Tail Fly Fishing Magazine: TEN-YEAR ANNIVERSARY ISSUE - #61

THE VOICE OF SALTWATER FLY FISHING

10 YEARS

the VOICE OF SALTWATER FLY FISHING

2012 - 2022 FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

TEN-YEAR ANNIVERSARY ISSUE Special Double Edition

61

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022

SEPT/OCTOBER 2022 DISPLAY UNTIL NOVEMBER 30

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 1

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This shot is called “The Athlete,” a title that really needs no explanation.

Dreams and memories are made of scenes like this. Photo by Neal Rogers

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Crepuscular periods present some of the best opportunities to find fish, and the soft, pastel light of dawn and dusk make for stunning photographs. This image appeared on the cover of Issue 45 (January/February 2020). Photo by David McCleaf

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They don’t have to be big to be beautiful. Photo by Zane Taylor

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It’s a bird, it’s a fish . . . it’s a fly fishing fish, a species that never ceases to amaze as it sails up to 200 meters over the water’s surface or carves an evanescent trail as seen here.

Photo from TFFM archive

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TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 11

— from the editor Tenacity, Persistence, and Obstinance Thomas Edison was possibly the most tenacious and hardworking inventor of all time. He has been quoted in this publication several times. If you have ever spent time with me, I’m sure an Edison quote or reference was made, as he is someone I admire and strive to emulate. His tenacity and work ethic best represent the spirit of Tail Fly Fishing Magazine and me personally. He never stopped reaching, even in the face of failure, and used each failure to move closer to his goals. Words frequently used to describe Edison are “obstinate” and “persistent.” Persistence is defined as firm or obstinate continuance in a course of action in spite of difficulty or opposition.

Launching and continuing a print magazine while the entire world is clamoring that print is dead would most definitely qualify. But here’s more insight, quoting Edison: “One might think that the money value of an invention constitutes its reward to the man who loves his work. But speaking for myself, I can honestly say this is not so. . . . I continue to find my greatest pleasure, and so my reward, in the work that precedes what the world calls success.”

TFFM has enjoyed continued growth and acceptance despite more ups and downs than a theme park. I am contented by where my obstinance has brought me.

The honor of making a magazine that has become the voice of saltwater fly fishing, bringing much joy to readers, is the reward for me. If I may take the liberty of speaking for my team, it is for them, too. After ten years, I’m still waiting for my first paycheck from TFFM, but if it takes another ten years, I can wait it out.

receiving all the glowing texts, phone calls, emails, and sincere expressions of thanks that accompany each new release is my reward. Being able to photograph and share the successes and smiles of the anglers on our hosted trips is yet another. The joy is doing what we love to do—fly fishing in salt water. If manufacturers and lodges don’t participate with TFFM, who cares really? They lose by missing the opportunity to connect with this community—our community.

This issue is special for obvious reasons, but making the 61st issue of Tail Fly Fishing Magazine while stamping a decade of devotion to saltwater fly fishing is especially sentimental for me. It wasn’t all that long ago we were discussing how we were going to keep things going. Thankfully, we found a way to make it here and beyond.

This issue is a special double issue with new content as well as some previously published content that many of you have probably never seen. We wanted to remind old readers of, and introduce new readers to, the body of work we have assembled over the last decade. Issue 61 starts with the very first article from the very first issue, explaining my reasons for starting TFFM. While we started obscurely, having never published anything or having any concept of marketing, the content of this issue demonstrates how persistence and grit can prevail.

All of us at TFFM know that this is the best issue we’ve ever put together, but we reinforce our commitment that each issue will be better than the last.

Enjoy this anniversary issue. It was ten years in the making.

Again, Mr. Edison: “Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work.”

Yes, TFFM is a lot of work; I can’t stress how much work it actually is. While there is no monetary reward,

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Joseph Ballarini Editor in Chief

TM

GUIDE TESTED.

On the Cover: We’ve never met a fish tail we didn’t like, but it doesn’t get much more iconic than the redfish’s vibrant copper caudal fin with its prevalent spot.

Photo by Macala Elliott THE VOICE OF SALTWATER FLY FISHING

10 YEARS

the VOICE OF SALTWATER FLY FISHING

2012 - 2022 FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

TEN-YEAR ANNIVERSARY ISSUE Special Double Edition

61

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022

SEPT/OCTOBER 2022 DISPLAY UNTIL NOVEMBER 30

GUIDE TRUSTED.

Editor-In-Chief: Managing Editor: Acquisitions Editor: Creative Director: Food Editor: Travel Editor: West Coast Editor: Consulting Editor: Contributing Editors: Gear Editor: Historians: Editors-at-Large:

Joseph Ballarini Trey Reid George V. Roberts Jr. Scott Morrison Jennifer Matsu Peter McLeod Al Quattrocchi Chico Fernandez Andy Mill, Nicky Mill Andrew Ebert Pete Barrett, Ed Mitchell Joe Doggett, Mark B. Hatter, Tom Keer, James P. Spica Jr. Copy Editor: Leila Beasley

Creative Contributors: Joseph Albanese Joseph Ballarini John Bracey Stephen Collector Carlos Cortez Michael DeJarnette Joe Doggett Andrew Ebert Macala Elliott Chico Fernandez

Daniel Goez Captain Scott Hamilton Carl Harris Ilias Karanzas Arek Kubale Jennifer Matsu David McCleaf Peter McLeod Jon Olch Trey Reid

George Roberts Ryan Rodgers Neal Rogers Gilbert Rowley Rob Schumske Zane Taylor Don Thomas Lori Thomas Aaron Wood

About Tail Fly Fishing Magazine is the voice of saltwater fly fishing in a bimonthly print and digital publication. We focus on delivering high-quality content, the very best photography, destination travel, reputable commentary, and technical features from the saltwater fly fishing culture. Tail Fly Fishing Magazine began as a digital publication in 2012 and debuted as a print magazine in 2016. Combined, the digital and print versions reach readers in more than 45 countries.

In many places throughout the world, fly fishing has become important to both people and the environment. As a method of fishing imbued with values of stewardship and conservation, it connects people with the marine world in significant and positive ways. We, the anglers, are the last line of defense for our outdoor spaces.

Tail Fly Fishing Magazine supports the arts and creativity, conservation, and organizations that trumpet this message. We’re grateful for your support and we welcome photographic and written contributions.

TFFM is published six times annually, and your print subscription includes the digital version. Subscriptions are available through our website. International subscriptions are also available for most countries. Please contact our general mailbox, admin@tailflyfishing.com, with any advertising, subscription, or submission questions.

Tail Fly Fishing Magazine 2300 Alton Road Miami Beach, FL 33140 305-763-8285 tailflyfishing.com

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CONTENTS 24 30

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INSIDE THE BOX: TEN FLIES WE SHOULD ALWAYS HAVE - Joseph Ballarini To celebrate our tenth anniversary, our founder has compiled a list of ten flies that should always be in your fly box, using information collected from thousands of anglers, hundreds of guides, and dozens of lodge owners—as well as his own personal experience. Did your favorites make the cut? Let the debate begin.

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ADDICTION - Joseph Ballarini In the beginning, there was a burning passion for saltwater fly fishing, followed soon by a quest for knowledge, information, and experience. That’s how this magazine was born, and this feature, which appeared as the first article in Issue 1 (September/October 2012), explains how Editor-in-Chief Joseph Ballarini was hooked by his first bonefish, sparking an obsession with saltwater fly fishing and giving rise to the product you now hold in your hands.

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BARRACUDA BREAKDOWN - Chico Fernandez There are a lot of fish in the sea, and according to Chico Fernandez, one of the most underrated is the great barracuda. Its runs aren’t as long as some of the other species we pursue with fly rods in salt water, but the barracuda more than makes up for it by viciously attacking a fly and making a blazing initial run—often with impressive aerial acrobatics. Chico explains the allure of fly fishing for barracuda and how to find and catch this unsung hero of the flats.

GEAR GUIDE - TFFM Staff We couldn’t publish an expanded issue without a similarly expanded Gear Guide, so this special installment of the regular reader favorite highlights even more cool stuff than usual—clothes, gear, and gadgets galore–with the editor’s choice awards for some of our favorites.

WIDE OPEN - Gilbert Rowley The goal was recording video of fly anglers in search of tuna and dorado off the coast of Southern California, but Gilbert Rowley got even more than he bargained for when he hooked a yellowfin tuna for his first saltwater fish on a fly rod. Originally published in Issue 22 (March/ April 2016), this piece tells the story of a Western trout guy’s mind-boggling introduction to the salt.

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THE HEART OF THE KEYS: A MARATHON JOURNAL - Stephen Collector A photography assignment introduced Stephen Collector to the Florida Keys in the 1980s, and he was immediately enchanted with the place, especially after spending time with Jim Harrison, Russell Chatham, and Tom McGuane—the subjects of the magazine shoot.

More than three decades later, Collector returned earlier this year for an extended stay, documenting his return in this journal and the accompanying black and white photographs, most of which were shot on film.

THE MURDER CUCUMBERS OF BLEKINGE Ilias Karanzas The southern coast of Sweden is thousands of miles from the tropical Caribbean flats that more often fill this magazine’s pages. And braving February’s chill to fly fish for pike in the brackish waters near Blekinge is light years from the saltwater fly fishing norm. Ilias Karanzas and photographer Arek Kubale take us to another world of fly fishing in this piece that originally appeared in Issue 25 (September/October 2016).

ON THE PLATE: SEAFOOD PAELLA - Jennifer Matsu Inspired by evening conversations about Cuban food with Chico Fernandez during El Palometero 2022 in Punta Allen, Mexico, our food editor returned home from her travels, dug out the special cookware, and came up with this tasty seafood paella. ¡Buen provecho!

BAYOU VISTA RANCH WATER - TFFM Staff The Ranch Water cocktail has been all the rage in recent years—companies are even making canned versions to take advantage of the hard-seltzer craze—and now comes Tail Fly Fishing Magazine’s take on it, courtesy of Food Editor Jennifer Matsu. The Ranch Water keeps the tequila—or mezcal in this version—front and center, while the sparkling mineral water makes it light and refreshing. She has added a new ingredient, too.

SEEING RED - Macala Elliott Sometimes, few words are necessary, and we think Mac Elliott’s redfish photos speak for themselves in this superb photographic essay. She captures the essence of these beautiful bruisers in Texas, Florida, and South Carolina, and if you’re not ready to head to the marsh after seeing these images, you need to check your pulse.

Photo courtesy of Aardvark McLeod

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FLY TYING: COOLA POP SHRIMP - Carl Harris It’s a shrimp, it’s a popper . . . it’s a popping shrimp. It’s the Coola Pop Shrimp by Carl Harris. Grab some foam and feathers and get to work with these step-by-step instructions.

BASS ON TOP - George Roberts When fly fishing for striped bass, there’s nothing more exciting than taking them on surface flies. In this technical piece that originally appeared in Issue 37 (September/October 2018), Acquisitions Editor George Roberts reveals the flies to use, gear specs, and when and where to use surface flies—as well as the best ways to make your bugs gurgle and glug to call up hungry and curious stripers.

CHASING THE WAVING TAIL: AN EVOLUTION IN PERMIT FISHING - Jonathan Olch Saltwater fly fishing is constantly changing and evolving with advances in both equipment and knowledge, and permit fishing is no exception. Jon Olch, the author of A Passion for Permit, weighs in with an evaluation of the changes—and constants—in permit fly fishing over the past decade.

UNHAPPY HOOKERS - E. Donnall Thomas Jr. You see some “interesting” injuries in hospital emergency rooms, and when the hospital is in Soldotna, Alaska, situated on the Kenai River and home base for the river’s famous salmon runs, that includes lots of fish hooks embedded in body parts. Don Thomas, who practiced medicine in Soldotna for a number of years, shares some humorous stories about his experience. More important, though, he dispenses practical advice about what to do when an errant cast results in hooks in the wrong places.

DECADE OF CONSERVATION - TFFM Staff Conservation of marine resources is the foundation of all we hold dear in the world of saltwater fly fishing. There have been success stories and disappointing setbacks over the past ten years, but this piece calls attention to some of the most notable conservation achievements during Tail Fly Fishing Magazine’s first decade as the voice of saltwater fly fishing.

DORADO ON THE BANK - Carlos Cortez Golden dorado aren’t a saltwater species, but fly fishing for them requires many of the same tactics and techniques used for the salty species we often pursue.

Carlos Cortez explores the golden dorado game on the sand banks of South America’s Alta Paraná River, drawing comparisons to his sometimes obsessive pursuit of permit.

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FLYING HIGH FOR TARPON - Joe Doggett Longtime Houston Chronicle outdoor writer Joe Doggett has made many contributions to this magazine over the years, but this story of fly fishing for tarpon in Costa Rica in the early 1980s is probably our favorite.

This humorous tale of a day on the water in search of tarpon—and validation from a demanding young guide—initially appeared in Issue 39 (January/February 2019).

DEEP GRAVY - Trey Reid Our managing editor shares the story of the best week of saltwater fly fishing of his life, but it’s more than an expository piece recounting his uncommon success.

He probes unexpected feelings of sheepishness and disbelief that arose as the fishing just kept getting better.

In the end, it’s all gravy. But how much gravy is enough?

GT BEHAVIOR AND HANGOUTS Peter McLeod TFFM Travel Editor Peter McLeod has amassed a wealth of angling knowledge while traveling the globe in search of the next great fly fishing adventure. In this piece, which appeared in Issue 27 (January/February 2017), he provides summaries from his book, GT: A Fly Fisher’s Guide to Giant Trevally, that explain where to find these “gangsters of the ocean” and how to catch them.

SALT MARSH SECRETS - Joseph Albanese When the stars align—mainly in the form of tides and water temperatures—the shallow waters of Northeast salt marshes explode with life, leading to a feeding frenzy of epic proportions and some of the best striped bass fishing to be found on the Atlantic Coast. Initially appearing in Issue 34 (March/April 2018), this technical piece reveals all you need to know about identifying the right conditions and taking advantage of them.

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A GUIDE’S LIFE - Scott Hamilton Captain Scott Hamilton says every day on the water is unique, but some are definitely more unusual than others. In this article from Issue 17 (May/June 2015), Hamilton shares several accounts from his life on the water. From the harrowing story of surviving an unexpected storm to humorous tales of busted tackle, these tales are sure to entertain.

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UNDERTOW: QUERENCIA - Aaron Wood Isolation and loneliness are two sides of a coin in Aaron Wood’s thoughtful essay about fly fishing on a remote beach guarded by crocodiles. Querencia is Spanish for “affection,” and in this case, the object of that affection is a place to oneself.

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T&T Amassadors Justin Rea and Rob Kramarz in the Florida Keys.

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R E T A I L E R S C A R R Y T A I L

ALASKA Mossy’s Fly Shop 750 W. Diamond Blvd, Suite 114 Anchorage, AK 99515 907-770-2666 mossysflyshop.com CALIFORNIA Bob Marriott’s Fly Fishing Store 2700 W. Orangethorpe Ave Fullerton, CA 92833 714-525-1827 bobmarriottsflyfishingstore. com COLORADO Front Range Anglers 2344 Pearl Street Boulder, CO 80302 303-494-1375 frontrangeanglers.com Golden Fly Shop 710 Golden Ridge Rd #126 Golden, CO 80401 303-330-1291 goldenfly.shop CONNECTICUT The Compleat Angler 541 Boston Post Road Darien, CT 06820 203-655-9400 compleatangleronline.com FLORIDA 239 Flies 3431 Bonita Beach Rd SW Unit #205 Bonita Springs, FL 34134 (239) 908-3513 239flies.com

ORVIS Sandestin 625 Grand Boulevard Ste 101 Sandestin, FL 32550 850-650-2174 Orvis.com Seven Mile Fly Shop 1638 Overseas Highway Marathon, FL 33050 (305) 440-3406 sevenmileflyshop.com The Angling Company 333 Simonton St Key West, FL 33040 305-292-6306 anglingcompany.com The Tide 26 Grouper Hole Drive Boca Grande, FL 33921 941-964-2417 GEORGIA ORVIS Atlanta Buckhead Square 3255 Peachtree Rd NE Atlanta, GA 30305 404-841-0093 Orvis.com The Fish Hawk 764 Miami Cir NE #126 Atlanta, GA 30305 404-237-3473 thefishhawk.com LOUISIANA ORVIS Baton Rouge Perkins Rowe, Bldg. H 7601 Bluebonnet Blvd., Ste. 140 Baton Rouge LA 70810 225-757-7286 Orvis.com

NORTH CAROLINA OBX on the Fly 107 Sir Walter Raleigh St Manteo, NC 27954 obxonthefly.com RHODE ISLAND The Saltwater Edge 1037 Aquidneck Ave Middletown, RI 02842 866-793-6733 saltwateredge.com SOUTH CAROLINA Bay Street Outfitters 825 Bay Street Beaufort, SC 29902 843-524-5250 baystreetoutfitters.com ORVIS Charleston 535 King St. Charleston, SC 29403 (854) 999-4985 Orvis.com Southern Drawl Outfitters 1533 Fording Island Rd Hilton Head Island, SC 29926 843-705-6010 southerndrawloutfitters.com TEXAS Bayou City Angler 3641 Westheimer Rd Suite A Houston, TX 77027 832-831-3104 bayoucityangler.com

Sportsman’s Finest 12434 Bee Cave Road Austin, TX 78738 512-263-1888 sportsmansfinest.com Swan Point Landing 1723 Cherry Street Suite 4 Rockport, TX 78382 361-729-7926 swanpointlandingflyshop.net Tailwaters Fly Fishing Co. 1933 E. Levee St Dallas, TX 75207 888-824-5420 tailwatersflyfishing.com UTAH Fishwest 47 West 10600 South Sandy, UT 84070 fishwest.com 801-617-1225 WASHINGTON Peninsula Outfitters 19740 7th Ave NE, Suite 110 Poulsbo, WA 98370 360-394-1599 peninsulaoutfitters.com The Avid Angler 17171 Bothell Way NE #A272 Lake Forest Park, WA 98155 206-362-4030 avidangler.com WYOMING Lander Fly Shop 305 Main Street Lander, WY 82520 307-438-3439 landerflyshop.com

MARYLAND

Gordy & Sons Outfitters 22 Waugh Drive Houston, TX 77007 713-333-3474 gordyandsons.com

Florida Keys Outfitters 81219 Overseas Highway Islamorada, FL 33036 305-664-5432 floridakeysoutfitters.com

Alltackle 2062 Somerville Rd Annapolis, MD 21401 888-810-7283 alltackle.com

Grapevine Fly Fishing 122 N Main Street Grapevine, Texas 76051 720.453.6878 grapevineflyfishing.com

Forgotten Coast Fly Company 123 Commerce St Apalachicola, FL 32320 850-323-0266 forgottencoastflycompany. com

MASSACHUSETTS

Gruene Outfitters 1265 Industrial Drive Suite C New Braunfels, TX 78130 (830) 625-4440 grueneoutfitters.com

Bass Pro Shops—95 locations in the USA

ORVIS Austin 10000 Research Blvd - B04B Austin TX 78759 512-795-8004 Orvis.com

Field & Stream Stores—35 locations in the USA

ORVIS Houston 5727 Westheimer - Suite A Houston TX 77057 713-783-2111 Orvis.com

BAHAMAS

Mangrove Outfitters 4111 Tamiami Trail E Naples, FL 34112 239-793-3370 mangroveoutfitters.com Ole Florida Fly Shop 6353 N. Federal Hwy Boca Raton, FL 33487 561-995-1929 olefloridaflyshop.com Orlando Outfitters 2814 Corrine Dr Orlando, FL 32803 407-896-8220 orlandooutfitters.com ORVIS Ocean Reef 1 Fishing Village Drive Key Largo FL 33037 305-367-2227 Orvis.com

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The Bear’s Den 34 Robert W. Boyden Rd Taunton, MA 02780 508-977-0700 bearsden.com Kismet Outfitters 204 UPPER MAIN STREET Edgartown, MA 02539 860-944-5225 kismetoutfitters.com MONTANA Frontier Anglers 680 N. Montana St Dillion, MT 59725 406-683-5276 frontieranglers.com NEW YORK River Bay Outfitters 980 Church St Baldwin, NY 11510 516-415-7748 riverbayoutfitters.com

ORVIS Plano Preston Towne Crossing 2412 Preston Road Suite 200 Plano, TX 75093 972-596-7529 Orvis.com ORVIS San Antonio 7427 San Pedro Ave. Suite 104 San Antonio, TX 78216 210-812-3017 Orvis.com

RETAIL CHAINS: Barnes & Noble—630 retail locations in the USA Books-A-Million—260 stores in 32 states

Dick’s Sporting Goods (select locations)—over 700 stores in the USA

Indigo Books—over 200 stores under various banners

Blackfly Lodge Schooner Bay Abaco, Bahamas 904-997-2220 blackflylodge.com CANADA Drift Outfitters & Fly Shop 199 Queen St. East Toronto Ontario M5A-1S2 647-347-7370 Driftoutfitters.com Fish Tales Fly Shop Ltd. #626, 12100 Macleod Trail SE Calgary AB T2J 7G9 Canada 866-640-1273 fishtalesflyshop.com

ON TODAY'S FISHING

MENU INSHORE NEARSHORE OFFSHORE TARPON REDFISH TROUT PERMIT SNOOK DRUM

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MAHI YELLOWFIN BLUEFIN AMBERJACK SAILFISH BLACKFIN

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by Joseph Ballarini Tail Fly Fishing Magazine’s ten-year anniversary calls for something more extensive than a tutorial or pictures of destination boxes. So I’ve made a list of ten flies for ten years, and these selections should always be inside your fly box.

I’ve fished a lot of flies over the years, and I’ve also gained insight from thousands of anglers, hundreds of guides, and dozens of lodge owners. Over the last decade of publishing this magazine, I’ve pooled that information into an extensive meta analysis of fly success. Is it absolute? No. It’s simply a salty fly guy sharing ten years of his observations—and the observations and experiences of others—to try to make everyone’s fishing better.

I’m sure this list will generate debate and maybe a few arguments; I argued with myself while compiling it. I considered dozens of other flies. I didn’t include the EP Spawning Shrimp, Deceiver, Half and Half, Slider, M.O.E., Strong Arm Crab, or Aflexo. Nor did the Chernobyl Crab or Borski Slider make the cut—despite the fact Tim Borski was a major influence on my early fly tying.

You’ll likely have strong opinions about your own favorite producers, and we’d like to hear about it. Send us an email or letter, or follow our Instagram and Facebook pages to weigh in on our digital platforms.

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WHITE EP PEANUT BUTTER If you aren’t familiar with Enrico Puglisi’s Peanut Butter, you either haven’t been fly fishing long or you’re not paying attention. It’s probably one of the most common baitfish patterns in use, sold by almost every fly shop, and has a profile that catches fish in both fresh and salt water. It’s lightweight and easy to cast, swims well, and can be tied in any color combination. I’ve used it to catch striped bass, peacock bass, bluefish, mahi-mahi, marlin, tarpon, redfish, and snook, as well as various shark and trevally species. Solid white is the most versatile, fished as is, or colored with Sharpies to mimic local prey. Other favorite colors are black and purple, and the white belly with blue, green, or tan on top.

VEVERKA’S MANTIS SHRIMP I interviewed the late Bob Veverka about nine years

POP’S BONEFISH BITTERS

ago and asked him about his most widely known fly; his answer kind of surprised me. I’m paraphrasing,

Pop’s Bitters is a time-tested and proven flats fly.

but he basically said that he didn’t like tying a bunch

It’s a little crabby and a little shrimpy, which is why

of shrimp variations and just wanted one that would

both bonefish and permit like it. It’s a great pattern

work everywhere. He also laughed and said it was

for Turneffe in Belize and is comparable to the crab

just luck. Anyone who has ever fished for bonefish

named after the atoll. They’re similar—both have a

has probably used his Mantis. It’s usually the first

small tuft of deer hair, a design element that usually

fly that a guide will select from your box. Permit eat

makes them land hook up—but one slight difference

it, too. I’ve taken bonefish on three continents with

gives the edge to the Bitters: The little bead of epoxy

it, and it’s usually the first fly that I’ll try on flats in

on the body/head gives the fly additional weight,

new destinations. I’ve caught fish with it in Indonesia,

more effectively getting it to the bottom. The Bitters

Maldives, and Australia—on unknown flats, without a

also lands slightly softer, and I like the way it wobbles

guide. Ververka’s shrimp is lightweight, lands softly,

as it makes little sand puffs with each bounce. You

and fish go crazy for the front-focused rubber legs.

can take permit, bones, and even redfish on it, and it’s

My favorite variation is the “ghost” version, a very

also great for triggerfish and sheepshead.

light tan with light barring.

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 25

MARABOU MADNESS Speaking of marabou, Chico Fernandez’s Marabou Madness is another

RAGHEAD CRAB

incredibly versatile pattern. It’s a simple fly made entirely of marabou with a couple of strands of gold flash. It’s the marabou version of the Clouser

I hate crab flies. I tie them

Minnow and EP Peanut Butter—versatile, productive, easy to tie and cast.

because they’re necessary, and

It undulates in the water when stationary and will take tarpon, snook, and

because managing editor Trey

tripletail. I’ve also used a tan version to hook bonefish and a blue-and-white

Reid almost exclusively fishes

version for trevally, but my go-to colors are black and purple. I’ve always

them for permit. The Raghead

assumed the flash added detail, so while recently fishing with Chico, who was

edged out the Chernobyl Crab

throwing a Madness for snook at Ascension Bay, I asked him about it. “I just

and the Merkin mainly because

like it,” he said, looking over his shoulder from the bow and grinning widely. “It

it’s so popular in Belize and

serves no real purpose.” Then he turned around and made another cast.

Mexico. If you show up without a selection of Ragheads in your box, your guide won’t be happy.

The Raghead gets the edge based on its natural materials, including marabou, which makes everything better. You can’t effectively strip crabs— the reason for my disdain—so the fly has to move when it’s stationary. But even when it’s static, the Raghead’s puffy marabou tail (the head of the

CLOUSER MINNOW My home state of Pennsylvania has made many iconic contributions to

crab but the tail of the fly)

culture. One area in central PA has given us Hershey Bars, York Peppermint

sways and undulates, which

Patties, Auntie Anne’s Pretzels . . . and Bob Clouser. The Clouser Minnow

is likely why they’re the most

is the undisputed heavyweight champion of flies. It’s arguably the most

common selection—and one

productive fly in history and can be used successfully on almost every

of the biggest producers—for

species. Not having Clousers in your box is like not having line on your reel.

Caribbean permit.

Enough said.

26 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

TARPON TOAD Gary Merriman’s Tarpon Toad is the fly that led Andy Mill to five Gold Cup Tarpon Tournament wins, cementing his legend in tarpon fly fishing. He still uses them today, and so do a lot of other people. The Toad has taken more tarpon in more places than any tarpon fly in my box. It originally was tied with a bunny strip, but that can get heavy to cast and land hard when wet. Today, both Merriman and Mill prefer the marabou tail, although the rabbit strip is still common, and most commercially produced Toads use the bunny strip. It catches fish everywhere: open water, mangroves, stained water, clear water. It can be tied in various color combinations to mimic shrimp, baitfish, worms, juvenile squid, and jellyfish.

GARTSIDE GURGLER The Gartside Gurgler, developed by Jack Gartside in 1988 for striped bass in Massachusetts, is the quintessential topwater fly. According to legend, Gartside’s original intent was creating a variation of a grasshopper or beetle fly for trout. But its effectiveness on striped bass couldn’t be ignored, and although it’s still useful for many freshwater species, its versatility has made it an integral part of the saltwater fly arsenal. Unlike a popper, the slow-strip retrieve often employed with the Gurgler can mimic shrimp, squid, baitfish, and worms. It can be tied in varying sizes and colors, and varying the tail’s length changes its appearance and action for different presentations. I tie it with a marabou tail, exaggerate the big fold of foam body, and minimize the lip at the hook eye for smoother movement.

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 27

PETERSON’S SPAWNING SHRIMP This is one of my all-time favorite flies and a terrific example of how natural materials and inherent movement can create magic. It’s one of three flies that I use in unexplored or unknown destinations. It’s also my favorite shrimp pattern to tie (and the front half of my own Evolution Shrimp). Design is the key to this producer. The action comes mostly from the front portion, enhanced by the natural movement of the fur used for the top of the body. Like many flies on this list, it moves even when stationary. It’s great for bonefish and permit, but I also tie it on big longshank hooks in lighter colors to use for striped bass and redfish—and for winter tarpon during shrimp runs. With bead chain or other lighter weights, its buoyant materials make it an intermediate fly that sits in the middle of the water column. I use foxtail for both the egg sac and tail, and either foxtail or rabbit for the body.

SPOON FLY In my youth I used a conventional lure called a Kastmaster—a silver oblong ellipse, polished on both sides, with a trailing treble hook. It came in numerous sizes, and fancy versions came with a small clump of white bucktail on the treble. We used them like jerkbaits, reeling it both fast and slow, and something always tried to eat it. The Spoon fly, in my opinion, is the Kastmaster of the fly world. It sinks, it wobbles, and it does everything possible to get a fish’s attention. It’s a go-to fly for redfish along the Gulf Coast, but it’s also effective for northern species like striped bass and bluefish—as well as ambush predators like snook and jacks. The wobble mimics a wounded baitfish when stripped fast and erratically, and it looks crabby when stripped slow. The Spoon is what I reach for when they aren’t eating anything else, regardless of location or species.

28 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 29

Addiction

by Joseph Ballarini On my first cast to a bonefish, on Biscayne Bay near Miami in August 2008, I hooked up.

We rolled out of Black Point Marina, into a skinny-water eel grass flat that was as smooth as melted glass. The sun was starting to surface in its awesome orange glow, illuminating

the grip on my cork handle started to

the horizon. We saw spiders the size

loosen. The cork was indented from

of birds high up in the mangroves in

the raw pressure of my grip, but it

the early morning light; there may

just didn’t seem tight enough, so I just

HUGE FISH AND A BAD KNOT

have been a bird caught in one of the

kept squeezing. My body felt heavier,

I pulled back on the line and set the

webs. What am I doing here?

and there was little I could do about it.

hook on a roughly 7-pound bonefish.

We traveled by canoe through a very

“Twelve o’clock, about 45 feet. See

bend—because I had never had a fish

small creek. It was shallow, muddy,

them?”

of that brawn on it before. With the

it! Set it! set it!”

My rod bent like I had never seen it

smelled like sulfur, and there were

reel screaming, the mighty bone pulled

lots of bugs. What was I thinking this

I did. There were six or seven big

off about 150 feet of line in a blazing

morning?

bonefish right in front of me—tailing.

initial run that only took seconds.

I’d never seen them tail at such short The creek fed into a small cove named

range. This was my chance to catch

“You are the luckiest guy in the

Black Point about 10 miles south

my first bone on a fly. I was excited,

world,” my guide bellowed. “No one

of Miami Beach. As I was admiring

and I could taste success.

catches a bonefish on their first cast.”

the sunrise, just as we entered the

Technically, it was my second cast,

creek mouth onto the flats, the guide

I completely flubbed the first cast,

but it didn’t matter. As quick as the

whispered, “See them? There they are!”

throwing the fly about 20 feet short

fish was hooked, it was gone. My knot

and about 30 feet to the left of the

gave way, leaving a pig-tailed leader

I was nervous—very nervous. I had

school. I picked up my line with a

shooting back at the canoe. I quickly

just started fly fishing after being

water haul, which at that moment I

retrieved my line, and the guide

a bait chucker since age four, and

really didn’t know existed. Somehow,

grabbed it for a closer look.

frankly, my fly casting wasn’t good.

maybe with the adrenaline or just

“I’ll get you closer,” the guide said.

plain luck, I fired a 40-foot laser into

“You need to check your knots, man,”

“Get ready to cast.” My heart was

the center of the small school of

he said. “You just lost a huge fish

racing at about 120 beats per minute.

tailing bones. I saw a flash of silver

because of a knot.”

I felt my palms getting sweaty, and

and heard the guide scream, “He ate

30 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

I had a pit in my stomach, and for the

the distance. There they were—six or

first time since I was four years old, I

seven bonefish tailing in about a foot

didn’t want to fish anymore. That was

of water on an eel grass flat. They

probably good, because there weren’t

were fat and happy. It almost looked

any more fish that morning. I felt like a

like the same school as that first

complete failure, but there was a part

connection, but the chance of that

of me that thought I could do it again.

was virtually nonexistent.

The optimism kept me coming back.

HERE WE GO AGAIN

Finally, near Matheson Hammock in

I pole with a rope looped around my

Miami, it happened again. It was the

wrist. The rope is tied to the anchor

same scenario, but I had been fishing

line, which allows me to loop the rope

without a guide for about a week. I launched my kayak from the public

around my push pole and gently drop it behind the kayak to drag behind my beach on a pebble shore which wasn’t

vessel, well out of the way. I pushed

far from a channel. It was overcast

hard one more time to get into a

and warm for the time of year, the

better position.

tides were very dramatic, and there was rain on the horizon. Only lightning

I looped my rope, dropped the pole,

would make me leave the flats,

picked up the fly rod, and attempted

especially after waking up at 4:30

to visualize my attack.

a.m. to get on the water by sunrise.

But indeed, there was lightning amid

This time I was ready. Calmer, more

the rain on the distant horizon. I

experienced, and a much better

didn’t have much time. My favorite

caster, but still no bones to date,

8-weight was ready, handle at my feet

so the nervousness persisted to a

with the tip off the bow. This time I

significant degree. In this moment,

tied my own leader and checked my

you just accept the tachycardia and

knots twice. I even tied my own fly,

sweaty palms, knowing that the hunt

Peterson’s Spawning Shrimp, my go-to

is on.

bonefish fly at the time.

I began my cast, very sloppy and too While poling my kayak over a deep

fast on the backcast, which seems to

boat channel, I saw something in

be the norm while casting when fish

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 31

Then it stopped suddenly. My heart

Within five minutes, my leader was to

sank as I thought the fish was lost.

the tip, and I had a bonefish—my first

In frustration, I began to reel as fast

bonefish—to the side of the kayak. He

as my hand could move and watched

had surrendered. Soaking wet from

the kayak start to drift toward the

the rain, not remotely concerned

direction of the fish’s run. It was still

about the lightning, I pulled him

on. In a few minutes I had retrieved

out of the water, so excited that I

my backing and was back to fly line,

dropped my rod in the water. But it

but at that point the resting fish

didn’t matter.

recovered.

There it was—mirrored silver scales, are actually present. I threw a 35-foot

Another screaming run began and

blackish green stripes, unrealistic

lob that hit the water like a rock,

soon put me back into holy crap

pink lips, and my Peterson’s Spawning

just to the right of the tailing fish.

territory. I noticed that the lightning,

Shrimp stuck in its top lip. It was

Fortunately, they were just starting to

which had been far off on the

slippery, slimy, and stinky, but it was

move right. Sometimes it’s better to

horizon, was much closer, and rain

a bonefish, caught on a fly, finally, in

be lucky than good.

began to fall. I was standing on a

my hands.

kayak in Biscayne Bay in a lightning There was almost no light, so little

storm fighting a bonefish that just

It was glorious. The most beautiful

that I was surprised I saw them in

wouldn’t make it easy. I debated

fish I had ever seen. I just stared at

the first place. I couldn’t see what

whether I should break it off and

it, taking in the details for too long

was going on, but before I could

head for shore, but my ego got the

before realizing it was raining hard,

react, something took the fly, and a

best of me, and I refused to let it go.

there was lightning nearby, and this

fish was on.

I was tired of failure and frustration,

poor bonefish couldn’t breathe. I lunged

and I was going for broke. Succeed or

for the camera for a quick photo, but

Again the rod had a ferocious bend

die trying, which in retrospect was

to my dismay the battery was dead.

and a crazy bounce. But this one

incredibly stupid.

Adding more insult, I dropped the fish

wasn’t as big as that first hooked

in the water and stepped on the fly. I

bonefish. It took off into the boat

I started to pressure the fish hard.

channel that I had just crossed, and

Really hard. I was expecting him

before I knew it, it was well into the

to break off at any moment and

One rookie mistake after another.

holy crap part of my backing. Over

become another “almost” story. To

But after months of frustration,

250 feet of backing was gone, and

my amazement, however, he began to

repeated failure, and countless hours

at no point did I have any control of

wilt. He lost his mojo and any desire

of research and investigation, I had

the fish.

to fight. Again, my heart raced. I could

just caught my first bonefish on a fly.

taste success.

I soon realized this was more than an

32 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

can be such a bonehead.

obsession. Perseverance in the face of

Well, I found other fish, plenty of

without reading hundreds of pages

constant failure and determination to

them: tarpon, permit, snook, tuna,

and rooting through piles of garbage.

succeed had turned my obsession into

shark, barracuda, billfish, and

The internet was full of information

a healthy addiction.

roosterfish. There are milkfish, trevally

that was mostly unorganized,

and queen fish in Australia. There

incomplete, and inaccurate, and there

I still had so many questions. Why was

are fish similar to permit in Asia, as

were a lot of people masquerading as

it so hard to find good information

well as a fish in the Indo-Pacific called

authorities.

about fly fishing in salt water? Why

snub-nose pompano. Hawaii has giant

did it take me more than six months to

bonefish. There are many targets

I remember searching for “bonefish

land a bonefish when I’d been

for fly anglers. Each one requires

fly” and getting results for nymph

fishing my whole life? Where are other

a fair amount of knowledge and

fishing in Pennsylvania.

places to fish? What other species are

competence.

as challenging? Where can I get really

Trout fishing is fun, but I wanted to

solid advice and real data? I didn’t

So my search for competence began,

learn about saltwater fly fishing and

have any answers. Then it hit me. I’m a

emphasis on “search.” There were

get better at it.

bonehead . . . a fly fish bonehead.

hundreds if not thousands of websites for fly fishing. To my dismay, most

I wanted to learn how to fly fish

of them were utterly useless. I found

effectively in salt water for the top

While heading back to my truck,

plenty of dead links and lots of self-

ten or 15 species. One fish in six

riding the high of catching my first

serving information that was just

months—that’s not fun, but it was a

bonefish on a fly, lingering questions

trying to sell products or book a trip.

learning process. I was done putting in

A QUEST IN EARNEST

substantially limited my joy. My father

time and paying dues. The addiction

had me out fishing since I was four; it

My research and quest for knowledge

had taken over now; I wanted to hunt

was something I had been doing my

was stymied by a glaring lack of good

for fish, not information.

entire life. Why did I have such a hard

information. I wanted data on species,

time catching a bonefish? Was this

migration patterns, typical foods,

For the next 18 months, I researched

the pinnacle of my fishing experience?

which flies mimicked which foods,

saltwater fly fishing information and

Are other fish going to be as difficult?

destinations, weather conditions,

began to create a database. I fished

What other fish are out there?

and tides. It was stuff I couldn’t find

with every captain that I could from

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 33

Florida to the eastern Caribbean, from

important, an understanding of how

guardian of the ecosystems the

California to Australia, and made

to read water and how to read fish.

fish inhabit. I wanted to make

notes and took photos and video. My

During my travels and time on the

people aware of the problem and do

travels took me to the Florida Keys,

water, perhaps the biggest thing I

something to help support the trusts

Panama, Costa Rica, Mexico, California,

learned was that our waters are in

that study and protect the waters and

Australia, the Bahamas, the Windward

trouble. It was all too common to hear

species.

Islands—anywhere to learn. And I did

captains talk about how plentiful the

just that.

oceans used to be.

I practiced casting and specific

Seeing debris washed up on scenic

Flyfishbonehead. “Hunt for fish,

techniques for casting in wind and less

Caribbean beaches and even in

not information.” That’s catchy, but

desirable conditions. I began studying

Biscayne Bay, polluting the system

there’s a bigger goal. Let’s create

the art of fly tying and collected flies

and endangering the wildlife, was

awareness of dangers posed to our

from all over the world.

troubling. Rips and scars in the sea

ecosystems. Perhaps we can create

AND SO IT BEGAN This was the catalyst for

grass and on manatees from the

a global network of members, and

My science background enabled

carelessness of recreational motor

maybe this network can make a

me to search data, organize it,

boaters. It’s just a matter of time

difference.

and understand it. It became more

before it’s all gone.

What if I could create a website with

of a study of the species and the ecosystems that they inhabit

Every time I go out fishing on the

accurate, organized information that

rather than a fly fishing study. If

kayak, I come home with a bag of

promotes the sport of fly fishing in

you understand the behavior of the

trash. Not my trash, but trash that

salt water and supports the charitable

fish, then you understand how to

was floating in our water that I

trusts that support the ecosystems?

target and hunt for that fish. If you

collected for proper disposal. I can’t

know a species’ migration patterns,

tell you how many beer bottles, plastic

for example, why would you need a

bags, and chunks of Styrofoam I’ve

fishing calendar?

collected.

So I did.

In 2010, I started organizing my database and planning a website. I

I gathered a lot of solid knowledge

I found that not only was I becoming

had thousands of photos and hours

from all of that traveling, as well

a knowledgeable fly fisherman, but

of video: tuna, blue marlin, sailfish,

as many tips and tricks, and most

also an informed and very concerned

roosterfish, all kinds of sharks,

34 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

it was another year until Tail Fly Fishing Magazine launched in August 2012 during the beta trial of Flyfishbonehead.com.

In September 2012, the beta tag came off, and Flyfishbonehead.com striped bass, weakfish, bluefish,

created Flyfishbonehead.com and

was finally officially launched. My

tarpon, bonefish, trevally. I had so

Tail Fly Fishing Magazine.

addiction was fly fishing for bonefish,

much information to sort. It was

but now it has become fly fishing and

overwhelming at first, but after a few

Little did I know how insanely difficult

also making sure future generations

years and many terabytes of storage,

it was going to be to launch a website

of fly anglers get to enjoy the same

it’s now somewhat manageable. And

and magazine. With so many details,

waters and experiences that we now

I’ve kept fishing and traveling.

countless considerations, photos and

enjoy. Perhaps together, as a global fly

videos to edit and process, writing

fishing community, we can even make

My friends and fishing buddies were

copy, and verifying copy to ensure

it better.

initially a bit concerned about my

accuracy, there wasn’t enough time

“addiction.” They later recognized

in the day to get everything done. We

I still remember catching that first

that it had become a healthy outlet

wanted it to be great; everything had

bonefish. Almost getting struck by

for the good of the sport and the

to be perfect. But it didn’t work out

lightning. Dropping a Sage rod in the

environment, and they began to help.

that way.

bay. Stepping on the fly and hooking

Like old college buddies chanting

my foot. I’m a bone head . . . a fly fish

“chug, chug, chug,” they kept me

We were almost a month behind

bonehead. You’d think that would’ve

moving forward and contributed as

schedule, and due to some major

been enough to make me quit. But

much as they could, and in 2011, we

obstacles and a few failed designs,

addiction is a very strange thing.

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 35

c u a r da r a b d own k a e r b 36 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

by Chico Fernandez Big barracudas have always been

hooked up, and schools of bonefish

short runs, 20 yards or so, and then

where racing all over the flats as far

made the most spectacular jump I

as I could see. It was fun to watch.

can ever remember out of a ‘cuda. It

one of my favorite fly rod fish—so

was a long jump that had to be more

much so that I’ve always made an

Then I saw a very large dark fish in

effort to have a fully rigged rod in

the distance. It was following one of

case I run into one while fishing for

the schools of bonefish. I couldn’t see

But a few minutes into the fight,

bonefish or permit. And if the area

it well enough, but it was either a

the ‘cuda decided to leave the flat

warrants it, I’ll fish exclusively for

shark or a large barracuda.

and headed for the deep dropoff at

them all day long.

than 20 feet. I’ll never forget it.

high speed. There was nothing I could I had a feeling it was a ‘cuda. So I

do about it except wade after the

To date, I’ve taken seven large

grabbed my 9-weight rod with an old

fish as fast as I could, which wasn’t

‘cudas that were close to 30 pounds

Seamaster Mark II and a ‘cuda fly

very fast, so I was quickly losing

or larger. I remember how many

with No. 4 wire. I had been looking all

line. Meanwhile, the ‘cuda got to the

because those catches are very

trip long for that big barracuda, and

edge of the dropoff, only a few feet

significant and exciting to me. Only

this could be my chance.

from the staked out panga, and kept

snook more than 20 pounds fall into

going. Several of the anglers and the

that category for me. Let me share

I got off the panga, and once on the

guides saw her go by. The next time

my most memorable ‘cuda catch.

hard sand, I had to wade a long time

it jumped, it was an estimated 150 yards away. The big fish was running infinitely faster than I could move by wading.

I kept losing line, and by the time I got to the panga, I could see the bottom of the reel with only a few turns of backing left on it. It was a big effort to climb on the panga’s tall freeboard, but as soon as I did, the engine was running and we were chasing the ‘cuda.

before I got within casting range.

In the winter of 1988, I hosted a

And then I could see it clearly; it was

trip of 12 anglers to Los Roques,

a big ‘cuda. My heart was pumping,

Venezuela. Fishing was fantastic in

my throat was dry, and I have to

those days. On the last day of the

admit that I was nervous.

trip, four of us rode a 24-foot panga to a large sandy flat that had a very

It wasn’t too windy, and I was up

sharp dropoff at one end. There were

wind of the fish anyway, so it was

schools of bonefish everywhere,

a fairly easy 60-foot cast. The fly

so my anglers got off and started

landed 8 or 10 feet from the fish.

wading after them right away. I

The ‘cuda was excited upon seeing

stayed on the panga, eating half a

the fly, but still, as usual, followed

sandwich while standing on the tip

the fly halfway to me before taking

end of the bow. Soon, everyone was

it. Once hooked, it made a couple of

Now I could start to gain line—very slowly since the reel’s arbor was about the size of a quarter. But eventually I was back in the fly line, and by then the fish had sounded, so now it was just a matter of time.

Eventually, I was able to bring the fish to the boat and land it. It tipped the guide’s old scale to 34 pounds.

And as I held it for a few quick photos, I knew I would never forget this fish. Not even if I ever caught a bigger one. Which I haven’t.

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 37

For pure excitement in shallow water, fly fishing for big barracudas is hard to beat. You are looking for this big alligator-like, sinisterlooking fish, often sitting still on the water’s surface. It’s exciting when you finally spot one.

Then, when it chases the fly, it will be pushing a big wake behind it.

Equally visible is the strike, often very fast and with a big splash and lots of foam. The whole thing has vicious written all over. Because the barracuda is big and fast, it has the ability to make some long runs. And a large ‘cuda is capable of some of the most spectacular jumps you’ll ever see. They can be very high as well as very long, and all this happens as your reel is screaming. Tarpon also can make spectacular jumps, of course, but ‘cuda jumps have their own personality. It’s different. It’s cool.

There are times when the barracuda decides to turn right or left in the middle of a run, and now your fly line starts to cut through the water, leaving a big tail of foam. It’s a sight you won’t soon forget.

A big barracuda is probably the most underrated gamefish in the bonefish flats—a truly unsung hero.

On the other hand, sight casting to a big ‘cuda in shallow water is not easy, and that, too, makes it exciting Sphyraena barracuda is commonly known as the great barracuda. The extent of its worldwide habitat is phenomenal. They can be found from extremely shallow bonefish flats to reef areas and open ocean. I’ve taken them in a foot of water, trolling in blue water for marlin and dolphin,

38 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

and right on the bottom in more

Behind me, the flat dropped off

than 200 feet of water while deep

to perhaps 3 feet. I had been busy

jigging for grouper and snapper. They

stalking the school of bones, trying to

go anywhere they want.

get in position to cast. I don’t know why, but something made me look

And they grow large. The largest on

behind me, and when I did, I found

record is 102 pounds, taken in Africa.

myself looking at a giant barracuda

But fishing the flats today, one close

only 20 feet away. It was right on

to 20 pounds is a good one, and 30 or

the surface, looking straight at me.

larger is a trophy.

Our eyes met. Neither the ‘cuda nor I moved a muscle.

More than 40 years ago, I was wading after a school of bonefish on the

This went on for a few seconds, and

south end of Turneffe Atoll in Belize.

then, almost instinctively, I cast the

bonefish fly and passed it by the fish. It never acknowledged the cast or the fly; it just kept looking at me, obviously not afraid. I was not as confident; the fish intimidated me.

Finally, after what seemed like a long time, it slowly sank to the bottom, where I could still easily see it. It was big, fat, and dark. Forgetting all about the bonefish school, I then decided to back off slowly and head to shore, where I waited for the skiff to come get me. I honestly believe the ‘cuda was bigger than 60 pounds.

Later that evening at the camp, when I told my story over drinks, a couple of the old guides told me they also had seen the fish. I still think about it.

BEST TIME OF YEAR Barracuda don’t like hot weather, so the best time of the year for them is late fall through early spring in most places where I’ve fished, including the Bahamas and Florida.

“The best time is during colder weather, because it brings baitfish to shallow water and the ‘cudas follow them,” says Captain Alex Zapata, who loves to fish for them from Miami down through the Florida Keys. “My favorite months are February to April. November through January are also good months, providing there isn’t a severe cold front. Then everything can shut down.”

LOOKING FOR BIG ‘CUDAS Good areas include deeper flats, like the areas you would fish for permit.

Any light-bottom pothole is always a good place to check out.

Shallow wrecks or markers, even in 10 to 20 feet of water, also will have big ‘cudas, often visible right on the surface. And when I can’t find them, another good bet is blind casting in channels around the flats, especially

takes the fly. With a shorter cast, the fish following the fly will often see the boat before making up its mind to take the fly. Then it’s all over.

You want to cast a leader’s length beyond the fish so that the fly passes 5 to 8 feet from it. That’s ideal.

THE RETRIEVE As a rule, ‘cudas like the fly to be moving fast. Remember that you’re

on outgoing tides.

using a fly that imitates a baitfish,

In the Bahamas one of my favorite

trying to escape a predator. It usually

places to look for big ‘cudas are areas with large schools of small bonefish, especially if it’s an outside flat closer to deep water. Some of the biggest ‘cudas I see in the flats are in those conditions.

“In the Keys, I love a strong incoming tide because it pushes the baitfish into the flats, and the big ‘cudas

which moves very fast when it’s can’t be too fast. I mostly use a onehand retrieve because it’s faster than a two-hand retrieve, at least for me.

And always keep the tip of the rod close to the water.

But Captain Paul Tejera mentions a situation where a two-hand retrieve makes sense. “I use a one-hand retrieve also, but there are situations,

follow them,” Zapata says.

such as using a popper or casting to

APPROACH AND FLY PLACEMENT

where a steady mid-speed retrieve is

This type of fishing is about making long casts—the longer the better.

Large barracuda are very worrisome animals, and they won’t let you get close. And if they do, they simply won’t take the fly. Another reason for the long cast is that ‘cudas have the habit of following a fly for a long time before taking it. A long cast gives a ‘cuda plenty of room before it

‘cudas sitting on a strong current, called for,” he says. “Then I prefer a two-hand retrieve”.

HOOK-UP As with most situations, you need to strip-strike. But often the cuda will take the fly fast, while still coming toward you, creating lots of slack.

In this case, you need to use both the strip strike and a rod strike to

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 39

absorb the extra slack and be able to

fish before you let it go. Sharks are

set the hook.

usually nearby.

CLEARING LINE AND THE FIGHT

BARRACUDA FLIES

A big ‘cuda can move very fast,

When selecting a fly for big

especially in short bursts—like a

barracudas, remember you have

cheetah. So when you set the hook,

to be able to cast it far, generally

be ready to see your fly line leave the

in the wind, and with some degree

deck lightning fast. Also, keep the rod

of accuracy. So don’t be tempted

tip low to the water when clearing

to select a fly that is too big or too

the line. It reduces the possibility of

bulky. I prefer a short-shank hook

any slack, and helps keep tension on

to a long shank because they are

the line.

lighter for the same size gap and have better hooking capabilities.

The fight in the flats won’t be long;

But certain streamer and popper

those super-fast runs and acrobatic

patterns that I like require a long-

jumps soon take their toll. The same

shank hook, so I still use them when I

fish in deep water will fight a bit

can afford to accept the trade-off.

longer, but still not real long.

I like that philosophy. Be careful,

Stinger hooks—adding a second

however, because a barracuda can

hook to the fly—can be effective.

By the time a big ‘cuda is next to the

cut you to ribbons. If you are with a

Barracuda often strike in the middle

boat, it is exhausted. I much prefer

guide, let the guide handle the fish.

of the fly, trying to cut the fish in

to handle them by hand as opposed

Using gloves may also help. And to

half, causing them to miss the main

to lifting them by lip-gaffing, which is

remove the hook, I always use one of

hook up front. But these flies are

not good for any fish.

the many long tools available for the

heavier, so it’s harder to make that

task. Just be careful.

long cast that is so important. I

LAND AND RELEASE

“I handle the big ‘cuda like it’s a bonefish,” Tejera says.

40 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

also don’t think these flies swim as Finally, take your time reviving the

naturally, so you get more refusals,

especially in areas that have a lot of

you can try a clear weight-forward

one while fishing for bonefish or

pressure. Personally, I don’t use them.

floating line so that the line is less

some other species, there’s no time

visible to the fish. You may not be

to take out a heavier rod, check the

When selecting a fly, just remember

able to see the fly line in the air as

leader, find the wire, tie it to the

that a big ‘cuda’s diet is mainly fish,

well, but the big fly would be easy

tippet, and so on. There’s just not

not shrimp or crabs. Good choices are

to see during the false casting, and

enough time.

the classic baitfish patterns with big

that’s good enough. I often use them

eyes in a variety of light colors with

with good results. And they’re perfect

But if you have a 9- or 10-weight fully

a darker back. I also love an all-white,

for blind casting.

rigged and ready, it’s just a matter

all-orange, or all-chartreuse fly. All

of dropping the bonefish rod, taking

patterns should have some flash as

LEADERS

out the cuda rod, and starting your

an attractor. In terms of size, most

A 10-foot leader with more than 50

false cast.

of my big ‘cuda flies are about 5 to 6

percent butt section will perform

inches in length.

well, although I usually prefer 60

If you are committed to barracuda

percent butt section. If the fish are

fishing and not concerned with other

Another popular pattern is tied with

spooky and you’re a good caster, go

species, then I suggest having two

braided hair, long and skinny, often

to a 12-foot leader, or better yet, go

rods rigged with different flies—

on a long-shank hook. It may have

to a clear floating fly line. Tippets

maybe a streamer on one rod and

painted eyes and epoxy on the front

from 12 to 20 pounds are ideal. My

a popper on another. When you get

of the hook. It has taken lots of

preference is usually 16 pounds.

to a deep channel that looks good,

‘cudas over the years. But somehow

take out the popper and ring the The wire bite tippet can be plain No.

dinner bell. When you go back to a

4 or No. 5 wire or any of the plastic-

shallow area, it may be preferable to

I also like a long popper, especially for

coated cables that can be tied like

go back to the streamer fly. And if

blind casting in deeper flats, channels,

monofilament. They both work. But

you get a refusal, you can quickly pick

or around shallow-water wrecks. A

don’t use a very long bite tippet,

up the other rod and offer the fish

popper is a great dinner bell.

because it’s harder to cast and you’ll

something different.

it’s not my first choice.

get more refusals, especially from

FLY ROD, REEL, AND LINE

the bigger fish. My wire bite tippet

EATING BARRACUDAS?

I like 9- and 10-weight rods because

is usually 4 to 7 inches, depending

If you are considering a barracuda

their fly lines are heavy enough

on conditions. That’s usually long

to eat, keep in mind that ciguatera

to cast the weight of a big fly and

enough that the ‘cuda probably won’t

poisoning is an issue. It occurs more

wire bite tippet a long distance, but

get to the mono tippet if it swallows

often in larger fish, but can also be

they’re still light enough that I can

the fly, but light enough that I can

present in smaller fish. Ciguatera

cast them all day if needed.

still make a long cast. If conditions

poisoning is caused by eating a

are making it tough for me to make

fish that contains toxins from a

Any reel that balances with a

the long cast, I’ll usually reduce the

marine mircoalgae. People who have

9-weight or 10-weight is going to

wire’s length to 4 inches to reduce

ciguatera may experience nausea,

have more than 200 yards of backing,

weight.

vomiting, and neurological symptoms

which is more than enough to stop most barracuda.

such as tingling in the extremities.

BE PREPARED

Symptoms usually go away in a few

If you really want to catch a big

days or weeks, but sometimes they

A weight-forward floating line is all

barracuda, the most important

can last for years. Ciguatera has no

you need. If you are a good caster

advice—besides practicing a long

cure, but it can be treated.

and can carry a lot of line in the air,

cast—is to have a rod in the boat

then a line with a long belly would

rigged and ready strictly for

My advice is to release the ‘cuda and

help you make longer casts. Also,

barracuda. Generally, when you see

eat a mangrove snapper.

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 41

GEAR GUIDE SCIENTIFIC ANGLERS REGULATOR SPOOL

Switching out fly lines from reels and spare spools and keeping them tidy and organized is a headache all fly anglers experience. Well, Scientific Anglers just made our lives a little less complicated. The Regulator Line Winder is an ingenious device that allows seamless line removal and storage in kink-free coils. Its retractable inner pegs fold in once the line is wound, and notches in the housing keep pipe-cleaner twist-ties in place to secure the line in a neat bundle. The housing disassembles with an easy twist, retracting the inner pegs, and voilá, your wound

LOON QUICKDRAW ROD SLEEVE AND ERGO QUICK RELEASE

Loon Outdoors has been making industry standard fly-tying tools and adhesives for more than 20 years, but if we thought fly tying was their only bag, we’d be wrong. Loon has released a number of cool gadgets that we think fly rod owners will love as much as we do. One of our favorites, the Quickdraw Rod Sleeve, allows anglers to store rods fully rigged and ready to go. It ensures the rod’s finish, guides, and lines won’t get damaged, whether they’re on the floor of a skiff or in the back of a truck. It’s a great way to keep multiple rigged rods from having their lines become twisted when walking out to the boat or through the woods. They’re available in a variety of sizes and lengths, easy to use, and take up very little space in a boat bag. The Ergo Quick Release is a hook-removal tool with just the right angles and edges. It allows an angler to efficiently unhook landed fish with minimal handling. While there are many similar products out there, we really like this tool’s ergonomic handle, durable stainless construction, and versatility. We also appreciate its ability to handle a variety of hook sizes and flies. $13 and $19 (loonoutdoors.com)

42 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

line is perfectly delivered. Its light, compact design makes it an easy addition on travel trips. And with no metal parts, it’s completely saltwater-proof. Our only suggestion would be another model with a bigger overall diameter, as many prefer to store lines less-tightly wound to prevent memory. $29.95 (scientificanglers.com)

MACKENZIE’S HAND SCRUB AND SALVE

The folks at MacKenzie’s like to say that this stuff will liberate the stinkiest of blood, scales, and slime from hands. And even though fly anglers aren’t usually handling bait and bloodying fish, we all can benefit from this hand soap’s perfect blend of scouring walnut husks and pleasant deodorizing essential oils.

FISHPOND THUNDERHEAD BACKPACK

Most of us know Fishpond for its impeccably made products with unique design features. They’re made to tackle some of the harshest environments an angler can expect to encounter. The redesigned and updated Thunderhead series of packs and slings certainly lives up to demanding standards. We finally had a chance to put the fully submersible backpack through its paces. The biggest brother of them all did not disappoint. The pack’s sheer toughness is impossible to overlook. Being made from 1680D TPU coated nylon, it looks and feels bombproof. What really sets it apart from its competitors is the waterproof TIZIP zipper closure system. While other packs utilize a roll-top enclosure, the Thun-

Whether oil and grime embedded from a garage project or garlic/onion essence from the preparation of a fresh fish dinner, Mackenzie’s will keep hands feeling smooth and smelling fresh. Their hand salve is able to tackle the driest cracked palms and fingers. We keep a supply at the kitchen sink and the boat bag—and use it regularly. $9.95-$46.95 (fishermanhandscrub.com)

derhead zipper offers conventional top access using finger loops on either end to slide the mechanism. It just feels completely impenetrable, and on our tests in the elements, it was. Like most waterproof gear, the backpack has a simple interior. The only extra storage is a removable zipper pocket for small items like cell phone or wallet. The exterior, however, has a number of gear attachments and ergonomic—and surprisingly comfortable—shoulder and hip straps. It can be integrated with other Fishpond products like the chest pack. It also has attachment points for Fishpond’s Quickshot Rod Holder for wet wading with multiple rods. The Thunderhead Submersible is a versatile, highly durable backpack that maintains comfort and fishability while offering uncompromising protection from the elements. Thumbs up! $299.95 (fishpond.com)

TAIL TAIL FLY FLYFISHING FISHING MAGAZINE MAGAZINE 43

GEAR GUIDE SKWALA FISHING

Skwala Fishing, based in southwestern Montana, is a fledgling apparel and gear company focused on fly fishing. The founders bring years of high-level industry experience and meticulous attention to detail to their design features. We couldn’t be more excited about a new player in the business and welcome the fresh perspective on products we all use on the water. We recently got our hands on two items in their Sol Collection: the Sol Tactical Hoody and the Sol Wading Pant. The durability and quality design hooked us first. These feel like huge upgrades from the average solar shirts and pants. The hoody has moisture-wicking, quick-drying breathable fabric and 50 UPF sun protection that we’ve come to expect from high-end products. But these items stand out from the crowd because of unique features like the Primeflex™ ultra-durable fabric in high-wear areas and low-profile pockets in key areas that don’t compromise mobility. Likewise, the wet-wading pants are made from a unique microporous fabric that feels solid enough to slog through the flats all day but light and liberating enough to remain comfortable and unobtrusive. Skwala also offers a full line of fishing jackets and waders, and we look forward to field testing them. $119 each (skwalafishing.com)

MONIC PHANTOM TIP - PERMIT

Readers know we like Monic lines because they’re made in the USA and PVC-free. They’re also really great lines. The Phantom Tip permit taper employs a gradual head and 15 feet of clear tip for a delicate and stealthy presentation. The head design allows for a more delicate presentation on long casts, while 20 feet of belly provides the ability to make that cast. We’ve found that the sweet spot for casting this line is about 35-40 feet, which coincides with the last part of the belly. $119.99 44 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

(monic.com)

WILKIE BRAND MESA 5

Wilkie Brand shirts may not be typical fly fishing gear, but they are essential for making an impact when arriving in a tropical airport for a week of fishing with friends. Sure, most anglers will arrive in typical high-performance fishing shirts, but stepping onto the tarmac in the dark grey, short-sleeved western shirt with the tan Hawaiian-pattern yoke will immediately get a fisherman into the proper island state of mind. Don’t be afraid to fish for ditch tarpon after dinner in this 65/35 cotton-poly blend shirt with snazzy pearl snaps. It’s an article of clothing that won’t be too badly wrinkled after it’s been stuffed in a duffle in the overhead. We like to couple it with a shapablebrim, raffia straw Stetson, but we’ll skip that review since our fishing buddies no longer allow it on the boat (too many windy mishaps while flying across the flats in search of big bonefish).

We highly recommend this shirt for the discerning traveler who likes to make a splash. $59 (wilkiebrand.com)

TOADFISH NON-TIPPING 10-OUNCE WINE TUMBLER There’s a lot going on with the Toadfish® Non-Tipping 10-ounce Wine Tumbler, including a couple of features that make this vessel completely different from others we’ve seen or used. The first is the SmartGrip® technology that keeps the cup upright even in the choppiest sees. It’s a suction system that can be stuck to any smooth surface such as the fiberglass on a skiff. The system’s upside is also its downside—it sticks hard. While great on the boat, be careful with that glass-top coffee table in the lodge.

The other great feature is the glass insert. The company says the insert is designed to enhance the aroma of wine, but we use it exclusively as a convenient container for bourbon, tequila, or mezcal. We wish the lid was a bit more leak resistant, but overall, this is a great boat cup that will not tip over. $24 (toadfish.com)

ORVIS FLATS HIKER (SPRING 2023)

These are without a doubt the best flats shoes to hit the market in a long while. The Flats Hiker is like a sneaker with a built-in raincoat. This stylish shoe has a top layer covering the actual protective shoe within. The Michelin soles are flexible and have a non-slip tire tread, making them feel good when walking as well. Zip open the outer layer to reveal a well-padded and comfortable sneaker-type shoe on the inside. Theres’ a wide-grip handle on the heel that makes them easy to pull on, accommodating even the thickest fingers. The laces are hunting-boot style and loosen easily even when wet. Once on and laced up, zip the outer layer and adjust the velcro closure at the top to your preference of tightness around the sock or lower leg. A very well-designed and comfortable flats shoe—something we all needed. $249 (orvis.com)

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 45

GEAR GUIDE TORNADO ANCHORS

Designed for river beds, this handmade anchor is also quite handy on the flats. While it was designed to adjust to the constantly changing bottom of stone river beds, we asked to try one in the salt. We didn’t think this style of anchor would hold a skiff in a strong current or high winds, but it surprised us. The Tornado will plane a bit if dragged. This adds resistance and allows for the shifting plates to grab and catch.

It actually grabs in sand pretty well, even better on softer bottoms, and best on hard bottoms. It didn’t get caught up in underwater debris nearly as often as traditional anchors, but it did hang up once (all anchors do at some point). The best part is it’s easy to rinse and store and has far better aesthetics than other anchors. It you’re looking for a better anchor, check out the Tornado. The 24- to 45-pound models should be sufficient for most skiffs, and you can also add the “Anchor Nest,” which is a nice storage box to fit in your hatch, for an additional charge. $160-$250 (tornadoanchorsusa.com)

TERVIS TUMBLER

Tervis is a third-generation, American-owned-andoperated company known for durable drinkware with great insulation properties. The company’s 20-ounce and 30-ounce stainless tumblers are not unlike those offered by their competitors, who are perhaps more recognizable to the average consumer these days. But we think Tervis offers a great alternative at significant savings.

They promise their tumbler’s double-walled design will keep beverages hot for up to 8 hours or cold for 24. We did our own overnight ice-water test with a big-name tumbler and found the melt rate basically identical. We especially love the look and feel of the tarpon, redfish, and mahi-mahi skin prints—reason enough to own a new Tervis Tumbler. $27.99 (tervis.com)

46 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

VANNKRIGER SOLAR STEALTH PERFORMANCE SHIRT

In a virtual sea of apparel for anglers and outsiders in general, some are well done while many are . . . well, let’s just say some are well done. Vannkriger is a new entry in performance wear, and they got a lot of things right. The rolled double-stitched seams and sleeves are aesthetically appealing and very comfortable on sticky summer days. The “athletic” fit is accurate, so you’ll have to suck in that gut for your grip-and-grin. The sleeves are a little long, providing an extra bit of sun protection. It’s definitely not your standard tech shirt, and it’s a very good value. $45 (vannkriger.com)

SKULLCANDY CRUSHER EVO WIRELESS HEADPHONE

As fly anglers, we sometimes subject ourselves to long flights to get to the remote destinations required for bucket-list fish. A crying baby or overly talkative neighbor in the seat next to us can make a long day of travel even longer. The Skullcandy Crusher line is a noise-suppressing headphone that performs very well at a lower price point than some of the better-known brands in the highfidelity space. One of the more impressive features is the 40-hour battery life that’s coupled with rapid-charging technology. The expanded bass is great for the island music we like when traveling to the Caribbean, and the ear cups are very comfortable. One of my favorite additions to this product is the Tile finding technology, which is great if you’re like us and constantly losing things. Very nice headphones for the price. $199 (skullcandy.com)

FISH HIPPIE DRIFT PERFORMANCE SHORT

The Fish Hippie Drift Performance Short is lightweight and quick-drying, constructed from 93 percent nylon and 7 percent spandex. The shorts have a decent amount of stretch but still hold their shape well. The company has been very responsive to minor flaws we’ve encountered, and they stand behind their products. One pair had some loose stitching after months of hard wear, and Fish Hippie quickly replaced them. These shorts make great fishing or hiking shorts because of a high level of comfort and ability to dry quickly, but they can double as dressier shorts if necessary. $88 (fishhippie.com)

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 47

WIDE 48 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

OPEN

by Gilbert Rowley

point that, pound for pound, it has

If you can’t tell already, I’m a trout

more power than possibly any other

guy from the West who’s slowly gain-

I never imagined my first saltwater

species in the ocean. I always pic-

ing experience in the salt. My percep-

fish on a fly would be a yellowfin

tured myself in a bonefish kiddie pool

tions are proving to be far from reality

tuna. Never would I have thought of

somewhere, casting to tailing fish

on many levels; I’m not even sure if

myself hooking up with a fish that

that also have great power but on a

there exists a place equivalent to a

has been genetically blessed to the

much smaller scale.

bonefish kiddie pool. But this article

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 49

isn’t just about my saltwater angling dreams, but rather the experience of creating a story through film that would portray the beauty, strength, and pure awesomeness of not only these fish, but also the efforts needed to pursue such creatures.

THE ADVENTURE In Southern California off the coast of San Diego, I’ve teamed up with Captain Mark Martin of San Diego Saltwater Fly Fishing, and his good friend Alex Beck, both of whom are seasoned bluewater anglers who really know their stuff when it comes to chasing pelagics. My primary mission is to capture footage and document their experience. After leaving the wake-free zone, Mark throttles down his 200 horsepower outboard in the direction his instincts are telling him. Keeping in mind that yellowfin are not typically found within 20 to 30 miles of shore, he tells me to relax and enjoy the choppy boat ride.

“Choppy” turns out to be an understatement. For a guy who spends little time on the ocean, I soon begin to turn green. But with much determination I keep my composure and don’t see the contents of my stomach for nearly three hours.

We see our first set of diving birds not far beyond the 20-mile range.

Mark explains to me that the birds are our eye in the sky. Driven by hunger, they seek out schools of baitfish being pushed to the surface by larger pelagic feeders such as tuna. Find the birds, and you find the fish; it’s that simple. Alex already has a 12-weight in hand, rigged and ready to rock. My camera gear is set up, ready to roll, and I’m fortunate to capture Alex’s first cast, which results in a quick eat, a screaming reel,

50 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

and an exhausting battle between

the camera rolling, curious as to what

fish and man.

will take place when a larger fish is hooked.

The effort turns up a tuna in the 10-pound range, which makes Mark

For the next two hours, I’m blown

and Alex both smile and explain that

away by the pure strength and

this is merely a baby compared to

determination of the yellowfin tuna.

what we’re hoping for. My mind turns

Mark and Alex repeatedly cast into

upside down, wondering how a fish

the underwater chaos of cruising

considered small could make a reel

fish, hooking up time and time again.

spin that fast for that long. I keep

None of the first dozen fish are over

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 51

15 pounds. Tuna typically congregate in schools of similar-sized fish, so Mark is thinking of searching out a different group of tuna that may produce larger fish.

All I’m thinking about is how to keep my breakfast down. The swell is rocking us all over the place, and I’m wondering how the two of them are capable of fishing under these conditions. Without me knowing, Mark has noticed my discomfort and offers me a turn at casting to the cruising tuna. Confident in the footage I have gathered thus far, I decide taking a break from the camera is probably a good idea. A few casts into it and

Mark’s seasoned guide skills kick in as

this tuna crosses my mind. As the

I go tight to my first saltwater fish.

he coaches me on what to do better

fish approaches the boat, I’m expect-

Like a rookie, I fail to clear the line

next time. He helps me maintain my

ing a 60-pounder. Turns out my fish

adequately and end up with minor

confidence, and I begin casting once

is just another little guy. I’m totally

line burns on my fingers and a bust-

more. Only minutes later, I strip-set,

surprised.

ed-off fly. And all this time I thought

clear the line to the reel, and endure

the steelhead, muskie, and salmon

through the longest initial run I’ve

THE FISHERY

battles I’ve experienced would have

ever experienced from a fish. Minutes

For the last two seasons, local anglers

prepared me for tuna. I couldn’t have

later, my rod arm is burning, but I’m

and guides have been astonished at

been more wrong.

all smiles as the thought of landing

the number of tuna showing up in

52 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

their waters. San Diego consistently

that are very small known as “rete

school of fish. The day continues this

experiences good numbers of yellow-

mirable,” which assist in elevating

way as I experience my first wide-

fin, but the warmer waters accompa-

their body temperatures. Warmer

open tuna bite. For the next three

nying El Niño may be playing a major

muscles produce faster chemical re-

days the seas calm, and so does my

role in allowing more fish to move

actions that add power and strength

stomach (thanks to a Dramamine

into more northern regions off the

to their swimming abilities. This sets

patch), and we successfully chase,

coast of Southern California. This has

them apart from most other fish spe-

catch, and film these amazing crea-

provided Mark and his clients a fish-

cies. For example, yellowfin tuna are

tures. Mark and Alex both find the

ery of a lifetime. When we first began

among the fastest fish in the ocean,

larger fish they’re looking for, and I’m

to discuss putting together a project

reaching speeds over 40 mph when

successful in capturing the footage

filming off the coast of San Diego, we

bursting toward a fleeing meal, es-

needed to compile a compelling story.

hadn’t decided that our target would

caping predators, or peeling line from

But the adventure doesn’t end there.

be tuna. Once the season began,

a large-arbor reel. Another notable

Mark quickly realized the opportunity

feature that was impressive to see

THE DISTRACTION

to document the most epic tuna bite

in person were the grooves directly

Going back to our second day on the

in 20 years. As if a few amazing tuna

behind each fin in the front half of

water, we made a brave move, travel-

couldn’t assist in the production of

the fish’s back. These grooves allow

ing more than 40 miles to water that

a sweet film, we had lots of hungry

the fins to completely retract within

was virtually untouched by other an-

aggressive yellowfin willing to play a

the tuna’s body to reduce drag when

glers. We were searching for a giant

part, and even a cameo by an amaz-

additional speeds are needed and

“jewel” tuna to place atop our film’s

ing bluefin tuna.

maneuvering is not. Just one more

crown. When no such fish was found,

added feature that makes these

we began our journey back toward

exceptional fish pound for pound as

land. Fortunately, luck was in our

strong and fast as any fish in ocean.

favor, and we quickly stumbled across

THE FISH Every fish in the ocean has characteristics that aid its survival. Tuna

a series of kelp patties that had drift-

are unique in that they’re partially

BACK TO THE ACTION

warm-blooded fish. Sounds crazy,

After leaving the first school of tuna,

forests where they originated. The

right? Most fish are cold-blooded,

we cruise for a short time before

12-weight rods were dismissed, and

which leaves them unable to regulate

Mark spots another group of diving

Alex picked up a loaded 10-weight

their body temperatures above that

birds. He and Alex both cast, and

ready for action while Mark posi-

of the surrounding water. But tuna

both hook up. The fight is on once

tioned the boat in a manner that

have additional arteries and veins

again, as if we had never left the first

would allow us to drift 40 feet off

ed far from the inland underwater

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 53

54 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 55

or smaller. Another cast, more patty fish. No dorado. Third cast . . . well crap, good thing I didn’t place any bets on this patty.

We left the remote waters that day with Mark and Alex each having landed a handful of outstanding dorado.

I, on the other hand, am still hoping to one day connect with a beautiful, athletic bull dorado that will blow my mind. In the meantime, I will simply have to settle with the memories of tuna running me 200 yards into my backing in mere seconds. The strength and power of a torpedo trying to reach its target far beyond the patty. Mark explained that loads

tire and stop jumping 5 feet out of

the water’s surface, not to mention

of baitfish congregate around these

the water?! It was the only thought

the images burned into my mind of

floating structures for protection.

I had as I positioned the camera on

the splendid beauty exhibited by the

Any time there are baitfish, larger

both angler and fish. The fight was

yellowfin . . . I think I’m going to be

predators show up to feed.

much different than that of a tuna,

okay waiting for my dorado.

but what these fish lacked in direct On Alex’s first retrieve, I couldn’t

horsepower, they made up for in

believe what I was seeing: A school of

style. I quickly developed dorado envy

giant brightly colored fish followed

and wanted more than anything to

his fly back to the boat. His fly had

experience catching one of these fish.

caught the attention of at least 20 aggressive dorado that were hanging

Mark and Alex agreed that I would

around the patty looking for an easy

get the first shot at the next stop.

meal. Mark quickly joined in casting,

We quickly found another large patty;

and an incredible double hook-up

the odds of hooking a dorado seemed

ensued. Each angler was locked on to

to be in my favor. First cast, and the

a double-digit dorado that performed

only followers were a pod of small

incredible acrobatic moves over and

patty fish curious of my fly. Most

over. Are these fish ever going to

were the size of my baitfish imitation

56 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 57

: s ey K e th of rt ea H e Th a Marathon Journal

By Stephen Collector

My tropical initiation on the

opportunity for an extended stay.

island’s culture—where I could find

flats began with a photography

Better late than never.

it. Having a couple of cameras sweetened the mix.

assignment when I was in my 30s.

It was more a rite of passage than

When we arrived in the Keys last

a gig.

winter, I was reading Bob Dylan’s

Beyond escaping the harshest

memoir, Chronicles. I thought I knew

two months of a Colorado winter,

The Caribbean archipelago known as

what he meant when he penned, “I

we expected to do some biking,

the Florida Keys enchanted me, in

felt done for, an empty burned-out

exploring, snorkeling, sea kayaking,

part related to some of my literary/

wreck. Too much static in my head

and of course, fishing. Several

artist heroes: Jim Harrison, Russell

and I couldn’t dump the stuff. I was

entries from the journal follow.

Chatham, and Tom McGuane. I spent

what they called over the hill. The

a week with those guys in Key West

mirror had swung around and I could

on a magazine shoot in the 1980s.

see the future—an old actor fumbling

Their romance with the region

in garbage cans outside the theater

in a bad fun-house mirror at

sparked my imagination in places

of past triumphs.”

the dreaded snowbird. And I had

The Publix Market was like looking

ostensibly joined the club—with

like Key West, Islamorada, and Big Pine Key.

February 2

What I sought, having just completed

the wrinkles, the vexing sunspots,

a 2,400-mile cross-country migration

and the gray hair to prove it. But

To a lesser degree, I was also aware

from Colorado with our stuff and

enough with morbidity. . . . Before

of consummate anglers like Stu Apte,

aging bird dog, was a fresh start.

our departure, I had reached out to Alex Zapata, a flats guide who’d

Steve Huff, and Guy de la Valdene, who directed the cult documentary

With my wife, Leigh, and our Brittany,

fished us in the backcountry last

Tarpon. What I encountered then was

we rolled into a rental property at

spring. Could I catch bonefish

a charming village that had yet to

the shoreline of Boot Key in the

wading flats from shore from

experience the explosive development

village of Marathon to begin our

public-access areas, I queried?

that would eventually transform

adventure on Feb. 1. Two months

Zapata replied: “Hi, Steve. There is

the Conch Republic into a glorified

seemed a wide expanse of time to

little to no wade fishing in the Keys.

indulge my obsessions. Marathon

There are only a couple of flats that

was strategically between Key West

have road or public access, and the

A ten-day visit last spring rekindled

and Islamorada. I kept a journal,

fishing is not productive. Long Key

a latent bond. Nearly 35 years later,

which would come to reflect more

or Bahia Honda Park are pretty

I had finally arrived at the stage of

than angling adventures, because

much your only choices. You might

life where I had both the means and

I was just as curious about the

get a barracuda here and there . . .

boutique.

58 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 59

that’s it. You need tons of luck to catch a bonefish from shore down here in those two spots. While still limited, you can expand your range and your chances a bit with a kayak.

You need a skiff in the keys.” Having done some research on the web, I was pretty sure I’d prove Alex wrong. . . . We provisioned our shopping cart with exotic produce like Sumo oranges, chayote, and dragon fruit, stocked up at a liquor store with Havana Club rum and Coronita beer— then we eagerly returned to our new digs.

February 5

Pulled into Conch Key for a Cuban

isn’t simply escape, but a chance

water, and fresh puzzles to solve.

coffee at a waterside café called El

to change your point of view, get a

. . . We arrived at Long Key State

Habanero. The sweet, potent brew

fresh perspective, and rediscover the

Park, paid the admission fee, and

brought us right back to old Havana.

world—and maybe oneself. For the

geared up. I tied a shrimp jig head

The thing about travel is that it

angler, it’s unknown country, new

to Leigh’s spinning rod, and strung

60 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

my 8-weight. I tied on a pink shrimp

was essential. Not only that, but I

hoping to find unpressured water.

imitation, and we waded out into the

may have inadvertently spooked fish

Not long after I noticed the ray, I

incoming tide on the Atlantic side.

by blind casting. You stalk or hunt

saw a few horseshoe crabs scuttling

The bottom was soft in places, a

the fish before you attempt a cast.

around, and then a huge school of

combination of sand and turtle grass.

The wading angler can get quite close

iridescent glass minnows. This was

The 74-degree water was delightful.

to both permit and bonefish—far

more like it. I’d mistimed the tide,

A few tourists were paddling around

closer than a skiff. Fish will bolt when

arriving too early in the outgoing

in sea kayaks. I was the only fly

an angler moves his rod, or pushes a

tide. Straining to see through the

fisherman. Unable to see very far

small wake. In the skinny water, the

shifting light, I saw what I thought

in front of me, I waded cautiously,

fish are anxious, and clumsiness has

was a bonefish. I made one false cast

shuffling my feet for rays. We

consequence, as do casts that result

and punched out the line. The shrimp

would see several skates, which are

in a slap.

pattern landed too far in front, but I

harmless. A turtle popped his head

got a brief follow before the fish shot February 7

away. I put another cast out front

The skeletal silhouette of the dead

that was ignored. Wading nearby, a

out forever. The sea, its variations

mangrove tree haunted the flat,

long shadow moved parallel. It was

of greens and blues, felt like a warm

hard by the shoreline. I walked into

the unmistakable outline of a shark.

embrace. If I didn’t have my pack, I

the raking afternoon light past

My blood pressure soared. It was

would have dived in. Blind casting for

the construction warning sign,

dark, but when I saw its red striped

a while, it surprised me when I got a

clopping through the shallow, soft

fin, I was relieved—a nurse shark.

grab. I easily reeled in a small, ugly

bottom in my booties. A few steps

Swimming 20 feet away, it wasn’t

puffer fish. Then, as I was removing

into the Atlantic and I startled a

interested in my presence, and as

the fly, the little bastard chomped off

stingray, waving its long dark tail

it finned away, I tried to take it all

the edge of my thumb. . . . Few fish

and holding its deadly spines erect.

in—ideal water temperature; breeze

were visible. We moved locations. I

It was my second time wade fishing

out of the northeast; the palate of

would learn over at the Fly Shop that

for bonefish at Long Key State Park.

color, from chartreuse tinged tan

I broke a couple of cardinal rules; it

After 30 minutes of stalking the vast

to jade, the various shades of blue.

was imperative to have the sun at

flat, sometimes wading up to my

. . . It required all my concentration

your back, and seeing the fish first

waist, I had seen nothing. So I moved,

to make out the next couple of

up 50 yards offshore. On the vast, wide flat, it felt like one could wade

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 61

and slowly made their way south through the Intracoastal Waterway.

Occasionally, they sailed out and made ocean passages. They took their time and stopped where they favored. In Charleston, they stopped for a few weeks; West Palm Beach the same. For a month they berthed in Jacksonville, and fell in love with Fort Pierce, where they idled for a quiet few months. It took a little over a year to make their way to Key West. “Jacob and I did a majority of it together, all the way to West Palm Beach, until he was called into work. From Miami south I sailed solo,” she said. At first they took 12-hour shifts. Much of the time they spent little time together. Hope had the night shift, where she saw shooting stars and moonlit channels, and Jacob did the day shift, where he witnessed hundreds of dolphins and similar boaters, all seeking warmth.

Together, they watched every sunrise and sunset throughout the entire passage. She was struggling to score enough money working on a party boat to retrofit her sloop. bonefish, but they were there. I may

clothes, no makeup, and her light

have spooked them because they

brown hair was unbrushed, it couldn’t

refused my presentations. . . . What

disguise her beauty. I asked if I could

mattered most to me was that I was

take her portrait. Later, I arrived

Key in the morning, where I’d been

wading in the ocean, covered up from

at the Marathon City Marina. She

uselessly wade fishing, I noticed a

the tropical sun, my fly rod in hand;

stowed my gear in her dinghy, and

couple of anglers down on a pullout

while back in Colorado, it was early

we motored slowly through the

across from a vast trailer park on

February in “the cruelest month,”

marina and into a winding channel.

Ohio Key, so I did a U turn. There

to adapt T. S. Eliot for the Rockies.

Her modest maritime home, the

were two guys with tall stepladders

It was just a matter of time—or so I

Presto, moored along a thick hedge

stringing fly rods. I introduced myself

thought.

of mangroves in Sister’s Creek, was

to Jeff Smith and his stepson, Jonas.

a sloop with one mast, two sails, February 12

I learned they’d recently moved to

and a headsail in front. For just

Marathon from Colorado Springs. Jeff

A day-fishing charter service

under $20K, she and her husband

was an experienced fishing guide.

advertising low rates piqued my

purchased the 1980 C&C Landfall

With their approval, I tagged along as

curiosity, so I biked over. That’s where

38-footer, which she still thought

they waded far out onto a wide flat

I met Hope, who bore a striking

was a damn good deal. They had

at slack low tide. At one point, where

resemblance to Margaux Hemingway.

sailed out of Wrightsville Beach,

I was in almost chest deep water,

Though she wore tattered work

North Carolina, about a year ago,

a large shark swam by me about a

62 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

February 26

Returning home from Little Torch

out on the channel side and cast my shrimp, which it luckily ignored.

It looked super fishy on the north side of the island, a perfect sand flat with skinny water. Schools of small fish were hiding in the grassy places, perfectly invisible. The light was excellent, the wind at my back, so I had no excuses. Either I couldn’t see fish, or the flats were unoccupied. . . .

I hoped to see tarpon in the channel.

After three hours, I worked my way to shore, feeling lonely as I watched my footing for a ray. It wasn’t my morning. . . . In the afternoon, on foot away. According to Smith, he’d

The offering landed mid stream, and

caught tarpon, bonefish, and permit

the incoming tide took the shrimp

while wading on this flat. With a

down and away, like the current in a

heavy backpack jammed with tackle,

river. Holding the mono between my

food, and water, he carried three

fingers, I felt tapping. I’d made a few

rods and the heavy ladder. The two

adjustments from previous failures.

would spend the entire day moving

After my third attempt here, with

with the tide. I took pictures for an

20-pound wire leader, and baiting the

hour, though they had no hook-ups,

shrimp from the tail, I began hooking

and then returned home. . . . After

them. I caught several small snappers

arriving at the unit, it was off to Big

before I reeled in a keeper. Then I

Pine and the landmark No Name Pub

hooked and landed a yellow jack. Fish,

for conch fritters and Islamorada IPA.

it’s what’s for dinner. With dinner on

Little Torch Key, my slave cylinder

ice, I shed my shirt and plunged in for

failed and, unable to shift the

March 3

a refreshing swim in the blue hole,

transmission, the truck broke down.

A bike ride out to Pigeon Key. . . .

then stretched out on the coral shelf,

Four hours later, with yet another

Afterward, we drove across the Bahia

soaking up the sunshine.

dent in the credit card, a wrecker towed it back to Marathon.

Honda Bridge to the public Horseshoe Beach. While seafood markets were plentiful, it was an aim of mine to

March 11

Wade fished Ohio Key on the

March 25

A cold front barreled in from the

catch our supper. I had my lousy

outgoing tide. Arrived at 8:30 a.m.

spin rod, which I’d found along the

and waded south . . . wind at 15 knots

north—the sky a blanket of gray.

bank of the North Platte River and

. . . intermittent sunlight. First fish

A forecast of high winds foiled my

an antique Mitchell 300 reel. A little

spotted was a small lemon shark.

plans to fish with a guide for tarpon

bait bucket and a small cooler of

The further southwest I waded,

(a surprising gift from my landlord).

ice completed my gear. I walked the

the more promising the wide flat

If I counted the calm, sunny days

coral shelf out towards deeper water

appeared. A small shark, which

compatible with fly fishing these last

and waded into the incoming time

startled me, almost swam through

seven weeks, I’d barely need both

at the edge of a deep green channel

my legs. A minuscule island off the

hands. Discouraged, I bumped into

bordered by coral flats. Baiting my

Ohio Bahia Honda channel attracted

my neighbor, Ted Norbits, who runs a

circle hook with a live shrimp, I hurled

me, and I explored its craggy coral

boat accessory company called BITS

my longest cast against the wind.

outcroppings. I saw a shark cruise

Manufacturing, walking the dock. I

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 63

had recently helped him break into

permit. While Alex had been correct

with my heroes—but that was then.

fly fishing. He suggested we get in his

about wading for bones, I’d caught

There would be no hanging out at

26-foot skiff, use the trolling motor,

fish during our two-month stay. Ted

Louie’s Backyard (their Key West

and explore the nearby mangroves

guided me out on the Gulf twice,

haunt), as Harrison, gesticulating

for juvenile tarpon. The tide was

where we caught a variety of fish:

with a cigarette, regaled us with his

high, and the wind was blowing. I had

snappers, grouper, Spanish mackerel,

dazzling intellect and outrageous

tied a 30-pound piece of mono as

and jacks—not to mention sharks.

stories; or Chatham, exuding charm

a shock tippet, to which I added an

Another day, while being guided out

and hilarity, beguiled literary groupies

unweighted Tarpon Toad. I pounded

in the Everglades, I caught redfish on

and took an interest in my work.

the edges, working on my double

the fly, the water too cold for tarpon.

Their passing left a yawning void. For

haul. Every so often, I got off a good

. . . But besides the fishing, which

the past two months, I hadn’t exactly

shot, which softly landed, kissing the

mostly had been underwhelming, I’d

embraced change (there are limits

mangroves. Over a hundred casts

met interesting people, gotten to

to my nature), but I had consciously

later, I’d resigned myself that the fish

practice stand-up paddleboarding,

made it a point to be in the moment,

had moved elsewhere. My unweighted

and learned about asylum seekers

curbing a penchant for comparison

fly was a concern in the deeper

from Cuba, sailing rickety boats

and sentimentality. I actively

water. Glass minnows leaped out of

(known as chugs) while risking their

sought cultural stimulation and had

the water, and I made the throw,

lives to cross the Gulfstream to what

photographed extensively. The Keys

which landed tight to the bank. I saw

they hoped would be a better life.

jumpstarted our sense of adventure.

the grab of the fish and strip-set

. . . We’d sampled the riches of the

Recapturing my youth was never the

the hook, and just like in the films

sea on the table and watched our

goal, but at least I’d dumped some of

and magazines, the young silver king

Brittany almost drown as she swam

the static in my head. The long road

came rattling out of the water, tail

out in single-minded pursuit of a

home began on the morrow.

walking three times, before I could

cormorant. But maybe best of all,

recapture the line onto the reel and

I’d been able to walk her at dawn, in

Stephen Collector is a long-time

subdue the 10-pounder. . . . When we

the soft, moist air, wearing shorts

professional photographer and

tied up at the dock, we saw several

and flip-flops. . . . The sweet rum

writer. His writing has been featured

manatees out on the flat, rolling

warmed my throat as the breeze

in Strung, The Pointing Dog Journal,

around, humping and splashing. They

rocked the palm fronds. An osprey

Anglers Journal, Big Sky Journal, The

were mating. It went on until dusk.

sailed overhead and whistled sharply

Flyfish Journal, Southwest Fly Fishing,

while the fishing boats bobbed gently

and American Angler. His books

March 31

along the pier. “Don’t Worry Baby”

include Law of the Range: Portraits

Our last evening. I sat on the

by the Beach Boys wafted out to the

of Old-Time Brand Inspectors and

balcony overlooking Boot Key, with

balcony from the kitchen, mingling

Journeys to Ancient America. He calls

a rum and soda, reminiscing. Off in

with the aroma of sautéed mangrove

the Rockies home and has fished

the distance, a free-range rooster

snapper. This experience in the

and hunted from Alaska to Mexico.

crowed, followed by the mournful

Keys was in a different spectrum

Partial to Brittanys and brook trout,

cry of a dove. There would be no

than that long-ago initiation, when

he lives in Boulder, Colorado. His

victory with bonefish, much less a

a photo assignment had cast me

website is stephencollector.com.

64 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

NAUTILUS PRO GUIDE DATA SHEET

Paul Tejera Born in Havana, Cuba, raised in Miami. Fly Fishing guide from BIO: Miami to Key West for a lifetime. Living in Islamorada.

GUIDED ANGLERS TO: Multiple Championships in all Major Tarpon Tournaments, Bonefish Fly and All-Tackle Tournaments.

TARGET SPECIES: TARPON, permit, bonefish. Redfish and snook when the big three aren’t around.

BOAT: Maverick 17’ HPX-V FAVORITE KNOT: Albright FAVORITE FLY: PT Persuader FAVORITE RIVER/WATER: Tie - Flats off Key West / Everglades FAVORITE TYPE OF FISHING: Fly fishing for big Tarpon FAVORITE FISH:Tarpon with permit a close second Silver King - light, fast, smooth sealed FAVORITE NAUTILUS REEL-WHY?: drag and looks great! Important when you’re from Miami!

These are someones “ good old days ” !

FAVORITE SAYING: Final day of winning The Gold Cup Tarpon Tournament BEST DAY FISHING: BIGGEST FISH EVER LOST: Don’t remember losing one that big!

WHO WOULD YOU LIKE TO GUIDE ONE DAY?: Kelly Slater DREAM DESTINATION: I’ve been everywhere I’ve wanted …The Florida Keys WHERE CAN WE GET YOUR AUTOGRAPH?: At the Lorelei Bar in Islamorada WHEN NOT FISHING?: Real estate, tennis, surfing WHAT DO YOU LIKE BEST ABOUT NAUTILUS REELS?:They’re committed to excellence!

Nothing better!

AND ONE TIME A CLIENT: Fired me and my only regret was I didn’t fire him first!

NAME:

EXPERIENCE NAUTILUS® Nautilus ® Silver King CCF-X2

NAUTILUSREELS.COM TAIL FLY305.625.3437 FISHING MAGAZINE 65

The Murder Cucumbers of Blekinge Story by Ilias Karanzas Photos by Arek Kubale

My wife and I have spent the early hours of the morning heading north up to Oslo to pick up friends who have flown in from Poland. Now that the car is packed with people and gear, it’s time to drive south toward the brackish flats of the Blekinge area to fly fish for pike. My friends Arek, Wojtek, and Aga have never fished for pike in conditions like these, although my wife and I have often visited our friends at Sandhamn Marine for the type of fly fishing that you can only get there.

66 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

Arriving at Sandhamn Marine on

temperatures for the coming days,

water, and massive amounts of fish.

Monday afternoon, we were greeted

we started building our strategy.

If you visit in late February and have

by Ulf Johansson and his son Mattis,

Most people think that early February

days that are partly sunny and about

with news that the fishing had been

pike fishing is something that is not

6 degrees Celsius, you will have some

great. The guys threw our gear into

done, that pike in a prespawn mood

great fishing experiences. That’s

our cabins, and we immediately

are sluggish and will not grab a fly.

exactly what we had coming.

started out into the bay to begin

This is far from the truth, though,

fishing. But after casting throughout

especially in the Blekinge area.

The flies recommended for this area

the entire area without a single

The pelagic pike from the Baltic

tend to have natural brown and

nibble, our moods fell, and we called

Sea arrive in late October, moving

green tones, but we came to the

it a night.

onto the shallows of the Blekinge

conclusion that we needed something

archipelago to fatten up before the

more aggressive in color since colder

Sitting together in the evening

spawn. That’s what makes the fishing

conditions occasionally call for a

and discussing the weather and

here so fun: big flats, 2 to 3 feet of

fly that can trigger a strike rather

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 67

than a feeding response. A couple

pattern tied with a yellow butt,

of beers into the night, we started

chartreuse middle, and blue head, a

looking into what materials we had

color combo that looks quite pleasing

with us, and we ended up creating a

but still screams fly of contrasts. I

pattern that was named the MCD, or

tied up 10 of them, and we all went

the Murder Cucumber Destroyer, a

to sleep.

name that came up in the midst of

68 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

laughing at the nicknames we have

Waking up early Tuesday morning at

for pike here in Sweden. The Murder

8 a.m. for breakfast, the energy in

Cucumber Destroyer is a streamer

the group was high, and we were all

hoping for a day of great fishing. I

island, Wojtek took his first pike, a

hazardous. Both Molly and I ripped

wanted my friends to hook into some

small 55-centimeter fish spotted by

our waders and ended up watching

Blekinge pikes and my wife, Molly, to

Molly. I ended up showing him how to

the spectacle unfold from shore. Ulf,

catch her first pike on the fly. The

grab a pike by the gills, and Wojtek

Mattis, and Wojtek moved to the

great thing about fishing this area

earned his first battle scars.

other side of the bay, and then things

at this time of year is that you don’t

really got crazy. Wojtek caught three

need to fish early in the morning. The

Twenty minutes later, camp owner

fish on his first four casts, and it

fish really become active at about 11

Ulf and his son Mattis came down

really did not matter where people

a.m., with the best fishing going on

and started pulling up fish. Within an

were casting in that area. Fish were

between 2 and 4 p.m.

hour we had caught about 20 pike

striking, but only on the MCD and

between us, with a couple of good

Ulf’s Papegoja pattern, which is also

We drove out from our cabins at

double- and triple-headers. That’s

very colorful and striking. The day

about 10:30 a.m., heading about 5

the great thing about Blekinge—the

ended about an hour later with a

kilometers north on the peninsula

average size of the fish is not that

tally of about 70 fish, which was an

to a bay that always holds good

big (about 60-85 centimeters), but

okay day. If we had conditions that

numbers of fish. Wojtek, Molly, and

they are fat, and the sheer amount

were better, we would have probably

I and went down into the water and

of fish is staggering.

caught in excess of a hundred fish

started fishing the south side of a

that day. We all headed back for

small island. After moving about

The bottom in Bleking is covered

dinner, but Wojteck and I decided

100 meters to the north side of the

with rocks, so wading can be a bit

to fish the last hour of daylight. It

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 69

was a good decision, as we ended up catching another seven fish (with two double-headers). We all fell asleep with big smiles on our faces that night.

Waking up the next morning to the sound of rain on the roof, we ate and drove out to hit a new area. Cold wind and rainy weather really destroyed the fishing. Wojtek, who can catch fish in a bathtub indoors, caught the

read a book while we continued.

have a net with you because dragging a fish 300 meters through ice cold

first fish of the day. The rest of the day was sadly fishless, and we ended

From the other side of the bay, we

water is a good way to lose your

up calling it an early evening to

heard Wojtek screaming. He hooked

fingers. Number two: No matter how

escape the pounding weather.

into a nice fish and landed it. But

cold, miserable, wet, and tired we are

I was on the other side of the bay

while fishing, fly anglers are crazy

The last day was just as cold as the

with Arek, our great photographer.

enough to plan the next day while

day before, but we all waded out into

We wanted a picture of this fish,

complaining about the one we are

the area we had fished the first day

so Wojtek began wading the 300

experiencing. Now that is true love.

and decided to try again. My wife,

meters over the bay, holding the pike

Molly, was the first to hook into a

under water. The water was close to

Ilias Karanzas is first and foremost

fish, her first pike (and fish) on a fly

freezing, and you could see the strain

a fly fisherman, but he’s also

rod. After a fight lasting a couple of

in his face as he lost the feeling

a photographer, writer, and

seconds, the fish jumped off, but that

in his fingers. I took the fish from

professional fly tier. He was born and

was enough. Shaking with adrenaline,

him when he arrived on the other

raised on the west coast of Sweden.

she had a big smile on her face

side and let him warm his fingers

He grew up chasing sea-run brown

and said, “I’m wet and cold and my

for a bit. This moment was the

trout in the salt water and pike in

waders are leaking. But now I know

culmination of our little fishing trip

the fresh water. When not writing

that I can hook fish!” She left the

and made me draw two conclusions

and chasing fish on the fly, he runs

water with a big smile on her face

about the fishing we do. Number one:

his small hobby company, Apex Flies.

and hid under a blanket in the car to

When fishing in cold water, always

70 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 71

ON THE PLATE

Seafood Paella Text and recipe by Jennifer Matsu Photos by Rob Schumske

M

ay was a busy but rewarding month of fishing and travel, including trips to Key West, Islamorada, and Mexico. In addition to making some great tarpon memories in the Keys, one of the highlights was fishing El Palometero, a permit tournament on Ascension Bay, Mexico.

Tail Fly Fishing Magazine was one of the tournament sponsors, and several of us from the magazine stayed at the Punta Allen Fishing Club. Although the permit didn’t cooperate as much as I would’ve liked, we made lots of other memories—and found the inspiration for this issue’s “On the Plate.”

Punta Allen Fishing Club’s proprietors are seasoned permit anglers and personable hosts, which more than made up for the permit refusals. In addition to my colleagues from the magazine, we were joined by Alberto Coppini, the acclaimed Italian artist who created the renowned permit sculpture that stands sentinel over Punta Allen’s waterfront and town park.

We also had the privilege of having Chico Fernandez as a housemate for the week. He spent the week targeting snook, his preferred species, and we spent the evenings listening to his fishing stories, many of which had us laughing so hard that it almost hurt. We talked about cars, jazz, and Cuban food—all of which are enduring passions of Chico’s.

Chico reminisced about his family making paella with head-on prawns. I knew immediately that I wanted to bring out my beloved copper paella pan once I was back home in Houston. So after a trip to Islamorada a couple of weeks later—I leadered my first big tarpon with Captain Bou Bosso despite a tropical disturbance cutting six days of fishing down to two—I pulled out the paella pan and created this dish that was inspired by Chico, all while reflecting on the memories made during a busy but rewarding spate of travel and fishing.

72 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 73

Directions

Clean the squid by pinching just below the head and then pulling the head away from the body. Squeeze the body down the entirety to remove any entrails that remain. Rinse the body and the head.

Slice the head off from the tentacles, leaving the tentacles intact as a bunch. If the beak remains within the tentacles, remove it.

Remove the wings from the body and slice the body into 1/4-inch

Seafood Paella Ingredients

1 pound head-on prawns ½ pound mussels, cleaned 1 pound whole squid ¼ cup olive oil 8 garlic cloves, minced (reserve about 2 minced cloves for mussels) 1 ½ cup white onion, chopped 2 vine-ripened tomatoes, chopped 1 tsp paprika 1 pinch of saffron, slightly crushed 2 cups Arborio rice 1 ½ cups Chardonnay or other dry white wine (½ cup reserved for mussels) 3 cups fish stock ¼ cup parsley, chopped for garnish 1 lemon, sliced 1 tsp red pepper flakes Salt, to taste Pepper, to taste

74 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

slices. Set aside.

Rinse prawns and set aside.

Warm 1 cup white wine, fish stock, and saffron in a small saucepan.

Heat olive oil in a large paella pan. Sauté onions until translucent, about 5 minutes. Stir in about 2/3 of the minced garlic, reserving the remaining garlic for the mussels. Stir in the diced tomatoes.

Add paprika and salt to taste. Cook tomatoes until they reduce and break down, about 5 to 10 minutes. Add the squid to the pan and toss gently in the tomato mixture. Add the rice to the pan and stir to coat in the tomato mixture. Add the simmering fish stock to the paella pan and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer. Season again with salt. Do not stir the rice again. You want to develop the socarrat, which is the crispy, caramelized base layer of the rice.

Cook for 15 minutes, uncovered. Begin cooking mussels (see below).

Meanwhile, nestle the prawns on top of the rice mixture and cook for 5 minutes, turns prawns over, and continue to cook for another 5 minutes until both sides are pink. Remove the pan from the heat and let rest 5-10 minutes.

Prepare the mussels by adding a few tablespoons of olive oil to a stock pot and then sautéing the remaining minced garlic for 30 seconds. Add crushed red pepper flakes and remaining 1/2 cup of white wine. Add mussels and cover. Cook for 2 minutes, shake the pan, and continue to cook for 5 more minutes. Remove from heat, add chopped parsley, and stir gently to coat. Remove mussels and arrange atop of paella and garnish with chopped parsley and lemon wedges for serving.

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 75

Bayou Vista Ranch Water

By TFFM Staff

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It’s no secret that we’re big fans of agave-based distillates here at the Tail Fly Fishing Magazine spirits desk, and if we’re not taking them neat, there may not be a better way to drink them than in the simple Ranch Water cocktail.

A ubiquitous cocktail in Texas for many years, the Ranch Water has been all the rage far beyond the Lone Star State’s borders of late. In its simplest form, a Ranch Water is tequila, carbonated water, and lime juice. Purists may declare adamantly that is should be made only with Topo Chico, a carbonated mineral water out of Monterrey, Mexico, that’s sourced from an inactive volcano. The less dogmatic will allow the addition of other flavorings, including simple syrup or orange liqueur, which yields a cocktail that’s basically a less-limey version of a margarita.

The origins of the Ranch Water are murkier than the Pecos River after a rainstorm, but most accounts point to West Texas. We’re partial to the legend that a Fort Davis rancher concocted the Ranch Water in the 1960s, drinking enough of them that he was compelled to follow the stars from Fort Davis to Marathon, where he was found asleep under a piñon tree.

Barkeeps in Austin also have laid claim to the cocktail, although folks in places like Marathon and Marfa scoff at such pronouncements. We’re not going to wade too deep into the dispute, because everything’s bigger in Texas—even esoteric arguments about agave-based cocktails. But suffice it to say that, given the warm, arid climate of West Texas and the area’s proximity to Mexico, it makes sense that this effervescent tequila cocktail was spawned there.

Here’s another twist on the Ranch Water from TFFM Food Editor Jennifer Matsu, who hails from Bayou Vista on the southeastern Texas coast, a fine place to sip this cocktail and watch for tailing redfish. Instead of tequila, she uses Del Maguey Chicicapa mezcal (all tequila is technically mezcal, but not vice versa), which is a great single-village mezcal from Oaxaca. She flavors this Ranch Water with a blackberry liqueur, giving it a lovely purple tint and a unique flavor compared to a traditional Ranch Water.

Bayou Vista Ranch Water aguey 1 1/2 oz. Del M d Bla 1/2 oz. Drillau Sparkling wat Lime juic

Chichicapa m

ckberry Crèm

Over ice, add ezcal

e de Mûre

er

e) om half a lim e (squeezed fr

the mezcal, cr

de mûre, and

ème

lime juice. Top

sparkling wat

with

ry er, and stir ve

gently, so that lose its efferv

the drink does

escence. Garn

hee with a lime w

n’t

ish

l.

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 77

( (

Seeing RED

by Macala Elliott

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Mac Elliott’s Canon opens a window to the world of redfish, documenting these eager feeders and tenacious fighters in some of their most celebrated haunts—from Texas to Florida to South Carolina.

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 79

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COOLA POP

SHRIMP

By Carl Harris

Garden State angler and fly tier Carl Harris is probably one of the most clever and methodical tiers to come along in recent years.

He uses CAD engineering software to design flies made of natural materials and unique foam bodies. The end results are good-looking, durable patterns that also are highly productive.

We asked Carl to make us a topwater fly for bonefish last year, and he sent a package of his Coola Pop Shrimp. We used these little gems for everything from bass to bonefish, and they certainly attracted some attention. We liked the pattern so much, in fact, that we asked Carl for more color options and his blessing to share the pattern and tying steps for our fly tying section.

The Coola Pop is similar to the Gartside Gurgler, but it actually pops better on top. The redesigned lip, coupled with a more streamlined body, makes this fly irresistible to fish. You can strip it fast or slow, and the lip design keeps the fly in the water. We’ve also found that it’s a bit more durable than the Gurgler (which is still a highly productive fly).

It’s not surprising that one of the world’s most powerful engineering tools would produce such a good fly. The foam patterns and steps are below. If you’re not interested in tying them yourself, pick up some at Carl’s online store, cghcustomtackle.com.

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Materials:

Hook: Gamakatsu SL11-3H, Size 4 Thread: Danville .210 Denier Flat Waxed Nylon Foam Parts: 2 mm Craft Foam (craft store or fly shop) Saltwater Saddle Hackle: Tier’s choice Body/Legs: Chocklett’s Finesse Body Chenille Large, 1.25”, or equivalent Eyes: Spawn FlyFish—Easy Shrimp Eyes Body Art: Painter, marker, airbrush, etc.

Glue: 10-second Gorilla Glue (blue cap), or equivalent

Directions: Step 1 Base wrap the hook shank, and stop with your bobbin hanging down near the hook point.

Step 2 Select and tie in two of your favorite hackle feathers, leaving approximately 3/4 inch extending past the hook bend. Next, add about 4 lengths of flash material.

When the flash is fully fastened, trim it to your desired length and return your thread wraps back toward the hook point.

Step 3 Grab a pair of shrimp eyes, homemade or store bought. You’ll want to position the eyes near the bend of the hook. Tie them in securely, so they won’t spin around the shank.

Step 4 Starting with your thread positioned about ¼-inch behind the eye, fold your foam collar down either side of the shank and pinch in place. The wider blunt end should be completely over the hook eye, and the pointed end should be facing toward the bend (Fig. 4a and 4b).

While pinching the material in place, add three or four snug wraps onto the foam,

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4a

Step 4b

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 87

Step 4c

Step 4d

Step 4e

Step 5a

Step 5b

88 TAIL FLY FISHING FISHING MAGAZINE MAGAZINE

Step 5c

flaring the foam and forming the pop tail (Fig. 4c). Once satisfied with the location of the pop tail, push the flared portion of the tail backward toward the bend, exposing the eye and thread wraps. Add a dab of glue to the wraps and the foam. Then push the foam back to its original flared position (Fig. 4d and 4e).

This will keep the foam from spinning around the shank in later steps.

Step 5 Tie in a length of the desired leg material near the hook point and wrap toward the eye, stopping just behind the foam pop tail. My choice of leg material is a flashy chenille, but rabbit strips and dubbing-brush style materials also work well (Fig. 5a and 5b).

Once wrapped and bound, trim off the material along the top of the shank, being careful not to snip any of the securing thread wraps (Fig. 5c and 5d).

Step 6 Starting with your thread just behind the foam pop tail, take the remaining peanut shaped foam cutout and wrap it in at its midpoint, against the back of the foam tail (Fig. 6a). Add a dab of glue on top of the hook shank and press the closest foam body section down (Fig. 6b and 6c). Add another dab of glue between the two halves of the foam body and fold the remaining foam section back toward the bend, securing it to the first half (Fig. 6d). Whip finish, and get to popping.

Step 5d

Step 6a

Step 6b

Step 6c

Step 6d

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 89

on top BASS

by George Roberts

In general, you’ll catch most of your

generated by a popper or hair-head

The bodies of sliders tend to be

striped bass throughout the year—

attracts fish that you may have

slimmer than those of popping bugs,

and most of your larger fish—using

missed with a more subtle subsurface

and the face is often cut to a V. Sliders

streamers fished subsurface. But

offering. In short, when fishing for

are meant to move across the surface

taking bass on topwater flies is

striped bass, don’t hesitate to ring

quietly, creating a wake that the bass

arguably the most exciting way to

the dinner bell.

still feels. Sliders are particularly good

catch them. Nothing compares to the

in calm water and, unlike poppers,

explosion of water that accompanies

TOPWATER FLY DESIGNS

a surface strike. It’s the saltwater

Surface striper flies fall into two

especially when bass are picking off

equivalent of dry-fly fishing—but

broad categories: popping bugs/

small baitfish on the surface. Despite

with the volume cranked.

sliders and hair-headed streamers.

the slider’s subtlety, bass will hit them

Popping bugs and sliders typically

just as hard as they’ll hit a popping

Visual excitement aside, there are

are made of one of three types of

bug. Under the right circumstances,

other good reasons why you should

material: cork, balsa wood, or most

fishing a slider can be like pulling your

add surface flies—popping bugs,

commonly foam (such as the closed-

fly through a minefield.

sliders, and hair-heads—to your

cell foam from which lobster-pot

bag of tricks. First, nothing gets a

buoys are made). Most striped-bass

striper’s attention like a wounded

poppers range from about 1/2 inch to

baitfish, and there’s no better way

5/8 inch in diameter, and from 1 inch

to transmit distress signals than

to a 1 1/2 inches in length, minus the

they can be deadly after dark—

with a popping bug. While a streamer must pass through the fish’s field of vision to trigger a strike, poppers

When fishing shallow over structure like rocks, seaweed, or grass, there’s a chance you could hang up on something other than a fish, and tail. Poppers much larger than this

you’ll do well to use a fly that has

become difficult to cast.

some buoyancy. Streamers with heads made of spun or flared

The tails of most popping bugs

deer body hair work well in such

can summon fish from a distance. A

are made of either bucktail, saddle

situations. The late Bill Catherwood’s

striped bass’s lateral line is ever alert

hackles, or a combination of hackles

Giant Killer series of flies are the

to low-frequency waves such as those

and marabou. Saddle hackles allow

prototypical hair-heads, dressed in

generated by baitfish in trouble;

for a longer tail, but the commotion

a colorful melange of saddle hackle,

it gives the fish a sensory “radar”

produced by a popping bug creates

marabou, and clipped deer body hair

that extends out to around 50 feet.

the illusion of a prey item much larger

that striped bass find irresistible.

Therefore, the surface commotion

than the popper’s actual size.

A full-size Giant Killer runs 7 to 9

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inches long, and the construction technique doesn’t lend itself to a fly half that size. So if you’re looking to throw the sardine rather than the full kipper, you’ll do well to go with a more basic pattern. One of my favorite hair-heads is Lou Tabory’s Snake Fly. It sports a wing of ostrich herl flanked with marabou that has a lot of inherent action in the water.

It’s a deadly effective pattern that’s relatively easy to tie and lends itself to a size-2 to 1/0 hook.

THE OUTFIT For striped bass, consider the size of the flies you’ll be casting before you consider the size of the fish you might encounter. Although I feel an 8-weight outfit is adequate to handle any striper I’m likely to hook, I often fish a 10-weight rod, simply because it makes casting the largest poppers and hair-heads much easier.

I’ve read about anglers fishing popping bugs with intermediate lines, but I feel a full floating line gives a bug its best action. If you find casting popping bugs a challenge with a standard weight-forward taper (that is, a head

92 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

in the vicinity of 40 feet), one of the

better with a streamer. Exceptions

reasons I don’t understand, poppers

shorter, more compact tapers being

to this occur in the spring and fall,

just don’t seem to produce after

produced by such manufacturers as

when you’re likely to encounter

dark. For proper night fishing I’ll tie

Airflo or Royal Wulff might help you

schools of bass smashing bait tight

on a slider.

better turn it over.

to the shore. During this wild surface feeding, a popper can be deadly, as

Don’t hesitate to drop a popping bug

Striped bass aren’t particularly leader

its prominent silhouette and the

into any likely bass-holding area—

shy, so it’s unnecessary to use a long

commotion it causes enable fish to

the mouth of an inlet or tidal pool

tapered leader with a popping bug.

key in on it immediately.

(particularly on a falling tide), or in

Six feet of level 15- or 20-pound test

the middle of a rip. In rivers, I’ve had

monofilament is ideal. Should you

Poppers are also good for attracting

my best success by casting directly

wish to build a tapered leader, keep

fish from deep water. Over holes and

across the current. In particular, work

it simple. A three-piece leader no

dropoffs, where a streamer might go

the edges and eddies.

longer than 9 feet that tapers to

unnoticed, a noisy bug is sometimes If the setting doesn’t lend itself to a popping bug but you’d still like to play the topwater game, don’t hesitate to tie on a hair-head. One of my most memorable hook-ups came a number of years ago when I was fishing with my old friend, Captain Dave Tracy, who used to guide around Boston and Plymouth. It was Independence Day weekend. We had had some good fishing in the morning, and it was now coming on noon. We had bright sunshine, not a cloud in the sky, and the temperature was approaching 90 degrees. Dave had us drifting along a rocky shore in Plymouth that used to produce well on a coming tide.

15- or 20-pound test is sufficient. If

just the thing to make the fish come

We were within yards of a crowded

there’s a chance you might hook into

up and take a look.

sunbathing beach, with fairly heavy

a bluefish, consider adding 8 or so

boat traffic behind us.

inches of 60-pound mono or wire to

Popping bugs are also good searching

the tippet as a bite guard.

patterns. If you draw a strike with

Dave was used to having to produce

a popper but your next dozen casts

for clients, so he fished a Clouser

go unnoticed, switch to a streamer.

Half-and-Half on a sinking line a large

Popping bugs can be effective

Conversely, I’ll tie on a popper as a

percentage of the time. He wanted

wherever bass are found—in tidal

change-of-pace fly when streamers

me to fish one now. I could tell I was

rivers, off beaches, in bays, near

aren’t producing.

annoying him. I was standing on the

WHERE AND WHEN

jetties—but they’re not for all

bow, throwing a full-size Catherwood

occasions, and I limit their use to

The most productive times to fish

Herring (one I had dressed—not an

specific situations. During the day,

popping bugs, in my experience, are

original) 90 feet toward shore, then

I generally won’t use a popper in

in the early morning and the late

skating it back across the surface

water less than 6 feet deep. Shallow-

afternoon until nightfall. Although

in foot-long strips over a field of

water stripers tend to be spooky, so

stripers will feed readily on the

submerged boulders. (I may have

chances of catching these fish are

surface after the sun has set, for

been trying to impress a girl who was

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 93

with us—I can’t quite remember.)

strips to move the bug three or four

on the surface. I’ve also done well

inches at a time, kicking up water

with it when there was no surface

“You really have confidence in that

every now and then. If that doesn’t

activity, usually in calm waters in

big fly?” Dave asked.

draw any strikes, intersperse the

the evening or at night. With sliders,

retrieve with a few longer strips

and particularly after dark, I’ve

I was about to tell him that I had

to suggest the erratic behavior of

found a continuous retrieve is most

more confidence in the fly than in the

baitfish in trouble. Convey panic by

productive. Retrieve the fly hand-

location, when a bass appeared from

stripping quickly, skittering the bug

over-hand and brace yourself for an

the bottom—if it wasn’t 40 inches, it

across the surface. At times a choppy

explosion—it takes nerve to fish a

was close—and slammed the Herring.

two-handed retrieve is effective. No

slider well.

I was tight to the fish, but instead

matter which retrieve you use, the

of running to deeper water it headed

important thing is to keep the bug

Retrieve hair-heads with single

toward shore, into the rocks. Seven

moving.

strips of 6 to 12 inches, or use a

seconds later, it was all over.

continuous retrieve. In heavy current Whether hitting out of curiosity, or

or rips, I like to let them swing as you

I think Dave and I both learned

attempting to stun prey with a slap

would swing a streamer on a trout

something that day.

of the tail, a striper doesn’t always

river, adding an occasional strip for

take a surface fly into its mouth

interest. Although hair-headed flies

immediately. Raising the rod on such

do absorb water and may eventually

hits will not only result in a miss; it

sink, they’ll ride close enough to the

Some fly anglers believe you must

will pull the fly out of harm’s way.

surface that they’ll remain snag-free,

form fairly open loops to cast

Instead of trying to set with the

and you’ll still see every take.

popping bugs. This applies more to

rod tip, keep the rod tip close to the

casting weighted flies, which take on

water and pointed at your bug during

If catching striped bass on the

their own momentum. (Bringing a

the retrieve. Pay attention—the

surface turns out to be your cup of

weighted fly through a quick change

interest a striper shows in a popper is

tea, you might consider taking the

of direction, as you do when you form

often subtle. If you see a swirl behind

flies, gear, and techniques to other

tight loops, jars the cast.) Popping

your bug, or if the bug’s wake seems

fisheries. Jack crevalle love a popping

bugs are more wind-resistant than

unusually large—get ready. Chances

bug, and Puerto Rican tarpon will

they are heavy, so forming a tight

are a fish is inspecting your fly. If

absolutely crush a Catherwood

loop will carry the bug farther, more

you rouse a fish but draw no strike,

Giant Killer. Lou Tabory’s Snake Fly

efficiently, than will an open loop.

cast back and work the same area

is my favorite fly for false albacore,

CAST, RETRIEVE, AND HOOKSET

again; a striper that’s shown interest

particularly around Harkers Island.

When I began pursuing striped bass

seldom passes up a second chance. If

Watching a 20-pound tuna launch

with a fly rod, my only previous

the fish strikes, keep your rod down

itself out of the water to clobber your

experience with popping bugs had

and continue to strip line. That way,

fly may just be enough to get you to

been fishing them for largemouth

if the fish doesn’t take, the bug will

put your sinking lines away for good.

bass. In fresh water, a popper can

still be in position for the fish to take

suggest anything from a large insect

another swipe. I’ve seen bass slap at

TFFM acquisitions editor George

to a small bird or rodent. In the

a bug as many as four times before

Roberts is the author of Master the

ocean, however, a popper imitates

they finally took it. Only when you

Cast: Fly Casting in Seven Lessons

baitfish, period. The pop-and-wait

feel the weight of the fish should

(McGraw-Hil) and A Fly Fisher’s

retrieve so effective in fresh water is

you strike. One sharp strip is often

Guide to Saltwater Naturals and

useless in the salt. To get a striped

enough to set the hook.

Their Imitation (McGraw-Hill). For

bass to smash a popping bug, you’ve got to keep the popper moving.

Start slowly at first, using short

94 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

more information on fly casting and A Floating Sand Eel slider has

fly angling, visit George’s website:

produced well for me when bass

masterthecast.com.

have been slashing at naturals

September 23-30, 2022 ladiespermitpachanga www.ladiespermitpachanga.com TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 95

TAIL

CHASING THE

WAVING

96 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

An Evolution in Permit Fishing

by Jonathan Olch

The latest generation of fly rods are

Stripping flies that imitate

lighter, more powerful, and deliver

swimming crabs are being

Chasing the waving tail, the iconic

a fly more precisely. With at least

employed more often, resulting

symbol of the permit, has become

several brands of high-end rods, an

in improved hook-up rates. Even

the Holy Grail for many anglers.

average caster can reach at least 10

so, after this year’s March Merkin

Over the past decade, fly fishing

more feet in distance with proper

tournament, John O’Hearn told

for permit has become increasingly

timing, and without feeling the need

me that he perceived lower Keys

popular. With this, the tidal flats

to overpower the rod.

permit are beginning to see too many of these flies. More

of the Florida Keys, Belize, Mexico, and elsewhere are experiencing

The latest fly lines also are

greater angling pressure. Post-

dramatically better than a decade

pandemic, some lodges are fully

ago. To name a few, Monic’s all-clear,

Beyond Belize and Ascension

booked two years in advance. This

Henley floating fly line has a smooth

Bay, wading has become a more

zeal for permit has carried over

progressive taper that spooks fewer

frequent strategy for successful

into the warm-weather months—

fish and can land a fly softly in

permit anglers. A quieter

traditionally a quiet time reserved

windless to moderate conditions. The

approach and lower profile to

for trout fishing in northern climes.

line has little to no memory in a wide

actively tailing permit pays

innovation will not be far behind.

range of temperatures. Rio’s latest

dividends. Perceptive guides and

If I’ve learned one thing about

Stealth Pro flats line with the five-

anglers increasingly step down

permit behavior, it’s that they feel

foot clear sink tip places more weight

off the platforms on ultra-calm,

most comfortable and relaxed

in the front taper and can really

sunny days (or when low sun

when there are consistent weather

punch out a cast into the wind with

angles prevail), when irrational

conditions and a stable barometer.

accuracy. Scientific Anglers produces

permit flee in fright from 100 feet

Minus the occasional hurricane, the

excellent clear lines with a 30-foot

away.

summer and fall months provide

clear sink-tip, for those times when it

better angling opportunities for

is essential to keep the fly anchored

From an environmental

permit.

to the bottom in heavy current. Each

standpoint, many situations are

fly line has a place in contemporary

changing quickly—mostly for the

permit fishing.

worse.

they’ve altered their daily feeding

Suggestive fly patterns are becoming

Permit stocks are dwindling

habits in congested areas by

further refined. Ultraviolet and other

where rampant development has

spending more time in channels and

new materials continue to up the

reduced mangrove and critical

troughs and less time exposed on

game. Dave Skok’s Strong Arm Crab

juvenile habitat. Coral reefs, where

the flats. Yet, more permit are being

design probably rates as the fly of

permit dwell, are being degraded

caught than ever. The advances in

the decade. Primarily tied in a Merkin

through coral bleaching, the result

fly rods, fly lines, and flies have been

style, the trailing claw can also be

of warming seas. Even sunscreen

dramatic. Fueled by the constant

integrated in a design where the

applied by swimmers can have

flow of online information, anglers

body material is more “flowing,” a fly

far-reaching effects on coral

are better prepared to capitalize on

concept that sometimes succeeds

formations 40 miles away. Gill

the distinct differences in permit

in bridging the gap between a crab

netting persists in much of the

habitat, feeding behavior, and

and shrimp—the claw doubling as a

Caribbean, despite being illegal in

angling approaches. This was not

shrimp tail.

Belize and other countries.

Yes, permit are getting wiser to angling pressure. In some cases,

the case ten years ago.

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 97

In the Keys, shark populations

Regrettably, it has been integrated in

have increased. Shark predation—

other developments since.

particularly on the wrecks—is a huge problem with hooked permit. One

On a positive note, Bonefish & Tarpon

fish in four is lost to sharks. A recent

Trust, through Project Permit,

proliferation of turtles in Ascension

conducted an intensive and highly

Bay has led to them gobbling up

successful acoustic tagging and

significant quantities of the turtle

monitoring program. In identifying

grass that permit depend upon.

the major permit spawning area in

Now, we learn that our South Florida

the Florida Keys, Western Dry Rocks,

flats fish are being exposed to toxic

BTT scientists learned that its permit

materials and are hooked on drugs

spawn during the full moon periods

that make their way through sewer

over four peak months. Previously, it

and septic systems onto the flats.

was speculatively assumed by guides

Maybe people will stop eating so

and anglers that permit spawned

many permit? If not, we can at least

over one to two months, the peak

hope the sickle tails are ingesting THC

being May. BTT’s data persuaded the

and getting the munchies.

Florida Fish and Wildlife Commission to close all fishing around Western

Belize, where I have spent more

Dry Rocks from April through July

than three years of my life chasing

to protect permit. BTT has also

permit, is rapidly becoming the Keys.

launched a cooperative bonefish

The latest project is a proposed Four

program with Belize and Mexico.

Seasons development on the Placencia

Hopefully, permit will be next. After

peninsula featuring over-the-water

all, we now know that “our fish are

cabanas, which will ensure a further

your fish, and vice versa.”

loss of habitat and more people.

Looking forward, what does the next Leonardo DiCaprio didn’t wind up

decade—and beyond—hold in store for

doing this at his Blackadore Cay

intrepid permit anglers?

development. But the concept was approved by Belizean politicians.

98 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

Increasingly, we will seek new

horizons where there is less pressure on the permit and fewer people chasing them. In fact, to feed their inner wanderlust, fly throwers are beginning to embrace the global permit family. In my book A Passion For Permit (Wild River Press 2017), in addition to T. falcatus (the Atlantic permit), I identified eight similar-looking species within the same Trachinotus genus that grow to comparable sizes, feed primarily on crustaceans, and can be sight fished in shallow water in certain conditions. Technically, these eight “cousin species” are classified as pompanos. Without boring you with the nearly identical comparative numbers of dorsal spines and anal rays, taxonomically there are virtually no detectable anatomical differences between any of these species without resorting to an autopsy, where the swelling of the bones in some of these species, called hyperostosis, can conclusively identify the species.

The best known of what I now call the Great Eight, the Indo-Pacific permit, is classified as a pompano— so get over it! The magnificently colored T. blochii fins in the coastal waters of 70 countries, providing

decades of exploration and relative

species, T. teraia and T. goreensis.

The conundrum is that, for africanus

solitude for anglers. Another permit

Despite a huge effort in the lagoons

to feed on the mussels, it requires

found in Australia (and Taiwan), T.

and estuaries of Loango, we were

the sweet-spot tidal height range of

anak, is both prolific and a worthy

not successful. We also had the

1.5 to 1.9 meters, found only during

challenge. In Oman, one can chase

opportunity to pioneer the vast and

the flood tide periods of a given

T. blochii, T. africanus, and even

uncharted flats of Saudi Arabia, with

month. At such times, the africanus

have a slight chance of hooking T.

Brandon King (Arabian Fly in Oman)

throw caution to the wind and feed

mookalee (although it is primarily an

where T. blochii thrives. What an

voraciously, tails wagging and flailing

Asian species found in 15 countries).

adventure! Isn’t that what permit

in the air as they crunch sharp mussel

Ray Montoya pioneered this fishery,

fishing should be about?

shells. It is nirvana for the permit

with hundreds of miles of coastline

angler.

and numerous sandy beaches where

There isn’t enough space in this

wading is possible.

article to spill the beans on each of

The incoming waves seem benign,

the Great Eight, so let me introduce

until they break next to the shore

The Great Eight species I have caught,

you to the indomitable permit cousin

with a crashing boom and force

blochii, anak, and africanus, are

that is T. africanus (found in at least

that sends white plumes of spray

sensational gamefish. Don’t assume

12 countries), during one of my treks

airborne in the manner of geysers.

for one second that T. falcatus is

to Oman.

The timing of an africanus must

always the smartest, hardest to catch, or last word in permit fishing.

Lots of anglers can attest to how

CRAZY FISH

be perfectly balanced between incoming and outgoing waves to avoid

First off, without conjecture, these

being pancaked onto the cliffs. You

fickle, if not impossible, the Indos of

fish are crazy. Out of their minds,

occasionally see one dazed on the

Poivre can be.

with little regard for their health

surface, trying to recover from the

and safety while they’re feeding.

pounding.

Mike Ward (the recent winner of

Africanus seek their forage on the

the Del Brown Permit Tournament)

razor-sharp rocks, blackened by

Africanus are tough hombres,

and I have been traveling far and

dense mussel beds. Invariably, these

amazingly strong and well-

wide on an exploratory quest to add

delectable mussels are affixed to

conditioned. Stubbed fins, assorted

more Trachinotus species to our

layered boulders and coral shelves

scrapes, abraded gill plates, and

quivers. Recently, we ventured to

often tucked within the catacombs

sore pink lips are byproducts of

Gabon in West Africa to fish with

of the daunting cliffs that adorn

their lifestyle. From the angler’s

Arno Matthee (The Guide’s Company),

the shoreline of the Arabian Sea in

perspective, chasing africanus is a

seeking out two other Trachinotus

southern Oman.

cake with more layers than you have

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 99

ever eaten, representing a challenge

Terminal tackle requirements

where you can no longer pull line off

that frequently can be assessed at

are precise. A 10-weight fly rod is

the reel without an extreme effort.

Level 10. Here’s the playing field:

appropriate, fitted with a clear-tip

Don’t worry, the africanus can. Your

intermediate fly line, with a sinking

fly lands and sinks. With the rod tip

You’re in the back of a bouncing

tip length range of 5 to 30 feet,

in the water pointed at the fly, you

skiff, trying to keep your fly line

depending on the conditions. When

“crawl” out any slack. This is not a

under control. All eyes are looking for

I’m fishing, I seem to bring with me

retrieve—africanus will not eat a

tails. More so than with an Atlantic

a non-forecasted oceanic swell that

moving fly. Extend your arms forward

permit, the fly must land on—or just

can reach an additional meter in

to feed line when there is current.

beyond—the fish to get its attention

height. The weighted fly must reach

Just try to keep the fly in the same

in a very short time span. There may

the bottom quickly. A fly line with a

spot for as long as possible with a

be multiple africanus tailing in a tight

sinking section will help to keep it

tight line connection, while you feel

space. It’s a wasted cast, a washout,

there.

the running line for taps or bumps.

to deliver the fly while there’s wave

Strip-strike if you feel the take, tip

action. Wait for the brief flattening,

While you can land the fly on the

down—no trout sets. While you’re

when the frantic tails appear, to

head of an africanus, they are spooky

meditating for taps, you may be

deliver the fly. Now, you are sight

at the sight of an opaque fly line or

startled by a thumping strike instead.

fishing on the flats in clear water for

a light-refracting leader that crosses

tailing fish. At that moment, however,

their paths. Smart anglers will eschew

Now it’s time to go to war. Another

the seascape often mutates. As the

tapered leaders and go with 9 feet of

layer of the cake. Raise your rod tip

water drains, the fish have migrated

straight 30-pound, hard fluorocarbon.

high and pull with your line hand as

to riverine shelves and tight pockets.

One nick on the coral or mussel beds

hard as you can. Muscle this africanus

Your fly must land in these narrow

and it’s game over. Did I mention

as hard as you can. Try to steer its

slots, at the mercy of fickle currents

africanus are strong fish? A Bimini

head away from obstructions. Don’t

and quirky hydrology. While you may

loop attached to the fly line is a

let the fish dive. One nick on the

be casting to a stationary fish, the

better option than a perfection knot.

leader and you are now fishing with

position of your fly is always a moving target.

12-pound test instead of 30.

It’s time to hook an africanus.

Tighten your reel drag to the point

100 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

The guide will attempt to back the

skiff out of impending waves, lending

Bruises to my knees, but I was able

an assist to you as the line comes

to hold on.

tight on the reel. This is the moment of truth. At the slightest wavering

At last, the time to land your coveted

of tension, the africanus will take

prize is at hand. But there can be

control. Amazingly, this incredibly

more surprises. On another occasion,

strong Trachinotus species will begin

as the landing net touched the

to peel line off your winch. With a

water, my well-hooked africanus

head of steam, its next stop is back

went airborne, leaping 6 feet clear of

into the coral, unless you go to war

the net.

and try to thwart any protracted surge. Eventually, the africanus will

Finally within your grasp, the massive

appear near the boat. As soon as it

girth and thickness of the fish

sees shapes and movement on the

exceeds that of a comparable Atlantic

surface, it will descend. And you

permit. Upon release, as you grasp the

won’t be able to stop it. Nonetheless,

africanus’s wrist in front of its tail, it

this is the right time to loosen your

is pulsing with strength and concise

drag—slightly. The africanus is a

wiggles that evoke those of a small

master at diving under the boat

tuna. As the golden-hued beauty

at close range. One time, I literally

contacts the salt water once again,

had to dive over the gunwales, my

there is no fatigue, no concession. You

screeching reel frothing in the water,

have just danced with a beast.

to save my rod from extinction.

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 101

102 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

Unhappy Hookers When hooks wind up in fishermen instead of fish Story by E. Donnall Thomas Jr. Photos by Don and Lori Thomas

hooks and lures we removed from the

Back in 1980, before its famous king

of summer, our emergency room

salmon run crashed, the Kenai River

looked more like a sporting goods

was Alaska’s most heavily fished

store than a medical facility.

victims and posted them on a board running around the walls. By the end

“What brings you to the emergency room today, ma’am?” I asked sympathetically.

“My goddamn husband hooked me!” she bellowed back, pointing

stream. At the time, I was living and

angrily behind her at a terrified

working near its banks in Soldotna,

man cowering against the wall. I’m

the small town at the fishery’s epicenter. When the run was near its summer peak, the river grew crowded with visiting anglers, which is why I almost always fished elsewhere at that time of year.

As an internist, my primary hospital duties came in the intensive care unit, but in a small hospital with a limited medical staff, everyone had to take a turn in the emergency room. I had already learned that most visiting tourists arrived with an agenda to fulfill in Alaska, which usually included seeing a bear, watching the northern lights, and catching a salmon. Determination

During my tenure in Alaska, I removed hooks from almost every conceivable part of the human body, with anatomic details best left to the reader’s imagination. (Yes, even there.)

ashamed to admit that I already felt more sympathy for him than for the patient.

“I gather the hook is still in you,” I replied. “Where exactly is it?”

“In my boob!”

Oh boy, I thought, as our capable nursing staff reassured the woman, led her to an exam table, and began to remove her shirt and bra, an operation that required snipping some clothes and elicited a wail of protest about her ruined shirt.

And there it was, a magnum-sized Spin-n-Glo bobber riding a leader as

to accomplish the last of these goals

thick as an anchor line above the eye

seldom reflected competence as an

of a vicious-looking hook. Cursory

angler, which meant the guide boats

We were already off to a good start

examination revealed both good news

were full of inept clients hurling

one long day in late June when a

and bad. The good news was that it

large, barbed hooks buried in globs

large, loud woman with a thick Bronx

was a single hook and not a treble,

of salmon eggs across the powerful

accent arrived demanding immediate

which can be much more difficult

glacial current with more enthusiasm

attention. Sensing trouble, I began

to extract. The bad news was that

than accuracy—and predictable

the evaluation with my most

it had a barb, which was now firmly

results. The ER staff always saved the

charming bedside manner.

embedded adjacent to the nipple.

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 103

“This is so embarrassing!” she wailed

little picture of what we’re going to

removed hooks from almost every

as I gently poked and prodded.

do.” Intending to involve the guilty

conceivable part of the human

husband in the discussion, I looked

body, with anatomic details best

“I’m a doctor, ma’am. I’ve seen

around for him, but he had already

left to the reader’s imagination.

thousands of breasts.”

retreated—to the waiting room or,

(Yes, even there.) The eye was

as I suspected, the nearest bar. Then

one important exception. A hook

“Bet you’ve never seen one like this!”

I gave the nurses a look that said,

embedded in an eye represents an

She had a point.

“We’re all in this together, team,” and

emergency that should always be

prepared to go to work.

handled by an ophthalmologist.

“Don’t worry,” I reassured her. “We’ll have this out in no time, and it won’t

Should you encounter this situation ***

even hurt.”

in the field, keep the patient as comfortable as possible and seek

Fishhooks are supposed to wind up in

expert consultation. Do not attempt

“You’re going to put me to sleep,

the water or, even better, in a fish’s

to remove the hook.

aren’t you?’

lip, but fate does not always treat us so kindly. These events are usually

An ounce of prevention being worth

little more than a minor distraction,

a pound of cure, let’s turn our

especially for fly rod anglers who use

attention to avoiding these problems

“Maybe not for you! Can’t you at least

small hooks and take time to crimp

in the first place, beginning with the

use a lot of Novocain?”

down barbs. However, salt water

most vulnerable part of the body. I

“That won’t be necessary.”

often demands large hooks, and even

never fish without appropriate eye

“That won’t be necessary either. It

if we are careful about barbs, our

protection and strongly encourage

will hurt less without it.”

fishing companions may not be, a

companions to do the same (to the

point (no pun intended) I’ll illustrate

point of being obnoxious, according

“Can’t you send me to a specialist or

later. Every angler should understand

to some friends). For those who don’t

something?”

how to extract an embedded fishhook

wear corrective lenses routinely,

or, better yet, prevent the problem

protection usually takes the form

before it happens.

of polarized glasses, which improve

“Ma’am, we’re in Soldotna, Alaska.

I’m as special as it gets around here.

Now try to relax and I’ll draw you a

104 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

the ability to spot fish anyway. Most During my tenure in Alaska, I

of today’s high-quality sunglasses

allow clear vision even in low light

so many anglers (especially those

will make it easier to visualize. Think

situations, so clouds are no excuse

fishing with conventional tackle)

of the process in three steps:

for not wearing them. Now that my

believe in them. Barbless hooks are

aging eyes have trouble with light

more expensive to manufacture and

tippet, small flies, and knots, I also

to buy. Fortunately, the problem

appreciate the small near vision

is easy to solve with a good pair of

create an open loop.

correcting lens incorporated in many

needle-nose pliers. I try to crimp

models, which save me the trouble of

down all my hooks before they leave

2. Press down on the hook’s eye.

fumbling around with reading glasses

the tying vise, to avoid neglecting

when I’m trying to fish.

this task and having to fumble

1. Pass a length of stout tippet or

line through the bend in the hook to

3. Give the tag ends of the loop a

quick snap, with the force directed parallel to the skin surface.

around with it on the water.

The next important preventive

Done properly, this process will

measure should be obvious: crimp

Now to the heart of the matter:

disengage the barb and allow the

down those barbs! Fly rod anglers are

proper technique for removing a

hook to pop free with little pain.

usually good about this anyway, out

barbed hook if these preventive

Since you don’t want the loop to

of concern for the welfare of released

measures fail. For years, conventional

break when you tug on it, I like to

fish. Barbless hooks produce much

wisdom advised pushing the point

use line of 15-pound test or stronger.

less tissue damage and are far easier

forward through the skin, clipping

Depending on the location of the

to extract than those with barbs,

off the barbed section, and then

hook, this can often be accomplished

from both fish and anglers. Barbs

withdrawing the hook the way it

without help, but it’s easier if it’s

have been around forever, largely

came in. Unfortunately, as with

done by an assistant. There is a

because of the incorrect assumption

lots of conventional “wisdom,” this

natural tendency to tug gently on the

that they will result in fewer lost

method isn’t wise at all since it

leader, but that may be unsuccessful,

fish. In fact, the increased diameter

is painful and causes more tissue

prolonging the process and leading to

of the hook point produced by barbs

damage than a readily available

more discomfort. If someone else is

decreases the chance of a firm hook-

alternative.

performing the maneuver, encourage

up.

them to act counterintuitively and Although it’s simple, this technique

give the leader a sharp, hard tug as if

Unfortunately, most commercial

is difficult to describe verbally, and I

they were strip-setting the hook on

hooks come with barbs, because

hope the accompanying photographs

a fish.

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 105

and continuing to roll. (Yes, it hurt like hell.) I yelled at Lori to dispatch the fish with the priest. She did so promptly, but the fish and my finger were still in the net. Some quick but delicate knife work soon had my hand free, but the 3/0 hook and its barb remained deep in my finger.

Since we were fishing with heavy line, I had no trouble locating a spool of stout tippet. As I issued instructions, I could tell that Lori was uncomfortable with the job I outlined even though she is an experienced registered nurse. Just as I feared, her first effort resulted in a loss of nerve and a gentle tug that accomplished nothing except more pain in my finger. “Strip set!” I bellowed, and when she did so on her next try, the hook flew out easily.

With nothing more to be done at that point, I took the obvious course of action, picked up my rod, and was soon fast to another nice silver. *** The body part containing the hook

with conventional tackle. When one

What about the unhappy lady in the

should remain still during extraction.

of them brought up a particularly

emergency room that day? Although

If the hook is imbedded in an ear or

vigorous fish, I netted it, dropped

I thought I might have to sedate her

an extremity, immobilizing it with a

it on the deck, and made a dumb

to get the job done, I distracted her

firm grip may be useful to prevent

mistake. Eager to get my fly back

with a long series of questions about

flinching. Distracting the subject’s

in the water while we were still into

her day on the water. (She proudly

attention may be useful if they

fish, I decided to remove the hook

reported landing a Dolly Varden.)

are nervous or agitated—and who

with my fingers while the silver was

With her thus engaged, I slid a loop of

wouldn’t be?

still in the net. Using our readily

suture around the hook and popped it

available hook-out would have

out easily.

Here’s how the process plays out in

prevented what followed.

real life. One summer day near our

With the hook free at last, I grabbed

Alaska home, Lori and I were offshore

As soon as I touched the hook, the

a large Kelly clamp and showed her

in our skiff with two friends. She and

fish thrashed, tangling the hook

how to crimp the barb down.

I were catching nice silver salmon

in the net, and driving the point

near the surface on streamers

deep into my forefinger, leaving me

with barbs crimped down, while

attached to both the net and the

our companions mooched herring

fish, which was still very much alive

106 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 107

DECADE OF CONSERVATION

by TFFM Staff

witnessed an inspiring array of

We’re honored to have played a

conservation success stories as well

small role in keeping you informed

Being the voice of saltwater fly

as some disappointing setbacks.

about important conservation

fishing means many things. It

We’ve seen readers’ fervor sparked

issues for the past decade, and we

requires an examination of our past,

by concern for the future and have

hope you’ll continue to count on

the stories about the pioneers and

watched them heed calls to action,

Tail Fly Fishing Magazine to provide

predecessors who charted the path

lending their individual voices

important news and information

we now follow. It also entails an

to a conservation chorus that

about protecting and conserving

investigation of the present—the

policymakers can’t ignore.

the species and habitats we all hold

current state of saltwater fly fishing

dear.

and news of the latest techniques,

There’s always more work to be

destinations, and gear developments.

done, more causes to support, more

But perhaps most important, it

charitable donations to give. That’s

summary of notable conservation

demands that we look to the future,

the essence of natural resources

stories of the last ten years,

ensuring the marine resources that

conservation work and policy; it’s

realizing this list is by no means

form the foundation of our salty

ongoing and infinite, as we not

exhaustive. And if you know of an

passions remain healthy and vibrant

only repair damages from the past,

important conservation story that

for generations to come.

but also face new threats, both

needs to be told, please let us know

manmade and natural, and gird

about it.

Over the past decade of publishing

ourselves to meet challenges yet

Tail Fly Fishing Magazine, we’ve

unforeseen.

108 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

In that spirit, we offer a brief

Conservation Commission a sound scientific foundation for its February 2021 decision to impose a four-month, April-July fishing closure at Western Dry Rocks to protect spawning permit and other species when they’re most vulnerable. BTT tracked the spawning migrations of more than 150 permit in the lower Keys for five years and found that 71 percent of them spawned at Western Dry Rocks. BTT and collaborators also conducted two studies showing

EVERGLADES RESTORATION AND SOUTH FLORIDA WATER QUALITY Congress passed the Comprehensive Everglades Restoration Plan in 2000, more than a decade before we published our first issue, but the plan long suffered from a lack of funding and political support.

But thanks to groups like our friends at Captains for Clean Water, other conservation organizations, businesses, and concerned anglers and citizens, the tide has been turning in recent years. There’s new energy and political will to fund infrastructure and change ill-advised past plans that will send more fresh water south to the Everglades and Florida Bay, reducing harmful discharges from Lake Okeechobee into the Caloosahatchee and St. Lucie rivers, which have fouled both east and west coasts with toxic algae blooms, dying sea grass, and fish kills. Anglers and other recreational stakeholders had a seat at the table as the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers developed a new Lake Okeechobee System Operations Manual, a much

more nuanced and balanced plan that’s predicted to have significant positive impacts on estuaries and other marine resources. The momentum to repair past transgressions against Mother Nature in the Sunshine State was apparent earlier this year, when Captains for Clean Water spearheaded a media campaign to beat back a bad piece of water legislation in the Florida Statehouse. A bipartisan group of state senators introduced a bill that would’ve given Big Sugar an advantage in access to water flowing from the Big O. After receiving a petition with more than 40,000 signatures, more than 1,200 phone calls, and a veto threat from Gov. Ron DeSantis, senators added an amendment that removed most of the provisions that would’ve led to negative environmental impacts such as more red tides and fish kills.

PROTECTING PERMIT SPAWNING SITES IN THE FLORIDA KEYS Bonefish & Tarpon Trust led the charge to collect data to provide the Florida Fish and Wildlife

that more than a third of permit hooked at Western Dry Rocks were eaten by sharks prior to being landed. Last March, BTT committed another $600,000 to fund research at Western Dry Rocks and three other important spawning areas in the lower Florida Keys to help FWC monitor the effectiveness of spawning-season fishing closures.

ATLANTIC STRIPED BASS STOCKS Striped bass stocks along the United States’ East Coast fell to unprecedented low levels in the 1970s, leading to corrective measures in the 1980s and 1990s that led to a striper recovery

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 109

110 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

BONEFISH REPRODUCTION RESEARCH PROJECT Bonefish have attracted fly anglers for many years, but until very recently the science to help understand and manage the species was woefully inadequate. But that changed over the past six years through the collaboration of Bonefish

story that became a blueprint

the Deepwater Horizon oil spill.

for other marine species along

But restoration and conversation

the Atlantic Coast. But the stock

success was born of that last

assessment released in 2019 by the

tragedy. In July 2012, the RESTORE

Atlantic States Marine Fisheries

Act became law, creating the Gulf

Commission showed that the fish

Coast Restoration Trust Fund

that’s emblematic of an entire

in the Treasury Department,

coastal region is once again in

with 80 percent of the civil and

trouble—the assessment revealed

administrative penalties paid

the striped bass is overfished, and

under the Clean Water Act by

populations are well below target

responsible parties in connection

& Tarpon Trust, the National

levels. The finding triggered several

with the Deepwater Horizon oil spill

Fish and Wildlife Foundation,

conservation measures, including

going toward ecosystem restoration,

and many other partners. The

reduction of commercial harvest,

economic recovery, and tourism

Bonefish Reproduction Research

mandates for circle hooks when

promotion in the Gulf Coast region.

Project started in March 2016 and

using bait, and slot and possession

Together with funds from criminal

concluded with the release of its

limits. An even bigger issue, many

penalties associated with the spill

findings last February. The six-year

contend, is reining in the menhaden

(administered by the National

project focused on closing gaps in

harvest, which would provide more

Fish and Wildlife Foundation) and

knowledge on bonefish reproduction

food for stripers and other fish

penalties under the Oil Pollution

and life history. The goal was to

species.

Act of 1990, more than $16 billion

help reverse the decline of the

was available to mitigate ecological

economically important bonefish

and economic losses on the Gulf

fishery in the Florida Keys, and to

GULF COAST RESTORATION

Coast. That has given rise to some

provide information to contribute to

The Gulf of Mexico coastline has

impressive and important restoration

fisheries and habitat management

been beset by degradation for

projects, including manmade

strategies to protect spawning

decades. Mankind’s manipulation

barrier islands and water-diversion

sites and populations in Florida

of the natural environment started

structures on the Mississippi River to

and around the Bahamas and the

the deleterious process, and it

help rebuild the river’s delta and slow

Caribbean. The project has made

has been exacerbated by both

subsidence. The estuary around the

a quantum leap in advancing the

natural and manmade disasters,

Mississippi’s mouth is recognized as

understanding of bonefish biology,

including a devastating run of

one of the most fecund in the world,

especially in the realm of adult

events in the early 2000s that

a nursery for redfish, shrimp, crabs,

reproduction and juvenile biology.

included powerful hurricanes and

oysters, and countless other species.

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 111

Dorado on the Bank Fishing the Alto Paraná, an almost salty river

by Carlos Cortez

frequently elevates the game to the

preferred manner. Bonefish, tarpon,

highest challenge level. Success with

snook, triggerfish, milkfish, bumphead

For more than a decade, only one fish

the permit fuels my efforts, because

parrotfish, giant trevally. Each has its

has captured and sustained a special

chasing tails requires the constant

special characteristics and demands

place in my mind, and that is the wily

improvement of my skill set. The

different skills. But none of those fine

and elusive permit. On the flats, no

pleasure I feel is immeasurable.

fish has awakened the emotions that the permit generates in me. That is

other gamefish presents the angler with such a constantly evolving list

I have fished many species of great

the reason for my addiction. I did not

of variables to overcome. The quarry

sporting value by sight fishing, my

choose the permit; it chose me.

112 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

But a personal problem arose in 2019,

gorgeous predators on shallow sand

in back, push pole in hand. We glided

along with the restrictions that the

flats. This is a type of fishing that my

silently over long flats. Concentrating

pandemic later imposed. I was exiled

friends had already told me about, but

intensely, we scanned the vast river,

from those magical places for some

the permit would not let me listen.

looking for a flash, nervous water, a

time, although I still visited them perpetually in my mind.

vibrant orange tail bisected by a bold I imagined the trip as a social and

black line, or simply the golden yellow

recreational fishing trip, a reunion

splash of color that defines this

In January 2020, I accepted some

with friends, replete with interesting

gamefish.

friends’ invitation to fish for golden

talks and affection, but lacking strong

dorado in the Paraná River at

emotions in fishing. Nothing proved

To my amazement, this search

Corrientes, Argentina. The hook

further from the truth.

contained similar challenges and

was the opportunity to chase these

difficulties that I find on the Suddenly, I found myself on the bow

saltwater flats. The impressively

of an actual flats skiff, with a guide

clear water, with suspended material, and the sandy bottom are the ideal

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 113

and in the right way.

the situations that arose, how they originated, how I tried to solve

For those who relish the fight,

them, and what I could have done

the golden dorado is a formidable

differently. This post-mortem is a

adversary. It is very powerful,

personal quest for perfection that

exhibiting stamina and supreme

allows me to feel as though I will be

acrobatic skills. The size of these river

more prepared next time—exactly the

gladiators ranges between

process I am compelled to undergo

10 and 30-plus pounds; the average

after every permit trip.

size of the dorados that we’ve encountered is about 15 pounds.

The mental processes that take place before, during, and after fishing for

Prior to my immersion in this eye-

golden dorado on the sand flats evoke

opening angling arena, I imagined

the full range of emotions in me. The

each shot would require that I only

level of concentration needed to get

deliver the fly within the fish’s field

results will take its toll on any angler.

of view. To my surprise, I surmised if

In my path as a fisherman, I believe

the fly does not land on the often-

I have found another unexpected

aggressive dorado’s head, followed

gift of nature, one that has greatly

by stripping the fly as soon as it

increased my fishing time, while

touches the water, the shot will not

providing maximum enjoyment, at a

elicit a strike. Most likely, the golden

stage of my life in which quality time

dorado is either scared or indifferent.

is the most precious asset.

Many times, however, not even the shots that we consider perfect will

I am fortunate to have been

environment for the golden dorado to

provoke a reaction. It’s amazing

befriended by some individuals

be transformed into a golden ghost.

how the behavior of a dorado on

who have dedicated much time

the flats has so many similarities to

to developing this type of sight

The skills I needed are the same ones

those perplexing behavioral vagaries

fishing on the freshwater flats.

demanded by the permit: a very

exhibited by the permit.

Juandi, Robin, Agustín, and Rami are

quick reaction to make a cast, great

excellent fishermen, great fly tiers,

accuracy, line control, moving the fly

In the days following my time on

and excellent guides. They have

properly, and setting the hook in time

the water, I’ve continued to analyze

advanced the fishing paradigm of

114 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

Alto Paraná to a level of skill that’s

the river. He feels that there is no

sight fishing for dorado on sand banks

difficult to describe. The way each of

other activity that is more enjoyable

was Peto Dalle Nogare, an area guide

them approaches this sight fishing

and challenging than fly fishing.

who’s known for his innovation. When

sport is no less than an art form, even

For his part, Robin’s passion is

they learned of Peto’s attempts,

extending to dry fly fishing for two

centered around the service of other

this group of friends, with very little

other piscine omnivores, the pacú and

fishermen. Clearly, Robin is one of

information, began to walk their own

pirá pitá.

the most prestigious guides in the

path. With a lot of will and effort,

Corrientes area. When Robin is not

they unraveled the secrets of this new

Beyond the talks we had during our

guiding, he takes advantage of his

approach to golden dorado fishing. In

fishing days, I met with Juandi and

insatiable desire to fish.

the process, they evolved as guides

Robin to learn a little more about the

and fishermen, acquiring specific

origins of this way of fishing. Both

Juandi and Robin sometimes employ

of them started fishing at a very

electric motors, and at other times

young age, progressing through the

utilize a controlled drift. Sometimes

Over time, as impressive catches

various equipment and techniques

conditions unavoidably dictate the

of large golden dorados started to

such as bait fishing, trolling, and

need for blind casting at shoreline

occur, these angler-guides focused

casting with lures, ultimately

structures or large submerged rocks.

their knowledge on the search for

discovering fly fishing through

But when conditions allow, they

consistency. Each individual dedicated

enormous accumulated knowledge

gravitate to the most stimulating

as much time as possible to testing

and experience.

way—hunting the golden dorado on

and analyzing the best methods of

the flats-like sandbars.

tackling the diverse stretches of the

Today, Juandi is continually looking for ways to spend more time on

skills for both roles.

lengthy Paraná, a gorgeous river Both recognize that the forerunner of

with its headwaters in Brazil that

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 115

continues its bountiful flow through Paraguay and onto the Argentine sand flats.

When I asked Juandi and Robin about the keys to success on the sandbars, they emphasized the transition from searching with electric motors to using the push pole, allowing them to access more places, more quietly.

Equally, learning the habits and reading the attitude of the sábalos, which are the basis of the diet of the dorados lurking on the banks. The behavior of the sábalos is a palpable barometer of the proximity or level of activity of the golden dorado at that moment.

Other important factors include delivering the fly as quickly, accurately, and stealthily as possible, as well as recognizing the characteristics of the river structure of the most profitable and productive banks. Both individuals feel that concentration and patience at both ends of the boat pay dividends.

When fishing various flies and using different presentations, it’s imperative to analyze the reaction of golden dorado. Adjusting these factors can be the difference between success and failure. Like permit, there sometimes are very few shots in a day—other times there are many.

Juandi and Robin revel in the fact that they are in a stage of continuous learning. They keep growing by looking past pre-existing assumptions and remaining open to change so they can incorporate new knowledge through observation and analysis.

Juandi and Robin also give great value to sharing fishing days with other passionate anglers, who provide new points of view acquired from different experiences.

116 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

What are the necessary conditions?

bodies composed of natural feathers

And what can an angler expect from

to accentuate movement and heads

a day of golden dorado fishing on

constructed with synthetic fiber

the sand banks? The answers are

brushes to make the flies sink as soon

similar to what we find in saltwater-

as they touch the water.

flats fly fishing. We need visibility, along with the masking cover of

Somehow, the time that we’ve been

some wind; patience, accompanied

devoting to this type of fishing has

by focus on seeing the fish; and the

led us to understand that the optimal

mental preparation to make quick

way to do it is by using the same

and accurate shots. Since the chances

equipment and techniques used in

each day are limited, doing the right

saltwater flats, both for guiding and

thing in each encounter is essential.

fishing, which allows me to draw a

Once again, in lockstep with permit

parallel with permit fishing and make

fishing, the encounters usually

a comparison.

generate an overdose of adrenaline, while keeping anglers walking on the

Under typical conditions, I feel that

edge of frustration.

the golden dorado demands the same level of attention as the permit when

As for equipment, Juandi and Robin

it comes to searching for them. I find

recommend 8- or 9-weight fast-

the golden dorado more difficult in

action rods, using floating lines

the process of executing the shot,

specifically for warm waters and flies

while I feel that the process after the

of different sizes and colors, with

presentation is much simpler, when

we try to entice the dorado to take

a few seconds to prepare for the shot.

trying to put the fly on the head of

the fly.

Sometimes we can spot the golden

the dorado and have enough control

dorado with enough time to form a

of the line to move it immediately

Remember that we are in a river,

strategy, but many other times it

upon your presentation. These

where the current is often much

will enter the sand bank very close to

conditions require a succession of

stronger than on a saltwater flat. This

us and from any direction. In these

decisions and actions in less time and

characteristic takes away the guide’s

scenarios, the fish will quickly bolt

with less comfort for execution than

margin of mobility and position

before the guide calls an audible.

what’s required in permit fishing.

the angle of the boat is difficult to

Perhaps surprisingly, on average

All this greater difficulty is

do correctly on a timely basis. These

the golden dorado moves much

compensated by the simplicity of the

attempts often scare away the fish.

faster than the permit, and the

subsequent process. Once we present

adjustment, as braking or changing

changes of speed and direction are

the fly and initially move it with a

On a saltwater flat, due to the current

more frequent. Not surprisingly, the

long strip, the game is defined. The

and the line chosen by the guide,

ubiquitous wind is usually present

golden dorado attacks it or not. It is

we are more likely to foresee the

in both types of fishing. In permit

very unusual to make a movement

direction in which we will find most

fishing, the guide has some possibility

that generates a reaction afterwards,

of the fish. When we drift in the

of positioning the skiff to favorably

and there is almost never a second

river, the golden dorados can, and do,

tweak the casting angle for the

chance.

appear from any direction; there is no

angler. In dorado fishing, there are no

pattern to anticipate their presence

such possibilities.

or entry onto the sandbar. Conversely,

In permit fishing, meanwhile, when we get the fish to see our fly, the

although a permit can materialize out

So the norm in dorado sight fishing is

most important and difficult process

of nowhere, most of the time we can

to be hair-trigger prepared to make

begins. Most of the time, everything

see it with some advance anticipation,

very fast shots, in wide ranges of

we do next will define its reaction.

which allows the guide to decide on

distance, in any direction, without

That cat-and-mouse game can last

an approach strategy—and allows us

adjusting the position of the boat,

several seconds and requires us to

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 117

continue stimulating the fish until it

Armed with little knowledge, rod in

fisherman. Bill became my mentor

hopefully takes the fly.

hand, and with the wind as my only

and was able to transmit to me the

company, I began to take my first

true essence of fly fishing for permit.

Setting the hook is also different. The

steps, which were more like stumbles.

Since then, my angling life has

golden dorado has a bony and hard

Over time, I was able to develop the

been full of new experiences, visits

mouth. When it takes the fly, we must

necessary skills to both fool and land

to unexpected places, generating

generate great initial tension. On the

salmonids.

incredible relationships with guides

other hand, the soft mouth of the

and other fishermen who share my

permit requires soft and progressive

After two decades of fishing with

passion. These supportive and equally

tension.

very little company, I concluded the

possessed individuals enrich me day

time had arrived to seek interaction,

by day, with the shared feeling of

Hopefully, this comparison will aid

and share days on the water with

living a happily obsessed life.

permit anglers who are curious

fishermen who had the same

about golden dorado flats fishing as

convictions and compatible vision. Not

Each of these stages are fundamental

they prepare for the situations and

surprisingly, I undertook a new cycle

milestones in my life. They have

difficulties they might encounter.

of great learning. My first experiences

defined me, not only as a fisherman,

on saltwater flats would follow,

but also as a person. These days,

I look back and remember that day in

starting in July 2008. With persistent

I do not hesitate to add this new

March 1977 when, by chance, I found

effort and my previous knowledge,

discovery of golden dorado to that

a man, Eliseo Fernandez, intently

I adapted to the nuances and

list, an evolution which has conspired

practicing fly casting in a park in

intricacies of bonefish and tarpon.

to compete with my feelings for the

Buenos Aires. While observing him, I

permit. Both are now a daily presence

was riveted, almost in a trance. Eliseo

It was in Key West in February 2009,

in my thought processes, and a

selflessly offered to teach me to cast.

when I had the fortune to meet

coveted part of my fishing time.

In the span of two hours, he taught

Captain Bill Houze, who exposed me

me the fundamentals of fly fishing.

to the tailing fish with the black tail

Indeed, the waters of the Paraná

that made me feel like a beginner

River, at times, feel salty.

I remember my first days of solitude

again. That trip was the origin of the

in the rivers of South Patagonia.

most important cycle in my life as a

118 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

PHOTOGRAPHY: MATT HARRIS

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Flying High forTarpon

by Joe Doggett

“I know how to tie 50 knots, and

sharp jerk, and the tippet snapped.

these are no good,” stated Costa

With a shrug, he tossed the unworthy

Rican guide Guinder Edwin Velasquez-

ruin of monofilament into the olive-

I was impressed. This unseemly

Clark. The subject of his scorn was

brown flow of the Rio Colorado.

villager in his faded T-shirt and torn

quick jerk and the sections held.

the tarpon leader that I had manfully

shorts wrapped connections that

labored over during the noon siesta

looked as good as the ones illustrated

break at Archie Fields’ old Rio

in the sweat-stained and oft-cursed

Colorado Lodge.

bible of knots back in the cabin.

During the spring of 1982, my tarpon

“I have learned from the best. Chico

game had more hackles than the

Fernandez, Lefty Kreh, Stu Apte—

nearest streamer. The serious fly

they have all come here to fly fish for

fishing market was just starting to

tarpon.”

gain momentum around my home in Houston.

Many saltwater masters rate the tarpon as the king thrill. And, during

“How can you say that, Guinder,” I

those early years, I would never

protested, eying a lumpy spider hitch

have a better chance than amid the

and giving the 16-pound-class tippet

tarpon-rich tides of Costa Rica’s rain

a tentative twiggle. Unfortunately,

forest rivers.

tarpon do not twiggle.

Guinder cranked the crusty outboard “No good, not snug, poor knot

“If you want to catch tarpon on a

and we ran several hundred yards

strength.” Guinder was young and

fly, nothing less than 90 percent will

from the dock. The motor abruptly

cocky, and it was understood up

do.” Guinder grabbed several spools

stopped and the skiff drifted.

front than the opinions of anybody

of mono and, using hands, knees,

with four names and a hyphen

toes, and teeth, whipped out a leader

would dominate the confines of a

system consisting of a perfection

16-foot aluminum skiff. He grabbed

loop, a Bimini twist, and an Albright

“We’re here; start fishing,” Guinder

the leader in both hands and gave a

special. He tested it with the same

announced.

120 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

Great, I thought, engine trouble.

“Here? The dock’s right back there!”

“Well, señor, if you prefer we can run an hour to a spot I know upriver, but this hole is filled with big fish.”

The river opened into the boil of the Caribbean and, back then, the main channel served as a funnel to draw schools of milling tarpon. As Guinder slipped the anchor, several fish surfaced in lazy rolls, intimidating brutes with thick backs stamped with heavy scales and poured from liquid aluminum. I was a long way from Houston’s Hermann Park duck pond.

Scattered skiffs dotted the wide river.

The nearest was a Casa Mar boat close enough to hail. It held a pair

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 121

and feathers. “No good.”

“Say what?”

“We use a special fly here. I tie them—like this.” Guinder fished from a pouch a bushy lashing with fluff and fullness rivaling that of a well-fed white-winged dove. It sported a thick collar, flashy Mylar strips, and a pair of bright bead-chain eyes. It lacked only a beak and feet for an audition in a Disney cartoon.

“Get away from me with that thing!

What’s wrong with these?” My Orvis masterpieces looked wilted and withered alongside.

“Better do what he says, Houston,” called the California pro on the bow.

“This isn’t sight casting on the flats.

Those big ‘Whistler’ streamers are the ticket. They push a lot of murky water, easier for fish to sense. That’s all we’ve been using.”

“What pattern?” I asked, pro-to-pro.

“Red and yellow’s been hot.” of pro-class anglers from California.

Kime, a legitimate Big Name. As we

“Black and red’s the call,” confided his

They carried high-end Fenwick

watched, Kime yelled as a great green

partner.

rods; one was fitted with a golden,

and silver fish twisted into air, hanging

gleaming Seamaster, the other with a

suspended against the jungled canopy

“Pay no attention,” said Guinder, the

golden, gleaming Pate.

before crashing back to the flat water.

voice of reason. “Green and orange is

The shout was followed by a groan as

best, but I can let you have all three

the fish pulled free.

for only $3.50 each. American.”

gleaming Fin-Nor. The reel was

I held my fly box open for inspection,

Armed with three new killer flies,

spooled with a sinking line backed

displaying the pride of the new

I waited for Guinder to affix the

by 200 yards of “9 thread” 27-pound

Houston Orvis. Prominent was a

green-and-orange whistler to the

Dacron. Rookie status aside, I felt

lineup of streamlined flies of proven

80-pound shock leader (nobody said

“armed and equipped as the law

cockroach patterns. From Key West

“bite tippet” back then). He handed

directs.”

to Islamorada to Homosassa, tarpon

the fly over for inspection. It had been

specialists would nod approval. The

secured with a trim Rhodes loop knot,

Guinder noted that the lanky, salty guy

guide’s fingers ran a quick parade and

and the big 4/0 hook gleamed with

fishing solo across the river was Harry

review through the assembled hair

white-hot sharpness.

I glanced smugly at my cutting-edge Orvis boron 11-weight and golden,

122 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

Guinder held up a small file (nobody

a decent double haul and shot the

wasn’t that dramatic, but the fly

knew about chemically sharpened

line about 75 feet across the river.

stopped against heavy life. I pulled

points back then). “They are never

The short leader turned over and

straight back, a proper strip-strike

sharp enough from the box for

dropped the fly with a light touch.

to set the hook. The weight of the

tarpon. I have triangulated the point

Guinder said nothing but once again

startled fish transmitted like a

the way Chico Fer…”

sat upright on the beer cooler.

charge of electricity through the fly

“Never mind about Chico Fernandez.”

The current caught the sinking line,

I stepped onto the flat bow and

creating a growing weight as the

I hit again, reacting to a gathering

started stripping generous coils of

length bellied to straighten. I pointed

force of uncontrollable power. A

shooting line. I worked a cast into the

the rod tip low and started a slow

6-foot tarpon twisted high, heaving a

air, getting the feel of the big outfit.

retrieve, stripping a foot or so with

fan of spray. The bold gills were wide

The outrageous fly buzzed back and

each pull. The dark line fell in random

against the shaking head, and the

forth like a persistent parakeet, and

coils on the deck.

fish seemed to vibrate like a tuning

line.

the uncertain guide crouched behind the bulk of the outboard.

fork.

After 15 or 20 minutes of steady casting, a tarpon struck. The take

Gathering confidence, I let drive with

I felt like a sorcerer’s apprentice waving the master’s wand. I stared

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 123

in shock and awe. Steppenwolf had

across the surface.

called it: “Fire all of your guns at once and explode into space!”

snarl of twisting loops bounced and whipped and fired straight at the rod.

I glanced down to see the coils

The knot slammed into the stripping

tangled underfoot. The terrible-

guide and the rod sprang slack. I

Then the hooked tarpon was running,

looking wad of fly line was in a frenzy

stared at the fouled guide and the

and outgoing line seared an arc

against my clamped fingers. The

diminishing wake of the largest fish of my fly rod career.

“Hey, Houston,” laughed the Californian. “What are you doing over there—working on your Junior Woodchuck Basket-Weaving Merit Badge?”

Tarpon No. 2 was a mondo-giant house wrecker. Guinder guessed it at over 125, a thick “yellow belly,” grouchy with age and furious at the insignificant fly. The fish came straight up, looking high enough to walk under, and toppled back against a prehistoric welter.

Remarkably, the rod still pointed the way and the tarpon was “on the reel” as line hissed smoothly from the spool. The fish blasted for 50 yards then the fly pulled loose. Dejected, I reeled in and discovered that the hook had opened against metalplated jaw pressure. Guinder’s hooks maybe weren’t the best.

Tarpon No. 3 tried to choke me.

It struck during an unguarded moment—Guinder, another icy Imperial, por favor—and once again a billow of maniacal shooting line flew about the bow. I raised the rod high, trying to take up slack, and the last of the up-rushing coils fouled in the line clippers dangling from my neck.

The snagged lanyard sprang tight, and I screeched and sputtered with visions of bold headlines in the Tico Times back in San Jose: “American fishing writer found garroted on

124 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

Rio Colorado; embassy demands

At least the tippet was intact. The

arm waved, lifting a longneck. “Hey,

investigation.”

hook point was good, and the long

Houston, I think you’re going to do

rod shot a cast across the afternoon

it!”

The tippet broke, and I was 0 for 3

shimmer. The line swept deep and

and out of killer flies. When Guinder

the fly snagged bottom, forcing a

As if hearing, the shining fish turned

stopped laughing, he offered another

break-off.

on its side, spent. Guinder reached

jazzy, snazzy trio. “Because you are

for the shock leader and glided the

such a good customer, a discount.

“I have more flies and at a special

tarpon close. The big eye rolled as the

Only $10 for all three. American.”

price,” announced the guide, reaching

stick gaff snatched the gaping lower

for the pouch.

jaw. The fish wallowed and bucked,

“The fly-tying business seems to treat you well, Guinder.” No doubt he

pinned to the side of the skiff and “I still have one.”

going nowhere.

mountains and built on a foundation

The final Whistler drove 85 or 90

Guinder looked up and smiled. “A 50

of broken tippets.

feet across the river. If nothing

pounder. Small fish.”

had a palatial estancia high in the

else, the full afternoon of casting Tarpon No. 4 was on for four Roman-

was improving the double haul. The

“That may be, my guide—mi guia,” I

candle jumps before it fell against

line bellied and swung—and pulled

said, “and Chico Fernandez no doubt

tight line and broke free. “Too much

tight against a solid grab. The strip

has caught many larger ones. But I’ll

pressure,” critiqued the guide. “You

stabbed the point and bent the rod.

bet he’s also caught many smaller

must give controlled slack on the

ones.”

jump by bowing to the tarpon. Chico

A tarpon-cascade raged across the

Fer…”

surface and coiled line spun from the

We posed the tarpon for a quick

deck and through loose fingers. The

photo then slipped it back into the

“Guinder, I don’t want to hear about

fish hit the reel and the Fin-Nor took

river. Guinder held the lower jaw and

it.”

the jolt without balking. Fly line shot

worked the chromium fish back and

through the guides, followed by the

forth in the flow until the gills flared

Tarpon No. 5 was never hooked.

trim backing knot as Dacron raced

and the fins bristled. He opened his

I couldn’t get tight to the fish. It

after the run.

hand, and with a confident swirl the

sucked up the fly and ran straight at

tarpon was gone—the conclusion to

the boat. I was watching the pile of

I worked the fish hard, fearful of a

inert line and kept trying to push a

break-off, but knowing that toying

busy handful through the stripping

with a tarpon is a poor tactic. The

I snipped off the victory fly as a

guide. The rod didn’t want it. A

idea is to pressure the fish to whip its

trophy and studied the glowing

hideous sag of slack kept falling to

spirit—and hope that Lady Luck joins

clouds above the shrouded

the deck.

the beach party.

mountains. The calm jungle air felt

No way this is going to end well, I

After six or eight jumps and 20

minutes of good light. Let’s try for

astutely judged.

minutes of give and take, the tarpon

another. What’s the going rate for a

was wavering and plodding. The big

new fly?”

one of the pure angling experiences.

wonderfully cool. “We’ve still got 30

The incoming tarpon jumped

tail broke the murky water and the

alongside, almost hitting the

low 11-weight put side pressure to

Guinder fingered through the pouch

outboard on the way down as Guinder

turn the fish and keep it on top.

and held up a tropical beauty. “For

held the stick gaff like a riot club. The unset fly sailed free.

you now, Señor Pescador—free.”

A boat motored slowly past—the California fly masters going in early

“Too much slack,” he said, a master

after a pair of catch-and-releases. An

of understatement.

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 125

Deep Gravy Permit guilt, creeping conflict, and fly fishing ecstasy in Belize

by Trey Reid

Bracey had several good shots about 75 yards from the boat before the school made a hard right turn toward the rising sun—well above the horizon now but still low in the eastern sky. Their course was bringing them straight toward me and the anchored panga. I pulled my 9-weight from the rod holder and stripped line off the reel as I climbed out of the boat and scurried into casting position.

The school was moving right to left about 50 feet in front of me, and it was massive. I laid a Raghead Crab

We idled out of the river channel

in front of the lead fish and slowly

We left the dock at 6:30 a.m., a

into the lagoon on the west side of

stripped it. Nothing. I sent another

relatively late departure by the

town, rounding the southern point

cast into the front-left portion of

standard we had set over the

of Turtle Island before heading

the school and made long, slow

previous four days of fishing around

north on the bay side of Ambergris.

strips. They were on it, turning hard

Ambergris Cay, Belize. By any

Ever vigilant, Marin scanned the

to track the fly straight toward me.

definition, the trip was already an

turquoise waters as we glided

My heart rate accelerated with every

unqualified success—so productive

across the surface. We slowed to an

inch of the gap they closed: 30 feet .

that it’s awkward even now to

idle upon reaching an area where

. . 25 feet . . . keep stripping, man . . .

recount it. I had landed four permit

we’d found permit the previous

20 feet . . . eat it, you bastards!

and recorded two Grand Slams—the

afternoon. But the fish weren’t

most productive saltwater fly fishing

there, so we continued northward

I imagined a watery demise, being

trip of my life—and my friend John

to another flat next to a small

overrun by a school of a hundred

Bracey, with whom I fished most of

island. Marin pointed out a school

feeding permit, flogged to death by

the week, had caught his first two

before the boat came off plane.

black tails, puffy lips sucking on the

permit, the first coming on the same

remnants of my floating corpse on

day as his first tarpon and closing

Nervous water sold out the school,

a Belizean flat—poetic retribution,

out a Grand Slam. Over a breakfast

which materialized fully in copious

perhaps, for the zeal with which I’ve

of San Pedro Jacks and fresh mango,

dark shapes and random silver

pursued their kin. But with just a

we agreed that we couldn’t complain

flashes. Tips of dorsal fins and

few feet of fly line outside the rod

if we didn’t catch a single fish on the

tails punctured the gently rippled

tip, the school slowly peeled to its

last day, a sentiment we shared with

surface less than a hundred yards

right and reversed direction.

our guide as we idled away from the

from the boat. Bracey scrambled

dock.

over the panga’s starboard side

“Let’s go find another school,” Marin

as the anchor found purchase on

said.

“Everything today is gravy,” said

brilliant white sand. Marin eased

Captain Gordy Marin, who had guided

into the water behind him, and they

We barely had time to plane out the

us all week and who was now steering

made a quick but cautious approach

panga before another big school

his boat, Silver Ghost, beneath the

to get ahead of the blithely feeding

appeared a few hundred yards north

Boca del Rio Bridge in San Pedro.

school.

of where we had just been refused.

126 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 127

even now to mine the experience too deeply.

Like most permit anglers, I’m familiar with failure. I live in landlocked flyover country, more than 1,000 miles from the nearest permit water. As my evolution as a saltwater fly angler has progressed, I’ve spent a considerable amount of money and time with modest returns in the way of permit. But that changed drastically—and dramatically—during five days in northern Belize.

I landed a permit within the first hour of fishing on the first day of the trip, and I was truthfully content not to catch another fish all week. But the fishing only got better. Two days later I watched Bracey catch his first tarpon, a hefty resident fish in the 50-pound range, and then I subdued a similar fish an hour and a half later. A few hours after that, I climbed atop Marin’s poling platform to behold him and Bracey wading toward a school of permit under a leaden sky. Minutes later, my friend was admiring his first permit, which was also the final element of his first Grand Slam. Certain that I’d have to experience that rare thrill as a vicarious witness, I was surprised when Marin told me to grab my fly rod and get my ass in gear to intercept the school again. After two missed eats in quick succession, I was hooked up to my second permit in three days. Thirty minutes later, I was overjoyed to catch a

Ignominy and Incredulity

came close last April in Belize. I still

scrawny bonefish that gave me my

struggle to describe the sensation; a

first Grand Slam.

lingering fear of misunderstanding

I’m not sure it’s possible to feel

and wrong assumptions about my

We were breathing rarefied air, but I

guilty about catching fish, but I

motivations makes me hesitant

wasn’t reticent about sharing tales

128 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

“Yeah, man,” Marin said. “But we got so much gravy, it’s gonna get so deep it’s gonna cover up the turkey.”

of our good fortune with friends

waterfront was fully awake. Bracey

back at El Pescador Lodge. I had

and I both landed bonefish before

never tasted this kind of angling

lunchtime as we awaited our turn

success, and I was inebriated by the

to board the permit carousel on the

mysterious elixir. So this is what

flat where we’d both caught them

success feels like?

the previous day. The word was out among Ambergris guides, and the

The next day, elation almost

school was getting pounded, with

imperceptibly gave way to ignominy

guides lining up their boats to have

and incredulity. We started early

their anglers take turns wading

again, and I was treading water

onto the flat.

to take a picture with another solid tarpon before the San Pedro

Marin had seen enough, so we left to look for less-pressured fish, finding them a few miles away.

Bracey hooked up on his first cast to a school of big permit, but the fish slipped the hook 30 seconds into the fight. Marin spotted another school a few minutes later, and we waded toward them under the bright midday sun. They ignored the first presentation, but after my second cast and a few long, slow strips, the line came tight. It was my third permit of the week, a bruiser leaning toward 25 pounds, and it capped a second Grand Slam.

Bracey caught the day’s second

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 129

permit just a few minutes later, and

asks for details about our day, I’m

were everywhere, but we hadn’t yet

I added my second of the day and

not gonna lie about it. But maybe

fed one despite several good early

fourth of the trip before we headed

we shouldn’t volunteer anything.”

shots. That was about to change.

Moonwalking up the dock was out

Marin got the boat well ahead

I was ecstatic, but conflicted

of the question. Until it wasn’t. But

of another big school. More

thoughts crept into my head. This

we were the first boat back to the

than a hundred strong, it was

isn’t supposed to be happening. Is

lodge, and only our wives and Marin

pushing northward parallel to an

this what impostor syndrome feels

witnessed my shameless spectacle.

uninhabited cay. We dropped anchor

like?

Just getting it out of my system,

in knee-deep water and all three

you know. And we still had one more

bailed out of the boat to ease into

day of fishing.

position. Bracey hooked up quickly,

back to the lodge.

Bracey, who’s unflappably modest, must’ve felt something, too.

line peeling off his reel as the rest

“You know, maybe it’s getting to

So much gravy

the point that we shouldn’t say

It was the last of five days on the

and slowly reversed course via a

anything about this when we get

water, the last Friday of the month,

wide arcing turn in slightly deeper

back,” he said. “I mean, if somebody

the day before a new moon. Permit

water. Marin and I took off to

130 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

of the fish stayed tightly together

intercept the school, and there was

I reminded him that I was literally

four hours chasing two big schools

no easing into position this time.

twice his age, and that I didn’t

of permit that roamed back and

We rushed southward, sporadically

usually run the 100-meter dash in

forth along the cay, wading into the

sinking into loose silty pockets in

water and mud before casting to a

water for stealth when we could

the sand. I covered the hundred

school of a hundred permit.

and casting from the bow of Marin’s

yards through thigh-deep water

panga when there wasn’t time to

and sucking mud in a time best

“It’s not easy to catch permit, man,”

scramble over the side. Together, we

measured by a sundial, my heart

he said. “You got to work for it

hooked six more permit, bringing

pounding from a combination of

sometimes.”

five to hand. The sixth should’ve

exertion and excitement, but we were in position.

been landed, but it was part of a Fair enough. We quickly went back

triple hook-up that Marin lost in his

to work, getting into another school,

zeal to make it a quadruple.

I cast in front of the school at a

or maybe the same school, a few

perpendicular angle. It wasn’t my

minutes later. Marin got in on the

best presentation, and Marin made

action and doubled with Bracey,

sure I knew that. The captain and I

and I brought the morning’s fourth

had reached a shaky détente by the

permit to hand 15 minutes later.

last day of the trip. He had revealed

My second fish of the morning gave

himself as a demanding young guide

us five before 9 a.m. And it was all

on the first day, brash almost to the

gravy.

point of insolence at times. But he had put us on the fish, and we were

“Yeah, man,” Marin said. “But we

improving as a result of his prodding

got so much gravy, it’s gonna get so

and pressure. He wanted perfection

deep it’s gonna cover up the turkey.”

and expected at least something approaching excellence; mediocrity

Our metaphorical gravy, a fly fishing

was intolerable. “I’m not gonna lie

dream made of glimmering slabs

to you,” he said. “That cast wasn’t

with forked black tails, indeed

good.”

grew deeper. We spent the next

I gulped from the cup of permit glory, taking in the spectacular sight of three fly fishers with bent rods, pulling against fastidious fish and long odds.

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 131

I hooked up with a dinner-plate

couldn’t hold back laughter. Or my

fighting his permit, and grabbed

permit from the front of the panga

opinion, yelling, “Don’t die, John!”

another fly rod out of the rod holder.

during the day’s last frenzy, jumping

“What the hell are you doing?” I

over the port side to fight it while

Now a dozen yards left of the boat,

asked. “I can’t help it, man,” he said.

Bracey crawled over the starboard

I kept the smallish permit tight

“I’m greedy.”

gunwale to chase a portion of the

but wasn’t rushing anything—if I’m

school that veered right when it

being honest, to prolong the chance

Our cocky young guide tucked the

split in two. Marin also waded into

of a triple hook-up. Bracey’s effort

fly rod with the fish tethered to

the fray, grabbing one of my rods

was rewarded, and line surged off

it between his thighs and laid out

and sending a cast toward the part

of his reel as the day’s 11th permit

a long cast with the second spare

of the school that lingered with my

bowed the rod. I gulped from the

rod. It was too much gravy. The

fish. He stripped and set the hook

cup of permit glory, taking in the

quadriceps method of fighting

on Silver Ghost’s tenth permit of

spectacular sight of three fly fishers

permit caused tension on the line,

the day. Meanwhile, Bracey covered

with bent rods, pulling against

and Marin’s fish broke off. Bracey

about 150 circuitous yards through

fastidious fish and long odds. I

and I landed our fish, kneeling

soupy sand, still in the game,

was still incredulous, but no longer

down in the water to release the

advancing and retreating, drifting

sheepish. I reckoned that I had paid

fish together as Marin snapped a

and dancing in all directions as the

my dues in money, sweat, time, and

photograph.

permit dictated. He had numerous

disappointment. It’s supposed to

good shots that didn’t yield eats.

be fun, and right then, I couldn’t

I might never pass this way again. I

“Run, John,” Marin coached and

imagine it ever being better.

certainly don’t expect to. And that’s

cheered. “More right, man. More

okay. I’m Southern; I know a thing or

right. Go, John! You can do it, man!

Marin broke my reverie when he

two about gravy—it’s delicious, but

I trust you, John. Run, John!” I

shuffled back to the panga, still

too much of it isn’t good for you.

132 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 133

GT Behavior

& Hangouts 134 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

by Peter McLeod

motivation for being in a particular locale is dictated by water

Catching a giant trevally on a fly

temperature, tide levels, available

rod is the pinnacle of flats fishing—

food sources, and seasons, an

highly challenging and requiring

understanding of the areas they

skill and preparation. In my book,

frequent is vital. There is no quick

GT: A Fly Fisher’s Guide to Giant

and easy fix. It is just a question

Trevally, I cover where to catch

of understanding what motivates

these gangsters of the ocean, their

them, covering the ground, and

behavior, equipment, tips, and

putting in the hours on the flats

techniques from expert guides all

and the other areas they hang

around the world. The summary

out. The more ground you cover

like baby tarpon, they feel safe from

here should get you started until

and the more of their environment

larger predators and in turn can

you can put your hands on a copy of

you can visit, the more chances

hunt other bait inhabiting the same

the book.

you have of getting a shot. When

areas. Once they attain a certain

that shot comes, you need to be

size, perhaps 20 to 40 centimeters,

So where do we find GTs? These

ready—the opportunity comes and

they will begin to group together

predators are some of the most

goes like a match lit in a wind. It

and move out to deeper water to

opportunistic feeders swimming

can be not only physically but also

find structures such as coral reefs,

in the ocean. To catch GTs on fly

mentally challenging to maintain

dropoffs, or channels. These locales

you will first need to enter their

that level of concentration for an

contain strong currents where

environment and then hunt them

extended period of time, often

schools of bait are buffeted, making

in it. There is nothing random about

while just trying to stay upright on

them easy targets for the fast

how GTs move. Their movements

coral or surf.

and powerful trevallies. As a rule

are dictated by their unique

of thumb on the flats, the larger

understanding of their environment

Because these bruisers are so

the group of GTs, the smaller the

and the availability of food. In a

adaptable, their hunting grounds

fish are. The really big fish tend to

similar way to humans, individual

range from offshore rock pinnacles

remain as singles. The exception to

fish have their own characteristics

to coral reef edges, channels, flats,

this is when a high concentration

and preferences.

and estuarine systems. Juveniles

of food draws large concentrations

tend to be more prevalent in

of trevally to an area, including the

estuaries and river systems where,

bigger fish.

Although their overriding

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 135

As soon as the tide allows, even

I have decided to follow the ebb and

and momentum to smash into

very large GTs will venture onto

flow of a tidal cycle.

unsuspecting prey. As the angler is

flats and headlands to hunt, using

pushed farther back from the surf

networks of channels or areas

SURFING

of deeper water. GTs can also be

Right at the start of the pushing

gain access to the flats. It is time

found along reef edges and points

tide, one of the best places to

for the angler to move and stake

where large pounding swells crash

find GTs is in the surf on the reef

out the channels that the GTs use

on the reef and rock, stirring up

edge. The waves provide an ideal

as highways.

food and creating the ideal hunting

habitat for GTs to maraud up and

ground. They will eat pretty much

down while smaller fish struggle

anything that moves or swims and

to maintain position and balance.

CHANNELS AS GT HIGHWAYS

are totally opportunistic. I have

At low tide, the front of the reef is

Channels are the first sections on

seen them charge packs of baitfish

the perfect place to start, looking

the flats to become submerged

and tail on crabs on the flats, and

in all the cuts and holes. GTs sit in

and the last to lose water. All fish

I have even heard of fish along the

these holes and wait like trout in a

will generally swim in the deepest

dropoffs ganging up and taking out

stream for unsuspecting baitfish to

water available to them, and GTs

small sharks. On Goulette Island on

be washed over their heads where

are no exception. If you study a map

Farquhar Atoll, the GTs have even

they are easily intercepted. As the

of the flats, you will clearly see a

figured out the breeding habits of

tide begins to gain momentum,

network of channels that resembles

the thousands of sooty terns that

the GTs become more active in

the veins in a leaf. Always look for

breed there. In the autumn they will

anticipation of their entry onto the

intersection points from deeper

track and eat a whole sooty tern

flats. Fishermen can then move

water to lagoons or flats. Bonefish

(one innovative angler landed a GT

back across the coral bars as the

behave in the same way, but earlier

on a “bird fly” he made out of a full-

surf increases and use the waves as

in the tidal cycle. In lagoon systems

sized black flip-flop; the GT ate it

windows into the world of the GT.

such as Christmas Island, the GTs

whole). For a fly angler, these areas

There is nothing quite like watching

have preferred paths they will use

of flats and coral dropoffs are ideal

a wave lift and seeing three or

to gain access to the back of the

places to hunt them. In an effort to

four GTs surfing down the inside

lagoon and the feeding grounds

bring them into some kind of order,

of the wave, using the extra speed

there. The same goes for large

136 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

line toward the shore, the GTs will

flats with depressions or channels

such shallow water is that you can

or estuaries are particularly good

running through them such as Orvis

spot them from a considerable

on dropping tides as they suck

Flat on Christmas Island, Second

distance if the visibility is good,

small fish off of the flats much

Island on Farquhar, or Little Snake

and they also move water, giving

like tigerfish homing in on bulldog

Island in Sudan. These GT highways

away their positions. Always be on

baitfish on the Zambezi.

provide the perfect access points

the lookout for bow waves, nervous

to the flats, just like a motorway

water moving against the tide, and

On large open flats with a

connecting towns and cities. It

also splashing on the surface as

combination of turtle grass and

can be worth staking out these

they hunt. Keep an eye out for birds,

sand, such as the Cosmoledo Lagoon

highways on an incoming tide and

which will often track them across

or Green Mile on Farquhar, always

spending a little time to see what

the flats, looking for an easy meal

keep an eye out for stingrays. Like

comes along heading onto the flats.

as the GTs stun baitfish.

permit and bonefish, GTs like an

If you have the patience, you will not be disappointed.

easy meal, which means they will Pancake flats, by their very nature,

follow stingrays along the flats as

are an excellent hangout for GTs.

they grub around. Normally going

Pancake flats are small, hard coral

dark and adopting the color of

Whether it be pancake flats, turtle

flats often covered in turtle grass,

their hosts, they can sometimes

grass flats, coral flats, or sand flats,

which have deep water all around

be hard to pick out. So if you see a

once the water reaches critical

them. The pancake flats inside

stingray, it’s always worth a cast

height, the GTs will slip over the

the Christmas Island Lagoon, for

in their direction. These ray-riding

edge and start to prowl like packs

example, have long been an ideal

GTs will jump on any food item

of dogs, or in some cases as lone

bonefish spot, as large fish can

that wanders in their path. Tim

wolves. They tend to be attracted

scoot off of the flat in a hurry if

Babich believes that this is a two-

to depressions (deeper areas within

they become alarmed. By the same

way relationship, and the rays use

the flat), white holes, and any

token, deep water right next to

the GT as an early warning device

structures that they can use as

shallow flats will encourage GTs

against sharks and other predators.

ambush points. The great thing

to add them to their patrol route.

He has seen rays follow a GT after

about having such a large fish in

Pancake flats inside atoll lagoons

it was spooked off, catch up with

THE FLATS

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 137

it, and then begin feeding again.

Although baitfish patterns remain effective, they can be refused if the GT is totally dialed into the feeding of the ray in this situation. They are looking for food stirred up off the bottom by the ray. In this instance, a tan Clouser or large crab pattern can be highly effective.

GT SNACK BARS AND BEACHES Once the tide is reaching its full potential, baitfish are beginning to run out of cover. They are looking for a safe haven in shallow water, so look for the highest areas on the flats. High points such as rock piles or sand spits make ideal

a-calling. Normally, your first inkling

smashing into the bait in a feeding

sheltered areas for mullet, milkfish,

will be a noise like a shower when

frenzy. Quiet beach areas where

bones, and other baitfish. Not only

the baitfish try to escape from

the water can be churned up also

are they lovely spots to fish, but

predators as they come tearing in

provide concentrations of baitfish.

also they can be great areas to

from the deeper water. GTs often

When the tide reaches its highest

concentrate on at high tides since

will be joined by predatory species

point, the flats anglers are often

GTs will visit them for snacks. It

such as sharks, other trevallies, and

pushed back onto the beaches.

is worth staking out these spots

barracudas. They hover around on

Walking the beach edges on the

for a while and seeing what comes

the edge of the deeper water before

insides of lagoons at this stage can

138 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

be fruitful, as we are not the only

undercut by erosion, creating the

TFFM travel editor Peter McLeod

thing to be pushed onto the beach.

perfect chance to sneak up on a fish

has worked in fly fishing travel for

Bonefish, shad, and mullet will all

from above.

more than 20 years and founded

seek the safety of the beach, so

fly fishing specialists Aardvark

don’t be surprised if gangsters come

RIPS AND SEAMS

McLeod International in 2005.

hustling down the length of sand

Continuing the logic of finding

He has visited more than 60

after them. I have seen GTs hunting

the prey and therefore finding the

fishing locations in 20 countries.

in packs, literally chasing mullet

quarry, rips or areas of crossing

His fascination with the trevally

up onto the beach in an effort

currents also make ideal hunting

species is bordering on the

to eat them and nearly beaching

grounds. You may find these

obsessive, and he is constantly

themselves in doing so. All that is

on the ocean sides of flats or

scouring the globe for that next

left is blood in the water and a swirl,

on outcroppings near channels,

mind-blowing hotspot to target

as the GTs depart with their meal.

where currents are pushing in two

these gangsters of the flats. His

different directions and meet.

book, GT: A Fly Fisher’s Guide to

These rips make holding stationary

Giant Trevally, extensively covers

extremely difficult for smaller fish

the species.

CORAL ISLANDS AND OVERHANGS At high tide, GTs will forage right up

species, and as a result of the cross-

against islands that were previously

current action, the bottom is often

inaccessible to them. Baitfish will

churned up, making visibility poor.

take shelter in those areas, and

Yet another perfect opportunity for

there is always the opportunity for

the mugger of the flats to pounce

a terrestrial such as a juicy crab or

on unsuspecting prey. Colored

even a bird. By clambering over the

water also makes for good hunting

tops of the coral islands, sometimes

grounds, so any area where there

you will find GTs patrolling along the

is sandy water on a flat that has

undercut coral, or if there is fast

been churned is worth throwing a

current, even taking up stations like

fly into. Be curious, and you will be

salmon in a stream. Cosmoledo in

rewarded.

particular exhibits these areas, and Farquhar to a lesser degree, where the sharp fossilized coral has been

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 139

Salt Marsh Secrets

by Joseph Albanese

Marshes act as nurseries for many

them to hatch in droves. It is this

species of gamefish and prey alike.

smorgasbord of bite-sized offerings

Some of the best fishing on the

Everything from Atlantic menhaden

that draws predators out of the

Striper Coast takes place in the

to weakfish begin their life cycles

relative safety of deeper water.

skinny waters of the salt marsh.

among the flora that comprise these

These labyrinths of unassuming

grasslands. It is this vegetation

This habitat can provide some of

meadows and sinuous creeks hide an

that allows these atolls to exist,

the best angling you are likely to

environment of never-ending decay

their roots binding the soil against

encounter in the Northeast, but

and genesis. As the water recedes,

the corrosive action of wind and

there are some stars that need

you can catch the telltale odor of

tide. Invertebrates can be found in

to align for that to happen. As

expired life. But further examination

abundance as well; from the mollusks

the water is shallower, everything

reveals the beginnings of existence

so familiar at local markets and

is magnified. The importance of

springing forth from that odiferous

restaurants to benthic worms that

several factors is exaggerated: the

muck.

provide an all-you-can-eat buffet

tidal stage, position and intensity

for stripers when the moon urges

of the sun, and even the color and

140 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

composition of the bottom. Typically,

I have found the magic number

gamefish floating in along with them.

cordgrass is found in the low-lying

to be 64 degrees. The fishing has

Fortunately, bluefish don’t mind

areas and salt hay in the high marsh,

broken wide open when the water

these warmer temps, and can keep

providing cover for the young-of-the-

temperature hits that number,

rods doubled over when the stripers

year to grow. The exposed grasses

according to my logs. It seems to be

are on a heat-induced hiatus.

offer overhead cover from terns,

just warm enough to stimulate their

gulls, and wading birds. The emergent

metabolism, but not warm enough

Light is also important. In the dog

stalks afford crevices in which to

to make them sluggish. The action

days of summer, the noonday sun

hide from finned predators. But this

seems to be white hot until the

is almost sure to chase predatory

protection is far from perfect, with

temperature hits 70 or so, although

fish to the sanctuary of deep water.

certain conditions conspiring to leave

you can continue to catch fish in

The early season is an entirely

these hapless creatures exposed.

the back when periods of high tide

different animal, though, as water

When this happens, the combination

coincide with dawn and dusk. There

temperatures haven’t reached their

of bait and predators leads to a

are usually a few days a month

seasonal peaks. Referring back to

feeding frenzy of epic proportions.

that can be productive even in the

the magnifying effect of the shallow

When these variables all line up,

warmest months. You want to take

early-season waters, temperature

there is lights-out fishing for hungry

advantage of the tail of the flood tide

can change as much as 10 degrees

migratory striped bass.

in the height of summer; those ocean

in a day, depending on the timing of

currents bring in cooler water with

the colder ocean waters rushing in.

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 141

And no matter the month, nighttime

and can be the first hotbed of activity

off without shifting out of gear and

is the right time. Gamefish, and

in the early season. This knowledge

drift into place, as the clunking of

stripers especially, take advantage of

can be used to the angler’s advantage

your boat’s transmission is a proven

the light-gathering potential of their

when prospecting for areas of ideal

way to scare fish. If you have a

larger eyes and feed nocturnally.

temperature. Early in the spring,

trolling motor or push pole, this is

This feeding occurs at all phases of

before the turbidity caused by boat

definitely the time to use it. Likewise,

the moon, but I have had the best

propellers and the algae blooms of

wading anglers will also benefit from

luck on the new and full. The new

summer, visibility and therefore light

a healthy dose of creep. While you

moon always seems to outperform

penetration is good. Noting these

don’t need the same surreptitious

the full, even though both have an

areas is important, as early in the

approach that is required by wary

equal effect on tidal heights. I can

season a few yards can mean all the

trout in chalk streams, you will

only hypothesize that the darkness

difference.

benefit from some sneak, trying not

afforded by the absence of the moon

to crush shells underfoot or dislodge

makes predators more reliant on

In stark contrast to the deeper

clumps of dirt. Just be careful, as the

other senses and they strike more

waters of the Atlantic proper, most

mud seems bottomless in spots.

often as a result.

salt marshes are shallow, averaging 4 to 6 feet on all but the steepest of

Tide stage is of the utmost

Earlier I mentioned the substrate—

tides. As such, stealth is key. You may

importance. Someone once said

that wasn’t for effect. As oyster and

be able to get away with a blaring

there are two good times to go

other mollusk shells decompose, they

radio in 90 feet of water, but that

fishing: when it’s raining and when

turn into a fine, dark sediment that

has no place in the marsh. Even the

it’s not. This is true to a degree; you

combines with the existing bottom.

simple act of dropping something on

can’t catch them on the couch, and

This creates a dark mud that absorbs

deck can be enough to put the fish

you have to make the most of your

light energy more effectively than a

down. Your approach should be as

opportunities. But to put up big

sand bottom, or even a lighter-colored

cautious as possible, coming off plane

numbers in the marsh, you need to

mud bottom. These areas will heat

well in advance of the area you plan

time the tide almost perfectly. I have

up faster than the surrounding earth,

to fish. If possible, turn your motor

found that under most circumstances,

142 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

While most of these fish will be in

sinking intermediate will work. I

the 22- to 32-inch class, there are

used to bother with tapered leaders,

opportunities to tangle with some

but no longer. I run 6 to 10 feet of

truly outsized bruisers in single-

15-pound fluorocarbon. If the fish are

digit depths. You should match your

finicky, I’ll tie my own leader with a

tackle to the size of the fish you’ll

6-foot butt of 15-pound and a 3-foot

likely encounter, with a little extra

tippet of 8 or 10 pounds.

backbone in case you do battle with a heavyweight. While you’re not dealing

As far as flies go, I prefer topwater

with rocks or bridge abutments,

stuff. Nothing is more exciting than

there are plenty of structures for fish

watching a 30-inch fish smash a

to break you off on: old pilings, pieces

hunk of feathers being pulled across

of scuttled vessels, and any number

the surface. The Gartside Gurgler

of manmade objects conspiring to

is a fantastic choice, as it moves

break your line. A 9- or 10-weight will

a ton of water and is very easy to

serve you well, as they can punch

cast. Hard-body poppers are a close

bulky poppers into a headwind and

second, with deer-hair divers also in

the best time to fish the salt

have enough oomph if you do happen

the mix. I don’t often use subsurface

meadows is an hour before the peak

to find yourself connected to a larger

flies, but I will throw a crab pattern

of high, staying until you run out of

specimen. This is an instance where

every now and then. These are

water. The exception to this rule is

you will want a reel with a solid drag.

particularly useful dead-drifted in the

a moon tide, when the water rises

I used a Pflueger Medalist for years,

earliest part of the season, as the

far enough above the grass that the

applying pressure to the spool to stop

naturals are lethargically emerging

stripers are no longer confined by

extended runs, but the abundance

from the mud and other bait types

the channel edges and can fan out

of sealed-drag reels on the market

haven’t arrived yet. Clousers and

on top of usually dry grass in pursuit

negates the need for such practices.

Deceivers are also good choices, but

of baitfish. This is not to say you

As the water is shallow here, a

I only resort to them when I know

won’t pick up a fish here and there,

floating line is best, but a slow-

fish are around but I can’t coax them

you just won’t connect like you will

to the surface. Toss Clousers when

when the high marsh starts to drain,

thin-profile baits such as sand eels

concentrating food sources in the deeper channels as the creeks empty.

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 143

and spearing are present, turning to Deceivers when wider species such as menhaden dominate the forage base.

As far as retrieves go, I always start gently. If finesse doesn’t produce, I’ll ratchet it up a bit, creating louder pops. Don’t be afraid to cast to the same spot a few times; sometimes you can get an aggravated strike from a fish that may not like your fly.

The shoulder seasons of the spring and the fall are ideal for cashing in on some explosive fishing in these exciting expanses of water interspersed with grassy shoals. Most of the pleasure boaters haven’t put their boats in yet, or have already taken them out, so you’ll have some solitude. There may be some additional challenges posed by the shallow depths, but the rewards are made just that much sweeter. Sixty fish tides are well within the realm of possibility with a little bit of planning and forethought. Take care to note the conditions, and make your fishing plans accordingly. You may have to use a sick day; time and tide wait for no man, as the old truism notes. If you can line up all of these variables, you can take part in some of the best fishing you’ll likely experience—or at least some of the most exciting.

144 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 145

a guide’s life

by Scott Hamilton

the best chance for success. But

hold fish. There was very little in

since this request was made on the

the way of such material, but we

“Time is a beast, devouring all, insatiable. . . .”

morning of the trip, during a time

continued our search.

was somewhat doubtful, I resigned

Finally, we saw a beautiful log,

That pretty much sums up a

myself to trying my best to pull

several meters long, covered in

captain’s life, but I wouldn’t

off this unlikely feat. After a quick

barnacles and surrounded by

trade my guiding experiences for

glance at his equipment, my client’s

weeds—the very picture of perfect

anything. You never know what’s

10-weight rod and reel combo

dolphin habitat. Quietly approaching

going to happen on any given

looked up to the task. In retrospect,

and scanning the area for

day out on the water; each day

a closer exam would have been wise,

movement, I saw nothing. My heart

truly is unique. Below are a few

and you’ll see why.

sank, because if this beautiful piece

of year when finding a large dolphin

of real estate wasn’t holding fish, it

entertaining nuggets from my decades on the water. Enjoy.

Chum bait was nonexistent that

was unlikely anything else would be.

day, so besides throwing hookless

IF IT CAN GO WRONG. . . .

teasers on a spinning rod, my

I readied the client, explaining that

I had a client who expressed a desire

only option was to cruise around

he needed to be prepared to cast

to catch a dolphin (aka mahi-mahi

searching for floating weeds and

at a moment’s notice as I started

and dorado), preferably a large one,

try to find fish hiding under them.

working the area around the log

on a fly. Normally, when a client

We made our way out several miles

with a teaser plug. Teaser plugs are

makes such a request, I counsel him

offshore and started the search for

great in place of chum bait. The fish

as to what time of year would offer

the debris and weeds that often

immediately comes in hot and ready

146 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

sections apart. The whole mess—

to eat, and it can generate some

dolphin crushed the fly at about

spectacular strikes. But alas, no fish

25 mph, felt the hook, and hit the

appeared after a couple casts. I took

afterburners, leaving straight away

a few steps over to the console to

at what seemed like 50 mph.

For several seconds, in utter silence,

would tell me that there were fish

As the client was desperately trying

visible as the dolphin towed it out

holding down deep. My client asked

to clear the slack, a perfect half-

if he could take a few casts. Not

hitch was formed around the reel,

expecting it to do any good, I told

with no chance of untangling it.

him to have at it and continued to

When the full weight and speed

scan the depth finder.

of the dolphin came to bear, the

look at the depth finder, hoping it

reel broke off from the reel foot, That’s when several things

and still tangled, came up against

happened in quick succession. The

the first stripping guide. In a

client dropped a cast about 50 feet

split second, that stripping guide

out and immediately exclaimed,

was ripped off the rod, and the

“Holy crap!” Out of the corner

reel came up against the second

of my eye, I saw a large shape

stripping guide with the same

streak out from directly under the

result. Now, the reel came up

boat, heading straight for the fly.

against the first snake guide on the

Faster than it can be told, what I

top section of the two-piece rod and

estimated to be at least a 50-pound

the forces at play pulled the two

reel, tangle, and ripped-off stripping guides, went sailing into the ocean. the compilation of gear was plainly of sight, jumping enthusiastically as it went.

The client, standing there holding just the butt section of his ruined rod, turned to me and said, “That was GREAT!” Given that I had never experienced any kind of equipment malfunction close to this, I had to investigate the cause. Upon closer examination, the screws that had been holding the reel body to the reel foot were so corroded that I could turn them to powder between my fingers. And

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 147

judging from the rusted stumps

Life commercial with a full-body

where the stripping guides once

vertical launch; it breached not

were, this rod may have never been

100 feet off the side of the boat.

rinsed off after saltwater exposure.

The spray from its splash almost

The client confirmed this, saying he

reached us; it was that close.

thought rinsing was a waste of time.

He also confirmed that he had been

“Okay, that is not a spinner shark,

using a straight piece of 50-pound

and we’re not fishing for it.”

leader material, because he “didn’t want to chance losing any fish.”

Gray whales are not common in my area at all. I may see only one each

YOU NEVER KNOW WHAT YOU’LL SEE OUT THERE.

year, so this was a real treat. The massive creature put on quite a

One winter I took two clients out

needed to bring the sharks within

show for us for more than an hour,

for spinner sharks. These clients

casting range. As I had my head

breaching regularly and performing

were experienced saltwater anglers

down, both of these gentlemen

a maneuver I still can’t really explain

but had never fished for spinners.

abruptly exclaimed, “Good god! Did

the purpose of. In 30 feet of water,

After setting off, I gave them

you see that?! What the hell was

this thing would go vertical, stick

the rundown on what to expect.

that?”

its nose in the sand, get its tail

Among other things, I described

about 10 feet in the air, and go back

the free-jumping that the spinners

“What did it look like?” I asked,

and forth, slapping the water with

do on a regular, and at times

without raising my head.

concussive sounds. It would stay in

constant, basis. In the 60- to

this position for a full five minutes

100-pound range, they explode out

“Something huge just came flying

before moving on. I believe it was

of the water, spinning lengthwise.

out of the water right there!”

calling out to its brethren off in the

Sometimes they spin so fast that

distance, but we didn’t see other

it’s hard to focus on them. It’s a

“Well, that’s a spinner shark,” I

whales that day. Eventually, we let

pretty large animal and pretty

replied, slightly chuckling. “That’s

the whale go on its way, and we

spectacular to watch.

what we are here to fish for.” I

returned to the sharks. But the rest

turned my head in the direction

of the day we all had grins on our

Arriving at the area where I knew

they were pointing just in time to

faces from the experience.

there to be sharks, I got busy down

see a gray whale approximately 40

on the deck preparing the chum

feet in length reenact the Pacific

148 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

YOU ARE ALWAYS AT THE MERCY OF THE SEA.

should have been the disappearance of all the large sportfishing boats.

One summer day, the weather was

Suddenly, there was not another

fairly typical—hot, calm, and humid,

boat in sight, and off to the west

with small pop-up showers in the

was a black wall of rain with an

area. These small storms were easily

almost constant rumbling of thunder

visible and moving very slowly. It

emitting from it. We were only a

wasn’t a problem getting out of

couple of miles from the beach and

their way, and there was almost no

short run back to the safety of the

lightning accompanying them. The

harbor, but it was too late. The initial

problem was that these storms hid a

blast of wind preceding the rain

monster that was fast approaching

dropped the air temperature by 20

from the southwest.

degrees. If you ever experience this

This was before smart phones, and

sort of instantaneous temperature

I had no radar on board. My first

change, just know that it’s the

clue that something was amiss

weather gods coming for you.

I resisted asking him to tell my wife that I loved her, because that wouldn’t really help any of us.

Especially my wife—or my client.

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 149

To the west, the whitecaps and

and the bow pointed into the wind.

and filling the boat, compounding

sea foam generated by the wind

Under any normal situation like this,

the capsizing possibility. My only

looked like a carpet of snow that

standard operating procedure is bow

option was to spin around and ride

was marching toward us. As

into the waves and hold position

it down wind, which was quite a

the storm came off the beach

until the storm passes, because it’s

maneuver given I had only a matter

2 miles away, the black wall of

really pointless to do anything else.

of seconds to turn before the next

rain completely obliterated the

But as the wind approached and

wave was on me.

coastline, and the lightning went

passed the 70 mph mark, SOP went

into overdrive, with multiple bolts

out the window.

visible simultaneously. The rain

I managed to get it done, but it was dicey at best. Keep in mind that

and the wind hit us almost at the

Even being just 2 miles from the

the rain was coming down so hard

same moment, with a force that

beach (a very short distance for

that the other end of the boat was

made capsizing a real possibility,

waves to build to any size), the sea

barely visible, and bolts of lightning

even with a 26-foot boat weighing

went from almost flat to a constant

were coming down on both sides

several tons.

battalion of breaking monsters

simultaneously. And these were the

bearing down on us. The 12-foot

kind of bolts where the flash and the

We had secured everything loose

hillsides were so close together

sound hit you at the same moment.

and donned our raingear, and I

that being head-to quickly became

quickly had the engines started

dangerous, with waves breaking into

150 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

By this time, exactly eight minutes

had passed since first becoming

hear thunder approaching off to the

asking him to tell my wife that I

aware of the impending doom—not

west. It felt like a lifetime.

loved her, because that wouldn’t

much time to do a lot about it.

really help any of us. Especially my In the middle of all this, my phone

wife—or my client.

We stayed in this position for

rang. A captain friend who I had

a while. I’m not sure how long,

seen earlier in the day was on the

We rode out the storm and made

because every second required

other end. “You’re not still out

it safely back to port, but it was

steering adjustments to keep from

there, are you?” he asked.

an experience I would prefer not

going broadside to the maelstrom,

to experience again, although it is

and going broadside would have

“Yes,” I said, “and I’m a bit busy.

worth noting two things: First, I

been instant disaster. Even going

What do you want?”

was never so glad to be operating a

with the waves, large amounts

catamaran, which handled it all in

of water were crashing over the

“You need to get out of there,” he

stride, and second, my client, who

stern into the cockpit. You know by

said. “There’s a tornado in that cell!”

was great at keeping mostly calm,

listening to the thunder how long

I explained to him the situation

offered the opinion that after 16

this will go on. When you hear that

with the waves, lightning, rain, and

years in the US Navy, it was the

the majority of the thunder has

inability to maneuver, and that I

worst storm he had ever been in.

passed, the worst is over. Forty-five

couldn’t really give a crap about

minutes into this storm I could still

the tornado and hung up. I resisted

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 151

to scatter chum, I tried to be the early warning if a larger fish, inappropriate for the rods they were using, showed up. I pretty much

Standing on the gunwale to get better visibility while continuing to scatter chum, I tried to be the early warning if a larger fish, inappropriate for the rods they were using, showed up.

failed miserably in the attempt, because there was suddenly a flash of brilliant purple, and Chris found himself with a fish blistering line off the 5-weight reel. The first run took enough line off the reel that the bare spool was visible beneath the backing. And though every subsequent run was shorter, they weren’t shorter by much.

Over the course of almost 30 minutes, the fish made eight runs well into the 150-yard-plus zone, and it never gave up until Chris finally battled it back to the boat to be netted. It turned out to be a skipjack tuna approaching 12 pounds. The fight was epic and a joy to watch.

YOU CAN GO LIGHT, BUT BE CAREFUL.

One day while out on a fun trip

When I first started guiding

with friends, I came across a nice-

ITS NOT ALL ABOUT THE FISH.

sized log with lots of life around

One day, several miles offshore

it. Triggerfish, small jacks called

with clients, I was searching a weed

rudderfish, and bait were just a cloud

line for dolphin. This particular

around this thing. I had a livewell

weed line was very uniform—nice

stuffed with small chum baits, and I

fresh Sargasso weed, bright yellow,

started scattering them around the

stretching off into the distance,

log, looking to fire up any predators

with very little of anything else

in the area. Quickly, surface strikes

mixed in with it. While scanning

and explosions began, signaling

weed lines like this, I look both in

the arrival of small blackfin and

the water next to the boat (because

skipjack tuna. Scanning the breaking

if you’re moving slowly and quietly

fish, most all looked to be on the

enough, dolphin will swim right

small side, only a couple of pounds

up to the boat), and I look ahead

apiece. Try as I might, I could not

along the weed line in the distance

see anything larger, so I grabbed a

(because surface activity is a very

4-weight and a 5-weight and gave

good way of locating not only

them to my buddies Quintin and

dolphin, but many other desirable

Chris.

species as well).

Standing on the gunwale to get

While scanning out in front, I

better visibility while continuing

spotted something that stood out

bluewater fly fishing in the early 1990s, I thought there wasn’t much realistic use for fly rods smaller than 8-weights. In pretty short order, I changed that thinking completely. Now I typically carry rods as small as a 4-weights, and I am in the process of building a 3-weight.

While there are days when the big fish I’d like to show clients are absent, it’s rare indeed that smaller fish aren’t available. Small members of the jack family and small tunas and mackerel are great fun on light tackle and have saved many a day for me. Dolphin up to 10 pounds will make a 4- or 5-weight dance and make you forget all about trout.

152 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

like a sore thumb. It was brick red,

It probably washed out to sea

inlet. I stopped to clean the dolphin

with wide black vertical stripes.

during a storm in the tropics

we had caught, spraying Iggy down

And then it started moving. Out of

somewhere. A healthy iguana this

with freshwater while I did. This

this patch of weeds materialized

size would normally weigh upwards

made him perk up quite a bit, and

an iguana about 5 feet long—just

of 50 pounds. I doubt Iggy weighed

for the ride back to the boat ramp,

floating along like it was the most

25. The tip of his tail had been

he took up a position on the tip

normal thing in the world.

bitten off, his eyes were mostly

of the bow. This brought quite a

swelled shut from salt water, and

few incredulous stares from other

After a quick discussion with my

he wasn’t moving particularly fast

boaters and a line of people fishing

passengers, we decided he really

at all.

off of a bridge we passed under.

not in the middle of the ocean with

He spent the rest of the day with

I tied up at the dock, and after a

nothing to eat. So I grabbed my

us fishing, but he laid claim to the

few minutes, Iggy slowly made his

large landing net and scooped him

front of the cockpit, using his tail

way onto the dock and moved away

up, depositing him in the front of

quite effectively like a bullwhip

into some nearby underbrush. He

the boat. It became obvious that

anytime someone came too close. I

most definitely had a look of “thank

Iggy (well, of course we named him)

had two impressive welts on my leg

you” in his eyes as he made his way

had been out there a long time.

by the time we came back in the

into the brush.

would prefer to be on dry land and

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 153

THE U DERTOW N

a i c n e r e u Q

by Aaron Wood With each mile the jungle lost any

through, I recalled copious warnings

between guttural growls and high-

of “Keep an eye out for the massive

frequency babble. He carries two

crocs.”

fishing rods in one hand, and a knife suited for cutting limes in

defining trait, forcing me to track progress by the degradation of

My heart was beating faster now,

the other. He is either deranged or

the road. Ruts turned to potholes,

my mind manifesting visions of my

hallucinating, maybe both. I hope

potholes to craters. Southward bound,

fly rods scattered among pieces of

he finds some limes soon, before he

I steered my way around them,

clothing, flesh hanging from the

hurts himself.

braking only for fleeing iguanas; some

mangroves like Christmas ornaments.

green, some speckled, fleeing all the

I pulled out my sad excuse for a

I was sprinting down the path with an

same. They disappeared into the

pocket knife and wielded it in my left

upturned knife, ignoring the simple

impenetrable wall of jungle on either

hand, preparing for battle.

truth that I was far more likely to impale myself than to be consumed

side of the road, and the quiet part of I began jogging. Soon I was running

by a crocodile. No matter—I persisted,

as fast as I could, following the path

weaving my rod tips around and

The bridge meant I had arrived at

with two rods in one hand and a knife

beneath foliage, stomping up and

my destination—a structure stripped

in the other. The grunts came first,

down when stalled like a jogger held

of all niceties and upkeep, solely

then shouting—uncontrollable sounds

at a crosswalk. In just a few short

committed to function. A rusted sign

of Neanderthal and howler monkey

days, my guide would beach his

read “No pescar desde el puente,”

intermixed with shrieks and snarls.

panga at the same location for lunch,

me wondered if I should follow suit.

mosey into the mangroves barefoot,

and behind it a boy peered over the bridge’s edge into the incoming tide.

I stomped as I ran, sending

and take as much time as needed to

He searched the water for shadows

reverberations along the path to

relieve his bowels.

among splashing needlefish, a hand

announce the arrival of a large and

line dangling from his grasp. He did

scary beanpole of a man. I’m not to

And then, water at my shoes. Soft

not acknowledge me, only checked

be messed with, motherfucker. Do.

sand. A patch of sargassum and

his line, bobbing it up and down as if

Not. Try. Me.

a color palette of broken plastics trapped in its tendrils. Before me the

steeping a bag of tea.

From The Jungle’s perspective: A

Caribbean Sea pushed and pulled onto

I searched for the path that would

deranged gringo, rubber-bootie shod

an expansive flat; blue topaz in the

lead me to the beach. Peering into a

and stinking of bug spray, is dance-

light, soft jade in the shadows cast

minuscule clearing among the road

running down a path frequented by

by what few clouds hung skyward.

brush, an inkling of a trail vanished

locals. He screams to himself in some

All sense of dread, of adrenaline-

into mangroves. Scraping my way

primordial language, alternating

fueled anxiety, was swept up and

154 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE

away, carried into the channel that

a stranglehold on the beaches of the

summer sun demanding payment in

intersected the beach, back toward

Yucatan and beyond, washing up in

sweat equity and exhaustion. The tide

the bridge, and into the lagoon

massive amounts and stretching so

was at its highest point, and a school

behind me. The system allowed for

far one must wonder if it originates

of bar jacks circled the flat. A pair of

copious bonefish, snook, and jacks to

at the skyline. Along the hotel fronts

frigate birds drifted above me as if

enter and exit the lagoon as needed,

and touristy beaches of the Yucatan,

suspended by the sky, their puppet

providing the adventurous angler with

young men in blue jeans and long-

master having stepped away, leaving

ample opportunity.

sleeve shirts pitch the seaweed into

them to dangle.

wheelbarrows by the ton, hauling it I tied a Mantis Shrimp onto my

off the beach from sunup till sunset,

While the bustling town I had left

8-weight, a minnow onto my 10. As

stopping only for lunch, arriving back

offered ample opportunity for fun

I went to put on my sunglasses, I

each morning to find every square

and culture, I couldn’t help but feel

realized none were to be found. I did

inch of the beach filled again. I find

that, alone on this beach, guarded by

my best to swallow my frustration,

relaxing in a chair in the shadow

crocodiles and alive with predatory

acknowledging that eagerness is

of such brutal workmanship to be

fish, I was exactly where I needed to

perhaps the greatest enemy of the

impossible, so I opt for places where

be. Like the feeling of the first days

angler. It leads to tailing loops, weak

the playing field is level. In this

of a first love, when space and time

knots, and forgotten sunglasses.

instance, the sargassum was winning.

warp and grant the briefest moment

Before I had time to feel bad for

to revel in a sense of purpose so

myself, a trio of bonefish were so

Close to abandoning my search for

whole and fragile the lover must cup

close to me I could have prodded

the snook that patrol the shallows,

it in his palms, sip at its essence,

them with my rod tip. I splashed the

the distinct lateral line of a 10-pound

and savor its delight before it slips

fly in front of them and the lead fish

fish stuck out in the otherwise rust-

through his fingers. Isolation, such a

ate, turned, and broke off the fly.

colored section of sloshing water, just

rare commodity, such a tantalizing

15 feet away. Putting the fly in front

prospect; it gnaws at my innards

I walked up and down the flat, finding

of the fish should have been easy, so

when away, drives me to despair when

ample bonefish in singles and large,

I promptly overshot the cast and laid

gone too long.

nervous schools. They were all eager

my fly line atop its head. Before I was

to eat a fly, giving me little chance

able to verbalize my own self-loathing,

Without water, I assembled my gear,

to choose the larger specimens. I

the snook moved out of the shallows

trudged up the beach and back to

moved on to where the waves began

and into deeper water.

the mangroves. I stood at their edge,

to crest and roll onto the beach,

fondling the knife in my pocket,

pitching heaps of dreaded sargassum

I returned to the flat and chugged

wondering if, somehow, I could

onto the shoreline. The seaweed has

the remainder of my water, a late

muster some composure.

TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 155

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