cadence? A sni er of Steeltown’s furnace- ery, irtatiously oral, Carmarthenshire coal-clari ed Vodka. In a Screwdriver, for me, obvs.
FOUNDED by a husband-and-wife team on a whim, a Mid-Wales smokery whose proud boast is ‘making really good food even better’ captured the Golden Fork for Wales award at the Great Taste Awards ceremony – widely known as the ‘Food Oscars’ – at Battersea Arts Centre.
Jo and Jonathan Carthew, of the Black Mountains Smokery in Crickhowell, saw their Smoked Duck Breast achieve the ultimate accolade, beating off competition from Chorizo, from Moch Coch, of Carmarthen, and Dà Mhìle Absinthe, from Dà Mhìle Distillery, of Llandysul.
The smokery specialises in producing a wide range of delicious oak-smoked foods, including salmon, fish, meats and cheese as well as food gifts and luxury Welsh hampers. Their products are crafted using traditional methods and the finest ingredients, ensuring exceptional taste and quality.
The Golden Fork award marks the culmination of a dream nurtured since Jo and Jonathan returned home to the UK in 1995 after a decade spent in Botswana drawn by their memories of a 16th century Welsh long house where they honeymooned.
Yet it was a trip to Scotland, when a fish Jonathan had caught was treated at a local smokery, which planted the seeds of setting up a similar enterprise in Wales.
“We started from scratch, from very small beginnings, building the panels in our smokehouse ourselves with our 18-month-old daughter handing us rivets to put it together,” Jo recalls.
Jonathan attributes the rise of the Black Mountains Smokery to huge local support. Over the years the business has also developed into a mail order operation taking in orders from all over the world. Their smoked Gressingham duck breast – lightly cured and gently hot smoked over Welsh oak – was described by Abby Allen, of Pipers Farm, as a great example of traditional smoking.
“The meat really shone,” she said. “It had a subtle smokiness and the cure was absolutely exceptional, creating this lovely velvet melt-in-the-mouth texture.”
Although Dà Mhìle Distillery failed to claim the regional title of Golden Fork for Wales, they still had cause to celebrate as their Absinthe took the Nigel Barden Heritage Award for highlighting traditional production methods and heritage.
Glynhafod Farm (‘Remarkable Valley’ in Welsh), the home of Dà Mhìle Distillery, has been owned and run by the Savage-Onstwedder family since 1981. John, Opatrice and Paula came to west Wales from their native Holland with the intention of setting up an organic farming centre.
Their first venture, using Paula’s renowned cheesemaking skills, was the celebrated Caws Teifi Cheese,
which is still made on the farm to this day. A decade or so later, John spotted a gap in the market for organic whisky and in 1992 commissioned Springbank Distillery to make him a whisky, establishing Dà Mhìle to create the first organic whisky of the modern era. Twenty years later the family opened their very own distillery on the farm.
Since then, they have continued to make not only whisky, but also other organic spirits from Dark Skies Rum to Seaweed Gin, all inspired by local history and surroundings.
Yet it was their hand-crafted Absinthe, with its stunning warm-green natural colour with umami flavour, which did rather more than simply catching the eye at this year’s Great Taste Awards.
Said to fill the glass with aromas of aniseed and delicious herbal undertones, beneath its bold 67 per cent ABV, its finish was described as ‘smooth and long with a fresh zing and precious little burn’.
Whilst traditionally enjoyed with ice-cold water poured over a spoon of sugar, John recommends it is diluted with coconut water to an ABV of around 40 per cent and, if sweetened, use organic sugar cubes. He also declares it works well with organic lemonade.
Great Taste judges evidently adhered to his advice, describing the drink as ‘a truly excellent example of authentic, classic absinthe’, the prized result of ‘brilliant craftmanship’.
These, then, were the stand-out successes as producers from Wales won 149 awards at the world’s largest food and drink awards with seven taking home the gold stamp of approval with 3-stars.
Their recognition follows hard on the heels of recent statistics confirming the food and drink sector in Wales grew by 10 per cent in the last year, with businesses reporting a total turnover of £24.6bn in 2023, compared to £22.3bn in 2022.
Welsh Government Cabinet Secretary for Climate Change and Rural Affairs, Huw Irranca-Davies, said: “The remarkable success of our producers at the Great Taste Awards is a clear reflection of the exceptional quality and innovation that our producers bring to the global food and drink scene.
“These awards are not just accolades; they are a testament to the hard work, dedication, and rich culinary heritage that Wales is known for. I look forward to working with these producers as we continue building on the recent successes of the industry and elevating Wales as a beacon of food and drink excellence.”
The Great Taste Awards are organised by the Guild of Fine Food, and every entry was blind tasted by the Guild’s expert judging panel of over five hundred food critics, chefs, recipe creators, buyers, retailers, and other specialists in the field of food and drink.
Entries were analysed across 92 judging days, each receiving detailed feedback, whether or not they obtained an award.
As Great Taste is the world’s largest and most trusted food and drink accreditation scheme, producers putting their food or drink to the test before the judges find it a quick way to receive honest, straightforward and impartial feedback from chefs, buyers, food writers and retailers.
Whether a product receives a 1-, 2- or 3-star accolade, Great Taste stars are coveted and highly respected seals of approval.
Winning a Great Taste award not only encourages confidence and commercial success for small businesses, it also motivates their teams, as well as generate greater awareness for products locally, regionally, nationally and internationally.
Accreditation means a producer’s food or drink will stand out in a crowded market. This, coupled with extensive consumer and trade promotion by the Guild of Fine Food, will lead to increased sales and brand awareness.
The Guild of Fine Food has been described as ‘a community of over 12,000 business owners sharing the same passion for good food and drink’.
The Guild’s raison d’etre is to support, celebrate and encourage independent food and drink retailers and the producers that supply them while at the same time promoting excellence in all sectors of the trade.
And this year’s awards are by no means isolated Welsh successes. Welsh products to receive recognition last year included Brecon Chocolates’ Whisky and Pecan Praline and Vale of Glamorgan Brewery Ltd’s VOG Jackson’s Black Oyster Shell IPA.
The previous year saw success for 182 Welsh products at the awards, including small independent artisan producers and large-scale distributors.
This year’s Welsh 3-Star award winners included Anglesey Fine Foods Ltd’s Black Label Shoulder of Anglesey Fat Tail Lamb. Founded in Holyhead by Adam and Joanne Parrott in 2017, after Adam gave up his corporate career in the north west to return to his farming roots and support Joanne with her new venture. They are a traditional butchery ‘providing meat the way meat should be’ by offering a bespoke service with sustainability, animal welfare and provenance at its heart. They buy from many local Welsh suppliers, support local non-food businesses and supply many local hotels and restaurants while offering a refrigerated delivery service to the door.
From one farm to another. Moch Coch, of Carmarthen, who saw their Chorizo effectively bring home the bacon, make great tasting cured and airdried meats and salamis. Hand-crafted using the finest natural ingredients, the meats are slowly air-dried over several months. Also available are a small number of
meat boxes. Caring for their animals and ensuring they have extensive natural environments in which to roam is central to how they farm. As for their prize-winning Chorizo, hot smoked Spanish pimentón and fresh garlic create warm and intense flavours in this delightful fully cured sausage. Ready to eat, this Chorizo is perfect for tapas or as part of a starter board.
Another award-winning farm – and one dating back to the 1550s – is Black Welsh Lamb, of Abergavenny, whose Organic Pasture-fed Mutton Shoulder also tickled the judges’ taste buds. Award-winning organic, purely pasture-fed Black Welsh lamb, hogget and mutton are produced on the edge of the Black Mountains in Monmouthshire. Famous for its flavour and lower fat, their meat can be bought frozen from the farm or delivered fresh in a small or large box anywhere in the UK. Their aim is to farm as naturally and sustainably as possible and their meat comes from a closed flock of pedigree Black Welsh Mountain Sheep developed over a 15-year period.
Welsh Wildflower Honey earned sweet success for Gwenyn Gruffydd honey makers, of Carmarthen, who were founded in 2010 when Gruffydd Rees decided to follow his dream of keeping bees. The solitary hive in the back of his parents’ garden quickly multiplied into over two hundred beehives dotted around south Wales all producing 100 per cent pure, minimally filtered, unpasteurised (raw) Welsh honey. Their winning honey has been memorably described as a taste of Welsh summer in a jar; created from a mix of wildflowers and blossom.
‘Naughty, but nice’ could perfectly sum up the Welsh Whisky and Chocolate Tart of Cardiff’s Patisserie Verte, a company who specialise in traditional, high-end French patisserie with a twist. Each product is designed by the award-winning pâtissier, Thibault Courtoisier, to bring beauty, decadence and sophistication to the palate – and all products are 100 per cent plant-based. Their Welsh Whisky and Chocolate Tart – AKA ‘The Posh Tarte’ – which earned them their first 3-star Great Taste Award, is made using a winning combination of Penderyn whisky and Valrhona chocolate to form a tartlet extremely rich in chocolate, but also really creamy and clean in the mouth.
In total 97 Welsh products achieved 1-star status and 45 bagged 2-star awards with the following deserving a special mention:
Famed for its pristine marine environment, Pembrokeshire is home to the UK’s only marine nature reserve at nearby Skomer Island. So, it should come as no surprise that Atlantic Edge Oysters saw their Pembrokeshire Rock Oysters – grown amongst seagrass beds within a marine protected area – make a splash.
And Barry Island Spirits Company can be forgiven for toasting themselves after their Welsh Dry Gin made waves too. The Barry Island Spirits Range are made by blending the finest botanicals with the purest Welsh water from the Brecon Beacons to create premium Welsh spirits. Their Organic Welsh Vodka also won a 2-star award.
And if gin or vodka do not float your boat, perhaps Seren’s Classic Gluten Free Brownie, the latest tasty little morsel to emerge from Bubbling Stove/ Charrington’s Deli, will? This award-winning piece of confectionery was described by judges as ‘harmonious and exquisite’ and will undoubtedly help put Seren Charrington-Hollins’ Welshpool business on the foodies’ map.
“A lovely colour and just the right amount of fizz.” That was the verdict of the judges on Radnor Hills’ Spring Water’s Heartsease Farm Apple & Rhubarb. “We loved the effervescence and fruity notes on the nose,” they added. “The drink is so refreshing, with the rhubarb notes arriving first and then the apple appearing and filling the mouth with wonderful, gentle fruitiness.”
Way out west, Cardigan Brewery Ltd’s acclaimed Dai P A Cloudy Mountain, is clearly brewing up a storm. Described as a ‘cloudy Mountain India pale ale with pine aromas and rich with a citrus fruit taste’ this fine beverage left Great Taste judges both suitably impressed and refreshed!
The number and quality of our Great Taste winners, coupled with the natural bounty of Wales, the hard work and skill of producers and the support available to them, bears testimony to a culinary success story.
So why not support them in the best way you can? By buying Welsh!
Wales has a long and proud tradition of producing outstanding food and drink, shaped by the Welsh landscape and honed by Wales’ culture, language and people. Now, that is comfort food for thought…
Discover a world of possibilities with Welsh food and drink: gov.wales/foodanddrinkwales
AS passionate about Welsh food and drink as he is about his beloved Cardiff City Football Club, Professor David Lloyd has enjoyed a grandstand view of Welsh cuisine’s inexorable rise to the Premier League over the past couple of decades.
And as newly appointed Chair of the Food and Drink Wales Industry Board (FDWIB), his long-term goal is to ensure that the Welsh industry’s remarkable rise to the top tier will be permanent and long-lasting.
“Yes, since I first became involved in the sector some 25 years ago there have been enormous changes in food culture,” he acknowledges in his office at Cardiff Metropolitan University, where he works as Director of the ZERO2FIVE Food Industry Centre.
“As far as the modern customer is concerned value no longer applies simply to money – it also relates to the entire food experience as well as the provenance of the product.
David Lloyd (Chair)
“So, these are the sort of qualities the more discerning consumer is now looking for. There has been a complete sea change.”
Having launched his career in the food industry in the laboratories of a major bakery based in Cardiff, David proceeded to work in various parts of the UK for a variety of major food companies as technical director.
He now works closely with both the private sector and Welsh Government. He advises on issues affecting the sector and has also influenced the Welsh Government’s Food Policy.
And Welsh food and drink could not have a more eloquent and committed champion. Reflecting on the challenges experienced during the turbulence of the Covid years, he feels strongly that Welsh food manufacturers, producers and retailers have never received their dues for riding out what was – combined with the effects of Brexit – a perfect storm.
“During Covid our workers were having to attend sites at a time when the media’s reporting of food processes was extremely negative,” he recalls. “Nothing threatened the supply chain like Covid, yet it held up.
“Everyone, from producers right down to supermarket workers who plugged away during the pandemic are unsung heroes in my book. We have a big manufacturing sector here in Wales and the food and drink sector is a critical part of our economy.”
Established in 2015, the Wales Food and Drink Industry Board provides advice to ministers and direction to the sector, sharing vital information towards ensuring sustainability, profitability and food safety throughout the industry.
A dozen-strong group of industry-experienced professionals come together for quarterly meetings interspersed with online get-togethers over the rest of the year.
“We take a very strategic view of the food industry and identify areas where there may be barriers restricting growth,” explains David. “At the same time, we are always seeking opportunities of expansion within the sector.
“Considering it consists of 18 different sub-sections, it is a very broad palette which is why we have such a diverse collection of experts overseeing matters.”
The Board’s raison d’etre, he says, is to operate as ‘a critical friend’ of the Welsh Government’s food and drink arm.
“Wales may have a magnificent system of support mechanisms, but we’re here to challenge whether the right issues are being addressed, while looking for ways to facilitate growth.
“Despite only meeting up for two to three days of every year, we also seek to ensure the flow of information into the Board is improved. How, for instance, do we standardise the data that’s coming in and engage with stakeholders to discuss interventions aimed at supporting the industry?”
Broadly speaking, the objectives of the FDWIB are to work in partnership with industry and government; develop markets, promote growth and safeguard our national resources; improve the perception of and promote and enhance Welsh food and drink; develop a skilled workforce in an innovative industry with the latest technology, and work within the spirit of the Wellbeing and Future Generations (Wales) Act 2015.
In addition, the Board seek to engage with other parts of the food chain, including agriculture, retail, food services and the hospitality sector. One of the biggest headaches the industry faces is the
need to attract more staff following the twin ravages of Brexit and Covid. “That is indeed a problem,” concedes David, “albeit one facing not just Wales, but other European countries.
“Fewer available staff will obviously affect overall production, so one of the things we need to do is examine the image on the sector as a whole.
“As food and drink is such an incredibly diverse sector there’s always a danger that producers can be left feeling somewhat isolated. This is where the need for
Alison and her husband David, started the Anglesey Sea Salt Co Ltd in 1997 and it is now one of the iconic Welsh food products exported to around 15 countries.
better communication is invaluable.
“Food and drink is a universal language; that brings communities together. We celebrate food from different cultures and think there’s definitely an opportunity to diversify the availability of such products.”
Between David and the Board’s ‘A team’ there is clearly a wealth of experience and know-how which can only help the Welsh food and drink sector continue to build on the huge strides it has made over recent years.
Mitchell
Alison Harvey
An Agri Supply Chain Advisor with Rural Advisor Co, Alison has over 15 years’ experience delivering high level customer service, project management, communications, and knowledge exchange across the UK red meat sector.
Andy Richardson
A partner in European Food and Farming Partnerships, Andy has over 30 years’ experience in the UK food and drink industry having worked in commercial roles in the animal feed industry for BOCM PAULS and, recently, for Volac. Andy chaired the Board from 2015 until 2023.
Graham Black
A non-executive Director of Seafish, Graham also chairs the Seafish Wales Advisory Committee which has representatives from across the seafood supply chain in Wales. Prior to this, Graham was Director of Marine Scotland.
Valerie Creusailor
With a career spanning over two decades, Valerie – Chief Executive Officer and Cofounder of Goch and Company – has played a pivotal role in advancing operational efficiency in both private and public sectors.
A Senior Manager for Social Farms & Gardens, the UK-wide charity who support communities to access land to grow food, Gary’s close relationship with food came as part of his work with Cultivate and Open Newtown, who hold one of the largest-ever community land transfers (from LA and WG).
Huw Thomas
Managing Director of Puffin Produce, Huw, a farmer’s son from Narberth, returned home to Pembrokeshire to run Puffin in 2009 following 20 years in agriculture-related research and strategy roles throughout the UK.
Margaret Ogunbanwo
Founder and Chief Executive Officer of North Wales-based Maggie’s Exotic Foods since 1997, Margaret established her own business after holding several management roles both within and outside the food industry.
Wright
CEO of Wrexham Lager Beer Company who in 2017 set up Aber Falls Distillery – the first whisky distillery in North Wales – James has over 25 years’ experience in the beer, wine and spirits industry and is an experienced director of Business Development and Strategy.
Jonathan Smith
Managing Director of Axis Management Consulting, who help food businesses to succeed with the UK’s grocery multiple retailers, Jonathan previously held a variety of marketing and commercial posts in St Ivel, RHM, and Procter & Gamble.
Don Thomas
CEO of Welsh Lamb and Beef Producers Ltd, who deliver accredited farm assurance schemes in Wales, Don is also the Executive Chairman of Quality Welsh Food Certification Ltd, an UKAS Accredited Certification body delivering ISO standard certifications.
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Retailers and producers unite to put Cambrian Mountains produce squarely on the map
REARING up like dragons acting as gatekeepers to the very heart of Wales, the Cambrian Mountains are an astoundingly beautiful part of our country.
So it should come as no surprise to learn that the very heart of Wales also has some astounding food and drink.
Straddling the rural counties of Ceredigion, Powys and Carmarthenshire this is a landscape dripping with Welsh history and heritage and where agriculture, culture, language and food production, are inextricably linked.
So if ever a region of Wales was befitting of ‘Croeso’, the Visit Wales’ theme for 2025, it is the Cambrian Mountains, where local retailers are proud to champion local producers with the overall aim of generating and re-generating in a mutual spirit of collaboration.
A killer combination of the region’s traditional farming scene, breathtaking geography and stunning unspoilt beauty, makes it a magnet for tourists, some of whom are drawn by its recently designated Dark Skies status. Never was the saying ‘a sense of place; a sense of taste’ more valid among hills whose scattered, closely-knit towns and villages boast an impressive array of choirs and eisteddfodau, makers and creators.
Small wonder that a unique spirit of co-operation thrives as illustrated by the joined-up thinking of the Cambrian Mountains food and drink network of producers and local produce champions. Set up to support local communities, the Cambrian Mountains Initiative CIC does not simply provide support for local producers inspired by the mountains, it also plays a pivotal role in brokering partnerships between them and retailers.
It was the nagging belief that the area’s produce lacked its own distinctive branding which led to the setting
up of these complementing networks in 2019. “I felt there was something missing,” recalls Projects Manager Dafydd Wyn Morgan.
Five years on he takes quiet satisfaction in the strides that have been made. “One of the benefits of establishing such networks has been to get people talking about established as well as new products,” explains Dafydd. “And a great many more have come onto the market since 2019.”
To step into Hafod Hardware, a traditional hardware shop in Rhayader, is like stepping back in time. Established in 1930, this family-run ironmongers has a product range that varies from day to day, while still offering a traditional shopping experience.
But while the shop itself may hark back to an earlier age, its outlook, objectives and philosophy are fully contemporary. Owner Tom Jones is a long-standing champion of Cambrian Mountain products; a strategy that has reaped myriad benefits.
“Local companies working hand-in-hand cuts out a lot of middlemen,” he says. “That’s one significant reason why local companies enjoy working together”.
“The fact is people love buying local products which don’t have a large carbon footprint and are sourced locally.”
“This also ties in with Rhayader’s reputation as the outdoors capital of Wales. The town is a popular tourist destination and visitors want local produce.
“You see customers smiling as they read the labels and find out where a particular product is sourced and how it is made. We make amazing products here in Mid Wales and want the rest of the world to know about them.”
Acclaimed chef James Martin’s recent glowing endorsement of Welsh Mountain Cider is staunch testimony to a Llanidloes-based off-grid sustainable family business who has the biggest museum orchard in Wales producing over 450 varieties of apple and pear.
The naturally fermented cider is live and unpasteurised and Welsh Mountain Cider’s ethos is ‘agriculture supported by community, not by grants’. Stargazing Cider, their most recent addition, has ‘as many flavours as there are stars in the sky’ – as befitting a bottle produced to celebrate the starry skies of the Cambrian Mountains.
Bill Bleasdale, who runs Britain’s highest altitude cider-works with his American wife Chava, enthuses about the close links between the area’s producers and retailers, not least their own with Great Oak Foods, of Llanidloes.
This celebrated local shop is situated so close to the cider orchard and fermenting plant that never has the
saying ‘from gate to glass’ seemed more apt.
“Supporting new and local businesses and the local economy is incredibly important to us,” says Chloe Wasserman, of Great Oak Foods, just three miles down the road.
“There’s minimum food miles, we know the cider is organic and how it’s been treated, plus we know the people behind it and trust them. Welsh Mountain Cider are just one of the several local businesses we support – the more local people we can work with, the better.”
However, Geoff Meredith, of Welshpool-based Morgans Brew Tea, concedes there are challenges living and running a business in such a beautiful part of Wales.
“We’re talking about an area which is very sparsely populated and the internet is a bit hit and miss,” he says.
“This is why the meetings Dafydd sets up between producers and retailers are so important. Face-to-face contact is vital, so we can pass on information to one another. It certainly saves me from scrolling through an internet I don’t have!”
Morgan’s Brew Tea emerged from a Shrewsbury tearoom where Geoff was approached by a group of regulars complaining at a dearth of places offering a decent cuppa. His response was to brew a greater variety of teas, subjecting them to the scrutiny of local connoisseurs at regular gatherings.
This prompted the move to Welshpool and launch of Morgan’s Brew Tea who now produce 54 loose leaf varieties. While Geoff acknowledges that the campaign to raise the profile of Cambrian Mountains products is ‘a war of attrition’, he senses it is working.
“I was watching the weather forecast on the telly the other night and the weatherman was talking about a front moving over the Cambrian Mountains,” he says. “I’d never heard them mention us on the weather forecast before – we’re finally on the map at last!”
Llanwrtyd Wells is said to be Britain’s smallest town and the Heart of Wales Brewery ‘the most micro of micro-breweries’, a label which brooks no argument from owner Lindsay Ketteringham who runs the business from the Neuadd Arms Hotel. “It’s just me!” he admits cheerfully.
The names of his ales – Welsh Black, Aur Cymru, Heart of Wales Bitter – illustrate just how much emphasis Lindsay places on the origins of the products.
“The place where a beer is actually brewed is very important,” he says.
“You can brew using the same ingredients from two different locations and end up with two very different
ales. Water and its minerals differ and I want our ales to be proper Cambrian Mountains beer, as traditional as possible.”
“It’s no good producing good stuff if there are no outlets to sell it. This is why developing solid ties with local retailers is essential.”
Radnor Preserves, a company judged as being among the best artisan marmalade makers in the world, are exceptional ambassadors for Cambrian Mountains produce.
Founded by Joanna Morgan in 2010, their produce is not only award-winning, but global. Radnor Preserves products now sell as far afield as Japan and delicious gems such as Dark Skies Preserve, Devilish Relish, and Pumlumon Marmalade all bear that unmistakable Cambrian Mountains stamp.
The latter inspired one Cambrian Mountains visitor to scale Ceredigion’s highest mountain. “Menna Lewis Griffiths, of Cambrian Mountains Glamping and Camping, prepares hampers including Radnor Preserves produce,” says Joanna.
“One of her guests pronounced Pumlumon Marmalade the best she’d ever tasted and was duly inspired to climb to the top of Pumlumon! Who would have thought a humble marmalade could do that?”
Mike Booth, Visitor Attractions Manager of Elan Valley Visitor Centre, acknowledges that businesses face daunting hurdles.
“It is hard sometimes to find new local suppliers, so discovery is often by word of mouth or by visiting other visitor attractions who work with local suppliers,” he says.
“However, we are very fortunate that the Cambrian Mountains Initiative brings together local producers and products and forges links with retail and catering business to actively promote local products.”
“The centre attracts over 180,000 visitors each year and is a first point of contact for many of the first-time visitors wanting to explore the area.”
Mary Davies, of Llangurig Post Office, agrees that a unified approach pays dividends.
“We are all independent small local businesses, trying to get by in a big business-dominated world,” she reflects. “We can’t possibly beat them at their own game, so support each other by working together.”
“In essence, I am their customer and they are ours. I promote them as they promote us.
“We make a considerable effort in knowing about locally made products. We know the owners and their lives and understand how much love and care is taken to create their products. It makes selling so much easier.”
“It also gives a great sense of pride to the locals, knowing what our small community can do for itself.”
Gwyneth Griffiths, who has run Bryncylla Farmhouse B&B for the past 25 years, includes produce from MAC Chocolates in welcome hampers for her guests.
“As we’re long-established a lot of our guests come back to enjoy, say, anniversaries or birthdays year after year,” she says. “It’s nice to have a great box of chocolates with which to greet them – that personal touch is so important.”
Miranda Whateley, of Rhayader-based MAC Chocolates, says her business is based on face-toface contact in order to discuss the requirements of individual outlets.
“Being the sole trader of my business, I have a very open mind and know what I can and can’t do with my chocolates,” she says. “I can create custom flavours on a need-by-need basis.”
“I advertise a lot on Instagram, TikTok, FB and my website, however much is done by word of mouth when I go to pop-up markets or events and people then reach out via messenger or email etc.”
“I have a lot of repeat custom for which I am forever grateful. I go that extra mile and will do anything within reason to help customers achieve that magic.”
Andy Wright, who set up Andy’s Bread bakery in Llanidloes in 2010, has always aimed to supply local retailers due to the long-held belief that a local food economy is massively important, especially in a rural area.
“I feel like customers come to the shop knowing they are not only buying some high-quality bread products, but also because they feel a connection as it has been produced locally,” he says.
“To me, circular money flows are really important so that the money stays in the local economy.”
Nerys Howell, renowned chef and food author, describes the Cambrian Mountains support network as ‘invaluable’ to small producers.
“Many have produced and branded their products specifically to complement the Area of Astounding Natural Beauty and the Dark Skies initiative such as the Stargazer Tea made by Morgan’s Brew Tea Company who specialise in offering an extensive range of perfectly blended teas and infusions,” she says.
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Sitting alongside one of the many wooden tables at Antur Brew Co, opposite the glistening stainless-steel tanks humming with the sound of beer brewing, is brewery owner Lance Van Dijk, and fellow local brewer, Adrián Moralles, of Sobremesa Drinks. The two, now good friends, are reflecting on how they met and how, quite by chance, they found themselves opening their individual craft beer businesses at the same time, and in the same small rural community, in the Black Mountains.
‘I was just setting up Antur Brew Co and had some excess brewing equipment to sell which I advertised on a local brewing group. Adrián saw the advert and got in touch when he realised that we were both located in the same postcode. We started chatting right from the very beginning’.
Adrián goes on ‘We went for a beer and as we’re both a similar age, with similar hobbies and working in the same industry, it didn’t take us long to become friends.’
Both Adrián and Lance relocated to the mountains following the pandemic – a period in which many chose to review their life choices and make a change. At the time, Lance, who grew up outside the market
town of Brecon, was based in Cornwall and working for another brewery. After spotting a niche in the market for a local craft micro-brewery, he and his partner decided to head back to Wales to be closer to family and soon after finding the perfect location to start his venture, Antur Brew Co was born. Meaning ‘adventure’ in Welsh, Lance chose the name ‘Antur’ to reflect the Welsh identity of the brand and used contours of the surrounding Bannau Brycheiniog on the labels to anchor the brand to a sense of place.
Having previously worked at a real ale brewery in Hereford, before moving on to a very modern brewery in Devon focussing on lager styles, Lance’s range at Antur Brew Co reflects his brewing heritage and includes IPA’s, lagers and pilsners which are all made with quality at the forefront, making use of the best ingredients and extending conditioning times to showcase modern takes on classic styles.
After launching in 2022, Lance soon realised he would outgrow his original site and in January this year, relocated to a larger space in Crickhowell. Here, Lance has been able to increase his brewing capacity from 500 litres to 2500 litres a week, a necessary growth which has required him to take on a brewing assistant and
allows him to supply both trade and local hospitality venues, as well as consumers at the tap room, online and at local markets.
Adrián’s venture, Sobremesa Drinks, which he cofounded with his Welsh partner, Alys, stems from a desire to develop drinks in the most sustainable way possible and the business is built on a circular economy model. Originally from Spain, Adrián moved to the UK and initially worked for a brewery in Cardiff (where he also set about learning English), before returning to Spain to continue his brewing journey in Pamplona. After a move to London, the pair decided on a change of lifestyle and unbeknown to them, began managing an apple orchard for cider making, as well as renting an acre of land to grow organic soft fruits, just down the road from Lance at Antur Brew Co. Initially travelling back and forth from London each weekend to tend their crops, they relocated to area in 2022, with the Sobremesa tap room opening its doors in Talgarth, in March 2023.
Adrián and Alys now produce a range of beers and ciders which are developed in line with their minimal intervention and locally sourced principles. ‘Our approach to cider making is simple: nothing added, nothing taken away. All our ciders are wild fermented with no added sulphites and left unfiltered, unfined and unpasteurised. The apples from our Vintage 2023 were handpicked from unsprayed orchards located with eight miles of our premises.’
Meanwhile, the plot of land where it all began is now bursting with berries and soft fruit – damsons, raspberries, loganberries, the improbably named ‘chuckleberry’ as well as red, white and blackcurrants (the site was previously a source of blackberries for Ribena), which Adrián supplies to local restaurants and uses for his fruit series beers. The land has also supplied Adrián with his own unique farmhouse yeast – the Rosalind Yeast, which he discovered on the bark of one of the oldest oak trees on the site and is now used to ferment their farmhouse style beers.
While setting up similar businesses in the same postcode, at the same time, could easily have resulted
in a competitive relationship, their different approaches and an easy friendship, has provided each with an ally and led to them collaborating from the outset. ‘We’re both unique – there is nothing like either of our projects in the area; we both offer different, unique experiences’, Lance explains.
Support for the businesses has also come in the form of Welsh Government programmes such as Cywain, which offers advice and mentoring to micro, small and medium food and drink businesses in Wales. Lance engaged with Cywain early on in his journey and encouraged Adrián to the same. ‘Cywain was a tremendous help to us from the start and having received support for branding and benefitting from advice when setting up the business, I immediately recommended the programme to Adrián’
As a result of engaging with Cywain, both businesses have had the chance to attend trade and consumer events which has helped them raise awareness of their brands; build their network of trade contacts and connect with other food and drink entrepreneurs in Wales.
Cywain programme manager, Alex James, explains that ‘Between July 2023 and October 2024, Cywain has supported 483 businesses, and the programme continues to grow and evolve, with increasing importance placed on helping entrepreneurs access expert advice directly from other businesses – for example through peer to peer mentoring. This helps foster a network of contacts and there is a real sense of our clients wanting to help others and see them succeed’.
Exemplifying this wider sense of community and support that exists within the food and drink arena in Wales, Adrián has recently joined forces with other Welsh businesses to develop a new product which aims to close the loop of the circular economy of his business.
Initially working with the Zero to Five project based at Cardiff Metropolitan University, Adrián wanted to find a way of repurposing the spent grain and fruit from his brewing processes. This led to a partnership Allie Thomas from Cradoc’s – a local company specialising in savoury crackers, who helped develop a cracker using the spent grain and fruit. The final product
combines Adrián’s spent grains, Pembrokeshire Gold rapeseed oil; Halen Môn salt from Anglesey, as well as flour made from the ancient Hen Gymro grain which is milled in Adrián’s local village, Talgarth. The crackers are now served in the Sobremesa tap room, giving customers a taste of how the circular economy model works.
‘With this product, we can tell people about circularity. People that come here to the tap room and eat the crackers, are actually eating all those grains, so they can see how a circular model works, as opposed to a linear system’.
Lance, for his part, has collaborated with other craft breweries and local producers to create limited edition beers with unique flavour profiles, such as the ‘El Dorado Smash’, which was made in partnership with Wales Ales. Most recently, Lance collaborated with Rate of Rise Coffee Roasters in nearby Abergavenny, to produce ‘Coffee Dunkel’ – a coffee laced dark lager, which is proving a real hit with customers.
Community is a word that comes up often in Adrián and Lance’s conversation, with both men recognising the benefits that come with being connected to the local area. Lance refers to the ‘fantastic community in Crickhowell’, while Adrián admits ‘We were feeling quite alone in London, whereas here, we feel part of the community and part of our job is to feed into that local community’.
While both businesses are thriving, Lance and Adrián admit that setting up a new business in a rural area doesn’t come without its challenges and they’ve had to work hard to bring people on board with their projects. ‘In rural areas, people tend to be more conservative in the way they eat and drink and as there isn’t much of a craft beer scene around here, educating people on what we do has definitely been a challenge’.
Adrián was keen to bring a Spanish vibe to the Welsh hills and at the tap room in Talgarth, locals and visitors now gather at the weekends to enjoy Sobremesa’s beers and ciders and to share plates of locally sourced cheese and charcuterie. ‘The project is an obvious nod to my
Spanish heritage and the time I spent living in northern Spain. Sobremesa is a fantastic word that doesn’t easily translate into English but is the time you spend at the table after food - drinking and chatting with the people you are with. It resonates with how I want our products to be enjoyed; with good company and without rushing.’
For Lance, education and awareness began by selling at local markets where he could engage directly with consumers. Regularly attending popular foodie markets, such as the one in nearby Abergavenny, has helped build a loyal following which has fed into the success and popularity of the new brewery in Crickhowell. Here, in addition to making and selling his beers, he regularly collaborates with locally run street food trucks, including The Mex Co and Hills Burgers from Brecon, who station themselves outside the brewery once or twice a week. The weekends are buzzing with locals and visitors enjoying delicious food alongside Lance’s beers. With the piled-up pallet tables and a warehouse vibe, the resulting atmosphere is more reminiscent of an East London hang out than an industrial estate on the edge of a small, mid-Wales town. But that’s part of its magic.
This year has brought in big changes for Lance and Antur Brew Co, with the relocation to a larger site marking a new beginning for the brand. ‘Since moving to Crickhowell, it’s been fantastic for us. The footfall has been great, we’re doing tap room pop-ups constantly and we’re really excited to see what will happen for us in the future’.
Having recently sent his first export order to Japan, Adrián is focussed on expanding the drinks side of the business, as well as developing the taproom and campsite he and Alys now run at Lower Porthamel farm. ‘We’re trying to create this place as a destination, not only for beer and cider drinkers, but also for people who want to enjoy the beauty of the rural location alongside locally sourced food and drink’.
As their respective futures unfold, there is no doubt these two friends will continue to support each other along the way.
Heavily dry hopped but easy drinking, with the big hitting American hops bringing a juicy mouthful of fruity, mango and tropical notes.
Light, crisp and refreshing with a real citrus punch, our pale is the ideal session drinker and is the perfect beer to suit any palate.
Our hoppy pale ale brewed with organic oats from Pimhill, heritage flaked spelt from Craggs & Co and British Hops: Olicana and Jester and generously dry hopped with Harlequin and Jester.
A tribute to the classic German ‘Helles’, a true, clean drinking and malt-forward Lager. Marrying the highest quality British grains with German noble hops to create a lager with real depth.
A deep amber/red colour with crisp and moreish malt character, our ‘New’ Altbier is a modern twist on a German classic. ***3 Star Great Taste Winner.
The best of both worlds – a complex dark malt base combined with a heavy addition of juicy American hops. Malty, biscuit, coffee notes accented with citrus, mango, stonefruit character for a dark beer with a difference.
A new world pilsner fermented extra cold and conditioned for a further three weeks for a crisp, clean lager base. Juicy, hop-forward, refreshing beer.
A truly unique flavour profile; the classic crisp, caramel malt character of a Dunkel, balanced with a Brazilian honey roast coffee carefully selected by Jim from Rate of Rise.
Crisp and refreshing German pilsner style lager brewed with British floor malt from Warminster Maltings, heritage flaked spelt from Craggs & Co and British hops from Charles Farams: Boadicea and Jester. Fermented with Weihenstephan yeast strain.
Using Maris Otter from Warminster Maltings, 5 different crystal and roasted malts from Simpsons Malt plus organic oats from Pimhill Farm to create this opaque, rich, silky and smooth dark ale. Hopped with Boadicea and fermented with a dry British Ale strain.
Welsh Heritage Apple Series
Brith Mawr Single Variety
Cadwalader Single Variety
Perthyre Single Variety
Loganberry Saison
Blackcurrant Saison
Denbigh Plum Saison
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Dylan omas would be proud of Swansea’s food and drink
To begin at the beginning, it is a truth universally acknowledged that Swansea is the European city set on the loveliest bay. (Sort yourself out, Naples: it doesn’t always have to be about you.) Unlike Cardiff, Liverpool or Bristol, Swansea is bordered by beach as much as docks and the ozone fresh air pervades the whole place, making the visitor hungry. If you’re unfamiliar with the area, your first stop should be the top of the Meridian tower, where Altitude 28 have just opened their aptly named Skybar, the ideal place to watch the Northern Lights in comfort with a drink in your hand.
The next essential stop on a food tour of Swansea is the celebrated Kardomah Café, frequented by Dylan Thomas and his friends in the 1930s. Originally an international brand with branches from Blackpool to Paris, Swansea’s classic café has survived not only the Blitz but also the attentions of urban developers and has been run by the Luporini family since the 1970s. Famous for its Formica and its wonderful staff, the Kardomah doesn’t rely on nostalgia: the food is as delicious as the decor. My own favourite is the cawl, but if you have their Welsh breakfast on a Saturday, it features local cockles. The Kardomah proudly continues the great Italo-Welsh tradition of taking coffee seriously: Marcus Luporini founded the Gower Coffee company to provide not only a great range of wholesale blends but also coffee machine servicing and valuable advice to start-ups. No wonder café culture is booming in the area with the Kardomah stretching a protective wing over the newcomers.
Cockles also feature in the menu of the Secret Beach Bar and Kitchen which enjoys a superb location overlooking the bay at Brynmill. I hadn’t intended to have a starter before my beef Sunday lunch, but the mussel and cockle popcorn was irresistible after a brisk walk in the sea air. It’s famously dog friendly and my companion’s lurcher, Bonny, enjoyed her Dewkes dog treats, though the beach vistas made her eager to be up and back out. I chose a Gower Brewery ruby ale, Rumour, which was full-flavoured, blending a caramel depth with a sharp finish: I was glad we had a good walk planned for the afternoon or I might have found it a bit heavy for the middle of the day. My wise companion chose the Butterfly Effect Zero Alcohol
Cocktail, which looked appropriately blue for our seaside location.
Another ideal stop after a coastal stroll is the Bay View on Oystermouth Road. The bustling pub atmosphere might lead you to believe that this is an unremarkable, though good, local. However, the authentic Thai food makes the Bay View far more than that. The remarkable value for money and the variety encourages tapas style sharing.
For the last six months, the always popular Shed has been busier than ever. Those who did not need Grace Dent’s Guardian piece to help them find their way down to Jonathan Woolway’s space down at the Waterfront can permit themselves a superior smile, but the Shed has long had a solid reputation, building on Woolway’s experience at St John. But Shed isn’t a pale, regional take on metropolitan glory: Woolway has built a sense of place belied by the slightly utilitarian interior. I felt obliged to start with the Crispy Pig’s Skin with Ketchup in the hope that it would evoke the grilled trotters of my childhood: it was a piggy delight but meant I sat out the first course. My companion chose the skate, paired with fragrant fennel: the texture of the fish was exceptionally delicate. My Gower Salt Marsh Lamb was haunted by the sea, so carefully cooked that I swear I could taste the sorrel and the mint sauce was an aromatic, garden-fresh accompaniment, a world away from the bright acidic gloop which so often mars lamby meals. My companion, after some persuasion, opted for the rabbit: like many rural people, the shadow of myxomatosis had taken that option off his usual game menu but the pairing of the darkly complex meat with chorizo and mojo verde worked beautifully and justified my confidence. I finished my meal with Plum Sorbet and half of my companion’s Bara Brith which was paired with Heritage Teifi which was showing its age gloriously. I am normally rather allergic to chef’s mottos, but Woolway lives up to his desire to be full in heart and generous in spirit.
If you can’t make it to Shed, remember that Gower Salt Marsh Lamb is always within reach: their delivery service now includes a subscription service. Imagine
never running the risk of having no salt marsh lamb left in your freezer: eat your heart out Sky and Netflix.
Another Swansea favourite winning plaudits from critics and local diners alike is Truffle, with its enchanting ambience and excellent food. The beef short rib is justly renowned and the options for veggies imaginative: it’s worth noting the wide range of gluten free options. The prices are extraordinarily reasonable: one of their affordability strategies is Bring Your Own Booze, a policy which gives customers the freedom to make their own wine selections. This delivers freedom as well as value: it’s up to you to pair the wines you like best with your favourites from the Truffle menu.
Slice, the chef-led upstairs Mecca for the foodies of Sketty is a strong contender for the best meal in Swansea. People rightly rave about the pigeon Wellington, the crab pannacotta or the Wagyu fillet but there is as much thought put into the truffle scented cauliflower as into the meaty mains. Slice clientele really value being greeted by chefs Chris Harris and Adam Bannister, who display their passion in all they do. Do book well ahead: you have to be a very lucky walk-up to just stroll into Slice.
There are plenty of options in Swansea for fans of Greek food: I followed a friend’s recommendation and went to ‘Greek Flavours’ on the Kingsway. The word ‘authentic’ is sadly overused but stepping into ‘Greek Flavours’ is like a loop back to good holiday eating, though Swansea cannot reliably provide the same quantities of golden sunshine. The offers incorporating one of the celebrated gyros are always popular and their Greek mixed grill is a great introduction to their menu: described as for two people to share, I would suggest that they would be two fairly good trenchermen as the choice is certainly on the hearty side. I went for the stifado, which reminded me of the sort of casserole one used to get in small places in France twenty years ago: unpretentious, punchy and excellent value for money. The Orange Pie had a similar authentic vibe. The proprietor clearly knows both his roots and his market very well: he had been catering for visitors to Uplands Market for many years and has extended his scope without losing an ounce of his trademark authenticity. Many of Alexander’s satisfied customers describe ‘Flavours’ as the best Greek food in Wales and they could be right.
Retail research has established that the type of shopping we enjoy most is a market. Low in cost and high in banter, we seem to relax and explore in market environments. Markets were once neglected but now their magnetic qualities are better understood, investment has further enhanced the customer experience: cities like Swansea now boast the markets they deserve. Food lovers might have high expectations for Swansea market and they will not be disappointed: what’s not to like about a development centring on a ‘cockle rotunda’? Three generations of the Swistun family have run the stall which stocks a wide range of top-quality local seafood as well as the celebrated Penclawdd cockles and the laverbread without which no Swansea breakfast is complete. But good fish doesn’t require a rotunda, of course, and The Market Plaice were awarded the Welsh Independent Retail Awards Fishmonger of the Year prize. One of the peculiarities of the food scene in this part of the world often noted by visitors from more pretentious places is the status of sea bass: historically blessed with plentiful local supplies, this king of fish is seen as suitable for all, liberated from the chi-chi dining tables and sizzling in the pans of every Swansea Jack. The Market Plaice embodies this popularism: great quality fish at prices everyone can afford.
The market is also well blessed with bakery stalls: my favourite is Jan Evans’ bright corner. In this ugly, lovely town where word of mouth is king, Jan must be doing something right to sell three thousand Welsh cakes a week. She’s also revived the local speciality known as ‘bara planc’, another treat made on the bakestone which occupies the hinterland between bread and cake.
And then there is Joes, which has probably now overtaken Dylan Thomas as the town’s most celebrated product. Another glorious inheritor of the ItaloWelsh tradition, Joe’s punchy motto, ‘Everything Else is Just Ice cream’ is fully justified by its cult status. I sometimes encounter benighted fools who can’t believe ‘just’ vanilla ice cream could be that special and my advice to them is to have a North Pole and get over themselves: the mouth feel of Joe’s alone would justify the hype, let alone the flavour.
Swansea is a town where innovation and tradition live side by side. Fringed by green hills and throwing its loving arms around a great slice of sea, enterprise and the desire to build upon the past have created a food scene which certainly has a lot to offer.
Wrexham Lager Beer Co Ltd, the oldest lager brewery in Britain, have appointed Wrexham soccer chiefs Rob McElhenney and Ryan Reynolds as new co-owners alongside the Roberts family.
And although Wrexham Lager is already available in Australia and Scandinavia, the Hollywood duo have now revealed it will soon be available in the United States and Canada with many more international markets in their sights.
The news has created a large amount of interest in the company from overseas and chief executive James Wright confirms they are seeking new, larger headquarters in Wrexham city centre to increase production.
The new signings were made by Red Dragon Ventures, a twin venture formed by The R R McReynolds Company and the Allyn family, of Skaneateles, New York, to promote the Wrexham community and Wrexham AFC.
The move is expected to significantly boost the infrastructure and international production, distribution and marketing efforts of a company that has brewed in Wales since 1882.
“As co-chairmen of Wrexham AFC we have learned a lot,” said Rob McElhenney and Ryan Reynolds.
“The connection between club and community, the intricacies of the offside rule and the occasional need for beer – especially after finance meetings!
“Wrexham Lager has a 140-year-old recipe and a storied history and we’re excited to help write its next chapter.
The Roberts family, who have owned and operated the business since 2011, will maintain an active role within the business. www.wrexhamlager.com
South Wales-based butter manufacturer Castle Dairies have joined the big league following the nationwide launch of their award-winning Welsh Salted Block Butter (250g) in Sainsbury’s stores across the UK.
This means that for the first time the Caerphilly-based company’s products will be available to customers right across the country.
The family-run business with over half-a-century of butter-making expertise is renowned for high-quality Welsh dairy products.
Their Welsh Salted Block Butter – winner of a Great Taste Award – is crafted with churned and hand-salted Welsh cream to achieve its famous rich, creamy texture and a balanced taste.
“We are excited to bring our Welsh Salted Block Butter to Sainsbury’s shoppers nationwide,” said Managing Director Nigel Lloyd. “This is a significant step for our brand, allowing us to share the true taste of Wales with a wider audience.” www.castledairies.co.uk
Wales will host the world’s premier culinary event in 2026 – and the clock is now ticking after Culinary Association of Wales chiefs were handed the Worldchefs Congress & Expo bell in Singapore.
The CAW stage the global event – which is held every two years and attracts thousands of chefs – at ICC Wales, Newport from May 16-19, 2026.
President Arwyn Watkins said: “This is not only a significant moment for the Culinary Association of Wales and ICC Wales, but also our nation as we showcase the rich culinary heritage and innovation to Wales.
“We understand the importance of this prestigious event bringing together chefs, culinary experts and industry leaders from across the globe to share knowledge, experience and passion for culinary arts.
“In Wales, we are inspired by our traditions, but also fuelled by forward-thinking vision. The next Worldchefs Congress & Expo will be a blend of these two forces.
“Expect to see the finest expressions of Welsh cuisine and global flavours, trends and innovations that will inspire future generations of chefs.”
www.culinaryassociation.wales
The provenance of honey produced by Welsh companies such as award-winning Carmarthenshirebased Gwenyn Gruffydd (gwenyngruffydd.co.uk) is more vital than ever with honey fraud remaining a major issue in Europe.
Bernhard Heuvel, president of the European Professional Beekeepers Association, claims that up to 80 per cent of honey sold is adulterated, with many products in German supermarkets priced at just 3.86 euros per kilogram, making it impossible for honey producers to compete.
As a result, genuine producers are facing ruin due to a ‘tidal wave’ of counterfeit honey – little more than sugar syrup with bee/honey enzymes added – which gullible consumers are opting for instead of savouring the real thing and its superior taste and accompanying health benefits which can include reducing hay fever.
Mr Heuvel estimates that in some countries up to 75 per cent of professional beekeepers have been forced to quit as bee numbers plunge.
“Sufficient pollination is endangered so the consequences for nature are as severe as climate change,” he adds.
In a bid to raise money for BBC Children in Need, the co-founders of a north Devon dairy are driving a Tuk-Tuk adorned with a giant wedge of cheese from their Bideford headquarters to the Orkney Islands in Scotland.
And on their way David Evans and Kevin Beer stopped
off in Pwllheli to visit the nation’s largest co-operative dairy, South Caernarfon Creameries (sccwales.co.uk).
“It was a great sight watching them arrive,” said Shon Jones, of SCC. “As master cheese graders, they had the opportunity to meet our team, taste our cheeses, and share our passion for high-quality dairy products.”
Meanwhile, SCC’s Technical Compliance Officer Lois Williams has graduated with a Master of Science (MSc) in BioInnovation from Aberystwyth University.
The 25-year-old is now set to be a part of measuring the creamery’s baseline carbon footprint by working closely with its farmer members and continue achieving the Welsh Green Dragon Environmental Standard Level 4.
Blas y Tir milk (blasytir.com) is set to make a splash in the nation’s supermarkets with the news that Tesco will be the first to stock the recently-launched product which is Welsh for ‘Taste of the Land’.
It was launched in July by Pembrokeshire Creamery, the only BRCGS-accredited liquid milk facility in Wales.
The creamery proudly produces 100 per cent Welsh milk for retailers in Wales – milk from Welsh cows, fed on Welsh pasture then processed and bottled in Pembrokeshire.
The acclaimed new milk is now available in two-litre bottles as semi-skimmed and whole milk in around 55 Tesco Superstores and Tesco extras throughout Wales. Blas y Tir is a brand created by Pembrokeshire Creamery’s sister-business Puffin Produce under which it supplies Welsh produce, such as Pembrokeshire Earlies PGI and Welsh Leeks PGI grown by local farmers and packed in Wales.
Ceredigion company In the Welsh Wind (inthewelshwind.co.uk/) are celebrating the launch of their Second Release Whisky buoyed by the remarkable sell out of bottles allocated to their online pre-sale. They were made available to individuals who have expressed a particular interest in the pioneering Distillery’s whisky releases.
Co-founder Ellen Wakelam said: “We had an idea our Second Release whisky would prove popular, especially as we only have a few hundred bottles available in this release, but we’ve been blown away by how quickly the bottles allocated to the pre-sale have sold. We’re looking forward to our Distillery Open Day when we will have the remaining bottles from this release available to buy on a ‘first come first served’ basis.”
Grounds For Good (groundsforgood.co.uk) are celebrating the news they have received a Great British Food Wales Region Award for ‘exceptional dedication to sustainability, ethical practices, and innovative products’.
By re-purposing used coffee grounds, they minimise waste and promote a circular economy. The company’s
eco-friendly approach extends through every aspect of their business, from sourcing to packaging. However, it is their standout product, Grounds For Good Gin, crafted with infused coffee grounds, creating a unique flavor profile that’s both bold and refreshing, which has seen them hailed as trailblazers within the industry.
Fans of Monty’s Brewery (www.montysbrewery.co.uk), Mid Wales-based award-winning creators of Welsh beers, ales and stouts, are toasting the news that entrepreneur Mike Harris has acquired a 51 per cent stake in the company.
The thriving Montgomery-based brewery have collected a range of awards for their exceptional range of products in recent years.
The acquisition is the first brewery acquisition made by Mike Harris’s investment arm Ubuntu Holdings Ltd, with others expected to follow.
“Monty’s Brewery have an excellent range of products on offer, frequently enjoyed by those across Powys and beyond,” he said.
Russ Honeyman, commercial director at Monty’s Brewery said: “Mike has always had strong visions for the local area and community as highlighted through his incredible work with The New Saints FC.”
The Single Malt Whisky brewed by Aber Falls (www.aberfallsdistillery.com) was adjudged the best Welsh Single Malt Whisky in the Wales Distilled Awards. There were twin celebrations for the North Wales company when their Rye Whisky captured the Welsh Whisky award.
The Welsh Dry Gin award went to Afallon Mon (afallonmon.com), while the Blackcurrant Gin of Cariad (cariadgin.co.uk) was recognised in the Welsh Modern Gin category.
The Welsh Sloe Gin crown was awarded to Elevenses (elevensesdistillery.co.uk) and Cariad’s Welsh Vodka earned them their second success.
The Spiced Rum of Anglesey Mon (storibeers.wales/ trade/producer/anglesey-mon-distillery) carried off the Welsh Distilled Rum award as the Celtic Spirit Company’s Beekeepers Tipple (celticspirit.co.uk) triumphed in the Welsh Bottled Rum class. Anglesey’s Mon Brandy was the judges’ choice in the Welsh Brandy section and Ceredigion-based In The Welsh Wind (inthewelshwind.co.uk) blew in to take gold with their Paulo Cortado Gin in the Welsh Barrel Aged Spirit class.
Derw’s Coffee Liquor (derwcoffee.co.uk) was adjudged the best Welsh Liquor, while the Black Mountain Apple and Blackcurrant of the Celtic Spirit Company wowed judges of the Welsh Fruit Liquor entries.
The gold medal for best Welsh Spirit went to the Welsh Organic Absinthe, of Ceredigion’s Da Mhile (damhile. co.uk), who also pocketed the Welsh Distillery of the Year award.
Also celebrating was Distiller of the Year, Simon Ollman, of Cariad, and New Business of the Year, Beech Avenue (beechavenuedrinks.co.uk), while Best Branding went to Cascave (cascavegin.co.uk).
The Welsh Government Food & Drink Wales Sustainability Cluster have announced a series of breakfast meetings bringing businesses and experts together across Wales over the coming months. Boasting over 100 members from across the food and drink industry, along with government bodies and 30 academic organisations, the Cluster supports sustainable practices across the agri-food industry using the successful triple helix approach with government, industry and academia.
The next meeting takes place at Coaltown Coffee Roasters, Ammanford, on Tuesday, February 11.
Put the X in Xmas for man’s (and woman’s) best friend with Dewkes’ premium, all-natural dog treats. From savoury Chicken Jerky to delicious Fishy Bites and long-lasting Beefy Sticks, there’s something to delight every dog and with their new Christmas Gift packs your furry friend won’t feel left out.
Crafted with high-quality, responsibly sourced ingredients and free from artificial additives, Dewkes treats are the perfect way to show your pooch some Christmas love and are guaranteed to keep tails wagging. www.dewkes.co.uk
After two years of hard graft, a fair few up and downs and criss-crossing Wales, the UK and Europe, to find the perfect solution, Cradoc’s have realised their ambition of launching a gluten free cracker that tasted as good, and had the same crunch, as their universally loved core range. Since launching at the Farm Shop and Deli show, their new gluten free crackers have been a huge success, with retailers flocking to buy them.
So much so, that they’ve had to build a dedicated gluten free bakery to cope with demand. The new bakery is now up and running like clock-work. And just in time too, with Christmas around the corner and as coeliacs and foodies with a gluten intolerance discover just how good these crackers are. Praise has been gushing, with customers remarking “millions of Gluten Freers are searching for deliciousness and these three crackers ARE delicious” or “At last, a gluten free cracker with crunch and some strong flavour, these are a joy to eat!”. Cradoc’s founder, Allie, even got a telling off from one sufferer for ‘not shouting from the rooftops’ about how good they were.
And their success has got the team at Cradoc’s thinking about the next step, with plans being considered for dairy free crackers too. Watch this space.
www.cradocssavourybiscuits.co.uk
Food and drink companies from across Wales are being invited by the Welsh Government to register their interest for next October’s Blas Cymru / Taste Wales 2025 brokerage ‘meet the buyer’ event, at the ICC Wales in Newport.
First launched in 2017 and held on a bi-annual basis since, it has become a signature event for the food and drink industry, bringing together producers, suppliers, buyers, and food industry professionals from across the world.
Hive Mind have made a name for themselves crafting a variety of drinks that showcase the unique qualities of honey—everything from traditional meads and honey beers to sparkling modern meads and honeyinfused spirits. They’re excited to introduce Honeyade, a brand-new range of sparkling soft drinks launching this January from Hive Mind. These refreshing drinks are sweetened with honey, not sugar or artificial sweeteners, and made with just three simple ingredients: honey, sparkling water, and natural fruit flavours. There’ll be two delicious flavours initially: Just Honey—a pure, smooth taste that lets the honey shine, and Lime, Mint & Honey—a zesty, refreshing blend that’s perfect for any occasion. But stay tuned: they’ve got two more exciting flavours coming in the spring! www.hivemindmead.com
PGI Welsh Beef is the optimum choice throughout the winter months and in the lead up to Christmas. Whether it’s for a family feast, festive canapes or hearty winter suppers, PGI Welsh Beef offers something for every occasion.
Research has shown that one of the things households in Wales look forward to most about Christmas is the food so, with that in mind, Welsh red meat promotion body Hybu Cig Cymru – Meat Promotion Wales recently launched their Welsh Beef campaign – Welsh Beef: Naturally Local just in time for the festive season. The campaign will highlight the high-quality and sustainable production methods which go into producing Welsh Beef for families across Wales to enjoy. It puts Welsh farmers front and centre, championing their year-round hard work to produce delicious, high quality Welsh Beef. Brothers Ben & Ethan Williams from south Wales and Alwyn Phillips from north Wales feature in the campaign, alongside Wales’ iconic mountainous landscape, of course. This year’s campaign takes a multi-media approach including television adverts on ITV and S4C, a radio campaign across Heart North and South Wales stations as well as social media and digital content. Keep an eye out too for an outdoor advert also in the vicinity of Welsh Beef retailers and in Cardiff during the Autumn International rugby games.
For festive recipe ideas, information about Welsh farming practices and where you can purchase Welsh Beef head to www.eatwelshlambandwelshbeef.com or follow PGI Welsh Beef on Facebook and Instagram.
Location, location, location. It’s almost as true of restaurants as it is houses. Whilst a great chef serving fabulous food can sometimes be enough, when that’s allied to a stunning vista in an easily accessible and beautiful part of the world, you have a winner. And so it is with Dulse at Ty Hotel in Milford Haven Marina.
With floor to ceiling windows and overlooking the Marina’s bobbing yachts and fishing boats, it’s no surprise that Celtic Collection executive chef, Simon, didn’t waste any time in seizing the opportunity to return to his native Pembrokeshire, when the collection announced their plans to open Ty Hotel. Nor did he waste any time in implementing his vision for what the new restaurant would be, naming it Dulse, after the seaweed that’s harvested along the local coast. That vision, to celebrate Pembrokeshire and its abundant produce is woven through the menu, which, though quietly ambitious, leans deliberately towards casual, rather than fine, dining. Simon wants Dulse to have as broad appeal as possible.
This relaxed vibe is also reflected in the classic, Italian design influenced restaurant layout: diner style with open areas and booths that make the most of the huge windows and reflections that shimmer across
the water, With the sound of live music drifting in from the adjacent bar, it’s the perfect backdrop as we survey the menu, nibbling on scrummy chilli bread (from the bakery a few doors down the quay), moreish home-blended seaweed (Dulse of course) butter and delightful olives.
My plump, local scallops were perfectly seared, giant pearls of sweetness, the accompanying crunchy strips of apple and parsnip were a textural counterpoint and amplified the sweetness. All set off by Simon’s take on chip shop curry sauce, which was anything but – complex, rich with a hint of five spice. A great, beautifully presented, starter. B’s Onion and Pembrokeshire Cider soup was the perfect antidote to a crisp autumn night – warming, gently sweet but with a sharpness courtesy of the dry cider, and an earthy depth of flavour. Having it poured from a teapot at the table, added a gentle touch of fun.
My main of Sea Bass, landed at Pembroke Dock across the Cleddau, was so fresh it could have just leapt from the estuary to the kitchen. Firm and flaky, with a lovely buttery flavour, it was served with subtly salty and herby samphire, and local, gently pickled fennel to add texture and taste contrast. The Bisque gravy was the finishing touch, deeply flavourful and with a lush richness courtesy of a hint of aniseed. B’s beautifully vivid Aubergine main was a riot of colours that instantly drew a smile. The gentle smokiness of the aubergine gave way to an umami hit from the Miso glaze and pomegranate added a spikey sweetness to create layers of thoughtful, well-crafted flavours.
To wrap up, I went for the Italo-Welsh influenced Pear and Almond tart with Welsh Honey and Amaretto Ice Cream. Classic crusty, shortcrust pastry with deliciously sweet frangipane filling, and that unique muskiness you can only get from pear, all taken to another level by the almond hit of the locally made ice cream and the butterscotch richness of the honey. B went ultra traditional, with surprise, surprise, a Welsh twist. Her Sticky Toffee pudding was a masterclass in comfort puds. The rich, sweet, light sponge was exactly as it should be, the Barti Ddu rum and toffee sauce added warmth and spice and the salted caramel ice cream, from Scoops along the quay, capped proceedings with a creamy, cold, salty contrast. No wonder it’s stayed on the menu since Dulse launched. A fine way to finish.
Dulse is a great example of a trend that’s being seen across Wales. More and more restaurants want to put local, Welsh produce at the heart of what they offer, and do it in a way that appeals to a wider audience. In situating Dulse, both geographically and culinarily in the heart of Pembrokeshire, Simon and Dulse do this brilliantly.
Dulse Restaurant, Ty Hotel, Milford Waterfront, Sybil Way, Milford Haven SA73 3AA www.ty-hotels.com
No run of the mill roadside pit stop, Llys Meddyg Hotel and Restaurant sits invitingly bedecked with lights and enticing signage as you enter the lovely town of Newport, Pembrokeshire if travelling south from Cardigan. Offering a unique dining experience using fresh, local and foraged ingredients, the Secret Garden pods located outside at the back of the restaurant in a green, wooded setting with atmospheric lighting are great little places to have a more intimate meal.
The restaurant prides itself on its use of organic and locally foraged foods and a focus on high quality products from artisanal farmers and growers who respect their land and nature. They’ve also created a fantastic wine list from talented growers who have an utmost respect for nature and sustainable practices that promote biodiversity and sustain soil health. It was with great anticipation then and rumbling tums after a recent (and highly recommended) hike around the stunning Dinas Head that R and I looked forward to sampling the menu – we weren’t disappointed.
We pushed the boat out a little first by going for a couple of the tantalising cocktails on offer to whet the appetites. R went for the tangy Amaretto Sour with fresh lemon and egg white and I plumped for the Llys Mountain Spritz – a fresh and heartwarming wild rosehip mountain spirit with prosecco, soda and orange slices. As an added treat, and to replace a few of the calories burnt around Dinas, we couldn’t resist the fantastic sour dough with miso butter – soft and light bread complemented with a sumptuous umami butter. Highly recommended.
On to the main menu, R’s earthy, fresh and light melt in your mouth Mackerel, horseradish and beetroot starter was a beautiful combination both in presentation and taste. The grounding beetroot intermingled perfectly on the rustic plate with a generous portion of locally caught Mackerel. The beet juxtaposing nicely with the subtle oily texture of the fish. I joined her with the understated fresh on the palate Heirloom tomatoes, charred Nevern cucumber and Llys Meddyg ricotta. The tomatoes were subtly arranged with a lightly tangy vinaigrette, herbs and the smooth cheese. We decided to follow the wine pairing recommendations on the menu with R having a glass of the appropriately named Entre Mer et Montagne (Newport beach and Carningli springs to mind!) Languedoc and I had the lovely smooth, white Sicilian Grillo Angelo.
Our mains kept up the pace, R’s delicate shoulder of Welsh Lamb with lamb belly and local Dolwerdd feta with a stunning organic Montalto Nero d’Avola wine pairing was as she described “subtle and delicious” and again very thoughtfully presented. I went for the Hake (Fish of the Day) perfectly matched with shrimp and sauce vierge paired with the lovely Entre Mer. We complemented the mains with some tasty sides including the not-to-be- missed local Pembrokeshire new potatoes with potato dashi and chives, morish
Roasted carrots with hummus and salsa verde, and some life affirming Chargrilled tender stem broccoli.
We finished the evening with two gorgeous desserts. R going for the perfectly light meringue with baked plums and clotted cream ice cream and I taking a punt on the silky yoghurt panna cotta with strawberry and smoked almond. All in all, the whole meal from start to finish blended seamlessly to deliver a very satisfying smorgasbord in a delightful setting. The secret garden location was, we were told, once the location for a very successful market garden – delivering as far a field as Covent Garden Market in London. The owners have truly paid homage to that heritage. If you are ever passing through Newport, Pembs be sure to call in to Llys Meddyg – it won’t disappoint.
Llys Meddyg, East Street, Newport, Pembrokeshire SA420SY +44 (0)1239 820008 info@llysmeddyg.com www.llysmeddyg.com
Prep time: 20 mins
Cook time: 3 hrs 30 mins
Serves: 5+
• 1kg PGI Welsh Beef braising steak, cut into thin slices
• 3 tbsp oil
• 2 onions, thinly sliced
• 4 cloves garlic, crushed
• 300g carrots, chopped
• Salt and pepper
• 300ml red wine
• 300ml beef stock or water
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 tbsp fresh thyme leaves
• 300g fresh or frozen cranberries
• 180g cooked chestnuts
1. Preheat oven to 150°C / 130°C fan / Gas 2.
2. Heat 1 tbsp of oil in a casserole dish and cook the onions for about 5 minutes, stir in the garlic and carrots and cook for another 5 minutes.
3. Add the remaining oil to a frying pan, season the beef with salt and pepper and brown on both sides before adding to the casserole.
4. De-glaze the fry pan with the red wine, scraping all the sediment off the bottom. Pour over the beef along with the stock, bay leaf and thyme leaves. Cover and cook in the oven for 2 hours. Stir in the cranberries and chestnuts and return to the oven for a further 1 hour until the beef is tender.
5. Remove from the oven and serve with mashed potatoes and celeriac and steamed greens.
Prep Time: 15 mins
Cook Time: 3hrs
Serves: 4
Ingredients
• 4 PGI Welsh Lamb shanks
• 1 tbsp oil
• 1 white onion – finely chopped
• 1 carrot – finely chopped
• 1 celery stalk – finely chopped
• 3 garlic cloves – crushed
• 1 rosemary stalk
• 1 small bunch thyme
• 1 tbsp tomato paste
• 500ml red wine
• 1 litre of good quality lamb stock
• 375g of all butter puff pastry rolled out until 4mm thick
• 1 egg – lightly beaten
• Plain flour to roll out pastry
Method
1. Pre heat the oven to 180’c
Lamb:
2. Season the lamb shanks with salt and pepper
3. Heat half your oil in a casserole pan or deep saucepan and brown the shanks until golden all over (should take approximately 6 minutes)
4. Remove lamb from pan and add the remaining oil then celery, carrots and onion on a medium heat. When softened and golden, add tomato puree and herbs (thyme and rosemary), cook out the puree for 30 seconds and add the red wine.
5. Reduce for 5-6 minutes until the wine has almost disappeared. Add stock and bring to the boil, then add your shanks back in
6. Place a lid on top and place in the oven for about 2.5 hours until the lamb comes away from the bone
7. Once fully cooked, shred the meat from the bone, and remove from the sauce
8. Reduce the sauce over a medium heat until rich and thick, add the meat back in and stir to combine, check seasoning. Then leave to chill in the fridge
9. Once the filling is chilled, organise pastry.
Pastry:
10. Roll out your pastry on a lightly floured surface
11. Use your pie dish as a guide for size and once cut into a circle, lightly brush with beaten egg and chill until ready to bake
12. Spoon the chilled lamb mix into your pie dish, brush the sides of the dish with beaten egg and place the disk on top using fingers to crimp the sides
13. Ensure the oven temperature is heated to 200’c.
14. Bake pie for 20 – 25 minutes until the puff is golden and risen
Serve:
15. Serve with steamed green vegetables, caramelised red cabbage, and fluffy mashed potato
16. *If you’d like a showstopper pie, cut a 3 cm hole in the middle of your pie, save a shank bone when you pull away the meat and pop this into the pie and through the pastry hole, bake as above
Prep time: 25 mins
Cook time: 2 hrs
Serves: 5+
• 450g lean pork shoulder or leg, cut into cubes
• 3 spicy pork and chilli sausages, twisted and cut in half
• 3 rashers of lean smoked bacon, chopped
• 2 tbsp vegetable oil
• 2 onions, cut into wedges
• 2 garlic cloves, peeled and sliced
• 1 red pepper, de-seeded and cut into small pieces
• 2 x 400g cans of chopped tomatoes
• 2 tbsp smoked paprika
• 1 tsp soft brown sugar
• 150ml pork stock
• 200g can of kidney beans, rinsed and drained
• ½ can of butter beans, rinsed and drained
For the dumplings :
• 100g self-raising flour
• 40g suet
• ½ can of butter beans, rinsed and drained
• 2 spring onions, thinly sliced
• seasoning
1. Preheat your oven to 180˚C / 160˚C fan / Gas 4.
2. Heat some oil in a large oven-proof pot and add the pork, sausages, bacon, onion and garlic.
3. Heat the mixture gently until the meat begins to brown and the onions soften.
4. Now, add in all the remaining ingredients and bring to the boil. Once the dish is bubbling, add a lid and cook in the oven for 1½ hours or until the pork is tender.
5. With the pork cooking, it’s time to make the dumplings. Place all of the ingredients for the dumplings into a bowl. Add a little cold water to bind the mix together then shape into around 8-10 dumplings.
6. Place the dumplings on top of the pork and cook for 20 minutes (10 minutes with the lid on, 10 minutes with it off ).
7. Serve with steamed seasonal vegetables.
Recipe from Festive Recipes © Angela Gray, photography © Huw Jones.
Serves 12
• 500g piece of salmon fillet
• 125g sea salt
• 25g demerara sugar
• Zest of a lemon
• 2 tablespoons of gin e.g. Dyfi Gin Original, Pollination or Hibernation
• 3 stems dill
• 4 stems parsley
1. Mix the ingredients and liberally coat the salmon on both sides. Rub in slightly and place in a plastic food bag, or wrap tightly in cling film.
2. Place the salmon on a flat surface in your refrigerator and weight with whatever is heavy in your fridge – full bottles of juice, litres of milk, etc.
3. Leave in the fridge for 24–48 hours, flipping it over every 12 hours to even the curing process. When ready to eat, remove from plastic wrap, scrape the ingredients off the surface of the salmon, slice thinly, and serve with a delicious salad.
I like to o er my guests a shot of the gin straight from the freezer with a little ice and twist of lemon to accompany the salmon. www.graffeg.com
Recipe from Festive Recipes © Angela Gray, photography © Huw Jones. Serves 8-10
• 100g mixed dried fruits e.g. raisins, sultanas
• 50g dried cranberries
• 30g chopped candied orange peel
• The zest of 2 clementines, plus 4 tablespoons of juice
• 1 zest of a lemon, plus 2 tablespoons of juice
• 2 tablespoons brandy or cognac
• 100g unsalted butter, softened, plus a little for buttering the pudding basin
• 100g dark muscovado sugar
• 50g self-raising flour
• 1 tablespoon cocoa powder
• 1 teaspoon mixed spice
• ½ teaspoon ground ginger
• 2 medium eggs
• 1 medium eating apple, peeled, cored and grated
• 2 nuggets of stem ginger, chopped
• 50g white breadcrumbs
• 50g dark glacé cherries, chopped (optional)
• 85g good quality dark chocolate, chopped
Method
1. Put the dried mixed fruit, cranberries, zests of the clementine and lemon, plus the juices and brandy in a bowl, mix well, cover and soak in the fridge for 3 days, stirring daily.
2. To make the pudding – Butter a 1 litre pudding basin and line the bottom with a disc of greaseproof paper.
3. In a mixing bowl, beat together the butter and sugar until pale and fluffy. Sift in the flour, cocoa and spice, ground ginger and combine. Fold in the eggs one at a time, followed by the grated apple, stem ginger, the soaked fruits, breadcrumbs, cherries and chocolate. Mix thoroughly.
4. Fill the basin with the mixture and cover with a double thickness of greaseproof paper, pleated in the middle. Cover this with a layer of foil, again pleated in the middle, then secure tightly around the top of the basin with string.
5. Place the pudding in a large saucepan on a trivet or upturned saucer so it doesn’t touch the bottom. Fill the pan with enough hot water to reach halfway up the basin. Place over a medium/high heat and bring to a simmer, cover the pan and gently simmer for 2 hours.
A refreshing twist on traditional mead, the Honey Spritz is a simple yet elegant cocktail that transforms mead into a sparkling, celebratory drink. By pairing the rich, honeyed notes of the mead with the effervescence of tonic water, and a squeeze of lime for a touch of acidity, this cocktail balances sweetness with a crisp, refreshing finish. The addition of rosemary as a garnish enhances the drink’s aromatic complexity, making it perfect for any occasion, from casual gatherings to festive celebrations.
• 50ml Traditional Mead
• 50ml Tonic Water
• Squeeze of Lime
• Rosemary sprig (for garnish)
1. In a glass filled with ice, combine the Traditional Mead and tonic water.
2. Add a squeeze of fresh lime juice and stir gently.
3. Garnish with a sprig of rosemary and serve immediately.
6. If you are preparing your pudding in advance, cool completely once cooked and keep in a cool, dark place or in the fridge (I make two and keep one for the following year).
7. To reheat, steam for 1 hour, or remove foil, decant onto a plate, cover with cling film, pierce in several places and microwave on full power for 4 minutes. Leave to stand for 2 minutes before serving.
I love the tradition of adding a little trinket to the pudding. In 2016 e Royal Mint produced a beautiful little sixpence, which I used in my pudding. It’s worth checking their website to see what they have on o er this year. www.graffeg.com
Well-known for their bold, deeply aromatic offering, Gŵyr Gin have teamed up with fellow South Walians, Brecon Carreg, to create a ready-to-drink, wholly Welsh, G&T in a can. With both companies drawing inspiration and ingredients from the South Wales landscapes, this is an unparalleled union. As is the drink itself, which is no sickly-sweet, alcopop tinned cocktail. Combining Gower gin with Brecon Carreg’s sparkling light tonic, has resulted in a dry, quininefilled blast that allows the gin’s inherent botanics to shine. Woven through the juniper are aniseed notes of fennel, alongside hints of coriander seed and bitter grapefruit, all contained within each peppery sip. Sharp and invigorating it reminded us of the delicious shudder you get when walking into cold sea. This is a sophisticated and properly grown-up drink, packaged in a convenient and beautifully designed tin, that can be taken with you and enjoyed anywhere. Perfect for picnics or for the upcoming party season! www.thegowergincompany.wales
From food and drink to beauty products, it can be difficult to understand what links Grounds For Good’s diverse offerings, until that is you hear their story. This Welsh social enterprise supports its local community while developing and supplying high-quality products that work with the environment. Enter GFG’s aim to repurpose the tons of used coffee grounds, destined for landfill, this time by infusing them into preserves. We kicked off with the Orange, Coffee & Gin, and what a kick it was! A deliciously tangy marmalade, with coffee bringing a subtle darkness, and gin contributing complex botanical-rich high notes; both beautifully marrying with the sweet citrus. On to the Blackcurrant, Coffee & Vodka. This splendidly rich, sweet but tart preserve, has whole blackcurrant nestling within its jewel-like jam. Again, the delicate hint of coffee and spirit acted to elevate the jam to something much more special. The infusion of the grounds is so innovative. Rather than adding a full coffee flavour to the preserves, it lifts what is already there, adding layers of complexity that allow the fruit to sing. Roll on breakfast time!
www.groundsforgood.co.uk
North Wales based, Aber Falls Distillery is going from strength to strength, with their growing range of Whiskies, Gins and Liqueurs receiving plaudits from both within and beyond the Principality. And this year sees a new addition to the stable, the whisky based Aber Falls Cream Liqueur. With an eye on our Christmas drinks cabinet, we decided to sample it, sipping it first neat and then deliciously cold ‘on the rocks’. We found it to be a luxurious, velvety liqueur, that has achieved a charming balance between the smooth, sumptuousness of the cream with its delicate vanilla-notes, and the warm whisky-sherry tones of the liqueur. An easy-sipping, but still complex and rewarding drink, this has none of the syrupiness often found with more ubiquitous brands. The bottle itself is beautifully presented in cream and gold livery and embossed with the Aber Falls Celtic knot. A wonderful winter warmer, we would be delighted to unwrap a bottle on Christmas morning and to enjoy it in front of a cracking log fire.
www.aberfallsdistillery.com
The 600-year-old White Hart in Llandarog is a quintessential Welsh pub. Thatched roof, oak beams, roaring log fires, home cooked meals and of course, well-kept ales and spirits. And the Coles family, owners for over 30 years, certainly know their drinks, because alongside serving punters, they are also brewers and distillers. Their single malt, matured in bourbon barrels, has long been well-received by Welsh Whisky lovers, but more recently they have developed an 8-year-old, single malt, aged instead in spiced rum barrels. Presented in a fun barrel-shaped bottle, the rum-aging process bestows the spirit with a deep, amber colour, and a taste quite unlike anything you’ll have tried before. It’s clearly an excellent raw spirit being smooth, refined and easy drinking. But the rum aging brings in tons of rich warmth, with liquorice and clove on the nose, orange peel and mulled spice on the palate and a finish reminiscent of a good bourbon with hints of vanilla, sweet caramel and molasses. It’s a fine and novel addition to a collection.
www.coles.wales/white-hart-inn
Yo
As the name suggests, Eccentric Spirits celebrate that wicked Welsh wildness, still simmering along our craggy coastline. From under the ‘In the Welsh Wind’ umbrella, Eccentric captures this lifeforce using unconventional flavours and botanicals, along with cleverly designed bottles, that tell the story of our people, places and ideas.
Taken neat, Black Batch Spiced Rum is a beautifully smooth, sipping rum, that can stand alone easily. Offering multiple layers of interest, it delivers a complex profile courtesy of softly dark and rounded molasses notes, a citrussy zestiness and those warming Christmassy spices, cinnamon and cloves, making it a viable alternative to a fine whisky. Add in splashes of those time-honoured rum favourites coke or ginger ale, and you’ve got two classics reinvented. Maverick mixologists next up. We used BB to fashion a fruity and rather summery Rum Punch, and then a gingery and much more wintery, Dark and Stormy. Both cocktails were gorgeous, and the BB shone through. For land-lubbers and old sea dogs alike, BB will be brilliant this Christmas.
www.eccentricspirits.com
Before opening the box of review samples from Morgan’s Brew, we popped on the kettle in readiness. Imagine our surprise when we opened the box and instead of reaching for the teapot, we needed ice and lemon, lots. We knew that Morgan’s Brew had teamed up with distillers North Star, but had no idea of the extensiveness of their range, with eight tea distilled gins, in dinky, Xmas ready, 20cl bottles, to test! We can only give you a snapshot of each but suffice to say the base gin is clearly top drawer, being smooth and light. Innovatively, they distil the spirit, botanicals and tea together – crisp, clear and subtly flavoured with the notes of the tea, but none of the residue that can result from infusion.
Dragon’s Breath is clean, crisp, dry and intensely aromatic distilled with black and green tea and warm chai spices. Cranberry, sweet but with a sharpness cutting through, a grown up cranberry cream soda. Oriental Cherry and Green tea yields warm spices of cinnamon, clove and cardamon before revealing deep cherry notes. Vanilla is mellow, slightly herby with a pleasant woodiness from vanilla and black tea. Winter berry has a very definite flavour, hitting nose and palate straight away with rosehip and fruit. Green Valley Fruit was refreshingly aromatic with delicate oriental undertones. Cherry Rhubarb – sharp with a sweet overlay of cherry. Rose Congou – juniper forward but beautifully fragranced with hints of rose water reminiscent of summer and cottage gardens. Excellent stuff.
www.morgansbrewtea.co.uk
Merthyr based Authentic Curries and Worldfoods have a history that stretches back to the 90’s when customers would flock to Roch in Pembrokeshire to co-founder David’s café to eat his delicious curries. So good were they, that one of those customers, Paul Trotman, invested in the thriving business. One which caught the eye of Castell Howell MD Brian Jones. Now, some 30 years since it all began, Authentic supply a myriad of hand prepared ready to go meals to the trade alongside a booming Welsh-made ready meal selection, mainly curries, available in supermarkets. And what good value for money they are. With no rice, you’re getting the ‘expensive’ bit and a sizeable portion of it, for only £3. And then there’s the quality and taste. None had the watery, additive laden feel you sometimes get with ready-meals but were thick with spice and plenty of meat. The Chicken Tikka Masala was gently spiced, lovely and creamy, generously lashed with coconut and super tasty. The equally successful, peppery Tan y Ddraig (with leeks) had a real kick but a light touch courtesy of yoghurt, while the heavily spiced and richer Welsh Beef Curry was more like a madras but a big hit too. In summary, they’re as good as any ready-meal curry we’ve had and better value. And Welsh!
www.authenticcurry.co.uk
Carmarthenshire’s Gwenyn Gruffydd was founded in 2010 when Gruffydd was kindly given a hive of bees by a local farming friend so he could pursue his dream of keeping bees. That one hive, in the back of his mum and dad’s garden, has now multiplied into over 200 beehives, dotted around several locations across South Wales over 10 years later and developed into a successful business with a mission to sell quality single origin honey, both his own and from beekeeping friends in Wales and beyond. Gruff’s 100% pure, minimally filtered, unpasteurised Welsh honey has garnered numerous Great Taste awards, so we felt we had to try some.
First up is his 3-star winning Wild Flower honey. Light, delicate and floral but multi-layered robustness reveals itself as you let it linger in the mouth. Delightful. Next was a more complex and deeper flavoured Heather Honey, rich and heady, with a magnificent, almost incense like, intensity. Lastly, and intriguingly, a Provence Lavender honey. A complete contrast with fragrant, comforting lavender dominating initially before giving way to more nuanced sweet fruity notes. Wow, what a selection of honeys. All different and all very special.
www.gwenyngruffydd.co.uk
PRE-PREPARED MEAL SPECIALISTS
I’ve lost my rolling pin. Well, mislaid it, I suppose, and this is not the time of year for such an incident to occur. ere is a chance that, like almost all my possessions, it has migrated down to the village hall, to be deployed as a prop in a Young Farmer’s sketch - kitchen based humour goes down very well in these circles. It’s a solid, large wooden job which has served me well for decades and its temporary replacement doesn’t quite match up: I need to nd time to visit one of Wales’ network of top-quality cook shops like Arthur John in Cowbridge or Peppercorn in Llandeilo. e risk, of course, is that once I enter one of these Aladin’s caves, I do tend to indulge in a seasonal spree: of course I need a set of biscuit cutters in the shape of all of Santa’s individual reindeer because last year, I was obliged to make do and mend by trimming the biscuit dough from Rudolph’s nose to create a Blitzen biscuit. Not good enough.
I do take biscuits quite seriously: having to vacuum pack large quantities to send overland to Uzbekistan to boost morale at the British Embassy in Tashkent is no mean feat. Over the years, a vast array of themed cutters have accreted themselves to me like barnacles on an elderly seal, and they get a lot of use, though the Santa cutter is still awaiting its diabolical debut. But at Christmas, I go for simple shapes with cut out sections to ll with crusted boiled sweets to make stained glass window biscuits. If carefully positioned near fairy lights on the tree, the e ect can be magical but no remember to make a hanging hole before not a er baking. And if your festive home is cozy, as mine is emphatically not, be wary of drips from melting sugar ‘glass’: getting brightly coloured sugary goo out of a carpet is a seasonal task no-one needs.
Beyond my biscuit home territory, my rolling pin gets plenty of use at this time of year. I never seem to be able to make enough mince pies. I’m not bad at pastry, having upped my game in shameless imitation of a friend’s orange scented staple. And at this point, the Venn diagram of family dietary requirements needs to be pinned up on the pantry door: with a gluten-free, a dairy free and a veggie, as well as a nest of erce traditionalists, the mincies take some thinking. I’ve worked hard at GF pastry over the years, with limited
success but I think my mistake was not being radical enough with my substitutions. Coconut and almond ours deliver both nuttiness and a feeling of something special but you do need to remember that coconut seems to drink liquid, so it works far better in a blend. Binding this nutty pastry with egg helps with structure and do base line your patty tins, because the crumbly tenderness can lack strength. Ideally, ll with your own mincemeat: you don’t have to be a control freak to want to make sure you’re lling cases with something which isn’t too oozy.
You can really go to town with your own mincemeat. e traditional suet may be a no-no for your veggie guests but you do need to watch out for gluten in the meat-free alternatives. As long as you keep the proportions roughly right, you can ring the changes however you like. I tend to add apricots, prunes and dates to the traditional sultanas and currants. I can never quite understand why more of my friends, who are excellent cooks, don’t venture a batch of mincemeat: it’s an ideal ‘cooking with kids’ thing to do in the run up to Christmas. And if you’re juggling a few dietary requirements, your own mincemeat can be tailor-made: one of my own traditionalists loves all sorts of cakes and buns but regards candied peel as being close to a war crime. (I’m not sure she’s wrong.)
Given that this family could rebrand Christmas as Winter Ham and Marzipan Fest, marzipan topped mince pies go down a storm, as do those topped with snowy meringue. At times, when I have felt that my e orts at gluten-free pastry didn’t quite hit the mark, I’ve served ‘no-pie mince pies,’ a dollop of boozy fruit in a ramekin under a meringue topping but there is always the excellent option of Welsh Gluten Free’s Sweet Mince Tartlets. Popular all year round, these little treats come into their own at this time of year: check out the website of the company, based at Horeb Food Centre to discover their seasonal o erings, including traditional cakes and the newly-introduced shortbread.
Or you could always just roll up your sleeves and have a go at making the best mincies ever. If only I could remember where I put that rolling pin….
