You’re Cordially Invited
By Joe Tetro
BBQ is a beloved pastime on the Gulf Coast, and for good reason. It’s a time to gather with friends and family, enjoy good food and drinks, and savor the great outdoors. But have you ever stopped to think about just why BBQ is so popular? Well we have, and let me tell you, the reasons are both delicious and heartwarming.
First off, BBQ is a celebration of meat, plain and simple. Southerners love their meat, whether it’s burgers, hot dogs, or brisket and ribs BBQ takes this love to a whole new level. It’s a time to break out the tongs and the sauce and show your carnivorous prowess. In fact, we are so in love with meat that the average American consumes over 200 pounds (ca. 91 kg) of it each year.
In this month's issue of TableScape we discuss the history of BBQ, speak with an award- winning pitmaster and share some tasty recipes.
So crack open a cold one and dig in because as Julia Child one said, “people that love to eat are always the best people“.
J.Tetro
Barbecue
A Tale As Old As Time
By Allison Marlow
A Google search of the phrase, history of barbecue, does not disappoint.
The images. Oh, the images. Creatures of all sorts – lizards, fish, mammals – laid out upon a skewer made of branches, poles, and even bayonets. Each image represents the passage of another century as the gathered crowd salivating around the fire is represented by every civilization since the Vikings landed upon North America’s shores.
In one image, the entire body of a creature is larger than the collected crowd. Their noses are crumpled in agony as they push and heave to turn the spit it rests on. And yet in another, barbecue is served in a still shot from the 90s film, Fried Green Tomatoes. Ahem. If you know that movie, you might not be in the mood for barbecue anymore.
Barbecue has been around a long time. But, before we can discuss history, sauces and the continuing argument over whose is best, first we must all agree on what it is, and isn’t. Barbecue, according to Smithsonian magazine, is the culinary tradition of cooking meat low and slow over an indirect flame. No grilling allowed. There are four distinct barbecue traditions in the U.S., according to the magazine: Carolina, Texas, Memphis, and Kansas City (MO).
The history of barbecue is long and complicated. The chefs who first crafted the prized sauces and recipes are hailed in their communities as local legends. There is much to say about barbecue. But here, we’ll just help you understand the differences in regional recipes. You can dig in, literally, to the tastes and spices of each with every bite of barbecue you take. We’ll just help get you there.
The first written reference to barbecue was by members of Christopher Columbus’ crew. You know they sailed the ocean blue in 1492, and in addition to discovering the new world, they also stumbled into a new style of cooking which the Spanish referred to as barbacoa – when indigenous tribes cooked meet over an indirect flame using green wood.
The pig was raised to barbecue status as the animal of choice just before and during the Civil War when Southern families ate 5 pounds (2.27 kg) of pork for every one pound of cattle.
Barbecue was now a thing. And as the nation grew and matured, so did the individual flavors and spices of its regions.
First, North Carolina. This state’s vinegar-based sauces are a leftover from British settlers here who had a taste for the tart. Their southern neighbor, in South Carolina, was home to French and German immigrants who brought a mustard-based sauce with them to the New World.
In Memphis, situated squarely on the Mississippi River, barbecue connoisseurs here also had access to something new: a wider range in trade of goods from the port on the Mississippi. This included molasses which they added to their sauce making the Memphis concoction sweeter than the rest.
Smithsonian magazine credits a Memphis-born chef for opening the first barbecue restaurant in Kansas City (MO), where the last distinctive American barbecue style was born.
While the recipe stuck with the sweet and spicy taste Memphis was known for, the Kansas City (MO) style incorporated beef and other meats into the mix.
Barbecue experts have called the Kansas City (MO) style the perfect mix of the East and West styles of barbecue.
Burnt Ends
INGREDIENTS
1 cup brown sugar
1 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup salt
1/3 cup chili powder
1/4 cup paprika
6 tablespoons black pepper
3 tablespoons ground cumin
3 tablespoons garlic powder
3 tablespoons onion powder
1 tablespoon cayenne pepper
1 (10-12 pound) beef brisket, whole, packer, and trim
Burnt Ends
DIRECTIONS
Step 1 -Sift the brown sugar, granulated sugar, salt, chili powder, paprika, black pepper, cumin, garlic powder, onion powder, and cayenne pepper into a bowl and mix.
Step 2 -Trim all the hard and soft fat from the beef brisket.
Step 3 -Prepare the smoker according to the manufacturer's recommendations, stabilizing the temperature to 220 degrees F.
Step 4 - Smoke the meat to an internal temperature of 170-185 degrees F, about 1 hour per pound.
Step 6 -Separate the meat from the fat.
Step 7 -Trim any visible fat.
Step 8 -Coat the brisket in the leftover rub.
Step 9 -Place the brisket back on the smoker to cook until 200 degrees F.
Step 10 -Remove the brisket from the smoker and let it cool.
Step 11 -Cut and serve
Sauce Is The Boss
By Zach Wilson
Imagine this.
You walk into a BBQ restaurant and sit down. If it’s your local place, you notice all the random pictures of NASCAR drivers, rock bands, and/or pigs hung up in every corner of the room. There’s probably some form of blues, country, or classic rock music playing. Or at least that describes most in Alabama.
You’re battling between the chicken plate to be “healthy” (with all that barbecue sauce?) or what you actually want (the brisket plate)… or is that just me?
Now, you ’ ve ordered, and you ’ re about to get your plate of tender brisket and the waitress informs you of something devastating.
“I’m sorry, ” she says, “ we are out of barbecue sauce. ”
Out of sauce? A barbecue restaurant that’s out of sauce? That’s like eating french fries without salt or a salad without dressing. It’s just not the same!
Barbecue sauce is arguably a cuisine in and of itself. Throughout this article, we ’ re going to explore its long history, multiple variations, and why you should branch out and try as many as you can!
(Oh, and there’s a recipe template at the end of the article. You’re welcome.)
BBQ Through the Centuries
I was actually surprised to find out that flavoring barbecued meat was mentioned centuries ago. The first recorded recipe from the 17th century was simple: lime juice and pepper. This was thought to originate from a Dominican Missionary who saw the method done by people in the West French Indies.
While barbecued meat dates back centuries, the widespread use of barbecue sauce had a very gradual rise in the 17th and 18th centuries by people who loved the idea and wanted to improve upon it. These sauce pioneers took the simple recipe and started making it more original, adding ingredients like vinegar, mustard, salt, and pepper.
A commercial blow-up came early in the 20th century. The Georgia Barbecue Sauce Company was the first to commercially sell the sauce in 1909. It was a massive success as we can see today.
Getting Territorial
Talk to anyone who is serious about their barbecue, and they will tell you which sauce they believe to be the “best”. There are a few cities/states who have styles they have claimed as their own. Some examples include Kansas City (MO) style known for its smoky sweetness, Memphis style which is a tangy tomato dipping sauce, or even Alabama has a style that is enjoyed across the nation. Do you know what it is? Let’s check out all the varieties!
Basic BBQ
Vinegar and pepper. That’s it. This combination, which has been used for hundreds of years, hails from North and South Carolina.
Mustard Mix BBQ
You could probably guess the mustard mix originated from Germans settlers. During the mid-18th century, this sauce was crafted and widely used among the German community and is still used today!
The folks from North Carolina who created this sauce added a dash of ketchup to the basic sauce. What this does is it adds a thicker and more tangy texture – hence the name.
Most likely due to its extra sweet flavor, the heavy tomato is the most popular style of barbecue sauce in the world. The flavor and thick texture comes from a heavier amount of tomato sauce added to vinegar and pepper.
Tangy Tomato BBQ
Heavy Tomato BBQ
Alabama White Sauce
Our very own “Alabama White Sauce” is famously paired with barbecue chicken and is enjoyed in restaurants all over the country. The secret to this sauce is that instead of using ketchup, it has a mayonnaise base, which makes it rich and sweet in flavor.
Just For Fun
Here’s a fun idea for you and your partner, or you can bring along some friends! Go out to different barbecue restaurants and experiment with all the different sauces. Usually, they will have a few to try, varying from sweet, mild, and spicy. The best part is that each one is unique to that specific restaurant. Another bonus is that this can give you great inspiration for home-crafted sauces!
Conclusion
Whatever your taste is, there's a sauce for you. Whether that’s a Carolina Gold sauce, or a Texas Style, there’s more than enough to go adventure and try out. Or, you could even try making your own at home! If you want to try it out, I’ll leave you with a bonus recipe template. (Even though this isn’t a recipe section, I think I can get away with it.)
Add whatever you want to this base to make your own unique sauce.
Tomato base + sweet + salty + spicy + smoky + acid
Experiment, try it out with your partner, kids, or invite your friends over for Barbecue. I think you’ll be happy with what you can come up with.
Homemade BBQ Sauce
INGREDIENTS
⅔ cup ketchup
½ cup cider vinegar
¼ cup brown sugar
2 teaspoons pimentón (smoked Spanish paprika)
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper
DIRECTIONS
Combine all ingredients in a small saucepan, bring to a simmer over medium heat and cook for 5 minutes.
Elotes (Mexican Street Corn)
INGREDIENTS
Canola oil, for grill grates
1/4 c. mayonnaise
1/4 c. sour cream
1 small clove garlic, pressed
1 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
1/2 tsp. chili powder
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
8 ears fresh corn, husks removed
1/3 c. finely crumbled Cotija cheese
Chili-lime seasoning (such as Tajin) and chopped fresh cilantro, for garnish
DIRECTIONS
Heat grill to medium. Once hot, clean and oil grill grates. Stir together mayonnaise, sour cream, garlic, lime juice, and chili powder in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper.
Grill corn, turning frequently, until lightly charred, 5 to 7 minutes.
Brush with mayonnaise. mixture and sprinkle with cheese, dividing evenly. Garnish with chililime seasoning and cilantro.
Book Nook
withPamelaBrown
MattHorn-AMasterOfBarbecue
The path to Matt Horn’s career came from his response to a life-changing question he asked himself years ago – if you could eat something every day, what would it be? His answer – barbecue. Since that day, Horn, author of Horn Barbecue: Recipes and Techniques from a Master of the Art of BBQ, developed his own flavors and style, defining his methodology of barbecue as a melding of Louisiana, Oklahoma, and Texas traditions.
As Horn writes in his book, “My barbecue journey began in my grandma’s backyard and was driven forward by my own desire to teach myself how to make the best barbecue.” Since then, he charted a successful course in the world of barbecue, becoming a rising barbecue chef in California and opened Horn Barbecue in Oakland that was recently awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand designation. In 2021, Food & Wine named Horn one of the “10 Best New Chefs in America.” Horn developed his barbecue skills and techniques on extended stays with his grandparents in Oklahoma where he learned their secret BBQ recipes and the basics of the German-inflected Texas-style BBQ. He also built his own smokers from discarded oil barrels and abandoned propane tanks. As his interest in barbecue grew, he studied with the Texas legend Robert Patillo, of Patillo’s BBQ in Beaumont.
Horn describes his cooking as “West Coast Barbecue,” adding his own California-style spin by working in vegetables and fruits and featuring poultry and seafood, non-traditional barbecue proteins. In his book he writes it was essential to “ express the roots of his people –the smoking style of central Texas heavily influenced by the flavors and dishes of the south.” HornBarbecue showcases cooked-to-perfection meats rubbed, mopped, basted, and sauced in addition to Pork Ribs, Beef Ribs, Pork Shoulder, and Burnt Ends; Matt’s family’s traditional recipe for Smoked Oxtails; Hot Links, Jalapeno-Cheddar links, and Texas-style Beef Brisket, and more. He includes Horn Brisket, his signature recipe that he perfected to get it to its “juicy goodness.” Also, you’ll find easy-to-make sides, such as Smoked Pit Beans, Classic Corn Bread, Hoe Cakes, and Watermelon Salad. “Sides are often considered to be an afterthought . . . not when it comes to barbecue. The sides I grew up with are the product of years, if not decades, of care and attention,” writes Horn.
A chapter highlights crowd-pleasers such as Banana Pudding, Georgia Peach Cobbler, Pineapple Upside-Down Cake, and Red Velvet Cake. The user-friendly book features mouthwatering full-color photographs and provides detailed information for backyard cooks on smoking basis such as how to turn your existing grill into a smoker, best woods for smoking, barbecue tools, best types and cuts of meat for smoking, and how to prepare the meat. Horn offers a helpful definition of the “Stall,” a plateau of heat when the temperature stops rising. A valuable section is Horn’s Top tips for the best barbecue.
Sharing his story, Horn is proud to keep the history of the Black pitmaster alive. During those days at his grandmother’s backyard, he “learned the art of solitude, being one with the smoke and fire” and today, the “art, craft, and process of barbecue are an obsession to him.” Barbecue enthusiasts who are using a backyard smoker (or who want to smoke on a standard grill) and also veterans will find helpful ideas in Horn Barbecue that will become their guide to cooking low and slow over smoky, smoldering woods.
Excerpted from Horn Barbecue by Matt Horn published by Harvard Common Press. Copyright 2022.
Horn Brisket
SERVES 10
INGREDIENTS
1 (12- to 14-pound) whole packer brisket
5 Tablespoons coarse black pepper
2 Tablespoons coarse kosher salt
2 Tablespoons onion powder
Mustard or olive oil, for the meat
INSTRUCTIONS
1. Preheat the smoker to 265-degrees F. I use oak for this cook, but you can use any type of hardwood.
2. Place the brisket on a work surface so the fatty side is underneath. Trim away any silver skin or excess fat from the brisket and flip the brisket over, fat side facing up. Ideally, you want to keep about ¼-inch layer of fat all over the brisket to act as a protective barrier during the long cook.
3. In a small bowl, stir together the pepper, salt, and onion powder. Rub the brisket with mustard ort olive oil and apply the seasoning evenly over all sides of the brisket.
4. Place the brisket in the smoker with the point side (thicker side) facing the fire box. Close the lid and don’t open it for 6 to 8 hours, or until the internal temperature reaches 165-degrees F.
5. Spread unwaxed butcher’s paper on your work surface, remove the brisket from the smoker, and place it in the middle of the paper. Wrap the brisket until it is completely covered and fold the paper over twice, with the brisket ending right-side up (the side with the fat cap). Place the wrapped brisket back in the smoker, right-side up, and do not remove it until the brisket reaches an internal temperature of 203-degree F. The time to achieve this temperature will vary. Pay attention to the feel of the wrapped brisket. As it begins to soften, begin probing the brisket to get an idea of where the temperature is.
6. Let the wrapped brisket rest, wrapped, for one hour before unwrapping to slice and serve.
Excerpted from Horn Barbecue by Matt Horn published by Harvard Common Press. Copyright 2022.
Perfect Iced Coffee
INGREDIENTS
1 lb.
ground coffee (good, rich roast)
8 qt.
cold water
Half-and-half (healthy splash per serving)
Sweetened condensed milk (2 to 3 tbsp. per serving)
Skim milk, 2% milk, whole milk, sugar, artificial sweeteners, syrups (optional)
DIRECTIONS
1.
Mix the ground coffee with the water in a large container. Cover and allow to sit at room temperature for at least 12 hours or up to 24 hours.
2. Place the coffee liquid in the fridge and allow to cool. Use as needed.
Line a fine mesh strainer with cheesecloth and set over a pitcher or other container. Pour the coffee/water mixture through the strainer, allowing all the liquid to run through. Discard the grounds.
3.
4.
To make iced coffee, pack a glass full of ice cubes. Fill the glass 2/3 full with coffee liquid. Add a healthy splash of half-and-half. Add 2 to 3 tablespoons of sweetened condensed milk (you can use plain sugar instead) and stir to combine. Taste and adjust half-and-half and/or sweetened condensed milk as needed.
3 5 0 W I T H R Y A N M I T C H E L L
By Pamela Brown
Ryan Mitchell and barbecue are synonymous. He’s an internationallyknown pitmaster who has cooked around the world. Along with his father, Ed, known as the “most famous” pitmaster in North Carolina, they developed a line of BBQ sauces, rubs, and hot sauce made with zero processed sugar using natural sugar from fruit and vegetables by True Made Foods and collaborated on Ed Mitchell’s Barbeque, a cookbook that pays homage to the rich culture of barbecue and to the black rural southerners who shaped American cooking. Ryan took some time to share excellent tips for anyone looking to step up their BBQ skills.
PB: Best piece of advice for a home cook when it comes to barbecuing?
RM: Practice the craft of indirect grilling. It allows you the opportunity to learn the relationship between fire and different types of protein. Learning temperature control is essential to barbecue.
PB: What was your worst failure and your best success?
RM: My worst failure was burning up 20 slabs of ribs for a major catering trying to master the hot and fast method alone. I was 17 in the smokehouse, solo, and about two hours late for work. My best success was the completion of Ed Mitchell’s Barbeque! By far the most enjoyable experience we shared as a family.
PB: Most essential barbecue tools for a home cook?
RM: My vote would be a trusty chimney charcoal starter and a pair of commercial grade tongs. Most at home grilling is for smaller cuts of meat. Natural heat and strong tongs are very important.
PB: What are the best and easiest foods and cuts to barbecue?
RM: The very best foods to barbecue are ribs. My preferencesare the St. Louis cuts because they give you the complete flavor profile of the rib. The easiest are hot dogs or boneless chicken breast. These are perfect for entry level grilling.
PB: Favorite spice or marinade?
RM: Any good marinade needs apple cider vinegar. We love the taste of Eastern NC BBQ sauce. Best rub is the Undefeated Legend by True Made Foods.
PB: What is the key to getting the dry rub to stick to the meat?
RM: Our secret to getting the dry to stick is removing the water moisture from the meat and then applying a light coating of organic natural mustard, then coat the meat with your rubs.
PB: Best type of grill to use and the best wood?
RM: I’m a huge fan of the Char-Griller Super Pro. It's barrel shape and commercial grade iron grates are top notch. Best wood is going to be oak wood. It has a rich flavor that enhances the natural heat of your charcoal.
My Guilty Pleasure
By Jax Petro
I’m a traditionalist but when it comes to coffee, I’m willing to get a little wild. Once the temperate begins to climb my craving for iced coffee awakens. I’m not big on top ten lists but the pros for iced coffee were so numerous I just had to go for it.
Coffee makes everything better. It can be enjoyed in the mo afternoons, and even late at night. It tastes like a treat, it gives you energy and can either cool you off or warm you up. Some people prefer their coffee hot, others prefer it iced, and occasionally, it just depends on the day. There are many reasons to love iced coffee, so let’s try this list thing.
1. It won’t burn you
Sometimes hot coffee can betray you. Hot coffee can splash out of its cup or mug and burn your hands. And burning your mouth on a cup of hot coffee can really knock the wind right out of your sail. Iced coffee will never do such a thing.
2. It’s so refreshing while hot coffee is comforting and cozy, iced coffee is so refreshing. It wakes you up quickly and effectively quenches your thirst any time of the day.
3. It’s so pretty
Iced coffee is fun, flirty, and fast. Whether you brew your own iced coffee or you order it out, an iced coffee is beautifully concocted with a burst of cream and maybe some caramel swirl or whipped cream on top.
4. Easy transportation
Iced coffee is typically served in a tall cup with a straw. These cups always fit in your car cupholders, and fit perfectly in your hand too. In addition, sipping on a straw is way easier than tilting your head back to get a sip of your coffee.
5. Iced coffee is just better
Did you know iced coffee has actually been found to be better than hot coffee? Iced coffee has less acid than hot coffee and is easier on your stomach and teeth.
6. It’s super easy
Iced coffee can be easily made with some coffee saved in the fridge, ice, and cream. There is no scooping, brewing, and waiting with iced coffee. It’s the perfect beverage for people on-the-go.
7.
It’s a dessert
Iced coffee is more like a treat than hot coffee. It can be dressed up with whipped cream, caramel, chocolate, cinnamon and so much more. Not only that, but it’s decadent and bold with flavor. Likewise, it also pairs excellently with pastries, desserts, and breakfast foods.
8. Coffee ice cubes
If you ’ re an iced coffee lover then you must know about ice cubes made of coffee. One thing iced coffee does is melt. If your ice cubes melt before you finish your coffee, then it becomes a diluted cup of coffee, and that’s no fun. Here’s the trick! Pour some coffee into an ice cube tray and freeze them. When you are ready to make your iced coffee pour your coffee, add the coffee ice cubes, some creamer and voilà, no more watered-down coffee!
9. It’s trending
Iced coffee is a TREND. It’s hotter than hot coffee right now and it’s staying that way! And if you haven’t tried cold brew coffee yet, then put it on your todo list for this week. It may change your life.
10. Iced coffee can turn a bad day around
It’s true, If you ’ re having a bad day, there’s nothing more rewarding than strolling into a coffee shop and ordering yourself an iced coffee. It’s something we have all done, and it truly works. It boosts your mood and makes you feel like you can conquer the rest of your day.
The bottom line is that coffee in all its forms, hot or cold, is a joy. But if I’m being honest, iced coffee makes me feel a little naughty. I feel like I’m getting away with something as I travel life’s highway with an ice-cold, tasty treat in hand. It says, I’m an adult and I can have dessert any time I want it. At least that’s what I tell myself.
