CITY PULSE
Speaking of meat cuts, just how gruesome do Smith’s dishes get? To find out, I ventured inside on a rainy Tuesday evening, images of barely disguised body parts and gloopy bowls of spleen swirling in my head. What I got instead were neat dishes of simple, flavourful, often summery comfort food. My first dish was not even on the menu at all: thinly sliced calves heart garnished with slivers of sweet plum, starfruit and coconut blossoms. Despite the exotic ingredients, it was resolutely, reassuringly unfancy. Our other two starters were the steak tartare with crispy deep-fried capers and garden herbs, and braised pig’s tail with tuna and foie gros torchon. Again, both were full of interesting flavours and textures and lent a summery feel due to the garnish of edible flower blossoms. For our main we went for more porcine goodness: the verjus glazed pork belly (B350). “We cook it for three days,” says Peter. “We fry it one night, then smoke it, then braise it, and finally pan fry it.” Served alongside slivers of sweet plum, lentils and yet more edible flowers, the meat looked fantastic and tasted it.
transports you to a garden in summertime Europe every time you swig it. Alternatively, there are also beers on tap (and four spare ones for dining parties who want to buy their own keg – “we give you four days to drink it,” says Chanond).
Bangkok’s love of a food trend is such that, six months from now, restaurants all across the city will probably be feeding from the nose-to-tail trough. “Already some younger chefs With dishes such as these already the talk of the town among cooking molecular food want to switch because of what we’re foodies, Smith’s desserts and cocktails are destined to get less doing,” says Ian. For the time being, though, all you need to attention; but that’s not to say they’re a letdown. Far from it. know it that this particular pig is ready for market. Banana splits, chocolate terrine, baked alaska and the British upper crusts variation on strawberries and cream, the Eton สมิธ ถ.สุขุมวิท 49 Mess, are the current sweet finishes. And the drinks list is as getting there extensive and full of surprises as you’d expect from the team SMITH [MAP4 /p6] behind Hyde & Seek. To name just one, the Garden of Good 1/8 Sukhumvit Soi 49 | BTS Thong Lor | 02-261-0515 & Evil is a light blend of Hoegaarden, lychee and ginger that www.facebook/smith | Mon - Sun 5pm - midnight 12 | august 2012
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