om
restaurant
review
WHERE S1/22 Sukhumvit Soi 11 BTS Nana OPEN Mon-Sun 5pm-midnight, Sat-Sun lunch PRICE $
SNAPPER Updates of the humble chippie have sprung up all over the city in recent years. Thonglor’s Fat Gutz, and, more recently, Sam’s Fish & Chips, over on Soi Convent, are just two of the half a dozen or so now offering fish and chips in smart, grease-free surrounds. Now, first time restaurateur, Kiwi Craig has entered the fray, bringing his own country’s version of the popular working-class supper to Sukhumvit Soi 11’s ever more tasty little sub-soi. “Our fish are caught straight from pristine New Zealand waters using sustainable fishing methods”, says the menu, which features a slim selection of starters, tasting plates and salads in addition to the obvious. Five breeds of fish, including the signature whole snapper (B580), are available battered, as are green lip mussels (B30 each), tiger prawn tails (B60 each), fresh scallops (B35 each), calamari (B85), and Nelson Bay oysters (B85 each). We like the menu’s brevity, the food even more so. Our bowl of marinated mussels, with its assertive hints of coriander and chili, was a feisty opener; and the fresh scallops sautéed in white wine, garlic butter and chives even better, succulent if a little pricey at four for B280. Golden fried, and not slick in oil, our two slabs of fish arrived wrapped in paper, atop a mound of crispy thick-cut chips made from imported NZ potatoes (B75 half scoop,
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B110 full scoop). Of the two, the Blue Warehou had a slighter tougher texture than the moister, more succulent Tarakhihi (both B170), which we preferred. The all important sauces (a garlic aioli, tartar sauce, and a homemade ketchup made from a recipe that Craig managed to finagle from a relative back home) are also nicely done. Alternatives to all the deep-fried goodness include whole breakfast flounder (B350), pan-fried with herb butter, and served with small slices of sunflower seed toast. A slim two leveller next door to Charlie Brown’s, Snapper looks great, with its rough wood tables and benches, cheerful marine-blue paintjob, and light nautical touches (paintings of fish on salvaged wood, a net pulled back over the staircase). The wine list is slim, with four by the glass, and 12 by the bottle, all of them New Zealand or Australian. Like new shipmates fresh out of port, the staff were eager and chipper on our visit, albeit still learning the ropes. The recent spate of new restaurants opening on Soi 11 begs the question: is there enough business to go round? Something tells us Snapper will be just fine, however. Come for a pre night-on-the-tiles supper or to treat the kids and we don’t think you’ll leave disappointed. Max Crosbie-Jones
สแนปเปอร สุขุมวิท ซ.11
food & drink
december 2011
57