CELEBRATING 9 YEARS AS THE VOICE OF SALTWATER FLY FISHING
FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
PATH OF THE PERMIT REDFISH APPOINTMENT FLY CASTING BY CHICO JEWEL OF THE CAROLINA COAST THE OTHER BACKCOUNTRY LITERARY FOOTSTEPS El PALOMETERO
56 NOV/DEC 2021
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021 DISPLAY UNTIL DECEMBER 31
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Some bachelor parties turn out better than others. TFFM designers Scott Morrison and son, John, made a summer trek to the Yucatan in lieu of a traditional bachelor party before John’s September nuptial. The approaching outer bands of a hurricane can be seen on this page, but the storm didn’t spoil the fishing, as John’s permit and tarpon on the following pages show. The trip also included two additional permit, multiple tarpon, and a slam. John’s new wife, Maddie, is practising her casting for the next trip. Here’s to the happy couple! Photos by Scott Morrison
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 3
Photo by Scott Morrison
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Photo by Scott Morrison
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Photo by Scott Morrison
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the next generation
T&T Ambassadors Jose and Parker Ucan spending time together in their home waters of the Yucatan Peninsula. Legendary guide Jose is patiently imparting his love of fishing to 8 year old son Parker who at such a young age has already landed a Permit on Fly. Handing down our knowledge and passion for the outdoors to the next generation is key to the survival and growth of flyfishing. At T&T we see a world of possibilities out there and believe the next generation should too.
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TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 11
— from the editor AS WE SAY farewell to 2021, we’re bullish on 2022. This is our last issue of the year, and here’s hoping next year will be better than the last. Nearly 20 months ago, who knew we would still be navigating a world of precautions and restrictions caused by an unusually efficient virus? THERE’S MUCH TO LAMENT, but also much for which to be thankful, including the growth of hunter and angler numbers over the past two years and robust growth in the outdoors industry. HUNTING AND FISHING license sales and participation have been trending downward for decades, leading to a loss of conservation funding for state fish and wildlife agencies, which rely largely on license sales to implement conservation programs and projects. But over the past two years, states across the country have experienced significant increases in license sales and participation, and most signs point to the pandemic as the likely catalyst. THIS PARTICIPATION SURGE bodes well for our sport and way of life, giving us hope and optimism for the future. As more hunters and anglers join our ranks, their license purchases feed the coffers of state fish and wildlife agencies, allowing them to do the important work of conserving and protecting the habitats that support the species we pursue. THESE NEW MEMBERS of the outdoor community also need equipment, and as they gear up for outdoor pursuits, they’re also investing in conservation and our industry’s livelihood. Manufacturers of everything from fly rods to skiffs to boat motors pay federal excise taxes on the equipment they make, and these funds generated by the federal Wildlife Restoration Act and Sportfish Restoration Act are then distributed to the states as another critical source of conservation capital. The manufacturers also benefit from the increased sales, which strengthens not only our industry, but also our nation’s economy. BUT IT’S NOT JUST ABOUT finance and economics. With every new participant, we gain another conservation advocate. We’re passionate about our pursuits, and that translates to caring about the ecosystems that support fish and wildlife. There’s strength in numbers, and with every new adherent to the outdoor lifestyle, we’re building a conservation coalition that will bring attention to important issues and build consensus for needed action.
12 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
THE GROWTH of the fly fishing industry over the past two years has put thousands of new ambassadors on the water—a topic we’ll be discussing in 2022—and we’re embracing this positive development with plans for expansion. You’ll see more and richer content in these pages, and with the easing of travel restrictions, Tail Fly Fishing Magazine will be hosting more travel opportunities next year. We also have several collaborations with manufacturers in the works, resulting in some exciting new products that we’ll soon reveal. WE’RE EXCITED that so many others are finding their way to a sport that has enriched our lives. We welcome them into the fold and encourage them to join the TFFM family as we continue to give voice to our shared passion of saltwater fly fishing. IN OUR LAST ISSUE OF 2021, you’ll find themes consistent with this message of looking optimistically toward the future while respectfully recognizing the past. We welcome the venerable writer T. Edward Nickens as a new contributor. His thoughtful piece in The Undertow explores his own epiphany about hopeful perspectives on unknown horizons. Meanwhile, we also look back with respect on those who’ve preceded us; James Spica guides us, fly rod in hand, along the literary footsteps of popular New England writers, and we pay homage to SoCal fly fishing pioneer Sam Nix. Chico Fernandez provides a treatise on fly casting, Carlos Cortez schools us on not being mind-tricked by permit, and Michael Smith, another new contributor, reminds us to make time to fish. WE SINCERELY HOPE you’re making time to fish, and as we say with each issue, this one is better than the last. We hope you agree. Happy New Year!
Joseph Ballarini Editor in Chief
TM
On the Cover:
GUIDE TESTED.
Keith Buchanan captures a rare moment, the legendary El Palometero in the water admiring his recent catch. This might be the only photo in existence of the luchador legend in shallow-water action.
GUIDE TRUSTED.
Editor-In-Chief: Joseph Ballarini Managing Editor: Trey Reid Acquisitions Editor: George V. Roberts Jr. Creative Director: Scott Morrison Food Editor: Kelli Prescott Travel Editor: Peter McLeod West Coast Editor: Al Quattrocchi Consulting Editor: Chico Fernandez 56 Contributing Editors: Andy Mill, Nicky Mill Historians: Pete Barrett, Ed Mitchell Editors-at-Large: Joe Doggett, Mark B. Hatter, Tom Keer, James P. Spica Jr. Copy Editor: Leila Beasley
CELEBRATING 9 YEARS AS THE VOICE OF SALTWATER FLY FISHING
FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
PATH OF THE PERMIT REDFISH APPOINTMENT FLY CASTING BY CHICO JEWEL OF THE CAROLINA COAST THE OTHER BACKCOUNTRY LITERARY FOOTSTEPS El PALOMETERO
NOV/DEC 2021
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021 DISPLAY UNTIL DECEMBER 31
Creative Contributors: Joseph Ballarini Pete Barrett Jim Brown Keith Buchanan Carlos Cortez Paul Doughty Chico Fernandez
John Mauser John Morrison Scott Morrison T. Edward Nickens Jon Olch Kelli Prescott
Al Quattrocchi Trey Reid George V. Roberts Jr. Mike Smith Ralph Smith Studio James P. Spica Jr.
About Tail Fly Fishing Magazine is the voice of saltwater fly fishing in a bimonthly print and digital publication. We focus on delivering high-quality content, the very best photography, destination travel, reputable commentary, and technical features from the saltwater fly fishing culture. Tail Fly Fishing Magazine began as a digital publication in 2012 and debuted as a print magazine in 2016. Combined, the digital and print versions reach readers in more than 45 countries. In many places throughout the world, fly fishing has become important to both people and the environment. As a method of fishing imbued with values of stewardship and conservation, it connects people with the marine world in significant and positive ways. We, the anglers, are the last line of defense for our outdoor spaces. Tail Fly Fishing Magazine supports the arts and creativity, conservation, and organizations that trumpet this message. We’re grateful for your support and we welcome photographic and written contributions. TFFM is published six times annually, and your print subscription includes the digital version. Subscriptions are available through our website. International subscriptions are also available for most countries. Please contact our general mailbox, admin@tailflyfishing.com, with any advertising, subscription, or submission questions.
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TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 15
CONTENTS 20 26
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INSIDE THE BOX - Joseph Ballarini Befitting our last issue of the year, a time when we’re looking optimistically toward the future, our editor in chief stuffs a fly box with selections representing the evolution of flies designed to run true and flatten the curve on angling success. FISHING IN LITERARY FOOTSTEPS - James P. Spica Jr. From H.P. Lovecraft to Stephen King, New England’s literary figures often delve into the macabre, absurd, and horrific. James Spica examines their words through the lens of fishing and personal travels, fishing in the footsteps of famous authors and finding very real angling experiences in coastal New England’s otherworldly tableau. JEWEL OF THE CAROLINA COAST - John Mauser North Carolina’s Crystal Coast, an 85-mile stretch of coastline between the Cape Lookout National Seashore and the New River, may not be as famous as the Outer Banks, but John Mauser of Mauser Fly Fishing says there’s no place he’d rather be than in his own backyard.
Photo by Scott Morrison
16 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
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THE PATH OF THE PERMIT - Carlos Cortez The permit commands the respect and admiration of fly anglers like few other fish. But maybe we’re looking at permit fishing the wrong way. Carlos Cortez discusses the fish of his dreams, techniques for enticing them, and offers a new philosophical mindset to help you bring permit to hand. FLY TYING - Joseph Ballarini We build our angling success on past experience, and Joe Ballarini combines the best aspects of flies by our predecessors to create a hot new fly that represents the progression of flat-bodied crustaceans. We proudly introduce the Evolution Shrimp. GEAR GUIDE - TFFM Staff If you’re trying to stay in touch, stay clean, or stay away from biting insects, this issue’s selections have you covered. You’ll also find gadgets for protecting your phone and preparing food, plus reviews and reveals of fly fishing and fly tying gear, including the first offering of our own Perfectionist leaders in fluorocarbon. FLY CASTING TO FLY FISH - Chico Fernandez Contributing Editor Chico Fernandez is well known for his myriad innovations, including his many unique fly patterns that we’ve featured in the past. But Chico is also a proven fly casting instructor, and in this issue he takes us to casting school, stressing that practicing the cast should always emphasize actual fishing scenarios.
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REDFISH APPOINTMENT - Michael Smith Life gets in the way of fly fishing for all of us, but Michael Smith nudges us to make time for what’s important, and in his case, that meant making a date with marsh redfish. He even has a new Google Calendar color devoted to fishing. We like the way he’s thinking. ON THE PLATE - Kelli Prescott After a long day on the water, do you really need much more than a pile of peel ’n’ eat shrimp or a plate of tacos? These recipes are rich and tasty but also easy to execute, meaning more time to kick back and enjoy. We’re dishing up chile lime butter shrimp and the simple but profound taco, dressed with homemade jalapeño crema and fried onions.
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HOLIDAY CHEER - Trey Reid The season of holiday parties and family gatherings is upon us. Managing Editor Trey Reid helps us elevate our spirits game in this season of heightened revelry, providing a trio of festive cocktail recipes that screams holiday cheer.
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THE OTHER BACKCOUNTRY - Pete Barrett The Northeast probably isn’t the first place that comes to mind when we talk about backcountry fly fishing, but TFFM Historian Pete Barrett makes a strong case for areas from Maryland to Maine in this roadmap to the northern Atlantic coast’s abundant off-the-beaten-path opportunities.
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SAM NIX: HOMAGE TO A SAN DIEGO FLY FISHING PIONEER - Jim Brown Sam Nix was a colorful character often described by an array of conflicting adjectives—cranky, friendly, annoying, engaging. But his tinkering and do-it-yourself approach to improving the tools of fly fishing resulted in innovations that are still in use today, and his early explorations of Florida and Mexico’s Baja Peninsula paved the way for generations to come.
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THE UNDERTOW: THAT ALBACORE SEASON T. Edward Nickens Much has been written about the bond between fathers and sons, and Eddie Nickens graces us with a poignant and thoughtful contribution to the subject, reflecting on his own outlook toward the future as his son prepares to embark on life’s next chapter.
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 17
R E T A I L E R S C A R R Y T A I L
ALASKA Mossy’s Fly Shop 750 W. Diamond Blvd, Suite 114 Anchorage, AK 99515 907-770-2666 mossysflyshop.com CALIFORNIA Bob Marriott’s Fly Fishing Store 2700 W. Orangethorpe Ave Fullerton, CA 92833 714-525-1827 bobmarriottsflyfishingstore. com
The Angling Company 333 Simonton St Key West, FL 33040 305-292-6306 anglingcompany.com The Tide 26 Grouper Hole Drive Boca Grande, FL 33921 941-964-2417 GEORGIA
COLORADO
ORVIS Atlanta Buckhead Square 3255 Peachtree Rd NE Atlanta, GA 30305 404-841-0093 Orvis.com
Front Range Anglers 2344 Pearl Street Boulder, CO 80302 303-494-1375 frontrangeanglers.com
The Fish Hawk 764 Miami Cir NE #126 Atlanta, GA 30305 404-237-3473 thefishhawk.com
CONNECTICUT
LOUISIANA
The Compleat Angler 541 Boston Post Road Darien, CT 06820 203-655-9400 compleatangleronline.com
Marsh & Bayou Outfitters 2600 Florida St Suite 3 Mandeville, LA 70448 985-869-7335 marshandbayououtfitters.com
FLORIDA
ORVIS Baton Rouge Perkins Rowe, Bldg. H 7601 Bluebonnet Blvd., Ste. 140 Baton Rouge LA 70810 225-757-7286 Orvis.com
239 Flies 3431 Bonita Beach Rd SW Unit #205 Bonita Springs, FL 34134 (239) 908-3513 239flies.com
MARYLAND
Florida Keys Outfitters 81219 Overseas Highway Islamorada, FL 33036 305-664-5432 floridakeysoutfitters.com
Alltackle 2062 Somerville Rd Annapolis, MD 21401 888-810-7283 alltackle.com
Mangrove Outfitters 4111 Tamiami Trail E Naples, FL 34112 239-793-3370 mangroveoutfitters.com
MASSACHUSETTS
Ole Florida Fly Shop 6353 N. Federal Hwy Boca Raton, FL 33487 561-995-1929 olefloridaflyshop.com
The Bear’s Den 34 Robert W. Boyden Rd Taunton, MA 02780 508-977-0700 bearsden.com Kismet Outfitters 204 UPPER MAIN STREET Edgartown, MA 02539 860-944-5225 kismetoutfitters.com
RHODE ISLAND
UTAH
The Saltwater Edge 1037 Aquidneck Ave Middletown, RI 02842 866-793-6733 saltwateredge.com
Fishwest 47 West 10600 South Sandy, UT 84070 fishwest.com 801-617-1225
SOUTH CAROLINA
WASHINGTON
Bay Street Outfitters 825 Bay Street Beaufort, SC 29902 843-524-5250 baystreetoutfitters.com
Peninsula Outfitters 19740 7th Ave NE, Suite 110 Poulsbo, WA 98370 360-394-1599 peninsulaoutfitters.com
ORVIS Charleston 535 King St. Charleston, SC 29403 (854) 999-4985 Orvis.com
The Avid Angler 17171 Bothell Way NE #A272 Lake Forest Park, WA 98155 206-362-4030 avidangler.com
Southern Drawl Outfitters 1533 Fording Island Rd Hilton Head Island, SC 29926 843-705-6010 southerndrawloutfitters.com
WYOMING
TEXAS Bayou City Angler 3641 Westheimer Rd Suite A Houston, TX 77027 832-831-3104 bayoucityangler.com Gordy & Sons Outfitters 22 Waugh Drive Houston, TX 77007 713-333-3474 gordyandsons.com ORVIS Austin 10000 Research Blvd - B04B Austin TX 78759 512-795-8004 Orvis.com ORVIS Houston 5727 Westheimer - Suite A Houston TX 77057 713-783-2111 Orvis.com ORVIS Plano Preston Towne Crossing 2412 Preston Road Suite 200 Plano, TX 75093 972-596-7529 Orvis.com
Lander Fly Shop 305 Main Street Lander, WY 82520 307-438-3439 landerflyshop.com Retail Chains: Barnes & Noble—630 retail locations in the USA Books-A-Million—260 stores in 32 states Bass Pro Shops—95 locations in the USA Dick’s Sporting Goods (select locations)—over 700 stores in the USA Field & Stream Stores—35 locations in the USA Indigo Books—over 200 stores under various banners BAHAMAS Blackfly Lodge Schooner Bay Abaco, Bahamas 904-997-2220 blackflylodge.com CANADA
ORVIS San Antonio 7427 San Pedro Ave. Suite 104 San Antonio, TX 78216 210-812-3017 Orvis.com
Drift Outfitters & Fly Shop 199 Queen St. East Toronto Ontario M5A-1S2 647-347-7370 Driftoutfitters.com
NEW YORK
Sportsman’s Finest 12434 Bee Cave Road Austin, TX 78738 512-263-1888 sportsmansfinest.com
Fish Tales Fly Shop Ltd. #626, 12100 Macleod Trail SE Calgary AB T2J 7G9 Canada 866-640-1273 fishtalesflyshop.com
ORVIS Sandestin 625 Grand Boulevard Ste 101 Sandestin, FL 32550 850-650-2174 Orvis.com
River Bay Outfitters 980 Church St Baldwin, NY 11510 516-415-7748 riverbayoutfitters.com
Swan Point Landing 1723 Cherry Street Suite 4 Rockport, TX 78382 361-729-7926 swanpointlandingflyshop.net
Seven Mile Fly Shop 1638 Overseas Highway Marathon, FL 33050 (305) 440-3406 sevenmileflyshop.com
NORTH CAROLINA
Tailwaters Fly Fishing Co. 1933 E. Levee St Dallas, TX 75207 888-824-5420 tailwatersflyfishing.com
Orlando Outfitters 2814 Corrine Dr Orlando, FL 32803 407-896-8220 orlandooutfitters.com ORVIS Ocean Reef 1 Fishing Village Drive Key Largo FL 33037 305-367-2227 Orvis.com
18 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
MONTANA Frontier Anglers 680 N. Montana St Dillion, MT 59725 406-683-5276 frontieranglers.com
OBX on the Fly 107 Sir Walter Raleigh St Manteo, NC 27954 obxonthefly.com
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 19
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FLATTEN by Joseph Ballarini
the Curve
Spear Bonefish Fly
Back in the early 1970s, Harry Spear
His Mother of Epoxy was among the
the Spear body was used on the
was working full time as a guide and
earliest of the epoxy flies (along with
Kwan, which is used to entice redfish,
likely was completely unaware of
the Ultra Shrimp and Surf Candy,
while the Baird body was modified
the influence his subtle observations
which appeared around the same
into a spoon, a staple for Gulf redfish
would have on saltwater fly fishing.
time). It had a flat head and no body,
from Texas to Florida.
so it’s also considered a flat-bodied fly. Harry is the creator of two flies that
The flat body of the Spear bonefish
have influenced tying methods and fly
The reason for the flat head was to
fly in the Florida Keys would be the
patterns for more than 50 years. The
ensure that the fly would not spin
template for Del Brown’s Merkin and
Spear bonefish fly was the first flats
when stripped. This concept was also
countless other crab patterns like the
pattern to utilize a flat body. It was a
recognized by tiers outside of Florida.
the Raghead Crab, the EP Three Tone
simple fly with a marabou tail and a
Terry Baird used it for his Hula
Crab, the Kung Fu Crab, and more.
series of body segments tied in a row
Shrimp and Hula Crab patterns, and
to make a wide, flat body. It marked
his design became the basis for the
Gary Merriman used Spear’s flat body
the first time that this type of fly was
spoon fly and other lure-like flies. In
to create the Tarpon Toad, the fly
seen in salt water.
the marshes of the Gulf Coast states,
that gave Andy Mill his five Gold Cup
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 21
EP Crab
Merkin
M.O.E.
wins and sealed his place in the fly
tying feature, I’ve used this flat body
Baird’s Hula Shrimp that are used for
fishing record books.
concept for my Evolution shrimp,
tuna and other offshore species.
which is a combination of the highly
When tying or buying, consider the
The Branham epoxy fly is a derivative
successful Peterson’s spawning
fly’s motion; it remains the only thing
of the M.O.E, and most recently,
shrimp pattern and the M.O.E
between you and a successful hookup
Skok’s Merkin Shrimp is also anchored
(Branham version).
in that two-second window to entice
on the same original Spear body.
the bite. When I’m tying something Our featured box is a collection
for the flats, something I’d actually
There must be something to this
of flats flies that can be used for
throw during those opportune
concept if it keeps showing up in
bonefish, permit, or redfish just
moments, what runs through my
variations for over half a century.
about anywhere. Variations in
head is, “How can I flatten it?”
If anglers keep breaking records,
color and size would extend these
winning tournaments, and just
patterns, allowing for usage in
It’s a good place to start when
having great success with them,
California (Cronin’s Surfin’ Merkin,
planning new flies.
they will continue to influence future
for example), Hawaii, and the South
patterns. As you will read in the fly
Pacific. There are larger variations of
Branham Fly
22 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
Hula Shrimp
Hula Crab
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Fishing in Literary Footsteps by James P. Spica Jr.
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Out the window [of the bus to Innsmouth] I could see the blue water and the sandy line of Plum Island, and we presently drew very near the beach as our narrow road veered off from the main highway to Rowley and Ipswich…. Now and then we crossed crude wooden bridges over tidal creeks that wound far inland and promoted the general isolation of the region. At last we lost sight of Plum Island and saw the vast expanse of the open Atlantic on our left. Our narrow course began to climb steeply, and I felt a singular sense of disquiet in looking at the lonely crest ahead where the rutted roadway met the sky. It was as if the bus were about to keep on in its ascent, leaving the sane earth altogether and merging with the unknown arcana of upper air and cryptical sky. The smell of the sea took on ominous implications…. Then we reached the crest and beheld the outspread valley beyond, where the Manuxet [River] joins the sea just north of the long line of cliffs that culminate in Kingsport Head and veer off toward Cape Ann. On the far, misty horizon I could just make out the dizzy profile of the Head, topped by the queer ancient house of which so many legends are told….
Fishing for stripers in the fading light
River, and Wingaersheek Beach
Traveling and fishing in the footsteps
on Plum Island or driving between
on Ipswich Bay directly north of
of authors who frequented familiar
fishing spots around Ipswich and
Gloucester. Innsmouth might also be
areas of the country is a tangible
Essex became far more eerie and
around Great Neck to the northeast
connection between two of my
unquestionably more exciting when
or Manchester-by-the-Sea to the
obsessions: fishing all the hell over
I first read that passage from a
south. H.P. Lovecraft was detailed
the place by road, and the collection
horror novella called The Shadow
in his description but also cleverly
and consumption of books. In my
Over Innsmouth. I’ve driven those
circumspect.
native state of Michigan, we’ve got
roads. I know those vistas. I’ve felt
the Hemingway connection, a bit
that otherworldly miasma of marshy
“There was never a dearth of fish
of John Gierach, and, in the Upper
decay and coastal mystery.
around Innsmouth,” writes Lovecraft
Peninsula, John Voelker (you may
early in the novella. And later: “And
know him as Robert Traver) and
The town of Innsmouth doesn’t
far out at sea, despite a high tide, I
Jim Harrison. As place plays such a
really exist—nevertheless, its creator,
glimpsed a long, black line scarcely
vital part in literature, Hemingway’s
Howard Phillips Lovecraft, knew the
rising above the water yet carrying a
and Voelker’s voices and plots echo
area intimately. He clearly fastened
suggestion of odd latent malignancy.
the spirit of the Midwest: plain
upon and accentuated in writing
This, I knew, must be Devil Reef.”
and straightforward, humble and
the combination of old, legendary
Occasionally, when I’m casting into the
fascinating, homey and gritty.
things of human construction and
surf from Crane Beach and enjoying
the mysterious, slightly unnerving
that glut of fish, I think I can make
By contrast, New England’s canonical
element of tidal marsh and
out to the southeast the dark, thin
literary figures dabble—or dive
weatherbeaten coast. The area
line of Devil Reef. I assume it’s just
headfirst—into the macabre,
described as harboring the decaying
wishful dreaming, but one could make
influenced by centuries of layered
and disquieting town of Innsmouth
the argument that that’s one of the
culture, buried dead, and the
is most likely somewhere in the area
many benefits of reading fiction.
omniscient, uncaring, life-giving
between Crane Beach, the Annisquam
and life-taking nature of the ocean.
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 27
The Northeast has its pantheon of
towns, one sees the “clustered spires,
writers in the macabre, absurd, or
domes, and gambrel roofs” Lovecraft
horrific—and in many well-known
mentions in almost every story he’s
Headed south beyond the congestion
authors, all three.
written, whether he’s describing the
of Boston, traveling on Route 3 into
very real towns of old Providence and
a landscape given over to scrubby
Boston or the very fictional towns of
sea pines, grasses, and smaller rock
Driving through sleepy New England
28 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
Arkham and Dunwich.
eminences, I cross the Bourne Bridge
One of Gorey’s best-known books is
Continuing down the Cape, fishing
onto Cape Cod. As many another
The Gashlycrumb Tinies, an alphabet
Cape Cod Bay, and then spending
striper angler, depending on the tide
book of verse ascribing one letter
some time at busy but productive
stage, I usually direct the Tacoma
each to a child who dies in a grisly,
Race Point, I make my way into
toward the Brewster Flats. But not
if silly, way. Upon reading it for the
Provincetown for oysters and martinis
before a quick stop.
first time, I was delighted to discover
at Pepé’s Wharf, passing by the
that “J is for James who took lye by
privately owned and well-preserved
The Edward Gorey House in Yarmouth
mistake.” Not only was my own name
house that used to belong to Norman
is a kind of tame pilgrimage for me
chosen, but Gorey’s James died by
Mailer. Mailer lived in this P-town red
whenever I’m fishing the flats of
ingesting something he shouldn’t
brick house with, if the photos are any
Cape Cod Bay. Lovingly kept up and
have, which is almost certainly how
indication, a library that prompts both
open as a museum, complete with
I’ll go, knowing my perverse desire
jealousy and inspiration. He wrote
the occasional daily tour, it isn’t a
to eat and drink odd or disgusting
of the town through the eyes of the
large dwelling—so an eight-person
things. That said, “M is for Maud who
protagonist and narrator in Tough
tour feels very much like when the
was swept out to sea” is just as likely
Guys Don’t Dance:
host of a house party crams you
to be my fate; I’m known to linger too
and your friends into one room after
long on the flats waiting for a striper
another while you’re wishing for a
in front of which to drop a crab fly, as
refresh of your drink. That said, one
the water works in behind me in its
can wander at one’s leisure most
own creepy way.
of the time, taking in the distinctly Cape Cod vibe of the living quarters
Upon catching a bluefish, which
while simultaneously marveling
eyes me angrily and with malignant
at the extent of Gorey’s macabre
intent—Lou Tabory mentions the
weirdness. I love the kitchen—what a
bluefish’s unpleasant gift of strong
surprise—and imagine Gorey cooking
sight out of water—the couplet
some bluefish in the oven or making
from Gorey’s The Wuggly Ump runs
some oyster stew on the stove. It’s
repeatedly through my head:
a place of hero worship to pass the midday hours when the linesiders are relatively uninterested in eating. Then I return to the water with a tinge of the “jumblies” (Gorey’s
What nasty little willful eyes For anything of such a size! How uninviting are its claws! How even more so are its jaws!
partnership with Edward Lear in verse, wherein the benefits of sailing the sea in a sieve are extolled).
Yep, that’s a bluefish.
Perhaps this is why Provincetown is so beautiful. Conceived at night (for one would swear it was created in the course of one dark storm) its sand flats still glistened in the dawn with the moist primeval innocence of land exposing itself to the sun for the first time. Decade after decade, artists came to paint the light of Provincetown, and comparisons were made to the lagoons of Venice and the marshes of Holland, but then the summer ended and most of the painters left, and the long dingy undergarment of the gray New England winter, gray as the spirit of my mood, came
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 29
Terror can lurk on every hand; it brings me closer to the environment and indeed extracts a perverse chill from it.
down to visit. One remembered then that the land was only ten thousand years old, and one’s ghosts had no roots. I don’t know if Mailer dabbled in
beautiful spot, but the mist that
confronted with forbidden things,” as
obscures the vistas and moves in and
Lovecraft puts it. What New England
out but never really leaves could very
lacks in the mystery of frontierism
well harbor Stephen King’s tentacle
it makes up for in older mystery: the
monsters and things with claws that
shabby, crumbling layers of history
could easily scuttle up behind me.
and overgrowth that hide, but do not completely obscure, older things.
flats fishing, but he nailed, in one sharp paragraph of forgivably
Idolizing these literary giants comes
These are not the giant tides and
long sentences, what it is to drive
with some all-too-visible issues,
crisp cliffs of the West Coast; this is
around the Cape fishing the flats for
some pretty big shoggoths (look it
the mud of centuries exposing what’s
stripers. One imagines the winner
up) under the table—for example,
left of this ship, that dory, this shack,
of two Pulitzer Prizes had more
Lovecraft’s distinctly New England
that dock.
heady things to do than wander the
subspecies of casual racism common
beaches looking for the shadow of a
in the early 20th century, or perhaps
The pop culture of contemporary
submerged ghost, but I suppose all
Mailer’s staggering ego. Hemingway,
humanity is riddled with mummies:
great writers are looking for ghosts
another great writer and fisherman,
the dead preserved so well that they
of some kind.
unfortunately laid the groundwork
may not be quite dead but obscured
for a narrow view of masculinity and
by enough layers of cloth that one
Speaking of ghosts, no macabre
how that masculinity is associated
really cannot know for sure what’s
literary fishing pilgrimage would be
with the outdoors. So we cannot read
within and what power animates it
complete without some mention of
these works without a critical eye
(though when it hops up and starts
that master of contemporary horror
toward the writing and the writer.
terrifying Abbott and Costello, the
and resident of Maine, Stephen King.
But our sport of fishing has its own
uncertainty fades). So much is
King injects the New England terroir
contradictions, hypocrisies, and
mummified in New England. In an
directly into his writings: descriptions
troublesome flirtations with high
obvious way, cramped graveyards
of haunts, happenings, and frights
morals, so we ought to be able to
around many a corner in Boston or
that could only be the stuff of the
understand.
Salem are full of the interred of at least 300 years, sometimes more. But
Northeast. While King’s catalog is too expansive to even attempt to
It’s New England’s whole vibe that
every bit of decaying wood—posts,
cover here, I was recently met with
prompts such a deep sense of place
palates and prams—in tidal marshes
the close presence of eeriness so
in the literary figures whose writing
is mummified by sand.
intimately relied upon in one of his
is tinged with, dipped in, or downright
shorter works. I was driving around
submerged in darkness. Terror
Waiting by a boulder that draws in
Acadia National Park in the early
can lurk on every hand; it brings
stripers, one observes the barnacles
morning, fishing off the cliffs for
me closer to the environment and
crusting the eminence and wonders if
pollock on sparkle Clousers with a
indeed extracts a perverse chill from
there may just be a few symbols left
6-weight—a quiet and contemplative
it. When that mist is rolling in—or
by the Old Ones, before shambling,
pursuit contrasted with the violence
those emerging rocks form dubious
primitive man. There are too many
and unforgivingness of the swells
shapes in the dark, lit only by diffuse
layers of barnacles to really be
hitting the rock faces. Acadia is a
moonlight as the tide drops—I “feel
certain.
30 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
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TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 31
Jewel of the Carolina Coast by John Mauser The forked foot of my push pole
winds have changed to a northerly
the last few hours creeping across
finds purchase in the mud as we
breeze, and the humidity that you
the Spartina flats, looking for copper
glide across an acre of flooded
could cut with a knife has vanished
tails waving amongst the reeds.
Spartina grass. Like a field of wheat,
overnight. You can feel it in the air:
We’ve seen a dozen tails and poled
the grass is fading from bright
It’s fall on the Crystal Coast, my
within casting range of a few. I’m
green to golden yellow. Patches of
favorite time of year here.
not surprised to see fewer tails today
sea pickle are turning a vibrant red
compared to the last round of tailing
along the shoreline, while yellow
My buddy Perry and I have hit the
tides; the redfish have their minds on
sulphur butterflies dance above the
lottery today: We both have the day
something other than fiddler crabs.
water’s surface. The hot southerly
off from guiding, and we’re finally
Many of the reds have started to
able to chase some fish with a fly rod instead of a push pole. We’ve spent
32 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
school in the deeper channels and
At this point my mind is also on
Fifteen minutes later we are peering
pursue the large schools of baitfish
something other than the flooded
through the inlet and out into the
marching from the marsh toward
flat: I’m thinking of the chaos that
Atlantic. Gulls and terns are diving
the inlet. The mullet can feel the call
could possibly be occurring a couple
a few hundred yards ahead, feeding
of the changing winds and cooling
of miles away as hordes of baitfish
on schools of tiny anchovies that are
temperatures—it’s time to migrate.
pour out of the inlet on the falling
spending as much time above the
And the redfish know it’s time to
tide. Perry reels in his line and stows
water’s surface as they are below.
forgo the crabs and take advantage
the fly rod as I pole to the nearest
Seconds later, we see what has them
of the schools of baitfish so they can
creek. I lower the trim tabs and push
in a frenzy: Several dozen chrome
put on weight for the winter.
the throttle all the way forward as we
torpedoes emerge from the depths
head off looking for a new adventure.
and blow the baitfish out of the
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 33
water. Perry is immediately in the
Cape Lookout, Shackleford Banks, and
the islands, the sand-covered creek
fly box, digging through Clousers and
Bogue Banks may not be as well-
bottoms flow with clear water as
epoxy minnows looking for a close
known as the islands to the north,
the tide pours in from nearby inlets.
match. I can’t help but grin because
but I personally don’t think there’s
Further inland, the waters become
I know we are only a few casts away
another stretch of coastline that
stained with tannins, and the bottom
from welcoming back my favorite
can hold a candle to our charming
transitions from sand to the type of
fall visitor: the false albacore. I’ve
historic towns, pristine beaches, and
mud that will steal your shoes and
been fortunate enough to travel to
wild state and national parks.
keep them forever. Along the grass
some amazing fishing destinations,
edges, oysters build shell-covered
but right now there’s nowhere I’d
Just behind the windswept dunes
points that can extend for a hundred
rather be than right here in my own
and maritime forests of the barrier
yards or more.
backyard.
islands is a vast marsh and a maze of creeks and bays that would take half
All this habitat makes a home for
North Carolina’s Crystal Coast is an
a lifetime to explore. Miles of vibrant
many species of crabs, shrimp, and
85-mile stretch just south of its more
green Spartina grass are divided by
baitfish. And where there’s prey,
famous sibling, the Outer Banks.
a labyrinth of salty creeks. Behind
there are predators. Redfish, speckled
34 TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE
trout, and flounder are without a doubt the top targets of inshore anglers along the Crystal Coast. Whereas most anglers pursue them with conventional methods along the docks and creek channels, I prefer to stalk them away from the hustle and bustle of bay boats and popping corks, where the water is ankle deep and fish present themselves for a fly cast. While fishing the backcountry, you can often hear the ocean; waves crash just a short distance away, separated from the marsh by a line of cedars and live oaks. The emerald waters just beyond those crashing waves are just as much a playground for the fly angler as the marsh. Beach houses and sunbathers may adorn the shoreline from Emerald Isle to Atlantic Beach, but the part of the Crystal Coast that I love is still wild and untamed. The Cape Lookout National Seashore—consisting of South Core Banks and Shackleford Banks—and Hammocks Beach State Park are protected from human development. There are so many elements to the Crystal Coast that only add to the amazing fishing experience. Wild horses roam the shores of Shackleford Banks, their home since they swam from sinking Spanish ships in the 1600s. The historic Cape Lookout Lighthouse, erected in the 1850s, has served as backdrop to many an epic battle of man versus fish. And without even knowing it, many anglers have drifted over the remains of the most famous pirate ship in history, sunk off Beaufort Inlet by Blackbeard himself in 1718. Fall just might be the best time to pursue both backcountry and nearshore species on the fly. The
TAIL FLY FISHING MAGAZINE 35