taste. blas magazine tb16 - Feb-April 24

Celebrating great food and drink in Wales

Feb-April 2024

STRAIT UP

Menai rocks!

UNITED WE STAND

Clusters are key to success

LUXURIOUS LIQUEURS

Exquisite Welsh Elixirs

ARE YOU EXPERIENCED?

Hands on local foodie adventures

CHEERS FOR CHEESE

All hail to Wales’ best

PLUS FOOD AND DRINK REVIEWS, NEWS, COOKING TIPS AND RECIPES GALORE

VISIT NORTH WALES’ FIRST WHISKY Single MaltINWelsh Whisky DISTILLERY OVER 100 YEARS

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Publisher’s Letter

Resilient and optimistic team players There’s a Chinese curse that says ‘May you live in interesting times’, and we certainly do. The cost-ofliving crisis and the ‘Truss’ budget of 2022 have had a major impact on both consumers’ ability to spend and government spending plans, particularly in Wales.

And all following on from all the uncertainty caused by Ukraine, Covid and Brexit.

Given this, you’d reasonably assume that the food and drink sector in Wales would be reeling, like a punch-drunk fighter in the last round. But it’s quite the opposite. It’s been surprisingly resilient and has grown despite everything. Partly, or even mainly, because we have such wonderful ‘raw materials’ that are the bounty of our rich, fertile land, alongside such a talented, passionate and hard-working workforce. But also because of the ‘teamwork’ that goes on behind the scenes.

There are teams of farmers, producers, retailers and hospitality staff working long, hard hours to produce

our food and drink. Government support has been extraordinary, working hand in hand with the food and drink community to grow the sector. And our producers, chefs and growers share knowledge and expertise and constantly support each other. A prime example is the system of ‘Clusters’ set up by Food and Drink Wales to encourage and facilitate the sharing of knowledge and resources amongst producers. You can read all about them on page 16 of this issue.

But there’s another part of the team that has played its role brilliantly. You. Whether you’re a consumer, with shelves full of Welsh produce, or a buyer in retail or hospitality, your support and willingness to buy Welsh food and drink has been key to our food and drink community’s success. Long may it continue, as your support is needed now more than ever.

Paul Mulligan Publisher

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Contents Features Lick Your Lips It’s time to indulge in Wales’ finest liqueurs

Fare Enough Nothing goes to waste at Puffin Produce

Cheesy Does It Off-beat Welsh cheeses for an easy win

Team Up How clusters are helping Welsh producers

A Fine Harvest Cywain celebrate a great crop of start-ups

Strait Ahead For great food and drink, Menai’s the place to go

Get Your Hands Dirty Enjoy a day out with these foodie experiences

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Regulars I Screamed Jon Gower lifts his spirits in the darker months

From Leeks to Welsh Cakes Caroline Sarll marks St David’s Day

Hold the Front Page The latest news hot off the press

Restaurant Reviews St David’s on St David’s Day – how appropriate

Recipes From New Quay to Denbigh via, er, France?

Finger Lickin’ Treats Let our food and drink reviews tickle your taste buds

Two Soups …aren’t enough for Myfanwy

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©Marian Delyth

Jon Gower Make Summer Arrive Early Now that the golden hosts of daffodils are gracing parks and gardens we can properly celebrate spring and, as the days lengthen, anticipate brighter days to come. And if you can’t wait for summer itself I have a way of foretasting its sunny pleasures. Have an early ice-cream or two.

This obviously calorie-laden plan came to me after my youngest daughter Onwy insisted we should check out this place on Cardiff Bay’s Mermaid Quay. All her friends had been raving about it and then raving some more. So, on a gloomy day of pewter clouds and pelting rain we went down to Llanfaes Dairy’s outlet and had a gooseberry crumble ice-cream that catapulted me straight to June, that short month with its brief harvest of this delicious, oxalic fruit. A week later, on another blustery day of winds at the tail end of a storm, we tried the same sort of sweet retail therapy and it was again cheering. Call me an amateur meteorologist, or just call me greedy, but it worked.

The Welsh love affair with ice-cream goes way back.

When the Sidoli family from Italy opened up a place next to Bessie Morgan the Draper, Ernie Davies the newsagent and Isaac the Butcher in Caerau near Maesteg in the 1920s, they were part of a marvellous wave of Italian café owners who would bring a bright little touch of the Mediterranean with them to the Welsh Valleys. In the early days the Sidolis would take the ice-cream around on a horse and cart, a fourlegged forerunner of the ice cream van. My favourite such vehicle was one in the Rhondda, operated by a notably short man who adapted a rival’s well-known slogan of “Yipee! It’s Mr Whippy” to announce ‘Yipee!

It’s Mr Titchy!’ and would proudly stand on a wooden box to serve you up a ’99.

The Sidolis later decamped to Porthcawl in the 1950s, where they were to eventually open not one but two ice-cream parlours, serving up knickerbocker sundaes and banana splits to holidaymaking miners and day

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trippers who came on Sunday school trips or to enjoy the pleasures of the funfair. Ice-cream thus became synonymous with sunny days and seaside fun.

But the history of ice-cream in Wales goes much, much further back than the 1920s. You have only to look in the Welsh dictionary for evidence of that: the first recorded usage of the term hufen iâ was in 1856.

Since then it’s embedded in food culture with plenty of regional variety in Welsh ice-cream. The self-proclaimed “Home of Welsh Ice Cream” is Cadwaladers, a company that started life in 1926, when vanilla ice-cream was sold by the family from their Criccieth general store. Much like the secrecy surrounding what goes into Coca-Cola, the true ingredients for Cadwaladers was kept tightly within the family circle as handwritten notes regarding the recipe attest, including such things as “6 lbs of I shan’t tell you” and the addition of “a great deal of love and care?” Stopping at their outlet in Aberaeron is for many a delicious travel ritual, with their honey ice-cream in particular having long made a buzz. Meanwhile, the good folk of Swansea swear by Joe’s, and their allegiance is made visible when you see the long lines outside their outlet on St Helen’s Road. Although you can also find it for sale in Harrods.

Your sweet toothed travels might take in Fortes in Llandudno, or sample key lime pie ice-cream at Caffi Patio in Llangrannog, swooning over salted caramel affogato in Contis in Lampeter or Bara Brith ice cream in Beaumaris which really takes the cake, or maybe that should be the Welsh cake. But for the most unusual ice-cream you’d have to plump for Hufenfa’r Castell in Harlech’s variety which is made with sea-buckthorn berries. It is a berry which is one of the favourite food items of winter thrushes such as fieldfares and redwings but that are now leaving these shores. For spring is sprung, along with the snowdrops.

And summer is available, one scoop or two.

f o e t s a t A ales in Wevery sip!

Luscious Welsh Join us as we sip and savour exceptional Welsh liqueurs that embody creativity and craftsmanship. Explore bold coffee, zesty berries, and fine whisky. Each sip is a journey to Wales, where tradition meets innovation, and landscapes are bottled. So, pour a glass, and let’s embark on a journey through the flavours of Wales.

Aber Falls Salted Toffee Liqueur

Penderyn Welsh Cream Liqueur

Nestled in the picturesque landscape of North Wales, Aber Falls Distillery brings us a delightful treat with their Salted Toffee Liqueur. Crafted with a touch of Welsh magic, this liqueur is a sweet sensation.

Penderyn, a name synonymous with Welsh whisky excellence, extends their craftsmanship to the world of cream liqueurs with their Welsh Cream Liqueur.

Flavourful Elixir: The Aber Falls Salted Toffee Liqueur is a rich concoction that marries the sweetness of toffee with a subtle hint of salt, creating a harmonious balance of flavours that dance on your taste buds. It’s like indulging in a comforting dessert in a glass. (£25.99 / 50cl. Explore aberfallsdistillery.com for more information).

Creamy Indulgence: This liqueur is a velvety blend of fresh cream and the finest Penderyn whisky, resulting in a luxurious and soothing drink. It’s a smooth and comforting experience that showcases the essence of Wales. (£19.99 / 50cl. Learn more at penderyn.wales).

Barti Cream Liqueur Barti Ddu Rum is well-known for its exquisite spiced rum, and now they’re captivating our taste buds with Barti Cream Liqueur.

Sail into Sweetness: Barti Cream Liqueur is a delightful journey into the world of Welsh rum and creamy richness. The warm and comforting blend of flavours will transport you to the coasts of Wales, making it a perfect choice for those cosy evenings. (£26.99 / 50cl. Explore bartirum.wales for additional information).

Penrhos Blueberry Gin Liqueur Penrhos, known for its quality gin, takes a fruity twist with their Blueberry Gin Liqueur. Located in the heart of Wales, this distillery never fails to surprise us with its creativity.

Fruity Burst: The Penrhos Blueberry Gin Liqueur is a delightful infusion of their signature gin with the luscious flavours of blueberries. It’s a burst of fruity goodness that’s perfect for sipping neat or adding a dash of excitement to your cocktails. (£24.95 / 50cl. Visit penrhosspirits.co.uk for more details).

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Derw Coffee Liqueur Derw Distillery, situated amidst the serene Welsh landscapes, has crafted a Coffee Liqueur that’s perfect for coffee lovers and liqueur enthusiasts alike.

Coffee Infusion: Derw Coffee Liqueur brings together the robust flavours of freshly roasted coffee beans with a touch of Welsh magic. It’s a bold and aromatic liqueur that’s sure to awaken your senses. (£21.95 / 50cl. Visit derwdistillery.co.uk for more details).

Liqueurs Celtic Wines Raspberry Liqueur

Aronia Berry Liqueur

Celtic Wines, based in Wales, offers a delightful fruity experience with their Raspberry Liqueur.

Aronia berries are celebrated for their health benefits, and now they’re transformed into a delightful liqueur by the Welsh crafters.

Berry Bliss: This liqueur captures the essence of ripe raspberries in a bottle. It’s sweet, tangy, and bursting with fruity goodness. Whether sipped on its own or used as a mixer, it’s a delightful treat for your taste buds. (£15.99 / 50cl. Learn more at celticwines.co.uk).

Berry Wellness: The Aronia Berry Liqueur captures the essence of these super berries, offering a unique combination of sweet and tart. It’s not just a delicious treat but also a salute to the goodness of nature. (£17.95 / 50cl. Explore welsharoniaberryliqueur.com for additional information).

Danzy Jones’ Whisky Liqueur Danzy Jones, a name that resonates with tradition and craftsmanship, introduces a Whisky Liqueur that pays homage to Wales’ whisky heritage.

Whisky Elegance: Danzy Jones’ Whisky Liqueur is a testament to the rich whisky-making tradition of Wales. It’s a refined blend of fine whisky with a touch of sweetness. Sip and savour the complex flavours that unfold with each drop. (£29.99 / 50cl. Explore danzyjones.com for additional information).

Da Mhile Orange Liqueur Da Mhile, renowned for their organic spirits, brings us an Orange Liqueur that’s a burst of citrusy sunshine.

Citrus Zest: Da Mhile’s Orange Liqueur is a harmonious blend of zesty orange flavours, delivering a bright and refreshing experience. It’s the perfect companion for those who appreciate the tangy side of life. (£22.99 / 50cl. Learn more at damhile.co.uk).

Celtic Spirit Black Mountain Liqueur Celtic Spirit presents a Black Mountain Liqueur that encapsulates the rugged beauty of the Welsh landscape in a bottle.

Mountainous Marvel: This liqueur combines the essence of blackberries with a hint of aromatic herbs, resulting in a unique and wild flavour profile. It’s a taste of the untamed Welsh wilderness in every sip. (£19.95 / 50cl. Visit celticspirit.co.uk for more details).

Condessa Passion Fruit Gin Liqueur: A Tropical Delight Nestled among the world’s finest liqueurs, Condessa has emerged as a true pioneer in the art of crafting exceptional gin liqueurs. Their Passion Fruit Gin Liqueur is no exception; it’s a liquid embodiment of the tropics, capturing the essence of passion fruit in a captivating bottle.

Taste of Paradise: The moment you uncork a bottle of Condessa Passion Fruit Gin Liqueur, you’re greeted with an irresistible aroma that hints at the tropical adventure ahead. Each sip is a journey to paradise, with the sweet, tangy notes of fresh passion fruit dancing on your palate. This liqueur brings the exotic flavours of the tropics right to your glass, making it the perfect companion for both leisurely sipping and creative mixology. (£24.00 / 50cl. Explore celticspirit.co.uk for additional information).

In summary, the world of Welsh liqueurs is a captivating blend of tradition, innovation, and the natural beauty of the Welsh landscape.

Discover Aber Falls’ Salted Toffee and Danzy Jones’ Whisky Elegance, offering a diverse spectrum of Welsh flavours. From fruity bursts to creamy indulgence, bold coffee, and zesty citrus, there’s something for every palate. These bottles are a testament to Welsh craftsmanship and creativity. Cheers to a flavourful journey through Wales!

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CARAMELS HOT CHOCOLATES GRANOLAS Our award-winning selection available in retail and catering

bringing real Welsh produce to your pantry... sales@crwst.cymru www.crwst.cymru 10

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Doing good with surplus food Around 400,000 tonnes of food go to waste in Wales each year, much of it still good to eat. If just 1% of that was saved, it could be used to provide over 9 million meals—enough to provide three meals to every person in Wales.

At the same time, nearly a quarter of the population of Wales is facing poverty and struggling to access quality, nutritious food. Thousands of people across the country are suffering food insecurity and regularly going hungry.

FareShare Cymru was established in 2010 and delivers surplus, good to eat food that might otherwise go to waste to charities and community groups in every corner of Wales. Today, FareShare Cymru distributes, on average, 67 tonnes of surplus food per quarter to a network of groups and organisations across Wales that provide food and other essential services to people in need.

From cookery classes and lunch clubs in community centres, to school breakfast clubs, stocking the shelves of community pantries and providing hearty meals in homelessness shelters, food redistributed by FareShare Cymru is used by charities in a variety of ways. It enables these groups to bring people together and continue offering their essential support services.

To help address the growing issue of food waste while simultaneously helping communities and people in need, the Surplus with Purpose Cymru fund emerged as a transformative initiative. This fund, supported by the Welsh Government, enables Welsh producers, growers, and manufacturers of all sizes to contribute their surplus, edible goods without incurring additional costs. Food businesses can access the fund to cover a range of costs associated with harvesting, labour, storage, packaging, and transportation of surplus food.

An estimated 2 million of the 3.6 million tonnes of wasted food in the Welsh food industry every year is deemed still fit for consumption. FareShare Cymru is committed to ensuring that discarding good, nutritious food is never more economical than donating it to those in need.

Sustainability

FareShare Cymru strongly holds the belief that perfectly good food should always serve a humanitarian purpose, particularly in times of widespread food poverty and financial uncertainty – something that resonates strongly with Puffin Produce.

Says Matthew Thomas, Puffin Produce, “When staff have grown and nurtured a crop there is nothing worse for them than seeing food wasted. Rather than leaving them in the field we decided that it would be a good idea to supply them to this fantastic initiative by FareShare.

The Surplus with Purpose Cymru fund offers a solution to the problem of food waste, by allowing us to cover our own harvesting and labour costs for redistributing otherwise commercially unviable surplus. In an increasingly uncertain world, the opportunity to give surplus food to charity has never been more important.”

In its contribution of more than 30 tonnes of surplus cauliflower, Puffin Produce has not only used the fund effectively but has also played a part in averting the unnecessary emission of almost 52 tonnes of CO2 and over 49 million litres of water.

By working with FareShare, Puffin Produce has been able to reduce food waste levels, while having a positive impact on the environment and communities across Wales.

“Since partnering with FareShare our staff have been more engaged with combating food waste at all levels within our production systems as they are more aware of the potential our excess produce has to helping frontline charities. At Puffin we understand that the cost-of-living crisis is affecting everyone. So, if our excess produce can go a little way to helping ease the burden and ensure everyone has access to healthy meals, then we think it’s more than worth our while,” adds Sarah-Jane Sutton, Puffin Produce.

If you own a food business in Wales and would like to discuss how you can do good with your surplus food, get in touch with the team at FareShare Cymru today. info@fareshare.cymru

Working with FareShare Cymru Pembrokeshire based Puffin Produce has supplied FareShare Cymru with surplus fresh produce since 2020. Over the past year alone, Puffin has generously provided 9.19 tonnes of surplus food, equivalent to approximately 21,800 meals. By accessing the Surplus with Purpose Cymru fund, Puffin has been able to go further, recently supplying over 30 tonnes of surplus cauliflower without facing any additional costs.

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Say With enough cheese to put a smile on any foodie’s face, Wales has no shortage of well-known, award-winning makers. Dragon, Snowdonia and Colliers are firm favourites on supermarket shelves and Caws Teifi and Caws Cenarth have garnered plaudits aplenty as long-established artisanal cheesemakers with cabinets creaking with awards. It’s understandable that these big guns are the go-to for many - they’re excellent cheeses - but there’s a swathe of interesting, lesser-known, alternatives from smaller makers and the betterknown producers alike that make for fine additions to any cheese connoisseur’s board. With some help from Tom Pinder at the Welsh Cheese Company (welshcheesecompany.co.uk) we narrow down the field.

Brookes Dairy Blue Wenallt

Holden Farm Hafod

Blue Wenallt is a new blue made by Hannah Turner from Brookes Dairy in the Wye Valley, who also make the award-winning mould-ripened soft cheese, Angiddy. Hannah uses milk from her family’s herd of Jersey cows to make this rich, creamy blue, which puts us in mind of a Welsh Gorgonzola being well veined with loads of flavour. A great new blue.

Hafod is an unpasteurised Cheddar made by hand at Holden Farm Dairy on Bwlchwernen Fawr, Wales’ longest certified organic dairy farm. Sharp but subtle, Hafod has a rich texture and a complex and earthy flavour. The Hafod recipe was developed by Sam and Rachel Holden in 2005 after they were inspired by a recipe from Dora Saker’s 1917 book ‘Practical Cheddar Cheese-making’. The 75 Ayrshire cows on the farm produce a milk that’s perfect for high quality cheesemaking due to its rich and buttery texture.

www.brookesdairy.com

Ffynnon Wen Soft Joyce Soft Joyce is a soft, mould-ripened ewe’s milk cheese made by Ffynnon Wen Farm’s Harriet Cooke. Based near Llandeilo, Harriet uses milk from her own small flock of East Friesian sheep. The cheese is washed with a local cider halfway through its maturing process to help it develop a beautiful bloomy rind and contributes to its sweet, earthy flavour. www.ffynnonwenfarm.com

Caws Penhelyg Abaty Abaty is an organic, raw-milk soft cheese very similar to a classic Brie. Hand-made in small batches by Roger Yorke in his micro dairy near Aberystwyth using local, single-herd, organic milk, it’s one of very few unpasteurised Brie style cheeses currently made in the UK. This beautiful mould-ripened cheese is exceptionally soft and gooey - probably the softest cow’s milk cheese made in Wales at the moment – and full of flavour with a satisfying acidity that cuts through the creaminess. www.cawspenhelyg.co.uk

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Cosyn Cymru Brefu Bach Brefu Bach, or ‘Little Bleat’ is a similarly good ewe’s milk cheese. So good, it won Best Food Producer at the BBC Food and Farming Awards. It’s an unpasteurised cheese made by Carrie Rimes of Cosyn Cymru in the foothills of Snowdonia. This soft, mould-ripened cheese has delicate sweetness and a texture that is almost like fromage frais. With a melt-in-the-mouth rind creamy mouthfeel it’s a delightfully creamy experience. www.cosyn.cymru

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Cheese Trefaldwyn Blue

Caws Teifi Onion and Garlic

Trefaldwyn may have changed ownership last year, but it hasn’t moved far. Original owner Clare has passed the recipe on to another dairy that’s just down the road, Daisy Bank. Also, an organic dairy, they’ve quickly got up to speed to maintain the quality of this multi-award winning, bold and creamy artisan blue veined cheese from mid-Wales. Full-flavoured and deep gold in colour it makes an impressive centrepiece on any cheeseboard.

Teifi Onion & Garlic is a relatively new offering from the other stalwart of Welsh artisan cheese making, Caws Teifi. It’s part of their range of flavour-added Goudas (appropriately, the founders are Dutch so are well placed to make an exemplary Gouda). Organic and unpasteurised, it is made using traditional techniques in Ceredigion. The onion and garlic are added during the cheese making process resulting in a taste where they really come through.

www.trefaldwyn-cheese.com

www.teificheese.co.uk

Y Cwt Caws Ffetys

Snowdonia Truffle Trove

Anglesey’s Y Cwt Caws are always quite seasonal with their milk, like most goats’ cheese producers. But we’re getting to the time of year when their fresher cheeses, such as Tysilio, become increasingly available. Ffetys, though a salad cheese inspired by Feta, makes for a lovely, tangy, lemony addition to a cheeseboard. If you can’t wait, they usually have firmer cheeses available Caws Taid is a stunning well matured, salty but fresh, hard cheese that would grace any table.

Truffle Trove is one of the newest additions to the ever-popular Snowdonia Cheese Company’s range of intensely delicious varieties. It blends Snowdonia’s smooth and creamy Cheddar with a delicate black truffle from Italy. The rich earthy notes of truffle work beautifully with the powerful Cheddar to create a mouth-watering combination. www.snowdoniacheese.co.uk

www.ycwtshop.co.uk

Pant Mawr Smoked Heb Enw This moreish goats’ milk cheese comes from David and Cynthia Jennings and their son Jason at Pant Mawr Cheeses in Rosebush, Pembrokeshire. Smoked Heb Enw combines the smooth texture and delicate aftertaste of regular Heb Enw with the depth that comes from smoking over sustainably sourced oak. An interesting addition to a cheeseboard or alternatively, try it sprinkled into black bean tacos or in a salad with grilled vegetables. www.pantmawrcheeses.co.uk

Caws Cenarth Caws Cryf

Dragon ‘Ruby’ Slate Cavern Aged Welsh Red Leicester

Caws Cryf is a wax-covered Cheddar made by Caws Cenarth, one of the stalwarts of the Welsh artisan cheese scene. Strong by name and strong by nature, Caws Cryf (Welsh for strong) is like the more famous Black Bomber, by The Snowdonia Cheese Company, but is a little creamier and a little stronger. It is also organic. Add this to a cheeseboard and enjoy with a slice of apple or a glass of cider for the perfect flavour combination.

Dragon, from South Caernarfon Creamery, may be a staple of supermarket shelves across Wales, but they also have a range of hand-crafted, artisan cheeses.

Their standard red Leicester has won numerous awards recently so it’s no surprise that this artisan version tastes so good. Matured deep in the caverns of Llanfair slate mines, the unique ageing process imparts an exceptional character to this red Leicester, resulting in an intense and complex blend of sweet, savoury and nutty notes.

www.cawscenarth.co.uk

www. dragonwales.co.uk

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This is Food and Drink.

This is Wales.

Thanks to our patron saint, St David, we will always be loyal to our leeks. However, with an abundance of delicious, award-winning produce to choose from, all year round, it can be hard to resist Wales’ other saintly delights... gov.wales/foodanddrinkwales

f FoodDrinkWales

@FoodDrinkWales

Food_Drink_Wales l Bwyd a Diod Cymru | Food and Drink Wales

WELSH foodies have never had it so good!

Connoisseurs of food and drink are waking up to the fact Welsh produce has come a long way since the period when hardy perennials of Bara Brith, Caerphilly Cheese, and Welsh Lamb and Cawl dominated our national menu.

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And while Covid threatened to throw an almighty spanner in the works, businesses are now adapting to the post-pandemic market to ensure Welsh food and drink offers a broader range of quality food products with a wider reach than ever before – both at home and abroad.

If ‘Together Stronger’ was the slogan that helped transform the Wales men’s football team from plucky under-achievers into World Cup heroes – it could also apply to the ongoing campaign to hoist Wales up the global food and drink league.

For teamwork is at the heart of the ethos of the Cluster network run by the Welsh Government’s Food and Drink division. It promotes collaboration amongst food and drink businesses, suppliers, academia and government to help the sector flourish.

At its heart is collaboration between Cluster members, which helps businesses identify ways of improving

operations and to address common issues facing small groups of businesses within the industry.

The idea for the programme in Wales was adopted from the Clusters model of Ifor Ffowcs-Williams in New Zealand, taking a similar approach to the nurturing and upgrading of competitive agendas.

By facilitating collaborations between groups who have matters of mutual interest, this helps make their field of interest grow and develop the sector as a whole.

The nine Clusters – CEO North, CEO South, Drinks, Export, Fine Foods, NutriWales, Seafood, Horticulture and Sustainability – aim to deliver real step change as opposed to incremental growth. They offer support and ‘know how’ on how to work with other suppliers, along with solutions to growth obstacles and exploiting commercial opportunities while developing capacity and capability.

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Fine Foods “It’s all about building resilience.” That’s the appraisal of Fine Foods Cluster Lead Bethan Jones, who says members are encouraged to give a ‘shout-out’ to fellow businesses for suggested solutions to a particular problem.

“During Covid the Clusters really showed their strength,” she enthuses. “It was obviously a very challenging time which forced people to come together and work collaboratively.

“We really are a foodie nation. Some time ago Welsh Government commissioned the ‘Value of Welshness’ research. Consumers buy into the Welsh landscape, the climate, our values and culture and fine foods are part of the package.”

Established seven years ago, this Cluster consists of around 130 Welsh businesses working together to boost sales. Bursting with fine food and drink, the Shared Hamper – assembled while consumers were sending gifts to one another during the pandemic – was launched with the aim of helping members achieve a bigger sales reach.

“At some point you’re going to encounter barriers which perhaps group collaboration can help overcome,” says Bethan. “A company based in west Wales, for example, would otherwise be unaware of one on Deeside, despite sharing the same problems.”

Fine Foods also includes the Honey Cluster which has launched an action learning group to tackle issues as they arise. And not just matters close to home – Wainwright’s Bee Farm at Aberystwyth are currently marketing a Ukrainian honey collection.

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Also located in Mid Wales, Hilltop Honey produces a wide range of products including honey, maple syrup, agave and fitness and beauty products. These are available in re-usable glass jars, fully recyclable squeezy bottles, and biodegradable materials.

Having arisen from humble beginnings, Hilltop’s proud boast is that their pure and natural products have nothing added and nothing taken away. They currently export widely to the EU, Middle East and Far East.

Export This Cluster, which aims to support businesses pursuing trade opportunities overseas, has over 120 members ranging from very large companies to much smaller outfits.

And the sluggish nature of the post-Brexit UK economy means more and more Welsh producers are looking at new horizons.

“We offer a help desk,” says Export Cluster Lead Rhys Llywelyn, “and the queries we receive range from ‘do people eat lamb in Japan?’ to ‘what kind of commodity codes do I need to send my goods abroad’?”

Web-based and face-to-face events provide producers with an overview of specific markets such as Japan, Switzerland, Singapore and Germany, while training sessions are also available.

“Covid was a real wake-up call to many businesses in terms of risk management,” says Rhys, “and the pandemic tied in with the EU exit.

“It was pretty grim for those businesses reliant on the UK economy and it suddenly made them aware they couldn’t put all their eggs in one basket.

“Yet unforeseen opportunities arose as different countries coming out of lockdown at different times were concerned about feeding their people.

“That did make people think about export differently and see it as more of an opportunity.

“Working on Teams or Zoom meant that the world shrank and it no longer mattered whether a prospective buyer was in Cardiff or Australia.”

Since 1934 Village Bakery have supplied customers with high quality bakery products. Now they distribute bakery treats such as crumpets, pancakes, scones and Welsh cakes as well as breads of many types and styles to retailers across the EU and beyond and recently started exporting frozen pancakes to Australia.

NutriWales Launched in 2015 with the objective of improving health and well-being while stimulating joint research, product development and access to new markets, this Cluster seeks to connect producers, academia and government while keeping one eye on the consumer.

Working closely with the Horticulture Cluster, with a big focus on sustainability, NutriWales supports desktop research and global innovations while also lending a helping hand to start-ups.

“We bring together different interest groups to focus on diets while posing the question whether there are local

alternatives and more sustainable ingredients,” explains NutriWales Cluster Lead Louise Neilson.

A recent collaboration with Aberystwyth University has resulted in the production of a Welsh tea made from rhubarb leaves, while a group of members have developed pumpkin leaves as a more natural alternative to kale and spinach.

Apart from harnessing expertise at Welsh universities, NutriWales also helps producers access new markets.

Using organic milk, Rachel’s Organic make a wide range of yogurt and dairy puddings. Following a long history of production in west Wales their products are now available worldwide. Since day one, the organic yogurts have been made from original family recipes using only local milk.

Seafood The long Welsh coastline means seafood should be a prime part of our diet – so why is that not the case compared to past generations?

“Consumers tend to want fish to look as different as possible from the original product,” explains Seafood Cluster Lead Chris Parker. “We’re mainly talking fish and chips and deep-fried fish here.

“People have this misconception that it’s difficult to cook and prepare fish. For example, mackerel has the reputation for being a bony fish, but cooked correctly on the bone – whether whole or filleted – makes preparation easy.

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“We have to educate the public because it’s a travesty that so much seafood caught in British waters is exported as there are so many species available.”

Accordingly, the Seafood Cluster provides support for businesses by looking at ways to increase their market potential as well as adding value to their product while analysing exactly how they operate.

An Anglesey family business and global supplier of top quality live, sustainably sourced shellfish, the Lobster Pot has been operating for over seventy years.

It is run by Tristan Wood, the third generation of the Wilson family at Church Bay, where an innovative factory enables the holding of shellfish in optimum conditions. Modernised holding tanks and a packing area are equipped with new technology to meet everincreasing traceability and food safety standards.

Sustainability

Drinks When it comes to discovering new Welsh beers to sample, Pete Brown says that the well shows no signs of running dry.

“I’ve championed Welsh beers at the Abergavenny Food Festival for many years and even paired them with the music of bands playing the Green Man Festival in the Brecon Beacons,” says the renowned author, broadcaster and beer lover.

‘To make Welsh food & drink the most sustainably produced in theworld and shout about it!’

“Every year I worry that I might struggle to find something new and interesting, but there’s always a clutch of fantastic new beers to explore.”

That is the vision of this Cluster, originally launched as the ‘Sustainable Brand Values’ Cluster back in the preCovid days of January 2020.

‘A thriving and developing Welsh drinks sector comprising of innovative and energetic producers of distinctive high-quality drinks.’

Building awareness, nurturing skills capability and capacity, improving insight, knowledge and research and promoting best practice are all seen as essential tools in marking the way forward.

That is Food and Drink Wales’s vision of the future of an industry dating back to the seventh century.

To that end engagement with PR and media, the farming unions and over a hundred suppliers is crucial.

Monthly Cluster meetings, re-engagement and recruitment through the Fine Foods, Seafood and Honey Clusters are seen as important as well as liaison with the likes of Cywain and Food Innovation Wales.

The task of building awareness is addressed through ‘Brand Ambassadors’ and the Taste Wales Sustainability Zone as well as a strong communication plan comprising a quarterly newsletter, regular press releases and case studies, and regular updates to the Cluster 201 group, the Welsh Government Sustainability team and Food and Drink Wales Industry Board.

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Calon Wen is a small co-operative of organic family farms across Wales which believes in providing exceptional organic milk, cheese and butter sustainably produced. Now a leading brand in Wales, Calon Wen also supplies markets across the globe including the EU, Middle East and the Far East.

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And they aim to achieve this goal through building Welsh brands at home and abroad, improving skills and knowledge across the industry, enabling scale-up and growth and increasing innovation.

There are four special interest groups: beer and cider; wine; spirits and water, soft drinks, dairy and hot beverages.

“The focus is to encourage suppliers in each sector to work together,” says Drinks Cluster Lead Mark Grant, in what is by now a familiar refrain. “If they can do that, they will inevitably see better results and solve any key challenges that may arise.”

To deliver the strategy close links have been forged with a multitude of associated bodies including Visit Wales, The Campaign for Real Ale, Food & Drink

Skills Wales, Food Innovation Wales and Welsh Government Services such as Meet the Buyer.

Resurrected in 2011 before growing from a strong local following, Wrexham Lager now exports to several countries on the crest of the wave that has seen Wrexham gain global fame due to the football club’s Hollywood connections.

Horticulture “Horticulture is a significant part of the food supply chain,” says Horticulture Cluster Lead Heulyn Greenslade, of Lantra, who have been running the group since last April. “What we found with Covid was an upsurge in the demand for locally sourced produce.

“Whereas in the past market gardens sold to restaurants, now, that custom has been picked up by local people needing supply.”

Bellis Brothers is an independently run family business, established in 1860 and located near Wrexham in the Dee Valley. Over the past twenty years they have diversified from farming into a farm shop and garden centre.

One positive aspect of Covid was that it brought the business to the forefront of the community’s mind at a time when people were unwilling to attend supermarkets and simply wanted ‘local’.

As well as raising awareness of sustainability issues, this cluster also aims to encourage businesses to reduce their number of food miles through online sessions and face-to-face meetings.

FareShare Cymru run a ‘Surplus with Purpose’ scheme which provides funding for the redistribution of leftover produce, while a recent presentation by The Food Technology Centre offered alternative solutions to food waste.

“The FareShare Cymru scheme is absolutely crucial to the Horticulture Cluster,” says Heulyn. “We are happy to spread their message and numerous horticulture businesses – Puffin Produce, for example – have signed up to it.”

CEO The CEO Cluster is split geographically, with one serving businesses in the north of Wales, and the other focusing on the south. Their key objectives are to support larger and fast growth businesses to meet each quarter to discuss opportunities, challenges and to learn from both guest speakers and other companies.

This growth is driven by a combination of factors

including innovation, new sales channels and new product development, all of which may be supported by this group’s work.

For example, the CEO – South Cluster holds quarterly events such as dinners and site visits, to enable CEOs/ MDs and technical leaders to develop valuable relationships and collaboration to benefit participating companies.

Themes at previous events have included looking at the role of the Non-Executive Director; the economic outlook and the impact of the food and drink industry; and an update on the performance and future plans of UK supermarkets.

The Cluster also provides a forum for the Welsh Government and Food and Drink Wales to receive insight into the health and optimism of larger and faster growing food and drink companies. This has included CEOs and MDs from the CEO – South Cluster attending a round-table meeting with the Welsh Government’s Economy Minister.

Lesley Griffiths MS, Minister for Rural Affairs, North Wales, and Trefnydd

Meanwhile, recent activities for the CEO – North Cluster has included a mix of online and face to face events. A number of members have also taken part in a pilot programme looking to reduce energy costs by collaborating to increase purchasing power with utility companies.

Looking ahead, there are plans for several site visits to larger member sites, such as AMRC, and an event aimed at identifying and accessing finance and grant support for the sector.

As for Lesley Griffiths, the Welsh Government’s Minister for Rural Affairs and North Wales, and Trefnydd, she is in no doubt that the secret to a thriving and sustainable food and drinks sector is collaboration.

“Bringing like-minded individuals and businesses together is vital, and the industry is reaping the rewards of closer collaboration.

“During the pandemic we saw the Clusters come into their own as a key means of gathering intelligence from the food and drink sector. This helped everyone across the industry work together to help overcome what was a challenging period.

“Looking ahead, I have no doubt that the Clusters will remain central to the success of Welsh food and drink and act as powerful catalysts for growth, innovation and opening of new market opportunities.”

Yes, the days when Wales was regarded as something of a culinary desert now seem ancient history.

Ironically, Covid has helped open an exciting chapter akin to the times when Celtic tribesmen would regularly cross Offa’s Dyke buying and selling their wares, fuelled by the knowledge there were exciting new worlds to explore…

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Tr a d i t i o n a l We l s h f o o d s since 1934

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Reap your rewards

The year 2024 has well and truly kicked off for the Cywain team, with even more offerings available for your growth ambitions within the Welsh food and drink industry.

In this new offering, Lowri Pugh-Davies from Cywain highlights the support available for micro, small and medium Welsh businesses, offering a range of help in the form of mentoring, workshops and webinars covering a whole manner of food sector specific topics, to study tours and test trading events to help develop new markets for your delicious products. Let 2024 be the year you take the next step forward for your business. Cywain is here for you.

What’s in a name?

Have you ever wondered what Cywain means? It is the Welsh word for “to gather in” or “to harvest”, which is exactly what we strive to do when supporting Welsh food and drink businesses, from the beginning and throughout their journeys. We consistently plant seeds of knowledge and inspiration through workshops, study tours and test trading opportunities (to name a few), and after a period of time, our clients are able to harvest and reap what has been sown!

So, in 2024, why don’t you take a leaf (or seed) out of our book and invest in your business’ future.

What does heritage, Welsh infusion and culture taste like?

Here are some of the great Welsh producers and their products that can help you celebrate Saint David’s day

in style. There are so many fantastic companies within Wales that are using traditional methods, ingredients and techniques within their products keeping the Welsh culture alive. From using renowned Welsh produce within their recipes to putting a modern and unique twist on traditional products or meals, Welsh food and drink has been going through an exciting few years. Its position and acknowledgement within the food and drink industry has been thriving with culinary chefs wanting Welsh food and drink products on their menu around the world.

So what can you enjoy this Saint David’s day? Here are a few suggestions from the extensive range that’s out there, all with a little bit of a twist on the ordinary.

The Pattyman Welsh Cakes with a Jamaican Twist!

As a proud Welshman with a heritage mix of Welsh/ Jamaican parents, Leroy Williams (or The Patty Man as he’s become known!) is so proud to honour his late Father, of the Windrush Generation. He thrives on creating a fusion of Welsh produce and Jamaican products that offer unique flavours. His Pattycakes are a delicious fusion of Welsh and Jamaican sweet spices, packed with flavour!

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Fat Bottom Welsh Cakes Fat Bottom Welsh Cakes pride themselves on being a company that are creating a traditional product with unusual flavours! Two of their range have won great taste awards with their moreish flavours Lavender & Honey, or how about their Dark Chocolate & Stem Ginger.

Snowdonia Wagyu

Cawl & Co Lisa Fearn states that, “Cawl & Co embarks on a flavourful mission – bringing the essence of Wales’s national dishes to the masses while paying homage to heritage foods.” Lisa and her son realised that “Cawl, a time-honoured staple enjoyed across Wales for centuries, deserved a place in every household. The decision was clear: Cawl & Co would be the beacon for bringing this culinary tradition to the forefront.”

They decided to create “A trio of signature soups – Ham, Lamb, and Vegetable Barley Cawl – crafted with dedication, echoing the timeless recipes of Mamgu.”

Castle Dairies Castle Dairies champion the fact that they believe, “Wales is the best place in the world to make butter.

With unspoilt valleys where summers are mild and rain is plentiful, we get plush green fields all year round. Lush and fresh, flavoursome grass makes for delicious Welsh butter. Our vision is to deliver outstanding innovation and quality into the butter and spreadable cabinet. We want to delight our customers and consumers with functional, convenient and great tasting products which don’t compromise their natural healthy status.” The company has built a reputation on providing its customers with industry leading quality levels. Their delicious traditional Welsh butter is the perfect butter to be enjoyed on hot toast, fluffy baked potatoes, delicious crumpets, or anything you can spread butter on!

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Nestled in the hills of Snowdonia, you will find many Welsh farmers producing the UK’s best prime lamb and beef, Snowdonia Wagyu company comment, “ here in Caernarfon - our farm has a major point of difference from the rest: we breed Wagyu, known for its incredible marbling as nature intended.” Their ethos is: “We care passionately for welfare, environment and farming sustainably with low input. Transparency - You know exactly where your meat comes from.

Minimal Waste - By only selling nose to tail we uphold our minimal waste policy. Animal Welfare - Our animals have a good natural life with minimal stress.”

One of Snowdonia Wagyu’s most popular products is their Wagyu Liver Pate with Apple & Pant Du Cider.

It’s a deliciously smooth and seductively rich artisan pate made in North Wales. The beautiful Pant Du Cider sweetens the richness of the liver delivering a truly indulgent sumptuous starter or snack. Perfect for picnics , a summer evening snack or light supper.

Edwards Edwards are a company that note how they “are proud to be Welsh and believe in the values this brings.

These values include a respect for the land we live in and those we share it with. That’s why we are working hard to create a positive impact outside of creating award winning foods. This includes helping to fight food waste by donating any surplus Edwards products to local charities and community initiatives who help provide food to those who need it most.” Edwards believes in quality and on their website, it states, “From our roots as a high street butcher we understand that quality is what makes people come back again and again, that’s why quality is at the core of everything we do. Whether that’s sourcing the finest cuts of meat or working our hardest to bring you the best time after time. We know the value of good quality ingredients, that’s why all of the chicken and pork we use is carefully sourced from Red Tractor accredited farms and our beef is all PGI Status Welsh Beef. This means it’s from animals born and bred in Wales, who have benefited from our unique climate and lush green landscape to produce the most succulent beef with its own delicious flavour.” Edwards are leading the market with their range of products, this Saint David’s day so why not make a meal from delicious full of flavour Pork & Welsh Leek Sausages, a recipe they have mastered with the perfect blend of pork and Welsh Blas y Tir leeks to be rich in flavour and tender to eat.

Coco Pzazz Coco Pzazz is a small producer of cool, quirky and eclectic hand-poured chocolates and fudge based in Montgomeryshire in a mini-chocolate factory in the rolling hills of Mid-Wales. Their range is full of products that champion Wales, its language and heritage from the packaging displaying artwork of Wales to rich Welsh ingredients and flavours such as `Bara Brith’ milk chocolate. Their products are all environmentally friendly, focusing on being carbon neutral, use 100% renewable energy and sustainably grown.

Welsh Witch - Wild Moon The Wild Moon Distillery in North Wales was founded by the Welsh Witch, who are creators of premium craft spirits: magical potions that excite the senses, bring people together and tell a story. Their collection of spirits is based around Welsh folklore and Celtic pagan traditions, such as using natural botanicals, syncing their production with the lunar cycles and reiki cleansing their spirits. All of their spirits are handcrafted in the Wild Moon Distillery in Wrexham, North Wales for an authentic taste of the mystical countryside. Since the launch in 2019 they have been taking the gin-industry by storm; their multi award-winning Wheel of the Year Spirit Collection marries Celtic pagan sabbats with spellbinding flavour combinations to celebrate the cyclical nature of our world. Bringing together magical Welsh folklore, a history of witchcraft and luxury botanical spirits.

Tidy Tea Delicious tea made in the heart of Ceredigion. As farmers, Tidy Tea work with the land and with nature – not against it, and their passion is for sustainable production systems and of course a Tidy cup of tea that gives the farmers a fair price. Not only do they sustainably source their teas but they ensure all packaging is plastic free. The box is 100% recyclable and the bags are compostable, plastic and GMO free.

They don’t compromise on their awesome teas at the expense of the environment. They believe we all have a part to play in ensuring a sustainable future for the next generation of tea lovers. Their packaging champions Welsh heritage and culture with a modern design.

There you have it, a taster menu on the fabulous Welsh heritage, culture and infusion of products out there for you to enjoy and tuck into this Saint David’s day (and beyond of course). From a mouth watering ‘Snowdonia Wagyu’ starter followed by traditional Welsh ‘Cawl and Co’ cawl to be enjoyed with some crusty bread lathered in ‘Castle Dairies’ traditional welsh butter. You could also try ‘Edwards’ pork and leek sausages as a main and finish with a feast of sweet treats to choose from ‘Fat Bottom Welsh Cakes’ and their glorious flavours

or why not try something a little different with a twist from ‘The Patty Man’. Alternatively, there really isn’t anything better than some comforting ‘Tidy Tea’ and a bit of chocolate from ‘Coco Pazazz’. If looking for something a little stronger this Saint David’s Day, then why not treat yourself to a tipple filled with Welsh folklore and Celtic pagan traditions with a glass of gin from the ‘Welsh Witch’ that will have you celebrating in style.

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Caroline Sarll Take a leek My husband thinks they taste of soap. The boys in my primary school fire-breathed in the faces of us cowering, shawl-clad girls, after munching them raw during our March 1st Eisteddfod. The French call them the “poor man’s asparagus” (such Gaul, ha ha).

Yet our late Queen Elizabeth had them embroidered symbolically into her Coronation gown. As we lurch towards St. David’s Day, I think it’s high time we elevated this annual all-daffs-but-no-drama dampsquib-of-a-day, by really championing - and devouring - the clearly not-so-humble leek. Packed with a greeny-goodness cocktail of vitamins and minerals, no wonder King Cadwalader of Gwynedd led his troops to victory over the Saxons, just by shoving them in their caps. Maybe we should brandish our homegrown leeks again and march on the Senedd, demanding a national, Welsh-food-filled holiday on our Saint-saluting day.

Hmmm.

Now that Blas y Tir’s Pembroke allium porrum (oh, how Latin O-level lingers) has been accorded PGI aka Protected Geographic status, let’s park our prejudices regarding the leek’s pong and pungency and place them centre-table. There are now so many mouthwatering, sweet and earthy recipes - a nationalistic nod to the leek-only diet our ascetic David allegedly followed.

Choose from Glamorgan sausages, stuffed butternut squash with leek and Blaenafon Cheese’s Pwll Ddu, creamy leek risotto, or the classic vichyssoise. Medwyn Williams, often dubbed the Lord of The Leeks, and proud grower of a six-footer with “the girth the size of an old milk bottle”, would like his prize winners to also be given PGI, redressing the North-South divide. Take note, ministers, please.

If, like me, you have a lingering dose of PYCL Post-Yuletide Cooking Lethargy - then Hey Vegan, a Carmarthenshire-based venture, does a dangerously moist and moreish leek, cranberry and stuffing pie.

More mass-produced and bwyd bwffe, Swansea’s Lewis Pies boasts a hearty and feeding lacto cheese and leek rissole, the perfect bedfellow for apricot, garlic and surprise! - leek jam. My leek and cheese galette uses sheaths of Blas-y Tir’s trusty truncheons (“Wales in every bite”), caramelised with garlic, then comfortingly combined with generous helpings of royally-stamped Caws Cenarth’s Perl Las and Organic Ginger cheeses.

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Blonde and beautiful, the former is jasper-gemmed and creamy and the latter, frumbly (firm, yet crumbly) and fragrant. Ladle in the double cream, gently simmer and you’ll do well to avoid a saliva garnish. Seriously, it’s the gastronomic equivalent of stepping on the head of a rake and getting whacked in the chops (veggie chops, obvs). Talk about waking up your palate. Garnish with one of life’s simplest culinary delights: circles of freshly cut, still-soily leeks, crisp Catherine wheels to light up your soul and yes, spark your national pride.

In those stinky-breathed half-schooldays (can we at least reinstate that holiday for all workers, puh-lease?) the betgwns and beribboned buckram hats were always complemented by plates of hot-off-the griddle picau ar y maen (Welsh cakes), invariably cooked by our housecoated, tabardy grandmas. These days, we’ve come a long way from the traditional curranty creations, with all sorts of flavours to whet our wayhay-we’re-Welsh! appetites. And, guess what? Two award-winning companies, Newport-based The Rogue Welsh Cake Company and Mamgu Welshcakes (from St. David’s, no less) offer a cheese and – further surprise! - leek variety. Both best served warm, Rogue’s is a doughy, moist, palate-pampering miracle, with the same dense, yet light texture of a brownie and, oh, what a lingering cheeky (aka cheesy-leeky) chew. Mamgu’s is more scone-like and soaked up an added daub of Collier’s salted butter. Ambrosial! Mamgu’s delicately almondy Cherry Bakewell or dragon-fiery ginger varieties are inventive and quirky, retaining the trad form whilst upending our preconceptions. Rogue’s utterly inspired bara Brith version blends soaked-in-sweet tea, crushed-coal-like currants with cinnamon, superbly mimicking the speckled ebony of its prototype. Coated in glistening sugar, these glittery orbs are patriotic, celebratory - and evocative.

One mouthful and I’m back on the Nottage Primary stage, aged 8, reciting Sioni Wynwns, dreaming of our half-day trip to Dowlais, where my own grandma would oil her cast-iron griddle and serve up the sweetest, fluffiest picau by the pound, until the belt on my betgwn burst. Ascetic? Dim diolch. Gwyl means feastival. That’s what Dydd Gwyl Dewi is all about.

Tuck in, everyone, to all our homespun offerings. See you outside the Senedd?

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Destination Moreish Menai

Sheeps and leeks

Ouzo and Olive

It’s difficult to choose any one iconic image to sum up gloriously Instagramable North Wales but strolling through Caernarfon always feels like wandering onto a film set. Perched as it is between the mountains and the sea, this remarkable town has too much grit to be quaint and it is not surprising that a place so full of both history and chutzpah has a thriving food culture.

In May, the whole town fills with the community led Food Festival which delights those seeking novelty, showcases a vast range of high-quality local ingredients and strengthens the association of Wales with culinary excellence. But there is plenty of good food available throughout the year in Caernarfon. The Black Boy is one of the few pubs which warrants being described as ‘legendary,’ and though much of its reputation stems from its unique atmosphere, the beamed dining-room is known as the Four and Six Room, the food is always delicious, whether you are catching a sandwich and some Scrappy Chips on the hotly contested outside tables, one of their hearty pies or a local steak. I also always find that if you eat where the farmers eat, you won’t be disappointed in the quality of the meat.

Tucked up a side street is Ouzo and Olive, an airy Greek restaurant which serves a strong selection of well-prepared meze dishes, ideal for those who enjoy sharing. In our family, the usual rule is ‘touch my plate, feel my fork’ but Ouzo and Olive is no place to be proprietorial. Their Lahankia disabused me of my conviction that I cook the best roasted vegetables in the world and the Stifado was tender and hauntingly aromatic. I won’t tell you what my companions ate because, between the three of us, we probably ate almost everything on the menu, gazing from each other’s plates with bovine amiability.

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Melys Cheesecakes may specialize in the eponymous creamy pud, but their unpretentious lunches are always delivered with a side order of panache. Cwtched up on one of their vast sofas, there is a clear and present danger that something like their excellent bagels or the Loaded Chips will leave you no room for something sweet, which means you would miss out on their new Toffee Crisp Cheesecake. And that would be a tragedy, but they will put a slice in a box and a brisk walk along Cei Llechi will restore your appetite.

Sheeps and Leeks have been deservedly scooping up the plaudits, being included in the Michelin and Good Food Guides: it won the coveted Restaurant of The Year North in the Welsh Food Awards. What it lacks in glitz and architectural glamour, it makes up for in spades with imagination and knowledge of local produce. It’s a smart move in an area like this to have two tasting menus at different price points: the seven course is served with the same flair as the ten course.

They also offer a Saturday lunch which is possibly the best value in Wales: other establishments could learn from this inclusive approach because we all know that in the Welsh hospitality industry, you need a home crowd to keep you going when the well-heeled visitors have disappeared. So many a Cofi Dre who has enjoyed the Sheeps and Leeks Saturday lunch can be turned into a faithful returning customer, treating themselves on special occasions. Paul Hearn has really achieved something remarkable and deserves praise for his ethos as well as his food.

Dining I don’t get across the Bridge as often as I should so it’s lucky for me that Hooton’s Homegrown had branched out from their base at Brynsiencyn, with branches now at the Fron Goch Garden Centre and in Llanfair PG. You can tell a great deal about the quality of produce by the people that buy it so if Hooton’s vegetables are good enough for Paul Hearn at Sheeps and Leeks, they’re good enough for me. I’ll be back later in the year for their celebrated asparagus but for now am contenting myself with some excellent root vegetables. Obviously, the parsnip is a stalwart of any decent Sunday lunch, but I am also fond of hashing them up with bacon, and that puts the spotlight on this otherwise rather diffident vegetable: Hooton’s parsnips were full of deep flavour, an earthy tone cutting through the sweetness.

First stop over the bridge is Porthaethwy, famous as the home of The Only Waitrose for Miles Around. But there is no need to potch about with supermarkets as the smell of the pizza from Plus 39 draws one inexorably to Ynys Mon’s home of Pinsa, a cloud like pizza variant. The fact that it takes its name from the dialling code for Italy is a clue to the authenticity of the food provided by Jane and Alessandro. Addicted as I am to anchovies, I was drawn to the Napoli but swerved at the last minute to the Bruschetta Fiama, with its punchy nduja and soft cheese topping forming a lesson in the varied influences on Italian food. It’s worth giving them a ring beforehand if you have any dietary requirements as, for example, the gluten free dough needs preparing in advance.

Given that the team at Dylan’s were recently awarded the title of Welsh Food and Drink Champions and their sauces have made their way onto the shelves in

Marks and Spencer, I couldn’t pass them by. This is not the place to discuss the whole Dylan’s phenomenon, but they share with Paul Hearn the crusade to demystify good local food. The Menai Mussels would always be my choice and I was delighted to see they were providing them as an option on the Childrens’ Menu. It is so refreshing to move away from the dreaded Dino Bites and Crayons combo: my girls would have been particularly chuffed to see the warning that the mussels may contain small pearls.

Regretting that I had chosen the wrong time of the year for one of their Wild Seaweed Baths, I was mesmerised by the on-site shop at Halen Mon. There is, one might say, salt and salt and the range on display there is both inspirational and a bit overwhelming.

They have branched out into gin and the faintest hint of Halen Mon gives Gin Môr a definitive nautical edge.

I topped up on the Oak Smoked Salt which gives a full wild outdoors makeover to the most undistinguished chop and ventured the Black Garlic Ketchup, which has proved as addictive as the review in The Times suggested. It’s versatile enough to add oomph in many culinary endeavours but I fear I’m squandering mine on my toasted cheese, where it elevates a mundane lunch.

The combination of a growing cadre of top-quality producers, local people who care about their food heritage and enough extra trade in the summer to help make the sums add up means there is fertile ground for culinary excellence on both sides of the Menai Strait.

It’s great to see imaginative champions making the most of these advantages.

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CELTIC PRESERVES

Elevate Your Taste Experience Redefining the Taste of Tradition

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Food experiences as gifts Seeking the perfect birthday, anniversary, St Dwynwen’s or Valentine’s gift each year is always a challenge, especially in an age where stuff for stuff’s sake is losing its appeal. Sarah Morgan Jones provides some helpful inspiration to finding that perfect gift idea.

Choosing gifts which make memories, endow new skills, or indulge your loved one (or yourself, even) in a longed-for experience, is a big win for the provider and recipient alike. Be it breadmaking, brewing or foraging the hedgerows and coastlines for the makings of the freshest and most sustainable supper, Welsh small businesses provide the inspired treat for ourselves or the most awkward of family members.

Bread and cake making became a national sport during the pandemic and associated lockdowns. If you didn’t get into making sourdough and banana bread while you were forced to stay home, then one can only assume you took a degree in Homes Under the Hammer or ‘Boxsets of Netflix’ instead.

continental breads, while in Brecon, Caroline’s bakery school (carolinesrealbreadcompany.co.uk) teaches cake and bread making on a full or half day basis plus a children’s baking experience.

If your passion is for pasta then Bodnant Cookery School (www.bodnant-welshfood.co.uk) in Colwyn Bay offers affordable workshops from beginners through to advance pasta making in their mouthwatering menu of classes and events.

Versatile and rewarding, understanding the science of yeasts, flour and water opens the door not only to the hearty and heavenly centre of any homely kitchen table, but also to the fancier varieties of the staff of life.

Wales offers a plethora of breadmaking experience days, suitable for a variety of budgets, ranging from gaining a grasp of the basics to crafting breads from around the world. For example, in the pretty North Wales village of Overton on Dee, Liz Wilson – Ma Baker (mabaker.uk) - shares the secrets of her breadmaking and micro bakery skills to those who share her love for bread.

At the Abergavenny Baker (www.abergavennybaker. co.uk) you can book your dough-maniac in for sourdough days, classes in Italian, French, Nordic and middle eastern breadmaking styles, send the whole family to group classes, and find a new way to engage with the pre-frontal-lober in your house.

A day at the Gower Heritage Centre (www.gowerheritagecentre.co.uk/traditional-breadmaking) can take you from grinding the flour through to the finished loaf, offering an insight into the history of growing and grinding grains in a place which has been doing so for 900 years.

Highs and Loaves (www.highsandloavesbreadmaking. com) in Cardiff offers full and half day classes in breadmaking for beginners, festive treats, herb and

Angela Gray’s Cookery School (www.angelagray. co.uk) at Llanerch Vineyard hosts pasta making workshops amid its full calendar of standalone cookery days exploring flavours from around the world.

For the younger aspiring cook, Y Sied (www.ysied.co.uk) in Carmarthenshire offers a full range of cookery courses, both on site, in schools and in kit form (Pecyn Pobi), as well as some great workshops and demonstrations for adults and groups too.

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If your youngster can’t get enough of pizza, then you could do worse than take them to a pizza making class, as offered by the Walled Garden (www.thewalledgardenschool.co.uk) under the tutelage of Hawarden Estate chef, Adam Williams.

If getting outdoors is preferable to hanging out in a kitchen, then a foraging day may be the answer.

Coastal and countryside foraging events comes in full and half day packages and entail seeking out and identifying what is seasonally available and, most importantly, safe to gather, process and consume.

Sustainability and seasonality are key, with the knowledge of what is good to take and when, imparted to the intrepid forager.

Discover the Wild (www.discoverthewild.co.uk) offer short walks in the Abergele area identifying edible and non-edible coastal plants, while in South-West Wales, Craig Evans and his trusty right-hand dog Llew, offer a range of experiences on an individual, group or corporate basis, with the tantalising strapline ‘When the tide is out, the table is set’.

Wales is no stranger to a good tipple and whether it’s a spirit, a wine or a beer there are options available for every palate. If whisky gets you going, Aber Falls (www.aberfallsdistillery.com), in the breathtaking landscape between Eryri and the Menai Straits at Abergwyngregyn, offers distillery tours and experiences learning about their single malt and a chance to sample their award-winning spirits. With a visitor’s centre and café serving good, locally sourced food for all diets, the option to invest in your own cask of whisky and even the chance to venture into the world of gin distilling, the gift of a day out in Aber Falls will win plenty of brownie points.

At Hensol Castle (www.hensolcastledistillery.com), the making and tasting of gin and spiced rum followed up with a sumptuous afternoon tea in a 17th century castle has all the hallmarks of a memorable experience.

With two new distilleries to its name, Penderyn (www.penderyn.wales) now offers visitors tours and masterclasses in Llandudno, Swansea Copperworks and its traditional home near Brecon.

Head west to Tan-y-groes, Ceredigion, In the Welsh Wind Distillery (inthewelshwind.co.uk) offers a range of gin-tasting, -tailoring and -making experiences, along with cocktail masterclasses and the opportunity to pick up spirited gifts for the rest of the family.

The Velfrey Vineyard (www.velfreyvineyard.com) is a family run venture between Whitland and Narberth in South Pembrokeshire and hosts tours and a deluxe vineyard experience, pairing their wine with cheese and charcuterie. They also offer the chance to adopt one of their many vines, which comes with a bottle of fizz, recognition of your sponsorship and the chance to snip your own grapes come harvest time.

In the North, similar experiences can be had with regular tours, tastings and treats at the Gwinllan Conwy (gwinllanconwy.co.uk), which also offers mail order gift hampers of Welsh produce which complement their award winning wines.

In North Wales, coastal foraging walks are offered

by Original Outdoors (courses.originaloutdoors. co.uk) comprising an introduction to edible shellfish, plants, seaweeds, and other wild foods on the beaches of North Wales during outings timed to coincide with the tide. They also have courses on foraging wild food which can be found in the fields and woodland and, funghi specific days.

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If beer is your bag, then there is absolutely no shortage of opportunities to sample great brews all across the country. From Mŵs Piws (purplemoose.co.uk) to Gower Gold (gowerbrewery.com), the Magic Dragon (magicdragonbrewing.com) to Bluestone Brewing (www.bluestonebrewing.co.uk), Bragdy Cybi (www.bragdycybi.cymru) to Tiny Rebel (www.tinyrebel.co.uk) and all points in between, quality Welsh beers and ciders are as ubiquitous as paned o de.

For an A-Z of Welsh breweries, ale and cider festivals, the Brewery Bible (www.thebrewerybible.com) has an interactive map and all the information necessary to delight the ale fan in your life.

ROGUE WELSHCAKES … Welsh Cakes with a Twist.

Our handmade, freshly baked Welsh Cakes can be delivered directly to your home or business. They come in a variety of flavours including our signature, Great Taste Award winning Bara Brith, Chocolate & Salted Caramel, Cheese & Leek and so many more …

Rogue Welsh Cakes make the perfect gift for your clients or hotel guests and they’re a proven showstopper at weddings and events.

Visit our website www.roguewelshcakes.com - or for bespoke orders, get in touch with Joe at Rogue: info@ roguewelshcakes.com, Instagram @roguewelshcakes or call 07919800252.

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News

Hold the front page Welsh beer and spirits industries plan for robust future At a time of unprecedented challenges, Welsh beer and spirits producers have gathered in Cardiff to launch national plans to help them address both the cost-ofliving crisis and spiralling costs, and drive industry collaboration and growth.

Year to celebrate for Welsh farmedowned creamery South Caernarfon Creameries is celebrating a bumper year of awards, winning a record 97 accolades. Many were bagged at the International Cheese Awards, where its Dragon Handcrafted Ruby won Supreme Champion Cheese and its Dragon Salted Butter won Supreme Champion Butter.

Shon Jones, Cheese Quality Manager said, “This year’s remarkable achievement is a testament to our dedication to quality and innovation. Our team’s relentless pursuit of excellence in cheese-making is reflected in each award we’ve won. These accolades not only honour our craft but also highlight the rich heritage and exceptional quality of Welsh dairy products on the global stage.”

Wales’s leading dairy company also raised £1,000 for Cancer Research Wales through its annual Christmas raffle, smashing all previous records.

Committed to community well-being, the farmers’ co-operative was delighted at this achievement. SCC’s Managing Director, Alan Wyn Jones said, “Our annual Christmas raffle is a big event for all the staff and there’s much enthusiasm. There were a number of great prizes, all donated by our suppliers, and we would like to thank them for their generosity.”

For local stockists, or to buy Dragon’s excellent butters and cheeses go to: www.dragonwales.co.uk

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The drinks industry is integral to the Welsh economy, with a turnover last year of more than £820 million, making it the fourth largest food sector in Wales, after red meat, dairy and bakery. It also employs more than 1,200 people, many of them based in rural locations.

Backed by the Welsh Government, the industry has pledged to increase sales of Welsh beers and spirits; to increase brewery and distillery tours for tourists; to increase exports; to upskill the workforce; and to encourage closer collaboration across the supply chain to help with cost savings.

The Welsh beer industry has experienced unprecedented disruption in recent years, with the Covid pandemic proving to be particularly damaging amidst continuing pub closures. However, 60 established brewers remain in Wales, and a further 63 smaller enterprises.

Richard Lever of Magic Dragon Brewing, the oldest microbrewery in Wales said, “We can see that people are prepared to pay a premium for a quality product, and we are blessed in Wales to have so many breweries who take pride in their product and are prepared to work collaboratively with each other to help drive the industry forward.”

The Welsh spirits sector is a relatively small but thriving sector. With 53 companies employing more than 300 people, it plays a crucial role in preserving cultural heritage, promoting local economies, and celebrating the unique flavours and traditions of Wales.

In a significant milestone, Single Malt Welsh Whisky was recently awarded Protected Geographical Indication status, in recognition of its unique flavour and tradition.

News

Young chefs shine at PGI inspired Welsh championships The new National Chef of Wales is 28-year-old Josh Morris, who works as a senior sous chef at the Palé Hall Hotel in Snowdonia.

A former Junior Chef of Wales finalist, who is originally from Porthcawl, he was presented with his trophy by Minister for Rural Affairs Lesley Griffiths at an awards dinner organised by the Culinary Association of Wales (CAW). The chefs’ challenge was to cook a three-course menu featuring six Welsh GI products.

Josh’s starter was confit of Pembrokeshire potatoes, hay, truffle and baked potato dash. His main course was roasted Gower salt marsh lamb, lamb shoulder and Welsh leek hot pot, cavolo nero and black garlic tapenade. Dessert was white chocolate and meadowsweet parfait, cinnamon and Denbigh plums.

Talented Mid Wales chef Sam Everton also chalked off a bucket list wish by becoming the new Junior Chef of Wales. Sam, 25, is a lecturer at Coleg Ceredigion in Cardigan and part-time junior sous chef at Y Seler, Aberaeron. Sam, whose commis chef was one of his students from Y Seler, has previously competed for Wales and the UK and plans to compete for the National Chef of Wales next year, as he bids to win the two titles in consecutive years.

The junior chefs had three hours to cook a two-course dinner for six, with a vegetarian starter, and a main course using two different cuts of GI Welsh beef and at least four Welsh GI products overall. Sam’s winning menu was a starter of laverbread gnocchi, infused root vegetables, Caerphilly cheese, toasted turnip top and watercress velouté; and his main course was a celebration of Welsh beef with locally sourced sirloin, braised beef cheek, textures of mushroom and onion and a truffled beef reduction.

A team of two apprentices from Chartists 1770 at The Trewythen won the new Green Chef Challenge, which was introduced due to the growing demand for vegetarian food and was open to chefs under the age of 25.

Summing up the event, which was hosted by the International Convention Centre in Newport, CAW vice president and judging panel chairman Colin Gray congratulated all the finalists saying, “They are the future of our industry and are all winners in our eyes for having the courage to compete.”

Aber Falls launches new malt to toast St David’s Day One of Wales’ leading distillers, Aber Falls Distillery in North Wales, has chosen St David’s Day on March 1st to launch its first age statemented Single Malt Welsh Whisky as a Single Cask Limited Edition.

Work mates Gabbi Wilson and Rosie Koffer, who work at the boutique training restaurant in Llanidloes, midWales, were delighted to win this new event and will now see their winning dishes served in the restaurant.

Be prepared to experience a 6-year-old oloroso cask release at 46% ABV, with a deep amber gold colour, a creamy marzipan, red fruit, mixed spice and Christmas cake nose. The palate features oak and ginger notes, with sweet treacle and rich ripe fruit, and a long finish with hints of cereal and dried fruits.

Their menu featured tempura seaweed tacos with pickled cabbage slaw, cashew cream and falafel; braised leeks, pomme dauphine, sauteed mushrooms and green leek mayo; and a dessert of vanilla Cremieux with caramac, lemon curd, lemon and cider gel, poached pears and a brown butter crumb.

Located in Abergwyngregyn, near the spectacular Aber Falls waterfall, between Snowdonia and the Menai Straits, the Aber Falls distillery offers a breathtaking distillery tour experience, as well as a gin lab and bistro. In addition, picnic baskets featuring local Welsh produce are on sale for hungry walkers.

Chartists 1770 is a restaurant with rooms owned by the Cambrian Training Company, which is the leading hospitality apprenticeship provider in Wales. It has two rosettes and four stars, and a team of eight apprentices - four in the kitchen and four front-of-house.

If you’re not able to visit in person, why not reserve your bottle of Aber Falls’ latest limited-edition whisky at: www.aberfallsdistillery.com

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News

Monty’s celebrates 15 years brewing with new IPA

in Wales which uses only Welsh grown barley in its Welsh origin whisky, and which completes the entire process, from malting the grain to bottling the matured product, at its site near the market town of Cardigan.

Multi award-winning Monty’s Brewery from Powys is celebrating its fifteenth birthday this year with a series of special edition launches aimed at craft beer enthusiasts.

Buyers of the 30 litre casks were able to choose their cask seasoning from a selection which ranged from the traditional, like red wine and sherry, to the experimental, like Tequila.

Its latest release is Red IPA, which is a gluten free bottled beer which features tropical aromas, with hints of grapefruit and mango from the Jester hops, a sweet smooth taste from the crystal malts, and a bitter dry finish.

Co-owner & Director of ‘In the Welsh Wind’, Ellen Wakelam, said, “To have sold out of our 30 litre casks is a massive achievement for us. We are hugely grateful that so many people have seen the excitement in what we are doing.

In January the team also released 500 bottles of limited-edition Bourbon barrel aged imperial stout, named simply XV. At 11.6% ABV, it’s not for the faint hearted, but the aromas of the whisky and Bourbon, and the kick of the Welsh whisky are exquisite.

“We had the idea to sell casks of our new make liquid as a way to allow people to join us on our journey to a Welsh origin whisky. Our whisky sits firmly within the Single Malt Welsh Whisky PGI status that was announced last year. Research with the Open University suggests that the combination of local barley and on-site malting gives our whisky a flavour profile unique to south Ceredigion.”

All special editions are available from Monty’s website, with next day delivery often an option. www.montysbrewery.co.uk

Welsh distillery sells out inaugural cask release West Wales distillery ‘In the Welsh Wind’ has sold out of its inaugural release of 30 litre casks. The distillery, which pioneers locally grown Welsh barley and the use of ‘green’ unkilned malt, will now focus on the release of its bottles.

The 30 litre casks were created to allow enthusiasts to own some unique 100% Welsh single malt whisky.

‘In the Welsh Wind’ is currently the only distillery

Whisky afficionados will be able to try ‘In the Welsh Wind’s’ first single malt Welsh whisky in late Spring, when the first limited edition bottle release is anticipated. With the recent upsurge in interest in Welsh whisky, the distillery is expecting demand for its first bottle releases to be high.

To find out more, or to plan a visit, go to: www.inthewelshwind.co.uk

Rising stars shine brightly at Taste Wales event A group of rising stars from the Welsh food and drink industry have been showcasing their products at a leading industry food and drink event.

The BlasCymru/TasteWales event, which is organised annually by Welsh Government, featured many hundreds of exhibitors, and among them were 14 talented and growing Welsh producers who had been nominated as Rising Stars.

Among them were Wrexham-based Grazed Bakery, owned by Mark and Renee Thompson and Caernarfon-based Fungi Foods. The company’s owner and mushroom connoisseur Gareth Griffith-Swain, said, ‘It’s been a real knowledge exchange.’ And he acknowledged the support he had received from Cywain.

Cywain is a Welsh Government funded project which supports the development of ambitious Welsh food and drink businesses. It also recently supported an Enterprise Carnival organised by the Centre for African Entrepreneurship, held at the Urban Kitchen in Swansea, which saw members of South Wales’ ethnically diverse communities come together to discuss opportunities for growth.

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CELTIC PIES

IN WA DE

RU

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YR

Y

M

CY

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S LE

MA

“PIES MADE WITH THE FINEST INGREDIENTS”

CH O G

#CHFOODS

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Restaurant Reviews

Tir a Môr, St David’s Hotel, Cardiff The restaurant at St David’s Hotel has been through a number of guises over the years but, as its current name suggests, the emphasis these days is on the cuisine of Wales. And rightly so. As arguably the capital’s most renowned hotel and named after our patron saint it should always have been thus.

Having said that, with a relaxed, slightly maritime ambience that takes full advantage of the panoramic view over Cardiff Bay, you could almost be on the med or even the Florida Keys. But a quick look at the menu brings you straight back home, full as it is of Welsh produce. Our friendly and knowledgeable host, Andrew, took time to talk it through, guiding us toward two stunning cocktail aperitifs to kick off proceedings. The Cardiff Spritz, with its base of Cardiff Distillery Pink Sophia gin, was a refreshing blast of bitter-sweetness, and the theatrical Smoke Old Fashioned, with a Penderyn peated whisky at its heart, was a dark, mysterious masterpiece.

As we chose our dishes we nibbled on light, fluffy on the inside, crisp on the outside flatbreads, sprinkled with deeply flavoured Halen Môn Sea Salt and fresh rosemary, just the right amount to tingle tastebuds, without inviting a thirst.

My starter of Severn & Wye smoked salmon, cod and spring onion fishcake could have been overpowering, but was quite the contrary. Lovely, delicately balanced flavours and a light flaky consistency, set off by a

dreamy dill sauce and golden, poached egg atop, that oozed eggy goodness when broken. B’s beautifully presented Roast Pear with Perl Las was a triumph of contrasting textures and flavours. Sumptuous pastry wrapping, soft and sweet pear with a pungent blue cheese stuffing and crisp chicory, beautifully embellished with red wine jus jewels. Dramatic combinations that sung like a male-voice choir.

A main of slow cooked Welsh beef brisket was just the ticket for a late winter’s Sunday evening. The substantial mound was tender, falling apart at the dab of a fork and full of beefy flavour, made even better by a crown of bone marrow. Served with perfectly cooked caramelised roasted root veg, weeny but intense forest mushrooms and a finely judged and delicious jus, that accentuated rather than overpowered, it was a hearty, rustic treat. By way of contrast, B’s gnocchi was an explosion of mediterranean colour, replete with vivid purple potatoes, bright red tomato, lush green spinach and courgette adorning the cream-coloured gnocchi.

And it tasted as good as it looked – perfectly cooked al dente gnocchi and a rich melange of flavours that worked together harmoniously, all underpinned by a deeply flavoursome aubergine and mushroom pesto, which seemed to have a hint of warming five spice. An honourable mention to the Blas y Tir sourced leek and sauteed potato with garlic side – so good you’d happily eat it on its own.

And so, to dessert. The reconstructed Bara Brith Bread and Butter pud was divine. The core elements of Bara Brith, tea-soaked soft dried fruit and brioche style bread, layered atop one another, augmented by winter spices (and possibly a little toffee treacle) and partnered with a scoop of Vanilla ice-cream. The dark chocolate tart with orange sorbet was more than a match. Luxuriously intense chocolate with a firm creamy consistency, on a bed of buttery short pastry, beautifully paired with a sharply contrasting citrus gel and zinging sorbet, that took it to another level.

Two desserts that were totally different, but equally triumphant.

Tir a Môr’s chefs have adopted a light touch with the dishes we tried, letting the core ingredients speak for themselves and to each other, using only a gentle hand to elevate dishes. Thanks to the quality of the many Welsh ingredients used, that’s all that’s necessary. The real skill is the creative art of choosing what works with what, and then (of course) cooking them to perfection. The result is a real showcase of what can be done with quality Welsh produce. Tir a Môr is a lesson to diners, guests (many of whom will be just passing through) and fellow restaurateurs across Wales, in all that can be achieved when we use the bounty of our homeland. voco® St David’s Cardiff Havannah Street, Cardiff CF10 5SD www.stdavids.vocohotels.com +44 (0) 29 2045 4045

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Gwasanaeth Cynghori ar Fwyd a Diod Cymru yw Cywain, rydym yn cynnig cymorth wedi’i deilwra i bob cam o siwrnai twf eich busnes – o adnoddau ar-lein, ar ddechrau’r daith i fentora, a helpu busnesau sefydledig i wireddu eu potensial twf llawn.

As the Wales Food & Drink Advisory Service, we offer support tailored to your business stage – from online resources to support your early days to mentoring, to help established businesses realise their full growth potential.

Os ydych chi’n gynhyrchydd bwyd neu ddiod gallwn ni eich helpu chi hefyd!

If you are a food or drink producer we can help you too!

Rydym yn gweithio gyda chynhyrchwyr ledled Cymru yn cynnig cefnogaeth a gwybodaeth i ddatblygu a thyfu busnes.

We work with producers from across Wales giving them support and the knowledge they need to develop and grow their business.

Gadewch i ni ddechrau’r sgwrs, cysylltwch â ni heddiw...

Let’s start the conversation, get in touch with us today...

cywain@menterabusnes.co.uk

Recipes

Harissa-crusted rack of PGI Welsh lamb with pomegranate couscous SERVES 4 AS A MAIN COURSE

Ingredients • • • • • • • • • • • •

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2 trimmed racks of PGI Welsh Lamb 100g breadcrumbs 2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses 1 tablespoon harissa 120g couscous 1 large courgette 100g pomegranate seeds 1 lemon 175g water 1⁄2 teaspoon turmeric 1⁄2 teaspoon paprika 1 small handful parsley

Method 1.

Preheat your oven to 190 °C.

2.

Season the lamb with salt and pepper to taste, before searing on all sides in a hot frying pan with a tablespoon of oil.

3.

Mix the harissa and the breadcrumbs together in a small food processor, you may also need to add a drizzle of olive oil to thin the harissa out a bit.

4.

Remove the lamb from the pan when brown on all sides and brush with pomegranate molasses, then press the breadcrumbs onto the sticky molasses to coat the rack.

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5.

Place the lamb on a rack on a baking tray and place into the hot oven for 8 minutes, at which point you can check for doneness with a meat thermometer, or by inserting a metal skewer to the bone – the skewer will be hot to the touch when you remove it from the lamb if it is cooked medium.

6.

While the lamb is in the oven, slice the courgette into ribbons with a vegetable peeler and chargrill. Also, toss the dry couscous with the spices and a pinch of salt, boil the water and pour it over the couscous in a bowl, and cover.

7.

When the lamb is cooked, uncover the couscous and fluff it up with a fork, stir through the chopped parsley and pomegranate seeds, carve the rack of lamb and serve it on top of the couscous, with wedges of lemon.

Recipes

Welsh Beef Steak Chasseur

Prep time: 15 mins Cook time: 15 mins Serves 2

• • •

Ingredients

Method

•

1.

• • •

2 PGI Welsh Beef sirloin steaks (can use other steaks) 1 tbsp oil Knob of butter Seasoning

For the sauce: • 1 tbsp oil • 25g butter • 6 medium mushrooms • 1 onion, finely chopped • 1 tbsp plain flour • 1 glass red wine • 2 tbsp brandy • 200ml rich beef stock • 3 tomatoes, chopped • 1 tsp tomato purée

Dash of Worcestershire sauce Seasoning Handful chopped parsley

5.

While the sauce is simmering, cook the steaks.

6.

Heat the pan until hot, and add the oil.

Season the steaks and place in the hot pan.

Remove the steaks from the fridge 30 mins prior to cooking.

7.

Cook on a high heat for few minutes (to your liking).

2.

Make the sauce – place the oil and butter in a pan, then add the onion and mushrooms and fry gently for 5 minutes until softened.

8.

Turn the steaks and add the butter. Baste the steaks whilst cooking with the melted butter and oil.

3.

Add the flour and stir well for 2 minutes, gradually add the wine and brandy and bring to the boil.

9.

Cook for 2 minutes each side for medium rare (4 minutes for medium and 6 minutes for well done).

4.

Add the stock, chopped tomatoes, purée, seasoning and Worcestershire sauce.

Bring to the boil and simmer for 5 minutes until the sauce is nice and glossy and thickened. Add the chopped parsley.

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10. Allow the steaks to rest for 5 minutes.

11. Serve the steaks topped with the Chasseur sauce and sprinkle over a little chopped parsley.

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Recipes

Pedigree Welsh Pork Loin (TSG) with Denbigh Plum Stuffing & Welsh Cider Sauce

SERVES 4

DENBIGH PLUM STUFFING

PORK

CIDER SAUCE

Ingredients

Ingredients

• • • •

•

Ingredients • • • • • • •

50g of salted butter ½ tsp black pepper 2 garlic cloves, bashed 2 sprigs of thyme 200ml Traditional Welsh Cider (PGI) 1 tablespoon of whole grain mustard 100g of double cream

Method 1.

2.

3.

Add the butter, garlic, pepper and thyme to a pan and cook for a few minutes, until fragrant.

Add the cider, and simmer to reduce by half.

Add the cream and mustard, stir to combine and reduce to the consistency of single cream.

• • •

2kg loin of Pedigree Welsh Pork Loin (TSG)

Method 1.

Remove from the fridge one hour before cooking

Method

2.

Slice the skin diagonally and dry with a tea towel

1.

Melt the butter in a frying pan and add the onion and garlic, finely chopped, and sauté for 8 minutes, until soft

3.

Rub 3 tablespoons of salt into the skin and cuts and leave to stand for one hour

2.

Meanwhile, remove the stones from the plums and chop them, and blitz the bread into crumbs in a food processor

4.

After one hour wipe off all the salt, with particular attention to the cuts, and sprinkle with one teaspoon of fresh salt

3.

Add the chopped plums and the breadcrumbs to the pan, cook for 3 or 4 minutes until the breadcrumbs are golden, and then remove from the heat and leave to cool.

5.

Insert stuffing

6.

Cook at Gas Mark 6/180° for 120mins basting regularly

7.

For extra crispy crackling, turn the heat up for the last 15 minutes

4.

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20g unsalted butter 1 onion 2 cloves of garlic 6 The Vale of Clwyd Denbigh plums (PDO) 100g stale rustic-style bread 6 sprigs of fresh thyme 6 sprigs of fresh sage

Stuff into the pork loin, roast to your desired doneness and serve with cider sauce.

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Recipes

New Quay mackerel supper This recipe is based on a traditional ‘Fishguard herring supper’ – a one pot meal which you could serve with steamed broccoli or peas.

Serves 4

Ingredients • • • • •

4 medium mackerel fillets 4 medium potatoes, peeled 1 large onion 1 eating apple 1 heaped teaspoon mustard

• • • • •

1 teaspoon chopped fresh sage 3 tablespoons tarragon vinegar 200ml Welsh cider or hot water good knob butter Halen Môn sea salt and freshly-ground black pepper

2.

Line a greased ovenproof dish with thinly sliced potatoes, sliced onions and sliced apples. Sprinkle with sage, vinegar and seasoning.

3.

Half fill the dish with cider or water.

Method

4.

Dot with butter and bake in a moderate oven, 160°C/140F/Gas 3 for 30 minutes.

1.

5.

Remove from the oven and sit the mackerel fillets on top, skin up. Return to the oven and bake for a further 10 - 15 minutes until the fish is cooked through.

Spread the mustard on the fleshy part of the mackerel and season with salt and pepper.

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Recipes

Banfora: Burkina Welsh Cakes

Prep time 10 minutes Cook time 10 minutes Makes 10-12

Ingredients • • • • • • •

225g self-raising flour 100g vegan margarine 100g sugar Pinch salt 50g dried pineapple pieces 2-3 tablespoons soy or other plant-based milk 1 teaspoon mixed spice

Method

6.

1.

7.

2.

3.

4.

5.

Place the self-raising flour, sugar, mixed spice and pinch of salt into a bowl.

Rub the margarine into the flour mix with your fingertips until well combined and resembling breadcrumbs.

Mix in the dried pineapple pieces with a little of the milk until a soft but firm dough is obtained.

On a lightly floured surface, roll out the dough to about half an inch thickness.

Cut out rounds using your favourite

8.

cookie cutter.

Re-roll any leftover dough and repeat the process until all the mix is used up.

Cook the Burkina cakes on a hot griddle for about 2-3 minutes each side until they are golden brown and cooked through.

Allow to cool, sprinkle with sugar and serve with tea or a favourite drink.

Recipe from African Twist by Maggie Ogunbanwo, photographs by Huw Jones published by Graffeg.

Photography © Huw Jones

Linguine Môr Gwyrdd

Prep time: 15 minutes Cook time: 15 minutes Serves 4

Ingredients • • • • • • •

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400g dried linguine 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 green chillies 4 spring onions, sliced on the diagonal 120g samphire 1½ tablespoons capers, chopped 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

• •

2 tablespoons laverbread (or 2 sheets nori, torn) Sea salt and black pepper

4.

Method 1.

2.

3.

Cook the linguine according to the packet instructions, keeping it al dente. Once cooked, strain.

While the pasta is cooking, make the sauce. In a heavy-based frying pan, gently heat the oil over medium heat.

Add the chillies and spring onions and sauté for 1-2 minutes, stirring regularly.

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5.

Add the samphire, capers and garlic, stirring continually whilst they cook, for 2-3 minutes.

Add the laverbread (or nori), heat through for a minute, then check the seasoning (don’t forget that the capers may be quite salty already, so be careful not to over season).

Stir in the linguine, divide between 4 hot pasta dishes and serve immediately.

Recipe from Happy Beans by Jane Reynolds, photographs by Huw Jones published by Graffeg.

Photography © Huw Jones

MORGANS BREW TEA

We are specialist suppliers of loose leaf teas and infusions from established plantations.

Our blends are sourced from a collection of old and new recipes. We sell our own brand of 46 loose leaf teas and accessories via online webshop.

Our aromatic and flavour-rich blends are endlessly versatile; whether it be a satisfying cuppa, a delicate herbal pick-me-up, as an aromatic culinary ingredient or as a twist to an elegant cocktail. From black teas to caffeine-free, from herbal to fruit infusion – all our teas are blended for your enjoyment. You can drink our teas and infusions in the morning, mid-day, afternoon, evening - and as a nightcap.

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T: 01938 552 303 | M: 07713 440 558 | E: hello@morgansbrewtea.co.uk | www.morgansbrewtea.co.uk Oldford House, Berriew Road, Welshpool, Powys SY21 7SS

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Food and Drink

Food & Drink Reviews Celtic Pies

Carmarthen Ham’s Cured Beef

If you’ve ever played spot the meat when eating a pie, then you need to check out Castell Howell’s ‘Celtic Pie Company’ range of pies. With generous fillings, Welsh ingredients and traditional home-made pastry they’ve created a cracking range of pies that will sate any appetite.

Carmarthen Ham are going from strength to strength.

Their divine, traditionally dry-cured ham has received PGI status, they’re expanding into new premises and increasing production and their remarkable produce is increasingly on the menu of fine-dining restaurants across the land, for very good reason. We think it’s the best there is, from anywhere in the world.

There are common themes. The meat pies are very meaty, which, wherever possible, is Welsh sourced.

Ingredients are top notch with minimal additives, and again, Welsh sourced when they can be, whether it’s Brain’s beer or a hearty leek. The shortcrust pastry is perfect – rich, golden, and flaky, with no hint of sogginess. And they all taste wonderful.

The PGI Welsh Steak and Rev James ale combined tender chunks of beef with a deeply flavoured, beery gravy; the Chicken and Chorizo had a mellow, delicious paprika edge to it; the Stilton and Asparagus was creamy and smooth but still possessed the stridency of a good Stilton: Chicken, Leek and Bacon was just as creamy and had great, balanced, flavours; PGI Welsh Beef and Perl Las is another successful take on a classic, with succulent chunks of meat and in a rich, tangy sauce. As is the Lamb and Mint with its moreish delicate mintiness and tender Welsh lamb. All are bangin’ and what a proper pie should be. celticpie.co

carmarthendeli.co.uk

Krunchie Foods Malt Vinegar and Condiment

Morgans Brew Coventina Gin Welshpool based, Morgan’s Brew Tea have teamed up with North Star, small-batch distillers to create a tea-infused gin. The companies are well-matched, both firmly embedded in Welsh communities, paying close attention to fine detail in their production.

North Star distil using water, drawn from the foothills of Snowdonia and botanicals, gathered from local hedgerows. Morgan’s, renowned for its wonderful range of teas, have chosen to partner the gin with Oolong and Blackcurrant tea, which is added a botanical before distillation, to create Coventina, named for the queen of the river goddesses, symbolising renewal and new beginnings.

We sipped Coventina neat, enjoying warm, woody tea notes (reminiscent of the aroma of a traditional tea caddy as you open it) alongside sweet but tart blackcurrant and laid-back juniper undertones.

Adding tonic released yet more layers of flavour; oolong smokiness cut through with a delicious tangy but fruity bitter-sweetness. What gin-tea combo will they go for next? We’re hoping for a summery Earl Grey lemon Gin, but only time will tell. morgansbrewtea.co.uk

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And now they’re using a similar, though carefully guarded, process to cure beef. Needless to say, the beef used is PGI Welsh and they use the finest cuts to ensure deeply coloured, tender slices of beef. And the fat is left on! This is fundamentally important as it imparts an amazing flavour that combines wonderfully with the salt and other ingredients during curing.

Sublime.

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Krunchie Foods was established more than 80 years ago in Llanelli, to make gravy browning, malt vinegar and other condiments and ingredients. Key to the company’s longevity has been a focus on quality at an affordable and a loyal customer base that grew up with this iconic Welsh brand. Still independent, Welsh owned and based, their products are increasingly visible in shops and supermarkets across Wales as well cafes and restaurants.

Their malt vinegar uses a traditional process based on fermented malted barley (rather like beer) and has a lovely malty, nutty, slightly sweet, almost caramel, robust flavour and a sharpness that, though less acidic than some vinegars, cuts through oily foods perfectly to give a classic taste. For those who prefer an even gentler flavour their non-brewed condiment is a mellower alternative to vinegar and more closely resembles what you’d get in a chip shop. It’s made differently and is less expensive but still tastes great if this is the style you prefer.

Whether it’s in the home kitchen or on the table of any hospitality business that truly values Welshness and quality, Krunchie’s vinegars and condiments are a match, and more, for the big brands. And they’re Welsh too.

Food and Drink

Cardi Bay Bangers

Ferrari’s Coffee

Cardigan is becoming something of a foodie hotbed, with Cardigan Fish, In The Welsh Wind and Crwst paving the way. Cardi Bay Bangers from family owned Dewi James Butchers, are now joining the gang.

Whilst many will have fond memories of Ferrari’s café’s dotted around South Wales in the late 20th century, the company’s roots go much further back and revolve around coffee roasting. Bridgend based Ferrari’s Coffee can in fact trace their heritage to 1927 and still on occasion, use an original Trabattoni Roaster, a custom-made traditional roaster from a small familyowned company in Northern Italy. Ferrari’s have been particularly successful in exporting their coffee in recent years and are now on a mission to boost awareness of their award-winning coffee closer to home. The range contains quite a few blends, but we’ll be focussing on just two.

With their home-made sausage proving to be a runaway success locally they’re taking it the next level by going nationwide. Cardi Bay Bangers are the result.

No rubbish ingredients, no artificial flavours just topquality pork and proper ingredients. The first thing you notice is the lack of cookoff – that’s jargon for very little leaks from them while cooking – no water, no froth, no nasties. Then you notice how good they smell – what a way to whet the appetite.

Texture is great – nice and meaty but not chewy and absolutely no sinew or lumps of fat. But the taste! The Original is a classic style sausage with a great balance of herbs, spices and caramelised onions. It’s perfect in a cooked breakfast and a great all-rounder that’s also available as a Banger ‘Bach’ chipolata. The stronger flavoured ‘Welsh Banger’ adds a healthy dose of leek to up the savoury hit which means this baby will hold its own next to strong flavours, in casseroles, on a BBQ or at dinner time. The ‘Red Hot Chilli Banger takes it a step further – the leek and chilli adds a very pleasing, but not blistering, punch. The Apple Banger’s gentle sweetness works wonders with mash, and other evening meals, and in a sausage and bacon sarni! Great sausages, for any occasion. dewijamesbutchers.co.uk/pages/cardi-bay-bangers

First up is Siena. It’s a Great Taste 2 star winning, beast of a blend, particularly when made using an espresso machine. Although this stunning blend is aimed fairly and squarely at coffee aficionados who like their coffee strong, bold and dark, it’s still complex and multilayered, with a nutty yet sweet profile and hints of dark chocolate. It works brilliantly with milk, in a latte or cappuccino, which really brings these complexities to the fore. Using a cafetiere seemed to soften it ever so slightly but its character remained the same. Vittorio, named after Ferrari’s founder, is an altogether different approach. It’s much more mellow and laid back, with delicious chocolatey sweet, almost fruity, notes. This doesn’t mean it’s a weak blend – far from it, it’s a lovely rich coffee that’s perfect for a lazy day or post evening meal. Bold or gentle, Ferraris have got it absolutely spot on. ferrariscoffee.co.uk

On The Rocks Pembrokeshire Popty Bakery Shortbread Yet another long established, family-owned business, Popty Bakery have been in the same premises, and in the one family for over 100 years. Based in Llanllechid in Snowdonia, they’re renowned far and wide for their Welsh cakes and Bara Brith fruit cakes and loaves – the likes of which, you’ll struggle to find better. A shoe in to build on this success is the recent addition of Traditional Shortbread biscuits to the range.

Does the idea of a bar-standard cocktail, that can be enjoyed anytime-anywhere, seem too good to be true? Think again. Mixologists at On the Rocks Pembrokeshire are handcrafting a range of exciting cocktails, to be served straight from the bottle.

Golden, lightly dusted with fine sugar and elegant in their simple roundness, they’re a wonderful example of what a classic Shortbread should look like. But the exemplary nature of Popty’s Shortbread doesn’t stop there. When you bite into them, there’s a wonderful crunch, that quickly evolves into a melt in the mouth, buttery exquisiteness. For even more melt in the mouth goodness, a dunk in a cuppa works even better. Who knew Short Bread biscuits could taste this good?

Meticulously created using premium Welsh spirits, expertly combined with a range of quality ingredients, OTRP deliver classic cocktails, exuding all the complexity you would expect from your favourite cocktail bar, but in the convenience of a bottle. We sampled the Strawberry Daiquiri, fragrant strawberry gorgeousness, cut through with citrus notes and a warming kick of rum; the Espresso Martini, a powerful blast of smoothly balanced Arabica coffee and vodka, with deep, dark caramel undertones; and finally, after cleansing the palate with an obligatory prosecco, the Porn-star Martini, a crisp vodka martini, with passionfruit that is beautifully sweet and yet wonderfully tart. And all to be enjoyed wherever your adventures take you.

popty.co.uk

ontherocks-pembrokeshire.com

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Food and Drink

Crwst - Goji and raspberry Granola

Pembrokeshire Gold Rapeseed Oil

It’s difficult not to become overly zealous about Cardigan-based Crwst. By staying close to their values and using only top-quality ingredients, Crwst manage to pull off that triple whammy; create wholesome products, that are crafted and supplied responsibly, but which sing of luxury.

Pembrokeshire Gold Rapeseed Oil is not just a culinary delight, but also a testament to Wales’s family farming heritage. Sourced from the lush fields of Pembrokeshire, the extra-virgin oil is cold pressed to preserve its natural richness. Produced in small batches

by Harry and Kim Thomas, it embodies a tradition of care and quality, passed down through generations.

From seed to bottle, every step is meticulously managed, ensuring a product that’s not only delicious but is sustainable and bursting with wholesome goodness.

Their hand-made Goji and Raspberry Granola is no exception. Created with health in mind (goji berries are stuffed full of immune-boosting antioxidants, while nuts and seeds provide protein, fibre and all sorts of essential nutrients), taste and texture are still beautifully balanced in every mouthful. The crunchy oats, seeds and nuts deliver a gently dark and caramelised sweetness that is paired deliciously with a sharper tanginess from the berries. We enjoyed the granola first with milk and then partnered with a cool kefir, treating ourselves to a dish that was bangingly healthy and way too delicious to save just for breakfast. crwst.cymru

Cygnet – Hand-crafted Welsh Dry Gin Unlike certain celebs who simply put their name to new products, Katherine Jenkins, celebrated mezzosoprano is the real deal. Involved from start to finish in the creative process, Katherine has created something really special. Katherine, who hails from Neath, in the heart of Wales’s waterfall country, and her hand-picked team have combined pure Welsh water with a blend of carefully chosen local botanicals to create Cygnet, a delightful and sumptuous premium gin.

Tasted on its own, we enjoyed Cygnet’s juniperforward nature and the uplifting herbal tones of thyme and chamomile. It is certainly smooth enough to be simply sipped and appreciated, as is. However, when combined with a quality sparkling tonic, it became vivacious, releasing the full breadth of its flavours of orange and coriander. Light, refined, crisp and gently bitter, we had a flawless G&T, which was complex, vibrant and refreshing. Presented in a beautifully sophisticated, repurposable, bottle, there is also a simple elegance to Cygnet. Which is not surprising – it’s exactly what one would expect from Katherine Jenkins. cygnet-distillery.com

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We sampled the original and the garlic-infused oils, both beautifully amber in colour. We went all out, frying and baking, creating dressings, drizzling on pizza and greedily dipping sourdough into the glistening sumptuousness. The plain oil was light and mild with a delicate and gentle nuttiness, while its garlic-infused partner had a brilliant, knock-out robustness. Both delicious and both totally moreish.

Bottled Pembrokeshire sunshine! pembrokeshiregold.co.uk

Good For You Ferments We now know just how vital our gut microbiome is and that its trillions of microorganisms thrive on probiotics found in fermented foods. Enter, Good For You Ferments, a small company from the beautiful Gower peninsular, committed to crafting fermented foods that are not simply good for our guts, but which taste good to boot! Looking at a way to use up a glut of home-grown veg, GFY founders, Aoife and Jon realised they could create crunchy sauerkrauts and kimchi that deliver probiotic magic.

We loved the sharp, tangy freshness of their Classic Sauerkraut, with its herby cocktail of dill and caraway and delighted at the crunchy gingeriness of the Sea Green. Feeling out of our normal comfort zone we braved the Celtic Kymchi and immediately loved it. Bursting with chilli, garlic and ginger, it packs a zinging punch. Never has keeping healthy tasted so good! goodforyouferments.co.uk

Food and Drink

Brecon Carreg Tonic Waters Brecon Carreg are an iconic Welsh producer that started as a farm diversification scheme in 1978, in the shadow of Carreg Cennan Castle at the western end of the Brecon Beacons and are now independent and Welsh-owned again after a recent management buyout. At the heart of Brecon Carreg’s success is the stunning crystal, mineral rich water of the Beacons. Beginning life as rain falling on the hills and valleys, it takes an incredible 15 years to filter through solid layers of limestone rock before finally making its way to the surface at the foot of Carreg Cennan. And it doesn’t take much of a leap to figure out that water that’s this good, will make a great tonic water.

Brecon Carreg have wisely decided not to adulterate such pure water. This means its quality still shines through and the spirit isn’t overwhelmed by overly flavoured tonic. A good tonic should serve to accentuate the spirit, not the other way round, and this is precisely what this classic tonic does. On its own, it’s lovely being crisp and refreshing, with a gentle quinine bitterness counterbalanced by subtle sweetness complete with oodles of bubbles to create a sensuous mouthfeel. We then tried it with an array of gins and every time, whether a juniper forward London Dry or a premium, nuanced artisan it let the gin breathe, enhancing the experience The low-calorie version was just as good and bubbly, and totally free of the aftertaste you sometimes get from tonics made using artificial sweeteners. The Pink Grapefruit tonic was as sharp and zesty as one would hope for – not as acidic as lemon nor as sweet as orange but perfect to bring out the best in a juniper forward gin, to add depth to a lighter gin or on its own. With more launches ahead the future looks full of promise for Brecon Carreg. breconwater.co.uk

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Soup Myfanwy Alexander Soup is the foodstuff of comedy. From the once ubiquitous ‘Waiter, there’s a fly’ jokes, via the Marx Brothers to the Julie Walters classic sketch, nothing else has generated so much innocent enjoyment.

More recently, Scottish comic Tommy Reilly thought it was about time Platonic diaeresis got right into our bowls when he asked the question, ‘What makes Soup, Soup?’ And in this ‘not quite spring but definitely too late for marzipan’ season of the year, Reilly’s question is very pertinent as we are all in need of rib-sticking food which delivers warmth into every cell of the body while conscious that the season of excess is past.

It starts with the stock, of course. The world is divided between us bone-boilers and the rest: one of the many culinary lessons my girls learnt at Uni was that having the remains of a chicken bubbling away for hours on a Rayburn was not clear evidence of being a witch but rather a commitment to real flavour. We boilers should, however, know our limits: I recently rather cheekily lifted the lid of a stock pot at the house of a friend who is an excellent cook to find not the expected broth of beef bones but a scummy miasma containing the recognizable muzzle of a stoat which was being prepared for taxidermy by the teenage son.

It is often said that you can make soup out of anything, but I disagree: stoat soup would be a bridge, or maybe a rib too far.

I was in New England recently where I was generally pretty underwhelmed by everything but the seafood and I was lucky enough to have a remarkable bowl of chowder. I pride myself on making a mean chowder, but this took things to a different level. The fish was

perfectly cooked, retaining a toothsome texture, the liquor was well-balanced, and the potatoes gave an earthy gravity to the whole. But the game changer was the sweetcorn. It’s a little- respected ingredient, and to be frank, it mostly deserves its poor reputation, with wobbly yellow kernels being tipped at random from cans into uninspiring supper dishes where they singularly fail to have any impact. (Admit it to yourself, you too have looked at a pasta dish knowing it needs a lift and reached for the Jolly Green answer, which wasn’t a game changer.) But sweetcorn is needed in chowder, and I have now learnt the value of carefully grilling baby corn (not the tiniest ones, which usually taste of nothing) to create a smoky depth which takes chowder out of the nursery and onto the dining table.

It’s worth telling your local farm shop that you’re in the market for baby corn which isn’t ‘almost invisible to the native eye’ corn later in the year; they’re certain to have some slightly sturdier specimens available. And chowder is only one of the classic fish soups, Cullen skink (the crossword setter’s choice), bouillabaisse and caldeirada, though many would argue the latter is a stew rather than a soup, hence Tommy Reilly’s question.

Soup is also a useful way of restoring a body which spent an unseemly number of days living on Turkish delight and various cream liqueurs: I’m finding it very hard to kick my Merlyn habit. For this type of regimen, vegetables take centre stage and if a part of you dies at the prospect of such dull fare, remember the ‘and’ factor. Carrot soup is hearty of course but can be taken up a level with caraway seeds, available in person or by post from legendary Cardiff deli Wallys.

Parsnip and apple get a lot punchier by the addition of a swirl of local cider: make sure you get enough if you go for Seidr Pisgah because it won’t be just the opened bottle which seems to vanish deceptively quickly. And then there is celeriac, the smell of which brings an enchantment to a kitchen on a gloomy day: go into your cupboard and retrieve any leftover nuts from Christmas, taste and sprinkle over your celeriac.

I survived my student days on potato soup because it is so cheap and filling; it’s an almost blank canvass waiting for flavour sensations. Maggie’s African Twist recipes inspire authentic dishes, but her complex and fresh blends of seasoning can just boost your everyday cooking to new levels.

So, get that stockpot bubbling and as you are chopping your veg, ponder this eternal question: what makes soup soup and where does that leave gravy?

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