Bangkok 101 Magazine January/February 2019 by Talisman Media

N NE EW W Y YE EA AR R ’S ’S E EV VE E Adventures in Food

A community of like-minded nomads, united in the pursuit of food; from chefs and restaurants to street food, culinary events and international forums. andF discover aO new P R O T R O OCome O F T O culinary universe with us. P C B R A T II O C E S E L L E E Bwebsite R for Afuture T events. O N N S See the

T VA T II C CK KE ET TS S A AV A II L LA AB BL LE E

B O O K E A R LY TO AVO I D D I S A P P O I N T M E N T B O O K E A R LY TO AVO I D D I S A P P O I N T M E N T P L E A S E CO N TAC T O U R D I N I N G R E S E RVAT I O N S P L E A S E CO N TAC T O U R D I N I N G R E S E RVAT I O N S

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Publisher’s Letter

appy New Year and welcome to the first issue of 2019. We start the New Year just as we left the old one, with an issue packed full of fun and informative content, collecting the very best of what is happening around the city, then wrapping it all up in a beautiful little bundle and dropping it on your lap—ta-da! This issue has a theme of “Bangkok That Was” to coincide with the exhibition of the same name at Serindia Gallery (until January 13th). You’ll see one of the wonderful photographs from the exhibition—by Fabrizio La Torre—on the front cover. We have also interviewed the founder and owner of Serindia Gallery (pg. 30), as well as spoken to locals to find out about their memories and stories of old Bangkok (pg. 62). And, turn to page 69 for a special Photo Feature with a selection of photos from the “Bangkok That Was” exhibition. You’ll also discover, in this issue, features looking at New Year’s resolutions, fitness and gym guides, Bangkok’s secret workout spots, and we take a look at the burgeoning comedy scene in Bangkok (pg. 26). Of course, we have our regular columnists in Snapshots (pg. 30), Very Thai (pg.36), and we head on up north to Nakhon Phanom for our monthly travel section (pg. 38). Food & Drink continues to be a busy section with our exciting columnists, restaurant reviews, and in-depth city listings. A ll o f this and more— including our 101 archive and extras—can be found online at Enjoy. www.bangkok101.com. A couple of clicks are all it takes to keep in touch with what’s happening in Bangkok and beyond. And, Mason Florence if you as a reader feel there’s Publisher something we’re not covering, but should be, please drop us a line at info@talisman.asia.

What is Bangkok 101 Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.

B A N G K O K 101 P A R T N E R S

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JAN/ FEB 2019 | 5

CONTENTS CITY PULSE 8

Metro Beat Find out what’s going on this month in Bangkok

My Bangkok An interview with Mike Bridge, Big Mango Productions

12 New Year, New You Tips on how to make and keep your New Year’s resolutions 14

City Gym Guide Your guide to some of Bangkok’s best gyms, fitness centres, and membership rates

18 City Workouts Bangkok’s best secret training and workout spots 22

Kidding Around Fun programmes for kids that promote healthy bodies and healthy minds

26 Comedy Camaraderie Examining the rise of the Bangkok comedy scene

SNAPSHOTS 30 Now New Next An interview with Shane Suvikapakornkul 32

Joe’s Bangkok A walk around Wat Pak Nam

34 Heritage The Commons: not just another mall 36

Very Thai Monk Baskets, part 1

TRAVEL 38

Nakhon Phanom 101

What To See & What To Do Tips and recommendations

44 The Food of Nakhon Phanom Looking at the history and influences of cuisine in this north-eastern corner of Thailand 49

Ho Chi Minh Attractions A look at the three Ho Chi Minha connections in Nakhon Phanom

Golf in Nakhon Phanom The growing sport of golf in Thailand is on the rise

ART & CULTURE 52

Art Exhibitions Latest gallery openings and exhibitions from across the city

BACC... To the Future An interview with Pawit Mahasarinand, Director of The Bangkok Art and Culture Centre

58 Hugh Maynard An interview with leading man of the stage, Hugh Maynard, London’s West End Men 60

Museum Spotlight Bangkok Art Biennale: the clock is ticking to get out there and explore

Bangkok 101 is available at: 6 | JAN/ FEB 2019

bangkok101.com

CONTENTS 62

Memory Lane To mark the “Bangkok That Was: Photographs 1956-1961” exhibition, we asked Bangkok residents for their memories and secret spots in old Bangkok

Photo Feature “Bangkok That Was: Photographs 1956-1961” by Fabrizio La Torre

102

FOOD & DRINK 78 AROY Food & drink news and updates from across the city 80

Kitchen Backstories Consider bergamot

Chew On This A Moveable Feast

Eat Like Nym Ma Rad Na Yod Pak: A gem of a noodle restaurant in the Ratchawat market of Bangkok

Bitchin’ in the Kitchen Virtual Realities

Food & Drink Listings Capsule reviews of select restaurants in Bangkok

NIGHTLIFE

84 Restaurant Reviews Gaja Korean Gastrobar, Le Du, Embassy Room, Kim Leng, Front Room 92

Breaking Bread with Chef Chumpol Jangprai, R.HAAN

100 Nightlife Updates 102 Review Blue Parrot 103 Nightlife Listings Capsule reviews of selected bars and music venues in Bangkok

SIGNING OFF 108 Did You Know? A coconuts and Muay Thai connection

ART DIRECTOR

GENERAL MANAGER

Narong Srisaiya

Jhone El’Mamuwaldi

GRAPHIC DESIGNER

SALES MANAGER

Thanakrit Skulchartchai

Ornuma Promsrikaew

PUBLISHER

STRATEGISTS

DISTRIBUTION & MARKETING

Mason Florence

Sebastien Berger Nathinee Chen

COORDINATOR

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHER

EVENT & SPECIAL PROJECTS

Tipparnee Prajakwit

Fabrizio La Torre, John Goss

Wasin Banjerdtanakul

MANAGING EDITOR

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

David J. Constable

Luc Citrinot, Samantha Proyrungtong, Korakot (Nym) Punlopruksa, Zazithorn Ruengchinda,Tom Vitayakul, Philip Cornwel-Smith, Rosalind Yunibandhu, Memy Chia

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Dr Jesda M. Tivayanond

Pichet Ruengjit

EVENT COORDINATOR

EDITOR-AT-LARGE

Joe Cummings EDITORIAL ASSISTANT

Sithasa Kanchanavijaya

Panisara Bunnag

PUBLISHED BY

Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 54 Naradhivas Rajanagarinda Soi 4, Sathorn Tai Rd, Yannawa, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120 Tel: 02 286 7821 Fax: 02 286 7829 info@talisman.asia © Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2019. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.

CITY PULSE | metro beat

MUSIC January 10

HEALTH & SPA

Iconic guitarist Slash will be performing at GMM Live House Bangkok this month. The American musician is the lead guitarist for legendary band Guns N’ Roses, as well as indie rock bands Velvet Revolver, Slash’s Snakepit, and most recently Slash ft. Myles Kennedy and The Conspirators, a project with Alter Bridge’s vocalist and other members Brent Fitz, Todd Kerns and Frank Sidoris. The band makes its Bangkok debut on Thursday 10th, performing songs from their latest album Living The Dream. Tickets prices start from B1,800. www.thaiticketmajor.com/concert/ slash-ft-myles-kennedy-live-in-bkk-2019-en.html

January 13

Until January 15

BodyConscious is offering special packages to welcome the Year of the Pig. The first truly 360-degree holistic centre in Thailand is offering a pre-sale of its special packages to help those who have fallen by the wayside to get back on track. For those who really overindulged, there is a special 3-month package, which combines key signature programmes, namely, “Cleanse Me”, “Shrink Me” and “Tone Me”. www.bodyconsciousbkk.com

DANCE January 15,17 & 19

The Hop Bangkok Dance Studio offers Swing Dance workshops for anyone interested to learn the popular dance style from the 1930s era. Beginner classes include Lindy Hop, Balboa, Jazz Step, Charleston and Blues. Classes are 1 hr per week for 6 weeks, every Tue and Thu. Sat classes are 1.5 hrs and 5 weeks long. Prices are B2,400 if you register online before 12 January or B2,600 after. For more information, visit www.thehopbangkok.com 8 | JAN/ FEB 2019

Superorganism are a transatlantic group, featuring the New England based, Japanese vocalist Orono, and a sprawling line-up of international musicians and pop-culture junkies who currently live all under the same roof in London’s East End. The band first introduced themselves at the start of 2017 with the idiosyncratic, technicolour pop of Something For Your M.I.N.D. The track burned brightly causing a huge stir online and across the airwaves (including plays by bothFrank Ocean and Ezra Koenig on their radio shows) shortly afterwards, It’s All Good and Nobody Cares appeared, both intoxicating curveballs and undeniably worthy follow up to their fizzing debut. Tickets: B1,290. www.ticketmelon.com/live/superorganism

February 24

The Mangosteen Music Festival is going to be Kodaline’s first live gig in Bangkok on February 22, 2019 at Hall 106 Bitec Bangna. Their top chart songs include All I Want, High Hopes and Love Like This from their 2013 debut album In a Perfect World and The One and Honest from their second album, 2015’s Coming Up for Air. Brother and Follow Your Fire are hits from the latest album, Politics of Living, which was released in 2018. Tickets are B2,800. www.ticketmelon.com/mangosteenfest bangkok101.com

metro beat | CITY PULSE

FOOD & DRINK

FAMILY

January 4

Enjoy a blowout cheesefest at SO Sofitel with their “For the Love of Cheese” event at MIXO Bar, every first Friday of the month from 7pm-9pm. Enjoy two full hours of free-flow wine with 30 types of cheese nibbles ranging from Comté to Brillat-Savarin and Raclette alongside artisan breads, cold cuts, charcuterie, trimmings, plus live DJ with Saxophonist. Price: B850 net per person (Cheese only), or top up another B350 net to enjoy free flow wine. For more information, contact: 02 624 0000 or: h6835@sofitel.com

Until January 31

Cool nights and gin cocktails are the perfect combination, especially when it’s the bartender’s choice of Tanqueray! As the city lights dance on the horizon, enjoy one of The St. Regis Bar’s six unique Tanqueray Gin creations; from citrus or sour, to sweet, tangy or dry. Entry to the Gin Garden is free and cocktails are priced at B365++ per glass. www.stregis.com/bangkok

VALENTINE’S February 24

Love is in the air at The Okura Prestige Bangkok’s Michelin-starred restaurant Elements this Valentine’s Day with a fantastic 6-course romantic candlelit dinner featuring special dishes for him and her. The intimate feast begins with a glass of Champagne and a selection of aperitif bites followed by courses such as hamachi or Japanese amberjack with dashi, ponzu and shiso leaf; an organic garden salad with lobster and daidai vinegar; and a dish of langoustine with Kurobuta pork belly. Dining delights conclude with a dessert of Japanese Musk Melon, almond and Tahitian vanilla ice cream, plus coffee or tea and a selection from the petits fours trolley. The Valentine’s Day Dinner is served at Elements Restaurant on 14 February 2019, 6pm-10:30pm priced at B4,900++ per person, including a glass of Champagne. www.okurabangkok.com bangkok101.com

January 12

On National Children’s Day, the second Saturday of January every year (January 12th), Thailand dedicates a day to the future of their country by hosting a day celebrating children, and thanking them by offering discounts and hosting special activities. Both the MRT and BTS will be free for children under 140 cm tall, the Museum of Siam will also be open to all for free, and the Government House opens its doors allowing children the opportunity to have their picture taken in the Prime Minister’s office. Most shopping malls in the city will also have free rides and activities for children. www.bangkok.com/eventscalendar.htm?cid=ch:OTH:001

SPORT January 6

The Wacoal Motion Run is an annual charity fun run created by the National Cancer Institute, covering 5 km, half-marathon (21.1 km), and a mini run (10.55 km). It doesn’t matter if you walk or run, as long as you participate. The objective of the event is to promote the exercise of people in the country and to work towards the prevention of many diseases, especially cancer. Participation costs start at B400 per person. Event t-shirts and medals will be available for those who complete the course. www.ticketmelon.com/wacoal/ wacoal-motion-run-race3-khonkaen JAN/ FEB 2019 | 9

CITY PULSE | my bkk

Michael Bridge A British musical theatre producer, now living in Thailand, has plans to serenade Bangkok with London West End classics. Tell us about yourself. I was born in England and lived most of my early life in London during the swinging ‘60’s and ‘70’s, an amazing era for fashion and music. Actually, I saw The Beatles live twice! My father was a successful theatre producer in the West End and on Broadway so my childhood was a mixture of premiere nights and celebrity parties. 10 | JAN/ FEB 2019

What’s your background and when did you start getting involved in musical theatre? After school I went to work in TV as an assistant floor manager at Thames TV, where we made The Benny Hill Show. Then I started a successful fashion company with my brother called Bridgebags. Later, I ran London fashion exhibitions before changing to worldwide property shows.

Who have been your biggest influences? Mary Quant, the British fashion designer, and Terence Donavon, the fashion photographer. Terence actually worked for my father. What is your all-time favourite musical play? I was lucky and I got to see many first nights as I was an investor in several bangkok101.com

my bkk | CITY PULSE

London’s West End Men

British Ambassador with Mike Bridge

big musicals. Miss Saigon was very exciting, so was Star Light Express, however, I appreciated the privilege of seeing the very first private preview of Phantom of the Opera— my middle brother Andy Bridge is the show’s lighting designer—and I have very fond memories of this, it was like watching history unfolding. Tell us more about Big Mango Productions. Along with Mike Cordwell, we felt there was a lack of theatrical entertainment coming to Bangkok and Thailand. So, we decided to set up Big Mango Productions with the British Embassy supporting our first concert this month, by the London’s West End Men. What can the audience expect from the upcoming show? bangkok101.com

Harriet Jones

West End and Broadway musicals have some exceptionally talented leading men who command the stage every night. We have been extremely lucky to find that three of the top actors were available to fly over to Bangkok. For instance, Daniel Koek played Jean Valjean for two-years in the London production of Les Misérables, Hugh Maynard was in the original cast of Miss Saigon, returning a few years ago to play the same part in the award-winning London revival. And Oliver Tompsett played the lead in Wicked and is currently starring in American hit musical, Kinky Boots. Joining the men at the Thailand Cultural Centre will be our special guest Miss Harriet Jones, who captivated West End audiences for three-years playing the role of Christine in Phantom of the Opera.

Normally the orchestras in the theatres are hidden in the pit and number less than 15 musicians total. We have booked 45 talented musicians from the Royal Bangkok Symphony Orchestra to support the cast on stage. The two hour concert will include songs from Les Miserables, Miss Saigon, Chess, Phantom of the Opera, West Side Story, Wicked and The Lion King. With sound, lighting and special effects, it should be a night to remember. What is your next musical event and when is it planned for? We plan to take this concert— London’s West End Men—to other Asian cities. Tickets from www.thaiticketmajor. com or Tel: 02 262 3456 interview by Zazi Ruengchinda JAN/ FEB 2019 | 11

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

New Year, NEW YOU

Pick the Right Resolution You’ll give yourself your best shot at success if you set a goal that’s doable— and meaningful too.

munity it Find a Com e d to d o e n ’t n o You d al ly if yo u r ci e sp al o n e , e a rt s in th e st re so lu ti o n hen you’ll have New Year wmpany in trying plenty of co e change. You to make a lifsarily need to don’t necesl group, but you find a specia

12 | JAN/ FEB 2019

Make (and keep) New Year’s Resolutions.

id you know that more than half of all resolutions fail? That doesn’t mean that you have to. In fact, identifying the right resolution can improve your life. Here’s how to reach it—or them, if you’re planning on more than one—and become part of the small group of people that successfully achieve their goal(s).

should let a person or two kno w tha t you ’re set ting a goa l. You can also use social media to make your goal public, like posting on Facebook that you will run a 10k by March, along with updates of your progress.

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best of bkk | CITY PULSE

Create Your Pl Your end goal w an magically appearon’t just out how to get . Figure you’re trying to there. If break a habit, breaform or that habit into k down parts: a cue, a ro its three utine and a reward.

Leap Over Resolution Hurdles r No one’s perfect, and youn quest for your resolutio won’t be either. But you So can get back on track. r before hurdles get in youe way, make sure you hav a plan to jump over them.

bangkok101.com

al If You Miss Your Go r own You didn’t fail. You’re you at to experiment, so here’s wh or 20th try on your second, third ost: em for and st attempt. Fir tion If you fail at your resolurself you at be n’t do pt, em att alone. up, and know you’re not rself Remember to be kind to youesn’t and that a resolution do rs. need to be tied to New Yea

JAN/ FEB 2019 | 13

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

City Gym

GUIDE Your guide to some of Bangkok’s best gyms, fitness centres and membership rates.

hat better time to join a gym than the beginning of the year. With the Christmas and New Year’s Eve celebrations now firmly behind you, it’s time to jump up off the sofa, loosen those limbs and get out there. Whether you’re looking for Muay Thai, CrossFit, Body Pump or just a regular treadmill, Bangkok has a whole wealth of fitness options with something to suit every need. Here’s a run through of some of the best city options for gyms, as well as a useful guide to membership rates and drop-in details.

14 | JAN/ FEB 2019

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best of bkk | CITY PULSE

VIRGIN ACTIVE

WE FITNESS

Virgin Active aims to enrich peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lives through Activeness, with the right encouragement and the setting of realistic goals. Facilities include spas, steam rooms, experiential showers, large spacious workout areas and heaps of the latest equipment. All members get a free one-on-one session with a trainer when they start, plus the option of free catch-up sessions to stay on track.

We Fitness thrives to be the drive for members who love exercise and building firm bodies and characters by supporting them to reach their goals with various programmes, classes, and equipment. Special exercises will allow them to have fun as well as break a sweat while having personal trainers guide them towards efficient results. Newbies can make the most of a three-day free trial.

Membership: Various packages on offer. Expect to pay around B2,900/month for a one-year contract or B3,300/month for six months.

Membership: The basic We Society membership starts from B2,100/month, allowing you to use one of the five clubs available. We Signature Exclusive is B3,000/month in which you can visit all clubs; both packages are for one-year contracts only.

www.virginactive.co.th | Tel: 02 770 9772

FITNESS FIRST Fitness First has seen a lot of changes in the fitness industry over the years, but their philosophy has remained the same: to offer the best equipment, range of classes, knowledgeable staff and personal advice in a welcoming environment that feeds their membersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; motivation. First timers can join for 3 days with over 23,000 classes per month at all 31 branches, free of joining fees and admin charges. Membership: The regular club and platinum club cost roughly B2,000-3,000/month for a five-month to one-year contract. www.fitnessfirst.co.th | Tel: 02 118 6600

www.wefitnesssociety.com | Tel: 02 2798 3939

FITFAC MUAY THAI ACADEMY Fitfac Muay Thai Academy is the first in Thailand to incorporate sports science into Thai boxing. They have the most instructors in the world, more than 120, who are or were real boxers and highly experienced in national and international championships. The trainers who studied sports science also help to educate members in healthy diets for weight loss. Membership: B2,890/month (four-month contract), B2,490/month (six-month contact), or B2,290/ month (10-month contract). www.fitfacmuaythai.com | Tel: 095 995 7718

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CITY PULSE | best of bkk

16 | JAN/ FEB 2019

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best of bkk | CITY PULSE

ABSOLUTE YOU Absolute You is so far the biggest yoga studio in Bangkok, with 12 branches plus 2 in Phuket. Now that it has rebranded from Absolute Yoga to Absolute You, it has expanded to Pilates and spinning, too. Their mission is to create a fun, supportive environment that challenges students to change their mind and body through exercise. Membership: B2,500 for 10 classes yoga/one month, B4,500 for 10 classes Pilates/ one month, and B6,500 for 10 classes rhythmic cycling/one month. www.absoluteyou.com | Tel: 02 252 4400

OMMO STUDIOS OMMO Studios, as Bangkok’s newest and hippest boutique fitness studio, has the motto of “Music drives. Music moves. Music inspires.” They have taken music and used it to curate workouts that will motivate and push members out of their comfort zones while strengthening them physically and mentally. New sign-ups can join free trial classes, valid for two weeks (Thais and residents only). Membership: B950 for unlimited one-week (Thais and residents only), and other promotions start from B650 for one class pass, valid for two weeks. www.ommostudios.com | Tel: 02 286 8307

MASTER TODDY’S MUAY THAI Master Toddy is the only Great Grand Master to receive Ranking Diploma from King Rama IV, with over 50 years of experience and trained over 50 world champions in MMA, Muay Thai, and Boxing. It is also a certified academy by the Ministry of Education and Muay Thai International Association. Membership: A range of courses includes Instructor Training, Private Class, and courses for specific body parts. Most walk-ins begin with a two-hour private class (B2,000) and receive a fundamental certificate afterwards. www.mastertoddy.com | Tel: 02 743 3372

EXTRA SPECIAL THE ROYAL BANGKOK SPORTS CLUB

The Royal Bangkok Sports Club is an exclusive sports club in Bangkok, best known to the public for its horse racing venue. It was also the first racecourse in the country and one of the oldest golf courses. Originally serving Western expatriates and Thai aristocrats, the club has since maintained its exclusivity, and has a reputation as a domain of high society. Membership: New members are required to pay an entrance fee, reportedly up to B2 million ($65,000). Children of current members are automatically entitled to membership once they turn 20 years old. Note that the number of members is limited. www.rbsc.org | Tel: 02 652 5000

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CITY PULSE | best of bkk

18 | JAN/ FEB 2019

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best of bkk | CITY PULSE

CITY workouts

Bangkok’s best secret training and workout spots.

he perpetually tropical weather of Bangkok, and the curious urban planning (or lack of), can make exercising outside a challenge. Add in motorbike taxis, mobile vendors, and the fluid and often poetic brand of chaos that shapes the very infrastructure of city society, and it’s enough to make you want to stay inside—or at least, find a well-equipped air-conditioned gym. Consider this though; Bangkok has numerous green spaces and safe pathways for both runners and cyclists. While gyms offer relief from the elements, they come with hefty price tags, not to mention classes are often limited, or come at additional costs. And, even though most condos have pools, they’re usually little more than glorified bathtubs. Bangkok, as ever, has a yin to balance this yang. There are some pretty cool places to sweat it out in the city—you just have to know where to look. So step away from the treadmill, cast your gym pass aside, and check out these unique places and ways to work out. INDOOR CLIMBING Rock climbing may not be the first activity that comes to mind when thinking of ways to stay active in Bangkok, but there are a handful of great indoor facilities within the city limits, including one offering a brand-new experience. Urban Playground is one of the most accessible (located at the Racquet Club in Phrom Phong), and has a full range of climbing options, catering to first-timers and fitness freaks alike. The centre boasts a hard-to-fathom 10,000 handholds, which in laymen’s terms means the staff can set a bunch of different climbing routes from week to week. On any given day, you can climb more than 70 unique routes, and 40 bouldering problems. While Urban Playground arguably offers the best climbing facilities in Bangkok, it isn’t the only world-class climbing experience in town. The first Clip ‘n Climb in Thailand has arrived at Bounce, the trampolining centres in EmQuartier and The Street Ratchada.

bangkok101.com

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CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Occupying the so-called “fun-climbing” sector of the industry, Clip ‘n Climb hails from New Zealand, where it has quickly become a popular all-ages activity. Even young kids, from the age of five on up, can safely climb the interactive walls, thanks to an auto-belay system that takes in slack as you climb and gently lowers you back to the ground. The centre has 24 brightly-coloured themed walls, each requiring different skills to conquer, so there’s a lot to explore. www.urbanplaygroundclimbing.com www.bounceinc.co.th SERVE, SET, SPIKE Beach volleyball and Bangkok may sound like an odd match, but, lo and behold, it exists. And the group behind it, the Bangkok Beach Volleyball Social Group, is quite healthy. “We started this group many years back, when the only court available was a sand court,” admits Sirikanya ‘Fia’ Supasavasdebhandu, one organiser of the group’s meet-ups, alongside her partner, Saran Phichitsingh. “There were other courts across the city. For example, at universities like Chulalongkorn or in public parks. But public courts had “regular” players, and if you weren’t a student, an alum, or a faculty, the only way to get on a university’s court was to be personally invited. The group arranges indoor matches nearly every day, including Tuesday night sand volleyball sessions at the Arsenal Soccer School (Sukhumvit Soi 71), and popular Sundays sessions with five-plus hours of game time not out of the ordinary. Beach (or sand) volleyball requires a different skillset than indoor volleyball. For starters, the court is smaller and teams normally feature just two players per side. But it’s also played outdoors, typically under floodlights. While Thai society has a well-documented passion for indoor volleyball, sand volleyball remains under-the-radar for locals in Bangkok. Fia, however, is seeing more interest among local crowds, too. She’s organised two volleyball tournaments so far, and a third tournament is in the works. Those interested in joining the tourney or joining the club can e-mail Fia at: s.sirikanya119@gmail.com, or check out: www.meetup.com/bkk-beach-volleyball. 20 | JAN/ FEB 2019

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best of bkk | CITY PULSE

ALL-IN-ONE STADIUMS Long-distance running and multi-sport events—such as triathlons and duathlons—are on the rise in Thailand. According to MV Vision, a sporting event organiser, there are more than 600 running events and 100 cycling or multi-sport events each year. Even if marathons and triathlons are surging in popularity, finding a good place to train for them in the big city can still be something akin to a nightmare. Road safety standards are more or less nonexistent, and foot traffic often becomes cheek-by-jowl in popular parks. Fortunately for our multi-sport friends, this metropolis has a couple of hidden gems. “It’s really convenient to train at the Sports Authority of Thailand (SAT),” says Ivan Vlasenko, an elite triathlete living in Bangkok, who regularly places on the podium at major events and is sponsored by Optima Bike and REVV Energy. “There’s a velodrome for cycling, a 50-metre pool for swimming, and a 400-metre track for running—all in one place.” Located on Ramkhamhaeng Road, a little further on from the university of the same name, the SAT is probably best known as the home to Rajamangala Stadium. But, as Vlasenko notes, it’s an athlete’s playground. Beyond the facilities mentioned above, the SAT has basketball and tennis courts, an archery centre, sports dormitories, and even a skate park. If Ramkhamhaeng is too far from home, try National Stadium. Right on the footsteps of the BTS, this downtown sporting complex features two 400-metre tracks, a 200-metre track, a nearly twokilometre cycling lane, and a 50-metre pool. The outdoor track, inside Thephasadin Stadium, a popular venue for football matches, is open to the public in the mornings and at night. bangkok101.com

The Wisutamol Pool, meanwhile, might not be the cleanest around, and most afternoons, when a deluge of children descend upon the water for swimming lessons, you can expect to split lanes. But it’s not very often your everyday athlete can paddle in a 50-metre pool alongside the most elite swimmers in Thailand, as you can here and at the Sports Authority of Thailand. A MOST INTERESTING PARK Visit the sprawling, shady, ostensibly peaceful park next to Wat Don any evening and you’re likely to find groups of men playing basketball, kids decked out in karategi on their way to karate class, and dozens of joggers tracing a 1.4 km loop on a concrete path. You’ll also spot some skateboarders, weightlifters, and elderly Thai-Chinese singing karaoke. Visible even from the park entrance are hundreds of tombs, elevated above ground, and an eerie reminder of the land’s actual purpose, as the park is an extension of the sizeable Teochew Cemetery. The running path here is one of the city’s most shaded, serene, and secluded, even though the park is only a couple hundred metres from busy Sathorn Road. Locals know the grounds as Pa Cha Wat Don—the graveyards of Wat Don. In 1900, the land was turned into a burial site for Chinese immigrants by the Teochew Association of Thailand. During the ironfisted rule of Field Marshal Sarit Thanarat in the late 1950s, the coup-maker used the cemetery as grounds for summary executions. However, in 1996, three local foundations—Poh Teck Tung, Tae Chew and Hai Nan Dan—gave it a makeover, renovating the grounds to incorporate a park. Now it comes to life every night, when schools let out and the work day is done, but the foot traffic never quite gets as pigsty-packed here as it does in Lumphini Park. Since burials are no longer allowed in the city limits, it’s pretty much full at this point, too, terrestrially speaking, so you don’t have to fear falling into a hole in the ground or running into some creepy gravedigger working overtime. JAN/ FEB 2019 | 21

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Kidding Around Fun programmes for kids that promote healthy bodies and healthy minds.

RHYTHMIC GYMNASTICS

Described as a blend of ballet, gymnastics, dance, and apparatus manipulation (club, hoop, ball, ribbon and rope), this sport has a little bit of everything and is about as close as you can get to structured goofing off. Universe Gymnastics, led by Russian

22 | JAN/ FEB 2019

pro Olga Balachina, started in Phuket but began Bangkok classes in 2016 (trial classes are just B300). Last year, they expanded the programme to include a toddler groups for kids three to six years. www.universegymnastics.com

bangkok101.com

Dhara Dhevi Chiang Mai

A beautiful oasis retreat, paying homage to the Lanna culture

Nestled across 60 acres of paddy fields and tropical landscapes, The Dhara Dhevi Chiang Mai is a stunning escape and a virtual kingdom in its own right. Laid out according to the plans of ancient Thai cities of the past, a series of moats, fortified walls, gateways, and thoroughfares provide the backdrop for an assortment of handcrafted buildings that draw inspiration from the architecture of the Greater Lanna region. Unique in concept and design and built on an unprecedented scale, the hotel opened in 2006, consisting of 123 villas and suites. The overall design and layout pays homage to Lanna’s rich melting pot of culture and showcases the beauty of its art, architecture, craftsmanship, and design traditions. This unrivalled design in such an exceptional setting makes The Dhara Dhevi Chiang Mai much more than a luxurious five-star property; it is a living museum born from a simple wish of the founder to preserve the beauty of Lanna culture and to create a space that nourishes the traditions and intangible charms of its people.

Located only 15 minutes drive from Chiang Mai International Airport, the hotel includes a 3,100 square metre Dheva Spa and Wellness Centre, an amphitheatre for cultural events, two swimming pools, seven restaurants and bars, a cooking school, a health club, library, Lanna Kids Club, craft village, grand ballroom and private meeting areas. There is also a traditional shopping village and a bakery and delicatessen with home-made cakes, sandwiches, and pastries available throughout the day. Rooms range from luxurious villas converted from authentic Northern Thai rice barns to Grand Deluxe two-storey villas. The Penthouses Residences and palatial Royal Residence, consisting of six private Lanna-style pavilions, take relaxing to a whole new level. These properties offer the ultimate in luxury and privacy; set on the edge of the compound’s own free-form lotus pond and surrounded by towering rain trees, fragrant frangipanis, and a wall of life-sized elephant sculptures drawn from Chiang Mai’s oldest temple, Wat Chiang Man.

51/4 Moo 1, Chiang Mai-Sankampaeng Road | Tel:(66) 53 888 888 | enquiry@dharadhevi.com

www.dharadhevi.com

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

24 | JAN/ FEB 2019

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best of bkk | CITY PULSE

MEDITATION

Health is more than just skin deep, and overall holistic wellness starts in the mind. Mindfulness for Children is based on the serene shores of Pranburi, in Prachuap Khiri Khan province, and organises group and private meditation classes for kids (ages 7-11) and teens (12 and up) to help cultivate awareness, calmness, and kindness. Check the website for prices and schedules. www.mindfulnessforchildren.org

BASKETBALL

Coax out your kids’ inner Michael Jordan or Kobe Bryant with classes for kids at Top Flight. Children aged 3-15 can attend the weekend workshops, with programmes aimed at understanding the game and enhancing fundamental basketball skills. Kids learn the value of teamwork and sportsmanship while having a “ball”. Saturday classes start from B6,000 for 10 sessions, and Sunday classes from B7,200 for 12 sessions. academy.topflightbangkok.com

PARKOUR

Walking the walk has never looked so cool. Parkour is a training discipline that turns everyday life into a fun-to-navigate obstacle course, and improves overall fitness using bodyweight resistance and running, climbing, swinging, vaulting, and rolling. Asia Parkour’s ‘Ninja Kids’ programme teaches children aged between 6 and 15 years old that jumping around is a sport that can rev up those motor skills. Prices for drop-in classes are just B550. www.asiaparkour.com

SUMMER CAMP

Outdoor play is key in nurturing a child’s individual strengths. Schools with environmental education programmes score higher on standardised tests in math, reading, writing, and listening, and it is good for the spirit too—stress levels fall within minutes of kids seeing green spaces. “Kids thrive in the great outdoors,” says Merritt Gurley, director of Thailand Summer Camps, a sleepaway adventure camp for kids aged between 7 and 16, set in the lush forests of Khao Yai. Noticing a lack of environmental education options for kids in Bangkok, Merritt teamed up with the experts at the Wild Planet—an activities provider who has worked with international schools on field trips and excursions for more than 20 years—to launch a summer camp at Wild Lodge, the organisation’s picturesque eco-adventure centre. The location is just a three-hour drive from Bangkok, but the lush setting feels worlds away from the bustle of the city. Camps run from Monday to Friday, offering activities centred on outdoor play, such as archery, cycling, rock-climbing, zip-lining, swimming, canoeing, and whitewater rafting. www.thailandsummercamps.com

bangkok101.com

JAN/ FEB 2019 | 25

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

COMEDY

Camaraderie

The continual rise of the local and international comedy scene in Bangkok is no laughing matter. Well, actually it is. It’s belly-busting fun. Words by Robin Westley Martin

n Bangkok, there is a great music scene. You’ll find excellent dining and spectacular cultural shows as well. We have grand temples, vibrant nightlife, and shopping opportunities abound. So what is missing from the mix? Ah, comedy! Well, no worries, because look in the right places and you’ll discover plenty of that too. The expat community in Bangkok is extensive and diverse, as are the audiences. At local comedy gigs, expect to be rubbing shoulders with people from all continents. Comedy is a universal thing, and a good belly-laugh makes us all feel that little bit better. It all began here about 15 years ago with comedy gigs at the Roadhouse, The Bull’s Head, and the Punchline Comedy Club in the Imperial Queen’s Park Hotel (now the Marriott Marquis). These founding venues offered a comedy night out to Bangkok’s night-owls that were looking for an alternative (or an addition) to the raunchy nightlife of the city. However, it was the open-mic nights at The Londoner, initiated by Chris Wegoda in 2012, that first

26 | JAN/ FEB 2019

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best of bkk | CITY PULSE

nurtured local talent, and was the foundation of what we see today. The comedy scene has naturally grown and matured since those seminal days and is continuing to do so, thanks to the clubs with their regular weekly gigs that showcase a fine bunch of toprated expat performers. Internationally recognised stars also drop in and the city has hosted the likes of Bill Bailey, Doug Stanhope, Eddie Izzard, and Jimmy Carr. These guys usually play in bigger venues, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the clubs that have about 80-90 seats, that offer a more intimate atmosphere, so you can have a chat at the bar with the performers during the interval, or after the show. Alcohol is part and parcel of a comedy night out, and after paying the admission fee, discounted drinks will often flow freely. In many cases, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the comedians themselves who run the comedy clubs, and their passion for the genre is easy to see. The best of the bunch is The Comedy Club, run by Chris Wegoda, The Stagetime Comedy Club, run by Matthew John, and the Khaosan Comedy Club, run by Jonathan Samson. There is also Raw Comedy at the Live Lounge, run by Max Rapkin and Charlie Banks, where comedians can hone their new material. Finally, and importantly, there is Magic Rock Pte, promoters and event organisers who mostly bring the bigger names to the city, and also put on the annually held Magners International Comedy Festival. Magic Rock is run by Managing Director, Matt Bennett, and Comedy Director and comedian, Aidan Killian. Performers are what makes comedy clubs tick and in Bangkok, they are an eclectic bunch indeed, with diversity in the name of the game. They come from all walks of life, guys and gals who have made their way to live and work in Bangkok, hailing from bangkok101.com

JAN/ FEB 2019 | 27

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Martin Mor and Chris Wegoda Bill Bailey

Doug Stanhope

Matthew John

places as far away as England, the USA, Ireland, Canada, South Africa, Australia, and France, as well as those from closer to home, such as Vietnam or Cambodia— and yes, Thailand as well. There are 15 to 20 regulars on the scene, and they are not stuck in one particular club, you can find them performing all over the city, and also at the occasional pop-up venue. They seem to be friends with each other too—no petty rivalries in Bangkok. Some of the performers let me know how they think the comedy scene here is continuing to grow, year by year: Brian Aylward (Best Stand up Canada 2016) from Newfoundland, Canada, based in Bangkok when not touring, said that “Bangkok is on the way to becoming the best place

28 | JAN/ FEB 2019

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best of bkk | CITY PULSE

for stand up in Asia.” There is no substitute for stage time here, and he has the opportunity to get just that. Jonathan Samson told me that the Khaosan Comedy Cub is the “only full-time comedy club in Asia; the international and local performers at Stagetime turn people into regulars pretty quickly.” And the big news for Chris Wegoda’s Comedy Club is that, apart from his weekly club nights, he has just partnered with BEC Tero, and will be bringing big names to The Scala theatre throughout 2019. The city will explode with laughter when Jim Jefferies, Jim Gaffigan, and Jimmy Carr hit town. Magic Rock’s big draws in the first quarter of 2019 include Shazia Mirza, Trevor Lock and Aidan Killian at the Westin, with the Magners International Comedy Festival again hitting the city in April. Tom Green is a must see in April too. So, join the crowd in Bangkok’s comedy club scene; you’ll be glad you did. You can check out all upcoming events on the following Facebook pages: Comedy Club Bangkok, Stagetime Comedy Club, Khaosan Comedy Club, Raw Comedy Open Mic (Live Lounge Bkk), Standup Asia (Magic Rock)

bangkok101.com

JAN/ FEB 2019 | 29

SNAPSHOTS | now new next

Shane Suvikapakornkul A young entrepreneur combining and conceptualising bookstores and publishing with art and design into a cultural enterprise.

hane Suvikapakornkul is a man with vision and mission. Through possibilities and opportunities, he has succeeded in merging books, art and design on antiquities into the cultural milieu of the modern millennia with Serindia Publications and Gallery, Hardcover Bookstores and Good Design Store. He recalls, “After graduating in Directing Marketing from Northwestern University, I met Jeffrey Moy, a Chinese-American antique dealer, who became my boss. He was a protégé of Avery Brundage, a wealthy Midwestern industrialist and a former President of International Olympic Committee (IOC) who collected Asian antiques among the likes of the Rockefellers. With Jeffrey’s help, Brundage culled from his huge collection and donated the best to the Asian Art Museum of San Francisco.” 30 | JAN/ FEB 2019

“Jeffrey just bought Paragon Book Gallery, ‘The Oriental Bookstore of America,’ from New York. It was established by a Jewish immigrant couple from Shanghai who eventually sold it to students from SOAS (School of Oriental and African Studies, London) when they retired. He got its name and mailing list but didn’t have the know-how. Through fate, I met him and started to work in 1992.” Shane explains, “At first Paragon Book was a mail-order book company. So I designed the database, typed in explanations of the books for catalogues, sourced, received the orders, packed and sent them. At work, I saw thousands of books as they came through. Later we had a store on lower Michigan Avenue.” Very fortunate, he met the crème de la crème of the Chinese art

and antiques world at the beginning of his career. He said, “On the first day, the Director of the Beijing Palace Museum came and we visited the Art Institute of Chicago, the Field Museum and others in the Midwest. The curators showed us Chinese antique collections of bronze, jade and porcelain from inside out. I was exposed to these masterpieces and learned about their quality and grades. In the mid-90s the second wave of the Asian art boom took place and I attended the Asian Art Fair in the Armory and auction houses in New York. So I gained good background knowledge from this.” On the Serindia Publications, Shane recounts, “I met Anthony Aris in 2003, Michael Aris’s (late husband of Aung San Suu Kyi) elder twin brother, a scholar of Tibetan studies and former publisher of bangkok101.com

now new next | SNAPSHOTS

Serindia, at Frankfurt Book Fair. He wanted to spend more time with his grandchildren so he sold me the company. I thought that after my first job, I understand the market, the clientele, and its process. I could build my own business too. So I was involved in publishing, distributing and retailing as well.” In 2006 Shane returned to Thailand and started Serindia Publications which originally sold books online. Books on Asian antiques, art and design are considered specialised and difficult to sell. However, he found a prime location for his next venture, an art gallery. He muses, “I visited an old house where Dr. Boonsong Lekagul, the late Thailand’s wildlife conservationist, practiced in the O.P. Garden project. I reserved the space immediately without knowing the rental fee. I like its neighbourhood context with different religious sites and decided to make the gallery eponymous to the publisher’s name.” Serindia Gallery was opened in 2009 and has shown a variety of art, design and book exhibitions with high quality and academic references. Shane enlightens, “What I want to emphasise is quality and education. These exhibits are

NOW NEW NEXT Join Bangkok-born but internationally bred aesthete Dr. Tom Vitayakul as he meets with creative minds and artistic souls from both Thailand and overseas. From traditional, to contemporary and avant-garde, he finds out about the visions, inspirations, and creations of these talented individuals. bangkok101.com

tools for connoisseurship. One can learn how to look, train one’s eyes, absorb the content, and evaluate without being taught directly.” In 2012 Shane took limitededition art books from Taschen and opened a pop-up at the Central World and the first Hardcover Bookstore in Bangkok Art and Cultural Centre (BACC). Its branch in Central Embassy had the Serindia Gallery Annex for satellite art exhibitions and the Good Design Store for cool products a few doors away. In 2017 it has flourished and was asked to join Open House by Central Embassy, Bangkok’s largest space for books and art lifestyle, with Central Group’s vision and collaboration. With views and natural light, the space was designed by the award-winning Klein Dytham architecture which created Daikanyama Tsutaya Books or T-Site in Tokyo. Shane describes, “I want to celebrate the paper and print culture that runs deeply in Asia and Europe. People still buy and

read books. Here they like books on history because of nostalgia and the rediscovery of vintage and retro styles. We co-operate with publishers and create launches to cultivate sophisticated market and good readership.” As one of Creative District Bangkok directors, Shane concludes, “I have combined all the businesses and turn them into a cultural enterprise. As an entrepreneur, everything I do is connected to the overall concept from publishing, distributing and retailing books to art gallery and design products store. Retails are time-consuming but the most satisfying job is publishing because I like to conceptualise and visualise it from materials, sizes, text, presentation, and details. What’s in print is permanent. So I have to make it the best I can. This enhances me intellectually. As a cultural enterprise, all the mechanics have to support the whole concept with its artistic and literary forms.” JAN/ FEB 2019 | 31

SNAPSHOTS | joe's bangkok

Wat Pak Nam

A Royal wat and the origin of the Dhammakaya Movement, Wat Pak Nam remains one of the most revered temples in the city. Photos by Joe Cummings

t the beginning of December 2018, I joined a small group of Thais and foreigners for a Sunday morning tour of Wat Paknam Phasicharoen. It was to be led by Pandit Bhikkhu, a British monk ordained in Thailand who has made Wat Paknam his home base for the past 22 years. Pandit Bhikkhu is the founder of Little Bangkok Sangha, known as Little Bang for short, a loose community of Bangkok residents interested in Buddhism. The group organises discussions and group meditation sessions led either by Pandit or, more often than not, by visiting dhamma teachers, including monastics and laypeople representing other Buddhist schools around Asia. Although I’m not an active member, I’ve attended a few Little 32 | JAN/ FEB 2019

Bang events and admire Pandit’s up-to-date approach to mouldy old Thai Buddhism, exemplified by such slogans as “Turn off your Facebook, and check your own status.” I’d long wanted to see Wat Paknam, one of the most powerful and influential monasteries in all of Thailand. Aside from Pandit, I knew one other temple resident, Scottish monk Phra Neil, a man in his 70s who I’d met in Chiang Mai a few years ago, and who is one of the senior-most western-born monks in Thailand. As it turned out, although I arrived at Wat Paknam on time, the rest of the group arrived 45 minutes later, having taken a detour for breakfast near the main temple gate. So I toured the monastery on my own, starting ahead of the group. I did manage a five-minute

conversation with Pandit, who sadly will be moving to Singapore soon, which will probably signal the end of Little Bang. An inscription near the main gate explained that Wat Paknam was founded during the Ayuthaya period but had since undergone four renovations. The first three came about during the reigns of King Taksin of the short-lived Thonburi kingdom, Rama III, and Rama V. In 1916, by which time the wat had fallen into disrepair again, Luang Pu Sodh Candasaro (1884–1959) took over as abbot. Famed for his proficiency in meditation, Luang Pu Sodh transformed Wat Paknam from a decaying monastery with only thirteen monks into a powerhouse of education and meditation practice with five hundred resident monks and almost as many mae bangkok101.com

joe's bangkok | SNAPSHOTS

chee (nuns) by the time he passed away in 1959. In 1970, one of Wat Paknam’s nuns, Mae Chee Chandra, left the temple to establish Pathum Thani’s Wat Phra Dhammakaya, famed for it’s flying saucer-like stupa and for its strong affiliation with deposed prime minister Thaksin Shinawatra and his followers after 2005. Luang Pu Sodh’s successor as abbot at Wat Paknam, Somdet Chuang Varapuñño, was slated to become Supreme Patriarch of Thai Buddhism in 2015 before Thailand’s military government blocked the nomination, presumably to weaken the Thaksin political wing. In 2012, Wat Paknam consecrated a new stupa called Phra Chedi Maharatchamongkhon, whose 12-sided shape was inspired by the 15th-century stupa at Wat Loka Moli in Chiang Mai. Standing 80 metres tall, the hollow stupa contains five floors. The ground floor features a museum filled with old typewriters and hardwired telephones, vintage furniture, portraits of Luang Pu Sodh, and endless shelves of books, Buddha images, and amulets. Most visitors ignore the museum and instead take a lift directly to the

fifth floor to view a vast glass stupa of intense emerald-green hue. Dominating the centre of the hall, the stupa-within-a-stupa is surrounded by crystal lotus sculptures and topped with four niches holding small Buddha images of solid gold. Four huge pillars, carved and gilded in the most rococo manner, support

the domed ceiling, which is adorned with murals of Buddha meditating beneath the mythic Bodhi tree surrounding a green cosmic sphere. Voices echo in the dome as visitors come and go, circumambulating the green stupa, kneeling at its base with murmured prayers, or just posing for cute selfies.

Joe’s Bangkok Award-winning writer Joe Cummings was born in New Orleans but became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide, as well as several other titles and updates for the region. Each month, he picks out his favourite cultural gems throughout Bangkok. bangkok101.com

JAN/ FEB 2019 | 33

SNAPSHOTS | heritage

THE COMMONS: a Mall out of the Box

Not simply another city shopping mall, but an exciting communal space designed by a team of young Thai architects. Photos supplied by the Department of Architecture

he Commons is the chic shopping mall on Thonglor Soi 17. Consider it the architectural opposite to all other shopping malls in the Thai capital. Why? Well, most malls are planned as a closed space, packed with international chains and bland food halls, while The Commons is an open-air space where creativity can be expressed. The Commons is the work of the architectural team behind the Department of Architecture. They have designed a new concept; an open space that also becomes a

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community mall, where owners are “food lovers and people passionate about their production,” says a member of the architectural team. “Vendors and suppliers spoke to us and we were given total freedom to create the place.” One of the owners of The Commons, Vicharat Vichit-Vadakan, tells me, “We were facing daunting difficulties to give shape to this place. First, we didn't get any support from financial institutions as they wondered how we could be profitable without having anchor brands such as Starbucks

or McDonald’s. We then collected money from friends and people who really trusted us. It took five years to achieve our dream, but it has been and still is, a wonderful adventure,” she says. The mall had to be within an open space, dedicated to the Thonglor local community. The challenge was to attract locals to shop and explore outside, an idea that few Bangkokians enjoy due to the heat and humidity outside. The Department of Architecture worked out the volume, and opened all possible spaces to let air circulate. bangkok101.com

heritage | SNAPSHOTS

They created an open space across various levels where even the underground level would be as important for visitors as the first and second floors. The appeal of The Commons is its sleek design set around a large open space, created for gatherings and shaped mostly by a large staircase that redistributes visitors’ flow. Minimalist style is ‘de rigueur’

Historic

Bangkok Paris native, Luc Citrinot, has lived in Southeast Asia for the past 12 years. A seasoned traveller, he writes about tourism, culture and architecture. He was instrumental on a recent EU-endorsed project to establish the European Heritage Map of Bangkok and subsequent app covering all of Thailand. He still travels extensively in Southeast Asia, looking particularity for new architectural gems related to colonial and European history. bangkok101.com

with its raw concrete structure, enhanced by woods and metals. The Commons starts with ‘The Ground’, consisting of steps and ramps integrated with platforms, seatings, planting and small kiosks. The area is well-shaded under the large concrete roof covering the third and the fourth floor structure, protecting visitors from the elements, but also providing enough ventilation to have a sense of snug and cosiness. Space has been of utmost importance, “particularly open, noncommercial spaces deliberately set to give the public a sense of comfort and good feeling,” is how Vichara describes it. The top floor is an airy semioutdoor space with gardens and a terrace offering sweeping views to the neighbourhoods of Thonglor and Ekkamai. Creating these open spaces on the top floor with vistas over local areas was made on purpose to provide a solution to the general challenge in a mall of attracting customers to upper levels. The Ground with its steps and intermediate levels were an

invitation to go naturally to the second floor. From the second floor, the impressive staircase and the discovery of open spaces encourage visitors to explore the upper levels. The openings in the third and the fourth floor give a sense of continuity to all spaces. Ventilation, fans and shutters have been used as pieces of decoration, providing a further touch to sophistication. After over two years in existence, The Commons has turned into one of the most popular places to meet in the Thonglor community. At the same time, the mall has played a social role, organising regular events such as art weekends and culinary activities. “We are so pleased about the result that we want to bring The Commons concept to new areas. We will soon be present in the Saladaeng/Silom area with our second Commons. It will be different in its essence with our Thonglor Commons, but the fundamentals we used will be the same. And I can already tell that we are not asking for any loans from banks,” says Vichara.

The Commons is located on 335 Thonglor Soi 17 in Khlong Toei Nuea. Open from 8am-1am every day. Closest public transport is Thonglor BTS station. JAN/ FEB 2019 | 35

SNAPSHOTS | very thai

Monk Baskets Shopping for offerings in the sacred aisle of the supermarket, part 1.

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Photo credit: John Goss

fter chanting at a ceremony, each monk gets a basket of goods. This donation may be offered on a pedestal tray, but more often comes in a bucket. Coloured saffron like their robes, this bucket has become a symbol of practical faith. It contains basic monk needs, which are prescribed by his vows: things like a robe, soap, incense, candles, matches and flip-flops. It’s one way to tham boon (make merit). Tham boon is meant to be humble supplication, and a bucket is considered more appropriate, as well as more practical. If donated before the monk’s last mealtime at noon, this khreuang sangha than package may contain food; if not it’s called a khreuang tai ya than. The monastic retreat is a simple, model life. Everything else is surplus, the stuff of craving. Monks stop craving on behalf of everyone else, so it’s incumbent on lay people to support their noble path. Tham boon accrues karmic air miles that improve prospects in the next life, so it is popular. Thais often make merit by donating money, releasing captive animals, or giving food on the monks’ morning alms round, but also in rites at festivals, weddings, business blessings or overnight bus pilgrimages to sacred sites. Thais never unwrap gifts in front of the giver. On opening the orange cellophane back at the wat, the monk must accept the gift inside with full equanimity, as with the mixture of food scooped into his alms bowl. Luxuries, adornments and intoxicants are taboo. At funerals, instead of wreaths (a Western import), some offer blankets folded into animals, or

A monk unloads baskets of everyday supplies donated as offerings by the sponsors of blessings and ceremonies.

towels shaped as gibbons, for reuse by the monks. “To me, giving without taking something back is real happiness,” said Sunee Tuampuemphol at a Pithee Kong Khao spirit appeasing ceremony in Sri Racha. “This tradition helps me understand the genuine concept of merit making.” But sometimes the giver’s intent doesn’t extinguish ego. With karma in mind, Thais seek to get back in kind what they offer. Give candles, become enlightened. Give medicine, gain health. Give food, never starve. Give flowers, gain beauty. Give money, gain wealth. To donate a Buddha image brings future wisdom, while financing a viharn chapel gains sanctuary from harm. This explains the surplus of underused temple buildings. Monastic lifestyle increasingly reflects secular tastes. In theory, monks shouldn’t handle gold, silver or money, but vows don’t ban them from using mobile phones

or Mercedes. Still the practice enhances public dismay at repeated monastic scandals. In 2003, the National Buddhism Office stressed existing bans on monks drinking alcohol and having dinner, as well as trends for walking on beaches, cheering at boxing matches, publicly using a mobile phone, or browsing department stores. Often senior monks get better khreuang sangha than. After all, donating to novices accrues less merit. Then there’s the awkward question of surplus donations. Do the math: one bucket per monk, several blessings a week, multiple monks per event (at birthdays they number the celebrant’s age plus one, to ensure longevity). That’s an awful lot of buckets. And soap. And incense. Monks do keep very clean, but they limit their robes to two and just how much toothpaste can a mouth take? Where does the bucket surplus go? Read part 2 in the next issue. bangkok101.com

At a massed merit making in Bangkok, devotees give packages of alms to monks who immediately unload the contents of their bowl into big bags held by volunteers for distribution to the needy.

> Very Thai

River Books by Philip Cornwel-Smith with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith B995 bangkok101.com

Now in its expanded, updated 2nd edition, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Very Thai: Everyday Popular Cultureâ&#x20AC;? is a virtual bible on Thai pop culture, and an influential must-read among foreigners and many Thais. Its 70 chapters and 590 photographs guide you on an unconventional Technicolor tour of the quirky things that make Thailand truly Thai. This column is based on different chapter every month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and buy a copy of the new edition at any good bookshop. JAN/ FEB 2019 | 37

Photo credit: Philip Cornwel-Smith

very thai | SNAPSHOTS

Man carrying rice plant seedlings on bamboo stick in Nakhon Phanom jungle.

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NAKHON PHANOM

akhon Phanom, in the northeastern region of Thailand, is approximately 734 km northeast of Bangkok and only 378 km southwest of Hanoi, Vietnam. The city also borders Laos on the Khamoun Province or Tha Khaek district, and it’s this proximity to both Hanoi and Laos that has influenced much of the culture of the region, including its role during the Vietnam War, serving U.S. forces of the 56th Air Commando Wing stationed at Nakhon Phanom Royal Thai Air Force Base. Known for its beautiful landscapes of rolling hills and rugged mountains, with the Mekong River running adjacent to the city, marking the current border between Thailand and Laos, Nakhon Phanom is enhanced by the lush beauty of the jungle that lies beyond the town of Thakaek on the Laotian side of the river. King Rama I chose the name Nakhon Phanom, meaning “The city of Hills”, because of the remarkable mountains found in the province. Covered with both high hills and low lying, forest covered plains, Nakhon Phanom is the site of Phra That Phanom, the most ancient and sacred religious monument in Northeastern Thailand. Thais and Laotians are both common pilgrims to this highly venerated Buddhist shrine where they come to ask for blessings. The city has become well-known for its centuries-old temples and visitors will find a glorious Kingdom of the past, rich in culture and traditions. Throughout the history of Nakhon Phanom, Laotians and people from smaller ethnic minority groups migrated across the Mekong River giving modern Nakhon Phanom a distinctive cultural fusion that is apparent in the local language, customs, and cuisine. Visitors can appreciate this culture during the Bai-Sri-Su-Kwan ceremony or by witnessing one of the region’s folk dances, such as the Sri Kotrabun, Fon Phu Thai, Sek-Ten-Sak, and So Tung Bung, some of which are only performed on special occasions. In addition to its rich culture, Nakhon Phanom is an Nakhon Phanom area with great natural beauty and which features a number of opportunities for visitors to participate in outdoor activities, including trekking in the national park or shooting a round of golf.

GETTING THERE By Bus There are many Bangkok to Nakhon Phanom buses from different companies in Morchit Bus Terminal. The journey time takes about 11 hours. For more information, call 1490 or visit www.transport.co.th By Train There are four direct trains daily from Hua Lamphong Railway Station Bangkok to Nakhon Phanom, leaving at 8:20am, 6:35pm, 8pm and 8:45pm. You can also take a train via Ubon Ratchathani. For ticket reservations, contact 1690. By Air There are direct flights from Bangkok Don Mueang to Nakhon Phanom Airport with Air Asia and Nok Air. Journey time takes around 1 hour and 15 minutes.

BANGKOK

TRAVEL | nakhon phanom - see & do

WHAT TO SEE &

WHAT TO DO

lthough Nakhon Phanom is a relatively small province compared to many in the northeast of the country, it still has plenty to offer and has become a popular thoroughfare with tourists and backpackers in recent years. As well as boasting some of the most beautiful Mekong River scenery in Southeast Asia, Nakhon Phanom is mainly viewed as a border crossing point to Tha Khaek in southern Laos, however, rather than merely passing through, a few days are recommended, allowing visitors to enjoy the relaxing atmosphere and bicycle-friendly riverfront. Here are a few other options of things to see and do in Nakhon Phanom.

PHRA THAT PHANOM

The sacred precinct of Phra That Phanom Chedi is located in the district under the same name. Originally built by Laotian King Setthathirath of Lan Xang in the 16th century, legend says, this structure contains the Buddhaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s breast bone. An annual oneweek festival is held during which thousands of people make pilgrimages to honour the shrine, especially for those born in the year of the Monkey.

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WAT MAHATHAT

Wat Mahathat houses the Phrathat Nakhon, the secondmost important pagoda in the province. In addition to the elegant spire, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a small museum that may be of interest, inside of which collections of Buddhist and Hindu images are housed. The tower was built in 607 AD on the orders of an army chief from Vientiane who brought his troops here to settle. The spire was fully renovated in 1922. The museum is in a small building to the left of the main chapel as you face it with your back to the entry gate. Admission is free.

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TRAVEL | nakhon phanom - see & do

INDOCHINA MARKET

Located around Samran Chai Khong Road in front of the Sri Mongkol Tai temple, this is where you’ll find many imported products from the likes of Russia, China, Vietnam and Laos. Most products are sold at wholesale and retail prices, so it’s easy to find a bargain. A lot of what’s on offer is clothing and ceramics, but you’ll also find electricity devices and consumer goods too. Apart from imported items, local products are sold and promoted, such as Thai silks, Mudmee-style clothing, and handmade kitchen ware. Open daily, 8am-5pm

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GOOD MORNING VIETNAM & COFFEE

This little corner shop has modernised in recent years with bright colours and a new coffee bar, but it still serves the same popular family recipes, including năam neuang (assemble-ityourself pork spring rolls) and spicy Thai s a l a d s — w i t h t h at northern Thai fiery kick—many of which have been served here to locals for four generations. Coffee is mostly locally-sourced from nearby regions, including Chang Mai, Chang Rai and plantations throughout the Isaan region. Open daily, 7am-5pm.

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CYCLE ROUTES

Nakhon Phanom boasts several kilometres of flat and picturesque cycle paths running along the edge of the Mekong River. In 2016, a 60 km dedicated cycle lane was created along the river in order to boost tourism—something that is proving to be a big success—and earlier this year there was an announcement to increase the lane as well as open new routes, including a purpose-built covered bridge with slip resistant surfacing and reflective markers along a 375 meter section in the heart of the city. Bicycles can be rented from Hall Bike (174/1 Nittayo Rd), LA Bike Shop (Sunthon Wichit Rd), Dear Bike Shop (Moo 1 Phanom Phanarat Rd) and K Bike/Lek Pradap Yont (696 Sunthon Wichit Rd).

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THE GOVERNOR’S HOUSE MUSEUM

North of the city centre along the banks of the river is the former governor’s mansion. It was built around 1912 to 1914 for the first governor appointed from Bangkok. It was a time when there were still tensions with the colonial French across the Mekong, so the house was built to resist attack. In 1955, when the king of Thailand visited, the governor had the house renovated for the king’s use on his one night in town. However, once the king left it would have been unseemly for the governor to sleep in the same room and so the house was abandoned and unused for more than 50 years. The museum is open Wed-Sun from 10am-6pm. It is closed on Mon-Tue. Admission is free.

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TRAVEL | food in nakhon phanom

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The Food of NAKHON PHANOM

ordered by the Mekong and close to Laos and Vietnam, specialities of Nakhon Phanom province include Mekong River fish and Vietnamese food, particularly staples from Loas. Given its northeastern location, it is also famous for its fiery Isaan food. Isaan food has elements most in common with Laos and is somewhat distinct from central Thai cuisine. The most obvious difference is the consumption of sticky rice that accompanies almost every meal rather than non-sticky long-grain rice. Popular Lao dishes have become staples in the diet of Nakhon Phanom locals too, and include the likes of tam mak hung (spicy papaya salad), or in central Thai, som tam (green papaya salad) and gai yang (grilled chicken). The people of the Isaan region—a mix of Lao, Vietnamese, Khmer, Mon, Cham, and other Tai groups—famously eat a wide variety of creatures, such as lizards, frogs, and fried insects like grasshoppers, crickets, silkworms, and dung beetles. Initially forced by poverty to be creative in finding foods, Isaan people now savour these creatures as delicacies or snacks. Food is commonly eaten by hand using sticky rice pressed into a ball with the fingers of the right hand. Soups are a common element of any meal and contain either vegetables and herbs, noodles, chunks of fish, balls of ground pork, or a mixture of these. They are eaten with a spoon and chopsticks at the same time. SOM TAM The most popular Isaan dish around is som tam, a spicy papaya salad comprised of shredded green papaya, green beans, tomatoes, peanuts, lime, dried shrimp, garlic, chili peppers, fish sauce, and palm sugar. All the ingredients are pounded together in a mortar and the result is a salty, tangy, slightly sweet and sometimes very spicy, crispy salad. There are many variations on som tam, and you’ll often find it made with fermented pla daek fish and salted crab out on the street.

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TRAVEL | food in nakhon phanom

GAI YANG Simple grilled chicken, often made on a small charcoal grill on the side of the road, is a staple of Isaan food. You’ll also find grilled pork neck and grilled fish, too. The meats are often marinated in a simple sauce with lemon juice, sugar, and other ingredients, but the flavours are not usually overpowering. KOR MOO YANG Thai grilled pork neck has the right amount of lean meat, muscle, and fat, served as a flavourful combo with a sour, sweet and spicy Jaew dipping sauce commonly found in northern Thailand. Similar to Chinese char siu pork, the meat is marinated, barbequed, or grilled. It’s sweet, salty, sticky, fragrant from the lemongrass, and fresh from the coriander. LAAB This Laotian meat salad has variations of minced or sliced pork, chicken, beef, duck, and even liver. Being popular in Isaan, it’s usually eaten as a part of a set of papaya salad and sticky rice accompanied by string beans, sliver of cabbage, water spinach and Thai basil. It can be served as an appetiser or main course along with other non-northeastern food. NAM TOK The lesser-known sister of Laab, spicy meat-based salad. The name, “waterfall” refers to the liquid, or blood, in the meat. Its dressing is made with ground roasted rice, ground dried chillies, fish sauce, lime juice, shallots and mint leaves, sometimes featuring spring onions. It’s traditionally eaten with sticky rice and raw vegetables such as thua fak yao or yardlong beans and kalam pli or cabbage. ISAAN SAUSAGE This pork and rice sausage is very popular as an evening snack and is often prepared in small balls connected to each other and cooked on a grill. This sausage is called sai crok Isaan because the meat and rice mixture is stuffed into casings then fermented for a few days before being cooked and served. It sounds risky but the garlicky, sour flavour is sublime. 46 | JAN/ FEB 2019

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TRAVEL | nakhon phanom - see & do

Conical hats are regularly worn by farmers across the border in Vietnam, but are a common site in northern Thailand too.

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HO CHI MINH

Ho Chi Minh Memorial

Attractions Discover the historical connections between Thailand and Vietnam in Nakhon Phanom.

T Ho Chi Minh House

Statue of Ho Chi Minh

here are three main Ho Chi Minh attractions in Nakhon Phanom: Ho Chi Minh House, Ho Chi Minh Memorial and Ho Chi Minh Museum. All three are located in the same area within Ban Na Chok village and are within easy walking distance of one another. The best of the three is the house, now owned by the grandchildren of the people who owned the house at the time. The building is a replica of the simple wooden house where 'Uncle Ho' —he is believed to have used as many as 200 pseudonyms—lived between 1928 and 1929 while planning his resistance movement in Vietnam. A few of the furnishings are believed to be originals.The premise is now a private property in the back of a family home, but visits are permitted. The Ho Chi Minh Museum is the least visited but probably the most educational of the three attractions. Covering much of Ho Chi Minh’s life, the museum consists of mostly pictures with some English translations. It is located at the cultural centre, behind the Ho Chi Minh Memorial.

Ho Chi Minh Memorial Complex

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TRAVEL | nakhon phanom - see & do

Golf Courses The growing sport of golf in Thailand is on the rise.

ith Nakhon Phanom’s open land and famed rolling hills, it’s no wonder golf is quickly becoming a popular pastime for both locals and visitors alike. In fact, Thailand’s golf heritage dates back to 1923 when King Vajiravudh the Great became interested in the sport and agreed to the construction of the Royal Hua Hin Golf Course. The Thailand Golf Association dates back to 1964, and it set about organising the Thailand Open for professional golfers the following year. Clubs in Nakhon Phanom don’t have quite as long a history, and in fact, there is really only one major course; however, interest is steadily growing, and golfers will find a course and driving range, both with spectacular views. Phu Kra Tae Golf Club Located in the compound of Nakhon Phanom University on Nittayo Road, Phu Kra Tae Golf Club is a popular course for locals, with plush putting greens and spectacular mountain views. Formally known as Nakhon Phanom Technical School, the course is 9-hole with many members playing twice to complete an 18-course round. It is a walking course and has caddies available to help with your clubs and offer course management advice. This course consists of rolling hills, and water traps include a lake, ponds and plenty of streams. The sand traps are poorly filled with often hard sand so you may want to avoid messing up your sand wedge and drop onto the nearest grass spot. Caddies are also available for hire, with most speaking good English. Open: daily, 8am-5pm.

Tel: 086 455 3516 | www.thailandtriptour.com/nakhonpanom/phu-kratae-golf-club

DD Driving Range Golf Club A useful driving range to practice your swing, DD Driving Range offers lessons to adults and children. Tel: 089 262 6919 | www.facebook.com/pages/DD-Driving-Range-Golf-Club

ACROSS THE BORDER Daoheuang Golf Club Golf Club The only golf course in Savannakhet province, Laos, Dao Heuang Golf Club is located minutes across the border, 3 kilometres from Savannakhet Airport and 5 kilometres from the bus terminal. This short par 3-course has only 9-holes, so time permitting, we’d encourage a double-round. The 9-hole course can easily be completed in around an hour. The final ninth hole is the longest at 325-metres. Night golf is also available if you are up for a round of golf after the sun has gone down. Pre-booking not necessary. Tel: (856 41) 252444, (856 20) 5656 6555 | www.facebook.com/Savannakhet-Golf-Club

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| ART & CULTURE

ART â&#x20AC;&#x153;Hello Puppy, Greeting Piggyâ&#x20AC;? by Her Royal Highness Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn

his special photography exhibition by H.R.H. Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn is a precious experience open to the public. Visitors can see up close and in-depth a series of Her Royal Highnesses' photography taken during her many travels in Thailand and other official state visits to countries around the world. Since 2007, H.R.H. Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn has graciously granted permission to The Royal Photographic Society of Thailand and Bangkok Art and Culture Centre to exhibit the photographs as a source of knowledge and wisdom to students and the wider public. Demonstrating Her Royal Highnesses' artistic side, works within the exhibition include "Color Is Light. Light Is Color, 2007"; "Always Roaming with A Hungry Heart, 2008"; "Destinations, 2009"; "The Colors of Life, 2010"; "Born To This World, 2011"; "Camera in Motion : a Global Perspective, 2012"; "Traveling Photos, Photos Traveling, 2013"; "Clairvoyance, 2014"; "Happiness That Long Life Brings, 2015"; "Along the Way of Splendour, 2016"; and "Poetry of Light, 2017". This year, H.R.H. Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn has granted permission for a special video display which features a presentation on the photographs, their concepts and their stories. Until March 10, 2019 Bangkok Art and Culture Centre Main Gallery, 9th Floor, 939 Rama1 Rd. Tel: 02 214 6630-8 | Tue-Sun 10am-6.30pm www.bacc.or.th

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ART & CULTURE | exhibitions

UNTIL JANUARY 7 & 15 Oneirism: Dreamscapes in Exhibition and THAITA

Photographer Gallery, River City Bangkok www.facebook.com/ItalianFestivalThailand

In celebration of 150 years of friendship between Italy and Thailand, River City Bangkok is proud to present ‘Italian Visuals,’ two exhibitions featuring Italian artists in RCB Photographers’ Gallery. Supported by the Italian Embassy and as part of the Italian Festival 2018–150th Anniversary Edition, Antonio Saba (until 7th) and Massimo Catalani (until 15th) will exhibit large scale paintings and photographs, which will reflect their impressions and interpretations of both countries and cultures.

UNTIL JANUARY 13 Bangkok That Was: Photographs 1956-1961 Serindia Gallery

36 Charoen Krung Rd | 02 238 6410 | www.serindiagallery.com

A tale of the Italian photographer Fabrizio La Torre (1921-2014) who lived in Bangkok for five years from 1956 to 1961, “Bangkok That Was” is a story of an artist in the world not too far gone, chance encounters and opportunities to travel. These photos, many of which remained unseen for years, were recently restored, with his permission and supervision, until he passed away in 2014. A book to accompany the exhibition is the first book dedicated to the Asian photographs of Fabrizio La Torre. A tender and curious universe to be discovered by all who love Thailand.

UNTIL JANUARY 19 Vetal Suite, Curiosities Unearthed by Chatchai Puipia Nova Contemporary

GF of Baan Somthavil, Soi Mahadlek-Luang 3 l Tuesday-Sunday 11am-7pm l 090 910 6863 l www.novacontemporary.com

The artist Chatchai Puipia re-appeared from his last exhibition in 2010, and with this exhibition, dives straight into the question of memory, asking the viewer to question what is real and what is a dream. The artist works as a storyteller, half-man, half-ghost, someone or something from a mythical land; whose home is filled with a collection of trinkets, ornaments and personal effects—his tools of the trade. The paintings reflect this, and are laid open to the curious visitor. 54 | JAN/ FEB 2019

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exhibitions | ART & CULTURE

UNTIL JANUARY 27 This page is intentionally left blank: Pratchya Pinthong Bangkok City City Gallery

13/3 Sathorn 1, South Sathorn Rd. l 0830872725 Wed-Sun 1pm-7pm l www.bangkokcitycity.com

The idea behind this series stemmed from artist Pratchaya Pinthong’s visit to The National Gallery of Thailand. He spotted a logbook which became his inspiration. From a compilation in his mind, he conceptualised structures and elements of the show before removing the dispensable parts. This artistic approach implicates a consolidated relationship of evident objects, the artist inviting the audience to study, then agree, disagree and discuss-happenings within the art world.

UNTIL FEBRUARY 20 Beyond The Final Frontier S.A.C. Subhashok The Arts Centre

160/3 Sukhumvit 33 l 02 258 5580 ext. 401 Tue-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat-Sun 11am-6pm l www.sac.gallery

Visitors will encounter two specially commissioned works: a soundscape of outer space based on recorded audio of daily life throughout Thailand by Arnont Nongyao, and a series of different ‘scents of space’ created in collaboration with astronomy enthusiast Visanu Euarchukiati and Associate Professor Nopadol. Artists Chulayarnnon Siriphol, Prapat Jiwarangsan and Takuro Kotaka will present multimedia works that explore our futures in relation to outer space and how they are reflected in Thailand today. These works will be interspersed with scenes documented by the curator Lauren Reid. MIXED CLAMS nam sausage + coriander lime broth LOCATION Conveniently located just 20 metres off Convent Rd (on Soi Pipat 2), in Bangkok’s Silom District OPENING HOURS 3pm–1am Every Day Full Kitchen & Bar until 1am CONTACT T: 02 238 0931 E: reservations@eatmerestaurant.com @eatmerestaurant @eatmerestaurant @eatmerestaurant

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ART & CULTURE | interview

BACC… To the Future An interview with Pawit Mahasarinand, Director of The Bangkok Art and Culture Centre. Words and interview by Robin Westley Martin

he story of the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) began back in 1995, when the Governor of Bangkok, Bhichit Rattakul, proposed a project called ‘The Bangkok Contemporary Art Centre’, and that it should be located near to Siam Square, to best serve locals and visitors alike. The project, however, came to a halt in 2001 when Samak Sundaravey became governor, as he envisaged a commercial retail space with private investors instead. Cultural organisations, artists, students, and the media then joined together to oppose the suspension, and in 2004, when Apirak Kosayodin became governor,

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the project was reinstated along with the original lines. On 29 July 2008, the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre finally opened. Recently, the BACC has been in the news again, as the Bangkok Metropolitan Authority (BMA) is contemplating withdrawal of its 40 million baht annual grant. I met Pawit Mahasarinand, Director of the BACC, to discuss this and find out what the BACC’s programme of events has in store for the coming year.

change to the city’s contract with the BACC, although this is still under discussion. One difference that has been made, however, is that instead of BACC receiving the 40 to 45 million baht grant to disburse ourselves, the money would be sent to the Ministry of Tourism, Sports, and Culture. We now have to submit our project proposals to their office and hope we are successful.

The BACC is a building and exhibition centre that Bangkok What is the current situation and Thailand can feel proud of, regarding funding for the BACC? showcasing Thai art and culture Going back to mid-2017, some of to the world. Has this new system the city councillors proposed a caused you problems? bangkok101.com

interview | ART & CULTURE

Well, after the public outcry about the possibility of losing our funding, we found out that the vice governor of Bangkok—who is responsible for the BACC— is on our side, and is making representations on our behalf. He works closely with our board members, who consist of 12 people, half from the business sector and half from the arts community. This year we received bills from the BMA for our utilities, electricity and water, with a threat to withdraw their supply to us. This was resolved, and the city is presently taking care of these bills, which come to about a million baht per month. bangkok101.com

These problems aside, you continue to keep a high profile on the Bangkok Arts scene, correct? Yes, I am delighted to say we do, and the ongoing Bangkok Art Biennale, which we support, is an excellent case in point. From our early days, when we attracted 300,000 visitors per year, that figure rose to more than 1.7 million visitors in 2017, which also saw our biggest attendance for an exhibition—referring to the exhibition titled In Remembrance of the Great King—attracting 158,000 over four months. But the brightest news is that the Maria Abramovich exhibition A Possible Island last October drew 55,000 in only three weeks. Unbelievable.

We are continuing to show works from the Biennale until 3 February, and this month we are putting on several exhibitions, workshops, and interactive cultural shows for the children. I will be continuing throughout the year with programmes specifically targeting children, to nurture their interest in art and culture. They are the future of our country, and hopefully some of them will become great artists or performers. I feel privileged and happy to be Director of the BACC. This building holds everything I care for. www.en.bacc.or.th JAN/ FEB 2019 | 57

ART & CULTURE | interview

Hugh Maynard in the title role of Sweeney Todd

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interview | ART & CULTURE

An Interview with

HUGH MAYNARD Star of London's West End Men on leading roles and visiting Thailand. In conversation with Zazithorn Ruengchinda

ugh Maynard trained at The Academy of Live and Recorded Arts (ALRA) and Arts Educational, and has worked across film, theatre, music and television. He was personally chosen by Andrew Lloyd Webber to play the principle role of Simon Zealotes and the understudy of Judas, in Jesus Christ Superstar. Since then Hugh has continued to have a successful career worldwide and in London’s West End. In 2004, Hugh played the character of John in Miss Saigon and to date is the youngest person to have been given the privilege of playing this role. He is also the former sixth member of Tenors of Rock and has performed around the world, including at the 2012 Olympic Games. In 2014 he returned to play the same role in the award-winning revival of Miss Saigon and made theatre history again in 2016, by being the first black actor in UK history to play the title role in Sweeney Todd. You’ve been in some exceptional productions over the years. Which character did you identify with the most and why? As Jesus Christ Superstar was my first professional musical, I put all my acting, singing and dancing awareness down to this one show. On separate occasions I had the honour of playing the roles of Simon Zealotes and Judas. I’m still waiting for my offer to play Jesus. Playing Judas, I felt sorry for him, I can’t really explain why, perhaps bangkok101.com

management… people that make the show possible. London’s West End Men in Concert is a celebration of the leading men in musical theatre. So, who is your all-time favourite leading man? That would be the multi-award winner James Earl Jones. I have always liked his acting style and certainly his voice. He's great in Cat on a Hot Tin Roof and as Mufasa in The Lion King and King Jaffe Joffer in Coming to America. What can audiences in Bangkok expect at January’s London’s West End Men in Concert? The audiences can expect worldclass entertainment and a specially selected collection of music sung from the heart. London’s West End Men celebrate the leading Men of Do you have any pre-performance Musical Theatre, and it is great that we are all available at the same time rituals? Before any show, I feel it is important to fly to Thailand. to be with and interact with all the people involved in the production. Is this your first time in Thailand Normally in my world this would and what are you looking forward happen on stage, during the process to the most? of the physical and vocal warm-up. No, I have been to Thailand many I like to speak to people whether times. I am looking forward to visiting they are actors, stage management, friends, like Kitting Kittipakapom crew, band members, front of house from Miss Saigon and Tip Kerchart, reps, wigs, wardrobe, producers, a Thai Restaurant owner.

his intelligence. Another memorable moment was from my role as John in Miss Saigon. Singing “Bui Doi” every night was exciting and very emotional. I will be singing this song in Bangkok.

London’s West End Men in concert with the Royal Bangkok Symphony Orchestra, is supported by the British Embassy Thailand, and takes place at the Thailand Cultural Centre on January 19th, 2019. Tickets are available priced from B500-B4,500 from www.thaiticketmajor.com or call: 02 262 3456. JAN/ FEB 2019 | 59

ART & CULTURE | museum spotlight

BANGKOK ART BIENNALE With just over a month left to enjoy the first edition of the Bangkok Art Biennale, the clock is ticking to get out there and explore. By Luc Citrinot

he spectacular Bangkok Art Biennale (BAB) event looks at bringing art from all around the world to Bangkok, as well as integrating with the works of Thai artists. Temples such as Wat Arun, public spaces, hotels and malls, are all exhibiting artworks of artists until February 3, the date of the official closure of the almost four-month-long event. I suggest visiting the BAB Box @ONE BANGKOK, next to Lumpini Park, to admire an incredible collection of contemporary artworks. The Box is a temporary structure, painted in dark colours and standing at one of the busiest corners of Bangkok on Wireless/Rama IV Roads. The place would go entirely unnoticed if it wasn't for the giant, floating sculptures inside and outside the structure, drag turning the heads of passing traffic. The BOX is indeed one of the most important exhibition spaces of the BAB. It is the only specially

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created space for the event while other exhibition areas have used the existing structure. It is free of charge and offers visitors a fantastic display of contemporary art by both Thai and international artists. Climb to the first floor (Second floor for Thai) to discover a giant mural work of a Laotian-Isan artists’ collective. They came together to create a mural inspired by a piece of literature, the Sang Silpachai, which speaks about a teenager looking to rescue his aunt by travelling along the Mekong River from Vientiane up to Bangkok, meeting demons, superheroes and soldiers. Painted like ancient religious murals, the ‘Hooptam’, depicts Buddhist lessons and philosophies as well as local wisdom and cultures of Laos and Isan mixed with elements of modern life such as mobile phones or TV heroes. An awe-inspiring series of painting comes from Natee Urarit, one of the most intriguing Thai bangkok101.com

museum spotlight | ART & CULTURE

contemporary painters. Urarit mixes traditional Thai, renaissance style and baroque painting, which evokes blind faith and the issue of death. Renaissance figures from Italy and Holland cohabit in his paintings while evoking Thai values. Another major Thai artist present at the ‘Ephemeral Museum’ is Sriwan Janehuttakarnkit, showcasing a series under the theme ‘Dharma, Nature and Normality’ depicting humans confronted to skeletons. But livings are embroiled into suffering due to their selfishness while skeletons evoke a stand of happiness. The Box also presents an opportunity for locals to view internationaly renowned artists. This is a rather unique opportunity as few foreigners are exhibited in Thailand due to fiscal reasons. French artist JeanMichel Basquiat, Turkish artist Canan, and Italian artist Francesco Clemente, all confront their visions with Thai counterparts. Truly fascinating. bangkok101.com

@ONE BANGKOK is open from 10am-9pm every day except Tuesday. Entry is free. closest MRT stop is MRT Lumpini Park. JAN/ FEB 2019 | 61

ART & CULTURE | special feature

Memory Lane:

A WALK THROUGH

OLD BANGKOK

o mark the “Bangkok That Was: Photographs 19561961” exhibition by Fabrizio La Torre at the Serindia Gallery and the launch of the accompanying book, we spoke to Bangkok residents and asked them for their memories of old Bangkok and whether they could let us into any secrets, stories or hidden gems within the city. Here are their recommendations.

BENJAWAN WISOOTSATE Managing Director, fin-fabulous is needed Tah Din Deang Street has more or less remained the origin for the Chinese community, not only in this street but also neighbouring streets like Chiangmai Road (or Wat Tong Tammachart) and what is known as Lhong. Walk along the narrow alleys, and you’ll smell the incense burning. Chinese people have always loved to shop at markets in the morning for their fresh ingredients so you’ll find different markets all busy with women buying produce for the family dinner that evening. Markets and local groceries replace supermarkets here. You’ll also find old and authentic stationery shops and a Chinese pharmacy, which remains integral to the community. The pharmacy has this old-style front open fridge, stocked with Chinese medicinal tonics (jub liang) and cold Chrysanthemum, which is very refreshing and full of health benefits. If you’re hungry, then explore the sub Sois too, and discover hot desserts like bean custard with ginger soup and crispy Chinese doughnuts. Alternatively, how about egg noodles with fish balls or gui chai (a Chinese chive dumpling) and carrot cake? Not many people see or read the sign for "Sor Rad Na" but this second-generation restaurant is a local and chef favourite, run by two sisters, daughters of the owner. The father still cooks, and he’s easy to spot as is usually shirtless. 62 | JAN/ FEB 2019

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special feature | ART & CULTURE

DAVID ROBINSON Director of Bangkok River Partners & Co-Founder of Creative District Foundation The Chao Phraya River today remains the most important waterway for the people of central Thailand. The river is an important transport link for the shipping of products such as rice to Bangkok. Locals have made the banks

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their home since ancient times and created their livelihoods from its environment. It is no wonder that the river is regarded as the bloodline of Thai people. Today, locals living along the Chao Phraya River banks maintain an authentic lifestyle, so it’s well worth exploring along the banks of the river. The river also plays an important role in Thailand’s vibrant festivals such as Loy Krathong, held every November when thanks are expressed to the goddess of water, and Songkran—the Thai New Year celebrations.

JAN/ FEB 2019 | 63

ART & CULTURE | special feature

PHILIP CORNWEL-SMITH Writer & Editor Bangkok has transformed out of all recognition into a global metropolis over the 25 years since I have begun observing it as founding editor of Bangkok’s first city magazine, Metro. Just as it had modernised from a rural backwater in the preceding quarter of a century since the era of “Bangkok That Was”. Change is constant here and notions of heritage are mostly limited to royal and religious structures, not to retain coherent everyday streetscapes that set the imagination racing. The riverside on both banks has the oldest urbanism and still offers the best evocation of the past, especially Songwad Road and Talad Noi. A district that still evokes the particular 1950s era of Fabrizio La Torre is Samsen, less in landmarks than in its patrician old school feel. And order lunch at Khrua Apsorn to try the sort of dishes like Fabrizio would have been served.

64 | JAN/ FEB 2019

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special feature | ART & CULTURE

SUPANSA BOURKE Director of Sales and Marketing Renaissance Bangkok Ratchaprasong Hotel

DANIEL FRASER, Managing Director, Smiling Albino

Over two million people visit Grand Palace every year but not many pay a visit to the white building next to the inner entrance. This Italianate office building had previously served as the Ministry of Finance and the Office of Royal Ceremony. It underwent top-to-bottom renovation that transformed it into a state-of-the-art building and is used as The Museum of textiles. Not many people know about the 22 year long working relationship between Her Majesty and French couturier Pierre Balmain. Her Majesty determined that she would need to use mainly Thai Silk, since it was impossible for the Queen to visit Paris in order to be fitted for her clothes. The fabric was cut and the pieces sent to Lesage to be embroidered. When they were finished, they would go back to Balmain, and they would be seemed together and fitted on Her Majesty's dress form. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s how Balmain was able to get her full wardrobe to Bangkok before her departure.

Branching north from Captain Bush Lane I love to weave through the labyrinth of Sois of Talad Noi, which is an old mercantile community at the foot of Songwat Road in Yaowarat. Between Talad Noi and Songwat Road lies a treasure trove of visual and aromatic discoveries, old world cottage industries, a mix of Thai, Chinese, European, Islamic heritage and religious shrines, and some of the more stately shophouses in old Bangkok. This is a journey back into late 19th Century Bangkok, requiring little imagination to visualise how life was, and always presenting something charming and remarkable for the multi-time visitor. Hidden gems along the way include tiny Song Serm Lane, as well as Soi Wanit 1, and the original Trok Khao San.

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JAN/ FEB 2019 | 65

ART & CULTURE | special feature

JOE CUMMINGS Writer I like wandering back in time through the neighborhood surrounding Soi Phat Sai in Chinatown. Phat Sai is home to Bangkok’s oldest coffeeshop, Eiah Sae, where the same family has been roasting and grinding its own robusta blend to brew strong Hokkien-style coffee since 1927. While sipping caffeine at one of the little tables outdoors, look back towards the Wat Sampatawong end of the soi, and imagine what it might have been like when the world’s largest opium den, Heng Lak Hung, stood there. When authorities finally closed it down in 1954, the den boasted 5,000 permanent boarders, and averaged another thousand opium consumers a day. Down the opposite end of the soi stands the city’s first Chao Zhou (Tae Jiu) restaurant, Yim Yim, now run by the founding family’s third generation. Roasted suckling pig here is excellent, and if you’re brave, try heu sae, a Chao Zhou sashimi in sliced raw fish.

KORAKOT ‘NYM’ PUNLOPRUKSA Writer & Presenter For me, the Bangkok I grew up in consisted of small villages strung together. Each village or district had a special character that was determined by its people, their careers, specialities in food, and of course, location. There are still a few of these places left with the same 66 | JAN/ FEB 2019

atmosphere. Never feel discouraged by change, and I suggest seeking out what’s left of the old city. As a food lover, I can tell you that there are some interesting communities where intrepid explorers can inhale the aromas and character of an old village. Nang Loeng is a community that has local food markets, narrow streets to venture through and temples to observe. Another old community called Kadee Cheen is across the river from the Flower Market. Here, there’s an old Portuguese church and a lovely cluster of Thai wooden houses still alive with activity. bangkok101.com

special feature | ART & CULTURE

KEN BARRETT Author of "22 Walks in Bangkok: Exploring the City’s Back Lanes and Byways" I like exploring Captain Bush Lane and the nearby blocks that contain a wealth of history. This stretch of the riverbank is where Bangkok’s European community settled in the middle of the 19th century, when the signing of the Bowring Treaty in 1855 opened Siam to Western trade. Walking the streets on the riverside reveals much of the Old Bangkok that Captain Bush would have known. He would certainly have known the Portuguese Embassy, next door to the Sheraton Hotel (you can peep into the ambassador’s garden from the higher floors). bangkok101.com

JAN/ FEB 2019 | 67

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Art & Culture

Photo Feature

BANGKOK THAT WAS Photographs 1956-1961 Bangkok That Was is a tale of the Italian photographer Fabrizio La Torre (Rome, 1921-Brussels, 2014) who lived in Bangkok for five years from 1956 to 1961. It is a story of an artist in the world not too far gone, chance encounters and opportunities to travel. These photos, many of which remained unseen for years, were recently restored, with his permission and supervision, until he passed away in 2014. ÂŠAll photos copyright Brussels Art Edition

A book to accompany the exhibition was published on the occasion of a 2018 double exhibition of this artist in the National Museum of Bangkok and Serindia Gallery, the first book dedicated to the Asian photographs of Fabrizio La Torre. A tender and curious universe to be discovered by all who love Thailand. The exhibition and its catalogue are made possible with the support of the Italian Embassy, Bangkok, Belgian Embassy, Bangkok, Thai-Italian Chamber of Commerce, BeLu Thai, and THAI Airways International. The Bangkok That Was exhibition runs at the Serindia Gallery Bangkok until 13 January 2019.

BANGKOK THAT WAS: Photographs 1956-1961 by Fabrizio La Torre Edited by FranĂ§ois Bayle Serindia Publications and Brussels Art Edition ISBN 978-1932476-91-0 21 x 26cm, 148 pages, fully illustrated, softcover 1,200 Baht

Wat Arun, before the banks of the river in front of the temple were developed.

Having been brought from the northern provinces following the natural course of the rivers, these bundles of bamboo arrive in Bangkok for use on building sites.

In the potters' district, the high-water does not trouble the artisans whose enormous vases are too heavy to be swept away. It doesn't stop the children playing either, nor their amusement on seeing the photographer paddling in the water looking for the right angle for the shot.

On these hefty boats, it is not just the commercial cargo (materials or food) that the "pilot" has to bring safely to port. Usually, his whole family lives on this floating home, which gives some sense of the responsibility bornbe by these men and women who, with only the help of a pole, have to steer their way through strong, sometimes wild currents.

A female "pilot" navigating her boat with a wooden pole on the Chao Phraya River.

Private or public transport, on water and dry land, the two systems co-exist.

Can we spot the many human beings who seem to be hiding in this incredible tangle of boats and pots?

Does it take courage or foolhardiness to bathe or wash in the murky waters of the river and its klongs (canals)? Everything or nearly everything used to arrive in Bangkok by river, and rather too many things returned to it-waste, water, rubbish-given the lack of sanitary disposal systems and purification plants.

Two examples of street food in Bangkok, a mother and her five children playing in the "shop" and a Chinese cook amused by the interest shown by the gastronomically inclined photographer. Appearances can be deceptive: observing the choice place which is given to them, the particular care shown to them, you might think that children in Thailand have always enjoyed the status which their peers in Western countires have recently attained, that of "little emperors" who can do what they like, who are the centre of attention for adults. It is not actually the case. It is not the child who is mistakenly fetishised but rather the family, this core unti, which takes on many forms, where the attention lavished on children is only equalled by the respect shown to the elderly, where exchanges between generations bind people together, where anyone can receive help and be comforted, whatever the problem, trouble at work or a broken heart. This all comes to mind quite naturally when looking at this mother carrying and holding her two kids.

Though my job was actually land-based, in an office, I freely admit that whenever I boarded the dredger or one of our other vessels, I never forgot to take my Exacta, my trustry camera, always on the lookout for two or three interesting shots.

Fabrizio never talked much about his sentimental attachments, though he was fond of this photo with its natural harmony, notwithstanding the extreme austerity of the scene. According to him, "it was all about the little splash of white in the smile."

What could more perfectly illustrate respect for nature than these buffaloes and their keeper crossing a rice paddy whilst causing no more than a slight lapping of the water? Harmony.

Wines About Gaja is the iconic wine producer from the Piedmont region of Italy and one of the country’s most outstanding wineries, primarily producing Barbaresco and Barolo wines. They also produce Brunello and “Super Tuscans” and have become worldrenowned for their quality wines made with Nebbiolo grapes.

Gaja Family The Gaja family settled in the Piedmont region back in the 17th century. The winery was named after its founder Giovanni Gaja, who started it with only ﬁve acres. Today, Gaia, Rossana and Giovanni are the ﬁfth generation of family members involved in winery operations. Together with their parents, Angelo and Lucia, they have been continuing a family tradition that has never stopped since 1859, when Giovanni founded the winery.

Gaja Today Today, Gaja has 100 hectares of vineyards in Piedmont, divided into 32 separate plots and producing around 30,000 cases of wine per year. They also own and operate 120 hectares at Ca’Marcanda in Bolgheri and a further 27 hectares at Pieve S. Restituta in Montalcino, both located within Tuscany. They make a variety of wines–including Promis and Magari Grappa– but continue to be most well-known for their iconic Barbaresco and Barolo wines. Recently, they purchased land on the north slope of Mount Etna in Sicily–around 21 hectares of vineyards that have Etna native grapes like Carricante and Nerello Mascalese–joining forces with local producer Alberto Graci, with the ambition of building another winery and purchasing further vineyards in the longer term. The book, The Vines of San Lorenzo by Edward Steinberg details the long and impressive history of the family, telling the tale of how Angelo Gaja transformed an obscure Italian wine, Barbaresco, and made it an international celebrity.

to immerse himself in the family business. Growing up with the Gaja legacy, Giovanni loved spending time in the vineyards, gleaning wisdom that only the Gaja family possesses. He now helps guide the company into the future, overseeing the original estate as well as the new estate in Sicily; and travels the world to educate drinkers and promote the Gaja brand. His recent visit to Thailand was his first, having visited Bangkok and Phuket, working with GFour on masterclasses and event dinners. www.gaja.com Giovanni Gaja

Giovanni Gaja As the youngest member of the family, Giovanni has established himself as a driving force in the wine industry. Referred to as “the rising star of Italian wines” he spent six months in London followed by a year in New York, working for a fine wine company before returning to Barbaresco G Four fine wines & spirits is the official exclusive distributor of Gaja wines in Thailand: Barbaresco, Barolo, Brunello & Super Tuscans wine made by Gaja family in the winery in Piedmont and Tuscany are available in the best five-star hotels and fine dining restaurants in Bangkok, Phuket and in other regions. Among them, Gianni’s Restaurant owned and managed by Italian chef Gianni Favro who hosted a wine dinner presented by Giovanni Gaja, the fifth generation of winemakers from the Gaja Family, founded in 1859 by his great grandfather, Giovanni Gaja in Barbaresco, a small village in Piedmont, which became famous worldwide for its premium quality wines made with Nebbiolo grapes.

28B Skulthai Surawong Tower, 141/42 Surawong Rd., Bangkok, THAILAND Tel: 02 237 9831-6 Info@gfour.co.th, sales@gfour.co.th www.gfour.co.th www.facebook.com/gfourinternational

Old World meets New World with the new Mediterranean-inspired menu at Via Maria Bistro & Natural Wine Bar.

| FOOD & DRINK

AROY

(means tasty)

old world meets new world with a new and inspired menu A year since opening their doors, Via Maris—who last month upgraded their name to Via Maris Bistro & Natural Wine Bar—have also introduced their new natural wine bar and new menu created by Chef Francesco Deiana that’s geared towards produce from the Mediterranean. The comprehensive menu draws mainly from the Old World with a handful of creations sourced from the New World. Highlights include Spanish razor clams, jamón ibérico joselito, and grilled French mullet with saffron and sultans baked rice. Open Mon-Fri for lunch, 12:00-2:30pm; and Mon-Sun for dinner, 5:30pm-11:30pm. www.viamarisbkk.co

oysters with altitude CRU Champagne Bar has launched an ‘Oysters with Altitude’ promotion at Centara Grand at CentralWorld, inviting guests to sample the silky, velvety, luxury taste of first-class oysters. Those with a penchant for the finer things in life will know nothing goes better with a glass of Champagne than fresh, premium oysters; and, being the highest alfresco Champagne bar in the world, CRU is pleased to announce that this brand new oyster menu can be enjoyed every night of the week from the rooftop. Guests can opt for raw servings in the shell or spice things up with an ‘Oyster Bloody Mary’ or ‘a la diable’. A set of six oysters is priced at just B799++ with a glass of Champagne G.H. Mumm Grand Cordon Brut. www.champagnecru.com

praya dining Praya Dining at Praya Palazzo relaunches with an exquisite culinary journey through time. The cuisine at Praya Dining is curated to showcase the history, opulence of ingredients and culture of each Siamese era from the ancient Kingdom of Sukhothai until today’s prosperous Rattanakosin. Praya Dining guides diners on a culinary journey through Thai history. Each dish highlights how Thai cuisine evolved during each era throughout history. Praya Dining is located in the century-old Italian style river mansion Praya Palazzo. Today a luxury boutique hotel, Praya Palazzo is situated directly on Chao Phraya River and is exclusively accessible only by boat. The mansion’s shuttle boat provides a 24-hour service to and from either the Tha Phra Arthit Pier or Rajathiwas. www.prayapalazzo.com

setsubun spring delights at yamazato Master Chef Shigeru Hagiwara and his talented culinary team at the award-winning signature Japanese restaurant Yamazato at The Okura Prestige Bangkok mark the advent of spring with delicious Setsubun Gozen lunch platters and Kaiseki dinner. During the Setsubun celebrations, special Ehomaki sushi rolls are eaten while facing the auspicious direction for that year. This year the lucky direction is east-north est. Yamazato was recently awarded the Michelin Plate designation for the second year in a row in the Michelin Guide Thailand. Setsubun Gozen lunch and Kaiseki dinner are available from until February 24, 2019. Lunch, 11:30am-2:30pm priced at B1,400++ per person; dinner, 6pm-10:30pm priced at B4,700++ per person. www.okurabangkok.com bangkok101.com

JAN/ FEB 2019 | 79

FOOD & DRINK | kitchen backstories

Kitchen Backstories

You got me at Bergamot.

epending on who you are, the word ‘bergamot’ is likely to elicit different associations. If you’re a tea-lover, maybe it’s the delicate aroma of Earl Grey tea. If you’re into perfume, perhaps it’s the warm citrus groves of Calabria. If you were around in mid-1980s Thailand—it’s probably the popular antihair-fall shampoo. It was during an unsuspecting jaunt down the Thai herbal products aisle that these disparate associations conjoined in my mind—and subsequently blew it. A bottle claiming to be ‘Bergamot Herbal Shampoo’ stared at me from the shelf, brandishing a photo of what was unmistakably a kaffir lime. Wait a minute; I thought: bergamot is kaffir lime? The Earl Grey tea I’ve enjoyed my entire adult life is, in fact, some form of kaffir lime tea? A child of the ‘80s, I vaguely recalled that there had been some shampoo called Bergamot—but I’d had no idea of its connection to the misshapen Thai lime until now. Having also recently met a Calabrese producer of Bergamot, I was aware of its use in perfumery—but certainly didn’t recall that its aroma had any similarity to that of our home-grown makrut. My mind boggled—and a wild citrus chase began.

Rosalind Yunibandhu is Founder & Managing Director of Arcadia Fine Foods. As a lover of both food and culture, she believes that food offers us much more than just a means of sustenance; to her, it’s also a vehicle through which we can tell the unique stories of the land, people and traditions from which it is borne. FB/IG: @arcadiafinefoods 80 | JAN/ FEB 2019

Bergamot, or citrus bergamia, typically refers to the bergamot orange—a bitter, inedible citrus fruit that is, confusingly, rather more yellow in colour than it is orange. The name bergamot derives from the Turkish ‘beg-armudi’ which means ‘The Prince’s Pear’ – a nod to its slight resemblance to a pear, and its use as a perfume in royal courts of old. A hybrid of sour orange (citrus aurantium) and lemon (citrus medica), over 80% of its total production is grown in Reggio, Calabria, in Southern Italy, where its skin is cold-pressed for its oils, flavours and scents. Like many citrus species, Bergamot is believed to have originated in the tropical climes of Southeast Asia thousands of years ago, and spread to the West along ancient land and sea routes – starting its new life in Southern Italy a few centuries ago. Kaffir Lime, meanwhile, is citrus hystrix, also commonly known as makrut. It’s a small, green, knobbly citrus fruit native to tropical Southeast Asia and southern China, whose fruit and leaves are used in Southeast Asian cuisine (not least, the national favourite, tom yum goong). In traditional Thai medicine, it’s well-known as an effective blood purifier, an antioxidant with cancer-preventing properties—and is also found in herbal compresses and formulas for the scalp, hair and skin (aha!). So, aside from sharing their millennia-old ancestral home in Southeast Asia, what do Bergamot and kaffir lime have in common? Not much, it seems. My exasperated attempts to find a connection came to an end on a language website, of all places: ‘Thai people often mistakenly call kaffir lime, or makrut, ‘Bergamot’—a similar, but essentially different, citrus fruit. Indeed, it is not uncommon to see ‘Bergamot’ shampoo bottle labels carrying pictures of the kaffir lime. This is likely due to the translation of Bergamot as makrut in Thai dictionaries.’ (True, try Googling it). Mystery solved, but, clearly, confusion shall continue. bangkok101.com

chew on this | FOOD & DRINK

A Moveable Feast Exploring the many foods, foreign neighbourhoods and exotic flavours of Bangkok.

he local girl I was seeing refused my testicles. As someone raised in these parts, I was confident she would go for them, after all, she had tried all variates of offal and had no trouble with frogs, bugs or eating rat in northern Thailand. But she drew the line at my gonads. After living in Bangkok for near on a year, it has become clear to me that not all Thai food is created equal. For tips on how to dine in the city, I turned to local chefs and together we rattled through numerous street vendors and hidden, hole-in-the-wall joints. I’d heard this is where true and authentic culinary Bangkok resided, so dug deep into the underbelly of the city’s food culture, unveiling an astounding selection of fried, cooked, barbecued and raw produce; offal delicacies, insects, omelettes, salads, soups and green curries. I have discovered that Bangkok, like most cosmopolitan cities of its size, has a large number of foreign communities—Chinatown, Little India, Japanese and Korean neighbourhoods, and various Western enclaves. In the Arab and African quarter, I stepped back into sticky Amman, revealing an endless stream of vendors, walking through clouds of smoke from fruity vapors and bubbling shisha. At Nefertiti

David J. Constable is a British writer currently residing in Bangkok, where he is the Editor of Bangkok 101 and the Managing Editor of Talisman Media. He has written for a wide range of magazines and newspapers, including Condé Nast Traveller, Tatler, Jamie Oliver magazine and Fine Dining Lovers. He is currently working on his first book, a collection of travel assignments. www.davidjconstable.com bangkok101.com

Kebab House I ate a lamb sheesh kebab—lamb being a rarity in Thailand—of wonderful, succulent fatty clumps of lamb all wrapped up inside of a warm pita; however, it was at Nasir Al-Masri where my balls were refused. I demonstrated my thoughtfulness by rolling one of my sheep testis across the table to my date, only for it to be pushed right back. I have entered the dingy enclave that is Khlong Toei Market, and taken midnight strolls through the foul-smelling alleys, studying the hanging hooks of bloodied meats and the sloshing buckets of water that spill over with agitated fish and bullfrogs. I have watched as the frogs are hand-picked and then, while alive, removed of their skin and tossed to the side, naked and gasping, ready for consumption later on. I have eaten fistfuls of bamboo larvae, called rot duan, and inspected up close the glistening vendor trays with their oil-laced crispy carapaces of different bugs: ants, beetles, crickets, grasshoppers, grubs, and even scorpions. These moveable feasts on their roaming carts are dotted around the city, many vendors taking their wares to the popular backpacking neighbourhood of Khao San Road and flogging deepfried creepy-crawlies to tourists on drunken dares. Out in Chatuchak at Beer Hima, I dived headfirst into killer King Crabs, slurped through bowls of fragrant pad hoy gab kao—stir-fried clams with basil—and drank Sprite mixed with lobster blood because, well, that seemed to be what people around me were doing. And, in Sathorn, near home, I must have tried every single street food option available, inlcuding Korean and Indian; discovering that there really is nothing like a fortifying, steaming bowl of tom kha kai—Thai coconut milk soup with chicken—washed down with a bottle of cold Leo. Staff now treat me like a regular, meaning a few un-ordered plates arrive as treats, which is just fine by me. JAN/ FEB 2019 | 81

FOOD & DRINK | eat like nym

Ma Rad Na Yod Pak

A gem of a noodle restaurant in the Ratchawat market of Bangkok.

he Ratchawat area is popular among locals for its wide range of authentic street food and traditional delicacies. Nestling among the myriad food offerings is a gem that shouldn’t be missed. It’s called Ma Rad Na Yord Pak—which is Thai for Ma’s Fried Noodles with Vegetables and gravy. In the best of Thai traditions, it was my mother who first introduced me to this stall—she is the undisputed queen of secret food addresses. Nothing can quite compare to noodles that are fried over a charcoal stove. The tangy aroma of noodles and the smoke from the flames beneath them, create an alchemy of flavours that I find hard to resist. Though the shop is known for its Rad Na, it is also renowned for its delicious Pad Si Ew, noodles fried in dark soy sauce. The secret weapon that makes these dishes such killer favourites is the quality of the Chinese broccoli (‘Kana’ in Thai). Chefs use the leaves and the stems, cooking to a satisfying balance of crunchy tenderness. As to the meat, imagine the most succulent pork marinated to a velvety tenderness in a secret sauce, and you’ll begin to comprehend just how mouthwatering this dish is. You can choose your noodles—there is a choice between narrow, flat and vermicelli style. I prefer the large flat noodles known in Thai as ‘Sen Yai’. The key to Our roving roadside gourmand Nym knows her local grub insideout and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel. Follow Nym on IG: nymster

82 | JAN/ FEB 2019

a great Pad Si Ew is that the noodles should be soft and wet, but not oily. In the case of Rad Na, all the noodle styles are available plus a crunchy version where the noodles are deep-fried. This version is known as ‘mee krop’ and is my absolute favourite. The gravy is from a long-cooked pork rib stock that gives a naturally sweet taste to the gravy, mixed with fermented soya beans and seasoned to harmonise the taste before adding kana and marinated pork meats, served separately, so you can dip your noodles into the sauce and soften to your liking. It’s an exciting blend of texture and flavour, combined with the earthy pleasure of food cooked over real charcoal. Over the three generations or more than 60 years, since Ma Rad Na Yod Pak first opened, this little stall has expanded its menu to include curry over rice and ‘Khao Tom Pla’, which is boiled rice soup with fish. There are even some fancy soda drinks with a variety of flavours for those with a sweet tooth. One thing that hasn’t changed, however, is the traditional family-style hospitality that greets every customer. You are welcomed with the warmth of a returning friend, rather than the cold professionalism that is sometimes extended to customers in more polished establishments. Moreover, don’t forget the atmosphere. You are in the open air. Also, you’re sitting out in the street with all the colours and movements of Bangkok swirling around you. It’s busy but not frenetic. A perfect local experience. Address: Ma Rad Na Yod Pak is located near Ratchawat intersection on Nakhornchaisri Rd. Open: Mon-Fri, 10.30am-2pm and 5pm-00:30am; Sat-Sun, 5pm-00.30am. Prices vary between 65-105 Baht. bangkok101.com

bitchin’ in the kitchen | FOOD & DRINK

Virtual Realities: Good enough to click?

he relationship between chef and food critic has always been a tricky one. Since the advent of social media, the food blogger, influencer, and KOL (Key Opinion Leader) have made things downright explosive; with chefs at the mercy of critiques that have been captured and captioned on social media. Any seasoned chef will fondly recall the glory days of fine dining reviews, where visiting inspectors either dined undercover or were infamously recognisable. The chef and team were stuck in an excruciating hellon-earth waiting for the papers to come out, at a time when people actually read them en masse. Would the make-or-break review be glowing or damning? Worse still, what if there was no review at all? Now, chefs receive live updates on what their diners are experiencing as it happens. The sad truth is that I’ve often witnessed chefs and F&B managers checking their phones during service, in search of immediate approval. Chefs rightly gripe that many so-called food reviewers couldn’t differentiate foie gras from their face, but the power of social media today far outstrips that of print in its heyday, potentially reaching thousands within seconds.

An Australian-born entrepreneur with Thai roots, Samantha Proyrungtong is the founder of Bangkokfoodies.com and Bangkok Foodies OFFICIAL Facebook community.She also runs her own marketing consulting agency and has become a well-known voice in the Bangkok culinary scene. bangkok101.com

Chefs are a passionate and impulsive bunch by nature, but it never looks good for one to turn publicly on some pseudo-blogger like “@TastyGirl89”, who thought the chef’s parmesan mousse arancini rice balls with air-dried basil were too salty and cold. Never mind that @TastyGirl89 had dumped the artisanal salt flakes on top of herself, or killed five minutes taking pictures from every angle brandishing a compact-but-blinding portable spotlight—guilty as charged! Still, chefs forget that social media is a source of valuable content, digital gold for any establishment. From the restaurant’s point of view, positive reviews with artful (and perfectly lit) pictures cost nothing and can have more impact than any advertising money could buy. But not everyone wants to play the social media publicity game. Michel Roux, co-founder of the Michelin three-star Waterside Inn in Bray in the UK was bold enough to place a sign at the door that reads “No photos, please” yet it’s pretty unlikely that any chef in this part of the world will risk vexing snap-happy diners, or forego the free exposure. It’s a double edged-knife conundrum, damned if you do or damned if you don’t. I know of at least one case where a talented chef was recruited by a high-profile hotel, only to be dropped unceremoniously months later, because his delicious meals were deemed un-Instagrammable. Indeed, many young-gun chefs have taken it in their stride, creating extravagantly photogenic dishes that are just waiting to go viral. It’s a sure-fire way to attract new customers and influencers, giving a real boost to business. The only problem with the aesthetic obsession on social media is the look of a dish may take precedence over quality and taste, and that is really at the heart of the matter. JAN/ FEB 2019 | 83

FOOD & DRINK | review

Gaja Korean Gastrobar The other KFC: Korean Fried Chicken in the heart of Sathorn.

ried chicken is South Korea’s most loved dish. Recently, it has been on an international journey of sorts, showing the world that the simple dunk-and-fry treatment is no longer acceptable. Chicken drumsticks and buffalo wings have been tossed aside for something greater and the likes of David Chang have helped in promoting the Korean variety, even dedicating an entire episode of his Ugly Delicious series to fried chicken. Different versions have come out of different cultures around the world, but it’s yangnyeom dak (Korean fried chicken) that’s moving ahead of the pack and establishing fried chicken as the go-to choice for ravenous, flesh-chomping wing enthusiasts. Fried chicken is also 84 | JAN/ FEB 2019

a popular street food staple in Bangkok. There are, however, few local vendors who take an approach to frying chicken quite so seriously as Gaja Korean Gastrobar. Occupying the position of both chef and coffee roaster, Kim Taehyung opened Gaja with his wife in April last year and set about introducing the city to GaBeans from Seoul and Korean Fried Chicken. They roast their own beans and cook everything in-house. Over time, they began to serve more coffee varieties along with an extensive list of cocktails, and began to add other Korean favourites to their kitchen repertoire, such as Black Jjimdak (B420) and Kimchi Fried Rice (B220), but it’s chicken that’s king. New marinates were added—hot-sweet, honey-garlic, black soy—and in my

opinion, they now serve the best wings in the city. Patriotic zeal might compel you to stand steadily behind Thai wings, the deep-fried street staple of millions, but get your chops around half-a-dozen Spicy Gaja Red Wings, and I’m convinced you’ll change your mind. Choose from either small (x5 B155), medium (x10 B285) or large (x15 B415) servings and discover unfailingly juicy chicken, succulent on the inside and crunchy outside, glazed with one of several delicious house sauces. The trick, I’m told, is to use fresh chickens, chilled overnight to decrease their moisture and then dunk them in thin batter before sizzling in a deep-frier of canola oil to form a light crust. Then—and here’s the important part—plunge into a second frier for a second time, one containing some of the dark, leftover oil from the previous days fry, in order to create a more aggressive crisp crust, one that maintains full succulent crunchiness, even when marinated or dipped into sauces. The idea of presenting Korean flavours to a Thai crowd who already have such a steadfast dedication to street chicken is brave, but when it’s this good, it’s generous too. So go seek them out; order GaBeans coffee or a can of Peach Tok Tok, then get ready to pick, pull and tear apart some of the best chicken wings you’re ever likely to experience. by David J. Constable

Gaja Korean Gastrobar Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra Soi 4 Open: Mon-Sat, 10am-11pm Tel: 097 093 9992 www.facebook.com/gajagabeans

bangkok101.com

FOOD & DRINK | review

Le Du

A combination of artistry mixed with an understanding of the seasons.

he most exciting thing that I ate at this newly-anointed Michelin-starred restaurant is the simplest: a river prawn with pork belly jam. A new take on kao khluk kapi, it is authentically Thai, with generous quantities of stickysweet piggy jam and a noticeable nose tingle from the pungent shrimp paste. This is no-messing brilliance. Le Du is located in a Soi of affluent, common-flanking charm between Silom and Sathorn. It has none of the creamy linen napery evident in other so-called fine dining institutions; the interior here is more industrial design than French fabrics: bare bricks, filament lightbulbs and ants on the menu. Thai food has been gaining purchase for some time, and I don’t mean the clichéd staples of pad Thai and som tam, packaged and presented in a swanky setting, but widening appreciation of its versatility and regional brilliance. Le Du though is taking things further; it’s a green curry-free zone with food wandering restlessly from north to

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south. It is a deliriously fearsome bash of fire and sour and salt and smoke; of the high ethereal waft of Thai basil and lemongrass, with mint and coconut creams lending soothing depths where needed. But then, just as quickly, your palate can be attacked by pungent fish sauces and mod dang—the eggs of red ants. Chef Thitid ‘Ton’ Tassanakajohn and business partner Rungroj ‘Tao’ Ingudananda opened the restaurant in 2013, naming it after a Thai word meaning “seasons”. They set about using the seasons to influence menus, implementing where possible regional ingredients. Chef Ton’s international kitchen experience—he trained at the Culinary Institute of America and worked at The Modern and Eleven Madison Park in New York—lends an undeniably old-school French influence to dishes; however, core ingredients remain rooted in the Thai kitchen. Menus do indeed move with the seasons and dance effortlessly across regions, incorporating the

likes of local sea bass, organic rice and 30-day beef with dried longan fruit. There is a choice of either 4-course (B2,290) or 6-course (B3,590) tasting menus; each consisting of three plates, so 4 becomes 12 and 6 becomes 18; a very Thai approach to dining. With local ingredients as the backbone to dishes, recipes are plated to demonstrate the chef’s travels and experiences. Everything is the flavour of Technicolour, all hot and sour loveliness of a sort, which would make a heavy cold throw up its hands and shout, “I give up!” Certain ingredients demonstrate better than others Chef Ton’s forward-thinking, and his interest and education in wine means that Le Du has one of the most impressive and expansive wine lists in the city. by David J. Constable

Le Du

399/3 Silom Soi 7 Open: Mon-Sat, 6pm-10:30pm Tel: 092 919 9969 www.ledubkk.com bangkok101.com

review | FOOD & DRINK

Embassy Room at Park Hyatt Explore modern European dining and the stories behind each creation.

oothing white tablecloths are set against a beige interior; and tasteful art adorn the walls and ceiling of Embassy Room at the Park Hyatt. A spacious open kitchen means diners can observe the chefs in their busy domain as courses leave the pass. An amuse bouche of delicate egg espuma, firm green peas, asparagus and a sharp, earthy compté cheese, with generously grated black truffles is the perfect start. A touch of dark rounded chicken jus and spongy morels completed the dish. The contrast between the light espuma and condensed chicken juice summoned my appetite for the rest of the Tasting Menu (B2,450+B1,200 for wine pairing) by Executive Chef Franck Detrait and Chef de Cuisine Pierre Tavernier. bangkok101.com

Octopus was the evening’s highlight, boasting an improvised Spanish taste with mild quince and capsicum sauce, topped off with quinoa, corn and coriander, drizzles of explosive chimichurri oil and a slice of lime. Paired with a glass of Daniel Dampt & Fils Chablis 2015, this heightened the quince notes in the dulce sauce. The preparation of the dish was respectful to the octopus and cleverly presented a range of textures; from tender to crispy to caramelised. All was lifted to new levels upon the advice of squeezing lime juice on one half and not the other in order to compare. A course of Alaskan king crab laid on a bed of pomme purée, sided with oven roasted leek, salmon roe, and dill, was coupled with a glass of Edition Bee “Beetle” Riesling Trocken 2017.

The sweet meat was easily pulled apart with a light push of the fork, melting on the tongue with the silky, wholesome mashed potato. Tangy vinaigrette, although just a few drops, magnified the pale leeks alongside a fruity, slightly citrusy, glass of Riesling. Seared duck foie gras with a perfect pink centre and evenly browned exterior competed with the aromatically smoked celeriac purée and fragrant poached pear, dense beetroot, awe-inspiring sangria reduction and buttered toast stick. The subtle Te Mata Estate Chardonnay 2015 elevated the course by expressing an aftertaste with acidic backbone. For the main, a medium-rare Australian lamb chop with thyme and green harissa sauce, loaded with spices, tasted stronger than its nose and was accompanied by a bowl of polenta, an Italian classic splashed with the remaining lamb jus; paired with Cantina di Negrar Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2015—a superb choice. Finally, the anticipated 85% Valrhona chocolate ganache with fleur de sel, Chiang Mai coffee and intense cocoa sorbet. The bittersweetness and saltiness enhanced by a lush Port wine, Quinta Do Portal Porto Portal Pink. Overall, the chefs delivered a genius approach to define new European flavour profiles, blending fresh signature ingredients from different regions. by Fha Kanch

Embassy Room

Park Hyatt Bangkok, 9F, 88 Witthayu Rd. Open: Daily, 6am-10:30am, 12pm-2pm, 6pm-10pm Tel: 02 012 1234 www.hyatt.com/en-US/hotel/thailand/ park-hyatt-bangkok/bkkph/dining JAN/ FEB 2019 | 87

FOOD & DRINK | review

Kim Leng

A small, family-run operation that I should be hiding from you all.

ere’s a treat for you. A small, family-run restaurant located close to Democracy Monument. It isn’t anywhere shiny or new, and it’s not attention-grabbing or bathed in the media spotlight, so you’re not going to find any bloggers or city hipsters discussing it online. They don’t even have a website or Facebook—or air-conditioning! This is that rare kind of restaurant that delivers way more than you expect. Kim Leng is all about the good: food at a reasonable price, eaten in the company of happy people; all laughing, toasting, revelling in homestyle cooking. At the front of the shop, precooked creations satisfy lunchers and those on a schedule, while at the back, scruffy tables and plastic stools hardly entice diners to stay and make themselves comfortable, but there is little option, so you plonk your butt down and order from a somewhat limited menu. What’s on offer, however, is authentic and fire-driven; dishes and flavours of central Thailand, cooked fresh and without vanity.

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Both yam and som tam contain the kind of clean, refreshing flavours that have made them such a Thai table staple, and yam þlah dùk foo, a mixture of catfish deep-fried until crispy with strands of tart, green mango, is fit for sharing; a beautiful plate that perfectly reflects all that is expansive in the Thai flavour wheel. The fish is only lightly deep-fried to create an airy nest and then placed alongside shredded mango, red chillies and a generous scattering of salty peanuts. Those wanting more punch can go for yum tua pu—Thai Winged Bean Salad—with shrimp and spice, and there’s a really special mee krob, a favoured dish of Thai crispy vermicelli that has a prominent, overriding sweetness. I’m advised to drench fistfuls of squeezed limes to counter the sweetness and bring more acidity to the dish, but on a recent visit, follow suit of the neighbouring table and substitute fish sauce and sugar with soy sauce, for an overall darker, stickier, and more umami-laden profile. They also make these moreish hor mok

cakes, steamed fish with curry. Everything is reasonably priced with some options not priced at all, but expect to pay between B50 and B150 per dish. Business is doing just fine here, but it’s a small place and things are changing fast in Bangkok. Restaurants here are all about chasing the imaginary market of wealthy tourists and bonus boys. Many are forgetting what’s really important, and it’s not even the food, but the customer, the local, your neighbours and your business year-round. This place will disappear if I don’t write about it. Thai food is about simplicity, balance, flavour; it’s about community and making a connection with the person or persons you’re sharing it with. Kim Leng knows this, and now I’m telling you about it. by David J. Constable

Kim Leng

158-160 Tanao Rd, (behind the Government Saving Bank, Ratchadamnoen Branch) Tel: 02 622 2062 Open: Mon-Sat, 10am-7:30pm bangkok101.com

review | FOOD & DRINK

Front Room

A clean, bright, clever cuisine that’s never been seen before in Thailand.

angkok is moving fast. New hotels. New restaurants. New chefs. It’s not so much about replacing the old, but existing alongside it; a burgeoning, bulging swell of newness. Some people are not so much new, they’re just back; returning from foreign sojourns to a city transformed. Lured away long ago— from San Francisco and Copenhagen, respectively—Pim Techamuanvivit and Rungthiwa Chummongkhon now front two of the most exciting restaurants in Bangkok. Chef Pim at Nahm was the summer’s big news, and now the sparkly Waldorf Astoria has opened with Front Room restaurant, operated by Chef Rungthiwa—‘Fae’ to her friends. After 12 years abroad, working at the likes of three-starred restaurants La Belle Epoque and Geranium, and in one of the world’s most progressive kitchens, Noma, Chef Fae has undertaken perhaps bangkok101.com

her most significant challenge to date. This isn’t training or an international stage; at Front Room, her reputation is on the line. It isn’t just the success of the northern table that’s made Scandinavia such a sought after culinary destination; it’s the failure of everyone else to match it. You can’t disengage food from the culture it comes from just like you can’t shift direction from the food you grew up with; it’s genetic code. What Chef Fae has brought here is an understanding of the clever interplay between Thai and Scandinavian ingredients—80% is locally sourced—stretching, pulling and manipulating ingredients alongside presentational techniques from northern Europe. Dinner is a Set Menu of either 7 or 10-course (B2,700/B3,300), although there is also a more honed à la carte menu boasting poetic sounding creations such as

“Unami of the Sea,” “The Gold from Mushroom” and the less tender, “Like a Sausage”. To get a feel of what promises to be a brand new cuisine for Thailand, I opted for the 10-course, with plates a relentless litany of everything that one would nowadays call “fusion” food. Every dish was a new and novel shape and size, each containing minute comestibles that competed for prettiness, some even bordering on brilliant. Velkommen is a Norwegian word for “welcome” and opens the menu with several small bites, all typically reflective of the Nordic Lab. Service was immaculate. The staff marvellously disciplined, never pushy or intrusive, and dishes came and went with such timing that I never felt hurried, or had to wait a moment longer than was precisely right to settle one course and prepare for the next. The food was history and earth, sea and home, with an atmosphere of quiet hurdy-gurdy burbling and the sort of furry drunkenness you find in hotel restaurants. The heritage of smorgasbord— help-yourself sideboard sandwiches—can evolve into the torture of relentless plates of foam and fungi, but Chef Fae adapts, incorporating black rice, lemongrass and produce from the Royal Project; all of the tastes and flavours of the Thai kitchen, reworked. by David J. Constable

Front Room

Waldorf Astoria Bangkok, 151 Ratchadamri Tel: 02 035 8108 Open: daily, 5:30pm-10:30pm www.waldorfbangkok.waldorfastoria.com JAN/ FEB 2019 | 89

FOOD & DRINK | meal deals

Travel back to classic New York with Stylish Cocktails

Waldorf Astoria, 151 Ratchadamri Rd. | Tel: 02 846 8888 www.waldorfastoria3.hilton.com/en/hotels/thailand/waldorf-astoria-bangkok The Loft takes guests to an exotic, glamorous, New York-inspired bar on the hotel’s level 56. Taking inspiration from the original 1935 Waldorf Astoria Bar Book, Head Bartender Michele Montauti and his team have crafted artisanal spirits and forgotten cocktails to the modern palate using an extensive collection of house-made ingredients, accompanied by gourmet bar bites. Signature cocktails start from B420++. Extensive wine and Champagne list is also on offer. Call 02 846 8888 or visit waldorfbangkok.waldorfastoria.com

Seafood Weekend BBQ at Latest Recipe

Le Méridien Suvarnabhumi, 789 Moo 14, Bangna-Trad Rd. Tel: 02 118 7777 | www.leméridien.com Don’t miss the buffet and barbecue evenings every Friday and Saturday, featuring exclusive seafood and meat cuts such as river prawns, squid, Norwegian salmon, sea bass, Australian lamb and beef, plus other barbecue specials from the charcoal grill. Savour five kinds of oysters, seafood on ice with tiger prawns and New Zealand mussels, sushi, sashimi, salads, cold cuts, cheeses and plenty of mouthwatering dishes cooked live from our show kitchen. B1,490 net per person including free flow soft drinks, coffee and tea.

Oysters with Altitude

CRU Champagne Bar, Centara Grand at CentralWorld, 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 100 1234 | www.champagnecru.com CRU Champagne Bar invite guests to sample the silky, velvety, luxury taste of first-class oysters. Those with a penchant for the finer things in life will know nothing goes better with a glass of Champagne than fresh, premium oysters; and, being the highest alfresco Champagne bar in the world, CRU is pleased to announce that this brand new oyster menu can be enjoyed every night of the week from the rooftop. A set of six oysters is priced at just B799++ with a glass of Champagne G.H. Mumm Grand Cordon Brut.

Saturday, “From the Bay”

Red Oven, SO Sofitel Bangkok, 2 North Sathon Rd. Tel: 02 624 0000 | www.so-sofitel-bangkok.com Calling seafood lovers to Red Oven! Every Saturday be hooked by the fantastic array of seafood delicacies, serving you the freshest catches "From The Bay" along with a mouthwatering choice of dips, sizzling sauces, plus delicious vinos to complete the meal. Highlights include Oysters, Seafood BBQ, River Prawns and Rock Lobsters. Make your Saturday a big feast day. From B1,800++ per person with non-alcoholic beverages and B2,500++ per person with our epic beverages package. Available every Saturday, 12:00-3:30pm.

A Celebration of Love

The Okura Prestige Bangkok, 57 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 687 9000 | www.okurabangkok.com Love is in the air at The Okura Prestige Bangkok’s Michelin-starred restaurant Elements this Valentine’s Day with a fantastic 6-course romantic candlelit dinner featuring special dishes for him and her. The intimate feast begins with a glass of Champagne and a selection of aperitif bites followed by courses such as hamachi or Japanese amberjack with dashi, ponzu and shiso leaf. The Valentine’s Day Dinner is served on 14 February 2019, 6pm-10:30pm priced at B4,900++ per person, including a glass of Champagne. 90 | JAN/ FEB 2019

bangkok101.com

FOOD & DRINK | breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino

FINE DINING WATER TO ENHANCE GREAT FOOD ACQUA PANNA AND S.PELLEGRINO. THE FINE DINING WATERS. w w w.finedininglovers.com Distributed by Global Food Products Co., Ltd. Tel. +66 26831751

Breaking Bread

with Chumpol Jangprai

A popular local chef creating Michelin-worthy Royal Thai cuisine for a contemporary crowd.

he recently awarded Michelin-star to R.HAAN is just one accolade in a long history of culinary achievements for Chef Chumpol Jangprai. A true ambassador of Thai cuisine, he is well-known in the Bangkok dining scene and a familiar face on television having starred in Golden Hand Chef and Iron Chef Thailand. A Michelin-star though is nothing to be sniffed at, and this might well be the crowning glory in a long and distinguished career for Chef

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Chumpol. “I’m not finished yet,” he tells me, “the future is bright, and there’s still much to be achieved. This award though is not for me, it’s for the entire team. But now the real work begins.” Having risen through the ranks of the much-lauded Blue Elephant Group, Chef Chumpol was only 19 years old when he left Thailand and moved to Copenhagen to front the restaurant’s overseas outpost. Not long after, he left Denmark for Belgium, and became Executive Chef

of the Blue Elephant in Brussels. In 2000, he moved further up the ranks, taking on the position of Corporate Chef for the entire Blue Elephant Worldwide Group. Returning to Thailand in 2002, he opened the prestigious Blue Elephant Cooking School in Phuket with Chef Nooror Somany Steppe, alongside his role as Executive Chef. At the same time, he also took on the position of Culinary Director for the Anantara Group, controlling quality and standards of the gastronomic bangkok101.com

breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino | FOOD & DRINK

offering across all of the restaurants within the Thai hotel group. Establishing himself as a chef rooted in the Thai culinary traditions, but free and willingly to travel and promote national recipes, it wasn’t long before international festivals and food congresses were inviting Chef Chumpol to speak and present; including presentations at Identità Milano and Asian Masters in Singapore. He was made a member of the Thai government’s national skill standard in Thai cuisine committee, and a member of the World Association of Chef’s Society— an organisation of over 20 million chefs from over 80 countries. Having opened R.HAAN in May last year—the name means “food” in Thai—with the intention of showcasing true and authentic Royal Thai recipes to the public, Chef Chumpol set about researching historical recipes in order to create a series of seasonal, multicourse samrub (a set of shared dishes), each made up of 18 different items. “We want people to sample a variety of dishes with different tastes made from carefully selected seasonal ingredients,” he said. “Pairing bangkok101.com

different items in one samrub is local wisdom. I realise the need for a skilled chef who will present Thai food to the world, so now I run MSC Thai Cooking School, teaching cooking skills to meet international standards.” The menus at R.HAAN are expressive of the seasons, dancing across regions and incorporating all that is unique about Thai cuisine; taking inspiration not only from the tried-and-tested staples, but injecting new life into forgotten recipes and under-used ingredients. “Different flavours don’t only compliment each other, they cater to family members of different ages too. I want to bring joy and happiness to diners,” he says. Recently, the restaurant left behind its Rainy Season menu and moved into Winter with expressive courses covering the full flavourwheel of Thai cuisine; zipping across the palate from salty to bitter to sour to sweet to woah! That’s hot! A liberal hand is anything but light on spicing, with Chef Chumpol and his team replicating historical recipes as best they can, right down to the final detail; with seasoning key. The likes of tom yum goong have a more theatrical presentation with

many other recipes having also been modernised for the wow factor. Mostly though, it’s a very traditional Thai way of cooking and eating, with plates and bowls arriving at once, a scattering of dishes across the table, ready to be attacked. “The fertility of the land in Thailand has always had a strong bond to the people. The Thai proverb: ‘There is fish in the water and rice in the fields’, has its origins in the royal description of the Kingdom of Thailand. This old saying thus speaks to the abundance of fish and rice as well as the cultivation and harvest of all kinds of produce; herbs and spices that has given birth to the concept and cuisine of R.HAAN.” It’s the attention to detail that’s of the utmost importance, as he explains, “The plates are specially made—all traditional tableware once used in the Royal Palace during the Rattanakosin era—and every single ingredient is curated to suit the specific menu it appears on. I strive to give the diner a full and enhanced dining experience.” interview by David J. Constable www.r-haan.com JAN/ FEB 2019 | 93

FOOD & DRINK | listings

CHINESE

J’Aime by Jean-Michel Lorain

INDIAN

Michelin-starred restaurant living up to lofty expectations, even rising above, thanks to the vibrancy in taste and colour of the dishes. You’ll no doubt find yourself thinking about certain menu items the next day. U Sathorn Bangkok 105, 105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli Tel: 02 119 4899 Bai Yun Indus Open daily: 12pm-2:30pm 6pm-10:30pm Bai Yun Indus The Chinese outlet with the best www.jaime-bangkok.com An ambitious venture in modern Indian view in town, and one of the cuisine, featuring a lighter menu that highest representatives of Pearl Le Boeuf still delivers the punch people expect, Delta cuisine on the planet, offers The concept here is simple: high- while dialling down the stodge and high-quality ingredients you can quality steak, liberally doused with a oiliness; a riff on Indian-Chinese—or really savour. unique pea-green sauce, paired with Himalayan—combinations. 59F, Banyan Tree Bangkok an unlimited supply of crispy pommes 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. frites and fresh salad. French to the Tel: 02 258 4900 Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, core. Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm 6pm-midnight GF, Marriott Executive Apartments www.indusbangkok.com Mayfair, 60 Soi Langsuan Tel: 02 672 12 30 Pagoda Chinese Open daily: 11:30am-11pm Restaurant Gaggan This upscale venue serves traditional www.leboeufgroup.com A must-visit for foodies, this Cantonese cuisine in a spacious progressive, molecular Indian cuisine and contemporary setting. The resto has been voted number one menu focuses on healthy dishes, for four consecutive years—2015 GERMAN while ensuring that the flavours and to 2018—on the Asia’s 50 Best authenticity are retained. If you’re Restaurants list, and now it has 2 visiting, then well worth a visit. Michelin stars to its name. Try one 4F, Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park Hotel of the recommended tasting menus. 199 Sukhumvit Soi 22 68/1 Soi Langsuan Tel: 02 059 5999 Tel: 02 652 1700 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm Open daily: 6pm-11pm 6pm-10pm www.eatatgaggan.com www.marriott.com Sühring

FRENCH La Vie

French creative cuisine takes centre stage at this elegant restaurant on the 11th floor of VIE Hotel Bangkok. The fine dining venue aims to leverage the hotel’s growing reputation as a top local culinary destination. 11F, VIE Hotel Bangkok Phaya Thai Rd. Tel: 02 309 3939 Open daily: 6:30pm-10:30pm, Lunch, Mon-Sat, noon-3pm www.viehotelbangkok.com 94 | JAN/ FEB 2019

Sühring

German gastronomy comes alive using modern techniques and high-quality ingredients, while still following traditional flavour profiles. The kitchen of this 2 Michelinstarred restaurant is helmed by a pair of identical twin chefs (Thomas and Mathias), and the results are like nothing you’ll see or taste anywhere else. 10 Yen Akat Soi 3 Tel: 02 287 1799 Open daily: 6pm-12am www.restaurantsuhring.com

INTERNATIONAL Bunker

From the outside this three-storey concrete building may look rustic and unfinished; inside however you’ll find contemporary American cuisine with a heavy New York influence being served up. The topnotch ingredients and excellence in execution are really what mark the dishes here. 118/2, Soi Suksa (Sathorn Soi 12) Tel: 02 234 7749 Open daily: 6pm-midnight www.bunkerbkk.com bangkok101.com

listings | FOOD & DRINK

The Dining Room at The House on Sathorn

consistently ranked among the top restaurants in Asia and serves quite possibly the best steak in town. Trust us! Soi Pipat 2, Silom Rd. Tel: 02 238 0931 Open daily: 3pm-1am www.eatmerestaurant.com

morsels on the menu. Try the chef’s special multi-course tasting menu, and prepare to plunge into gastronomic bliss. 28 Sukhumvit Soi 47 Open daily: 5:30pm-midnight Weekend brunch: 11am-3pm Tel: 02 662 4936 www.facebook.com/freebirdbkk

Few restaurant settings in the city rival this charming colonial-era mansion where Turkish native Chef Fatih Tutak keeps things rooted in the Ottoman canon, experimenting with tastes, textures, and temperatures in a 10-course tasting menu. W Bangkok, 106 North Sathorn Rd. Elements Tel: 02 344 4025 This Michelin-starred restaurant Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm expertly fuses Japanese and French www.thehouseonsathorn.com culinary aesthetics, flavours, and precision, in a retro-futuristic space that feels like a home study but has the theatricality of a playhouse. 25F, The Okura Prestige Bangkok 57 Wireless Rd. Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm Nimitr Tel: 02 687 9000 www.okurabangkok.com Nimitr “Oriental Cuisine” inspired by a responsible gourmand chef on the Eat Me Freebird 27th floor of the luxurious 137 Pillars The tagline here is ‘Modern Suites & Residences. This beautiful Australian Cuisine’, which makes Eat Me restaurant has an outstanding setting Run by the always innovative Tim more sense once you sample a and prepares wonderfully fresh plates Butler, this cosy Silom restaurant is few of the astoundingly inventive

Cooking School & Restaurant

Amy Dabbs SINGAPORE

08/01/2017

Jarinya Thanasoonthonkul Bangkok THAILAND

08/01/2017

BANGKOK : 233 South Sathorn Rd., Sathorn Bangkok 10120 Tel : +66 2 673 9353-8, Fax : +66 2 673 9355 cooking.school@blueelephant.com

PHUKET : 96 Krabi Road, Tambon Talad Neua, Phuket 83000 Tel : +66 (076) 354 355-7, Fax : +66 (076) 354 393 phuket@blueelephant.com

www.blueelephant.com bangkok101.com

JAN/ FEB 2019 | 95

FOOD & DRINK | listings with an Oriental leaning. Choose from the likes of Chilli Crab, Szechuan Rock Lobster, Beef Massaman, Scallops and Abalone Sashimi, Teriyaki Pork Belly and a plethora of traditional favourites to tempt every palate for every occasion. 137 Pillars Suites & Residences Bangkok 59/1 Sukhumvit Soi 39 Open: Daily 12pm-3pm, 6pm-10:30pm Tel: 02 079 7000 137pillarsbangkok.com/en/dining/nimitr

fine dining down, but it also boasts a brunch to rival all others—delivering a buffet of luxurious proportions. 24F, Okura Prestige Bangkok, 57 Witthayu Rd. Tel: 02 687 9000 Open daily: noon-10:30pm www.okurabangkok.com

The Penthouse Bar & Grill

With a design concept that conjures up the fictional penthouse abode of a jetsetting adventurer, the open grill kitchen at this stunning restaurant space dishes up succulent steaks and other meaty morsels. It’s also home to a super cool looking whisky room. 34-36F, Park Hyatt Bangkok 88 Wireless Rd. Open daily: 5:30pm-midnight Tel: 02 012 1234 bangkok.park.hyatt.com

Vertigo Too Bar & Restaurant

Neither an open-air rooftop bar nor the kind of jazz den found in smoky brickwalled basements, the al-fresco Vertigo Too deftly toes the line between the two milieus. 60F, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200, Opem daily: 5pm-1am www.banyantree.com

Upstairs at Mikkeller

Tables Grill

Showcasing French cuisine and helmed by Michelin-experienced Chef Hans Zahner, Tables Grill sets the perfect experience of fresh ingredients and flavourful elegance. Tables Grill welcomes guests to try the à la carte menu and 5 or 7-course degustation menu. Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok 494 Rajdamri Rd. Tel: 02 254 6250 Open: Dinner, Mon-Sun 6pm-10pm; Sunday Brunch: 11am-3pm www.tablesgrill.com

Medinii

The Italian inspired restaurant is somewhat tucked away high up at Asoke intersection. Free flow of authentic Pasta & Pizza include soft drink. Easy-to-come directly to Asoke BTS station and Sukhumvit MRT. A hidden standout italian fine dining concept serving dishes with finesse and finely balanced flavour. 35F, The Continent Hotel Bangkok 413 Sukhumvit, Klongtoey Nua Tel: 02 686 7000 Open daily: Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30am2:30pm, Dinner: Everyday 6pm-midnight www.thecontinentdining.com/medinii

La Bottega di Luca

This elegant Italian eatery, overseen by the ever charming Luca Appino, serves over 15 different kinds of pasta and an array of Italian specialties you won’t find on many other menus. 2F, Terrace 49 Building, Sukhumvit Soi 49 Tel: 02 204 1731 Open: Tue-Sun, 11am-3pm, 5pm-11pm, Mon, 5pm-11pm www.labottega.name/restaurant

The second-floor, six table restaurant is simple but effective with an open kitchen and Michelinstar food wowing guests. Expect to be spoilt with a rousing and wide-ranging Tasting Menu, expertly paired with international craft beers. 26 Ekkamai Soi 10, Yaek 2 Tel: 091 713 9034 Open: Wed-Sat, 6pm-10pm www.upstairs-restaurant.com La Scala

ITALIAN Biscotti

Serving up authentic Italian fare since the late ‘90s, this staple on the lunchtime roster for suits and their business partners has grown casual enough to warrant a visit by anyone on any day of the week. Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel Up & Above This elegant 24th floor restaurant has 155 Rajadamri Rd. 96 | JAN/ FEB 2019

Tel: 02 126 8866 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm10:30pm www.siam-bangkok.anantara.com

La Scala

This beuatiful designed fine dining Italian gourmet restaurant specialises in classic artistic, chefstyle cooking, serving up dishes with finesse and finely balanced flavour. The Sukhothai Bangkok 13/3 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 8888 Open daily: Lunch, 12pm-2:30pm, Dinner, 6:30pm-11pm www.sukhothai.com bangkok101.com

listings | FOOD & DRINK

JAPANESE

Kisso

Combining a modern mastery of time-honoured customs in a stylish and convivial setting, this is one of the top places for outstanding Japanese cuisine in Bangkok. 8F, The Westin Grande Sukhumvit Bangkok, 259 Sukhumvit Soi 19 Tel: 02 207 8000 Open daily: 12pm-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.kissojapaneserestaurant.com

Mihara Tofuten Bangkok Celebrity chef Gaggan Anand has partnered with Japan’s Takeshi ‘Goh’ Fukuyama in this tofu-centric restaurant. It’s a place where taste, sensation and theatre all come together perfectly. A myriad of tofus presented almost ritualistically, to which any Japanese connoisseur would bow in appreciation. 159/3 Sathorn Soi 7 Tel: 083 655 4245 Open: Mon-Sat, 2 seatings only, 6pm & 9pm

authentic Spanish specialties, coupled with spectacular city views, this chic, sky-high tapas bar and restaurant reaches new “heights” in several respects. 54F, Centara CentralWorld Bangkok 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Open daily: 4pm-1am Tel: 02 100 6255 www.unomasbangkok.com

STEAK & BURGER The Steakhouse Co.

A new city steak restaurant, located on the vibrant Patpong Soi 2, serves up delectable cuts from Australia, the US, and Argentina. At the stove is Chef Moo, who has extensive experience across many city hotels, and who takes great pride in the ageing, marbling, and hanging of the carefully selected beef produce. A well-stocked bar with an impressive wine list and local craft beers, ensures guests find the perfect tipple to accompany their bovine. The Steakhouse Co. 9/8 Patpong 2 Rd. Open daily: 5pm-3am Tel: 06 109 Steak (78325) www.thesteakhouseco.com

THAI

SPANISH Broken Eggs

An Ekkamai classic (after relocating from Phra Khanong’s W District) serving up tapas-feasts with an impressive wine and cocktail list. Expect freshly prepared dishes, celebrating the food of Galicia. 112/7 Ekkamai Rd. (Sukhumvit Soi 63) 02 047 7811 Open: Tue-Sat 5pm-11.30pm, Sun 12-4pm www.brokeneggsbangkok.com

Uno Mas

With its expansive menu of bangkok101.com

Open daily: Till midnight www.thecontinentdining.com/th/ bangkok-heightz.php

Blue Elaphant

Blue Elephant

A wildly successful brand since it was first established in 1980, this restaurant and cooking school sits in a gorgeous historic mansion. On the menu, Chef Nooror takes a riff on the Thai food of tomorrow, but also shares her heritage with every dish. 233 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 673 9353 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30pm-10:30pm www.blueelephant.com

Bo.Lan

Authentic, but daring, this is one of the top Thai restaurants in all of Asia. With a modus operandi of “essential Thai, delivered with panache,” it’s easy to see why this Michelin-starred restaurant remains so popular year after year. 24 Sukhumvit Soi 53 Tel: 02 260 2962 Open: Tue-Sun, 11:30am-10:30pm www.bolan.co.th

Canvas Bangkok Heightz

Bangkok Heightz

A rooftop sky bar with an authentic Thai concept. This restaurant serves delicious food with a focus on local seafood and Thai cocktails. Meanwhile, views of Bangkok’s downtown cityscape can be enjoyed from the restaurant’s open air-deck. 39F, The Continent Hotel Bangkok 413 Sukhumvit, Klongtoey Nua Tel: 02 686 7000

Serving up artistic Michelin-rated masterpieces on a plate, the visionary kitchen team here use mainly local produce and ingredients, conjuring up unique concoctions that give traditional Thai dishes a definite twist. Try one of the chef’s incredible tasting menus. 113/9-10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 099 614 1158 Open: Tue-Thu, Sun, 6pm-midnight, Fri-Sat, 6pm-12:30am www.canvasbangkok.com JAN/ FEB 2019 | 97

FOOD & DRINK | listings

Le Du

It might sound French but the name Le Du actually derives from the Thai word for ‘season,’ and seasonal Thai ingredients are the focus here in progressive French-influenced dishes that are also rooted in tradition. Chef Thitid ‘Ton’ Tassanakajohn is one of the rising stars of the Bangkok dining scene, earning Le Du a Michelin star. 399/3 Silom Soi 7 Open: Mon-Sat, 6pm-10:30pm Tel: 092 919 9969 www.ledubkk.com

Ruen Urai

Set in the former residence of the herbal medical doctor to King Rama V, Ruen Urai uses herbs and spices with medicinal qualities, while delivering refined Thai fare using the finest fresh ingredients. The Rose Hotel, 118 Surawongse Rd. Tel: 02 266 8268-72 Open daily: noon-11pm www.ruen-urai.com

Sala Rim Naam

A stunning traditional pavilion located across the river from Oriental Mandarin where you will dine and experience Thai culture with all your senses. Classical Thai dance shows starts, every night at 7.30pm. Dress code is required: elegant attire and proper footwear for ladies, long trousers and shirts with close shoes for gentlemen. The Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok 48 Oriental Ave Tel: 02 659 9000 Open daily: 5pm-midnight www.mandarinoriental.com

Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin

With a menu created by superstar Danish chef Henrik Yde-Andersen, 98 | JAN/ FEB 2019

diners at this elegant, Michelinstarred eatery can expect—on any given day or evening visit—an incredible culinary adventure down a road-less-travelled landscape. Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok 991/9 Rama 1 Rd. Open daily: 12pm-3pm, 6pm-midnight Tel: 02 162 9000 www.kempinski.com/bangkok

CAFÉ Dean & Deluca

This New York based brand cleaves to its highbred beginnings with an approachable composite of American comfort food, spiced to local levels with the aid of local ingredients. GF, MahaNakhon Cube, Tel: 02 023 1616 2F, Central Embassy, Tel: 02 160 5956 GF, EmQuartier, Tel: 02 261 0464 1F, Park Ventures Ecoplex Building, 57 Wireless Rd., Tel: 02 108 2200 www.deandeluca.com/thailand

GF, Amaranta Hotel Pracharatbumpen Soi 7 Open: Wed-Mon, 11am-10pm Tel: 02 691 1688 www.amarantahotel.com

VEGETARIAN Broccoli Revolution

This veg-friendly restaurant features a menu full of bright veggie bites that could pull in even the most stubborn carnivore. Now with two locations. 899 Sukhumvit Rd. (at Soi 49) Tel: 02 662 5001 6F, Central Embassy, Tel: 02 160 5788 Facebook: Broccoli Revolution

Simple Natural Kitchen

Not Just Another Cup

This cosy cafe, suitable for early birds, serves a variety of brunch menus, while the drink menu covers everything from coffee to coldpressed juices and infused water. 75/1, Sathorn Soi 10 Tel: 02 635 3464 Open daily: 7am-7pm facebook.com/notjustanothercup

A quaint restaurant featuring a rich vegan menu with local and organic delicacies. With Italian inspiration, the restaurant has a rustic décor and is situated in a small alley away from the bustle of the city. The rich blend of organic spices and ingredients and the welcoming staff attract many vegan lovers looking for a quick brunch. 31 Sukhumvit Garden Tel: 02 662 2510 Open: Daily, 9am-6pm www.simplenaturalkitchen.com

Veganerie Concept

The modern-rustic interior is flooded with natural light, and the fare—from tantalizing dairy-free bakery desserts Sift Bakery Furnished with large floor-to-ceiling to vegan appetisers and main courses—is pretty “natural” as well. windows, and a counter displaying 35/2 Soi Methiniwet (Sukhumvit Soi 24) an assortment of desserts and pastries, diners at this café can enjoy Tel: 02 258 8489 Open: Fri-Wed, 10am-10pm their orders in a spacious upstairs www.facebook.com/veganbakerybangkok and downstairs seating area. bangkok101.com

BREWSKI Bangkok’s Highest & Trendiest Rooftop Craft Beer Bar

Brewski, at the Radisson Blu Plaza Bangkok, is the hippest, trendiest, buzziest bar in town. It is also the highest duplex rooftop craft beer bar in Thailand, with over 100 craft brew varieties from around the world, including many from Thailand, as well as over 18 Craft Beers & Ciders on tap. Guests can enjoy full coverage of international sporting events, projected across numerous multi-screens and spread between Brewski’s unique 29th/30th ﬂoor split-level design. And, being the highest duplex rooftop craft beer bar in Thailand, expect breathtaking views and a glorious panoramic skyline, particularly at nighttime when Bangkok sparkles.

Group seating accommodates up to 160 guests and a state-of-the-art cooling system makes Brewski the perfect spot for large groups, anytime of the day or night, whether you’re hosting a corporate event or just hanging out with colleagues and friends. Executive Chef Nicolas Van Riemsdijk has created an original menu of Thai and International bar snacks to be enjoyed alongside the extensive offering of craft beers. Highlights include “The Brewski Burger” made from wagyu beef served with a sticky tomato marmalade and appropriately served with beer battered fries. Open: daily, 5pm-1am (last orders 00:30am)

29th & 30th Floor, Radisson Blu Plaza Bangkok, 489 Sukhumvit Rd (Soi 27), Klongtoey Nua, Wattana, Bangkok, Thailand 10110 | Tel: +66 (0) 2 302 3333

RadissonBluPlazaBangkok | radissonblubkk | @radissonblubangkok www.radissonblu.com/en/plazahotel-bangkok/bars

Vesper’s "Coca Cola Vase”, part of their new ‘Art Book’ cocktail series.

| NIGHTLIFE

NIGHTLIFE “the art book”: the finale Last month, Vesper (No.27 Asia’s 50 Best Bars 2018) debuted ‘East meets West’, the third edition of their critically-acclaimed ‘Art Book’ cocktail series. This marks the final menu of their journey into the art world before embarking again on a new, groundbreaking concept. In this edition, instead of limiting themselves to the offering of Western Modern Art, the works covered include contemporary artists of the late 20th and early 21st century such as Will Cotton and Damien Hirst. For reservations, contact +66 (0) 2 235 2777 or email Choti@vesperbar.co www.vesperbar.co

from rum to riesling Tropical rum cocktails seem to be the flavour of the moment right now, and that’s precisely what you’ll find at Tropic City, the uber-hip Tiki bar—and one of Thailand’s first tropical cocktail bars—located on Charoen Krung Road (Soi 28). Their new cocktail menu features colourful concoctions, ranging from Chronical Iced Tea—with Appleton Reserve Rum and Albelha Cachaça—and Skywalker—whisky, vodka and “beetroot air”—just the sort of thing to celebrate bringing in the New Year. Cheers! www.tropiccitybkk.com

city’s new natural wine bar A year since opening their doors, Via Maris—who last month upgraded their name to Via Maris Bistro & Natural Wine Bar—has also introduced their new natural wine bar. Via Maris has teamed up with Foodie Collection’s group sommelier, Thanakorn Mankit, who will curate an ever-revolving (and ever-growing) wine list with predominantly natural, organic, and biodynamic leanings—some already well-established while others are waiting to be discovered. The comprehensive menu draws mainly from the Old World (Spain, Portugal, Austria, and Italy) and a handful from the New World (Australia and Chile). www.viamarisbkk.co

exotic bar crawl by tuk tuk You have one or maybe even a few nights in Bangkok. You want to party but don’t know where to go out of a thousand pubs and bars in the city? What do you do? Well, join Every Smiling Tuk Tuk tour, designed to rank Bangkok insiders’ favourites, the bars are unique in their themes, decorations, music styles, and of course, the drinks. You’ll get four different vibes and styles in one night. Go from a cutting-edge speakeasy bar with traditional Thai theme to Bangkok’s most famous rooftop bar to an underground jazz bar, and a go-go bar with a boxing ring inside! The tour ends in Bangkok’s popular red-light district. From here, you may continue your journey into Bangkok’s nightlife or get our Tuk Tuk driver to drop you off at your hotel. Price: B1,400 per adult. www.smilingtuktuk.com/bangkok-eccentric-pub-crawl-by-tuk-tuk

bangkok101.com

JAN/ FEB 2019 | 101

NIGHTLIFE | review

Blue Parrot

A hidden tropical backyard in Sathorn proves to be the perfect spot for family…and wild nights.

“

ne more Ricard?” A question you often hear at Blue Parrot, the hip, vibrant, hidden bar in trendy Sathorn. And, it can be at any time of the day too, the French pastis drink on offer to customers as they put their feet up on a warm, weekend afternoon or accept the aperitif for a hit of anise-flavoured va-vavoom before entering the upstairs nightclub at Revolucion Cocktail. Like those lazy summers in Europe, bustling Bangkok can seem chaotic and overwhelming in comparison, but the city has its quieter, relaxing spaces too. Formed by Revolucion Cocktail, the Shanghai-based cocktail bar team, Blue Parrot offers customers 102 | JAN/ FEB 2019

a slice of tranquil heaven, away from the fumes and traffic-choked roads, offering up tasty Frenchinspired dishes with a Thai-twist and refreshing drinks—just what’s needed in these sweltering days. Head Chef Jeremy Godde, handsomely cooks behind the kitchen stove, magically serving his fall-off-the-bone sous-vide Pork Ribs, topped with a special homemade sauce. Umph! Just the thought of it makes me want to shut down my laptop and rush over. There is also a fantastic Whole Grilled Sea Bass, carefully cooked on the grill and served with tartar and tasty chilli sauces. The “Pool Platter” is perfect for those wishing to indulge in the afternoon—corn

chips, mozzarella stick, crispy fish rolls, caesar salad rolls and parma bruschetta—and the Set Lunch is a steal at B390 for 3 courses and B290 for 2 courses. There is also a kid’s menu, and, for when they’ve still not burnt off enough energy, a cool-looking swimming pool on site, designed in the shape of an ABSOLUT Vodka bottle. You’ll also find two lanes created to play Pétanque, that popular French pastime involving boules. Given its tucked away location, it’s easy to walk right past Blue Parrot, but that would be a mistake. This is a place of friends and food and fun and games. There is also the newly opened Mexican restaurant, La Lupita, located onsite and back downstairs on the lawn, daybeds on green grass and a special troublemakers’ play area for kids—slider, kid’s kitchen, tea set, blackboard, board game, Uno… everything they could want. Bar drinks are all created by the team behind Revolucion, so you can rest assured that what’s being prepared is from professionals with serious game. Watch them shake, pour and serve a wide variety of cocktails—or pour a glass of the much-loved Ricard. Oh, and you must try one of their Espresso Martinis, or two, or seven. It’s the ideal setup for daytime with the kids or fun evenings with friends. Alternatively, why not book it out for a party? Actually, I’m going to do just that. by Memy Chia

Blue Parrot

Sathorn Soi 10 Tel: 02 235 4823 Open: Daily, 11:30am-11pm www.blueparrot-bangkok.com bangkok101.com

listings | NIGHTLIFE

BAR

The Bar

perfect hub for a relaxing lunch/ brunch/diner, afternoon tea and afterwork drinks. The menu delivers a fresh and tasty international cuisine as well as live BBQ and kids' menu. 50 Sathorn Soi 10 Tel: 02 235 4822 Open: 11:30am-11pm www.blueparrot-bangkok.com

The Bar

The Diplomat Bar

Aqua

All-day dining and evening cocktails in Bangkok. Relax by the koi pond amidst tropical foliage in Aqua’s courtyard setting. Order a bite from any one of the dining establishments, or sample rare whiskies and cocktails. This alfresco lounge is also ideal for smokers, with a selection of cigars on offer. Enjoy live DJ sets on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday nights. Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel 155 Ratchadamri Rd. Tel: 02 126 8866 www.anantara.com/en/siam-bangkok/ restaurants/aqua

Featuring a black and gold colour theme, and both indoor and outdoor seating, this 10th floor lounge is warm, sophisticated, quiet and inviting—the archetype of a bar you would belly-up to after a long day at work or a long flight into town. 10F, Park Hyatt Bangkok 88 Wireless Rd. Bamboo Chic Bar Explore a selection of signature Open daily: 7am-midnight cocktails, wines, and spirits, while the Tel: 02 012 1234 culinary team prepares a variety of www.bangkok.park.hyatt.com snacks and delicatessen favourites in a contemporary lounge setting. Beer Belly 4F, Le Méridien Bangkok Beer Belly takes over the large 40/5 Surawong Rd. space on the right-hand side of 72 Open daily 5:30pm-11:30pm Courtyard’s ground floor and offers Tel: 02 232 8888 20 beers on tap, ranging from Leo www.lemeridienbangkokpatpong.com (B180/pint) and Asahi (B260/pint) to La Chouffe (B420/pint) and L’Olmaia LA5 (B480/pint). Bottled Thai craft beers like Chalawan (B180) and Phuket Beer (B180) are also available alongside East-meets-West drinking snacks like pork wontons (B140) and barbecue ribs (B320). While inside space provides games on the house like jenga, chess, and even beer pong, a pool table, ping pong table and a Bar@494 dartboard are also available. Or head outside for bar seating and tables Bar@494 A cosy place with an extensive selection when the weather's fine. of international wines. Chic décor, GF, 72 Courtyard, 72 Sukhumvit Soi 55 ambient lighting, and an excellent Tel: 02 392 7770 selection of food and wine make Open daily: 5pm-2am this vibrant bar one of downtown www.facebook.com/beerbellybkk Bangkok’s most popular evening venues. Come to enjoy world-class Blue Parrot cocktails and take advantage of the Revolucion Cocktail transformed his daily Happy Hours and the unbeatable backyard into a tropical hideaway, value of the unlimited Wine Buffet. a family-friendly restaurant named Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Ratchadamri Rd. 'Blue Parrot'. Blue Parrot is an oasis Tel: 02 254 1234 in the hustle and bustle of Bangkok. Open daily: 3:00pm-12:00am Offering a swimming pool, pétanque www.hyatt.com strips and kids play area, it is the bangkok101.com

Drop by any night and you’re likely to find suited and booted business types chatting over martinis. Dark wood touches, soft yellow lighting, and a den-like feel partly account for the bar’s popularity, and from 8pm Monday to Thursday (and 8.30pm Friday and Saturday), a talented band entertains with jazz and R&B sounds. 1F, Conrad Bangkok Hotel 87 Wireless Rd. Open: Sun-Thu, 7am-1am, Fri-Sat, 7am-2am Tel: 02 690 9244 www.facebook.com/ diplomatbarconradbangkok

Evil Man Blues

Evil Man Blues is a Jazz cocktail bar made out of a man’s madness. Expect the close knit vibe that is full of charm, sexiness, and spasms of love. Themed after a 1950s American diner as a homage to the American West Coast jazz bars of the '50s and '60s, purple and blue neon lights illuminate a well-polished space manned by new-in-town bartender, Liam Baer, who serves a list of creative twists on classic cocktails. GF, 72 Courtyard, 72 Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 392 7740 Open daily: 6pm-2am www.facebook.com/EvilManBlues JAN/ FEB 2019 | 103

NIGHTLIFE | listings

Le Café des Stagiaires

Casual friendly neighbourhood bar named after the French phrase for a place where young interns drink with homey atmosphere and the concept of, “There’s no stranger here, only the friends you haven’t met yet.” Open for late afternoon and dinner until you’re ready to dance. 142/21 Sathorn Soi 12 Tel: 086 840 8934 Open: Mon-Sat 4pm-2am www.facebook.com/pg/csbangkok/

235/13 Sukhumvit Soi 21 Tel: 02 664 1445 Open daily: 7pm-2am www.qnabar.com

37F, Pullman Hotel Bangkok G Open daily: 6pm-late Tel: 096 860 7990 www.randblab.com/scarlett-bkk

The Photo Booth

Sugar Ray, You've Just Been Poisoned

FindThePhotoBooth is a hidden speakeasy and the second bar following the success of FindTheLockerRoom, a high energy bar with great hospitality and delicious cocktails. 11 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 117 2636 www.facebook.com/FindThePhotoBooth

Rabbit Hole

Oskar

A bar with a modern yet cosy atmosphere, Oskar is a space for a bite to eat, friends to greet, and wine to drink. Known for value-for-money wines, consistently friendly service and hearty, delicious food, Oskar serves classic French and European dishes with a modern twist. 24 Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 097 289 4410 Open daily: 4pm-2am www.oskar-bistro.com/bangkok

Q&A

The whole concept is very subtle yet rigid, very calm but roaring inside. This bar looks forward to seeing mysterians meet new pals, good fellows have good conversations, and exceptional drinks make special moments. Their own collections of liquor and spirit, the craft of our cocktails, plus the topmost interior design reflect their philosophy to bring about traditional yet fascinating experience. Most people always have doubts on what they are going to order when they are in such place. This bar will give them an opportunity to investigate and finally find out what best drinks are for them in different occasions and feelings. 104 | JAN/ FEB 2019

This speakeasy from the owners of Q&A and Thaipioka is located inside Octo Seafood Bar. First opened in 2014, it has transformed the original’s mix-and-match charm into something sleeker and more minimal. While there are scattering tables for seating, the back-lit bar displays a well-stocked alcohol shelf. Grab a stool at the bar to watch and ask bartenders the drink-related questions you may have. 88 Sukhumvit Soi 24 Tel: 094 417 9898 Open daily: 7pm-2am www.facebook.com/Sugarraybkk

A proper cocktail bar, run by industry insiders, where the drinks come first and the cool interior just tops it off. What’s more, the personable bartenders really know their spirits. 125 Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 081 822 3392 Open daily: 7pm-2am Surface www.facebook.com/rabbitholebkk Classic French specialist Chef Chalee Kader successfully delivers comfort food that appeals to local tastes. The newly renovated dining room with a view of their own lush greenery garden reflects the fresh produce on the plates. At night, the young highsociety crowd fills the sofas and chairs. 107 Sukhumvit Soi 53 Tel: 02 258 2858 Open daily: 6pm-11:30pm Riedel Wine Bar & Cellar www.facebook.com/ Riedel Wine Bar & Cellar SurfaceKitchenAndGardenLab A world-class wine bar that isn’t just all about wine. There’s dozens of vinos to choose from, as well as some exciting options for the non-wine-inclined, while refined, rustic European cuisine is served up tapas-style for social dining. 2F, Gaysorn Plaza 999 Ploenchit Rd. Tel: 02 656 1133 Open daily: 11am-midnight Wine Connection The Grill www.riedelwinebarbkk.com

Scarlett Wine Bar & Restaurant

This sophisticated (and elevated) drink spot and bistro offers tipplers both a novel-sized wine list, and a host of creative cocktails—many of which make use of in-house infused spirits.

Wine Connection The Grill

There are currently 18 Wine Connection outlets in Bangkok, however, this branch also focusses on grilled meats—especially beef—to be enjoyed with the large selection of reasonably priced wines (available bangkok101.com

listings | NIGHTLIFE mainly by the bottle, but with some chairs and couches are comfortable, and the cocktails are delicious. “by the glass” options as well). 26F, Hotel Indigo Bangkok 1F, The Groove@CentralWorld 81 Wireless Rd. Open daily: 11am-midnight Tel: 02 207 4999 Tel: 02 613 1037 Open daily: 6pm-11:30pm www.wineconnection.co.th www.hotelindigo.com/bangkok

ROOFTOP SKY BAR ABar Rooftop

High above the city streets, ABar transports guests into a bygone era. With classical dark wooden décor, wingback chairs and leather-bound books, this cool sophisticated cocktail bar blends the mystery and magic of Victorian London with the gritty edge of 1930s America. This makes ABar the perfect spot in which to unwind and enjoy creative, hand-crafted cocktails in a cosy ambience overlooking the spectacular Bangkok skyline. 37F, 199 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 059 5999 www.bangkokmarriottmarquisqueenspark. com/dining/abar

Aire Bar

Offering a variety of wines, beers, and artisanal cocktails, with delicious snacks to boot. Plus, one of the best views of the city (day and night). A laid-back bar perfect for unwinding… cocktail in hand. 28F, Hyatt Place Sukhumvit Bangkok 22/5, Sukhumvit Soi 24 Open: Mon-Thu, 5pm-midnight; Fri-Sat, 5pm-1am; Sun, 3pm-11pm Tel: 02 055 1234 www.facebook.com/airebarbangkok

Char

Moon Bar & Vertigo Character Whisky & Cigar Bar

Character Whisky & Cigar Bar

The top floors of the Banyan Tree Hotel offer three iconic rooftop spots: Moon Bar, Vertigo, and the 64th floor Vertigo Too. All are perfect spots for a romantic rendezvous. 61/64F, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.banyantree.com

Both outlets of this warm and comfortable smoker’s lounge—one of which doubles as a skybar—serve some of the rarest and finest single malt whiskies from Scotland (and beyond), as well as housing humidors stocked with premium handmade c igars fro m C uba, Nic aragua, Dominican Republic, and more. Courtyard at Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel, 155 Rajadamri Rd. Open: Mon-Sat, 1pm-midnight Tel: 02 254 4726 32F, Compass Skyview Hotel Octave Rooftop Lounge & Bar 12 Sukhumvit Soi 24, Tel: 02 011 1133 www.facebook.com/characterbar Octave Rooftop Lounge

CRU Champagne Bar

& Bar

This high altitude hot spot is owned by G.H. Mumm Champagne brand and offers tipplers dozens of tables, as well as a circle-shaped showpiece bar. If you’re craving bottles of bubbly with a panoramic view, it doesn’t get any better than this. 59F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 100 1234 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.champagnecru.com

Whether you choose the outdoor lounge on the 45th floor or the alfresco bar on the 49th floor, you have breathtaking views in every direction. And those in search of a sundowner should heed the 5pm-7pm happy hours, when signature cocktails are half-price. 45-49F, Bangkok Hotel Marriott Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57 Open daily: 5pm-2am Tel: 02 797 0000 www.facebook.com/octavemarriott

Escape Bangkok

Red Sky Bar

Escape is a gathering place meant to Visitors here can enjoy a beautiful galvanise the artistic, gastronomic, view of Bangkok’s lively downtown and social life of the community. core. The breezes are gentle, the Finally an escape from the crazy life bangkok101.com

that you’re living is made possible, a way to forget the stress and let the good vibes in. Get ready to unlock your soul with some of the best entertainment, atmosphere, and cocktails in town. Escape Bangkok, a Sukhumvit Secret Sanctuary, awaits you at EmQuartier. 5F, EmQuartier Tel: 02 003 6000 Open daily: 5pm-12am www.escape-bangkok.com

One of Bangkok’s most acclaimed rooftop bars—perched dramatically above the heart of the city—offers light bites and signature cocktails. JAN/ FEB 2019 | 105

NIGHTLIFE | listings 56F, Centara Grand & Bangkok Convention Centre at CentralWorld 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 100 6255 Open daily: 4pm-1am (Happy Hours: 4pm-6pm) www.centarahotelsresorts.com

Tel: 02 207 8000 Open daily: 7am-1am www.westingrandesukhumvit.com

Rooftop Terrace at Penthouse Bar+Grill

A gastro bar with a modern industrial twist and a 2nd floor dance area, this nightlife venue offers a wide selection of cocktails and classic European dishes with a modern twist. 14 Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 093 421 1991 Open daily: 5pm-2am www.facebook.com/8oneleven

CLUB 8 on Eleven

This dramatic skybar is the perfect spot to drink in Bangkok’s nighttime skyline in an outdoor garden lounge setting. Order anything from a bucket of drinks, to curated cocktails and expertly crafted bites. 36F, Park Hyatt Bangkok 88 Wireless Rd. Open daily: 5:30pm-midnight Beam Tel: 02 012 1234 An honest club with a communal vibe, bangkok.park.hyatt.com plus great music and one of the best sound systems. You can be yourself here—dance like you mean it, soak up the vibe, then spread the love. 1F, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 392 7750 Open: Wed-Sat, 8pm-2am www.beamclub.com

ThreeSixty Rooftop Bar

Set high above the glittering lights of Bangkok's Chao Phraya, discover the perfect setting to relax, unwind and take in unbeatable 360° panoramic vistas. Select from delicious, creative cocktails, made by the champion mixologists as you enjoy the live music from an experienced jazz singer. Millennium Hilton Bangkok, 32F, 123 Charoennakorn Rd. Open daily: 5pm-1am Tel: 02 442 2000 www3.hilton.com

Zest Bar and Terrace

Recently refurbished, this tippling spot entices guests with an all-new drink menu, featuring expertly crafted cocktails, and a range of gastronomic delights such as beer battered fish and chips. 7F, Westin Grande Sukhumvit Bangkok 259 Sukhumvit Rd. 106 | JAN/ FEB 2019

a mix of resident expats, stylish Thai party animals, and wide-eyed holidaymakers who can’t get enough. 6F, 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 082 308 3246 Open daily: 9pm-2am www.facebook.com/levelsclub

Mixx Discotheque

Classier than most of Bangkok’s afterhour dance clubs, the space is a two-room affair—one plays R&B and Hip Hop, the other does Techno & House—decked out with chandeliers, paintings, and billowing sheets. President Tower Arcade 973 Ploenchit Rd. Tel: 02 656 0382 Open daily: 10pm-late www.mixx-discotheque.com/bangkok

Narz

Also known as Narcissus, this multi-level club has been keeping Bangkok’s dance crowd moving for over two decades with their wild party atmosphere. Perfect for groups who want to make it their playground for the night. 112 Sukhumvit Soi 23 Tel: 02 258 4805 Favela Favela is a truly dedicated Hip Hop, Open daily: 9pm-3am Reggaeton, and Urban nightclub. www.narzclubbangkok.net Bringing you a modern urban vibe with all white décor, exquisite lighting, perfected sound system, and unique ambience, Favela is the choice to shine at, where you can dance until you drop. 139 Thonglor Soi 10 Tel: 098 270 7007 Open: Tue-Sat 9am-3am www.favelabangkok.com Siwilai City Club

Siwilai City Club

A social club for everyone, spanning 1,200 square metres, it is Siwilai’s F&B and lifestyle arm, located on the 5th floor of Central Embassy. Designed with various points of access from within the mall itself, the club’s expansive facade of ombre blues and white oak planks exude an airiness Levels and approachability, inviting curious passers-by to come and discover Levels One of the most reliably busy what exactly lies behind the indigonightclubs in Bangkok that welcomes accented shutters. bangkok101.com

listings | NIGHTLIFE refined foreign crowd than the norm in the neighbourhood, thanks to great live music and day-long happy hour deals. 265 Khao San Rd. Tel: 02 629 4477 Open daily: 24 hours www.mulligansthailand.com

5F, Central Embassy Tel: 02 160 5631 Open daily: 11am-12am www.siwilaibkk.com/cityclub

Sugar Club Bangkok

A brand-new venue dedicated to bringing Bangkok’s party crowd the best Hip-Hop clubbing experience. Sugar Club is the newest addition to the city’s energetic nightlife scene, featuring an exceptional state-of-the-art sound and intelligent lighting system that will rock you seven days a week. 37 Sukhumvit Soi 1/1 Tel: 061 391 3111 Open daily: 10pm-4am www.sugarclub-bangkok.com

PUBS

The Australian

Havana Social

Havana Social is a secret prerevolutionary 1940’s Cuban Cocktail Bar in Sukhumvit 11. The speakeasy is hidden behind a mock-retro Telephone booth, which you access via a unique passcode in order to enter. Other than the cigar lounge upstairs, it features a variety of Latino, Cuban, Salsa, and Reggaeton and performed live late at night, perfect for a dance-off. Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 02 061 5344 Open daily: 6pm-2am www.facebook.com/havanasocialbkk/

Adhere the 13th Blues Bar

One of Bangkok’s funkiest, coolest hangouts, and nothing more than an aisle packed with five tables, a tiny bar, and a band that churns out cool blues, Motown, and originals. 13 Samsen Rd. (opposite Soi 2) Open daily: 6pm-midnight Tel: 089 769 4613 www.facebook.com/adhere13thbluesbar

Apoteka

Built to emulate a 19th-century apothecary, this lively spot has a casual old-school feel, indoor and outdoor seating, an awesome line-up The Huntsman English-style pub, cool and dark, of live music almost every day of the with lots of nooks and crannies and a week, tasty bar snacks, and a drink selection including beer and custom Sunday roast like no other. craft cocktails. No dress code, no cover GF, The Landmark Hotel charge, and no pretention! 138 Sukhumvit Rd. 33/28 Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 02 254 0404 Tel: 090 626 7655 Open daily: 11:30am-2am Open daily: Mon-Thu, 5pm-1am, www.landmarkbangkok.com/ Fri, 5pm-2am, Sat-Sun, 3pm-midnight huntsman-pub www.apotekabkk.com

A wide and bright Australian import, complete with beer schooners as well as bottles from Coopers and VB, live rugby matches on TV, and rock bands on stage. 37 Sukhumvit Soi 11 The Londoner Tel: 02 651 0800 It’s the only purpose-built British pub Open daily: 9am-late in Bangkok, and it’s also the oldest www.theaustralianbkk.com microbrewery in the city (it first opened in 1997, and was originally located The Drunken Leprechaun on Sukhumvit Soi 33). In its current T h i s h e a v i l y I r i s h - t h e m e d location the building itself is new, but establishment offers delicious pub once you enter the doors you feel as grub and drinks from the Emerald though you are in an old style ‘local’. I s l e a n d b e y o n d . T h e n i g h t l y 1178 Pattanakarn Rd. entertainment includes weekly pub Tel: 02 022 8025 quizzes, generous happy hours, and Open daily: Mon-Sat, 11am-midnight, Sun, 9am-midnight complimentary snacks. www.the-londoner.com Four Points by Sheraton 4 Sukhumvit 15 Tel: 02 309 3255 Mulligan’s Irish Bar Open daily: 10am-1am A Khao San institution that draws www.thedrunkenleprechaun.com hordes of young locals and a more bangkok101.com

LIVE MUSIC

Bamboo Bar

A small and busy landmark of the East’s past glories that is, nevertheless, romantic and intimate, thanks to the legendary jazz band that plays each night. Ideal for a boozy night out or a romantic special occasion. JAN/ FEB 2019 | 107

NIGHTLIFE | listings The Mandarin Oriental Bangkok 48 Oriental Ave (riverfront) Tel: 02 659 9000 Open daily: Sun-Thu, 11am-1am, Fri-Sat, 11am-2am www.mandarinoriental.com

Black Amber Social Club

A modern classic lifestyle facility with 1920's speakeasy located behind clubhouse's lobby. Starting out as a barber and tattoo shop on a small alley off Thonglor, Black Amber Social Club expanded into a new whisky bar. They preserve the original gentlemen’s club vibe with a mixed crowd. The bar stocks an impressive range of whisky, bourbon, and rum in sophisticated surroundings. There’s also a vintage shop (Mirror Mask) and a high-end tailor (Toast Bespoke) upstairs. 160/17 Thonglor Soi 6 Tel: 02 102 8617 Open: Tue-Sat 6:30-2am, Sun 6:30pm-12am www.facebook.com/blackambersocialclub

Black Cabin

Half the space at Wild & Co. restaurant is given over to this brick-walled pub, which eschews the mainstream Billboard 100, focusing instead on live bands. Before and after the bands play, resident DJ’s spin vinyl, relying on personal collections rather than playlists. Wild & Co, 33/1 Soi Farm Wattana Tel: 061 515 6989 Open daily: 5:30pm-1am www.facebook.com/blackcabinbar

Brown Sugar

Bangkok’s oldest, cosiest jazz venue. A restaurant and coffee house by day that morphs into a world-class jazz haunt where renditions of bebop and ragtime draw crowds by night. 108 | JAN/ FEB 2019

the backbone of this stark, yet cool, shophouse turned small bar on the edge of Chinatown’s art district. 945 Charoenkrung Rd. Tel: 083 092 2266 Open daily: 6pm-1am Check Inn 99 A lively bar and cabaret club in www.facebook.com/livesoulbarbangkok downtown Bangkok (next to the Lotus Hotel) and one of the city’s most celebrated live music venues. Nightly live music includes jam sessions, Sunday jazz, and a local Thai and international menu. Happy Hour and easy-listening sets run between 6pm-8:30pm. 1/1 Sukhumvit Soi 33 Tel: 081 735 7617 Whisgars Open: daily, 11am-2am www.checkinn99.com Whisgars Famous for whisky, cigars, wine and cocktails, and entertainment and known as one of Asia’s best whisky and cigar bars, Whisgars team visited over a dozen distilleries and did countless tastings to provide guests with an unparalleled selection of the finest, rarest single malt and single cask whiskies. The in-house curator has walked the farms in Nicaragua, Maggie Choo's touched the soil in Honduras, visited cigar factories in the Dominican Maggie Choo’s The bar’s attraction is the live jazz Republic, and explored Cuba to music, some of the best the city has bring the very best selection of to offer. The welcoming atmosphere cigars in the world. The creative and is amplified with sultry mysticism and experienced mixologists carefully redolent of Shanghai’s dandyish early craft award-winning cocktails using only the freshest ingredients and 20th-century gambling dens. the best techniques. And, talented GF, Hotel Novotel Fenix entertainers deliver live jazz every 320 Silom Rd. Wednesday and Friday, and house Tel: 02 635 6055 magician each week. Open: Tue-Sun, 6pm-2am 16 Sukhumvit Soi 23 www.facebook.com/maggiechoos Tel: 02 664 4252 Open daily: 2pm-2am Saxophone A must-visit live music joint, dishing www.whisgars.com out stiff drinks and killer blues, ska, and jazz every single night of the week. The Zuk Bar 3/8 Victory Monument An ideal place for aperitifs or after Phayathai Rd. dinner drinks, which can be savoured Tel: 02 246 5472 alongside a selection of tapas menu Open daily: 6pm-2am items. Chill out while admiring the www.saxophonepub.com fabulous garden view. The Sukhothai Bangkok 13/3 South Sathorn Rd. SoulBar Metalwork, modern art, and live Tel: 02 344 8888, Open daily: 5pm-1am Motown, Funk, Blues, and Soul, form www.sukhothai.com

469 Phra Sumen Rd. Tel: 089 499 1378 Open daily: 6pm-1am www.brownsugarbangkok.com

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SIGNING OFF | did you know?

uay Thai was originally developed as a form of combat to use the whole body as a weapon. Today, it’s a cultural martial art and Thailand’s national sport… and passion. Similar to Western boxing styles, a Muay Thai competition is divided into rounds, but the sport’s original method for timing these rounds, around the 1900s, was quite unique: a pierced coconut shell placed in water. When the coconut filled with water and sunk, the round was over. In some instances, coconut shells were even knocked together in order to create a sound, pre-bells. Just like in English pantomimes and Monty Python and the Holy Grail. These days, you can watch a few rounds yourself at Bangkok’s Lumpinee Boxing Stadium, which hosts Muay Thai bouts every Tuesday, Friday and Saturday. And, if you’re wanting to get involved yourself, maybe taking up Muay Thai as part of your New Year’s fitness regime, then here are a few local classes, catering to all levels.

110 | JA N/ FEB 2019

Luktupfah Muay Thai Camp On Nut (Lower Sukhumvit) www.luktupfah.com Sor Vorapin Gym (Khao San) www.thaiboxings.com Jitti Gym (Ratchada) www.facebook.com/JittiGym Banchamek Gym Kaset-Nawamin (Bangkok Suburbs) www.muaythaicampsthailand.com/banchamek-gym Master Toddy’s Muay Thai Academy (Bearing, Sukhumvit) www.mastertoddy.com Meenayothin Muay Thai Gym Phahon Yothin (North Bangkok) www.muaythaicampsthailand.com/meenayothin-gym Fighting Spirit Gym (Silom) www.muaythaicampsthailand.com/fighting-spirit-gym RSM Academy (Sukhumvit) www.rsm-academy.com bangkok101.com