TableScape Magazine January 2024

JANUARY 2024

A WORD FROM THE PUBLISHER

You’re Cordially Invited

By Joe Tetro

French-Canadian explorer Pierre Le Moyne d’Iberville arrived in what is now modern-day Mobile, Alabama on Fat Tuesday, 1699. He named the location Point du Mardi Gras and threw a little party. In the years that followed, French travelers would come to the spot explicitly for Fat Tuesday celebrations. To this day, Mobile, Alabama claims to hold the oldest Mardi Gras celebrations in the country.

Taste and flavor are what make Mardi Gras cuisine such a memorable experience. From New Orleans, to Mobile, to Pensacola, Mardi Gras meals are a mainstay in many communities.

Certain dishes are classic Creole and Cajun inspired dishes, while some chefs opt for more contemporary creations. However you enjoy Mardi Gras, food is always the one element that celebrates the spirit of the holiday. Mardi Gras staple foods are as old as Mardi Gras itself.

In the January issue of TableScape, we take you on a culinary adventure that celebrates the history and flavor of the Mardi Gras season. Join columnist Amber Derr as she explores the history and recipes of a true Southern tradition…gumbo. Spend some time with Allison Marlow as she explores the history of Mardi Gras on the Gulf Coast and shares an insider’s look at baking the perfect King Cake. Or join Danielle Rose as she examines the history of everybody’s favorite chocolate-covered cookie and marshmallow sandwich, the Moon Pie, which has been around for over 100 years.

We’ve included some great recipes to boot. Whether you crave an Etouffee, a Jambalaya, or the perfect Shrimp Po’ Boy, get ready to indulge because as Julia Child once said: “People that love to eat are always the best people.” laissez les bon temps rouler

J. Tetro

Jan 2024 | www.TableScapeMag.com

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01

A Word from the Publisher

08

King Cake

13

Shrimp and Sausage Gumbo

18

Mardi Gras

27

Gumbo YaYa Recipe

30

Moon Pie

35

Seafood Gumbo

38

Gumbo YaYa

41

Red Beans and Rice

45

Book Nook with Pamela Brown

You‘re Cordially Invited

A Slice Of Pageantry

Gumbo-licious

How Did It All Begin?

A Flavor Celebration

The Darling Of The Mardi Gras An Ocean Of Flavor

A Long History Of Styles and Flavors

A Traditional Favorite

An Off The Shelf Book Review

SDG

49

Jambayala

52

350 with Ira Gallon

57

King Cake Recipe

60

Cafe Du Monde

63

Advertiser Index

A Classic 0

Executive Chef, Local and Company 3 Questions | 5 Minutes | Tasty Answers A Real Crowd Pleaser

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Publisher Graphic Design | Editor In Chief Editor Danielle Rose Writers J Anthony Allison Marlow Jax Petro Pamela Brown Amber Derr Photographers Joe Tetro Sales

Michael Steele | Sales@TableScapeMag.com Kevin Cooper | Kevin@TableScapeMag.com Jason Leggio | Jason@TableScapeMag.com

Technical Support

Nicholas Kearley

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King Cake

By Allison Marlow

It’s King Cake season.

Sure, sure. It’s technically Carnival Season — the weeks after Epiphany that lead up to Mardi Gras, the French translation of Fat Tuesday.

But it is during this decadent, delicious slice of time when King Cake rules the dessert table.

When the three wise men arrived at the feet of baby Jesus, they brought gifts. Not cake, of course, but the modern delight is named in honor of their appearance. This dessert, however, is just as regal.

Shaped like a round, centerless bundt cake, the cakes are sprung from a brioche dough. The layers between can be filled with cinnamon, chocolate, cream cheese and fruit. More savory versions replace the sweet insides with seafood or sausage.

In other parts of the nation, local bakeries are now taking a long deep breath between Christmas and Valentine’s Day. Southern crafters, however, are gearing up for what is often the busiest time of year: King Cake season.

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Renee Maradik, owner of Something Sweet Bake Shop, says Jan. 6 is the perfect timing between when New Year’s resolutions are made and when people are ready to break them for their craving of King Cake.

“As soon as we open in January, we’re making big batches pretty quick,” she says.

After a lifetime in business accounting, Maradik said she was ready to work for herself. She purchased the downtown Daphne bakery six years ago, about a decade after it was established by its original owners.

Her King Cake is what sets her apart from competitors, she says. The handcrafted confection at Something Sweet is not quite a cinnamon roll, not quite a coffee cake. It's difficult to describe it because it's not anything else, it's King Cake. And it's delicious.

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The sweet icing topping is dusted with green, purple and gold sanding sugar, the colors of faith, justice, and power repeated not just on King Cakes but on bunting, t-shirts, flags and costumes during festivities.

The plastic baby in the middle used to be a sign of good luck. In early versions during the late 1800s, it was a bean hidden in the sweet layers that gave the finder good luck.

Today, you might get good luck if that baby appears at the end of your fork, but tradition also dictates that you buy the next King Cake for the next event. Good luck, small debt, hey, it’s King Cake season!

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Maradik said every baker has their own slightly different variation of the King Cake recipe. You’ll find cakes sold everywhere, from big box stores that make the sweets off-site to family-owned bakeries like hers.

Psst. It’s also in ice cream. Try the locally crafted King Cake ice cream.

It’s delicious!

And yeah. It’s in beer. King Cake flavored beer. Sorry. We chickened out of taking a swig of that one.

Tried a piece but didn't like it? Don’t judge every cake by its brother.

Try another, each is unique, and each is another chance to have a delicious slice of a Southern tradition.

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RECIPES

Shrimp and Sausage Gumbo INGREDIENTS

1 cup all-purpose flour ¾ cup bacon drippings 1 cup coarsely chopped celery 1 large onion, coarsely chopped 1 large green bell pepper, coarsely chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 pound andouille sausage, sliced 3 quarts water 6 cubes beef bouillon 1 tablespoon white sugar salt to taste 2 tablespoons hot pepper sauce (such as Tabasco®), or to taste ½ teaspoon Cajun seasoning blend (such as Tony Chachere's®), or to taste 4 bay leaves ½ teaspoon dried thyme leaves 1 (14.5 ounce) can stewed tomatoes 1 (6 ounce) can tomato sauce 4 teaspoons file powder, divided 2 tablespoons bacon drippings 2 (10 ounce) packages frozen cut okra, thawed 2 tablespoons distilled white vinegar 1 pound lump crabmeat 3 pounds uncooked medium shrimp, peeled and deveined 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce Jan 2024 | www.TableScapeMag.com

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RECIPES

Shrimp and Sausage Gumbo DIRECTIONS Gather all ingredients.

Make the roux: Whisk together flour and 3/4 cup bacon drippings in a large, heavy saucepan over medium-low heat until smooth. Cook roux, whisking constantly, until it turns a rich mahogany brown color. This can take 20 to 30 minutes; watch heat carefully and whisk constantly or roux will burn. Remove from heat; continue whisking until mixture stops cooking.

Make the gumbo: Place celery, onion, green bell pepper, and garlic into the work bowl of a food processor, and pulse until all vegetables are very finely chopped.

Stir vegetables into the roux, and mix in sausage. Bring mixture to a simmer over medium-low heat, and cook until vegetables are tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.

Combine water and beef bouillon cubes in a large Dutch oven or soup pot and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Stir until bouillon cubes dissolve, then whisk roux mixture into the boiling water.

Reduce heat to a simmer and mix in sugar, salt, hot pepper sauce, Cajun seasoning, bay leaves, thyme, stewed tomatoes, and tomato sauce. Simmer soup over low heat for 1 hour; mix in 2 teaspoons of file gumbo powder at the 45-minute mark.

Meanwhile, melt 2 tablespoons bacon drippings in a skillet over medium heat. Add okra and vinegar and cook for 15 minutes; remove okra with a slotted spoon, and stir into the simmering gumbo.

Mix in crabmeat, shrimp, and Worcestershire sauce, and simmer until flavors have blended, 45 more minutes. Stir in 2 more teaspoons of file gumbo powder just before serving.

Serve hot and enjoy!

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Mardi Gras

By Allison Marlow

Mardi Gras is not what the tourists see on news clips far-flung from the Gulf Coast.

It’s family reunions, traditions, and preparations for religious fasting all wrapped up in delicious food, stunning decor and a $1 billion party.

“The debauchery of Mardi Gras in the French Quarter of New Orleans upsets many New Orleanians and Mobilians because Mardi Gras doesn’t have anything to do with that,” says Craig Roberts, Mobile architect and author of “Mardi Gras in Mobile,” the authoritative guide to carnival season in Alabama.

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Roberts said the debauchery and drunken revelry that takes over social media was created by bars to make money.

erts Craig Rohb or Aut

But Mardi Gras was here long before any of those bars.

Mardi Gras, in fact, can be traced back to Egyptian festivals. Their traditions were embraced by the Romans.

Roman traditions were tweaked and used by the Christian church.

As history progressed, new festivals replaced old festivals.

Eventually, all roads led to Mardi Gras.

Members of the Catholic Church created Mardi Gras as a way to “get everything out of their system before giving up for Lent,” Roberts says.

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In medieval times, families gave up fatty meats, hence the name Fat Tuesday. They didn’t necessarily have sugar and tobacco to sacrifice for the fasting period and the church was far more lenient about alcohol since water, Roberts says, would often kill them. Wine was the safer choice, so that wasn’t an option for Lent.

Years passed, explorers left Europe for the New World and Mardi Gras came with them to America when the French began settling the Gulf Coast.

Explorers settled Mobile in 1702 and the first Mardi Gras celebration in the western hemisphere was held in Mobile in 1703. The first mystic society was formed the next year.

Floats appeared in parades in 1830.

New Orleans wouldn’t be founded until 1718 and Mardi Gras festivities began soon after. Floats began appearing in their parades in New Orleans in 1858.

By 1900, the traditions built up over the years spread and Mardi Gras became more of a community festival.

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In the last 50 years, Mardi Gras has become more popular than ever, Roberts says.

New mystic societies, also known as krewes, new parades and new balls are popping up in small towns around the Gulf Coast.

Other cities in the U.S. have embraced the traditions too.

There is a parade in St. Louis, Missouri and another in Galveston, Texas that have gained a large following.

And the parades, even the smallest, make every effort to be grand spectacles of light, sparkle, and song.

Traditionally, members of the mystic societies ride atop the paper mache floats tossing beads, moon pies, and toys to the masses, making their way to a grand ball that is generally invite only.

In Mobile, there are two royal court associations. Since 1872, the kings, queens, ladies, and knights who form the royal courts have been chosen from the same two families.

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Inside these balls, the largest affairs sometimes host 6,000 guests, who are greeted first by a choreographed and costumed tableau show.

Roberts said the spectacles are awe-inspiring.

“When I first moved here and went to my first parade, I’m telling you I thought, ‘Did Walt Disney move to Mobile to do this?’ he says.

“You cannot believe how many parades there are, and they are all so spectacular,” he says.

The secret isn’t out, though. Roberts says nationally, Mobile’s Mardi Gras festivities are not well known.

It may be just as well, as you have to know someone to gain a look inside some of the most storied, historic balls.

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There, the tableau shows can be Broadway worthy, Roberts says. After, the crowd dines, dances and drinks until 2 a.m.

Some wake up late the next day and do it all over again.

In 19 days, the city of Mobile will host well over 40 parades and balls by 80 mystic society balls.

The preparation for Mardi Gras, however, lasts all year long. Nearly one in every 10 people in Mobile work in the Mardi Gras industry. They build floats, hand stitch every queen’s gown and train, craft throws and decor for the balls, and design the royal court’s scepters and crowns.

The grandeur of the season outshines any other event of the year.

“Christmas just pales here compared to Mardi Gras,” Roberts says. “It’s pretty spectacular and there really is something for everybody.”

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When:

February 23-25, 2024

Where:

The Barn Reid Loper 20451 Matthew’s Way Silverhill, AL 36576

To Register and Details:

The Men's Coaching Weekend is a unique environment for men committed to learning a relational paradigm for growth.

Throughout the weekend, men learn new relationship skills and benefit from interaction with other men.

The goal for each participant is to learn how to communicate openly and assertively, and receive constructive input that will serve as a blueprint for how he can begin to grow in all areas of his life.

Led by Philip K. Hardin, M.A., M. Div. LMFT, LPC a Licensed Marriage & Family Therapist and Certified Life Coach who specializes in couples in crisis, men's issues, and life & relationship issues. He is the Director of Business & Professional Outreach, Intl., which seeks to bring men, couples, and families into wholeness and full maturity.

Jan 2024 | www.TableScapeMag.com

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RECIPES

Gumbo YaYa INGREDIENTS

3/4 cup canola oil 2 pounds chicken wings, drumettes and flats separated, tips removed 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons Creole seasoning 1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more as needed 3 stalks celery, chopped 1 medium Spanish or white onion, chopped 1 bell pepper, chopped 5 cloves garlic, finely chopped 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper 2 bay leaves 5 sprigs fresh thyme 12 cups low-sodium chicken stock 24 ounces smoked sausage, sliced 1/4 inch thick 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 3 cups cooked white rice, for serving 1 bunch green onions (3 to 4 bulbs), sliced 1/4 inch thick, for serving 1/4 cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves, for serving

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RECIPES

Gumbo YaYa DIRECTIONS

Heat 1/2 cup of the oil an 8-quart heavy-bottomed pot over medium to medium-high heat. Coat the chicken wings with 2 tablespoons of the Creole seasoning in a large bowl. Pour 1/4 cup of the flour over the chicken and coat evenly, then slowly add additional flour as needed until all of the chicken is completely coated. Working in batches, fry the chicken wings until golden brown, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer the wings to a paper towel-lined plate and set aside.

Carefully add the remaining 1/4 cup oil to the pot and heat until smoking (there should be a thin faint white smoke coming off the oil). Whisk in the remaining 3/4 cup flour and cook, whisking continuously, over medium-high heat until it turns into a dark chocolate brown roux. If the roux is browning too quickly, remove the pot from the heat and continue whisking until the roux reaches the desired color. Turn the heat down to low and stir in the celery, onions and peppers with a wooden spoon, scraping the bottom of the pan, until the vegetables are coated with the roux, about 1 minute. Add the garlic, cayenne, bay leaves, thyme and 2 teaspoons Creole seasoning and turn up the heat to medium-high. Whisk in the chicken stock in three parts to make sure it’s fully incorporated. Add the chicken wings, sausage, Worcestershire sauce and 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon Creole seasoning. Stir to combine.

Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer, uncovered, using a ladle to skim off any foam that rises to the top, until the gumbo is slightly reduced and thickened, about 1 hour. Stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons Creole seasoning, 1 teaspoon salt and 1 teaspoon pepper.

Combine the green onions and parsley in a small bowl or on your cutting board.

To serve, ladle the gumbo over bowls of cooked white rice and garnish with the green onion and parsley mixture.

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MoonPie

The Darling of the Mardi Gras

By J. Anthony

At every parade, from every float, the most prized throw is a MoonPie “You can throw a MoonPie at a two-year-old and a fifty-year-old will try to get a hand on it,” says a Mobile city councilman. “If you run out of MoonPies, you can throw beads for a while, but people will start clamoring for MoonPies.” MoonPies missed in the air remain in play once they are on the ground. Mobilians even claim that parade MoonPies “have a different taste” than store bought pies. “These are the real deal!”. Mobile certainly means business when it comes to MoonPies.

How did this beloved Southern Tennessee snack end up at the center of Mobile Mardi Gras?

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First, a little history to bring us up to speed. MoonPies were first made in 1917 at the Chattanooga Bakery. MoonPies, were made with graham crackers, marshmallows and chocolate, and were just one of 200 products produced at the bakery, but quickly became a top-selling product. The original MoonPie was over four inches in diameter and sold for a penny.

Because it was affordable and filling, it was especially popular among the working class.

Similarly, in 1934, the Royal Crown Company of Columbus, Georgia, began selling RC Cola in 16-ounce bottles instead of the usual 12-ounce bottles, also for a nickel. With the MoonPie as the largest pie for a nickel and the RC Cola as the largest soft drink, together they became a popular 10-cent combination, especially for blue-collar workers.

Robert “Bob” Harrison is also credited with being the first to throw a MoonPie. In 1967, Harrison was talked into joining the Stripers, but had little money to spend on throws. At the time, he worked as a distributor for the Murray Biscuit Company and because he could obtain MoonPies at a low cost, he brought boxes of MoonPies to the float — the crowd loved them and the next year, all the Stripers threw MoonPies.

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The crazy thing about these legends is that they’re probably all true!

By the 1960s, Mobile’s Mardi Gras season was two weeks long and featured 17 separate parades, each with numerous floats, making it highly likely that different people on different floats in different parades began throwing MoonPies (or local versions of them) at around the same time.

Yet, regardless of who threw the first one, how did MoonPies rise to dominate the throws and become a staple and symbol of Mobile Mardi Gras? To understand this, we have to look back at throw history. Early Mardi Gras throws, dating to the 1800s, were French bonbons or trick prizes like small bags of flour that burst when caught. These were eventually banned, and throws did not play much of a role again until after World War II, when they became an increasingly integral part of Mardi Gras parades.

In the 1940s and 1950s, taffy candy and serpentine (rolls of unraveling confetti) were the most common throws, and it was considered a feat to catch a whole roll of serpentine. “Throw me a whole roll, Mister!” became a common parade shout heard on the route.

In the late 1950s, city officials banned serpentine, claiming that people choked on it, but some Mobilians insist the serpentine was a chore for the city to clean up. To replace the serpentine, float riders began throwing new items like rubber balls, beanbags, candy kisses, doubloons (coins bearing mystic society insignia), bags of peanuts, bubblegum, hard candies, Cracker Jack and, of course, MoonPies.

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But MoonPies hit their stride as throws in the early 1970s, when the city of Mobile banned Cracker Jack (the then-favorite Mardi Gras throw) because the sharp corners of the boxes were injuring spectators. Since they were soft, easy to throw and catch, affordable, and had been a Southern favorite for decades, MoonPies became a great substitute for the Cracker Jacks.

Over the next decades, MoonPies became a mobile carnival institution.

These days, each rider tosses about 900 MoonPies in a single parade, estimates Stephen Toomey, owner of Mobile's premier Mardi Gras supply store, Toomey's Mardi Gras. Toomey's alone sells 4.5 million MoonPies each carnival season. And although the streets are strewn with beads at the end of each parade, there are usually no MoonPies to be found .

For months after Mardi Gras, Mobile children find MoonPies in their lunchboxes and trade each other for favorite flavors.

Local newspapers and magazines print MoonPie recipes. And on New Year's Eve 2008, the city of Mobile sponsored the first "MoonPie Rise," during which a giant, luminous 900-pound banana MoonPie was raised over the city of Mobile at the stroke of midnight. The following year, 25,000 people attended the MoonPie Rise, which is also branded by the city as “MoonPie Over Mobile.”

From humble beginnings, Tennessee’s MoonPie has become a beloved player in the Gulf Coast's rich Mardi Gras tradition.

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RECIPES

Seafood Gumbo INGREDIENTS

¾ cup vegetable oil peanut oil is great here ¾ cup all-purpose flour 1 large onion chopped 1 large bell pepper chopped 2 jalapeno peppers chopped (optional) 2 celery stalks chopped 4 cloves garlic chopped 2 cups okra chopped 12 ounces amber beer (optional - you can use extra stock instead) 5 cups seafood stock use 4-6, depending on how thin you’d like your finished gumbo 1 tablespoon Cajun seasoning blendor more, as desired 1 tablespoon cayenne powderoptional, for more heat 2 teaspoons salt ½ teaspoon dried thyme 2 bay leaves 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce 1 teaspoon hot sauce or more to your preference, use your favorite! ½ cup freshly chopped parsley FOR THE SEAFOOD 1 pound medium shrimp peeled and deveined 1 pound white fish use red snapper, grouper, catfish, whatever is available to you 1 pound lump white crab meat ½ pound smoked oysters Or use freshly shucked if you can get them FOR SERVING Cooked white rice fresh chopped parsley, spicy chili flakes, spicy chili oil, extra hot sauce

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RECIPES

Seafood Gumbo DIRECTIONS

Make the roux using butter, oil or bacon fat and flour by whisking together over medium high heat until golden brown.

Add the onions, peppers and celery to the roux and stir to combine. Cook until softened.

Add the garlic, cayenne, paprika, garlic powder, creole seasoning and file powder.

Stir to combine.

Stir in the chicken broth and bring the mixture to a boil.

Add the seafood, bay leaf, salt and pepper.

Simmer for 4-5 minutes or until the seafood is cooked through.

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Gumbo YA-YA

By Amber Derr

As we move into the cooler months of winter here along the Gulf Coast, and soups and stews take a primary place on the table, one stands out as a staple through the years. Gumbo. A hot, steamy bowl of gumbo warms the body and soul when we gather around to enjoy time together with family and friends.

Gumbo has a long and varied history of different styles and flavors.

First introduced to the United States by the people of West Africa, “gombo” was the word they used for what we here know as okra. And what would a good gumbo be without the subtle, salty flavors found in okra. Once gumbo arrived here, the French, Spanish, and Native American peoples began to add their twists to the cuisine. What was created was truly a gumbo, various flavors and cultural tastes in a bowl.

Gumbo usually starts with a roux, the base that the whole gumbo is built around. In French cuisine, the roux is a mixture of flour and fat that simmers for a while to absorb all the surrounding flavors. When the roux is thick enough, it is easy to see why it would be used to flavor the rest of the dish and hold it altogether.

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The two main types of gumbo are seafood gumbo, and chicken and sausage gumbo. These two types became the most popular because they used the resources that were abundant and close at hand.

Along the coast, plentiful amounts of seafood choices are available.

Crab, shrimp, and crawfish are just a few of the options that might be added to a pot of seafood gumbo. This gumbo is typically the most popular during the season of Lent; but since it’s not shrimp or crab season during that time of year, advance preparations are a must.

Chicken and sausage gumbo takes the form of a stew with meats that were inexpensive to attain, and they were used more as an addition to the gumbo instead of the main ingredients. Variations of these two main types are possible, for sure, as gumbo can be flavored by any of the meats provided by wild game or locally sourced vegetables.

Truly, the gumbo is limited only by imagination.

The making of gumbo can be an all-afternoon sort of affair (or even allday if you mess up the roux.), but it’s always fun to hang out in the kitchen with family while everyone is cooking. The whole family can be involved with the making of gumbo; even youngsters can chop the vegetable mix called mirepoix. It’s a lengthy process that requires a lot of attention while the roux is simmering to perfection; and when the roux and the mirepoix are ready, then the other necessary ingredients will find their way into the gumbo pot, hot sauce included.

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But, beware — the chosen hot sauce can be a source of contention for even the closest of families! Make sure everyone agrees on the perfect hot seasoning to use.

Sharing a bowl of gumbo over rice brings families together. Gumbo cookoffs and contests also bring communities of people together for a complete day of fun and games. Every pot of gumbo is as unique as the person or family who makes it. When families enjoy a day together, it is the gathering that brings about the memories that will be shared for years to come. Some families even have recipes that remain generation after generation just from watching moms and grandmas.

So whether you’re from the Caribbean, Africa, France, Spain, or the United States, let your gumbo show your family’s connection to the cuisine you all love.

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RECIPES

Red Beans and Rice INGREDIENTS

1 pound dry kidney beans ¼ cup olive oil 1 large onion, chopped 1 green bell pepper, chopped 2 stalks celery, chopped 2 tablespoons minced garlic 6 cups water 2 bay leaves 1 tablespoon dried parsley 1 teaspoon dried thyme 1 teaspoon Cajun seasoning ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper ¼ teaspoon dried sage 1 pound andouille sausage, sliced 4 cups water 2 cups long grain white rice

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RECIPES

Red Beans and Rice DIRECTIONS

Gather all ingredients.

Rinse beans, and then soak in a large pot of water overnight.

Heat oil in a skillet over medium heat. Cook onion, bell pepper, celery, and garlic in olive oil for 3 to 4 minutes.

Rinse beans, and transfer to a large pot with 6 cups water. Stir cooked vegetables into beans. Season with bay leaves, parsley, thyme, Cajun seasoning, cayenne pepper, and sage. Bring to a boil, and then reduce heat to medium-low. Simmer for 2 1/2 hours.

Stir sausage into beans, and continue to simmer for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare the rice. Bring water and rice to a boil in a saucepan.

Reduce heat, cover, and simmer for 20 minutes.

Serve beans over steamed white rice.

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Book Nook with Pamela Brown

What’s a B*tchin Kitchen, and do I want one? Heck yeah.

In country music superstar Miranda Lambert’s book, Y’ALL EAT YET: Welcome to the Pretty B*tchin’ Kitchen, it’s described as a place where friends (Ya-Yas) and family reminisce, celebrate, and bond over good ole Southern dishes. “People can be together, chop or mix whatever their skill level, maybe drink some iced tea, and catch up,” says Holly Gleason, Miranda’s friend and book collaborator. “Having a reason to slow down and come together is the greatest gift we can give ourselves. There’s nothing healthier than the food we make ourselves.”

The book features easy-to-prepare, hearty recipes Miranda was raised on from her mom, grandma, and cherished friends that reflect her Texas roots.

It includes her mom Bev’s The Loaf, a legendary meatloaf made with sausage/ground beef, caramelized topping, and gravy that’s guaranteed to ‘get you the ring!’ Other crowd pleasers include Nonny’s Banana Pudding, Paw Paw’s Barbecue, Whiskey Cupcake, and Hummingbird Cake.

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Holly recalls her Grandma Klein’s soups and pies, her Nana Gleason’s casseroles and Jello salads, and her mother’s towering German chocolate cakes and Heath Bar meringue desserts.

A bonus, grandma taught her about spices and slow cooking.

“My passion for cooking, like Miranda’s, comes from my grandmothers and mother,” says Holly. “She made up recipes ahead of food trends that made our dinner table the talk of the pick-up line.

They all taught me there’s love in the ladle – if you’re cooking for people you care for.”

For Miranda and Holly, joy comes from being with friends and eating delicious food. “Whether it’s a cookout, a plated dinner, potluck, buffet or tailgate – it’s the fun or the talk you need to have. Her family, like mine, knows cooking should be fun, not an ordeal,” says Holly, describing Southern cooking as cozy and slow cooked, so the flavors come together.

“It makes the most of whatever’s in the recipe – whether it’s fresh or canned, a cheap cut of meat – and delivers something people will talk about for days or years after.”

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Holly was hard-pressed to pick one favorite from the book. “Spiced Hot Crackers with jalapeño pimento cheese is a pretty great thing to show up with anywhere. People can’t get enough of them, and it’s always nice coming home with a clean plate,” she says, adding, “For sheer joy, the Bunny Cake makes people happy. You see the faces of grown-ups, as well as kids, light up when they see the cake. How often can any one of us do that by just showing up?”

In addition to family recipes, Miranda introduces readers to the multigenerational women who inspired her and stories of her life off-stage, on her Nashville farm, and on the road. “The book is about how food – and friendship – binds life through the tough stuff, the thrilling moments, and can create community,” says Holly. “This is deep family stuff, and those friends are extended family in the purest sense. Use food to build strong friendships and healthy bodies.”

Holly praises Miranda’s mom, whose B*tchin’ kitchen placed the focus on heart and the importance of home cooking with a nod to nurturing Southern hospitality. “I hand it to Beverly Lambert, when they were struggling financially, she made sure her children were eating fresh vegetables and making homemade treats instead of store-bought. There’s a vignette in the book where Miranda’s teacher asks how many kids sat down to dinner as a family every night – Miranda being the only one who raised her hand speaks volumes about how and why this book matters.”

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RECIPES

Jambayala INGREDIENTS 3 tablespoons cooking oil, divided 2 tablespoons Slap Ya Mama/Cajun seasoning, (adjust to suit your tastes/heat preference) 10 ounces (300 g) andouille sausage, sliced into rounds 1 pound (500 g) boneless skinless chicken breasts or thighs, cut into 1 inch pieces 1 onion diced 1 small green bell pepper (capsicum), seeded and diced 1 small red bell pepper (capsicum), seeded and diced 2 stalks/ribs celery, chopped 4 cloves garlic, minced 14 ounces (400 g) can crushed tomatoes 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper 1 teaspoon each dried thyme and dried oregano 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes (or 1/4 teaspoon Cayenne powder) 1/2 teaspoon hot pepper sauce 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce 1 cup thinly sliced okra (or 1 teaspoon file powder) 1 1/2 cups uncooked white rice (short grain or long grain) 3 cups low sodium chicken broth 1 pound (500 g) raw shrimp/prawns tails on or off, peeled and deveined Sliced green onions and chopped parsley, to garnish Jan 2024 | www.TableScapeMag.com

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RECIPES

Jambayala DIRECTIONS

Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium heat.

Season the sausage and chicken pieces with half of the Cajun seasoning.

Brown sausage in the hot oil; remove with slotted spoon and set aside.

Add remaining oil to the pot and sauté chicken until lightly browned.

Remove with slotted spoon; set aside.

Sauté the onion, bell pepper and celery until onion is soft and transparent.

Add the garlic and cook until fragrant (30 seconds).

Stir in the tomatoes; season with salt, pepper, thyme, oregano, red pepper flakes (or Cayenne powder), hot pepper sauce, Worcestershire sauce, and the remaining Cajun seasoning. Stir in the okra slices (or file powder), chicken and sausage. Cook for 5 minutes, while stirring occasionally.

Add in the rice and chicken broth, bring to a boil, then reduce heat to lowmedium. Cover and let simmer for about 20 to 25 minutes, or until liquid is absorbed and rice is cooked, while stirring occasionally.

Place the shrimp on top of the Jambalaya mixture, stir through gently and cover with lid. Allow to simmer while stirring occasionally, until the shrimp are cooked through and pink (about 5-6 minutes, depending on the size/thickness of the shrimp being used).

Season with a little extra salt and pepper if needed and remove from heat.

Adjust heat with extra hot sauce, Cayenne pepper or Cajun seasoning.

Serve immediately with sliced green onions and parsley.

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0

350 WITH IRA GALLON In this edition of 350 , we had an opportunity to sit down with Ira Gallon, Executive Chef of Local and Company in Foley, Alabama.

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TS: Can you tell us a little about your food journey?

Ira Gallon: So, my food journey began in New York. I was born and raised in Queens, New York - in Jamaica, Queens, and my first restaurant job was in Manhattan in a place called the Dine-O-Mat. It was a spinoff of the automat, where they would put their coins in the little vending machines and get their pie, or whatever. This was a 50’s style full-service diner - I mean, the servers would wear cheerleader outfits, the guys would wear the soda fountain paper hats, and they would do choreographed dances.

That was actually my first job where I got into cooking by accident. I wanted to get a job as a busboy - my sister worked as a hostess, so I went to that place, since I had kind of an in. A guy there was a little sweet on my sister - his name was Ruben, I still remember his name - he asked if I had any experience in a kitchen because they needed cooks back there. I said no, I just needed work, and the kitchen manager came an interviewed me and put me on the line. And in three months, I was one of their best cooks. So, that was my introduction to the restaurant industry. And then the journey continued. It was something that I did have a previous passion for before I actually started working in the restaurant. I enjoyed cooking at the house and I enjoyed, well, eating, but I never really knew what it was to do it professionally. But, then, when I realized that I was good at it, I just decided that I’m going to go full throttle into this thing and try to learn as much as I can, and my focus was to try to learn as much as I can through top chefs. And there was no shortage of top chefs in New York.

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However, at that time, race was kind of an issue. It was hard for a young black kid to get into any restaurant of note in the city. So, my best bet was to get out of New York.

My first move was actually to South Beach, Miami, where I worked under Chef Norman Van Aken. He had a place called a Mano at the Betsy Ross Hotel. I worked with him in his prep room, and that’s where I really got a lot of exposure to food. I saw things that I had never seen before. I was good with production, but I was doing all of the butchering.

I was frenching lamb chops, veal chops, I was breaking down entire fish - all of which I’d never done before. I was breaking down 80 pound black groupers, king salmon, white king salmon - I mean, these were gigantic fish. All kinds of things, even fresh 0 scallops that were attached to the shell. My eyes kind of got opened a lot more to food and the possibilities, and understanding that this is really a profession. When I was growing up at that time, to a lot of people, being a chef was not a prestigious career.

There was not any of this Iron Chef and Battle of the Chefs. But it started opening my eyes as a very viable trade.

I came back up to New York to save some money because I wanted to move to San Francisco because I had heard about this guy - Bradley Ogden. He was doing some really cool things. I moved to San Francisco in the hopes that I would get a job at the Lark Creek Inn working for him, and lo and behold, I ended up getting the job. That was my first time working with a band saw, a buffalo chopper, and a few other pieces of equipment. I was breaking down whole lambs, which was different. Usually everything I broke down came in prime cut already, but these whole lambs were coming in and that really opened my eyes to utilizing every piece of the animal. We’d save the shanks and do a lamb shank dish, we’d do the same thing with the chops and make a chili.

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I was in charge of making the stocks too - I’d roast the lamb bones, and we’d make a lamb stock. There was this thing called a hock stock that we made with smoked ham hocks. I was even smoking trout. We’d get fresh trout in, I’d clean the trout, peel back all the bones, cure it, rinse it, pull all the bones out, and smoke it. These processes opened my eyes to how we can process food and how food can be used. Every time I would cook before this, everything was already there in the drawer. This part of the cooking became very formative for me because I was able to see - from the back door to the plate - what is transpiring because there’s a lot that happens in between there. The delivery comes in, and then the cooks make it, but there’s a lot that happens before that. I missed that whole step when I started out. I kind of did the process of becoming a line cook a little bit in reverse, I guess.

So, that’s basically my food journey. And there’s so many other restaurants - I’ve been doing this for 35 years, but I think those places were some of the most eye-opening and formative moments for me as a young cook coming up - to be able to understand how it worked at that level.

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0

TS: It sounds like you’ve had your fingers in a lot of different pies. Do you have a cuisine that you gravitate toward?

Ira Gallon: Yes, and that would be, if there is such a thing, American cuisine.

The exploration of American cuisine. How it is today, or how it’s perceived today.

How it was perceived when I first started in 1988 to now, and the direction that it’s going in the future. I don’t know if American cuisine has even been established or globally recognized as a cuisine, but that’s the great thing about food, you don’t necessarily need anybody’s approval. You can just create a dish. And if somebody doesn’t approve of it, that’s okay. You know, artists don’t paint paintings and ask somebody to approve them.

They just paint paintings. And so it is with cooking. You create your dish, or you may create a style, and you let the people decide what they want to purchase or not. But whether they purchase it or not, it doesn’t make it valid. It just means it’s popular and marketable.

I just wanted to find out - where is this American cuisine? And it’s just that it’s not popular - not verified. So, that’s where my passion is and what draws me to that cuisine.

The thing about American cuisine is that it is every other cuisine also because America is just this melting pot of everybody that came over here. That’s the thing that I love about so-called American cuisine.

TS: If you were speaking to a home cook that wanted to cook like a professional chef, what kind of advice would you give them?

Ira Gallon: I guess the only thing I would say would be to go slow and be patient because if you are trying to cook like somebody that’s been doing it as a career for many years, you’re probably not going to succeed. But your best chance at succeeding is to be patient, be methodical, read the recipe two and three times over to make sure you don’t make a mistake or miss a step, and then just kind of do your best. I think that would be the approach for anybody. It takes time, but you can replicate a dish, just don’t try to rush.

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TS: Any Closing Comments?

Ira Gallon: One of the things that I’d like to say is that I think there’s something wrong with our food industry. I think that there are more restaurants and eateries that are being opened with less and less people prepared to work in them.

I would love your viewers to respond to that. The people that subscribe - what do they think about that comment? Because I see restaurants opening up hand over fist, and you 0 go to patronize these restaurants, and you realize the people behind the counter and the people in the kitchen know absolutely nothing. There’s zero passion - they just need jobs.

And I can’t hate on that because when I first came into the industry, I just needed a job.

But it wasn’t a month or two before I realized I enjoy this and if I’m going to keep a roof over my head and if I’m going to keep food on the table and the water running, I got to get good at this, and I don’t see a whole lot of that. I don’t know if it’s something that begins in the school or the home, but even at the restaurant-level where the people in the restaurant are doing the hiring, I don’t know if they’re letting these people know that there should probably be some passion and knowledge.

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RECIPES

King Cake INGREDIENTS

Tangzhong ¾ cup (6-ounces) milk 4 ½ Tablespoons (1.2-ounces) bread flour King Cake Dough Tangzhong 1 cup (8-ounces) milk 6 Tablespoons (3-ounces) unsalted butter, room temperature 3 Tablespoons granulated sugar 1 ½ teaspoons Kosher Salt 3 cups (15-ounces) bread flour 1 Tablespoon bread machine yeast Filling ¾ cup (5.625-ounces) light brown sugar 3 Tablespoons bread flour 5 teaspoons ground cinnamon Pinch salt 2 Tablespoons unsalted butter, melted Icing 4 ounces cream cheese, room temperature 4 Tablespoons (2-ounces) unsalted butter, room temperature 2-½ cups (10-ounces) confectioners' sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract Purple, green and yellow food glitter Jan 2024 | www.TableScapeMag.com

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RECIPES

King Cake DIRECTIONS Tangzhong Whisk together ¾ cup milk and 4 ½ tablespoons bread flour in a small saucepan. Heat over medium heat, stirring constantly until a paste forms, about 5 minutes. The Tangzhong is ready when a spoon leaves a line in the pan.

King Cake Dough Add the dough ingredients to the bread machine in the order listed. Select the dough cycle and start the machine.

Filling Whisk together the brown sugar, bread flour, cinnamon and salt until combined. Add melted butter; stir to thoroughly combine. Set aside.

Icing Beat cream cheese, butter, confectioners' sugar and vanilla extract together until smooth and creamy. Set aside.

King Cake When the dough cycle is finished, remove the dough and roll out to a 10×28-inch rectangle on a floured surface. Trim the edges as needed. Spread the cinnamon/sugar mixture on the dough to within 1-inch of the edges.

Starting at one of the long edges, roll the dough tightly into a 28-inch log. Pinch the edges to seal the log. Place the rolled log onto the prepared baking sheet, seam side down, and form the dough into a ring. Moisten the ends of the dough with a little water; pinch the two ends together to seal.

Brush king cake with egg wash. Using a sharp knife, slash the top of the king cake to allow for steam to excape. Let rise in a warm place for about 20 minutes.

Preheat oven to 350°F. Bake the king cake in preheated oven until the top is golden brown, about 30 minutes.

Remove the kinf cake from the oven, and cool for about 10 minutes on a wire rack set over a rimmed baking sheet. While the cake is still warm, spoon the icing onto the cake, allowing drips of icing to dribble down the sides of the cake. Immediately, sprinkle purple, green and yellow food glitter on the cake. Yield: One King Cake.

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Café du Monde

Savoring Mardi Gras Magic in a Cup

By Jax Petro

As the vibrant city of New Orleans prepares for the annual spectacle of Mardi Gras, one iconic establishment stands out as a cornerstone of the festivities – Café du Monde. Nestled in the heart of the French Quarter, this historic coffee shop has become synonymous with the lively spirit, rich traditions, and indulgent celebrations that define Mardi Gras.

For many locals and visitors alike, Mardi Gras begins with a pilgrimage to Café du Monde. The early morning ritual involves sipping on steaming cups of chicory-laced coffee while savoring beignets – the delectable square doughnuts blanketed in powdered sugar. The sweet aroma of freshly brewed coffee and the warm, sugary scent of beignets create an irresistible allure, setting the perfect tone for the day's festivities.

Established in 1862, Café du Monde has weathered the passage of time, bearing witness to countless Mardi Gras celebrations. Its distinctive green and white striped awnings and outdoor seating have become an iconic backdrop for the colorful parades and jubilant crowds that flood the streets during Mardi Gras. The café's historic charm serves as a testament to the enduring allure of both New Orleans and the carnival season.

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Cafe du Monde's coffee holds a special place in the hearts of Mardi Gras enthusiasts. The use of chicory in their coffee is a tradition dating back to the Civil War, when coffee supplies were scarce, and chicory was used as a cost-effective alternative. Today, this distinctive blend has become a symbol of New Orleans coffee culture, imparting a bold and slightly spicy flavor that perfectly complements the revelry of Mardi Gras.

During Mardi Gras, Café du Monde transforms into a bustling hub of activity. Locals and tourists alike converge on the open-air terrace to enjoy their coffee and beignets, creating a melting pot of cultures and backgrounds. The lively chatter, the clinking of coffee cups, and the occasional jazz band performing nearby contribute to the festive ambiance that defines Mardi Gras at Café du Monde.

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As beads and trinkets rain down from parade floats, Café du Monde becomes a prime viewing spot to enjoy the spectacle. Patrons revel in the carnival atmosphere while savoring the delightful contrast of the warm, doughy beignets against the cool breeze of the Mississippi River.

It’s a sensory experience that encapsulates the essence of Mardi Gras – indulgent, vibrant, and joyous.

Recently, Café du Monde has expanded its Mardi Gras offerings, introducing themed treats and drinks to complement the festivities. From king cakeflavored beignets to specialty coffee concoctions, the menu reflects the café's commitment to infusing the spirit of Mardi Gras into every aspect of the experience.

As Mardi Gras draws to a close with the culmination of Fat Tuesday, Café du Monde remains a gathering place for those seeking a sweet farewell to the carnival season.

The flickering gas lamps, the laughter echoing through the square, and the comforting warmth of chicory coffee create a lasting memory, ensuring that Café du Monde is not just a coffee shop but a cherished part of the Mardi Gras tradition.

In the heart of the French Quarter, where history, culture, and celebration converge, Café du Monde stands as a timeless symbol of Mardi Gras magic – a place where the spirit of New Orleans is served in every cup.

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ADVERTISER INDEX SouthPaw Solutions Page 4 www.SouthPawSelling.com Factory Direct Sunrooms Page 5 www.FDSunrooms.com The Brick Oven

Page 6

www.BrickOvenFoley.com

Prodisee Pantry Page 12

www.ProdiseePantry.org

Hembree Page 12 www.hembreeac.com Sunset Shores Management, LLC Page 12 251.979.3947 Downtown Cigars Page 16 TableScape Magazine P. 25, 34, 40 www.TableScapeMag.com Fish Camp

Page 26 www.MensCoachingWeekend.com

Cuestion Spirits Page 43 www.CuestionSpirits.com Bill-E’s Bacon

Page 64 www.BillesBacon.com

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